RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ad
September 20, 2002 - February 22, 2003
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Kit For Sale |
PS. I live on Long Island NY so I might drive down to
pick it up.
Rick
--- Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially
> finished with superb
> workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought
> another guys project in
> order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing
> kit since I have a QB
> kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all
> parts are included.
> Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will
> sell for $2900 + shipping.
> I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the
> materials to build it.
> Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Canopy skirts |
I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem where
the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
others have done to deal with this.
Thanks,
Ron
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Halkett <brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron,
Don't you have that thing flying yet? :-)
I had to trim both the al. (f-821??) and the
fiberglass skirt. I don't remember having to remove
any rivets?? You should be able to trim the skirt
almost all the way back to back to the canopy frame on
each side.
If you want e-mail me off-line and I'll e-mail you
some pics.
Brian Halkett
N184BH - 215hrs
Current RV of the Week
--- "van Bladeren, Ron" wrote:
>
>
> I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to
> the frame and everything
> seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an
> interference problem where
> the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft
> trailing edge of the top
> forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt
> overlapped the top skin
> but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to
> close it again, the skirt
> and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie
> on the same plane)
> preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2".
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin
> forward about 1/2" (up to the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last
> topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or
> the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and
> was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> RV-8A
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron:
I had exactly the same interference issue and solved it by trimming the
bottom of the canopy skirt in the area of the interference. Works fine and
looks fine.
George Kilishek
N888GK
90 hours
>From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:47:07 -0700
>
>
>I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
>seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
>where
>the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
>forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
>but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
>and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
>preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
>to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
>roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
>Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
>wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
>others have done to deal with this.
>Thanks,
>Ron
>RV-8A
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Canopy skirts |
Ron:
I faced the same problem you did and elected to trim back the canopy skirt
instead of trimming the 821 panel. It worked out OK but in retrospect I should
have cut the panel and left the skirt intact. The reason is just aesthetics,
but your suggestion is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Bill Marvel
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Canopy skirts |
Thanks George. I thought about trimming the skirt but then it wouldn't be
inline with the leading edge of the canopy bow. That's why I'm leaning
towards trimming the top skin aft edge since it protrudes about 1" aft of
the windscreen/roll bar edge. After trimming, it would then line up with
the aft edge of the forward side skin.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally and George [mailto:aeronut58(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
Ron:
I had exactly the same interference issue and solved it by trimming the
bottom of the canopy skirt in the area of the interference. Works fine and
looks fine.
George Kilishek
N888GK
90 hours
>From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:47:07 -0700
>
>
>I've got the canopy skirts drilled and clecoed to the frame and everything
>seems to fit pretty good. However, I'm having an interference problem
>where
>the front leading edge of the skirts meet the aft trailing edge of the top
>forward fuselage skin. During fitting, the skirt overlapped the top skin
>but when I slide the canopy aft and then try to close it again, the skirt
>and the skin butt up to each other (since they lie on the same plane)
>preventing the canopy from closing the last 1/2". The obvious solution is
>to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to the
>roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
>Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
>wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
>others have done to deal with this.
>Thanks,
>Ron
>RV-8A
>
>
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Canopy skirts |
Thanks Bill (again!). That's what I'll do.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Marvel [mailto:bmarvel(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A Canopy skirts
Ron:
I faced the same problem you did and elected to trim back the canopy skirt
instead of trimming the 821 panel. It worked out OK but in retrospect I
should
have cut the panel and left the skirt intact. The reason is just
aesthetics,
but your suggestion is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Bill Marvel
> The obvious solution is
> to trim the aft edge of the top fuselage skin forward about 1/2" (up to
the
> roll bar ribs) but that will eliminate the last topskin-to-longeron rivet.
> Doesn't seem like a big deal losing that rivet or the extra material but
> wanted to be sure I'm not overlooking something and was wondering what
> others have done to deal with this.
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
Want to add smoke to my RV8 project. Anyone have a name of a quality
tank/system builder?
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | 200 bhp wood propeller |
can someone recommend a wood propeller for my 200 bhp rv-8 ??
want cruise propeller.
have 72 " margie warnkee propeller today- but pitch too fine and runs at
2950 rpm and 160+ kts
appreciate help
regards terje kobro
norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Rv's in Italy or France? |
I will be in Italy and France the last part of November, any RV flyers there?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200 bhp wood propeller |
To eliminate guess work, I would call the closest propeller manufacturer
near you and either have them make something for you or at least tell you
what you need. Since you started with a 72 " margie warnkee I would call
them and give them the performance numbers form the prop you tried, and
they can recommend one that will work best.
>
>
>can someone recommend a wood propeller for my 200 bhp rv-8 ??
>want cruise propeller.
>have 72 " margie warnkee propeller today- but pitch too fine and runs at
>2950 rpm and 160+ kts
>
>appreciate help
>
>regards terje kobro
>norway
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rv's in Italy or France? |
I will be in Italy and France the last part of November, any RV flyers there?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Scott, contact Van's. They will provide a list of RV folks in Italy and
France, I know there are some in france as I checked this myself 4 yrs ago
prior to a trip there. Unfortunately, I did not have time to look anyone up.
Andy Johnson, N808JH res.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesTSherry(at)cs.com (by way of Matronics Technical Support <support(at)matronics.com>) |
Hey Guys, I am installing a strobe power supply unit on each wingtip. Has
anyone done this and where did you physically locate it(fore or aft)? 2nd
.I would like to run a conduit through the wing. Van has located the hole
too close to the fwd flange and also the bellcrank. I need lines for a
heated pitot tube , a landing lite and the strobe unit . Are the 2 stock
holes adequate? Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
Some kind of plastic pipe is handy but I ran the wires through the wing in
mine. Used some more of those plastic inserts that come with the kit. You
can get them in different sizes from Spruce. I mounted the individual power
supplies to the outside of the end rib. Cessna does the same thing with
their strobe power supplies. You can secure them with nuts or rivnuts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "by way of Matronics Technical Support <support(at)matronics.com>"
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Wing
Technical Support )
>
> Hey Guys, I am installing a strobe power supply unit on each wingtip. Has
> anyone done this and where did you physically locate it(fore or aft)? 2nd
> .I would like to run a conduit through the wing. Van has located the hole
> too close to the fwd flange and also the bellcrank. I need lines for a
> heated pitot tube , a landing lite and the strobe unit . Are the 2 stock
> holes adequate? Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com,
warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
7PM
Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 27nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial
?ORF)
AWOS 118.375
CTAF 123.0
The weather will be a perfect Virginia fall day!
Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of
Airport Terminal
Schedule of Events
Fly-In Begins 9AM
Food all Day 10AM ? 3PM
Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
Project Visits on Field
Aircraft Judging 11AM ? 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics,
Homebuilts, Warbirds
Social Hour 4PM
Dinner 5PM ? 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
Local motels/hotels are available
For More Information
Frank Toy 757-460-3680
ftoy(at)att.net
Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
rvreynolds(at)macs.net
EAA Chapter 339
http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
Hampton Roads Exec Airport
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving |
I've been in the archives looking at the string on engraved caps. It seems
to dead end with the loss of the individual who was doing the engraving.
Anybody out there know where to get one's caps engraved?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk, RV-8
St. Charles MO
N842S (Res.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Wing
>
> Some kind of plastic pipe is handy but I ran the wires through the wing in
> mine. Used some more of those plastic inserts that come with the kit.
You
> can get them in different sizes from Spruce. I mounted the individual
power
> supplies to the outside of the end rib. Cessna does the same thing with
> their strobe power supplies. You can secure them with nuts or rivnuts.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "by way of Matronics Technical Support <support(at)matronics.com>"
>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Wing
>
>
> Technical Support )
> >
> > Hey Guys, I am installing a strobe power supply unit on each wingtip.
Has
> > anyone done this and where did you physically locate it(fore or aft)?
2nd
> > .I would like to run a conduit through the wing. Van has located the
hole
> > too close to the fwd flange and also the bellcrank. I need lines for a
> > heated pitot tube , a landing lite and the strobe unit . Are the 2
stock
> > holes adequate? Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder CO
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Engraving |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Thursday, October 3, 2002, at 03:05 PM, Steve Struyk wrote:
> I've been in the archives looking at the string on engraved caps. It
> seems
> to dead end with the loss of the individual who was doing the
> engraving.
> Anybody out there know where to get one's caps engraved?
AFAIK Steve Davis is alive and well, although I haven't actually seen
him in person since Sunday afternoon ;-D
try him at: sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com
James Freeman
RV8QB
slowly finishing, with a Steve Davis panel....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com> |
I have just taken delivery of my RV-8 Quickbuild Kit. It appears that they
included RV-7 type Wing Tips. I have e-mailed the factory to see if this was
a mistake or part of the normal kit.
The main reason I am concerned is due to landing light installation. It is
my understanding that with the old wing tips, the builder could put the
landing lights in the wing tips. This makes sense to me because it appears
that if you decide to put them in the wing and make a mistake, then it will
be very difficult to correct the situation.
Any feeback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob Dean
(Still working on the elevators.)
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Halkett <brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Bob,
I was told by Van's the those wingtips are now
standard. Also, I was looking on the Van's parts list
and I couldn't even find the old tips. I don't even
think they sell the old ones anymore.
Brian Halkett
RV-8 N184BBJ 220+ hrs.
--- "Robert J. Dean" wrote:
>
>
>
> I have just taken delivery of my RV-8 Quickbuild
> Kit. It appears that they
> included RV-7 type Wing Tips. I have e-mailed the
> factory to see if this was
> a mistake or part of the normal kit.
>
> The main reason I am concerned is due to landing
> light installation. It is
> my understanding that with the old wing tips, the
> builder could put the
> landing lights in the wing tips. This makes sense
> to me because it appears
> that if you decide to put them in the wing and make
> a mistake, then it will
> be very difficult to correct the situation.
>
> Any feeback would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Dean
> (Still working on the elevators.)
>
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chuck and C. David Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chuck and C. David Rowbotham
Subject: RV-8A Paint - Blue Angles - N712CR
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/David_Rowbotham@dom.com.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kevin
Subject: Sledge Powered Dimpler
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com,
warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
7PM
Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial
(ORF)
AWOS 118.375
CTAF 123.0
The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall day!
Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of
Airport Terminal
Schedule of Events
Fly-In Begins 9AM
Food all Day 10AM - 3PM
Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
Project Visits on Field
Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics,
Homebuilts, Warbirds
Social Hour 4PM
Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
Local motels/hotels are available
For More Information
Frank Toy 757-460-3680
ftoy(at)att.net
Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
rvreynolds(at)macs.net
EAA Chapter 339
http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
Hampton Roads Exec Airport
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: RV-List: posting" (Oct 16, 6:40pm)
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to keep
everything consistant.
However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
operation? Sounds like it they might...
So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
dralle(at)matronics.com
with a simple:
"Forward"
or
"Don't Forward"
in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
announce the new method.
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
>Gary,
>
>Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
>RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
>two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
>across on the main RV-list.
>
>I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
>RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
>main RV-List.
>
>Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
>Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
>Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
>confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
>understand that they need study the original message to see where it
>originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
>list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
>Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
>
>Kevin
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary"
>>
>>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
>>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
>>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
>>the ones you want it to show up on.
>>
>>Gary
>>
>>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>>
>>Steve,
>>
>>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
>>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
>>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
>>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Thanks Scott! The votes are still trickling in and its a REALLY, REALLY
close race. If you have a preference and haven't yet voted, it so close
that one or two votes could actually make the difference. PLEASE only vote
once, though! To be fair, multiple votes from the same email address will
not be counted.
Matt
At 07:07 AM 10/19/2002 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Sudlow"
>
>Matt,
>
>You're doing a great job managing this.
>
>Chris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
> >
> >
> > Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
> > been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
> > a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
> > 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> > them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
> >
> > In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to
>keep
> > everything consistant.
> >
> > However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
> > see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> > operation? Sounds like it they might...
> >
> > So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
> >
> > dralle(at)matronics.com
> >
> > with a simple:
> >
> > "Forward"
> > or
> > "Don't Forward"
> >
> > in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
> > announce the new method.
> >
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > List Admin.
> >
> >
> > >--------------
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >
> > >Gary,
> > >
> > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
> > >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
> > >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
> > >across on the main RV-list.
> > >
> > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> > >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
> > >main RV-List.
> > >
> > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
> > >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
> > >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> > >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> > >understand that they need study the original message to see where it
> > >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> > >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
> > >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary"
> > >>
> > >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> > >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
> > >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> > >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> > >>
> > >>Gary
> > >>
> > >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> > >>
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >>
> > >>Steve,
> > >>
> > >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
> > >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
> > >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
> > >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott W. Hatten" <ScottHatten(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV9A - Plans / Empennage |
Wanting to Purchase?
Looking for anyone who might have purchased the RV9A plans, or the Empennage and
have changed
thier mind, or decided the project is too big?
Scott W. Hatten
Pataskala, OH
N6153K
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Hey RV Listers,
Okay, so I really don't mean to drag this out, but unbelievably, we have a
dead heat between "Forward" votes and "Don't Forward" votes! I had no idea
the opinion would run so close!! I've gotten a little over 100 votes so
far and it is literally a 50/50 split to the vote on which way to go. Over
the last week or so, each day I've gotten a couple of votes to Forward,
then a couple of votes to Not Forward - back and forth. With this many
people on both sides of the fence, no matter which way wins, there's gonna
be a lot of disappointed people! And I thought this vote would make it
easy for me to decide...
I'm going to keep the polls open until Sunday afternoon at 5pm pst, and
just go with the method that has the most votes - even if its just 1 or 2
votes. This is just like the Bush/Gore election; I'm down to counting
chad... You guys from Florida get your votes in! :-)
Here's how to vote - follow closely to make it easiest for me to count:
-- To Vote FORWARD --
* This means that you would like to have any messages posted to the
RV-specific lists automatically forwarded to the main RV-List.
Send an email message to: dralle(at)matronics.com
Make the SUBJECT line: "Forward"
-- To Vote DON'T FORWARD --
* This means that you don't want messages posted to the RV-specific lists
automatically forwarded to the main RV-List.
Send an email message to: dralle(at)matronics.com
Make the SUBJECT line: "Don't Forward"
If you care, here's your chance to make a difference! Get your vote in
before Sunday at 5pm pst. I'll announce the winner Sunday night...
Hey - and there's only voting one time, you guys! You know who you are... :-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
==============================================================================
Thanks Scott! The votes are still trickling in and its a REALLY, REALLY
close race. If you have a preference and haven't yet voted, it so close
that one or two votes could actually make the difference. PLEASE only vote
once, though! To be fair, multiple votes from the same email address will
not be counted.
Matt
At 07:07 AM 10/19/2002 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Sudlow"
>
>Matt,
>
>You're doing a great job managing this.
>
>Chris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
> >
> >
> > Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
> > been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
> > a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
> > 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> > them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
> >
> > In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to
>keep
> > everything consistant.
> >
> > However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
> > see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> > operation? Sounds like it they might...
> >
> > So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
> >
> > dralle(at)matronics.com
> >
> > with a simple:
> >
> > "Forward"
> > or
> > "Don't Forward"
> >
> > in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
> > announce the new method.
> >
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > List Admin.
> >
> >
> > >--------------
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >
> > >Gary,
> > >
> > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
> > >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
> > >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
> > >across on the main RV-list.
> > >
> > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> > >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
> > >main RV-List.
> > >
> > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
> > >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
> > >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> > >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> > >understand that they need study the original message to see where it
> > >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> > >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
> > >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary"
> > >>
> > >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> > >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
> > >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> > >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> > >>
> > >>Gary
> > >>
> > >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> > >>
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >>
> > >>Steve,
> > >>
> > >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
> > >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
> > >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
> > >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Jon's seats and canopy handle |
I finally got around to setting putting Jon's seats in place with the canopy
installed, only to discover that there is a serious interference with the
canopy latch handle and the seats, both front and rear. The nice wide
shoulders of the seat get in the way of the handle, and it's not by just a
little. One solution would be to saw maybe 2" off the side of the
upholstered seat - not a good solution. Another would be to eliminate the
entire D handle of the latch. I don't like that idea either. It doesn't
look like raising or lower the seats is an answer either.
Has anyone else solved this problem? How did you do it?
Thanks,
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) (The Final VOTE!) |
Dear RV Listers,
Okay, its after 5pm pst on Sunday and as promised, I've closed the
polls. I've counted the votes and recounted the votes, and even double
checked all of the Chad and the totals keep coming up the same. Are you
ready for this spread? Here is the official vote count:
95 votes: Forward
96 votes: Don't Forward
Unbelievable, I know. The totals ran within 1 to 2 votes of each other the
entire voting period. I couldn't believe it either. How could the split
be so close? Perhaps I should have turned to the Electoral College for
assistance... Or maybe Florida... :-) Much to Gore's delight, the popular
vote really did count!
So, the people have spoken and as of 5:19pm pst I have disabled the auto
forwarding from the RV-specific Lists to the main RV-List. As I mentioned
earlier, I really was on the fence about the right way, so thanks to
everyone for helping with the decision!
Isn't democracy great!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Hey RV Listers,
Okay, so I really don't mean to drag this out, but unbelievably, we have a
dead heat between "Forward" votes and "Don't Forward" votes! I had no idea
the opinion would run so close!! I've gotten a little over 100 votes so
far and it is literally a 50/50 split to the vote on which way to go. Over
the last week or so, each day I've gotten a couple of votes to Forward,
then a couple of votes to Not Forward - back and forth. With this many
people on both sides of the fence, no matter which way wins, there's gonna
be a lot of disappointed people! And I thought this vote would make it
easy for me to decide...
I'm going to keep the polls open until Sunday afternoon at 5pm pst, and
just go with the method that has the most votes - even if its just 1 or 2
votes. This is just like the Bush/Gore election; I'm down to counting
chad... You guys from Florida get your votes in! :-)
Here's how to vote - follow closely to make it easiest for me to count:
-- To Vote FORWARD --
* This means that you would like to have any messages posted to the
RV-specific lists automatically forwarded to the main RV-List.
Send an email message to: dralle(at)matronics.com
Make the SUBJECT line: "Forward"
-- To Vote DON'T FORWARD --
* This means that you don't want messages posted to the RV-specific lists
automatically forwarded to the main RV-List.
Send an email message to: dralle(at)matronics.com
Make the SUBJECT line: "Don't Forward"
If you care, here's your chance to make a difference! Get your vote in
before Sunday at 5pm pst. I'll announce the winner Sunday night...
Hey - and there's only voting one time, you guys! You know who you are... :-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
==============================================================================
Thanks Scott! The votes are still trickling in and its a REALLY, REALLY
close race. If you have a preference and haven't yet voted, it so close
that one or two votes could actually make the difference. PLEASE only vote
once, though! To be fair, multiple votes from the same email address will
not be counted.
Matt
At 07:07 AM 10/19/2002 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Sudlow"
>
>Matt,
>
>You're doing a great job managing this.
>
>Chris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
> >
> >
> > Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
> > been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
> > a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
> > 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> > them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
> >
> > In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to
>keep
> > everything consistant.
> >
> > However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
> > see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> > operation? Sounds like it they might...
> >
> > So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
> >
> > dralle(at)matronics.com
> >
> > with a simple:
> >
> > "Forward"
> > or
> > "Don't Forward"
> >
> > in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
> > announce the new method.
> >
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > List Admin.
> >
> >
> > >--------------
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >
> > >Gary,
> > >
> > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
> > >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
> > >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
> > >across on the main RV-list.
> > >
> > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> > >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
> > >main RV-List.
> > >
> > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
> > >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
> > >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> > >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> > >understand that they need study the original message to see where it
> > >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> > >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
> > >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary"
> > >>
> > >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> > >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
> > >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> > >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> > >>
> > >>Gary
> > >>
> > >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> > >>
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> > >>
> > >>Steve,
> > >>
> > >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
> > >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
> > >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
> > >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | How To Wire a "Dual-Rate" Electric Trim System... |
Hi Listers,
I've recently received a number of requests from builders regarding how to
wire up a "dual-rate" system for their electric trim installation. The
concept is that in cruse configuration the trim speed would be slow and
during flaps down configuration the trim speed would be fast.
I've draw up a schematic diagram that shows how to accomplish this using
two Matronics Governor MkIII units, a 12v relay, and an extra switch.
With the flaps up, the "fast" Governor MkIII is switched in, and when the
flaps are down, the "slow" Governor MkIII is switched in. I would
recommend using the highest quality, sealed relay available for this
installation.
Here is the Dual-Rate PDF document:
http://www.matronics.com/GovernorMkIII/DualRate-GovernorMkIII-Installation.pdf
and here is the Governor MkIII website:
http://www.matronics.com/GovernorMkIII
If you have any questions on the wiring diagram, feel free to email me
directly at: dralle(at)matronics.com
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | How to contact Ron Burch |
Does anyone have a telephone number for Ron Burch? There is an email link at the
following URL,
http://www.kitpanels.com/shops.htm
however my email bounces.
Roger Crandell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2002 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Email Forums sponsored here. Your Contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
The traffic on the Lists continues to grow and the numbers are nothing
short of impressive! Here are some statistics that show much traffic the
Lists generated last year alone:
11/01/2001 - 10/31/2002
Web server hits: 8,700,000 (727,000/mo)
Incoming Email Posts: 51,259 (4,271/mo) *
* This number is multiplied by the total number of email addresses
subscribed to the given List. The actual number of email message processed
is in the 50,000,000 range for last year!!
The new Internet provider, Speakeasy, has been providing extremely fast and
reliable service over the last year, and this has certainly been a
refreshing change from previous providers!
There were a couple of new features added at the tail-end of last year
including the new List Browse Feature ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
), and the List Photoshare which have been both very popular. Many people
have written to say how much they enjoy the on-line browsing capability of
current week's messages. The 184 new Photoshares (
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare ) added over the last year attests to
its acceptance and appreciation in the community as well.
I have upgraded both the email and web server OS systems recently to the
latest - well almost the latest - version of Redhat Linux and Kernel
2.4.19, both of which have been working very well and quite reliably.
What does the future hold? Well, something pretty exciting I'm
hoping... I am currently evaluating a new, commercially available software
package that runs under Linux and provides a complete web-based Email List
service akin to what those other guys use. The difference will be that
there won't be any annoying advertisements and popup ads on the Matronics
system!! The system will continue to be dedicated to furthering Lists
activities and not trying to sell you something you don't want. My hope is
to keep most if not all of the current functionality in place and add the
new software system over the top. Some of the system will be replaced
(like majordomo), but the lists will work much like they do today - only
BETTER! As I mentioned, I am currently in the evaluation stage of this and
have yet to select a final product. Suffice to say some facelifts are
definitely on the way!
Unlike many of the other "list servers" on the web these days, I have a
strict no-commercial-advertisement policy on the Matronics Lists and
associated List websites. I have been approached by a number of vendors
recently with advertising deals that have been very tempting. However, my
commitment to providing a grass-roots, non-commercial environment
prevails! Commercialism on the Internet seems to be increasing
exponentially every year with more and more SPAM and pop up ads, not to
mention the ever increasing Virus attacks. My goal with the Matronics List
Service is to provide my members with a commercial-free, safe, and
high-performance system in which to share information, ideas, and
camaraderie.
I recoup my upgrade, maintenance, and operating costs by having a List Fund
Raiser once a year during November. During this time, I ask List members
to donate a small amount of money to support the continued operation of the
Lists over the upcoming year. Contributions in the $20, $30, and $50 range
are common. This year I have completely revamped the Contribution website,
and have added the ability to use PayPal to make your Contribution in
addition to the traditional Visa/MC and Personal Check Options. Its easier
and faster than ever before to make your Contribution!! For those who are
accustomed to using PayPal to make Internet purchases, will appreciate the
ease and speed of using this handy method of payment to make their List
Contribution.
The best news this year, however, is that I have a couple of fantastic Gift
offers to support the List Fund Raiser! Andy Gold of The Builder's
Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ) will be generously donating a
FREE Jeppesen Flight Bag to anyone making a $50 or more List Contribution
during the Fund Raiser! This is a great bag and something you'll surely
what to get your hands on. Thanks Andy, for this great incentive!!
In addition to the great Flight Bag, I will also be offering a FREE
Matronics List Archive CDROM for a $50 or greater Contribution! This is a
complete set of archives for all Email Lists currently hosted by
Matronics. The Archives date back to the beginning of the each List. In
the case of the RV-List, for example, this includes archives all the way
back to 1990! That's about 133Mb alone! Also included on the CD is a copy
of Chip Gibbion's Windows Archive Search Utility and a precompiled
search-index for each archive on the CD.
Better yet?! You can get BOTH the Flight Bag AND the Archive CD for a
Contribution of $75 or more which is actually LESS than the combined retail
price on the two items!!! How can you go wrong? Get some great stuff AND
support your Lists at the same time!
Over the next month I'll be posting a few reminder messages about the List
Fund Raiser, and I ask for your patience and understanding during the
process. Remember that the Lists are *completely* funded through the
generous Contributions of its members. That's it! There's no support from
a bloated advertising budget or deep pockets somewhere. Its all made
possible through YOUR support!
I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who supports the
List this year. Your generosity contributes directly to the quality of the
experience here.
To make your List Contribution using a Visa or MasterCard, PalPal, or with
a Personal Check, please go to the URL link below. Here you can find
additional details on this year's great free Gifts as well as additional
information on the various methods of payment.
SSL Secure Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Again, I would like to thank everyone who supports the Lists this
year! Your Contributions truly make it all possible!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Left Elevator Trim Tab |
I am currently working on the left elevator. I have two questions about the
directions:
1) The plans call for countersinking the top portion of the Trim Spar so it
can accept the dimples from the skin and also allow for the hinge that
connects the trim tab. It also says that those holes that cannot take AN426
rivets (the four on the far left), should take blind rivets.
I have been advised that I incorrectly countersunk those holes that will
take the blind rivets; that those holes should have been dimpled.
I do not think that this was clear in the plans and I am curious as to what
other builders have done.
2) My second question is this. The plans call for connecting the root rib
(E705) to the trim spar with AN426 3-3.5 rivets. I have also been advised
that this is not correct. The correct rivet to use is a AN470 #4 rivet. It
was pointed out to me that no where else in the airplane are ribs and spars
connected together with #3 countersunk rivets.
Any comments or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob Dean
Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Left Elevator Trim Tab |
If you're thinking about, I don't think I'd scrap the elevator because I
countersunk 4 holes that should have been dimpled. That just doesn't make
sense. I don't think countersink the whole elevator skin but 4 holes.....
As for the -3 rivets holding the root rib in. That seems easy enough to fix
by drilling them out and installing the -4's.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert J. Dean
> Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 1:25 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Left Elevator Trim Tab
>
>
> I am currently working on the left elevator. I have two
> questions about the
> directions:
>
> 1) The plans call for countersinking the top portion of the Trim
> Spar so it
> can accept the dimples from the skin and also allow for the hinge that
> connects the trim tab. It also says that those holes that cannot
> take AN426
> rivets (the four on the far left), should take blind rivets.
>
> I have been advised that I incorrectly countersunk those holes that will
> take the blind rivets; that those holes should have been dimpled.
>
> I do not think that this was clear in the plans and I am curious
> as to what
> other builders have done.
>
> 2) My second question is this. The plans call for connecting the
> root rib
> (E705) to the trim spar with AN426 3-3.5 rivets. I have also
> been advised
> that this is not correct. The correct rivet to use is a AN470 #4
> rivet. It
> was pointed out to me that no where else in the airplane are ribs
> and spars
> connected together with #3 countersunk rivets.
>
> Any comments or guidance would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Dean
>
>
> Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN!
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator Trim Tab |
you might want to consult AC43-13...if you goof, it is generally acceptable
to go one size larger...or, if you have enough room drill out the
countersunk holes and substitute a bigger rivet.........or if all else fails
call the factory, they are allways glad to help....jolly in aurora,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Left Elevator Trim Tab
>
> If you're thinking about, I don't think I'd scrap the elevator because I
> countersunk 4 holes that should have been dimpled. That just doesn't make
> sense. I don't think countersink the whole elevator skin but 4 holes.....
>
> As for the -3 rivets holding the root rib in. That seems easy enough to
fix
> by drilling them out and installing the -4's.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
> 1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
> http://bmnellis.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert J. Dean
> > Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 1:25 PM
> > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Left Elevator Trim Tab
> >
> >
> >
> > I am currently working on the left elevator. I have two
> > questions about the
> > directions:
> >
> > 1) The plans call for countersinking the top portion of the Trim
> > Spar so it
> > can accept the dimples from the skin and also allow for the hinge that
> > connects the trim tab. It also says that those holes that cannot
> > take AN426
> > rivets (the four on the far left), should take blind rivets.
> >
> > I have been advised that I incorrectly countersunk those holes that will
> > take the blind rivets; that those holes should have been dimpled.
> >
> > I do not think that this was clear in the plans and I am curious
> > as to what
> > other builders have done.
> >
> > 2) My second question is this. The plans call for connecting the
> > root rib
> > (E705) to the trim spar with AN426 3-3.5 rivets. I have also
> > been advised
> > that this is not correct. The correct rivet to use is a AN470 #4
> > rivet. It
> > was pointed out to me that no where else in the airplane are ribs
> > and spars
> > connected together with #3 countersunk rivets.
> >
> > Any comments or guidance would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob Dean
> >
> >
> > Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN!
> > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MWhites676(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator Trim Tab |
I used AN470-4 rivets in that area, but with the skin riveted to both the
trim spar and root rib, I don't think there would be a real problem there.
BUT, if it bothers you, you can drill out the -3 rivets and put the 470-4
rivets in.
Note: I am no engineer, just another builder learning as I go, so take my
advise with a grain of salt.
Mike Whitescarver
RV-8A (Wing tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New List Digest Feature!! [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
I've added a new feature to the Digest format of the Lists tonight. At the
top of each digest you will find a new Index Listing of all of the messages
found within that Digest including the Message Number, Subject, Poster, and
Time of Day posted.
I've also added a "Message Number" header to each message within the Digest
so that its easy to find 'just the message' you were looking for!
Sorry for the double posting of the digests tonight - the first time I
didn't quite have the code right and a few "bogus" entries made it into the
Index. I went ahead and reposted the Digest so that everyone could see how
the Index-to-Message mapping really worked.
Special 'thanks' to Gary Hall for not only suggesting a Digest Index, but
also supplying a few samples on how it might look. Gary, I think you'll be
quite pleased with the format!
Don't forget that were right in the middle of this year's List Fund Raiser
and if you haven't already made your Contribution, you own it to yourself
to check out the great free Gifts that are available this year with your
qualifying Contribution.
The Lists are operated completely though the support of it members, and so
its up to YOU to get that credit card out and make that $20, $30, or $50
show of support for the continued operation of the Lists.
Won't you take a couple of minutes and make a quick Contribution on the all
new, streamlined List Support web site? I've also added a
Payment-through-PayPal option this year, and this is proving a very popular
method of payment. Don't forget to check out the great free gifts you can
get with a qualifying Contribution this year. I can't believe how popular
they've been this year! Hurry and get your's today and support the Lists
at the same time!
Here's the SSL Secure URL for making your Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MStudio828(at)aol.com |
Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has been
a labor of love.
I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the past.
I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
above.
I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
stomach and shaky knees.
Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining speed.
Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up, gaining
speed. Keep going?
Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep going.
And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy is
she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
Larry Mcconnell
Phoenix, Arizona
RV-8 #81195 slow build
0-360-A2A
Sensenich metal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations Larry on you flight!!
Having past the same test two weeks ago today, I can really, really
relate!
This will be one of the most memorable days of your life, ENJOY! You
earned it. All that hard work is beginning to pay off.
Best wishes
Rob Miller N262RM
--- MStudio828(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
> I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has
> been
> a labor of love.
> I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
> The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the
> past.
> I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
>
> above.
> I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
>
> stomach and shaky knees.
> Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining
> speed.
> Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up,
> gaining
> speed. Keep going?
> Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep
> going.
> And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying,
> boy is
> she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
>
> Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
> inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
>
> Larry Mcconnell
> Phoenix, Arizona
> RV-8 #81195 slow build
> 0-360-A2A
> Sensenich metal
>
>
>
>
>
> Contribution
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
That's beautiful - Good luck, I'll be right behind you some day soon.
Doug Ritter
Alexandria, VA
>
>Sunday, November 3, 2002, 6:45 am
>I sit looking down the runway. It has been 3 years in the making. It has been
>a labor of love.
>I sit alone in the cockpit. The radio is silent. The engine purr's.
>The instruments are all in the green. The run-up and taxi test in the past.
>I have a flight plan, but my mind only sees the runway ahead and the sky
>above.
>I ignore some fear in my head, the lump in my throat, butterflies in the
>stomach and shaky knees.
>Finally I advance the throttle, the engine growls, I'm moving, gaining speed.
>Check RPM, is this right? Keep going. Keep going. Lift the tail up, gaining
>speed. Keep going?
>Check instruments, eyes back to the run way. Correct for drift. Keep going.
>And Liftoff. She is flying, she's really flying. Ahhhhhh! Its flying, boy is
>she flying, I zoom past my intended altitude, no matter, it flies!
>
> Many thanks to all on the list. It has been an invaluable resource,
>inspiration and sometimes entertaining.
>
>Larry Mcconnell
>Phoenix, Arizona
>RV-8 #81195 slow build
>0-360-A2A
>Sensenich metal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | massey wing tips |
Does anyone have experience using the Massey wing tips on an RV?
http://www.masseyaircraftservice.com/performance.htm
Thanks
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... |
Dear Listers,
First, I'd like say *thank you* to everyone that's already made a
Contribution to this year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you! If you haven't
already made a Contribution, won't you take a movement and show your
support for these valuable services? Since there's no advertising or other
forms of direct commercialism on the forums to support the Lists, its soley
YOUR GENEROSITY that keeps them running!!
Won't please take a minute and make a Contribution via the SSL secure web
site via Credit Card, Paypal, or personal check. Here's the URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
This year, I've been getting some *really* nice comments from Contributors
and I thought I'd pass along a few of them below. What does the List mean
to *you*?
Thank you for your support!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
_________________ What your fellow Listers are saying... _________________
...great service!!
Greg B.
They have been a great assistance to me in building my RV-8.
Kevin H.
...very much appreciated.
Donald M.
Great site...
Angus F.
...invaluable resource.
Ronald C
[The List] has played a big part in continuing my project at
those times when I got stuck for some reason.
Jeff D.
Although I am only a reader, I find the list very helpful.
Oswaldo F.
The lists are a fantastic resource and are helping me very much...
Kenyon B.
The list is part of my life.
Ron C.
The CD will free up some hard disk space on my personal PC.
Jeff D.
...unbelievably useful.
Dan O.
...dependable and valued source of builder information.
Jerry C.
My daily lifeline!
Owen B.
...frequently get questions answered on the List.
Billy W.
Don't know how any first-time builder could get by without the lists.
Rick R.
...great source of information and motivation.
Jef V.
Super resource!
David P.
The information presented is very helpful to the building process.
James B.
Wonderful Service!
Wendell D.
The lists are great!
F. Robert M.
...very valuable to this builder.
William C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering if
there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
noise and vibration.
Comments?
--Don McNamara
N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
-- Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
In a message dated 11/7/2002 3:26:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, N8RV(at)gte.net writes:
>
> OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm
> OLD!)
>
> http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
>
> -- Don
> N8RV
Don,
I used a similar material on the firewall of my -6. I have no idea if it made
a difference. The airplane was still exceptionally loud and headsets were mandatory.
It certainly added a bit of weight. I decided not to do anything on
my -8. I don't especially want it inside the forward baggage comparment and the
lower left side of my firewall is jammed with wires, cables, and such. Get
a good ANR headset and forget about it.
Rick McBride
probably keeping pace with ya!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
Hey Don,
I just spoke to a rep at B- Quiet and he recomended the Brown Bread and the
Composit Vcomp or Lcomp. He said none of the products were designed for
aviation. This stuff looks good to me, easy to install and the price seems
reasonable too.
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
>
> OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
>
> http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
>
> -- Don
> N8RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I sent away for their samples a while back. I was not impressed enough
to persue it. Some of the stuff seemed to be tar-based. Other stuff
just looked like light-wieght foam. I scratched them off my list of
possibilites and am still casually hunting for other options.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:27 PM
> To: RV8 List; RV-8 List
> Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
>
>
>
> OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
>
> http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
>
> -- Don
> N8RV
>
>
> ============
> Contribution
> Free Gifts!
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
I go to my local aircraft graveyard..look into later model cessna, beech,
and other planes..you will find a dark looking pad in etween the
upholstry,and the inner metal..it has gread sound deadening qualities...just
a thought...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
>
> I sent away for their samples a while back. I was not impressed enough
> to persue it. Some of the stuff seemed to be tar-based. Other stuff
> just looked like light-wieght foam. I scratched them off my list of
> possibilites and am still casually hunting for other options.....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
> > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:27 PM
> > To: RV8 List; RV-8 List
> > Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
> >
> >
> >
> > OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
> >
> > http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
> >
> > -- Don
> > N8RV
> >
> >
> > ============
> > Contribution
> > Free Gifts!
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net> |
Anyone in the Atlanta area now building RV8 wings? I am trying to decide if
I want to order a quick built or a slow built wing.
Mike Crowe
RV8A done with the Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 trim servo/stick control |
Hello,
I am asking a question for my pop's who is putting finishing touches on his new
RV 8. He is going to the airport in the morning to try and figure out this newest
problem.
Please bare with me because I am a student pilot and not familiar with correct
terms.
He ask, The servo for the electric trim has 4 wires, but the control stick that
he purchased from Van's has only three.
Have any of you had this dilemma?
Thanks
Paul Petty
Student pilot
C-150 N4958P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net> |
Hi Michael,
Not real close but 2 rv8a's are being built near augusta, ga
both are in the wing stage.
ray rv8a(at)csranet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 wings
>
> Anyone in the Atlanta area now building RV8 wings? I am trying to decide
if
> I want to order a quick built or a slow built wing.
>
> Mike Crowe
> RV8A done with the Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Check out this material for sound deadening
http://www.dynamat.com/
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Martin <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
Dear Larry
3 year ago when I built my rv8, I used a space age lightweight insulation on the
firewall and fuselage sides forward portion that seems to work very well after
600 hours, winter and summer. I cannot tell if there is a significant reduction
in noise because I use Bose headsets, however, living in the north, I know
that the insulation value is there. In the summer, I am unable to detect any
heat transfer from the engine compartment to the fuselage. I obtained this
from a rv builder in Tennessee who apparantly has some connection with the space
program. I cannot remember his name, however, if interested, I can find his
name and address from my parts invoices etc for my RV.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233m
the fast one
>
> I sent away for their samples a while back. I was not impressed enough
> to persue it. Some of the stuff seemed to be tar-based. Other stuff
> just looked like light-wieght foam. I scratched them off my list of
> possibilites and am still casually hunting for other options.....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
> > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:27 PM
> > To: RV8 List; RV-8 List
> > Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
> >
> >
> >
> > OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
> >
> > http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
> >
> > -- Don
> > N8RV
> >
> >
> > ============
> > Contribution
> > Free Gifts!
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> > ===========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
| From: | "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
on 11/9/02 20:29, Richard Martin at martin(at)gbonline.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear Larry
> 3 year ago when I built my rv8, I used a space age lightweight insulation on
> the firewall and fuselage sides forward portion that seems to work very well
> after 600 hours, winter and summer. I cannot tell if there is a significant
> reduction in noise because I use Bose headsets, however, living in the north,
> I know that the insulation value is there. In the summer, I am unable to
> detect any heat transfer from the engine compartment to the fuselage. I
> obtained this from a rv builder in Tennessee who apparantly has some
> connection with the space program. I cannot remember his name, however, if
> interested, I can find his name and address from my parts invoices etc for my
> RV.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233m
> the fast one
>
>
>>
>> I sent away for their samples a while back. I was not impressed enough
>> to persue it. Some of the stuff seemed to be tar-based. Other stuff
>> just looked like light-wieght foam. I scratched them off my list of
>> possibilites and am still casually hunting for other options.....
>>
>> -
>> Larry Bowen
>> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>> http://BowenAero.com
>>
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 3:27 PM
>>> To: RV8 List; RV-8 List
>>> Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> OK, so I forgot to give you the URL ... (be nice -- I'm OLD!)
>>>
>>> http://www.b-quiet.com/lite.html
>>>
>>> -- Don
>>> N8RV
>>>
>>>
>>> ============
>>> Contribution
>>> Free Gifts!
>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dick: I guess your back on the RV-8 list again. I would appreciate it if
you can find the name and number of the person you bought your insulation
from. I remembered a post from a few years ago about it and had forgot
about the source until I saw you response. Thanks in advance.
Ed OConnor/RV-8 N366RV/Panama City FL
Working on everything
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
I talked to George Orndorff about this subject and he said that sound
proofing material doesn't help much except on the firewall because most of
the noise comes in through the canopy.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>
> Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering if
> there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
> noise and vibration.
>
> Comments?
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 trim servo/stick control |
You'll need to purchase a servo from Van's or Matronic's to use the switch
on the stick. You need a double throw, double pole(DPDT) switch on the
panel like the one provided with the trim system to get away from needing
the servo.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 trim servo/stick control
>
> Hello,
> I am asking a question for my pop's who is putting finishing touches on
his new RV 8. He is going to the airport in the morning to try and figure
out this newest problem.
>
> Please bare with me because I am a student pilot and not familiar with
correct terms.
> He ask, The servo for the electric trim has 4 wires, but the control stick
that he purchased from Van's has only three.
>
> Have any of you had this dilemma?
>
> Thanks
> Paul Petty
> Student pilot
> C-150 N4958P
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
Thats were a 3 blade prop can help, or so I have been told.
>
>I talked to George Orndorff about this subject and he said that sound
>proofing material doesn't help much except on the firewall because most of
>the noise comes in through the canopy.
>
>Wayne
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
>To: "RV8 List" ; "RV-8 List"
>
>Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>
>
>>
>> Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering if
>> there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
>> noise and vibration.
>>
>> Comments?
>>
>> --Don McNamara
>> N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
Is that a 3 blade "composite" specifically?
Jim
Do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>
> Thats were a 3 blade prop can help, or so I have been told.
>
>
<commando@cox-internet.com>
> >
> >I talked to George Orndorff about this subject and he said that sound
> >proofing material doesn't help much except on the firewall because most
of
> >the noise comes in through the canopy.
> >
> >Wayne
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
> >To: "RV8 List" ; "RV-8 List"
> >
> >Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering
if
> >> there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
> >> noise and vibration.
> >>
> >> Comments?
> >>
> >> --Don McNamara
> >> N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 8220
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
No, 3 blade in general. Smaller Dia less tip noise. 3 blade is also
balanced compared to a two blade. Example: spin up a two and three blade
let them go in the verticle direction the 3 blade will continue upward
much farther due to it being balanced. The two blade will very quickly fall
to the ground in comparision. This is one reason I am going with the
Whirlwind 3 blade composite. Its aobut 2 k more than the Hartzell but its
quitier, smoother (read, less vibration which also equals noise) and is 28
lbs lighter than the Hartzell.
>
>Is that a 3 blade "composite" specifically?
>Jim
>Do not archieve
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>
>
>>
>> Thats were a 3 blade prop can help, or so I have been told.
>>
>>
><commando@cox-internet.com>
>> >
>> >I talked to George Orndorff about this subject and he said that sound
>> >proofing material doesn't help much except on the firewall because most
>of
>> >the noise comes in through the canopy.
>> >
>> >Wayne
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
>> >To: "RV8 List" ; "RV-8 List"
>> >
>> >Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering
>if
>> >> there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
>> >> noise and vibration.
>> >>
>> >> Comments?
>> >>
>> >> --Don McNamara
>> >> N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 8220
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet sound deadening materials |
Sorry about the last message accidentally sent before I finished or spell
checked.
No, 3 blade in general. Generally a 3 blade for a engine will be smaller
Dia this equals less tip noise. 3 blade is also balanced compared to a two
blade. Example: spin up a two and three blade let them go in the vertical
direction, the 3 blade will continue upward much farther due to it being
balanced. The two blade will very quickly fall to the ground in comparison.
This is one reason I am going with the Whirlwind 3 blade which happens to
be a composite. Its about 2 k more than the Hartzell but its quieter,
smoother (read, less vibration which also equals less noise) and is 28 lbs
lighter than the Hartzell. I guess one very important thing to realize is
that vibration equals noise especially in a thin walled structure that can
vibrate such as a airplane.
>
>Is that a 3 blade "composite" specifically?
>Jim
>Do not archieve
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>
>
>>
>> Thats were a 3 blade prop can help, or so I have been told.
>>
>>
><commando@cox-internet.com>
>> >
>> >I talked to George Orndorff about this subject and he said that sound
>> >proofing material doesn't help much except on the firewall because most
>of
>> >the noise comes in through the canopy.
>> >
>> >Wayne
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
>> >To: "RV8 List" ; "RV-8 List"
>> >
>> >Subject: RV8-List: B-Quiet sound deadening materials
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Hey, anybody ever heard of or use this stuff in an RV? I'm wondering
>if
>> >> there's value in using it in side panels, bulkheads, etc. to lessen the
>> >> noise and vibration.
>> >>
>> >> Comments?
>> >>
>> >> --Don McNamara
>> >> N8RV (yeah, still out here ...)
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 8220
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Major web site update |
I've been spending way too much time lately doing a major web site
update. The old hard-coded html was becoming too much of a monster
to maintain. I wanted to make some major changes to it, but that
would have meant rebuilding every page. So I trashed to lot in the
dustbin, and moved to Geeklog, an open-source content management
system, or web log. It took a few late nights to get all the old
content moved over, but now that it is there I can update the project
status in a fraction of the time it used to take me.
The new site also allows viewers to add comments on most pages, plus
viewers can suggest new links for the links page. It has a pretty
good search engine built it, and users can customize their display
preferences (if they create a user name and log in). I was also able
to put most of my electrical system diagrams up on the site.
I'm eventually going to spring for a domain name, but for now the new
site is located at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/%7Ekhorton/rv8
Time to get building again,
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Marie Murillo
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder this morning that we're well into this year's Email
List Fund Raiser. Response has been great so far and there has been a lot
of interest in the Gift options. Speaking of those Gifts, I received a
sample of the Jeppesen Flight Bag from Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com this weekend, and let me just say that this is
an extremely fine quality unit. Its very light, folds down into a very
small form for storage, and will hold a whole lot of your "pilot
stuff"! For a mere $50 List Contribution, one of these very nice bags
could be yours! You'll be the envy of all your friends.
Won't you make a Contribution today to support the these valuable Email
List Services? Please remember that its YOUR generosity that entirely
supports the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists. That's it - no
ads, no banners - just good clean fun; that is, with your support of course!
Please take a moment and make a generous Contribution today. It only takes
a minute using the newly redesigned Contribution Web Site where you can use
either a Credit Card, PayPal, or a Personal Check to make your donation.
The URL for the SSL Secure Contribution web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
And I'd like to say a special "thank you!" to everyone one who has made
Contribution so far this year!! I really appreciate your generosity!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV-list , RV 8 list ,
RV 8 , RV 7 List ,
RV 7 , RV 6 List ,
RV 6
In the never ending quest of ways to make an RV faster I was wondering
what could be done around the the tail wheel. From my extremely limited
knowledge of laminar flow and turbulent flow it seems that at 200 mph
that far back on the plane the air would be pretty turbulent. It also
seems that the prop wash would only amplify this effect. But still who
knows there may be something to be gained back there so I thought of a
fairly simple experiment someone who has a finished plane could try, if
someone hasn't already tried it. Back in the old days a tail dragger
was exactly that a tail "DRAGGER" no wheel just some thing to hold the
plane structure off the ground. What if someone where to take the tail
wheel (spring and all) off and replace it with a simple straight spring
sticking out the standard place. That would seem to be a pretty clean.
Obviously ground handling would be almost impossible but if you did it
on a small quite grass strip on a week day, you could get the plane on
the runway and then change it out, take off and do a quick speed check.
So anyone want to give it a try?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | tru-trak wing levelers and auto pilots |
Does anyone have experience with Trutrak Flight Systems wing levelers and autopilots?
Are you
satisfied with the performance and if not, what model do you have and describe
the problems.
Trutrak claims their autopilot works especially well in turbulence as compared
to to other
autopilots which might need to be disengaged in turbulence.
Thanks
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
> I just spoke to a rep at B- Quiet and he recomended the Brown Bread and
the
> Composit Vcomp or Lcomp. He said none of the products were designed for
> aviation. This stuff looks good to me, easy to install and the price
seems
> reasonable too.
Watch the flammibles guys. Does this stuff have a rating? The good stuff is
non toxic even when flame from another fire source is burning it. The good
stuff will quit burning as soon as the other flame source is turned off
(fuel or electrical) but many types of insulation will continue to burn
with thick amounts of toxic smoke. I have never seen the good stuff for what
I would call cheap.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Quiet (again) |
Good point Norman, Do you by chance know of a great product?
Jim
----- Original Message ----- >
> Watch the flammibles guys. Does this stuff have a rating? The good stuff
is
> non toxic even when flame from another fire source is burning it. The good
> stuff will quit burning as soon as the other flame source is turned off
> (fuel or electrical) but many types of insulation will continue to burn
> with thick amounts of toxic smoke. I have never seen the good stuff for
what
> I would call cheap.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
See http://www.polytechinc.com/ for fire rated (UL94-V0) acoustical insulation.
I received samples from them. Looks good. No cost info yet.
RV8IATOR(at)earthlink.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Stone [mailto:jrstone(at)insightbb.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: B-Quiet (again)
Good point Norman, Do you by chance know of a great product?
Jim
----- Original Message ----- >
> Watch the flammibles guys. Does this stuff have a rating? The good stuff
is
> non toxic even when flame from another fire source is burning it. The good
> stuff will quit burning as soon as the other flame source is turned off
> (fuel or electrical) but many types of insulation will continue to burn
> with thick amounts of toxic smoke. I have never seen the good stuff for
what
> I would call cheap.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Wow, I can't belive some of the nice things people have been saying about
the Lists in that little message box on the Contribution form! I've
included more of the great comments since the last WLAS. Thank you to
everyone that has made a Contribution thus far and for all the great
feedback! Please know that I really appreciate the comments and support!!
Have a look at some of your fellow members thoughts below and decide if the
Lists mean at least that much to you or perhaps even more...
Won't you take a moment and make a Contribution to support these
Commercial-Free, SPAM-Free, Virus-Free, high-performance List
services? Its your direct support through this yearly Fund Raiser that
enables all of these valuable services you've come to expect of the
Matronics Lists.
Thank you for your Contribution!!
SSL Secure Web Site - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
=====================================================================
=================== What Listers Are Saying - II ====================
=====================================================================
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Having built part of a kit... ...I know exactly how
much this list means to me and others.
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As always... you've got a real cool & very useful
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I shudder to think of the trouble I would have had
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-Grant C.
...enjoy everyone's input.
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The Digest Message subject list is an excellent
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Certainly the [the List] has been a valuable source
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benefit,... the wonderful friends that we meet and
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What a great forum to exchange ideas and info.
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A valuable list which has certainly helped me.
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...the List helps so many.
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I really appreciate the site and find it interesting
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Lists are a great resource!
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Your unselfish contribution to the experimental
aircraft movement is very much appreciated!
-Alex M.
Great help on the Aeroelectric list.
-Bruce B.
It helps on a daily basis.
-Tim G.
Thanks for providing this outstanding service to us!
-Michel T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | LOC Coming Soon... |
Dear Listers,
This year's List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner. I'll be
posting the LOC on or about December 1. The List of Contributors is a
directory of everyone's name that made a Contribution during this year's
List Fund Raiser. Its kind of my way of publicly thanking everyone that so
generously made a Contribution to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these Lists.
Support your Lists today and make sure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC! Your friends will be checking no doubt to see if YOU make your
Contribution because THEY did! :-)
Support Contribution Info - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for links + electrical system diagrams |
Links - I've got a reasonably useful list of RV and Flight Test links at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php
But, I'm looking for suggestions for links that I should add. I am
looking for any links to info that would be of interest to builders
or flyers of RVs, or to those flight testing homebuilt aircraft.
Note - I am not looking to develop a list of all builder pages - Van
already has one of those, and there is no point in replicating it.
I've got links to a few builder pages, but I want to keep that down
to the best builder sites.
You can e-mail suggestions to me at khorton(at)rogers.com (please don't
simply reply to this message - there is no point in flooding the list
with the replies). Or, you can select the Add a Link link when you
are on my links page and fill in the details there.
Electrical system diagrams - Just in case anyone is interested, I've
posted my work-in-progress electrical system drawings on-line.
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01
Hopefully this long URL won't get split into two lines - if it does
you must copy and paste it back into one piece.
Or, just got to: http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8 Then
select the Electrical System link over on the left side, and you
should be able to figure it out from there.
I know there are probably inconsistencies between some of the
drawings. And some drawings are not yet complete, so they haven't
been posted. I'm not looking for comments - these are just part of
my RV-8 web site that I thought some members of these lists might be
interested in.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N959WP First flight |
Saturday, Nov. 16, RV8A N959WP made first flight. Aerosport Power 0360-A1A
engine and Hartzell constant speed prop from Van's, Airplane flew
wonderfully and the famous RV grin was working overtime. Thanks to my good
friend Glen Barron for all his help.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A flying
Farmerville, La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Woodhouse <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
RV 7 , RV 7 List ,
RV 8 , RV 8 list ,
RV 9 , RV 9 List
Well I have been playing with my cad software again. I saw how Paul
Besing made a stand for the fuselage out of an engine stand over at
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tips.html and that got me thinking.
First I wanted something that would be height adjustable. I also wanted
to have a stand in the back to give a little bit better support. I
didn't show it in these models but the vertical part of the stand will
have a telescoping tube with holes every so often to adjust the height.
My attachment in the back is just a 1/2-20 ball link (www.McMaster.com
PN 60645K26) then I weld a 1 3/4 inch long coupler nut to a 1/4" thick
plate and screw it on to the stud of the ball link. Then drill holes to
match some mounting point on the back of the fuselage. For the front I
just have a 1-1/4" OD tube with a 1" ID, I have a hole for it to pivot
up and down on. Then I split the tube along it's length with another
coupler nut on top with the threads drilled out of one half so you can
use a bolt to clamp down on the 1" OD tube that goes inside, that the
fuselage pivots on. I didn't show all the details of the tubes or angle
or channel or what ever other steel you can find to attach your fire
wall to the mounting plate on the stand, because that will be different
for every plane. Well anyway a picture is worth a thousand words so
before I get to a thousand words just go look at the link below.
http://ip68-12-221-171.ok.ok.cox.net:8088/stands/
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N959WP First flight |
Congrats Wayne. Having only 9 hours on my 8A ... I know that grin !! Fly
Safe !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
9 hours !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | electrical system diagrams |
Someone requested pdf versions of my electrical system drawings. So,
the list of links to the pdf files is at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?story=2002110613250638
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I got to thinking today that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund
Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List
Services here provide a far better experience than the commercial
equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a huge amounts of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of use is
outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth of
messages online for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses. I am currently working on the additional ability to post and/or
reply directly from the List Browse interface. More on this upcoming
feature in the next week or so.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys who I knew and who where
also building RVs. It has grown into over 40 different aviation-related
Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 9,000,000 hits
each year!! Additionally, the List email system forwards well over
50,000,000 (yes, that 50 MILLION) email messages to subscribers each
year! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value in
supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and
improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
We are quickly approaching the end of November and the official end of the
List Fund Raiser. If you look forward to checking your List email everyday
(and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably
getting at least $20 or $30 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each
year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or
even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to
you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a
well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support
YOUR Lists.
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution
thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made
possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Free Gift Shipping Status... |
Dear Listers,
A couple of people have written asking what the shipping status was of
their free List Contribution Gifts. Seemed like some status was in order
and I thought I detail where we're at...
Flight Bag Requests
-------------------
On 11/20/02 I shipped out the first batch of Flight Bag-Only (FBO) gift
requests. I shipped all FBO gift requests I had received from 11/1 to
11/19 except for 3 (Sorry guys!) - I ran out of my first shipment flight
bags! Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com
) is supplying me with another batch flight bags which should arrive in
about 2 weeks.
By the way, these are REALLY nice Flight Bags. Extremely well built and
very professional looking. Folds down into a very small size, but will
hold a huge amount of stuff. If you fly, and you've got a lot of stuff,
they you WANT one of these guys. Surf over to the List Contribution page
for details on how to get one of your own!!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The Flight Bags have been shipped out US Mail Parcel Post in a large, and I
mean LARGE, padded white plastic envelope. According to the Post Office,
worse case delivery time would be 8 days to destinations on the East Coast,
but indicated it would likely take a lot less time.
Archive CDROM Requests
----------------------
The Archive CDROMs will be mastered and burned on or about December 1 and
should ship out shortly there after. Shipping will be US Mail, Media Rate
in a big padded white envelope. The Archive List data included will be up
to November 30th.
Flight Bag and Archive CDROM Requests
-------------------------------------
These combination orders will ship out when the Archive CDROMs are complete
as described above, likely a little after December 1. The Flight Bag and
the CDROM will be shipped together in the same Giant white padded envelope!
Again, I want to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore for providing
these awesome Flight Bags to support the List Fund Raiser. Andy has gone
way beyond the call of duty with regard to his support of the Lists this
year and to show your gratitude I would ask that you have a look at his web
site and great media offerings. You'll find some excellent deals on some
very useful material. http://www.buildersbooks.com
And finally, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a
Contribution so far this year! Your generosity and kindness is greatly
appreciated. If you've been putting off making a Contribution, now's a
great time show your appreciation in plenty of time to make it onto this
year's List of Contributors AND get your free gift with qualifying
Contribution!!!
List Contribution Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New List FAQs! |
Dear Listers,
I got to looking at the Email List FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) today
and realized that they where miserably out of date. I spent a wad of time
today completely revising them and adding in documentation on all of the
many new features such as the List Browse and Photoshare. Many of the
little-known features are documented in there now, too, so even if you're a
seasoned List veteran, you might want to give it a read. Never know what
you might discover.
At the bottom of this message in the Trailer you will find a new link item
called "List FAQ" with a URL for this specific List. Just click on it and
print it out or read it online.
Don't forget that November is the List Fund Raiser month! The "2002 List
of Contributors" is just days away and I know you'll want to make sure your
name is on it!! Please make your Contribution today to support the
continued operation of these List Services!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
There are only a few days left until the November List of Contributors. I
thought I'd take another opportunity to pass along some of the really nice
things people have been saying recently about the Lists and how much they
mean to them.
If you receive value from the Lists in the form of ideas, assistance,
comradery, moral support, inspiration, or just plain 'ol good
entertainment, then won't take a moment to make a Contribution to support
the continued operation and upgrade of them?
Secure List Contribution Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
What does the List mean to you? Here's what some of your fellow
contributing List members have said...
------------------------- What Listers Are Saying -------------------------
Great service for aviation types like me.
Larry H
Best investment I've made.
Harley B
I've been on this list since around 1996 and used it to
help me finish my RV-6A three years ago. I'm still here
because I still learn from it and use it to help others
like me who may be where nobody else is building a RV.
Thanks for your service to our community. It's appreciated.
Jim S
[List] people are a great break away from politics, religion
and other sordid subjects.
Robert B
This site is a great confidence builder for the amateur builder.
Gene L
Great service!
Barry P
Very handy list to have, a good place for a beginner to
get great answers from those who already experienced it.
...sure enjoy reading it.
Joel R
...valuable service!
Chris & Indira K
This is the better than any morning paper - the best and
most frequent service that I use on the Internet. Great
job! This will make building the RV doable for me.
Pete E
I enjoy all of the ideas, suggestions and humor that comes
with this list. I don't think I could build my RV4 with
out everyone's help.
Ross S
GRRRRRRRRRRRREAT!
James W
The list is a great source of information, motivation,
entertainment, passionate debate, and light-hearted back
slapping. I wouldn't be without it.
Roger H
...would still be looking for plans to hook-up s-tec auto
pilot without your service!
David S
The new [digest] format is good.
Graham S
Great information you can't get anywhere else. Lots of nice
people who have "Been there...done that."
George D
My normal morning routine:
1 Kiss "the princess"
2 Good cup of coffee
3 Log onto "List"
A wonderful means of exchanging ideas, asking questions,
gathering information, and sharing experiences.
Robert G
Great lists. Not only are the lists professionally and efficiently
managed, but the *people* on the lists are very helpful, friendly
and fun to chat with. Thank you for this wonderful resource.
Ihab A
Thanks a million, well maybe not a million!!! (:
Ken H
I need this fix every morning or I get grumpy...
Wayne P
Very useful lists
Paul E
This communication medium that you created, nurtured and
continue to maintain is the best thing since AN rivets!
Jim J
The information I gleaned off the list has always been
helpful.
Kenneth B
I've been a subscriber to varied lists for several years
now. The knowledge provided has been extremely useful
throughout.
David P
Enjoy everyone's input even though I am not a
builder...just a flyer.
Douglas P
Just laughin' and a scratchin'
Dennis N
It is a real asset and good for comic relief.
Ross S
I can't build my plane without your service!
Kent H
Great info on the lists!
Wesley H
I'm very new to the List but have already benefited
greatly.
Jim S
The "List" has been my best source for information
concerning my aviation projects. Besides, it also
brings a bunch of people together to share their
interests and knowledge. Thanks for providing a
state of the art, easy to use resource tool.
David A
I have saved a lot of grief and dollars from referencing
this site. It is truly an extension of Van's product
support.
Joseph C
Terrific asset this List is to the builder!
Scott J
Great service!
Tony B
Look forward to the list each and every day.
John B
I could not cope up here in this lonely island without
the help of the List and all the wonderful helpful
people that have the experience of aircraft building
and flying for fun.
Johann J
This list is part of my daily routine. I'm addicted.
Terry D
Great forum!
John H
This list is my main interest in the Internet.
George R
Great list. The best out there on any subject.
Kevin H
Been on the list since 1998 and I still look forward to
reading the list every day. A most valuable tool. I have
picked up many useful tips during the construction of
my RV-4.
Jerry I
Thanks for all of your hard work on the lists. It is
one of the reasons I bought a CJ-6A. Without the
Yak-list, I believe it would have been much more
difficult to get all the information that I need
for safe operation and maintenance of this fine
aircraft.
David L
The List has been an amazing source of useful
information. I consider it one of my best builder
tools.
Gunter M
An excellent channel of information. I have gained a
wealth of knowledge on both building and flying Kolb
aircraft.
Jim B
Enjoy the wealth of information that is shared.
Richard N
Fine service.
Beauford T
[The] List is the first stop of the day. Made lot of
friends from it.
Orie S
The information I gleaned off the List has always been
helpful.
Kenneth B
Over the 3+ years that I have been building, I check it
several times each day. I have learned a lot of very
useful tips that have helped me in my building.
Richard D
Not only is it worth a contribution for the info gleaned
from it but the personalities alone are pure entertainment!
Stephen F
This is great stuff!!! Entertaining, too!! Fast answers
from those who really know...
Bob R
I am building an RV-9A and have received help from
the lists and occasionally been able to give help to
others.
Alden Van W
This list has saved me countless hours of work and worry
already, and I'm only halfway there! Undoubtedly the most
important aid I have yet found in this sometimes
intimidating process of building an aircraft.
Paul H
I've been a member since '96 and have learned so much from
the vast knowledge of the listers.
Gary Z
Outstanding List, exceptionally maintained.
David S
Thanks for all the improvements you've made this year. The
Photoshare feature definitely proves "one picture is worth
a thousand words".
Richard H
I finished my RV6A this year. It is a much better airplane
because of the help I found on the RV and Aeroelectric
Lists.
Dale W
Can't imagine building without the list.
Larry H
The list continues to be a great resource of information
and advice.
Jeff O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Gift Selection Added - List Fund Raiser! [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
I've just added a great new last minute Gift Selection to this year's List
Fund Raiser line up! I have a very limited number of sets of a wonderful
collection of Aircraft Technical books by Jeppesen entitled "The A&P
Technical Series Book Set". This is a great opportunity to make a generous
Contribution to support the Lists and walk away with a great set of
reference manuals at the same time.
This set of books normally retails for over $117 PLUS shipping, but you can
pick up your set AND make this year's List Contribution for a cool C-note -
that's a $100, by the way! :-) I'm thinking "Great Christmas Gift"...
There's more information on the books and making your Contribution at the
List Contribution web site:
Email List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
We're coming close to the official end of this year's List Fund Raiser and
if you haven't yet made your Contribution, there's still time get your name
on that List of Contributors! The percentage of contributors is kind of
low this year but I'm hoping many of you are just holding out until the
last minute!
I want to thank each and everyone of you that has already made a donation
to support the continued operation and upgrade of these List Services. As
I've mentioned in the past, running these Lists is a labor of love for me
and the hours upon hours of code development, system maintenance, and
upgrades are MY Contribution to support this great resource for Builders
and Flyer's alike. Won't your take a minute and make YOUR Contribution today?
I want to thank you for your support both during the Fund Raiser but also
throughout the year in the form of kind words and moral support. A nice
comment from a List member about how much the lists have helped them is
always a sure way to brighten my day!
Thank you to all!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ!] "What is my Contribution used for?" |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What is my Contribution used for?", and this is a valid
question. Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support
enables. It provides for the expensive, business-class, high-speed
Internet connection used on the List, insuring maximum performance and
minimal contention when accessing List services. It pays for the regular
system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance
possible for services such as the Archive Search Engine and List
Browser. It pays for 14+ years worth of online archive data available for
instant random access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing,
developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this List
Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, and Photoshare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and
your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from
moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer
viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make all those statements
about these days? I will venture to say - next to none...
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many desirable aspects
of this most valuable List service. Please support it today with your List
Contribution. Its the best investment you can make in your Sport - BAR NONE!
Email List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
This is the last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser. Based on previous
year's percentages of Lister's making a Contribution, this year we are
nearly 40% behind the normal... And I thought all those great gifts would
eke the percentage up past the average a little. Oh well. Maybe people
just don't really mind the flashing banner ads for Viagra, and popups for
X10 minicams...
There's still plenty of time to get your name of the List of
Contributors. I'll probably publish the LOC on Monday night after I
process the checks from the Post Office.
I do want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so
far this year. Your support is greatly appreciated and is what makes the
Lists possible.
How to support your Lists this month: http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Bunny Page Safety Correction |
Hello,
Though I am honored to have an RV list posting of mine grace the Bunny
List, I have discovered that one of my suggestions is not correct and
for safety needs elaboration. Specifically:
On Web Page
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/wingspar.htm
Item 11, Please change the suggestion #11 on items to buy for
constructing the wing kit to read as follows:
11. The Avery (37 degree) Flaring Tool. Though it seems pricy for the
few fittings on the wing, it will come in to its own when you start
doing the brake and fuel lines on the fuselage. I also bought th e
premade fuel pickup tube(s) from Vans Aircraft. It is important that all
builders insure that their flaring tool is suitable for aircraft
fittings (37 degree).
** When I had made the original post I had thought the cheap flaring
tool I had bought was 37 degrees. It wasn't and I wound up buying the
Avery tool. This means I will have to redo the tank vent lines.
Fortunately they were the only ones I used the 'cheap' flaring tool on.
Additionally, I would alter item 7 to read as follows:
7. Though I initially purchased and tried to use the 'rivet shaver' bit
from Avery, I found that I was not skilled enough to do anything other
than make the rivet job look worse. I also gleaned from the list that
apparently one needs a really high speed tool for it to work properly.
What a pain! What I found to eventually be the most satisfactory for me
was the micro scotch-brite wheel that Dremel sells. With that and a
Dremel tool you have much better control as well as an 'oops' safety
factor.
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID USA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc. |
OK
Its about time to make an engine selection. My baseline is a 0-360.. But
I have always been one to at least consider other options... I do not want
to take on a From Scratch Installation But I would consider what are
called FWF packages
It really looks like the Subaru FWF packages might be a possibility The
Subaru FWF packages from Eggenfellner looks well thought out.. And have
been installed in 50+ RV7 & 9s.. But I dont think any have gone in 8
s..
Jan runs 2.5L with a supercharger in order to maintain 160HP thru a
reasonable FL. When the weight of the engine is combined with the lighter
weight prop allowed with a smoother running engine the weights of the 2.5
vs the O-360 are awash..
BUT... And This is very important... The boost of the supercharger is only
one pound !! Going to 1.5 pounds gives 180HP 3 pounds gets us 200HP.. 3
lbs of boost is not Unreasonable boost But an intercooler would have
to be added. Comments ??
There is a second Subaru supplier.. Cross Flow Aero out of Canada I
know nothing about them but they use either the 2L or 3.3L six. Anyone
know these guys..
Big mistake to even think about this option?? Anyone out there with
real-life RV Subaru story ?? Are there other reasonably priced FWF
packages out there to consider ? FYI.. Re-sale is not a concern.. I will
have this RV many - many years.. I have very good mechanical / electrical
skills..
Al KArpinski
Central NY
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc. |
An acquaintance of mine, building some other type of plane, sent his
entire fuselage to the Crossflow people for fitting of a FWF pkg. Last
I heard, he was still waiting more than a year later for things to be
finished. That's all I know about Crossflow......I wasn't
impressed.....
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 panel
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
[snip]
>
> There is a second Subaru supplier.. Cross Flow Aero out of
> Canada I know nothing about them but they use either the 2L
> or 3.3L six. Anyone know these guys..
>
> Big mistake to even think about this option?? Anyone out there with
> real-life RV Subaru story ?? Are there other reasonably
> priced FWF packages out there to consider ? FYI.. Re-sale
> is not a concern.. I will
> have this RV many - many years.. I have very good
> mechanical / electrical
> skills..
>
> Al KArpinski
> Central NY
> RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Bench grinder vs Buffer |
I'm needing to get something that's faster than using sand paper and files
and am looking for some feedback on the less expensive Bench Grinder vs the
Buffer. Is there anything that the Buffer will do that the grinder won't?
The only difference I can see is that the grinder has the guards that might
be in the way but I would think I could take those off if needed. And I'm
assuming I can use all the same attachments for the grinder ie: scotch
bright wheel, wire brush wheel, etc.
Thanks,
Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Crunkleton <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>
>
>I'm needing to get something that's faster than using sand paper and files
>and am looking for some feedback on the less expensive Bench Grinder vs the
>Buffer. Is there anything that the Buffer will do that the grinder won't?
>The only difference I can see is that the grinder has the guards that might
>be in the way but I would think I could take those off if needed. And I'm
>assuming I can use all the same attachments for the grinder ie: scotch
>bright wheel, wire brush wheel, etc.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Will Allen
>North Bend, Wa.
>RV8 Emp
>
>Will,
>
What you need is a 1" belt sander. Finish the job with a scotch-brite
wheel and voila'.
Jim Crunkleton
QB 80662
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> |
| Subject: | Camloc Reinforced? |
Listers,
Looking at the thin (like .040) cowling material and 4" spacing between
camlocs, it seems to me the studs & grommets should be mounted with maybe an
.025 reinforcement strip added behind the cowling. But then the .063
receptacle side would need to be spaced by the same amount, adding more
weight.
The question for those of you flying these is how has the cowling fiberglass
held up without reinforcement?
Thanks,
Dave Grebe
RV-8 F.F. stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New List Digest Format!! |
Dear Listers,
I've just finished up some awesome code that will completely change your
thinking about how email Digests should work and look! Yeah, I'm kind of
proud of it, that is true... :-)
What you'll be getting in the new List Digest message is the
following: The main message will contain the new text-based index I
introduced a few weeks back. But here's where things get
different... Instead of simply including all of the day's posts in line
within the message, there will now be included two enclosures - one with a
HTML encoded version of the Digests, and another with the usual text-only
version of the Digests.
I think you're really going to like the new HTML enclosure of the
Digests. All of the Indexes at the top are now hyperlinked to the actual
posts and there are hyperlinks at the top of each post that will:
o Take you back to the Index
o Take you to the next post
o Take you to the previous post
o Allow you to respond to the LIST regarding the message
o Allow you to respond directly to the POSTER regarding the message
You'll have to check it out to appreciate the full goodness of the new
format! :-)
The text-only version is basically exactly the same data that has been
normally sent in line within the message.
You'll also note that the filenames of the enclosures are such that they
can be conveniently placed in a personal "archive" directory for future
reference.
Hope you enjoy the new Digest format!!!
Oh, and don't forget about the Fund Raiser! :-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camloc Reinforced? |
I only have 14 hours on my 8A but I don't see where any reinforcement is
necessary. I don't think there is as much pressure on the camlocs as you
might think.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
14 hours !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
>
>Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I'm needing to get something that's faster than using sand paper and files
>>and am looking for some feedback on the less expensive Bench Grinder vs the
l,
>>
>What you need is a 1" belt sander. Finish the job with a scotch-brite
>wheel and voila'.
>Jim Crunkleton
>QB 80662
>
Will, I have to second Jim's note....I used the 1" sander on long shear
edges, on thicker pieces to round the edges and corners (especially good for
that)...it's just a very good all around tool. I setup a drill press with
the scotch brite wheel, and only use my bench grinder to sharpen drill bits
and modify tools to fit in small places and bucking bars that never seem to
be quite right for one or two rivets on every assembly!!
Dave Grebe
RV-8 FF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New, NEW List Digest Format... |
Dear Listers,
Okay, so I woke up this morning to an email box full of hate-mail about the
new List Digest format. I thought it was cool, but I guess not... Still,
it seemed like too much code to just throw out, so I've modified things a
little and I'm hoping everyone will be happy with the new, NEW
arrangement. Here's how it works now:
o The HTML and TXT enclosures aren't sent in the Digest any longer.
o URL Links to the HTML and TEXT versions of the day's Digests
will be found at the top of the digest email.
o The new Digest Index will be found at the top of the digest email
following the URL Links.
o The full digest text will then be found in the email as before.
o All of the previous Digests will now be available on line. The
URL for the main digest page is:
http://www.matronics.com/digest
From here, you can drill into the specific List Digest of interest.
o Both the HTML and TXT versions of the Digests can be found here.
o The List Message Trailer will contain a Link directly to the given
o Right now there's only one Digest shown, but each day there will
be another. They will be sorted with the newest at the top.
Left-hand column is the HTML version, right-hand column the TXT
version.
A couple people also complained that some messages in the HTML version were
just one long line that went off to the right forever and they hated
that. Come to think of it, this is also an issue in the Search Engine,
List Browser, and Archive Browser. Some email programs don't included hard
Returns at regular intervals and that's what causes this. I wrote a
program tonight that will automatically chop these long lines into 78
characters or less and wrap the rest of the line. After tonight's Archive
transfer, all of the Searching and Browsing tools shouldn't have the
problem any longer either. Woo hoo!
So, back to the new Digest format. What people are going to see in the
new, NEW Digest is a bit of verbiage at the top of the email describing the
URL links to the HTML and TXT on-line versions, followed by the Links,
followed by the day's Index, followed by the day's messages just as
before. Lines longer than 78 characters will also be automatically wrapped
onto the next line.
Hopefully this will be a more pleasing arrangement for everyone. Sorry to
get everybody so stirred up over the format change!
The List of Contributors is coming out tomorrow night... Still time to
make that Contribution! http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bench grinder vs Buffer |
I bought a 6" grinder from Home Depot, removed the guard from one side and replaced
the grinding wheel with a Scotchbrite wheel. Works great for dressing edges.
-----Original Message-----
From: Will & Lynda Allen [mailto:linenwool(at)attbi.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Bench grinder vs Buffer
I'm needing to get something that's faster than using sand paper and files
and am looking for some feedback on the less expensive Bench Grinder vs the
Buffer. Is there anything that the Buffer will do that the grinder won't?
The only difference I can see is that the grinder has the guards that might
be in the way but I would think I could take those off if needed. And I'm
assuming I can use all the same attachments for the grinder ie: scotch
bright wheel, wire brush wheel, etc.
Thanks,
Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc. |
Hey..Al! hello....I have just gone thru this with a RV6a I brought back
form down south for a coustomer...BEFORE you go to the egg. engine..try NSI
out of arlington WA..they have a NICE set up, with NO supercharger, complete
with a NICE re-drive set up..he shipps the engine so complete it will take
you about 3 hrs to install...HOW ABOUT THAT?..tell him you know Jolly is
aurora, or...good flying..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
>
>
> OK
>
>
> Its about time to make an engine selection. My baseline is a 0-360.. But
> I have always been one to at least consider other options... I do not
want
> to take on a From Scratch Installation But I would consider what are
> called FWF packages
>
> It really looks like the Subaru FWF packages might be a possibility The
> Subaru FWF packages from Eggenfellner looks well thought out.. And
have
> been installed in 50+ RV7 & 9s.. But I dont think any have gone in 8
> s..
>
>
> Jan runs 2.5L with a supercharger in order to maintain 160HP thru a
> reasonable FL. When the weight of the engine is combined with the
lighter
> weight prop allowed with a smoother running engine the weights of the 2.5
> vs the O-360 are awash..
>
> BUT... And This is very important... The boost of the supercharger is
only
> one pound !! Going to 1.5 pounds gives 180HP 3 pounds gets us 200HP..
3
> lbs of boost is not Unreasonable boost But an intercooler would have
> to be added. Comments ??
>
>
> There is a second Subaru supplier.. Cross Flow Aero out of Canada I
> know nothing about them but they use either the 2L or 3.3L six. Anyone
> know these guys..
>
> Big mistake to even think about this option?? Anyone out there with
> real-life RV Subaru story ?? Are there other reasonably priced FWF
> packages out there to consider ? FYI.. Re-sale is not a concern.. I will
> have this RV many - many years.. I have very good mechanical /
electrical
> skills..
>
> Al KArpinski
> Central NY
> RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc. |
Besides the fact that I am an NSI dealer. I really like the NSI package you
will be very impressed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jolly
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
Hey..Al! hello....I have just gone thru this with a RV6a I brought back
form down south for a coustomer...BEFORE you go to the egg. engine..try NSI
out of arlington WA..they have a NICE set up, with NO supercharger, complete
with a NICE re-drive set up..he shipps the engine so complete it will take
you about 3 hrs to install...HOW ABOUT THAT?..tell him you know Jolly is
aurora, or...good flying..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
>
>
> OK
>
>
> Its about time to make an engine selection. My baseline is a 0-360.. But
> I have always been one to at least consider other options... I do not
want
> to take on a From Scratch Installation But I would consider what are
> called FWF packages
>
> It really looks like the Subaru FWF packages might be a possibility The
> Subaru FWF packages from Eggenfellner looks well thought out.. And
have
> been installed in 50+ RV7 & 9s.. But I dont think any have gone in 8
> s..
>
>
> Jan runs 2.5L with a supercharger in order to maintain 160HP thru a
> reasonable FL. When the weight of the engine is combined with the
lighter
> weight prop allowed with a smoother running engine the weights of the 2.5
> vs the O-360 are awash..
>
> BUT... And This is very important... The boost of the supercharger is
only
> one pound !! Going to 1.5 pounds gives 180HP 3 pounds gets us 200HP..
3
> lbs of boost is not Unreasonable boost But an intercooler would have
> to be added. Comments ??
>
>
> There is a second Subaru supplier.. Cross Flow Aero out of Canada I
> know nothing about them but they use either the 2L or 3.3L six. Anyone
> know these guys..
>
> Big mistake to even think about this option?? Anyone out there with
> real-life RV Subaru story ?? Are there other reasonably priced FWF
> packages out there to consider ? FYI.. Re-sale is not a concern.. I will
> have this RV many - many years.. I have very good mechanical /
electrical
> skills..
>
> Al KArpinski
> Central NY
> RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc. |
RIGHT!...how are you doing with that project?.. didn't know you were a NSI
dealer...jolly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
>
> Besides the fact that I am an NSI dealer. I really like the NSI package
you
> will be very impressed.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jolly
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
>
>
> Hey..Al! hello....I have just gone thru this with a RV6a I brought back
> form down south for a coustomer...BEFORE you go to the egg. engine..try
NSI
> out of arlington WA..they have a NICE set up, with NO supercharger,
complete
> with a NICE re-drive set up..he shipps the engine so complete it will take
> you about 3 hrs to install...HOW ABOUT THAT?..tell him you know Jolly is
> aurora, or...good flying..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski(at)baldcom.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 - Alternative Engines. Subaru, etc.
>
>
> >
> >
> > OK
> >
> >
> > Its about time to make an engine selection. My baseline is a 0-360..
But
> > I have always been one to at least consider other options... I do not
> want
> > to take on a From Scratch Installation But I would consider what are
> > called FWF packages
> >
> > It really looks like the Subaru FWF packages might be a possibility
The
> > Subaru FWF packages from Eggenfellner looks well thought out.. And
> have
> > been installed in 50+ RV7 & 9s.. But I dont think any have gone in 8
> > s..
> >
> >
> > Jan runs 2.5L with a supercharger in order to maintain 160HP thru a
> > reasonable FL. When the weight of the engine is combined with the
> lighter
> > weight prop allowed with a smoother running engine the weights of the
2.5
> > vs the O-360 are awash..
> >
> > BUT... And This is very important... The boost of the supercharger is
> only
> > one pound !! Going to 1.5 pounds gives 180HP 3 pounds gets us 200HP..
> 3
> > lbs of boost is not Unreasonable boost But an intercooler would have
> > to be added. Comments ??
> >
> >
> > There is a second Subaru supplier.. Cross Flow Aero out of Canada I
> > know nothing about them but they use either the 2L or 3.3L six.
Anyone
> > know these guys..
> >
> > Big mistake to even think about this option?? Anyone out there with
> > real-life RV Subaru story ?? Are there other reasonably priced FWF
> > packages out there to consider ? FYI.. Re-sale is not a concern.. I
will
> > have this RV many - many years.. I have very good mechanical /
> electrical
> > skills..
> >
> > Al KArpinski
> > Central NY
> > RV8
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 electric trim |
| From: | James Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm just about to finish my left elevator on my RV-8 and want to think this
thru before I close up the elevator and bend the leading edge. I'm
guessing that it would be OK to run the wires from the motor thru the hole
in the elevator spar for the manual trim cable, into the stab thru that
manual cable hole and into the fuselage using some type of protective wrap
around the wires. Is there a common method that is used that someone can
can pass along?
Jim Gray
RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 electric trim |
Hi Jim,
Just a heads up! My father-n-law hit a snag when his RV8 was being converted
from the panel switch type control for the electric trim to a stick mounted
switch. They had to incorporate a relay and other wiring to make it work so
if you plan to use a stick mounted trim switch may want to change out the
servo before sewing up the elevator..
Just a idea.
PP....
N4958P
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Gray" <n747jg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 electric trim
>
> I'm just about to finish my left elevator on my RV-8 and want to think
this
> thru before I close up the elevator and bend the leading edge. I'm
> guessing that it would be OK to run the wires from the motor thru the
hole
> in the elevator spar for the manual trim cable, into the stab thru that
> manual cable hole and into the fuselage using some type of protective wrap
> around the wires. Is there a common method that is used that someone can
> can pass along?
>
> Jim Gray
>
> RV-8QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 electric trim |
James
I used a plastic "snap" grommet in those holes and put some shrink tube
over the wires as extra protection.
Good Luck
Rob Miller
N262RM -8 "Bad Cat" 14 hours
--- James Gray wrote:
>
> I'm just about to finish my left elevator on my RV-8 and want to think
> this
> thru before I close up the elevator and bend the leading edge. I'm
> guessing that it would be OK to run the wires from the motor thru the
> hole
> in the elevator spar for the manual trim cable, into the stab thru that
> manual cable hole and into the fuselage using some type of protective
> wrap
> around the wires. Is there a common method that is used that someone
> can
> can pass along?
>
> Jim Gray
>
> RV-8QB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Hi Guys,
Who can tell me how wide the widest point of an assembled RV8 fuselage is? I'm
trying to decide if I'll be able to get it out of my shop without cutting a new
door or something. I want to build my wings and tail and fuselage in my workshop,
then take everyting to my hanger for final assembly etc.
DOC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv8 fuse. width |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Friday, December 6, 2002, at 07:12 PM, Dr. Kevin P. Leathers wrote:
>
> Who can tell me how wide the widest point of an assembled RV8 fuselage
> is? _
About 36" at the widest point on the firewall. Figure on a little more
than this for the "false spars" which make very convenient handles for
a support frame, Mine is about 44" total, but I wasn't concerned about
width since the narrowest door I'll take it through is an 8' garage
door.
JFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8 fuse. width |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: RV8-List: rv8 fuse. width
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Who can tell me how wide the widest point of an assembled RV8 fuselage is?
I'm trying to decide if I'll be able to get it out of my shop without
cutting a new door or something. I want to build my wings and tail and
fuselage in my workshop, then take everyting to my hanger for final assembly
etc.
>
> DOC
Doc: The firewall is 36" wide.
The fuselage with the windshield frame is ~46 1/4" high.
The fuselage at the rear seat is ~33 1/4" high.
The fuselage height at the inst panel is ~35".
The belly skin at the center section is 35 1/4" wide.
I note that a standard 36" passage door opening seems to be about 35 1/4"
wide inside the stops. The door would have to be removed to obtain this
width.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | engine baffling RV6 S-cowl |
I'm working on engine baffling and wondering specifically how at the front of the
engine between the starter ring gear and the upper/lower cowl joint the distance
that the part 1 fits forward of the aft end of the cowl joint? Should it
be cut off even with the cowl joint so that the fabric will seal that gap?
What about the cowl joint screws rubbing/chaffing against the aluminum or fabric
(depending which method used)? The part supplied in the generic baffle kit
extends forward of the aft end of the cowl air inlet. Should the airseal fabric
seal the whole area around this area with no leaks? It seems this is a hard
area to seal with the fiberglass air inlets being bonded to the cowl meeting
at this area also. Surely someone has been there. Thanks.
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Test -- Please Ignore |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean C. Merchant" <merchant.2(at)osu.edu> |
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear cockpit
of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have a
plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before starting.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Dean Merchant
RV8 < engine
Dean C. Merchant
3894 Chevington Rd.
Columbus, OH 43220-4719
[614]459-3881
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
> Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear cockpit
> of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have a
> plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before starting.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Dean Merchant
> RV8 < engine
> Dean C. Merchant
Dean,
Rear cockpit heat is an issue with the RV-8. I've grappled with it and
managed to come up with an improved but not perfect system. See
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm for details.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 285 hrs, starting prop swap
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
I put in 2 Vans heat muffs and boxes. One dumps on the pilots feet, and the second
has 2 inch SCAT tube that runs along the left lower cockpit wall terminating
just aft of the throttle quadrant abeam the pilots seat, secured to the spar
carry through. They work well above 0F.
>
>
>
> Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear cockpit
> of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have a
> plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before starting.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Dean Merchant
> RV8 < engine
> Dean C. Merchant
> 3894 Chevington Rd.
> Columbus, OH 43220-4719
> [614]459-3881
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a long way from worrying
about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
weather? Have you done anything to protect yourself from the cold? How
did it work?
Thanks
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: gvm(at)cableone.net [mailto:gvm(at)cableone.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
I put in 2 Vans heat muffs and boxes. One dumps on the pilots feet, and
the second has 2 inch SCAT tube that runs along the left lower cockpit
wall terminating just aft of the throttle quadrant abeam the pilots
seat, secured to the spar carry through. They work well above 0F.
>
>
>
> Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear
cockpit
> of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have
a
> plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before
starting.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Dean Merchant
> RV8 < engine
> Dean C. Merchant
> 3894 Chevington Rd.
> Columbus, OH 43220-4719
> [614]459-3881
>
>
>
>
>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jtgarner" <jtgarner(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/27/02 |
Keeping the back seater warm. Have you considered putting in an outlet for
an electric vest? Designed primarily for motorcycles, the heated vest comes
with a heated collar. Check out:
http://www.widder.com/ventura.htm
Regards,
Tom Garner, RV-8A firewall forward
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV8-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/27/02
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2002-12-27.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2002-12-27.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 12/27/02: 1
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:24 AM - Re: Rear Cockpit Heat (Bert Penney)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a long way from worrying
about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
weather? Have you done anything to protect yourself from the cold? How
did it work?
Thanks
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: gvm(at)cableone.net [mailto:gvm(at)cableone.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
I put in 2 Vans heat muffs and boxes. One dumps on the pilots feet, and
the second has 2 inch SCAT tube that runs along the left lower cockpit
wall terminating just aft of the throttle quadrant abeam the pilots
seat, secured to the spar carry through. They work well above 0F.
>
>
>
> Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear
cockpit
> of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have
a
> plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before
starting.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Dean Merchant
> RV8 < engine
> Dean C. Merchant
> 3894 Chevington Rd.
> Columbus, OH 43220-4719
> [614]459-3881
>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Cross <bcross2160(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/27/02 |
Hi Bert
Those temperatures sound pretty low to me. I am from Canada too but have
never seen that temperature in real life only on the Weather Channel.
Regards
Brian #81844
>*
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
>Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
>of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
>Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
>version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
>text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2002-12-27.html
>
>Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2002-12-27.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 12/27/02: 1
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 06:24 AM - Re: Rear Cockpit Heat (Bert Penney)
>
>
>________________________________ Message
>1 _____________________________________
>
>
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
>
>
>I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a long way from worrying
>about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
>concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
>with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
>fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
>anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
>weather? Have you done anything to protect yourself from the cold? How
>did it work?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: gvm(at)cableone.net [mailto:gvm(at)cableone.net]
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
>I put in 2 Vans heat muffs and boxes. One dumps on the pilots feet, and
>the second has 2 inch SCAT tube that runs along the left lower cockpit
>wall terminating just aft of the throttle quadrant abeam the pilots
>seat, secured to the spar carry through. They work well above 0F.
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear
>cockpit
> > of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to have
>a
> > plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before
>starting.
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> > Dean Merchant
> > RV8 < engine
> > Dean C. Merchant
> > 3894 Chevington Rd.
> > Columbus, OH 43220-4719
> > [614]459-3881
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/27/02 |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Hi Brian,
You must be from Vancouver :-)
Here in Edmonton, -20 to -40 is the standard temperature range in the
winter. We have had a very mild winter this year, but the temp has
dropped recently. I am also concerned about the possibility of trips to
Yellowknife where -40 tends to be a little optimistic....
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Cross [mailto:bcross2160(at)rogers.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/27/02
Hi Bert
Those temperatures sound pretty low to me. I am from Canada too but
have
never seen that temperature in real life only on the Weather Channel.
Regards
Brian #81844
>*
>
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>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 12/27/02: 1
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 06:24 AM - Re: Rear Cockpit Heat (Bert Penney)
>
>
>________________________________ Message
>1 _____________________________________
>
>
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
>
>
>I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a long way from worrying
>about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit
of
>concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
>with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
>fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
>anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
>weather? Have you done anything to protect yourself from the cold?
How
>did it work?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: gvm(at)cableone.net [mailto:gvm(at)cableone.net]
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
>I put in 2 Vans heat muffs and boxes. One dumps on the pilots feet, and
>the second has 2 inch SCAT tube that runs along the left lower cockpit
>wall terminating just aft of the throttle quadrant abeam the pilots
>seat, secured to the spar carry through. They work well above 0F.
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Hello: ... I have a question about delivering hot air to the rear
>cockpit
> > of the RV8. I'm about to hang the engine but thought it best to
have
>a
> > plan for the location and arrangement for the 2" tubing before
>starting.
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> > Dean Merchant
> > RV8 < engine
> > Dean C. Merchant
> > 3894 Chevington Rd.
> > Columbus, OH 43220-4719
> > [614]459-3881
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>>
>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
Bert,
I wear a snowmobile suit at temperatures below freezing in my RV-6A. I
bought a surplus USAF Nomex insulated flight suit that is also very
comfortable, but a little hard to get on and off. I wear insulated boots,
too. Sorrel boots or Lacrosse work well. I look like I'm ready for ice
fishing when I'm suited up. I would like to be comfortable if I have to land
in a field or on a frozen lake, so that is another reason to wear a moon
suit in the winter!
Sun coming into the bubble canopy keeps pilot and passenger warm from the
waist up. I have a single heat muff that discharges on the passenger's feet.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV (RV-6A flying)
N222SZ (RV-8 under construction)
-----Original Message-----I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a long
way from worrying
about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
weather?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360-A power spreadsheet |
I was away from home over the Christmas period, and I couldn't work
on the project, so I found some time to produce a spreadsheet to
calculate the power output of the Lycoming IO-360-A and C engines.
The Excel 4 spreadsheet basically replicates the graphical power
chart found in the Lycoming Operator Manual. The zipped spreadsheet
can be found on my web site - there is a link in the Engine part of
the RV Links section, and there will be a link on the front page of
the site for the next while.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Hi Stephen,
I guess my expectations are a little high. I was kinda hoping that I
could have an auto type environment where I could sit in my shirt
sleeves regardless of the outside temp. Oh, well. I have lots of time,
so I'll keep pondering the problem.
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
Bert,
I wear a snowmobile suit at temperatures below freezing in my RV-6A. I
bought a surplus USAF Nomex insulated flight suit that is also very
comfortable, but a little hard to get on and off. I wear insulated
boots,
too. Sorrel boots or Lacrosse work well. I look like I'm ready for ice
fishing when I'm suited up. I would like to be comfortable if I have to
land
in a field or on a frozen lake, so that is another reason to wear a moon
suit in the winter!
Sun coming into the bubble canopy keeps pilot and passenger warm from
the
waist up. I have a single heat muff that discharges on the passenger's
feet.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV (RV-6A flying)
N222SZ (RV-8 under construction)
-----Original Message-----I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a
long
way from worrying
about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
weather?
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Fred Stucklen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Fred Stucklen
Subject: RV-6A IFR Inst Panel & Wiring
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/wstucklen1@cox.net.01.02.2003/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
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Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
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lycoming(at)yahoogroups.com
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360-A power spreadsheet - need to fix errors |
I found several errors in this spreadsheet that cause it to fail to
calculate at some rpm and manifold pressure conditions. There is also
a data error for 2000 rpm. I will post a corrected version on 4 Jan
2003 as soon as I do some more testing.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
lycoming(at)yahoogroups.com
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 & O-360 power spreadsheets |
I corrected the errors I found in the IO-360 power spreadsheet. It
is built from the Lycoming chart for the IO-360-A, -C, -D, -J, -K and
AIO-360 series.
I tried comparing it to data from the POH for a 1977 Mooney 201 with
a IO-360-A3B6 engine. However it quickly became clear that the data
in the Mooney POH differs significantly from the Lycoming power
chart. For example, at 8000 ft and 2700 rpm, Mooney claims that
23.6" manifold pressure gives 75% power, while the Lycoming power
chart gives something like 21" for 75%. Either Mooney wants to
cruise at artificially high power to give good marketing numbers, or
they measure manifold pressure differently than Lycoming or Lycoming
has changed their power chart since 1977.
The corrected Excel 4 spreadsheet basically replicates the graphical
power chart found in the Lycoming Operator Manual. The zipped
spreadsheet can be found on my web site - there is a link in the
Engine part of the RV Links section, and there will be a link on the
front page of the site for the next while.
Several years ago I created an Excel 4 spreadsheet version of a power
chart for the Lycoming O-360-A and -C engines. It is also available
on my web site.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)personnelincorporated.com> |
"RV-List \(E-mail\)"
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Help |
Happy New Year friends! I'm just finishing my second tank and found the, I
think, fuel sender is inaccurate. When testing with the arm all the way up
it reads full. When testing with it in the lowest position it reads about a
couple gallons off the lower gauge peg. I tried it with two gauges and got
the same reading. My first sender seems to be right on. Anyone else run
into this problem?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8, wings
KDSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Help |
i did also..I started to compare the two units, and found with wires to the
floats were a bit different..after cussing at myself made them exactly the
same, and didn't have any more proplems..in cast this does not work for
you..try weighing each float and wire..they might weigh diffwerent..happy
new year. and blus skys to you!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)personnelincorporated.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel Sender Help
>
> Happy New Year friends! I'm just finishing my second tank and found the,
I
> think, fuel sender is inaccurate. When testing with the arm all the way
up
> it reads full. When testing with it in the lowest position it reads about
a
> couple gallons off the lower gauge peg. I tried it with two gauges and
got
> the same reading. My first sender seems to be right on. Anyone else run
> into this problem?
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8, wings
> KDSM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
I'm not at that point yet (just started my RV8 wings) but I really like the
idea of a water-cooled engine (in particular, the new developing "diesel")
for many reasons including the nice car-like heating system you get from a
radiator. What do you think? I'm in the mid-Atlantic but do plan to fly
high where it's cold.
>
>Hi Stephen,
>
>I guess my expectations are a little high. I was kinda hoping that I
>could have an auto type environment where I could sit in my shirt
>sleeves regardless of the outside temp. Oh, well. I have lots of time,
>so I'll keep pondering the problem.
>
>Bert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
>To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
>Bert,
>
>I wear a snowmobile suit at temperatures below freezing in my RV-6A. I
>bought a surplus USAF Nomex insulated flight suit that is also very
>comfortable, but a little hard to get on and off. I wear insulated
>boots,
>too. Sorrel boots or Lacrosse work well. I look like I'm ready for ice
>fishing when I'm suited up. I would like to be comfortable if I have to
>land
>in a field or on a frozen lake, so that is another reason to wear a moon
>suit in the winter!
>
>Sun coming into the bubble canopy keeps pilot and passenger warm from
>the
>waist up. I have a single heat muff that discharges on the passenger's
>feet.
>
>
>Stephen Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>N227RV (RV-6A flying)
>N222SZ (RV-8 under construction)
>
>-----Original Message-----I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a
>long
>way from worrying
>about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
>concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
>with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
>fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
>anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
>weather?
>
>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Murphy" <george(at)atlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
For Sale Completed RV8/A fuselage $10,000.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Cockpit Heat |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Hi Doug,
I think you are coming from the same place I am. The Delta Hawk engine
has me very intrigued and, since my next door neighbor is a GM mechanic,
I have been toying with the idea of "liberating" a complete heating
system from a mini van (so I can have back seat heat) and installing
that in the -8. The biggest potential problem I see with that is
weight. I have no idea at this point how much this system weighs or how
much additional weight I would have to include for insulation, but it is
something worth investigating.
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Ritter [mailto:d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
I'm not at that point yet (just started my RV8 wings) but I really like
the
idea of a water-cooled engine (in particular, the new developing
"diesel")
for many reasons including the nice car-like heating system you get from
a
radiator. What do you think? I'm in the mid-Atlantic but do plan to
fly
high where it's cold.
>
>Hi Stephen,
>
>I guess my expectations are a little high. I was kinda hoping that I
>could have an auto type environment where I could sit in my shirt
>sleeves regardless of the outside temp. Oh, well. I have lots of
time,
>so I'll keep pondering the problem.
>
>Bert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
>To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
>Bert,
>
>I wear a snowmobile suit at temperatures below freezing in my RV-6A. I
>bought a surplus USAF Nomex insulated flight suit that is also very
>comfortable, but a little hard to get on and off. I wear insulated
>boots,
>too. Sorrel boots or Lacrosse work well. I look like I'm ready for ice
>fishing when I'm suited up. I would like to be comfortable if I have to
>land
>in a field or on a frozen lake, so that is another reason to wear a
moon
>suit in the winter!
>
>Sun coming into the bubble canopy keeps pilot and passenger warm from
>the
>waist up. I have a single heat muff that discharges on the passenger's
>feet.
>
>
>Stephen Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>N227RV (RV-6A flying)
>N222SZ (RV-8 under construction)
>
>-----Original Message-----I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a
>long
>way from worrying
>about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit
of
>concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
>with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
>fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
>anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
>weather?
>
>
>>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
What about heated seats as in autos? I think that to be a possible source
of heat, don't know of a source or cost though.
Jim Stone
HR II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
> Hi Stephen,
>
> I guess my expectations are a little high. I was kinda hoping that I
> could have an auto type environment where I could sit in my shirt
> sleeves regardless of the outside temp. Oh, well. I have lots of time,
> so I'll keep pondering the problem.
>
> Bert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
> To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
> Bert,
>
> I wear a snowmobile suit at temperatures below freezing in my RV-6A. I
> bought a surplus USAF Nomex insulated flight suit that is also very
> comfortable, but a little hard to get on and off. I wear insulated
> boots,
> too. Sorrel boots or Lacrosse work well. I look like I'm ready for ice
> fishing when I'm suited up. I would like to be comfortable if I have to
> land
> in a field or on a frozen lake, so that is another reason to wear a moon
> suit in the winter!
>
> Sun coming into the bubble canopy keeps pilot and passenger warm from
> the
> waist up. I have a single heat muff that discharges on the passenger's
> feet.
>
>
> Stephen Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> N227RV (RV-6A flying)
> N222SZ (RV-8 under construction)
>
> -----Original Message-----I just purchased an RV-8 empennage, so I am a
> long
> way from worrying
> about heat, but since I live in Canada, one thing that has been a bit of
> concern for me is operating an RV in the winter. It seems to me that,
> with just a thin sheet of al between me and the outside, there is a
> fairly high potential for very cold and uncomfortable flying. Has
> anyone spent much time flying their RV in very cold (-20 to -40)
> weather?
>
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
I purchased a set for my -8. I had DJ at Clevealand install them when they
made my seats. I haven't had the opportunity to use them but the
installations was simple.
Rick McBride
n a message dated 1/4/03 6:46:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jrstone(at)insightbb.com writes:
>
> What about heated seats as in autos? I think that to be a possible source
> of heat, don't know of a source or cost though.
> Jim Stone
> HR II
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
Rick,
Where did you get them? What auto seat were they designed for? How much
did they cost? Do you know how many amps they draw?
Thanks,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <RICKRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
> I purchased a set for my -8. I had DJ at Clevealand install them when
they
> made my seats. I haven't had the opportunity to use them but the
> installations was simple.
>
> Rick McBride
>
> n a message dated 1/4/03 6:46:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jrstone(at)insightbb.com writes:
>
> >
> > What about heated seats as in autos? I think that to be a possible
source
> > of heat, don't know of a source or cost though.
> > Jim Stone
> > HR II
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
I purchase mine from a local upholstery shop. They are made by Check Corp.
at www.checkcorp.com. The web site lists suppliers.
They are generic in
nature and can be applied to most style of seats. I paid $96.00 including
local tax for each seat. I have the on/off version. They also make a
hi-low-off version as well. One seat draws 6.1 amps at 13.8 volts.
Hope this helps.
Rick McBride
In a message dated 1/5/03 8:41:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jrstone(at)insightbb.com writes:
>
> Rick,
> Where did you get them? What auto seat were they designed for? How much
> did they cost? Do you know how many amps they draw?
> Thanks,
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RICKRV6(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rear Cockpit Heat
>
>
> >
> >I purchased a set for my -8. I had DJ at Clevealand install them when
> they
> >made my seats. I haven't had the opportunity to use them but the
> >installations was simple.
> >
> >Rick McBride
> >
> >n a message dated 1/4/03 6:46:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >jrstone(at)insightbb.com writes:
> >
> >>
> >>What about heated seats as in autos? I think that to be a possible
> source
> >>of heat, don't know of a source or cost though.
> >>Jim Stone
> >>HR II
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Rv 8 cockpit heat - rear |
Listers,
I have been reading all of the various posts recently regarding heat for the
RV8 (in particular the rear seat) in the winter time. I do not claim to be
an expert on this subject, however, I do live in Wisconsin, I do fly year around,
and it is cold here in the winter time average temps are 32 degrees to -10
degrees. I am now on my fourth winter and have 640 hours, of which 200 plus
have been in the winter. I learned immediately that one heat muff was insufficient,
so I immediately install a second 3 year ago. This helped, but it still was
not comfortable. I then realized that the problem was not from insufficient
heat source, but more from a substantial infiltration of cool air from the rear
of the canopy. When I built my airplane, I spent a lot of time insuring that
the seal of the sliding canopy fit like a glove. Needless to say, that first
winter I was most unhappy when I still got cold in the winter. It seems that
when the temperature goes below 32 degrees, the canopy shrinks approximately
3/32 inch in length which in turn causes the canopy to raise up at the rear
approximately 1/8 to 5/32 inches. Since their is a high pressure area at the
rear of the airplane on the RV8 the results were predictable. That is, a strong
inflow of fresh cold air and no amount of hot air from the twin heat sources
could overcome. After trying various methods of additional sealing of the canopy,
I finally tried a horseshoe shaped piece of upholstery foam 2 inches thick,
appropriately shaped with my wifes electric kitchen knife to fit the contour
of the fuselage/canopy juncture. She sewed a cloth cover for it, and I attached
it with velcrow so that it could be easily installed and removed. I is now
going on the third year and still functions well. The rear seat is still not
as toasty as the front, however, it is comfortable. I hope that this is of some
help to all of you, expecially those who still have not flown their RV8s in
the winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Rv 8 cockpit heat - rear |
Listers,
I have been reading all of the various posts recently regarding heat for the
RV8 (in particular the rear seat) in the winter time. I do not claim to be
an expert on this subject, however, I do live in Wisconsin, I do fly year around,
and it is cold here in the winter time average temps are 32 degrees to -10
degrees. I am now on my fourth winter and have 640 hours, of which 200 plus
have been in the winter. I learned immediately that one heat muff was insufficient,
so I immediately install a second 3 year ago. This helped, but it still was
not comfortable. I then realized that the problem was not from insufficient
heat source, but more from a substantial infiltration of cool air from the rear
of the canopy. When I built my airplane, I spent a lot of time insuring that
the seal of the sliding canopy fit like a glove. Needless to say, that first
winter I was most unhappy when I still got cold in the winter. It seems that
when the temperature goes below 32 degrees, the canopy shrinks approximately
3/32 inch in length which in turn causes the canopy to raise up at the rear
approximately 1/8 to 5/32 inches. Since their is a high pressure area at the
rear of the airplane on the RV8 the results were predictable. That is, a strong
inflow of fresh cold air and no amount of hot air from the twin heat sources
could overcome. After trying various methods of additional sealing of the canopy,
I finally tried a horseshoe shaped piece of upholstery foam 2 inches thick,
appropriately shaped with my wifes electric kitchen knife to fit the contour
of the fuselage/canopy juncture. She sewed a cloth cover for it, and I attached
it with velcrow so that it could be easily installed and removed. I is now
going on the third year and still functions well. The rear seat is still not
as toasty as the front, however, it is comfortable. I hope that this is of some
help to all of you, expecially those who still have not flown their RV8s in
the winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical or horizontal induction |
Dear friends,
My Father and building partner are clipping along on our fuselage and
have ordered our finish kit recently. We have not yet bought a motor
but we are considering the superior xp360 injected version. It is a
parallel valve with a vertical induction. My question is how much
drag does the chin scoop create with the vertical induction?
Does the slight boost from the ram air on a chin scoop version outweigh
the lack of drag from a non chin scoop cowl that is used with horizontal
induction? Does anyone have any hard numbers to compare the 2 cowl
versions?. I think the xp360 can be converted to a horizontal draft
induction but is it worth the bother? Any comments would be
appreciated. The bottom line is given the same motor which cowl is
faster, chin scoop or non chin scoop?
Shane Summerhays
Salt Lake City Utah
Flying rv6
Fuse rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
I have flown my 8 in 0 degree F temps with my leather flight jacket and have
been comfortable. I have the biggest heat muf that van sells. I filled it
with pieces of door springs. Have not had anyone in the back seat in real
cold weather, but have had no complainta anytime.
Stan N188sm
75 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Cockpit Heat |
I have flown my 8 at o degree F. without any heat problems. I wear a leather
flight jacket. I have the largest heat muff van sells and filled it with
prices of door springs.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Malecha" <azflyer(at)theriver.com> |
I'm in need of a set of wheels and brakes for my RV-8, including axles, spacers,
mounting hardware, etc.
AL Malecha
azflyer(at)theriver.com
phone 928-474-9121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: e:%20RV8-List:%20Rv%208%20cockpit%20heat%20%20-%20%20rear |
Regarding rear seat heat in the RV-8, I found the following info on a Rocket
info web site and it may provide useful info for solving the -8 heating
problem. It sounds as though these guys use a vent in the aft end of the
plane to draw the heat to the back seat instead of forcing the warm air to
the back.
The text from the web site follows:
To those of you who want better air flow through (hot and cold) the cockpit
with smaller systems providing you with greater comfort, you need to stop the
battle of inlet air coming from the front of the plane (your design) with
that coming from the tail (and to some extent from the wings, rear canopy
skirt, flap rod holes, etc.). The RV-4 tail PUMPS!!! and I suspect that the
other designs do also.
After 35 hrs. in the back of an RV-4, X-country, that had a single hole in
the fire wall (no hoses in cockpit) providing heat evenly to the cockpit
(front and back) I wanted to know how it worked so well. Other RV's didn't
work this well, including mine. Sleeping under the wing, I spotted a hole in
the center of the belly of the tail cone that turned out to be one of those
plastic NACA ducts BACKWARDS (located 49" ahead of the back end of the
fuselage). WAS this it? I wasn't about to cut up my bird to find out. The
owner had purchased the RV-4 and had no idea why it was there. He thought it
was part of the design (no hoses to it).
Here is how I improved cockpit comfort: To stop cold air from coming in and
freezing certain body parts: 1) I sewed up some boots for the aileron push
tubes from light weight synthetic Swede leather (women's garment from the
GoodWill provided the material). 2) Sealed the canopy to canopy rails with
"P-Strip" from Van's. 3) Sealed the front of the canopy to the cowl boot
with the silicone pressed into plastic wrap. 4) Sealed the front right
corner of the canopy to canopy rail with a piece of foam wedge. 5) Covered
the flap arms with a shaped aluminum panel (this was for safety also). No
problem with rear skirts because I don't have them. No stick boots either
but maybe one day. The lack of stick boots does allow for airflow under the
floorboards but I'm not sure that this is an advantage. All of this sealing
improved the situation.
My source of fresh air is a 7/8" hole in the left wing root fairing, plumbed
with 1" hose to an instrument panel mounted Wemac(sp) ball. My source of hot
air is a standard heat exchanger through a 1.5" valve (Lancair) on the center
of the firewall. In the future I will be adding some general purpose cooling
air near the rudder pedals with a valve. Right now I am bypassing the heat
exchanger in the summer. Before I made the previously mentioned changes,
this is what happened. I would open my vents and would receive a blast of
air that would then diminish as the cockpit would pressurize. The fight was
on between the front air and the tail air. The "front lines" (front lines=
that point where the two pressure fronts meet) were at the cockpit. Without
stick boots I have plenty of openings front to back under the floor boards.
With stick boots I would have to open a 2" (min.) hole in the back of the
baggage compartment (in a location where baggage would not block it). The
RV-4 has enough of an air flow leak around the back seat to the baggage
compartment.
Optimizing the ventilation: 1) Remember that I didn't want to cut a reverse
NACA Duct in my RV's belly? It so happens that I have an inspection hole
forward of the first tail bulkheads (this was to get at the bolts that hold
my tail on. I made up a second cover plate for that hole, cut an 1 1/4" hole
in it and made a fiberglass cover for the hole that looks like a rounded over
half of a jar lid. Think of it as a reverse scoop. The trailing edge of this
device is a 1/2" above the cover plate surface. The rounded over leading edge
is a 3/16"radius (from the side it looks like the top half of a wing leading
edge) and the purpose is to create a low pressure area over the hole. I
haven't sewn a boot for the elevator push tube at that first tail bulkhead
yet, but I moved the battle "front lines" back to the tail where the air flow
is vented via the device I made up. I now have so much hot air that I can't
open the valve but a crack. 2) Seal the tail off with a boot and put a
reverse something NACA duct (inset) or low pressure device (outset) forward
of the booted bulkhead on the belly or wherever. My proof of concept part is
just under the leading edge of the left horizontal stab. (remember that it is
also an inspection cover).
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A QB Empennage installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical or horizontal induction |
Shane,
Neither cowl version will give you much of a speed improvement.
If you wish to go faster, consider the Sam James Cowl aka "holy cowl or NACA
cowl" with a plenum chamber also from Sam James. Use a fuel injected engine
with a forward facing horizontal induction. This combination will yield a minimum
speed increase of 10 mph and also a boost in manifold pressure of 1 to 2 inches
depending on temperature and altitude. Also, this combo will substantially
improve both oil cooling and CHTs. Oil cooler should be intalled on the rear
of #3 cylinder tilted down approx 25 degrees. DO NOT USE a Positech oil cooler
on this installation. I tried one and had very bad results. (inadequate cooling).
I used a NIAGARA 10 row cooler. If you are using the 180 hp version, the 9
row cooler should be large enough. I would also suggest that you seriously
consider a Lightspeed electronic ignition. It will save you up ;to 5% in fuel
consumption, and will give you a boost in power. HOT starts are a non event
with a Lightspeed.
Go Faster.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>Dear friends,
>
>My Father and building partner are clipping along on our fuselage and
>have ordered our finish kit recently. We have not yet bought a motor
>but we are considering the superior xp360 injected version. It is a
>parallel valve with a vertical induction. My question is how much
>drag does the chin scoop create with the vertical induction?
>Does the slight boost from the ram air on a chin scoop version outweigh
>the lack of drag from a non chin scoop cowl that is used with horizontal
>induction? Does anyone have any hard numbers to compare the 2 cowl
>versions?. I think the xp360 can be converted to a horizontal draft
>induction but is it worth the bother? Any comments would be
>appreciated. The bottom line is given the same motor which cowl is
>faster, chin scoop or non chin scoop?
>Shane Summerhays
>Salt Lake City Utah
>Flying rv6
>Fuse rv8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical or horizontal induction |
I second all that is said here. This is my EXACT set up.
HOWEVER, you must be warned, if you plan on doing this for a 6 or 7, it will
add MONTHS to your building process. These 'improvements' take a lot of
wrangling and customizing to make them work. Dick's experience is with an 8,
which apparently fits better. I would suggest that these 'improvments'
added an additional 6 months to my project (possibly more). The amount of
extra work required cannot be overstated. I've written on this subject in
the past, so will say no more. Its a great set up when its done, however!
Photos here, including photos of the cowl, plenum, etc:
http://www.steinair.com/jn
jim
tampa
6a
Fast
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of richard martin
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Vertical or horizontal induction
Shane,
Neither cowl version will give you much of a speed improvement.
If you wish to go faster, consider the Sam James Cowl aka "holy cowl or NACA
cowl" with a plenum chamber also from Sam James. Use a fuel injected engine
with a forward facing horizontal induction. This combination will yield a
minimum
speed increase of 10 mph and also a boost in manifold pressure of 1 to 2
inches
depending on temperature and altitude. Also, this combo will substantially
improve both oil cooling and CHTs. Oil cooler should be intalled on the
rear
of #3 cylinder tilted down approx 25 degrees. DO NOT USE a Positech oil
cooler
on this installation. I tried one and had very bad results. (inadequate
cooling).
I used a NIAGARA 10 row cooler. If you are using the 180 hp version, the 9
row cooler should be large enough. I would also suggest that you seriously
consider a Lightspeed electronic ignition. It will save you up ;to 5% in
fuel
consumption, and will give you a boost in power. HOT starts are a non event
with a Lightspeed.
Go Faster.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>Dear friends,
>
>My Father and building partner are clipping along on our fuselage and
>have ordered our finish kit recently. We have not yet bought a motor
>but we are considering the superior xp360 injected version. It is a
>parallel valve with a vertical induction. My question is how much
>drag does the chin scoop create with the vertical induction?
>Does the slight boost from the ram air on a chin scoop version outweigh
>the lack of drag from a non chin scoop cowl that is used with horizontal
>induction? Does anyone have any hard numbers to compare the 2 cowl
>versions?. I think the xp360 can be converted to a horizontal draft
>induction but is it worth the bother? Any comments would be
>appreciated. The bottom line is given the same motor which cowl is
>faster, chin scoop or non chin scoop?
>Shane Summerhays
>Salt Lake City Utah
>Flying rv6
>Fuse rv8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
I will begin work on my Sam James cowlingl soon and planned to use Skybot
fastners at the firewall and the standard hinge along the horizontal part
of the cowl. Has this combo worked for others? If so did you use the
standard hinge or the extruded type? Also, would it be necessary to use
hinge with a wider flange then the sandard P2 hinge? I noticed on Jim
Normans's web site that this is what he did on his Sam James version.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vertical or horizontal induction |
New RV8 canopy for sale, still in the plastic wrap. Located Fargo ND. $375.
I ordered a new darker tint canopy for my 8.
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Malecha" <azflyer(at)theriver.com> |
I recently saw on someone's website a "tailstand/jack" assembly that someone is
making for RV8. Does anyone have that info. Thanks,
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
You can find all the info @ www.tail-mate.com Karl in Indy RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Malecha [mailto:azflyer(at)theriver.com]
Subject: RV8-List: re:Tail stand
I recently saw on someone's website a "tailstand/jack" assembly that someone
is making for RV8. Does anyone have that info. Thanks,
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges |
I know quite a few people who have combined hinges and SkyBolt fastners on
their cowls, and everybody that I've talked to has liked it a lot.
I use hinges along the sides where the two cowl halves meet, and also on the
bottom half of the cowl on the vertical surfaces. I use SkyBolt fasteners
along the very bottom of the cowl/firewall interface, and along the entire
top cowl against the firewall. My hangar mate Don Hughes uses the exact
same set up. We both like it a lot. We can get our top cowls off in about a
minute, and the look is very good.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed OConnor
Subject: RV8-List: Cowling, Mixing Skybotl & Hinges
I will begin work on my Sam James cowlingl soon and planned to use Skybot
fastners at the firewall and the standard hinge along the horizontal part
of the cowl. Has this combo worked for others? If so did you use the
standard hinge or the extruded type? Also, would it be necessary to use
hinge with a wider flange then the sandard P2 hinge? I noticed on Jim
Normans's web site that this is what he did on his Sam James version.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] spring back dimple dies |
Robert,
Simple. They are the only dies that will produce a perfect dimple every time.
They totally eliminate shaving or dressing rivet heads. I have tried every
brand and type of die. For Sale--slightly used cheap dimple dies. Price -
cheap. Save your money, buy the best dimple dies first.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
Hello Group, Happy New Year!
Can someone enlighten me on the advantages to the spring back Dimple
Dies?
Thank You in Advance.....Robert
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Terms of Service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Hartwell Latches |
Try B & B Aircraft Supplies, Gardner, Kansas. Sorry, don"t have number. They
advertise in Sport Aviation and Trade A Plane.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
Where can I find a couple of Hartwell latches
suitable for installation on an oil access door?
The commonly available model H-2000-2 is NOT suitable
for my installation. I am told the model H-4600-C
works perfectly since the catch setback is more
adaptable for this application. A builder who
successfully used the H-4600-C latches on his RV-
6 oil access door said he bought a couple of used
ones at Arlington some years back. Anyone know
of a source new or used?
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Terms of Service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Hartwell Latches |
Arcraft Spruce has the H-5000-2 model that I used on my Long-EZ oil door and
canopy access hatch. 1-877-477-7823.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: richard martin [mailto:martin333(at)athenet.net]
Subject: RV8-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Hartwell Latches
Try B & B Aircraft Supplies, Gardner, Kansas. Sorry, don"t have number.
They
advertise in Sport Aviation and Trade A Plane.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
Where can I find a couple of Hartwell latches
suitable for installation on an oil access door?
The commonly available model H-2000-2 is NOT suitable
for my installation. I am told the model H-4600-C
works perfectly since the catch setback is more
adaptable for this application. A builder who
successfully used the H-4600-C latches on his RV-
6 oil access door said he bought a couple of used
ones at Arlington some years back. Anyone know
of a source new or used?
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Terms of Service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Take Off Performance |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone had real world take off performance numbers
for an RV-8. I know that Van's says 250 ft solo and 500 ft gross, but I
would like to confirm those numbers. I would also like to get a handle
on the take off over a 50' obstacle numbers. The reason I am so
interested is that I would like to build a runway in my back yard, and I
don't have a lot of room plus I have some trees that I will have to
clear at the end.
Thanks
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Take Off Performance |
Bert,
I have an RV-4 (IO-320, 180 hp, fixed pitch prop) and my own dirt strip.
The 4 is similar to the 8 in take off & landing specs. I can tell you that
doubling the distance is a very good idea, due to the fact that "real world"
performance on a daily basis is not as Rosie as Van's fact sheet. I know I
can take off in about 300 feet & land in about 500 feet, but God help me if
there are any complicating factors. My runway is 1800 feet and only has
obstacles at one end (big trees, powerlines, house, equipment, etc...) But
the wind does blow and there have been rare times that I needed almost all
of that field. Good luck & double whatever length you think is "good" so
that you are "safe".
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Bert Penney <van(at)entechnos.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Take Off Performance
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was wondering if anyone had real world take off performance numbers
> for an RV-8. I know that Van's says 250 ft solo and 500 ft gross, but I
> would like to confirm those numbers. I would also like to get a handle
> on the take off over a 50' obstacle numbers. The reason I am so
> interested is that I would like to build a runway in my back yard, and I
> don't have a lot of room plus I have some trees that I will have to
> clear at the end.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Take Off Performance |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Justin Hagemeier <jhagem(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Take Off Performance |
Hi Bert,
I don't think that anything less than 1500
is safe. At least here in Arkansas at 700 MSL where
I am at with an average summertime density altitude of
2000 feet. I wouldn't want a runway that required
nothing less than absolute precision in takeoff and
landing technique and weight calculation. I soloed
out of an 1800 ft. strip with obstacles on both ends,
and that was tight enough. Besides a bigger strip
would let other things besides your RV or a Cub to
land. Which you might want if you have friends who
would fly over.
Good Luck,
Justin Hagemeier
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Take Off Performance |
Bert,
Forget it, 700' is too short. Like I said, if I bought some land to have my
own runway I would not consider less than 1500 feet. To regulairily try
landing with less than half that means you would have to be a rock star
every time. Do you like approaching at the very edge of stall? Do you have a
calibrated AOA on your dash? Do you have thousands of hours in type? Does
your 700' have perfect no obstruction approaches at both ends? Are there
neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe cubes roaring over
at 20'AGL? Forget it Bert, it's not safe.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
> Hi Norman,
>
> I believe that I can squeeze about 700' out of my lot for a runway.
> What first started me thinking about building a runway was the intro
> video from Van's. In it, they say that Van lived on a farm with a 650'
> runway. It seemed to imply that he had used that runway for at least
> his early designs so I thought if he can use 650', 700' ought to work.
> To be safe, though, I thought that I would restrict my take off and
> landing weights to around that of solo operations (1600 lb ?).
>
> Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Take Off Performance |
Bert -
I've got 454 hrs on my -8, with 98% of that out of a 2000' grass strip at
40' MSL. Unless you're operating with a low density alt and have quite a
bit of RV time, I wouldn't recommend less than 1000' for regular operations.
And this isn't counting much more than small trees and brush at the end of
the runway. 50-75' trees - may want 150-200% more runway.
Problem with RV's is you can't "drop them in" like a Cub or lightly loaded
Cessna. Get an RV slow, and it sinks like a rock. You try dropping it in,
and you'll end up with an accelerated stall as you're yanking the nose up at
5-10' agl. BTDT - no damage fortunately.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Hi All,
>
>I was wondering if anyone had real world take off performance numbers
>for an RV-8. I know that Van's says 250 ft solo and 500 ft gross, but I
>would like to confirm those numbers. I would also like to get a handle
>on the take off over a 50' obstacle numbers. The reason I am so
>interested is that I would like to build a runway in my back yard, and I
>don't have a lot of room plus I have some trees that I will have to
>clear at the end.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Take Off Performance |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Thank you all for your responses. I guess I'll shelve that idea :-)
I did send an email to Van's earlier about the possibility of
incorporating droop ailerons on the 8 and, if you are interested, I will
post their reply here.
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: RV_8 Pilot [mailto:rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Take Off Performance
Bert -
I've got 454 hrs on my -8, with 98% of that out of a 2000' grass strip
at
40' MSL. Unless you're operating with a low density alt and have quite
a
bit of RV time, I wouldn't recommend less than 1000' for regular
operations.
And this isn't counting much more than small trees and brush at the
end of
the runway. 50-75' trees - may want 150-200% more runway.
Problem with RV's is you can't "drop them in" like a Cub or lightly
loaded
Cessna. Get an RV slow, and it sinks like a rock. You try dropping it
in,
and you'll end up with an accelerated stall as you're yanking the nose
up at
5-10' agl. BTDT - no damage fortunately.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>Hi All,
>
>I was wondering if anyone had real world take off performance numbers
>for an RV-8. I know that Van's says 250 ft solo and 500 ft gross, but
I
>would like to confirm those numbers. I would also like to get a handle
>on the take off over a 50' obstacle numbers. The reason I am so
>interested is that I would like to build a runway in my back yard, and
I
>don't have a lot of room plus I have some trees that I will have to
>clear at the end.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Hi All,
Here's Ken Scott's response to my query (posted with his permission).
His response seems to be in line with that of most on this list: Using
a 700' strip in an RV-8 is do-able, but not recommended.
He also mentions VG's as Rob Ray has and I think I will look into them
as well. They are a lot simpler than drooped ailerons ans easier to
install and maintain.
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Scott [mailto:kens(at)vansaircraft.com]
Subject: Re: RV-8 STOL
Van operates RVs out of a 660' strip (with good approaches)
without undue drama...however, Van is a better pilot than most of
us. Getting out of a strip that length, especially with a constant
speed prop, should be relatively easy. Getting in will test your
skills every time.
We really don't have any suggestions about lowering the stall
speed, other than keeping the airplane as light as humanly
possible. Van tried drooping ailerons on the RV-3 (which has a
very similar wing) and discarded the idea as not providing enough
benefit for the cost in complexity.
A few pilots are experimenting with vortex generators and claim
lowered stall speeds. We have not had the opportunity to try them
here.
If I were faced with consistent landings on a strip that short, I'd
want the RV-8A, which I find that I can consistently land in a
shorter distance than I can the RV-8.
Understand that full-stall landings are a difficult thing in an RV.
Usually you fly the airplane onto the ground several knots above
stall, so even if you touch down at a low 60 mph, you're traveling 88
feet per second. That means that if you mis-judge by ONE
second, you've used up about 12% of your strip. Two seconds
(one...two...) and you're in the hole by 25%.
I'd think very hard before operating out of 700'. It's doable, but you
will have to fly very consistently and very accurately.
Forwarded by: "Support"
Forwarded to: KenS
Subject: RV-8 STOL
From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
Hi,
I wasn't sure if this is the proper place to pose questions about
aircraft mods, but I thought I'd try.
I am in the early stages of building my RV-8 (empennage) and I have
been giving some consideration to building a runway on my property.
The problem is, I have around 700' max that I can use for a runway.
I know that the specs say that, solo, an 8 will take off in 250' and,
at
gross, in 500'. That doesn't give me a lot of comfort, especially as
the 8 approaches gross. Since I can't increase the length of the
runway, I figured I should look at some way to decrease the 8's runway
requirements. The most obvious way is to decrease the 8's stall
speed. With that in mind, I thought that including some way of
drooping the ailerons to assist the flaps would be a good option. Do
you have any plans available to droop the 8's ailerons? Do you know
of anyone who has done it in the past? Do you have any suggestions as
to how I might do that or if I should avoid trying it? Any other
suggestions to lower the stall speed?
Thank you for your time
Bert Penney
80821
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New books for Homebuilders |
| From: | sonja.englert(at)juno.com |
Hi everyone,
I would like to introduce myself to this group. I am an aeronautical engineer,
pilot, airplane homebuilder and writer. I have written 3 new books for airplane
homebuilders, which you can check out on my web page www.caroengineering.com.
They are mainly for airplane homebuilders, but should be of interest to anyone
who wants to install engines, work with composites or flight test an airplane.
Cheers,
Sonja Englert
www.caroengineering.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: Backyard Runway |
>Are there neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe
cubes roaring over at 20'AGL?
Come on, no challenge is too difficult for homebuilders.
But . . . after Bert buys up at least a 1,500 foot strip of adjoining
property from his neighbors for a minimal landing strip . . . he will
then find himself in the position of municipal airports who must keep
puchasing complaining neighbor's properties or sound proofing their
homes.
If buying up the neighborhood is still cheaper than paying a few decades
of hanger rent at the local airport, it's a thought.
Otherwise, aren't there some helicopter kits out there?
Pete Cowper
Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
RV-8 #81139
N666PC reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Not to start anything,But....
With the low wing setup as in the RVs,with sumps in the wing, what is your
view on whether or not to install a gascolator in the RV8?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Backyard Runway |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
The noise is something that I have been concerned about. The approach
path to the runway would not fly over any buildings, but there are
houses to each side of the path. I don't have an answer yet, but I want
to take steps to tone down the noise. My first thought was that, what
ever engine I eventually decide on, it should be turbo'd. Does anyone
have any suggestions as to how a person could make the plane quieter?
How about anyone from Europe? I understand that the noise regulations
there are quite a bit more stringent than they are here. Is that true?
If so, what steps do you take to keep the noise down? I live on the
prairies and, as a redneck, am qualified to put stacks on my plane, but
I think they might be a bit draggy :-)
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Cowper [mailto:pcowper(at)webtv.net]
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
>Are there neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe
cubes roaring over at 20'AGL?
Come on, no challenge is too difficult for homebuilders.
But . . . after Bert buys up at least a 1,500 foot strip of adjoining
property from his neighbors for a minimal landing strip . . . he will
then find himself in the position of municipal airports who must keep
puchasing complaining neighbor's properties or sound proofing their
homes.
If buying up the neighborhood is still cheaper than paying a few decades
of hanger rent at the local airport, it's a thought.
Otherwise, aren't there some helicopter kits out there?
Pete Cowper
Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
RV-8 #81139
N666PC reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
For the reasons you gave, talking with Van's, and Airflow Performance. I
did not install mine.
>
>
>Not to start anything,But....
>With the low wing setup as in the RVs,with sumps in the wing, what is your
>view on whether or not to install a gascolator in the RV8?
>Thanks
>Al Grajek
>RV8 Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Al,
I got 816 hits on "gascolator" on the Matronics RV list. There has been a
lot of discussion about it.
Terry
RV-8A finish
Seattle
Not to start anything,But....
With the low wing setup as in the RVs,with sumps in the wing, what is your
view on whether or not to install a gascolator in the RV8?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Thanks a lot,Scott!
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Gascolator
For the reasons you gave, talking with Van's, and Airflow Performance. I
did not install mine.
>
>
>Not to start anything,But....
>With the low wing setup as in the RVs,with sumps in the wing, what is your
>view on whether or not to install a gascolator in the RV8?
>Thanks
>Al Grajek
>RV8 Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
I am not installing one either. I will be watching the AP filter carefully
during early engine runs and taxi testing. Tanks may have metal chips and
proseal debris even after careful cleaning. Keeping tanks full cuts down on
water also.
Bill, RV6 slowbuild
Reisterstown MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FSmith9890(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List gascolator |
I removed the gascolater in my RV-4 about 2 years ago and installed an
automotive type in line filter in the line from each tank to the fuel valve.
This doesn't remove any water but will catch all the trash. Call it a
"trash filter". It has worked fine and was brought on by finding lots of
small specks of black proseal in the tank drain. All the water is drained
from the tank. In my case I also have a 13 gallon tank in the bagage
compartment which also has an inline filter. The filters have a large
capacity and only need to be replaced at annual or later. A futher
advantage is that this set up also reduces the possibility of vapor lock.
FWIW Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Backyard Runway |
Hi Bert,
I build a RV8 in Germany and installed two silencer in the lower part of the cowling.
They work well. Regulations require a maximum noise of 72 dBa, which will
be achieved by this method. I hope to put some pictures in the net next month.
Stephan Servatius
80303
Ready to fly, waiting for authorization
"Bert Penney" schrieb:
>
> The noise is something that I have been concerned about. The approach
> path to the runway would not fly over any buildings, but there are
> houses to each side of the path. I don't have an answer yet, but I want
> to take steps to tone down the noise. My first thought was that, what
> ever engine I eventually decide on, it should be turbo'd. Does anyone
> have any suggestions as to how a person could make the plane quieter?
> How about anyone from Europe? I understand that the noise regulations
> there are quite a bit more stringent than they are here. Is that true?
> If so, what steps do you take to keep the noise down? I live on the
> prairies and, as a redneck, am qualified to put stacks on my plane, but
> I think they might be a bit draggy :-)
>
> Bert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pete Cowper [mailto:pcowper(at)webtv.net]
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
>
>
> >Are there neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe
> cubes roaring over at 20'AGL?
>
> Come on, no challenge is too difficult for homebuilders.
>
> But . . . after Bert buys up at least a 1,500 foot strip of adjoining
> property from his neighbors for a minimal landing strip . . . he will
> then find himself in the position of municipal airports who must keep
> puchasing complaining neighbor's properties or sound proofing their
> homes.
>
> If buying up the neighborhood is still cheaper than paying a few decades
> of hanger rent at the local airport, it's a thought.
>
> Otherwise, aren't there some helicopter kits out there?
>
> Pete Cowper
> Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
> RV-8 #81139
> N666PC reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Backyard Runway |
| From: | "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com> |
Just how loud is 72 dBa? I have a neighbor who has a Dodge diesel and I
swear it is louder than any Cessna I've ever heard (except for the 185),
but I have no idea what the sound level is.
I'm glad to hear that there are silencers available. What kind of
engine do you have in your aircraft? I have been toying with the
possibility of buying a Delta Hawk diesel for a number of reasons
including sound levels, but judging from the comments being made in
rec.aviation.homebuilt, getting insurance with anything other than a
certified engine under the hood is getting very difficult and expensive.
Bert
-----Original Message-----
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de [mailto:romeo.victor@t-online.de]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
Hi Bert,
I build a RV8 in Germany and installed two silencer in the lower part of
the cowling. They work well. Regulations require a maximum noise of 72
dBa, which will be achieved by this method. I hope to put some pictures
in the net next month.
Stephan Servatius
80303
Ready to fly, waiting for authorization
"Bert Penney" schrieb:
>
> The noise is something that I have been concerned about. The approach
> path to the runway would not fly over any buildings, but there are
> houses to each side of the path. I don't have an answer yet, but I
want
> to take steps to tone down the noise. My first thought was that, what
> ever engine I eventually decide on, it should be turbo'd. Does anyone
> have any suggestions as to how a person could make the plane quieter?
> How about anyone from Europe? I understand that the noise regulations
> there are quite a bit more stringent than they are here. Is that
true?
> If so, what steps do you take to keep the noise down? I live on the
> prairies and, as a redneck, am qualified to put stacks on my plane,
but
> I think they might be a bit draggy :-)
>
> Bert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pete Cowper [mailto:pcowper(at)webtv.net]
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
>
>
> >Are there neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe
> cubes roaring over at 20'AGL?
>
> Come on, no challenge is too difficult for homebuilders.
>
> But . . . after Bert buys up at least a 1,500 foot strip of adjoining
> property from his neighbors for a minimal landing strip . . . he will
> then find himself in the position of municipal airports who must keep
> puchasing complaining neighbor's properties or sound proofing their
> homes.
>
> If buying up the neighborhood is still cheaper than paying a few
decades
> of hanger rent at the local airport, it's a thought.
>
> Otherwise, aren't there some helicopter kits out there?
>
> Pete Cowper
> Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
> RV-8 #81139
> N666PC reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/20/03 |
hello - is it possible for you to take me off your exellent list ???
i am travelling a lot- but ntakes too much time go through all messages when
I am on the road and very timeconsuming delete them with our system
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RV8-List Digest Server [mailto:rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: 21. januar 2003 08:57
> To: RV8-List Digest List
> Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/20/03
>
>
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes
> the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
> Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the
> plain ASCII
> version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> 01-20.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> 01-20.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 01/20/03: 1
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Backyard Runway (Bert Penney)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
> From: "Bert Penney" <van(at)entechnos.com>
>
>
> Just how loud is 72 dBa? I have a neighbor who has a Dodge
> diesel and I
> swear it is louder than any Cessna I've ever heard (except
> for the 185),
> but I have no idea what the sound level is.
>
> I'm glad to hear that there are silencers available. What kind of
> engine do you have in your aircraft? I have been toying with the
> possibility of buying a Delta Hawk diesel for a number of reasons
> including sound levels, but judging from the comments being made in
> rec.aviation.homebuilt, getting insurance with anything other than a
> certified engine under the hood is getting very difficult and
> expensive.
>
> Bert
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: romeo.victor@t-online.de [mailto:romeo.victor@t-online.de]
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
>
>
> Hi Bert,
>
> I build a RV8 in Germany and installed two silencer in the
> lower part of
> the cowling. They work well. Regulations require a maximum
> noise of 72
> dBa, which will be achieved by this method. I hope to put
> some pictures
> in the net next month.
>
> Stephan Servatius
> 80303
> Ready to fly, waiting for authorization
>
>
> "Bert Penney" schrieb:
> >
> > The noise is something that I have been concerned about.
> The approach
> > path to the runway would not fly over any buildings, but there are
> > houses to each side of the path. I don't have an answer yet, but I
> want
> > to take steps to tone down the noise. My first thought was
> that, what
> > ever engine I eventually decide on, it should be turbo'd.
> Does anyone
> > have any suggestions as to how a person could make the
> plane quieter?
> > How about anyone from Europe? I understand that the noise
> regulations
> > there are quite a bit more stringent than they are here. Is that
> true?
> > If so, what steps do you take to keep the noise down? I live on the
> > prairies and, as a redneck, am qualified to put stacks on my plane,
> but
> > I think they might be a bit draggy :-)
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Pete Cowper [mailto:pcowper(at)webtv.net]
> > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Re: Backyard Runway
> >
> >
> > >Are there neighbors living there that don't mind 360 straight pipe
> > cubes roaring over at 20'AGL?
> >
> > Come on, no challenge is too difficult for homebuilders.
> >
> > But . . . after Bert buys up at least a 1,500 foot strip
> of adjoining
> > property from his neighbors for a minimal landing strip . .
> . he will
> > then find himself in the position of municipal airports who
> must keep
> > puchasing complaining neighbor's properties or sound proofing their
> > homes.
> >
> > If buying up the neighborhood is still cheaper than paying a few
> decades
> > of hanger rent at the local airport, it's a thought.
> >
> > Otherwise, aren't there some helicopter kits out there?
> >
> > Pete Cowper
> > Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
> > RV-8 #81139
> > N666PC reserved
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>
> Stephan Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> Germany
> Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
> Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
> Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com> |
Well so much for the air drill I picked up at Boeing Surplus, it didn't even
make it through the HS! I'm going to buy new this time but maybe I can
still get away with something not too expensive. Is anyone using the "under
$100" air drills available at Browns or Cleveland and finding them to do the
job just fine or do I really have to fork out a couple hundred for an air
drill? Also, so that I don't have to stop working while waiting for a new
drill, has anyone used their Makita for any work?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
have you looked at US TOOLS?..do they have harbor freight in you aerea>,,or
look in the old favorite trade-a-plane..you will find some good deals there
for sure..but don't give up on boeing..I bought a used air drill there 9
years ago, and still use it every day.. it has done several homebuilts and
repaired a bunch of general av aircraft...blue skys to you..rv8a (almost
completed)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Air drills
>
> Well so much for the air drill I picked up at Boeing Surplus, it didn't
even
> make it through the HS! I'm going to buy new this time but maybe I can
> still get away with something not too expensive. Is anyone using the
"under
> $100" air drills available at Browns or Cleveland and finding them to do
the
> job just fine or do I really have to fork out a couple hundred for an air
> drill? Also, so that I don't have to stop working while waiting for a new
> drill, has anyone used their Makita for any work?
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa
> RV8 emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have used the cheap, harbor freight or norther hyd., drills with good
experience. I also use my Makita, especially the angle one, a lot. I wore
out a $150 vibrating sander and then bought one of the cheap ones. I wore it
out also. I then took both of them apart and replaced the vanes. They were
both the same on the inside. Go cheap on the air tools.
Stan
N188rv, RV-8, flying 13 months with no problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ollie Washburn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ollie Washburn
Subject: RV Tow Bars...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ollie-6a@prodigy.net.01.25.2003/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/27/03 |
version=2.40
Do the landing lights recessed into the sheared fiberglass wing tips
provide equivalent lighting compared to the lights mounted in the
leading edge of an RV6 or any RV for that matter? From a night visibility
standpoint, if I choose the
leading edge to mount the lights, does it matter if you place them just
outboard of the fuel tanks or out next the the wing tip? It would be easier to
install
at the wing tip.
Thanks
Roger Crandell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | oiling drill and rivet gun |
Since directions didn't come with my drill or rivet gun and I've never had
air tools before, how much oil and how often do I oil them? If there isn't
an opening for the oil do I just put some in the connector that the hose
attaches to?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Crowe" <tripacer(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | oiling drill and rivet gun |
Will,
About 3 to 4 drops in the connector for each days use.
Mike Crowe
RV8A waiting on wings
Subject: RV8-List: oiling drill and rivet gun
Since directions didn't come with my drill or rivet gun and I've never had
air tools before, how much oil and how often do I oil them? If there isn't
an opening for the oil do I just put some in the connector that the hose
attaches to?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oiling drill and rivet gun |
Just put a few drops of oil in the air opening when you think of it and it
will be OK.
Tom in Ky
RV8 N38NE reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV8-List: oiling drill and rivet gun
>
> Since directions didn't come with my drill or rivet gun and I've never had
> air tools before, how much oil and how often do I oil them? If there
isn't
> an opening for the oil do I just put some in the connector that the hose
> attaches to?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa
> RV8 Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Orndorff construction tapes for sale |
Have a full set of RV-8 Orndorff construction tapes for sale. Make offer. Terms:
You send check, I UPS tapes.
My 8 is nearly compete.
Francis Butler
Butler Machinery Co.
(701) 298-1758 direct
(701) 476-3208 fax
francis_butler@butler-machinery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesTSherry(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Instructions |
I am finishing the wings on my RV_8 QB. I thought chapter 7 was a very poor
description of the wing assembly for the QB. Chapter 8 for the fuselage is
completely off the mark. I would have liked a QB set of instructions. Vans
says that I need the background knowledge to build the QB fuselage. I would
rather forgo that study and just build the QB. Does anyone know if of a set
of instructions exists for the QB? Thanks Jim Sherry 81191 Boulder Co....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage Instructions |
I'm not aware of any. I have a QB also, and annotate all my instructions
with check boxes beside each operational step. In the case of the fuselage
and wings, I just start at step one, read the instructions, study the plans,
and if that task is already done, check it off and go to the next step. In
addition, I always watch the Orndorf video for that portion of the aircraft
before starting, so as to gain an overview. I've found that this increment
of study required is a very small price to pay for all of the fine work that
our friends in the Philippines or Czechoslovakia have done for us. Remember,
the main justification for the amateur home built subsection of the
experimental category is education! ;-)
William Slaughter
RV-8QB N492WS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
JamesTSherry(at)cs.com
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Fuselage Instructions
I am finishing the wings on my RV_8 QB. I thought chapter 7 was a very poor
description of the wing assembly for the QB. Chapter 8 for the fuselage is
completely off the mark. I would have liked a QB set of instructions. Vans
says that I need the background knowledge to build the QB fuselage. I would
rather forgo that study and just build the QB. Does anyone know if of a set
of instructions exists for the QB? Thanks Jim Sherry 81191 Boulder Co....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fuselage Instructions |
Nice to know that someone else out there feels like the Van's directions
lack a lot on the QB, like where to start and what to do next..... A great
kit, great workmanship, wonderful flying airplane and directions that are
poor at best!
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 Fuselage Instructions
>
> I'm not aware of any. I have a QB also, and annotate all my instructions
> with check boxes beside each operational step. In the case of the fuselage
> and wings, I just start at step one, read the instructions, study the
plans,
> and if that task is already done, check it off and go to the next step. In
> addition, I always watch the Orndorf video for that portion of the
aircraft
> before starting, so as to gain an overview. I've found that this increment
> of study required is a very small price to pay for all of the fine work
that
> our friends in the Philippines or Czechoslovakia have done for us.
Remember,
> the main justification for the amateur home built subsection of the
> experimental category is education! ;-)
>
> William Slaughter
> RV-8QB N492WS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> JamesTSherry(at)cs.com
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Fuselage Instructions
>
>
> I am finishing the wings on my RV_8 QB. I thought chapter 7 was a very
poor
> description of the wing assembly for the QB. Chapter 8 for the fuselage
is
> completely off the mark. I would have liked a QB set of instructions.
Vans
> says that I need the background knowledge to build the QB fuselage. I
would
> rather forgo that study and just build the QB. Does anyone know if of a
set
> of instructions exists for the QB? Thanks Jim Sherry 81191 Boulder Co....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring harness heads up |
I've just had a bad wiring harness experience that I want to share
with you, as it highlights a potential safety problem.
I bought my avionics from a popular avionics vendor, and I had him
make up the wiring harness. Well, this wiring harness has been a
nightmare. Two pins were swapped on the transponder, which meant the
transponder and altitude encode wouldn't talk to each other. I
swapped the pins and everything is OK there now. On the intercom,
the PTT and mic wires were swapped between the Com 1 and Com 2 spots.
If I had selected Com 1 to transmit, I would have been transmitting
on Com 2, but listening on Com 1. OK, I can fix that. I found it on
the bench when I decided to check every wire with an ohmmeter. It
would have been a royal PITA to find and fix if I hadn't found the
problem until I was doing post-installation functional checks.
Well tonight I found the problem that has stopped me in my tracks.
The Com 1 power line is supposed to get a 10a fuse, but the wire is
only 20 AWG. It needs to be 18 AWG if it is going to get a 10a fuse.
If I had simply followed the notes the vendor sent me, and I ever had
a short, I could have a smoking wire before the fuse blew. If I use
a 7a fuse to match the wire I could be looking at nuisance fuse
blowing.
So, please pay close attention to the details of any vendor supplied
wiring harness. Don't simply assume that it must be OK just because
it comes from a reputable vendor.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesTSherry(at)cs.com |
I have enjoyed building my RV-8. I have found that there is very little in
aviation that is easy as "1-2-3." I find the KISS is much more approbate.
Thirty plus years in aviation and I. Have found that if someone has a
Question the answer is not easy until you know it. Every aviation
organization I have been in has strived to find the best way to improve
procedures. If something could be improved,clearified or simplified, aviators
would relay to all concerned. When Van Marketed the QB, he opened up kit
building to a new level. I would just like to see the plans improve with the
product. I built my first computer have rebuilt auto&motorcycle engines. I
went to Orndorffs' class. I have Both the RV-8 videos and From the Gnd Up. I
applaud the folks who built their aircraft he "hard" way. However I do not
want build my aircraft's engine just to understand how it woks! Is there
anyone out there who thinks the chapter(8) is well written and applicable to
the QB? If so I' quit whining. Until then, I would like to know if the
person said it was easy as "1-2-3" built from PLANS Vs the kit (i.e., too
simple). Jim Sherry Boulder Co. 303-530-7106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
I have found that the instructions became more and more vague as I purchase
each portion of the kit. You think they are bad now just imagine what they
were like for the first kit builders. To me a assembled 3 view tells me
everything I need to know. Much like the baffles, the only way I was able
to complete them was by the 1 assembly drawing, the instructions themselves
were not very helpful. The only advise I can give is to read the
instructions with the parts in front of you. Read ahead again with the
parts in front of you. Now go back and read the instructions again with the
parts in front of you. Read one instruction/sentence at a time and do what
it says. I have spent several years writing assy instructions for military
equipment. I was once called out to the line because the instructions "made
no sense". I asked what was wrong and the lady told me I cant build with
these instructions. I said ok, sat down with here and said, read the first
instruction, she did that. I then told here to now do it. We did this for
the second and third instruction. She read the instruction and did the
task. When we were done I asked what the problem was.........she did not
have a answer. From what I understood she was looking at the "big" picture
and getting confused rather than just taking it one step at a time. Just my
2 cents.
>
>I have enjoyed building my RV-8. I have found that there is very little in
>aviation that is easy as "1-2-3." I find the KISS is much more approbate.
>Thirty plus years in aviation and I. Have found that if someone has a
>Question the answer is not easy until you know it. Every aviation
>organization I have been in has strived to find the best way to improve
>procedures. If something could be improved,clearified or simplified, aviators
>would relay to all concerned. When Van Marketed the QB, he opened up kit
>building to a new level. I would just like to see the plans improve with the
>product. I built my first computer have rebuilt auto&motorcycle engines. I
>went to Orndorffs' class. I have Both the RV-8 videos and From the Gnd Up. I
>applaud the folks who built their aircraft he "hard" way. However I do not
>want build my aircraft's engine just to understand how it woks! Is there
>anyone out there who thinks the chapter(8) is well written and applicable to
>the QB? If so I' quit whining. Until then, I would like to know if the
>person said it was easy as "1-2-3" built from PLANS Vs the kit (i.e., too
>simple). Jim Sherry Boulder Co. 303-530-7106
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eyes going south. |
Its amazing as soon as I turned 40 (2 years ago) my eyes started going
south in a big way......at least to me, the optomitrist says its no big
deal. BUT, I have found a way to do a even better job, even if I had 20/20
vision. I purchased a 4x flip-up magnifier. Let me tell you it is now so
easy to get the drill right on the mark. I am finishing the cowl now and
with this magnifier I am doing a much better job. I can see things I never
would have with out it!
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring harness follow up |
I reported yesterday about some problems I had with the vendor
supplied wiring harnesses that I purchased with my avionics. There
were several pairs of wires that were on the wrong pins, and one
power line was only 20 AWG even though it was supposed to get a 10a
fuse.
I received many e-mails, on and off the lists, so please understand
if I don't respond to each one individually.
Today I called the vendor to talk to him. He was very cooperative
and easy to deal with. He said that his employees are supposed to
"ohm out" each harness, but that something obviously went wrong with
my harness. He offered to take the harness back, personally fix all
the problems, and to give it a complete inspection - no charge.
Power line - I originally was concerned that I could be looking at a
possible smoke event if the 20 AWG power line ever shorted. However,
Bob Nuckolls responded that although a 10a fuse was a bit much for a
20 AWG wire, and the wire would get hotter than desired if it ever
shorted, it should not lead to a smoke event.
I discussed this issue with the vendor. He explained that the Garmin
specified 18 AWG wire requires an extra long pin to make room for a
larger crimp area. In his opinion, this long pin has a real risk of
later shorting out against other wires in the connector. He
discussed the issue with his local FAA folks, and convinced them to
allow him to use 20 AWG wire.
Note - this power line "Y's" to go to two pins, so it should be
possible to use 20 AWG wire from the pins to the Y, and 18 AWG wire
the rest of the way. I didn't think to bring this up with the vendor
while I had him on the phone, but I requested he do this in the
letter I sent with the harnesses.
Many people wanted me to name the vendor, as they seemed to want to
stay away from him. That was not the point of my messages. Even
with the issues I had with my wiring harness I am still glad I chose
the vendor I did. Any vendor can make a mistake. The important
thing is how they deal with the mistake.
My story was intended to advise that wiring harnesses should be
completely checked out on the bench before installing them in the
aircraft. Several of my problems would not have been noticed until I
was doing the functional checks after installation, and it would have
been very difficult to find and correct the problems with harness
embedded in the aircraft. Don't just assume that any vendor supplied
part is good without inspecting it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | From the ground up |
Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground up"
that was shown on Discovery Wings.
Thanks
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From the ground up |
The EAA
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From the ground up |
Al,
I purchased same from EAA.
Good Luck,
Dick Jordan
RV8, Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
;
Subject: RV8-List: From the ground up
>
>
> Does anyone know where I could buy the series of videos "from the ground
up"
> that was shown on Discovery Wings.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Seal" <supersonic(at)mail.sisna.com> |
I'm thinking of going with a Superior XP360 engine from Mattituck.
Has anyone bought, installed or maybe even flown one of these
engines?
Boyd Seal
Flying RV6 with A1A, c/s. building RV8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"RV8ListVANS" , "RV List" ,
"VansAirForce"
| Subject: | Anywhere Map GPS for sale |
I have a Anywhere Map GPS with CopmaQ ipaq pocket pc and all accessories for sale.
Used only once. Includes 1 year of updates, PC docking station and all software.
All for $650.00. Compare to $1200.00 New. Contact me at 859-361-9460.
AL Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Anywhere map GPS sold allready! |
My GPS is sold. If the sale falls through ( I have not received money yet),
I will re list. Thanks to all.
AL Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
looking for a damaged or un-built fuse will not be used for flight..need for experiment
canopy frame also needed..please tell me what you have..503-678-3343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)attbi.com> |
Actually I have a few questions here.
What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV-8 emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jtgarner" <jtgarner(at)shentel.net> |
I'm constantly using my band saw (wood cutting blade) to make aluminum
parts. Couldn't be without it. I cut just shy of the line and clean it up
"to the line" with my belt/disk sander.
Tom Garner, RV-8A lower engine cowl.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Will & Lynda
Allen
Subject: RV8-List: HS-404 trim
Actually I have a few questions here.
What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV-8 emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
When trimming Al sheet, try this.
Make your cut in three passes. The first 1/4" away from the line you desire.
The second at 1/8" away from the line and the last near, but still not on
the line. Then finish with a file.
The reason for this progression is that on the first cut small ripples will
remain on the good piece due to the strength of the discard. The smaller
second cut will result in almost no ripple and the third will produce a curl
on the discard and no ripple. After finish filing the you'll have a perfect
edge. As too files; Course files like body files are great. They never load
up. File files require constant brushing with the wire side of a file card
to cut cleanly. Chrome plated medium single cut bastards are the great as
well.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Will & Lynda
Allen
Subject: RV8-List: HS-404 trim
Actually I have a few questions here.
What did most people use to trim the HS404? I'm thinking about buying a
band saw because it seems to me that will be the easiest way to make this
cut and all similar cuts in the future. I've tried aluminum snips but they
seem to make ugly cuts. I bought a pair of left and right handed snips at
Home Depot but I haven't tried those yet. Does anyone know if the snips from
home depot will be any different than the ones at Avery or other aircraft
tool suppliers? Also, is it really necessary to pay $30 for a 24" steel
ruler? Has anyone found these at a normal tool supply company at a more
reasonable prices than over a dollar an inch?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV-8 emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv6-List"
Hi Guys,
Looking for any GOOD suggestions. Here's the problem...
Just finished my RV7 tail kit and was installing the rod end bearings for
the right elevator, when to my surprise I found one of the nutplates (center
one on the right elevator) has NO threads in it!!
Please don't tell me I should have checked them - I already heard
that...from Van's! Who'd a thunk to check those things. After building 3
tail kits, and 1 flying RV6, I've never seen a nutplate with no threads.
Anyway, Van's is still searching for some other answer short of
dissasembling the elevator. If that's the case I'll just build another one
from scratch.
If you have any bright ideas, feel free to let me know!
Just my typical luck, if there is one nutplate in every 2 million that
doesn't get threaded, I'll end up with it!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6/N664SB 90+hrs
RV7/N174SB Trying to finish the tail!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)personnelincorporated.com> |
Boy Stein, that sucks, sorry. You could do an small access plate on the
underside to get at it.
Jack Textor
RV8
DSM
Hi Guys,
Looking for any GOOD suggestions. Here's the problem...
Just finished my RV7 tail kit and was installing the rod end bearings for
the right elevator, when to my surprise I found one of the nutplates (center
one on the right elevator) has NO threads in it!!
Please don't tell me I should have checked them - I already heard
that...from Van's! Who'd a thunk to check those things. After building 3
tail kits, and 1 flying RV6, I've never seen a nutplate with no threads.
Anyway, Van's is still searching for some other answer short of
dissasembling the elevator. If that's the case I'll just build another one
from scratch.
If you have any bright ideas, feel free to let me know!
Just my typical luck, if there is one nutplate in every 2 million that
doesn't get threaded, I'll end up with it!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6/N664SB 90+hrs
RV7/N174SB Trying to finish the tail!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator HELP! |
Why don't you tap it. I wouldn't be self locking but you could use a
head drilled bolt and safety wire it.
Jim Bean
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Looking for any GOOD suggestions. Here's the problem...
>
> Just finished my RV7 tail kit and was installing the rod end bearings for
> the right elevator, when to my surprise I found one of the nutplates (center
> one on the right elevator) has NO threads in it!!
>
> Please don't tell me I should have checked them - I already heard
> that...from Van's! Who'd a thunk to check those things. After building 3
> tail kits, and 1 flying RV6, I've never seen a nutplate with no threads.
> Anyway, Van's is still searching for some other answer short of
> dissasembling the elevator. If that's the case I'll just build another one
> from scratch.
>
> If you have any bright ideas, feel free to let me know!
>
> Just my typical luck, if there is one nutplate in every 2 million that
> doesn't get threaded, I'll end up with it!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6/N664SB 90+hrs
> RV7/N174SB Trying to finish the tail!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator HELP! |
My thought, too. In fact, isn't there a check nut on the rod end bearing that
locks it into place? Furthermore, how would it rotate anyway with an AN3 bolt
going through it? I suspect the internal threads are cut with some sort of tap
in
manufacturing, so this seems workable to me.
Bill Marvel
Jim Bean wrote:
>
> Why don't you tap it. I wouldn't be self locking but you could use a
> head drilled bolt and safety wire it.
> Jim Bean
>
> Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > Looking for any GOOD suggestions. Here's the problem...
> >
> > Just finished my RV7 tail kit and was installing the rod end bearings for
> > the right elevator, when to my surprise I found one of the nutplates (center
> > one on the right elevator) has NO threads in it!!
> >
> > Please don't tell me I should have checked them - I already heard
> > that...from Van's! Who'd a thunk to check those things. After building 3
> > tail kits, and 1 flying RV6, I've never seen a nutplate with no threads.
> > Anyway, Van's is still searching for some other answer short of
> > dissasembling the elevator. If that's the case I'll just build another one
> > from scratch.
> >
> > If you have any bright ideas, feel free to let me know!
> >
> > Just my typical luck, if there is one nutplate in every 2 million that
> > doesn't get threaded, I'll end up with it!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Stein Bruch
> > RV6/N664SB 90+hrs
> > RV7/N174SB Trying to finish the tail!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
Great Idea!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bean
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Elevator HELP!
Why don't you tap it. I wouldn't be self locking but you could use a
head drilled bolt and safety wire it.
Jim Bean
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Looking for any GOOD suggestions. Here's the problem...
>
> Just finished my RV7 tail kit and was installing the rod end bearings for
> the right elevator, when to my surprise I found one of the nutplates
(center
> one on the right elevator) has NO threads in it!!
>
> Please don't tell me I should have checked them - I already heard
> that...from Van's! Who'd a thunk to check those things. After building 3
> tail kits, and 1 flying RV6, I've never seen a nutplate with no threads.
> Anyway, Van's is still searching for some other answer short of
> dissasembling the elevator. If that's the case I'll just build another
one
> from scratch.
>
> If you have any bright ideas, feel free to let me know!
>
> Just my typical luck, if there is one nutplate in every 2 million that
> doesn't get threaded, I'll end up with it!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6/N664SB 90+hrs
> RV7/N174SB Trying to finish the tail!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com> |
I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs. I need to
drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights. Anyone out there who
could tell me what conduit worked the best and the location they used to run
it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing ribs?
Jim Adams
RV-8A wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
Jim:
I had a QB -8A and just got the black conduit Van sells. I routed it through the
rib lightening holes just forward of the rear spar. You don't need to drill
anything other than maybe small holes for tie wraps to keep it from bouncing
around. I ran wires through the conduit out to
the end for nav lights, landing light in each wing and strobes and one more for
pitot heat in the left wing. The existing tooling holes near the front spar
were about right for plastic grommets I used to run coax out there for marker
beacon and nav/gs antennas in one wing tip and
the com 2 antenna in the other.
Bill Marvel
Jim Adams wrote:
>
> I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs. I need
to drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights. Anyone out there
who could tell me what conduit worked the best and the location they used to run
it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing ribs?
>
> Jim Adams
> RV-8A wing
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
What style of Nav/GS, Marker Beacon, Com antennas are you using in the
wingtips? Are you using both wingtips?
I am about to start the wings of my -8 and plan an IFR panel. Burying
the antennas seems like a good idea aerodynamically but how about
electrically? With the com in one wingtip the airframe would shield it
from a signal coming from the opposite side? Would the same be true for
the Nav antenna when the A/C is not oriented with the nose/tail at the
navaid?
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Marvel [mailto:bmarvel(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Conduit
Jim:
I had a QB -8A and just got the black conduit Van sells. I routed it
through the rib lightening holes just forward of the rear spar. You
don't need to drill anything other than maybe small holes for tie wraps
to keep it from bouncing around. I ran wires through the conduit out to
the end for nav lights, landing light in each wing and strobes and one
more for pitot heat in the left wing. The existing tooling holes near
the front spar were about right for plastic grommets I used to run coax
out there for marker beacon and nav/gs antennas in one wing tip and the
com 2 antenna in the other.
Bill Marvel
Jim Adams wrote:
>
> I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs.
> I need to drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights.
> Anyone out there who could tell me what conduit worked the best and
> the location they used to run it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing
> ribs?
>
> Jim Adams
> RV-8A wing
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832
7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
I have some pictures on my website of where I ran the conduit.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=130
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=131
Both locations get in the way of riveting a little bit. The aft location is
simply where the tooling holes are. Watch out for the outboard most rib
because the aileron hinge bracket will be in the way. You will have to move
it forward and up a little bit. The other location is one that I came up
with and if I had to do it again I would move it up just a little because it
is in the way for riveting the bottom skins but not too bad. I have had the
controls hooked up, I have a Tru-Trak autopilot servo in the wing, AOA probe
tubing and the pitot tubing and these two conduit locations stay well clear
of all of the above.
BTW when I write things like up, forward and aft I mean in relation to the
airplane not how the wing is sitting in the cradle.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Conduit
>
> I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs. I
need to drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights. Anyone out
there who could tell me what conduit worked the best and the location they
used to run it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing ribs?
>
> Jim Adams
> RV-8A wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antennas In Wingtips |
What style of Nav/GS, Marker Beacon, Com antennas are you using in the
wingtips? Are you using both wingtips? I am about to start the wings of
my -8 and plan an IFR panel. Burying the antennas seems like a good idea
aerodynamically but how about electrically? With the com in one wingtip
the airframe would shield it from a signal coming from the opposite
side? Would the same be true for the Nav antenna when the A/C is not
oriented with the nose/tail at the navaid?
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
Chris:
I used antennas from Bob Archer in the wingtips. The nav/glideslope and
marker beacon antennas are in the right wingtip (nav/gs on top surface and
marker on the bottom). The com 2 antenna is in the left wingtip. My com 1
and transponder antennas are on the bottom of the fuselage.
The Archer antennas are very inexpensive, light weight and seem to work
fine. In fact, I can get VOR signals out to nearly 100 miles, although the
audio ident is not available until you are in closer. The marker antenna is
so simple he won't even sell you one -- he tells you how to make it. It is
a strip of aluminum about .5 inches wide and about 3 feet long bonded to the
inside of lower wing tip surface. The coax center connector is attached to
it and the ground shield is not used. As I recall it is mounted 3 inches
outboard of the wing edge and parallel to it.
The com antenna sits alone in the other wingtip and is bonded to the bottom
surface and then folds up vertically and is attached to the upper surface.
This gives it maximum vertical rise. It is good out to only about 50
miles, but for backup and ATIS it has worked fine. It is not as good as the
commercial bent whip I have on the belly but is fine for the application I
have for it.
These antennas are available from most of the larger supply houses. Bob
lives out here near me so I was able to get him to come to my hangar and
have him look at the installation. That is when he told me not to buy a
marker antenna. He pointed out that there is practically nothing I could do
to prevent his simple marker antenna design from working. After all, it is
just a piece of metal.
There is a story about this, as well as contact information, at:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Bill Marvel
Chris Stone wrote:
>
> What style of Nav/GS, Marker Beacon, Com antennas are you using in the
> wingtips? Are you using both wingtips?
> I am about to start the wings of my -8 and plan an IFR panel. Burying
> the antennas seems like a good idea aerodynamically but how about
> electrically? With the com in one wingtip the airframe would shield it
> from a signal coming from the opposite side? Would the same be true for
> the Nav antenna when the A/C is not oriented with the nose/tail at the
> navaid?
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Marvel [mailto:bmarvel(at)cox.net]
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Conduit
>
>
> Jim:
>
> I had a QB -8A and just got the black conduit Van sells. I routed it
> through the rib lightening holes just forward of the rear spar. You
> don't need to drill anything other than maybe small holes for tie wraps
> to keep it from bouncing around. I ran wires through the conduit out to
> the end for nav lights, landing light in each wing and strobes and one
> more for pitot heat in the left wing. The existing tooling holes near
> the front spar were about right for plastic grommets I used to run coax
> out there for marker beacon and nav/gs antennas in one wing tip and the
> com 2 antenna in the other.
>
> Bill Marvel
>
> Jim Adams wrote:
>
> >
> > I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs.
>
> > I need to drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights.
> > Anyone out there who could tell me what conduit worked the best and
> > the location they used to run it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing
> > ribs?
> >
> > Jim Adams
> > RV-8A wing
> >
>
> --
> Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832
> 7617
> P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
> San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
>
> One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
>
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
--
Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617
P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013
San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334
One good deed beats 100 good intentions...
________________________________________________________________________________
Any RV8's for sale?
Doug Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
In a message dated 2/18/03 9:37:31 PM Central Standard Time, Dougpsr(at)aol.com
writes:
> Dougpsr(at)aol.com
>
Doug,
I have a RV 8A for sale, 90% complete, really. All the metal work is
complete, the engine and prop is mounted. For more info E-mail me at
N188rv(at)aol.com.
Stan
Memphis area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan & Marge Carr <b.m.carr(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
What do you want? A Rocket or RV-8. I got one of each.
The RV-8 is listed on Barnstormers.
Dougpsr(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Any RV8's for sale?
>Doug Preston
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Either one is a possibility. Would like to know details of both.
Thanks,
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
I'm building an 8QB and just installed a conduit. I used a 3/4" OD 0.035
wall seamless Al tube purchased from Aircraft Spruce. I made five supports
per wing and a locating fixture so that I could have the conduit pass
through one of the large lightening holes from tip to root. You have a
better opportunity, however. If I were you I'd drill a hole in the ribs
where Van does only large enough to get the tube placed into the hole with a
plastic grommet to prevent fretting. Do it now before any assembly.
I have antennas in both tips along with landing lights, marker lights and
strobe. The left wing also has the pitot heat wiring. All this stuff just
wont fit a 5/8" OD tube.
I am building an RV-8A and am just finishing deburring the wing ribs. I
need to drill holes to run the conduit for the wing tip lights. Anyone out
there who could tell me what conduit worked the best and the location they
used to run it throught the W-711-R/L inboard wing ribs?
Jim Adams
RV-8A wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
I trial fitted my fuel tank tonight to drill the Z brackets. It doesn't butt
up against the leading edge. The W-423 joint plate is obviously too wide.
It's right where the plans say it should be, 7/8". When measuring the skin
overhang on the outboard end of the tank, it's just a little over 3/4". Is
this normal? Just trim the W-423 and move on?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Seal" <supersonic(at)mail.sisna.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank fit |
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 21:44:35 -0700
>
>I trial fitted my fuel tank tonight to drill the Z brackets. It
doesn't butt
>up against the leading edge. The W-423 joint plate is obviously
too wide.
>It's right where the plans say it should be, 7/8". When measuring
the skin
>overhang on the outboard end of the tank, it's just a little over
3/4". Is
>this normal? Just trim the W-423 and move on?
>
>Thanks.
>
>I recall that there is an error in those measurements. You don't
want to trim the joint plate without finding out what it is. I
can't remember exactly how that worked but if you follow the plans
the tank does not fit the leading edge as you said. I'd call Vans'
Tech support.
>_Boyd Seal-
===================================================================
===
>_-
===================================================================
===
>_-
===================================================================
===
>_-
===================================================================
===
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 02/19/03 |
Thanks Stan. I am not interested in an A model. Going back to tail draggers.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Grove Aircraft RV-8 Airfoiled Lightweight Gear |
Has anyone tried the Grove Aircraft RV-8 Airfoiled Lightweight Gear on a
flying RV-8? I wondered how they compared to stock in terms of stiffness and
ground handling.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
Grove Aircraft RV-8 Airfoiled Lightweight Gear
Has anyone tried the Grove Aircraft RV-8 Airfoiled Lightweight Gear on a flying
RV-8? I wondered how they compared to stock in terms of stiffness and ground
handling.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grove Aircraft RV-8 Airfoiled Lightweight Gear |
I used the RV-4 gear on my RV-8. Picture attached. 80 hours with no
problems so far.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Grove Airfoiled Installation Report #1 |
Hi Listers:
I am currently retrofitting a set of Grove Airfoiled Gear Legs to my -8
"Bad Cat." Observations:
1. The gear is beautifully crafted. They are more "art" than simply
aircraft parts--like a sculpture. All included hardware is top notch,
also. I also enjoyed doing business with this company.
2. We began the installation two weeks ago. I had three friends helping
who all insisted on resting the forward fuselage/FW junction on a 2 X 12
suspended on saw horses. I had my doubts and should have been more
assertive but wasn't, so when the fuse bottom wrinkled I wasn't
surprised--and I take the blame. Two full days and $100 worth of parts and
pro seal later, it looks good as new. DON'T DO THIS!!!
3. Using a combination of a Hale gear jack, engine hoist (just to
stabilize and not to lift entire airframe), and a saw horse under the
spar, we installed the new legs in 2 days. Removing and installing the
two outboard bolts inside the gear towers was a real test of patience and
manual dexterity. (In a completed plane these towers are full of wires,
cables, and fuel tubing, and the access holes are small.)
4. Several different brake line fitting orientation and fitting types
needed to be used in order for everything to fit. The fuel tank vents
needed to be relocated 1.25" farther inboard.
5. Retrofitting the Grove gear IS a big job. It would have been better
to return Vans stock gear for a credit during the construction process
putting the Grove's on from the get go.
I should have the plane flying again this weekend and will be post flight
speed and climb comparison data next week.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 47 hours
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorin Frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
Just wanted to let RV8a folks know of a potential problem. We had 90
hours on our RV8a when the nose gear collapsed on landing. We had maybe 200
landings on a grass field. The NTSB found that the nose gear was at fault,
no pilot error or poor field conditions. This is the same nose gear used
for the RV6a but the RV8a has a lot more weight up front. Van's is aware of
this problem but has no fix for it. Maybe an after market parts builder
will come up with something. Our insurance company is paying $16,000 to fix
this plane so we are keeping it off grass or rough fields until a stronger
nose gear is made available. Fly well.
--- Lorin Frank
--- llfrank(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
Not good news. A couple of questions:
1) Was it the gear leg itself, or the mount where the gear leg is inserted,
or both?
2) Was yours an isolated incident, or are there more cases like this out
there that Van's knows about but just doesn't have a "fix" for?
3) Is your/the NTSB's/Vans' theory that the less than smooth grass strip
landings at least contributed to the premature failure - i.e., is the theory
from them or Vans that operation on smooth (paved) strips will [help] keep this
from happening?
4) I am assuming from the tone of your message that all landings you have
had have been pretty much "normal" (i.e., no unusually hard landings, none on
the nose-gear first, etc.).
5) What engine do you have? When you say that the -8A has a lot more weight
up front than the -6A, this has to be driven by the engine. I am not sure what
people are typically putting on -6's (160 horse??) - but I have a 180 horse on
my -8A.
Thanks!
Scott in MEM
RV-8A
Electrical and Cowling to go...
Lorin Frank wrote:
>
> Just wanted to let RV8a folks know of a potential problem. We had 90
> hours on our RV8a when the nose gear collapsed on landing. We had maybe 200
> landings on a grass field. The NTSB found that the nose gear was at fault,
> no pilot error or poor field conditions. This is the same nose gear used
> for the RV6a but the RV8a has a lot more weight up front. Van's is aware of
> this problem but has no fix for it. Maybe an after market parts builder
> will come up with something. Our insurance company is paying $16,000 to fix
> this plane so we are keeping it off grass or rough fields until a stronger
> nose gear is made available. Fly well.
>
> --- Lorin Frank
> --- llfrank(at)earthlink.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)boulder.nist.gov> |
>
> 2) Was yours an isolated incident, or are there more cases like this out
>there that Van's knows about but just doesn't have a "fix" for?
I've read a few NTSB reports of nose gear buckling on RVs. This is
not the only incident. On the other hand, there are at least as many NTSB
reports on ground loops for the RV tail draggers.
________________________________________________________________________________
I did my transition training with Mike Seager in the factory 6A. Mike
probably has more tricycle RV time than anyone. He teaches to be careful
with the nose gear but not that it is a problem area.
Mike has you pull the nose off the runway after putting in power on the
takeoff and let the airplane fly off. On landing he teaches to hold the
nosegear off the runway as long as possible.
In light of the latest news ...this seems to be good advice ... whether there
is a gear problem or not.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
56 hours !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | Aero Sport Power IO-360-B1B Engine |
version=2.40
Is anyone flying an Aero Sport Power IO-360-B1B Engine with LASAR mags
and Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with a Hartzell constant speed
prop?
Please contact me if you are.
Thanks
Roger Crandell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
My partner just got one and is installing it on his RV7A project. They have
the engine hung and the prop mounted and will start sometime next month. You
can call his at
318-547-3847 (HOYT)
thanks,
Wayne Petrus
RV8A flying (aerosport O360A1A-Hartzel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Listers.
I just received my RV8A finish kit. It seems at this point, Vans leaves a
lot to the builder. Can anyone suggest a general order of where to start ie;
canopy, plumbing,gear etc. so as to stay out of trouble doing something out
of order and having to take it apart to access something else? I was going
to wait on the wing / fuselage attach until the wings go on for good.
Thanks.
Al Grajek
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern Darley,II" <vern(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear problems |
Just a comment on the nose gear legs: I have seen two 6A nosegears bent severely
without breaking. In both cases,the engine mounts bent also. They are tough!
I also tried to saw one off using a Sawsall. What a job! However, there is an old
Van's Service bulletin on 6A nosegears (SB 98-10-1) that might be applicable.
It is posted in pdf format at http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm
Vern Darley
Peachtree City, GA
6A slowbuild
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Order of things |
take a fools advice if you will.you can fit the canopy..(rear), but don't do
the foward part..UNTIL you do ALL the wires, plumbing, air ventig ducts,
ect...and THEN stang back and try to think of anything you have left
out..BEFORE you close the top..believe me, unless you cut a hole in the top
of the fuse, thru the baggage compartment you will find yourself upside down
under the inst. panel a lot more than you really want ...then cleco the top
on, and trial fit the foward part of the canopy to fit....happy building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Order of things
>
>
> Listers.
> I just received my RV8A finish kit. It seems at this point, Vans leaves a
> lot to the builder. Can anyone suggest a general order of where to start
ie;
> canopy, plumbing,gear etc. so as to stay out of trouble doing something
out
> of order and having to take it apart to access something else? I was
going
> to wait on the wing / fuselage attach until the wings go on for good.
> Thanks.
> Al Grajek
> RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Order of things |
Al:
I had an 8A QB kit and pretty much followed the order of assembly shown in the
text of the plans. FWIW, keep the following thought in the forefront of your
mind:
MECHANICAL THINGS THAT MUST GO IN A CERTAIN PLACE HAVE TO GO IN THAT PLACE.
ANYTHING ELSE, LIKE WIRING AND PLUMBING, CAN BE ROUTED AROUND THEM.
My thoughts:
1. Landing gear weldments go first. Be sure to clean out all of the holes so
wing atch bolts go through. This is much harder to do if you install the
weldments and learn of this problem later.
2. Gear legs and wheels. Axle may take hours of emery cloth work so wheels
will fit on it.
3. Engine mount/firewall planning, drilling and cutting. Be sure you have
mount attached so you know where you can't mount something that would hit the
mount.
4. Floor assembly but not installation. Drill to floor beams and install
nutplates. Control hangars for center control column. Step installation
5. Make up seat backs
6. Cut access hole and make cover plate for bulkhead on rear side of fwd
baggage compartment. Drill, hinge or nutplate as you need.
7. Make up rear baggage compartment, drill and nutplate
8. Instrument panel planning/left and right upper consoles/left and right lower
consoles. Drill, nutplate, tap. Route T,P,M cables as necessary. Drill holes
as needed in bulkheads, firewall etc.
9. In short, do all of the cockpit metal work. Holes, nutplates, etc. Then
disassemble and paint the cockpit while all the pieces are removable.
10. Now, do all of the electrical wiring, hydraulic and fuel lines. All of the
mechanical impediments to these will be in place and you can route over, under,
around or through as needed.
Al, that will take awhile... When you get that far, give us another call.
Bill Marvel
Al Grajek wrote:
>
> Listers.
> I just received my RV8A finish kit. It seems at this point, Vans leaves a
> lot to the builder. Can anyone suggest a general order of where to start ie;
> canopy, plumbing,gear etc. so as to stay out of trouble doing something out
> of order and having to take it apart to access something else? I was going
> to wait on the wing / fuselage attach until the wings go on for good.
> Thanks.
> Al Grajek
> RV8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)boulder.nist.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear problems |
A quote from the service bulletin: "Any metal part loaded to normal working
stress will eventually fail due to fatigue."
This is true for some metals (like aluminum and brass) but not true for
all metals. It is definitely not true for steel. If you stay below the
"fatigue limit" stress for the material, it will not fail due to fatigue.
For most steels, the fatigue limit is about 1/3 of the tensile strength.
If the gear leg is cracking after 1,000 landings this would imply that
the
peak loading was about 1/2 of the tensile strength. This would also imply
that you could beef up the thickness (or size) of the highly stressed
portion of the gear leg by perhaps as little as 20% to get on the "good"
side of the fatigue limit curve. You could also alter the design in some
way to reduce the peak load or to reduce the stress concentration at the
point where cracking is a problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Order of things |
| From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
I just followed the instructions as it was not a QB, simply verfying
each task has been done and checking it off. I did find a few rivets
missing that way.
On Fri, 2003-02-21 at 08:28, Al Grajek wrote:
>
>
> Listers.
> I just received my RV8A finish kit. It seems at this point, Vans leaves a
> lot to the builder. Can anyone suggest a general order of where to start ie;
> canopy, plumbing,gear etc. so as to stay out of trouble doing something out
September 20, 2002 - February 22, 2003
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