RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ag
March 30, 2004 - December 05, 2004
>>> NOTICE TO AIRMEN! <<<
Announcing the Sixteenth Annual SMXgig
to be held on April 30 - May 2, 2004
at the Radisson on the Santa Maria (CA) Airport (aka SMX)
www.smxgig.org
SMXgig will be April 30 - May 2, 2004, at the Santa Maria Radisson. This year,
our featured speaker after Friday night's dinner will be Rod Machado!
"MACH 2 WITH MACHADO" is the byline Rod Machado has earned for his rapid fire delivery
at his lively safety seminars and keynote speeches. His programs are information-packed,
energetic, and humorous. He has spoken in all fifty of the
United States and in Europe sharing his fresh approach to aviation education.
If you can make it, please do. It's going to be pretty special. More information and the announcement/ registration info is available at www.smxgig.org You may also contact me by email at: cory(at)smxgig.org.
All technical sessions will be held in the Enterprise Ballroom at the SMX Radisson.
Each session will last about an hour. We schedule four tech sessions on Saturday
morning, and four on Sunday morning. Most of the speakers are set (I'm
still firming up a couple of slots - I'm working on a session about Experimentals):
MIKE BUSCH - The Art and Science of Troubleshooting
Your A frequently, that person is you. That's particularly true of problems that
occur only in-flight and/or are intermittent. This session offers methodology
for troubleshooting aimed at aircraft owners who aren't A&Ps.
ED WILLIAMS - GPS - How It Works, and How to Work It
Ed is a nuclear physicist working at Lawrence Livermore Labs. Ed does a
remarkable job of making physics phun!
BRENT BLUE, M.D. - Pilot Medicals: How to Avoid Problems with the FAA
Brent is an AME Advocate, who specializes in helping the tough cases renew their
medicals. He's a former member of EAA's medical advisory committee.
DOUG RITTER - Equipping Yourself To Survive - Personal Survival Gear for Pilots
Doug is a survival evangelist, personally driven to help pilots live through whatever comes next. www.equipped.org
PAUL MILLNER - The Future of Avgas
Paul works with ChevronTexaco, and is right in the middle of the industry developments
regarding our fuel of choice.
MARY DUFFY & UWE LEMKE - Flying in Europe
Mary and Uwe are a Scot and a German who live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but
return "home" often.
As always, each qualifying session will get you a WINGS Safety Session card.
Our Saturday evening event should be a delicious one! At 5:45 p.m., the BFUB (Big Fat Ugly Bus) will arrive at the Santa Maria Radisson to bring us to the Far Western Tavern for dinner in beautiful Guadalupe (www.farwesterntavern.com).
DOLLARS AND CENTS
Just as in previous years, there will be one flat all-encompassing "gig" fee that
covers all events that involve significant out-of-pocket costs for the organizers.
The fee is $160 per person, and will cover:
- Friday afternoon welcome party
- Friday evening dinner banquet
- Saturday and Sunday tech sessions
- Saturday afternoon lunch
- Saturday evening dinner at the Far Western Tavern in Guadalupe
- Meeting rooms and coffee service at the Santa Maria Radisson
- Transportation to (and from) the Far Western Tavern
Lodging at the SMX Radisson will cost $89.00/night for either a single or double
room, which is far below the regular hotel room rate. Be sure you check in as
a SMXgig attendee and get the special rate. We have our definitive preference
listed with the hotel for rampside rooms - early registration can only help,
but of course, the rampside rooms are subject to availability depending on how
many existing guests are in those rooms.
You do not need to register with the hotel - just give me your preferences, and
I will take care of the reservations.
Important: This year, our final rooming lists are due to the hotel on April 11,
2004 (the even of Sun 'n Fun), which will guarantee space and the group rate.
The hotel will accept additional room reservations after that, on a space- and
rate-available basis. They will try their best to accommodate us after that
date, but the hotel is already sold out for the weekend.
The website (www.smxgig.org) has detailed information about the schedule, meals, hotel accommodations, and online registration. If you'd like your own announcement/registration emailed to you, or have any other questions, just let me know. (cory(at)smxgig.org or bootless(at)earthlink.net ).
Thanks, and see you there!
best, Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here today, but the
engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone give me a good recommendation
on where to locate the cabin heat box on the firewall? I want to go
ahead and install as much stuff on the firewall as possible before installing
the engine. Don't want to find out later that I put it in the wrong spot!
Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Ripley
N821DT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | QB fuselage items to complete |
Listers,
I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual
to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone
invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that
remain to be done on the QB fuselage?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ wings nearing completion
QB fuselage items to complete
Listers,
I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual to
identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone invented
this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that remain to
be done on the QB fuselage?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ wings nearing completion
________________________________________________________________________________
As far as I could tell, your limited to right between the rudder peddles.
Baggage compartment on the left and fuel/cables on the right. Of course
with more work you could put it anywhere you want. The easy spot, between
the ruder peddles.
>
>I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here today,
>but the engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone give me a
>good recommendation on where to locate the cabin heat box on the firewall?
>I want to go ahead and install as much stuff on the firewall as possible
>before installing the engine. Don't want to find out later that I put it in
>the wrong spot!
>
>Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Doug Ripley
>N821DT (reserved)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: QB fuselage items to complete |
>I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual
>to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone
>invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that
>remain to be done on the QB fuselage?
I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything
before the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC.
My book is in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown.
It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is
already done with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to
figure out, but it took time. I'd also love to see an index
for the part numbers referenced in the text.
A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | QB fuselage items to complete |
Mickey,
Thanks for the information. I checked with Van's before contacting the List.
I was told that they had no checklist of work left to complete, either. It
is a bit tedious working through the manual and checking each item off, but
I suppose that it orients the builder to the machine!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Mickey Coggins [mailto:mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: QB fuselage items to complete
>I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders
>manual to identify which items are done and which need to be completed.
>Has anyone invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist
>of items that remain to be done on the QB fuselage?
I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything before
the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC. My book is
in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown.
It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is already done
with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to figure out, but it took time.
I'd also love to see an index for the part numbers referenced in the text.
A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: QB fuselage items to complete |
Vans said it so the builder will be more familiar with everything if you
have to find out for your self.
>
>
>>I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual
>>to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone
>>invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that
>>remain to be done on the QB fuselage?
>
>I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything
>before the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC.
>My book is in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown.
>
>It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is
>already done with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to
>figure out, but it took time. I'd also love to see an index
>for the part numbers referenced in the text.
>
>A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS!
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
For helpful information see:
See Nov 03 Archieves:
"A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION
CONTROL"
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Grebe" <davidgrebe(at)comcast.net> |
Doug,
On my -8 I've got the same engine and put the heat box just off the left
rudder pedal position, and vertically about centered between the oil
reservoir and the fuel line. My thinking is that for starters I'm using
a simple deflector to spread the heat out, and after some time in the
air I can get to it easy enough inside to add defroster and/or directed
heat runs.
Dave Grebe
N841G (gas in tanks, oil in sump, hoping to start the engine for 1st
time this weekend)
North Wales, PA
I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here
today, but the engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone
give me a good recommendation on where to locate the cabin heat box on
the firewall? I want to go ahead and install as much stuff on the
firewall as possible before installing the engine. Don't want to find
out later that I put it in the wrong spot!
Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location?
Thanks in advance,
Doug Ripley
N821DT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Please save me from RV-8 remorse |
In a message dated 4/1/2004 4:24:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mikel(at)SSD.FSI.com writes:
> Fellow RV-8/8A lovers,
>
> I was just making more progress on my wings last night, when a nasty thought
> hit me: "Why am I building an RV-8 -- an RV-7 would be much better, in
> terms of passenger comfort, as a platform for getting my instrument rating,
> and in terms of baggage space."
>
> When I started on my -8, I was single, and had the "fighter plane"
> mentality. Now that I just got married, I have to think that maybe the wife
> would be happier in a side-by-side. I even considered trying to figure out
> if my existing -8 wings and tail could be used in a -7, but alas, I have
> already received the -8 fuselage. (FWIW, the wife has not expressed a
> tandem/SBS preference either way; she just wishes I would take her flying in
> SOMETHING first before this plane is done...) ;-)
>
> So, what I'm hoping for is for some encouragement from some of y'all who are
> happily flying your RV-8's/RV-8A's that I've got a great plane going here
> and that I don't need to backtrack to doing a -7.
>
> Thanks for any encouragement.
>
> Michael Lawson
>
Michael:
My wife flies with me in my 8A a lot. Longest trip was from North Carolina
to Key West. She does not have an interest in working the radios, flying the
plane, etc. so she is perfectly happy in the tandem. If she wanted to be more
of a "pilot" or "helper" then maybe she would prefer SBS.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
222 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
Subject: | Re: Please save me from RV-8 remorse |
I am getting ready to fly my "8" and center line seating is ideal for both
passengers. She can see equally well out both sides and has more room. I
also have built a Christen Eagle and my wife liked the back seat in that
too. Besides the pilot is suppose to be sitting in the center of the
airplane. Ever seen a bird with his head off center? You will find that
most wives aren't interested in just drilling around for the joy of flying
but are most interested in the destination. Consequently you will be flying
solo a lot and center line seating is where it's at for that kind of flying.
Also if the "8" doesn't have enough baggage space you're taking to much junk
along.
Rich Crosley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: paint the canopy slider? |
In a message dated 4/5/2004 11:23:32 PM Central Standard Time, K9HXT(at)msn.com
writes:
Most leave it bare. I did.
Larry, RV-6A flying and mentoring a guy on a RV-8, about done.
We polished ours.
Doug Preston
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Front Baggage Door |
Fellow builders,
How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is there anyone who has
found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the form-in-place type of
gasket material could be used along the sides and bottom. The hinge
however is a total mystery.
Jim Bean
RV-8
about to attach wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Front Baggage Door |
Hi Jim,
You should contact Chris Sands. He did a really nice
job on his baggage door. His email is
csands9551(at)aol.com If you need help with installing
the wings let me know.
Rick
RV-8 Tail done
wing kit ships in May
--- Jim Bean wrote:
>
>
> Fellow builders,
> How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is
> there anyone who has
> found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the
> form-in-place type of
> gasket material could be used along the sides and
> bottom. The hinge
> however is a total mystery.
> Jim Bean
> RV-8
> about to attach wings.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/01/04 |
Jim:
The door on N888GK didn't leak at all, even though it looked like it should
along the hinge line.
George Kilishek
>From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV8-List Digest List
>Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/01/04
>Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 23:57:22 -0700
>
>*
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
>Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
>of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
>Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
>version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
>text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-05-01.html
>
>Text Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-05-01.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 05/01/04: 1
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 08:02 PM - Front Baggage Door (Jim Bean)
>
>
>________________________________ Message 1
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
>Subject: RV8-List: Front Baggage Door
>
>
>Fellow builders,
>How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is there anyone who has
>found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the form-in-place type of
>gasket material could be used along the sides and bottom. The hinge
>however is a total mystery.
>Jim Bean
>RV-8
>about to attach wings.
>
>
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Horn |
Stien.
The horn probabaly is not worn. My problem was the little plunger that
clicks in the cut out was stuck. Take apart, clean, take a file and deburr
the plunger tha rides on the spring, make sure it is free and loose. Walla.
problem solved.
Bob Lynch RV6 450 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <rdaulton3(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Instrument panel layout programs |
Fellow RV'rs...do any of you know of a program that can be used to lay out instrument
panels. I am told that such a program exists. It will allow one to move
instruments, switches, ect around in a panel of the size one desires.
Please help if you can....Thanks...Rod Daulton
rdaulton3(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bigsky.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument panel layout programs |
Rod,
Try http://www.epanelbuilder.com/
Mauri Morin
----- Original Message -----
From: <rdaulton3(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Instrument panel layout programs
>
> Fellow RV'rs...do any of you know of a program that can be used to lay out
instrument panels. I am told that such a program exists. It will allow one
to move instruments, switches, ect around in a panel of the size one
desires.
>
> Please help if you can....Thanks...Rod Daulton
> rdaulton3(at)comcast.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
Subject: | Monroy ADT-300 Traffic Detector |
For the last couple of weeks, I have had a number of calls from builders
inquiring about the arrival of additional ADT-300 units. We sold out
our first batch fairly quickly, and have received a second batch.
However, it appears that the manufacturer can't seem to catch with the
demand fast enough, so we don't know how long they will be around for
those that interested.
If you are interested in finding out about the product, you can see can
click here http://www.affordablepanels.com/monroy300.htm
Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com <http://www.affordablepanels.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | deburring the canopy edges |
How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques are
folks using?
Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only after the
last or nearly last cut/fit?
Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own weight
if laid on the unfinished edges?
thx,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start
again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for
trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for
trial fit.
Deburr the edges
handle with care
get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up
around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!!
You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques are folks using?
>
> Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
>
> Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on.
I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of
times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been
using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-)
lucky
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:18:33 -0400
With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start
again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for
trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for
trial fit.
Deburr the edges
handle with care
get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up
around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!!
You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
>
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques are folks using?
>
> Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
>
> Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: deburring the canopy edges |
Little of both.....no matter how good you are, you still need a little luck
to get through the canopy with no troubles!
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
>
> Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on.
>
> I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of
> times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been
> using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-)
>
>
> lucky
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
> Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:18:33 -0400
>
>
> With a name like lucky, don't worry about it!
> Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then
> 400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and
start
> again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget
> Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will
> crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage
for
> trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I
> grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it
for
> trial fit.
>
> Deburr the edges
> handle with care
> get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp
up
> around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to
> break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!!
>
> BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct
> over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE
#40!!!
> You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do.
>
> If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges
>
>
> >
> > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
> tools/techniques are folks using?
> >
> > Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only
> after the last or nearly last cut/fit?
> >
> > Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own
> weight if laid on the unfinished edges?
> >
> > thx,
> > lucky
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges |
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques
> are folks using?
I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of
the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with
the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine
haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A
canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway,
I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between
fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one
little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go
over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough
edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm
buying one for my own canopy, this time.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges |
Thanks to all who've replied, I have a hand held belt sander and will use it
w/ 80 grit paper before I do anything else.
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 17:16:35 -0400
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and
tools/techniques
> are folks using?
I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of
the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with
the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine
haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A
canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway,
I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between
fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one
little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go
over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough
edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm
buying one for my own canopy, this time.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit |
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV8 canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit |
In a message dated 5/15/2004 9:08:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, RV8ter writes:
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 09:08:57 EDT
Subject: canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit
-------------------------------1084626537
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider.
Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's
going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's
what I should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just
one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one
really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of
the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's
up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there
before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy
frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear
cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've
been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the
back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel
face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight
fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
-------------------------------1084626537
The plans show thecanopy frame rearbow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once
I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider.
If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going
to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I
should do, more or less, right?
Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear=20after just one
initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really
bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better.
Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the
canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up
to a one inch space on each side betweenthe canopy and rail back there before
the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame
rear bow.The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits
are matchup pretty good, for what that's=20worth.
Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been
trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The
canopy leading edgeis sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as
the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and
aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big.
thx,
lucky
-------------------------------1084626537--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 flap motor rubs |
I am installing my flap motor,
on my RV-8 quick build,
and have a problem with the flap motor
rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover.
I may need another 1/4" clearance.
I have not yet installed the wings
and flaps.
Have others had this problem?
And if so how did they fix it?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-8 flap motor rubs |
From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
I had the same problem. I placed the nutplates as directed in the flooring, and found when instaling the rear side panel, the flap motor rubbed against the panel. A call to Van's did not yield a solution, as the flap motor is made one way, and you cannot obtain a flap motor with the motor offset on the opposite side. I solved my problem by filing the sides of the trunion (pivot point) below the motor from round to flat, and installing spacer washers to move the trunion outboard. It now clears the panel. you don't really lose much strength by filing the round trunion to flat on the sides.--- On Sat 05/15, GEORGE INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net wrote:From: GEORGE INMAN [mailto: ghinman(at)allstream.net]To: rv8-list(at)matronics.comDate: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:06:10 -0500Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 flap motor rubs-- RV8-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" I am installing my flap motor,on my RV-8 quick build,and have a problem with the flap motorrubbing on the F-876PP-L aft
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs |
> Have others had this problem?
Yep, pretty common actually. Another one of those things that should
have been addressed long ago.
> And if so how did they fix it?
I chopped the mounting tab off the end of the flap weldment, fabricated
a new one from 4130 steel, and had it welded on about 1/4" outboard. I
had gobs of room outboard, but could find no other way to keep from
hitting the inboard cover plate since the interference was also at the
very top of the travel and moving the cover bottom mounting holes in
did no good.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk> |
Subject: | Proseal shrinkage ? |
After what seems many long hours of meticulously preparing the fuel tank parts
for final assembly, I finally got round to sealing and riveting the tank stiffeners
into both tanks late last week.
Everything seemed to go to plan, however, now after three days, I have returned
to start preparing for riveting and sealing the ribs in, I have noticed that
on quite a lot of the blobs of sealer which I put on each rivet on the stiffeners,
there appears to be a gap or hole appeared in the sealer, where I can see
through to either the rivet or side of the dimple , depending on where they
have appeared, almost as if the sealer has shrunk away as it has started to cure,
or if there were a small amout of air in the sealer which has now found it's
way to the surface.
I'm only talking of a pin head size hole here, but wondered if it was anything
to worry about, and is it ok to go over each rivet again with fresh sealer when
I do the ribs ?
There was no contamination on the stiffeners or rivets, as all parts were cleaned
and washed in acetone and dried prior to bonding.The sealer is fresh from Vans
last week.
All comments welcome.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs |
From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
Mine too. I put clear plastic packing tape on both surfaces and just let
them rub. 350 hours, no worries...
On Sat, 2004-05-15 at 16:06, GEORGE INMAN wrote:
>
> I am installing my flap motor,
> on my RV-8 quick build,
> and have a problem with the flap motor
> rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover.
> I may need another 1/4" clearance.
> I have not yet installed the wings
> and flaps.
> Have others had this problem?
> And if so how did they fix it?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)allstream.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs |
They talk about this on the tapes . . . and suggest putting the nutplates on
the floor out (in) a little to accommodate for this?! I'm about to this
point but haven't wrestled with it yet.
Regards,
Bob Christensen
----- Original Message -----
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 flap motor rubs
>
> I am installing my flap motor,
> on my RV-8 quick build,
> and have a problem with the flap motor
> rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover.
> I may need another 1/4" clearance.
> I have not yet installed the wings
> and flaps.
> Have others had this problem?
> And if so how did they fix it?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)allstream.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing |
Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left elevator?
The drawings leave this unspecified.
I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the control
horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage.
What have others done?
George Kilishek
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing |
I haven't ran mine yet, but plan to put them through grommets in the holes
in the elevator spar and aft stab spar that were intended for the mechanical
trim.
Doug Ripley
N821DT
painting....may fly in June!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing
>
> Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left
elevator?
> The drawings leave this unspecified.
>
> I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the
control
> horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage.
>
> What have others done?
>
> George Kilishek
>
> Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
> Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing |
I just ran mine through the holes that are ther for the manual trim cable,
then alont the longeron all the way to the panel. Works great wit 10 hours
on the airplane. Do not label trim indicator until you are sure which way
thw wires are hooked up .
Al Grajek
RV8A
Finally flying!
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing
>Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:01:01 -0500
>
>
>Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left
>elevator?
> The drawings leave this unspecified.
>
>I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the
>control
>horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage.
>
>What have others done?
>
>George Kilishek
>
>Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
>Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/24/04 |
Thanks guys. Problem solved.
George
>
>I haven't ran mine yet, but plan to put them through grommets in the holes
>in the elevator spar and aft stab spar that were intended for the
>mechanical
>trim.
>Doug Ripley
>N821DT
>painting....may fly in June!!
>
>
>I just ran mine through the holes that are ther for the manual trim cable,
>then alont the longeron all the way to the panel. Works great wit 10 hours
>on the airplane. Do not label trim indicator until you are sure which way
>thw wires are hooked up .
>Al Grajek
>RV8A
>Finally flying!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Matronics & Yahoo RV-8 lists |
As those of you who subscribe to the Yahoo RV-8 list know, they have been
experiencing some problems. This morning I received an invitation to
re-subscribe to a new Yahoo RV-8 list from Mike Stewart and Doug Reeves. I
sent Mike the following:
As you may or may not know, the Yahoo RV-8 list was started maybe five or
six years ago by Moe Calitrono when Matt's Matronics RV list was not
differentiated by type aircraft. Moe thought we needed a list that was RV-8
specific. Matt liked the idea, so he started an RV-8 list on Matronics.
Moe's list continued until he decided to quit building his RV-8 and he
passed it on to someone else to manage. It became more popular than the
Matronics list, but many of us felt we had to subscribe to both to keep up
with all the good information. Some people thankfully post messages to both
RV-8 lists and to the RV list, so sometimes I get three copies of the same
message. I have not seen any compelling reason to have two RV-8 lists and
would rather there just be one, and Matt does a fine job of administering
his lists.
If the Yahoo list continues, I would like to subscribe, but frankly I would
rather see the members encouraged to join Matt's RV-8 list instead.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Liz Taylor <n7011n(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer |
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past
the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery
Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing
shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along
with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools.
Several items were added after the original purchase
and are not reflected in the original invoice. These
items are listed below:
-Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque
Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the
cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate
enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the
head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs,
I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199
online.
-Adjustable Rivet Cutter
-Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great
addition since you'll frequently change the yokes)
-2nd cleco wrench
-Boelube-tube
These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over
the invoice price shown below of $2,422.
2 items that show up on the original invoice are not
included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B
cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up
1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck
apiece depending on the bit.
All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used
them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits
and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great
quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with
adjustable set holder are not included in the basic
Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to
compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also
upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle
finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink
cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that
I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it
looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased
these. To replace everything today would likely top
$3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be
willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items
I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will
need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also
require payment via cashier's check made out to my
name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at
312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard(at)taylorbruce.com.
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jackie Gilbert" <jackie293(at)msn.com> |
some one wants to sell seat for a rv8 please send photo, tell me what kind
of foam, where the seats were made. and the price.
jackie293 @msn.com
jackie gilbert
monroe, la.
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE!
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props... |
From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv4-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi guys & Gals,
I just received my new Prop from "CloudCars". It looks BEAUTIFUL. This
prop reminds me of the high quality & low price we use to get from Pacesetter
Props. Pacesetter is no longer in business but man did I love my old Pacesetter
prop. The guy who made my new prop is Jay Anderson. He is very knowledgeable
and willing to work with you to get a custom Prop that you will love.
His prices are extremely fair (I got mine for about $500.oo including s your
price may vary depending on what you want) and the delivery time was only about
6 weeks. For a custom made, quality Prop you can't beat that price with a
stick. You can contact Jay at cloudcars99(at)yahoo.com or (325) 356-2810. His
motto/slogan is "Quality Wood Propellers at Reasonable Prices". I'm a satisfied
customer.
**note: I get no discount, nor do I have any financial interest in this
business.** We experimental builders & flyers should support small businesses
that provide quality products & service at reasonable prices. That's why
I'm sharing this hot tip with all the RV folks. If you call him, tell 'em Chuck
says "Hi".
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: CloudCars prop |
From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Chris,
I agree whole heartedly about props being a critical component on a aircraft.
I've been flyin' since 1976 (all sorts of aircraft) and I've been fortunate
enough not to have ever had a prop related in-flight problem (though I have
experienced "the joy" of several engine out/dead stick landings, but like
any thrilling story, those take awhile to tell).
What I have learned is that every business starts out as a small "garage
business", as you referred to them. Even IBM started in a garage in Menlo Park,
Ca. The small businesses are the real innovators, they are the ones who
bring the best quality and ideas forward at a "competitive" price; because they
have to just to survive. The BIG guys usually just kick back and rely on their
name. And... you PAY alot of extra $$$ for their name too. I am not knocking
the quality of Sensenich or other big names. But I know that there are
high quality, reasonably priced competitors that I would rather support. Heck,
if I want a Sensenich label on my prop, Sensenich sells their name stickers
in various catalogues too.
When I ordered my prop from Jay at CloudCars, I knew exactly what I wanted.
However Jay also gave me valuable, knowledgeable advice. Now that I have
my prop, Jay is insisting that I hook it up and try it/fly it to see if it performs
as I expected it to. Then I send it back for final backing and edge protection,
and if I need any pitch or other adjustments he'll do that too. Now
I will give updates to the RV-list(s) as I go, but it sure is re-assuring that
CloudCars is that interested in making certain I am (as Jay has said) "Completely
Satisfied" with my new prop.
PaceSetter was not a large company, and unfortunately they are no longer
in the business (though I know the guy still makes props on the side). But
PaceSetter's quality, reliability and name carried a lot of respect from everyone
that I've ever spoken with who has flown on their props. It is very unfortunate
that it took several years for their name and word of their quality to
spread; I think that was a major part of their downfall. I believe CloudCars
is on par with the quality and hence the reliability, of PaceSetter and the
BIG named manufactures in the production of their props. I hazard to guess
that if/when CloudCars gets well known, their prices will certainly rise as the
demand rises for their skilled craftsmanship. But the choice is always up
to the consumer. By the way, ask Jay if he builds three (3) bladed props, I just
got an inquiry about that. Take care, and take to the Air,
Chuck
p.s. Chris I hope you don't mind, I'm gonna CC a copy to the RV-list(s) because
I think this is a valid discussion topic for experimental builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Boultinghouse [mailto:sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: CloudCars prop
Hi Chuck,
I saw your post on the RV list about the prop you got
from Jay at CloudCars. I dropped him a note about a
prop for my Jabiru 3300/Sonex combo, and received a
prompt reply (and a picture). His prices are
reasonable too (about $250 less than a comparable
Sensenich wood prop). My problem is that my wife is
uncomfortable with the idea of me buying something as
critical as a prop from a "garage business". I was
hoping you'd be able to offer some insight into the
craftmanship and perceived design of the prop. Have
you flown yours yet?
I'm not averted to spending the money for a Sensenich
(or Prince) but I do like to save a buck and help the
little guy as long as I'm not risking my butt to do
so!
Thanks for your thoughts.
=====
Best Regards,
Chris Boultinghouse
Austin, TX
Sonex N260SX (reserved)
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Ken Balch's N118KB in July Kitplanes Magazine |
Hello!
Just a quick note to let you know that Ken Balch's stunning flag-design RV-8 (which
is now for sale) is featured in the July issue of Kitplanes on page 39 (Exteriors
and Interiors)...
Ken, thank you for sharing the story of your plane with me ... I'm sorry I wasn't
able to meet you in person at LAL this year.
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | elevator leading edge |
I'm just about to roll the leading edge of my elevators and upon checking the plans
the way I look at it. The top half of the elevator should be slightly longer
and be on the outside when riveted, so that the rivet is just a bit lower
than half way around the leading edge.
But on both of my elevators the longer edge is on the lower half. Have I got a
problem or am I just looking at the plans wrong?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | EIS plus what engine instrumentation? |
-8, 8A Drivers,
I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand Rapids
EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus instrument
combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks.
Jack Blomgren
-8 80%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | screwing into platenuts |
I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: screwing into platenuts |
Mine was the same way. I ran a tap through them.
Doug
N821DT
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04 |
Greg:
I've had problems with being unable to start a thread into a plate nut and
have used a tap to get it started.
Be careful, though! Plate nut threads are rolled, not cut (for good reason)
so be very gentle with the tap...do no more than you have to.
George
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts
>
>
> >
> > I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
>platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
>Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
>onto them.
> >
> > Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
>platenuts?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/13/04 |
Greg,
Here is what I did... I used Boe Lube and ran a stainless steel screw
through the platenut first.
Dick White
RV-8 N94DW
Old Crow flying
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV8-List Digest Server" <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/13/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-06-13.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-06-13.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 06/13/04: 3
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 02:34 AM - elevator leading edge (greg)
> 2. 02:44 PM - EIS plus what engine instrumentation? (Jack Blomgren)
> 3. 04:30 PM - screwing into platenuts (greg)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: elevator leading edge
>
>
> I'm just about to roll the leading edge of my elevators and upon checking
the plans
> the way I look at it. The top half of the elevator should be slightly
longer
> and be on the outside when riveted, so that the rivet is just a bit lower
> than half way around the leading edge.
>
> But on both of my elevators the longer edge is on the lower half. Have I
got a
> problem or am I just looking at the plans wrong?
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: EIS plus what engine instrumentation?
>
>
> -8, 8A Drivers,
> I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand
Rapids
> EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus
instrument
> combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks.
> Jack Blomgren
> -8 80%
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts
>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts
> and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm
worried
> about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04 |
Hi,
Just use some Boelube on the screws and they will go right in. It is
really amazing stuff.
John Porter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04 |
Where do you get that stuff?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04
>
> Hi,
> Just use some Boelube on the screws and they will go right in. It is
> really amazing stuff.
>
> John Porter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04 |
Regarding tight nutplates and lubricating agents...
The Yard (www.yardstore.com) has Boelube paste in 1-lb jars for about $14.
they are also a great source for new, used and surplus tools. Cleveland
Aircraft Tools sells Boelube in a solid stick (2 oz?) for about $3. I have
used both, and MUCH prefer the paste. The stick is very crumbly and doesn't
seem to do much good on drill bits and such, though I have used it
successfully as a rub-it-on-and-forget-it release agent for epoxy or
fiberglass work.
I also use Loctite C5-A anti-seize with good results. (It was the first
product I found in a stick, rather than a brush-top jar of goop.)
An alternative is T-9, in aerosol or non-aerosol spray or by the gallon.
T-9 works wonders to keep the rust off of my table saw, drill press, hand
tools, etc. Spray it on and wipe off the excess, or leave it to dry on it's
own for a thicker film of protection and lubrication. It will also help
your drill bits and taps shed chips. Find T-9 locally in stores such as
Woodcraft or hardware stores.
> Where do you get that stuff?
>> Just use some Boelube...
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (reserved)
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Fuel Line Routing |
Hello all,
I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector
servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on
the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and
up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle
includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel
line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the
way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between
two of the cylinders.
Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this
won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose.
Thanks in advance.
Doug Ripley
N821DT
flying in 3 weeks!(?)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Routing |
Doug,
My engine was set up with that routing when I purchased it, and I don't
think it should be a problem, because of the relatively cooler
temperatures at the base of the cylinders. I would certainly recommend
the use of fire sleeve on the line though for the insulation value. On
the other hand, I haven't flown yet so this is all conjecture on my
part.
Joel Harding
On Jun 18, 2004, at 6:11 AM, Doug Ripley wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the
> injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was
> originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and
> above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The
> hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that
> attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want
> to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to
> the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between
> two of the cylinders.
>
> Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders?
> If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Doug Ripley
> N821DT
> flying in 3 weeks!(?)
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Tanner" <tannerav8(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Routing |
Doug,
I have seen many certified installations with the servo-flow-divider fuel
line routed through the engine baffling, between the cylinders. Pitts S1S,
S1T, Piper Arrow, etc. This isn't a problem. Just make sure to use
fire-sleeve.
Scott Tanner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel Line Routing
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the
injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally
routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air
tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for
the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it
interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but
it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's
perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders.
>
> Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If
this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Doug Ripley
> N821DT
> flying in 3 weeks!(?)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
Does anyone have info on a link to a "RV-8 Operators Manual" I can use as a crib
???
Larry N939LT, (for Randy's, RV-8 in paint shop, N882PD)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jonweisw <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Routing |
Doug-
I also have an M1B for my -8 and have fretted with that line as well.
For me, the line, as it comes from the factory, runs up the right side
of the engine (looking from the cabin forward). Mine came with the hose
in place with the support and intercylinder baffling already installed
around the line. The problem I had was that the fitting that the factory
provides is straight and the space between the top of the injector servo
and the bottom of the crank case was too small to allow for a safe curve
of the hosing. I had to be a little creative with a 90 deg AN fitting to
get what I hope is a safe setup.
I'm not sure why you want to route the line up the other side. There is
so much crucial hardware there that I would worry about intereference.
Im also not sure why this wasnt done for you already...I have a friend
who is a couple months behind me on his -7A and got his M1B shortly
after I got mine and his had this hose routing done already also (of
course, the fitting on his was already a 90deg fitting...). I have been
generally happy with Lycoming so far (I am aware of the general
criticism of them on this list and elsewhere), but there does seem to be
some variation in how the same engines are shipped. You might call them
and have them send you the hardware to make this installation correct,
so that you dont have to spend the $$. I am happy to snap some pictures
of this for you if it would help.
I, too, am about 3-4weeks away from the big day. Just got back from
Portland for a few days with Mike Seager....well worth it.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
4 weeks?
Doug Ripley wrote:
>
>Hello all,
>
>I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector
servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on
the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and
up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle
includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel
line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all
the way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between
two of the cylinders.
>
>Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this
won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>Doug Ripley
>N821DT
>flying in 3 weeks!(?)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | 6 " tires anyone? |
I am convinced I will have to put 6 " tires on my 8. Has anyone done this easily?
Since it will fly mostly in the Yukon where there is only one paved runway it will
be flying into poorly maintained gravel and dirt most of the time. Some of
these Yukon gofers have a propensity for open clearings, runways are especially
preferred, and 1/2 of them make craters that a small tire would fit into nicely.
Short of fitting belt fed .22 cal wing guns and doing pre-touch down straffing
runs this is the next best safety measure.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Routing |
Thanks....got many replies back....Mattituck said it was fine to run it
between the cylinders. My hose worked out to be long enough that running it
that way did not require a 90 degree fitting on the spider.
Thanks for your help....looks like we'll be flying around the same time!
----- Original Message -----
From: "jonweisw" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Fuel Line Routing
>
> Doug-
> I also have an M1B for my -8 and have fretted with that line as well.
> For me, the line, as it comes from the factory, runs up the right side
> of the engine (looking from the cabin forward). Mine came with the hose
> in place with the support and intercylinder baffling already installed
> around the line. The problem I had was that the fitting that the factory
> provides is straight and the space between the top of the injector servo
> and the bottom of the crank case was too small to allow for a safe curve
> of the hosing. I had to be a little creative with a 90 deg AN fitting to
> get what I hope is a safe setup.
>
> I'm not sure why you want to route the line up the other side. There is
> so much crucial hardware there that I would worry about intereference.
> Im also not sure why this wasnt done for you already...I have a friend
> who is a couple months behind me on his -7A and got his M1B shortly
> after I got mine and his had this hose routing done already also (of
> course, the fitting on his was already a 90deg fitting...). I have been
> generally happy with Lycoming so far (I am aware of the general
> criticism of them on this list and elsewhere), but there does seem to be
> some variation in how the same engines are shipped. You might call them
> and have them send you the hardware to make this installation correct,
> so that you dont have to spend the $$. I am happy to snap some pictures
> of this for you if it would help.
>
> I, too, am about 3-4weeks away from the big day. Just got back from
> Portland for a few days with Mike Seager....well worth it.
>
> Jon Weiswasser
> N898JW
> 4 weeks?
>
> Doug Ripley wrote:
>
> >
> >Hello all,
> >
> >I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the
injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally
routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air
tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for
the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it
interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but
it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's
perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders.
> >
> >Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If
this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >Doug Ripley
> >N821DT
> >flying in 3 weeks!(?)
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Hello ...where did everybody go? |
2.5 SUB_HELLO Subject starts with "Hello"
I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't offend.
Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is
out flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Hello ...where did everybody go? |
Jacob,
I recall some discussion on the general RV list about six inch tires. The
builders were in England where much of the flying was from turf. Maybe you
can mine the archives for more information.
Steve
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace
Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go?
-->
I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't
offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe
everybody is out flying!
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?) |
Hi Jacob,
I didn't necessarily want to intervene since I don't actually have an RV8,
but rather a couple of RV6's. Anyway, I do know of several RV8's that have
sucessfully installed 6" tires on them.
There are 3 different ways to approach it.
#1) Buy the bigger 1 1/2" axle and bolt it on in place of the smaller one
supplied by Van's. This is the easiest route, and I think if you contact
Grove (landing gear folks), they can probably set you up. Then you can
install standard 6.00x6's on it.
#2) Built a bushing that buids up the axle from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2", then
install the 6.00 wheels. If the wheels are not too wide, I've seen this
done.
#3) Find some funky sized tire that is a 5" tire, but much larger in size.
Surprisingly, this has also been done, but don't know too much about it.
With the flat landing gear, my choice would be to find a larger axle, bolt
it on, buy larger wheels/brakes and go! Not the cheapest route, but most
likely the easiest. And, keep in mind this is only a possibility on the RV8
with the flat gear, can't change the axle sizes on the spring rod gears of
the other RV's.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace
Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go?
I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't
offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe
everybody is out flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/22/04 |
Just to reasure you that you've been heard. I read your question, but don't
have any useful experience to share with you. N888GK has standard wheels
and tires, which work fine on pavement and reasonably well maintained grass
runways.
My GUESS is that larger wheels and tires would work, since the RV8 has more
than enough rudder and fin area, but it's only a guess.
George
>>
> 1. 10:22 PM - Hello ...where did everybody go? (Jacob & Grace)
>
>
>________________________________ Message 1
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go?
> ---- ----------------------
>-------------------------------------------
> 2.5 SUB_HELLO Subject starts with "Hello"
>
>
>I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't
>offend.
>Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is
>out flying!
>
>
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE!
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?) |
Excelent thanks. I call Grove first. If that doesn't work I'll try bigger
5 ", and modify last. Appreciate it!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?)
>
> Hi Jacob,
>
> I didn't necessarily want to intervene since I don't actually have an RV8,
> but rather a couple of RV6's. Anyway, I do know of several RV8's that
have
> sucessfully installed 6" tires on them.
>
> There are 3 different ways to approach it.
>
> #1) Buy the bigger 1 1/2" axle and bolt it on in place of the smaller one
> supplied by Van's. This is the easiest route, and I think if you contact
> Grove (landing gear folks), they can probably set you up. Then you can
> install standard 6.00x6's on it.
>
> #2) Built a bushing that buids up the axle from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2", then
> install the 6.00 wheels. If the wheels are not too wide, I've seen this
> done.
>
> #3) Find some funky sized tire that is a 5" tire, but much larger in size.
> Surprisingly, this has also been done, but don't know too much about it.
>
> With the flat landing gear, my choice would be to find a larger axle, bolt
> it on, buy larger wheels/brakes and go! Not the cheapest route, but most
> likely the easiest. And, keep in mind this is only a possibility on the
RV8
> with the flat gear, can't change the axle sizes on the spring rod gears of
> the other RV's.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go?
>
>
>
> I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't
> offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe
> everybody is out flying!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
hi all,
I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
What have you all done?
Jim Bean
Mounting empinage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Jacking RV-8 |
> hi all,
> I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
> There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
> I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
> What have you all done?
> Jim Bean
Here's one idea:
http://bobby.hargrave.home.att.net/pages/Jack.html
I used a bottle jack suitably raised to do the same thing, but making a
sturdy stand as shown is the better way to go.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> |
Subject: | Re: Jacking RV-8 |
Jim:
What I have done is put a bolt in the tie down hole and use an aircraft jack
to lift at that point. It seems to work fine.
Jimmy
8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8
>
> hi all,
> I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
> There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
> I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
> What have you all done?
> Jim Bean
> Mounting empinage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Jacking RV-8 |
Jim,
One easy way to jack your RV 8 is to use a muffler clamp placed around the
gear leg. Tighten the muffler clamp and use a floor jack or a small bottle
jack and it works just fine.
Tom Scherder RV 8 N38NE ready to fly--waiting on the FAA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8
>
> hi all,
> I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
> There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
> I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
> What have you all done?
> Jim Bean
> Mounting empinage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Jacking RV=8 |
Jim:
I used a standard aircraft jack (intended for a Bonanza) on the wing
tie-down. It has a concave top surface which the tie down ring fits nicely
into. Its been safe and secure.
George
>
>From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
>Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8
>
>
>hi all,
>I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
>There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
>I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
>What have you all done?
>Jim Bean
>Mounting empinage
>
>
From will you? to I do, MSN Life Events is your resource for Getting
Married. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Jacking RV=8 |
Jim
The wing jack works really well but if you jack both wings at the same time
be careful that the aircraft doesn't tip forward onto the prop. It's not
pretty. The jacks are available in trade a plane for about $130 apiece, you
really only need one.
Paul
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: Jacking RV=8
>Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:34:09 -0500
>
>
>Jim:
>
>I used a standard aircraft jack (intended for a Bonanza) on the wing
>tie-down. It has a concave top surface which the tie down ring fits nicely
>into. Its been safe and secure.
>
>George
>
>
> >
> >From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
> >Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8
> >
> >
> >hi all,
> >I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
> >There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
> >I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
> >What have you all done?
> >Jim Bean
> >Mounting empinage
> >
> >
>
>From will you? to I do, MSN Life Events is your resource for Getting
>Married. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
1.0 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
I built a wooden inverted pyramid shaped device that sits under the tie down
location. I use a bolt threaded into the tie down, through the wood, to
keep it from moving. Use a floor jack under the apex of the wooden device
to lift. Cumbersome, but I'm not comfortable with lifting at the tie down
pt alone. Not only that, but my wooden thing cost less to build than an
aircraft jack.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>hi all,
>I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8.
>There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack.
>I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing?
>What have you all done?
>Jim Bean
>Mounting empinage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
(Receipt Notification Requested)
I have an RV-8A, but I think this would work on a tail dragger. I bought an
ATV lift on sale at Sears (75). Used some 4 X 4s to build up a carriage to
sit on the lift legs and topped it with a 6 X 6 covered with a clean cotton
towel. I place the cotton covered 6 X 6 directly under the center belly where
the wing spar runs through and slowly lift the plane.
The capacity of the ATV lift is 1500 lbs. so full fuel is still well under
that. You do, however, have to be careful about the side to side balance
when it's up on the lift, but you usually only need the mains up a half inch
or so. I place a padded sawhorse under the tail and if need be, a wood block
under the nosewheel.
I'm too cheap to spend 260.00 on two wing jacks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Bombard <jtb1(at)prodigy.net> |
I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like to swap
for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on the RV-8
but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is interested in making
a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net or give me a call at
(803) 663-6415.
Jack
RV-8A Fuselage
Trenton, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Jack,
You will probably get several offers, but I have my old-style wing tips
hanging on the wall in my living room since I got them probably four or five
years ago. I bought a set of wingtip tanks that are also the old style and
will be using them instead of the regular old style. I don't know what they
are worth or what the shipping would be, but I haven't worried much about
selling them because they look kind of nice hanging high up on the two-story
wall. Visitors think they are sculpture, but they usually ask about the
completed tail section hanging from the living room ceiling. If you don't
find any closer that someone wants to get rid off, send me a note. I don't
need the ones you have.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Bombard
Subject: RV8-List: Wing Tips
I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like to
swap for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on
the RV-8 but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is
interested in making a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net
or give me a call at (803) 663-6415.
Jack
RV-8A Fuselage
Trenton, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jtb1" <jtb1(at)prodigy.net> |
Thanks for the offer Terry but I think I have found a pair much closer to
home which will reduce shipping costs by a whole bunch.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Tips
|
| Jack,
|
| You will probably get several offers, but I have my old-style wing tips
| hanging on the wall in my living room since I got them probably four or
five
| years ago. I bought a set of wingtip tanks that are also the old style
and
| will be using them instead of the regular old style. I don't know what
they
| are worth or what the shipping would be, but I haven't worried much about
| selling them because they look kind of nice hanging high up on the
two-story
| wall. Visitors think they are sculpture, but they usually ask about the
| completed tail section hanging from the living room ceiling. If you don't
| find any closer that someone wants to get rid off, send me a note. I don't
| need the ones you have.
|
| Terry
| RV-8A #80729
| Seattle
|
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
| [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Bombard
| To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: RV8-List: Wing Tips
|
|
| I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like
to
| swap for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on
| the RV-8 but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is
| interested in making a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net
| or give me a call at (803) 663-6415.
|
| Jack
| RV-8A Fuselage
| Trenton, SC
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Fastback is Flying |
RV-list,
One more -8 is Flying,
After close to six years of building...and flying two other
distractions, I finally got a highly modified RV8 Fastback in the air
Tuesday night. No issues, no problems and performance is outstanding.
Plane has an IO-360A1B 200+ hp with a Hartzell counterweighted CS
aerobatic prop, 4 into 1 exhaust, Sky Dynamics cold air intake and
sump system, inverted oil, a completely modified upper fuselage and
canopy, plus Grove Aluminum gear.
I put a quick picture in the RV8 Yahoo site picture folder.
Tom Clark
525TC RV8 Fastback
Tom Clark
Design & Mechanical Systems Manager
UTC Fuel Cells, 195 Gov. Hwy
South Windsor, CT
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
860-727-7666 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV8 Fastback is Flying |
From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
Tom,
Please send some pics to the list; for those of us who don't "Yahooo".
Thanks,
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clark, Thomas
IFC
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Fastback is Flying
RV-list,
One more -8 is Flying,
After close to six years of building...and flying two other
distractions, I finally got a highly modified RV8 Fastback in the air
Tuesday night. No issues, no problems and performance is outstanding.
Plane has an IO-360A1B 200+ hp with a Hartzell counterweighted CS
aerobatic prop, 4 into 1 exhaust, Sky Dynamics cold air intake and
sump system, inverted oil, a completely modified upper fuselage and
canopy, plus Grove Aluminum gear.
I put a quick picture in the RV8 Yahoo site picture folder.
Tom Clark
525TC RV8 Fastback
Tom Clark
Design & Mechanical Systems Manager
UTC Fuel Cells, 195 Gov. Hwy
South Windsor, CT
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
860-727-7666 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions
it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have
used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like
to find out what others have used?
Wayne Couture
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Skyloc fastners |
> I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the
> instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips
> although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064
> seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used?
If I were to do it over, I'd go with .050 as a good compromise.
http://home.comcast.net/~jwdweb2/Cowl1/cowl1.html
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Skyloc fastners |
Wayne, I used .050 and it worked fine. They told me not to use less than
that, and I now understand why. The rivet holes for the recepticals are
1/8", so the .050 gives plenty of thickness for counter-sinking.
They supply some glass with the kit that makes a build-up of approximately
3/16", to be used around the edges of the cowl for stiffening so it won't
buldge out during flight. I didn't put it on the edge that attaches to the
firewall, I added a couple layers of glass cloth there, but I did use it on
the sides. You have to put it on the top and the bottom half so the cowl
will be the same thickness. (wish I had some pictures) This stuff has ribs
in it, kinda like honeycomb....it's real light. I filled the holes between
the ribs with microballoons to prevent crushing it when riveting on the
aluminum strip.
I cut the strips they provided in half, leaving approximately 2" wide
pieces, then glassed it to the cowl sides, butted up against the thicker
honeycomb material in the cowl. Then filled the slight gap between the
honeycomb in the cowl and the reinforcement strip with microbaloons. This
way the inside of the cowl is smooth for painting, helps prevent oil from
getting into corners.
Good luck! Those things are awesome!!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Skyloc fastners
<commando@cox-internet.com>
>
> I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the
instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although
others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick
to me. I'd like to find out what others have used?
>
> Wayne Couture
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
Subject: | Re: Skyloc fastners |
Wayne,
I used .063 2024T3 for the support strips. Although it may seem heavy,
after cutting them to size and taking notches out between each fastener they
actually were not hard to work with. I'm sure .050 would be more than
adequate but I had .063 in my shop so I used it. A little extra strength in
this area probably wouldn't hurt anyway. It worked out to (3) pieces. One
support strip across the top and one on each side wrapping around the bottom
to the cooling ramp.
Scott Clarkson
N360SC reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Skyloc fastners
<commando@cox-internet.com>
>
> I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the
instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although
others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick
to me. I'd like to find out what others have used?
>
> Wayne Couture
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gull9914(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8 Fastback is flying |
I'm a RV-8 builder wannabe trying to learn. What is a fastback. I made a
diligent search on Yahoo & couldn't find the RV8 site mentioned. The
actualaddress would be appreciated
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Justin Hagemeier <jhagem(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Empennage For Sale |
Hello All,
I have an RV8 Empennage for sale. Completely
finished complete with Photos and logs. This will
save you 200 hrs. of labor for those eager to complete
your project. I am asking $1600 shipping to anywhere
in the US included. Or make me an offer. I am
selling it because my life has yet again changed, and
I need the cash.
Thanks,
Justin Hagemeier
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
Subject: | Deluxe Quadrant revisited |
I know this has been covered a bunch in the past but I'm not getting enough throw
on the throttle, mixture, or prop with the deluxe quadrant. There was mention
of re-drilling the mixture control arm on the servo a little closer to the
pivot point but this isn't possible on the throttle arm or the prop gov. What's
been the consensus? Re-drill the quadrant arms higher up or cut the slots
longer in the quadrant itself? Save me from the archives!
Scott Clarkson
N360SC reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean C. Merchant" <merchant.2(at)osu.edu> |
Subject: | RV-8, ELT Antenna Location |
Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't buried
after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the
foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy.
Are there any other choices?
Thanks for your comments.
Dean "working the fire wall forward"
DEAN C. MERCHANT
(614)451-6897
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location |
Surf the links at www.rv-8.com. I think Randy is the one that put his in
the empenage, under the fairing. That's where I put my antenna, and mounted
the ELT itself in the rear baggage compartment.
Doug Ripley
N821DT
flying in 2 weeks (?)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean C. Merchant" <merchant.2(at)osu.edu>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location
>
> Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't
buried
> after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the
> foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy.
> Are there any other choices?
>
> Thanks for your comments.
> Dean "working the fire wall forward"
> DEAN C. MERCHANT
> (614)451-6897
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jonweisw <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location |
I put mine under the empennage fairing. Pix included. Just tested it
today...works fine.
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
Almost there....
Dean C. Merchant wrote:
>
>Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't buried
>after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the
>foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy.
>Are there any other choices?
>
>Thanks for your comments.
>Dean "working the fire wall forward"
>DEAN C. MERCHANT
>(614)451-6897
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Chuck & Dave Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
Subject: Panel - N712CR
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/crowbotham@hotmail.com.07.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Tom Clark ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Tom Clark
Subject: New Photo RV8 Fastback
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Tom.Clark@UTCFuelCells.com.07.09.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
have a Marvel Schebler, SPA-4-5 carburetor new in box and never on an engine for
sale. When I built my Pitts I bought a new Lyc O-360-A1A and used a pressure
carburetor instead of the Marvel Schebler that came with the new engine. Asking
$900.00. 815-467-5046.
farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Axles Wheels Brakes Tires and Tubes |
I have a set of wheels, brakes tires, tubes and axles, new, uninstalled, for
sale for $ 250 less than Vans list price. Anyone interested can contact me
at ;
grizzlybear at klondiker dot com
or phone me at 867-667-6563 or 3406
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV8 Empennage Kit to sell or swap |
Hi Everyone.
I am in the process of assembling my tail section for the RV 8.
After much discussion with my Family, it has been decided that we should
build the RV 9.
The motivation behind this being that it will be a lot easier teaching family
members to fly with this model.
Right now I have the 2 spars riveted and brackets attached, parts primed.
I would love to be able to swap it for an RV 9 empennage kit,or failing that
would sell it for $1280.00 plus shipping.
You can reply by e mail to: flyinghi3(at)aol.com
or phone me at 410-3494565.
My name is Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
Subject: | Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and Mounting Brackets |
Hello Builders,
We have been off of this list for some time, but wanted to let you know we are
still making and selling parts for your aircraft. We have been in the process
of moving our operation from Colorado to Idaho for the past several months. With
luck, we should be settled into our new location in Idaho by the end of the
first week of August.
Meanwhile, our Heated Pitot Tube Mounting Bracket Kits are still very popular and
we been keeping very busy producing them. We do want to let everyone know that
we will need to increase our prices slightly, effective the 1st of August.
This increse is due to our raw material costs going up and also shipping charges
that have been going up over the past two years. We have tried to keep from
raising prices as long as we can, but now need to do so. Sorry.
GOOD NEWS is that we are getting very close to having our NEWEST Gretz Aero designed
product available! It is the GA-1000. This is a heated pitot tube that is
a totaly new design. It is completely different than any pitot before.
The Gretz Aero heated pitot tube is called the GA-1000 and will look nearly
like the PH502-12CR pitot tube except the GA-1000 will be black in color, and it
will be lighter in weight than any other heated pitot tube on the market. The
GA-1000 will be what we are calling a "smart" pitot tube. It
will give the pilot feedback as to its operation on the panel. It will also
be very energy conserative and be excellent installed in an aircraft with a
small altanator in the electrical system. The only bad part is, it is not
available yet. We plan on having it available very soon, if production does
not throw us a problem. It has taken us MUCH MUCH longer to get this project
done than we ever dreamed it would. The TARGET price on the GA-1000 is +/- $325
depending upon final production costs. This price will include shipping charges
in the US.
There are a number of builders that are purchasing our mounting bracket kit,
which was designed for the PH502-12CR pitot, (which has been available for
years), this same bracket kit will also fit the new GA-1000. Once the mounting
bracket is installed in your aircraft, the GA-1000 pitot tube can be installed
at a later date when it is available. Other pitot tubes that are now available,
will also fit into the same mounting bracket as well as the GA-1000.
We will make as big a splash as we can on our website, http://www.gretzaero.com , and this List, when the new Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated pitot tube product is available. There will be a page on the Gretz Aero website that will cover this product in great detail.
I hope this information helps you.
Your can place orders with Gretz Aero on the gretzaero.com website, print out the
printable order form on the order page of the website and mail, or call the
phone numbers below.
If you want to reply to us about this message posting, please do so directly to
my e-mail address below and not on the LIST.
Good Building to you!
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
15405 Bates Creek Rd.
Oreana, ID 83650
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
http://www.gretzaero.com
720-308-0010
208-834-2312
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? |
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles?
> From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com
>
> Just out of curiosity, does anyone share my concern about putting too
> much stress on the rollbar by pulling on it (with or without handles)?
> Perhaps the -6/7/9 series is more rigid due to the brace that goes up to
> the center of the roll bar, but on my -8A I noticed before glassing in my
> windshield that the roll bar would flex quite a bit by pushing/pulling on
> it. I remember thinking at the time that this would imply quite a bit of
> stress being transferred to the plexiglass via the screws that hold it to
> the roll bar. Sounds to me like a crack waiting to happen. But maybe
> extensive experience has proven that this is not a valid concern????
Mark,
If your rollbar installation is so flexible you would be worried about
cracking the windshield, then yours is way more flexible than it should be
or any I've seen. Keep in mind its primary purpose is a "rollbar" which
could be subjected to an 1800 # impact load and not collapse.
I did a little study at our last Leeward Air Ranch Fly-In. I watched
pilots getting in and out of RV8's and RV8A's. (We had 18 of them) Two of
them had handles installed on the rollbar and of course used them.14 out of
the remaining 16 of them put their hand on the windshield fairing at some
point in the process of getting in or out.
Certainly if you're young and agile you can do without it, but I
wouldn't even consider building an 8 without one.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
Subject: | Bolt on roll bar handles? |
Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea . .
. where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bigsky.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bolt on roll bar handles? |
try http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Mauri Morin
RV-8 wings/tanks
Polson, Mt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Bolt on roll bar handles?
>
> Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea .
.
> . where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bolt on roll bar handles? |
Bob,
I made mine out of 5/16ths 4130 Tubing. No welding involved. Theres now
a guy selling them of the same design except his are made from Aluminum
Tubing. See at http://www.aircraftextras.com/Handles1.htm
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Bolt on roll bar handles?
>
> Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea .
.
> . where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
You people would not believe the crap I'm going through to register my -8!!!!!!!!
I'm in a partnership. We mailed our registration application the first time back
in April, got it back late May with a letter, we listed the registration type
as "partnership", but for our title, called each other "co-owner". The letter
said that if it's a partnership, we must call ourselves "partners"....if we're
calling ourselves "co-owners", we must list the registration as "co-ownership".
Mailed it back out with the corrections in late May.
We received that back last Saturday (over 45 days) with another letter. "Effective
June 1, 2004, the registration applicant must print or type their name under
their signature". Our registration was stamped as received by the feds June
2nd, one day after the new rule took effect, there was no warning that this
would happen.
We're done painting, moved the entire project to the airport on Sunday for final
assembly. We will be ready for inspection in a week or two, but can't do that
until we receive our registration back from the feds!!!!!
Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed through
faster than 45+ days???
Doug Ripley / Terry Harper
RV-8 N821DT (reserved and assigned, but not registered)
Final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: registration |
In a message dated 7/19/04 8:09:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes:
> Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed
> through faster than 45+ days???
>
Federal Aviation Title Company
800-654-5694
Private company that does title work / title searchs. They can just
about walk this stuff through. The fees are really pretty cheap.
Ask for Heather .......but anyone can help you.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: registration |
AOPA title search does it if you are a member and it's costs $100, I don't
know if they will do it for non members or for how much. It took four days
to get the registration in my hands.
I have heard a ton of horror stories but in my 40- years in aviation my
experiences with the FAA have all been positive (you just gotta do it their
way)
Paul
>From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: registration
>Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 08:32:08 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 7/19/04 8:09:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes:
>
>
> > Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed
> > through faster than 45+ days???
> >
>
>Federal Aviation Title Company
>
>800-654-5694
>
>Private company that does title work / title searchs. They can just
>about walk this stuff through. The fees are really pretty cheap.
>Ask for Heather .......but anyone can help you.
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | OSHKOSH RV-8/-8A Builders' Meetings |
Well, Oshkosh is less than a week away ... guess it's time to plan some
builders' meetings, huh?
Unless someone grabs it by the horns, here's the plan ...
Usual location, The Theater in the Woods, under the shadiest tree.
THURSDAY, July 29, 9 AM
SATURDAY, July 31, 9 AM (my birthday, incidentally ... if you have an
extra IO-360 you wanna present, please advise me so I can make room in
my truck for the return trip!)
All RV-8/-8A builders welcome, including those who wannabe RV-8/-8A
builders (heck, anyone who loves RVs can come -- just bring DOUGHNUTS!!)
As usual, I'll have nametags and Sharpies. Bring your own coffee. Bob
Dimeo will bring doughnuts [yeah, right! :-)]
Any problems with those times, feel free to speak up. Otherwise, I'll
see all of you on Thursday and Saturday mornings!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: registration |
From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
The FAA is a monopoly. It's not surprising that we are being very poorly
served by them. The pilots with 'issues' with their medicals are worst
off.
I have found one has to expect incompetence at every step, and do their
jobs for them in advance. Once the inspection is done read over the
operating limitations very carefully--it took the feds three times to
get mine right. Critical areas they are likely to screw up are allowed
aerobatics maneuvers, IFR, and flight over densely populated
areas/airways.
The good news for us is that once you complete your fly-off, and the op
limitations are correct, at least with regard to the aircraft, we are
free from federal meddling forever!
370 hrs on my RV8--what a machine!
On Mon, 2004-07-19 at 06:04, Doug Ripley wrote:
>
> You people would not believe the crap I'm going through to register my -8!!!!!!!!
>
> I'm in a partnership. We mailed our registration application the first time
back in April, got it back late May with a letter, we listed the registration
type as "partnership", but for our title, called each other "co-owner". The letter
said that if it's a partnership, we must call ourselves "partners"....if
we're calling ourselves "co-owners", we must list the registration as "co-ownership".
Mailed it back out with the corrections in late May.
>
> We received that back last Saturday (over 45 days) with another letter. "Effective
June 1, 2004, the registration applicant must print or type their name
under their signature". Our registration was stamped as received by the feds
June 2nd, one day after the new rule took effect, there was no warning that this
would happen.
>
> We're done painting, moved the entire project to the airport on Sunday for final
assembly. We will be ready for inspection in a week or two, but can't do
that until we receive our registration back from the feds!!!!!
>
> Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed through
faster than 45+ days???
>
> Doug Ripley / Terry Harper
> RV-8 N821DT (reserved and assigned, but not registered)
> Final assembly
>
>
>
>
--
Greg V. Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: | Oshkosh Builders' Meetings |
OK, gang, I've got "Lurch", the Urban Assault Vehicle, all loaded for
bear and headed up the road for Oshkosh. I should be camped somewhere
on or near 38th Street in Camp Scholler for anyone interested in
stopping by for a free beer or just to harass me for not finishing my
plane.
I'll have a big yellow sign with "N8RV" on it, so you can't miss it.
However, most days I'll be on the flight line like everybody else and at
nights I hold court at Friar Tuck's. If you hook up with me there, YOU
get to buy the beer!
That said, here's the meeting schedule for anyone interested. I know
there are some potential conflicts, but there always are. That's why we
have two meetings...
THURSDAY, July 29th, 9:00 am
SATURDAY, July 31st, 9:00 am
Theater in the Woods, look for people standing around, telling lies and
waiting patiently for Bob Dimeo to bring doughnuts. :-)
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
Subject: | Aluminum Vents Sale |
I am overstocked with Black Anodized Aluminum Vents, so for the month of
August, I will offer these at $199.00 with free shipping. Regular Price
is $235.00 with a $10.00 shipping charge.
These vents are the same size as Van's plastic vents including the
mounting holes. Our black anodized vents are unique in that we made the
eyeball and mechanism of out aluminum, but the flanges are plastic so
that the corners can be rounded off, just like Van's, and not expose the
clear aluminum.
You can see the vents here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents_files/IM001220.JPG
You can order the vents here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents.htm
This special is only available during this month, or until I run out of
vents.
Regards,
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
, ,
Subject: | Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
List members,
I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding
aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and
this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the
group.
I typically leave my business away from the list, but I thought some
should benefit from my error.
Again, my apologies.
Regards,
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | "Advertising" on the Lists... |
>I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding
>aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and
>this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the
>group.
>
>Fabian
Listers,
I encourage small business owners such as Fabian to promote their products
on the Lists. I do ask, however, that the flavor of the messages not be in
the traditional form of spam messages, but more in the context of a
personal message. Obviously, moderation is in order as well. The Lists
are a forum for all types of dialog that involve the particular List in
question. If all of the Listers on a given List were in one big room
meeting and communicating in the manner that we do on the Lists, then
people such as Fabian and myself, for that matter, would obviously be
promoting our products to anyone that would listen. In fact, we would
likely be invited to give a presentation on it to the group. The List
isn't about commercialism, but it is about sharing knowledge. This extends
to everyone, including those that provide products to the community.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Scott....You should be ashamed of yourself...posting stuff with a Christian flavor....Don't
you know this is American!!..Don't you know that there is no room
for Christians in America....For Shame...Sir.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, , ,
,
Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
Thank you everyone for your kind words.
The list and yahoo group exists for one reason and one reason only... to
share information about building airplanes. Being a builder myself, I
am sensitive to that. Heck, I am the first one to admit that if I had
to open my e-mail just to sort out what is building related and what is
not, I would unsubscribe immediately. Look at the Sport Aviation
magazine these days. Can anyone guess what the building articles vs
advertisement ratio is? I bet you it is 2 to 1 in favor of advertising.
As such, after receiving an e-mail message directly from an upset list
member, I thought the least I could do was to apologize. I will confess
that I was bothered by the excessive number of four letter words used in
his e-mail, not to mention the detailed instructions as to what to do
with my vents, which involved using parts of my body that never intended
to suffer that much.
I try very hard not to post silly questions to the list, or answer other
member's questions, just so that I can close the e-mail with my company
name below it. Nor do I regularly advertise that I have something in
stock on sale just to increase sales for that month. I had hope that
before anyone complained about me, he or she would realize that the
person who posted the message doesn't do it on a regular basis. I guess
that doesn't always work with hotheads.
I'll make this e-mail short and sweet and say that, in the future, I
will let my website, and previously satisfied customers, do the
advertisement for me.
Hope to meet you all in the near future.
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Gents...I have an unusual request. Does anyone out there have an Adaptec Easy
CD Creator 4? I am trying to upgrade to vs 6 and I have to uninstall vs 4 but
I have lost the disc and the uninstall file is corrupted. If anyone has one
would you be kind enough to let me use it to reinstall so I can uninstall. Sound
dumb I know. Also, I can't go online with this puter. Help Help?? Thanks.
Rod Daulton, Minooka, IL 815-467-5046
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net> |
Please call or email... ph 405-206-6768 email abfbrinlee(at)att.net
Kit for rv 8 wanted... will be in colorado springs area on vacation over weekend...
so anything in the surrounding states would be of intrest..
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: | EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids |
Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids
Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our
particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit.
With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and
would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with
such gizmos.
Thanks.
-- Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
Subject: | EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids |
I have three of the Grand Rapids units and evaluated the Dynon. I chose
Grand Rapids for the flexibility and future enhancements as well as the size
of the box. Can't think of better folks to work with.
Regards,
David
RV6-A Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N8RV(at)gte.net
Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids
Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our
particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit.
With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and
would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with
such gizmos.
Thanks.
-- Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrstone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS |
Hi all,
Just got back from Oshkosh where I got a close look at the latest BMA EFIS
one. I was very impressed with it and was comparing it to the GRI EFIS
called the Horizon 1. I have followed BMA since they started up 4 years ago
and was not overly impressed with them enough to spend big dollars on their
product. I heard lots of promises and optimism, and unfortunately some
gripes from unhappy customers.
They (BMA) seem to have it together now, and they offer a much better
product.
I would like to hear of any dealings with these folks, good or bad, so that
I might make a more informed decision. Some say getting the EFIS one up and
running is a real bear, but BMA sez if you follow their guidelines, you
won't
have any problems.
Thanks,
Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids |
Hello Don,
I am not anywhere near flying yet,but I thought I would add my two cents...
Check out the Blue Mountain EFIS light I was planning on the Dynon but after looking
at all of the units I am sold on the blue mountain product. The price diffrence
for the BM EFIS light is only a couple hundred more and you get a built
in GPS, as well as in my opnion a much higher quality unit. The Dynon is nice
but really does not compare to the BM EFIS.
Just my opnion...
Good Luck
Kirk RV-8 wings
>
> From: N8RV(at)gte.net
> Date: 2004/08/04 Wed PM 05:52:12 EDT
> To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" ,
> "RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
> Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
>
>
> Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids
> Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our
> particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit.
>
> With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and
> would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with
> such gizmos.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Don
> N8RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N414C <N414C(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids |
No experience with Dynon or Grand Rapids. I do have about 50hrs on a Blue Mountian
EFIS one and an EFIS Lite as backup. They function well, are intuitive and
make flying the plane a breeze. It is easy to change parameters or make adjustments
as well as upload changes. The autopilot is a little too aggressive for
my taste but works well otherwise. The gyros do well in aertobatics. It was easy
to adapt to after flying steam guages for 30 years. Really have had no service
issues with it yet so cannot talk to company service but I really like the
unit. Have not even seen a Dynon or GR so cannot give a comparison.
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: groves(at)epix.net
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
Hello Don,
I am not anywhere near flying yet,but I thought I would add my two cents...
Check out the Blue Mountain EFIS light I was planning on the Dynon but after
looking at all of the units I am sold on the blue mountain product. The price
diffrence for the BM EFIS light is only a couple hundred more and you get a built
in GPS, as well as in my opnion a much higher quality unit. The Dynon is
nice but really does not compare to the BM EFIS.
Just my opnion...
Good Luck
Kirk RV-8 wings
>
> From: N8RV(at)gte.net
> Date: 2004/08/04 Wed PM 05:52:12 EDT
> To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" ,
> "RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
> Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
>
>
> Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids
> Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our
> particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit.
>
> With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and
> would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with
> such gizmos.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Don
> N8RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
Subject: | Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids |
On 08/04 8:51, David Schaefer wrote:
>
> I have three of the Grand Rapids units and evaluated the Dynon. I chose
> Grand Rapids for the flexibility and future enhancements as well as the size
> of the box. Can't think of better folks to work with.
>
> Regards,
> David
> RV6-A Finishing
I also have three of the GRT units in place with the EIS. In my
humble opinion, only the Chelton system is better, at twice the price.
GRT, interfaces to arguably the best AP (Trutrak) out there
for the money. They didn't try to design their own AP.
They also interface to the most widely used GPS/NAV/COM on the
market (Garmin GNS-430). They are still working on several interfaces,
namely the ARINC 429, but that will be out "when it's ready", not
shoved into the market space before it's tested thoroughly (hopefully
within the next month).
So if you are going to spend a whole crapload of money, you go
with the Chelton, If you want to spend half the money, you go
with the GRT.
I'm not sure the rest of the players really do have as tightly
integrated a system as GRT when you combine EFIS display (size,
sunlight readability, refresh speed), Engine Monitoring (graphical
EIS 4000), AP integration, GPS integration, NAV integration, Redundancy
(multiple AHRS, magnetometers, displays) and overall simple
design.
Also, the GRT units are light as a feather! As well as the
AHRS and magnetometer. Just look at the size of that Blue Mountain
box.
Of course, I've only said all of this to justify to myself how
much money I've spent. Your mileage will vary. I'm not trying
to start a "this is better than that war", I have builders' disease.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: | Auto pilot installation |
Hi gang:
Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation
might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other)
Auto pilot?
Thanks in advance!
Al Grajek
RV8-A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Auto pilot installation |
Al,
I just posted my servo installation in wing photos here:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst?&.dir=/Navaid+Servo&.src=gr&.view=t&.url=http%3a//us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_12798702/Navaid%2bServo/Navaid%2bServo%2bInst%2bView%2b1.jpg%3fbcpBiEwB386cqPGH&.cx=150&.cy=108&.type=u
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
;
Subject: RV8-List: Auto pilot installation
>
> Hi gang:
> Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best
installation
> might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or
other)
> Auto pilot?
> Thanks in advance!
> Al Grajek
> RV8-A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Another RV8 Flies! |
On Saturday, August 14th, N821DT flew the first time. Serial # is 81905. Construction
time was 18 months from standard kit. Total man-hours 1300 which includes
paint. Engine is Mattituck IO-360-M1B 180 hp, Hartzell constant speed.
Empty weight is 1,134#. Engine instruments are Van's steam gauges, full vacuum
system, Skyforce IIIC moving map GPS. Paint is Sherwin-Williams Acry-Glo.
The airworthiness inspection went well. It was done by Jim Paine of Hendersonville,
NC. Jim is one of the new volunteer DAR's, and is first class. He has
a Thorp T-18, and understands what we're doing and why we do it better than any
commercial DAR. It was a pleasure working with him.
First flight was from a 2500' grass strip, lots of trees around here, so the plan
was to climb at a good angle (85-90 mph indicated) with right turn after takeoff
that would put me over the first alternate ditch point, an open field.
By looking at the pictures afterwards, the climb angle was about 70 degrees, and
I was still indicating 110 mph!!! Leveled off at 4,000', reduced power to
24 squared, and airspeed rose to 208 mph!! I thought "WOW....we built a FAST
airplane!!!!. After flying around for about 30 minutes, I stalled it clean and
indicated 100 mph. That explains the steep climb angle at 110 mph and fast
cruise. I stalled with full flaps and indicated 62. I talked with Van's about
the airspeed indicator, and they are sending another one to replace it. Static
system is Van's pop rivet type. They say that higher indicated airspeeds
are usually due to errors in the indicator itself, not the static system.
Doug Ripley / Terry Harper
3485 Stillridge Drive
Alpharetta, GA 30022
Phone 770-752-4898
Fax 770-752-1810
Cell 404-403-9208
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: | Hartzell prop restrictions |
I haven't read any grousing on the list about the operating restrictions
listed in Van's catalog for the Hartzell props. In considering which
prop to use, the restrictions are listed for each engine/prop combo and
read something like this:
"Note: When installed on an engine with magnetos, aftermarket electronic
ignition, LASAR system, or FADEC system then the following restrictions
apply:
1: Do not operate above 22" manifold pressure below 2350 rpm.
2: Operation above 2600 rpm is limited to takeoff. As soon as practical
after takeoff the rpm should be reduced to 2600 rpm or less.
3: FADEC equipped aircraft maximum engine RPM must be limited to 2650
RPM at ALL times."
Are these restrictions just CYA efforts, or are they significant? Do
these limitations have any real impact on how our planes are flown?
Thanks,
Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Canopy Track Question |
From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
08/20/2004 06:58:40 AM
I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together
and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The
plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN
426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about
driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the
rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to
drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole.
Don Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV8 Flies! |
Congratulations!!!!!
I can't wait to see some pictures, or better yet, tell me where you are
located and I'll come see it in person!
Jim Crunkleton
QB 80662-N802JD (First flight 9-15-2003)
Senoia, GA (64GA)
770-599-6509
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Canopy Track Question |
You just end up squeezing the rivet flush to the surface.
>
>
>I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together
>and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The
>plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN
>426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about
>driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the
>rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to
>drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole.
>
>Don Alexander
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV8 Flies! |
Thanks, Jim.
The airplae is based at Air Acres airport in Woodstock. Would like to get
together some time, my place or yours. I'm flying tomorrow (Saturday). My
cell is 404-403-9208.
There are some pictures here from the first flight
http://www.iac3.org/RV8/firstflight.htm.
Where do you keep your airplane?
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Another RV8 Flies!
>
> Congratulations!!!!!
> I can't wait to see some pictures, or better yet, tell me where you are
> located and I'll come see it in person!
> Jim Crunkleton
> QB 80662-N802JD (First flight 9-15-2003)
> Senoia, GA (64GA)
> 770-599-6509
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Another RV8 Flies! |
Doug,
I keep my plane at my house as I live in a hanger at "Big T" airport in
Senoia (64 GA).
I'm about 6 miles southeast of Peachtree City Falcon Field.
Thanks for the links to the pix. That's one beautiful bird!
Jim Crunkleton
770-599-6509
Cell 404-421-7699
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net> |
I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the toe in
on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is too
much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV 8A toe in |
I would think you would want some toe in.
As more weight is put on them they will tend to toe
out.
Just my opinion.
Dale Mitchell RV-8A
--- Mark Rose wrote:
>
>
> I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s.
> How do you correct the toe in on the 8A? I have
> about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that
> is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR
> reserved.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/22/04 |
Mark:
Go to the Van's catalog. They have tapered shims that work just fine.
If both mains are parallel to one another but are slightly misaligned with
the centerline of the aircraft it won't be the end of the world.
George
N888GK flying
kit #80221 wings
>
> I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the
>toe in
>on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is
>too
>much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/22/04 |
Great idea for the tail dragger. No go for the 8a.
>
>Mark:
>
>Go to the Van's catalog. They have tapered shims that work just fine.
>
>If both mains are parallel to one another but are slightly misaligned with
>the centerline of the aircraft it won't be the end of the world.
>
>
>George
>
>N888GK flying
>kit #80221 wings
>
>
> >
> > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the
> >toe in
> >on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is
> >too
> >much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
> >
> >
>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Looking for info on RVs, more specifically RV-8s, at KTOA.
Or surrounding airports: KSMO, KLGB, KHHR.
I'm considering moving there and RV's / Airports will weigh heavily into my
decision.
ERic--
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: RVs at KTOA |
Eric,
The RV population at Torrance is growing rapidly.
I'm building an 8 QB with my father, and there is
another flying 8A based there. There are also several
6's and 4's on the field, and at least 1 F1 Rocket
under construction.
Skylor Piper
RV-8 QB Under Construction
N808SJ Reserved
--- Eric Parlow wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow"
>
>
> Looking for info on RVs, more specifically RV-8s,
> at KTOA.
>
> Or surrounding airports: KSMO, KLGB, KHHR.
>
> I'm considering moving there and RV's / Airports
> will weigh heavily into my
> decision.
>
> ERic--
> RV-8 Wings
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV 8A toe in |
Mark,
There are shims that you can get to correct any toe in or toe out. Washers
seem to work OK too. A little toe in is a good thing as it helps to keep the
plane going straight. Since we all always make perfect3 pointers when we
land we need to keep the alignment perfect, right? Just watch your tire wear
and it will tell you if your eating tires, Have you ever flown a 172 that
was actually in line? It's always best to get it as close as you can but the
gear will flex and twist as we bounce and twist our way into a perfect
landing. Try not to get eaten up in details. Build it right and it will fly
great.
Tom Scherder
RV 8 N38NE flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV 8A toe in
>
> I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the
toe in on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if
that is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, Calif |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
Greetings:
Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area.
Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa
Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to
help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does
not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is
all composite builders. At the rate I am making
progress it will take me 5 life times to complete
!!!!!
Thanks,
Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
, ,
,
1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Thomas <vtol(at)shaw.ca> |
Careful... my suggestion is to fly it before you buy it...the thought of
flushing all that money down the toilet bothers me
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
rv6-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com;
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Frank,
I am also interested in learning more about the BMA EFIS lite 3. I do have
some concerns about using it for IFR applications.
Let me preface this by saying that I am no expert, and I am not even IFR
rated at this point. It is my understanding that for a GPS to be approved
for IFR it must have a left-right indication and annunciators. The G3 seems
to have the left-right indication, but I did not see any indication that it
had the annuciators. That would add about $750 to the package. The other
issue is that I think, but do not know, that a GPS used for IFR work would
have to be certified (or meet the TSO requirements) for IFR, either enroute
or approach even in an experimental aircraft. I have not seen any
indication that the G3 meets these requirements.
The G3 is an impressive unit, although it lacks some of the features of the
dynon, it has adds more. I did not see any indication that the G3 has AOA
information, OAT, or density altitude.
It does have winds aloft information, both speed and direction.
I am wondering if it will interface with a NAVAID, and take VOR info from a
NARCO Nav radio. I emailed BMA today with those questions. I will be
interested in the observations and knowledge of other listers.
Tony Johnson
RV8A Orlando
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
Many newer digital autopilots aimed at the experimental market find their
best reference for navigation in a properly configured GPS data stream. The
NMEA 0183 data stream and the AVLINK data stream (from Garmin and others)
adhere to strict standards. Such digital autopilots are designed to accept
data that adheres to these standards, and they typically work remarkably
well when using such precise digital data.
EFIS systems must also get their navigation information from outside
sources, such as GPS. They may then process this information and provide an
output for use by autopilots. If you are going to attach an autopilot to
these systems, you MUST know what processes are being performed to the NMEA
0183 or AVLINK data streams once the EFIS digests it and provides an output
to an autopilot.
Some EFIS systems can get a little tricky in their "Heading" mode. When you
select a heading on the EFIS, they might create a "phantom" waypoint some
distance ahead of the aircraft at the heading that was selected. They then
put this in the data stream, replacing the GPS BTW (Bearing to Waypoint)
data with BTW of the phantom waypoint. The autopilot will then track to
this course if the data is in the correct format. There can be some unknown
parameters here... how far away is the "phantom" waypoint - is the autopilot
capable of tracking to the output data as configured - are all of the
required data passed through from the NMEA information (typically the RMB
and RMC sentences) - and a whole host of other questions that must be
addressed by the EFIS and autopilot manufacturers to assure fail safe
operation.
This is not to say that these systems won't work together. Just a "heads
up" to prompt questions that might be asked of potential suppliers of such
equipment - to be sure that you don't find yourself in a dark cumulus cloud
someday with these questions left unanswered. Check with the systems
manufacturers to get absolute assurance of compatibility. Remember that
many of the EFIS and autopilot systems that are directed to experimental
aircraft are not "certified" and therefore have not been subjected to the
rigorous testing that is demanded by certification. This should create a
huge question mark above your head.
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Johnson
Subject: RE: RV8-List: IFR instruments
Frank,
I am also interested in learning more about the BMA EFIS lite 3. I do have
some concerns about using it for IFR applications.
Let me preface this by saying that I am no expert, and I am not even IFR
rated at this point. It is my understanding that for a GPS to be approved
for IFR it must have a left-right indication and annunciators. The G3 seems
to have the left-right indication, but I did not see any indication that it
had the annuciators. That would add about $750 to the package. The other
issue is that I think, but do not know, that a GPS used for IFR work would
have to be certified (or meet the TSO requirements) for IFR, either enroute
or approach even in an experimental aircraft. I have not seen any
indication that the G3 meets these requirements.
The G3 is an impressive unit, although it lacks some of the features of the
dynon, it has adds more. I did not see any indication that the G3 has AOA
information, OAT, or density altitude.
It does have winds aloft information, both speed and direction.
I am wondering if it will interface with a NAVAID, and take VOR info from a
NARCO Nav radio. I emailed BMA today with those questions. I will be
interested in the observations and knowledge of other listers.
Tony Johnson
RV8A Orlando
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrstone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: IFR instruments |
The biggest thing you loose is the ability to input more than one waypoint
at a time. So if you want to do a cross country, you have to enter the next
waypoint as you approach the current one. To me, that was a show stopper.
Also in the negative category, the gps is not certified for approaches, the
430 is.
I personally like the Grand Rapids EFIS, it has a built in GPS and has the
nav feature for multiple waypoints.
Jim Stone
HRII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
; ;
; "1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in
recipient list"
Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
> Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
> for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
> which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
> can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
> axis autopilot.
>
> Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
> the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
> comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
>
> Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
>
> I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
> requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
> that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
> drive.
>
> Frank
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Happ <phapp(at)yhp.com> |
Subject: | Compass Swinging |
We need to do a compass correction card and we don't have access to a
compass rose. Can anyone point me to a document or rule that provides a
legal / FAA approved alternate method for compass swinging without a
compass rose?
I've heard a few things, like using a certified compass as a reference or
using the published actual headings (i.e. RWY 29 is 294 degrees) for
runways. But that wouldn't give us the other compass points.
P. Happ
N446PH (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Oconnor <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Norris
Subject: RE: Kit plane instrument requirements
Wayne,
There is no requirement for instruments in an amateur-built aircraft to be TSOed,
even when used for IFR flying. The builder/pilot must simply meet the requirements
of FAR 91.205. The only instance when a TSOed unit must be used is in
the case of an IFR GPS. For these installations, the guidance contained in advisory
circular AC 20-138 must be followed. Of course, in order to use the aircraft
under IFR, the transponder, encoder, and pitot/static tests must also be
current.
In a case where a builder wants to use the aircraft under IFR, part of the initial
flight test should be to verify that all instruments and equipment perform
properly. This would involve flying approaches in VFR conditions (and not under
the hood, as there can be no safety pilot in the aircraft during flight testing)
to verify that the instruments perform their intended
functions.
Hope this helps. If you have any further questions, please let me know.
Joe Norris
EAA Aviation Information Services
EAA Aviation Center, Oshkosh, WI
888-322-4636, extension 6806
jnorris(at)eaa.org
--- End quoted text --
Joe is pushing further for a read from the FAA in writing to back us up. As I discussed
(and hopefully won a bet) from Kirk last weekend, the "gyro instrument"
called out in 91.205 can be an AHRS or FAA would have to ground all the AHRS
equipped transports! If Boeing can do it, we can do it, except perhaps for less
money.
In short, EAA supports our read of the rules. We are waiting for a letter from
FAA to cast it in concrete.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV 8A toe in |
Shims are for tail draggers, no adjustment for the "A" model.
>
>Mark,
>There are shims that you can get to correct any toe in or toe out. Washers
>seem to work OK too. A little toe in is a good thing as it helps to keep the
>plane going straight. Since we all always make perfect3 pointers when we
>land we need to keep the alignment perfect, right? Just watch your tire wear
>and it will tell you if your eating tires, Have you ever flown a 172 that
>was actually in line? It's always best to get it as close as you can but the
>gear will flex and twist as we bounce and twist our way into a perfect
>landing. Try not to get eaten up in details. Build it right and it will fly
>great.
>Tom Scherder
>RV 8 N38NE flying
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: RV 8A toe in
>
>
> >
> > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the
>toe in on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if
>that is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
>The only instance when a TSOed unit must be used is in the case of an IFR
>GPS. For these installations, the guidance contained in advisory circular
>AC 20-138 must be followed. Of course, in order to use the aircraft under
>IFR, the transponder, encoder, and pitot/static tests must also be current.
How about a transponder? I thought they had to be TSO'd.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> Santa Monica, Calif(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Re: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - |
Santa Monica, Calif
Calif
Hi Garey,
Do not despair ! You are not alone. My loving wife has helped but is just
nor that interested in aviation so my 8A project has been mostly all self
help through a lot of ingenuity, dexterity and sometime gymnastics. It's
been two years and I'm just finishing the slow built wings and ready to
order the standard fus kit. I'm in a two car garage in Alexandria, VA and
wish I could come over because I am from Venice/Santa Monica and used to
live down the hill from the west end of the runway by the golf corse. You
should have no trouble with the QB. Good luck.
>
>Greetings:
>
>Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area.
>Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa
>Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to
>help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does
>not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is
>all composite builders. At the rate I am making
>progress it will take me 5 life times to complete
>!!!!!
>
>Thanks,
> Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv3-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com
From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
Subject: | Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat |
1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Scrumptous breakfast both Saturday & Sunday will be served right at
Van's--pancakes, eggs, ham, sausage, bacon, coffee & orange juice. And
lunch on Saturday, burgers, corn on the cob.
Served by EAA Chapter 902. Don't miss out!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> |
Subject: | F-816 to WD-808 rivets |
When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through
the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support
(WD-808) were not installed.
Is there a reason for this?Does the support have
to be removed at some stage?
Or can I rivet it at any time?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: RE: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:49:41 -0400
George,
Ask Vans and let us know. I think they were installed in my QB fuselage, but
I got it last year and have done so much work on it I can't tell anymore.
The construction manual and plans do not tell the QB builder what has been
done and what is left undone and why, so the process is largely one of self
discovery.
Steve in Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN
Subject: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets
When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through
the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support
(WD-808) were not installed.
Is there a reason for this?Does the support have
to be removed at some stage?
Or can I rivet it at any time?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
It's a lot eaiser to work inside with it out and also so you can paint it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject:
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:49:41 -0400
George,
Ask Vans and let us know. I think they were installed in my QB fuselage, but
I got it last year and have done so much work on it I can't tell anymore.
The construction manual and plans do not tell the QB builder what has been
done and what is left undone and why, so the process is largely one of self
discovery.
Steve in Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN
Subject: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets
When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through
the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support
(WD-808) were not installed.
Is there a reason for this?Does the support have
to be removed at some stage?
Or can I rivet it at any time?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
__________________________________
The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is
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contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | -8 IO-360 throttle body & mix cable firewall penetrations, |
lengths ??
8 builders, experts,
I've searched archives but don't see answers to my specific questions.
First, I'll appreciate your own firewall cable penetration locations, using
forward facing Airflow Performace throttle body (using Van's IO/mix cable
brackets), to Van's CT 82F throttle quadrent.. Also, please confirm (or
dispute) Van's catalog listed 60" cable lenghts as best fit for both cables
considering their paths, multiple radii, elevations. [60'' seem to measure
long to me] Your experience will give me a head start and the needed
confidence to press ahead. Thanks in advance.
Jack Blomgren, Minnesota RV Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Superior engine installation |
Authenticated-Sender:
Hi all,
Has anyone any experience of installing the XP-360 in a 8. Vans have told
me that the FWF kit for the lycoming IO-360-MIB is ok except for the
throttle/mixture kit where the cable is too short or the bracket won't fix
to the composite sump. Has anyone solved this?
thanks
Darren
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: -8 IO-360 throttle body & mix cable firewall penetrations, |
lengths ??
I used the catalog stuff and the plans firewall locations and everything
fit OK. The only problem is not getting enough throw so as to get BOTH
full throttle and idle. This can be fixed by drilling another hole in
the throttle body arm so as to effectively shorten it.
Jim Bean
Jack Blomgren wrote:
>
> 8 builders, experts,
>
> I've searched archives but don't see answers to my specific questions.
> First, I'll appreciate your own firewall cable penetration locations, using
> forward facing Airflow Performace throttle body (using Van's IO/mix cable
> brackets), to Van's CT 82F throttle quadrent.. Also, please confirm (or
> dispute) Van's catalog listed 60" cable lenghts as best fit for both cables
> considering their paths, multiple radii, elevations. [60'' seem to measure
> long to me] Your experience will give me a head start and the needed
> confidence to press ahead. Thanks in advance.
>
> Jack Blomgren, Minnesota RV Wing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Superior engine installation |
Darren,
I installed the XP 360 with Composite Induction on my 8A. Van's IO 360
THROTTLE/MIX kit ( $95.00) worked well to mount the Mixture hardware but was
useless for the Throttle.
In order to mount the Throttle Cable I constructed a mounting platform
attaching same to the bottom of the composite Sump using the 4 threaded
holes provided by Superior. The platform spans the bottom of the sump
running from right to left and is attached to the sump with 4 safety wired
bolts.
I attached a cable termination fitting at the rear of the platform in a
position that would provide proper clearance from the sump and exhaust as
well as providing proper function of the Throttle hardware. Determining the
proper positioning for the termination fitting took several iterations but
the end result is , IMHO , quite functional.
The Throttle cable runs aft from the termination fitting ,under the
Composite Sump,and then angles up to penetrate the firewall with the Mixture
and Prop cables through a common penetration fitting.
Good luck,
Dick Jordan
RV 8A Finishing
N888BZ (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "DarrenHB" <darren@hartfree-bright.co.uk>
Subject: RV8-List: Superior engine installation
>
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone any experience of installing the XP-360 in a 8. Vans have told
> me that the FWF kit for the lycoming IO-360-MIB is ok except for the
> throttle/mixture kit where the cable is too short or the bracket won't fix
> to the composite sump. Has anyone solved this?
>
> thanks
>
> Darren
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Superior engine installation |
Darren,
If you haven't yet purchased the Superior you might wish to consider the
AeroSport Power IO-360-M2 (180hp). I just installed Van's IO throttle &
mixture bracket kit with perfect fit to their aluminum sump.
Jack
(Your query snipped)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Heat Muff over exhaust joint |
Any history of heat muff(s) placed over (enclosing) joints in Vetterman
exhausts?
Any detectable CO in the cockpit?
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | New product announcement: affordable VG's |
rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com, rveurope-list(at)matronics.com,
rvsoutheast-list(at)matronics.com, sailplane-list(at)matronics.com,
seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com,
smithmini-list(at)matronics.com
Hey folks,
I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new
aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor"
of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything
that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product
is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot,
and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about
a great new product.
I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :)
Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
Joa Harrison
The VG Guy
www.landshorter.com
1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Rocket Steering Link |
My partner and I have called and emailed Terry Jantzi about buying a steering link,
but getting no response. Does anyone know if he is still making these?
Are there any options?
Thanks!
Doug Ripley
Alpharetta, GA
RV-8 N821DT
50 hours and counting!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Kugler" <donkugler(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Old-style RV8 Wing tips wanted |
I'm looking for a pair of the old-style, original, wing tips for an RV8. If
anyone has a set they would like to sell, please contact me off list.
-Don
RV8 NJ
Don Kugler
donkugler(at)earthlink.net
908-303-6578
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net> |
Subject: | Governor Bracket |
Has anyone out there got any ideas on a forward mounted prop governor brackets
or cable routing for a IO360C1E6. Van's only bracket is for the rear mounted
governor. The governor is a MT from Vans. Thanks Mark Rose 137MR reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls as far
as I can and fly without them........it could work?
I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The top
cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like teeth with
don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by pushing and forcing
it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing the wire down the
hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall the jokes about alcohol
and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing just bends.
So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do I dread
drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/11/04 |
Don't be too discouraged with the hinge attachments. They were put there as
a vocabulary builder.
They are a real bear to get in and out at first, but after repeated use they
become fairly easy. Try putting Bolube on them when inserting, and use a
pair of vice-grips to hold the hinge pin about 2 to 3 inches from the first
hinge segment, then push and twist and regrip with the vice grips as the pin
moves in. After 25 or 30 hours on the airplane, you'll be able to slip them
in and out by hand. (Don't forget to provide a positive stop to prevent the
horizontal pins from slipping forward into the prop...might spoil your whole
day).
Having said all of that, many guys have installed cam locks on the top cowl.
The vertical hinges on the bottom cowl don't seem to be an issue, and most
of the cam lock installations I've seen still have hinges there.
Good luck.
George Kilishek
N888GK finished.
Kit #80221 wings.
>From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Cowl Fasteners
>
>
>Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls as
>far
>as I can and fly without them........it could work?
>
>I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The
>top
>cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like teeth
>with
>don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by pushing and
>forcing
>it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing the wire down the
>hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall the jokes about
>alcohol
>and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing just bends.
>
>So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do I
>dread
>drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.)
>
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Camlocks are the answer!! Just leave the hinges in place and use half of the
hinge to attach your camlocks(available in any length at aircraft spruce)
This has worked very well for me and remember you will have your cowl off a
thousand times during your first several flights to check everything. I have
also attached a piece of skin type aluminum strip to the rear edge of the
top cowl to smooth and strengthen the edge. Works real well. The piano
hinges work well on the sides of the lower cowl because you can get to them
easily, but to join the two cowl parts together use the camlocks.
Tom Scherder
RV 8 N38NE Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Cowl Fasteners
>
> Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls
as far as I can and fly without them........it could work?
>
> I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The
top cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like
teeth with don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by
pushing and forcing it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing
the wire down the hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall
the jokes about alcohol and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing
just bends.
>
> So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do
I dread drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: | VAL AVionics INS422 |
Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige
slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way
to go IFR. Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Tom ...
Do you have pictures of the strip you attached to the top, rear edge of the
top cowl? If not, can you expand on the installation info such as, how wide
front to rear and how long left to right?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre 7A QB
>I have
> also attached a piece of skin type aluminum strip to the rear edge of the
> top cowl to smooth and strengthen the edge. Works real well.
> Tom Scherder
> RV 8 N38NE Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: VAL AVionics INS422 |
In a message dated 9/14/2004 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
algrajek(at)msn.com writes:
> Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige
> slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way
>
> to go IFR. Any other suggestions?
> Thanks
> Al Grajek
> RV8A
>
Al:
I put it in my 8A ... have not used it at all .... might be willing to sell
it.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
272 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: VAL AVionics INS422 |
I am interested in buying it from you. Why haven't you used it? Have you
tried it at all?
Al Grajek
>From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: VAL AVionics INS422
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 11:03:39 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 9/14/2004 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>algrajek(at)msn.com writes:
>
> > Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC,
>Glige
> > slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost
>way
> >
> > to go IFR. Any other suggestions?
> > Thanks
> > Al Grajek
> > RV8A
> >
>
>Al:
>
>I put it in my 8A ... have not used it at all .... might be willing to sell
>it.
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>272 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those interested. |
I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun.
Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners?
ERic--
RV8 wings
(828) 777-7976
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those |
interested.
interested.
I have not heard a word, although Bill VonDanes web page has a list of
people that are going.
http://vondane.com/trips/reno2004/index.htm
>
>
>I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun.
>Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners?
>
>ERic--
>RV8 wings
>(828) 777-7976
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: VAL AVionics INS422 |
In a message dated 9/14/2004 1:37:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
algrajek(at)msn.com writes:
> I am interested in buying it from you. Why haven't you used it? Have you
> tried it at all?
> Al Grajek
>
Thought I would immediately be flying IFR ... I don't have my ticket. I also
put the VOR /GS antenna in the wingtip which does not pick up very well. If
I get my ticket I will have to make changes in antennas , etc. ....
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> |
Subject: | Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual
It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole
in the inboard aileron mount (W-813)
I have trouble with this,because the aileron
mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
travel of the aileron.
This is worse on one side than the other.
I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it
off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it
in place.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
Hi,
I thought mine would hit too, but it doesn't, it comes
real close. Have you put on the aileron stops to limit
the travel yet? It could be once you have done this,
then it won't hit.
Mickey
> I have trouble with this,because the aileron
> mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
> travel of the aileron.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
Thats actually the way I did it, Also
Al Grajek
RV8A
65 hrs.
>From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "AT MATRONICS RV8-LIST"
>Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 14:36:43 -0500
>
>
> On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual
> It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole
> in the inboard aileron mount (W-813)
> I have trouble with this,because the aileron
> mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
> travel of the aileron.
> This is worse on one side than the other.
> I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it
> off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it
> in place.
>
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman(at)allstream.net
>CELL 204 799 7062
>HOME 204 287 8334
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
You're supposed to drill a hole in the inboard aileron mount that is
slightly off-center of the hinge line (mine is about 1/4"), and when the
hinge wire is all the way in BEYOND the aileron hinge, it retains it so it
won't come back out.
I can send you some pictures if you want, but it would be a few days before
I can get them for you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
>
> On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual
> It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole
> in the inboard aileron mount (W-813)
> I have trouble with this,because the aileron
> mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
> travel of the aileron.
> This is worse on one side than the other.
> I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it
> off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it
> in place.
>
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)allstream.net
> CELL 204 799 7062
> HOME 204 287 8334
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
Well,
The best solution that I've seen is to not even fiddle with the aileron
mount at all. Simply remove an eye in the middle of the hinge, put two
small loops on the end of the now 2 segments of flap hinge rod and safety
them together. No fiddling with aileron hing brackets, no mess trying to
safety the thing at the end, etc..
This is the way I've seen a lot of these done (including both my RV's) and
it's really slick. It's also pretty easy and fast to remove two shorter
hinge pins than one long one through the aileron bracket.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN
Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual
It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole
in the inboard aileron mount (W-813)
I have trouble with this,because the aileron
mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
travel of the aileron.
This is worse on one side than the other.
I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it
off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it
in place.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)allstream.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Specks in the Fuel! |
About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel
from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't
think it is from the fuel truck.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is
dissolving?
I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Subject: | Re: Specks in the Fuel! |
Steve, my -8 has been flying for about 50 hours now, and the same thing is
happening. Looks like Proseal. I built my tanks, not QB. I'm guessing
that fuel sloshing around has worked some small pieces loose, maybe from
places where it was real thin over the surface of the skin?
I recently drained all of the fuel out through a filter to flush the tanks
because these little pieces of crap get into the fuel drain and make it
drip. I'm not too worried, surely it will stop eventually. I'm interested
to see if others have had this same problem.
Doug Ripley
N821DT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Specks in the Fuel!
>
> About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
>
> During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain
fuel
> from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
> fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I
don't
> think it is from the fuel truck.
>
> Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is
> dissolving?
>
> I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Glasgow
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N414C <N414C(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: Specks in the Fuel! |
Steve,
I have an F1 Rocket. At about 1 year old and 150 hrs I lost power in flight damn
near killed myself and a friend.
Wasn't getting anything visible in the fuel but the strainer going into the throttle
body was clogged with something. This was distal to the filters and selector
valve. My suspicion is it was sometype of preservative or sealant that dissolved
to some extent. No problems since.
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Glasgow
To: RV8-List Digest Server
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 7:19 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Specks in the Fuel!
About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up.
During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel
from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the
fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't
think it is from the fuel truck.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is
dissolving?
I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total.
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Rear passenger heat/wingtips |
Guys, my partner and I are looking at putting a heat duct from a seperate
heat muff back to the rear seat area. Anyone done this? Any other ideas about
getting a heat source back there?
Also, sometime back I posted a query about van's airtech wingtip lens kits
and got several helpful answers. On going back through my pictures of Oshkosh,
I noticed a red, white & blue RV8 which had exactly what I want.
Unfortunately I don't have the N number in the pics, but the wing is blue from
the
leading edge back past the wingtip lens then white to the trailing edge, with
two
red stripes slightly aft of where the white begins. Could the owner of this
plane contact me as to where he got the lens kit?
Thanks, Walt Shipley RV8A 120 hrs. RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims(at)danahermotion.com> |
Subject: | Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket |
Folks, I have a Vans wiring harness with the Vans power distribution bar
mounted in front of the panel per Vans plans. I need to ground my radios and
wonder whether i should use the same ground point as the instruments, drill
a separate ground bolt on the same brace or run a separate ground to the
firewall or block. Any help would be appreciated.
Doug
RV8QB
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Thats actually the way I did it, Also
Al Grajek
RV8A
65 hrs.
>From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "AT MATRONICS RV8-LIST"
>Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 14:36:43 -0500
>
>
> On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual
> It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole
> in the inboard aileron mount (W-813)
> I have trouble with this,because the aileron
> mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full
> travel of the aileron.
> This is worse on one side than the other.
> I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it
> off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it
> in place.
>
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman(at)allstream.net
>CELL 204 799 7062
>HOME 204 287 8334
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rear passenger heat/wingtips |
seal up the big holes like the aileron push rods, the rear stick boot and then
install a removable car seat heater pad that plugs into a 12 Socket. You'll want
one yourself.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | UALPILOT3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rear passenger heat/wingtips |
Walt,
The red white and blue RV-8 was mine. The wingtip lights came from RMD
Lighting. Talk to Bob DeBorde at 503-628-6056. It is a really good add on light
system. If you have any questions, call me at 210-658-2999.
Les Bourne
N393LS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete if
you don't have time......
RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I built
it in a partnership. We have IO-360 180hp, Hartzell constant speed, empty weight
is 1134# with paint. We operate out of a grass strip. The restriction was
flown off in under two weeks. On the day I took my first passenger, I almost
lost it landing on hard surface. It was a calm day. Rolling out after landing,
at about 20 mph (guessing), it took a left, and rudder alone wouldn't bring
it back, it took a jab on the brakes to straighten it up. This freaked me
out, because for about 1 second, I felt out of control. My passenger said that
all he felt was a swerve, but he wasn't the one that gave the rudder input
with no response. I really thought hard about what might have gone wrong, and
finally determined that I must have been behind the airplane for a moment, and
decided that it was a "wake-up call".
On Saturday, September 11th, I was riding with my partner, another calm day, landing
on hard surface. He did a beautiful wheel landing, tail came down, stick
all the way back, and everything was going perfectly. He was on the centerline,
and keeping the airplane perfectly straight. At about 20 mph, it took a
hard right, followed by IMMEDIATE left rudder, FULL DEFLECTION. The airplane
did not respond at all, it was like it was on rails taking it off the runway.
This runway was not as wide as the one I was on, the airplane left the runway.
All would have been fine, except for the 4' deep ditch 20' to the side of the
runway. Left gear dug in the mud, airplane tipped up, got the prop, spinner,
and bent the fuselage up (left skin, gear box, belly skin) forward of the spar.
We've had a week to grieve, cry, cuss, kick the cat, etc. as well as think about
what happened. I think I've concluded that he did nothing wrong. Left brake
input early in the event might have straightened it out, but that's not the
point I'm getting to here. What happened in these two events is not right!
Our gear alignment is correct per Van's procedures in the manual....no toe-in or
toe-out. My partner has about 1,200 hours, and recent, sufficient tailwheel
time to be qualified to fly the -8. I have about 1,300 hours, 600 of which
is tailwheel. 350 hours in a Midget Mustang that I built, the rest is mixed up
in many different models, including Pitts, Skybolt, AcroSport, and Thorp T-18.
I'll take my beatings for mistakes and/or complacency. In fact, I've ground-looped
before due to cranial-rectal inversion. BUT......In all the 600 hours
of tailwheel flying I've done, I NEVER remember feeling so out of control of
the airplane. In a "squirrelly" airplane like the Thorp or Pitts, it will dance
around, but I always felt like I had sufficient control of the aircraft,
and over-controlling was the worst enemy.
The RV has a reputation for being a docile yet responsive taildragger. I never
would have expected either of these two events to happen. Since last Saturday
I spoke with another gentleman that ground-looped his -8. He has about 400
hours tailwheel, most of which is Acrosport time, and about 5 or more recent hours
in the -8 he just purchased. He blamed tailwheel currency and cross-wind
as the contributing factors. Look at Randy Lervold's website. How much time
did he have in his -8? 200 hours? He says the crosswind was the culprit. I
believe that ANYONE can ground-loop, but someone with 200 recent hours in type
should be able to handle the crosswind that he spoke about. It might not be
pretty, but the RV should have enough rudder response that a qualified pilot
such as Randy or the other gentleman I mention can keep it out of the ditches.
This brings me to my question for all of you -8 flyers.....Have any of you ever
had a "near miss" like this, where the airplane tried to depart the runway with
little or no response to rudder input? Have you ever felt like the airplane
was flying you?
Here is why I ask........There are 439 RV-8(A)'s flying, not sure how many are
tailwheel. Compare that to the -4 and -6. I want to know what the ground accident
ratio is when comparing the -4 and -6 to the -8. I believe that there might
be something to the geometry of the two-piece spring steel gear that sets
the -8 apart from the rest. Maybe when there is a side-load there is an aggravated
situation?
My Midget Mustang had spring steel gear that attached to the spar in the wings.
When I first set up the gear, it had a very slight toe-out. The ground handling
was very easy, it tracked perfectly and very docile. However, the toe-out
caused the gear to spread a little when taxiing, so I adjusted the alignment
shims one bolt-hole, which resulted in a very slight toe-in. I couldn't get
the airplane above 20 mph and keep it on the runway!!! One wheel would grab causing
the airplane to swerve, which shifted more weight onto that wheel, aggravating
the situation. Rudder and brake would correct it, but then the other
wheel would grab. What a mess. It actually bruised my shoulders from banging
me up against the side of the cockpit. It was very violent. I used a belt sander
to make the wheels aligned perfectly, then all was ok, and it was a relatively
docile taildragger. It would occasionally try to change directions, but
the rudder was incredibly responsive, and the airplane was controllable, which
is to be expected with any high performance airplane like the Pitts, Thorp,
and RV.
Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for responses. All of you may help me
determine that I'm just getting old, stubborn, or cocky, and I need to keep
my head out of my ass. I'm only 36, so we can eliminate one of those factors!
:>)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
Doug
I'm truly sorry to hear about your mishap. The good news is no one was hurt
and Vans' parts are relatively inexpensive. As you know a hard surfaced
runway is much much less forgiving of any misalignment during landing. Both
misalignment of the aircraft to the runway or the gear with reference to the
aircraft. I really have no idea what caused your adventures but let me
relate my own. I also have an RV 8 and lot of tail wheel time. When I
built my 8 I was extra careful to align the gear per instructions. During
the first fifty hours (almost all hard surface) my landings were squirrelly,
dang thing would dart unpredictably to either side or sometimes not at
all. I would not land on narrow runways and avoided cross winds. I took the
wheel fairings off at fifty hours for some brake work and both tires were
badly worn on the outside edge, one worse than the other. I rechecked the
alignment and both had a lot of toe in. I shimmed the axels and rebuilt the
wheel pants (that's how far out they were). Tire wear in the last 100 hours
is barely detectable and the squirrels are gone. I won't say it's on rails
but it's perfectly controllable and comfortable to land.
Paul
>From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV8-List Digest Server"
>Subject: RV8-List: Ground-loop
>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:44:36 -0400
>
>
>I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete
>if you don't have time......
>
>RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I
>built it in a partnership. We have IO-360 180hp, Hartzell constant speed,
>empty weight is 1134# with paint. We operate out of a grass strip. The
>restriction was flown off in under two weeks. On the day I took my first
>passenger, I almost lost it landing on hard surface. It was a calm day.
>Rolling out after landing, at about 20 mph (guessing), it took a left, and
>rudder alone wouldn't bring it back, it took a jab on the brakes to
>straighten it up. This freaked me out, because for about 1 second, I felt
>out of control. My passenger said that all he felt was a swerve, but he
>wasn't the one that gave the rudder input with no response. I really
>thought hard about what might have gone wrong, and finally determined that
>I must have been behind the airplane for a moment, and decided that it was
>a "wake-up call".
>
>On Saturday, September 11th, I was riding with my partner, another calm
>day, landing on hard surface. He did a beautiful wheel landing, tail came
>down, stick all the way back, and everything was going perfectly. He was
>on the centerline, and keeping the airplane perfectly straight. At about
>20 mph, it took a hard right, followed by IMMEDIATE left rudder, FULL
>DEFLECTION. The airplane did not respond at all, it was like it was on
>rails taking it off the runway. This runway was not as wide as the one I
>was on, the airplane left the runway. All would have been fine, except for
>the 4' deep ditch 20' to the side of the runway. Left gear dug in the mud,
>airplane tipped up, got the prop, spinner, and bent the fuselage up (left
>skin, gear box, belly skin) forward of the spar.
>
>We've had a week to grieve, cry, cuss, kick the cat, etc. as well as think
>about what happened. I think I've concluded that he did nothing wrong.
>Left brake input early in the event might have straightened it out, but
>that's not the point I'm getting to here. What happened in these two
>events is not right!
>
>Our gear alignment is correct per Van's procedures in the manual....no
>toe-in or toe-out. My partner has about 1,200 hours, and recent,
>sufficient tailwheel time to be qualified to fly the -8. I have about
>1,300 hours, 600 of which is tailwheel. 350 hours in a Midget Mustang that
>I built, the rest is mixed up in many different models, including Pitts,
>Skybolt, AcroSport, and Thorp T-18. I'll take my beatings for mistakes
>and/or complacency. In fact, I've ground-looped before due to
>cranial-rectal inversion. BUT......In all the 600 hours of tailwheel
>flying I've done, I NEVER remember feeling so out of control of the
>airplane. In a "squirrelly" airplane like the Thorp or Pitts, it will
>dance around, but I always felt like I had sufficient control of the
>aircraft, and over-controlling was the worst enemy.
>
>The RV has a reputation for being a docile yet responsive taildragger. I
>never would have expected either of these two events to happen. Since last
>Saturday I spoke with another gentleman that ground-looped his -8. He has
>about 400 hours tailwheel, most of which is Acrosport time, and about 5 or
>more recent hours in the -8 he just purchased. He blamed tailwheel
>currency and cross-wind as the contributing factors. Look at Randy
>Lervold's website. How much time did he have in his -8? 200 hours? He
>says the crosswind was the culprit. I believe that ANYONE can ground-loop,
>but someone with 200 recent hours in type should be able to handle the
>crosswind that he spoke about. It might not be pretty, but the RV should
>have enough rudder response that a qualified pilot such as Randy or the
>other gentleman I mention can keep it out of the ditches.
>
>This brings me to my question for all of you -8 flyers.....Have any of you
>ever had a "near miss" like this, where the airplane tried to depart the
>runway with little or no response to rudder input? Have you ever felt like
>the airplane was flying you?
>
>Here is why I ask........There are 439 RV-8(A)'s flying, not sure how many
>are tailwheel. Compare that to the -4 and -6. I want to know what the
>ground accident ratio is when comparing the -4 and -6 to the -8. I believe
>that there might be something to the geometry of the two-piece spring steel
>gear that sets the -8 apart from the rest. Maybe when there is a side-load
>there is an aggravated situation?
>
>My Midget Mustang had spring steel gear that attached to the spar in the
>wings. When I first set up the gear, it had a very slight toe-out. The
>ground handling was very easy, it tracked perfectly and very docile.
>However, the toe-out caused the gear to spread a little when taxiing, so I
>adjusted the alignment shims one bolt-hole, which resulted in a very slight
>toe-in. I couldn't get the airplane above 20 mph and keep it on the
>runway!!! One wheel would grab causing the airplane to swerve, which
>shifted more weight onto that wheel, aggravating the situation. Rudder and
>brake would correct it, but then the other wheel would grab. What a mess.
>It actually bruised my shoulders from banging me up against the side of the
>cockpit. It was very violent. I used a belt sander to make the wheels
>aligned perfectly, then all was ok, and it was a relatively docile
>taildragger. It would occasionally try to change directions, but the
>rudder was incredibly responsive, and the airp!
>lane was controllable, which is to be expected with any high performance
>airplane like the Pitts, Thorp, and RV.
>
>Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for responses. All of you may
>help me determine that I'm just getting old, stubborn, or cocky, and I need
>to keep my head out of my ass. I'm only 36, so we can eliminate one of
>those factors! :>)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Sorry for your problems/damage. Good luck getting things back together.
I've got about 650 hrs on my -8 and have had very few "swervy" events and
nothing scary (leaving the runway). IMO, the -8 is a very solid performing
tailwheel plane. But even good pilots sometimes get the tail ahead of the
nose. I believe I remember hearing Chuck Yeager g'looped a T-6 a year or
two ago.
As for my background - I've got about 1850 total, 850 tailwheel and 1
no-damage ground-loop (C-170). The RV's are well above average performers
on the ground in my experience. Check your wheel alignment, brake
performance and tailwheel assy. Maybe something there isn't as it should
be. Maybe it was just your time. :(
Bryan Jones -8
>I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete
>if you don't have time......
>
>RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I
>built it in a partnership.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Doug-
So sorry to hear of your mishap. Is the damage repairable? Is
your engine now in need of a tear-down?
Out of curiosity, is it possible that there was an added
effect of having a passenger on some previously undetected
misalignment? It reads from your story that this happened on
the first two flights with a passenger, and I wonder if it is
related to having weight back there. As I am nearing the end
of my 40h test period, perhaps I should try landing my -8
with some ballast in the passenger seat to test for this.
Regards,
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW, 23h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Thanks to everyone for the condolences. Lots of good comments and
questions, a couple of them were not posted. After more thought on the
subject and a few phone conversations, I think the problem points to gear
alignment, and weight, along with "the pilot's inability to maintain
directional control"....in both cases.
One thing to add.....there were black marks on the runway where we left it.
The left wheel mark was much darker than the right, indicating that the left
wheel was grabbing more than the right. Does it seem obvious that, if the
left wheel was grabbing more pavement than the right, and the airplane was
still going to the right, that the orientation of the left wheel on the
pavement was pushing us to the right?
Engine will be completely torn down and inspected. The prop strike was in
mud, and "strike" is a harsh word.....one blade is bent backwards a little,
it wasn't really sudden stoppage. But.....it was a brand new Mattituck
engine, and I don't want to take chances, and want to maintain the value of
the aircraft / engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Ground-loop
>
> Doug-
> So sorry to hear of your mishap. Is the damage repairable? Is
> your engine now in need of a tear-down?
>
> Out of curiosity, is it possible that there was an added
> effect of having a passenger on some previously undetected
> misalignment? It reads from your story that this happened on
> the first two flights with a passenger, and I wonder if it is
> related to having weight back there. As I am nearing the end
> of my 40h test period, perhaps I should try landing my -8
> with some ballast in the passenger seat to test for this.
>
> Regards,
> Jon Weiswasser
> N898JW, 23h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 09/16/04 |
In a message dated 9/17/2004 2:58:27 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
The red white and blue RV-8 was mine. The wingtip lights came from RMD
Lighting. Talk to Bob DeBorde at 503-628-6056. It is a really good add on
light system.
Walt,
I also highly recommend RMD. They have gone out of their way to help me and
they have an excellent product.
I bought a 12 v heater for the RCP. It produces about 200 W of heat. I
don't have it here but next time I go to the shop I can get the info for you.
I
ordered over the net and the cost with shipping was only $15 or so. So, even
if you don't like the idea, there's not a lot of money sunk in it.
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
www.rv-8a.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi Doug,
I'm also sorry to hear about the damage to your aircraft. I
thank you very much for sharing the experience with us in
hopes that we can all learn from it. In that vein...
I have a few quick questions:
1) are you using the standard Van's chains on the tailwheel?
2) ... gear legs?
3) ... tires?
I witnessed a nasty ground loop at SNF this year in a
beautiful warbird. The wind shifted violently during his
rollout, and there really was nothing he could do. He
fought valiantly to keep the aircraft under control, but
mother nature won that battle. It can happen, and if
I can learn to minimize the risk I'll be happy.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/21/04 -Reply |
(Receipt Notification Requested)
I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective
September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other
task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case,
contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For
contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact
Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255.
I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can
be contacted at (317) 281-7503.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/22/04 -Reply |
(Receipt Notification Requested)
I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective
September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other
task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case,
contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For
contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact
Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255.
I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can
be contacted at (317) 281-7503.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov> |
Subject: | RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/23/04 -Reply |
(Receipt Notification Requested)
I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective
September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other
task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case,
contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For
contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact
Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255.
I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can
be contacted at (317) 281-7503.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
I apologize to the list for my work message pinging back to the various lists.
I activated an automatic return message to my incoming email at work and didn't
think the lists would accept the return message. I have done this in the past
and didn't have this happen. Oh well. Yeah, I'm computer savvy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
Subject: | Sam James Plenum and Wheel Pants |
Has anyone used the Sam James Plenum with Van's cowl . . . you have to cut
and glass the rings into the cowl to fit the plenum .
Sam says it's pretty easy to do and will yield about 7 mph gain!
He also mentioned his wheel pants are more efficient than Van's . . . what
is the group's experience with them?
I have no experience with fiberglass but am about to get some!
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder SE Iowa
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear RV builders,
I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my RV8. Silencers
had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by MT in Straubing.
The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany. Sometimes the
installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the moment, I can't
acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between 310-330=B0F, the oil
temperature is steady at 195=B0F.
With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go around (Vy
95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below the limiting value
for my plane, however above the maximum value for the low noise category.
Best regards
--
D-EBRV
80303
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
D-85461 Bockhorn
Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83
Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi,
Here is a picture of Stephan's silencers:
http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Hoganas2004&id=DSC01768
I can tell you from first hand experience, they are quiet!
Mickey
>... I'd really like to see these. Do you have a
>sound clip taken during flight? It would be sweet music to ones ear to
>hear that.
>
>
>>
>> I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for
>> my RV8. Silencers
>> had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by MT in
>> Straubing.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Jigs: Have one, need one |
Does anyone in the Dalla, TX area have an -8 fuselage jig they are nearly
finished with?
I'll need one about the end of November.
I have a beautiful RV wing jig, made of welded structural steel, which has
built numerous RVs
I'll be finished with it about the end of November.
George Kilishek
________________________________________________________________________________
An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the
mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic
ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers.
>
>Dear RV builders,
>
>I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my
>RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by
>MT in Straubing.
>
>The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany.
>Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the
>moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between
>310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F.
>
>With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go
>around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below
>the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the
>low noise category.
>
>Best regards
>
>
>--
>D-EBRV
>80303
>Stephan J.W. Servatius
>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>D-85461 Bockhorn
>Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83
>Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
I've never heard that theory though it sounds plausable. But I have lots of time
in different RVs with and W/O electronic ignition and sad to say I've never
noticed a difference... :-(
In a message dated 9/27/2004 9:18:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
writes:
>
>An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the
>mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic
>ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers.
>
>
>>
>>Dear RV builders,
>>
>>I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my
>>RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by
>>MT in Straubing.
>>
>>The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany.
>>Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the
>>moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between
>>310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F.
>>
>>With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go
>>around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below
>>the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the
>>low noise category.
>>
>>Best regards
>>
>>
>>--
>>D-EBRV
>>80303
>>Stephan J.W. Servatius
>>Untere Hauptstr. 3
>>D-85461 Bockhorn
>>Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83
>>Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it
must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked
over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me
that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also
have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
>
>I've never heard that theory though it sounds plausable. But I have lots
>of time in different RVs with and W/O electronic ignition and sad to say
>I've never noticed a difference... :-(
>
>In a message dated 9/27/2004 9:18:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Scott
>Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> writes:
>
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> >An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the
> >mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic
> >ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Dear RV builders,
> >>
> >>I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my
> >>RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by
> >>MT in Straubing.
> >>
> >>The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany.
> >>Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the
> >>moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between
> >>310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F.
> >>
> >>With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go
> >>around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below
> >>the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the
> >>low noise category.
> >>
> >>Best regards
> >>
> >>
> >>--
> >>D-EBRV
> >>80303
> >>Stephan J.W. Servatius
> >>Untere Hauptstr. 3
> >>D-85461 Bockhorn
> >>Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83
> >>Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Cleaning the canopy |
How does everyone clean the inside of the canopy with out having to be a
contortionist? I am having a real hard time cleaning every inch, mainly the
back third of the canopy.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Scott,
Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the 151 on
an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any issues? Is
Whirlwind aware of your success?
Thanks.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700
>
> From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
>realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it
>must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked
>over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me
>that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also
>have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not
approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the
plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every
month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds
of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have
about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop
was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner
bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner
bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts
and has been a non issue to date.
>
>Scott,
>
>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the
>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any
>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success?
>
>Thanks.
>Ken
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700
>
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it
> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked
> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me
> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also
> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
> >
> >
>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Scott,
Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props. I was
in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed. I really
like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a little performance.
I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little turned
off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior guys at Reno
this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that basically said there were
no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good news, but makes the decision
process a little more difficult, again.
I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind props are
covered under the Vanguard program.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700
>
>WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not
>approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the
>plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every
>month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds
>of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have
>about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop
>was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner
>bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner
>bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts
>and has been a non issue to date.
>
>
>>
>>Scott,
>>
>>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the
>>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any
>>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>Ken
>>
>>
>>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700
>>
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>> >
>> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
>> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it
>> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked
>> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me
>> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also
>> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The biggest benefit to the WW 151 prop is that they are light (28lbs
lighter than Hartzell), smooth, and quiet, actually very quiet compared to
other props. You really need to hear a plane with a 151 take off and you
notice a big difference.
>
>Scott,
>
>Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props. I
>was in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed. I
>really like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a little
>performance.
>
>I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little
>turned off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior
>guys at Reno this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that
>basically said there were no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good
>news, but makes the decision process a little more difficult, again.
>
>I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind props
>are covered under the Vanguard program.
>
>Ken
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700
>
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> >WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not
> >approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the
> >plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every
> >month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds
> >of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have
> >about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop
> >was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner
> >bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner
> >bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts
> >and has been a non issue to date.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Scott,
> >>
> >>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the
> >>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any
> >>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success?
> >>
> >>Thanks.
> >>Ken
> >>
> >>
> >>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> >>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700
> >>
> >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >> >
> >> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
> >> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it
> >> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I
> walked
> >> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People
> tell me
> >> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I
> also
> >> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
I have the new Hartzell blended airfoil, and friends have told me that it is
quieter than the standard Hartzell or other fixed-pitch props. I would
rather make some noise. Give me a round engine and a llooonnnnnggg
prop!!!!!!
GGRRROOOOWWWWWWLLLLLL!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: silencer
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> The biggest benefit to the WW 151 prop is that they are light (28lbs
> lighter than Hartzell), smooth, and quiet, actually very quiet compared to
> other props. You really need to hear a plane with a 151 take off and you
> notice a big difference.
>
>
> >
> >Scott,
> >
> >Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props.
I
> >was in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed.
I
> >really like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a
little
> >performance.
> >
> >I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little
> >turned off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior
> >guys at Reno this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that
> >basically said there were no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good
> >news, but makes the decision process a little more difficult, again.
> >
> >I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind
props
> >are covered under the Vanguard program.
> >
> >Ken
> >
> >
> >---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700
> >
> > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> > >
> > >WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are
not
> > >approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the
> > >plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim
every
> > >month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after
hundreds
> > >of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently
have
> > >about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the
prop
> > >was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a
spinner
> > >bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the
spinner
> > >bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6
bolts
> > >and has been a non issue to date.
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>Scott,
> > >>
> > >>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving"
the
> > >>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it.
Any
> > >>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks.
> > >>Ken
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> > >>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> > >>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700
> > >>
> > >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> > >> >
> > >> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I
> > >> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and
thought it
> > >> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I
> > walked
> > >> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People
> > tell me
> > >> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming.
I
> > also
> > >> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet.
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >Scott Bilinski
> > >Eng dept 305
> > >Phone (858) 657-2536
> > >Pager (858) 502-5190
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Selling some more stuff |
Looking to clear up a bit of junk in the shop;
RV-8 Orndorf Videos for Wing, Fuselage, Finish Kit.......1/2 current li$t
Still have 5" wheels, tires,tubes,brakes,axles,nuts unused...1/2 current li$t
Probably have the wheel pants to go too ....ditto
Exhaust for 0-320 (The "cheap" straight pipe - aircraft spruce type, not new but
never used) I would not put this on an RV! ...be$t offer
C-180 /185 ski axles and bolts (don't ask) perfect shape .....1/2 li$t
Citabria or Cub Tail Ski .......no idea...best offer
You pay freight.
Call me
867-667-3406
867-667-1821
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Cement rubber to canopy |
hello all,
I want to cement a rubber moulding to the front of my slider canopy
(RV-8) to make a rain seal. What glue is available that won't craze the
plastic? Since its a quickbuild I didn't need Proseal and don't have any
about the shop.
Jim Bean
"Finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MStudio828(at)aol.com |
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
2002, RV-8, 200 TT, 180 HP Lycoming O-360, Sensenich 85" alum prop, day-night
VFR, Garmin mode C w/encoder, Garmin 295 color GPS, A-200 com, CD player,
stero intercom, always hangered.
Inquire off list
Larry
MStudio828(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alfredo Santoro" <alfredo.santoro(at)poste.it> |
Hello, everybody.
I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something that
I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met.
I asked him suggestions about building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do
as soon as possible. (Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to
purchase).
He was busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or
little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure I
understood it well.
Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which I love and had enjoyed
a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8, instead, because of the
different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it.
He said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the structure
stronger, expecially in aerobatics.
Is anybody of you able to explain me the differences among the two, and confirm
me this thesis?
Thank you very much.
Alfredo Santoro
Rome, Italy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Alfredo,
The RV-4 structure is not riveted in a different manner, but the RV-8 kit
comes to you with many of the part already drilled so that the parts match.
This saves a great deal of time for the builder. I built a RV-6A in which
all parts measured and marked by the builder (Me!) before riveting. I am
building a RV-8 which is pre-drilled for the most part. The time saved is
astonishing.
The newer designs from Van's Aircraft are for computer-aided cutting,
shaping and drilling machines - the RV-7, RV-7A and RV-9 and RV-9A designs
have even more of the parts pre-drilled than the RV-8.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alfredo Santoro
Subject: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs
-->
Hello, everybody.
I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something
that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. I asked him suggestions about
building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do as soon as possible.
(Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to purchase). He was
busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or
little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure I
understood it well. Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which
I love and had enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8,
instead, because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. He
said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the
structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. Is anybody of you able to
explain me the differences among the two, and confirm me this thesis?
Thank you very much.
Alfredo Santoro
Rome, Italy.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rivets on RVs |
I built an 8a and have no experience with the 4. As far as I know, the 8 is
only stronger by design not rivets. Matter of fact the factory to me you
could take out 1/3rd of the rivets in an RV-8 and it would still meet the
structural requirements of +6 -4 g's
>
>Hello, everybody.
>I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something
>that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met.
>I asked him suggestions about building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming
>to do as soon as possible. (Well, I am still at the decision phase about
>what kit to purchase).
>He was busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a
>tourist or little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I
>am not sure I understood it well.
>Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which I love and had
>enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8, instead,
>because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it.
>He said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes
>the structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics.
>Is anybody of you able to explain me the differences among the two, and
>confirm me this thesis?
>
>Thank you very much.
>
>Alfredo Santoro
>Rome, Italy.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip |
Finally made the cut...canopy that is and thought I would pass on this tip that
might help you in measuring the rivet hole
locations on the canopy frame for both the canopy and the canopy skirt. If this
is only news to me, my apologies.
Problem:
The canopy frame is made from round tubing. I hate round tubing! Where do you drill?
Well....
Canopy Skirt:
Take a flat strip of thin aluminum that has been laying around awhile. Next, lay
it across the canopy frame to simulate the
skirt so that it touches as many spots as possible on the fuselage side, frame
ribs, etc
Now the trick...Press down and move the aluminum strip around in a circular motion
maintaining that position. The corrosion
on the aluminum rubs off onto the frame tubing. Now stand back and you will see
a perfect line on the tubing indicating the
exact location where the canopy skirt will touch the canopy frame tubing.
Canopy itself:
This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is different from the
skirt. The way you handle this is to put
the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one stationary
to protect the canopy and the moveable
piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark exactly where
the canopy will touch the canopy frame
tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need someone inside,
but it beats guessing!
I am hoping that the more accurate placement of the holes will help prevent cracking
and give a more precise rivet line.
Time will tell.
Regards
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID USA
RV-8 VSB (Very Slow Built) Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip |
> Canopy itself:
> This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is
> different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put
> the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one
> stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable
> piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark
> exactly where the canopy will touch the canopy frame
> tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need
> someone inside, but it beats guessing!
Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of the rivet
location. You will see a faint contact line form where the canopy
rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on this line and
perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the windscreen as well as the
canopy.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip |
I put a thin film of oil on the frame while doing this. It really made the
contact line stand out.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Daniels [mailto:jwdanie(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 10:14 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
>
>
> > Canopy itself:
> > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is
> > different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put
> the canopy
> > in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one
> stationary
> > to protect the canopy and the moveable piece between it and
> the frame;
> > move the aluminum around to mark exactly where the canopy
> will touch
> > the canopy frame tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little
> > tougher...need someone inside, but it beats guessing!
>
> Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of
> the rivet location. You will see a faint contact line form
> where the canopy rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on
> this line and perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the
> windscreen as well as the canopy.
>
> Jim Daniels
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip |
I think the way I like the best is; Put masking tape on the tubing, lightly
clamp the plexi to the frame, Then remove some of the clamps in a local
area, slide a piece of carbon paper (remember that stuff!) between plexi and
taped frame, tap plexi with fingertips and voila! you have a distinct
contact line on the tubing,. Just lay out your hole spacing and centerpunch
right on the line. This is quick, easy, and almost eliminates the crack
danger of setting a rivit or screw in a hole slightly off the contact line.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
>
> Finally made the cut...canopy that is and thought I would pass on this tip
> that might help you in measuring the rivet hole
> locations on the canopy frame for both the canopy and the canopy skirt. If
> this is only news to me, my apologies.
>
> Problem:
> The canopy frame is made from round tubing. I hate round tubing! Where do
> you drill?
>
> Well....
>
> Canopy Skirt:
> Take a flat strip of thin aluminum that has been laying around awhile.
> Next, lay it across the canopy frame to simulate the
> skirt so that it touches as many spots as possible on the fuselage side,
> frame ribs, etc
>
> Now the trick...Press down and move the aluminum strip around in a
> circular motion maintaining that position. The corrosion
> on the aluminum rubs off onto the frame tubing. Now stand back and you
> will see a perfect line on the tubing indicating the
> exact location where the canopy skirt will touch the canopy frame tubing.
>
> Canopy itself:
> This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is different
> from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put
> the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one
> stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable
> piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark exactly
> where the canopy will touch the canopy frame
> tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need someone
> inside, but it beats guessing!
>
> I am hoping that the more accurate placement of the holes will help
> prevent cracking and give a more precise rivet line.
>
> Time will tell.
>
> Regards
> Vince Himsl
> Moscow, ID USA
> RV-8 VSB (Very Slow Built) Finish
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alfredo Santoro" <alfredo.santoro(at)poste.it> |
Subject: | Re: Rivets on RVs |
Oh, I see..
That is good information.
Thank you very much, Stephen and Scott for your explanation!
Alfredo.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs
> Alfredo,
>
> The RV-4 structure is not riveted in a different manner, but the RV-8 kit
> comes to you with many of the part already drilled so that the parts
> match.
> This saves a great deal of time for the builder. I built a RV-6A in which
> all parts measured and marked by the builder (Me!) before riveting. I am
> building a RV-8 which is pre-drilled for the most part. The time saved is
> astonishing.
>
> The newer designs from Van's Aircraft are for computer-aided cutting,
> shaping and drilling machines - the RV-7, RV-7A and RV-9 and RV-9A designs
> have even more of the parts pre-drilled than the RV-8.
>
> Stephen Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alfredo Santoro
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 10:07 AM
> To: RV 8 List
> Subject: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs
>
>
> -->
>
> Hello, everybody.
> I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something
> that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. I asked him suggestions
> about
> building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do as soon as possible.
> (Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to purchase). He
> was
> busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or
> little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure
> I
> understood it well. Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4
> (which
> I love and had enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV
> 8,
> instead, because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. He
> said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the
> structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. Is anybody of you able to
> explain me the differences among the two, and confirm me this thesis?
>
> Thank you very much.
>
> Alfredo Santoro
> Rome, Italy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Daniels" <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
>
> > Canopy itself:
> > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is
> > different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put
> > the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one
> > stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable
> > piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark
> > exactly where the canopy will touch the canopy frame
> > tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need
> > someone inside, but it beats guessing!
>
> Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of the rivet
> location. You will see a faint contact line form where the canopy
> rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on this line and
> perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the windscreen as well as the
> canopy.
>
> Jim Daniels
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Subject: | Battery box on QB 8 |
Couple of questions on the battery box. I'm working on a QB fuselage and the plans
tell me to install the battery tray after I've done the cabin side covers
and before the arm rests. Am I missing the logic in installing the battery tray
at this point? I'm not sure why the plans have you jump from the cabin to the
firewall and back to the cabin.
I was also wondering about the battery tray itself. I've read on one of the lists
that it's better to install the regular size tray even if you plan on an Odyssey
battery. You can pad the tray for the smaller battery, but if it craps out
away from home base you can replace it with a standard battery to get home.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
b...
Ken, if you are installing a constant speed prop, you'll want to hold off on
the battery tray until you do a weight and balance to see where you're gonna
put the battery - on the firewall or aft of the rear luggage compartment. If
you aren't using a constant speed prop it really doesn't matter when you build
the battery box.
I built the standard battery box in my RV-8A and used some hardwood shims to
make my odyssey battery fit.
Hope this helps.
Walt Shipley RV-8A 125 hrs. RV-8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Berg" <wfberg(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Battery box on QB 8 |
You can build in any order you want. It's your airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way that would
allow removal of the gear legs?
I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some type of
a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through.
Ideas?
Doug Ripley
N821DT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Swapping Gear |
Doug,
I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their
choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there.
Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one.
Cheers, Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way
that would allow removal of the gear legs?
>
> I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some
type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Doug Ripley
> N821DT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Swapping Gear |
Why not use a sling on the motor mount attachments at the fire wall. Use a
come-a-long from the hangar rafters or an engine hoist.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Marshall" <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
>
> Doug,
> I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their
> choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there.
>
> Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one.
> Cheers, Pete
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
> To: "RV8-List Digest Server"
> Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way
> that would allow removal of the gear legs?
> >
> > I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some
> type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through.
> >
> > Ideas?
> >
> > Doug Ripley
> > N821DT
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
The way you described is the way I supported my fuselage to install the gear legs
in my quickbuild. The tail was installed, so I could not invert the fuselage.
I used the shipping supports installed in the spar center section attached
to an H frame that I made and made a support for the tail that adjusted for
height to level the whole thing. Drilling the holes for the gear legs and saddles
was not fun.--- On Wed 10/20, Doug Ripley dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com wrote:
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Doug,
Good to hear that you succeeded in this approach. I am planning (carefully)
to support the right-side-up QB fuselage and install the gear legs from
below. I am glad to hear the you did it successfully. Any tips to offer
about aligning the gear legs with the centerline of the fuselage? I think
that it will be easier to get the gear lined up with this approach, than if
the fuselage is inverted and the gear is sticking up in the air.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying and
N222SZ RV-8 in the increasing cold garage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Dominy
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
The way you described is the way I supported my fuselage to install the
gear legs in my quickbuild. The tail was installed, so I could not invert
the fuselage. I used the shipping supports installed in the spar center
section attached to an H frame that I made and made a support for the tail
that adjusted for height to level the whole thing. Drilling the holes for
the gear legs and saddles was not fun.--- On Wed 10/20, Doug Ripley
dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com wrote:
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Wow - I found that installing the gear legs with the fuselage
on its back was challenging enough - I can't imagine the pain
of doing it from underneath. My recommendation is to try to
flip the fuselage.
>Good to hear that you succeeded in this approach. I am planning (carefully)
>to support the right-side-up QB fuselage and install the gear legs from
>below. I am glad to hear the you did it successfully. Any tips to offer
>about aligning the gear legs with the centerline of the fuselage? I think
>that it will be easier to get the gear lined up with this approach, than if
>the fuselage is inverted and the gear is sticking up in the air.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Swapping Gear |
Be careful if you jack the wing up by the bolts in the tiedown fixtures.
This is very close to the balance point of the aircraft and it may tip over
on to the the nose damaging the prop. One side is OK. both is riskey.
Paul
808PS flying.
>From: Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
>Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 22:54:28 -0700
>
>
>Doug,
>I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their
>choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there.
>
>Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one.
>Cheers, Pete
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
>To: "RV8-List Digest Server"
>Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear
>
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way
>that would allow removal of the gear legs?
> >
> > I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some
>type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through.
> >
> > Ideas?
> >
> > Doug Ripley
> > N821DT
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George
Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-8 list
From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801)
Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any
idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but
I've thought that before.
RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: Unknown part |
Only things listed on "The List" starting with WH are;
WH SM35-1/2-9X0.75P15 SHRINK LABEL P15
WH-P10 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08
WH-P11 #2 ELEC.CABLE 34.25" $17.52
WH-P15 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.75" $10.17
WH-P16 #2 ELEC.CABLE 30" $8.35
WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25" $19.25
WH-P18 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08
WH-P19 #2 ELEC.CABLE 9.25" $7.81
WH-P4 #2 ELEC.CABLE 127.25" $38.00
WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75" $7.13
WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11" $8.35
WH-P6 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11.75" $8.72
Did this come with a landing light kit or something? What does it look like?
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed OConnor" <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: RV-List: Unknown part
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor
>
> Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801)
> Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any
> idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but
> I've thought that before.
>
> RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
listers,
Is there any opinion about which way the wing bolts should be installed,
with the nuts forward or aft of the spar?
Jim Bean
"finishing"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Jim, the general rule, as you probably know, is bolt head forward, nut aft.
But you may find it's easier to install some of the bolts the opposite
direction, and this according to Van's support is ok.
Walt Shipley
RV-8A N314TS 130hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/29/2004 8:37:41 PM Central Standard Time,
RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com writes:
> is bolt head forward, nut aft.
>
I would be interested in the rational of "head forward and nut aft."
I have a hard time believing it makes a difference.
BClary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
It's bolt in, down and aft. The rational is that if the nut backs off the
bolt will have some gravitational force keeping it in place. I believe that
this goes back to taildragger days. It is only a suggestion and really
doesn't make much difference other than giving a methodology to construction
and the slight advantage of the bolt perhaps staying in place with the nut
off. Feel free to deviate if it makes construction easier.
Paul
>From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Wing Bolts
>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 22:31:24 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 10/29/2004 8:37:41 PM Central Standard Time,
>RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com writes:
>
> > is bolt head forward, nut aft.
> >
>
>I would be interested in the rational of "head forward and nut aft."
>I have a hard time believing it makes a difference.
>
>BClary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Jim,
No difference as far as shear loads on the bolts. For my -8, assembling
nuts on front side of spar due to plumbing and space limitations interfering
with 7/16" bolts from front. Your experience and results may differ.
Jack
wiring, etc.
From: Jim Bean;jim-bean(at)att.net
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Wing Bolts
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 20:51:32 -0400
RV8-List message posted by: Jim Bean; jim-bean(at)att.net
listers,
Is there any opinion about which way the wing bolts should be installed,
with the nuts forward or aft of the spar?
Jim Bean
finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero Designs markets
their RV8 seats with the following statement "To improve comfort in the
front seat, a new backrest has been designed. The backrest consists of a chromoly
frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an automotive seat. The
unique design of the frame moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding
provides a slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the passenger's
knees."
http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com
Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's seat width
other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, is this mod to the
normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if it's a "heavy" seat. I've
never seen any of their work that I know of.
Thanks,
Lucky
I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero Designs markets
their RV8 seats with the following statement "To improve comfort in the
front seat, a new backrest has been designed. The backrest consists of a chromoly
frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an automotive seat. The
unique design of the frame moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding
provides a slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the passenger's
knees."
http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com
Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's seat width
other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, is this mod to the
normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if it's a "heavy" seat. I've
never seen any of their work that I know of.
Thanks,
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> |
Lucky,
I have a set of their seats and they are very comfortable. The
internal frame back rest might be a little heavier, but the comfort
level makes it more than worth it. It attaches to the same hinge that
Van uses and at least for me, (6' 3") the legroom came out perfectly.
The quality of the materials and workmanship are excellent. I think
you will be more than satisfied.
Joel Harding
On Oct 30, 2004, at 1:47 PM, lucky wrote:
>
> I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero
> Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To
> improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed.
> The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by
> the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame
> moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a
> slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the
> passenger's knees."
> http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com
> Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's
> seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't,
> is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if
> it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know
> of.
> Thanks,
> Lucky
>
> I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero
> Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To
> improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed.
> The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by
> the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame
> moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a
> slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the
> passenger's knees."
> http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com
> Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's
> seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't,
> is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if
> it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know of.
> Thanks,
> Lucky
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Rear Seat Heat Revisited |
Guys, some time back I asked if anyone had installed rear seat heat in their
8's. It seems that very few have gone this route. Personally I would prefer
not doing this, because it entails cutting holes through structures such as
the gear tower. But, I'm in a partnership, and my partner really has his
sights on heat for the passenger area.
My question to those of you living in colder climates is, have you really
felt the need for heat in back IF the cabin is well sealed against air leaks? I
might add that we will have dual heat muffs providing heat to the cabin.
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Heat Revisited |
From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net> |
Yes. SE Idaho gets cold anyway and we're often flying above 10K feet due
to mountains--dual heat tries to keep the cabin warmish from the waist
down, but often is not enough, especially on overcast days and up in the
teens of altitude in winter.
I have dual heat muffs and firewall mounted flapper valve boxes. One
dumps on pilots feet, the other dumps on the pax left foot pocket via 2"
SCAT. The SCAT is tied to the left pilot seat ramp, routes straight back
to the firewall inboard on the fuel switch, along the left gear tower
and back along the fuel line forward of the gear tower. I mounted the
transponder onto the left gear tower too and the SCAT runs just below it
so it doesn't really seem to stick out as it goes by the gear tower.
Plenty of room, no interference with rudder pedals, and simple to
install. Only problem is sealing it in summer, the flapper valve boxes
mounted on firewall don't seal closed well and pax's complain about
hot-foot...Anyone have a fix for that?
Cheers,
Greg Miller, 400 hrs, 4 yrs, RV8 N89GM
On Sat, 2004-11-06 at 02:12, RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys, some time back I asked if anyone had installed rear seat heat in their
> 8's. It seems that very few have gone this route. Personally I would prefer
> not doing this, because it entails cutting holes through structures such as
> the gear tower. But, I'm in a partnership, and my partner really has his
> sights on heat for the passenger area.
>
> My question to those of you living in colder climates is, have you really
> felt the need for heat in back IF the cabin is well sealed against air leaks?
I
> might add that we will have dual heat muffs providing heat to the cabin.
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin |
Good Morning,
This question is about the RV-8 quick build fuselage. When drilling the
F821PP top skin to the forward left side (just aft of the firewall) into the
longeron and WD-802-L weldment, should the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in the
F820-PP-L skin be drilled out? Should the two AN426AD3-6 keeper rivets be
drilled out? How should the F821PP top skin be attached to the underlying
WD802-L weldment in this area? Should I drill two or three #40 holes for
rivets between the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in place.
Can't find the answer on the plans.
Stephen Soule
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | IO snorkle to cowl baffle? |
-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle,
Installation Instructions with the above snorkle induction system are very
sparce and with illustrations no help to me in mating the snorkle in the
area of Van's cowl baffle part 3 (forward left front side). An example of
some confusion, the top left side of the snorkle is about an inch further
outboard than the forward projecting cowl baffle part 3. Does anyone have
more info, drawings, measurments and/or photos to clarify this area?
Examples of how others solved the marriage of the snorkle (with filter) to
this baffling will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack,
Red Wing, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
RV-8 List,
I am starting to have intermittent operation with my flap motor and sometime
back I remember some posts on a new design or replacement motor and some
temporary fixes for the older motors. Anyone else out there been through
this issue.
Having flap problems after 65 hours,
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback
N525TC
________________________________________________________________________________
It is excess grease that has worked its way into the brushes. Disassemble
and degrease, reassemble and it should be just fine. Those brushes are fun
though!
>
>
>RV-8 List,
>I am starting to have intermittent operation with my flap motor and sometime
>back I remember some posts on a new design or replacement motor and some
>temporary fixes for the older motors. Anyone else out there been through
>this issue.
>Having flap problems after 65 hours,
>Tom Clark
>RV-8 Fastback
>N525TC
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: IO snorkle to cowl baffle? |
Ah....Good One!!! What type of engine are you using? If you are using
the 200Hp IO360 from Vans, then it should fit according to the
instructions. If, like me, you have the 180Hp Io360 (M1B) from Vans,
then you need to be a little creative. The difference is that the
snorkel is designed for the 1" wider deck on the 200Hp engine. I did a
combination of cutting and reglassing about 3/4" of the outboard top
side of the snorkel and making some changes to the baffle. I added an
aluminum doubler to the bottom of the baffle floor that was wider than
the actual floor. I then added a piece of angle to the outboard side of
the baffle side wall for the outboard baffle to snorkel attach bolts to
go through. Last, I cut out the hole for the snorkel (which ends up
being slightly smaller than the actual orifice) and drilled holes that
go through the baffle floor into nutplates on those angles spelled out
by the instructions. I know a picture is worth a thousand words here
(esp with the incredibly straight forward baffling process). Contact me
off the list, and I'll see what I have.
Jon Weiswasser
RV-8, N898JW
50h
jonweisw at rcn.com
Jack Blomgren wrote:
>
>-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle,
>
>Installation Instructions with the above snorkle induction system are very
>sparce and with illustrations no help to me in mating the snorkle in the
>area of Van's cowl baffle part 3 (forward left front side). An example of
>some confusion, the top left side of the snorkle is about an inch further
>outboard than the forward projecting cowl baffle part 3. Does anyone have
>more info, drawings, measurments and/or photos to clarify this area?
>Examples of how others solved the marriage of the snorkle (with filter) to
>this baffling will be much appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jack,
>Red Wing, MN
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/10/04 |
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com
Hello all,
I am looking for a tail wheel instructor for a friend at either Corona CA or
Fullerton CA. this individual is a Student Pilot with a newly purchased Cessna
170A. Bill is 40 yrs old, self employed and has had a bit of trouble locating
a CFI with Cessna 170 time to work with him.
let me know if you know of someone off list please, n22607(at)aol.com
Thanks in advance
Joe Gauthier
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | GRT fuel flow sendor accuracy |
I have an 8A 180 horse carb with the GRT fuel flow sensor and an EIS. It's mounted
on the engine side of the firewall, no heat shield, and with 150 hours, no
problem with it working. Now, for accuracy. The installation instructions
specifies a five inch length of straight fuel line before the sensor and a one
or two inch straight line after the sensor. We installed mine according to instructions.
Then you have to fly several tanks of fuel to figure out the flocal
setting.
Mine always shows a higher fuel consumption than actual (that's better than showing
more fuel than actual). Mine shows about 3 gallons less than actually used
per tank full. Not too bad, but I wish it were more acurate than that.
I noticed early on that the fuel flow reading would always go up with the fuel
pump on, and go down when I turned it off. I spoke to Greg (GRT) about this and
he stated I needed to install a dampener in the line before the sensor. I
have all metal fuel lines and this is part of the problem with the pulses from
the pump causing the variations. As yet, I have not installed the dampener but
instead use the electric fuel pump as little as possible. I keep in mind the
difference in flow readings and actual use that I know is there (it has been
pretty consistent). I am curious to know if the dampener will also produce
more acurate flow readings overall, and then bring the "fuel remaining" reading
more in line with actual use. Too busy flying I guess or I'd have it done.
I also have Van's float type fuel gages. Mine are very accurate when sitting on
the ground engine off. They are pretty accurate in the air, although they move
around a bit when flying, even in smooth air (expected of course). I originally
wanted the flow meter as a more accurate back up to the gages, and I'm
still glad I got it. But I have come to trust the Vans gages and I haven't been
disappointed yet. I use the fuel gages and the "fuel remaining" reading of
the EIS as a cross check on each other. The other thing I like is seeing the
flow rate go down when I lean. It gives me a sort of sense of accomplishment,
like I'm saving some money, but at nearly 3 bucks a gallon, the fuel bills still
sting just the same. Oh well. You know what a hobby is? Something you
spend more time and more money on than you should, but you love it anyway.
Bottom line - I like the EIS flow meter and the Vans gages.
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Dynon remote compasses |
Hi,
Where are guys putting the Dynon remote compasses? I have seen in the tail and
on the wing access panels but haven't heard of how well they work. Anyone
out there with a system working on a -8?
Thanks,
John Porter
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dynon remote compasses |
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
My in-the-wing compass module is working well. Haven't calibrated it yet,
but it's within 3 degrees.
I understand the compass module has to be exchanged if upgrading to the
d-10A. Is that true?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
John Porter said:
>
> Hi,
> Where are guys putting the Dynon remote compasses? I have seen in the
> tail and on the wing access panels but haven't heard of how well they
> work. Anyone out there with a system working on a -8?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Porter
>
>
> _-=====================================================================
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> _-> _-=====================================================================
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_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Wing Jig Available Now |
Some time ago I agreed to sell my wing/empennage jig to someone in El Paso,
with avaiability "...about Thanksgiving time."
I'm finished with it now, but I've lost the name and phone number of the
person who wanted it. If you're out there and still need it, please contact
me off-line at (972) 250-2906 or e-mail at aeronut58(at)hotmail.com
George Kilishek
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin |
Hello all,
I sent this to Van's as well as to the list. Their reply was that the 4-7
rivets had been installed in error by the quick build folks. I am to drill
them out, leaving only the keeper rivets and proceed to back drill the holes
in the F820 top skin.
Keep building.
Stephen Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule
Subject: RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin
Good Morning,
This question is about the RV-8 quick build fuselage. When drilling the
F821PP top skin to the forward left side (just aft of the firewall) into the
longeron and WD-802-L weldment, should the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in the
F820-PP-L skin be drilled out? Should the two AN426AD3-6 keeper rivets be
drilled out? How should the F821PP top skin be attached to the underlying
WD802-L weldment in this area? Should I drill two or three #40 holes for
rivets between the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in place.
Can't find the answer on the plans.
Stephen Soule
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Microair transponder and Dynon D-10A |
Hi,
Has anyone matched these two units up? With the Dynon serial transponder data,
do you have to purchase a separate encoder? I will contact Microair again.
Thanks.
John Porter
#80002
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
Subject: | Re: Microair transponder and Dynon D-10A |
John,
Unless they've recently changed the T2000 transponder you'll need another encoder.
The transponder only takes the parallel code and the D10A only outputs a serial
signal.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:24:12 -0800
>
>Hi,
> Has anyone matched these two units up? With the Dynon serial transponder data,
do you have to purchase a separate encoder? I will contact Microair again.
Thanks.
>
>John Porter
>#80002
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Elevator Range of Motion/ Control Horn Interference |
From: | "Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com> |
I am in the process of establishing my elevator control stops and have
run into a clearance issue when trying to get the required "up" elevator
adjustment. The elevator control horn is hitting the aft-most bulkhead
before I am getting to the required 25 degree up travel. Have any of
you experienced the same, and if so, is it ok to remove a little bit of
the control horn in order to get the horn to bottom out on the control
stop instead of the bulkhead?
Don Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Elevator Range of Motion/ Control Horn Interference |
Don, I had the same problem with my 8 and my 8A. I had to not only trim the
aft edges of the control horn but also had to trim back the control stop. As
it is, I'm only getting about 26.5 degrees of up travel. This is in the range
but I would have been happier if I could have gotten closer to 30 degrees.
Walt Shipley RV-8A flying RV-8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
Subject: | fuel flow sensor install & io-360 |
Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on
a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see
installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed
per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward
due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight
runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers?
:-)
Thanks in advance,
Luckyy
Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on
a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing
one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed
per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward
due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight
runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers?
:-)
Thanks in advance,
Luckyy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Insurance Cancellation |
FYI, Phoenix Aviation Managers of Dallas, TX cancelled my builders insurance
due to "poor loss experience" with RVs. I plan to never use that company
again for any type of aircraft.
The broker, NationAir Insurance Agency, is working to find other insurance
underwriters.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | fuel flow sensor install & io-360 |
I am thinking through this one myself, since I have the same setup. I am
considering not installing the flow meter at all, since I think it
really is not necessary for my type of flying. I had one in my RV-9A, it
was a neat toy but I still relied more on the float senders, and the
fuel pressure.
Kevin Shannon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV8-List: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow
sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or
two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure
fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a
way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing
I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more
clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-)
Thanks in advance,
Luckyy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | fuel flow sensor install & io-360 |
Luckyy
I installed mine by cutting a section out of the flexible line between the
FI servo and the mechanical fuel pump. The sensor rests in firesleeve on
the induction runners underneath the left cylinders. It's a standard Shadin
sensor and works great although I did have to change the K factor to get max
accuracy.
Paul Schattauer
RV8 808PS
>From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com (RV8 List)
>Subject: RV8-List: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
>Received: by and from look like IP addresses
>
>
>Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow
>sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two.
>I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump
>has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely'
>install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to
>get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has
>figure it out. Any takers? :-)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Luckyy
>
>Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow
>sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I
>can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump
>has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely'
>install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to
>get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has
>figure it out. Any takers? :-)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Luckyy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their
Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send
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Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few
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days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
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Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
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http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
Subject: | Re: [RV-8] Re: fuel flow sensor install & io-360 |
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
Thanks to all that replied. Here's what I ended up doing. Sensor is mounted on
bracket attached to fuse longeron. I can undo the input tube and put it right
back on the fuel pump if it ends up not working out. I can also add a dampener
if really needed.
-------------- Original message --------------
Hey Lucky
I doubt very much that I am more clever than you, but I did mount my
flow sensor on the engine side of the firewall. My high gascolator is
in the left wing root. Fuel comes into the selector, out the
gascolator, then froward to the hight pressure pump mounted just in
front of the left gear tower. I put a 90 deg fitting through the
firewall, then used about 4" of aluminmum tubing to go to the flow
sensor. From the other side of the sensor I used the flexible hose to
go to the mechanical pump.
There is a picture about 1/4 of the way down the page (the one of the
left side of the firewall showing the starter relay as well) that
shows the flow sensor and the 90 deg fitting.
http://rv8bldr.tripod.com/the_engine.html
My RMI uMonitor seems to show a steady flow, and I haven't had any
problems yet, mind you, I only have 9.7 hours so far ;-)
Cheers
Mark
80965
--- In RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, luckymacy(at)c... wrote:
> Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel
flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture
or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high
pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I
can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid
aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs.
Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-)
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Luckyy
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http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
Thanks to all that replied. Here's what I ended up doing. Sensor is mounted on
bracket attached to fuse longeron. I can undo the input tube and put it right
back on the fuel pump if it ends up not working out. I can also add a dampener
if really needed.
-------------- Original message --------------
Hey Lucky
I doubt very much that I am more clever than you, but I did mount my
flow sensor on the engine side of the firewall. My high gascolator is
in the left wing root. Fuel comes into the selector, out the
gascolator, then froward to the hight pressure pump mounted just in
front of the left gear tower. I put a 90 deg fitting through the
firewall, then used about 4" of aluminmum tubing to go to the flow
sensor. From the other side of the sensor I used the flexible hose to
go to the mechanical pump.
There is a picture about 1/4 of the way down the page (the one of the
left side of the firewall showing the starter relay as well) that
shows the flow sensor and the 90 deg fitting.
http://rv8bldr.tripod.com/the_engine.h
tml
My RMI uMonitor seems to show a steady flow, and I haven't had any
problems yet, mind you, I only have 9.7 hours so far ;-)
Cheers
Mark
80965
--- In RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, luckymacy(at)c... wrote:
Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel
flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture
or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high
pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I
can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid
aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs.
Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-)
Thanks in advance,
Luckyy
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | Van's electric tachometer |
RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4 in electric
tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any has been your experience
with these tachometers. Thanks very much....Rod Daulton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> |
Subject: | Van's electric tachometer |
I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I
purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar
with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose
that is actually what my problem is??
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton
Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer
RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4
in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any
has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very
much....Rod Daulton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Van's electric tachometer |
Interesting....I had a failure at about 30h. Have 35h on the new one
without problem. how many hours did you get out of each of your senders
before they failed?
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
RV-8
Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>
>I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I
>purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar
>with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose
March 30, 2004 - December 05, 2004
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ag