RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ab
December 25, 2000 - January 21, 2002
>
> If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
> The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
> dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing
> bolt hole.
>
> I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
> As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
> the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
> of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
> template?
>
>
> The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
> fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
> The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
> is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
>
>
> Thanks
> Dean
> RV-8A QB Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Dean,
Yes, you will need to ream these parts to allow the bolts to go thru the
bellcrank holes and the brass bushing.
I have temporarily mounted the aileron to my left wing and then went to
mount the flap, only to find that the flap was about .25 inches shorter than
the aileron.
Called up Van's and they are sending me a wider piano hinge.
Interestingly enough, everything is the size identified in the drawings, and
still it is off.
The use of the 1x2's could certainly work.
Larry
RV8-QB 81251 Left Wing
From: Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 01:46:03 -0600
I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
and the flap.
The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
The brackets are predrilled.
The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
the wing in the case of the QB kit
is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit the
flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt hole.
I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
template?
The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
Thanks
Dean
RV-8A QB Wings
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Larry,
Same here about the flap hinge. Everything measured great, and the flap was
short. I ordered a wider hinge and added the wide half to the hinge already
attached to the flap. Worked out perfect. I have heard this from almost
everyone...maybe Van's needs to add the wider hinge...wouldn't hurt.
Good luck
Dan
>
>Dean,
>
>Yes, you will need to ream these parts to allow the bolts to go thru the
>bellcrank holes and the brass bushing.
>
>I have temporarily mounted the aileron to my left wing and then went to
>mount the flap, only to find that the flap was about .25 inches shorter than
>the aileron.
>
>Called up Van's and they are sending me a wider piano hinge.
>
>Interestingly enough, everything is the size identified in the drawings, and
>still it is off.
>
>The use of the 1x2's could certainly work.
>
>Larry
>RV8-QB 81251 Left Wing
>
>
>From: Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net>
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
>Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 01:46:03 -0600
>
>
>I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
>and the flap.
>The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
>The brackets are predrilled.
>The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
>the wing in the case of the QB kit
>is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
>the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit the
>flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
>
>If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
>The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
>dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt hole.
>
>I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
>As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
>the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
>of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
>template?
>
>
>The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
>fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
>The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
>is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
>
>
>Thanks
>Dean
> RV-8A QB Wings
>
>
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Dan,
I agree, but I did not get that impressoin from my convresation with them.
Larry
RV-8QB 81251
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 11:40:13 -0500
Larry,
Same here about the flap hinge. Everything measured great, and the flap was
short. I ordered a wider hinge and added the wide half to the hinge already
attached to the flap. Worked out perfect. I have heard this from almost
everyone...maybe Van's needs to add the wider hinge...wouldn't hurt.
Good luck
Dan
>
>Dean,
>
>Yes, you will need to ream these parts to allow the bolts to go thru the
>bellcrank holes and the brass bushing.
>
>I have temporarily mounted the aileron to my left wing and then went to
>mount the flap, only to find that the flap was about .25 inches shorter
than
>the aileron.
>
>Called up Van's and they are sending me a wider piano hinge.
>
>Interestingly enough, everything is the size identified in the drawings,
and
>still it is off.
>
>The use of the 1x2's could certainly work.
>
>Larry
>RV8-QB 81251 Left Wing
>
>
>From: Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net>
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
>Date: Mon, 25 Dec 2000 01:46:03 -0600
>
>
>I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
>and the flap.
>The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
>The brackets are predrilled.
>The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
>the wing in the case of the QB kit
>is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
>the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit
the
>flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
>
>If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
>The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
>dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt
hole.
>
>I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
>As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
>the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
>of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
>template?
>
>
>The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
>fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
>The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
>is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
>
>
>Thanks
>Dean
> RV-8A QB Wings
>
>
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Dean,
Yes, I found the pre-drilled holes were dead on in my SB-8. So just use them
and done bother with anything else. The best way to have the bellcrank in the
right position is to make up a temporary L bracket with a hole in it 2.5 inches
from the corner. Just cleco that to the main spar (little hole wont hurt) and
the bellcrank bolt goes into the hole you made. It holds the pushrod in
place.
The brackets are powder coated, so you have to ream (or drill) the hole out
again to fit the bolt. And yes, the bushing does need to be reamed or drilled
1/4 inch. Remeber that the bold does not rotate in the brass bushing. Instead
the brass bushing is captured firmly by the "ears" and the bolt being torqued
up, and rotates in the weldment.
Gordon Robertson
SB-8, second wing.
Dean wrote:
>
> I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
> and the flap.
> The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
> The brackets are predrilled.
> The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
> the wing in the case of the QB kit
> is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
> the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit the
> flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
>
> If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
> The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
> dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt hole.
>
> I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
> As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
> the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
> of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
> template?
>
> The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
> fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
> The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
> is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
>
> Thanks
> Dean
> RV-8A QB Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Do you lubricate this in any way? I also noticed that theere will be bare
steel where the brass bushing is rotating. What will prevent this from
rusting?
I bought a 1/4" reamer and had no problems fitting the bushing and bolt. Not
sure if I need any lubricants/primer in any of these areas though.
Are
RV-8 Wings
The brackets are powder coated, so you have to ream (or drill) the hole out
again to fit the bolt. And yes, the bushing does need to be reamed or
drilled
1/4 inch. Remeber that the bold does not rotate in the brass bushing.
Instead
the brass bushing is captured firmly by the "ears" and the bolt being
torqued
up, and rotates in the weldment.
Gordon Robertson
SB-8, second wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
>
> Do you lubricate this in any way? I also noticed that theere will be bare
> steel where the brass bushing is rotating. What will prevent this from
> rusting?
I coated the inside of it with grease. That should reduce the friction and
the rust, but I also wondered about it.
Terry
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
> I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
> and the flap.
> The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
> The brackets are predrilled.
> The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
> the wing in the case of the QB kit
> is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
> the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit
the
> flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
>
> If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
> The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
> dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt
hole.
>
> I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
> As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
> the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
> of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
> template?
>
>
> The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
> fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
> The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
> is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
Dean,
Yes, use the aileron for the reference, but the method I prefer, and that I
think is more accurate, is using the tooling holes in the end wing rib to
line up with the tooling holes in the end aileron rib. Tom Green gave me
this tip and says it's the most accurate method. I posted a Builder's Tip on
my web site about this as follows...
"When you are mounting your wings you will need to align four things on each
wing: the aileron, the wing tip, the flap, and the flap fairing. You will
immediately wonder what to use as a reference, and it doesn't tell you in
the manual. Here's the trick: align the aileron with the outboard wing ribs
by centering the tooling holes in both wing ribs and the aileron rib. You
will need a 5' straightedge to do this. Then duct tape the aileron in place
and line up the flap to match. Working your way inboard you can then install
the flap fairing correctly so the flap fits into it perfectly when fully
retracted. Keeping the aileron in place with the duct tape then fit the
trailing edge of the wing tip, which has quite a bit of adjustment possible
with it, to the trailing edge of the aileron. Voila, you now have the entire
trailing edge aligned exactly where it's supposed to be."
Worked for me,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting the fuselage tomorrow.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
Are
I just used a spot of grease. Regular auto grease, although I suppose that
some purists may say that Lithium grease or some such is best. But it will not
rust with the constant movement, and brass is self lubricating to an extent, so
don't prime. An Oilite bushing, instead of brass, would have been better in my
opinion, since it is impregnated with oil. But brass is fine. Not much load
there.
Are Barstad wrote:
>
> Do you lubricate this in any way? I also noticed that theere will be bare
> steel where the brass bushing is rotating. What will prevent this from
> rusting?
>
> I bought a 1/4" reamer and had no problems fitting the bushing and bolt. Not
> sure if I need any lubricants/primer in any of these areas though.
>
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
> The brackets are powder coated, so you have to ream (or drill) the hole out
> again to fit the bolt. And yes, the bushing does need to be reamed or
> drilled
> 1/4 inch. Remeber that the bold does not rotate in the brass bushing.
> Instead
> the brass bushing is captured firmly by the "ears" and the bolt being
> torqued
> up, and rotates in the weldment.
>
> Gordon Robertson
> SB-8, second wing.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Brace ,Bottom Skins and Lap joints |
More questions
Where the bottom skins over lap to make the Lap Joint and the flap brace
attaches to those skins.
Do I need to make a butt joint at the point where the skins overlap and the
flap brace joins them, like the joint made in the top skins? Also does
everyone pre-bend the skin edges on lap and butt joints to prevent skin
curling while riveting. Does it make a difference. Seems to me it might
look worse if the pre-bend was bent to much.
Thanks
Dean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Brace ,Bottom Skins and Lap joints |
Dean,
No, the top is critical because of the flap skin which touches the flap
itself, so must be smooth. But the bottom has no such restriction. My
principle is KISS (Keep it simple, stupid!)
I did pre-bend the skins before riveting. It does stop curling, but I have no
experience with the curled variety so I dont know if it helps. There is a
slight line left where the roller type bender creased the skin, but the
riveting pulls it down flush and paint will cover it. TIP: Bend the skin
before dimpling the holes!
Gordon
Dean wrote:
>
> More questions
>
> Where the bottom skins over lap to make the Lap Joint and the flap brace
> attaches to those skins.
> Do I need to make a butt joint at the point where the skins overlap and the
> flap brace joins them, like the joint made in the top skins? Also does
> everyone pre-bend the skin edges on lap and butt joints to prevent skin
> curling while riveting. Does it make a difference. Seems to me it might
> look worse if the pre-bend was bent to much.
>
> Thanks
> Dean
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flybolt" <flybolt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/28/00 |
Is there any RV8's in the Los Angeles area. I have watched two so far one 6
and another 6A. Would love to see an 8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sigma Tek Attitude Indicator Connections |
I've got a Sigma Tek Model 5000B attitude indicator in my panel. There are
1/4" NPT connections for vacuuma and for filtered air and a 1/8" NPT
connection for the vacuum gage.
There's also another 1/4" NPT connection that is unidentified. Anybody
have an idea what that could be for?
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Endless firewall forward
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | flap motor interfers? |
All,
1. Flap motor interfers with F-876ppL side panel about a half inch. Any one
had this problem? Thoughts?
2. Ground adjustable rudder peddles, what keeps them from just falling
backwards when not in use?
3. Anyone have any general routing thoughts for the manual elevator trim
cable?
Thanks to all, and Happy New Year!!!
Dan
-8 Fuselage
TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap motor interfers? |
> 1. Flap motor interfers with F-876ppL side panel about a half inch. Any
one
> had this problem? Thoughts?
You need to make the hole larger. Watch the shaft through it's travel and
make the sure the hole accomodates it.
> 2. Ground adjustable rudder peddles, what keeps them from just falling
> backwards when not in use?
The master cylinders.
> 3. Anyone have any general routing thoughts for the manual elevator trim
> cable?
The plans call for it to behind the throttle quadrant. Mine wouldn't fit so
I altered the path to go below the throttle quadrant and then arc up under
the canopy rail.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap motor interfers? |
Dan,
1. If you are talking about the horizontal side panel then I had the same
problem and elongated the hole to make it fit. Or if you haven't installed
the upper mount yet for the actuator then you could slide that up or down as
necessary to make it clear. The actuator has plenty of travel so some
moving around is ok.
2. The rudder cables, or if you mean back towards the pilot then it is the
pilot's feet.
3. Can't help you as I have electronic trim tabs
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: flap motor interfers?
>Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 16:33:30 -0500
>
>
>All,
>
>1. Flap motor interfers with F-876ppL side panel about a half inch. Any one
>had this problem? Thoughts?
>
>2. Ground adjustable rudder peddles, what keeps them from just falling
>backwards when not in use?
>
>3. Anyone have any general routing thoughts for the manual elevator trim
>cable?
>
>Thanks to all, and Happy New Year!!!
>
>Dan
>-8 Fuselage
>TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut58(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flap motor interfers? |
Dan:
1. Flap motor interfers with F-876ppL side panel about a half inch. Any one
had this problem? Thoughts?
====Don't see how it can, if installed per drawing. Suggest rechecking
bearing locations and orientation of motor per drawings.
2. Ground adjustable rudder peddles, what keeps them from just falling
backwards when not in use?
====Rudder cables in one direction and brake cylinders in the other direction.
3. Anyone have any general routing thoughts for the manual elevator trim
cable?
==== I used the holes shown on the drawings (don't have drawings inside with
me now, but it's the sheet that shows full size drawings of each bulkhead).
Trim cable locations are called out and they work well. One caution: if
you're planning to put in a rear seat throttle quadrant, that location is
very close to the specified trim cable location...be accurate.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
For those interested, I have posted several updates to my web site...
www.rv-8.com. Updates include...
-A trick solution for your emergency com antenna on the 'Products & ideas'
page
http://www.rv-8.com/pgIdeasProducts.htm
-Pics of my compliance with the fuel tank pickup service notice.
http://www.rv-8.com/pgWings.htm
-My cowling is now 99% done.
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPlenumCowl.htm
-An update on the painting, see the 'Painting page
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPainting.htm
Happy New Year!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Wing jigging and outboard rib |
I'm about to jig my wings. In the manual it says to rivet all ribs except 2
outboard root ribs. This is fine since it will be the only way to get at
rivets.
But... The outboard rib that fastens to the jig. I riveted it to the rear
spar only since the drawings tells me that the same rivets are used for the
main rib as the leading edge rib. Hence, I understand that you can only
cleco on the forward flange of the outboard main rib and then attach it to
the jig.
Is this right? Even the Orndorf videos doesn't say to omit these rivets
until you rivet on the leading edge.
Thanks,
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing jigging and outboard rib |
Are,
I clecoed the forward edge flange of the outboard rib to the main
spar and mounted the skeleton in the jig. It remained this way until
it was time to rivet the leading edge on. Works fine, no problem.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Fuselage
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 12:20 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Wing jigging and outboard rib
>
> I'm about to jig my wings. In the manual it says to rivet all ribs
except 2
> outboard root ribs. This is fine since it will be the only way to
get at
> rivets.
>
> But... The outboard rib that fastens to the jig. I riveted it to
the rear
> spar only since the drawings tells me that the same rivets are used
for the
> main rib as the leading edge rib. Hence, I understand that you can
only
> cleco on the forward flange of the outboard main rib and then
attach it to
> the jig.
>
> Is this right? Even the Orndorf videos doesn't say to omit these
rivets
> until you rivet on the leading edge.
>
> Thanks,
> Are
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/06/01 |
Ed:
You wrote: >>I have planned our RV-8 panel for the Garmin 430 GPS with Glide
>slope,Garmin327 TRXPDNR, and the Garmin 340 AUDIO PNL.
> Question... Can I install this equipment myself or is it best to have
>an
>avionics shop do it? I have no experience with avionics and am a first
>time
>builder.
You can install these radios yourself, but it is no small job, and the price
of a mistake can be high.
Vans will sell you radios which they pre-wire and test in their lab for
about the same price (maybe a little less) than uninstalled prices from
radio shops. Your installation then consists of mechanical mounting and
connecting ground, +12V, encoder cable connection and antennas. I know that
Vans does this for King radios...don't know if they offer Garmin or not.
If you decide to have an avionics shop do it, I'd suggest having it done
before rivetting the forward turtle deck and windscreen in place.
Also, whether your or somebody else installs the radios, cut a LARGE hole
(all the way across) in the baggage compartment bulkhead to provide access
to radios and instruments. You can close the hole with a removeable panel.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Firewall forward
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/06/01 |
Ed:
You wrote: >>I have planned our RV-8 panel for the Garmin 430 GPS with Glide
>slope,Garmin327 TRXPDNR, and the Garmin 340 AUDIO PNL.
> Question... Can I install this equipment myself or is it best to have
>an
>avionics shop do it? I have no experience with avionics and am a first
>time
>builder.
You can install these radios yourself, but it is no small job, and the price
of a mistake can be high.
Vans will sell you radios which they pre-wire and test in their lab for
about the same price (maybe a little less) than uninstalled prices from
radio shops. Your installation then consists of mechanical mounting and
connecting ground, +12V, encoder cable connection and antennas. I know that
Vans does this for King radios...don't know if they offer Garmin or not.
If you decide to have an avionics shop do it, I'd suggest having it done
before rivetting the forward turtle deck and windscreen in place.
Also, whether your or somebody else installs the radios, cut a LARGE hole
(all the way across) in the baggage compartment bulkhead to provide access
to radios and instruments. You can close the hole with a removeable panel.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Firewall forward
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I'm trying to finish up my fuel vent system and now have it plumbed to where
it goes through the gear tower floor in my RV-8. I can't find anything in
the plans or manual regarding what sort of length or shape extends below the
gear access cover. I'm assuming that you fab an aluminum tube and penetrate
the gear access cover with a rubber grommet. Do you bend it forward or leave
it straight with a slash cut? How far should it protrude? Is this specified
somewhere in the manual or plans and I'm blind?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, final plumbing & wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent tube |
Randy:
I used an AN fitting in the floor of the gear towers. Don't have the drawings
handy, but I think it was an AN815 union. You have to search hard
for it, but it is shown on one of the drawings of the gear box...can't remember
which one. Keep plugging...you're getting to the fun part now.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Firewall forward forever
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel vent tube
Listers,
I'm trying to finish up my fuel vent system and now have it plumbed to where
it goes through the gear tower floor in my RV-8. I can't find anything in
the plans or manual regarding what sort of length or shape extends below
the
gear access cover. I'm assuming that you fab an aluminum tube and penetrate
the gear access cover with a rubber grommet. Do you bend it forward or leave
it straight with a slash cut? How far should it protrude? Is this specified
somewhere in the manual or plans and I'm blind?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, final plumbing & wiring
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Upgrade... |
B
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Web Server this afternoon (1/21/01)
and will be taking it offline for a number of hours. I hope to have it
back online by this evening sometime, depending on how well the upgrade
goes.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01 |
Hi, new to the thread. Becoming more and more interested in the RV8 or RV8A.
Any advice or suggestions out there from anyone who is building or has built
one? Especially why you chose the RV over others such as the Lancair etc.
Thanks, Tim near Las Vegas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01 |
Hi, thanks for the note. Everyone writing seems to be wildly enthusiastic
about the Vans product. Are you really in Aurora? Isn't that where the kits
are built? Was going up to tour the factory this weekend but they're not open
on weekends so I'll probably go up late next week. Best of luck on your
project! Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01 |
Thanks, I'll call first. Interested only in the RV8 or RV8A. Since you seem
to be right in the thick of things so to speak any thoughts on the RV8 Vs
RV8A. Also I have seen RV's for sale that aren't even completed...."pick your
paint and radios"....what's with that. Is it legal to build and sell one
without ever flying it or intending to fly it? Thanks, Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hackleman" <bkh(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01 |
I just visited the factory last week, and I was very impressed. I'm also
interested in the RV-8A, and took a demo flight. They're not kidding when
they talk about that RV grin. I actually visited the old place a couple of
years ago, but wasn't quite ready to start building yet. I was lucky I
never did a demo flight back then, or I'd would have tried to start before I
was ready.. Their manufacturing is even more advanced now with the
pre-drilled holes. Even some of the spar components are pre-drilled, not
just the skins. I'm getting ready to place an order for the tail kit.
By the way, it's my understanding that you can build one and sell it, as
long as you're not doing it as a business. In other words, the purpose
still has to be for the recreation of building.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Nvatp(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01
Thanks, I'll call first. Interested only in the RV8 or RV8A. Since you seem
to be right in the thick of things so to speak any thoughts on the RV8 Vs
RV8A. Also I have seen RV's for sale that aren't even completed...."pick
your
paint and radios"....what's with that. Is it legal to build and sell one
without ever flying it or intending to fly it? Thanks, Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01 |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> I just visited the factory last week, and I was very impressed. I'm also
> interested in the RV-8A, and took a demo flight. They're not kidding when
> they talk about that RV grin. I actually visited the old place a couple of
> years ago, but wasn't quite ready to start building yet. I was lucky I
> never did a demo flight back then, or I'd would have tried to start before I
> was ready.. Their manufacturing is even more advanced now with the
> pre-drilled holes. Even some of the spar components are pre-drilled, not
> just the skins. I'm getting ready to place an order for the tail kit.
>
> By the way, it's my understanding that you can build one and sell it, as
> long as you're not doing it as a business. In other words, the purpose
> still has to be for the recreation of building.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Nvatp(at)cs.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:23 PM
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/01
>
>
>
> Thanks, I'll call first. Interested only in the RV8 or RV8A. Since you seem
> to be right in the thick of things so to speak any thoughts on the RV8 Vs
> RV8A. Also I have seen RV's for sale that aren't even completed...."pick
> your
> paint and radios"....what's with that. Is it legal to build and sell one
> without ever flying it or intending to fly it? Thanks, Tim
>
>
> Great, good luck with the project. Where are you? Thanks for the info on the
already built airplanes. Thanks, Tim
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots
of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1
degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading
edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of
the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere.
So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I
have to fix it. My questions are these:
1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a
car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us
taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount?
2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2
degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts?
thanks to all,
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
It is time to start looking for engines. I have read a lot about Bart
Lalonde at Aerosport Power in Canada.=A0 Does anyone have his phone number?=20
Does he sell engines outright or do you have to have a core to trade in?
What kind of price ranges are we talking about?
I am looking at the IO-360 A1B6 200 HP.
Is there any problems with taxes or tarrifs when ordering from Canada?
Howard Cochran
Mooresville, NC
1/2 of 80188
Painting interior on Friday Feb. 9th.
Canopy next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Toe in anyone? |
Dan:
I think that toe-in is a bad thing for a tail dragger. Makes it easier to
turn.
After carefully aligning my gear legs prior to drilling, I found almost 3%
discrepancy when checking the axle alignment. I corrected with Van's shims.
Haven't taxied the plane yet, so can't report on results, but I think I'm
going to be all right.
George Kilishek.
Engine installation almost finished.
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Toe in anyone?
>Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 20:04:12 -0500
>
>
>Dear -8 builders, after careful alignment of the main gear legs, and lots
>of work later, I have measured the axles and find them toe in by 2.1
>degrees each. This is gut wrenching. Rechecking the gear legs, the leading
>edges are dead nuts aligned and equal distant from a hole in the bottom of
>the tail cone. I guess there must be some twist there somewhere.
>
>So, I screwed up and didn't check the axles, just the gear alignment. Now I
>have to fix it. My questions are these:
>
>1. Has anyone finished one and flown it, with toe in? I know this is not a
>car, but cars have toe in for stability, does this apply to us
>taildraggers? If so, how much is the right amount?
>
>2. Can this much be corrected with 1 degree shims like on my Cessna? Is 2
>degrees too much? Will it bend axle bolts?
>
>thanks to all,
>
>Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Flight Test Links - new URL |
My Flight Test Links were part of my RV Links page, but the page was
getting too unwieldy. So, today I split the flight test info off on
its own page:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/ftlinks.html
My RV Links page is still at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (canopy skirt)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elbie(at)aol.com (by way of Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
2/9/2001
Fellow Pilots and Builders:
EM aviation is pleased to announce that the RiteAngle III Angle of
Attack system is in production. I know this has been a long, long wait for
some of you, however I will not sell a system that is not up to my standards.
The long delay was partially caused by the total new design required
after the RiteAngle 2000 system was terminated. The remainder of the delay
was insuring the system met all our requirements such as both hot and cold
environment testing. The first production group of systems off the line
are being again extensively tested for approximately 2 weeks before we
deliver any systems to insure there are no "bugs" appearing.
When all production testing is accomplished I will ship according to who
has sent in the order form via fax or US mail. (Again, DO NOT send your
credit card number via e-mail! I DO NOT have a secure e-mail line.)
If you want a spot in line for early delivery you can request this via
e-mail, and mail your check or CC number.
At present time I estimate 4- 10 weeks before your delivery, depending on
when I receive your payment.
To those of you who have been in correspondence with me for the last year,
thanks for your belief in EM aviation's product, and soon you will have a
product in your hands. I honor my correspondence of the quoted price.
Current price $295 + mount & options see web site for information.
www.riteangle.com
Elbie Mendenhall
President
EM Aviation, LLC
P NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie WA 98606
360-260-0772
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert.northrup(at)kodak.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Jig |
From: Robert Northrup
Free to a good home, one each RV-8 fuselage jig in Rochester, New York.
Please repond to my e-mail,
robert.northrup(at)kodak.com
Bob
80578
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert.northrup(at)kodak.com |
| Subject: | RV8 Fuselage Jig |
From: Robert Northrup
My fuselage jig has been spoken for. Only 47 minutes on the site! That's
quite a response time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Rush <Gary.Rush(at)west.sun.com> |
| Subject: | Unfinished RV-8 for sale |
I have a partially completed RV-8 for sale.
Wings are completed (includes the strobes)
Empennage is completed
Fuselage - drilled, primed and ready to be riveted
I have not ordered the finish kit.
For sale for $9,950 firm.
After having attempted to get my tail dragger sign off, I have realized that I
am a much better nose dragger pilot and I do not want to tempt fate.
I can be contacted at gary.rush(at)west.sun.com.
I am located in Carlsbad, CA.
Thanks,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Forsale" <rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Divorce Sale |
RV8A Divorce Sale
RV Fans my pending divorce is forcing the sale of my RV8A project. I am
losing both my home and workshop and will very soon lack the resources to
work on my project. Enough praise of my wife's skills.
What I have is an RV8A tail, wing and fuselage kits for sale. Tail complete
except for fiberglass. Wing kit nearly complete ready for bottom skin
riveting. Fuselage kit firewall, bulkheads and floor assembly done ready for
installation into jig. It has electric trim elevator and aileron, adjustable
rudder peddles and rear peddles (both at wife's insistence) and Duckworth
landing lights from Van's in both wings. Don't want to start the primer wars
but... I am of the alodine and epoxy primer camp; all parts have been
treated that way. I am an A&P and aviation professional and the project has
been built in a
correct and airworthy manor.
Checked Van's wed site today and have found the price for the basic kits is
$12007 looking for a "fair, honest, and reasonable offer" to jump start
someone into an 8A.
Please contact me off list at (rv8aforsale(at)hotmail.com)
My tools are not for sale, as I WILL start again once I am reestablished.
Shafted in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8A Quick Build Wings and Fuselage for Sale |
For Sale
RV8A Quick Build Wings and Fuselage for sale. All parts in new condition.
Purchased in April of 2000. Fuselage has never been out of the shipping
crate. All parts have been inventoried. The only work that has been done is
on the left wing. The bottom skin has been drilled on and dimpled but not
riveted. The wings are back in the shipping crate. So pick up will be very
easy for someone in the Midwest. The kit was received from Vans in May
of 2000.
An unexpected job change and move forces sale. Since August, I have had
little time to work on the airplane.
A new kit from Vans is $17,425.00 plus shipping. It would cost a thousand
dollars to have it shipped from Vans to the Midwest.
Please e-mail me a reasonable offer at dweb5(at)adams.net .
Located in Illinois.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Maybe this is why I build so slow. I always wanted there to be a wiff of
kerosene around my little fighter. From this morning's AOPA newsletter, for
those that missed it:
FRENCH COMPANY TO PRODUCE DIESEL ENGINE
A French company has received Design Organization Approval in Europe for its
SR 305
230-horsepower diesel engine that offers improved performance, longer TBO,
and the
ability to run on jet fuel. SMA, Societe de Motorisation Aeronautiques,
created four years
ago by Aerospatiale and Renault for the development and sales of a range of
piston
aircraft engines, plans to go into production soon. All of the testing has
been completed.
Following an administrative process, the company expects to have
certification under
the Joint Aviation Authorities (JAA) by the end of the month, said a company
official.
Through a reciprocal agreement, SMA also plans to receive FAA certification
in the
United States later this year. A price has not been announced. For more, see
the Web
site ( http://www.smaengines.com/ ).
They talk about 200 to 300 hp models. No word yet on weight, price, or
availability.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
about ready to rivet fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/23/01 |
Here=E2=80=99s a win-win offer!
I am about to embark on a first-time Rocket kit build and this may be my
only one. I
would like to save $ by acquiring used tools from a Van=E2=80=99s or derivative
builder who is
finished or about to complete, and also may not be planning another.
Please do not reply through the list, but directly to me: DvdBock(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Assembly |
> For my RV8 wing, I have thought about just clecoing the main ribs to the
> front and rear spars, then placing it in the jig to drill the skins. Then
> disassemble and prime the ribs. Anybody else try this route?
> Thanks in advance,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> DSM
Jack,
You could do that but it would result in a lot more work on your part.
Jigging your wings can be fairly time consuming to get everything exactly
plumb. The time you would save in priming everything as a batch would be
less than the time spent re-jigging. Bottom line: I wouldn't do it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing details, fly in May(?)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Old o-320 flange bushings? |
Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
Thanks all,
Dan Ward
81243
finishing kit (about half way)
TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TVConrad(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: blind rivets |
Cherry Max rivet removal is a breeze after the lock ring is removed. The
trick is the lock ring. Easiest way is to use a carbide tip, round burr to
grind off the stem & lock ring. After ring is removed, knock out center with
a punch, than drill off the rivet head. Protect the skin by placing furance
tape around the rivet before you start this process.
Tim (buildin' an RV8 in Indiana)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 LG Box heads up |
I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
the web at:
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
all back afterwards.
2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
bolts. Not fun.
I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
by Van's first.
I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 LG Box heads up |
Kevin:
Can you replace the offending screw with an AN426-5X riven AND drill out the
rivet you had swapped for it and replace it with and AN509 screw? That
should leave you a little stronger than Van intended.
For sure don't do option 4. Once you have the tank vent tubes, wiring and
avionics coax cable running through those LG boxes and have the windshield
and forward fuselage riveted in place you'll not want to do any repetitive
maintenance jobs in that area.
I'd also recommend you talk to Vans: preferably Ken Krueger, whom I've found
to have a solid engineering knowledge of the plane as well as a very
pragmatic approach to problem solving.
There's no problem on this airplane that can't be fixed.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)- endless firewall forward almost ended.
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 LG Box heads up
>Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:48:31 -0500
>
>
>I picked the brains of several RV-8 builders prior to building the LG
>boxes for my RV-8. They gave me lots of good advice, which I put on
>the web at:
>
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/fuselage/f06.html
>
>I started to permanently install my LG legs this weekend, and
>discovered a glitch. I had gotten advice from earlier builders to
>swap a rivet location for an AN509 screw location. I did that to
>sort out an apparent interference problem, but it has created a bit
>of a domino effect. I now discover that the reason Van put that
>rivet where he did is that it is next to the nut on the NAS bolts
>that attach the U-803s. Now I have an AN509 screw at that location,
>and the nut gets in the way. I see four options:
>
>1. insert the NAS bolts the other way, with the nuts on the bottom.
>The cover will have to be shortened, as the bolt ends will protrude,
>but that area gets covered with a fairing anyway. I'll need to
>remove several AN509 screws to get the bolts in, but I can put them
>all back afterwards.
>
>2. Put an AN426 5-X rivet in place of the AN509 screw. You lose a
>tiny bit of strength, but there are a lot of fasteners in that area,
>so I suspect the loss of strength is in the noise.
>
>3. Put a CherryMax rivet in place of the AN509 screw. This has more
>strength than option 2, but I'm not sure how big the pulled head is
>on the rivet. It might be long enough to still get in the way.
>
>4. Remove the AN509 screws, and replace them after the NAS bolts are
>torqued. I'm not yet sure if I could get all the AN509 screws back
>in, and they would have to come out every time you retorqued those
>bolts. Not fun.
>
>I'm leaning towards option 1. Options 2 or 3 should probably be run
>by Van's first.
>
>I updated my Landing Gear Box notes to reflect this latest info.
>
>Lesson of the day - don't assume you are smarter than Van ;-)
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing landing gear)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
I had that on a 0290...I pressed them out, then went to western propeller in
troughtdale ore, and he gave (read sold) me new bushings I needed...I am
told the old 0320's are the same...good luck
RV8A fininshing...I think
do not aechive
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> finishing kit (about half way)
>
> TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>
You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
you are
doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
the LYC.
parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old o-320 flange bushings? |
Terry B
I am using a Dermuth wood prop, and they can make my hole pattern anything
I need. Tell me how it will not effect the crush plate and the 2 1/2inch
prop extention. I need to let the prop people know. It would be great if I
didn't have to change it.
Thanks,
Dan W
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:39 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Old o-320 flange bushings?
>
>
>>
>> Help, I have an OLD 0-320-nothing, with 3/8 bushings on the prop flange.
>> Van's catalog says they need to be replaced with 7/16. Where in the heck
>> can I get them, or do I need to drill and tap them out?
>>
>You only need the 7/16 bushings if you are going to a CS. If that is what
>you are
>doing, then you will need 3 different bushings. You can get the #s out of
>the LYC.
>parts book. They are not cheap! NO DRILLING OF OLD BUSHINGS!
>the original threads are rolled.Terry B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Rudberg <toddr(at)electroimpact.com> |
| Subject: | cratex part number1357-f |
all,
if you are deburring punched lightening holes try this rubberized abrasive.
it has a 1/4" 20 insert and you mount it on a mandrel for a 1/4" die
grinder. the abrasive is 7/8" diameter x 1.25" long and is rated to
20,000rpm. first true the things up on a ruff something (i use a peice of
concrete slab in my garage footing). i just did a bunch of wing ribs and
spars in about an hour -- faster than i did just four ribs using sandpaper
and scotch bright. definitely worth the money. check out www.cratex.com.
try part number 1367-f (f stand for fine - i find this works best for me).
they are $5.00 per package of 25.
i also use the same compond in my dremel tool for doing smaller cutouts like
where the rib flanges meet. these products have saved me a lot of time and
do a much better job than any other method i have seen. when using these
smaller bullet style, reshape and balance them on the same ruff something
you used in the above paragraph.
you can order these from mcmaster carr.
i do not work for cratex nor do i hold any stock in this company, i just
hate deburring and these make it go faster. i just wish i had found this
product sooner for myself.
have fun,
todd rudberg
n232tb
rv-8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Lycomming cyl base nut? |
Anyone,
I need a (thats right, just one) cylinder base nut for my 0-320.
Specifically, I need the 3/8, Lyc p/n 71134. Minimum order, plus shipping
and handling and all that makes it VERY expensive. Anyone have one I can
buy, a good used one would be fine.
Also, I have some specific questions about my engine, any engine people out
there?
Thanks,
Dan 81243
Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycomming cyl base nut? |
Call John Hendrickson at Superior Air Parts in Dallas. 800 487-4884. I'll
bet he can fix you up. John is a good guy. The nut shouldn't cost but a
couple of buck, I would guess. Tom Waiting for my QB RV-8 ----- Original
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Lycomming cyl base nut?
>
> Anyone,
>
> I need a (thats right, just one) cylinder base nut for my 0-320.
> Specifically, I need the 3/8, Lyc p/n 71134. Minimum order, plus shipping
> and handling and all that makes it VERY expensive. Anyone have one I can
> buy, a good used one would be fine.
>
> Also, I have some specific questions about my engine, any engine people
out
> there?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan 81243
> Finishing kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing bolt torque? |
Listers,
Just wanted to confirm the torque settings I am about to use in finally
tightening my wing bolts. The smaller bolts are AN-4s and the table in AC
43.13 shows 50-75 in/lbs. The larger bolts are AN7 in size but are special
high-strength bolts. Do I use the standard torque setting for an AN7 fine
thread of 450-500 in/lbs?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, sure isn't as warm in the hangar as it was in the garage!
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycomming cyl base nut? |
I Just completed the overhaul on my 0-320. I have some used nuts from my
engine.
I had some chewed nuts so I decided to replace all of them. Next time I will
ask the price first. It cost over $100. 00. I am also an A&P so I be able to
answer your questions. You can call me at 303-797-1373 or we can use E mail.
Mark Delano
EAA Tech counselor
6A finish kit
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> Anyone,
>
> I need a (thats right, just one) cylinder base nut for my 0-320.
> Specifically, I need the 3/8, Lyc p/n 71134. Minimum order, plus shipping
> and handling and all that makes it VERY expensive. Anyone have one I can
> buy, a good used one would be fine.
>
> Also, I have some specific questions about my engine, any engine people out
> there?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan 81243
> Finishing kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycomming cyl base nut? |
Mark,
Thanks for the response. AS you well know nothing that has Lycomming on it
is cheap. I have a guy that offered to send me one. IF that doesn't
materialize I'd be happy to buy a good used one from you.
I have a 0-320, and when I was last over hauled it has high compression
pistons put in it. I believe that makes it a 160hp version of the 150hp
engine. I have heard that lycomming doesn't like that, but heard others say
it has worked fine for years. I have about 100 smoh and really don't want
to take it apart.
The engine has a very early Marvel carb on it, and my slightly high EGT
confirms the talk I hear from others that the early carbs ran lean. I tried
rejetting it, with no change. What version carb would you suggest? I'd much
rather run rich than lean.
Thank you for your assistance.
Dan
>
>I Just completed the overhaul on my 0-320. I have some used nuts from my
>engine.
>I had some chewed nuts so I decided to replace all of them. Next time I will
>ask the price first. It cost over $100. 00. I am also an A&P so I be able to
>answer your questions. You can call me at 303-797-1373 or we can use E mail.
>
>Mark Delano
>EAA Tech counselor
>6A finish kit
>
>TwoAviators wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyone,
>>
>> I need a (thats right, just one) cylinder base nut for my 0-320.
>> Specifically, I need the 3/8, Lyc p/n 71134. Minimum order, plus shipping
>> and handling and all that makes it VERY expensive. Anyone have one I can
>> buy, a good used one would be fine.
>>
>> Also, I have some specific questions about my engine, any engine people out
>> there?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan 81243
>> Finishing kit
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mdelano" <mdelano(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycomming cyl base nut? |
I plan to use a MA4SPA Marvel carb on my enj. I agree that it is better to run
rich. What do you mean by 'slightly high EGT'. If your carb is rebuilt to Marvel
specifications and properly adjusted it should be OK. I would also check the
calibration of your EGT sys. I had a hangar mate who installed a Westac EGT, had
high temp indications. After several conversations with the manufacturer he
discovered they had supplied the wrong thermocouple, that is his gage was
calibrated with a type K thermocouple and they sent him type J. Both will produce
an indication an the gage but the wrong type will give erroneous readings.
I would also expect the 160 HP to have higher EGT than the lower compression
engine as is producing more power.
I would not be in to big a hurry to take your eng. apart. there are many things
to
look at before you disassemble it
Enough of my rambling good luck
Mark
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> Thanks for the response. AS you well know nothing that has Lycomming on it
> is cheap. I have a guy that offered to send me one. IF that doesn't
> materialize I'd be happy to buy a good used one from you.
>
> I have a 0-320, and when I was last over hauled it has high compression
> pistons put in it. I believe that makes it a 160hp version of the 150hp
> engine. I have heard that lycomming doesn't like that, but heard others say
> it has worked fine for years. I have about 100 smoh and really don't want
> to take it apart.
>
> The engine has a very early Marvel carb on it, and my slightly high EGT
> confirms the talk I hear from others that the early carbs ran lean. I tried
> rejetting it, with no change. What version carb would you suggest? I'd much
> rather run rich than lean.
>
> Thank you for your assistance.
>
> Dan
>
> >
> >I Just completed the overhaul on my 0-320. I have some used nuts from my
> >engine.
> >I had some chewed nuts so I decided to replace all of them. Next time I will
> >ask the price first. It cost over $100. 00. I am also an A&P so I be able to
> >answer your questions. You can call me at 303-797-1373 or we can use E mail.
> >
> >Mark Delano
> >EAA Tech counselor
> >6A finish kit
> >
> >TwoAviators wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Anyone,
> >>
> >> I need a (thats right, just one) cylinder base nut for my 0-320.
> >> Specifically, I need the 3/8, Lyc p/n 71134. Minimum order, plus shipping
> >> and handling and all that makes it VERY expensive. Anyone have one I can
> >> buy, a good used one would be fine.
> >>
> >> Also, I have some specific questions about my engine, any engine people out
> >> there?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Dan 81243
> >> Finishing kit
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
All,
After some great advise, I am looking for a carb to replace the one I have.
I have a Marvel 10-3678-12, and am looking for a 10-3678-32, 10-5135, or
10-5217. I will trade my carb + cash if anyone is interested, or buy outright.
Thanks to Bart for his knowledge and insight.
Dan
TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb/fuel pump for sale |
Going with fuel injecation, have boxed carb and low pressure plump new from
Lycoming. Carb 10-4164-1, pump ? standard on 0-360. $700
On vacataion Sun. til Apr. 1.
Dennis
Off list or 541-687-2360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Rudberg <toddr(at)electroimpact.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Gear Legs -- Grove Aircraft |
All,
If you like the idea of Aluminum Gear Legs for your RV-8 check out Grove
Aircraft's design. I have talked with Robbie Grove and was impressed with
his knowledge. If my recommendation does not impress you (which it
shouldn't), relize that he builds gear legs for Zilco aircraft as well as
others so he knows what he is doing. I really like the fared gear legs he
made for John Huft http://skywagon.homestead.com/rv8.html. I have placed my
name on a list of individuals who would like to get these. They are $1500,
but Van's gives you almost $700 for your gear legs, so you are out $800, but
no need for gear leg fairings and brake lines. Last I heard Robbie needs to
get commitment from eight others in order to make more. His number: (619)
562-1268.
Also, I just recieved my Hot Tips from Massey Aircraft. They are cool. See
click on link below:
http://www.masseyaircraftservice.com/performance.htm
On all the above, do your own research and call Van's for their opinion on
these changes.
Humbly submited by,
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings
N232TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Gear Legs -- Grove Aircraft |
Naive thoughts regarding the AL gear legs: I REALLY like the sound of
already-faired and internal brake lines. But I wonder about the wear of the
AL against the steel attachment hardware, as seen in this picture:
http://skywagon.homestead.com/files/belly_leg.jpg
Isn't the AL going to loose that battle?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Rudberg
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:47 PM
> To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV8-List: Aluminum Gear Legs -- Grove Aircraft
>
>
> All,
> If you like the idea of Aluminum Gear Legs for your RV-8 check out Grove
> Aircraft's design. I have talked with Robbie Grove and was impressed with
> his knowledge. If my recommendation does not impress you (which it
> shouldn't), relize that he builds gear legs for Zilco aircraft as well as
> others so he knows what he is doing. I really like the fared gear legs he
> made for John Huft http://skywagon.homestead.com/rv8.html. I
> have placed my
> name on a list of individuals who would like to get these. They
> are $1500,
> but Van's gives you almost $700 for your gear legs, so you are
> out $800, but
> no need for gear leg fairings and brake lines. Last I heard
> Robbie needs to
> get commitment from eight others in order to make more. His number: (619)
> 562-1268.
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | man'l trim control |
has anyone pix (e-mail) of man'l trim installation on a RV8a...need some
ideas on the placement. of the contorl cable....thanks in advance..
RV8a, finishing..I think...maybe...possibly...well.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
does any one in the greater portland-salem aerea have the large dimple
dies that fit the large inspection plates in the wings of the RV8's that
I could rent, beg, or borrow?I assume one uses the ones that use the
pop-rivet tool...thanks...503-678-3343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Fuselage F815 to F804 Attach |
Hello,
STAGE: Fuselage measuring the F804 to rear spar distance to insure wings
will fit prior to 'tacking down' the F815 floor rib.
PROBLEM: Though everything lines up, the F815 floor rib flange does not
tuck under the F804 main carry through spar flange enough to rivet through
it and still maintain rivet hole to edge(end) clearance.
I have emailed Van's but would like to get working this weekend.
QUESTION: Anyone else been in the same boat, or more accurately the same
inverted canoe? Your solution?
Thanks and Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
I just got a call from Sen. Jim Inhofe (R-OK), informing me that he's looking
to sell his RV-8. He is expecting his new -8 to be done soon and doesn't want
two RV-8s. Can't imagine why.
He had it at Oshkosh last year, so those of you who perused the RV corral may
have noticed it.
He has a website with pics and contact info at:
http://www.padre.homestead.com/
I told him I'd pass this info on to the RV-8 list community.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AN3 Bolt edge dist |
Builder's What is the min edge distance for an AN3 bolt through .125 alum
material, is it the same as rivets, 2x
Chris RV8 Mounting horiz an vert stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug and Kelly Snead <kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com> |
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
To any new RV builder,
> I have some basic tools for sale that I bought
> from Avery and from the Yard. If you would like
more
> information please write or call at:
>
> kellyndoug(at)yahoo.com
> 580-233-8997
>
>
> Doug
> Enid, OK
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | dumb question # 44499776 |
has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
comments?...thanks...jolly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb question # 44499776 |
sir, I think Rocket Engineering has a cowling, though I wonder why you
don't use Vans. I am finishing my -8, and will use Vans cowling with some
modification. Good Luck.
dan
81243 finishing
N417SN reserved
>
>has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
>cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
>around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
>comments?...thanks...jolly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimandkathy" <jimandkathy(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb question # 44499776 |
Try Sam James, he provides a nice alternative.
Jim Stone
SDF
----- Original Message -----
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: RV8-List: dumb question # 44499776
>
> has anyone decided to replace the van's supplied cowl with a different
> cowl?...I sure would like to change mine, but havn't heard of anyone
> around the portland-salem washington aerea doing it...any
> comments?...thanks...jolly
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/23/01 |
Gentlemen, and ladies,
I looking for 3/8 prop bolts. I think I need AN6 -82. Suggestions? Using
Aymar Demuth prop and Van's 2 1/4 extension and crush plate.
Thanks,
Dan
81243 Finishing kit
N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hello listers,
Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen? and
last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA vent???? |
Jack,
I dimpled the skin and used flush pop rivets. Also used Blue RTV.
I will insert a screen to keep the nasty bugs out.
Larry
RV-8QB 81251
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:49:01 -0500
Hello listers,
Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen? and
last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
Jack
DSM
RV8, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Mine is on with proseal only. Other have assured me it's never coming off.
I'll put a screen over the round end when I install the hose.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 2:49 PM
> To: RV-8-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
>
>
> Hello listers,
> Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
> with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
> (.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of
> some type,
> just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of
> screen? and
> last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
> vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
> Jack
> DSM
> RV8, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Burch" <rv6man(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/09/01 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A- *
- RV8-List Digest Archive
- ---
- Total Messages Posted Wed 05/09/01: 3
-
-
-
_______
- From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com ...'=0A=0A=0A> Take a look to the attachment.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA vent???? |
Jack:
The reason for using pop rivets is the very difficult access to this point.
If you can get to it to buck it, there's no reason not to use flush rivets
(but you won't gain much other than a certain smugness).
I don't think that you need a screen (Just my opinion).
I also don't think a second vent would help much, and will give you major
space and layout problems in the rear cockpit.
George
N888GK
Finishing cooling baffles
>From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: NACA vent????
>Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:49:01 -0500
>
>
>Hello listers,
>Close to closing my right wing (rv8). The manual says to install the vent
>with proseal and pop rivets. Would it be better to countersink the skin
>(.032) and use flush rivets? Also, should I install a screen of some type,
>just below the skin or the inlet or outlet of the hose? Size of screen?
>and
>last but not least, it sounds like the RV series is hot, should I plan a
>vent in the left wing also for extra air? Thanks!
>Jack
>DSM
>RV8, wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
j. dawson
RV8A finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage. I have my
renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more info on Van's
website.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of old ogre
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:21 AM
> To: RV-8-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
> please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
> j. dawson
> RV8A finishing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | 8A spar center section rivets |
I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A and
F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section, I
was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
Matthew
-8A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Flying RV-8ers,
What are you using for Vx and Vy?
Also, what have you determined as "best glide" speed?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
Go to van's web page and click on the web link for NationAir.
Good builder's insurance rates.
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV8-List: insurance
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 06:20:48 -0700
I have been told there is construction insurance available...can anyone
please tell me which one is the best to get...if there is one...thanks
j. dawson
RV8A finishing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Whoops. Spoke to soon. I just received a cancellation notice from
GreatAmerican, the underwriter for my renters insurance from
NationAir/VanGuard. "Because we have discontinued writing your class and
type of risk."
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:26 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage.
> I have my
> renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more
> info on Van's
> website.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A spar center section rivets |
Matthew,
I'm in about the same area you are and have been wondering the same thing. I
have read through the entire instruction set for the fuselage and can't find
it either. I have come close to going ahead and doing it, but remembered how
many rivets I have drilled out and passed. Maybe it is in the finish kit???
Bill C., RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
>
> I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
> wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
and
> F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that
attach
> the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
> when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
> row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
> I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick
support.
> Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
I
> was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
> Matthew
> -8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Larry--
Hey, watch that ROOT CANAL comment, bub ... I take serious exception to being
lumped together with tax collectors and other sinners!
--Don McNamara
Ver-r-r-y slow RV-8 builder and dentist (who just happens to enjoy doing
exceptionally painless root canals!)
Larry Bowen wrote:
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Fitting |
I need a new fitting for connecting fuel supply to my Marvel carburetor on
an O-360A4M.
Anybody know a source for these?
Do they have the same thread as the fuel pump fittings which are available
from Van's? If not, does anyone know what the thread is?
Thanks for any help.
George Kilishek
99% done. A lot left to do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Prop bolts, help! |
I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an airplane.
Please anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
Dan Ward
81432
N417SN(reserved)
Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolts, help! |
I was able to buy a new set of prop bolts (7/16x7-1/2") from Sensenich.
Denise was very helpful, and even gave me an OEM discount (15%)without my
asking. Price was $225 for the set (not cheap, even discounted). Their
phone # is 717-569-0435.
Good luck.
George
N888GK (reserved).
99% finished. End still not in sight.
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Prop bolts, help!
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:32:04 -0400
>
>
>I have a 0-320 with 3/8 prop bolts. After being discouraged from changing
>to 7/16, I now have not been able to find AN6-73's 0r An6W73 bolts. They
>are 3/8 bolts 7 1/2 " long. I have my prop, and spacer and hate to change
>now. Aircraft Spruce has 8" bolts for a measly $40 each (Geeeezzzzzzzzz) I
>have called bolt suppliers and they don't want to talk if its for an
>airplane.
>
>Please anyone have any ideas???
>
>Thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>81432
>N417SN(reserved)
>Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Prop bolts, help! |
> Dan Ward
> 81432
> N417SN(reserved)
> Finishing Kit, (about half finished with peoject)
What does that mean, you have another year to go?! I don't think so!
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
Re the prop bolts....
Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any machine
shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can it?
Jerry Cochran
RV6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life is
worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 3:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01
>
> Re the prop bolts....
>
> Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any
machine
> shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can
it?
>
> Jerry Cochran
> RV6a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/25/01 |
In a message dated 5/25/01 10:54:05 PM, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< you got to be kidding, have a machine shop make the prop bolts! My life is
worth more than a set of bolts.... Tom Schad A&P IA >>
With all due respect.... ANY material such as stainless or nitrided steel or
whatever can be EXACTLY duplicated. This is not rocket science, although with
the prices folks like Cessna charge, you'd think it was. I totally respect
your point of using only the "expensive brand" prop bolts, and when it comes
time for mine, I'll probably do the same thing, but just because of the
convenience, nothing else. But no doubt in my mind someone with the expertise
and inclination could easily duplicate those. Any materials engineers or
machinists out there want to weigh in on this one?
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR (that's right, 10 min. from Van's, lucky me.)
RV6a wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg V Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
I'm using Vx=75 and Vy=95 knots. Best glide is about Vy too. Here are some
other numbers collected:
7000 ft, 78% power, 2780 RPM, full throttle, GPS speed check: 163, 175,
177, 191average high cruise ground speed of 176 knots = 202.4 mph
45% power to maintain 65KI at full flaps
25% power to maintain 65KI at flaps
21% power to maintain 65KI at 0 flaps
Stall, 6500 ft, no flaps, GPS speed check: 50KI, 51 knots into wind; 51KI,
71 knots downwindcall it 50 KI and 60 knots ground speed (= 70 mph)
Stall, 6500 ft, full flaps, GPS speed check: 40KI, 42 knots into wind;
40KI, 56 knots downwindcall it 40 KI and 49 knots groundspeed (= 56 mph)
Level 100 KI at 5000 ft took 23% power
Using Technology Kitchen Engine Power Monitor
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, 55 hrs TT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Vx & Vy?
Flying RV-8ers,
What are you using for Vx and Vy?
Also, what have you determined as "best glide" speed?
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg V Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
I have insurance through AIG: $60K hull and $1M liability for $1300/yr. Had
to fly the first 25 hr without insurance though, since that was their
minimum.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, 55 hr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
Whoops. Spoke to soon. I just received a cancellation notice from
GreatAmerican, the underwriter for my renters insurance from
NationAir/VanGuard. "Because we have discontinued writing your class and
type of risk."
In my book, insurance rates right up there with taxes and root canals!!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:26 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: insurance
>
>
> The Van's-sponsered insurance, VanGuard, offers project coverage.
> I have my
> renters ins through them too. So far, so good. There is more
> info on Van's
> website.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01 |
Jerry:
Yes, I think they can be that exotic. These bolts operate in an extremely
difficult environment: shock, vibration, oscillating loads and more. They
must be free of all residual stress, have no crystalline faults in the
material and be corrosion proof, among other things. Your average machine
shop can't come close.
The suppliers of these things are probably making more than a good buck on
them, but after paying for the product liability insurance they may not be
doing as well as we think.
Just my opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
99% done. Probably never be finished.
>From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/01
>Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:33:54 EDT
>
>
>Re the prop bolts....
>
>Find out what material they're made from (must be gold :-)) and any machine
>shop can machine the threads for you. Heck, it can't be THAT exotic, can
>it?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>RV6a wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8A spar center section rivets |
Matt:
Did you ever get a definitive answer on this? My bird is about ready to fly
and I haven't put those rivets in yet.
George
N888GK (reserved)
>From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: 8A spar center section rivets
>Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 09:12:26 -0700
>
>
>I'm currently installing the floors and control tube in my -8A, and am
>wondering when I rivet the two halves of the wing center section (F-804A
>and
>F-804B) together. I'm referring to the row of 12, 1/8" rivets that attach
>the upper forward flanges together. The bottom side was riveted together
>when I put the skins on, but I can't seem to find a reference to this top
>row of rivets in the manual. Hopefully I didn't overlook it.
>
>I ask because I'm about to drill the bolt holes for the rear stick support.
>Since the front stick support attaches to the front of the center section,
>I
>was wondering if the rivets I'm asking about should already be in.
>
>Matthew
>-8A fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | another dumb question |
I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: another dumb question |
Don't think you'll do any structural damage. Why not wait till the wings
are hung, though. Then you won't have to rig a fuel tank and feed. How you
gonna tie it down?
George
N888GK
>From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: another dumb question
>Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:43:51 -0700
>
>
>I have a RV8A...the fuse is almost finished, with the engine hung,
>wired, plumbed, ect...the wings are still off...is it safe to run the
>engine with the wings off, or will sturcture damage result?....thanks..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 ingress/egress |
Guys,
Let me offer to start a very serious and controversial thread here, one that
is surely to be looked up frequently in the archives...
"What is the best way for passengers to get in and out of the back seat of
an RV-8?"
There, I asked, I admit it, I can't figure it out. I can build the friggin
plane, but I can't for the life of me figure out an elegant way for
passengers to get in and get out *without* stepping on my nice new DJ
Lauritsen upholstery. So please offer up the results of your extensive
ergonomic testing in this area for the benefit of all, and especially me! Of
course demonstration pictures would always be appreciated, in fact I
volunteer to post the winning technique on my site.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 33.1 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 ingress/egress |
Randy I have always accepted the fact that in this type of airplane YOU WILL
step on the back seat. I am planning to have a small mat made up to place on
both seats to step on until you get in. Will keep the dirt and stuff off of
the seat and in turn off of your tail feathers.
Nearly every airplane of this type that I have flown (Two holer, fore and
aft) requires that you step on the seat. T-34's, Stearmans, T-6, Pitts, etc.
I don't know of anyone who has the proper number of degrees of freedom at
the base of the spine and leg intersection that will permit having one leg on
the wing walk and the other on the floor of the airplane. I just finished a
back operation and I can tell you for a fact that I sure as hell am not going
to try to through my afterburner out of joint trying to reach the floor in
one shot.
Make a nice little pad to put on the seat, grab the roll bar, put your right
foot on the seat and then raise the left foot and put it down in the cockpit.
Depending on size you may want to continue to hold the roll bar and/or
place one or both hands on the cockpit rails and lower yourself into the pit.
Of course you have to get that right foot out of the way and you might want
to let your seat pack slide down the seat back to keep from crashing onto the
seat.
By the way I looked at Jeff's RV-8 when it was here at 14A and he had three
cushions made up for the back seat so that you could adjust the height for
different passengers. Neat idea and I am going to copy it.
I once crawled into a Mooney Mite and could not get out. You sit on the
floor with a very thin seat cushion and there is no place to hook your heel
to get any leverage to push yourself out. The cockpit rails, at the time,
placed my arms at a point where I could not get any leverage to push myself
up and out. Finally I had to summon my buddy and ask him to haul my fanny up
far enough so I could get out of the damned thing. It was the first and last
time for me in an M-18. Got a lot of laughs out of that over the years.
Now lets see what some others have to say in this airmans ballet.
Howard Cochran
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | RV-8 ingress/egress |
Ahhh, I can finally speak with experience, WITHOUT having my own flying
RV-8! :)
I'm 5'11", around 180lb and have by now had a few back seat rides in 2
different 8's. I have always been able to enter without stepping on the
seat. Here's what I do:
Before you start the routine, you must of course place the harness in a way
so you won't sit on it. Also make sure the foot wells are clear. I find that
sometimes maps etc. might slide down in them.
1) Step on the wing-walk with both feet, torso facing the cockpit.
2) Grab left side of roll bar with left hand and right side of turtle deck
with right hand.
3) Put right foot ON THE FLOOR just forward of the seat and aft of the right
rudder pedal.
4) Put left foot on the floor just forward of the seat and aft of the left
rudder pedal.
5) Move hands to grab sides (on the rails I think) one at the time - left
first.
6) Slide in, get comfy, make sure you don't obstruct the stick and enjoy the
fantastic view.
I get out by reversing the technique: Pull feet towards yourself and stand
up by hanging on to the rails first then change grip to roll-bar/turtle deck
and left foot out first (this is a wee bit tough - I have to stretch. Then
right foot out. If your voice sounds like Michael Jackson's when you say
"thanks for a terrific ride", you should get medical attention first, then
read my instructions again...
The other option is something I think Terry Jantzi did: Cut a Styrofoam
piece into the shape of a size 12 foot (pucker factor). The passenger can
then drop the 'foot' in the seat, stand on it and slide in. You should
probably remove the 'foot' before sitting down to avoid discomfort... :)
NOTE: I noticed that one builder installed the fire extinguisher on the left
wall just under the rail. This seem to conflict with the knees of passengers
that are taller than 6'2". It was also in the way when exiting the seat
since the left foot had to be lifted higher at an earlier stage. Another
installation I saw was behind the pilots seat-back; up fairly high. This was
nice and does not interfere with the passenger. I'm not sure how easy the
pilot can reach it though. I will try it sometime before installing mine.
I will be able to take pictures of this tomorrow if anyone is interested.
Are
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@rv-8.com]
Sent: June 1, 2001 12:49 AM
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 ingress/egress
Guys,
Let me offer to start a very serious and controversial thread here, one that
is surely to be looked up frequently in the archives...
"What is the best way for passengers to get in and out of the back seat of
an RV-8?"
There, I asked, I admit it, I can't figure it out. I can build the friggin
plane, but I can't for the life of me figure out an elegant way for
passengers to get in and get out *without* stepping on my nice new DJ
Lauritsen upholstery. So please offer up the results of your extensive
ergonomic testing in this area for the benefit of all, and especially me! Of
course demonstration pictures would always be appreciated, in fact I
volunteer to post the winning technique on my site.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, 33.1 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net> |
unsubscribe dweb5(at)adams.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBSumrell(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/03/01 |
Please unsubscribe bbsumrell@cs/.com
Thank you ,BBS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/07/01 |
Still need some basic tools like 3x Rivet Gun, Microstop countersinks, C
bench dimpler,
Deburring Set, etc. I am about to embark on a first-time F1 Rocket kit build
and I would
like to save $ by acquiring used tools from a prior builder. Please do not
reply through
the list, but directly to me: DvdBock(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Prull <sprull(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Empennage for sale |
Well, it's taken me a year to finish the empennage , and I've come to
the conclusion that it's going to take me a long time to get this project
done, so I'm going to sell it and look for another avenue to get into the
air. So....
FOR SALE: finished RV8 empennage, with serial number, plans, builders
manual. Internal services primed, excellent workmanship (checked by A&P
early on). Asking $2200. Also, will negotiate on selling some tools ( 3X
rivet gun, Tatco squeezer, C-tool, rivet sets, dies, etc.). Have digitized
photos of project that I can send you if interested.
Steve Prull
Bend, OR
541-383-8277
sprull(at)bendcable.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Prull <sprull(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Update:RV8 Empennage for sale |
The RV8 empennage is still for sale - but I'm open on the price. I
placed $2200 in the previous ad, not having any idea of what such things go
for, and hoping to get something for my labor. On the other hand, perhaps
I'm dreaming :-) , so I'll just say "Best Offer"
Steve Prull
Bend, OR
541-383-8277
sprull(at)bendcable.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings |
Oshkosh is sneaking up again this year, especially so for those of you
who are scrambling to finish in time to make the event in your new RVs!
Each of the last few years, an informal gathering of RV-8 and -8A
builders has been organized during Oshkosh so that faces can be put with
names, and old acquaintences be renewed.
Since so many of you have been so helpful to me while I continue to
stumble along, I've really enjoyed finally meeting and thanking you for
all your help. I think it's been a good time for all who've dropped by.
This year, Oshkosh ("AirVulture" or "AirVenture", whichever you prefer)
starts on Tuesday, July 24 and runs through Monday, July 30.
Traditionally, we've held the meetings under an open tree in the Theater
in the Woods area, twice during the convention, for any who can show up.
Thursday, July 26 at 9:00am and Sunday, July 29 at 10:00 should allow
time for most who'd like to gather to do so.
If there are major conflicts with seminars or something, we can always
change the schedule. So, for you control freaks, check your calendars
and seminar schedules and let me know if these times are bad.
Otherwise, they'll be chiseled in stone.
I'll be posting this note to the RV-Lists again in July, as Oshkosh
looms closer. As always, these gatherings are NOT exclusive--anyone may
attend. It's just a time to meet other RV-8 builders and swap lies.
Oh, and bring your own coffee and doughnuts. I don't think Bob Dimeo
can carry enough for all of us!
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings |
Fellow -8ers,
Look forward to meeting again.
Thursday at 9 am sounds good.
See you there
Larry
RV-8QB 81251
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
Subject: [rv8list] Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 10:34:43 -0500
Oshkosh is sneaking up again this year, especially so for those of you
who are scrambling to finish in time to make the event in your new RVs!
Each of the last few years, an informal gathering of RV-8 and -8A
builders has been organized during Oshkosh so that faces can be put with
names, and old acquaintences be renewed.
Since so many of you have been so helpful to me while I continue to
stumble along, I've really enjoyed finally meeting and thanking you for
all your help. I think it's been a good time for all who've dropped by.
This year, Oshkosh ("AirVulture" or "AirVenture", whichever you prefer)
starts on Tuesday, July 24 and runs through Monday, July 30.
Traditionally, we've held the meetings under an open tree in the Theater
in the Woods area, twice during the convention, for any who can show up.
Thursday, July 26 at 9:00am and Sunday, July 29 at 10:00 should allow
time for most who'd like to gather to do so.
If there are major conflicts with seminars or something, we can always
change the schedule. So, for you control freaks, check your calendars
and seminar schedules and let me know if these times are bad.
Otherwise, they'll be chiseled in stone.
I'll be posting this note to the RV-Lists again in July, as Oshkosh
looms closer. As always, these gatherings are NOT exclusive--anyone may
attend. It's just a time to meet other RV-8 builders and swap lies.
Oh, and bring your own coffee and doughnuts. I don't think Bob Dimeo
can carry enough for all of us!
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings |
My wife (Tina) I will definitely make one of those meetings, even if we do
have to bring our own munchies! I am about to order the finish kit. Do Not
Archive
Bill & Tina Christie, RV8A, finishing up fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 8:34 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings
>
> Oshkosh is sneaking up again this year, especially so for those of you
> who are scrambling to finish in time to make the event in your new RVs!
>
> Each of the last few years, an informal gathering of RV-8 and -8A
> builders has been organized during Oshkosh so that faces can be put with
> names, and old acquaintences be renewed.
>
> Since so many of you have been so helpful to me while I continue to
> stumble along, I've really enjoyed finally meeting and thanking you for
> all your help. I think it's been a good time for all who've dropped by.
>
> This year, Oshkosh ("AirVulture" or "AirVenture", whichever you prefer)
> starts on Tuesday, July 24 and runs through Monday, July 30.
> Traditionally, we've held the meetings under an open tree in the Theater
> in the Woods area, twice during the convention, for any who can show up.
>
> Thursday, July 26 at 9:00am and Sunday, July 29 at 10:00 should allow
> time for most who'd like to gather to do so.
>
> If there are major conflicts with seminars or something, we can always
> change the schedule. So, for you control freaks, check your calendars
> and seminar schedules and let me know if these times are bad.
> Otherwise, they'll be chiseled in stone.
>
> I'll be posting this note to the RV-Lists again in July, as Oshkosh
> looms closer. As always, these gatherings are NOT exclusive--anyone may
> attend. It's just a time to meet other RV-8 builders and swap lies.
>
> Oh, and bring your own coffee and doughnuts. I don't think Bob Dimeo
> can carry enough for all of us!
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Vokac" <glennrv8(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings |
Thursday, July 26th at 9:00am sounds great. I look forward to meeting all
you fellow RV-8 builders.
--Glenn Vokac
RV-8 #81376
----- Original Message -----
From: <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 10:34 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Oshkosh RV-8/A meetings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian wallis" <brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com> |
Post message
RV-8 for sale. Marriage forces sale
She wants a RV-7
Wings and fuel cells assembled.. awaiting rigging and top sheet of skin on
wings. Landing lights installed... tail beautifuly done as well. Extra RV-8
tail partially assembled for extra or seperate. All except finishing kit
included in kit.
Please email brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com or brianpwallis(at)aol.com
315-775-7913home
315-486-3117cell
Will consider all offers.
Thank you.
Brian Wallis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
has anyone "invented" a tow bar for the nose gear of a RV8A?...it sure
would come
RV8A finishing, finishing, finis.....h.....i.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Goldberg" <n95mf(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 project for sale |
Listers: Four or five days ago I posted about a RV-8 project for sale due to
the builder passing away. Yesterday, I borrowed a digital camera, visited
his widow's house and took my first digital pictures of his project.
This morning my 16 year old son created a Web site on Tripod where he placed
the pictures for all interested to view. I included the description of what
is included in the project, and what work remains to be done. Look at:
http://rv-8project.tripod.com/index.html
The asking price is $40,000. I can be reached at this e-mail address or
512/261-4122 (home) or 512/626-7886 (cell). I will be out of town from
Wednesday until the following Monday. Mark Frederick of Team Rocket also is
familiar with the project and can be reached at 512/365-8131(Work). I
believe he also will be out of town the later part of the week. You could be
flying in a very few months of work. Mark Goldberg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 project for sale |
Hi Mark,
Sorry about the passing of you friend and hopefully you'll be able to see
his project for his widow quickly.
I noticed that the project is located near the Austin area and I had a
question about that area. My wife and I might have a business opportunity
that could take us to the Austin area and we were curious about living in
the area. Do you know if there are any "Aero Communities" in the immediate
vicinty of Austin? If so do you know if they have a web site or other means
of getting information about homes for sale at those communities?
I'm currently completing the wings on my RV6 project and while I don't
relish the idea of relocating myself and my wife "again", we might do it if
the job opportunity is right.
Thanks
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM (res) Building Flaps
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Goldberg" <n95mf(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 project for sale |
Listers, yesterday I posted a message about my late friend's rv-8 almost
finished project for sale. My son attempted to load up some digital
pictures on a website. Several people contacted me off-list that the text
was there, but no pictures.
Well my son says he has the pictures loaded correctly now for your viewing
pleasure. (Thanks Bill VonDane & Cy Galley).
Info on the project and the pictures are at:
http://rv-8project.tripod.com/index.html
I had hoped to make yall laugh with some antecdotes of my friend. But I am
leaving town shortly. No time. Please spread the word to interested people
so my friend's widow can sell the project. Asking price $40,000. My
numbers are: 512/261-4122 (hm)& 512/626-7886 (cell) Mark Goldberg RV-8
N982RV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian wallis" <brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rv-8 kit for sale |
post message
Hello, The RV-8 kit is still for sale; marriage and college dues draw
landing lights already installed)..(gas tanks already done!) FUSELAGE NEW IN
BOX. Extra tail just started available with kit as package deal. Please tell
your friends.. Aircraft kit located in NY. 20 min North of Syracuse.. Local
Mailboxes ETC will package and mail anywhere.
315-775-7913 home
315-772-4109 work
315-486-3117 cell
brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com
brianpwallis(at)aol.com
Thank you for your time.
Brian Wallis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd W. Rudberg" <todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV8ers weight and balance. |
All,
I would like to compile a list of RV8 weight and balance sheets. If you
have completed this stage of your RV8, please email me the W&B for you
ac and I will make a table. Include things like Engine, prop (weight
and type) and battery location and any other points you think are
important. I will post the results on my developing web site.
I think this will really help those of us who are still making decisions
affecting W&B. Like for instance, when I started my RV8 I weighed
230#s...I am now 175, that should help my ac weight problems a bit. I
am dedicated to keeping weight down where possible.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings (N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg
Home: (425)290-7526
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV8ers weight and balance. |
This weight and balance program for the RV-8 is great (and free)!
www.geocities.com/ghale5224
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd W. Rudberg
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 11:10 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8ers weight and balance.
All,
I would like to compile a list of RV8 weight and balance sheets. If you
have completed this stage of your RV8, please email me the W&B for you
ac and I will make a table. Include things like Engine, prop (weight
and type) and battery location and any other points you think are
important. I will post the results on my developing web site.
I think this will really help those of us who are still making decisions
affecting W&B. Like for instance, when I started my RV8 I weighed
230#s...I am now 175, that should help my ac weight problems a bit. I
am dedicated to keeping weight down where possible.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Todd W. Rudberg
RV-8 Wings (N232TB Reserved)
mailto:todd_rudberg(at)yahoo.com
www.geocities.com/todd_rudberg
Home: (425)290-7526
Cell: (425)870-5300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sharon Himsl" <shimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F-826, 827 & 842 heads up |
If you follow the plans and directions from Van's regarding the sequence of
attaching the bottom skins on the RV-8 you could wind up not being able to
line up the match holes in the 842 to the matching holes in the 826 and 827.
Kevin Horton describes this problem with a suggested alternative
installation method and solution in the archives. I have included an
excerpt from his post below.
As I have encountered the same problem, I suspect others have and will. This
is sent in hopes it will alert other builders and save them another hassle.
I suggest when you reach this stage, that you cleco the 842 to the 826 and
827 which will make sure the match holes line up before attaching the 826
and 827 to the rib structure.
My version of the Orndoff videos doesn't mention this problem either so if
you watch the video and follow the plans to the letter, you assume that
attaching the 826, 827 and 842 bottom skins is straight forward. It isn't.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 fuselage
Moscow, Idaho USA
Excerpt from Archive
----
Message: #66396
Date: Jan 17, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 F-826, 827 & 842 gotcha
Hi guys and gals,
I'm drilling the skins to my RV-8 fuselage, and had a minor gotcha
tonight. Not a real big deal, but I sure wish I could do it all over
again, knowing what I know now.
I drilled the F-826 & F-827 bottom center skins. They cleco to the
F-804 at the front, and then just sit on top of the seat ribs until
you drill and cleco them. So far so good (so I thought). Then I
grabbed the F-842 aft bottom skin, and slipped it under the F-826 &
F-827. It has match holes that are supposed to match up with holes
at the aft end of the F-826 & F-827. Well, I quickly discovered that
I couldn't match up with both the F-826 & F-827 at the same time. It
turns out that there is enough slop in the holes clecoed at the front
of the F-826 & F-827 to let the aft ends move slightly. I ended up
with the aft ends of the F-826 & 827 about 3/32 inch too close
together, i.e. the holes that should match up with the F-842 were
3/32 too close together.
How do you prevent this from happening? Well, I would do two things
differently if I could do it all over again. First, when drilling
the F-822 (or F-890 for the -8A), I wouldn't drill out the holes that
hold it to the F-804. Those are the holes that you cleco the F-826 &
827 to, so you will get a tighter fit if they are not drilled out
yet. You have to drill them again when fitting the F-826 & 827
anyway, so there is no point in doing them when fitting the F-822.
Second, when drilling the F-826 & 827, I would consider clecoing them
to the F-804, and then putting the F-842 in place, clecoing the match
holes in it to the F-826 & 827. Then I would drill the center hole
at the aft edge of the F-826 & F-827 to lock them together. That way
you have a reference to make sure that the match holes on the aft
edges of the F-826 & 827 are right distance apart when fitting the
F-842.
Anyway, it wasn't a big disaster. I drilled a couple of extra holes
to compensate for the figure 8 ones I've got now. It is on the
bottom of the fuselage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | another dumb question |
I have a nippondenso altenator taken from a chevy sprint.. it has the
internal volt reg...the plug coming out of the back of it has three
wires..one white, one light yellow, and one black....can't find the
wiring diagram for the sprint anywhere...can some kind soul please tell
me where the **** these wires go....?...no, they won't
fit...there..{:~)...thank you so much...
RV8A..waiting on exhaust pipes, then..paint..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whelen Strobe Wiring |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am installing the terminals for my Whelen Strobes and need to know the
wiring order for the color wires which plug into the central power supply.
The drawing on top states Pin #1 is Anode and Pin #2 is Cathode and Pin #3
is Trigger. The Power supply is the A413AHDA-CF-14/28 The wire cable I
purchased with power supply is Red, Black, Clear and an unshielded Ground
wire. The strobes have corresponding color wires attached to them. I just
can't figure out which color I should plug into which hole on the three pin
plastic connector they furnished.
Can anyone on list offer their expertise. Thanks in advance. E-mail off
line if you desire to < Edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com >. I only get the
digest list the day after they are all compiled.
Ed O'Connor/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City, FL
N366RV
RV-8/ working on fuselage installing ELT and Strobes behind Baggage
Compartment. Landing Gear is next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Grove Gear Deal |
Inspired by an excellent deal on Todds Canopy, I
contacted Robbie Grove to inquire about a group
discount on his Aluminum Gear and Dual Piston
Wheel/Brake Sets. The gear saves 16 to 17lb vs. the
steel gear (verified by a -8 customer) - and looks
better to boot. Please see the Grove web site for
details www.groveaircraft.com.
I will delete these items from my Vans kits, its a
couple hundred dollars difference.
Robbie offered the following at a 10% discount, based
on 3 orders.
PN 1220-1 $1099.00 RV 8 Landing Gear Retrofit
Kit
PN 56-1 539.00 500 X 5 HP Wheel & Brake Assy
PN 5013 2 x 38.60 ea $ 77.20 500 X 5 Axles
PN 5710 4 x 3.00 ea $12.00 Spacers
PN 5510 2 x 11.00 ea $22.00 Axle Nuts
TOTAL $1749.20
10% Discount -174.92
TOTAL PRICE FOR ABOVE $1574.28
Grove Aircraft Company
1860-I Joe Crosson Drive
El Cajon, CA 92020
1-888-GEARLEG (432-7534) Toll-Free
1-619-562-3274 Fax
www.groveaircraft.com
robbie(at)groveaircraft.com technical engineer
teena(at)groveaircraft.com customer service
Please let me know if there are any other takers...
Thanks
Frank Dombroski
RV-8 One wing done, the other closing in. FB Fuse...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Cooling ramp |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
Seems like this is geting harder. I am about to begin installing the
forward belly skins and was studying drawings and found something I don't
understand. Or should I say another thing I don't understand. For you RV-8
builders, drawing 36 - R2 (dated 6/98) on the exploded view, view AA and
View FF all show 2 AN 257-P3 hinges attached to the 802KPP. The 11 1/2"
hinge attaches to 802Kpp for the 867 cooling ramp. The other hinge 7" long
also attaches to 802PP but will be covered by the 851PP. WHAT IS THE
PURPOSE OF THE 7" hinge?? Vidio tapes do not address this hinge nor does
Van's directions. Drawing 36A dated Feb/98 for RV-8A does not show this 7"
hinge. Any help from those whoe have been here already?
Ed O'Conor/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
RV-8/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Tip Tanks & Check Valves |
We have installed the Van's tip tanks on our RV-8. We find that fuel will
seep from the mains to the tips past the "one way" check valves. In poking
around a bit on the www we find that there are all manner of check valves.
Some are spring loaded and claim to be positively zero leaking. Others use a
floating ball valve. Andair makes two, one of which is drilled to ALLOW
"bleed back"
It looks to me that check valves are used for a wide verity of purposes and
they are not designed or made equal. Yet in the common aviation catalogs
we've looked at no distinction is made.
Any info on the zero leakage check valve of choice for use with tip tanks?
Thanks
Ronin Colman
RV-8 N591RC 6+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur and Christine" <act(at)voyager.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Cooling ramp |
The 7" hinge acts as a guide for the hinge pin through the cooling ramp.
This pin is inserted through a hole in the side of the 851pp.
Cheers
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 installing baffles and gear leg fairings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, 15 July 2001 13:33
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Cooling ramp
Seems like this is geting harder. I am about to begin installing the
forward belly skins and was studying drawings and found something I don't
understand. Or should I say another thing I don't understand. For you RV-8
builders, drawing 36 - R2 (dated 6/98) on the exploded view, view AA and
View FF all show 2 AN 257-P3 hinges attached to the 802KPP. The 11 1/2"
hinge attaches to 802Kpp for the 867 cooling ramp. The other hinge 7" long
also attaches to 802PP but will be covered by the 851PP. WHAT IS THE
PURPOSE OF THE 7" hinge?? Vidio tapes do not address this hinge nor does
Van's directions. Drawing 36A dated Feb/98 for RV-8A does not show this 7"
hinge. Any help from those whoe have been here already?
Ed O'Conor/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
RV-8/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
I'm fitting the wing tips to an RV8A ..(thinking of paint)..noticed that
the plans call for 1-1/2 spacing of the screws/rivets holding the tip
on....I have seen a LOT of RV's out on the ramp with spacing at least
4" apart..Is there any fast and set rule as to spacing here?..thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
Most RV's don't have tip tanks, so the tip weight is less of an issue. We
put ours @ 1.5
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of old ogre
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 10:57 AM
Subject: RV8-List: distance?
I'm fitting the wing tips to an RV8A ..(thinking of paint)..noticed that
the plans call for 1-1/2 spacing of the screws/rivets holding the tip
on....I have seen a LOT of RV's out on the ramp with spacing at least
4" apart..Is there any fast and set rule as to spacing here?..thanks..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <jjessen(at)CMBINFO.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/13/01 |
I wonder if this is possible for a 7 or 7A?
- - - - -
From: Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Grove Gear Deal
Inspired by an excellent deal on Todds Canopy, I
contacted Robbie Grove to inquire about a group
discount on his Aluminum Gear and Dual Piston
Wheel/Brake Sets. The gear saves 16 to 17lb vs. the
steel gear (verified by a -8 customer) - and looks
better to boot. Please see the Grove web site for
details www.groveaircraft.com.
I will delete these items from my Vans kits, its a
couple hundred dollars difference.
Robbie offered the following at a 10% discount, based
on 3 orders.
PN 1220-1 $1099.00 RV 8 Landing Gear Retrofit
Kit
PN 56-1 539.00 500 X 5 HP Wheel & Brake Assy
PN 5013 2 x 38.60 ea $ 77.20 500 X 5 Axles
PN 5710 4 x 3.00 ea $12.00 Spacers
PN 5510 2 x 11.00 ea $22.00 Axle Nuts
TOTAL $1749.20
10% Discount -174.92
TOTAL PRICE FOR ABOVE $1574.28
Grove Aircraft Company
1860-I Joe Crosson Drive
El Cajon, CA 92020
1-888-GEARLEG (432-7534) Toll-Free
1-619-562-3274 Fax
www.groveaircraft.com
robbie(at)groveaircraft.com technical engineer
teena(at)groveaircraft.com customer service
Please let me know if there are any other takers...
Thanks
Frank Dombroski
RV-8 One wing done, the other closing in. FB Fuse...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/13/01 |
Frank,
Is the Grove wheel and brake assembly usable on the steel landing gear? If
so, how is it better than what Van's offers.
I would go for the aluminum gear, but I have already received the steel
gear.
Larry
RV-8 1251
Ready to mount the LG
From: John Jessen <jjessen(at)CMBINFO.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/13/01
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 10:01:26 -0400
I wonder if this is possible for a 7 or 7A?
- - - - -
From: Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Grove Gear Deal
Inspired by an excellent deal on Todds Canopy, I
contacted Robbie Grove to inquire about a group
discount on his Aluminum Gear and Dual Piston
Wheel/Brake Sets. The gear saves 16 to 17lb vs. the
steel gear (verified by a -8 customer) - and looks
better to boot. Please see the Grove web site for
details www.groveaircraft.com.
I will delete these items from my Vans kits, its a
couple hundred dollars difference.
Robbie offered the following at a 10% discount, based
on 3 orders.
PN 1220-1 $1099.00 RV 8 Landing Gear Retrofit
Kit
PN 56-1 539.00 500 X 5 HP Wheel & Brake Assy
PN 5013 2 x 38.60 ea $ 77.20 500 X 5 Axles
PN 5710 4 x 3.00 ea $12.00 Spacers
PN 5510 2 x 11.00 ea $22.00 Axle Nuts
TOTAL $1749.20
10% Discount -174.92
TOTAL PRICE FOR ABOVE $1574.28
Grove Aircraft Company
1860-I Joe Crosson Drive
El Cajon, CA 92020
1-888-GEARLEG (432-7534) Toll-Free
1-619-562-3274 Fax
www.groveaircraft.com
robbie(at)groveaircraft.com technical engineer
teena(at)groveaircraft.com customer service
Please let me know if there are any other takers...
Thanks
Frank Dombroski
RV-8 One wing done, the other closing in. FB Fuse...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-8 Tailwheel Assembly Installation |
I have installed the tailwheel assembly and of course it isn't correct.
Using the method shown in Orndoff video of placing the level on each side of
the wheel axel mount I find that the mount has to be turned 13 degrees off
center to show level. The axel itself seems to line up with the fuselage
center line. Rotating the assembly until centered and level shows that the
hole through the 409 was off by a little under 1/16 ".
Looks like you know what too.
Question: Before I order a new tailwheel assembly (ouch) and wd-409 and
start over, are there alternative fixes and or suggestions?
Regards and Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV-8 Tailwheel Assembly Installation |
Vince:
I'm not sure you need to do anything. If I understand correctly what you've said,
you might be riding a little bit on one side of the tailwheel,
and maybe it'll wear out a little sooner than otherwise (maybe not), but
I wouldn't expect any ground handling problems.
Just one man's opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Final assembly
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent S. Himsl
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 11:36 PM
Subject: RV8-List: FW: RV-8 Tailwheel Assembly Installation
I have installed the tailwheel assembly and of course it isn't correct.
Using the method shown in Orndoff video of placing the level on each side of
the wheel axel mount I find that the mount has to be turned 13 degrees off
center to show level. The axel itself seems to line up with the fuselage
center line. Rotating the assembly until centered and level shows that the
hole through the 409 was off by a little under 1/16 ".
Looks like you know what too.
Question: Before I order a new tailwheel assembly (ouch) and wd-409 and
start over, are there alternative fixes and or suggestions?
Regards and Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
=
=
=
=
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Louisville Kentucky Builders |
Hello,
This is my first post so I hope I did it rite...
I was just woundering if anyone is building in the
Louisville Kentucky area? my neighbor and I are
getting ready to order and build a 7a and a 9a in
my garage and was wanting to get a support group
together close to home.
Thanks
Jeff Garrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Louisville Kentucky Builders |
Welcome to the list Jeff. This is one of the best support groups that you will
find. I have several hundred pictures that I have downloaded from the various
sites and they are all RV-8 photos showing something of interest.
It has been very helpful. Don't forget the electrical listing when you get there.
You can get a lot of help there too.
Howard
1/2 of RV-8 80188 Sloooow build
Working on wiring
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Systems?? |
All,
I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
$630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
has had good success with anything else?
I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
thought about this.
thanks
Dan Ward
81243
N417SN (reserved)
Firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Systems?? |
believe me...after "playing" with an lycoming exhaust for several days, the
vetterman (van's) is the ONLY way to go..it made it a pleasure to install..in
fact it was about the only thing that has NOT given me some sort of trouble
since the entire project began....by all means ..lay out the bucks ..you will
not regret it..
RV8A thinking andsaving for paint.
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
> time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
> decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
> $630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
> has had good success with anything else?
>
> I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
> mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
> thought about this.
>
> thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> N417SN (reserved)
> Firewall forward
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I am working with a local mfr who is designing a
stainless or titanium sys for the -8. It will be
several months until my QB fuse arrives and we finish
the sys. If you are in need now - no juy...
Regards
Frank
> From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems??
>
>
>
> All,
>
> I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system
> thats been around a long
> time with lots of patches and welding. After much
> soul searching, I have
> decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new
> exhaust. Vans has one for
> $630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was
> wondering if anyone
> has had good success with anything else?
>
> I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons
> and muffler shops have
> mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I
> ask if anyone has
> thought about this.
>
> thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243
> N417SN (reserved)
> Firewall forward
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Systems?? |
Dan:
My advice: buy the Vetterman exhaust from Van's. It's proven. It's a cinch
to install. You won't find anything cheaper that works and has a decent
service life.
You'll have lots of other fun things to think about in firewall forward
(like oil coolers, among others)...you don't need to reinvent the wheel on
exhaust systems.
Just one man's opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Final assembly
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Exhaust Systems??
>Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:29:45 -0400
>
>
>All,
>
>I have an old tripacer crossover exhaust system thats been around a long
>time with lots of patches and welding. After much soul searching, I have
>decided not to trust the old relic and buy a new exhaust. Vans has one for
>$630, which is alot for a couple of pipes, and I was wondering if anyone
>has had good success with anything else?
>
>I do want to stay with stainless for obvious reasons and muffler shops have
>mostly carbon steel, which will quickly rust out. I ask if anyone has
>thought about this.
>
>thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>81243
>N417SN (reserved)
>Firewall forward
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | AeroElectric-List: WEEKEND SEMINAR - Need list server relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
I used o participate in about a dozen list-server
activities but he e-mail burden became too much.
Matt Dralle graciously offered relief with his support
of the Aero-Electric List. I would sincerely appreciate
it if the folks who frequent the Aero-Electric List
could relay the following information to other amateur
built airplane list-servers on which they participate:
Thanks!
----- Electrical Systems Weekend Seminar -----------
The next weekend seminar we're presenting starts two
weeks from tomorrow, August 18, in Racine, WI.
Dee and I will be driving from Wichita and we'd
like a chance to meet many of you and talk about your
project.
We're meeting on the John H. Batten airport. Some
of you may be able to fly in daily and join us for
some down and dirty electro-speak. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Racine.html
for times, location and local hotel information.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------------
( "The Wright brothers flew right through the )
( smoke screen of impossibility." )
( Charles F. Kettering )
----------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)sympatico.ca> |
test
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Forward Bottom Skin Insulation |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am about to begin riviting the forward bottom skins on to fuselage of my
RV-8 and trying to decide if some kind of insulation could be installed
between floor and outer skins. I searched the arcives and did not find
anything about this. I know the plans call for using pro seal to seal the
skins and ribs but thought someone might have installed some kind of
lighweight foam insulation and if so was it worth it? Reply to list or to me
at edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com. Thanks:
PS If anyone is thinking of installing the alumunum gear, I bought mine
from Hammerhead. Fit but the gear legs are thicker and the steel mounting
brackets are much higher. They require some modifications to the skins and
the cross braces on the belly. Mine are also gun drilled for the brake
lines and that required some changes to mounting the brake lines. If anyone
needs more details contact me and I will explane the changes required.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City Fl/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Forward Bottom Skin Insulation |
We did not put insulation in - very very hot floor.
Went back and added it - as much as would fit, Huge improvement.
I am about to begin riviting the forward bottom skins on to fuselage of my
RV-8 and trying to decide if some kind of insulation could be installed
between floor and outer skins. I searched the arcives and did not find
anything about this. I know the plans call for using pro seal to seal the
skins and ribs but thought someone might have installed some kind of
lighweight foam insulation and if so was it worth it? Reply to list or to me
at edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com. Thanks:
PS If anyone is thinking of installing the alumunum gear, I bought mine
from Hammerhead. Fit but the gear legs are thicker and the steel mounting
brackets are much higher. They require some modifications to the skins and
the cross braces on the belly. Mine are also gun drilled for the brake
lines and that required some changes to mounting the brake lines. If anyone
needs more details contact me and I will explane the changes required.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City Fl/N366RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there any
need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in both.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin, RV8 tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Small things...
Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
thanks
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder? |
Kevin:
I built my plane with a 6" grinder. Never had a job where I wished I'd had
a larger one.
George Kilishek
>From: "Kevin Hanson" <kmhanson3(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: 6 or 8 inch bench grinder?
>Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:24:34 -0500
>
>
>Sears has a sale on bench grinders. I was planning on a 6 inch. Is there
>any need for an 8 inch for RV building? The Scotch Brite wheels come in
>both.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Kevin, RV8 tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Guys,
Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I saw
one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know until
now. Just starting. #841
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Jim,
I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a drawing,
please tell me.
romeo.victor@t-online.de
Stephan Servatius
# 80303
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Jim Nolan schrieb:
>
> Guys,
> Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I saw
> one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know until
> now. Just starting. #841
>
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> Warsaw, In.
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Guys:
I don't know of a design for adjustable rudder trim for an -8, but having
flown a variety of RVs I don't know why you'd want one. This is simply not
an airplane where rudder trim should be an issue in climb, descent or
cruise.
George Kilishek
N888GK final assembly
>From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Empennage
>Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:43:41 +0200
>
>Servatius)
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a
>drawing,
>please tell me.
>
>romeo.victor@t-online.de
>Stephan Servatius
># 80303
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>Jim Nolan schrieb:
> >
> > Guys,
> > Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I
>saw
> > one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know
>until
> > now. Just starting. #841
> >
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> > Warsaw, In.
> >
> >
>
>Stephan Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
I'd have to agree. In my TR182 I use the rudder trim frequently and expected
to miss in on my RV-8. In practice that has not been the case at all.
I do use the roll trim a good bit as fuel burns down.
Guys:
I don't know of a design for adjustable rudder trim for an -8, but having
flown a variety of RVs I don't know why you'd want one. This is simply not
an airplane where rudder trim should be an issue in climb, descent or
cruise.
George Kilishek
N888GK final assembly
>From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Empennage
>Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:43:41 +0200
>
>Servatius)
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>I am as well interested in a rudder trim. If you get information or a
>drawing,
>please tell me.
>
>romeo.victor@t-online.de
>Stephan Servatius
># 80303
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>Jim Nolan schrieb:
> >
> > Guys,
> > Where can I find a print for an adjustable rudder trim. I thought I
>saw
> > one on an eight but forget where or who had it. I didn't need to know
>until
> > now. Just starting. #841
> >
> > Jim Nolan
> > N444JN
> > Warsaw, In.
> >
> >
>
>Stephan Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal! |
Hi RV Listers!
Well, just back from Van's Homecoming BBQ and Fly-in up at the Aurora
Airport and in a word, wow. Below is a URL link to a web page I did on
the photos I took over the two days. There are multi-resolutions and
preview thumbnails for easy viewing.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/
Have a look and feel free to download any you'd like to keep or make
your screen backdrops.
If you haven't gone to a Homecoming before, or even if you have, I
highly recommend the trip. Very inspirational.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Finish Kit - #1763 - N442RV
Matronics EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: small questions |
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
It's noisy until fuel is flowing through it.
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Don't know what kind of system you have. My carbureted -320 has the accel
pump built into the carb. You mean primer? don't believe FI systems have
an accelerator pump. Anyone else know?
Bryan Jones -8
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
No accelerator pumps with FI systems - no reason for it as the change in
intake pressure caused by opening the throttle results in a near
instantaneous injection of the correct amount of fuel - the whole point of
the operation.
Also, FI's require a whole different breed of boost pump. I didn't note the
earlier parts of this, but just in case - you cannot run pumps designed for
carburetors (engine or boost) with a FI. The pressures are to low.
Subject: Re: RV8-List: small questions
>Facet boost pump is noisy, is this right?
It's noisy until fuel is flowing through it.
>Accellerator pump housing runs into the K&N Filter element, is this right?
Don't know what kind of system you have. My carbureted -320 has the accel
pump built into the carb. You mean primer? don't believe FI systems have
an accelerator pump. Anyone else know?
Bryan Jones -8
CFI, RV Transition Training
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal! |
Matt,
Great pics...
Larry K. Dysinger
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Van's Homecoming 2001 - A Photo Journal!
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:59:35 -0700
Hi RV Listers!
Well, just back from Van's Homecoming BBQ and Fly-in up at the Aurora
Airport and in a word, wow. Below is a URL link to a web page I did on
the photos I took over the two days. There are multi-resolutions and
preview thumbnails for easy viewing.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/VansHomeComing2001/
Have a look and feel free to download any you'd like to keep or make
your screen backdrops.
If you haven't gone to a Homecoming before, or even if you have, I
highly recommend the trip. Very inspirational.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Finish Kit - #1763 - N442RV
Matronics EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Munn, Mike" <mmunn(at)jajones.com> |
From the RV list, it seems that a Niagara or Stewart Warner is the way to
go, especially in warmer climates (Southern US). I am installing the
Niagara on the baffle behind the cylinder. Not yet done though, but soon.
Mike Munn
RV8 QB, engine installed, completing wiring.
Email: mmunn(at)jajones.com
-----Original Message-----
From: lorin l frank [mailto:llfrank(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 5:07 PM
To: Rv8 list
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from
Lycoming. My
question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat
exchanger) for
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for
"hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that
they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner
out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the
cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
My Niagra oil cooler goes on the aft side of the #4 cooling baffle. This
works well with oil temps generally around 185 degrees F. For pictures, see
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/oilcooler.html.
Jerry Carter
8A, 37 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
>
> We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
> question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
> the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
> weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
> Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
> Thanks,
> Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Lorin,
I asked a bunch of people as well as vendors (and rebuilders) of oil coolers
at Osh this year and the overwhelming concensus is to stay away from
positech. I am building an RV8A and putting in a Bart Lalonde 0-360. I plan
to use a Swewart Warner unit. I live in Phoenix, AZ and need all the margin
I can get. Bear in mind that this is a compilation of many conversations and
note collecting. I have never used either one in an airplane. I have used a
Stewart Warner as a mod on a Porsche 911S with excellent results.
Bill Christie
----- Original Message -----
From: lorin l frank <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8a
>
> We are doing an RV8a QB and are waiting for the engine from Lycoming. My
> question is what are people doing for an oil cooler (heat exchanger) for
> the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
> weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
> trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
> Air Parts
> Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
> Thanks,
> Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
I've been flying an -8 with an O-360 and the larger Positech cooler for two
Florida summers now, and have not had any problems at all. I put it on the
baffle, though it's a really tight fit. The thing's build like a tank, so I
can't imagine what "problem" anyone is having with it, unless it's cooling
performance. That being said, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick a different
brand if I were doing it all over.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
80587, N174KT (Flying 75hrs, FINALLY painted, installing Ellison and
Inverted oil)
______________________
the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
Air Parts
Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
Thanks,
Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward O'Connor" <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/02/01 |
Check out Van Doran site. He had a link to another builder with pictures
of an adjustable rudder trim. Can't remember the builders name who did the
pictures but he had a bunch of modifications. Von Doran's Web site is
listed in be builders group on VAn's web site. I have fabricated the parts
for my adjustable rudder and will be installing in about a month. There
are pictures of a Nav Aid instalation on the same site. I'm on road right
now and don't have my regular E-mail and web site index with mo or I could
tekk you more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Positech Oil Cooler |
I'll confirm Russel's comments re: the Positech Cooler being a tight fit on
the rear baffle of an O-360 in an RV-8. It fits, but requires some thought
and design and/or cut and try for the installation.
I've not flown it yet, so can't comment on cooling efficacy, but I'm happy
with the way the installation finally worked out.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Last .001%
>From: "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV8a
>Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:14:09 -0500
>
>
>I've been flying an -8 with an O-360 and the larger Positech cooler for two
>Florida summers now, and have not had any problems at all. I put it on the
>baffle, though it's a really tight fit. The thing's build like a tank, so
>I
>can't imagine what "problem" anyone is having with it, unless it's cooling
>performance. That being said, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick a different
>brand if I were doing it all over.
>
>Russell Duffy
>Navarre, FL
>80587, N174KT (Flying 75hrs, FINALLY painted, installing Ellison and
>Inverted oil)
>
>
>______________________
>the O-360 engine. Van's shows two positech units, one for "hot
>weather". I have heard from 2 of our local builders that they had
>trouble with the positech and changed to a Steward Warner out of Niagara
>Air Parts
>Also, any thoughts on installing on the firewall vs. the cowling intake.
>Thanks,
>Lorin Frank, Sacramento, CA 90% done, 60% to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
I wonder how a RV would look with 50 cal guns, and bomb racks...might
come in handy...HOPE NOT...seriously tho...has anyone put a belly tank
for gas on a RV?...
finished painting..almost
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
All,
I am installing canopy, and so far only thing shattered are my nerves. I
have drilled the rivet holes, and can forsee the problems holding the
canopy in alignment while drilling the canopy skirt. I would like to
proseal or RTV the canopy to the frame, and then locate holes for skirt.
When I finish rivet the skirt I'd like to proseal it on too. Has anyone
done this? Has anyone not done this?
Thanks
Dan Ward
RV8 N417SN
Fitting canopy, nose cowling, wheel pants, about half finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal canopy? |
on the first one I did the rivets...ugh!...crak!..on the next one I did the
rtv bit..I sanded the frame to bare metal, and rtv'd the canopy on
that....seemed to work fine...I then riveted the skirt on the frame, and ran
a fiberglass tape from the skirt to the plexiglas, and that's it...seems to
hold up well..the first one is flying now,with about 45hrs on it..so far no
complaints...seemed to pass the inspection...since I have done this a couple
more times, and it's worked out fine...good luck
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I am installing canopy, and so far only thing shattered are my nerves. I
> have drilled the rivet holes, and can forsee the problems holding the
> canopy in alignment while drilling the canopy skirt. I would like to
> proseal or RTV the canopy to the frame, and then locate holes for skirt.
> When I finish rivet the skirt I'd like to proseal it on too. Has anyone
> done this? Has anyone not done this?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan Ward
> RV8 N417SN
> Fitting canopy, nose cowling, wheel pants, about half finished.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal canopy? |
Dan:
I riveted my canopy per the plans and builder's manual. I endured much
angst and worry that I'd screw it up, but...it turned out to be easy and
everything was fine. The only slight negative that I can think of is that
the pop rivets that hold the skirt to the canopy frame required some extra
finishing to smooth everything off, but you'll have to do a lot of filling
and sanding on the fiberglass skirt anyway, so I'm not sure this is worth
worrying about.
Using proseal might work. Then again, after hundreds of hours and several
years in the hot sun it might possibly not be sufficient. The rivets have
been field tested and we know they work.
Just my experience/opinion.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Final .0001%
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Proseal canopy?
>Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:27:19 -0400
>
>
>All,
>
>I am installing canopy, and so far only thing shattered are my nerves. I
>have drilled the rivet holes, and can forsee the problems holding the
>canopy in alignment while drilling the canopy skirt. I would like to
>proseal or RTV the canopy to the frame, and then locate holes for skirt.
>When I finish rivet the skirt I'd like to proseal it on too. Has anyone
>done this? Has anyone not done this?
>
>Thanks
>
>Dan Ward
>RV8 N417SN
>Fitting canopy, nose cowling, wheel pants, about half finished.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pro Seal on Canopy |
I had used pro seal on the edge to water seal the canopy on my last RV, and
it worked just fine leaving a thin edge seal between the aluminum or FG and
the glass. Paint will not adhere.
Ron Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | does anyone know |
will the gear fairings for the RV6 fit on the RV8?...thanks...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: does anyone know |
No.
>From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: does anyone know
>Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 21:33:26 -0700
>
>
>will the gear fairings for the RV6 fit on the RV8?...thanks...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fitting?? |
I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
thoughts?
Thanks.
Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fitting?? |
On my RV-8 and two others of looked at during the building process, the fit
of the rear of the canopy skirt was consistent, and really bad. My guess is
that who ever is making these for Van's is simply unaware of the bad fit.
One local RV-8 builder removed the rear part of the skirt and did it in
aluminum.
I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
thoughts?
Thanks.
Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fitting?? |
Dan:
My canopy fit perfectly at the rear. I think it was a matter of blind luck,
because I know of several builders here in the Dallas area who had to split
and rebridge that area.
Do what you have to do.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Getting ready for airworthiness inspection
>From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt fitting??
>Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 14:52:41 -0400
>
>
>I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
>will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
>The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
>
>thoughts?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
>Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fitting?? |
It's the skirt everyone is having problems with.
> Dan:
>
> My canopy fit perfectly at the rear. I think it was a matter of blind
luck,
> because I know of several builders here in the Dallas area who had to
split
> and rebridge that area.
>
> Do what you have to do.
>
> George Kilishek
> N888GK
> Getting ready for airworthiness inspection
>
>
> >From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt fitting??
> >Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 14:52:41 -0400
> >
> >
> >I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like
it
> >will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
> >The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
> >
> >thoughts?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
> >Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fitting?? |
if you really want to work work work..leave it as it is....otherwise split it
in back...it's the only way I got mine to fit...sort-of...{:~)
N-82ME
TwoAviators wrote:
>
> I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
> will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
> The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
>
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
> Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fitting?? |
We have two RV-8's at my airport, with two different skirts. They obviously
came from different molds. My buddy's fit perfectly, but was very rough in
texture. Mine was smooth as silk, but fit like crap. I cut mine in three
places, and one side still fits like crap. Fortunately, it doesn't bother
me that much. Like someone said, it's luck of the draw.
Rusty
Navarre, FL
80587, N174KT, flying 75 hrs.
> I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
> will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
> The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
>
> thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R Colman" <ronincolman(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fitting?? |
Now that's pretty interesting. Mine (and the other's) are dead smooth -
maybe "pre-preg" They fit fine along the front 2/3 or so, then a gap.
Van's does so much so very well, it really makes the few flaws jump out -
like the RV-8 overheating problem the factory guys still contend does not
exist.
Ronin
N591RC @ 50+
We have two RV-8's at my airport, with two different skirts. They obviously
came from different molds. My buddy's fit perfectly, but was very rough in
texture. Mine was smooth as silk, but fit like crap. I cut mine in three
places, and one side still fits like crap. Fortunately, it doesn't bother
me that much. Like someone said, it's luck of the draw.
Rusty
Navarre, FL
80587, N174KT, flying 75 hrs.
> I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like it
> will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more fiberglass.
> The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
>
> thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fitting?? |
Right Randy. I meant to say that my skirt fit perfectly.
George
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt fitting??
>Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:28:01 -0700
>
>
>It's the skirt everyone is having problems with.
>
>
> > Dan:
> >
> > My canopy fit perfectly at the rear. I think it was a matter of blind
>luck,
> > because I know of several builders here in the Dallas area who had to
>split
> > and rebridge that area.
> >
> > Do what you have to do.
> >
> > George Kilishek
> > N888GK
> > Getting ready for airworthiness inspection
> >
> >
> > >From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt fitting??
> > >Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 14:52:41 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >I am beginning to fit the canopy skirt to my -8, and find it looks like
>it
> > >will need to be split in the rear and then bridged with more
>fiberglass.
> > >The tailgroup and wheel fairings fit fairly well.
> > >
> > >thoughts?
> > >
> > >Thanks.
> > >
> > >Dan RV8, N417SN reserved
> > >Engine running, fitting canopy and nose fairing last.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
| Subject: | RV Fly-In in Maryland |
RVers,
Come out and enjoy a nice fall get together of RV's on October
13th. Hosted by the MidAtl RV Wing, Check out Doug Reeves Site at...
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm or...
the MidATl RV Wing Site (message board) at....
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Mid-AtlRVwing/messages
Joe Czachorowski
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
Hello,
I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
fuselage back on it later.
As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
Thanks and regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig? |
Vince-
I threw the jig away early like you are contemplating. Worked out OK... I
had to do the bottom front skin and ribs while crouching/groveling (I had no
way to rotate it upside down again) but it wasn't too bad.
Matthew
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent S. Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: Finished RV8 Fuselage Jig?
Hello,
I am about to remove my RV8 from the fuselage jig for the first time as
called for in the plans. However the plans say I will be putting the
fuselage back on it later.
As I plan to mount a car engine stand to the firewall, as discussed here and
elsewhere, can I go ahead and get rid of the jig at this point?
Thanks and regards
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/07/01 |
I'm just getting started and I'm looking for some advise on priming. Zinc
chromate? or is something else better. Should I get in in a spray can, or
paint it on, or use the sprayer on my air compressor? Thanks
Jim Aylward
Westfield MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Email address change |
Good morning friends,
Please note my new email address is jack(at)IaJobs.com
Old address pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com will be valid through end of month
Jack
RV8, wings
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCOPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
Jack(at)IaJobs.com
IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net> |
I had the same question (as did everybody). It looks like the standard
is Veri-Prime, although some swear by other products. One thing about
this product is that it doesn't need to be as heavily applied as the
coats of zinc chromate that you're accostomed to seeing. Also, with so
many products out today, it's important that you get a good respirator
that's really designed for just that sort of thing. Ask the person you
buy the product from which one he recommends. Don't skimp on this item-
you'll be glad you didn't later. Also, be sure and use latex gloves and
full eye protection- not just safety glasses.
Happy priming!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
From http://www.ontariorvators.org, see
http://pub.alxnet.com/poll?id=2123902&q=view for the current results of
the question "What type of primer did you use/are you primarily using
during building? (not external)"
Phil
> I had the same question (as did everybody). It looks like the standard
> is Veri-Prime, although some swear by other products. One thing about
> this product is that it doesn't need to be as heavily applied as the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich pitch? |
Greetings,
I was wondering what pitch everyone is using on their O-360 powered -8's.
When I first ordered my prop, 83" was the recommendation. By the time it
was ready to be produced, 85" was what I got. After a year of flying the
85", and especially following the installation of an Ellison TBI and
LightSpeed ignition, I've found the 85" to be underpitched. Currently, I
can lean to a max RPM of 2720 at 12,500, so it's time to let Sensenich twist
it some more. I'll be getting repitched to an 87" next week. Anybody else
flying anything over an 85"?
Also, is anyone else going to Tracy Crook's Shady Bend fly-in later this
month? The other local RV-8 (Bob Hargrave) and I will be flying over on Sat
the 27th. Bob will be the one that looks depressed because I'm going to
outrun his expensive constant speed prop on the way over :-)
Fly-in info: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/invitation.html
Note- I don't believe they can accommodate the general flying population at
this strip due to parking limitations. The invitation is for RV's and
rotary powered aircraft. See the web site for details.
Russell Duffy
N174KT, 80587, 75 hours
Navarre, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich pitch? |
Russel
I have a 83 Sensenich on my O360 RV-8. The engine has higher compression
pistons and fuel injection etc. so that it produces about 200 horse power. I
can get about 2200 rpm static and I have to pull it back about an inch at
cruise to keep the rpm under redline. I am thinking about a repitch to 85 or
more and would like to know how it works for you. Could you please email me
after you have that done and let me know your results? Also what kind of
static rpm are you getting now with your 85? Do you need to pull it back at
cruise?
Does Sensenich say they can repitch the prop and does it then become
uncertified?
Thanx for the info
Chris Hukill
Helifoto(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chandler" <Chandler(at)arbbs.net> |
Hi Jim,
Hope I do this correctly, it's my first time. I'm a beginner as well,
currently working on dimpling the HS. I work for a corporate jet
manufactor and the only primer the paint department uses is Pratt
Lambert epoxy primer. So after a little research found the it is made by
Sherwin Williams Aerospace Division.So I called my local store and after
they made a few phone calls they tried to sell me a zinc chromate primer
which is a possible link to lung cancer. I've work at a few facilities
and they will not allow it to be used even in an aerosol can. They are
producing a zinc oxide primer, althought I haven't heard of it hazards
or its performance. I got the number to the aerospace division and
talked to a tech rep and he told me that the epoxy primers in his
opinion were the best for the application. The preparation process
should include alumiprep and alodine followed by epoxy primer. He said
that the self etching primers were worthless if you were wanting
corrosion preventive, which the alodine does. The process takes about
1minute for etch, rinse and 1min for alodine, rinse and air dry for
24hrs and then primer. Per the tech rep. after each part is prep with
scothbrite prior to etching. I believe I have all the part number's and
prices at work and will post them tommorrow. But of course all of this
is up to the builder, to prime or not to prime. If I'm going to spend
the time to do it, I want to do it right. I use that term loosely. Good
luck priming.
Forrest Chandler
AR
8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich pitch? |
Chris,
I'll certainly post the performance of my 87" pitch when I get it done and
tested. The plan is to have it installed on the 20th, and I'll certainly do
some initial testing then, and perhaps more later.
I do have to pull the power back for cruise at any altitude that doesn't
require oxygen, which is why I'm going ahead with the repitch. I'll loose a
bit of climb, but that isn't an issue with an RV at sea level. My best
measured cruise speed is 174 kts, which I calculated to be about 70% power
at the time. Since then, I've added a noticeable amount of power with the
Ellison TBI and Lightspeed ignition, but to be able to use it in cruise,
I'll need more pitch. BTW- electronic ignition is the BEST money you'll
ever spend on the engine. I'm expecting a 75% cruise speed in excess of 180
kts when I get the prop back.
As for static RPM, believe it or not, I've never measured this. It will
make an interesting before and after figure, so I'll try to check it this
weekend when I have someone in the back seat as ballast.
I don't believe there's a problem going from 83" to anything you'd want
(85"-87"), but you'd have to ask Sensenich to be sure. You won't have to
worry about "losing" the certification of the prop either, because they
aren't certified to start with. I believe "experimental" is stamped right on
the hub. These props were designed specifically for the RV series (thank you
Sensenich), because no certified spam product can be twisted to anything
close to the pitch we need. Also, be advised that Sensenich doesn't
recommend using their (or anyone else's) aluminum prop with any engine that
has been modified (high compression pistons) from a configuration that has
been specifically tested. I've seen them state this in public forums on a
few occasions. You'll have to decide how much of that is the lawyers wishes.
Rusty
Navarre, FL
N174KT- 75 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich pitch? |
Rusty
Thanx for the reply, and I'll be looking for your posting with the results. I
should probably contact Sensenich and ask them about the 9.2 to 1 pistons
that I have. They are 0320 H2AD stock lycoming pistons, and the engine was
built by Aerosport Power ,who have an impeccable reputation amongst RV
builders for reliability.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | Sensenich pitch? |
tks chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Helifoto(at)aol.com [mailto:Helifoto(at)aol.com]
> Sent: 9. oktober 2001 18:59
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Sensenich pitch?
>
>
>
> Rusty
> Thanx for the reply, and I'll be looking for your posting
> with the results. I
> should probably contact Sensenich and ask them about the 9.2
> to 1 pistons
> that I have. They are 0320 H2AD stock lycoming pistons, and
> the engine was
> built by Aerosport Power ,who have an impeccable reputation
> amongst RV
> builders for reliability.
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jared Boone" <jboone(at)earfeast.com> |
, ,
| Subject: | For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price lowered!) |
[OK, I really just want to get rid of my RV-8 HS parts, so I've dropped the
price to "ridiculously low". Read on...]
When the RV-7 came out, I decided to convert my RV-8 empennage to an RV-7,
leaving me with a mostly-completed RV-8 horizontal stabilizer. I need more
space in my garage as I get ready for the wing kit, so...
I'm selling my RV-8 HS parts as a set for $75.00 (not including shipping).
I'd prefer to sell to someone close enough to Beaverton, OR that I won't
have to figure out how to ship it, but it's no big deal to ship the stuff
either. According to Van's current prices, the set of raw parts is worth
about $450 new, so this is a pretty good deal, methinks. If you think
otherwise, make me an offer!
Most everything has already been cut, drilled, bent, countersunk, dimpled,
fluted to the point where priming and riveting the skeleton would be next.
This includes cut, drilled, and bent HS-610/810, 814, and HS-602s.
Workmanship is good -- definitely airworthy.
Here's a description of what I've got:
2 x HS-404 RIB-ROOT FWD
2 x HS-405 RIB-ROOT MAIN
4 x HS-412PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
4 x HS-413PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
2 x HS-602 SPAR - FWD
2 x HS-603PP HORIZ. REAR SPAR
2 x HS-606 RIB-TIP
2 x HS-607 RIB-CENTER FWD
2 x HS-608 RIB-CENTER MAIN
2 x HS-609PP PP FLANGE STRIPS
1 x AA6-125X3/4X3/4X17 AL. ANGLE HS-610/810
2 x HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN
1 x HS-814 PRE-CUT UNIT
1 x 8 PLANS EMP SET EMPENNAGE PLANS SET
Parts not included because I reused them on my RV-7 kit:
2 x HS-411BPP-PC HINGE BRACKET
1 x VA-146 FLANGE BEARING
Assorted rivets and bolts
Contact me at jboone(at)earfeast.com or (503) 466-2877 for more information.
- Jared Boone
RV-7 Empennage
Beaverton, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
We have the wings on and the Chief built panel in our RV8a QB. We are
pretty much just waiting for the engine from Lycoming. We are having
some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
allot of metal.
What have others done, do balancing balls work?
The panel has a GPS but I would still like to have a compass for backup
on cross country trips.
Does anyone know of a good source vinyl stripping for the outside of the
plane in place of painting on the strips?
Thanks, Lorin in Sacramento CA
NX54LF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price lowered!) |
Jared:
I am very interested in buying your Horizontal Stab. Kit. But i live in Kentucky.
If we could figure out how to ship it I would buy it tomorrow. Al Grajek. algrajek(at)msn.com
858-361-9460
----- Original Message -----
From: Jared Boone
roups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV8-List: For Sale: RV-8 Horizontal Stabilizer kit (price lowered!)
[OK, I really just want to get rid of my RV-8 HS parts, so I've dropped the
price to "ridiculously low". Read on...]
When the RV-7 came out, I decided to convert my RV-8 empennage to an RV-7,
leaving me with a mostly-completed RV-8 horizontal stabilizer. I need more
space in my garage as I get ready for the wing kit, so...
I'm selling my RV-8 HS parts as a set for $75.00 (not including shipping).
I'd prefer to sell to someone close enough to Beaverton, OR that I won't
have to figure out how to ship it, but it's no big deal to ship the stuff
either. According to Van's current prices, the set of raw parts is worth
about $450 new, so this is a pretty good deal, methinks. If you think
otherwise, make me an offer!
Most everything has already been cut, drilled, bent, countersunk, dimpled,
fluted to the point where priming and riveting the skeleton would be next.
This includes cut, drilled, and bent HS-610/810, 814, and HS-602s.
Workmanship is good -- definitely airworthy.
Here's a description of what I've got:
2 x HS-404 RIB-ROOT FWD
2 x HS-405 RIB-ROOT MAIN
4 x HS-412PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
4 x HS-413PP-PC HINGE BRACKET
2 x HS-602 SPAR - FWD
2 x HS-603PP HORIZ. REAR SPAR
2 x HS-606 RIB-TIP
2 x HS-607 RIB-CENTER FWD
2 x HS-608 RIB-CENTER MAIN
2 x HS-609PP PP FLANGE STRIPS
1 x AA6-125X3/4X3/4X17 AL. ANGLE HS-610/810
2 x HS-801PP HORIZ STAB SKIN
1 x HS-814 PRE-CUT UNIT
1 x 8 PLANS EMP SET EMPENNAGE PLANS SET
Parts not included because I reused them on my RV-7 kit:
2 x HS-411BPP-PC HINGE BRACKET
1 x VA-146 FLANGE BEARING
Assorted rivets and bolts
Contact me at jboone(at)earfeast.com or (503) 466-2877 for more information.
- Jared Boone
RV-7 Empennage
Beaverton, OR
=
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
> We are having
> some trouble finding a spot to mount the compass on the top of the
> panel. Due to the instruments in the panel and their magnetic field we
> could not mount in the panel itself and on top of the panel is near
> allot of metal.
> What have others done, do balancing balls work?
I mounted mine on the glareshield in my RV-8. The built-in compass
compensation screws worked well and I was able to swing it within a degree
on all headings. Be sure and turn everything on and close your canopy when
swinging it. Closing my canopy caused a 5 degree error and turning on the
electri gyros caused another 5 degree error. Running the engine made do
difference at all.
You might want to consider having your roll bar deguassed if it's not
permanently mounted... good insurance.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, 133 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/11/01 |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/12/2001 08:04:00 AM
LP Aero plastics makes a compass mount block that attaches to the
windshield. They are relatively inexpensive and they may provide a
solution- normally they are used in Cessna aircraft. They list for 30.00 ,
LP can be reached at 800-957-2376.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rv-8 Parking Brake |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
be appreciated.
Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The directions
are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear bow
of the canopy near the track.
Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The pictures
might save you 900 words or more.
Howard Cochran
Mooresville, NC
1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
In a message dated 10/13/01 12:52:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com writes:
> I bought the Matco Parking brake valve Vans sells in his Catalog. It comes
> with no directions or suggetions on how and where to mount. Since my
> specality is copying or improving on what others have already spent untold
> hours figuring out, I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or
> descritptions on how/where to mount and how to run the control cable to set
> Brakes. I have an idea in mind but am sure someone has done it better.
> Reply on or off line. I only get the digest of the List the day after. I
> also searched the archives and only found posts that some individules had
> installed the valve but no descriptions on how they did it. Any help would
> be appreciated.
>
> Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
> Working on Rudder Peddles/Brakes
>
>
Please reply on list, I am having a similar dilema. I planned on mounting my
valve at the bottom center of the rear bulkhead for the forward baggage
compartment. I cant't figure how to run the brake control cable from this
location due to the non-adjustable throw of the parking brake arm.
Rick McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question |
Hi Howard,
I just trimmed my canopy also. About half way through cutting the canopy I
re-read the instructions and found that I missed the part that says to use
the dimensions on the drawing 44. The only dimension that I found was the
one that tells where to put the front edge of the canopy. I think it is 3
1/4" from the rear baggage wall. Check that. I noticed that once I put the
front edge there it seemed to line up better. OF COURSE I FOUND THAT RIGHT
AFTER I CUT THE REAR PORTION OFF. Mine turned out to be fine but it sure was
close. I did have to cut a hole bunch off the front to bring it down to the
canopy bow.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <W4PPN(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Question
>
> I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
>
> On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
directions
> are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
> quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
>
> My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
> edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on
the
> 819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
> trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
> have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
> Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
> plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
bow
> of the canopy near the track.
>
> Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The
pictures
> might save you 900 words or more.
>
> Howard Cochran
> Mooresville, NC
> 1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
> Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question |
Howard:
Sounds like you might need to shift the canopy forward or backwards on the
frame.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Just about ready for inspection
>From: W4PPN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Question
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 04:08:02 EDT
>
>
>I have checked the archives and did not find an answer.
>
>On the RV-8 Canopy there are some factory marked trim lines. The
>directions
>are very specific as not to cut there to start with, but leave about a
>quarter inch and to cut slowly and take your time. All well and good.
>
>My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
>edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
>819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
>trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
>have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
>Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
>plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
>bow
>of the canopy near the track.
>
>Does anyone have any sage advice or better yet some pictures. The pictures
>might save you 900 words or more.
>
>Howard Cochran
>Mooresville, NC
>1/2 of 80188 Slooooow Build
>Canopy fitting, Panel wiring, fuel lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
Hi Howard,
Thankfully, it's been a couple years since I did this, but here's what I
remember. First, my canopy didn't have any factory marks, but I've heard
they're pretty close if you have them. I don't recall anything critical
about the amount of overhang that you leave over the canopy frame rail
(819?- the mostly horizontal tube you rivet the canopy to). My advice would
be to leave as much overhang as you can (at least an inch) until you get the
canopy laying down properly everywhere. Once everything is in place, you
can decide how much overhang you want to leave permanently. Originally, I
think I left about 3/4 inch beyond the bottom of the tube, but noticed a few
areas that had tiny little cracks forming at the edges of the plexi. This
was probably from handling the canopy so much during the fitting. Just
before I installed the canopy for good, I trimmed another 1/4 inch or so
from the areas with the tiny cracks, to get rid of the affected area. That
left me with about a half inch overhang in most places.
If you want some pictures, drop me a mailing address off-list, and I'll send
you a CD with everything I have. I'll open this offer up to anyone else on
the list as well, and I'll do it for the low-low price of nothing. You just
have to promise not to sue me if you copy something I did and find out it's
a bad idea :-)
Russell Duffy
80587, N174KT (flying 75 hrs)
Navarre, FL
My question is that when you are finished cutting, how far does the bottom
edge of the canopy extend down below the upper most piece of tubing on the
819 frame? (I think it is the 819). Right now my pardner and I have it
trimed so that the factory mark is at the bottom of this tube and we still
have about an inch and a half of spece above the canopy bow on the frame.
Also on the rear of the canopy it appears that we need to cut more of the
plexi away than the factory mark to get the plexi to lay against the rear
bow
of the canopy near the track.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
I installed the Matco parking brake valve on my RV8. I mounted it to the
bulkhead were the lines would normally mount, that is on centerline, just aft
of the pedals. The valve is easily reachable so no cable is required. One
point of interest, the ports on the valve are spaced too close together to
install a standard AN822 fitting, which means you have to use swivel
fittings. These are available from Earls, but cost twenty some bucks each,
and you need four of them.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Hello,
I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
spar flange.
Problem:
The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple. I
countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those who
have been here.
Regards and Thanks
Vince Himsl
RV8 fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Parking Brake RV-8 |
| From: | "Ed O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
Thanks to all who posted their solutions to my brake question. I'v decided
to mount the parking brake valve on a plate where the lines normally
junctioned but going to fabricate a mounting plate bent back toward front of
the airplane. This will put the valve on an angle instead of pointing
straight down. Then using two 90 degree connectors on the input side, it
should keep the valve from sticking so far down below the brace it attaches
to. Then a 90 degree and a forty five degree on the output side. May try
to get the swival type so I can use two 90 degree on the output. I'm also
going to use the smaller flex lines that Heitman mentioned on his Web site
from Pegasus Racing. The smaller lines look better as I thought the ones
Vans sent were awful big. In addition, if it all works right, I'll be able
to reach the lever with my hand and won't need a cable. If I can't reach
it, then I'll maby attach an extension arm to it or rig a cable some how.
Have to get it installed and get my seats made and sit in it to see the
geometry. Will have digital pictures after I'm finished. At the rate I'm
going, maby next month some time. Thanks again
Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange |
Vince:
If I recall correctly, I just lightly machine countersunk the spar flange.
The skin dimples won't fit perfectly inside, but after riveting nobody but
you will know, and it won't affect the strength of the joint.
George Kilishek
N888GK
Waiting for A/W inspection
>From: "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8 LIST"
>Subject: RV8-List: Countersinking the F-804 Wing spar Flange
>Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 10:08:32 -0700
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I am attaching the skins to the fuselage but have hit a snag where the
>bottom F-822, F-826, and F-827 skins intersect the F-804 center section.
>
>I have dimpled all the skins which requires that I countersink the F-804
>spar flange.
>
>Problem:
>
>The spar flange is not thick enough to do a proper countersink. I
>countersink by using a gage made out of scrap aluminum with a -4 dimple. I
>countersink till the gage lies flat against the flange.
>
>If I do that here, I enlarge the hole to point where cleco will not hold.
>
>Guess I am stumped. Would appreciate any help or suggestions from those
>who
>have been here.
>
>Regards and Thanks
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 fuselage
>Moscow, ID USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
Rick
That is where I mounted mine. Can reach it without a cable. May put a chain
on it.
Stan Mehrhoff
Mounting the wings at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Tank fit problem |
Good morning all,
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar and
leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
tank. Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
let's say 25% and try again. Also sent question to Van's.
Thanks for the help!
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | Tank fit problem |
First of all, make sure you used a #8 dimple die for a "screw" and not a
"rivet". Dimple dies come in both flavors and the one for the rivet is
slightly bigger (ie makes a bigger dimple then the one for the screw) then
the one for the screw.
If you're sure you got the right dimple die, test the depth of your spar
countersinks with a test dimple on a small piece of .025. You'll probably
find that you'll have to countersink a little more.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Textor [mailto:jack(at)IaJobs.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Tank fit problem
Good morning all,
After dimpling tank edges the skin does not lay down flush with the spar and
leading edge. The fit prior to dimpling was perfect. Have machine
countersunk the spar to the correct depth and used # 8 dimple die on the
tank. Would it be acceptable to file down the underside of the dimple,
let's say 25% and try again. Also sent question to Van's.
Thanks for the help!
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309
515-243-7687 phone
515-243-3350 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-8 Parking Brake |
here is a photo of my installation of the Matco parking brake valve on my RV8.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks on tank fit ??? |
Thanks to all that responded to my poor tank fit after dimpling, lots of
good ideas. Van's said don't be too concerned with countersinking a little
further. But.... Last night I actually installed some screws and I will be
danged, everything seemed to fit well.
Thanks,
Jack
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL, Thanks Jack
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone used Pratt and Lambert's latex wash primer? It's an acrylic-zinc
phosphate primer, and was recommended (by the guy selling it) as safe and
effective. I am concerned about the "safe" part, and I like the idea of a
water base.
Jim Aylward
empanage
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone used Pratt and Lambert's latex wash primer? It's an acrylic-zinc
phosphate primer, and was recommended (by the guy selling it) as safe and
effective. I am concerned about the "safe" part, and I like the idea of a
water base.
Jim Aylward
empanage
jimayl(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | NEW Matronics Email List Feature! Browse Current List |
Messages!
Dear Listers,
I have just finished building an all new Email List Web Browsing feature
for the Matronics Email Lists. The new system allows you to use your web
browser to view all of the current Email List messages. The system's
indexes display all of the current List messages sorted by Subject, Author,
Date, or Thread. Clicking on the URL links on these index pages will open
another "Viewing Window" where the messages will be displayed.
The format of the index pages and message viewing window are consistent
with the existing Matronics Archive Search Engine and should be familiar to
everyone. The messages available on this new List Browsing Feature span
the previous 7 days of email for the given List. Each day the oldest day's
messages are replaced with the current day's messages. The web pages are
updated every 30 minutes with any new messages that are posted to the List
during that time frame.
Please have a look at the new Utility and let me know what you think! For
ease of use, I've added a link to the new system on each of the List
trailers that are appended to each List email message.
I hope you will find the new system useful and also find it to be a handy
companion to the Archive Search Engine.
The new Email Browsing Utility can be found at the following URL:
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From here, you can select any of the available Email Lists.
Best regards,
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Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets |
Hi Group,
While riveting my leading edge to the spar, the longer 5's, 6's and 7's 1/8
inch standard rivets would not set before destroying the head. I was using
about a 2-pound bar and a 2x gun set at full power and tape on the heads.
Very frustrating! I purchased a 3x and made a 4-5 pound bar out of some
scrap steel and it really helped. I can now set the rivets in a second or
two before they have a chance to work harden. Just wanted to pass the tip
on.
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
DSM
PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
www.IaJobs.com
jack(at)IaJobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets |
Jack,
I absolutely agree. I started out with a 2X gun and about half way through
the first wing, Avery had a special deal at Copperstate and I bought a 3X. I
was amazed how easier it was to set the 1/8th rivets with just a couple
hits.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Textor <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Setting 1/8 inch standard rivets
>
> Hi Group,
> While riveting my leading edge to the spar, the longer 5's, 6's and 7's
1/8
> inch standard rivets would not set before destroying the head. I was
using
> about a 2-pound bar and a 2x gun set at full power and tape on the heads.
> Very frustrating! I purchased a 3x and made a 4-5 pound bar out of some
> scrap steel and it really helped. I can now set the rivets in a second or
> two before they have a chance to work harden. Just wanted to pass the tip
> on.
> Jack Textor
> RV8, wings
> DSM
>
> PLEASE NOTE NEW WEB AND EMAIL
> www.IaJobs.com
> jack(at)IaJobs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Web Server Upgraded! Blazingly Fast Archive Searches!! |
Dear Listers,
As of this weekend, the Matronics Email List Web Server is now running on a
brand new hardware platform and the latest version of RedHat Linux! The
new hardware includes Dual 1.7GHz Xeon Processors, a 400MHz FSB
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Controller, and an Ultra 160 36GB 15,000 RPM Seagate Cheetah hard
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In a variety of benchmark tests against the previous server, the new system
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Please enjoy the new system performance and don't forget, the Annual Email
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Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv82(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 87" report |
Greetings,
As you may recall, my -8 has an O-360 with Ellison TBI and Lightspeed
ignition, and I recently sent my 85" Sensenich prop off for a repitch to
87". Now that the prop is back on the plane, and I've flown it some, here
are the less-than-complete results.
Static RPM with the 85" was 2100 at sea level, and the 87" prop is 2025 RPM.
Best cruise speed with the 85" was 174 kts at 8500 ft which was RPM limited.
Best cruise at 8500 with the 87" prop was 179 kts. This is still RPM
limited. I was able to produce 2730 RPM at 8500 with the 87" prop. This
test was done in formation with another RV-8, that's equipped with a 180 hp
engine (plus Lightspeed ignition) and a CS prop. The results- I can outrun
him by 3-4 kts! We just won't talk about climb :-)
This past weekend, I traveled to the Mecca of rotary powered aircraft (AKA
Tracy Crooks fly-in), which was a 3 hour round trip with about a 40 kt wind
at altitude. I ran as hard as I could, and saw 217 kts ground speed on the
way there. This was at 9500 ft and about 2680 RPM. I'm still not able to
run full throttle without redlining the engine, but there's certainly more
power being used to turn the same RPM, because I'm burning about one GPH
more fuel than before. The return trip... Ugh, 135-150 kts at various
altitudes.
I haven't done any official climb testing, but noticed that I was still
getting 1400 FPM at 100 kts, 3000 ft, solo with full fuel. That's still
pretty good in my book, though it's nothing compared to what some CS props
can get.
Bottom line- it was a good change, and I don't feel like 87" is over pitched
by any definition. If you're using these numbers for comparison, make sure
you remember that the Lightspeed ignition and Ellison probably add 10-15 HP,
so your results may vary. Then again, get a Lightspeed, because that's where
the majority of the HP comes from, and it's the best mod you can make.
That's all folks. Now I need to find a project to install a rotary engine
in. Anyone know of a nice cheap RV-3 project? While I'm dreaming, make it
close to Florida :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. White" <rascalf16(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 87" report |
I'm new on the list having had my RV8 for just over a week now. I have
always wanted one and traded my Mooney in. Just never had time to build.
I have a 85" Sensinich prop on my plane and find that at cruise altitudes, I
cannot run but about 60% power to keep it under 2700 rpm. Have been
considering having the prop repitched to 87 also. Good to hear your
comments. However, my prop was repitched once by the previous builder/owner
and I've heard that the props can only be repitched one time. Is this true?
Maybe I could get something for a trade-in if I decided to go that route?
Thanks for the good info on your experience. Some people have told me just
to run it at 2800-2900 rpm but I would rather accept the 5-10mph slower
cruise than put the additional stress on the engine. Besides, at 60% power,
I'm really conserving fuel too.
On another note. The oil pressure line going from the engine to the
transducer mounted on the firewall is a small copper line with a compression
fitting on the engine end. It has one loop in it before connecting to the
transducer mounted on the firewall. Comming on the ramp last week that line
broke at the compression fitting and oil pressure went to zero, of course.
Shut the engine down immediatlely but still lost about two qts of oil on the
ramp. It was an easy fix but I know this will probably happen again if I
keep this set up. I read the construction manual and it recommends a
flexible hose which I'm going to get. Any recommendations? I found a hose
shop locally that can get the hose for me in a couple of days. I just need
to let them know the type fittings on either end. I'm going to take the
copper one off and take it to them. Going to do the same thing for the fuel
pressure line too. BTW, they say the hose is made by aeroquip too. I
forgot to ask them if I can get a restrictor in the hose as Van's suggest.
If not, I think I can fabricate some type of restrictor to prevent a massive
amount of oil loss if the situation ever happens again. I was amazed how
much oil came out of that little 1/8" hose in such a short time.
Oh well, thanks for any suggestions ahead of time and looking forward to
being apart of this list.
Fly Safe and Check Six!
Johnny White
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy
Subject: RV8-List: Sensenich 87" report
Greetings,
As you may recall, my -8 has an O-360 with Ellison TBI and Lightspeed
ignition, and I recently sent my 85" Sensenich prop off for a repitch to
87". Now that the prop is back on the plane, and I've flown it some, here
are the less-than-complete results.
Static RPM with the 85" was 2100 at sea level, and the 87" prop is 2025 RPM.
Best cruise speed with the 85" was 174 kts at 8500 ft which was RPM limited.
Best cruise at 8500 with the 87" prop was 179 kts. This is still RPM
limited. I was able to produce 2730 RPM at 8500 with the 87" prop. This
test was done in formation with another RV-8, that's equipped with a 180 hp
engine (plus Lightspeed ignition) and a CS prop. The results- I can outrun
him by 3-4 kts! We just won't talk about climb :-)
This past weekend, I traveled to the Mecca of rotary powered aircraft (AKA
Tracy Crooks fly-in), which was a 3 hour round trip with about a 40 kt wind
at altitude. I ran as hard as I could, and saw 217 kts ground speed on the
way there. This was at 9500 ft and about 2680 RPM. I'm still not able to
run full throttle without redlining the engine, but there's certainly more
power being used to turn the same RPM, because I'm burning about one GPH
more fuel than before. The return trip... Ugh, 135-150 kts at various
altitudes.
I haven't done any official climb testing, but noticed that I was still
getting 1400 FPM at 100 kts, 3000 ft, solo with full fuel. That's still
pretty good in my book, though it's nothing compared to what some CS props
can get.
Bottom line- it was a good change, and I don't feel like 87" is over pitched
by any definition. If you're using these numbers for comparison, make sure
you remember that the Lightspeed ignition and Ellison probably add 10-15 HP,
so your results may vary. Then again, get a Lightspeed, because that's where
the majority of the HP comes from, and it's the best mod you can make.
That's all folks. Now I need to find a project to install a rotary engine
in. Anyone know of a nice cheap RV-3 project? While I'm dreaming, make it
close to Florida :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 87" report |
Johnny and all,
This is a good subject that I felt I should address:
>>However, my prop was repitched once by the previous builder/owner
and I've heard that the props can only be repitched one time. Is this true?
Actually this is not true. We allow for a total of 8 inches that a propeller
can be pitched. All 72FM series propellers are manufactured as 83 pitches.
If you receive an 85 pitch from us, it has been raised 2 inches. If you send
us an 83 or an 85 (as Rusty did) and we raise it to an 87, that would be the
same as ordering an 87 brand new from us, because we are still pitching up 4
inches from the original forging pitch. At that point we have gone up 4
inches of total pitch. We could conceivably repitch that same propeller back
down to an 83 which would give us the final 8 total inches that we allow. I
hope that my explanation makes sense and clears that up.
On a specific note to Johnny: I have to assume that either your engine is
producing more then 180 HP or you have some tach error. I would bet on the
tach error. Before pitching the propeller, I would recommend having the tach
calibrated. Most local FBO's or prop shops can do this very easily. Don't be
surprised if they tell you that are showing a lower RPM then actual. This is
always a good practice for everyone to adhere to.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | capacitance fuel level senders |
I am getting ready to build the fuel tanks for my RV8 and plan on installing
a flop tube to allow inverted flight. To eliminate any possible
interference with a float sender, capacitance senders seem like the logical
choice.
Can anyone recommend a source for a high quality sender that will work in
the RV8's tanks? Many seem to require access through the top of the tank
which obviously won't work. I haven't decided on which manufacturer's
gauges I will use, will the sender limit this or is a capacitance sender a
universal signal?
Thanks
Tracy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitance fuel level senders |
Why don't you just order the capacitance sender kit from Vans for $50 or so?
It's complete and designed for your tanks. You can see what they look like
and how they are installed here. http://bmnellis.com/CapacitiveSender.htm
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> I am getting ready to build the fuel tanks for my RV8 and plan on
installing
> a flop tube to allow inverted flight. To eliminate any possible
> interference with a float sender, capacitance senders seem like the
logical
> choice.
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for a high quality sender that will work in
> the RV8's tanks? Many seem to require access through the top of the tank
> which obviously won't work. I haven't decided on which manufacturer's
> gauges I will use, will the sender limit this or is a capacitance sender a
> universal signal?
>
>
> Thanks
> Tracy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Cool Graph on Archive Search Times... |
Hi Listers,
Below is a link to an interesting graph of the current Archive Search
Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ) search times done on the 113Mb
RV-List Archive file. The graph shows searches back through about
Thursday. Based on the search times (shown in the Y axis), see if you
can pick out the point at which the new Web Server hardware was
installed... Impressive? :-)
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/RV-ListArchiveSearchTimes.jpg
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
EMail List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: capacitance fuel level senders |
I can't answer your question on the senders, however I would like to mention
something that you may consider. I intended to install flop tubes in my
Quickbuild 8, but because the tanks came completed, I didn't want to open
them up to modify them for the flop tubes. Although I have an inverted oil
system, and fuel injection, I didn't think that the type of aerobatics that I
would be doing would require any sustained inverted or negative Gs, and the
fuel in the lines would provide adequate inverted fuel supply, without flop
tubes. During the flight testing period I did everything I could do to try
to make the engine quit while inverted,during maneuvers, and after returning
to positive G flight, and never got a cough. This included rolling 360s,
hammerheads, and sustained inverted flight(maybe 10 second). The sustained
inverted flight was limited by the high forward stick pressure that was
required to keep the nose up, as this wing doesn't like to be upside down.
These tests were accomplished feeding from both tanks(one at a time). Unless
your intending to compete in advanced, or go after some sustained inverted
record, I see no need for flop tubes, at least with my engine,fuel system
configuration.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
please.
Dan Ward
81243 almost there
N417SN reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill of sale? |
As for obtaining the BOS just call Van's they will mail it to you. As for
the rest of the question, Boy, It all depends on Where you live, how long
you have had the kit, was it delivered or will call. There is no real answer
until you answer a bunch of questions. I suggest that you contact your State
Board of Equalization. They will answer all your questions. If you do obtain
information from them that would indicate you don't owe taxes or penalties
for not paying up front, make sure to get it in writing. Each employee may
have a different interpretation of the situation you describe to them.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
P.S. dodged the sales tax bullet
----- Original Message -----
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Bill of sale?
>
> Good news and bad news. I am almost finished (3-4 weeks) fitting wings.
> What is the procedure for getting a bill of sale from Vans, etc etc. Am I
> going to get hit with a giant tax bill or something like that? Thoughts
> please.
>
> Dan Ward
> 81243 almost there
> N417SN reserved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net> (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | Photo of Lyle Hefel's Control Stick and Throttle Quadrant |
Please see the photo at the new Matronics List Photo Share for Lyle Hefel's
Throttle Quadrant at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Public/kdbrv8r@charter.net/
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2001 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Forums sponsored here. Your contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
This year, I've made some substantial improvements to the Lists and the
supporting systems. These upgrades are focused on making your experience
here faster, more enjoyable, and most importantly, informative. Here is a
partial list of improvements that I've made on the systems this year:
o Upgraded Web Server
- Minimum 6X increase in performance *
- Tons more high performance disk space and memory!
- Increased availability and reliability - UPS Backup
- Improved support for > 130,000 Archive Searches each year!
* See http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/RV-SearchTime.jpg
o Email System Disk Subsystem Upgrade
- More storage and faster access times
- Faster redistribution of List Messages
- Processed over 45,000 List messages in 2001; 50,000 in 2000!
o All new List Browse Feature *
- Browse the last seven day's worth of List Messages
- Quick access to current threads
- Sort messages by Thread, Date, Subject, or Author
* See http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
o All new Photo Share Feature * &
- Simply email your photos and files to share
- Scanned for viruses
- Automatic Web Page Generation
- Includes descriptions and poster information
* See http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
& Officially to be announced soon
o Transition To High Performance Internet Service Provider
- Improved reliability
- Better access from most sites on the Internet
- Improved throughput
These are just some of the more visible improvements I've implemented this
year. I'm always working to improve the behind the scenes operation of the
Lists. I've built an elaborate system of message text and source address
filtering mechanisms to assure that you only receive text data in the
message, spam is nearly non-existent, computer viruses are never propagated
through the Lists, and that message post redistribution is smooth and
trouble free.
This year has seen a lot of improvements in the Email List experience. If
you enjoy the Forums here and make use of the many features, won't you take
a moment and make a Contribution to support the continued operation and
maintenance? Please note there is no advertising funding on the
Lists. You don't see annoying banner ads in the Email messages or on any
of the web pages. This just seems more friendly to me and makes the List
experience just that much more personal.
The operation of these Lists is supported *completely* through the
donations of List Members just like you!
Please take a moment to support your Lists by making a Secure Credit Card
Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or you may send a personal check to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their Contribution and for
their continued support over the past year!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Well it's about that time of year again....... |
Al Mojzisik misspelled the contribution page URL. "contributoin" is spelled:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
:-)
Matt
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>
>RV-Listers,
>
>I would just like to point out that it's November first and experienced
>list members know what that means. It's time for our annual fund raiser for
>Matt for providing us with this fabulous List so that we can get all the
>help we need with our RV projects. Sometimes that help is technical and
>sometimes it's mental. Most of us can't deny that the list has some value
>to them. Well now is the time to tell Matt what the list means to you. Make
>a donation to the Matronics List Services fund. It's purely voluntary. You
>decide what it's worth to you. You just have to click on the link below and
>you can make your donation via credit card. Or you can send Matt a check
>at the address below. I will be making posts from time to time to remind
>you of the continuing fund raiser and Matt will post a list of all donors
>after the drive is over November 30th. I won't be tugging at your heart
>strings this year and I won't be trying to shame you into donating. I'm
>just going to leave it up to you to do the right thing for your
>situation. Thanks for reading......... and let's make this a success for
>Matt he's been working hard and making some great improvements. AL
>
>SSL Secure Web: http://www.matronics.com/contributoin
>
>USMail: Matronics
>c/o Matt Dralle
>PO Box 347
>Livermore CA 94551
>
>
>Al Mojzisik
>InAir Instruments, LLC
>Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
>AOA and SO much more!
>http://www.liftreserve.com
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New List Photos Available |
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jtgarner@shentel.net
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matronics Email List Photo Share <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is now available at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fasching@amigo.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 wings delay |
Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
Jonathan Weiswasser
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Vokac" <glennrv8(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 wings delay |
Jonathan:
I ordered my -8 wings this past June and received them in about 7 weeks. The
16 week time frame Van's gave you has got to be an error. Give them a call.
Glenn Vokac
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Weiswasser" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV8-List: rv-8 wings delay
>
> Almost finished with the elevators/trim tabs, I decided, given the 8
> week delay time as listed on Van's web site, to order the wings. On
> ordering, I was told an 8 week wait was what I should expect. Just got
> the receipt in the mail ...FEB 10, 2002!!!! Has anyone else had to wait
> 16 weeks for wings? should I order the fuse now too?!
>
> Jonathan Weiswasser
> Elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Off to a Slow Start... |
Hi Listers,
First I want to take everyone that has taken a minute already to make a
Contribution to support the Email Lists in 2001! I also really appreciate
all the kind words I've been receiving regarding the Lists and how much
they mean to everyone. The testimonial means a lot to me and makes the
many hours working on the system worth it!! Later in the month, I'll share
a few of the kind words with the Lists.
I've added a nifty new Bar Graph Thermometer to the message trailer that
gives an up-to-the-minute percentage status of how many members have made a
Contribution during 2001! It was a fun piece of code to write and
hopefully will be a fun way to watch the Fund Raiser's Progress this year!
As I've said in the past, the Lists are supported *completely* through your
generous Contributions during the Fund Raiser and throughout the
year. This includes all of the system and connectivity upgrades we seen,
as well as makes the many hours I spend each month keeping the systems
running even more enjoyable ;-).
Won't you take a moment and make a Contribution right now to support your
Lists? Its fast and easy with the On-line, SSL secure Credit Card system,
or by direct US-Mailing a check. For complete information, please see the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your Generous Contribution!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
PS - Don't forget to monitor the Fund Raiser Bar Graph below!
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV6-List(at)matronics.com, RV7-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kdbrv8r@charter.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying - Fund Raiser Continues... |
Dear Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is going well and I want to thank everyone that
has already so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists! Below
are some of the great comments and feedback members have been including
along with their Contributions.
Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and
upgrade of your Lists? Its fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web Site or
by simply sending a personal check. Complete information can be found at
Contribution web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
A give a special Thank You to all of those that have already contributed so
far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
Great information site.
- Edward S.
This is the first thing I look at every day.
- Ralph M.
The new List option is WONDERFUL!
- Kenyon B.
...new Search Software is absolutely fantastic!!
- Bruce K.
...essential to my enjoyment of RV building and flying.
- Douglas W.
Great List!
- Randall H.
...an invaluable service!
- Carlos S.
...incredible service to the industry!
- Alex M.
Building wouldn't be the same without the "Great List".
- Tom E.
...has helped the building process immensely.
- Hap S.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Have You Tried the New List Browse Feature?? |
Hi Listers,
I've been getting a LOT of very positive feedback on the new Email List
Browsing feature I added to the suite of List services a couple of weeks
ago. A number of List members have written to say that they love the new
List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages
throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait
for the Digest issue to come out.
The List Browse Function allows you to use your web browser to view the
current 7 day's worth of List messages for the give List. The indexes are
updated every 30 minutes with any new messages that have been posted. You
can sort all of the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and
easily track and find current threads.
You can check out the New List Browse Feature by going to the following URL
and clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Please remember that November is List Fund Raiser month!! The continued
operation and upgrade of the Email Lists are _entirely_ supported by YOUR
Contributions and support. You'll never see annoying, flashing banner ads,
or other forms of commercialism on these Lists. Just people sharing
information, data, and stories about your favorite topic, plain (plane?)
and simple.
If you enjoy the Lists and all of the services here, won't you take moment
and make a quick Contribution? It fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web
site with your Visa or MasterCard. Or, you can also send a personal check
to the address listed below.
SSL Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
USMail: Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Don't forget that the "List of Contributors" will be coming out in just a
few short weeks! Don't you want to make sure you're name is on it?
I would like to wish a special "Thank You" to everyone that has made a
Contribution so far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Free Copy of Van's New "THE RV STORY" Video! |
Hey Listers!
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy Gold of The Builder's
Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is donating a FREE COPY of the
new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS) to any Email List Member
making a Contribution of $50 or more!
To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following
information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you
Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check
via the USMail:
Van's RV Story Video Offer
$50 or Greater Contributor
[your name]
[your shipping address]
[your City, State and Zip Code]
If you've already made a Contribution in 2001 of $50 or more and would like
to receive the video, please drop me an email ( dralle(at)matronics.com ) and
include the information shown above with the words "Video Offer" in the
Subject line.
Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available
in about 8 weeks.
I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very
generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The
Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look (
http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of
interesting, informative, and exceptionally useful books and videos on his
site. Please have a look!
Again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a
Contribution so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Your Contributions
make all of the Lists and Services found here possible - period.
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Updated Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV6-List(at)matronics.com, RV7-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
An Update to the Email List Photo Share below is available:
Subject: Fuselage Roller
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kdbrv8r@charter.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What They're Saying... |
Hi Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is currently underway and lot's of people have
been making their Contribution and saying a lot of very nice things about
the Lists and what they're daily-dose of Forum means to them! I've
included a few more of the Lister comments below.
Won't you take a moment to support your Lists this month? Its fast and
easy by making a Secure Credit Card Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
For Complete information on the upgrades and improvements the Lists and
servers have undergone this year, have a look at this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113171908?KEYS=asdfasdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=4?SERIAL=1942094803?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Here's few more of the comments I've been receiving about what the Lists
mean to its members:
======================
Not only a great way to help each other out, it's been
a wonderful way to meet new friends. - Fred H.
The List is invaluable to me...
- Russell W.
I absolutely love your Lists...
- Scott C.
...you are tying all the builders together.
- David A.
The Lists continue to be an invaluable source of
information. - Jeff O.
I look forward to reading my Email every day...
- Harvey S.
They are invaluable resources to builders of all
skill levels. - Kevin H.
...another year of excellent service.
- Terry W.
Way cool setup.
- Chuck R.
...source of information, inspiration, support,
and camaraderie. - Carlos S.
I'd be lost without them...
- Jeff O.
======================
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Hi Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st
I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support
the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a
minute to show their appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of
Contributors? As a number of people have pointed out, the List seems at
least, if not a whole lot more, valuable as a building/flying/recreating
tool as a typical your magazine subscription. We won't even talk about a
newsstand price... :-)
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to
support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa or M/C on the SSL Secure
Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
!! Don't forget !!
Andy Gold of the Builder's Book Store ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) has
generously donated a FREE copy of Van's new "The RV Story" video to anyone
making a Contribution of $50 or more to support the Lists. For complete
information on the _awesome_ offer, please see this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113629625?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=23392130806?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
To make sure you get your video, be sure to follow the instructions at the
URL above carefully!
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution
thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support
that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a
little comment about how the Lists have helped you! I love to feel the
love... :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Michael Brown... |
Hi Listers,
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael Brown of Brown
Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has generously
offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making Contributions of
$30 or more this year!
Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for
the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure
Credit Card Contribution Web Site at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings
attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site
or Catalog."
The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List
Contribution and is according to the following:
$100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate!
or
$30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to:
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com
and include the following information:
1) Subject Line: Tool Offer
2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25)
3) [Your Name]
4) [Your Mailing Address]
5) [Your City, State Zip]
** Please only use the email address shown above (
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate!
*** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for
the Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks.
I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this
wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a
look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own
it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools.
And finally, I would like to thank everyone that has already made a
Contribution in this year's Fund Raiser! Its YOUR support that keeps these
Lists running and NOT ADVERTISING and FLASHING BANNER ADS...
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
"Aaron Hughston"
Posting for a friend
For Sale
1) completed RV-8 Tail Kit #1000 Asking $1400
2) RMI u-Encoder and u-Monitor. Both are assembled and tested. Comes
with EGT & CHT probes and the gimbaled Compass attachment. Asking
$2591 for both.
Location is So. Cal.
Contact Aaron Hughston @ vne200(at)hotmail.com
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Can You Say...? |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting a ton great comments on what the Lists mean to its
members and I've included a few of them below. I'm sure _most_ of you can
echo one or more of these sentiments to the tune of a nice List
Contribution... :-)
Just one more week until I post the 2001 List of Contributors! Won't you
support the continued operation of these Lists by making a Contribution
today and assure your place on the upcoming Contributor List? I'm sure
your friends will be checking for your name on the LOC... ;-)
SSL Secure Web Visa and MasterCard Contributions:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Personal Check via the US Mail:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
I want to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution this
year! YOU make these Lists possible!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
===========================================================================
Can't live without my List everyday!
- John B.
Information you can't get anywhere else.
- George D.
...one of the finest List sites on the Internet.
- Dennis S.
This List has saved my bacon more than once!
- Larry H.
Really invaluable service for a novice builder.
- John B.
...got some useful help from the List.
- Rocky S.
A valuable resource.
- Dennis N.
This List is a Super resource...
- Dwight F.
...couldn't have gotten this far without the
resources on the List.
- Jerry C.
Great service to us builders...
- Ronald M.
...someday we'll all meet in RV Heaven. Hey,
how come there isn't an "RV-Heaven" List?
- Louis W.
The info I've gleaned from the List has saved
me several thousand dollars...
- Kevin H.
...the only International, Interesting, Up-to-date,
List with the best search engine ever!
- Hans L.
...check it ever day so I don't miss anything.
- Jim B.
Great List!
- Douglas G.
This List has saved me a few times already...
- Thomas R.
...part of my morning wake up reading.
- Dwight F.
...helped my make my plane better, safer, better
looking, and built it quicker.
- Kevin H.
Have bought many items from the info the List gives.
- Jim B.
You meet the nicest people here.
- George D.
Informative, Amusing, Entertaining...
- John B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Don't Miss The Video... |
Hey Listers!
Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy
Gold of The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is
donating a FREE COPY of the new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS)
to any List Member making a Contribution of $50 or more!
To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following
information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you
Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check
via the USMail:
Van's RV Story Video Offer
$50 or Greater Contributor
[your name]
[your shipping address]
[your City, State and Zip Code]
If you've already made a Contribution of $50 or more during the 2001 Fund
Raiser and would still like to receive the video, please drop me an email (
dralle(at)matronics.com ) and include the information shown above with the
following Subject Line:
Subject: Video Offer
Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available
in about 8 weeks.
I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very
generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The
Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look (
http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of
interesting, informative, and exceptionally useful books and videos on his
site. Please have a look!
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution
so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Just a few more days until I send
out the List of Contributors for 2001. Make your Contribution today to
make sure your name is on the LOC!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Brown Tool Gift Certificate Reminder... |
Hi Listers,
Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael
Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has
generously offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making
Contributions of $30 or more this year!
Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for
the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure
Credit Card Contribution Web Site at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings
attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site
or Catalog."
The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List
Contribution and is according to the following:
$100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate!
or
$30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to:
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com
and include the following information:
1) Subject Line: Tool Offer
2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25)
3) [Your Name]
4) [Your Mailing Address]
5) [Your City, State Zip]
** Please only use the email address shown above (
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate!
*** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for
the Gift Certificate! But, you have to follow the instructions above to
receive it!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks.
I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this
wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a
look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own
it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools.
I would like to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution in this
year's Fund Raiser!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Contributors Down By 25%... |
Dear Listers,
First I want to thank everyone that has already so generously made a
Contribution toward this year 2001 List Fund Raiser. It is your support
that makes these Lists possible.
Since there are only a couple more days until the official end of this
year's drive, I want to share some statistics regarding this and previous
Fund Raiser percentages. In years past, the percentage of members making a
Contribution to support the Lists has typically been right around 23% of
the total List population. This year, however, you'll note from the
Contribution Meter that we're only at a little over 16% for some
reason. This is down by roughly 7%, and translates into about a *30%
decrease* in participation this year!
I'm hoping that everyone is just waiting until the very last minute to make
their Contribution this year, and that the needle on the Contribution Meter
will still creep up to the normal 23% in the next few days! Saturday or
Sunday I will be posting the 2001 List of Contributors, so you'll want to
heat up that Contribution Web Site right away to make sure your name is on
the 2001 LOC!!
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Listers,
A couple List Members have asked if the Lists are "in trouble financially"
and wanted to know if this is why I was having a Fund Raiser. It got to
thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also
take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide
a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a great amount of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
new List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of
use is outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth
of messages online for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew who where
building RVs. It has grown into nearly 40 different aviation-related Email
Lists and an associated web site that receives over 500,000 hits each
month!! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value
in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing
and improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Free Stuff Reminder... |
Dear Listers,
Don't forget that you can receive a free copy of Van's new Video, "The RV
Story" with a $50 or greater contribution this year, or a $10 Gift
Certificate from Brown Tool for a $30 or greater contribution or a $25 Gift
Certificate for a $100 contribution. Below are two URLs for complete
information on the two Offers. Please follow the respective instructions
*carefully*.
Van's Video Offer Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5781141?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09092616692?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Brown Aviation Tool Gift Certificate Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5838463?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09080216166?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
I want to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore and Michael Brown of
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for their generous offers in support the
Lists this year!! Thank you, guys!
I'd like to thank everyone that has already made a generous Contribution in
support of the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Listers,
Below are some of the comments I've received just this week alone from
members along with their Contributions to support the Lists! What can I
say? Wow. I really appreciate the kind words and extremely positive
feedback and I would encourage you to read over a few of comments below. I
think they really say a mouthful...
The last couple of days have seen a huge increase in support!! Thank you
to all that have Contributed and to those that have rallied support for the
Lists! Since the response has been so wonderful recently, I plan to delay
the posting of the 2001 List of Contributors a few days to assure that
everyone will be included!
Won't you make your Contribution today to support the Lists?
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
------------------------------------------
Thank you to everyone for the kind words and support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
======== Some Great Comments on What The Lists Mean to its Members ==========
...great source of information, education,
relaxation, frustration, and socialization.
- John H.
Can't imagine what it would be like building
with out the Lists...
- Steven E.
Look forward to the list every day.
- Parker T.
I really enjoy reading the banter...
- Wesley H.
...enjoy the patter on construction tips and
possible problem areas.
- Richard N.
Couldn't have built my RV-4 without the List
and archives!!
- Warren M.
I have found the list to be a great help,
especially for a first time builder.
- Peter D.
I thoroughly enjoy the List.
- Larry B.
The List is a great resource.
- Dennis K.
The list is great entertainment.
- Gary Z.
Can't say enough about the good information
that I have received from reading the List.
- Robert C.
...it's the best!
- Steve F.
I'm addicted to the List!
- Rodney B.
The list has been a wonderful resource of
knowledge.
- Doug B.
As a first time builder, the lists have
been my most important source of information.
- James V.
It [read the List] is the first thing I do
every day is see what's new.
- Billie F.
The information available through the List
has made my flying safer...
- Dave R.
I get much more information about my plane
from this List than from all of my aviation
magazines combined.
- Roger H.
I love the list!!!!
- Ken L.
Much better value than a magazine subscription.
- Ted M.
...found it very useful.
- Allan J.
...this list has been a great service to me.
- Peter F.
I cannot express just how USEFUL the Lists are.
- Geoff T.
...a tremendous help to my RV-8 project and
a way to meet some of the best people going.
- Steve G.
The List is invaluable, and the best I've
ever seen.
- Ed C.
Like another family for many of us.
- John H.
The lists have saved a bunch of calls to
Van's for guidance.
- James V.
I think I'm addicted...
- Terry C.
Love it!
- David W.
The information really helps...
- Jim P.
...I find [it] very informative.
- Real D.
...List keeps me motivated... - Cliff M.
The exchange of information is really helpful...
- M.N.
Lots of great info on the List.
- Larry D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Buick Aluminum Block
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tbird@ptsi.net/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> |
Couple of questions.
1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
lead and the mag contact?
2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
Dan
s/n 81243
Dang near there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wil Ramsey" <wilr(at)strato.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what the heck? |
Yes, without the fuse on the output side a short on the other side between
fuse and alt. would leave your system unprotected.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: RV8-List: what the heck?
>
> Couple of questions.
>
> 1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
> the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
> lead and the mag contact?
>
> 2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
> voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
> diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
>
> Dan
> s/n 81243
> Dang near there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what the heck? |
Is the engine grounded?
>From: "Wil Ramsey" <wilr(at)strato.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: what the heck?
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:25:08 -0500
>
>
>Yes, without the fuse on the output side a short on the other side between
>fuse and alt. would leave your system unprotected.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: what the heck?
>
>
> >
> > Couple of questions.
> >
> > 1. My "P" leads show grounded when the mag switch is turned off. However
> > the engine keeps running. Thoughts? Maybe poor connection between the p
> > lead and the mag contact?
> >
> > 2. I was planning to put a fuse, and toggle switch between the buss and
> > voltage regulator to turn off the alternator. I am also seeing in some
> > diagrams a 30 amp fuse in the output side too. Do I need to do that?
> >
> > Dan
> > s/n 81243
> > Dang near there.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what the heck? |
Regarding your mag P-lead issue... If you're using Bendix mags (S-20 type
anyway), check to see that the lead is actually touching the contact inside
the mag. You may have to bend the spring contact up to touch the lead end
that threads into the mag housing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Helifoto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fused alternator output |
The requirement for a fused output depends upon the type of alternator/
voltage regulator that you are using.
The internally regulated 40 amp automotive alternator that I am using has
overcurrent protection as a function of the integral voltage regulator, that
acts the same as a 40 amp fuse, hence no additional protection is required on
the OUTPUT side. The INPUT side however requires a fused 5 amp feed.
Chris Hukill
flying RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV6-List(at)matronics.com, RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com,
RV9-List(at)matronics.com, Homebuilt-List(at)matronics.com,
Zenith-List(at)matronics.com, Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com,
Kolb-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Portable Bench Power Tool Cart
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kdbrv8r@charter.net.12.06.2001/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
and numbers later next week.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Way to go Stan!!
Congratulations
cheers
Todd
>
>Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
>and numbers later next week.
>
>Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
Congratulations. Be a little bit late with my 80303. Hope to be airborne in
2002.
Stephan Servatius
RV 8
Germany
N188rv(at)aol.com schrieb:
>
> Flew RV-8 #80072 for the first time today. Flew great. Will forward pictures
> and numbers later next week.
>
> Stan Mehrhoff
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Photo Share Main Index Page - The Detail You Asked For... |
Hi Listers!
I've been noticing a lot of people having fun with the new Email List Photo
and File Share feature and I've seen a great many hits on the various
member pages.
A number of you wrote to say that some additional topic data on the Main
Photo Share Index page would certainly be helpful and I would have to agree.
It took a little programming, and it was a job retrofitting to all of the
older Shares, but I think you'll be pleased with the outcome! I've added
Poster Name, Photo Share Subject, and Target Email List data to the Main
Index. Clicking on a Subject text opens a new window with the Photo Share
and the thumbnails.
Have a look and feel free to submit your photos for sharing! The
instructions are at the top of the Main Photo Share Index Page.
The URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Enjoy!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Howard Cochran ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: RV-8 Rear Stick w/ "S" Bend
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/W4PPN@aol.com.12.11.2001/index.html
---------------------------------
EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
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| Subject: | [ Al Mojzisik ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Fiberglass Plenum
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/prober@iwaynet.net.12.11.2001/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: Wing Jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fablef@bellsouth.net.12.11.2001/index.html
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o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
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| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
RV7-List(at)matronics.com, RV8-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Subject: 160th F-16/RV Pilots
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.12.11.2001/index.html
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o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
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| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [ PLEASE READ ] : Matronics Network Upgrade Mon. 12/17/01 |
Listers,
According to my ISP, Speakeasy, they will be doing some sort of "backbone
upgrade" Monday, 12/17/01. Their message doesn't mention whether or not
this will impact connectivity for any length of time. I wanted everyone to
know that there might be a time when access to the Matronics Web Server and
Email Lists might be unavailable. If there's a problem, I'll post a
message from a different email address with details.
Bottom line: Hopefully nobody will notice...
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Spenner <spenner(at)viavale.com.br> |
| Subject: | The entire risk as to the quality. |
Should this software prove defective, you and not the author assume the entire
cost of any service and/or repair. The author shall not be held liable for any
loss of data, loss of revenue or any other direct or indirect damage or claims
caused by this software package.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Paul Imhof ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul Imhof
Subject: Miss America
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Paul_Imhof@Dell.com.12.20.2001/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)strato.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02 |
Happy New Year.
I am build and 8A with 0-320 Lyc and a constant speed prop. Has anyone had
experience with this combination, was wondering if it is still a good idea
to put the battery in back to off set the weight of the CS?
Thanks,
Wil Ramsey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/03/02 |
I have one I am building with the 160hp and C/S prop...with batt. on
firewall...and have had one flying with this combo....no problem here...
Wil Ramsey wrote:
>
> Happy New Year.
>
> I am build and 8A with 0-320 Lyc and a constant speed prop. Has anyone had
> experience with this combination, was wondering if it is still a good idea
> to put the battery in back to off set the weight of the CS?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wil Ramsey
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Alex Peterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Alex Peterson
Subject: VM11120A Vacuum switch
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/alexpeterson@usjet.net.01.06.2002/index.html
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
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o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator B Leads |
What are you guys using for circuit protection for your alternator B
leads and what size wire?
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hoggwild(at)swbell.net |
looking for a project that someone had to quit on, preferably a
quickbuild
rv-8 or partially started kit..
please email or call
Bill Phillips
501-944-4357
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Thermo Acoustic Blanket |
Hello All,
I am on the "homestretch" of my RV-8 project and will be installing
insulation in various areas of the cockpit to both insulate and reduce
noise. The material that I am going to use is manufactured by Orcon, a
supplier to commercial aircraft manufacturers and is identical to that
used to insulate their fuselages. It is a fiberglass-type with both
sides covered by a high-tech material that prevents the insulation from
giving you "the fiber itch" and also provides some degree of fire
protection for a short period of time.
The factory was kind enough to provide me with enough material to
experiment on the best way to fashion the insulation during the project
and that's my next task. As with so many others that have gone before me
and made cottage industries out of small aspects of the aircraft
building "adventure", I have a question for you: are there any RV-8
builders that would be interested in purchasing an insulation package
for their project? As I've said, I'm not sure how the final product
would look, but I am thinking that it would be a number of individual
numbered pieces each sized for their area and possibly held secure with
Velcro tape. Of course the area for the back-seater would be covered by
the floor panels and I envision either cloth side covers or super
lightweight aerospace hardcover material for the sidewalls (your choice,
of course-I'm just the insulation guy).
The price? I'm not sure yet depending upon time and materials. I'm just
trying to gage interest. Maybe around a hundred bucks or so?-Just a
guess. I DO know that after flying around in the back seat of my buddy's
RV-8 that any help on the cold-soak issue would be welcome.
If you're at all interested, send me a note and I'll keep you advised of
what I find and my progress. Thanks for your time.
Bill Sanford
N511SF
bsanford(at)silverlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage tip |
Before you rip apart and toss your fuselage packing crate, check drawing
42 lower left corner. There you see the wood temporary floors you will
need later when you are finishing up the fuselage.
What you can do is take the 3/8 thick packing board with the paper
backing and sandwich it together using liquid nails to get the 3/4 you
need for the temporary floors. Let dry then cut.
Saves you some bucks on the cost of 3/4 inch plywood and saves you an
hour or so going to get it. One of the 4x8 sheets in nice condition
should do it. You can pick the best sides to show. The paper backing
actually will help when you or whoever can fit is sliding around inside.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Canoe (finally!)
Moscow, ID 83843
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Injected fuel filters |
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Injected fuel filters |
Ed,
Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the entire
AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
Besides Airflow Performance,
Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
spill it everywhere.
Thanks,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Injected fuel filters |
Hi Jim,
Please tell me why it is important to fit an additional fuel filter and
not just a gascolator before the electric injection pump? I have only
the gascolator and thereafter the pump. Is that wrong?
Stephan Servatius
RV8
Germany
Jim Norman schrieb:
>
>
> Ed,
> Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit
> just fine. I put
> my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I
> did put the entire
> AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than
> the filter.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Ed Perry
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
>
>
> Besides Airflow Performance,
>
> Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine"
> that will fit in
> the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is
> no filter
> currently available besides theirs that will run
> reliably. Paper filters
> will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too
> fine. They
> recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the
> fuel pump. My
> problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I
> imagine the
> smell of fuel being there for some time after I change
> the filter and
> spill it everywhere.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
>
>
> =================
> Contributions of
> other form
> =================
> latest messages.
> List members.
> =================
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> =================
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Injected fuel filters |
Hi Jim,
I have not installed the wings yet and am concerned about 2 things with the
AFP filters. 1) I was not sure how to access the filters in the wings, is
there enough room between the wings and fuselage to get the required
wrenches in there, If so can you estimate the distance between the fuselage
and first wing rib/fuel tank? 2) Is cost...If I put one AFP in each wing I
am close to $300. Granted it is probably the best method but I have also
found an Aeromotive Filter that has a 100 micron filter that is 11/4"
diameter and 3" long and rated for fuel injection, for $79 each.
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
> Ed,
> Why not put the AFP filter in the wing root? It will fit just fine. I put
> my AFP filter on the firewall (inside a cool box), but I did put the
entire
> AFP fuel pump in the wing root.... its a LOT bigger than the filter.
>
> jim
> Tampa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Perry
> To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Injected fuel filters
>
>
> Besides Airflow Performance,
>
> Has anybody run a fuel filter for an "injected engine" that will fit in
> the wing root and had success. Airflow says that there is no filter
> currently available besides theirs that will run reliably. Paper filters
> will swell and they say that gascolator screens are too fine. They
> recommend a 125 micron screen for the inlet prior to the fuel pump. My
> problem is that I don't want the filter in the cockpit. I imagine the
> smell of fuel being there for some time after I change the filter and
> spill it everywhere.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Perry
> eperry(at)san.rr.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HiSigns1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/15/02 |
Put it in the firewall
Bud Newhouse
finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Prull <sprull(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/13/02 |
Bill,
I have a completed empennage (except for the fiberglass tip attachment).
Its for sale along with the serial number, manuals, and documentation. I
have lots of digital photos of the project.
Steve
Bend, OR
541-383-8277
>looking for a project that someone had to quit on, preferably a
>quickbuild
>rv-8 or partially started kit..
>
>
>please email or call
>Bill Phillips
>501-944-4357
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Centurian222(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 01/14/02 |
Bill: Thanks for the post. I'd be interested, so please keep me in the
loop. I'm a ways off but I'm aggregating pieces of info here and there for
the right time. Thx. Sid
Svanlaningham(at)cfl.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesTSherry(at)cs.com |
Hi, I would be interested in an insulation kit for my RV-8 QB. It is a great
idea and thanks for the effort of trying first!! I just started the wings.
Question: Does the WD-421 need any lubricant on the brass bushing. I reamed
it out and it rotates very freely. I was just wondering what the effect of
metal on metal would have after prolonged use. Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder,
CO
December 25, 2000 - January 21, 2002
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ab