RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ae
February 22, 2003 - August 20, 2003
> of order and having to take it apart to access something else? I was going
> to wait on the wing / fuselage attach until the wings go on for good.
> Thanks.
> Al Grajek
> RV8A
>
>
--
Greg V. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
BRYAN, I HAVE DECIDED TO PASS ON THE ROCKETS. INSURANCE & OTHER THINGS
INVOLVED. WOULD LIKE TO SEE PHOTOS OF YOUR 8.
THANKS.
DOUG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Gound loops in taildraggers are primarily caused by the pilot. A nose gear
collapse on a nosedragger is more likely to be a design problem.
Van's must know about the problem. I'd like to know if they have a plan to
resolve it.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
I'm not convinced that nose gear collapse is a design problem of Van's. My
understanding is that the possibility of nose gear collapse under extreme
circumstances is an inherent problem of all tricycle gear airplanes, which
is why conventional gear is considered more suitable for bush planes. Van's
did have some concerns with the 6A nose gear which they addressed in an
October '98 service bulletin. Have a look. There must be a lot of messages
in the archives about it. I'm sure what was learned with the 6A problems was
incorporated into the 8A design and manufacturing. I expect they are
exactly the same parts.
Terry
RV-8A finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: (no subject)
Gound loops in taildraggers are primarily caused by the pilot. A nose gear
collapse on a nosedragger is more likely to be a design problem.
Van's must know about the problem. I'd like to know if they have a plan to
resolve it.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan & Marge Carr <b.m.carr(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Hi Doug
I am computer illiterate so don't know how to send pics. via e-mail.
Send your snail mail address and I will mail some photos.
Regards
Bryan
Dougpsr(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>BRYAN, I HAVE DECIDED TO PASS ON THE ROCKETS. INSURANCE & OTHER THINGS
>INVOLVED. WOULD LIKE TO SEE PHOTOS OF YOUR 8.
>THANKS.
>DOUG
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent " <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | F-804N Channel Cap Installation Heads UP |
Where: RV-8 Fuselage center section F-804C bulkheads
Short:
Recommend one does not drill the F-804N channel cap to the F-804C
bulkheads until after mounting the F-816 cockpit rails.
Long:
When assembling the right and left control panels to the fuselage, I
assumed (yes I know..) that I should drill and cleco the channel caps
then also. Not a good idea as in order to align the F-804C flanges
properly to the F-816 cockpit rails (much later in the plans) I have to
remove the clecoes on the channel cap for proper center line alignment.
The holes in the F-804C no longer line up with the pre-punched ones in
the channel cap.
Fortunately, most of mine lined up but many on the forward side for me
did not requiring me to either make new channel caps from scratch or
drill new holes between the existing pre punched ones. Haven't decided
yet which way I will go.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8(SB) - Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | F-804N Channel Cap Installation Heads UP |
Vince,
I drilled my channel caps way too soon and consequently got them spaced
wrong, which became obvious when I put the armrests and the switch panel and
the throttle quadrant in. Fortunately, mine was far enough off that I could
reposition it and re-drill it in the proper location.
Terry
Where: RV-8 Fuselage center section F-804C bulkheads
Short:
Recommend one does not drill the F-804N channel cap to the F-804C
bulkheads until after mounting the F-816 cockpit rails.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8(SB) - Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"RV List" , "RV8ListVANS" ,
"rv8-list"
| Subject: | Vancouver and Oregon RVers |
I am building an 8, and I will be in Vancouver Sunday Mar.2 until Friday. I may
take a drive to Vans ( I still have not been able to get a ride in one) and look
around. If anyone wants to show me thier RV give me a call or email me. 859-381-9460.
Thanks. Al Grajek
RV8
Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"RV List" , "RV8ListVANS" ,
"rv8-list"
| Subject: | Vancouver and Oregon RVers |
I am building an 8, and I will be in Vancouver Sunday Mar.2 until Friday. I may
take a drive to Vans ( I still have not been able to get a ride in one) and look
around. If anyone wants to show me thier RV give me a call or email me. 859-381-9460.
Thanks. Al Grajek
RV8
Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ James E. Bean ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: James E. Bean
Subject: RV-8 Cooling Cowl Flap
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jim-bean@att.net.03.08.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Duggan" <judge(at)dslextreme.com> |
| Subject: | Fiber Optic Cable |
Has anyone run fiber optic cable to the nav lights to give a cabin indicator?
Is there a better way to tell of the lights are on from inside the cockpit?
Mike Duggan
N918RV (Reserved)
RV8AQB-- on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiber Optic Cable |
put a little nixie light on the inst panel to tell you when the nav lites
are on..that is what some of the big boys do...good luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Duggan" <judge(at)dslextreme.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fiber Optic Cable
>
> Has anyone run fiber optic cable to the nav lights to give a cabin
indicator? Is there a better way to tell of the lights are on from inside
the cockpit?
>
> Mike Duggan
> N918RV (Reserved)
> RV8AQB-- on wings.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiber Optic Cable |
I have seen a very short piece of Fiber optic cable from de nav bulb to the
top of the wing, pointing towards the pilot. Just enough to check if the
light works, very easy, very light.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Duggan" <judge(at)dslextreme.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fiber Optic Cable
>
> Has anyone run fiber optic cable to the nav lights to give a cabin
indicator? Is there a better way to tell of the lights are on from inside
the cockpit?
>
> Mike Duggan
> N918RV (Reserved)
> RV8AQB-- on wings.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fiber Optic Cable |
Why not use the position of the switch?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> > -->
> >
> > Has anyone run fiber optic cable to the nav lights to give a cabin
> indicator? Is there a better way to tell of the lights are
> on from inside the cockpit?
> >
> > Mike Duggan
> > N918RV (Reserved)
> > RV8AQB-- on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Foy ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Foy
Subject:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/foyboy6@hot.rr.com.03.09.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linenwool(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Scratches in Aluminum |
How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with
a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out
but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is.
and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural
reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as
well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue.
Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the
skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | first engine failure, need help |
rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Well, I had my first engine failure and landed without incident. I need some
help trouble shooting this one. On takeoff at FPR, at about 800 AGL, the
engine lost most of its power. It was a sputter, followed my an almost shut
down. It reminded me of the time I was setting up my fuel flow on the RMI
and ran a tank try. I check the boost, it was confirmed on, mixture rich,
and switch tanks. No luck. I jockeyed the throttle and mixture on the down
wind, just to see if I could get more power and still no luck. I landed rwy
32 with no problems and after a few sputters to taxi clear, the engine
completely shut down on the runway. I tried to restart on the ramp and the 3
year old battery also decided to quit.
My plane is normally hangared, right now I'm doing my CFI at Aviator and the
4 has been left out for a week with half tanks. I thought it might had been
fuel contamination or moisture, but the full cup samples I took after the
long push to the ramp showed no problems with the fuel. No samples were
inspected prior to the flight. It took about a minute to land and I was
thinking that if it were water in the line it would have cleared and fired
back up, but I've also heard that fuel injectors are more sensitive to water.
Where to start, first thing tomorrow, after I order a new battery, I'll pull
the filters and purge the system, but other than that I don't know what it
could be. My system is an 0360, Bendix injector, and airflow performance
boost/filter setup. I do have the RMI fuel flow transducer between the
injector and flowdivider/spider. If anyone has any ideal where else I could
look, please advise.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
RV4 310 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scratches in Aluminum |
I am using Rustoleum Primer in the spray cans. I give everything a light coat on
the inside before driving the rivets and closing. It's a lot simpler than the
mixing of the Sherwin Williams and other types and using the spray gun.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Scratches in Aluminum |
The skins are alclad, that is they are coated with a thin coat of pure
aluminum that provides excellent corrosion protection. I don't think
your scratch is a structural problem, but in the process of sanding it
out you will remove the alclad. Primer and paint will protect the skin.
I would suggest that you keep the area sanded to just the scratch itself
and avoid sanding the surrounding area. A 1" dia. Buffing wheel on a
dremel or die grinder and some rouge will also work well to polish out
the scratch.
I am building my emp & wings I have only been priming the parts that are
not alclad, i.e. ribs, extrusions, stiffeners. I live in the Northwest,
read damp 6 months of the year and there are many RVs primed this way.
(There are many with all parts primed also). I have been using Napa
self etching rattle can primer which works well. The scratch resistance
is not as good as Veriprime but for the interior of wings and emp. it
should be fine.
Chris Stone
RV-8
Emp & wings
-----Original Message-----
From: linenwool(at)attbi.com [mailto:linenwool(at)attbi.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum
How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have
come with
a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it
out
but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep
it is.
and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural
reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover
it as
well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue.
Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside
of the
skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars?
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 emp
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curtis R. White" <crw(at)islands.vi> |
| Subject: | Re: Scratches in Aluminum |
If you're going to sand or buff any part of the alclad (or any other aluminum part
for that matter) you absolutely must etch and alodine the surface. This process
will not only assist in corrosion prevention, but allow for better adhesion of
any
primer and paint that you will apply. In the enviroment here in the Caribbean
EVERYTHING is etched, alodined and primed.
linenwool(at)attbi.com wrote:
>
> How do you gauge if a scratch is too deep? My HS skin seems to have come with
> a scratch in it that is about 2 inches long. I might be able to sand it out
> but it would probably take something as course as 120 grit for how deep it is.
> and then more fine to polish it. Would this be acceptable for structural
> reasons? I can put it on the bottom and I'm sure the paint would cover it as
> well but I don't want to chance it if it is a safety issue.
>
> Also...uh oh, here we go.... is it a big deal not to prime the inside of the
> skins even though I've taken the time to prime all ribs and spars?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa.
> RV8 emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Scratches in Aluminum |
Suggest you lightly buff scratch, hit with a little primer (NAPA 7026 in
spray cans is my personal choice along with the aluminum cleaner that is
on the shelf right next to it) and move on. When the plane is done, you
will be going completely over it anyway to repair the other dents,
dings, gouges, etc. that you "will" have.
I started out priming everything but now I am down to doing it only if
the plans say so, else thinking about it if not. I will prime any area
that gets pretty scratched up during the construction phase which for me
is usually along the rivet line as I keep the plastic coating on till
the last instant before riveting. Also I prime between two dissimilar
metals. I lightly buff the affected area so as to increase the grip of
the primer, not to remove the alcad finish.
Personal RV-List Observation #1: One can get way too eaten up with this
primer thing!
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 (SB) Fuselage/Finish/Saving up for engine
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Scratches in Aluminum |
Re vinyl film: I have been using a soldering iron to cut/melt a line
adjacent to the rivet line then remove only a strip vinyl film at the
rivet line. This leaves a protective film on the rest of the surface
until ready for paint. Of course remove all film on the inside of the
skins!!
Chris Stone
RV-8
Emp & Wings
Newberg OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Himsl [mailto:vhimsl(at)turbonet.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Scratches in Aluminum
Suggest you lightly buff scratch, hit with a little primer (NAPA 7026 in
spray cans is my personal choice along with the aluminum cleaner that is
on the shelf right next to it) and move on. When the plane is done, you
will be going completely over it anyway to repair the other dents,
dings, gouges, etc. that you "will" have.
I started out priming everything but now I am down to doing it only if
the plans say so, else thinking about it if not. I will prime any area
that gets pretty scratched up during the construction phase which for me
is usually along the rivet line as I keep the plastic coating on till
the last instant before riveting. Also I prime between two dissimilar
metals. I lightly buff the affected area so as to increase the grip of
the primer, not to remove the alcad finish.
Personal RV-List Observation #1: One can get way too eaten up with this
primer thing!
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 (SB) Fuselage/Finish/Saving up for engine
Moscow, ID USA
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first engine failure, need help |
Carey,
Make sure the liquid sample you took was in fact gas and not all water.
I've taken full cups of pure water from my tanks and thought I was looking
at fuel.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
;
Subject: RV8-List: first engine failure, need help
>
> Well, I had my first engine failure and landed without incident. I need
some
> help trouble shooting this one. On takeoff at FPR, at about 800 AGL, the
> engine lost most of its power. It was a sputter, followed my an almost
shut
> down. It reminded me of the time I was setting up my fuel flow on the RMI
> and ran a tank try. I check the boost, it was confirmed on, mixture rich,
> and switch tanks. No luck. I jockeyed the throttle and mixture on the
down
> wind, just to see if I could get more power and still no luck. I landed
rwy
> 32 with no problems and after a few sputters to taxi clear, the engine
> completely shut down on the runway. I tried to restart on the ramp and
the 3
> year old battery also decided to quit.
> My plane is normally hangared, right now I'm doing my CFI at Aviator and
the
> 4 has been left out for a week with half tanks. I thought it might had
been
> fuel contamination or moisture, but the full cup samples I took after the
> long push to the ramp showed no problems with the fuel. No samples were
> inspected prior to the flight. It took about a minute to land and I was
> thinking that if it were water in the line it would have cleared and fired
> back up, but I've also heard that fuel injectors are more sensitive to
water.
> Where to start, first thing tomorrow, after I order a new battery, I'll
pull
> the filters and purge the system, but other than that I don't know what it
> could be. My system is an 0360, Bendix injector, and airflow performance
> boost/filter setup. I do have the RMI fuel flow transducer between the
> injector and flowdivider/spider. If anyone has any ideal where else I
could
> look, please advise.
> Thanks,
> Carey Mills
> RV4 310 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine failure solved |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
After trouble shooting the system, it turn out to be my fuel injector. I
pick it up from Southeast Fuel Systems today and the problem was the bellows
assembly. I bought this servo when I had my engine overhauled. The servo
was overhauled by a company in Alabama, not sure the name, but they used a
few after market PMA parts and Bill from Southeast seems to think that was
the problem. The bellows assembly was stainless, instead of brass/berillum
and I had excessive wear on a spacer.
Just glad it happen a 600 ft in the pattern. My biggest concern was the lack
of warning of the impending failure and the fact that I could not catch the
problem on any of my inspections.
I appreciate the help and use most of the ideals to trouble shoot the
problem.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: first engine failure, need help |
> No samples were
> inspected prior to the flight.
>
This has me just a bit puzzled.
Sampling the fuel is almost a religion... with my CFI, and now with me.
Wouldn't think to fly without a careful check of the fuel integrity (in
addition to quantity).
A good practice, I think, though it sounds like that may not be the issue here.
Robert
Jim Stone wrote:
>
> Carey,
> Make sure the liquid sample you took was in fact gas and not all water.
> I've taken full cups of pure water from my tanks and thought I was looking
> at fuel.
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
> To: ; ;
> ;
> Subject: RV8-List: first engine failure, need help
>
> >
> > Well, I had my first engine failure and landed without incident. I need
> some
> > help trouble shooting this one. On takeoff at FPR, at about 800 AGL, the
> > engine lost most of its power. It was a sputter, followed my an almost
> shut
> > down. It reminded me of the time I was setting up my fuel flow on the RMI
> > and ran a tank try. I check the boost, it was confirmed on, mixture rich,
> > and switch tanks. No luck. I jockeyed the throttle and mixture on the
> down
> > wind, just to see if I could get more power and still no luck. I landed
> rwy
> > 32 with no problems and after a few sputters to taxi clear, the engine
> > completely shut down on the runway. I tried to restart on the ramp and
> the 3
> > year old battery also decided to quit.
> > My plane is normally hangared, right now I'm doing my CFI at Aviator and
> the
> > 4 has been left out for a week with half tanks. I thought it might had
> been
> > fuel contamination or moisture, but the full cup samples I took after the
> > long push to the ramp showed no problems with the fuel. No samples were
> > inspected prior to the flight. It took about a minute to land and I was
> > thinking that if it were water in the line it would have cleared and fired
> > back up, but I've also heard that fuel injectors are more sensitive to
> water.
> > Where to start, first thing tomorrow, after I order a new battery, I'll
> pull
> > the filters and purge the system, but other than that I don't know what it
> > could be. My system is an 0360, Bendix injector, and airflow performance
> > boost/filter setup. I do have the RMI fuel flow transducer between the
> > injector and flowdivider/spider. If anyone has any ideal where else I
> could
> > look, please advise.
> > Thanks,
> > Carey Mills
> > RV4 310 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com
Hey guys,
I have a garmin 250xl brand new, never been installed for sale. Store price
is $2795, I will let it go to the first $2200. Please reply offline.
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: BrownScottA(at)aol.com [mailto:BrownScottA(at)aol.com]
rv6-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com;
rv9-list(at)matronics.com; kr-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Garmin 250XL
Hey guys,
I have a garmin 250xl brand new, never been installed for sale. Store price
is $2795, I will let it go to the first $2200. Please reply offline.
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Clark, Thomas IFC would like to recall the message, "RV8-List:
Garmin 250XL".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Grove Gear Climb and Speed Data Part 2 |
Hi guys
For those of you following this thread. I have been progressively adding
Grove gear to my O-360/Hartzell powered RV-8. I was interested in how
each additional component added (or subtracted) from speed and climb
performance. Speed numbers were obtained by GPS with full throttle (about
19.4" MAP), EGT 1300, at 11,500 MSL--(This is about 65% power).
Weight OAT Climb Rate to 11K Speed
MPH
Van's Standard Gear 1525 55F 1025 184
plain-no fairings/pants
Grove Streamlined Gear 1514 43F 1242 185
plain--no fairings/pants
Grove w/intersection 1515 50F 1252 187
fairings, access covers,
but NO wheel pants.
Grove w/all fairings and Data Coming Next Week
wheel pants
**Note: Stall speed (clean) was reduced by 7 knots with the addition of
intersection fairings. See www.RV-8.com for the theory behind this -8
phenomenon.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 50 hours
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Waltner <swaltner(at)mac.com> |
I just purchased my airline ticket to go down to Sun 'n Fun here in a
couple weeks, and am planning on checking for sale prices on the RV-8
tail kit as well as tool kits while I'm there. Just scanning the web, I
found a RV tool kit from Avery (page 3 of their on-line catalog at
http://www.averytools.com/) that looked like it had all (or at least
most) of the tools necessary to build the RV. Obviously, buying new
tools isn't the cheapest way to go, but I was wanting to get comments
on the completeness of the kit and if there were items that would not
be necessary in the kit. There is an active local RV builder's group,
so if there are tools that are only used a couple times during the
build process, these could probably be borrowed when necessary.
The primary decision to make for this Avery tool kit is the choice
between a 2x and 3x rivet gun. Does it really matter? Which is going to
be better for the build process, or should I invest the extra money and
eventually get one of each? If getting both is the suggestion, which
should I get first with the tool kit?
Also, regarding air tools, how large of a compressor (gallons) should I
be looking for and what are the minimum flow ratings for different PSI
that I should be looking for.
Thanks for the clarification on these various items.
Steve
Avery RV Tool Kit
SPECIAL PRICE: $1670.00
THIS 625 PIECE TOOL KIT INCLUDES:
#2X / 3X AVERY RIVET GUN (your choice)
#2015 BEEHIVE SPRING
#2000 QUICK CHANGE SPRING
#150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR
#1001 22=F5 HAND RIVET & DIMPLING TOOL
#9430 3=F5 AVERY HAND RIVET SQUEEZER
#8005 6 PC. SQUEEZER SET MIX
#3/32DDS 3/32=F5 RIVET DIMPLE DIE SET
#1/8DDS 1/8=F5 RIVET DIMPLE DIE SET
#6DDS #6 SCREW DIMPLE DIE SET
#8DDS #8 SCREW DIMPLE DIE SET
#1022 3/32=F5 POP RIVET DIMPLER
#550 3/32=F5 VISE GRIP DIMPLER
#610 BUCKING BAR
#615 BUCKING BAR
#620 BUCKING BAR
#4704 1/8=F5 RIVET SET
#4720 1/8=F5 DOUBLE OFFSET RIVET SET
#1047 FLUSH SWIVEL RIVET SET
#1048 BACK RIVET SET
#500 FLUTING PLIER
#575 HAND SEAMER
#200 CLECO PLIER
#1016 3/32=F5 CLECOS (325 PCS)
#1017 1/8=F5 CLECOS (175 PCS)
#2018 5/32=F5 CLECOS (20 PCS)
#1012 1/2=F5 X 1/2=F5 SIDE GRIPS (5 PCS)
#1014 1/2=F5 X 1=F5 SIDE GRIPS (5 PCS)
#1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL
#1412 SIOUX 1/4=F5 AIR DRILL - 3600 RPM
#40 #40 COBALT DRILLS (8 PCS)
#30 #30 COBALT DRILLS (6 PCS)
#21 #21 COBALT DRILLS (3 PCS)
#19 #19 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
#12 #12 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
#1/4 1/4=F5 COBALT DRILL (1 PC)
#12X40 #40 X 12=F5 EXTENSION DRILL
#12X30 #30 X 12=F5 EXTENSION DRILL
#1100 4 PC DRILL STOP SET
#8105 TIGHT FIT ANGLE DRILL KIT
#3140 #40 THREADED DRILLS (2 PCS)
#3130 #30 THREADED DRILL (1 PC)
#19360 COUNTERSINK CAGE
#1051 #40 COUNTERSINK CUTTER
#1052 #30 COUNTERSINK CUTTER
#1054 #8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER
#330 PILOT MARKING PENS (3 EA)
#1246 12=F5 FLEXIBLE STEEL RULE
#1007 RIVET GAUGE SET (4 PC)
#1008 RIVET LENGTH GAUGE
#58337 WISS OFFSET SNIPS - LEFT
#58338 WISS OFFSET SNIPS - RIGHT
#1046 SPEED DEBURRING TOOL
#22022 ROYAL MULTI-BURR TOOL
#3753 6=F5 S/BRITE CUT & POLISH WHEEL
#710 CURVED TOOTH FILE
#757 3/32=F5 DRIVE PIN PUNCH
#758 1/8=F5 DRIVE PIN PUNCH
#25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Klaus <jklaus99(at)yahoo.com> |
Steve,
If you don't have the preview plans yet, get them! It
includes the drawings, a manual, accessories catalog.
After you've been through this excellent primer,
you'll be drooling to get started! :) There is a
section with a good discussion on tools. Regarding
the rivet gun they say "the 3x size is preffered by
most builders, although good results are possible with
the lighter duty 2x." Not having riveted a single
rivet myself I can't say for sure but it sounds like
its either/or.
The plans also recommend a 1-1/2 to 2 hp compressor
that develops 75psi and a 20gal tank if rotary
(continous) tools are used.
I haven't even gone flying in one yet and I've already
gotten the 'rv grin' just going through the plans. :)
John K
--- Steve Waltner wrote:
>
>
>...
>
> The primary decision to make for this Avery tool kit
> is the choice
> between a 2x and 3x rivet gun. Does it really
> matter? Which is going to
> be better for the build process, or should I invest
> the extra money and
> eventually get one of each? If getting both is the
> suggestion, which
> should I get first with the tool kit?
>
=====
- Everything that I care about in my life is priceless. Money (or income),
on the other hand, is just a necessary annoyance of limited value.
- The masters of mediocrity rule in the gray wasteland of Redmond,
while the free mind basks in the serene clarity of Antarctica.
- Since the dawn of human civilization there has been a 35% reduction in the number
of plant and animal species on earth. Annually, humans consume 20% more
natural resources than the earth can replenish. As parasites, we are killing
the host...
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)boulder.nist.gov> |
At 08:36 PM 3/20/2003, you wrote:
>
>I just purchased my airline ticket to go down to Sun 'n Fun here in a
>couple weeks, and am planning on checking for sale prices on the RV-8
>tail kit as well as tool kits while I'm there. Just scanning the web, I
>found a RV tool kit from Avery (page 3 of their on-line catalog at
>http://www.averytools.com/) that looked like it had all (or at least
>most) of the tools necessary to build the RV. Obviously, buying new
>tools isn't the cheapest way to go, but I was wanting to get comments
>on the completeness of the kit and if there were items that would not
>be necessary in the kit.
Once you figure out the retail price of each tool you plan to buy,
Ebay is the way to go, especially for big ticket items. The best bargains
are typically not the shiny new "off-brand" tools in the box, but the
well-used quality name brand tools.
degree drill often typically go for well under $100, sometimes with an
assortment of drills thrown in. Here are a couple of completed auctions:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2515107278&category=31482
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406223375&category=26439
These units go for over $300 new.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
You'll use every tool in the Avery kit on a pretty regular basis. You could
probably get away without the C-Frame if your next door neighbor had one
that you could use at a moments notice otherwise I would buy the whole kit.
I can't tell you whether the 2x gun would work but I have the 3x gun that
Avery sells in the kit and it works great. You will not need to get both to
build an RV.
Get the biggest air compressor that you can afford. I don't know what the
flow rate is on mine, but it's a 30 gallon. The big air users are die
grinders and spray guns. The rivet gun and a good drill don't use all that
much air so for most of what you'll be doing just about any air compressor
that you can find will work but you'll be glad you have the volume when you
really have to use the die grinder on something. I have a small HVLP paint
gun that I bought from Harbor Freight that works pretty well and since it's
HVLP it doesn't use up a lot of air.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Waltner" <swaltner(at)mac.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Tool Sets
>
> I just purchased my airline ticket to go down to Sun 'n Fun here in a
> couple weeks, and am planning on checking for sale prices on the RV-8
> tail kit as well as tool kits while I'm there. Just scanning the web, I
> found a RV tool kit from Avery (page 3 of their on-line catalog at
> http://www.averytools.com/) that looked like it had all (or at least
> most) of the tools necessary to build the RV. Obviously, buying new
> tools isn't the cheapest way to go, but I was wanting to get comments
> on the completeness of the kit and if there were items that would not
> be necessary in the kit. There is an active local RV builder's group,
> so if there are tools that are only used a couple times during the
> build process, these could probably be borrowed when necessary.
>
> The primary decision to make for this Avery tool kit is the choice
> between a 2x and 3x rivet gun. Does it really matter? Which is going to
> be better for the build process, or should I invest the extra money and
> eventually get one of each? If getting both is the suggestion, which
> should I get first with the tool kit?
>
> Also, regarding air tools, how large of a compressor (gallons) should I
> be looking for and what are the minimum flow ratings for different PSI
> that I should be looking for.
>
> Thanks for the clarification on these various items.
>
> Steve
>
>
> Avery RV Tool Kit
>
> SPECIAL PRICE: $1670.00
> THIS 625 PIECE TOOL KIT INCLUDES:
> #2X / 3X AVERY RIVET GUN (your choice)
> #2015 BEEHIVE SPRING
> #2000 QUICK CHANGE SPRING
> #150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR
> #1001 22=F5 HAND RIVET & DIMPLING TOOL
> #9430 3=F5 AVERY HAND RIVET SQUEEZER
> #8005 6 PC. SQUEEZER SET MIX
> #3/32DDS 3/32=F5 RIVET DIMPLE DIE SET
> #1/8DDS 1/8=F5 RIVET DIMPLE DIE SET
> #6DDS #6 SCREW DIMPLE DIE SET
> #8DDS #8 SCREW DIMPLE DIE SET
> #1022 3/32=F5 POP RIVET DIMPLER
> #550 3/32=F5 VISE GRIP DIMPLER
> #610 BUCKING BAR
> #615 BUCKING BAR
> #620 BUCKING BAR
> #4704 1/8=F5 RIVET SET
> #4720 1/8=F5 DOUBLE OFFSET RIVET SET
> #1047 FLUSH SWIVEL RIVET SET
> #1048 BACK RIVET SET
> #500 FLUTING PLIER
> #575 HAND SEAMER
> #200 CLECO PLIER
> #1016 3/32=F5 CLECOS (325 PCS)
> #1017 1/8=F5 CLECOS (175 PCS)
> #2018 5/32=F5 CLECOS (20 PCS)
> #1012 1/2=F5 X 1/2=F5 SIDE GRIPS (5 PCS)
> #1014 1/2=F5 X 1=F5 SIDE GRIPS (5 PCS)
> #1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL
> #1412 SIOUX 1/4=F5 AIR DRILL - 3600 RPM
> #40 #40 COBALT DRILLS (8 PCS)
> #30 #30 COBALT DRILLS (6 PCS)
> #21 #21 COBALT DRILLS (3 PCS)
> #19 #19 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
> #12 #12 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
> #1/4 1/4=F5 COBALT DRILL (1 PC)
> #12X40 #40 X 12=F5 EXTENSION DRILL
> #12X30 #30 X 12=F5 EXTENSION DRILL
> #1100 4 PC DRILL STOP SET
> #8105 TIGHT FIT ANGLE DRILL KIT
> #3140 #40 THREADED DRILLS (2 PCS)
> #3130 #30 THREADED DRILL (1 PC)
> #19360 COUNTERSINK CAGE
> #1051 #40 COUNTERSINK CUTTER
> #1052 #30 COUNTERSINK CUTTER
> #1054 #8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER
> #330 PILOT MARKING PENS (3 EA)
> #1246 12=F5 FLEXIBLE STEEL RULE
> #1007 RIVET GAUGE SET (4 PC)
> #1008 RIVET LENGTH GAUGE
> #58337 WISS OFFSET SNIPS - LEFT
> #58338 WISS OFFSET SNIPS - RIGHT
> #1046 SPEED DEBURRING TOOL
> #22022 ROYAL MULTI-BURR TOOL
> #3753 6=F5 S/BRITE CUT & POLISH WHEEL
> #710 CURVED TOOTH FILE
> #757 3/32=F5 DRIVE PIN PUNCH
> #758 1/8=F5 DRIVE PIN PUNCH
> #25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
About the 2x vs. 3x rivet guns:
I built my airframe with a 2x gun. It was great EXCEPT for some big rivets
at the front of the fuselage where the longerons and the side skins and the
firewall all come together with a steel fitting. I couldn't figure out why
I couldn't set the rivets, but after some thought, realized that for the
rivet to set, I had to shake that whole mass to bounce the rivet against the
bucking bar. I backriveted the difficult ones and that worked fine. Next
time, I'll have both a 2x and a 3x gun.
Avery is great to do business with. Buy the kit, and figure on buying a lot
more tools before you finish.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 7-Day Matronics List Browse Enhancement... |
Dear Listers,
Neil Hulin of the Zenith-List at Matronics wrote to me suggesting I add a
"total of available messages" column to the 7-Day List Browse Main page,
and it seemed like a great idea! I've made the modifications and I think
many will find it extremely helpful as well. Have a look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Grove Aero Gear Climb and Speed Data--Final Report |
Hi guys
For those of you following this thread. I have been progressively adding
Grove gear to my O-360/Hartzell powered RV-8. I was interested in how
each additional component added (or subtracted) from speed and climb
performance. Speed numbers were obtained by GPS with full throttle (about
19.4" MAP), EGT 1300, at 11,500 MSL--(This is about 65% power).
Weight OAT Climb Rate to 11K Speed
MPH
Van's Standard Gear 1525 55F 1025 184
plain-no fairings/pants
Grove Streamlined Gear 1514 43F 1242 185
plain--no fairings/pants
Grove w/intersection 1515 50F 1252 187
fairings, access covers,
but NO wheel pants.
Grove w/all fairings and 1518 60F 1312 195
wheel pants
**Note: Stall speed (clean) was reduced by 7 knots with the addition of
intersection fairings. See www.RV-8.com for the theory behind this -8
phenomenon.
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 52 hours
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MWhites676(at)aol.com |
Avery and Cleaveland both have good tools. As for rivet guns, get the 3X.
You can adjust the air pressure down for the -3 rivets, and turn the pressure
up some for the -4 rivets. The 2X gun hits fast and light and must be held
on the rivet longer to make the shop head. The slower hitting 3X gun is more
controllable, forms the shop head quicker, and will handle all your riveting
needs.
If you are bound and determined to buy a 2X gun, I have a brand new one I
used a few times that I will sell you real cheap! After using a 3X gun, I
never touch the 2X gun anymore.
Mike Whitescarver
RV-8A - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I would also appreciate some advice regarding air tools.
I purchased a kit that is partially completed. Only the finishing kit and
some minor fuselage work remains. I just got home from Lowes where I
purchased a Porter Cable 25 gallon, 6 hp compressor. I am wondering what
tools I will need to buy in order to finish my project. I also bought a
cheap combination pack of air tools, including a cut off tool that turns
2200 rpm.
1. Would I be better off buying a 3x rivet gun? (If the 2x would work well,
Mike may have a buyer for his "real cheap" used gun :)
2. Would the cheap, 2200 rpm cut off tool be sufficient?
3. Is my new air compressor sufficient? It is still in the box and I can
return it.
The input of you experienced rivet pounders would be helpful.
Tony Johnson
RV8A
Orlando
Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <MWhites676(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Tool Sets
>
> Avery and Cleaveland both have good tools. As for rivet guns, get the 3X.
> You can adjust the air pressure down for the -3 rivets, and turn the
pressure
> up some for the -4 rivets. The 2X gun hits fast and light and must be
held
> on the rivet longer to make the shop head. The slower hitting 3X gun is
more
> controllable, forms the shop head quicker, and will handle all your
riveting
> needs.
> If you are bound and determined to buy a 2X gun, I have a brand new one I
> used a few times that I will sell you real cheap! After using a 3X gun, I
> never touch the 2X gun anymore.
>
> Mike Whitescarver
> RV-8A - Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)boulder.nist.gov> |
About a week ago, someone asked about tool prices. I poked around
a bit and remembered this wonderful price comparison web page dedicated
specifically to RV tool vendors and prices.
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/flrv7a/rvcontents.htm
Better late than never, I suppose.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics ISP Upgrade TODAY... |
Dear Listers,
The time has finally arrived for the Internet Service Provider (ISP)
upgrade! You'll recall that I was looking into upgrading the existing SDSL
connection from 768k to 1.1M. As it turned out, the copper line wouldn't
support any speeds greater than the current 768k. In light of that news, I
just bit-the-bullet and ordered a full, commercial-grade T1
connection. The T1 connection will provide a full-duplex, high priority,
1.5Mb Internet connection which should be a substantial performance
enhancement for all of the List services!
Pacbell delivered the T1 Loop last week and it tested out fine. This past
weekend I pulled the tail circuit from the demark to the office. This
afternoon, Tuesday 4/1/03, the ISP is suppose come and install the new
router and bring up routing on a test subnet. Assuming that everything
checks out okay with the T1, new router, and routing, I will have them
swing the main Matronics subnet off the SDSL and onto the T1. In theory,
the swing could be nearly transparent to users, but that's usually not the
case... ;-)
Please expect a bit of instability in connectivity this afternoon as we
work though the transition issues. I will post a follow up message when
everything is up and running on the new T1 line.
Finally, please know that it is solely your Contributions that make these
kinds of List upgrades happen! There is no advertising budget (aka,
flashing banner ads and annoying pop up browser windows) to pay these
bills; operational support is solely from List members like you during the
yearly List Fund Raiser. If you would like to make your Contribution to
support the Lists and upgrades like this T1 connectivity enhancement,
please see the List Contribution Web Site where you can make your
Contribution with a Credit Card, PayPal, or Personal Check. You can even
get a free List Archive CDROM with a qualifying List Contribution! The URL
is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thanks again to EVERYONE that made a generous Contribution last year and
enabled this awesome upgrade to T1 service!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics ISP Upgrade COMPLETED! |
Dear Listers,
I just wanted to send out a quick note to let everyone know that the 1.5Mb
T1 connection upgrade went smoothly today. They brought up the new line
and router yesterday on a test subnet and today the ISP switched over
connectivity about 12 noon with little to no incident. I just finished
some performance testing, and it appears that actual throughput and
interactive response is noticeably improved as advertised!
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Fred Stucklen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Fred Stucklen
Subject: Electronic Ignition Power
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com.04.02.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris-Indira Kleen" <ikcw(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Good source for panel help |
For those who are looking to save yourselves from having to deal with
the spaghetti at the back of your instrument panel, I strongly recommend
Mark Krueger of Advantage Avionics. Mark has a wealth of experience and
knowledge and stands behind his work. He is a great guy and he doesn't
know that I'm sending this out.
He bundles and wax ties wires so that it is as clean in the back as it
is in the front. You get schematic drawings for your panel in the event
that anything in the future requires repair. Truly the answer to your
avionic needs.
Contact info.:
(909) 739-7779
Mark(at)AdvantageAvionics.com
http://www.AdvantageAvionics.com
Chris Kleen
N515CW
RV-6 - darn near there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Purchased my Empennage Kit |
| From: | Steve Waltner <swaltner(at)mac.com> |
Well, after a few years of sitting on the fence trying to decide if I
would build an aircraft, then whether it would be a helicopter or
airplane, then which airplane it would be, I've finally done it. I went
down to SNF and placed an order for a RV-8 empennage kit and the Avery
Tools tool kit. I picked up an air compressor from Sears last weekend,
so I'm ready to go once I receive the two shipments and get my garage
cleaned up a little bit to get some work space. It's an exciting time...
BTW, thanks to everyone for your comments on my question a couple weeks
ago regarding the tools that are necessary for building an RV.
Steve
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Purchased my Empennage Kit |
Steve,
Congratulations on a decision well made. I'm in the final stage on
construction of my RV 8 and I can tell you it has been a great learning
experience. I know more now about airplane systems than I had ever hoped to
and the plane I'm about to complete is far nicer than any I had hoped to
own. If you are considering a QB and I recommend that you do, remember that
you need a lot of lead time on your orders. You can build your tail group in
a couple weeks if you get after it. Try to tell yourself that you have
already commited to buy your finish kit and your prop as well as that pesky
expensive engine at the time you ordered your tail kit.
I have just gone over the 2 year mark and I have only a couple thousand
dollars and a couple months to go. You can build a IFR, GPS 200HP CS prop
plane for under 60K if you watch for a few bargains and do some of the work
yourself, like the panel and the paint and the interior.
I even have smoke in mine that costs a whopping 20 bucks and works great.
Good luck and remember that you don't have to build an
airplane----------only one part at a time.
Tom in Ky
Rv 8 N38NE reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Waltner" <swaltner(at)mac.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Purchased my Empennage Kit
>
> Well, after a few years of sitting on the fence trying to decide if I
> would build an aircraft, then whether it would be a helicopter or
> airplane, then which airplane it would be, I've finally done it. I went
> down to SNF and placed an order for a RV-8 empennage kit and the Avery
> Tools tool kit. I picked up an air compressor from Sears last weekend,
> so I'm ready to go once I receive the two shipments and get my garage
> cleaned up a little bit to get some work space. It's an exciting time...
>
> BTW, thanks to everyone for your comments on my question a couple weeks
> ago regarding the tools that are necessary for building an RV.
>
> Steve
> RV-8 Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linenwool(at)attbi.com |
| Subject: | Cherry Blind Rivets explanation |
Hello listers!
I'm looking for some advise on ordering blind rivets from A/C Spruce. I see
the Cherry Max rivets that everyone talks about but also see commercial grade,
N, Q, and assortments of others. So how do I go about deciding which are used
for what applications? Are the Cherry Max the strongest of the group and if
so, are there ever any reasons for wanting a rivet of less strength? ie:
weight, overkill....etc? My immediate application is to put a blind rivet in
place of an AN470AD4-4 that I drilled out and now have a #19 hole...oops, but
I'm hoping to get enough info for future blind riveting applications as well.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | RV8s and Eggenfellner |
i'd like to hear about anyone building/flying RV8/8As with the Eggenfellner
Subaru kit...
his website is full of other RVs, and looks like there's a Yahoo listserv,
but my browser
refuses to let me onto that, at the moment...
with the RV9s in particular, this looks like a great engine kit... i'll bet
more and more
builders choose it... i wouldn't be surprised if Van's makes it a standard
option once
it has more of a track record...
but i'm not sure the 165 hp engine fits the RV8 mission, even
supercharged...
i'd like to hear from all of you on that... what would you expect for a 75%
cruise
speed with a supercharged 165 hp Eggenfellner kit in the RV8?
Andrew Morgan
Madison, WI
(studying options)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8s and Eggenfellner |
Andrew,
I am building an RV-8 QB. My Eggenfellner engine is in the lot now being
built. I chose the Supercharger option mainly for cross-country. It will be
at least a year before it is ready to fly.
I like the looks of the RV-8 and since 98% of my flying will be solo thats
what I got.
I will be flying strictly for the fun of flying. If it goes 150, 170 or 180
MPH, so what.
If you read about the Subaru engine on their site you will see it is a great
engine. Again, it isn't the fasteset RV-8, I can live with that. An
occasional roll will be aerobatic enough for me.
Paul
N9NM reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | RV8s and Eggenfellner |
Oh, I'm sold on the RV8, love that airplane. I'm a big guy, so I appreciate
elbow room, and while I plan to take anybody for a ride who'll ride along, I
anticipate lots of solo flying, too, and don't want the lateral balance
issues.
I'm also looking for fun flying, cross-country trips, and sight-seeing, not
racing.
I don't even care about climb rate particularly, but I would like to see a
200+ mph
cruise rate for the cross-country legs. Van's specs the RV8 for that. Plus
the
RV8 looks so cool, with that space bubble canopy.
So far, the Eggenfellner seems like a great engine and kit, and if I were
ready to buy today, I'd likely choose that. I'm just wondering whether,
with
the supercharger, it can pull an RV8 at 200 mph. Probably not, but on the
Eggenfellner website, it shows that at 8000 feet, the Egg kit produces as
many hp as a normally aspirated Lycoming 200 hp engine. And Van's suggests
that 200 hp Lycoming can cruise at 200+ mph at 8000 ft in an RV8.
Even so, given the extra range of the more efficient smaller engine, using
less fuel per hour, the effective cross-country travel time is gonna be
closer
than a straight comparison of cruising speed might suggest. And cheaper
fuel
costs means more flying.
But I'd like to hear more thoughts on the combination, Eggenfellner and
RV8s.
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PSILeD(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8s and Eggenfellner
Andrew,
I am building an RV-8 QB. My Eggenfellner engine is in the lot now being
built. I chose the Supercharger option mainly for cross-country. It will be
at least a year before it is ready to fly.
I like the looks of the RV-8 and since 98% of my flying will be solo thats
what I got.
I will be flying strictly for the fun of flying. If it goes 150, 170 or 180
MPH, so what.
If you read about the Subaru engine on their site you will see it is a great
engine. Again, it isn't the fasteset RV-8, I can live with that. An
occasional roll will be aerobatic enough for me.
Paul
N9NM reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Microair 760 VHF users |
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gypmover(at)aol.com |
I am just finishing my empennage kit. A friend suggested that I begin to think
and plan about the routing and placement of all the antennas at this time.
I would appreciate any comments from other builders in regards on what works best
and where.
Thanks.
Carl W. Lane
Valparaiso, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
I put antennas in the wing tips..got the antennas from RV list (parts)..work
fine, and no "fishing poles" sticking all over the pland RV8A in aurora, or.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gypmover(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Antennas
>
> I am just finishing my empennage kit. A friend suggested that I begin to
think and plan about the routing and placement of all the antennas at this
time.
>
> I would appreciate any comments from other builders in regards on what
works best and where.
>
> Thanks.
> Carl W. Lane
> Valparaiso, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Here's the link to Phil's obituary ...
http://www.dailycamera.com/bdc/obituaries/article/0,1713,BDC_2437_1908046,00.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Just yesterday I heard the news that Phil Arter had died. Someone on
another RV-8 list had posted it, and today it occurred to me that some
on this list hadn't heard.
I feel compelled to say something about Phil. For many of you
builders, the name doesn't even ring a bell. For some, however, it
represents a much larger loss.
When I made The Big Decision and ordered my empennage kit, one of the
first sites I stumbled across in my research on the RV-8 was Phil
Arter's website. I'd not met the man, but through his site I was able
to look through a window in his shop and see exactly how a plane is
built. Today there are many such sites, some of which technically put
Phil's to shame. However, it was all the inspiration I needed to take
the plunge.
Many of you have been excellent mentors to the rest of us. Danny King
and Brian Denk are great examples of builders who faithfully, honestly
and sacrificially give of their time and talent to answer dumb questions
from the rest of us, even though they long ago forgot which part rivets
to the F-804 on the aft side and which primer should be used.
Phil was that kind of guy to many of us old timers. He had RV-8 kit
#5. Yeah, that's right -- single digit. Van's engineers were still
working out many, many design bugs at that point, and Phil probably
figured most of 'em out before they did.
I only met Phil on one occasion. We hooked up in the campground at
Oshkosh several years ago, and it was great to finally meet the guy who
had patiently answered so many really stupid e-mails over the preceeding
months! We sat around the campsite and chatted about planes, Colorado
and life. In the ensuing years, we never managed to meet again at
Oshkosh.
There are others who will be similarly compelled to fill in the gaps I
write about Phil Arter. When we're finished, there will still be much
to say about Phil, I'm sure. However, for the RV-8 community, there are
many who never even met him who owe him a debt of gratitude for his
inspiration and dedication, and that's a pretty darned good epitaph.
May I someday be so lucky...
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Bowen" <rollnloop(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
Guys,
I also use the Micro-air, and absolutely love it!
Went with a seperate intercom,(PS Engineering)because the built in one is
"hot" all the time.
Methinks that would get old fast!
Range is outstanding, and crystal clear---a truly great little radio!
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
,
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
I am using it in my Ercoupe. You will need an intercom. The built in
intercom has no squelch. As a radio it works fine. I was concerned about the
small buttons in choppy air, it has not been a problem.
There is a company in AU (used to sell Microairs and got cut off for selling
outside AU) that is working on a copycat unit with more features like NAV
freqs, NOAA freqs and a true intercom. Only problem is that it is mono, so I
will still need an intercom for stereo.
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/index.html
Don Mack www.dmack.net don(at)dmack.net
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek"
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Microair 760 VHF users |
Al,
I have installed the MA 760 in several aircraft now with and with out the
use of the supplied intercom. The supplied intercom is not going to make
99% of the people happy, in fact the customer that I installed the unit
using the built in intercom change to a panel mounted intercom.
I recommend and install the NAT AA85 or the DA80 also NAT. Very good
intercom on the upper end performance scale.
Noel and Yoshie Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
"We do builder assistance!"
Toll Free: 866-859-0390
info(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Al Grajek
rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV8-List: Microair 760 VHF users
Listers:
Is anyone out there using the Microair 760 VHF transreciever? If so, Are you
using their intercom system, and if you are, are you happy with it? I am
trying to decide whether I should use it or install a different intercom
system.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna locations |
Hi Carl
I worked with Bill McKelvey of Huron Avionics at Port Huron, MI and
arranged the antennas equally spaced along the aft portion of the
belly; #1 & #2 com, marker beacon and transponder, with the comm
antennas separated as much as possible. ILS "whiskers" adjacent to
the tailwheel mount; and GPS on top of the glareshield. Contrary to
Garmin instructions, I lightly coated the GPS antenna with a light
coating of black paint with no ill effects. Belly-mounted antennas
get backing plates; also, use platenuts for easy removal later.
Drag? So far, 60% power from the O-360 has produced 165k @ 7,000 ft.
I'm happy.
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin <kevin(at)colby.ixks.com> |
name=thankyou[1].htm
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Huft ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Huft
Subject: The entire Pagosa Springs wing of Van's Airforce.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/aflyer@direcway.com.04.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | new travel opportunities opening up |
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/030429_vfrrussia.html
________________________________________________________________________________
---Ursprngliche Nachricht---
From: <0812248383-0001@T-Online.de>
Subject: fairings
Dear RV builders,
I am airborne with my 8 since 15.04.2003. A couple of things have to be completed.
For example all the plastic covers and fairings. I tried to fabricate gear
leg fairings by myself two times, and, failed. This is not my work. Is there
anybody who has a form, which he or she can borrow me to produce these items?
I would pay for the shipping costs to Europe and back.
Thanks indeed
Yours sincerely
--
RV8 flying
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
------
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
Hi Rick.
I have had my microair for some time,But unfortunately my really weak point
is wiring.I have spent hours trying to hook it up,but am still having
problems.
Rick is here any chance you or anyone out there can advise me ,or perhaps fax
me a wiring diagram that someone with my limited electronice experience could
understand.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PS I will be using a separate intercom,but do want to connect the push to
talk and frequency scroll buttons.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fairings (fwd) |
you are not alone...rocket makes fairings that fit...almost, but the
directions are a bit confusing...at least to me...maybe if enough of us ask
Van's REAL nice they will make some decent fairings for us..I, too would
happily pay for some on my RV8A....ARE there any guys/gals out there in
Van"s land..who love to work with fiberglass?....slightly perplexed in
aurora,oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Subject: RV8-List: fairings (fwd)
>
>
> ---Ursprngliche Nachricht---
> From: <0812248383-0001@T-Online.de>
> To:
> Subject: fairings
>
> Dear RV builders,
>
> I am airborne with my 8 since 15.04.2003. A couple of things have to be
completed. For example all the plastic covers and fairings. I tried to
fabricate gear leg fairings by myself two times, and, failed. This is not my
work. Is there anybody who has a form, which he or she can borrow me to
produce these items? I would pay for the shipping costs to Europe and back.
>
> Thanks indeed
>
> Yours sincerely
> --
>
> RV8 flying
> Stephan Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> Germany
>
> Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
> Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
> Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
> ------
>
> --
>
>
> Stephan Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> Germany
> Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
> Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
> Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I bought Team Rocket fairings for my RV-6A and they fit perfectly. I am
building a RV-8 and plan to use the Grove faired aluminum gear legs so I
will not have to mess with fiberglass as much. I would welcome news of any
supplier of intersection fairings.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Jolly [mailto:jollyd(at)ipns.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: fairings (fwd)
you are not alone...rocket makes fairings that fit...almost, but the
directions are a bit confusing...at least to me...maybe if enough of us ask
Van's REAL nice they will make some decent fairings for us..I, too would
happily pay for some on my RV8A....ARE there any guys/gals out there in
Van"s land..who love to work with fiberglass?....slightly perplexed in
aurora,oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Subject: RV8-List: fairings (fwd)
>
>
> ---Ursprngliche Nachricht---
> From: <0812248383-0001@T-Online.de>
> To:
> Subject: fairings
>
> Dear RV builders,
>
> I am airborne with my 8 since 15.04.2003. A couple of things have to
> be
completed. For example all the plastic covers and fairings. I tried to
fabricate gear leg fairings by myself two times, and, failed. This is not my
work. Is there anybody who has a form, which he or she can borrow me to
produce these items? I would pay for the shipping costs to Europe and back.
>
> Thanks indeed
>
> Yours sincerely
> --
>
> RV8 flying
> Stephan Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> Germany
>
> Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
> Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
> Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
> ------
>
> --
>
>
> Stephan Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> Germany
> Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
> Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
> Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
Mike,
Bob Nuckolls (bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net) who wrote The Aeroelectric Connection
about wiring homebuilt airplanes and answers questions on the Matronics
aerolectric list used to sell the Microair radio along with a wiring harness
for it. He wrote an installation manual to go with it. I just looked over
the articles on his website (aeroelectric.com) and didn't see it, but Bob is
very knowledgeable and responsive to questions.
He does list an article about hooking a stereo music source into the
Microair's monaural intercom.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
Hi Rick.
I have had my microair for some time,But unfortunately my really weak point
is wiring.I have spent hours trying to hook it up,but am still having
problems.
Rick is here any chance you or anyone out there can advise me ,or perhaps
fax
me a wiring diagram that someone with my limited electronice experience
could
understand.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PS I will be using a separate intercom,but do want to connect the push to
talk and frequency scroll buttons.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David and Michele" <wander(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new travel opportunities opening up |
My wife and I would like to be involved in a flight to Russia if we
could find a group that is going and is willing to have us tag along.
Please consider us if you are planning a trip in the next couple of
years. We will need to have some time to get ready. Thanks, Dave
wander(at)echoweb.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey" <dump(at)relaypoint.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
I think your looking for the following:
The article is here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
And the wiriing harness is here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
>
> Mike,
>
> Bob Nuckolls (bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net) who wrote The Aeroelectric Connection
> about wiring homebuilt airplanes and answers questions on the Matronics
> aerolectric list used to sell the Microair radio along with a wiring
harness
> for it. He wrote an installation manual to go with it. I just looked over
> the articles on his website (aeroelectric.com) and didn't see it, but Bob
is
> very knowledgeable and responsive to questions.
>
> He does list an article about hooking a stereo music source into the
> Microair's monaural intercom.
>
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
>
>
> Hi Rick.
> I have had my microair for some time,But unfortunately my really weak
point
> is wiring.I have spent hours trying to hook it up,but am still having
> problems.
> Rick is here any chance you or anyone out there can advise me ,or perhaps
> fax
> me a wiring diagram that someone with my limited electronice experience
> could
> understand.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> PS I will be using a separate intercom,but do want to connect the push to
> talk and frequency scroll buttons.
>
> Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Bowen" <rollnloop(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users |
Hey Mike,
the URL's the guys gave you are good to check out.
I would particularly go for the harness Bob has, wasn't available when I did
my radio install a few years ago.
All I did was lay out the schematics for the Microair, and my intercom unit,
and started wiring...worked great first time around!
I was sitting in my plane IN the workshop where I was finishing it, and was
talking to a buddy flying about 25 miles away!
You will love this little radio!
Rick
>From: "Jeffrey" <dump(at)relaypoint.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 VHF users
>Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 11:41:54 -0700
>
>
>I think your looking for the following:
>
>The article is here:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
>And the wiriing harness is here:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
>
>
>Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did a
good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
nearly identical results. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
or other propellers?
Tom Lloyd N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Info |
With that heavy engine up front the WW will save you ~30
lbs....................Just remembered with high compression pistons and
elect ign WW will not sell you a prop. FWIW
>
>
>I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
>is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
>ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
>
>My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
>performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did a
>good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
>nearly identical results. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
>or other propellers?
>
>Tom Lloyd N842TL
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Info |
I am not sure if you are aware, but Hartzell has just introduced a "new" design
that they have been working on in conjunction with Vans. I opted to wait for
this one, and it does not have the operating range limitation. Not sure if that
helps given your particular engine/power set up (my is simply an XP-360 with an
Ellison), but it did remove the restrictions for me.
Scott in MEM
RV-8A
cowling and baffles to go
Lloyd wrote:
>
> I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
> is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
> ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
>
> My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
> performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did a
> good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
> nearly identical results. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
> or other propellers?
>
> Tom Lloyd N842TL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Listers...
Has anyone mounted an IO-360Cx i.e. angle valve Lyc on an RV? or more
specifically on an RV-8?
My Lyc. is off a Piper Arrow and will require remounting the throttle
body from the back of the sump/plenum (rear facing) to the front of the
sump/plenum (front facing). This in itself is not a problem. I am
concerned about the extra weight of the engine and the different
baffling required compared with the IO-360A1-B6.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
On the wet side of Oregon
<http://www.a-dec.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MSices <msices(at)core.com> |
Chris:
I have an IO-360-C1C from an Arrow in my RV-8. I had to buy a forward
facing sump and the induction tubes that go with it (these are hard to find
now I hear - I paid $600 for everything - call the aviation junk yards in
trade-a-plane to find what you need) (I now have a rear facing sump sitting
on the shelf now if anyone needs one).
The weight certainly is not a problem as this angle valve engine is what
Vans put in his prototype RV8. Though, Vans recommends putting the battery
in the back to move the cg rearwards - especially if you have a constant
speed prop to go with. Vans sells a snorkel so that you can use the lower
cowl without the front center hole in it. Vans also sells a 200hp baffle
kits which work very well.
Mike Sices
RV8 - ready to paint
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Stone
Subject: RV8-List: IO-360C1-C6
Hello Listers...
Has anyone mounted an IO-360Cx i.e. angle valve Lyc on an RV? or more
specifically on an RV-8?
My Lyc. is off a Piper Arrow and will require remounting the throttle
body from the back of the sump/plenum (rear facing) to the front of the
sump/plenum (front facing). This in itself is not a problem. I am
concerned about the extra weight of the engine and the different
baffling required compared with the IO-360A1-B6.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
On the wet side of Oregon
<http://www.a-dec.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Info |
> I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
> is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
> ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
Sounds like you've got a real hot rod there, you are right to be concerned
about prop durability and compatibility.
> My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
> performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did
a
> good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
> nearly identical results.
That would be me who did the testing you're referring to, and the story can
be found at www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm. The story however focuses on hard data so
as to be as objective as possible. What is missing to a large extent from my
story are the subjective impressions on the whole thing, so here's one such
personal opinion that I think applies to you: consider the Whirl Wind 200C.
One of the things that I can't quantify is that the 200C is one beefy unit
that was designed from the get-go to be abused in daily hard core aerobatic
use. Between the McCauley hub and the robust blades the 200C looks like it
would withstand quite a bit more abuse than the more diminuative appearing
150. I'm now happily flying behind the 200C and on an overall basis I prefer
it to the 150, for quantifiable, but mostly non-quantifiable reasons. Now on
the other side of the coin Hartzell (and MT) does extensive vibration
analysis and testing for certification purposes that the smaller
experimental-only companies like WW can't or don't do. That doesn't mean
they don't do their engineering homework however. WW in particular has had
all their designs audited by a DER and done a fair amount of static testing,
all of which yielded a very clean bill of health. What's missing is the
expensive in-flight dynamic stress testing, which I understand is on their
agenda eventually. And it has the benefit of being 12 lbs lighter than the
72" Hartzell, which sounds like you could use with an angle valve engine.
> Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
> or other propellers?
Not that I'm aware of, but I might be tempted if someone had an MT delivered
to my hangar.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 306 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
I guess I didn't express myself well. My engine is the lighter PARALLEL
VALVE engine not the 80 lb heavier ANGLE VALVE engine. The engine is
actually the Superior XP360 with some modifications.
The mods are: 10:1 coated pistons, dual Plasma IIIs, Bendix injection on
their new plastic cold airbox sump with a forward facing inlet. It is known
as an Eagle IV XP from America's Aircraft Engines, Tulsa, OK.
http://www.overhaul.com/eagle4.asp AAE is one of the three shops selected by
Superior to build their engine. More power at 80lb less weight than a Lyc
IO360-A1A.
Thanks for your input. I'll keep looking. Randy your work was what caused me
to wonder about further comparison data against the new Hartzell. Your
enthusiasm for the C200 is exciting. The WW sounds like the winner of my $$$
at this writing but, I still have some time to search. I would like to know
of anything heard about the MT. It is a good looking prop.
Tom N842TL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Propeller Info
> I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
> is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
> ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
Sounds like you've got a real hot rod there, you are right to be concerned
about prop durability and compatibility.
> My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
> performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did
a
> good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
> nearly identical results.
That would be me who did the testing you're referring to, and the story can
be found at www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm. The story however focuses on hard data so
as to be as objective as possible. What is missing to a large extent from my
story are the subjective impressions on the whole thing, so here's one such
personal opinion that I think applies to you: consider the Whirl Wind 200C.
One of the things that I can't quantify is that the 200C is one beefy unit
that was designed from the get-go to be abused in daily hard core aerobatic
use. Between the McCauley hub and the robust blades the 200C looks like it
would withstand quite a bit more abuse than the more diminuative appearing
150. I'm now happily flying behind the 200C and on an overall basis I prefer
it to the 150, for quantifiable, but mostly non-quantifiable reasons. Now on
the other side of the coin Hartzell (and MT) does extensive vibration
analysis and testing for certification purposes that the smaller
experimental-only companies like WW can't or don't do. That doesn't mean
they don't do their engineering homework however. WW in particular has had
all their designs audited by a DER and done a fair amount of static testing,
all of which yielded a very clean bill of health. What's missing is the
expensive in-flight dynamic stress testing, which I understand is on their
agenda eventually. And it has the benefit of being 12 lbs lighter than the
72" Hartzell, which sounds like you could use with an angle valve engine.
> Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
> or other propellers?
Not that I'm aware of, but I might be tempted if someone had an MT delivered
to my hangar.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 306 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
I believe that Randy Lervold's work was done on the HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2
propeller. However, Hartzell recently came out with C2YR-1BF/F7496 or
C2YR-1BF/F7496-2 which Vans now sells. Van did an article on it in the last
RVator. They claim some improvement in the restrictions as well. Check it
out on Vans page.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
Correction: more power and less weight than an IO360 A1B 200 hp.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd [mailto:tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Propeller Info
I guess I didn't express myself well. My engine is the lighter PARALLEL
VALVE engine not the 80 lb heavier ANGLE VALVE engine. The engine is
actually the Superior XP360 with some modifications.
The mods are: 10:1 coated pistons, dual Plasma IIIs, Bendix injection on
their new plastic cold airbox sump with a forward facing inlet. It is known
as an Eagle IV XP from America's Aircraft Engines, Tulsa, OK.
http://www.overhaul.com/eagle4.asp AAE is one of the three shops selected by
Superior to build their engine. More power at 80lb less weight than a Lyc
IO360-A1B.
Thanks for your input. I'll keep looking. Randy your work was what caused me
to wonder about further comparison data against the new Hartzell. Your
enthusiasm for the C200 is exciting. The WW sounds like the winner of my $$$
at this writing but, I still have some time to search. I would like to know
of anything heard about the MT. It is a good looking prop.
Tom N842TL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Propeller Info
> I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
> is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
> ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
Sounds like you've got a real hot rod there, you are right to be concerned
about prop durability and compatibility.
> My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
> performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did
a
> good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
> nearly identical results.
That would be me who did the testing you're referring to, and the story can
be found at www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm. The story however focuses on hard data so
as to be as objective as possible. What is missing to a large extent from my
story are the subjective impressions on the whole thing, so here's one such
personal opinion that I think applies to you: consider the Whirl Wind 200C.
One of the things that I can't quantify is that the 200C is one beefy unit
that was designed from the get-go to be abused in daily hard core aerobatic
use. Between the McCauley hub and the robust blades the 200C looks like it
would withstand quite a bit more abuse than the more diminuative appearing
150. I'm now happily flying behind the 200C and on an overall basis I prefer
it to the 150, for quantifiable, but mostly non-quantifiable reasons. Now on
the other side of the coin Hartzell (and MT) does extensive vibration
analysis and testing for certification purposes that the smaller
experimental-only companies like WW can't or don't do. That doesn't mean
they don't do their engineering homework however. WW in particular has had
all their designs audited by a DER and done a fair amount of static testing,
all of which yielded a very clean bill of health. What's missing is the
expensive in-flight dynamic stress testing, which I understand is on their
agenda eventually. And it has the benefit of being 12 lbs lighter than the
72" Hartzell, which sounds like you could use with an angle valve engine.
> Has anyone done any comparison testing with the MT
> or other propellers?
Not that I'm aware of, but I might be tempted if someone had an MT delivered
to my hangar.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 306 hrs
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Info |
Scott,
I was under the same impression but according to Whirlwind that's not
necessarily true. Whirlwind's web site says the series 150 prop is not
recommended for high compression or electronic ignition. I e-mailed them
just yesterday and they told me an IO360 with a counterweight crank and
electronic ignition is okay to use and they will be more than happy to sell
you a prop. The series 200 prop is okay regardless of the crank. They
appear to be selling a lot of 150 props. They're backordered until October.
Rick McBride
In a message dated 4/30/03 6:51:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> With that heavy engine up front the WW will save you ~30
> lbs....................Just remembered with high compression pistons and
> elect ign WW will not sell you a prop. FWIW
>
>
> >
> >
> >I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
> >is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
> >ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
> >
> >My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
> >performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did
> a
> >good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
> >nearly identical results. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the
> MT
> >or other propellers?
> >
> >Tom Lloyd N842TL
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PAUL ANTOINETTE" <PaulAntoinette(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Construction & Princeton Sender |
I am currently working wings but do not yet have access to a shop large enough
to accommodate a wing jig. To not slow progress I'm doing everything I can without
having to assemble ribs to spars - I.e., flaps, ailerons, spar prep. I'm
now to the point where tank assembly is just about the only thing left I can
accommodate. Reviewing the instructions does not indicate any obvious requirement
for having the wings in the jig and skinned prior to assembling the tanks.
Before I proceed I'd like to know if I'm missing anything. Thoughts? My
particular wing kit is all prepunched.
Additionally - I'm installing Princeton Capacitance fuel senders as sold by Grand
Rapids. Anyone have experience installing these senders? Is their fit compatible
with the standard float type sender?
Thank you for any assistance.
mailto:paulantoinette(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Terje.Kobro(at)platou.com> |
we have installed an hio( helicopter ) 360 angle valve and machicned the sump so
injection is forward
no problem whatsoever and baffle kit works without problem
had to modify somewhat the glasfibre airduct we bought from vans
regards terje kobro-norway
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Stone [mailto:Chris.Stone@a-dec.com]
> Sent: 1. mai 2003 01:12
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: IO-360C1-C6
>
>
>
> Hello Listers...
>
> Has anyone mounted an IO-360Cx i.e. angle valve Lyc on an RV? or more
> specifically on an RV-8?
> My Lyc. is off a Piper Arrow and will require remounting the throttle
> body from the back of the sump/plenum (rear facing) to the
> front of the
> sump/plenum (front facing). This in itself is not a problem. I am
> concerned about the extra weight of the engine and the different
> baffling required compared with the IO-360A1-B6.
>
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
> On the wet side of Oregon
> <http://www.a-dec.com/>
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propeller Info |
Your right!! I hate giving out bad info. They wont sell you a prop on a
modified engine UNLESS it has a counter weighted crank.
>
>Scott,
>
>I was under the same impression but according to Whirlwind that's not
>necessarily true. Whirlwind's web site says the series 150 prop is not
>recommended for high compression or electronic ignition. I e-mailed them
>just yesterday and they told me an IO360 with a counterweight crank and
>electronic ignition is okay to use and they will be more than happy to sell
>you a prop. The series 200 prop is okay regardless of the crank. They
>appear to be selling a lot of 150 props. They're backordered until October.
>
>Rick McBride
>
>In a message dated 4/30/03 6:51:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>
>> bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> With that heavy engine up front the WW will save you ~30
>> lbs....................Just remembered with high compression pistons and
>> elect ign WW will not sell you a prop. FWIW
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >I have an RV8 about 1/2 done with 75% to go. I have ordered an engine that
>> >is an IO360 parallel valve with 10:1 pistons, dual Light Speed Plasma III
>> >ignition and Bendix injection with cold airbox intake system.
>> >
>> >My question is about propellers, however. The new Hartzell blended airfoil
>> >performs well but has lots of operational restrictions. One RV8 driver did
>> a
>> >good operational test of the two and three blade Whirl Wind blades and got
>> >nearly identical results. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the
>> MT
>> >or other propellers?
>> >
>> >Tom Lloyd N842TL
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Scott Bilinski
>> Eng dept 305
>> Phone (858) 657-2536
>> Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: e: RV8-List:Jigs |
Hi All.
Well,just received my empanage kit for the RV 8
I am trying to find out about the jig and future jigs which I will need.
Do any of you out there know if there are plans available,or at least
dimensions which should be used.
As you can all imagine,I am very excited about starting,but really want to
get everything ready for construction before I start.
Thank you in advance for any help.
You can be sure that there will be many more questions :)
I would also like to thank those of you who kindly helped me out with the
wiring for my Microair 760....
Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | pics of RV8A airplane paint job |
al(at)vtc.net, HWDJAD(at)aol.com, rdugas(at)bayou.com, Elrod3794(at)aol.com,
jandgf(at)iamerica.net, jdgummere(at)dow.com, bobhalsell(at)yahoo.com,
bobby.hargrave(at)att.net, Travlnbus(at)aol.com, cjohnson(at)jpjcpa.com,
biff(at)mchsi.com, KellyRHoward(at)aol.com, PSILeD(at)aol.com, lois_memaw(at)yahoo.com,
SIDLOVE(at)INU.NET, jeffnaul(at)msn.com, rentmoor(at)rochelle.net,
capetrus(at)hotmail.com, Dwpetrus(at)aol.com, PRYORE(at)aol.com,
rrogersjr(at)jam.rr.com, crogers1(at)jam.rr.com, RV-LIST(at)matronics.com,
RV8-LIST(at)matronics.com, DerFlieger(at)aol.com, miketerry(at)kjlo.com,
info(at)vansaircraft.com, WALLB(at)OIBANK.COM
The paint and graphics were completed today. Check out the attached
airplane.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
West Monroe, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Greg Hunsicker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Greg Hunsicker
Subject: 4 Ship Formation
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gh2538@cjnetworks.com.05.03.03/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Tail & Wing Jig |
Mike, and other "newbies" scratching their heads about building jigs and
fearing their plane will end up flying sideways:
Van's plans call for the wing jig to be at least 115 inches long (it is
in Van's instructions). The actual wing spar is 109 inches long on the
plans, leaving space for fabricating wing spar attachment brackets.
Van's plans recommend that this larger jig can be built early to use for
the tail section also.
I bought about a dozen kiln dried 8 foot 2x4 studs at Home Depot. I
pawed through the stack and got them to unband a second stack so I could
find the straightest ones with fewest knots. They were pretty helpful
when I told them it was for a jig to built an actual airplane. I glued
(contractors light yellow wood glue) and screwed (deck screws) three
studs together to make a 4x6 post at either end. Since the steel
rafters in my hanger were about 12 feet above the floor, I put two of
the 2x4 studs on the outside of the three stud "sandwich" at the bottom
end to go against the floor and cut a four to five foot piece to go in
the center of the bottom studs so the full 8 foot stud in the center
would reach up to adjust and attach to the rafter using a large C-clamp.
Staggering the joints made the 4x6 post stronger, and having three
separate pieces of wood glued and screwed together resists warpage (not
to mention being cheaper).
For the center horizontal beam I glued and screwed two 2x4 studs
together again staggering the joints to make the 115 inch span. I put
the 4 inch sides horizontal with the glued seam running across the upper
edge. Since mine still took a bend of a 1/4 inch or so when I later
drew a straight center line, yet remained perfectly level across the
top, this is probably the better orientation rather than having the flat
4 inch face on top.
I used lag bolts to screw a steel L-bracket to the bottom of each 4x6
inch post down against the floor, then violated my airport hanger lease
by drilling a hole into the concrete floor and inserting one special
bolt assembly into the hole at each end that the jig posts' L-bracket
fit over to secure the jig post to the floor with a nut and lock washer.
I didn't want it to shift if bumped into at the bottom.
I used smaller metal L-brackets under the horizontal 4x4 beam that
attached to either end using smaller deck wood screws. I screwed one
end on to the vertical 4x6 upright post, then temporarily C-clamped the
other end onto the other 4x6 upright post using a level. Then I got on
a ladder and adjusted the tops of the two 4x6 vertical posts using a
level before permanently tightening the C-clamps holding the upper stud
to the rafter. With the two vertical 4x6 posts secure and level
vertically, I levelled the horizontal 4x6 beam and screwed the second
end to the 4x6 vertical posts. The horizontal post can be raised and
lowered by removing the wood screws and then screwing them back into the
4x6 post at a different level.
When the tail is done the horizontal piece will be removed.
In three years of seasonal changes, my vertical posts are still dead
straight with a level. My horizontal piece remained perfectly level
over the year or so I was working on my tail section. Gluing and
screwing multiple smaller studs together seems to avoid warpage that a
single board will suffer.
Pete Cowper (RV-8 #81139)
Visalia Municipal Airport - California
N666PC reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Kowalski" <salned(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Parachutes for Sale |
Two new strong Parachutes for sale. $1200.00 each new. One back and One seat.
$600.00 each plus shipping and handling.
E-mail salned(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB gear leg drilling |
I am about to drill holes for the gear legs
on my RV-8
Does anyone have sugestions or
warnings on this procedure??
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn Broomell <Broomell(at)epix.net> |
RV-8 builders.
Has anyone out there purchased or installed the new
J.P.Instruments, EDM-900, in an RV-8 yet?
Glenn Broomell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EXPERMENTAL label location |
Where is everyone placing the EXPERMENTAL labelon the 8?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERMENTAL label location |
Mine is on both insides of the canopy skirt opposite the pax.
Rob Miller
N262RM -8 "Bad Cat" 57 hours
--- Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wrote:
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Where is everyone placing the EXPERMENTAL labelon the 8?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Hi Glenn,
You are probably going to get a few responses like this one from people who
don't want to do business with JPI. Go to the Matronics RV list archives
and search for JPI to read about what they tried to do to Matronics a few
years ago.
I did see the new electronic panel a few months ago and it looked awfully
nice. It seemed very readable, at least in the display.
Terry
RV-8A with Bluemountain EFIS-one on order
Seattle
RV-8 builders.
Has anyone out there purchased or installed the new
J.P.Instruments, EDM-900, in an RV-8 yet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EXPERMENTAL label location |
| From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
I put one inside along the canopy skirt, right side. FAA bought it.
On Mon, 2003-05-05 at 13:00, Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> Where is everyone placing the EXPERMENTAL labelon the 8?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
--
Greg V. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | -8 quickbuild gearleg drilling. |
George, my father and I have just completed drilling and fitting the
gearlegs on our -8 and I will tell you it is quite a job. I would
suggest you try and clamp the 803 down to use it as a drill guide. In
our situation the 803 block rode up the drill slightly and it made our
hole a little out of square to the longeron. we then cut a bushing and
put it in the hole and used the inside of the bushing as a drill guide
for a 1/4 inch bolt which we were able to tighten down then we increased
the size to the 3/8 required. All of the other holes went well. The
last bit of work was getting the clearance the plans require of .030
between the wear plate and the face of the 803 block. To get the block
out you must disassemble the entire gear leg grind down the block and
reassemble,torque and check the clearance with a feeler. We must have
disassembled our gear leg about 6 times before we got the clearance
correct. I hope this helps
Shane Summerhays
slc rv-6 super-8?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com> |
Has anyone out there built or is building a super-8? I am curious what
steps were taken to convert your bird? Please post I am interested in
your suggestions? You may aslo contact me via email
ssummerhays(at)metacrawler.com
shane summerhays
rv-6 super-8?
________________________________________________________________________________
What is a super 8?
>
>Has anyone out there built or is building a super-8? I am curious what
>steps were taken to convert your bird? Please post I am interested in
>your suggestions? You may aslo contact me via email
>ssummerhays(at)metacrawler.com
>shane summerhays
>rv-6 super-8?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
That would be a 8 with a 0-540 in it. There are 4 in Indy and 2 in
Louisville. All were helped along by John Marshall the Indy RV guru!
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: super-8
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
What is a super 8?
>
>Has anyone out there built or is building a super-8? I am curious what
>steps were taken to convert your bird? Please post I am interested in
>your suggestions? You may aslo contact me via email
>ssummerhays(at)metacrawler.com
>shane summerhays
>rv-6 super-8?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A project for sale |
Fuselage and wings complete. Canopy on and glassed in. Engine (IO-360) and
prop (Hartzell Constant Speed), both with 61 hours since new, mounted.
Lower cowl fit. Will sell airframe and engine seperate. Looking for offer.
N188rv(at)aol.com for more info or pictures.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
So, I, and I think others would like to know more about the Super 8.
How much does it weigh?
How do you get a forward CG?
What is the top speed?
What is the climb rate?
Please add anything else of interest.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | re: rv8-list: pic on rv8a paint job |
Wayne,
Beautiful paint job. Is the graphic paint or decal? If decal, how hard was
it to put on?
Rich Crosley
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Final Cruise Performance Results |
Hi Listers!
After six years of building, and six months of testing, finishing,
painting, modifying, checking, adjusting, etc. I'm, well, hmmm, DONE!
It's Official.
The details
RV-8
New Lyc. O-360 A1A
Hartzell
Grove Aero SL Gearlegs
1100 lbs. empty
Full Throttle, 1300 EGT, 19.4 MP, 2500 RPM ===== 65% Power/201.5 MPH
How does this compare to what you guys are seeing??
Rob Miller
-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 58 hours
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Final Cruise Performance Results @ 11.5K |
--- Rob Miller wrote:
>
> Hi Listers!
>
> After six years of building, and six months of testing, finishing,
> painting, modifying, checking, adjusting, etc. I'm, well, hmmm, DONE!
> It's Official.
>
> The details
>
> RV-8
> New Lyc. O-360 A1A
> Hartzell
> Grove Aero SL Gearlegs
> 1100 lbs. empty
>
>
> Full Throttle @ 11.5 MSL, 1300 EGT, 19.4 MP, 2500 RPM ===== 65%
Power/201.5 MPH
>
> How does this compare to what you guys are seeing??
>
> Rob Miller
> -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 58 hours
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: rv8-list: pic on rv8a paint job |
It was painted by a local airbrush artist. He has a web site
www.joeyhutsonart.com
Thanks,
Wayne Petrus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERMENTAL label location |
Mine is aligned with the rear canopy rail on the centerline. That's where
Van puts his too.
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: RV8-List: EXPERMENTAL label location
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Where is everyone placing the EXPERMENTAL labelon the 8?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB gear leg drilling |
GEORGE INMAN wrote:
>
> I am about to drill holes for the gear
legs
> on my RV-8
> Does anyone have sugestions or
> warnings on this procedure??
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
> CELL 204 799 7062
> HOME 204 287 8334
>
George -
It's essential that the gear "box" nestle snugly against the inner skin before
drilling, or else your gear leg might not be properly positioned to allow the outboard
retainer blocks meet the curvature of the gear leg where they should. I'm sorry
I
can't use part numbers - my plans are at the hangar. Like Van says - think, then
drill!
Hope this helps
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERMENTAL label location |
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> Where is everyone placing the EXPERMENTAL labelon the 8?
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
Hi Scott -
After much thought, I placed mine under the right canopy sill in the back
cockpit. The passenger can't miss it when he/she climbs in, and it's out of the
way . . .
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Final Cruise Performance Results |
Rob Miller wrote:
>
> Hi Listers!
>
> After six years of building, and six months of testing, finishing,
> painting, modifying, checking, adjusting, etc. I'm, well, hmmm, DONE!
> It's Official.
>
> The details
>
> RV-8
> New Lyc. O-360 A1A
> Hartzell
> Grove Aero SL Gearlegs
> 1100 lbs. empty
>
> Full Throttle, 1300 EGT, 19.4 MP, 2500 RPM ===== 65% Power/201.5 MPH
>
> How does this compare to what you guys are seeing??
>
> Rob Miller
> -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 58 hours
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
Hi Rob
I got N638DM certified on March 20 and flew it on March 23. Couldn't be
happier.
638DM is similar to your -8; O 360 A1A, Hartzell C/S, IFR certified, 1127
empty, 205 mph @ 70% power @ 8,000 ft.
Congratulations
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi RVers,
I am looking for performance data for my 8. I need them to create a POH for the
german aviation authorities. Who has or knows an address to get them?
--
RV8
Flying 2:34 h
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | E: RV8-List:Jigs |
Just read your instructions. There are no jigs required.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List:Jigs
Hi All.
Well,just received my empanage kit for the RV 8
I am trying to find out about the jig and future jigs which I will need.
Do any of you out there know if there are plans available,or at least
dimensions which should be used.
As you can all imagine,I am very excited about starting,but really want to
get everything ready for construction before I start.
Thank you in advance for any help.
You can be sure that there will be many more questions :)
I would also like to thank those of you who kindly helped me out with the
wiring for my Microair 760....
Mike.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald L. Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: e: RV8-List:Jigs |
With prepunched holes jigs not needed but you might build the wing jig and
modify it to hold Horizontal Stabilizer during fabrication. Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd" <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV8-List:Jigs
>
> Just read your instructions. There are no jigs required.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List:Jigs
>
>
> Hi All.
> Well,just received my empanage kit for the RV 8
> I am trying to find out about the jig and future jigs which I will need.
> Do any of you out there know if there are plans available,or at least
> dimensions which should be used.
> As you can all imagine,I am very excited about starting,but really want to
> get everything ready for construction before I start.
> Thank you in advance for any help.
> You can be sure that there will be many more questions :)
> I would also like to thank those of you who kindly helped me out with the
> wiring for my Microair 760....
>
> Mike.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage jig for free and rollbar dimensions |
Hi listers ,
Does anybody know what the correct dimensions of the roll bar (wd814) should be
? Mine measures 24"between the two little inboard tabs that point down. My fuselage
measures 32" at that station. Both figures seem too exact to be chance
but I am guessing that the roll bar is the one that needs to be adjusted. I could
not find any dimensions on the plans .I should also add that my kit is an
early pre powder coated one .(#255)
If any one needs a fuselage jig in the B.C. Kelowna area I have one for the asking.
Thanks.Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin <kevin(at)colby.ixks.com> |
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L0hUTUw+DQ=9
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | super 8s & acro weight |
Can someone email me a link that has details on how you install a 540 onto a
RV8?
Anyone know how much additional weight these installations are averaging?
Also, how do you know for sure which acro weight limit is the one for your
plane?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage jig for free and rollbar dimensions |
I had to widen my roll-over bar less than an inch (using an engine
hoist) to get a good fit. Something's wrong if you have an eight inch
discrepancy.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of colin jordan
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 12:21 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Fuselage jig for free and rollbar dimensions
>
>
>
> Hi listers ,
>
> Does anybody know what the correct dimensions of the roll bar
> (wd814) should be ? Mine measures 24"between the two little
> inboard tabs that point down. My fuselage measures 32" at
> that station. Both figures seem too exact to be chance but I
> am guessing that the roll bar is the one that needs to be
> adjusted. I could not find any dimensions on the plans .I
> should also add that my kit is an early pre powder coated one .(#255)
>
> If any one needs a fuselage jig in the B.C. Kelowna area I
> have one for the asking.
>
> Thanks.Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
Does anyone know how to decipher kevins post?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hamilton" <dshamilton(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have an infinity stick grip with the starter button on the top right.
I have been told that a zener diode wired properly will prevent the
starter from engaging if the prop is already turning (if the ALT is
producing power).
Does anyone know how to wire these things in?
Dave Hamilton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'm using a second 'starter enable' switch on the console instead. Not
flying yet.
Is there an advantage to using the diode over the switch?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dave Hamilton
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 5:51 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Zener diodes
>
>
> -->
>
>
> I have an infinity stick grip with the starter button on the
> top right. I have been told that a zener diode wired properly
> will prevent the starter from engaging if the prop is already
> turning (if the ALT is producing power).
>
> Does anyone know how to wire these things in?
>
> Dave Hamilton
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage jig for free and rollbar dimensions |
Listers,
I measured my 8 QB today. S/N 81735, and got essentially the same
measurements. If you place the roll bar on the fuselage I have about 1/4"
slack. Rollbar needs to be opened up. Have you tried placing rollbar on
fuselage?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Canoopy cuttin time |
Listers:
I have searched the archives, but cant find what I am looking for. Does
anybidy know of a good website, etc, that shows and explains well, the
process of cutting and fitting the RV8 Canopy.
Thanks
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canoopy cuttin time |
I believe Orndorffs finishing video shows it about as well as anything else.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canoopy cuttin time |
Al,
Before you go and cut the flange off around the bottom, make sure you will
have sufficient edge distance to the rivets on the sides. I ended up
cutting the flange off with the cut-off wheel vertical instead of horizontal
and took advantage of the thickness of the flange so I had enough material.
Cutting with the wheel horizontal on Van's scribe line would have put me
dangerously close to the edge which would have resulted in a cracked canopy
and a lot of profanity.
Scott Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
; ;
Subject: RV8-List: Canoopy cuttin time
>
> Listers:
> I have searched the archives, but cant find what I am looking for. Does
> anybidy know of a good website, etc, that shows and explains well, the
> process of cutting and fitting the RV8 Canopy.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canoopy cuttin time |
Al Grajek wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have searched the archives, but cant find what I am looking for. Does
> anybidy know of a good website, etc, that shows and explains well, the
> process of cutting and fitting the RV8 Canopy.
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
>
Al -
I have heard so much about the trepidations and timidity about dealing with
the canopy. I was so snakebit I put it off until I could not avoid it
anymore. My advice? It ain't that big of a deal. The canopy is like the
rest of Van's kit; just follow the instructions and do it step by step,
being careful and not using a lot of force. I think an important ingredient
is heat. Plexiglass likes heat. I had the workshop at 80degF when I did my
cutting. I used a diegrinder and it cut through the material like butter.
Same for drilling. Get the material warm and use the special plexiglas
drill bits. Sand down the edges with the final sanding at least a 400, and
preferably a 600 grit until the edges look transparent. Under these
conditions you'll find the plexiglas to be remarkably tough and capable of
withstanding a lot of stress. Important; be sure you use the weak aluminum
rivets when attaching to the canopy frame, and not the CS4-4 or equivilant.
You will be sure to crack the canopy if you use the CS4s. Just follow the
instructions, use your instincts, sense when you are about to apply what
feels like too much force, and step back for a moment to reassure yourself
that you're on the right track. You too will wind up with a good-looking,
flawless canopy wondering how you did such a good job, just like I did.
Keep on truckin'
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
> the question is, IN FLIGHT, does the RV8 show
> much "adverse yaw"?
>
> andrew morgan
Adverse yaw? I go back and forth between my RV-8 and a glider and they
couldn't be more different. I've never flown an aircraft with less adverse
yaw than an RV, and of course gliders with their ailerons near the end of a
60' wingspan have LOTS of adverse yaw. Once above pattern speed you really
use very little rudder in an RV (some will say none, but if you *really*
want to keep the ball centered you are applying tiny bits of pressure when
maneuvering). In the glider you put in a healthy does of rudder when banking
the aircraft almost before the aileron. Cessnas, Citabrias, etc. are
somewhere in the middle. My understanding is that adverse yaw is largely a
function of wingspan and the leverage the extra drag of the outboard
(rising, therefore increased drag) aileron has relative to the fuselage.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 307 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
Thanks Larry and Paul,
I guess I did not explain my self well, I too only have about a 1/4 inch of play
when I put the roll bar on the fuselage. The 24" was just a convenient place
to measure on the roll bar and the 32" was to the outside of the fuselage.That
said it would appear that the roll bar is the piece I need to work on.
Larry I am curious how you used the engine hoist to spread your roll bar , I have
tried the approved Van's method but neither my back nor my muscles were up
to the job!
________________________________________________________________________________
Look at the builders hints in the RV White pages. There are pictures of a
simple way to correct the problem. I am going to use this method.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Look at this:
http://bowenaero.com/pix/rollbar.jpg
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> --- colin jordan wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks Larry and Paul,
> > I guess I did not explain my self well, I too only have about a 1/4
> > inch of play when I put the roll bar on the fuselage. The
> 24" was just
> > a convenient place to measure on the roll bar and the 32"
> was to the
> > outside of the fuselage.That said it would appear that the
> roll bar is
> > the piece I need to work on. Larry I am curious how you used the
> > engine hoist to spread your roll bar , I have tried the
> approved Van's
> > method but neither my back nor my muscles were up to the job!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Hat in the Ring |
Greetings, Listers! I'm a long-time listener, but now I must pipe up...
Why? Because I am throwing my hat in the ring...my empennage and wing kits
have been ordered, my brain filled over capacity by Becki & George Orndorff,
and my pocketbook emptied by tool suppliers... So I shall soon begin to
bash tin in earnest! THANK YOU ALL in advance for the support!
Happy skies!
-Scott
Future RV-8 Builder (less than a week away...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "willfly" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I'm looking for power charts for 75%, 65% and 55%.
I will be using the XP360 engine with a Sensenick 72FM8S9-1-86 prop.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "willfly" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I remember reading a great article about break-in procedures for new brakes
very recently but being the bone head I am I must have deleted it.
Had to do with taxing with power and holding brakes.
Can anyone help be in this regard.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Hat in the Ring |
Hi Scott
Welcome fellow addict. Your home will now be safer since all those bales
of money you used to trip over in the middle of the night will all be
gone!
Remember that persistence is more importance than intelligence and skill.
So stay with it, look at lots of finished airplanes, and ask plenty of
questions.
See you at a fly-in.
Rob Miller -8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 62 hours
Pictures available at www.homebuiltairplanes.com
--- es_god@cap-es.net wrote:
>
> Greetings, Listers! I'm a long-time listener, but now I must pipe up...
> Why? Because I am throwing my hat in the ring...my empennage and wing
> kits
> have been ordered, my brain filled over capacity by Becki & George
> Orndorff,
> and my pocketbook emptied by tool suppliers... So I shall soon begin to
> bash tin in earnest! THANK YOU ALL in advance for the support!
>
> Happy skies!
> -Scott
> Future RV-8 Builder (less than a week away...)
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Polished aluminum |
I'd like to share ideas with people who love polished airplanes. I
just went through the first phase of achieving a (hopefully) mirror
finish on my -8, N638DM. It created a pretty shine, but I've got some
swirls to work out and a heckofa mess to clean up. Tip #1; wear
long-sleeved shirts and gloves, and do it outside if possible. Tip #
2; if using an oil-based polishing compound, a little flour on an old
t-shirt will absorb the compound and help clean the inevitable spatter
off the adjacent painted surfaces. Any other tips about achieving and
preserving that shine? I'd like to hear from you.
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV Fly-In at Post Air - 7L8 Indianapolis |
Many of you may know that John Marshall, RV builder extraordinaire with 7
done and 2 under construction, has for years had a corn roast at his grass
strip in Acton, IN on the July 4th weekend. This year however, mainly
because of large attendance, the event is being moved to Martin Fall's Post
Air airport (7L8) located at the SE corner of Indianapolis. So, all you RV
drivers out there are invited to a Corn Roast at High Noon, July 5th, 2003.
Any questions email me at tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net
Tom Lloyd RV8 N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Polished aluminum |
In the 21 years of the RVAtor there was a article about protecting bare
aluminium. There is this magic stuff that is used by the mobile home
trailer company which builds all aluminium trailers. Sorry I dont have the
name.
>
>I'd like to share ideas with people who love polished airplanes. I
>just went through the first phase of achieving a (hopefully) mirror
>finish on my -8, N638DM. It created a pretty shine, but I've got some
>swirls to work out and a heckofa mess to clean up. Tip #1; wear
>long-sleeved shirts and gloves, and do it outside if possible. Tip #
>2; if using an oil-based polishing compound, a little flour on an old
>t-shirt will absorb the compound and help clean the inevitable spatter
>off the adjacent painted surfaces. Any other tips about achieving and
>preserving that shine? I'd like to hear from you.
>
>Don Miller
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Polished aluminum |
Don & list,
I polished out a GlaStar several months ago using the NewVite system and the
instructional video from the Swift Museum. After that I sealed the polished
surface with a product I sell called Zoops Seal. This put a clear coat over
the polish that is much more resistant to tarnishing. Finger prints that
are left on for over a week are wiped off with a polish rag or washed away.
I used about a quart of material on the GlaStar. With my 8A I am expecting
to use just less than two quarts.
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
"We do builder assistance!"
Toll Free: 866-859-0390
info(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
RV-8A in progress IO-360-A1B6: Aero Composites CS: IK-2000: making the
decision of radios.
RV-6A in Progress O-320; fixed pitch;
CH-601 panel with Dynon (WOW!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Miller
Subject: RV8-List: Polished aluminum
I'd like to share ideas with people who love polished airplanes. I
just went through the first phase of achieving a (hopefully) mirror
finish on my -8, N638DM. It created a pretty shine, but I've got some
swirls to work out and a heckofa mess to clean up. Tip #1; wear
long-sleeved shirts and gloves, and do it outside if possible. Tip #
2; if using an oil-based polishing compound, a little flour on an old
t-shirt will absorb the compound and help clean the inevitable spatter
off the adjacent painted surfaces. Any other tips about achieving and
preserving that shine? I'd like to hear from you.
Don Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello Guy's!
I just moved my RV-4 from the Garage to the Hayward Airport to complete the engine
and avionics and get this baby in the air. Anyone with a lead on an IO-320
or 360 / and any 2-1/4 inch instruments would be appreciated.
Ron Patterson N8ZD (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
| From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
I went with an engine power monitor for this--love it.
http://www.technologykitchen.com/projects.htm
Greg
RV8 N89GM, 250 hrs
On Thu, 2003-05-15 at 05:27, willfly wrote:
>
> I'm looking for power charts for 75%, 65% and 55%.
>
> I will be using the XP360 engine with a Sensenick 72FM8S9-1-86 prop.
>
> Steve Glasgow
>
>
--
Greg V. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 induction |
I am trying to fit the fiberglass induction pipe from Vans that goes to
a front induction throttle body on an IO-360. It is a fairly old piece,
part of a 1999 kit. The problem is that it dosn't clear the starter by a
lot. What have people done with this? Were later examples better?
I could chop a big piece out of the top of it and make it fit but glass
is not my favorite medium. All-metal kit right! Also what would a chop
job do to the airflow and the structural strength. Big vacuum inside.
Anyway what is the community experience with this?
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8 engine room
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 induction |
| From: | Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> |
Jim,
I haven't flown yet so I don't know how much clearance will be
required, but one thing you can do is file some off the bottom of the
starter. Bill at B&C said you can take off an eighth of an inch
without a problem because of the thick casing. If you have a different
brand you might check with the manufacturer.
If you need more space then you'll have to cut out the area below the
starter and reglass with as smooth a curve as possible. Danny King did
this and said the airflow was fine.
Good luck,
Joel Harding
On Sunday, May 18, 2003, at 04:26 PM, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> I am trying to fit the fiberglass induction pipe from Vans that goes to
> a front induction throttle body on an IO-360. It is a fairly old piece,
> part of a 1999 kit. The problem is that it dosn't clear the starter by
> a
> lot. What have people done with this? Were later examples better?
>
> I could chop a big piece out of the top of it and make it fit but glass
> is not my favorite medium. All-metal kit right! Also what would a chop
> job do to the airflow and the structural strength. Big vacuum inside.
> Anyway what is the community experience with this?
>
> TIA Jim Bean
> RV-8 engine room
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the needed
Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the 1/8 "
shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone know
where I can get these.
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
Try
www.mcmelectronics.com
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com]
rv-list(at)matronics.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV8-List: Dimmer switch
I ourchased Vans Dimmer switches for my RV8. Thes come without the
needed
Knobs. The instuctions say that Radio Shack carries the knobs for the
1/8 "
shaft. I have tried 5 Radio Shacks and online,but no luck. Does anyone
know
where I can get these.
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimmer switch |
Newark Electronics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oxygen bottle size and mounting location |
Hello
I am going to purchase an oxygen system for the -8 and need to know where
others have 'mounted' a portable system, which brand, size of bottle, and
how it is working out.
No luck in the archives.
Rob Miller
N262RM -8 "Bad Cat" 66 hours
Pictures can be seen at www.homebuiltairplanes.com
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 induction |
Hi Jim,
I installed an airbox from Brackett for the IO360 in the baffle of the left air
intake. Then formed a fiberglass box with a 3" hose connection to the air
intake. For the entry of the injection pump I formed a bowl with 3" connection
to the pump.
I'll be back from vacation in two weeks and send you a picture then.
Stephan Servatius
RV8 flying 2,5h
80303
Germany
Jim Bean schrieb:
>
> I am trying to fit the fiberglass induction pipe from Vans that goes to
> a front induction throttle body on an IO-360. It is a fairly old piece,
> part of a 1999 kit. The problem is that it dosn't clear the starter by a
> lot. What have people done with this? Were later examples better?
>
> I could chop a big piece out of the top of it and make it fit but glass
> is not my favorite medium. All-metal kit right! Also what would a chop
> job do to the airflow and the structural strength. Big vacuum inside.
> Anyway what is the community experience with this?
>
> TIA Jim Bean
> RV-8 engine room
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen bottle size and mounting location |
I didn't want to carry around the system when not needed so I bought a
portable system from Nelson: 14 cu.ft. bottle with two Oxymizer cannulas.
When I'm solo I secure it in the rear seat, and when there's someone back
there we reset it on the flap housing and his/her left knee. Works well and
I'm happy.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 310 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Miller" <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Oxygen bottle size and mounting location
>
> Hello
>
> I am going to purchase an oxygen system for the -8 and need to know where
> others have 'mounted' a portable system, which brand, size of bottle, and
> how it is working out.
>
> No luck in the archives.
>
> Rob Miller
> N262RM -8 "Bad Cat" 66 hours
> Pictures can be seen at www.homebuiltairplanes.com
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
I searched the archives but found only a few related topics. I am building a
RV-8A and I plan an IO-360. I currently have the scooped lower cowling
designed for the O-360. It appears to me that the scooped cowling could be
used with the IO-360 and may produce a good ram effect. Has anyone tried
this and what results were obtained? I agree the smooth cowling looks nicer,
but if I can get a good ram effect using the scooped cowling ...
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jonweisw(at)rcn.com |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Planning |
Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
I too will be mounting an IO-360 angle valve on my RV-8. I would be
interested in an alternative to the snorkel intake.
Chris Stone
RV-8 wings
Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Induction Planning
Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
Jon
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
You IO-360 guys can you educate me as to why you went with a IO-360 200 hp
instead of a
IO-360 180 HP modified to 200 HP? You save 30 lbs from the front of the
plane this way.
>
>I too will be mounting an IO-360 angle valve on my RV-8. I would be
>interested in an alternative to the snorkel intake.
>
>Chris Stone
>RV-8 wings
>Oregon
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>
>
>Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
>finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
>mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
>I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
>cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
>
>I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
>the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
>throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
>intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
>receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
>who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
>out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
>direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
>impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
>
>Jon
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
reliability
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Induction Planning
You IO-360 guys can you educate me as to why you went with a IO-360 200 hp
instead of a
IO-360 180 HP modified to 200 HP? You save 30 lbs from the front of the
plane this way.
>
>I too will be mounting an IO-360 angle valve on my RV-8. I would be
>interested in an alternative to the snorkel intake.
>
>Chris Stone
>RV-8 wings
>Oregon
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>
>
>Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
>finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
>mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
>I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
>cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
>
>I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
>the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
>throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
>intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
>receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
>who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
>out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
>direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
>impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
>
>Jon
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
Listers, IO 360 vs 0 360 modified to (200)hp
When I was building my RV8 and deciding on an engine, I talked to everybody
I could who was racing or into aerobatics and I received the same answer from
all of them and that is: IO360 engines breathe better and deliver more actual
power than the modified 0 360s. This answer came from guys who had tried both.
The weight penalty is well worth the actual power output gained. My own experience
racing my RV8 has confirmed the selection of the IO 360 that I have was the
right choice for both power and speed and climb. I would also suggest that
serious consideration also be given to a LIghtspeed electronic ignition.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>reliability
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>
>
>
>You IO-360 guys can you educate me as to why you went with a IO-360 200 hp
>instead of a
>IO-360 180 HP modified to 200 HP? You save 30 lbs from the front of the
>plane this way.
>
>
>>
>>I too will be mounting an IO-360 angle valve on my RV-8. I would be
>>interested in an alternative to the snorkel intake.
>>
>>Chris Stone
>>RV-8 wings
>>Oregon
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>>
>>
>>
>>Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
>>finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
>>mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
>>I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
>>cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
>>
>>I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
>>the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
>>throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
>>intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
>>receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
>>who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
>>out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
>>direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
>>impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
>>
>>Jon
>>
>>
>>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Planning |
----- Original Message -----
From: "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>
> Listers, IO 360 vs 0 360 modified to (200)hp
> When I was building my RV8 and deciding on an engine, I talked to
everybody
> I could who was racing or into aerobatics and I received the same answer
from
> all of them and that is: IO360 engines breathe better and deliver more
actual
> power than the modified 0 360s. This answer came from guys who had tried
both.
> The weight penalty is well worth the actual power output gained. My own
experience
> racing my RV8 has confirmed the selection of the IO 360 that I have was
the
> right choice for both power and speed and climb. I would also suggest
that
> serious consideration also be given to a LIghtspeed electronic ignition.
>
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
Dick: Nice to see you on the list. You might also mention that Monty
Barrett and others have pretty much given up on non counterweighted engines
for high output with constant speed metal props. Though heavier, the
counterweighted crank offers significant advantages in addition to those
you've mentioned.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olc" <olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr> |
hello,
i'm a french new builder.
just starting empennage kit, serial number 81939.
i'm 44 yo and building in my house in Normandie.
my first flight was in 1994 on microlight and 1997 on plane.
i sold a Robin DR253( http://www.pilotlist.org/tagazous/bpoz.htm ) last
month to buy the Van's kit .
i'm hesitating between RV8A and RV8 (i have many hours on Mudry CAP10),
performances are very similar.
i prefer the RV8: look better, but i think that the RV8A is easier for sale.
i find the CAFE Fondation performance report for the RV8A, but i didn't
know anything about the RV8 (easy or hard to taxi with crosswind for
example).
what did you think about RV8 against RV8A ?
for engine, my project is 180hp with a fixed wood prop (3blades like the
CAP10 homebuilt F-PYIF http://fderieux.9online.fr/fpyif.htm it's me on the
flying picture)
did you know how is the inverted flight on a RV8(8) ?
thanks for discussion about engine !
sorry for my bad english !
Olivier Le Carbonnier
7, place Cauchoise
76000 Rouen
France
olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr
ICQ#: 82067330
empennage
http://www.pilotlist.org
http://nav2000.com/LF7622 Yvetot
http://nav2000.com/LFOP Rouen
http://www.pilotlist.org/trombino/lecarbonnier.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Planning |
Scott,
Make no mistake, a parallel valve 180 HP engine is an ideal engine for most
RV's. That fact influences the Supply/Demand curve to the point where I
could buy a used Angle Valve 360 for less than a used 180 HP. Reason One
My engine comes with a counterbalanced crank. (Very desirable with a metal
propeller) Reason Two
My engine is 200 HP while still Certified Reason Three
Should I wish to forego the Certification, The angle valve engine responds
to mods even better than the parallel valve. i.e. 230HP or more. Reason Four
Engine already comes with Fuel Injection and allows me to use Cowl without
inlet projection which I think looks better. Reason Five
For me, these 5 reasons were enough to put up with the 30#'s, Heck I could
recoup the 30#'s by just going on a diet! Your mileage may vary!
Esten Spears, RV8A, N922ES (reserve), Finishing up Fuse, Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Induction Planning
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> You IO-360 guys can you educate me as to why you went with a IO-360 200 hp
> instead of a
> IO-360 180 HP modified to 200 HP? You save 30 lbs from the front of the
> plane this way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Induction Planning |
Sure...
I found a low time IO-360-C1C6 out of a Piper Arrow. The owner of which
made me an offer I couldn't refuse! $20K to $30K for an engine was a
budget buster.
I plan to offset some of the increased weight by using a Whirlwind prop
and light weight governor and starter.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Induction Planning
--> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
You IO-360 guys can you educate me as to why you went with a IO-360 200
hp instead of a
IO-360 180 HP modified to 200 HP? You save 30 lbs from the front of the
plane this way.
>
>I too will be mounting an IO-360 angle valve on my RV-8. I would be
>interested in an alternative to the snorkel intake.
>
>Chris Stone
>RV-8 wings
>Oregon
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com]
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Induction Planning
>
>
>Funny you should ask...I am at the same point - I ordered the
>finish kit with plans for an O-360-A1A and since changed my
>mind and ordered (and have since mounted) an IO-360-M1B. So,
>I have the lower cowl for the A1A and have had to order the
>cowl for the M1B - an expensive mistake($500 incl shipping).
>
>I have researched this a little, and found that the scoop on
>the O-360 cowl is too low relative to the front of the
>throttle body to allow a reliable, unobstructed, filtered
>intake, hence the "snorkel" which vans provides which
>receives air from forward of cyl #2. I know of one individual
>who fab'd his own ram air intake for an angled valve IO-360
>out of fiberglass and it looks great. Could point you in his
>direction if you want to contact me off the list. His work is
>impeccable - at the cost of more hours...
>
>Jon
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
Olivier...
I decided on the RV-8 for its esthetic beauty. Sure the ground handling
is better in the -8A... BUT, Would you fly a tri gear P-51? Or Extra
300?
The -8 I have flown has good ground handling. You DO have to fly it all
the way through the landing. Like any taildragger... You're not done
flying 'till the prop stops!
Whatever you decide you won't be disappointed! They both are wonderful
flying aircraft.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: olc [mailto:olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr]
Subject: RV8-List: new builder
hello,
i'm a french new builder.
just starting empennage kit, serial number 81939.
i'm 44 yo and building in my house in Normandie.
my first flight was in 1994 on microlight and 1997 on plane.
i sold a Robin DR253( http://www.pilotlist.org/tagazous/bpoz.htm ) last
month to buy the Van's kit .
i'm hesitating between RV8A and RV8 (i have many hours on Mudry CAP10),
performances are very similar. i prefer the RV8: look better, but i
think that the RV8A is easier for sale. i find the CAFE Fondation
performance report for the RV8A, but i didn't know anything about the
RV8 (easy or hard to taxi with crosswind for example). what did you
think about RV8 against RV8A ?
for engine, my project is 180hp with a fixed wood prop (3blades like the
CAP10 homebuilt F-PYIF http://fderieux.9online.fr/fpyif.htm it's me on
the flying picture)
did you know how is the inverted flight on a RV8(8) ?
thanks for discussion about engine !
sorry for my bad english !
Olivier Le Carbonnier
7, place Cauchoise
76000 Rouen
France
olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr
ICQ#: 82067330
empennage
http://www.pilotlist.org
http://nav2000.com/LF7622 Yvetot
http://nav2000.com/LFOP Rouen
http://www.pilotlist.org/trombino/lecarbonnier.html
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen bottle size and mounting location |
I bought a Mountain High EDS-011 kit and an oxymiser for the back seater. I get
6 to 8 hrs with two users and now fly Xcountry up to 17500ft. Never have paid
more than $10 for a fill.
The kevlar cylinder is very light and narrow. Its straped vertically to the back
of the pilot
seat. I do need to remove the rear stick though.
Like it.
See www.mhoxygen.com/index.phtml?nav_id=28&product_id=64
rv8 n89gm, 260hrs
Greg
>
>
>
> Hello
>
> I am going to purchase an oxygen system for the -8 and need to know where
> others have 'mounted' a portable system, which brand, size of bottle, and
> how it is working out.
>
> No luck in the archives.
>
> Rob Miller
> N262RM -8 "Bad Cat" 66 hours
> Pictures can be seen at www.homebuiltairplanes.com
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone had an RV certified at a gross weight higher than Van's
recommends? Has anyone tried to get a gross weight increase on an RV already flying?
Thanks,
Doug Preston
RV8 N127EK
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV gross weight |
| From: | gvm <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
Gross weight was not a parameter of interest to the FAA when I had mine
certified. I have no gross weight stamped on the ID plate-only the data
was that specifically required by Feds--make, model, serial number
(which you make up), and date of manufacture.
I don't think experimental planes have a legal gross weight limit to
worry about. Nothing in the operating limitations says anything about
gross weight. Please correct me if this is wrong.
That said, I have not been able to load my RV8 over Van's gross limit so
far. I did weight our luggage once at 116 lb. But with the two of us,
and full fuel, I think we were still 20 lb under Vans recommendation.
Note that Alaska store-boughts can operate at 15% over gross legally.
RV8 N89GM, 250 hrs.
Greg
On Thu, 2003-05-22 at 20:55, Dougpsr(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone had an RV certified at a gross weight higher than Van's
> recommends? Has anyone tried to get a gross weight increase on an RV already
flying?
> Thanks,
> Doug Preston
> RV8 N127EK
>
> DNA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)TELUS.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Induction Planning |
Scott,
I concur with Esten and would also add reliability to his list of reasons.
The counterbalanced crank to me is perhaps the most important plus on this engine.I
have just made my decision to go with a Hartzell prop and after talking to
Hartzel it is obvious that there are no problems with vibration on this engine
even if you are using Lightspeed ignition.
Building RV8 tail,wings done working on fuselage.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy Skirt Attach Seal |
| From: | "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com> |
I am geting closer to attaching the skirt to the Plexy and Frame. What have
others used to seal between the skirt and the plexiglass? Is it necessary
to put some kind of selant between the two to keep water from seeping in
while sitting on ground or can I seal with some kind of non RTV along the
skirt/canopy junction after riviting it to frame? Searched archives but
couldn't find a reference to this.
Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Panama City Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Miller <millerdon(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Skirt Attach Seal |
Edward O'Connor wrote:
>
> I am geting closer to attaching the skirt to the Plexy and Frame. What have
> others used to seal between the skirt and the plexiglass? Is it necessary
> to put some kind of selant between the two to keep water from seeping in
> while sitting on ground or can I seal with some kind of non RTV along the
> skirt/canopy junction after riviting it to frame? Searched archives but
> couldn't find a reference to this.
> Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Panama City Fl
>
Ed & list -
If you are like most of the -8 builders I know, you will find the canopy skirt
to be
one of the more annoying tasks in the project. Just work steadily, keep your cool,
resign yourself to a significant amount of cutting/fitting/sanding, and you too
will
wind up with a nice fit and a good seal.
I had to cut the skirt in half and re-join it at the aft end. Cleco'd the skirt
to
the frame, sanded the aft-most point to a nice curve, and then started the glass
work. I simply used a small amount of moulding clay to fair the canopy track to
the
curve of the skirt, applied shipping tape over the clay, and smeared a lot of
release agent over the tape and on the areas of the fuselage where the skirt will
sit with the canopy closed. (I would have applied tape to these areas too if I
knew
then what I know now; the fit you get is so tight that a layer of paint makes a
big
difference in tightness!) I then mixed a generous amount of Gougon resin and
microbaloons to a peanut-butter consistency, applied it to the skirt where there
were gaps between the fuselage and skirt, closed the canopy and watched the resin
ooz to the exact shape of the fuselage. It perfectly closed a 3/16" gap I had
on
the left side. The following morning, I popped the skirt off and started sanding
to
the right exterior shape. A lotta work, but you'll love the result. At 200 mph
in
the wintertime, you don't need a blast of cold air on your passenger. Hope this
helps. By the way - when you get to the point of riveting the canopy/frame/skirt
together, examine each rivet to make sure you've got an aluminum rivet and not
a
cs-4! If you attempt to install a cs-4, you will crack the canopy for sure.
Don
N638DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Wilcox" <jerrywilcox(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Skirt to Plexi |
Ed; I think you were asking about sealing the canopy skirt to the plexi after it
is in place. What I do is after everything is fitted and rivited I put a strip
of masking tape around the very top of the skirt and another about 1/8" or
so up on the plexi. Then I mix up some of that wonderful fuel tank sealer, remember
that stuff, and use the rounded end of a popsicle stick to smooth it into
the space between the two tapes. It's paintable after its cured and I've had
good success with this on 3 RV6s and 2 RV8s. Just finished and flew 8# 81692
last weekend.
Jerry Wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Skirt Attach Seal |
| From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
I used a light weight clear silicon sealant made for windshields. It is
very fluid and weeped into plexi-skirt joint.
I also cut my skirt in half to get better fit-then joined the halves
with a .032 plate. I notched the center canopy rail under the plate and
installed a key lock in the plate.
n89gm, 260 hrs
Greg
On Fri, 2003-05-23 at 23:22, Edward O'Connor wrote:
>
> I am geting closer to attaching the skirt to the Plexy and Frame. What have
> others used to seal between the skirt and the plexiglass? Is it necessary
> to put some kind of selant between the two to keep water from seeping in
> while sitting on ground or can I seal with some kind of non RTV along the
> skirt/canopy junction after riviting it to frame? Searched archives but
> couldn't find a reference to this.
> Ed O'Connor/N366RV/Panama City Fl
>
>
--
Greg V. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N926MM |
Hi All fellow listers,
Today at about 12:30pm My Tech Counc. Fred LaForge took to the sky with my RV-8,
injected 180/CS . I flew chase with Gary Hart in his RV-6. As far as I could
tell it all went really well. We ate lunch after he landed, and then my mom gave
me the OK so I was out of there. Full throttle looked down to check oil pressure
and it was too late, already airborne and clmbing like crazy. Fred followed
in his RV-4 with RV-7 builder Robert Paisley. we took a long hot flight out
to the practice area and after some slow flight and quick manuevers we came
back to Cable and landed. It was my first hour and it was too short but the OAT
at 7,000' was over 100 and we had to get back.
So here are all those answers to the questions I had about first flights. Takeoff
roll-no idea, but short. Rate of climb 110kts 1680'/min. Cruise at 6500' no
gear fairings 125-130kts at 24/2400. All my temps were good the hottest cylinder
was #3 at 405 during climb and then 385 level. Coolest was #1 335. Oil temp
was 210-212 in the desert and 204 climbing out in the city. I have a firewall
mounted 7 row S/W oil cooler and an aluminum plenum. The GPS showed a continous
150-155kts but I was told that if I wanted to fly to OSH with the group I'd
have to put the fairings on and speed it up.
I can't thank the lists and the people at CCB enough for making all this possible,
without all this good advise and talented help I would still be working
on the tail kit.
Like Rosie says, "Keep Pounding those rivets"
Ed Perry
N926MM RV-8 180/CS
1.5 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
tomscherder(at)hotmail.com, vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Listers:
I am trying to decide the best way to route the wiring from the engie
instruments to the firewall in An RV8. With the location of the baggage
compartment, it seems you may have to go under it or run a conduit thru it?
Also what is the best way to route the pitot and static lines. I am up to
the panel, but not sure how to get the lines behind the panel unless I just
run the under it, bnut they will just be hanging there? ANy suggetsions.
Thanks.
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
I rivited an angle piece from the firewall to the instrument panel just
under the baggage floor and on the left side. All the wires are
suspended from that with cushion clamps. As for going under the panel,
just bundle them up with a cushion clamp.
Jim Bean
RV-8 engine room
Al Grajek wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I am trying to decide the best way to route the wiring from the engie
> instruments to the firewall in An RV8. With the location of the baggage
> compartment, it seems you may have to go under it or run a conduit thru it?
> Also what is the best way to route the pitot and static lines. I am up to
> the panel, but not sure how to get the lines behind the panel unless I just
> run the under it, bnut they will just be hanging there? ANy suggetsions.
> Thanks.
> Al Grajek
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 71 Bakersfield BBQ & Fly-in May 31st |
That's right this Saturday, May 31st make your plans to fly in to Bakersfield
Mun5), spend the day with us. EAA Chapter 71 is putting on one hell of a BBQ.
Lots of fast airplanes & good people. We will be serving around 2:30-3:00
Tri-tip, beans, Salad, Bread, & Beverages. The local weather man says it will be
another beautiful day in Bakersfield. Any questions please call Tim Barnes
(661) 393-7519 or John Harmon (661) 836-1028.................................See
ya there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopie |
I really like the idea of a windshield with a longer forward slope. We
need to convince Todd there is a market for it. Some background first;
A friend and neighbor (Ray Parker) started this thread about three days
ago. Ray is fitting a new windshield that he cut out of a 1/4" Todds Canopy.
What he didn't tell you was that he sent Todd a fiberglass mold he made from
his thin (>.10") fitted Vans Windshield. Todd was to send him a thicker
windshield made from the mold. Todd was told there was myself and another
RV8 Builder right here at Leeward Air Ranch that also would like to purchase
thicker RV8 Windshields only. After 6 weeks of thinking about it, Todd just
sent Ray a 1/4" Canopy for him to cut a windshield out of. He wasn't
convinced there was a market for thicker windshields for RV 8's.
Maybe we could do a poll on the RV list and present results to Todd.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) CANOPY! Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RE: [rv8list] Alternate canopie
There is quite a bit in the Matronics archives about Todd's canopies, but I
have an idea or suggestion. One of the nicest looking RV-8's I have seen in
photos had the windscreen modified to continue the slope down to the top of
the forward fuselage at a less steep angle than the standard canopy. I
apologize for not remembering the builder, but the plane had several
interesting ideas very skillfully incorporated into it. Since we cut off
the windscreen and do the final fitting separately, perhaps we could get
Todd to do a mold for blowing just the windscreen, which could be thicker
than the canopy itself to better resist bird strikes. It could also be a
different tint if that helped. Maybe no tint with a dark tint canopy? I'm
happy with Van's canopy, but I haven't fit the windscreen yet.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
Questions.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/CNxFAA/1yWplB/TM
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopie |
Esten/Ray
I would be interested in purchasing one of the 1/4" windshields only for the
RV8. I have thought about this for some time and think that it would improve
drag reduction and speed as well a provide safety from bird strikes. I would
prefer it to be the same tint as Vans windshield. I have over 700 hours on
my RV8 and find that the standard tint used by Van is quite comfortable in all
light situations.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
> I really like the idea of a windshield with a longer forward slope. We
>need to convince Todd there is a market for it. Some background first;
> A friend and neighbor (Ray Parker) started this thread about three days
>ago. Ray is fitting a new windshield that he cut out of a 1/4" Todds Canopy.
>What he didn't tell you was that he sent Todd a fiberglass mold he made from
>his thin (>.10") fitted Vans Windshield. Todd was to send him a thicker
>windshield made from the mold. Todd was told there was myself and another
>RV8 Builder right here at Leeward Air Ranch that also would like to purchase
>thicker RV8 Windshields only. After 6 weeks of thinking about it, Todd just
>sent Ray a 1/4" Canopy for him to cut a windshield out of. He wasn't
>convinced there was a market for thicker windshields for RV 8's.
> Maybe we could do a poll on the RV list and present results to Todd.
>Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) CANOPY! Leeward Air Ranch,
>Ocala, FL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
>To:
>Subject: RE: [rv8list] Alternate canopie
>
>
>There is quite a bit in the Matronics archives about Todd's canopies, but I
>have an idea or suggestion. One of the nicest looking RV-8's I have seen in
>photos had the windscreen modified to continue the slope down to the top of
>the forward fuselage at a less steep angle than the standard canopy. I
>apologize for not remembering the builder, but the plane had several
>interesting ideas very skillfully incorporated into it. Since we cut off
>the windscreen and do the final fitting separately, perhaps we could get
>Todd to do a mold for blowing just the windscreen, which could be thicker
>than the canopy itself to better resist bird strikes. It could also be a
>different tint if that helped. Maybe no tint with a dark tint canopy? I'm
>happy with Van's canopy, but I haven't fit the windscreen yet.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A #80729
>Seattle
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
>Questions.
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/CNxFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
>IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
>rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
RV8a almost ready for inspection..family issues force sale..0320-160hp..c/s/prop..and
more..$74,500.00 or best offer..503-678-3343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olc" <olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr> |
how did you apply corosion protect ?
product (Alodine 1200, TURCO, PAC33) ?
olc
Olivier
ICQ#: 82067330
olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr
http://www.pilotlist.org
http://nav2000.com/LF7622 Yvetot
http://nav2000.com/LFOP Rouen
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8int.htm plan n81939 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD |
Charlie,
Yahoo removed your attachment. What did Todd say? I've received about
half a dozen emails from others saying they too were interested in a 1/4"
more sloping windshield only for the RV8. I was going to attach them all to
an email asking him to reconsider.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD
> Listers,
> I forwarded several of the comments regarding a
> desire for a thicker windscreen to Todd Silver. Please
> see his reply below. It appears we need to take a poll
> to see if there is sufficient interest in doing this.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
>
> __________________________________
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
Questions.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
> IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
> rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chuck petersen <cat2fly(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD |
Count another RV8 builder for the canopy.
Chuck Petersen
cat2fly(at)yahoo.com
Esten Spears wrote:
Charlie,
Yahoo removed your attachment. What did Todd say? I've received about
half a dozen emails from others saying they too were interested in a 1/4"
more sloping windshield only for the RV8. I was going to attach them all to
an email asking him to reconsider.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Kuss"
Subject: Fwd: Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD
> Listers,
> I forwarded several of the comments regarding a
> desire for a thicker windscreen to Todd Silver. Please
> see his reply below. It appears we need to take a poll
> to see if there is sufficient interest in doing this.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
>
> __________________________________
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
Questions.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
>
> IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
>
> rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
---------------------------------
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD |
Chuck
Add me to the list for a thicker more sloping wndshield. I am cutting the
canopy today so I will need to know something fairly soon. Thanks for you
effort
Paul Schattauer
RV8 # 9
760 Amster Green Dr,
Atlanta GA 30350
770 394 8370
>From: chuck petersen <cat2fly(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD
>Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 23:57:22 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Count another RV8 builder for the canopy.
>
>Chuck Petersen
>cat2fly(at)yahoo.com
>
>Esten Spears wrote:
>
>Charlie,
>Yahoo removed your attachment. What did Todd say? I've received about
>half a dozen emails from others saying they too were interested in a 1/4"
>more sloping windshield only for the RV8. I was going to attach them all to
>an email asking him to reconsider.
>Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charles Kuss"
>To:
>Subject: Fwd: Re: [rv8list] Alternate canopy REPLY FROM TODD
>
>
> > Listers,
> > I forwarded several of the comments regarding a
> > desire for a thicker windscreen to Todd Silver. Please
> > see his reply below. It appears we need to take a poll
> > to see if there is sufficient interest in doing this.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> > Note: forwarded message attached.
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
>Questions.
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
> >
> > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> >
> > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> >
> > rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
> >
> >
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerald Kinman" <gerald.kinman(at)verizon.net> |
Add my name to the list of builders that need that .250" windshield. I am almost
ready to glass that part in and am tempted to buy a whole canopy if I was certain
the bubble section was truly a .250" thickness. Anybody out there that
has installed one of Todd's canopies that can verify that?
Gerald K 80271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windshield |
Gerald,
There is no one uniform thickness dimension. The thickness dimension
varies with the amount of stretch in the area you choose to measure. The
Canopies Vans sends out are blown from .187" sheet. Their thickness will
vary between .187" and .100" Unfortunately the maximum stretch and
therefore the .100" thickness occurs at the center where you cut the
windshield from the canopy.
Todd's .250" Canopies have the same stretching and therefore thinning,
but they start from .250" instead of .187" and so are significantly thicker.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved) CANOPY!, Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald Kinman" <gerald.kinman(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Windshield
>
> Add my name to the list of builders that need that .250" windshield. I am
almost ready to glass that part in and am tempted to buy a whole canopy if I
was certain the bubble section was truly a .250" thickness. Anybody out
there that has installed one of Todd's canopies that can verify that?
> Gerald K 80271
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windshield |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
I have one of Todd's .25 inch canopies and the thinnest portion is the top
which was correctly stated earlier as .133"
--
Michael Stephan
EAA Chapter 168
RV-8 builder
> From: "Gerald Kinman" <gerald.kinman(at)verizon.net>
> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 21:18:52 -0500
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Windshield
>
>
> Add my name to the list of builders that need that .250" windshield. I am
> almost ready to glass that part in and am tempted to buy a whole canopy if I
> was certain the bubble section was truly a .250" thickness. Anybody out there
> that has installed one of Todd's canopies that can verify that?
> Gerald K 80271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PAUL ANTOINETTE" <PaulAntoinette(at)msn.com> |
I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be interested in a
thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight N926MM |
That was probably the most fun you ever had with your pants on!
Congratulations!!!
Tom Lloyd N842TL Indy
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Perry <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: RV8-List: First Flight N926MM
>
> Hi All fellow listers,
>
> Today at about 12:30pm My Tech Counc. Fred LaForge took to the sky with my
RV-8, injected 180/CS . I flew chase with Gary Hart in his RV-6. As far as I
could tell it all went really well. We ate lunch after he landed, and then
my mom gave me the OK so I was out of there. Full throttle looked down to
check oil pressure and it was too late, already airborne and clmbing like
crazy. Fred followed in his RV-4 with RV-7 builder Robert Paisley. we took a
long hot flight out to the practice area and after some slow flight and
quick manuevers we came back to Cable and landed. It was my first hour and
it was too short but the OAT at 7,000' was over 100 and we had to get back.
> So here are all those answers to the questions I had about first flights.
Takeoff roll-no idea, but short. Rate of climb 110kts 1680'/min. Cruise at
6500' no gear fairings 125-130kts at 24/2400. All my temps were good the
hottest cylinder was #3 at 405 during climb and then 385 level. Coolest was
#1 335. Oil temp was 210-212 in the desert and 204 climbing out in the city.
I have a firewall mounted 7 row S/W oil cooler and an aluminum plenum. The
GPS showed a continous 150-155kts but I was told that if I wanted to fly to
OSH with the group I'd have to put the fairings on and speed it up.
> I can't thank the lists and the people at CCB enough for making all this
possible, without all this good advise and talented help I would still be
working on the tail kit.
>
> Like Rosie says, "Keep Pounding those rivets"
>
> Ed Perry
> N926MM RV-8 180/CS
> 1.5 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thicker canopy |
For all of you who are interested in a thicker more streamlined windscreen
for your RV8 - one of the guys in my EAA chapter 186 did just that last
year and here is the info he gave me:
Aircraft Plastics
9785 Julie Ct.
Tipp City, OH 45371
937-669-2677
937-669-2777 fax
cost one year ago was $200 plus shipping, five week turnaround, color #2515
to match Vans tint.
>
>
>I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be interested
>in a thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Len Leggette ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Len Leggette
Subject: Newly Painted RV-8A
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Lenleg@aol.com.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Wayne Petrus ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Wayne Petrus
Subject: RV8A pics
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Dwpetrus@aol.com.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
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| Subject: | [ Dave Pohl ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dave Pohl
Subject: Ted Gauthier's RV6
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| Subject: | [ Cash Copeland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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| Subject: | [ Tom Garner ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
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| Subject: | [ Bill Gunn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thicker canopy |
Aircraft Plastics are the people that supply Vans with canopies.
Todd at Todd's Canopies emailed me three days ago he was going to work
on a setup that would blow two windshields at once. His objective is to be
able to sell a RV8 Windshield only that is thicker and more streamlined for
a price that is hopefully significantly below this Aircraft Plastics price.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), CANOPY!, Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ritter" <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
>
> For all of you who are interested in a thicker more streamlined windscreen
> for your RV8 - one of the guys in my EAA chapter 186 did just that last
> year and here is the info he gave me:
>
> Aircraft Plastics
> 9785 Julie Ct.
> Tipp City, OH 45371
> 937-669-2677
> 937-669-2777 fax
>
> cost one year ago was $200 plus shipping, five week turnaround, color
#2515
> to match Vans tint.
>
>
> >
> >
> >I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be interested
> >in a thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thick RV-8 Canopy |
I too am interested in the thicker RV-8 canopy.
Count me in.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
Newberg, OR
rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorin Frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03 |
I had the nose gear of my RV8a collapse on landing at a grass field. The
nose gear of the 8 is the same as the 6 but carries more weight. We flipped
over and the canopy broke allowing us to crawl out with minor injuries.
This is the reason for the thin Plexiglass. I would not want to be trapped
in an upside down RV. Lorin
> [Original Message]
> From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
> To: RV8-List Digest List
> Date: 6/2/03 11:57:09 PM
> Subject: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
>
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2003-06-02.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2003-06-02.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 06/02/03: 2
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:58 AM - Re: thicker canopy (Esten Spears)
> 2. 06:36 AM - Thick RV-8 Canopy (Chris Stone)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
>
>
> Aircraft Plastics are the people that supply Vans with canopies.
> Todd at Todd's Canopies emailed me three days ago he was going to work
> on a setup that would blow two windshields at once. His objective is to be
> able to sell a RV8 Windshield only that is thicker and more streamlined
for
> a price that is hopefully significantly below this Aircraft Plastics
price.
> Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), CANOPY!, Leeward Air Ranch,
> Ocala, FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Ritter" <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
>
>
> >
> > For all of you who are interested in a thicker more streamlined
windscreen
> > for your RV8 - one of the guys in my EAA chapter 186 did just that last
> > year and here is the info he gave me:
> >
> > Aircraft Plastics
> > 9785 Julie Ct.
> > Tipp City, OH 45371
> > 937-669-2677
> > 937-669-2777 fax
> >
> > cost one year ago was $200 plus shipping, five week turnaround, color
> #2515
> > to match Vans tint.
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > >
> > >I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be
interested
> > >in a thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV8-List: Thick RV-8 Canopy
> From: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
>
>
> I too am interested in the thicker RV-8 canopy.
>
> Count me in.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
> Newberg, OR
>
> rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Lorin Frank
--- llfrank(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03 |
Thanks Lorin,
Does anyone know if Van's has addresssed the weak nosegear situation? This
seems like something that happens a lot and it should be an simple matter to
beef up the gear.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lorin Frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
>
> I had the nose gear of my RV8a collapse on landing at a grass field. The
> nose gear of the 8 is the same as the 6 but carries more weight. We
flipped
> over and the canopy broke allowing us to crawl out with minor injuries.
> This is the reason for the thin Plexiglass. I would not want to be trapped
> in an upside down RV. Lorin
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
> > To: RV8-List Digest List
> > Date: 6/2/03 11:57:09 PM
> > Subject: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
> >
> > *
> >
> > ==================================================
> > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ==================================================
> >
> > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
Hyperlinked
> > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> > version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
> >
> > HTML Version:
> >
> >
> >
> > Text Version:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ================================================
> > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ================================================
> >
> >
> > RV8-List Digest Archive
> > ---
> > Total Messages Posted Mon 06/02/03: 2
> >
> >
> > Today's Message Index:
> > ----------------------
> >
> > 1. 05:58 AM - Re: thicker canopy (Esten Spears)
> > 2. 06:36 AM - Thick RV-8 Canopy (Chris Stone)
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Plastics are the people that supply Vans with canopies.
> > Todd at Todd's Canopies emailed me three days ago he was going to
work
> > on a setup that would blow two windshields at once. His objective is to
be
> > able to sell a RV8 Windshield only that is thicker and more streamlined
> for
> > a price that is hopefully significantly below this Aircraft Plastics
> price.
> > Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), CANOPY!, Leeward Air
Ranch,
> > Ocala, FL
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Doug Ritter" <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
> >
> >
> > >
> > > For all of you who are interested in a thicker more streamlined
> windscreen
> > > for your RV8 - one of the guys in my EAA chapter 186 did just that
last
> > > year and here is the info he gave me:
> > >
> > > Aircraft Plastics
> > > 9785 Julie Ct.
> > > Tipp City, OH 45371
> > > 937-669-2677
> > > 937-669-2777 fax
> > >
> > > cost one year ago was $200 plus shipping, five week turnaround, color
> > #2515
> > > to match Vans tint.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be
> interested
> > > >in a thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Subject: RV8-List: Thick RV-8 Canopy
> > From: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
> >
> >
> > I too am interested in the thicker RV-8 canopy.
> >
> > Count me in.
> >
> > Chris Stone
> > RV-8 Wings
> > Newberg, OR
> >
> > rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --- Lorin Frank
> --- llfrank(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Please, before you panic all of the A model builders and
thinkinaboutbeinabuilders out there, have a look at the archives. If
something breaks it doesn't necessarily mean it's too weak. While you are
at it, you might search on the "weak wing theory" too. Also, have a look at
past issues of the Rvator.
My own conclusion is that nose gear aircraft are susceptible to damage in
rough fields and nose gear first touchdowns. Making it stronger usually
means making it heavier and/or making it more expensive. I am not convinced
that Van's doesn't have it right. I would be helpful to hear a more detailed
account from Lorin as to what happened.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Kevin P.
Leathers
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
Thanks Lorin,
Does anyone know if Van's has addresssed the weak nosegear situation? This
seems like something that happens a lot and it should be an simple matter to
beef up the gear.
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03 |
I know they change the radius's on the gear but thats it. I cant tell you
when that was done but quite a few years back (3~4?). When flying with Mike
Seager we started and ended the flight on a grass strip, always lifted the
nose at about 30~40 MPH and held it about 6' off the ground until lift off.
On landing held the nose off as long as possible and touched the nose wheel
down at about 20-30 MPH? I was worried about the bumps we were hitting. He
said nothing to worry about. I cant imagine a bump big enough to fold the
gear back, especially if holding the nose gear up on landing and touchdown.
A final note, RV's are NOT built for flight training, they do not have the
extra robust nose gear a 152/172 has. This basically means you had better
know what your doing especially if your landing on grass strips. Becoming
too comfortable and letting your guard down and not keeping that nose wheel
off the ground as soon/as long as possible can cost you. I do not fly off
of grass and probably never will, this is just my impression after talking
with Mike.
>
>
>Thanks Lorin,
>
>Does anyone know if Van's has addresssed the weak nosegear situation? This
>seems like something that happens a lot and it should be an simple matter to
>beef up the gear.
>
>Doc
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lorin Frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
>To: "RV8-List Digest Server"
>Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
>
>
>>
>> I had the nose gear of my RV8a collapse on landing at a grass field. The
>> nose gear of the 8 is the same as the 6 but carries more weight. We
>flipped
>> over and the canopy broke allowing us to crawl out with minor injuries.
>> This is the reason for the thin Plexiglass. I would not want to be trapped
>> in an upside down RV. Lorin
>>
>>
>> > [Original Message]
>> > From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>> > To: RV8-List Digest List
>> > Date: 6/2/03 11:57:09 PM
>> > Subject: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/02/03
>> >
>> > *
>> >
>> > ==================================================
>> > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>> > ==================================================
>> >
>> > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
>> > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>> > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
>Hyperlinked
>> > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
>> > version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
>> > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>> >
>> > HTML Version:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Text Version:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ================================================
>> > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> > ================================================
>> >
>> >
>> > RV8-List Digest Archive
>> > ---
>> > Total Messages Posted Mon 06/02/03: 2
>> >
>> >
>> > Today's Message Index:
>> > ----------------------
>> >
>> > 1. 05:58 AM - Re: thicker canopy (Esten Spears)
>> > 2. 06:36 AM - Thick RV-8 Canopy (Chris Stone)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ________________________________ Message 1
>> _____________________________________
>> >
>> >
>> > From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
>> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
>> >
>> >
>> > Aircraft Plastics are the people that supply Vans with canopies.
>> > Todd at Todd's Canopies emailed me three days ago he was going to
>work
>> > on a setup that would blow two windshields at once. His objective is to
>be
>> > able to sell a RV8 Windshield only that is thicker and more streamlined
>> for
>> > a price that is hopefully significantly below this Aircraft Plastics
>> price.
>> > Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), CANOPY!, Leeward Air
>Ranch,
>> > Ocala, FL
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Doug Ritter" <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
>> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: thicker canopy
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> > > For all of you who are interested in a thicker more streamlined
>> windscreen
>> > > for your RV8 - one of the guys in my EAA chapter 186 did just that
>last
>> > > year and here is the info he gave me:
>> > >
>> > > Aircraft Plastics
>> > > 9785 Julie Ct.
>> > > Tipp City, OH 45371
>> > > 937-669-2677
>> > > 937-669-2777 fax
>> > >
>> > > cost one year ago was $200 plus shipping, five week turnaround, color
>> > #2515
>> > > to match Vans tint.
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >I am about a year and a half from requiring, but would also be
>> interested
>> > > >in a thicker canopy. Any word on noise reduction?
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ________________________________ Message 2
>> _____________________________________
>> >
>> >
>> > Subject: RV8-List: Thick RV-8 Canopy
>> > From: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
>> >
>> >
>> > I too am interested in the thicker RV-8 canopy.
>> >
>> > Count me in.
>> >
>> > Chris Stone
>> > RV-8 Wings
>> > Newberg, OR
>> >
>> > rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --- Lorin Frank
>> --- llfrank(at)earthlink.net
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
Terry Watson wrote:
>My own conclusion is that nose gear aircraft are susceptible to damage in
>rough fields and nose gear first touchdowns.
---
To get a ticket today, is it even necessary to demonstrate competence
with rough and/or short field skills? Dunno... When I got mine it was
a required part of the training. Is it still? Might explain some of
these nose gear reports.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry A Wilcox ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry A Wilcox
Subject: RV8 Engine Instillation with Custom Exhaust System
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry A Wilcox ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry A Wilcox
Subject: RV8 #81692 Just prior to first flight
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Link to RV8 photo's with Chopped / lowered Canopy |
"RV-Yahoo list (E-mail)"
> http://www.butler-machinery.com/rv8/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone done a sliding canopy like Francis Butler's for an RV-4?
see.... http://www.butler-machinery.com/rv8/rv8.html
This looks like it would be terrific on my -4.
Ron Patterson
RV-4 (fwf)
N8ZD (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tailwheel fairing |
Hi Rvers,
I intended to install the tailwheel fairing on my 8. When I hold it in my hand,
I wasn't quite sure, if the full swivel would still work with it installed.
Who has an idea, drawing, how to install it? What is the best way to start?
Regards
RV8
D-EBRV
Flying
3 hours
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Slider |
Yes, Greg Klema has a slider with a crank ala Lyle Hefle in His RV4. I have
pictures if you need.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Patterson" <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Slick Slider
>
> Has anyone done a sliding canopy like Francis Butler's for an RV-4?
> see.... http://www.butler-machinery.com/rv8/rv8.html
> This looks like it would be terrific on my -4.
> Ron Patterson
> RV-4 (fwf)
> N8ZD (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern Darley,II" <vern(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/19/03 |
N880RV flies!
Number one RV-8 kit built and flown by Dave Hamilton
Sent in by Vern Darley,II [vern_at_mindspring.com]
Peachtree City, Georgia- Falcon RV Squadron today announced the first flight of
Dave Hamilton's RV-8, N880RV. Various family members and fellow RV'ers watched
as the beautiful RV-8 reached pattern height before reaching the end of the
runway.
With the watchful eye of wingman John Hess flying safety chase/camera ship in
his award-winning RV-4, Dave climbed to 6,500' and gave his new bird it's first
aerial workout after 7+ years of construction. Dave's kit was the first RV-8
kit shipped.
N880RV is equipped for IFR with a Garmin 430,GTX 327, GMA 340,and a three axis
autopilot. A three-bladed prop,200 HP Lycoming, Grove landing gear, "Holy" Cowl
and plenum compliment Dave's outstanding workmanship. A beautifully-designed
green, white,and gold color scheme are planned when the phase one hours are
flown off.
After the flight, friends and family retired to a nearby restaurant to celebrate.
What a great airplane! What a great bunch of people! What a great design!
Thanks Vans!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Meketa ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Meketa
Subject: RV8 flap actuator
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AL Malecha" <azflyer(at)theriver.com> |
RV-8 Quick Build Kit for sale. Call 928-474-9121 evenings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV-8 Builders' Meetings |
OK, gang, it's fast becoming "that time of the year" again -- Oshkosh
b'gosh!
For the last several years, a group of RV-8/-8A builders has gathered
under the trees in the Theater in the Woods at Oshkosh to swap lies,
tips and generally just put faces to the names of those with whom we've
swapped lies and tips online for months or even years. It's nothing
formal, and every builder or even builder wannabe is invited.
I haven't looked at the calendar yet to see what days might be best to
meet, but in the past we've used Thursday and either Saturday or Sunday
for meeting times and it's worked well. We've had anywhere from a
handful to a couple dozen participants in years past, and the group
keeps growing.
If anyone on (or off) the list would like to take the bull by the horns
and plan something else for a get-together, please step up -- no offense
will be taken. I've been a rather slow builder (it happens when college
tuition exceeds the cost of an engine!) and perhaps a more active
builder would like to plan the event. Let me know.
If nobody is just itchin' to host meetings, I'll just post some dates
and times for the usual meetings and we'll all just have a jolly ol'
time. I'll bring the nametags and Sharpies and, as usual, Bob Dimeo
will forget the donughts. :-)
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel_Zimmer(at)dell.com |
| Subject: | Out of Office AutoReply: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/25/03 |
I'm on vacation until Monday, July 7th. Please contact Bob Norman (3-5599)
if you need immediate assistance.
Thanks,
Dan Z
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh builders' meetings |
It has been brought to my attention that in my last post regarding the
organization of RV-8/8A builders' meetings at Oshkosh I misspelled the
word "doughnut."
My apologies to anyone who may have been offended by this oversight and
failure on my part to use spell check prior to posting.
Actually, I could claim that the misspelling was a deliberate attempt to
spell in North Texanese, a peculiar dialect mastered by Danny King.
However, since he has threatened to fly up here and kick my butt into
gear, I'd better be nice.
So, there you have it. That's why it's taking me soooooo long to build
this stupid plane -- I can't spell. As everyone knows, if you can't
spell doughnut, you certainly can't build a friggin' aeroplane ...
DOUGHNUT. DOUGHNUT. DOUGHNUT.
I think I have it now. :-)
(now you all know why I kept my N-number simple.)
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV-8 Builders' Meetings |
I suggest Thursday AM at 9:00. If that becomes the date I'll bring three
dozen mixed donuts from the Hanger Cafe.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Starn
Subject: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
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________________________________________________________________________________
Is anyone else planning on arriving at Oshkosh significantly BEFORE the
convention starts?
I routinely show up the Saturday before it opens to secure a decent
camping spot in Camp Scholler. Consequently, unless my wife or son is
accompanying me, I end up eating by myself each evening (at Friar
Tuck's, of course) and just relaxing.
Don't get me wrong -- that's the whole point of getting there early,
relaxation. However, if any builders are also getting there early and
want to get together just to shoot the breeze, contact me off-list
(N8RV(at)gte.net)
That's all.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Gary Zilik ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: CH Products Stick Grip
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd" <tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net> |
I'm about 5'-2" and my wife is about 4'-10". I'm building an RV8QB and am
thinking about shrinking the size of the canopy. I noticed that the canopy
and windshield on this weeks "RV of the Week" on Vans list appear smaller
than standard. No email address or any other contact info was listed. Does
anyone know how to contact that builder in the feature or any other who has
accomplished this task.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
I would like to install a crank canopy in my RV8a..anyone got the plans/or parts??thanks...jolly
in aurora, ore..<<>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: crank canopy |
>
> I would like to install a crank canopy in my RV8a..anyone got the plans/or
parts??thanks...jolly in aurora, ore..<<>>
>
>Call Lyle Hefel in Dubuque, Iowa @ 563 583 4657
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: crank canopy |
SUPER...thank you...jolly in aurora, or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: crank canopy
>
> >
> > I would like to install a crank canopy in my RV8a..anyone got the
plans/or
> parts??thanks...jolly in aurora, ore..<<>>
> >
> >Call Lyle Hefel in Dubuque, Iowa @ 563 583 4657
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Fred.Stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Please see the attached zip file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Please see the attached zip file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh Builders' Meetings |
OK, now that everyone has had an opportunity to weigh in on the issue --
and nobody volunteered to take over the meetings -- here's the scoop ...
Unless someone else convinces me otherwise, two RV-8 Builders' Meetings
will be held in the Theater in the Woods. The first meeting will be ...
********THURSDAY, JULY 31st, 9:00am********
(mainly because most people who responded said that they could make this
time, and more importantly because Tom Lloyd promised to bring doughnuts
if we meet then! Bob Dimeo, you're off the hook again this year.)
The second meeting will be ...
********SATURDAY, AUGUST 2nd, 9:00am********
(we've had such a poor turnout for the second meeting when it's been on
Sunday, we'll try a Saturday this year.)
These meeting times shouldn't interfere with the scheduled seminars
pertaining to RVs (according to the information graciously provided by
Kevin Horton.) Obviously, we can have as many or as few informal
meetings as our little hearts desire, but these two will be starting
points.
A few years ago, Van let me put a poster up at Van's tent where we
builders could sign up and register where we were camping -- or
otherwise hanging out -- to help us locate each other to mooch free
beer. If anyone feels the urge to take that little project, go for
it. My brain's tapped out remembering to bring Sharpies and name tags.
I'll send out a reminder about the meetings a few days before AirVulture
starts. Please make the meetings if you can -- it's a good time to put
a face with a name. Also, feel free to bring your project books, no
matter what stage your project's in. Everybody likes looking at
pictures!
See you at Oshkosh,
Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
I am the builder with the chopped canopy RV-8. Additional pictures can be seen
at the following link. Feel free to contact me direct.
http://www.butler-machinery.com/rv8/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd [mailto:tlloyd6250(at)comcast.net]
Subject: RV8-List: smaller canopy?
I'm about 5'-2" and my wife is about 4'-10". I'm building an RV8QB and am
thinking about shrinking the size of the canopy. I noticed that the canopy
and windshield on this weeks "RV of the Week" on Vans list appear smaller
than standard. No email address or any other contact info was listed. Does
anyone know how to contact that builder in the feature or any other who has
accomplished this task.
Tom Lloyd N842TL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrownScottA(at)aol.com |
Hey there listers,
I have some seats that I want to sell. The first is a rear Jon Johansen seat.
This seat is brand new, I just received it in the mail yesterday.
Unfortunately, the way that my -4 was built, it will not fit....But it looks gorgeous!!
I
will sell it for what I paid for it and I will pick up the shipping. Cost is
$450. It will fit an RV4 or an RV8.
The other seat is a helicopter seat. This seat I once saw in someone's RV4
(front seat) and it was the most comfortable seat I had ever sat in. He had it
mounted in there beautifully. The seat is extremely light (approx 3 lbs). The
metal needs to be painted, or better yet, powdercoated, to make it look just
gorgeous. I will sell this seat for $150.
I also have some brand new Wemac air vents, anodized black for sale. They
have never been installed into an aircraft. I am using 3 in my RV4, and I will
have 3 left. I will sell these for $100 each.
Please respond off-line to me.
Cheers!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | RV 8 skis/ extended range |
Hi.
Any one out there has flown an RV on skis ??
And have built an RV8 with extra fuel tanks, besides de wing tips ones?
Thank you.
Michel Gordillo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 8 skis/ extended range |
We put an extra tank in the baggage comp. on one.
N188rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Extra fuel tanks |
Hi Michel,
Try Scott Morrow at tanks a lot at:-
smcm75(at)aol.com
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra fuel tanks |
Thank you very much Colin. I will contact Scott and check.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Extra fuel tanks
>
> Hi Michel,
>
> Try Scott Morrow at tanks a lot at:-
> smcm75(at)aol.com
>
> Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"RV8ListVANS" ,
"VansAirForce"
| Subject: | Registration numbers |
Could someone tell me the web page to check for available N numbers, and the process
for reserving one?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Registration numbers |
Al --
Bill VonDane put together a very nice website that includes that information:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
That should get you started.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov> |
| Subject: | Registration numbers |
http://registry.faa.gov/aircraft.asp#SpecialN-Number
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Registration numbers
Could someone tell me the web page to check for available N numbers, and the
process for reserving one?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi builders,
I am looking for a system to hold the sliding canopy half open during taxi. Months
ago, I have seen a picture but can't remember where it was.
Does anybody have an address?
Sincerely
D-EBRV
Flying 5 hrs.
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
| Subject: | Sliding canopy Stop |
Canopy stop is available from Bill Davis in Estus, Fl. rvpilot(at)mpinet.net or
phone 352-483-7693 It's a nice spring loaded latch and knob which I think
sells for $20 or $25.
Give him a call.
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback
-----Original Message-----
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de [mailto:romeo.victor@t-online.de]
Subject: RV8-List: sliding canopy
Hi builders,
I am looking for a system to hold the sliding canopy half open during taxi.
Months ago, I have seen a picture but can't remember where it was.
Does anybody have an address?
Sincerely
D-EBRV
Flying 5 hrs.
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | EAA centennial list |
with lots of RV 8/8As
http://www.eaa.org/homebuilders/list/100.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sliding canopy |
You might try Larry Bowen at www.bowenaero.com
He has a very nice part that I copied and love. It has a positive stop of
open and close thus allowing you to have the canopy all the way open or just
half way.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
104 hrs. Race #87
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy Stop |
In a message dated 7/18/2003 8:11:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com writes:
> Canopy stop is available from Bill Davis in Estus, Fl. rvpilot(at)mpinet.net
> or
> phone 352-483-7693 It's a nice spring loaded latch and knob which I think
> sells for $20 or $25.
> Give him a call.
> Tom Clark
> RV-8 Fastback
>
I tried this one when it first came out ... did not like the fact that there
was no way to hold it in the open position ... had to use a rubber washer. I
now have one that has a positive lock (twist it) for open and close.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
104 hrs. Race #87
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: Ellison throttle body wanted
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:06:36 -0400
If anyone has an Ellison throttle body unit is working condition for sale,
let me know. I'm interested in putting it on a 160 hp O-320 D1A.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A 138 hours
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
Ellison throttle body wanted
If anyone has an Ellison throttle body unit is working condition for sale, let
me know. I'm interested in putting it on a 160 hp O-320 D1A.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A 138 hours
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | I have an O-320 D1A, 200 hours TTSN, asking $16k |
Hi Guys & Gals,
I've got a nice Lycoming O-320 D1A, 200 hours TTSN (total time since new),
with factory carb, mags, and more... asking $16-k to a good home, I'm located
in Coalinga California (middle of the state), I can't seem to get anyone in this
state, everyone who's interested is from "out-of-state". I can deliver within
reason. Give me a call or drop me an email if interested. Thanks,
Chuck
(559) 974-6733
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OSHKOSH BUILDERS' MEETINGS |
Since I'm leaving Friday morning bright and early, this will serve as
the last reminder of the planned RV-8/a Builders' Meetings at Oshkosh
this year.
Place: Theater in the Woods
Times:
First meeting --
********THURSDAY, JULY 31st, 9:00am********
The second meeting will be --
********SATURDAY, AUGUST 2nd, 9:00am********
These meeting times shouldn't interfere with the scheduled seminars
pertaining to RVs. Obviously, we can have as many or as few informal
meetings as our little hearts desire, but these two will be starting
points.
The weather forecast is sketchy so far for the upcoming week. Bring
your
umbrellas and a sense of humor!
See you all ("y'all" for Danny and his southern brethren) at AirVulture!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting the HS Skin to the HS607 Tip Rib |
Any helpful suggestions on how to hold the Horizontal Stabilizer Skin flat against
the flange of the HS607 Tip Rib, when riveting the rivet closest to the leading
edge ? When looking down the interior of the leading edge of the skin there
is a slight air gap (approx1/16") between the skin and the flange of the
HS607.
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, Calif (310) 392-1682
---------------------------------
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-320 in RV-8? |
Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8? |
I have one with a c/s prop..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8?
>
> Is anyone aware of a Lyc O-320 powerd RV-8(A)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Textor <Jack(at)personnelincorporated.com> |
| Subject: | Signing off for OSH |
Getting ready to head to OSH, Hope to see you all Tuesday at 9:00 in the
woods!
Jack Textor
RV8
Des Moines
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting the HS Skin to the HS607 Tip Rib |
Per Van's recommendation... Make a clamp from 3/4" ply that approximates
an old fashioned one piece clothespin. Be careful not to accidentally
deform the skin by forcing it against the rib flange. I bent the rib
flange slightly so that it mates flush with the skin at the leading
edge.
Chris Stone
RV-8 wings...
-----Original Message-----
From: Garey Wittich [mailto:gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Riveting the HS Skin to the HS607 Tip Rib
-->
Any helpful suggestions on how to hold the Horizontal Stabilizer Skin
flat against the flange of the HS607 Tip Rib, when riveting the rivet
closest to the leading edge ? When looking down the interior of the
leading edge of the skin there is a slight air gap (approx1/16") between
the skin and the flange of the HS607.
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, Calif (310) 392-1682
---------------------------------
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Starn
Subject: Rocket Wheel Pant Mod
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.07.27.03/index.html
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following information along with your email message and files:
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2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Starn
Subject: Cockpit Air Vents
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.1.07.27.03/index.html
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Here's an interesting idea from a European glider company that might make it
possible to get out of an RV-8 in a hurry. It's an inflatable bladder under
the seat that pushes the pilot (or passenger) up to the canopy rails after
releasing the seat belts, in about a second. You have to get the canopy out
of the way first, of course.
http://dgflugzeugbau.de/index-e.html
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
, ,
, ,
"David - O320 - Shani" ,
| Subject: | The O-320 D1A has been sold & taken away |
Thanks everyone... I wish I could sell you all an O-320, but I only had one.
Ron was the first to reply and true to his word, came and got it. Sooooooo,
the only engine I got left for sale is a 75 hp 2 stroke, 4 cylinder, McCullah
motor (carb, prop hub, exhaust, & mag included). However I wouldn't recommend
it for an RV, because it feels like it only weighs about 75 lbs. I got it
in trade from "a friend" who says it was for a Military Drone, it has zero time,
and it's used for gyro-planes mostly but they have been mounted on other
planes like Sonerai's, Kit Foxes, etc... Hey make an offer, I got no use for
it, and I'll let it go cheap (just something else I can tell my wife "I sold
it!".... that makes her happy).
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed |
Anyone who has picked up their wing kit from Van's them selves with a full
size truck but no roof rack, how did you set it in for a long drive? With a
standard 8' bed and the long box is 15.5' long, I would have 6.5' hanging
out the back of the truck so I thought about resting it at an angle over the
cab and into the bed. Has anyone done it this way? Did it damage the cab of
your truck at all, or worse, the wing parts? Did it ride OK?
I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions
(without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated!
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
Trying to finish emp to make room for wings....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed |
I move wings like that all the time..I did prop them up between the bed of
the truck and the top, and put an airmatress on the top of the truck, and
used a ratchet strap to hold everything dowm\n..however now I use a long
peice of plywood extending out the back of the tuuck and hang taill lights
( costco) off the back of the wing/crate..and put a couple of red flags back
there to boot..have gone clear across contry with no trouble..good luck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV8-List: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed
>
> Anyone who has picked up their wing kit from Van's them selves with a full
> size truck but no roof rack, how did you set it in for a long drive? With
a
> standard 8' bed and the long box is 15.5' long, I would have 6.5' hanging
> out the back of the truck so I thought about resting it at an angle over
the
> cab and into the bed. Has anyone done it this way? Did it damage the cab
of
> your truck at all, or worse, the wing parts? Did it ride OK?
>
> I'm picking up my wing kit a week from this Monday so any suggestions
> (without modifying my truck ;-) would be appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, Wa.
> Trying to finish emp to make room for wings....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kumhyr <inventor_cat(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed |
Rather than take a chance on scratching the roof of my
cab I laid the box in the bed.
An 8' bed is really ~10' when the tailgate is down.
Using ratcheting tiedowns cross the box from the front
bottom to center bottom. If your really paranoid you
can wrap the tied down around a 2x4 nailed to the
front of the box. and wrap the 2x4 with a tiedown. Put
a red flag on the back of the crate and off you go.
Davidk
RV-8A finish kit
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DENISE CAINE" <denisecaine(at)msn.com> |
I have 26.5 hours on my RV-8 with a lycoming 200hp Hartzell constant speed prop.
My oil temp is running 210 -212 f. at cruise 8,500 @65-70 degrees F OAT. I have
the straight bottom cowl without the lower scoop, so I cannot put my oil cooler
up
front. It is located where the battery should go on the firewall. If somebody
has a cure to make this cooler without my putting another oil cooler on I would
be so happy.
Sincerely,
Denise Caine
881DC SN 81403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: How to fit a 15' wing box in an 8' bed |
The root end of the two wing spars is much heavier than the other end.
If Vans can pack the box with both root ends on one end and that end of
the box is loaded towards the cab, you should have no problem. It will
be difficult to handle however with all the weight at one end.
Follow the suggetion to hang a light on the end and red flags for the
day and don't back into anyone or let them get too close.
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139
________________________________________________________________________________
You may want to try adding additional exit air vents/louvers on the bottom of your
cowl. We have 3 200 hp RV8's in the area and all of us have cut in additional
exit air louvers.
-----Original Message-----
From: DENISE CAINE [mailto:denisecaine(at)msn.com]
Subject: RV8-List: oil coolers
I have 26.5 hours on my RV-8 with a lycoming 200hp Hartzell constant speed prop.
My oil temp is running 210 -212 f. at cruise 8,500 @65-70 degrees F OAT. I have
the straight bottom cowl without the lower scoop, so I cannot put my oil cooler
up
front. It is located where the battery should go on the firewall. If somebody
has a cure to make this cooler without my putting another oil cooler on I would
be so happy.
Sincerely,
Denise Caine
881DC SN 81403
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody know who Konrad Werner is? (Connywerner(at)qwest.net)
I just received an e-mail from him with text relating to the weights of
RVs, so it caught my attention. When I clicked on the attachment --
which purported to be a spreadsheet of empty weights of completed RVs as
compiled by Van's -- my antivirus program deleted it (thankfully!)
If you also receive this message, DON'T OPEN THE ATTACHMENT! It's
called: "Log.txt.scr"
So, Konrad, if you're out there, don't send me anymore e-mails!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
A_MEN!,,
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Virus
>
> Anybody know who Konrad Werner is? (Connywerner(at)qwest.net)
>
> I just received an e-mail from him with text relating to the weights of
> RVs, so it caught my attention. When I clicked on the attachment --
> which purported to be a spreadsheet of empty weights of completed RVs as
> compiled by Van's -- my antivirus program deleted it (thankfully!)
>
> If you also receive this message, DON'T OPEN THE ATTACHMENT! It's
> called: "Log.txt.scr"
>
> So, Konrad, if you're out there, don't send me anymore e-mails!
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
I got the same message, but Norton Anti-virus caught it. Konrad Werner is
on the RV list, but it's important to understand that he probably had
nothing to do with sending you (or me) the virus. If I understand it
correctly, he is the victim, not the perpetrator. His name is probably in
the address list of the infected computer, just as yours or mine might be.
The virus could be being sent in your name or mine instead of his. DON'T
open unexpected attachments.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N8RV(at)gte.net
Subject: RV8-List: Virus
Anybody know who Konrad Werner is? (Connywerner(at)qwest.net)
I just received an e-mail from him with text relating to the weights of
RVs, so it caught my attention. When I clicked on the attachment --
which purported to be a spreadsheet of empty weights of completed RVs as
compiled by Van's -- my antivirus program deleted it (thankfully!)
If you also receive this message, DON'T OPEN THE ATTACHMENT! It's
called: "Log.txt.scr"
So, Konrad, if you're out there, don't send me anymore e-mails!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
Terry --
Right, I understand how a virus can do that. My intent was to make sure that
others on the list look for this e-mail from Konrad and NOT open the
attachment and also to make poor Konrad aware that his system is sending out
the virus, not to flame him.
When I see RV-related messages, I automatically assume that they're from
friends. I failed to see the attachment was not RV-related, nor did the
message come from the RV lists to which I subscribe. There was a time when we
didn't need to be quite so vigilant in opening our e-mails ...
>sigh<
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
*******************
I got the same message, but Norton Anti-virus caught it. Konrad Werner is
on the RV list, but it's important to understand that he probably had
nothing to do with sending you (or me) the virus. If I understand it
correctly, he is the victim, not the perpetrator. His name is probably in
the address list of the infected computer, just as yours or mine might be.
The virus could be being sent in your name or mine instead of his. DON'T
open unexpected attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thank you Don, will do so!!
"Jolly" schrieb:
>
> A_MEN!,,
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N8RV(at)gte.net>
> To: "RV8 List" ; "RV-8 List"
>
> Subject: RV8-List: Virus
>
>
> >
> > Anybody know who Konrad Werner is? (Connywerner(at)qwest.net)
> >
> > I just received an e-mail from him with text relating to the weights of
> > RVs, so it caught my attention. When I clicked on the attachment --
> > which purported to be a spreadsheet of empty weights of completed RVs as
> > compiled by Van's -- my antivirus program deleted it (thankfully!)
> >
> > If you also receive this message, DON'T OPEN THE ATTACHMENT! It's
> > called: "Log.txt.scr"
> >
> > So, Konrad, if you're out there, don't send me anymore e-mails!
> >
> > -- Don McNamara
> > N8RV
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 8122 48383
Fax +49 (0) 8122 902188
Mobil +49 (0) 179 105 9749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | R-710 rudder horn brace doesn't fit?!? |
So has anyone else found the pre-drilled holes for the rudder horn brace
that attach it to the 704 rib and 405 horn, not to line up? I could not get
the holes to line up for the life of me without putting so much stress on
the spar and rib that I'm sure it would crack before the plane was finished.
The bummer is that if those predrilled holes weren't there, I could've
drilled my own holes and it would've fit nicely......doh! I finally moved
on to the elevator until I had time to call Van's.
So this morning I finally call Van's. Someone there told me this has been a
problem for others as well and they are thinking about not predrilling those
holes anymore. In the meantime, he said they can't give me a non-predrilled
horn brace because they are already fabricated with the holes. He then
suggested that I cut off the flange that attaches to the horn and fabricate
a new flange that would rivet to the horn and then rivet to the brace. Not
my favorite option but I guess it will have to do. Just wondering if anyone
else has had this problem as he said, and if so, what solution did you use?
-Will Allen
North Bend, Wa
RV8 emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm working on an estimated costed Bill Of Material (BOM) for my RV-8A. It
will be used for getting quotes. I want to make it as complete as possible
down to lighting, paint, interior, etc. Can anyone suggest where I might
find one or more for reference?
ERic--
RV-8A
Asheville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
Eliminate pop-ups before they appear!
Visit www.PopSwatter.com now - It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | high oil temperature |
Hi builders,
my 8 is in the air since April. However the oil temperature is quite high. It's
between 205-225F.
I use a IO360A1B6 with the normal Vans cowling and a Positech cooler with external
entry.
Any ideas??
Thank you
--
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49-8122-48383
Fax +49-8122-902188
Mobile +49-179-1059749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high oil temperature |
>
>Hi builders,
>
>my 8 is in the air since April. However the oil temperature is quite high.
It's between 205-225F.
>I use a IO360A1B6 with the normal Vans cowling and a Positech cooler with external
entry.
>
>Any ideas??
>
>Thank you
>
>--
>
>Stephan J.W. Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>Tel. +49-8122-48383
>Fax +49-8122-902188
>Mobile +49-179-1059749
>
>Dear Stephan,
I experienced the same problems you are having when I completed my RV8 4 years.
ago. The problem is with the Positech oil cooler. They do not have near the
cooling capacity of aircraft oil coolers. Remove it and replace it with a 9
or 10 row Niagara oil cooler and mount it behind and slightly above cylinder
number 4 on the rear baffle. Tilt it back and down 25 1/2 degrees (maximum
tilt without rubbing the engine mount). This will give you maximum cooling
and has worked well in all temperature ranges up to 100 degrees air temperatures
and more with the IO360AlB6 engine. Niagara coolers can be purchased out of
Trade A Plane. They are usually discounted to approximately $300.00. Be sure
and install with long bolts through both flanges of the oil cooler with tube
spacers between the flanges (otherwise cooler flanges will crack). Good luck.
Where is Bockhorn? I may travel to England this fall for bird hunting and
my english friend has a airplane. It would be fun to fly over for a lunch and
visit.
Auf Wiedersehn,
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: high oil temperature |
I have read about this many times here and it appears that many aircraft
with the larger engines need to enlarge the exit area of the cowl. Many do
this by adding additional exit air louvers. I have a modified O-360 which
will put out 200HP. Since I have not painted my cowl yet I will put these in.
>
>Hi builders,
>
>my 8 is in the air since April. However the oil temperature is quite high.
>It's between 205-225F.
>I use a IO360A1B6 with the normal Vans cowling and a Positech cooler with
>external entry.
>
>Any ideas??
>
>Thank you
>
>--
>
>Stephan J.W. Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>85461 Bockhorn
>Germany
>Tel. +49-8122-48383
>Fax +49-8122-902188
>Mobile +49-179-1059749
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
"VansAirForce" ,
"RV8ListVANS"
| Subject: | vacuum system routing |
Does anybody have some pictures or explanation on how best to route the vacuum
lines from the firewall aft to the back of the panel on an RV8.Through the baggage
area or under it or what?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and after spending
an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit nicely, it's not heavy enough to
buck the rivet and now that I'm done throwing things around in the garage, I
thought I'd come in and ask.....
How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA
RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing boxes!!!!!!!
Arrrrgh)
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear fellows,
I am still working on my oil problem. I have a 3" NACA inlet on the
right side of my cowling, which provides my oil cooler. Cooler was from
Positech and is now exchanged to a SW. But temperature is still too
high.
Is it possible, that I need an extra air channel from the back side of
the oil cooler which routes the air outside of the cowling and will not
mix with the warmer air from the engine? Somebody told me, that the
backpressure in the area behind the engine could be too high?
Is that right? Ideas?
Stephan Servatius
D-EBRV
8 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator? |
I just did an elevator for a 7. The last rivet was back riveted. I have a
bucking bar that is about 3 inches wide. It is flat on one side and tapered
to a point on the other. Put the elevator rivet head side down on your back
riveting plate. Slide the flat side of the bucking bar over the back of the
rivet. Use a regular flat riveting head on your rivet gun. Put the gun on
the bucking bar as close to the elevator as you can and fire.
Ross Mickey
N9PT 6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV8-List: how to reach the last ramaing rivets on the elevator?
>
> OK, I give up...... I can't reach them with my squeezer and after
spending
> an hour grinding down a bucking bar to fit nicely, it's not heavy enough
to
> buck the rivet and now that I'm done throwing things around in the garage,
I
February 22, 2003 - August 20, 2003
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ae