RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ap
March 14, 2010 - June 15, 2010
> touchy.
> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
> intending
> to power the headsets with it.
> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
> trim
> indicator supply at 14 volts.
> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
> thing.
> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
> volt
> supply but it does work.
> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
> on
> the back of the package.
> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
> Jim Bean
> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
> From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
>
>
> Cool idea, but couldn't you just install a rheostat to throttle back on the
> voltage
> to the trim system instead of putting in another lower voltage system? This
> way you could have the speed trim and the fine trim. Does your low voltage
> system make it easier to trim out in cruise?
> ------Original Message------
> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
> Sent: Mar 13, 2010 12:07 PM
>
>
> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
> touchy.
> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
> intending
> to power the headsets with it.
> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
> trim
> indicator supply at 14 volts.
> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
> thing.
> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
> volt
> supply but it does work.
> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
> on
> the back of the package.
> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
> Jim Bean
> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/13/10 |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net> |
There are two systems on the market that slow down the trim motor at higher
air speeds. (I find this to be a problem with all of the normal
installations.)
Both use an airspeed sensor.
One is part of a box that makes wiring the airplane simpler and the other is
by TCW Technologies: www.tcwtech.com
Both available from Steinair.com
Martin Sobel
RV-8 Wings
On 3/14/10 4:59 AM, "RV8-List Digest Server" wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
> 010-03-13&Archive=RV8
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
> 10-03-13&Archive=RV8
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 03/13/10: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:23 PM - Slowing down the trim (jimbean6(at)verizon.net)
> 2. 02:45 PM - Re: Slowing down the trim (cs(at)charlesstringham.com)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>
>
> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
> touchy.
> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
> intending
> to power the headsets with it.
> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
> trim
> indicator supply at 14 volts.
> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
> thing.
> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
> volt
> supply but it does work.
> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
> on
> the back of the package.
> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
> Jim Bean
> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
> From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
>
>
> Cool idea, but couldn't you just install a rheostat to throttle back on the
> voltage
> to the trim system instead of putting in another lower voltage system? This
> way you could have the speed trim and the fine trim. Does your low voltage
> system make it easier to trim out in cruise?
> ------Original Message------
> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
> Sent: Mar 13, 2010 12:07 PM
>
>
> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
> touchy.
> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
> intending
> to power the headsets with it.
> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
> trim
> indicator supply at 14 volts.
> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
> thing.
> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
> volt
> supply but it does work.
> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
> on
> the back of the package.
> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
> Jim Bean
> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim servo speed control |
Matt Dralle at Matronics also sells a trim servo speed governor.
http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm
chris stone
RV-8
Oregon
-----Original Message-----
>From: Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Mar 14, 2010 1:22 PM
>To: RV8-List Digest Server , RV8-List Digest List
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/13/10
>
>
>There are two systems on the market that slow down the trim motor at higher
>air speeds. (I find this to be a problem with all of the normal
>installations.)
>
>Both use an airspeed sensor.
>
>One is part of a box that makes wiring the airplane simpler and the other is
>by TCW Technologies: www.tcwtech.com
>
>Both available from Steinair.com
>
>Martin Sobel
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
>On 3/14/10 4:59 AM, "RV8-List Digest Server" wrote:
>
>> *
>>
>> =================================================
>> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>> =================================================
>>
>> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
>> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>>
>> HTML Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
>> 010-03-13&Archive=RV8
>>
>> Text Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
>> 10-03-13&Archive=RV8
>>
>>
>> ===============================================
>> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ===============================================
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> RV8-List Digest Archive
>> ---
>> Total Messages Posted Sat 03/13/10: 2
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Today's Message Index:
>> ----------------------
>>
>> 1. 12:23 PM - Slowing down the trim (jimbean6(at)verizon.net)
>> 2. 02:45 PM - Re: Slowing down the trim (cs(at)charlesstringham.com)
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 1
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>>
>>
>> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
>> touchy.
>> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
>> intending
>> to power the headsets with it.
>> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
>> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
>> trim
>> indicator supply at 14 volts.
>> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
>> thing.
>> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
>> volt
>> supply but it does work.
>> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
>> on
>> the back of the package.
>> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
>> Jim Bean
>> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 2
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>> From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
>>
>>
>> Cool idea, but couldn't you just install a rheostat to throttle back on the
>> voltage
>> to the trim system instead of putting in another lower voltage system? This
>> way you could have the speed trim and the fine trim. Does your low voltage
>> system make it easier to trim out in cruise?
>> ------Original Message------
>> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>> Sent: Mar 13, 2010 12:07 PM
>>
>>
>> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
>> touchy.
>> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
>> intending
>> to power the headsets with it.
>> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
>> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
>> trim
>> indicator supply at 14 volts.
>> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
>> thing.
>> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
>> volt
>> supply but it does work.
>> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
>> on
>> the back of the package.
>> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
>> Jim Bean
>> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Trim servo speed control |
If you have the trim controlled via a hat switch on the control stick, you might
like the way it responds. I find trim is quick, but like everything else on
the RV8, quick is good. Panel mounted trim control with the supplied switches
may be another story.
Vince Himsl
RV8 Flying 44 hours
Washington
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone
Sent: March 15, 2010 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Trim servo speed control
Matt Dralle at Matronics also sells a trim servo speed governor.
http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm
chris stone
RV-8
Oregon
-----Original Message-----
>From: Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Mar 14, 2010 1:22 PM
>To: RV8-List Digest Server , RV8-List Digest List
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/13/10
>
>
>There are two systems on the market that slow down the trim motor at higher
>air speeds. (I find this to be a problem with all of the normal
>installations.)
>
>Both use an airspeed sensor.
>
>One is part of a box that makes wiring the airplane simpler and the other is
>by TCW Technologies: www.tcwtech.com
>
>Both available from Steinair.com
>
>Martin Sobel
>RV-8 Wings
>
>
>On 3/14/10 4:59 AM, "RV8-List Digest Server" wrote:
>
>> *
>>
>> =================================================
>> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>> =================================================
>>
>> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
>> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>>
>> HTML Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
>> 010-03-13&Archive=RV8
>>
>> Text Version:
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
>> 10-03-13&Archive=RV8
>>
>>
>> ===============================================
>> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ===============================================
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> RV8-List Digest Archive
>> ---
>> Total Messages Posted Sat 03/13/10: 2
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Today's Message Index:
>> ----------------------
>>
>> 1. 12:23 PM - Slowing down the trim (jimbean6(at)verizon.net)
>> 2. 02:45 PM - Re: Slowing down the trim (cs(at)charlesstringham.com)
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 1
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>>
>>
>> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
>> touchy.
>> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
>> intending
>> to power the headsets with it.
>> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
>> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
>> trim
>> indicator supply at 14 volts.
>> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
>> thing.
>> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
>> volt
>> supply but it does work.
>> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
>> on
>> the back of the package.
>> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
>> Jim Bean
>> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 2
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>> From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
>>
>>
>> Cool idea, but couldn't you just install a rheostat to throttle back on the
>> voltage
>> to the trim system instead of putting in another lower voltage system? This
>> way you could have the speed trim and the fine trim. Does your low voltage
>> system make it easier to trim out in cruise?
>> ------Original Message------
>> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>> Sent: Mar 13, 2010 12:07 PM
>>
>>
>> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
>> touchy.
>> Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply
>> intending
>> to power the headsets with it.
>> Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
>> Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the
>> trim
>> indicator supply at 14 volts.
>> Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good
>> thing.
>> I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9
>> volt
>> supply but it does work.
>> For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list
>> on
>> the back of the package.
>> Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
>> Jim Bean
>> jimbean6(at)verizon.net
>> RV-8 81110 80 hours.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> |
I just finished the horizontal stabilizer a few minutes ago--at least, I hope I
did. One of the last processes is to buck the AN470 rivets on the front spar--the
ones that hold the center-most ribs (fore and aft) to the front spar itself
and the two extruded aluminum angle fittings. The rivets look good. I located
the manufactured heads directly over the extruded aluminum angle fittings.
When I finished, I noticed the rivet set had not been absolutely straight, which
resulted in smiles that encircle about 120 degrees of the extruded aluminum
angle fittings around the rivets. The depth is perhaps 10/1,000 of an inch. I
know how important the structural integrity of the extruded fittings are. The
smiles have very smooth edges. Is this okay? Thanks, Chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
These are easy to drill out and do over.
Recommend putting a couple of layers of masking tape on the rivet set. This
will prevent smiles. Replace the tape every third rivet or so.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 7:29 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Is this Okay?
I just finished the horizontal stabilizer a few minutes ago--at least, I
hope I did. One of the last processes is to buck the AN470 rivets on the
front spar--the ones that hold the center-most ribs (fore and aft) to the
front spar itself and the two extruded aluminum angle fittings. The rivets
look good. I located the manufactured heads directly over the extruded
aluminum angle fittings. When I finished, I noticed the rivet set had not
been absolutely straight, which resulted in smiles that encircle about 120
degrees of the extruded aluminum angle fittings around the rivets. The depth
is perhaps 10/1,000 of an inch. I know how important the structural
integrity of the extruded fittings are. The smiles have very smooth edges.
Is this okay? Thanks, Chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "E Stone" <estone(at)mchsi.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Grove Aluminum RV-8 Landing Gear Available |
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I have an extra set of Grove standard aluminum gear for an RV-8. New with hardware
kit included.
17 pounds lighter than Vans steel gear legs. Gun drilled brake lines.
Paid $1595, sell for $1400
http://www.groveaircraft.com/rv8.html
email f.dombroski at yahoo.com for pictures and questions.
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD Flying
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291134#291134
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sdc11836_470.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Is this Okay? |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
Chet, without seeing a pic of your work, you are the only one that can make a determination
on whether the smileys are OK or not. But as was mentioned, tape
helps reduce the chances of creating them. Another option I have learned about
is using Snap-Socs. They work great, are color coded for different size rivets,
and can be found at various places. I got mine at Brown Tool.
http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&txtSearch=snap+socs&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&ProductID=103
cs(at)charlesstringham.co wrote:
> I just finished the horizontal stabilizer a few minutes ago--at least, I hope
I did. One of the last processes is to buck the AN470 rivets on the front spar--the
ones that hold the center-most ribs (fore and aft) to the front spar itself
and the two extruded aluminum angle fittings. The rivets look good. I located
the manufactured heads directly over the extruded aluminum angle fittings.
When I finished, I noticed the rivet set had not been absolutely straight, which
resulted in smiles that encircle about 120 degrees of the extruded aluminum
angle fittings around the rivets. The depth is perhaps 10/1,000 of an inch.
I know how important the structural integrity of the extruded fittings are. The
smiles have very smooth edges. Is this okay? Thanks, Chet
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291136#291136
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Is this Okay? |
| From: | cs(at)charlesstringham.com |
Thanks guys for your responses. I just wanted to make sure I explained that the
smiles are in the aluminum of the angle brackets that hold the horiz stab to
the fuse, and not on the rivet heads. Do I need to hollow grind these? Will this
reduce the strength of these critical parts? Thanks, Chet
------Original Message------
From: N38CW
Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Is this Okay?
Sent: Mar 21, 2010 6:07 AM
Chet, without seeing a pic of your work, you are the only one that can make a determination
on whether the smileys are OK or not. But as was mentioned, tape
helps reduce the chances of creating them. Another option I have learned about
is using Snap-Socs. They work great, are color coded for different size rivets,
and can be found at various places. I got mine at Brown Tool.
http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&txtSearch=snap+socs&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&ProductID=103
cs(at)charlesstringham.co wrote:
> I just finished the horizontal stabilizer a few minutes ago--at least, I hope
I did. One of the last processes is to buck the AN470 rivets on the front spar--the
ones that hold the center-most ribs (fore and aft) to the front spar itself
and the two extruded aluminum angle fittings. The rivets look good. I located
the manufactured heads directly over the extruded aluminum angle fittings.
When I finished, I noticed the rivet set had not been absolutely straight, which
resulted in smiles that encircle about 120 degrees of the extruded aluminum
angle fittings around the rivets. The depth is perhaps 10/1,000 of an inch.
I know how important the structural integrity of the extruded fittings are. The
smiles have very smooth edges. Is this okay? Thanks, Chet
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291136#291136
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "E Stone" <estone(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this Okay? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear Fellow Builders, I need a angle of attack (AOA) probe for my RV. I
saw one on Chad Jensen's ? RV-7 that I liked, but he has not answered my
quary yet. Anybody know someone making these? Hope to hear from someone,
Bill RV-8a near done wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
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-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8a AOA Probe |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Fellow Builders, I need a angle of attack (AOA) probe for my RV. I saw
one on Chad Jensen's ? RV-7 that I liked, but he has not answered my quary yet.
Anybody know someone making these? Hope to hear from someone, Bill RV-8a near
done wiring
> --
I believe this is the link for the one that Chad is using...
http://www.liftreserve.com/
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291318#291318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8a AOA Probe |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Thanks Bill for the info. How's your building coming along? I'm close eno
ugh to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but even though the "still
need to get done" list is pretty short, I can work a whole weekend and se
em not to accomplish a damned thing. Really weird!. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: N38CW <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 4:50 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8a AOA Probe
aphillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
Dear Fellow Builders, I need a angle of attack (AOA) probe for my RV.
I saw
ne on Chad Jensen's ? RV-7 that I liked, but he has not answered my quary
yet.
nybody know someone making these? Hope to hear from someone, Bill RV-8a ne
ar
one wiring
--
believe this is the link for the one that Chad is using...
http://www.liftreserve.com/
--------
ill Settle
V-8 Fuselage
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291318#291318
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8a AOA Probe |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm just getting started on the fuselage. I'm planning on getting it done quicker
than I did the wings. If I don't, I'll probably be 110 by the time I get
this thing done.
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291385#291385
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear fellow builders, I notice that there is a seam gap located between th
e firewall and cowling on the sides where the attachment hinge pins separa
te. It is about six inches and about a half dozen rivet holes. I can see
riveting a plate there to help hold in air pressure or just make it look
nicer. What has other builders done? Hope to hear from you, Bill RV-8a ne
ar done
-----Original Message-----
From: N38CW <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 4:50 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8a AOA Probe
aphillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
Dear Fellow Builders, I need a angle of attack (AOA) probe for my RV.
I saw
ne on Chad Jensen's ? RV-7 that I liked, but he has not answered my quary
yet.
nybody know someone making these? Hope to hear from someone, Bill RV-8a ne
ar
one wiring
--
believe this is the link for the one that Chad is using...
http://www.liftreserve.com/
--------
ill Settle
V-8 Fuselage
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291318#291318
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
achment
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
A whole lot of work, but you can do what I did which is to lay down plastic
electrician tape around the firewall (thick enough to simulate the paint
thickness), then lay down fiberglass, and then transition with
micro-balloons and a lot (and I mean a lot) of sanding. Don't use blue
painter tape, just plain cheap (wal-mart is fine) plastic electrical tape. I
did this on the top and sides of the cowl; not so much underneath.
I also put a couple of tabs, nothing elaborate, at the bottom 'corners' of
the cowl.
Looks great, but it's a 'spent way toooooo much time on it' detour from the
prime directive - Get it done!
Why don't you first finish the RV with the universally approved final
inspection paint scheme (exposed aluminum and primer, gaps and all), then
with the pressure off, you can make the 'I have to do it' or not decision.
Regards,
VinceHimsl
RV8 N8432 Flying (46 hours)
Result
DSCN0983.JPG
The beginning
IM002902.JPG
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: March 24, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Seam Gap
Dear fellow builders, I notice that there is a seam gap located between the
firewall and cowling on the sides where the attachment hinge pins separate.
It is about six inches and about a half dozen rivet holes. I can see
riveting a plate there to help hold in air pressure or just make it look
nicer. What has other builders done? Hope to hear from you, Bill RV-8a near
done
-----Original Message-----
From: N38CW <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 4:50 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8a AOA Probe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear fellow builders, I notice that there is a seam gap located between th
e firewall and cowling on the sides where the attachment hinge pins separa
te. It is about six inches and about a half dozen rivet holes. I can see
riveting a plate there to help hold in air pressure or just make it look
nicer. What has other builders done? Hope to hear from you, Bill RV-8a ne
ar done
-----Original Message-----
From: N38CW <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 4:50 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8a AOA Probe
aphillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
Dear Fellow Builders, I need a angle of attack (AOA) probe for my RV.
I saw
ne on Chad Jensen's ? RV-7 that I liked, but he has not answered my quary
yet.
nybody know someone making these? Hope to hear from someone, Bill RV-8a ne
ar
one wiring
--
believe this is the link for the one that Chad is using...
http://www.liftreserve.com/
--------
ill Settle
V-8 Fuselage
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291318#291318
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
achment
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seam Gap |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Vince, I'm sorry I was unclear. The gap I'm concerned with is the area sho
wn on your second photo. That 5-6 inches between the upper cowl attachment
hinges and the lower side hinges. Note you can see inside the engine comp
artment through the seam. Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2010 4:47 pm
Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 Seam Gap
A whole lot of work, but you can do what I did which is to lay down plasti
c electrician tape around the firewall (thick enough to simulate the paint
thickness), then lay down fiberglass, and then transition with micro-ball
oons and a lot (and I mean a lot) of sanding. Don=99t use blue paint
er tape, just plain cheap (wal-mart is fine) plastic electrical tape. I di
d this on the top and sides of the cowl; not so much underneath.
I also put a couple of tabs, nothing elaborate, at the bottom =98cor
ners=99 of the cowl.
Looks great, but it=99s a =98spent way toooooo much time on it
=99 detour from the prime directive =93 Get it done!
Why don=99t you first finish the RV with the universally approved fi
nal inspection paint scheme (exposed aluminum and primer, gaps and all),
then with the pressure off, you can make the =98I have to do it
=99 or not decision.
Regards,
VinceHimsl
RV8 N8432 Flying (46 hours)
Result
The beginning
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: March 24, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Seam Gap
Dear fellow builders, I notice that there is a seam gap located between th
e firewall and cowling on the sides where the attachment hinge pins separa
te. It is about six inches and about a half dozen rivet holes. I can see
riveting a plate there to help hold in air pressure or just make it look
nicer. What has other builders done? Hope to hear from you, Bill RV-8a ne
ar done
-----Original Message-----
From: N38CW <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 4:50 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8a AOA Probe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing Around Engine Baffles... |
Dear Listers,
Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use?
About all I could find on ACS was this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
Feedback would be most appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <geezer02(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... |
Unfortunately if you are going to seal around the engine baffles to the engine
then it will be RED as you need a hight temp.
Louis
---- Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
>
> If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use?
>
> About all I could find on ACS was this:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
>
> At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
>
> Feedback would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <geezer02(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... |
Unfortunately if you are going to seal around the engine baffles to the engine
then it will be RED as you need a hight temp.
Louis
---- Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
>
> If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use?
>
> About all I could find on ACS was this:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
>
> At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
>
> Feedback would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Matt:
Absolutely use a sealant - anything you can do to keep those cooling breezes
flowing where they're supposed to flow, and not leak out uselessly through
holes, gaps and unsealed margins, helps keep that expensive engine cool and
happy. Take a long, analytical look at the cowling arrangement on an RV.
They are tightly cowled; that's one of the reasons they go fast on
relatively little fuel. (My RV-7A, with an IO-360 at 2300 rpm, leaned
conservatively and cruising between 4000' and 8000', does 142 kph (give or
take a few) and burns 7.5 gph. Up high the engine is putting out < 60%
power. Oil temp stays right around 180 - 185, even on a warm day) Make
sure you install a good oil cooler, ducted into a gate valve, installed in a
rear baffle (My cooler is on the right side of the firewall, down low enough
that I was able to install a homemade plenum chamber above it and a length
of SCAT tubing connecting the plenum to the gate valve. The gate valve is
controlled from the instrument panel via a push/pull cable. The valve came
out of a woodworker's supply catalogue; modified just a bit. It's classic
Vans - light - simple - inexpensive and works great.
Get yourself a couple tubes of red, high temp RTV; pull on some rubber
gloves and have at it. I'll tell you the same thing my wife told me after
my first attempts at spraying primer on the internal parts of the tail:
"Only the bugs will ever see it." Unless of course you change the oil or
do engine maintenance in a public place: In which case you have an excuse
at the ready: "My wife did it when I wasn't looking."
Cheers,
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB (Spero II)
127 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 12:23 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the
> baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant
> absolutely necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the
> installation. :-(
>
> If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to
> use?
>
> About all I could find on ACS was this:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
>
> At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
>
> Feedback would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles |
Matt,
I say horsepucky!
Install your engine baffling. Go fly the airplane. Then spend hours
putting red RTV in every crevasse and fly it again. You will notice there is
no difference in your CHTs or Oil Temp. None.
Now - if your goal is maximum speed, then you will want to pay more
attention to sealing the air cooling flow since it produces 30-40% of your
overall drag. But, if you are trying to maximize speed, there are more important
things to do to reduce cooling drag than filling every tiny opening with
RTV. Making a plenum is more important. Improving the exit air flow is
more important. Optimizing the intake/exit ratio is more important. Once
those are done, then sealing all tiny openings with RTV is the final step.
I flew my RV-8 without RTV sealing the baffling and then sealed it
carefully with RTV. Zero difference in any temperatures. None.
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | FAA Bill of Sale Form... |
Listeres,
How does the FAA Bill of Sale form work? Do I fill it out and mail it to Van's
for signature, do they mail me one already filled out if I request it, or do
I just put "Van's" under who I got it from and call it done?
Also, under "value" what's the recommend amount? What the basic airframe kit from
Van's cost?
Man, I can't believe how many forms there are to register this thing...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Forms And Final Touches Before Inspection...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB Needle Type Trim Indicators |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Last thing I need is a pair on RP2 Ray Allen Needle Type Trim Indicators.
New or used, I'll trade the two LED type I have now if you want them, I'l
l pay shipping. Thanks, Bill RV-8a wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Mar 30, 2010 2:59 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 03/29/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
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----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 03/29/10: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
1. 05:17 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
_______________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
rom: Speedy11(at)aol.com
ubject: RV8-List: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles
Matt,
say horsepucky!
nstall your engine baffling. Go fly the airplane. Then spend hours
utting red RTV in every crevasse and fly it again. You will notice there
is
no difference in your CHTs or Oil Temp. None.
ow - if your goal is maximum speed, then you will want to pay more
ttention to sealing the air cooling flow since it produces 30-40% of your
verall drag. But, if you are trying to maximize speed, there are more
mportant
things to do to reduce cooling drag than filling every tiny opening with
TV. Making a plenum is more important. Improving the exit air flow is
ore important. Optimizing the intake/exit ratio is more important. Once
hose are done, then sealing all tiny openings with RTV is the final step.
flew my RV-8 without RTV sealing the baffling and then sealed it
arefully with RTV. Zero difference in any temperatures. None.
tan Sutterfield
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Stan, I've never met you, but your making a ton of sense. I've been known
to pole vault over mouse turds a few times and common sense has to prevai
l. Thanks for the info and assistance you gave me on my MGL EFIS. now in
my 8a. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 8:14 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles
Matt,
I say horsepucky!
Install your engine baffling. Go fly the airplane. Then spend hours putt
ing red RTV in every crevasse and fly it again. You will notice there is
no difference in your CHTs or Oil Temp. None.
Now - if your goal is maximum speed, then you will want to pay more attent
ion to sealing the air cooling flow since it produces 30-40% of your overa
ll drag. But, if you are trying to maximize speed, there are more importa
nt things to do to reduce cooling drag than filling every tiny opening wit
h RTV. Making a plenum is more important. Improving the exit air flow is
more important. Optimizing the intake/exit ratio is more important. Onc
e those are done, then sealing all tiny openings with RTV is the final ste
p.
I flew my RV-8 without RTV sealing the baffling and then sealed it careful
ly with RTV. Zero difference in any temperatures. None.
Stan Sutterfield
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders Won't Calibrate... |
Dear Listers,
I installed Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders in the left and right fuel tanks with
Proseal (see attached). Last week I installed the wings permanently and today
I torqued all of the fuel lines from the wings to the fuselage. I got 21
gallons in 5.25 gallon increments ready to calibrate the 5-set point Princeton
probes today. They both powered up fine and started flashing the left light
indicating the Empty set point. I pushed the button once per the calibration
instructions to go to the 1/4 level. Instead of getting the #2 led flashing,
I get the all three LEDs flashing sequence indicating that probe "Can't be calibrated"!!!
From the installation manual: CAL Error (three flashing LEDs) - The probe failed
to calibrate. Possible causes: water in the tank (NO), inner brass rod is
shorted to the outside aluminum tube (PROBABLY), Alcohol in the fuel (NO), trying
to calibrate full first instead of empty (NO), or the probe electronics have
failed (MAYBE)." Yeah, you read all that right.
The best part of this story is that I Prosealed these babies in, installed the
wings, and now discover that both probes are defective or what even. How can
this fricken be? Its too late in the game for this. Replacing these stupid probes
is going to be a major pain not to mention the fact that likelihood of leaks
are now going to be high. I just can't believe it. This is so frustrating.
Why didn't the manual advise to check this long before now? Like before
they were installed, during installation, and right after installation before
the Proseal cured?
Oh, did I mention BOTH are bad? How can this be... How disheartening. Please
tell me I'm just mis-reading the calibration instructions...?
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say avoid these piles of garbage...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders Won't Calibrate |
Matt,
That is exactly what I advised you about months ago. The Princeton probes
do not calibrate properly.
I've filled and drained my tanks seven times. They still will not
calibrate. I recommend builders use anything other than Princeton probes. And
try to get them on the phone to talk about it. Good luck with that.
Mine are also prosealed in. Still, I'm tempted to rip them out and throw
them in the trash and replace them with floats.
What I'm doing now is gradually calibrating the fuel flow transducer to get
it as accurate as possible and then I'll simply keep track of how much has
been burned or how much is remaining. Since I used a both selection on my
fuel selector, it is easier for me to know about how much remains in the
tanks. It will be a little more challenging for you since you'll be
switching left and right.
I've recommended for the past year that nobody buy the Princeton probes -
and I still recommend against them.
Stan Sutterfield
I installed Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders in the left and right fuel
tanks with
Proseal (see attached). Last week I installed the wings permanently and
today
I torqued all of the fuel lines from the wings to the fuselage. I got 21
gallons in 5.25 gallon increments ready to calibrate the 5-set point
Princeton
probes today. They both powered up fine and started flashing the left
light
indicating the Empty set point. I pushed the button once per the
calibration
instructions to go to the 1/4 level. Instead of getting the #2 led
flashing,
I get the all three LEDs flashing sequence indicating that probe "Can't be
calibrated"!!!
>From the installation manual: CAL Error (three flashing LEDs) - The probe
failed
to calibrate. Possible causes: water in the tank (NO), inner brass rod is
shorted to the outside aluminum tube (PROBABLY), Alcohol in the fuel (NO),
trying
to calibrate full first instead of empty (NO), or the probe electronics
have
failed (MAYBE)." Yeah, you read all that right.
The best part of this story is that I Prosealed these babies in, installed
the
wings, and now discover that both probes are defective or what even. How
can
this fricken be? Its too late in the game for this. Replacing these
stupid probes
is going to be a major pain not to mention the fact that likelihood of
leaks
are now going to be high. I just can't believe it. This is so
frustrating.
Why didn't the manual advise to check this long before now? Like before
they were installed, during installation, and right after installation
before
the Proseal cured?
Oh, did I mention BOTH are bad? How can this be... How disheartening.
Please
tell me I'm just mis-reading the calibration instructions...?
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say avoid these piles of garbage...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6 |
Hello listers...
Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) to a A1B6 front fuel
controller by machining the sump boss to accept the mounting of the fuel controller
to the front of the sump.
Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by switching the inlet
to the front of the sump it will detune the system.
Chris Stone
RV-8
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (UPDATE) Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders Won't Calibrate... |
Dear Listers,
I was able to get fairly good access to the fuel sender from under the airplane
and so I removed the 5 screws with a right-angle electric screwdriver attachment
and gently pulled the sender about 1" out. As I did this, I noticed that
the tip of the probe seemed to touching the bottom of the fuel tank. Recall that
the probe comes prebent in a "U" shape for RV installations. I thought that
perhaps the tip of the probe touching the tank wasn't a good idea, so I gently
twisted the fuel sender so as to slightly bend the tip of the probe up just
a little bit. I pushed the sending back into the hole and put two screws in
to hold it in normal position. I applied power and pressed the button down to
get it into calibration mode. I got the one flashing LED indicating Empty set
point as before. I pressed the button once again to get the 1/4 set point,
and much to my surprise, I received to next sequence of two flashing lights!!
So I tried the same procedure on the left tank and got the same results! Yahoo!
When I pulled the sender from the tank, the Proseal 100% stuck to the metal tank
and released from the sender. This worked out really well as it formed a nice
gasket. I mixed up a batch of Proseal and applied it to the probe and then
used new screws and reassembled both sides. After the reinstallation, I tested
the power-on/first set point again and was pleased to see that it was still
working! Yahoo!
So, after the Proseal cures, I'll try the calibration with fuel again. Hopefully
it will go through all 5 steps and I can just move on with this!
I was all ready to replace the Princeton's with the standard S&W floats, but when
I got to looking I realized that I had powered the Princeton's with +12v, and
the floats require a 470 ohm to 4.8V. So, changing to the floats would require
rewiring behind the panel and that's a whole lot of work I'm just not up
for right now!! Hopefully the Princeton's will calibrate fully now and I'll be
back on track!
I'll post another update after my calibration escapade...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
At 05:37 PM 4/4/2010 Sunday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I installed Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders in the left and right fuel tanks with
Proseal (see attached). Last week I installed the wings permanently and today
I torqued all of the fuel lines from the wings to the fuselage. I got 21
gallons in 5.25 gallon increments ready to calibrate the 5-set point Princeton
probes today. They both powered up fine and started flashing the left light
indicating the Empty set point. I pushed the button once per the calibration
instructions to go to the 1/4 level. Instead of getting the #2 led flashing,
I get the all three LEDs flashing sequence indicating that probe "Can't be calibrated"!!!
>
> From the installation manual: CAL Error (three flashing LEDs) - The probe failed
to calibrate. Possible causes: water in the tank (NO), inner brass rod is
shorted to the outside aluminum tube (PROBABLY), Alcohol in the fuel (NO), trying
to calibrate full first instead of empty (NO), or the probe electronics have
failed (MAYBE)." Yeah, you read all that right.
>
>The best part of this story is that I Prosealed these babies in, installed the
wings, and now discover that both probes are defective or what even. How can
this fricken be? Its too late in the game for this. Replacing these stupid
probes is going to be a major pain not to mention the fact that likelihood of
leaks are now going to be high. I just can't believe it. This is so frustrating.
Why didn't the manual advise to check this long before now? Like before
they were installed, during installation, and right after installation before
the Proseal cured?
>
>Oh, did I mention BOTH are bad? How can this be... How disheartening. Please
tell me I'm just mis-reading the calibration instructions...?
>
>I'm going to go out on a limb here and say avoid these piles of garbage...
>
>Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
RV-8 List Members,=0A=0AI've finally come to the place in building where I
-have to attach the top forward skin.- A lot of the rivet locations are
about impossibe to get to - especially along the sides in the gear boxes.
- I've considered cherry max rivets, but the smallest size is too large.
- Is anyone aware of screws being used instead of rivets for this skin?
- =0A=0AIf the longerons are tapped and-platenuts are installed on tops
of the bulkhead, firewall and panel, flat head screws (NAS514 machine scre
ws) could be used.- Also, this would make it possible to remove the skin
-and windshield, I believe.-=0A=0AAny comments would be appreciated.=0A
=0ABreece Nesbitt=0ARV-8=0AN28117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top Fwd Skin |
At 05:02 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
>RV-8 List Members,
>
>I've finally come to the place in building where I have to attach the top forward
skin. A lot of the rivet locations are about impossibe to get to - especially
along the sides in the gear boxes. I've considered cherry max rivets, but
the smallest size is too large. Is anyone aware of screws being used instead
of rivets for this skin?
>
>If the longerons are tapped and platenuts are installed on tops of the bulkhead,
firewall and panel, flat head screws (NAS514 machine screws) could be used.
Also, this would make it possible to remove the skin and windshield, I believe.
>
>Any comments would be appreciated.
>
>Breece Nesbitt
>RV-8
>N28117
Hi Breece,
The text below is from my log entry regarding this vary thing.
"CherryMax CR3214 Pop Rivets On Gear Towers
There were about 6 rivets on each side of the top instrument panel skin that were
located inside the gear towers. Consequently, getting to the backside to buck
them was nearly impossible. I suppose with just the right bucking bar, crafted
specifically just for reaching those pesky rivets, you probably could buck
them, but of the 8 or 9 bucking bars I have, nothing came even close.
I did a little research on the Net and found that many people have been using CherryMax CR3214 4-4 Pop rivets for these few rivets. These, however, seem to be a little hard to find because they have a 1/8" body, but a 3/32" countersunk rivet head. I found a great source for them, however, at Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company ( http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/store.asp?alternate=CR3214%2D4%2D4 ). These guys have all kind of nifty hardware for aircraft and are very friendly and helpful on the phone. Give them a call and have them ship you a catalog; a resource guide in and of itself.
I ordered 30 or so of the CR3214 4-4 and when they arrived, I drilled the holes
out to 1/8" and then stuck them in the holes. The are really cool and leave a
completely flush rivet that almost cannot be distinguished from a standard 426
3/32" rivet. In fact, the mandrel of these pop rivets breaks off exactly flush
as well, so they don't even leave any ugly hole.
By the way, if you have a decent "standard" pop rivet tool, it should work with
the CR3214 rivets as well. No need to buy a special rivet tool."
Online log entries here:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94469&row=160
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94470&row=159
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #83880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Constrution Log
Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Top Fwd Skin |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Yes, I did the same. Worked out fine:
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=43
<http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=43>
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 8:16 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> At 05:02 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
> RV-8 List Members,
>
> I've finally come to the place in building where I have to attach the top
> forward skin. A lot of the rivet locations are about impossibe to get to -
> especially along the sides in the gear boxes. I've considered cherry max
> rivets, but the smallest size is too large. Is anyone aware of screws being
> used instead of rivets for this skin?
>
> If the longerons are tapped and platenuts are installed on tops of the
> bulkhead, firewall and panel, flat head screws (NAS514 machine screws) could
> be used. Also, this would make it possible to remove the skin and
> windshield, I believe.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Breece Nesbitt
> RV-8
> N28117
>
>
> Hi Breece,
>
> The text below is from my log entry regarding this vary thing.
>
> "CherryMax CR3214 Pop Rivets On Gear Towers
>
> There were about 6 rivets on each side of the top instrument panel skin
> that were located inside the gear towers. Consequently, getting to the
> backside to buck them was nearly impossible. I suppose with just the right
> bucking bar, crafted specifically just for reaching those pesky rivets, you
> probably could buck them, but of the 8 or 9 bucking bars I have, nothing
> came even close.
>
> I did a little research on the Net and found that many people have been
> using CherryMax CR3214 4-4 Pop rivets for these few rivets. These, however,
> seem to be a little hard to find because they have a 1/8" body, but a 3/32"
> countersunk rivet head. I found a great source for them, however, at Genuine
> Aircraft Hardware Company (
> http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/store.asp?alternate=CR3214%2D4%2D4 ).
> These guys have all kind of nifty hardware for aircraft and are very
> friendly and helpful on the phone. Give them a call and have them ship you a
> catalog; a resource guide in and of itself.
>
> I ordered 30 or so of the CR3214 4-4 and when they arrived, I drilled the
> holes out to 1/8" and then stuck them in the holes. The are really cool and
> leave a completely flush rivet that almost cannot be distinguished from a
> standard 426 3/32" rivet. In fact, the mandrel of these pop rivets breaks
> off exactly flush as well, so they don't even leave any ugly hole.
>
> By the way, if you have a decent "standard" pop rivet tool, it should work
> with the CR3214 rivets as well. No need to buy a special rivet tool."
>
> Online log entries here:
>
>
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94469&row=160
>
>
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94470&row=159
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #83880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Constrution Log
> Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... |
I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert
from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert, or is
the pink copy of the registration sufficient?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log
Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6 |
I had a C1E6 that was converted to forward facing induction, but I could not
tell you the details as I bought it that way. Runs good though. Mark Rose
137MR RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:33 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6
>
> Hello listers...
>
> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) to a A1B6
> front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to accept the mounting of
> the fuel controller to the front of the sump.
>
> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by switching
> the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune the system.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8
> Oregon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar... |
Thought I'd share a couple of pictures of the 'ol RV-8 project now that its moved
to the hangar... Since these were taken the wings have been put on.
Won't be long now!!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log
Final Bits And Pieces...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Th.Girault" <nithrium(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar... |
Flicitation Matt ton RV8 est vraiment Magnifique !!
Thierry French builder of RV8 (Paris)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:12 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
>
> Thought I'd share a couple of pictures of the 'ol RV-8 project now that
> its moved to the hangar... Since these were taken the wings have been put
> on.
>
> Won't be long now!!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log
> Final Bits And Pieces...
>
>
> Email analys par Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Version de la base de donnes : 6.14720
> http://www.pctools.com/fr/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
Email analys par Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Version de la base de donnes : 6.14720
http://www.pctools.com/fr/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks! - Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6 |
Thanks to all who replied!
I received very valuable info that I would have had to search far and wide for
had it not been for this wonderful resource of which you are all a part!
Thank You,
chris stone RV-8 Oregon
-----Original Message-----
>From: av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com
>Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:32 AM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6
>
>
>I had a C1E6 that was converted to forward facing induction, but I could not
>tell you the details as I bought it that way. Runs good though. Mark Rose
>137MR RV8A
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:33 AM
>Subject: RV8-List: Lyc IO360-C1C6 to A1B6
>
>
>>
>> Hello listers...
>>
>> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) to a A1B6
>> front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to accept the mounting of
>> the fuel controller to the front of the sump.
>>
>> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by switching
>> the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune the system.
>>
>> Chris Stone
>> RV-8
>> Oregon
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Just wondering. Why not use the 3/32 pop rivets that Vans has? Then you don
t have to drill a 1/8 hole??
Date: Tue=2C 6 Apr 2010 17:16:52 -0700
From: dralle(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Top Fwd Skin
At 05:02 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday=2C you wrote:
RV-8 List Members=2C
I've finally come to the place in building where I have to attach the top f
orward skin. A lot of the rivet locations are about impossibe to get to -
especially along the sides in the gear boxes. I've considered cherry max r
ivets=2C but the smallest size is too large. Is anyone aware of screws bei
ng used instead of rivets for this skin?
If the longerons are tapped and platenuts are installed on tops of the bulk
head=2C firewall and panel=2C flat head screws (NAS514 machine screws) coul
d be used. Also=2C this would make it possible to remove the skin and wind
shield=2C I believe.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Breece Nesbitt
RV-8
N28117
Hi Breece=2C
The text below is from my log entry regarding this vary thing.
"CherryMax CR3214 Pop Rivets On Gear Towers
There were about 6 rivets on each side of the top instrument panel skin tha
t were located inside the gear towers. Consequently=2C getting to the backs
ide to buck them was nearly impossible. I suppose with just the right bucki
ng bar=2C crafted specifically just for reaching those pesky rivets=2C you
probably could buck them=2C but of the 8 or 9 bucking bars I have=2C nothin
g came even close.
I did a little research on the Net and found that many people have been usi
ng CherryMax CR3214 4-4 Pop rivets for these few rivets. These=2C however
=2C seem to be a little hard to find because they have a 1/8" body=2C but a
3/32" countersunk rivet head. I found a great source for them=2C however
=2C at Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company ( http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware
.com/store.asp?alternate=CR3214%2D4%2D4 ). These guys have all kind of ni
fty hardware for aircraft and are very friendly and helpful on the phone. G
ive them a call and have them ship you a catalog=3B a resource guide in and
of itself.
I ordered 30 or so of the CR3214 4-4 and when they arrived=2C I drilled the
holes out to 1/8" and then stuck them in the holes. The are really cool an
d leave a completely flush rivet that almost cannot be distinguished from a
standard 426 3/32" rivet. In fact=2C the mandrel of these pop rivets break
s off exactly flush as well=2C so they don't even leave any ugly hole.
By the way=2C if you have a decent "standard" pop rivet tool=2C it should w
ork with the CR3214 rivets as well. No need to buy a special rivet tool."
Online log entries here:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&proj
ect=638&log=94469&row=160
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&proj
ect=638&log=94470&row=159
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #83880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Constrution Log
Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... |
At 05:37 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
>I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert
from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert, or is
the pink copy of the registration sufficient?
>
>Matt Dralle
I found the following bit of information on the FAA web site regarding registrations
and the use of the Pink copy. Here's an excerpt from the link that follows:
"You can also check the Document Index to see if recently mailed registration documents
have arrived at the Aircraft Registration Branch. Arrival of registration
documents in the Registry enables confirmation that application for registration
has been made and temporary (pink-copy) operating authority is in effect.
Processing registration documents related to a change in aircraft ownership
averages 16 working days after their receipt."
http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_registry/registration_status/
To me, this sounds like as soon as the FAA has received the registration and entered
it into the system as indicated by an on line status search, you are allowed
to use the Pink copy until the real copy arrives.
I would then assume that Airworthiness could be applied for under the same conditions...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Top Fwd Skin |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, I could not help but notice that you riveted the top skin on without
having the windscreen rollbar mounted. I suppose there must be some way
to mount it afterward? And why would you do it that way? Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Apr 6, 2010 8:16 pm
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Top Fwd Skin
At 05:02 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
RV-8 List Members,
I've finally come to the place in building where I have to attach the top
forward skin. A lot of the rivet locations are about impossibe to get to
- especially along the sides in the gear boxes. I've considered cherry
max rivets, but the smallest size is too large. Is anyone aware of screw
s being used instead of rivets for this skin?
If the longerons are tapped and platenuts are installed on tops of the bul
khead, firewall and panel, flat head screws (NAS514 machine screws) could
be used. Also, this would make it possible to remove the skin and windsh
ield, I believe.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Breece Nesbitt
RV-8
N28117
Hi Breece,
The text below is from my log entry regarding this vary thing.
"CherryMax CR3214 Pop Rivets On Gear Towers
There were about 6 rivets on each side of the top instrument panel skin th
at were located inside the gear towers. Consequently, getting to the backs
ide to buck them was nearly impossible. I suppose with just the right buck
ing bar, crafted specifically just for reaching those pesky rivets, you pr
obably could buck them, but of the 8 or 9 bucking bars I have, nothing cam
e even close.
I did a little research on the Net and found that many people have been us
ing CherryMax CR3214 4-4 Pop rivets for these few rivets. These, however,
seem to be a little hard to find because they have a 1/8" body, but a 3/3
2" countersunk rivet head. I found a great source for them, however, at Ge
nuine Aircraft Hardware Company ( http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/sto
re.asp?alternate=CR3214%2D4%2D4 ). These guys have all kind of nifty har
dware for aircraft and are very friendly and helpful on the phone. Give th
em a call and have them ship you a catalog; a resource guide in and of its
elf.
I ordered 30 or so of the CR3214 4-4 and when they arrived, I drilled the
holes out to 1/8" and then stuck them in the holes. The are really cool
and leave a completely flush rivet that almost cannot be distinguished fr
om a standard 426 3/32" rivet. In fact, the mandrel of these pop rivets br
eaks off exactly flush as well, so they don't even leave any ugly hole.
By the way, if you have a decent "standard" pop rivet tool, it should work
with the CR3214 rivets as well. No need to buy a special rivet tool."
Online log entries here:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&pro
ject=638&log=94469&row=160
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&pro
ject=638&log=94470&row=159
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #83880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Constrution Log
Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... |
>From AC no: 20-27F I quote:
When to Register. We recommend you apply for registration 60 to 120 days be
fore you finish constructing your aircraft and before you submit FAA Form 8
130-6 to us. This should allow you to get your registration information in
time for your FAA inspection.
AC 20-27F is pretty much step by step walk you through it. My copy came in
the package sent to me by my FAA FSDO.
Regards
Vince H.
Washington
RV8 N8432 Flying 46hours
Date: Wed=2C 7 Apr 2010 14:27:19 -0700
om
From: dralle(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg..
.
At 05:37 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday=2C you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted
by: Matt Dralle
I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final
registration cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your
Airworthiness cert=2C or is the pink copy of the registration
sufficient?
Matt Dralle
I found the following bit of information on the FAA web site regarding
registrations and the use of the Pink copy. Here's an excerpt from
the link that follows:
"You can also check the Document Index
to see if recently mailed registration documents have arrived at the
Aircraft Registration Branch. Arrival of registration documents in
the Registry enables confirmation that application for registration has
been made and temporary (pink-copy) operating authority is in
effect. Processing registration documents related to a change in
aircraft ownership averages 16 working days after their
receipt."
http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_re
gistry/registration_status/
To me=2C this sounds like as soon as the FAA has received the registration
and entered it into the system as indicated by an on line status search=2C
you are allowed to use the Pink copy until the real copy
arrives.
I would then assume that Airworthiness could be applied for under the
same conditions...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H
otmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=
PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Weight & Balance Spreadsheet |
Dear Listers,
I finally weighted the 'ol RV-8 last night. Gulp. As expected, pretty heavy.
I did forget to fill it up with oil before I weighed, however, so I'll have to
redo my weighing after I do that.
In the meantime, I created a spreadsheet to calculate the Weight & Balance. The
sheet calculates a number of common scenarios and allows for the user-entering
of various parameters such as pilot weight and plane weights as well as the
various arms. Its setup for an RV-8, but could very easily be modified for other
models of RVs. After I finished it, I thought other builders might like
to use it as well. It comes with no guarantees whatsoever.
You can click on the link below to download either the PDF or the Excel spreadsheet:
PDF Format:
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.pdf
Excel Format:
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.xls
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top Fwd Skin |
Thanks for the information, Matt.- I've ordered the Cherry Max CR3214 Pop
Rivets from Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company.- Your airplane, by the wa
y, looks very nice!- =0A-=0ABreece=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________
__________=0AFrom: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>=0ATo: rv8-list@matron
ics.com=0ASent: Tue, April 6, 2010 8:16:52 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV8-List: Top
Fwd Skin=0A=0AAt 05:02 PM 4/6/2010- Tuesday, you wrote:=0A=0ARV-8 List Me
mbers,=0A>-=0A>I've finally come to the place in building where I have to
attach the top forward skin.- A lot of the rivet locations are about imp
ossibe to get to - especially along the sides in the gear boxes.- I've co
nsidered cherry max rivets, but the smallest size is too large.- Is anyon
e aware of screws being used instead of rivets for this skin?- =0A>-=0A
>If the longerons are tapped and platenuts are installed on tops of the bul
khead, firewall and panel, flat head screws (NAS514 machine screws) could b
e used.- Also, this would make it possible to remove the skin and windshi
eld, I believe. =0A>-=0A>Any comments would be appreciated.=0A>-=0A>Bre
ece Nesbitt=0A>RV-8=0A>N28117=0A>=0AHi Breece,=0A=0AThe text below is from
my log entry regarding this vary thing.=0A=0A"CherryMax CR3214 Pop Rivets O
n Gear Towers=0A=0AThere were about 6 rivets on each side of the top instru
ment panel skin that were located inside the gear towers. Consequently, get
ting to the backside to buck them was nearly impossible. I suppose with jus
t the right bucking bar, crafted specifically just for reaching those pesky
rivets, you probably could buck them, but of the 8 or 9 bucking bars I hav
e, nothing came even close.=0A=0AI did a little research on the Net and fou
nd that many people have been using CherryMax CR3214 4-4 Pop rivets for the
se few rivets. These, however, seem to be a little hard to find because the
y have a 1/8" body, but a 3/32" countersunk rivet head. I found a great sou
rce for them, however, at Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company ( http://www.ge
n-aircraft-hardware.com/store.asp?alternate=CR3214%2D4%2D4 ). These guys
have all kind of nifty hardware for aircraft and are very friendly and help
ful on the phone. Give them a call and have them ship you a catalog; a reso
urce guide in and of itself.=0A=0AI ordered 30 or so of the CR3214 4-4 and
when they arrived, I drilled the holes out to 1/8" and then stuck them in t
he holes. The are really cool and leave a completely flush rivet that almos
t cannot be distinguished from a standard 426 3/32" rivet. In fact, the man
drel of these pop rivets breaks off exactly flush as well, so they don't ev
en leave any ugly hole.=0A=0ABy the way, if you have a decent "standard" po
p rivet tool, it should work with the CR3214 rivets as well. No need to buy
a special rivet tool."=0A=0AOnline log entries here:=0A=0A-----
--- http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&pro
ject=638&log=94469&row=160 =0A=0A-------- http://www.
mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=9447
0&row=159 =0A=0A=0AMatt Dralle=0ARV-8 #83880 N998RV=0Ahttp://www.mattsrv8
.com/ Matt's RV-8 Constrution Log=0AFinal Bits - Inspection then Test Fligh
t!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet |
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com> |
Why re-weight it? If you know the weight of the oil and the arm of
the oil sump, just do the math. IMHO.
Dale
On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 8:20 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I finally weighted the 'ol RV-8 last night. Gulp. As expected, pretty heavy.
I did forget to fill it up with oil before I weighed, however, so I'll have to
redo my weighing after I do that.
>
> In the meantime, I created a spreadsheet to calculate the Weight & Balance. The
sheet calculates a number of common scenarios and allows for the user-entering
of various parameters such as pilot weight and plane weights as well as the
various arms. Its setup for an RV-8, but could very easily be modified for other
models of RVs. After I finished it, I thought other builders might like to
use it as well. It comes with no guarantees whatsoever.
>
> You can click on the link below to download either the PDF or the Excel spreadsheet:
>
> PDF Format:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.pdf
>
>
> Excel Format:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.xls
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Anybody need an "Extra Hand" in building their RV ?? |
Greetings:
I have time to help someone on their Project. I have completed building the RV-8A
empennage ( Acid etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primed the interior skins
and assembled) and have run out of room to continue building. Have tools to help
someone on their Project. I am a retired electrical engineer and have designed
my own Electrical System for the RV. Also designed an "Pilot Aux Warning
System" that monitors Vans analog engine gauges and provides a Warning for -
"Low Fuel", "Hi Oil Temp", "Low Voltage", etc Spent many ours researching the
best way to do things on Matronics from other Builders. Hoped to use this info
on my Project, but ran out of room to build, thus hoping to share ideas and
help someone on their "Project".
Garey Wittich (CFI, MEI)
Santa Monica, CA
(310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <geezer02(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody need an "Extra Hand" in building their RV ?? |
I sure wished you were on the east coast ( North Carolina) I would give you a space
to continue with your project and help with mine.
Louis
RV-8
---- Garey Wittich wrote:
> Greetings:
>
> I have time to help someone on their Project. I have completed building the
RV-8A empennage ( Acid etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primed the interior skins
and assembled) and have run out of room to continue building. Have tools to
help someone on their Project. I am a retired electrical engineer and have designed
my own Electrical System for the RV. Also designed an "Pilot Aux Warning
System" that monitors Vans analog engine gauges and provides a Warning for
- "Low Fuel", "Hi Oil Temp", "Low Voltage", etc Spent many ours researching
the best way to do things on Matronics from other Builders. Hoped to use this
info on my Project, but ran out of room to build, thus hoping to share ideas
and help someone on their "Project".
>
> Garey Wittich (CFI, MEI)
> Santa Monica, CA
> (310) 392-1682
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Phillips <flyboy4969(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody need an "Extra Hand" in building their RV ?? |
Same here. I'm in the midwest with a 60'x100' fully equipped machine shed, a 3
bedroom, 2800' sq ft. house in the country with only 1 bedroom in use & no time
to work on the plane.
AAARRGGHHH!!!
----- Original Message ----
From: "geezer02(at)windstream.net" <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
Sent: Sun, April 11, 2010 7:35:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Anybody need an "Extra Hand" in building their RV ??
I sure wished you were on the east coast ( North Carolina) I would give you a space
to continue with your project and help with mine.
Louis
RV-8
---- Garey Wittich wrote:
> Greetings:
>
> I have time to help someone on their Project. I have completed building the
RV-8A empennage ( Acid etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primed the interior skins
and assembled) and have run out of room to continue building. Have tools to
help someone on their Project. I am a retired electrical engineer and have designed
my own Electrical System for the RV. Also designed an "Pilot Aux Warning
System" that monitors Vans analog engine gauges and provides a Warning for
- "Low Fuel", "Hi Oil Temp", "Low Voltage", etc Spent many ours researching
the best way to do things on Matronics from other Builders. Hoped to use this
info on my Project, but ran out of room to build, thus hoping to share ideas
and help someone on their "Project".
>
> Garey Wittich (CFI, MEI)
> Santa Monica, CA
> (310) 392-1682
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with
a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left
mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output.
In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out
there like this.
I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line
on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gfr56(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
I can offer nothing on the pick off option from the P lead....but... The GRT EIS
4000 now can take 2 inputs for RPM and displays RPM #1 if it is present . Your
older unit may be upgradable.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 1:26:23 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV8-List: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple
prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag
p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In
my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there
like this.
I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line
on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
Matt,
You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender
when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872
Skylor
Sent from my iPhone.
On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with
a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left
mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output.
In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out
there like this.
I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line
on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
Matt,
You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender
when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872
Skylor
Sent from my iPhone.
On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with
a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left
mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output.
In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out
there like this.
I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line
on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
Yes, I do remember that thread. In fact, I have those pickups installed, but I'm
not getting any reading on the EIS-4000 with either one of them. I'm using
the vent hole closest to the engine block. Have you successfully interfaced
them to the EIS-4000?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
At 02:12 PM 4/11/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
>
>Matt,
>
>You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender
when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872
>
>Skylor
>
>Sent from my iPhone.
>
>On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
>Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with
a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left
mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output.
In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out
there like this.
>
>I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a
line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
>
>Thanks!!
>
>Matt Dralle
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements |
What are you using for excitation voltage to the sender?
Honestly, I haven't run my engine yet, but I was able to get the EIS to indicate
an RPM readind by "waving" a small magnet across the sensor. The excitation
voltage has to be 12 volts or so (a 5 volt source doesn't produce enough signal
voltage for the EIS).
Skylor
Sent from my iPhone.
On Apr 11, 2010, at 2:19 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
Yes, I do remember that thread. In fact, I have those pickups installed, but I'm
not getting any reading on the EIS-4000 with either one of them. I'm using
the vent hole closest to the engine block. Have you successfully interfaced
them to the EIS-4000?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
At 02:12 PM 4/11/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
Matt,
You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender
when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872
Skylor
Sent from my iPhone.
On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on
the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT
EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual
suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the
input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing.
But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with
a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left
mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output.
In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out
there like this.
I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into
the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line
on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS?
Thanks!!
Matt Dralle
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all,
I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS on and
bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end of
the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had never
really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have all the
appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side under the HS and on
top of the deck.
I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs about
3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage skin. I took
off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will need about 3/16 off
that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge distance will be okay, but
wondered if I have done something wrong. It doesn't seem right, somehow. I
thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue before I file off
something that I should not be removing.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS Fit Question |
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
> I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
> Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS on and
> bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end of
> the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
Had you already drilled the holes for mounting? I put mine on too low
(with the rear top skin not on the plane) and so had the move it up and
re-drill (replacing the bars it bolts into).
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 ready to mount wings
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill <bschmit767(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS Fit Question |
Michael,
I have a dash1 fuselage and the fit was the same as yours. I was able to
trim the bottom of the vertical for clearance and still have enough
edge distance.
Bill
RV8
On 4/11/2010 7:48 PM, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
> Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS
> on and bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the
> forward end of the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
> I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had
> never really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have
> all the appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side
> under the HS and on top of the deck.
> I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs
> about 3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage
> skin. I took off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will
> need about 3/16 off that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge
> distance will be okay, but wondered if I have done something wrong.
> It doesn't seem right, somehow. I thought I would see if anyone else
> has had this issue before I file off something that I should not be
> removing.
> Thoughts?
> Michael Wynn
> RV 8 Finishing
> San Ramon, CA
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | First Engine Start - Lycoming IO-390 Purrrrrzzz! |
Dear Listers,
The first start on the new Lycoming IO-390 from AeroSport went great. No
major issues to speak of. The exhaust bolts on the left rear cylinder were
a little bit loose, the hall-effect RPM sensors in the mags didn't seem to
work, and there was a small fuel leak coming from the fittings on one of
the fuel pressure transducers. Other than that, WOW! What a powerful
engine! In the video, I only got to about 1/3 throttle and it felt like it
wanted to jump off the ground! Really strong sounding and the 4-into-4
Vetterman exhaust really gives the motor a throaty sound. All of the
controls (throttle, mixture, and prop) worked as expected. Cycling the
prop pitch worked great. Fuel flow was good and I tested feeds from both
the left and right tanks. The left and right mags also checked out good as
did the kill switch. AeroSport bench ran the engine for 11.5 hours at my
request. This should get me well past the critical breakin period. The
ease at which it started attests to that as well.
Wow! That's all I've got to say! I can hardly wait to point this baby down
the runway and "get 'er done"!
In addition to the usual still-picture fair I normally attached to my log
entries, I've now added YouTube videos as well! And - they're in full
1080p HDTV resolution too! When the YouTube player comes up, in the lower
right hand corner it will say "360p" by default. Select the highest
setting that works on your computer without stuttering (480p/720p/1080p).
The HDTV versions are amazing clear. I can hardly wait to get some
air-to-air shots.
The cameras are Sony HDR-CX550V and HDR-XR550V units and sport 64GB of flash
and a 240GB hard drive respectively. They record in full 1080 HD and Dolby
digital 5.1 surround sound. I have the HDR-CX550V mounted on a head rest
mount on the back of the pilot's seat and the HDR-XR550V is used for tripod
or hand held action capture. The head rest mount is a little too low to
see over my shoulder and I've got an extension ordered that should lift it
well over the obstruction. I edited the various clips down using Adobe
Premiere CS4, which is very nice, btw.
HDTV Videos (Select the 480p, 720p, or 1080p HD Quality Versions!)
First Engine Start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK-dIxL9aJ8
Testing Fuel Flow Sender
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5NWP9W8pko
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VS Fit Question |
So Bill, do you remember if the holes in the VS and HS that bolt together
were pre-punched?
Michael
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:19:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bschmit767(at)ca.rr.com writes:
Michael,
I have a dash1 fuselage and the fit was the same as yours. I was able to
trim the bottom of the vertical for clearance and still have enough edge
distance.
Bill
RV8
On 4/11/2010 7:48 PM, _MLWynn(at)aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn(at)aol.com) wrote:
Hi all,
I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS on and
bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end of
the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had never
really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have all the
appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side under the HS and
on
top of the deck.
I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs about
3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage skin. I took
off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will need about 3/16 off
that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge distance will be okay, but
wondered if I have done something wrong. It doesn't seem right, somehow. I
thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue before I file off
something that I should not be removing.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VS Fit Question |
Hi Brian,
Yes, there are drilled. My vague memory is that I leveled the HS on the
fuselage but that the holes on the VS spar were pre-punched. In any event,
there is insufficient room to redrill them and have adequate edge spacing.
Michael Wynn
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:13:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bifft(at)xmission.com writes:
--> RV8-List message posted by: Brian Huffaker
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
> I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
> Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS
on and
> bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end
of
> the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
Had you already drilled the holes for mounting? I put mine on too low
(with the rear top skin not on the plane) and so had the move it up and
re-drill (replacing the bars it bolts into).
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 ready to mount wings
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VS Fit Question |
I sent an email to Van's. Here is what they said:
Michael, This is not uncommon. There's not much for lateral loads on the
rivets of that lower
nose rib so don't worry too much about edge distance in that area. As
long as you've got a
little 'meat' left and not actually filing on the rivet, it should be fine.
Scott at Van's
Looks like this is a typical problem. Guess I will just trim a little
more.
Thanks, everybody.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:19:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bschmit767(at)ca.rr.com writes:
Michael,
I have a dash1 fuselage and the fit was the same as yours. I was able to
trim the bottom of the vertical for clearance and still have enough edge
distance.
Bill
RV8
On 4/11/2010 7:48 PM, _MLWynn(at)aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn(at)aol.com) wrote:
Hi all,
I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS on and
bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end of
the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had never
really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have all the
appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side under the HS and
on
top of the deck.
I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs about
3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage skin. I took
off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will need about 3/16 off
that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge distance will be okay, but
wondered if I have done something wrong. It doesn't seem right, somehow. I
thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue before I file off
something that I should not be removing.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 04/12/10 |
| From: | "Brent Owens" <bowens(at)netjets.com> |
I had to cut mine too. I have a -1 RV-8 slow build kit.
Brent Owens
Assistant Director of Flight Operations
NetJets(r) Aviation
4111 Bridgeway Avenue
Columbus, Ohio 43219
Tel: 614 239-2486
Fax: 614 239-2437
bowens(at)netjets.com
www.netjets.com
NetJets(r) Aviation is a NetJets(r) Inc. company.
NetJets(r) Inc. is a Berkshire Hathaway company.
This message contains information which may be confidential and
privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for
the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message
or any information contained in the message. If you have received the
message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete
the message.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List
Digest Server
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:59 AM
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 04/12/10
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the two
Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in
HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and
Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of
the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as
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HTML Version:
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RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 04/12/10: 3
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:35 PM - Re: VS Fit Question (MLWynn(at)aol.com)
2. 01:35 PM - Re: VS Fit Question (MLWynn(at)aol.com)
3. 01:37 PM - Re: VS Fit Question (MLWynn(at)aol.com)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: VS Fit Question
So Bill, do you remember if the holes in the VS and HS that bolt
together were pre-punched?
Michael
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:19:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bschmit767(at)ca.rr.com writes:
Michael,
I have a dash1 fuselage and the fit was the same as yours. I was able
to trim the bottom of the vertical for clearance and still have
enough edge distance.
Bill
RV8
On 4/11/2010 7:48 PM, _MLWynn(at)aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn(at)aol.com) wrote:
Hi all,
I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS
on and
bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end
of the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had
never really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have all
the appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side under
the HS and on top of the deck.
I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs
about
3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage skin. I
took off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will need about
3/16 off that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge distance will be
okay, but wondered if I have done something wrong. It doesn't seem
right, somehow. I thought I would see if anyone else has had this
issue before I file off something that I should not be removing.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV8-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: VS Fit Question
Hi Brian,
Yes, there are drilled. My vague memory is that I leveled the HS on
the
fuselage but that the holes on the VS spar were pre-punched. In any
event,
there is insufficient room to redrill them and have adequate edge
spacing.
Michael Wynn
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:13:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bifft(at)xmission.com writes:
--> RV8-List message posted by: Brian Huffaker
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
> I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
> Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the
HS
on and
> bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward
end
of
> the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
Had you already drilled the holes for mounting? I put mine on too low
(with the rear top skin not on the plane) and so had the move it up and
re-drill (replacing the bars it bolts into).
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 ready to mount wings
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: VS Fit Question
I sent an email to Van's. Here is what they said:
Michael, This is not uncommon. There's not much for lateral loads on
the
rivets of that lower
nose rib so don't worry too much about edge distance in that area. As
long as you've got a
little 'meat' left and not actually filing on the rivet, it should be
fine.
Scott at Van's
Looks like this is a typical problem. Guess I will just trim a little
more.
Thanks, everybody.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 4/11/2010 8:19:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bschmit767(at)ca.rr.com writes:
Michael,
I have a dash1 fuselage and the fit was the same as yours. I was able
to
trim the bottom of the vertical for clearance and still have enough
edge
distance.
Bill
RV8
On 4/11/2010 7:48 PM, _MLWynn(at)aol.com_ (mailto:MLWynn(at)aol.com) wrote:
Hi all,
I am building an RV 8 and have one of the first pre-punch fuselages.
Please reference drawing 78 if you want to see the spot. I put the HS
on and
bolted it in place. I then put the rudder on but found the forward end
of
the rudder hit the rear fuselage top skin.
I thought I had fit all this together before, but think maybe I had
never
really bolted the HS down. I double checked and think I have all the
appropriate spacers (just one 1/8th inch spacer on each side under the
HS and
on
top of the deck.
I started filing down the nose of the VS to get it to fit. It needs
about
3/8 of an inch to fit without touching the rear top fuselage skin. I
took
off all the skin in front of the bottom rib but will need about 3/16
off
that. I think that the minimum rivet to edge distance will be okay,
but
wondered if I have done something wrong. It doesn't seem right,
somehow. I
thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue before I file off
something that I should not be removing.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV8-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Smart <roger(at)smartdrive.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Ignition Module |
Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag
and one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module would
like some feedback on experiences from others. My concern is ignition
noise in radios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting on the
cold side of the firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the
module right behind the panel causing potential interference. Has anyone
experienced noise or sensor interference problems and what did you do to
solve them? Has anyone mounted the module on the hot side of the
firewall? How did you protect against heat and moisture? Any problems
with a hot side installation?
Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or
battery side of the master relay to a "pull-able" circuit breaker and
allows the unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type
connection.
"all Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a
standard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output
connector) is provided and should be connected to the key switch in the
same way as the magneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on your
battery when power is supplied via the input connector and the key
switch is in the off position. A pull-able circuit breaker should still
be installed in the positive power wire."
Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a
unprotected wire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7
and unless you pull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to the
module even when parked. This just does not seem reasonable. I would
like to know what others have done.
Thanks, Roger Smart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Welch <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed Ignition Module |
Roger=2C
Mine is also mounted on the hot side of the firewall with a shroud and blas
t tube. I have had no problems in the last five years. I believe that the
primary reason that Klaus wants a direct connection to the battery is to m
inimize voltage drop considerations during starting. There were some insta
nces of the starter pulling the voltage down at the buss to levels that cau
sed problems with reliable lightspeed operation.
Vince
Date: Sun=2C 18 Apr 2010 11:06:35 -0500
From: roger(at)smartdrive.com
Subject: RV8-List: Lightspeed Ignition Module
Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag and
one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module would like so
me feedback on experiences from others. My concern is ignition noise in ra
dios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting on the cold side of the
firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the module right behind t
he panel causing potential interference. Has anyone experienced noise or
sensor interference problems and what did you do to solve them? Has anyone
mounted the module on the hot side of the firewall? How did you protect ag
ainst heat and moisture? Any problems with a hot side installation?
Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or battery
side of the master relay to a =93pull-able=94 circuit breaker and allows t
he unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type connection.
=93all Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a sta
ndard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output connector) is p
rovided and should be connected to the key switch in the same way as the ma
gneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on your battery when power is su
pplied via the input connector and the key switch is in the off position.
A pull-able circuit breaker should still be installed in the positive power
wire.=94
Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a unprotected w
ire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7 and unless you p
ull the breaker=2C the wire is hot all the way to the module even when park
ed. This just does not seem reasonable. I would like to know what others
have done.
Thanks=2C Roger Smart
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inbox
.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
Dear Listers,
Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the
only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it
would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that
goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source?
I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
Thanks!
PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Instrumentation Checkout - HDTV Video |
Dear Listers,
Last week I ran the IO-390 on the RV-8 for about 12 minutes and went though and
checked all of the various systems and sensors. I talked though the each of
the things as I was checking them in an HD video I edited of the session.
Thought some might find it interesting...
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA
.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
At 03:53 PM 4/19/2010 Monday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Linn Walters
>
>Matt, cut the tubing, insert a 'T' with a short stub of tubing. Put a plug in
the tube of a type that you can pull out easily if needed.
>Simple, light, and inexpensive.
>Linn
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like
the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like
it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube
that goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
>>
>>Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin
source?
>>
>>I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
>>
>>Thanks!
What a great idea, Linn! Thanks. Here's what I did tonight including a couple
of pictures...
I added a small "T" Nylon fitting in the 1/4" tube for static air just in front
of the instrument panel under the left cockpit rail. I cut a short piece of
1/4" tubing and filled it with black RTV and then put a piece of heat shrink tubing
over it to form a handle. The whole thing fits nicely under the cockpit
rail and from the pilot's position is just barely visible, yet can be accessed
easy. In the event that icing conditions occur, the fitting can be unscrewed
and the plug removed for cabin venting.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD" <gaillard.peck.ctr(at)nellis.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
Beautiful airplane Matt. Congratulations. I look forward to news of the first flight.
Gail Peck
RV-8 Wings slow build
Las Vegas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 1:51 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Dear Listers,
Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the
only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it
would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that
goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source?
I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
Thanks!
PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | "Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, Executive Officer" <kenneth.kopp(at)navy.mil> |
Where did you get the ideal an alternate static source was required for IFR flight.
No such thing as an IFR "certification" BTW...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 11:18
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Beautiful airplane Matt. Congratulations. I look forward to news of the first flight.
Gail Peck
RV-8 Wings slow build
Las Vegas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 1:51 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Dear Listers,
Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the
only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it
would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that
goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source?
I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
Thanks!
PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
Dear Listers,
I'm working with the local FSDO this week and had my airframe inspection on Monday
will get my sign-off this Friday if all goes well. Looking over the requirements
for IFR, it appears that I've got everything I need as far as equipment
is concerned. I have a Garmin SL-30 for Com/Nav and a Garmin GTX-327 for Mode
C transponder. All of the other equipment and functionality is provided by
the GRT Horizon HX sytems including the encoder, attitude, airspeed, altitude,
compass, etc, etc. I do not have any steam gauges or other flight instruments
other than what is provided by GRT through an HX installation.
My question is can my RV-8 be approved for IFR flight with this compliment of GRT
HX specific instrumentation? Or, would I need to have a TSO'd encoder and/or
other TSO'd pieces such as rate-of-turn, slip, sensitive altimeter, artificial
horizon, direction gyro, etc?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)... |
Dear Listers,
I wanted to check out the operation of all the various systems on the RV-8 now
that the engine is running. For example, comparing the fuel flow and fuel pressure
readings between the FuelChec DX and the GRT EFIS. I also wanted to run
the engine up a little and make sure the CHT and EGT's were coming into a normal
range and the all of the probes were working. Also, I wanted to see the oil
pressure and temps in normal ranges after a bit of running. Finally, I wanted
to check the engine RPM with the new TruTach II hand held optic tachometer.
On April 13 2010 I hopped in the pilot's seat and fired up the IO-390 and went
though some checks. I videoed the procedure and used the intercom to call out
the various readings I was observing. If you select the 1080p version of the
YouTube video, you can actually read most of the values right off the GRT EFIS
displays! Towards the end of the video some music starts to play. This is
coming from the Kenwood via the MP3 files on the 64GB thumb drive plugged into
the panel via the PS3000 Intercom and is exactly what I'm hearing in the headphones.
YouTube Video (Select higher resolutions 480p/760p/1080p for clearer picture):
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA
PS - Video was edited with Adobe Premiere CS4 on a Windows Vista 64 system.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Signed Off! |
HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon,
Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the
aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends
from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly!
YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close! How
exciting!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Signed Off! |
Congratulations Matt!
Welcome to the 25% Club.
Vince H.
Washington
RV8 N8432 flying
> Date: Thu=2C 22 Apr 2010 13:57:07 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics
.com=3B rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: N998RV Signed Off!
>
>
> HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
>
> Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this after
thiness Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was
made in the aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agre
ed upon and extends from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and
back to Livermore.
>
> Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seage
r ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that=2C its
time to test fly!
>
> YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close
! How exciting!
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb
ox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Very cool, Matt. Congratulations!!
Stan Sutterfield
Don not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Senegal <ssenegal(at)sanbrunocable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
Congradulations Matt!
One day I hope to be there.
Regards,
Steve
(650) 346 6967
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 22, 2010, at 1:57 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
>
> Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this
> Special Airworthiness Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the
> obligatory entry was made in the aircraft's logbook. A special
> Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends from Livermore
> to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
>
> Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike
> Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after
> that, its time to test fly!
>
> YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this
> close! How exciting!
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
> <2010.04.22 - RV-8 - N998RV Signed Off.jpg>
> <2010.04.22 - RV-8 - N998RV Phase One Test Area.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
Congratulations, Matt.-Good luck with the transition training and testing
.-=0A=0AI hope to be flying my RV-8 in July.-=0A=0ABreece Nesbitt=0AN28
117=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Matt Dralle <dra
lle(at)matronics.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv7
-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, April 22, 2010 4:
57:07 PM=0ASubject: RV8-List: N998RV Signed Off!=0A=0A=0AHOBBS Meter: 2452
Construction Hours=0A=0AIts official!- RV-8 N998RV was officially signed
was issued my Special Airworthiness Certificate and Repairman Certificate
and the obligatory entry was made in the aircraft's logbook.- A special P
hase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends from Livermore to Stock
ton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.=0A=0ANext week I go up t
o Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansai
rcraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly! =0A
=0AYAHOO!!!- I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this c
lose!- How exciting!=0A=0A=0AMatt Dralle=0ARV-8 #82880 N998RV=0Ahttp://ww
w.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/Mat
tsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel=0AStatus: Final Bits / Inspection
/ Test Flight=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Gas Cap O-Ring lubricant |
Hello=2C
The gas caps on my RV8 have become impossible to close after refueling.
I have traced the problem to the O-ring not sliding out as it should. Actua
lly not sliding at all.
I temporarily fixed the problem by rubbing oil on the O-Ring but would like
to know if anyone has come up with a better solution.
Otherwise=2C I will be putting oil or gas (from archives) on the O-ring aft
er most fill ups.
Thanks=2C
VinceH
Washington
RV8 N8432 50 hrs.
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hot
mail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=P
ID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Difani" <t6pilot(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap O-Ring lubricant |
Vince:
I use Fuel Lube to lubricate my O rings in the fuel cap. It won't wash
away with fuel slosing.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent Himsl
To: RV8 Builder's Group
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 12:51 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Gas Cap O-Ring lubricant
Hello,
The gas caps on my RV8 have become impossible to close after
refueling.
I have traced the problem to the O-ring not sliding out as it should.
Actually not sliding at all.
I temporarily fixed the problem by rubbing oil on the O-Ring but would
like to know if anyone has come up with a better solution.
Otherwise, I will be putting oil or gas (from archives) on the O-ring
after most fill ups.
Thanks,
VinceH
Washington
RV8 N8432 50 hrs.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts
with Hotmail. Get busy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap O-Ring lubricant |
I take mine fully apart every couple of years and use fuel lube to
lubricate mine....
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 24, 2010, at 12:51 PM, Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Hello,
> The gas caps on my RV8 have become impossible to close after
> refueling.
>
> I have traced the problem to the O-ring not sliding out as it
> should. Actually not sliding at all.
>
> I temporarily fixed the problem by rubbing oil on the O-Ring but
> would like to know if anyone has come up with a better solution.
>
> Otherwise, I will be putting oil or gas (from archives) on the O-
> ring after most fill ups.
>
> Thanks,
>
> VinceH
> Washington
> RV8 N8432 50 hrs.
>
> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts
> with Hotmail. Get busy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap O-Ring lubricant |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Marvel mystery oil works well too, though requires it to be reapplied
once in a while.
On 4/24/10, Michael Kraus wrote:
> I take mine fully apart every couple of years and use fuel lube to
> lubricate mine....
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2010, at 12:51 PM, Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> The gas caps on my RV8 have become impossible to close after
>> refueling.
>>
>> I have traced the problem to the O-ring not sliding out as it
>> should. Actually not sliding at all.
>>
>> I temporarily fixed the problem by rubbing oil on the O-Ring but
>> would like to know if anyone has come up with a better solution.
>>
>> Otherwise, I will be putting oil or gas (from archives) on the O-
>> ring after most fill ups.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> VinceH
>> Washington
>> RV8 N8432 50 hrs.
>>
>> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts
>> with Hotmail. Get busy.
>>
>>
>>
>
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - First Taxi Tests! |
Here are three videos of the very first taxi test for RV-8 N998RV! Brakes worked
good and ground handling was excellent. This is a short trip down to the West
end of the field where the compass rose is. The GRT electronic Magnetometers
needed to be calibrated.
First Taxi Test - Run 1
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=11578GQkg3Y
There were some issues getting the #2 Magnetometer to calibrate on the first run
down to the compass rose. We taxied back to the hangar (no video since Craig
was shooting stills with the Nikon on this trip). After taking the tail fairing
off, pulling out both Magnetometers, and pulling out all three EFISs, I realized
that I had the system wired such that calibration of the #1 Magnetometer
has to be done from the #1 EFIS, and calibration of the #2 Magnetometer has to
be done from the #2 EFIS. Its an issue with the serial output lines from the
EFIS and the fact that you can't calibrate two Magnetometers at once.
I gave it a little extra throttle and got the tail up a couple of times on this
run! Sweet!
First Taxi Test - Run 2
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=N1LfnHiN4tM
Both Magnetometers were calibrated and it was getting late and cold. We headed
back to the hangar to call it a day. Be sure to wait for the end of the video
as there is a shot with the Sunset in the background that is pretty awesome.
Second Taxi Test - Run 3
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=QfC2R5ChuS4
What a great day!! Thanks to Craig for the help and camera work!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Third Taxi Test Video (Brakes Over Heat!)... |
On the third taxi test, I headed out to the main runway at Livermore, 25R and ask
the tower for a high-speed taxi test with no take off. It was approved as
requested and went great. There was about a 15-20 knot head wind at about 270
which made it even more fun. The RV-8 handled great and it was definitely ready
to take off. I only got to about 1/3 power and it would have taken off with
about 1/2 throttle probably. Oh my... What will FULL throttle be like!? Now
that's exciting! Be sure to watch the Part 2 of this video because as the
music gets more intense, so does the testing!
Third Taxi Test - Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=pnz31m6aVEQ
After the taxi back on the regular taxi way, the tower offered to let me run back
the other direction on the runway! I wasn't sure that's really what he was
suggesting and I had to verify that's what he really meant. It was pretty cool
and saved a lot of time. With the 15-20 knot tailwind, though, I probably would
have been better off just using the taxi way. Now you'll notice the music
is getting a bit more intense. Be sure to watch Part 3 because that's where this
taxi test REALLY get's interesting...
Third Taxi Test - Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=5zheOkSHfX4
As you'll see in that part of the third taxi test, I lost the brakes. As I'm taxing
off the runway I noticed that there was smoke coming out of both the left
and right sides. At the time, I really wasn't sure what caused the brakes to
get so hot. But, after watching the video a couple of time and recalling back
to what I was doing, I'm positive that I was dragging the brakes on those down-wind
trips. I even remember thinking at one point, "oh, I'm riding the brakes".
Doesn't seem like they should get so hot as to start smoking, but perhaps
it was a combination of being new, over worked, and a bit of brake fluid leaking
out and hitting the discs. Anyway, my comment at the end of the video is
kind of funny. It wasn't at the time, mind you... :-)
Third Taxi Test - Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=57W-O8905cg
After I hosed the wheel pants and brakes down and got things cooled off and no
longer smoking, I had to push the plane back to the hangar from the wash rack,
which isn't too far, but still kind of a long ways at the end of a day. As I
was pushing it back I noticed that there was brake fluid leaking out of the right
brake. I pushed the plane about 1/2 the way into the hangar and took the
wheel pants off. Once I got the leaks stopped, I pushed the plane the rest of
the way in. It was kind of a demoralizing sight to see the brake calipers smoked
like that, but it could have been a lot worse.
A word to the wise - STAY OFF THE BRAKES!!! Its really easy to drag them and this
video is a document to what can happen.
Third Taxi Test - Epilogue
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=JlQjRWnbO2c
The brakes were pretty toasted as were the sidewalls of the tires. There were
little bits of rubber coming off the sidewall around the wheel. The brake pads
definitely looked worn down some compared to the set I have on the partially
completed RV-4. So in the interest of not holding up the test flight progress,
I opted to use the wheels, brakes, and tires from the RV-4 project to replace
the smoked components on the RV-8. I'll order a new set for the RV-4 later.
I spent the day jacking up the plane and swapping pieces. I also took the opportunity
to remove the right master cylinder and fix the pesky high-pressure side
leak. Here's a video of the wheels, brakes, and tires all replaced and ready
for testing.
Third Taxi Test - Post Epilogue
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=dL92Hwi0xnE
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Matt,
You are going to be very impressed with the full power takeoff. On your
first takeoff, don't rush the throttle forward as you might do in a Cessna.
If you do, the P factor and torque will turn the airplane. Feed power in
smoothly and quickly, but not suddenly - if that makes sense. I was
surprised at the power on my first takeoff. So much was happening so fast that
I
was at liftoff speed before I'd checked all the gauges.
I had the same smoking brakes during my taxi test. I did a long taxi and
then a run down the runway. I had obviously been dragging the brakes, just
as you did, and mine were smoking after clearing the runway. Fortunately,
I did only one "abort" down the runway rather than two and my brakes did
not get as hot as yours. I believe we need to advise first time builders
who are ready to do a taxi test about the problem of inadvertently dragging
the brakes. Dragging the brakes is very easy to do and it overheats the
brakes and makes a huge mess. I am now very careful about dragging the brakes
- although normally you only taxi out to the runway and as soon as you
take off the airflow rapidly cools the brakes. The problem will occur if you
have to abort the takeoff - better have a fire bottle handy.
I believe new builders should do taxi tests with the wheel pants off.
That allows for better brake cooling. I did my taxi test with the pants on
and the restricted airflow around the brakes contributed to the problem.
Stan Sutterfield
Oh my... What will FULL throttle be like!?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net> |
I don't think that Van approves the "High Speed" Taxi. And I agree.
Too many times when people have found themselves off the ground, totally
unprepared.
You also saw the power of TO's and Landings down wind. I don't think there
is an airplane made today that allows more than a 10 knot tailwind.
MARTIN SOBEL
FAASTeam Lead Representative
Captain (Ret) TWA
FlightSafety International (Ret)
941-359-8693
941-355-7732 (Fax)
941-539-4806 (Cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Allington" <RV8(at)summergrove.net> |
Beware of hot brakes also. Have fun. We are loving ours.
Wally Allington
RV-8 N732W
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Martin Sobel
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 11:49 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Matt:
I don't think that Van approves the "High Speed" Taxi. And I agree.
Too many times when people have found themselves off the ground, totally
unprepared.
You also saw the power of TO's and Landings down wind. I don't think there
is an airplane made today that allows more than a 10 knot tailwind.
MARTIN SOBEL
FAASTeam Lead Representative
Captain (Ret) TWA
FlightSafety International (Ret)
941-359-8693
941-355-7732 (Fax)
941-539-4806 (Cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Third Taxi Test Video (Brakes Over Heat!)... |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Matt:
Don't push your luck with the taxi tests - you got lucky this time - maybe
not so lucky next time. There's a good reason Van does not like high speed
taxi tests - people have been bending airplanes - or maybe burning them.
Take a deep breath and fly the airplane. OK - enough with the preaching.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A N307TB
138 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> On the third taxi test, I headed out to the main runway at Livermore, 25R
> and ask the tower for a high-speed taxi test with no take off. It was
> approved as requested and went great. There was about a 15-20 knot head
> wind at about 270 which made it even more fun. The RV-8 handled great and
> it was definitely ready to take off. I only got to about 1/3 power and it
> would have taken off with about 1/2 throttle probably. Oh my... What will
> FULL throttle be like!? Now that's exciting! Be sure to watch the Part 2 of
> this video because as the music gets more intense, so does the testing!
>
> Third Taxi Test - Part 1
>
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=pnz31m6aVEQ
>
>
> After the taxi back on the regular taxi way, the tower offered to let me
> run back the other direction on the runway! I wasn't sure that's really
> what he was suggesting and I had to verify that's what he really meant. It
> was pretty cool and saved a lot of time. With the 15-20 knot tailwind,
> though, I probably would have been better off just using the taxi way. Now
> you'll notice the music is getting a bit more intense. Be sure to watch
> Part 3 because that's where this taxi test REALLY get's interesting...
>
> Third Taxi Test - Part 2
>
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=5zheOkSHfX4
>
>
> As you'll see in that part of the third taxi test, I lost the brakes. As
> I'm taxing off the runway I noticed that there was smoke coming out of both
> the left and right sides. At the time, I really wasn't sure what caused the
> brakes to get so hot. But, after watching the video a couple of time and
> recalling back to what I was doing, I'm positive that I was dragging the
> brakes on those down-wind trips. I even remember thinking at one point,
> "oh, I'm riding the brakes". Doesn't seem like they should get so hot as to
> start smoking, but perhaps it was a combination of being new, over worked,
> and a bit of brake fluid leaking out and hitting the discs. Anyway, my
> comment at the end of the video is kind of funny. It wasn't at the time,
> mind you... :-)
>
> Third Taxi Test - Part 3
>
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=57W-O8905cg
>
>
> After I hosed the wheel pants and brakes down and got things cooled off and
> no longer smoking, I had to push the plane back to the hangar from the wash
> rack, which isn't too far, but still kind of a long ways at the end of a
> day. As I was pushing it back I noticed that there was brake fluid leaking
> out of the right brake. I pushed the plane about 1/2 the way into the
> hangar and took the wheel pants off. Once I got the leaks stopped, I pushed
> the plane the rest of the way in. It was kind of a demoralizing sight to
> see the brake calipers smoked like that, but it could have been a lot worse.
>
> A word to the wise - STAY OFF THE BRAKES!!! Its really easy to drag them
> and this video is a document to what can happen.
>
> Third Taxi Test - Epilogue
>
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=JlQjRWnbO2c
>
>
> The brakes were pretty toasted as were the sidewalls of the tires. There
> were little bits of rubber coming off the sidewall around the wheel. The
> brake pads definitely looked worn down some compared to the set I have on
> the partially completed RV-4. So in the interest of not holding up the test
> flight progress, I opted to use the wheels, brakes, and tires from the RV-4
> project to replace the smoked components on the RV-8. I'll order a new set
> for the RV-4 later.
>
> I spent the day jacking up the plane and swapping pieces. I also took the
> opportunity to remove the right master cylinder and fix the pesky
> high-pressure side leak. Here's a video of the wheels, brakes, and tires
> all replaced and ready for testing.
>
> Third Taxi Test - Post Epilogue
>
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=dL92Hwi0xnE
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Taxi tests are fine so long as they are not high speed. The definition of
high speed depends on the length of the runway. What Van is concerned
about is guys doing a high speed test and inadvertently getting airborne on a
flight they are not prepared for. His concern is well founded.
However, if the test run is done on an 8000' runway, the danger diminishes
greatly. One could actually get airborne and land again safely on that
much runway. I'm not advocating taxi tests that are so fast as to get
airborne. I believe 45 KIAS is more than enough for a taxi test. You will be
able to get the nose to pitch up (or raise the tail) without the danger
involved with an unplanned liftoff. And a long runway, even if done downwind,
allows the airplane to slow in idle power without overuse of the brakes.
I believe hot brakes on RVs occurs because the pilot (I did it)
inadvertently rides the brakes during taxi and the wheel pant restricts air flow
from
cooling the brakes. A single taxi run is all that should be attempted on
one day. Two runs in a short time are almost guaranteed to overheat the
brakes.
We takeoff and land into the wind due to limited runway lengths. If one
had 3 miles of runway for an RV, then landing with or into the wind makes
little difference. The only difference would be ground speed at touchdown
which might cause a tiny bit of additional tire wear on downwind landings.
However, in most cases, our runway lengths are limited thus dictating taking
off and landing into the wind for safety.
Stan Sutterfield
I don't think that Van approves the "High Speed" Taxi. And I agree.
Too many times when people have found themselves off the ground, totally
unprepared.
You also saw the power of TO's and Landings down wind. I don't think there
is an airplane made today that allows more than a 10 knot tailwind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | edward Clegg <edwclg(at)gmail.com> |
Just wondering, Is that a new engine and if it is has it been run on a test
stand?
Ed Clegg
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 8:50 PM, wrote:
> Taxi tests are fine so long as they are not high speed. The definition
> of high speed depends on the length of the runway. What Van is concerned
> about is guys doing a high speed test and inadvertently getting airborne on
> a flight they are not prepared for. His concern is well founded.
> However, if the test run is done on an 8000' runway, the danger diminishes
> greatly. One could actually get airborne and land again safely on that much
> runway. I'm not advocating taxi tests that are so fast as to get airborne.
> I believe 45 KIAS is more than enough for a taxi test. You will be able to
> get the nose to pitch up (or raise the tail) without the danger involved
> with an unplanned liftoff. And a long runway, even if done downwind, allows
> the airplane to slow in idle power without overuse of the brakes.
> I believe hot brakes on RVs occurs because the pilot (I did it)
> inadvertently rides the brakes during taxi and the wheel pant restricts air
> flow from cooling the brakes. A single taxi run is all that should be
> attempted on one day. Two runs in a short time are almost guaranteed to
> overheat the brakes.
> We takeoff and land into the wind due to limited runway lengths. If one
> had 3 miles of runway for an RV, then landing with or into the wind
> makes little difference. The only difference would be ground speed at
> touchdown which might cause a tiny bit of additional tire wear on downwind
> landings. However, in most cases, our runway lengths are limited thus
> dictating taking off and landing into the wind for safety.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> I don't think that Van approves the "High Speed" Taxi. And I agree.
>
> Too many times when people have found themselves off the ground, totally
> unprepared.
>
> You also saw the power of TO's and Landings down wind. I don't think there
> is an airplane made today that allows more than a 10 knot tailwind.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net> |
My question exactly. My engine builder wanted me to PUSH my airplane
to the runway before the first flight, after a few very short test
runs, primarily looking for leaks. Prior to that, it was run on a
test stand for almost an hour, with sufficient cooling provided.
Jim Gray
N747JG RV-8 180 hours
On Apr 30, 2010, at 9:12 AM, edward Clegg wrote:
> Just wondering, Is that a new engine and if it is has it been run on
> a test stand?
> Ed Clegg
>
> On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 8:50 PM, wrote:
> Taxi tests are fine so long as they are not high speed. The
> definition of high speed depends on the length of the runway. What
> Van is concerned about is guys doing a high speed test and
> inadvertently getting airborne on a flight they are not prepared
> for. His concern is well founded.
> However, if the test run is done on an 8000' runway, the danger
> diminishes greatly. One could actually get airborne and land again
> safely on that much runway. I'm not advocating taxi tests that are
> so fast as to get airborne. I believe 45 KIAS is more than enough
> for a taxi test. You will be able to get the nose to pitch up (or
> raise the tail) without the danger involved with an unplanned
> liftoff. And a long runway, even if done downwind, allows the
> airplane to slow in idle power without overuse of the brakes.
> I believe hot brakes on RVs occurs because the pilot (I did it)
> inadvertently rides the brakes during taxi and the wheel pant
> restricts air flow from cooling the brakes. A single taxi run is
> all that should be attempted on one day. Two runs in a short time
> are almost guaranteed to overheat the brakes.
> We takeoff and land into the wind due to limited runway lengths. If
> one had 3 miles of runway for an RV, then landing with or into the
> wind makes little difference. The only difference would be ground
> speed at touchdown which might cause a tiny bit of additional tire
> wear on downwind landings. However, in most cases, our runway
> lengths are limited thus dictating taking off and landing into the
> wind for safety.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
> I don't think that Van approves the "High Speed" Taxi. And I agree.
>
> Too many times when people have found themselves off the ground,
> totally
> unprepared.
>
> You also saw the power of TO's and Landings down wind. I don't think
> there
> is an airplane made today that allows more than a 10 knot tailwind.
>
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
>I think Matt's is a new IO-390 also.
Yes, it is. However, I had Bart run it for 11.5 hours on the test stand. This
gets it well past the most critical part of the break-in. The difference in
cost was basically the cost of fuel. Well worth the investment and piece of mind.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew M Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
tried to post this to matt's channel as a link
but i can't seem to post links in comments sections
of youtube .. maybe they set it up that way
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1iOcDSVin0
some theme music for the sky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Snip>>The difference in cost was basically the cost of fuel
Correct for Bart/Aerosportpower.com, their pricing for additional run time
is the way to go (IMHO). Most charge much more / hour.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Taxi Test
>I think Matt's is a new IO-390 also.
Yes, it is. However, I had Bart run it for 11.5 hours on the test stand.
This gets it well past the most critical part of the break-in. The
difference in cost was basically the cost of fuel. Well worth the
investment and piece of mind.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 1 - Getting There... |
The trip to Vernonia Oregon was pleasantly uneventful and rather relaxing, actually.
The Flight on Horizon Air was smooth and the plane left Oakland Airport
right on time and even arrived at Portland Airport 10 minutes early. I was also
pleasantly surprised that the Enterprise rental car establishment at the airport
had a brand new 2010 Chevy Camero's in the fleet. I've been wanting to
drive one since they came out and quickly exchanged my "luxury car" reservation
for the sweet, Silver number seen in the pictures. Its a very nice car. Plenty
of power, handles reasonably well although it tends to over-steer in the
corners, rides well, and has a "very nice" factory sound system. The system
has XM radio support, but Enterprise doesn't maintain a subscription to the service
which is a big-old fat bummer in my opinion. FM radio is a jungle; ack.
Anyway, back to the trip... It was around 2pm by the the time I got on the road,
so my belly was telling me it was time for a refill. I noticed this nice looking
place along the highway called Rose's Restaurant and Bakery and it sounded
like what I was in the mood for, and it turned out my hunch was right. I
ordered a big 'ol greasy BBQ cheese burger that was as big as a mountain and very
tasty. They have some awesome looking deserts there too, but I resisted.
I don't know why I resisted, mind you... Just as I was leaving, the sun turned
to dark gray clouds and then it just started to hail like crazy! It was pretty
cool.
It was about an hour and a half drive from the Portland Airport out to Vernonia.
Along the way, I snapped a couple of pictures of a sweet glider airport by
the highway. The green fields with the airplanes in the background was quite
a sight. I thought wistfully of the RV-8 trapped in the hangar back at home...
Once you turn off the main highway heading towards Vernonia proper, the scenery
is quite spectacular. The filtered sun through the various clouds and patches
of rain made the trip just that much more enjoyable. Well, that and the purr
of the Camero's V8. I'm just saying...
I rolled into Vernonia and the Garmin GPS that came with the car took me right
up to the front door of the Rockcreek Bed & Breakfast. What a lovely place!
The pictures of the interior are the living quarters for the guest. There's just
the one bedroom, so I pretty much had the run of the areas shown. The owners
live in the back half of the house, but the two areas are divided and so the
guest's front half is very private.
Patricia Davis, the curator of the Rockcreek B&B was very nice and made sure everything
was just right. She promised a big breakfast in the morning with all
of my favorite things, so I'm looking forward to that!! :-)
If you're coming to Vernonia for your transition training with Mike Seager, you
own it to yourself to stay here at the Rock Creek B&B. You won't be sorry.
The accommodations are outstanding and the price is very reasonable. Here is
their web site:
http://www.rockcreekbb.com/
After I got settled in, I drove out to the Vernonia airport and looked around until
I found Mike's hanger. I knocked on the door and found him there still and
we had a nice conversation and he showed me his Model T restoration project.
Very cool! I'll have to get some pictures of it tomorrow.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 2 - Sessions 1 & |
2...
As luck would have it, Thursday morning it was raining in Vernonia Oregon.
Go figure. After a wonderful breakfast at the Rock Creek B&B, I headed out
to the Vernonia airport to meet with Mike Seager at 10am for my first RV
transition training lesson. We spent the first hour in the office for some
"chalk-talk" all about RVs. Mike went over RV speeds, attitudes (the
airplane's, not the pilot's, btw), and other things related to flying an RV
safely. It was a very good primer on the RV.
By now, it was only raining "a little bit", so we headed out to N477RV, an
RV-7, and hopped in. We took off to the West, with a fairly stiff wind. I
nice left hand turn and we headed out toward Scappoose. Mike took me
though some aircraft handling such as turns and climbs and descents and got
me used to the flight controls on the RV. As is typical with most new RV
pilots, I was over-controlling some. The air was *really* bumpy and I was
really working hard to keep the plane level with all the turbulence. Then
Mike showed me how to just let the plane fly itself though those bumps by
relaxing my grip and not constantly over-correcting. Wow! That's was a
lot easier! We headed over to the Scappoose airport and set up to shoot
some landings. There was a "nice", almost 90 degree cross wind there to go
with all of the turbulence, so it was quite a work out both as a pilot and
on my stomach. I didn't barf, but I sure wanted to... After 6 stop and go
landings at Scappoose, we headed back to the Vernonia airport.
Mike has been restoring a 1923 Model T Ford and he decided that he was going
to take it home for lunch that day. What a sweet car! Friday afternoon he
even took me for a ride! Considering they started making Model T's around
1907, it rode surprising well. With the fully enclosed cabin and heater,
it must have seemed like a space-ship compared to the horse and buggy that
most were still using at the time. The little car has an amazing amount of
power. There are a myriad of levers and pedals that must be negotiated to
drive the thing. Most peculiar is that fact that the throttle is not a
pedal, but rather a lever on the steering column that kind of looks like a
turn signal.
Mike's also been into Radio Control model airplanes and has a number of them
hanging from the ceiling in his hanger. Some of them were simply massive
and frankly looked like you could put the family cat or dog on one and take
them for a ride of a life time.
In the afternoon, I headed back out the Vernonia airport at 3PM for my
second lesson. The weather was better, but the report for Scappoose was
for even more wind than in the morning. So, we headed out to the
McMinville airport South of Vernonia about 15 minutes by RV.
http://www.macairclub.com/Welcome.html McMinville is where the Spruce
Goose is now stored and there is a large aircraft museum there.
The wind was fairly calm at McMinville and so we did about 12 stop and go
landings and then headed back the Vernonia airport. BTW, the Vernonia
airport has a large hill on the East end of the field and so you have to
sort of fly a dog leg around the hill and then straighten out right at the
last minute to land on the grass strip. By the end of Friday, I had it
down! Mike said, if you can land at Vernonia, you can land anywhere! :-)
After the second lesson on Thursday, I headed down to Hillsboro to meet some
long time RV-buddies at the Rock Creek Tavern. Don Wentz and Jerry
Springer were there and I met a new RV-buddy named Ryan along with his wife
and daughter. The Rock Creek Tavern is quite a place with lots of
atmosphere and even a live band on a Thursday night. The giant BBQ cheese
burger was nothing short of awesome.
By the time I got home, I was bushed. The giant, comfortable bed at the
Rock Creek B&B felt so good. I didn't wake up until 8 the next morning!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 3 - Session 3... |
Friday morning I headed back out to the Vernonia airport for lesson number 3.
Mike asked me if I'd like to fly the RV-6A this time since it has a constant speed
prop similar to what my RV-8 has. The RV-7 we'd flown the day before has
a fixed pitch prop. Some constant-speed time sounded like a great idea, so we
piled in and took off. I'm really glad that I got some time in the tricycle
gear version of the RV as well. I would seem that it would be just like the
tail wheel version, but easier. In reality, however, landing and taking off are
different propositions and Mike took me though the steps. I'm also glad that
I got the training with the constant-speed prop. The angle of decent on final
approach is significantly greater with the CS prop and its somewhat disconcerting
to be pointing the airplane's nose that far down on final. Its definitely
not a flat approach ala a Cessna 172 or even like the Citibrias I've been
flying.
We flew out towards Scappoose and did some slow flight and climbing turns along
with some power off and power on stalls. I was amazed at how far up you have
to point the nose on the RV to get it to stall with full power. Way up. I mean
WAY up. The stalls were gentle and predictable, but that second stall if
you don't get the nose pushed down far enough was a little weird. Other than
that, the stall handling and recovery were pretty text-book.
We headed over to Scappoose and shot about 8 stop and go landings. Again, kind
of a stiff cross wind, but there wasn't too much turbulence so that was good.
After that, we headed back to Vernonia and I made a pretty good landing on the
grass strip!
I didn't get any pictures of the RV-6A we flew today, but attached are some additional
pictures of the RV-7 I was flying.
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 3 - Session 4... |
By the time the afternoon session on Friday rolled around, the weather was looking
pretty good. Still cloudy, but clouds were fairly high - around 3500ft -
and the wind wasn't blowing too bad. We got back in the RV-7 and took off and
headed West toward the Astoria airport out on the coast. We shot a number of
stop and go landings here and then headed out to the Oregon Coastline proper
at about 800 feet. I got some great pictures from plane as we were flying along.
It was amazingly beautiful and I commented to Mike that there are very few
people that have had the opportunity to experience the beauty of the coastline
from that perspective. Spectacular.
We shot a full stop landing at the Seaside Airport (56S) and then headed down the
coast a bit further to the Nehalem Bay State Airport (3S7) and shot a landing
there as well. From there we headed back to Vernonia where I managed to squeak
out yet another pretty good landing!
All toll across the 2 days and 4 sessions, I flew 6.0 hours with Mike and made
34 takeoffs and landings. I have to say that I feel much more confident now in
the RV. I absolutely cannot recommend this experience highly enough to anyone
who is getting ready to fly an RV for the first or near the first time. Whether
its for an insurance requirement or not, you cannot afford to not take the
time to learn the specifics of flying an RV aircraft. Particularly if you
only have Cessna or Piper time, but even if you have a fair amount of tail-dragger
time in aircraft such as the Citibria like I did. The training is invaluable
and frankly a must.
I also cannot speak highly enough of Mike Seager. What a pleasure it was flying
with him these last two days. His years of experience really shows and his
calm, yet firm manner was perfect for the task at hand. If you are about ready
to fly your RV, give Mike a call and schedule some time to get checked out.
You won't be sorry you did. I told Mike as I was handing him the check for his
effort, "You know Mike, this was the best money I've spent on my RV-8 project",
and I truly meant that.
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Flies - Teaser Shot! |
Yahooo!!
Mr RV-8 flew today for the first time!! Yahoo! .5 hours at 1pm and 1.0 hours
again at 4:30pm! There's a ton more pictures and some sweet videos, but this
will have to do for now... More to come!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Dear Listers,
Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm, RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the first time!
The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked as expected.
The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase in the amount of
available Up trim, and a decrease in the upper RPM limit on the Hartzell prop.
After a smooth takeoff, I climbed out and circled the airport at about three
to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits then came around and landed
making a nice three-point landing with no bounce. The plane handled excellent
and the power from the IO-390 and the Hartzell can only be experienced to be
believed! What a great combination!
I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for producing such
an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List friends for their
help and assistance during the project. And of course, a special thanks to
all of my personal friends that have come over and lent at hand during the construction
- I own you guys a ride and a $100 hamburger when I get the Phase 1
time flown off!
Probably in the Fall or Winter some time, plan to take it in for painting. I'm
planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegant golden trim
with a nice clear coat.
For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is 100% worth
the time and effort you put into the project. That first flight will be the
experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon forget!
Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the engine, panel,
and interior. Below, I've listed the system highlights.
Build Hours: 2457 Hours
Build Time: 23 Months
Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
Governor: PCU5000
Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
Steam Gauges: NONE!
Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual Magnetometers
Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX & XM Module For Kenwood DNX-8120
Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim Module
Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
Radio: Garmin SL-30
Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
and receive calls through headsets)
Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
Carpet: Custom design - Cut & Sewn by Classic Aero
Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve & PSI
Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Th.Girault" <nithrium(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Flicitation de Paris Matt, ton RV8 est une vrai tuerie !!!
Thierry RV8 finish Paris, France
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 3:26 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos!
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm, RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the
> first time! The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked
> as expected. The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase
> in the amount of available Up trim, and a decrease in the upper RPM limit
> on the Hartzell prop. After a smooth takeoff, I climbed out and circled
> the airport at about three to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits
> then came around and landed making a nice three-point landing with no
> bounce. The plane handled excellent and the power from the IO-390 and the
> Hartzell can only be experienced to be believed! What a great
> combination!
>
> I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for
> producing such an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List
> friends for their help and assistance during the project. And of course,
> a special thanks to all of my personal friends that have come over and
> lent at hand during the construction - I own you guys a ride and a $100
> hamburger when I get the Phase 1 time flown off!
>
> Probably in the Fall or Winter some time, plan to take it in for painting.
> I'm planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegant
> golden trim with a nice clear coat.
>
> For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is
> 100% worth the time and effort you put into the project. That first
> flight will be the experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon
> forget!
>
> Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the
> engine, panel, and interior. Below, I've listed the system highlights.
>
> Build Hours: 2457 Hours
> Build Time: 23 Months
> Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
> Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
> Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
> Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
> Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
> Governor: PCU5000
> Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
> Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
> Steam Gauges: NONE!
> Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual
> Magnetometers
> Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX & XM Module For Kenwood
> DNX-8120
> Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim
> Module
> Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
> GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
> Radio: Garmin SL-30
> Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
> Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
> Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
> XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
> Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
> and receive calls through headsets)
> Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
> Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
> Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
> Carpet: Custom design - Cut & Sewn by Classic Aero
> Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve & PSI
> Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flight
>
>
> Email analys par Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Version de la base de donnes : 6.14940
> http://www.pctools.com/fr/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
Email analys par Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Version de la base de donnes : 6.14940
http://www.pctools.com/fr/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
| From: | "panhandler1956" <panhandler1956(at)gmail.com> |
Awesome Matt! Your bird is gorgeous! Turned out very very nice!
Have fun flying off phase 1.
--------
Brent O.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297015#297015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
| From: | "panhandler1956" <panhandler1956(at)gmail.com> |
Awesome Matt! Your bird is gorgeous! Turned out very very nice!
Have fun flying off phase 1.
--------
Brent O.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297016#297016
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronic Circuit Breakers on your EFIS |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
Vertical Power, along with its EFIS partners, recently announced the VP-X Electronic
Circuit Breaker System.
The VP-X uses proven electronic circuit breakers to simplify wiring and provide
advanced electrical system capabilities. Monitor the status of individual devices
and the entire electrical system right from your EFIS. Avionics, lights,
trim, and flaps can all be controlled using standard switches or the EFIS.
The VP-X works with Advanced Flight Systems, Grand Rapids Technologies HX and HX
Sport, and MGL Voyager/Odyssey Gen 2 EFIS products.
Click to learn more. http://www.verticalpower.com/VPX.html
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com "Move up to a modern electrical system"
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297359#297359
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What propeller was involved in accident? |
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com> |
The NTSB web site reports that a RV-8 that was fitted with a "3-bladed
wooden propeller" lost one propeller blade in flight at or near
Prague, OK on May 06, 2010. The private pilot, the sole occupant,
received minor injuries and the aircraft sustained substantial damage
during a forced landing.
Fortunately the pilot only received "minor injuries" according to the report.
The question that I have is does anyone know what propeller make and
model this aircraft was equipped with?
Thanks in advance,
Dale
RV-8 90/90
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes (was: engine loping) |
At 07:26 AM 5/23/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>All I have to do to be ready for my DAR inspection is to calibrate my capacitive
fuel probes.
>--
>Tom Sargent
Hi Tom,
Which capacitive fuel probes do you have? I have the Princeton units that GRT
sells and haven't been able to even come close to getting them calibrated. Actually,
they went through the calibration fine (5 set points), but the readings
are completely erroneous. Sometimes they read full when the tanks are 1/2 empty.
Sometimes they read empty when the tanks are full. Sometimes they read,
well, whatever; usually not the actual amount of fuel. They are completely
useless. I've talked with Princeton, and they've offered no suggestions.
I'm not sure what to do at this point. Replacing the senders will likely require
removing the tanks which is no small job on the -7 and -8. Ack, this sucks.
I sure wish I'd just used the S&W float senders from Van's now.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Phase 1 Test Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
Tom,
If you have the Princeton probes, save yourself a LOT of grief and remove
them now and toss them in the trash. Replace them with floats. You'll be
much less grumpy.
I calibrated mine seven times. They still are not accurate - not even
close.
Stan Sutterfield
>All I have to do to be ready for my DAR inspection is to calibrate my
capacitive
fuel probes.
>--
>Tom Sargent
Hi Tom,
Which capacitive fuel probes do you have? I have the Princeton units that
GRT
sells and haven't been able to even come close to getting them calibrated.
Actually,
they went through the calibration fine (5 set points), but the readings
are completely erroneous. Sometimes they read full when the tanks are 1/2
empty.
Sometimes they read empty when the tanks are full. Sometimes they read,
well, whatever; usually not the actual amount of fuel. They are completely
useless. I've talked with Princeton, and they've offered no suggestions.
I'm not sure what to do at this point. Replacing the senders will likely
require
removing the tanks which is no small job on the -7 and -8. Ack, this
sucks.
I sure wish I'd just used the S&W float senders from Van's now.
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
Listers,
I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
accurate results. I did not use the rod type sensors. When I built the
tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of the fuel tanks. I
realize this method should be done during the construction phase of the
tanks.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 12:30 PM, wrote:
>
> Tom,
> If you have the Princeton probes, save yourself a LOT of grief and remove
> them now and toss them in the trash. Replace them with floats. You'll be
> much less grumpy.
> I calibrated mine seven times. They still are not accurate - not even
> close.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> >All I have to do to be ready for my DAR inspection is to calibrate my
> capacitive
> fuel probes.
>
> >--
> >Tom Sargent
>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Which capacitive fuel probes do you have? I have the Princeton units that
> GRT
> sells and haven't been able to even come close to getting them calibrated.
> Actually,
> they went through the calibration fine (5 set points), but the readings
> are completely erroneous. Sometimes they read full when the tanks are 1/2
> empty.
> Sometimes they read empty when the tanks are full. Sometimes they read,
> well, whatever; usually not the actual amount of fuel. They are completely
> useless. I've talked with Princeton, and they've offered no suggestions.
>
> I'm not sure what to do at this point. Replacing the senders will likely
> require
> removing the tanks which is no small job on the -7 and -8. Ack, this
> sucks.
> I sure wish I'd just used the S&W float senders from Van's now.
>
>
> Matt Dralle
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
Dick,
Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you please
sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Martin
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
Listers,
I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
accurate results. I did not use the rod type sensors. When I built the
tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of the fuel tanks. I
realize this method should be done during the construction phase of the
tanks.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
On Wed, 26 May 2010, Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> Dick,
> Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you please
> sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
> Jerry
I'm not flying yet, but have installed the flat plate sensors ordered
from here:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1274891104-316-30&browse=ei&product=ei-fuelgauge
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
I hope Dick will respond. I installed the flat plate sensors from Vans
in my stalled RV-8A project and have been wondering about how I can
convert the electrical information from the sensors to drive a fuel
gauge or electronic engine monitor.
Terry
Seattle
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Grimmonpre
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
Dick,
Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you please
sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Martin <mailto:martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
Listers,
=EF=BD
I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
accurate results.=EF=BD I did not use the rod type sensors.=EF=BD
When I built the tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of
the fuel tanks.=EF=BD I realize this method should be done during the
construction phase of the tanks.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I had the flat cap. plates from Van's in my RV-8 and they worked fine with
the EI fuel gauge. You need a converter between each tank and the gauge,
also from Vans.
*
*
*Capacitive frequency converter (one per tank required)*
Part Number = IE P-300C
Price = $45.00
I have the float gauges in the current project because it's a quick-build.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
> I hope Dick will respond. I installed the flat plate sensors from Vans i
n
> my stalled RV-8A project and have been wondering about how I can convert
the
> electrical information from the sensors to drive a fuel gauge or electron
ic
> engine monitor.
>
>
> Terry
>
> Seattle
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jerry Grimmonpre
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2010 6:29 AM
> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
>
>
> Dick,
>
> Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you
> please sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
>
> Jerry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Richard Martin
>
> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:07 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
>
>
> Listers,
>
> =EF=BD
>
> I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
> accurate results.=EF=BD I did not use the rod type sensors.=EF=BD W
hen I built the
> tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of the fuel tanks.=EF
=BD I
> realize this method should be done during the construction phase of the
> tanks.
>
> Dick Martin
>
> RV8 N233M
>
> the fast one
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Hi:
This email is intended for Richard Martin, RV-8, N233M
I'm one of those who is having problems with insanely inaccurate fuel level
readings on my GRT screen fuel gauges. I installed the flat plate,
capacitive sensors in the fuel tanks of my RV-7A at the time of
construction. Of course they measure capacitance, which the GRT EIS unit
cannot read. A set of Princeton converter units change capacitance to
voltage (0 to 4 volts as I recall) and feeds those values to the EIS box.
I'm not very technical but I understand that much.
In this latest exchange of emails on this subject I learned for the first
time that there are in fact two types of capacitive sending units: the flat
plate version (which I installed) and the rod version (a new one on me).
Now I'm wondering if the converter units which I installed are compatible
with the flate plate sending units. Neither Todd nor Sandy at GRT have eve
r
mentioned anything about two different types of sending units; and, you'd
certainly think they'd read the same capacitive value for a given fuel
level. And of course the converter boxes couldn't care less about flat
plate or rod type sending units; they just convert farads to volts. I do
know that there are two types of converter units; one has five set points
and one has two (that's the one I have.) Maybe I've got the wrong
converters.
Am I on to something here or is it just wishful thinking driven by
frustration? What's your take on this? Maybe yet another call to GRT is i
n
order.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
146 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
> I had the flat cap. plates from Van's in my RV-8 and they worked fine wit
h
> the EI fuel gauge. You need a converter between each tank and the gauge,
> also from Vans.
> *
> *
> *Capacitive frequency converter (one per tank required)*
> Part Number = IE P-300C
> Price = $45.00
>
> I have the float gauges in the current project because it's a quick-build
.
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
>
>> I hope Dick will respond. I installed the flat plate sensors from Vans
>> in my stalled RV-8A project and have been wondering about how I can conv
ert
>> the electrical information from the sensors to drive a fuel gauge or
>> electronic engine monitor.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry
>>
>> Seattle
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>> owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jerry Grimmonpre
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2010 6:29 AM
>> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
>>
>>
>>
>> Dick,
>>
>> Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you
>> please sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> *From:* Richard Martin
>>
>> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:07 AM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
>>
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> =EF=BD
>>
>> I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
>> accurate results.=EF=BD I did not use the rod type sensors.=EF=BD
When I built the
>> tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of the fuel tanks.=EF
=BD I
>> realize this method should be done during the construction phase of the
>> tanks.
>>
>> Dick Martin
>>
>> RV8 N233M
>>
>> the fast one
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>
>> **
>>
>> * *
>>
>> *et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: capacitive fuel probes |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
Jerry, call me @ 920 619 6968 and we can discuss this better. Dick Martin
On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> Dick,
> Your flat plate sensors sound very interesting ... would you
> please sketch-out what you did and scan it to the RV8 list?
> Jerry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Martin
> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:07 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV8-List: Re: capacitive fuel probes
>
> Listers,
> =EF=BD
> I now have 1900 hours on my capacitance fuel level senders with ultra
> accurate results.=EF=BD I did not use the rod type sensors.=EF=BD W
hen I built the
> tanks, I built them with flat plate sensors inside of the fuel tanks.=EF
=BD I
> realize this method should be done during the construction phase of the
> tanks.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Using Stainless Steel Tape on the flaps |
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com> |
I am sure that someone has used stainless steel tape (available from
JC Whitney) on the leading edge of the flaps rather then the UHMW tape
that Vans recommends/sells.
If you have, would you share your experience with that product.
Thanks and have a safe Memorial Day holiday.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Using Stainless Steel Tape on the flaps |
IMNSHO you are better off putting the tape UNDER the trailing edge of
the wing and not on the leading edge of the flap. I used the clear UHMW
1" width and with it hidden it works great.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 5/28/2010 11:41 AM, Dale Ellis wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis
>
> I am sure that someone has used stainless steel tape (available from
> JC Whitney) on the leading edge of the flaps rather then the UHMW tape
> that Vans recommends/sells.
>
> If you have, would you share your experience with that product.
>
> Thanks and have a safe Memorial Day holiday.
>
> Dale
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Livermore To Salinas In 30 Minutes... Phase 1 Pirep! |
Wow, what a beautiful evening for a flight in a brand new RV-8! The sky was clear;
the clouds were few, the wind was low. I decided to fly over to Salinas
airport and clocked in at exactly 30 minutes! I was down to about 1/3 tanks,
so I gassed up. Kind of pricey, though, at $4.75/gal. There's a really nice
cafe' there at the airport so I'll definitely be heading back there for a greasy
cheese burger at some point! In one of the hangers I peered in and saw not
only a sweet RV-8 in RED, but also a sweet RV-10! Turns out that both built
and owned by the same guy! Imagine, having two homebuilt airplanes! That's crazy!
Oh...
I walked around the corner and found the airplane paint shop the Livermore airport
guys have been telling me about, T&P Aero Refinishers. Best of all, the owner
was there and I got the tour and we talked about paint jobs. He recommended
against Candy Apple (transparent red over silver or gold), because of the
rivets. I guess the gold/silver pools in the rivets and there's no way to get
a good look. But, there are some paints that will give a very similar look in
a single stage. He also said that clear coating wouldn't be a problem. He's
going to write me up a quote next week, and I'm on the calendar for October
2010 to get painted! Yahoo!
The flight home was simply beautiful! The sun was low in the sky and there was
just enough time when I got back to Livermore to shoot about 5 or 6 touch-n-goes!
The sun dropped behind the hill just as finished my last one! Sweet!
The Airplane Flying HOBBS meter now reports 20.3 hours!! So far no major issues.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Phase 1 Test Flying - 20.3 Hours And Counting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List: Livermore To Salinas In 30 Minutes... Phase 1 Pirep! |
Wow, what a beautiful evening for a flight in a brand new RV-8! The sky was clear;
the clouds were few, the wind was low. I decided to fly over to Salinas
airport and clocked in at exactly 30 minutes! I was down to about 1/3 tanks,
so I gassed up. Kind of pricey, though, at $4.75/gal. There's a really nice
cafe' there at the airport so I'll definitely be heading back there for a greasy
cheese burger at some point! In one of the hangers I peered in and saw not
only a sweet RV-8 in RED, but also a sweet RV-10! Turns out that both built
and owned by the same guy! Imagine, having two homebuilt airplanes! That's crazy!
Oh...
I walked around the corner and found the airplane paint shop the Livermore airport
guys have been telling me about, T&P Aero Refinishers. Best of all, the owner
was there and I got the tour and we talked about paint jobs. He recommended
against Candy Apple (transparent red over silver or gold), because of the
rivets. I guess the gold/silver pools in the rivets and there's no way to get
a good look. But, there are some paints that will give a very similar look in
a single stage. He also said that clear coating wouldn't be a problem. He's
going to write me up a quote next week, and I'm on the calendar for October
2010 to get painted! Yahoo!
The flight home was simply beautiful! The sun was low in the sky and there was
just enough time when I got back to Livermore to shoot about 5 or 6 touch-n-goes!
The sun dropped behind the hill just as finished my last one! Sweet!
The Airplane Flying HOBBS meter now reports 20.3 hours!! So far no major issues.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Phase 1 Test Flying - 20.3 Hours And Counting!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish Construction |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Hello Fellow Rv-8 Builders, yesterday was a banner day at my shop. I offic
ially deemed and declared my RV-8a completed sans construction. I rolled
the fuselage out of the shop to the house hanger and was very happy to se
e her in the sunshine. I will now convert the center bay of my shop into
an overpressure paint booth and begin the painting effort. I figure it'll
take a month of prepping each piece and part, paint and cure, then ship
to the airport for assembly. Probably do the fuselage first so I can begi
n assembly. It took me a couple months to paint the last plane I built so
I know it'll take some time. Still, I feel like I reached a milestone and
want the pace to increase. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Best regards, Bill Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 1, 2010 2:59 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/31/10
*
========================
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=
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========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-05-31&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
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t&Chapter 10-05-31&Archive=RV8
========================
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----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 05/31/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
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========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finished construction |
| From: | John Long <johnlong63(at)gmail.com> |
Bill,
Congratulations, I am a couple of months behind you so I know how you must
feel. Good luck on the painting. Since you have done it before I am sure
you can do a great job. I on the other hand have not and have opted to have
a professional do it for me, so it will be at least 6 months before I can
get it painted.
See you out there flying someday.
John
Subject: RV8-List: Finish Construction
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Hello Fellow Rv-8 Builders, yesterday was a banner day at my shop. I offic
ially deemed and declared my RV-8a completed sans construction. I rolled
the fuselage out of the shop to the house hanger and was very happy to se
e her in the sunshine. I will now convert the center bay of my shop into
an overpressure paint booth and begin the painting effort. I figure it'll
take a month of prepping each piece and part, paint and cure, then ship
to the airport for assembly. Probably do the fuselage first so I can begi
n assembly. It took me a couple months to paint the last plane I built so
I know it'll take some time. Still, I feel like I reached a milestone and
want the pace to increase. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Best regards, Bill Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/01/10 |
Bill,
Congratulations!
Have you posted any photos anywhere?
As soon as you finish painting your RV-8A, mine could use paint also. : )
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Don not archive
Hello Fellow Rv-8 Builders, yesterday was a banner day at my shop. I offic
ially deemed and declared my RV-8a completed sans construction. I rolled
the fuselage out of the shop to the house hanger and was very happy to se
e her in the sunshine. I will now convert the center bay of my shop into
an overpressure paint booth and begin the painting effort. I figure it'll
take a month of prepping each piece and part, paint and cure, then ship
to the airport for assembly. Probably do the fuselage first so I can begi
n assembly. It took me a couple months to paint the last plane I built so
I know it'll take some time. Still, I feel like I reached a milestone and
want the pace to increase. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Best regards, Bill Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Sweet Pics From Cross Country To Lake Tahoe Today... |
Dear Listers,
The second major cross country post-Phase 1 this weekend took us to South Lake Tahoe in our continuing "Quest For A $100 Hamburger"... The weather was unbelievable today. Simply amazing! We ran into Marc Ausman of Vertical Power fame http://www.verticalpower.com as we were fueling up for our trip home. Marc has another sweet Lycoming IO-390 powered RV.
After lunch, we took a flight over Reno at about 11000ft.
Who knew this RV-8 was going to be such a fun vehicle of journey! :-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
Dear Listers,
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
again!
Thanks for the insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
Just one builders opinion....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea
> from Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or
> the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from
> underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-
> wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units
> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I
> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might
> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come
> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying
> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much
> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for
> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these
> units so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out
> once, I definitely don't want to do this again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
| From: | ualpilot3(at)aol.com |
Matt,
I just pulled the fuel senders off a RV-8A to replace the gasket. It
is no problem doing it through the tank-fuselage space. Call me if you
have any questions. 210-887-4546
Les Bourne
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 9, 2010 6:45 am
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
Just one builders opinion....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton >
capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea > from
Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or > the
fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from > underneath
the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-> wing
fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units >
without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I >
can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might >
just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come >
off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying >
weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August > or
October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much >
do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for >
the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these > units
so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out > once, I
definitely don't want to do this again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
Dear Listers,
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
again!
Thanks for the insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Matt
I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
without removing the wing.
So you should be able to install them.
The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
an angle on bottom of the tank.
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
Dear Listers,
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
capacitance fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
one-shot deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
again!
Thanks for the insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Matt
I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
without removing the wing.
So you should be able to install them.
The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
an angle on bottom of the tank.
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
Matt,
Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
went.
Stan Sutterfield
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
Matt,
Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
went.
Stan Sutterfield
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
Stan,
Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
Terry
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
Matt,
Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same boat.
And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
went.
Stan Sutterfield
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either
August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you
have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accuracy |
I have the standard float type from Van's.
Following the bending instructions and Dynon D-180 cal procedure, my floats
top out at about 16+ gallons (Dynon d-180 cal) and bottom with roughly 2
gallons remaining. I have no problem with that.
On the ground I use visual inspection and the fuel flow sensor to gauge tank
quantity. In the air I add in the fuel level indications; I have a tail
dragger.
On the ground a tail dragger fuel level indication is useless but in the air
I rely on it as the last word even with the inaccuracies and erroneous
deflections caused by the rigors of flight. If you are getting down around
7 gallons in each tank, you have @ 1.5 hours left and are (prudently)
looking for a place to fill up.
Assuming full tanks, my bladder goes yellow at 20 gal then red at 15; my
brain goes yellow at 10, then red at 8; finally, my Dynon goes yellow at 7
(each tank) and red at 5.
My fuel flow sensor (again from Dynon) has been surprisingly accurate. Any
inaccuracy has been caused by filling the tanks too fast not allowing time
for the fuel to settle past the baffles. In other words you have to fill
and then wait for the gas to settle a couple of times else you won't really
have full tanks. The fuel flow sensor won't catch this (you tell it when you
add gas), but the float indicator will, starting at @ 15 gals each tank.
So due to the nature of flight, regulations and safety, the question should
not be "Are my fuel level indicators accurate?" The question should be "Are
my fuel level indicators accurate enough?"
Regards,
Vince H.
RV-8 N8432 57 hours
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
Sent: June 09, 2010 10:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
Stan,
Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
Terry
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
Matt,
Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same boat.
And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
went.
Stan Sutterfield
Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
fuel
level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either
August
or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you
have
to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
float
arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
deal.
I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
again!
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <geezer02(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... |
You can install the Van fuel floats without removing the wing. I don't know about
removing the present probes. It will be eaiser if you didn't use pro seal or
some other material on the gaskets.
Louis Dunn
RV8 some day
---- George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
> capacitance fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
> S&W float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
> one-shot deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector-(both) |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:15 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
Matt,
My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
went.
Stan Sutterfield
Stan: You may be fine with a "both" position but my experience with the
RV-4 was not. If you haven't already, I suggest an in flight test. With
the -4 I found that fuel would flow from the dominant tank to the other and
when it (the other) was full, fuel went overboard. The transfer was rapid
enough that ~4 gal was transferred in about 15 minutes. Fuel can emerge
from the cap, flow to the flap gap and then flow inboard to the
wing/fuselage gap.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
| From: | Mike Cingari <mcingari(at)gmail.com> |
Matt,
I would find someone with a QB 8 that has yet to install his S&W Floats and use
his tanks to set up your floats.
Then just transfer them to your tanks. That would minimize the down time and could
be done with the wings installed.
Good Luck,
Mike Cingari
On Jun 9, 2010, at 11:59 PM, RV8-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 06/09/10: 10
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:49 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (Michael Kraus)
> 2. 07:03 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (ualpilot3(at)aol.com)
> 3. 08:13 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 287 8334)
> 4. 08:51 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 287 8334)
> 5. 09:31 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 6. 10:09 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 7. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Terry Watson)
> 8. 01:19 PM - Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accuracy (Vince
Himsl)
> 9. 04:44 PM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... ()
> 10. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: fuel selector-(both) (Gordon or Marge)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea
>> from Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or
>> the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from
>> underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-
>> wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units
>> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I
>> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might
>> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come
>> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying
>> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much
>> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for
>> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these
>> units so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out
>> once, I definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
> From: ualpilot3(at)aol.com
>
>
> Matt,
>
> I just pulled the fuel senders off a RV-8A to replace the gasket. It
> is no problem doing it through the tank-fuselage space. Call me if you
> have any questions. 210-887-4546
>
> Les Bourne
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jun 9, 2010 6:45 am
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton >
> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea > from
> Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or > the
> fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from > underneath
> the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-> wing
> fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units >
> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I >
> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might >
> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come >
> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying >
> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August > or
> October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much >
> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for >
> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these > units
> so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out > once, I
> definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either
August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
> capacitance fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
> S&W float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
> one-shot deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accuracy
>
> I have the standard float type from Van's.
>
>
> Following the bending instructions and Dynon D-180 cal procedure, my floats
> top out at about 16+ gallons (Dynon d-180 cal) and bottom with roughly 2
> gallons remaining. I have no problem with that.
>
>
> On the ground I use visual inspection and the fuel flow sensor to gauge tank
> quantity. In the air I add in the fuel level indications; I have a tail
> dragger.
>
>
> On the ground a tail dragger fuel level indication is useless but in the air
> I rely on it as the last word even with the inaccuracies and erroneous
> deflections caused by the rigors of flight. If you are getting down around
> 7 gallons in each tank, you have @ 1.5 hours left and are (prudently)
> looking for a place to fill up.
>
>
> Assuming full tanks, my bladder goes yellow at 20 gal then red at 15; my
> brain goes yellow at 10, then red at 8; finally, my Dynon goes yellow at 7
> (each tank) and red at 5.
>
>
> My fuel flow sensor (again from Dynon) has been surprisingly accurate. Any
> inaccuracy has been caused by filling the tanks too fast not allowing time
> for the fuel to settle past the baffles. In other words you have to fill
> and then wait for the gas to settle a couple of times else you won't really
> have full tanks. The fuel flow sensor won't catch this (you tell it when you
> add gas), but the float indicator will, starting at @ 15 gals each tank.
>
>
> So due to the nature of flight, regulations and safety, the question should
> not be "Are my fuel level indicators accurate?" The question should be "Are
> my fuel level indicators accurate enough?"
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince H.
>
> RV-8 N8432 57 hours
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
> Sent: June 09, 2010 10:33 AM
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
> again!
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> You can install the Van fuel floats without removing the wing. I don't know about
> removing the present probes. It will be eaiser if you didn't use pro seal or
> some other material on the gaskets.
> Louis Dunn
> RV8 some day
>
> ---- George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel
>> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
>> replaced
>> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
>> Basically
>> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
>> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
>> destroying
>> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
>> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
>> later.
>> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
>> enjoy
>> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
>> either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
>> you have
>> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
>> S&W float
>> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
>> one-shot deal.
>> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do this
>> again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
>> without removing the wing.
>> So you should be able to install them.
>> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
>> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
>> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>>
>> --
>>
>> George H. Inman
>> ghinman(at)mts.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: fuel selector-(both)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:15 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
> Stan: You may be fine with a "both" position but my experience with the
> RV-4 was not. If you haven't already, I suggest an in flight test. With
> the -4 I found that fuel would flow from the dominant tank to the other and
> when it (the other) was full, fuel went overboard. The transfer was rapid
> enough that ~4 gal was transferred in about 15 minutes. Fuel can emerge
> from the cap, flow to the flap gap and then flow inboard to the
> wing/fuselage gap.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Gregory" <steve(at)stevegregory.us> |
| Subject: | Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
Hi Matt,
I have the QB-8 wings/tanks without floats right here in Livermore. I would
be happy to offer any assistance.
Steve Gregory
925-323-6987 (cell)
steve(at)stevegregory.us
license # 00967131
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Cingari
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 7:57 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
Matt,
I would find someone with a QB 8 that has yet to install his S&W Floats and
use his tanks to set up your floats.
Then just transfer them to your tanks. That would minimize the down time and
could be done with the wings installed.
Good Luck,
Mike Cingari
On Jun 9, 2010, at 11:59 PM, RV8-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
10-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2010-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 06/09/10: 10
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:49 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (Michael Kraus)
> 2. 07:03 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (ualpilot3(at)aol.com)
> 3. 08:13 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 287
8334)
> 4. 08:51 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 287
8334)
> 5. 09:31 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 6. 10:09 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 7. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Terry Watson)
> 8. 01:19 PM - Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accuracy
(Vince Himsl)
> 9. 04:44 PM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... ()
> 10. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: fuel selector-(both) (Gordon or Marge)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea
>> from Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or
>> the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from
>> underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-
>> wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units
>> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I
>> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might
>> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come
>> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying
>> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much
>> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for
>> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these
>> units so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out
>> once, I definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
> From: ualpilot3(at)aol.com
>
>
> Matt,
>
> I just pulled the fuel senders off a RV-8A to replace the gasket. It
> is no problem doing it through the tank-fuselage space. Call me if you
> have any questions. 210-887-4546
>
> Les Bourne
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jun 9, 2010 6:45 am
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton >
> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea > from
> Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or > the
> fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from > underneath
> the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-> wing
> fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units >
> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I >
> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might >
> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come >
> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying >
> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August > or
> October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much >
> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for >
> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these > units
> so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out > once, I
> definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
> capacitance fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
> S&W float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
> one-shot deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accuracy
>
> I have the standard float type from Van's.
>
>
> Following the bending instructions and Dynon D-180 cal procedure, my
floats
> top out at about 16+ gallons (Dynon d-180 cal) and bottom with roughly 2
> gallons remaining. I have no problem with that.
>
>
> On the ground I use visual inspection and the fuel flow sensor to gauge
tank
> quantity. In the air I add in the fuel level indications; I have a tail
> dragger.
>
>
> On the ground a tail dragger fuel level indication is useless but in the
air
> I rely on it as the last word even with the inaccuracies and erroneous
> deflections caused by the rigors of flight. If you are getting down
around
> 7 gallons in each tank, you have @ 1.5 hours left and are (prudently)
> looking for a place to fill up.
>
>
> Assuming full tanks, my bladder goes yellow at 20 gal then red at 15; my
> brain goes yellow at 10, then red at 8; finally, my Dynon goes yellow at 7
> (each tank) and red at 5.
>
>
> My fuel flow sensor (again from Dynon) has been surprisingly accurate. Any
> inaccuracy has been caused by filling the tanks too fast not allowing time
> for the fuel to settle past the baffles. In other words you have to fill
> and then wait for the gas to settle a couple of times else you won't
really
> have full tanks. The fuel flow sensor won't catch this (you tell it when
you
> add gas), but the float indicator will, starting at @ 15 gals each tank.
>
>
> So due to the nature of flight, regulations and safety, the question
should
> not be "Are my fuel level indicators accurate?" The question should be
"Are
> my fuel level indicators accurate enough?"
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince H.
>
> RV-8 N8432 57 hours
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
> Sent: June 09, 2010 10:33 AM
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old probes
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitance
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-shot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> You can install the Van fuel floats without removing the wing. I don't
know about
> removing the present probes. It will be eaiser if you didn't use pro seal
or
> some other material on the gaskets.
> Louis Dunn
> RV8 some day
>
> ---- George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel
>> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
>> replaced
>> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
>> Basically
>> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
>> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
>> destroying
>> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
>> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
>> later.
>> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
>> enjoy
>> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
>> either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
>> you have
>> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
>> S&W float
>> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
>> one-shot deal.
>> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
>> again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
>> without removing the wing.
>> So you should be able to install them.
>> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
>> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
>> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>>
>> --
>>
>> George H. Inman
>> ghinman(at)mts.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: fuel selector-(both)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:15 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - however
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
> Stan: You may be fine with a "both" position but my experience with the
> RV-4 was not. If you haven't already, I suggest an in flight test. With
> the -4 I found that fuel would flow from the dominant tank to the other
and
> when it (the other) was full, fuel went overboard. The transfer was rapid
> enough that ~4 gal was transferred in about 15 minutes. Fuel can emerge
> from the cap, flow to the flap gap and then flow inboard to the
> wing/fuselage gap.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
| Subject: | 100 dollar scrambled eggs |
Matt,
Sorry to hear about your fuel level sender problems, but glad you're
finally able to enjoy some time with air under the tires. I know it
would be a little bit of a hike just for breakfast, but would like to
see you at Grants Pass, OR for our EAA Chapter 725 AirEventure on June
26. A beautiful area for flying, friendly people, good food, and
(should be) tons of RV's. What's not to like. Hope you can make it.
Everyone else in range also. Y'all come.
Stan Loer
RV-8 QB in process
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Medical Issue RV- Fellows |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
-----Dear Fellow RV Builders and Flyers, as my RV-8a gets closer to flying
I'm looking at myself in prep to flying her. Presently I fly a LSA I buil
t over 5 years ago and though I have maintained my Class II Med it's getti
ng about time for a new physical. Issue is I have recently developed hypot
hyroidism and take a little blue pill each day to get my "T" level up. I
understand I can fly with it, but that my Flight Doctor has to send cert
ain documents and test results to FAA for a variant. Who has had this, wha
t is the drill and what test results do I need to bring to my Flight Dr.
at the time of the physical in order to expedite the approval? Best regar
ds, Bill
>
> ========================
========================
=
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
========================
=
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatte
d
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&C
hapter
10-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Ch
apter
2010-06-09&Archive=RV8
>
>
> ========================
=======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
=======================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 06/09/10: 10
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:49 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (Michael Kraus)
> 2. 07:03 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (ualpilot3(at)aol.co
m)
> 3. 08:13 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 287
8334)
> 4. 08:51 AM - Replacing Fuel Level Senders... (George Inman 204 28
7
8334)
> 5. 09:31 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 6. 10:09 AM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 7. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders (Terry Watson)
> 8. 01:19 PM - Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accurac
y
(Vince Himsl)
> 9. 04:44 PM - Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders... ()
> 10. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: fuel selector-(both) (Gordon or Marge)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea
>> from Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or
>> the fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from
>> underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-
>> wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units
>> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I
>> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might
>> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come
>> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying
>> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much
>> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for
>> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these
>> units so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out
>> once, I definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
> From: ualpilot3(at)aol.com
>
>
> Matt,
>
> I just pulled the fuel senders off a RV-8A to replace the gasket. It
> is no problem doing it through the tank-fuselage space. Call me if you
> have any questions. 210-887-4546
>
> Les Bourne
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jun 9, 2010 6:45 am
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
>
>
> I removed my tanks on my RV-4 to make some modifications. I don't
> remember it being a big deal at all. I think it took less than 20
> minutes per side with a drill motor. I think you'd have a much easier
> time in removing the tanks and doing it that way.
>
> Just one builders opinion....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2010, at 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton >
> capacitance fuel level probes with the standard S&W float probea > from
> Van's. Has anyone replaced these without removing the wing or > the
> fuel tank from the airplane? Basically just doing it from > underneath
> the airplane through the gap afforded by the fuselage-to-> wing
> fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units >
> without destroying them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I >
> can do it without pulling the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might >
> just tackle this sooner than later. But if the tanks have to come >
> off, then I might procrastinate more and enjoy the great flying >
> weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in either August > or
> October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much >
> do you have to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for >
> the S&W float arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these > units
> so its a one-shot deal. I've already pulled the probes out > once, I
> definitely don't want to do this again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitanc
e
fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulli
ng
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-sho
t
deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
> Subject: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
> capacitance fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulli
ng
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
> S&W float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
> one-shot deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
> Thanks for the insight...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
> Matt
>
> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
> without removing the wing.
> So you should be able to install them.
> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old prob
es
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - howeve
r
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitan
ce
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-sh
ot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
> boat. And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old prob
es
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - howeve
r
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitan
ce
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
> enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
> either August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
> you have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-sh
ot
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
> this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wi
ng
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.c
om
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old prob
es
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - howeve
r
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitanc
e
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulli
ng
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-sho
t
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Van's Float type fuel indicator sensor bending accura
cy
>
> I have the standard float type from Van's.
>
>
> Following the bending instructions and Dynon D-180 cal procedure, my
floats
> top out at about 16+ gallons (Dynon d-180 cal) and bottom with roughly
2
> gallons remaining. I have no problem with that.
>
>
> On the ground I use visual inspection and the fuel flow sensor to gauge
tank
> quantity. In the air I add in the fuel level indications; I have a tail
> dragger.
>
>
> On the ground a tail dragger fuel level indication is useless but in the
air
> I rely on it as the last word even with the inaccuracies and erroneous
> deflections caused by the rigors of flight. If you are getting down
around
> 7 gallons in each tank, you have @ 1.5 hours left and are (prudently)
> looking for a place to fill up.
>
>
> Assuming full tanks, my bladder goes yellow at 20 gal then red at 15; my
> brain goes yellow at 10, then red at 8; finally, my Dynon goes yellow at
7
> (each tank) and red at 5.
>
>
> My fuel flow sensor (again from Dynon) has been surprisingly accurate.
Any
> inaccuracy has been caused by filling the tanks too fast not allowing ti
me
> for the fuel to settle past the baffles. In other words you have to fil
l
> and then wait for the gas to settle a couple of times else you won't
really
> have full tanks. The fuel flow sensor won't catch this (you tell it when
you
> add gas), but the float indicator will, starting at @ 15 gals each tank.
>
>
> So due to the nature of flight, regulations and safety, the question
should
> not be "Are my fuel level indicators accurate?" The question should be
"Are
> my fuel level indicators accurate enough?"
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Vince H.
>
> RV-8 N8432 57 hours
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
> Sent: June 09, 2010 10:33 AM
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Stan,
>
>
> Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wi
ng
> plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.c
om
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:15 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Too bad you couldn't have removed them earlier. Well, I'm in the same
boat.
> And I've been thinking about removing mine also.
>
> I haven't done it, but I believe you will be able to remove the old prob
es
> and install the float type without removing the tanks. I'm basing this
> guesstimate on eyeball, but my eyeball is often correct.
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
>
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - howeve
r
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
>
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
>
> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton capacitanc
e
> fuel
> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
> replaced
> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
> Basically
> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>
> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
> destroying
> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without pulli
ng
> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
> later.
> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
enjoy
> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
either
> August
> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>
> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
you
> have
> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>
> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
S&W
> float
> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a one-sho
t
> deal.
> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
> again!
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Replacing Fuel Level Senders...
>
>
> You can install the Van fuel floats without removing the wing. I don't
know about
> removing the present probes. It will be eaiser if you didn't use pro sea
l
or
> some other material on the gaskets.
> Louis Dunn
> RV8 some day
>
> ---- George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Well, okay, so I've resigned myself to replacing my Princeton
>> capacitance fuel
>> level probes with the standard S&W float probea from Van's. Has anyone
>> replaced
>> these without removing the wing or the fuel tank from the airplane?
>> Basically
>> just doing it from underneath the airplane through the gap afforded by
the
>> fuselage-to-wing fairing? Is this even possible?
>>
>> I know that it won't be possible to remove the Princeton units without
>> destroying
>> them, but can the S&W probes be installed? If I can do it without
pulling
>> the fuel tanks or wings off, then I might just tackle this sooner than
>> later.
>> But if the tanks have to come off, then I might procrastinate more and
>> enjoy
>> the great flying weather. That being said, I'm going in for paint in
>> either August
>> or October and it has to be complete before then either way.
>>
>> Arg, why couldn't those Princeton probes just work? Geeze, how much do
>> you have
>> to spend to get a product that works. How frustrating.
>>
>> So, how accurate are the bending dimensions on the Van's plans for the
>> S&W float
>> arms? I've got no way to test or trial fit these units so its a
>> one-shot deal.
>> I've already pulled the probes out once, I definitely don't want to do
this
>> again!
>>
>> Thanks for the insight...
>>
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> I managed to remove and re-install my fuel senders
>> without removing the wing.
>> So you should be able to install them.
>> The bending instructions are fairly accurate,but you will have
>> to snap out and reverse the float on one side ,or it will hit
>> an angle on bottom of the tank.
>>
>> --
>>
>> George H. Inman
>> ghinman(at)mts.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: fuel selector-(both)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.c
om
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:15 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Replacing Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> Matt,
>
> My Princeton fuel probes are absolutely worthless. I recommend anyone
> considering buying them to consider something else - anything else.
> I'm using timing and fuel flow to determine my fuel tank levels - howeve
r
I
> have an advantage with a "Both" selection on my fuel selector.
> I, for one, will be awaiting your report on how the removal/replacement
> went.
> Stan Sutterfield
>
> Stan: You may be fine with a "both" position but my experience with the
> RV-4 was not. If you haven't already, I suggest an in flight test. Wit
h
> the -4 I found that fuel would flow from the dominant tank to the other
and
> when it (the other) was full, fuel went overboard. The transfer was rap
id
> enough that ~4 gal was transferred in about 15 minutes. Fuel can emerg
e
> from the cap, flow to the flap gap and then flow inboard to the
> wing/fuselage gap.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Both Selector |
Terry,
I've had no airborne problems using a both position on my RV-8A. The
tanks feed evenly. I occasionally feed slightly more from the right tank than
the left and I believe that is due to flying with the ball out of center.
I'm going to do skidding flight tests to verify that theory.
On the ground, if the selector is left in both, the tanks will feed from
fullest tank to emptiest until they are equal.
When building, the cost of the fuel selector was the same with or without
both position. I decided I could always fall back to using Left-Right if
the both selection did not work well. It does work well.
Regards,
Stan Sutterfield
Isn't there a cross-feed problem with a 'both' fuel selector on a low wing
plane like an RV? Did you find a way to deal with that?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel selector-(both) |
Gordon,
Thanks for your RV-4 info.
I have 84 hours and I'm doing my first annual condition inspection and I
have had no significant problems with the both fuel selection on my RV-8A.
The right wing will feed slightly more than the left, but that is likely
due to a slight skid. I have burned the tanks down to 4.5 G remaining
overhead my airport. Remaining was 2.9 in the left tank and 1.6 in the right.
Further, I have run one tank dry on the ground in both position (engine
faltered as it began to draw air from empty tank) and switched to the left tank
(which still had fuel) and the engine kept running.
I have had no indications of vented fuel at either the tank lid or the fuel
vents.
So, my confidence level is high regarding use of the both selection on my
RV-8A. It is a pleasure not having to constantly worry about switching
tanks.
I intend to do skidding flight tests (flying most of a flight in an
intentional skid) to evaluate tank feed.
If I discover a significant problem in the suture related to the both
position, I can always fall back to using Left-Right like other RVs.
During the building process, I took special care to make the feed lines
from each tank the same length and using the same degrees of total bends (no
small feat) in order to ensure there was no imbalance caused by higher
viscosity on one side. With a RV-6/7/9, the fuel lines are already even from
both sides so that problem is resolved.
Regards,
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Stan: You may be fine with a "both" position but my experience with the
RV-4 was not. If you haven't already, I suggest an in flight test. With
the -4 I found that fuel would flow from the dominant tank to the other and
when it (the other) was full, fuel went overboard. The transfer was rapid
enough that ~4 gal was transferred in about 15 minutes. Fuel can emerge
from the cap, flow to the flap gap and then flow inboard to the
wing/fuselage gap.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Watsonville For Dinner... |
It was such a nice evening, I just couldn't not take a flight in the RV-8 after
work. I decided to head over to Watsonville and try out the restaurant that
I'd found there on the last visit. Now, it is widely known that I do not care
that much for Mexican Food that doesn't from a Taco Bell -- more accurately put,
it doesn't like me -- but since that's what was at the available fair at this
establishment, I decided to give it a try -- sort of. I had a nice plate
of "jumbo" coconut shrimp that were surprisingly tasty.
Of particular significance on this trip, however, was some Top Speed testing I
did on the way home. At 2500 feet, 2700 RPM, 27.5 Inches of MP, and 1379 F
on the hottest EGT, I was getting -- are you ready for this -- 227 MPH TRUE airspeed!
At 2500 feet that seemed heck of fast! Sweet! The only downside to
227 MPH? 16.9 GPH fuel flow! Yikes!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 100 dollar scrambled eggs |
At 11:34 AM 6/10/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>
>Sorry to hear about your fuel level sender problems, but glad you're finally able
to enjoy some time with air under the tires. I know it would be a little
bit of a hike just for breakfast, but would like to see you at Grants Pass, OR
for our EAA Chapter 725 AirEventure on June 26. A beautiful area for flying,
friendly people, good food, and (should be) tons of RV's. What's not to like.
Hope you can make it. Everyone else in range also. Y'all come.
>
>Stan Loer
>RV-8 QB in process
Thanks for the invite, Stan. That sounds like would be a great trip for the new
RV-8. I'll put it on my calendar.
Matt
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Both Selector |
John,
What happens (ops tested) is when the both position is selected and one
tank runs dry, air is drawn into the line and since air is easier to pump
than fuel, the engine will falter. Selecting the tank with fuel remaining
restores power immediately.
Gravity feed does not matter since the electric pump is creating suction
and you are switching from the both position to one tank. Then one is
feeding fuel just as any RV that does not have a both position, that is,
selecting left or right tank. It is the same as if one ran one tank dry and
switched to the other.
I've ops checked it.
Stan Sutterfield
If a tank runs low enough that it will suck air, that's what you get,
air. No matter how much fuel is in the other tank( s ), unless gravity
is helpin' out.
John D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | RV8A Building Question |
Dear Listers ...
I bought a partially complete kit. The building manual was not all there
and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. There are several
places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence
I'm sure).
I would like to learn from this vast group of builders:
What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence
of steps in order? It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find several
rivets need drilled-out to install something else.
I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing
missing prints.
What would you gents do in this case?
Many thank for your answers ...
Jerry
jerry(at)mc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV8A Building Question |
Jerry,
I would recommend you buy the manual and plod through the building process
step by step from the beginning. Many of the tasks will be completed but you
will have the comfort of verifying that for yourself and not just hoping the
original builder did it. At least it will be a lot faster verifying the
original builder's work than having to fabricate, assemble, and rivet
yourself.
In order to keep from having to drill out perfectly good rivets to install
another part, you have to have an understanding of the entire process. As
Van advises, read ahead in the manual and study the plans so you know where
the project is going before you get there. If all this sounds a little
esoteric, it is but you will join the group (after you drill out a few
perfectly good rivets to install another part) :)
Good Luck
John Ciolino
RV-8
68.02 hours!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Grimmonpre
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 3:42 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8A Building Question
Dear Listers ...
I bought a partially complete kit. The building manual was not all there
and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. There are several
places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence
I'm sure).
I would like to learn from this vast group of builders:
What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence
of steps in order? It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find several
rivets need drilled-out to install something else.
I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing
missing prints.
What would you gents do in this case?
Many thank for your answers ...
Jerry
jerry(at)mc.net
March 14, 2010 - June 15, 2010
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ap