RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ar

July 27, 2010 - September 20, 2010



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      CONTINUOUS
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      CONTINUOUS
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      CONTINUOUS
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      CONTINUOUS
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      CONTINUOUS
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          15
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       62
          15
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       62
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       62
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       62
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
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       62
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       62
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       62
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
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       62
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       62
          15
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       62
          15
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       62
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       62
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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      1.779600
       20
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        0
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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       62
          15
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
          15
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       62
          15
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
          15
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      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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       62
          15
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      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
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       62
          15
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
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       62
           7
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
      3.607200
        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       62
           7
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
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      CONTINUOUS
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      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.816560
       20
      3.655200
        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.810560
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.803360
       20
      3.653760
        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.786320
       20
      3.643440
        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.765680
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.757520
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.752720
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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      0
       62
           7
       10
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      4.646160
       40
      0.060445
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      Dn
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      1.000000
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           0
       72
           5
       11
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        0
      TEXT
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      2.022240
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      Up
       41
      1.000000
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       71
           0
       72
           5
       11
      2.115229
       21
      4.300800
        0
      TEXT
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      1.786080
       20
      4.473360
       40
      0.060445
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      Lt
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      1.000000
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      SN0
       71
           0
       72
           5
       11
      1.846945
       21
      4.473360
        0
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      2.282400
       20
      4.473360
       40
      0.060445
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      Rt
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      1.000000
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      SN0
       71
           0
       72
           5
       11
      2.355382
       21
      4.473360
        0
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      1.980240
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      Trim
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      1.000000
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           0
       72
           5
       11
      2.134376
       21
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      SOLID
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           7
       10
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       20
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       11
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       12
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       22
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       13
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       62
           7
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       62
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      CONTINUOUS
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       11
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       21
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       12
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       22
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       13
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       20
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       20
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        0
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.910640
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      1.910640
       20
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        0
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      0
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       10
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       20
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       11
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       21
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       12
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       22
      4.487040
       13
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       23
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        0
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      CONTINUOUS
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        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      2.242320
       20
      4.487040
        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
      4.487040
        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
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      0
        0
      SOLID
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       62
           7
       10
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       20
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       11
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       21
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       12
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       22
      4.393200
       13
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       23
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        0
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      CONTINUOUS
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
      2.086080
       20
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        0
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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      0
       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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        0
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      0
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      TEXT
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      1.465440
       20
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       40
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        1
      Up
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      1.000000
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      SN0
       71
           0
       72
           5
       11
      1.558429
       21
      4.267440
        0
      TEXT
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      1.467360
       20
      3.921840
       40
      0.060445
        1
      Dn
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      1.000000
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      SN0
       71
           0
       72
           5
       11
      1.560631
       21
      3.921840
        0
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      0
       62
           7
       10
      1.406640
       20
      4.093680
       40
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      Flaps
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           0
       72
           5
       11
      1.595153
       21
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        0
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       62
           7
       10
      1.510320
       20
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       11
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       21
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       12
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       22
      4.185120
       13
      1.529520
       23
      4.185120
        0
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      CONTINUOUS
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      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
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      1.510320
       20
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        0
      VERTEX
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       62
           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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      0
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           7
       10
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       20
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       11
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       21
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       12
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       22
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       13
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       23
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        0
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      CONTINUOUS
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       20
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        0
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           7
        6
      CONTINUOUS
       10
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       20
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      VERTEX
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       62
           7
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Canopy Sliding Latch
Date: Jul 27, 2010
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Adding last touches to my RV-8a and bought Van's canopy latch. Really expe nsive part. Shouldn't the amount cut off the canopy pipe equal the withe of the latch metal thickness? Hope somebody knows. Thanks, Bill of Georgi a -----Original Message----- From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tue, Jul 27, 2010 2:59 am Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/26/10 * ======================== ======================== = Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== ======================== = Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor uch as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht ml&Chapter 10-07-26&Archive=RV8 Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx t&Chapter 10-07-26&Archive=RV8 ======================== ======================= EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== ======================= ---------------------------------------------------------- RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 07/26/10: 0 ---------------------------------------------------------- oday's Message Index: --------------------- -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The RV8-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Canopy Covers
Dear Listers, I'm in the market for a top-notch canopy cover for the RV-8. I'm wanting the highest quality materials and workmanship on the product. I want it for overnight trips where it might rain so it needs to completely cover the front baggage door. When folded up, I don't want it to completely fill the limited rear baggage area in the RV-8, either. I Google RV-8 Canopy Cover as well as looked at Van's Online catalog, and there seems to be plenty of "options", but I'm looking for some empirical data on quality, fit, and stowage. Thanks in advance for your feedback! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Canopy Covers
Date: Aug 01, 2010
I'm pleased with the one I purchased from Cleaveland Tools. I use it only for travel when I have to park on the ramp. It's eight years old and still looks like new. It rides on the rear baggage shelf behind the tool kit (in other words it takes up very little space). Carl Froehlich RV-8A (600 hrs) RV-10 (systems install) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 8:56 PM rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Covers Dear Listers, I'm in the market for a top-notch canopy cover for the RV-8. I'm wanting the highest quality materials and workmanship on the product. I want it for overnight trips where it might rain so it needs to completely cover the front baggage door. When folded up, I don't want it to completely fill the limited rear baggage area in the RV-8, either. I Google RV-8 Canopy Cover as well as looked at Van's Online catalog, and there seems to be plenty of "options", but I'm looking for some empirical data on quality, fit, and stowage. Thanks in advance for your feedback! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Canopy Covers
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Aug 02, 2010
I have a Bruce's Custom covers.... I've had it for 8 years and it still looks new. Sunbrella material, lots of colors.... I liked it so much I already bought one for my -10, even though it is not flying yet.... -Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:55 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Dear Listers, > > I'm in the market for a top-notch canopy cover for the RV-8. I'm wanting the highest quality materials and workmanship on the product. I want it for overnight trips where it might rain so it needs to completely cover the front baggage door. When folded up, I don't want it to completely fill the limited rear baggage area in the RV-8, either. > > I Google RV-8 Canopy Cover as well as looked at Van's Online catalog, and there seems to be plenty of "options", but I'm looking for some empirical data on quality, fit, and stowage. > > Thanks in advance for your feedback! > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor... > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com>
Subject: Nutplate installation
Date: Aug 04, 2010
I'm ready to install the nutplates for the forward bolts in the F445 Flap Bearing Blocks. The instructions say that a rivet squeezer can be made from a pair of vice grips, since there is no access for a regular squeezer. Seems very crude to me. Is this the way other builders have installed these? Stan Loer RV-8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2010
From: Mark Merrell <mark.merrell(at)ymail.com>
Subject: Wash Primer
I don't want to start a war. I just want to know where I can get only a gal lon of wash primer. My local Sherwin Williams says they only sell-P60G2 -five gallons at a time at $60/gallon. Mark=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power VP-X Electrical Systems
At 06:12 PM 8/8/2010 Sunday, you wrote: >Thank you for all your comments on fuel pumps and fuel selectors. Another area that I am starting work to work on is the electrical system. The Vertical Power VP-X systems seems to greatly simply the wiring process. I would appreciate any feedback on using the VP-X, I admit I am electrically challenged and anything to simplify putting together the electrical system would be helpful. Does is save time and simplify the wiring process? > >Thanks in advance. > >Vmax Hi Heyden, I have the Vertical Power VP-200 system in my RV-8 and love it. I wouldn't build another homebuilt without one. I have a great deal of experience documentation on my RV-8 Construction log under the "Electrical" and "Avionics" sections. Below are links to each. Scroll down on the respective pages. Electrical System ---------------- http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/category.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=3912 Avionics Systems ---------------- http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/category.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971 (Look around 03-25-2009 for the final wiring installation). Marc Ausman of Vertical Power was a tremendous help to me during the design and installation of the electrical system. My score for the VP-200 system? 10/10. Hands down the coolest way to build a modern day aircraft electrical system. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Brownsville California Photos - Inspiration!
We flew up to Brownsville California on Saturday and since the RV-8 had just had baby's first bath since the test flight (now at 85 hours TTSN, and almost 10,000 miles), there were some great opportunities for photo ops. Everyday I seem to enjoy flying the RV-8 even more. It is truly a joy to fly in every respect. On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo, its a truly amazing machine! Keep at it! You won't be sorry! It is so worth all the hard work! - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2010
Subject: Re: Brownsville California Photos - Inspiration
Matt, I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers aren't even close to yours. At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with high altitude performance. I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise numbers are after that flight. But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. I wonder why? Stan Sutterfield rv-8a.net On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William L. Paulin" <wpaulin(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Brownsville California Photos - Inspiration
Date: Aug 16, 2010
Airspeed calibration error .... or drag? BIll On Aug 16, 2010, at 7:36 AM, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: Matt, I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers aren't even close to yours. At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with high altitude performance. I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise numbers are after that flight. But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. I wonder why? Stan Sutterfield rv-8a.net On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo ********************************* William L. Paulin, Ph.D. PaulinNeal Associates 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)paulinneal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nutplate installation
From: "pilotjt" <jtmccracken(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2010
Stan, Have you tried nutplate rivets? They can be installed with a standard rivet puller. :) http://www.cherryaerospace.com/html/product/blindrivets.html -------- Regards, JT RV8 N110JT FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=309092#309092 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2010
Subject: RV Speeds
I've done multiple GPS speed calculations and all of the TAS calculations came within one knot of the EFIS TAS numbers, so if I have a CAS error, it is not very large. My A is less draggy than a neighbors 390 powered A and we've used WOT side by side and I pull away from him. I'm also working on reducing drag before painting in the fall. I'm working on winglets, I'm fairing the aileron hinges and fuel drains, I'm working on cooling air drag, I'm making mods to the wheel pants, I have straight exhaust pipes for "jet effect," and other speed mods. The best I can do right now is 184 KIAS at 1K" - WOT and 2680 RPM. My goa l, with mods, is to indicate 188. I just can't seem to get the numbers that others are getting. Stan Sutterfield Airspeed calibration error .... or drag? BIll Matt, I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers aren't even close to yours. At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with high altitude performance. I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise numbers are after that flight. But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. I wonder why? Stan Sutterfield rv-8a.net On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William L. Paulin" <wpaulin(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Date: Aug 17, 2010
Sorry to act like an expert when I am only an obsolete aerodynamisist but: 1. If you are relatively sure of your weight, airspeed, altitude and engine calibrations (i.e., sure you are pretty close to lift, speed, altitude and thrust measures), then 2. Since T= D & L=W in unaccelerated flight, 3. Either your D is higher than the others (due to W --> L --> D ... or just D items), or they are wrong in their airplane performance measures. 4. If you believe their claims (I'd be careful here), then you have more W, less T or more D than you think. But since you pull away from your friend (and assuming his calibrations are OK), then my personal guess is that you have to doubt the other's claims / calibrations. If you don't, then my personal guess would be that since you probably know your engine (T) and W pretty well (but I am not an engine expert), the airframe D is the problem (out of rig, bad airfoils, etc., etc.) ... but your problem then becomes endless. Flying side by side seems the simplest way to get at differing "calibrations." But again, I am just guessing and probably no help at all. Bill On Aug 17, 2010, at 7:08 AM, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: I've done multiple GPS speed calculations and all of the TAS calculations came within one knot of the EFIS TAS numbers, so if I have a CAS error, it is not very large. My A is less draggy than a neighbors 390 powered A and we've used WOT side by side and I pull away from him. I'm also working on reducing drag before painting in the fall. I'm working on winglets, I'm fairing the aileron hinges and fuel drains, I'm working on cooling air drag, I'm making mods to the wheel pants, I have straight exhaust pipes for "jet effect," and other speed mods. The best I can do right now is 184 KIAS at 1K" - WOT and 2680 RPM. My goal, with mods, is to indicate 188. I just can't seem to get the numbers that others are getting. Stan Sutterfield Airspeed calibration error .... or drag? BIll Matt, I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers aren't even close to yours. At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with high altitude performance. I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise numbers are after that flight. But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. I wonder why? Stan Sutterfield rv-8a.net On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo *********************************** William & Sandra Paulin 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Bill Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)usa.net Sandy Cell +1 858 349 1729 Office +1 928 443 7739 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2010
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: > The best I can do right now is 184 KIAS at 1K" - WOT and 2680 RPM. My goa > l, with mods, is to indicate 188. I just can't seem to get the numbers > that others are getting. I wonder how much of the difference is knots indicated vs mph true? 184 knots indicated would be 212 mph at sea level, about the same as Van's 180hp numbers. > On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / > 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to This calculator: http://www.newbyte.co.il/calc.html shows 204 TAS at 7000' (standard atmosphere) to be 184 mph CAS, or 160 KIAS. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) RV-8A 80091 Fitting wings 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
On multiple occasions, I have seen a top speed of 229-230 mph true at about 2000 msl, full throttle, and 2700 rpm, and gently leaned. This was confirmed by the GPS GS from both the EFIS GPS and the Kenwood GPS. The autopilot was on to assure no ascending/descending error. These were on cool evenings (70-75f). That being said, there are other days when it won't go much above 222-225 mph. I will rig up the cockpit HD video camera again to verify my readings... - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 90+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute... At 07:08 AM 8/17/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: > >I've done multiple GPS speed calculations and all of the TAS calculations came within one knot of the EFIS TAS numbers, so if I have a CAS error, it is not very large. >My A is less draggy than a neighbors 390 powered A and we've used WOT side by side and I pull away from him. I'm also working on reducing drag before painting in the fall. I'm working on winglets, I'm fairing the aileron hinges and fuel drains, I'm working on cooling air drag, I'm making mods to the wheel pants, I have straight exhaust pipes for "jet effect," and other speed mods. >The best I can do right now is 184 KIAS at 1K" - WOT and 2680 RPM. My goal, with mods, is to indicate 188. I just can't seem to get the numbers that others are getting. >Stan Sutterfield > >Airspeed calibration error .... or drag? > >BIll > > >Matt, >I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers >aren't even close to yours. >At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn >2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. >Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to >15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make >it. >I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with >high altitude performance. >I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise >numbers are after that flight. >But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. >I wonder why? >Stan Sutterfield >rv-8a.net >On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / >2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to >18,000ft >(on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, >and >202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less >reserves. >Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Date: Aug 17, 2010
Matt, The National Test Pilot School has a nice excel spreadsheet for removing the effects of wind in determining true airspeed. http://www.ntps.edu/images/stories/documents/gps-pec.XLS Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 10:50 AM Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV Speeds > > On multiple occasions, I have seen a top speed of 229-230 mph true at > about 2000 msl, full throttle, and 2700 rpm, and gently leaned. This was > confirmed by the GPS GS from both the EFIS GPS and the Kenwood GPS. The > autopilot was on to assure no ascending/descending error. These were on > cool evenings (70-75f). > > That being said, there are other days when it won't go much above 222-225 > mph. > > I will rig up the cockpit HD video camera again to verify my readings... > > > - > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 90+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute... > > > At 07:08 AM 8/17/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: >> >>I've done multiple GPS speed calculations and all of the TAS calculations >>came within one knot of the EFIS TAS numbers, so if I have a CAS error, it >>is not very large. >>My A is less draggy than a neighbors 390 powered A and we've used WOT side >>by side and I pull away from him. I'm also working on reducing drag >>before painting in the fall. I'm working on winglets, I'm fairing the >>aileron hinges and fuel drains, I'm working on cooling air drag, I'm >>making mods to the wheel pants, I have straight exhaust pipes for "jet >>effect," and other speed mods. >>The best I can do right now is 184 KIAS at 1K" - WOT and 2680 RPM. My >>goal, with mods, is to indicate 188. I just can't seem to get the numbers >>that others are getting. >>Stan Sutterfield >> >>Airspeed calibration error .... or drag? >> >>BIll >> >> >>Matt, >>I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers >>aren't even close to yours. >>At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn >>2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. >>Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to >>15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make >>it. >>I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with >>high altitude performance. >>I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise >>numbers are after that flight. >>But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. >>I wonder why? >>Stan Sutterfield >>rv-8a.net >>On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / >>2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to >>18,000ft >>(on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, >>and >>202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less >>reserves. >>Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Well, I had to see what my IO-390 RV-8A would do at 18K, so today I climbed to 17,500 (couldn't get ATC clearance higher) and had the following numbers: 15.4" MP - 2400 RPM - 8.5 GPH - KIAS 124 - KTAS 166 (191 MPH) 15.4" MP - 2310 RPM - 9.0 GPH - KIAS 120 - KTAS 162 (186 MPH) Fuel pump was out of service, so I'll confirm the actual fuel burn next week. I'm simply not getting your numbers, Matt. Must be my ham fisted flying. I can't imagine that the engines are that much different. Scratching my cranium. Stan Sutterfield Matt, I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers aren't even close to yours. At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with high altitude performance. I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise numbers are after that flight. But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. I wonder why? Stan Sutterfield rv-8a.net On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to 18,000ft (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less reserves. Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Looks to me like your RPMs are WAY too high! At 5.5gph I was at 2000 RPM. Lowering the RPM is how you get the flow rates down. Bigger bite might make you go faster too. I want to say that at 5.5/2000/18000/170mph I was at about 12.5" MP. I think that I took still pictures of the EFIS's in all the various configurations I did. I'll download them from the Camera and double check my numbers. Matt At 08:36 PM 8/17/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: > >Well, I had to see what my IO-390 RV-8A would do at 18K, so today I climbed to 17,500 (couldn't get ATC clearance higher) and had the following numbers: >15.4" MP - 2400 RPM - 8.5 GPH - KIAS 124 - KTAS 166 (191 MPH) >15.4" MP - 2310 RPM - 9.0 GPH - KIAS 120 - KTAS 162 (186 MPH) >Fuel pump was out of service, so I'll confirm the actual fuel burn next week. >I'm simply not getting your numbers, Matt. Must be my ham fisted flying. I can't imagine that the engines are that much different. >Scratching my cranium. >Stan Sutterfield >Matt, >I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers >aren't even close to yours. >At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 >RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute >climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm >planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. >I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with >high altitude performance. >I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise >numbers are after that flight. >But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. >I wonder why? >Stan Sutterfield >rv-8a.net > >On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / >2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to >18,000ft >(on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and >202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less >reserves. >Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Date: Aug 18, 2010
You have different props, right? Gordon Comfort -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 12:01 AM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV Speeds Looks to me like your RPMs are WAY too high! At 5.5gph I was at 2000 RPM. Lowering the RPM is how you get the flow rates down. Bigger bite might make you go faster too. I want to say that at 5.5/2000/18000/170mph I was at about 12.5" MP. I think that I took still pictures of the EFIS's in all the various configurations I did. I'll download them from the Camera and double check my numbers. Matt At 08:36 PM 8/17/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: > >Well, I had to see what my IO-390 RV-8A would do at 18K, so today I >climbed to 17,500 (couldn't get ATC clearance higher) and had the >following numbers: 15.4" MP - 2400 RPM - 8.5 GPH - KIAS 124 - KTAS 166 >(191 MPH) 15.4" MP - 2310 RPM - 9.0 GPH - KIAS 120 - KTAS 162 (186 MPH) >Fuel pump was out of service, so I'll confirm the actual fuel burn next >week. I'm simply not getting your numbers, Matt. Must be my ham fisted >flying. I can't imagine that the engines are that much different. >Scratching my cranium. Stan Sutterfield Matt, I must be doing something >wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers >aren't even close to yours. >At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 >RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute >climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and I'm >planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. >I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with >high altitude performance. >I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise >numbers are after that flight. >But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. >I wonder why? >Stan Sutterfield >rv-8a.net > >On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP >/ 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to >18,000ft >(on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and >202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less >reserves. >Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2010
Subject: Re: Nutplate installation
I'm not sure if I'm the Stan you are addressing, but I have used Cherry Max rivets. They work great. They are also expensive. Used in certain applications, they can be less expensive than the time spent trying to do the job otherwise. I have used, and like, Cherry Max rivets. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net Have you tried nutplate rivets? They can be installed with a standard rivet puller ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Those are amazing numbers. 230 true MPH would be 200 KTAS. That is 6 knots more than I am getting. The only thing I can think of is that my Barrett IO-390 is not producing full power. If my engine were producing only 190 HP at sea level and yours were producing 210 HP, then that would likely make the difference in speeds. Maybe I should talk to Allen about the engine. The original dyno run was low on power but that was attributed to high density altitude at the time. It should be producing a solid 210 HP since I asked them to mill .015 off the cylinder bases to increase compression a bit. I also have an oil leak (since new) directly over the alternator. I haven't yet discovered the source. Maybe I should fly the plane to OK and talk to Allen and Monty about the engine. Might be a good reason for a nice flight. Stan Sutterfield On multiple occasions, I have seen a top speed of 229-230 mph true at about 2000 msl, full throttle, and 2700 rpm, and gently leaned. This was confirmed by the GPS GS from both the EFIS GPS and the Kenwood GPS. The autopilot was on to assure no ascending/descending error. These were on cool evenings (70-75f). That being said, there are other days when it won't go much above 222-225 mph. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2010
Subject: image 1
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Stan, I hate to tell you this, but your inability to achieve the higher speeds is to sell your 3 blade MT to some one you do not like, and use the proceeds to buy either the New blended airfoil blade Hartzell from Vans AC, or better yet, buy a Aerocomposites 2 blade 72 or 74 inch propeller. Also, you could contact Same James and consider one of his cowlings and plenum chambers (proven speed prudecers). Good luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:36 PM, wrote: > > Well, I had to see what my IO-390 RV-8A would do at 18K, so today I climbed > to 17,500 (couldn't get ATC clearance higher) and had the following numbers: > 15.4" MP - 2400 RPM - 8.5 GPH - KIAS 124 - KTAS 166 (191 MPH) > 15.4" MP - 2310 RPM - 9.0 GPH - KIAS 120 - KTAS 162 (186 MPH) > Fuel pump was out of service, so I'll confirm the actual fuel burn next > week. > I'm simply not getting your numbers, Matt. Must be my ham fisted flying. > I can't imagine that the engines are that much different. > Scratching my cranium. > Stan Sutterfield > > Matt, > I must be doing something wrong because my IO-390 powered RV-8A numbers > aren't even close to yours. > At 7K', to get 177 KTAS (204 MPH TAS) I have to burn 10.2 GPH and turn 2450 > > RPM. I can get 3000 FPM climb, but only to pattern altitude. Enroute > climb at 145-150 KIAS produces only 600 FPM. I've climbed to 15.5K' and > I'm > planning a test flight to FL240 - to see if it will make it. > I have Bower's ram air and a MT 3 blade - both of which should help with > high altitude performance. > I'm planning a trip from FL to VT in 2 weeks, so I'll see how my cruise > numbers are after that flight. > But, with the numbers I have now, I'm nowhere near your numbers. > I wonder why? > Stan Sutterfield > rv-8a.net > > On the way home, I had the IO-390 engine dialed in at 7000ft, 22.4" MP / > 2200 RPM and 204 MPH True at 8.8 GPH. Earlier in the week I took it to > 18,000ft > (on oxygen) and was seeing 170 MPH True at 5.5 GPH, 192 MPH @ 6.5 GPH, and > 202 MPG @ 7 GPH. At the 5.5 GPH, that's about a 1300 mile range less > reserves. > Coupled with the 3000+ FPM climb solo > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 19, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/18/10
Yes - but not 6 knots different. Stan You have different props, right? Gordon Comfort ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/18/10
Date: Aug 20, 2010
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:01 PM Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/18/10 Yes - but not 6 knots different. Stan You have different props, right? Gordon Comfort Stan: It might be possible. I know of one comparison on a Lancair 360 that originally had the Hartzell prop specifically for that aircraft, two blades, relatively short. When a three blade MT was installed it was found that the MT produced better initial acceleration and climb but top speed fell by 6 to 8 knots. I cannot vouch for the rigor of the testing but I can say that the man who told me of this was a Lancair employee who did a lot of test flying and demo flying for Lancair and who's powers of observation were pretty good. As to to comments by others on the James cowl and plenum, I am not persuaded that the James system offers any real advantages over a well done conventional cooling system. Note the "well done". Smith did not use a plenum on his Oshkosh 500 racer even though he was well aware of the arguments for and against. The round openings certainly work well but claims that they are somehow inherently better seem to me to be unfounded. The major reason the Raspet Center used round inlets in their cooling drag development work was that they are easier to calculate. It would be interesting to know if anyone out there has done any systematic comparison testing. Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Does anyone have a comparison of the Aerocomposites vs Whirlwind on the same airframe? I've heard that the WW is faster/more efficient but I'm biased. I've got a WW 200RV, RV-8, Superior Airparts IO-360 w/ Ryton exploding sump, lightspeed II ignition and I generally run 160 knots TAS 10,000 feet, 6.5 gph, WOT, LOP, 1950 RPM. Everything else about the airframe is pretty much standard. I'm very confident in that 6.5 GPH @ 160 knots TAS figure. I'm not as confident in other power setting since I generally just run in the econo cruise @ 160. As the fuel burns off I generally pick up 2-3 knots from the reduced weight. I know that for keeping the efficiency up the low RPM is key. Thanks, Bill judge, RV-8, N84WJ 515 Hrs rv-8.blogspot.com > > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV Speeds > From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> > > Stan, > I hate to tell you this, but your inability to achieve the higher speeds is > to sell your 3 blade MT to some one you do not like, and use the proceeds to > buy either the New blended airfoil blade Hartzell from Vans AC, or better > yet, buy a Aerocomposites 2 blade 72 or 74 inch propeller. Also, you could > contact Same James and consider one of his cowlings and plenum chambers > (proven speed prudecers). Good luck. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233M > the fast one > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 20, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Dick, You gave me the same advice standing in my hangar last Jan. Told you then I don't plan to change the prop. I'm going to experiment with reducing the size of the Van's inlets (ala Dave Anders) to see if I can gain anything. But, I'm not willing to toss my cowling and put on the James cowling. My homemade plenum is working great. CHTs are well under control and Oil temp is perfect at 180. I did take your advice to straighten out the exhaust pipes for some jet effect. I don't notice any difference. Except the exhaust is hitting the bottom of the plane. Are you coming to FL for the winter? Stan Sutterfield I hate to tell you this, but your inability to achieve the higher speeds is to sell your 3 blade MT to some one you do not like, and use the proceeds to buy either the New blended airfoil blade Hartzell from Vans AC, or better yet, buy a Aerocomposites 2 blade 72 or 74 inch propeller. Also, you could contact Same James and consider one of his cowlings and plenum chambers (proven speed prudecers). Good luck. Dick Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Performance Numbers - IO-390/Hartzell/RV-8
Dear Listers, So I could smell the disbelief in the air regarding my performance claims, so tonight after work I went up and did some testing. All tests were at the same altitude with the autopilot on, going the same direction (mostly South) with a Westerly wind over about the same 25 mile area. One interesting thing that I noticed tonight that I hadn't in the past was what a dramatic effect exacting leaning could have on the speed for a given power/prop setting. A small adjustment in the mixture could increase or decrease the speed sometimes as much as 5 MPH. Below is a table of the numbers I saw tonight. I've include the spreadsheet as well as photos of each setting from the EFIS PDF/Engine data. All numbers on the EFISs are in MPH. The GPS GS is in the upper left corner of the PFD. The TAS is on the bottom right side of the PFD display. Indicated is on the left side in the middle of the PFD. Temp is in the upper left corner of the Eng display. MAP, RPM, and Flow are also on the Eng display shown as gauges with text. An interesting thing I noticed that at 27.x MAP, adjusting the RPM between 2000 and 2690 had a 9.8 to 17.0 impact of fuel flow (7.2 GPH) and a 22MPH impact on speed. That's about a $32/hr difference. Emacs! Let the discussion begin... ;-) Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-8 - Performance Numbers - IO-390/Hartzell/RV-8
Dear Listers, I posted some performance number on the RV-List email forum the other day and based on the responses, I could smell the disbelief in the air regarding my claims. So, tonight after work I went up and did some testing. All tests were at the same altitude with the autopilot on, going the same direction (mostly South) with a Westerly wind over about the same 25 mile area. One interesting thing that I noticed tonight that I hadn't in the past was what a dramatic effect exacting leaning could have on the speed for a given power/prop setting. A small adjustment in the mixture could increase or decrease the speed sometimes as much as 5 MPH. Below is a table of the numbers I saw tonight. I've include the spreadsheet as well as photos of each setting from the EFIS PDF/Engine data. All numbers on the EFISs are in MPH. The GPS Ground Speed is in the upper left corner of the PFD. The True Airspeed is on the bottom right side of the PFD display. Indicated Speed is on the left side in the middle of the PFD. Temp is in the upper left corner of the Eng display. MAP (Manifold Pressure), RPM, and Flow are also on the Engine display shown as gauges with text. An interesting thing I noticed was that at 27.x MAP, adjusting the RPM between 2000 and 2690 had a 9.8 to 17.0 impact of fuel flow (7.2 GPH) and a 22 MPH impact on speed. That's about a $32/hr difference. Emacs! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 21, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Bill, Thanks for your input. Each data point is valuable and informative. 160 KTAS is impressive for 1950 RPM. I'll try the same parameters next time I go flying and report back. Stan Sutterfield I've got a WW 200RV, RV-8, Superior Airparts IO-360 w/ Ryton exploding sump, lightspeed II ignition and I generally run 160 knots TAS 10,000 feet, 6.5 gph, WOT, LOP, 1950 RPM. Everything else about the airframe is pretty much standard. I'm very confident in that 6.5 GPH @ 160 knots TAS figure. I'm not as confident in other power setting since I generally just run in the econo cruise @ 160. As the fuel burns off I generally pick up 2-3 knots from the reduced weight. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 21, 2010
Subject: Re: Performance Numbers - IO-390/Hartzell/RV-8
Matt, I didn't mean to insinuate there was an odor to your numbers. Rather the stink is on my numbers. I can't seem to reach the numbers that other guys can. I'm still working on it. The stink, that is. Stan Sutterfield So I could smell the disbelief in the air regarding my performance claims ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
From: Tracy <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com>
Mine aren't quite that good but in the same ballpark. Typical cruise conditions are 12,500 ft, 172 mph, 1965 RPM (at the prop) burning 6.5 gph. That's with one of those presumably gas hungry Mazda rotary engines. Tracy Crook On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 10:55 PM, wrote: > > Bill, > Thanks for your input. Each data point is valuable and informative. > 160 KTAS is impressive for 1950 RPM. I'll try the same parameters next > time I go flying and report back. > Stan Sutterfield > > I've got a WW 200RV, RV-8, Superior Airparts IO-360 w/ Ryton exploding > sump, lightspeed II ignition and I generally run 160 knots TAS 10,000 > feet, 6.5 gph, WOT, LOP, 1950 RPM. Everything else about the airframe > is pretty much standard. I'm very confident in that 6.5 GPH @ 160 > knots TAS figure. I'm not as confident in other power setting since I > generally just run in the econo cruise @ 160. As the fuel burns off I > generally pick up 2-3 knots from the reduced weight. > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
Well, some new numbers today. I filed IFR to FL200 and then continued the climb to FL240. It took awhile to get up there, but I made it. As it turns out, FL200 is the more comfortable (for aircraft handling) and fuel efficient altitude. FL200 WOT (13.8") 2400 RPM about 6.3 GPH IAS - 113K TAS - 160K Peak EGT OAT - 40F FL240 WOT (11.5") 2300 RPM about 6.3 GPH IAS - 92K TAS - 139K 40 LOP OAT - 28F CHTs and Oil Temp were no problem at all altitudes. I didn't have time to do a 10K' run to compare with Bill's numbers, but I'll try that in the AM if possible. Stan Sutterfield ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2010
From: "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com>
Subject: Floor Covering
Greetings Fellow RVers, Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Chet ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floor Covering
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Aug 22, 2010
I rented a floor surface grinder/concrete shaver and ran it all over the floor of my hangar prior to paint. Mine too was sealed and it seems to have worked great. 3 years do far and no paint lifting. -Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 22, 2010, at 8:34 PM, "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" wrote: > > Greetings Fellow RVers, > Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? > Thanks, Chet > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2010
From: "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com>
Subject: Re: Floor Covering
Cool, thanks Mike. -----Original Message----- From: "Michael Kraus" [n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net] Date: 08/22/2010 10:46 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Floor Covering I rented a floor surface grinder/concrete shaver and ran it all over the floor of my hangar prior to paint. Mine too was sealed and it seems to have worked great. 3 years do far and no paint lifting. -Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 22, 2010, at 8:34 PM, "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" wrote: > > Greetings Fellow RVers, > Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? > Thanks, Chet > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floor Covering
From: "William L. Paulin" <wpaulin(at)usa.net>
Date: Aug 22, 2010
Yes, Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage. Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product. If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine. Bill On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: Greetings Fellow RVers, Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Chet ********************************** William L. Paulin, Ph.D. 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)usa.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Floor Covering
Date: Aug 22, 2010
Aviation Consumer did a comparison and report on hanger (garage) floor paint a year or two ago. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William L. Paulin Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:28 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Floor Covering Yes, Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage. Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product. If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine. Bill On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: Greetings Fellow RVers, Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Chet ********************************** William L. Paulin, Ph.D. 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)usa.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floor Covering
From: "William L. Paulin" <wpaulin(at)usa.net>
Date: Aug 22, 2010
yes , thanks. That is where I got sent to the pros. bill On Aug 22, 2010, at 10:10 PM, Terry Watson wrote: Aviation Consumer did a comparison and report on hanger (garage) floor paint a year or two ago. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William L. Paulin Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:28 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Floor Covering Yes, Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage. Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product. If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine. Bill On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: Greetings Fellow RVers, Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Chet ********************************** William L. Paulin, Ph.D. 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)usa.net *********************************** William & Sandra Paulin 1575 South Forest Drive Prescott, AZ 86303 Bill Cell +1 858 722 2905 Office +1 760 720 2905 Europe +358 40 720 4047 wpaulin(at)usa.net Sandy Cell +1 858 349 1729 Office +1 928 443 7739 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floor Covering
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Aug 23, 2010
I used this stuff: http://www.epoxy-coat.com/ A buddy and I did it ourselves in about 8 hours. 44x62' hangar floor. One guy mixes and pours, the other squeegies and rolls. I was pleased with the results after 3 years. I too was told to stay away from the Rust Oleum stuff (although I like their other paint products) -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Aug 23, 2010, at 12:28 AM, "William L. Paulin" wrote: > > Yes, > > Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage. > > Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product. If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine. > > Bill > > > On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: > > > Greetings Fellow RVers, > Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does anyone have suggestions? > Thanks, Chet > > > > > > > ********************************** > William L. Paulin, Ph.D. > 1575 South Forest Drive > Prescott, AZ 86303 > > Cell +1 858 722 2905 > Office +1 760 720 2905 > Europe +358 40 720 4047 > > wpaulin(at)usa.net > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2010
From: <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Floor Covering
I used Rustoleum on my hanger floor more than 10 years ago and it is still great. I did sand the floor first, using a rental floor polisher with an open grit. then applied two coats. Louis Someday RV-8 ---- Terry Watson wrote: > > Aviation Consumer did a comparison and report on hanger (garage) floor paint > a year or two ago. > > Terry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William L. Paulin > Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:28 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Floor Covering > > > Yes, > > Do not use Rustoleum. It will chip and peal and come off from oil or fuel > or even just time. I know, I tried it in a garage. > > Hire a professional you find on line to put on an industrial grade product. > If you search on line, you will find pilot / hangar horror stories as I did > after my first try. My second try with a pro worked fine. > > Bill > > > On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:34 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: > > > > Greetings Fellow RVers, > Quick Build RV-8 wings and fuselage are coming next week, so I'm finishing > up on the hangar. I got this new Rustoleum Epoxyshield garage floor 2-part > epoxy. The contractor used a cure/sealer on the concrete slab. Instructions > from Rustoleum say the product can't be applied over a sealer--must be to > bare concrete. The contractor said use muriatic acid to remove the > cure/sealer. Rustoleum instructions say not to use muriatic acid, instead to > use the citric acid provided with the kit. But the citric acid doesn't seem > to remove the cure/sealer. I will probably call Rustoleum tomorrow, but does > anyone have suggestions? > Thanks, Chet > > > > > > > ********************************** > William L. Paulin, Ph.D. > 1575 South Forest Drive > Prescott, AZ 86303 > > Cell +1 858 722 2905 > Office +1 760 720 2905 > Europe +358 40 720 4047 > > wpaulin(at)usa.net > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2010
Subject: Re: RV Speeds
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Bill< I have raced against Whirlwinds and find them to be good performers, however I can usually outrun them by an average 5 knot difference, Good Luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 8:32 AM, Bill Judge wrote: > > Does anyone have a comparison of the Aerocomposites vs Whirlwind on > the same airframe? I've heard that the WW is faster/more efficient > but I'm biased. > > I've got a WW 200RV, RV-8, Superior Airparts IO-360 w/ Ryton exploding > sump, lightspeed II ignition and I generally run 160 knots TAS 10,000 > feet, 6.5 gph, WOT, LOP, 1950 RPM. Everything else about the airframe > is pretty much standard. I'm very confident in that 6.5 GPH @ 160 > knots TAS figure. I'm not as confident in other power setting since I > generally just run in the econo cruise @ 160. As the fuel burns off I > generally pick up 2-3 knots from the reduced weight. > > I know that for keeping the efficiency up the low RPM is key. > > Thanks, > Bill judge, RV-8, N84WJ 515 Hrs > rv-8.blogspot.com > > > > > > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV Speeds > > From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> > > > > Stan, > > I hate to tell you this, but your inability to achieve the higher speeds > is > > to sell your 3 blade MT to some one you do not like, and use the proceeds > to > > buy either the New blended airfoil blade Hartzell from Vans AC, or better > > yet, buy a Aerocomposites 2 blade 72 or 74 inch propeller. Also, you > could > > contact Same James and consider one of his cowlings and plenum chambers > > (proven speed prudecers). Good luck. > > Dick Martin > > RV8 N233M > > the fast one > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Aug 25, 2010
Subject: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
At 07:44 PM 8/25/2010 Wednesday, Robin Marks wrote: >Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? > >Thanks, >Robin Hi Robin, Here's a ton of documentation on what I did with the installation of the ELT and antenna. I've got the unit that takes a GPS serial input and transmits your last coordinates as well. Pretty cool feature. Lots of dialog on the various pages about setting it up, etc. http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77846&row=50 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77847&row=49 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77848&row=48 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77849&row=47 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77850&row=46 - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 90+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com>
Subject: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
Date: Aug 26, 2010
I installed mine on the wingtip. IM003188.JPG Vince RV8432 at 63hrs From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: August 25, 2010 7:44 PM Subject: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Ideal? Probably not, but mine worked fine under the VS. __ Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Aug 25, 2010 10:45 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote: Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? Thanks, Robin * * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Elton" <estone(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
Date: Aug 26, 2010
Larry As a A&P and a previous builder of a RV6 I recommend aft of the canopy about 6". It is out of way plus the airflow is decreased in that area thus crap that flys over the canopy doesn't hit the antenna. And flying, and repairs, I have seen it all! Elton Stone AYSO Referee Administrator 1091/13/G Description: j0395780 From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:20 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Ideal? Probably not, but mine worked fine under the VS. __ Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Aug 25, 2010 10:45 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote: Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? Thanks, Robin et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
Date: Aug 26, 2010
I think the RV-8's sliding canopy slides all the way to the vertical stabilizer. Terry From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Elton Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:51 PM Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Larry As a A&P and a previous builder of a RV6 I recommend aft of the canopy about 6". It is out of way plus the airflow is decreased in that area thus crap that flys over the canopy doesn't hit the antenna. And flying, and repairs, I have seen it all! Elton Stone AYSO Referee Administrator 1091/13/G Description: j0395780 From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:20 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Ideal? Probably not, but mine worked fine under the VS. __ Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Aug 25, 2010 10:45 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote: Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? Thanks, Robin et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna
Date: Aug 29, 2010
I have my elt in the rear baggage compartment and the antenna mounted on th e rear seat right armrest with the whip rapping up around the right seat. L ooks good and is not in the way. Paul From: terry(at)tcwatson.com Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Date: Thu=2C 26 Aug 2010 20:03:11 -0700 I think the RV-8=92s sliding canopy slides all the way to the vertical stab ilizer. Terry From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Elton Sent: Thursday=2C August 26=2C 2010 4:51 PM Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Larry As a A&P and a previous builder of a RV6 I recommend aft of the canopy ab out 6=94. It is out of way plus the airflow is decreased in that area thus crap that flys over the canopy doesn=92t hit the antenna. And flying=2C an d repairs=2C I have seen it all! Elton Stone AYSO Referee Administrator 1091/13/G From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Sent: Thursday=2C August 26=2C 2010 4:20 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8A Ideal ELT Location & Antenna Ideal? Probably not=2C but mine worked fine under the VS. __ Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Aug 25=2C 2010 10:45 PM=2C "Robin Marks" wrote: Is there an ideal location for the ELT and ELT Antenna on an RV-8A? 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Date: Aug 29, 2010
From: "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com>
Subject: RV-8 QB Kit
Hey Guys, Great news. The RV-8 QB fuselage and wings arrived. So here's the question. The construction manual lists all of the individual steps, and the order in which they need to be completed. But that is for the standard build, not the quick build kit. Is there a published list of the steps that have already been completed in the QB kit, or do I need to go through the construction manual and figure out exactly which steps have already been done for me by the factory? I would hate to just start crossing construction steps off and then find out that some step that I thought had been done has, in fact not been done yet. Any thoughts? Thanks, Chet ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-8 QB Kit
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
In my circa 2001 8QB kit/manual, one had to go through the manual, page by page, and check off what had or had not been done. And be creative in some areas! Dale On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 10:59 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: > > Hey Guys, > Great news. The RV-8 QB fuselage and wings arrived. So here's the question. The construction manual lists all of the individual steps, and the order in which they need to be completed. But that is for the standard build, not the quick build kit. Is there a published list of the steps that have already been completed in the QB kit, or do I need to go through the construction manual and figure out exactly which steps have already been done for me by the factory? I would hate to just start crossing construction steps off and then find out that some step that I thought had been done has, in fact not been done yet. Any thoughts? > Thanks, Chet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-8 QB Kit
From: Tracy <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com>
Yep, that was my major complaint with the -8 QB kit. "Special" QB instructions for the Fuse read "Start at the aft end and work forward" Spent a lot of time combing through the standard plans. Tracy Crook On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 10:59 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com < cs(at)charlesstringham.com> wrote: > cs(at)charlesstringham.com> > > Hey Guys, > Great news. The RV-8 QB fuselage and wings arrived. So here's the question. > The construction manual lists all of the individual steps, and the order in > which they need to be completed. But that is for the standard build, not the > quick build kit. Is there a published list of the steps that have already > been completed in the QB kit, or do I need to go through the construction > manual and figure out exactly which steps have already been done for me by > the factory? I would hate to just start crossing construction steps off and > then find out that some step that I thought had been done has, in fact not > been done yet. Any thoughts? > Thanks, Chet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Date: Aug 30, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-8 QB Kit
My 2004 -8A QB instructions contained statement somewhere up front that no instructions changes were made to accommodate quick builders (QB - an oxymo ron in my case - 3 year project going on for 6 years). I initially thought that was a Vans cop-out, but having to carefully peruse the plans and then determine what was already factory-done provided a pretty detailed understa nding of the big picture process. Don't get hung up on the order of construction tasks - especially after to get the emp, ailerons, flaps, and wings fitted. I've also found that with the firewall forward and finishing kits, the instructions are advisory only ; have to figure out design and fit stuff on your own. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-8 QB Kit
From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Date: Aug 30, 2010
VGhhbmtzIGV2ZXJ5b25lIGZvciB5b3VyIGFkdmljZS4gSW5kZWVkIHRoZXJlIGlzIGEgbm90ZSBp biB0aGUgZnVzZWxhZ2Ugc2VjdGlvbiBhYm91dCBzdGFydGluZyBhdCBwYWdlIDQyIGZvciBRQi4g QnV0IEkgdGhpbmsgSSB3aWxsIGdvIHRocm91Z2ggaXRlbXMgb25lIGJ5IG9uZSB0byBnYWluIGEg YmV0dGVyIHVuZGVyc3RhbmRpbmcuICBDaGV0IA0KU2VudCBmcm9tIG15IFZlcml6b24gV2lyZWxl c3MgQmxhY2tCZXJyeQ0KDQotLS0tLU9yaWdpbmFsIE1lc3NhZ2UtLS0tLQ0KRnJvbTogIlZhbG92 aWNoLCBQYXVsIiA8cHZhbG92aWNoQGRjc2NvcnAuY29tPg0KU2VuZGVyOiBvd25lci1ydjgtbGlz dC1zZXJ2ZXJAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0KRGF0ZTogTW9uLCAzMCBBdWcgMjAxMCAwOTo0MDo0OSAN ClRvOiBydjgtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPHJ2OC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20+DQpSZXBs eS1UbzogcnY4LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0KU3ViamVjdDogUmU6IFJWOC1MaXN0OiBSVi04 IFFCIEtpdA0KDQpNeSAyMDA0IC04QSBRQiBpbnN0cnVjdGlvbnMgY29udGFpbmVkIHN0YXRlbWVu dCBzb21ld2hlcmUgdXAgZnJvbnQgdGhhdCBubyBpbnN0cnVjdGlvbnMgY2hhbmdlcyB3ZXJlIG1h ZGUgdG8gYWNjb21tb2RhdGUgcXVpY2sgYnVpbGRlcnMgKFFCIC0gYW4gb3h5bW9yb24gaW4gbXkg Y2FzZSAtIDMgeWVhciBwcm9qZWN0IGdvaW5nIG9uIGZvciA2IHllYXJzKS4gSSBpbml0aWFsbHkg dGhvdWdodCB0aGF0IHdhcyBhIFZhbnMgY29wLW91dCwgYnV0IGhhdmluZyB0byBjYXJlZnVsbHkg cGVydXNlIHRoZSBwbGFucyBhbmQgdGhlbiBkZXRlcm1pbmUgd2hhdCB3YXMgYWxyZWFkeSBmYWN0 b3J5LWRvbmUgcHJvdmlkZWQgYSBwcmV0dHkgZGV0YWlsZWQgdW5kZXJzdGFuZGluZyBvZiB0aGUg YmlnIHBpY3R1cmUgcHJvY2Vzcy4NCg0KRG9uJ3QgZ2V0IGh1bmcgdXAgb24gdGhlIG9yZGVyIG9m IGNvbnN0cnVjdGlvbiB0YXNrcyAtIGVzcGVjaWFsbHkgYWZ0ZXIgdG8gZ2V0IHRoZSBlbXAsIGFp bGVyb25zLCBmbGFwcywgYW5kIHdpbmdzIGZpdHRlZC4gIEkndmUgYWxzbyBmb3VuZCB0aGF0IHdp dGggdGhlIGZpcmV3YWxsIGZvcndhcmQgYW5kIGZpbmlzaGluZyBraXRzLCB0aGUgaW5zdHJ1Y3Rp b25zIGFyZSBhZHZpc29yeSBvbmx5OyBoYXZlIHRvIGZpZ3VyZSBvdXQgZGVzaWduIGFuZCBmaXQg c3R1ZmYgb24geW91ciBvd24uDQoNCg0KDQoNCg0KDQoNCg= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: A Rotisserie
From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Date: Aug 30, 2010
The next question: Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? Chet Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2010
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
I built one late in my QB construction and wish I had done it a lot earlier .- It eliminates or reduces a lot of bendiing over the longerons to acces s the inside of the fuselage.- - Craig Gallenbach RV8A N184CG- 145 hrs --- On Mon, 8/30/10, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrot e: From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> Subject: RV8-List: A Rotisserie Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 11:03 AM The next question: Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? Chet Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD" <gaillard.peck.ctr(at)nellis.af.mil>
Date: Aug 30, 2010
Subject: A Rotisserie
Craig, Are there plans available for the fuselage rotisserie? Gail Peck, Las Vegas RV-8 Wings - Tanks under construction and thinking about the Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Gallenbach Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 12:12 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: A Rotisserie I built one late in my QB construction and wish I had done it a lot earlier. It eliminates or reduces a lot of bendiing over the longerons to access the inside of the fuselage. Craig Gallenbach RV8A N184CG 145 hrs --- On Mon, 8/30/10, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrote: From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> Subject: RV8-List: A Rotisserie To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 11:03 AM The next question: Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? Chet Sent frs.com/Navigator?RV8-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigato A href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target=_blank>http://forums.matrobsp; - List Contribution Web Site -http://www====================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2010
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: A Rotisserie
Gail, - I really didn't have anyplans and was not one to document all the details w ith photos when I was building.- It amounted to a little imagination-an d-a trip or two to Home Depot.- I also put the whole assembly on caster s so it could be rolled around the-hanger as needed. - Craig --- On Mon, 8/30/10, Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD wrote: From: Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD <gaillard.peck.ctr(at)nellis.af .mil> Subject: RE: RV8-List: A Rotisserie Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:57 PM Craig, Are there plans available for the fuselage rotisserie? Gail Peck, Las Vegas RV-8 Wings - Tanks under construction and thinking about the Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Gallenbach Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 12:12 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: A Rotisserie I built one late in my QB construction and wish I had done it a lot earlier .- It eliminates or reduces a lot of bendiing over the longerons to acces s the inside of the fuselage.- Craig Gallenbach RV8A N184CG- 145 hrs --- On Mon, 8/30/10, cs(at)charlesstringham.com wrot e: --- From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> --- Subject: RV8-List: A Rotisserie --- To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com --- Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 11:03 AM --- --- s.mc632.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=cs(at)charlesstringham.com> --- --- The next question: Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? Ch et --- Sent frs.com/Navigator?RV8-List" target=_blank>http://www.matro nics.com/Navigato- - - - ---A href="http://forums.matronics .com/" target=_blank>http://forums.matrobsp;- - - - - - List Co ntribution Web Site -http://www============== ======== --- --- --- --- le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 31, 2010
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? In a word - yes. Use your imagination to build it (should be fairly simple). I didn't build one, but should have. I kept the fuselage low to the ground on spar inserts with wheels for as long as possible. Something to rotate the fuselage would have been helpful - consider putting it on locking wheels. There may be one for sale "out there" that would save you time, money and effort. As far as the builders manual goes - I've always told potential quick builders to not depend on it. It basically says "build wing, attach wing." Just flew my 8A from Daytona Beach to VT and back. I took a cruise through the Hudson VFR corridor on the way up and flew over JFK at 10.5 on the way back. Stan Sutterfield ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com>
Subject: Rotisserie
Date: Aug 31, 2010
I'm building a rotisserie for my 8 QB fuselage. Not finished yet, but will provide photos to anyone interested when I'm done. It's mostly scrap plywood. The spindles will be pipes, and I'll set each end into brackets bolted or clamped to short step ladders. Won't be mobile, but I have a wheeled dolly for that purpose. My only question is where to mount the spindles on the vertical centerline. Would like to be close to the mass cg not including the gear. Once the fuselage is inverted, I'll stabilize it with supports under the longerons, so gear weight won't matter. Stan Loer RV-8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2010
From: <geezer02(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
Is there any one that needs a wing rack. This is a rack just to hold the wings after they are built, if so I have a set not being used any more. not the rotisserie but still useful. Louis Dunn RV-8 Someday Getting closer. 704-562-3747 ---- Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Shall I build a fuselage rotisserie or not? > In a word - yes. > > Use your imagination to build it (should be fairly simple). I didn't > build one, but should have. I kept the fuselage low to the ground on spar > inserts with wheels for as long as possible. Something to rotate the fuselage > would have been helpful - consider putting it on locking wheels. > > There may be one for sale "out there" that would save you time, money and > effort. > > As far as the builders manual goes - I've always told potential quick > builders to not depend on it. It basically says "build wing, attach wing." > > Just flew my 8A from Daytona Beach to VT and back. I took a cruise > through the Hudson VFR corridor on the way up and flew over JFK at 10.5 on the > way back. > > Stan Sutterfield ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
Date: Sep 01, 2010
Simple rotisserie rotates on two 1/2" bolts. Work standing or sitting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Date: Sep 01, 2010
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
Check the archives - I built mine based on posts and pix from precious post ers. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD" <gaillard.peck.ctr(at)nellis.af.mil>
Date: Sep 01, 2010
Subject: Re: A Rotisserie
Nice. Thanks. Gail Peck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Grimmonpre Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 3:29 AM Subject: RV8-List: Re: A Rotisserie Simple rotisserie rotates on two 1/2" bolts. Work standing or sitting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com>
Subject: Gear Installation
Date: Sep 03, 2010
I'm about ready to invert my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing gear installation. Is there anything I need to know that is not covered in the instructions? It's such a critical installlation that I want to be as accurate as humanly possible. I'm using Van's stock gear legs. Any advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. Stan Loer ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gear Installation
From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Date: Sep 03, 2010
Hi Stan, Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in th e process, and I too look forward to some wisdom from the others. Chet Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:54:52 Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Gear Installation
Date: Sep 03, 2010
On my 8=2C I spent a long time making sure that the gear was square to the center line of the fuselage and that the and only needed half a degree of s him to make my axles perfectly straight. In making it so close on the init ial install=2C the two outside bolts ended up not being in the center of t he gear leg tower (slightly to the rear)=2C and consequently=2C it is diffi cult to get a wrench on the rear most outside nuts with out removing some o f the smaller nuts and bolts of the tower. My advise is to square the legs to the fuselage and centered in the tower=2C then just use a couple more s hims at the axle to make them spot on. Good luck=2C Paul 800 plus landings on original vans tires and still going Subject: Re: RV8-List: Gear Installation From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com Date: Fri=2C 3 Sep 2010 18:40:23 +0000 Hi Stan=2C Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in the process=2C and I too look forward to some wisdom from the others. Chet Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com Date: Fri=2C 3 Sep 2010 10:54:52 -0700 ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation I'm about ready to invert = my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing g ear installation. Is there = anything I need to know that is not co vered in the instructions? It's such a = critical installlation tha t I want to be as accurate as humanly possible. = I'm using Van's s tock gear legs. Any advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. Stan Loer 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ky=B7=E8=9E=DB"=CD=ED=C3=D9=CA%=A2=BD4=D3M4}=A7=1E=DC7(=BA=B8=9E=AEw=B0r=8B =AB=89=EA=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 =0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp =F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 8 ^E_ =8A=CBD=99=A8=A5=16=8A=EE=9Bp=D4=B1=EBax=C6=AD=AE=89r=C2=B2=D1^j =DB=ABz=C3Z=BE(=1A=B6=8A=ED=A1=BA=E8=C2=C7=B7=0E=D8^=99=A9=F2.+-=BA=D8=A5 =8A=D8=9E=B2=CB=9C=85=AB =8A=CBT=9F=AEn=C7+=8A=9Bb=A2}=C3=02=B7!=8A=F7 =92y=DC=84:0=9EZ=1Aw=B0=DA=C8=1A=E8=C2=C7=82=85=ABE=01 =C3>=1A-=A2=C8Z =AD=E6=A7vk=9C=86k=9C=86j+{p=F7 =A8ky=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r =C7(=9B=F3Z=BE(=1A=B6=8A=D1W=C2=B2=D8m=B6=9F=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89 5=AB=81=ABh=AD=15|.+-=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC= =C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3 =DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC ==C3=DC3�=3BM=13=8D $'=10=11NEC=12=DC4=9A=99=E8+y=AB\=A2{^=9E=D6=A5 =B2=86=AFj)ZnW=AF=89=ABayg=9B=16=8A=EE=9A=CD=C3=DC6=A1=AD=E7=F7=0E=1Bm=A7 =FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9A=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89 r=C7(=9B=F6=B7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 =0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp =F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 =0Fp=F7=0Fp=CB=8A=CBB=A2{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=D6y=B4=A2=B5=ED=C3N=16=A7=93*.~ =8A=F2=A2=EA=E0zw=AB=A2=EB=2C=BA=9Ah=AE=DD=C31=ABm=0E=B6=A5-=B2=D0 =1D=9A)=F7 =A8ky=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F7(=9E=DAn =EBb=A2xm=B6=9F=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89r=89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'=FD=AD=C3=DC ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC= =C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3 =DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Installation
The plans say to leave the gear off as long as possible and they aren't kidding. Resist the urge to install them just because you want to see how cool its going to look on the gear. I left my -8 fuse on the saw horse until just before I started the engine installation. At that point, all of the wiring was done, the interior was done, and the canopy was done. It sits up high on the gear and makes it a lot more difficult to work on. And I'm a tall dude. The only thing I would have done differently would have been to REMOVE the instrument panel and instruments before I started the gear leg installation process. It would have be 100x easier to get to the nuts in the gear towers without the panel in place. Speaking of gear, if you haven't ordered a set of Grove Gear for the RV-8, then do it! Delete the Steel gear from your Van's Kit (or return them), and get yourself a set of the all aluminum Grove gear for the RV-8. They are a work of art and are over 10 lbs LIGHTER than the stock steel gear. Even better, they are already airfoil shaped, so you don't have to mess with the fiberglass fairings. Win win win. Cost is the only drawback. But, they are well worth the investment. I documented the installation process pretty well on my RV-8 Builders Log: Grove RV-8 Aluminum Gear ------------------------ http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67042&row=447 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67043&row=446 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67068&row=420 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67069&row=419 RV-8 Landing Gear Installation ------------------------------ http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log004&row=853 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67851&row=852 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log012&row=851 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67852&row=850 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67853&row=849 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log013&row=848 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67854&row=847 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67855&row=846 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log014&row=845 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67856&row=844 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=72542&row=843 RV-8 Landing Gear Alignment -------------------------- http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log015&row=842 http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log016&row=841 - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 90+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute... At 11:40 AM 9/3/2010 Friday, you wrote: >Hi Stan,Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in the process, and I too look forward to some wisdom from the others. Chet > >From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> >Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:54:52 -0700 >Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation >I'm about ready to invert = my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing gear installation. Is there = anything I need to know that is not covered in the instructions? It's such a = critical installlation that I want to be as accurate as humanly possible. = I'm using Van's stock gear legs. Any advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. > >Stan Loer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "james d winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Installation
Date: Sep 03, 2010
i put grove gr, wheels. and tail wheel on first step out of the quick build box . i have no regrets..j .. rv-8 160 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 04, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 09/03/10
From: John Long <johnlong63(at)gmail.com>
Stan, I did my gear at the same place you are now. Be very careful aligning up everything and then go ahead.When you have everything as you want it, take it back off and store it on the shelf until you are thru inside the fuselage. Then just before you mount the engine put it back on and torque it down. Have fun! John L RV8 99% complete On Sat, Sep 4, 2010 at 2:59 AM, RV8-List Digest Server < rv8-list(at)matronics.com> wrote: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-09-03&Archive=RV8 > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-09-03&Archive=RV8 > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Fri 09/03/10: 5 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 10:57 AM - Gear Installation (Stan Loer) > 2. 11:42 AM - Re: Gear Installation (cs(at)charlesstringham.com) > 3. 02:59 PM - Re: Gear Installation (Paul Rice) > 4. 06:03 PM - Re: Gear Installation (Matt Dralle) > 5. 06:31 PM - Re: Re: Gear Installation (james d winkler) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> > Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation > > I'm about ready to invert my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing gear > installation. Is there anything I need to know that is not covered in > the instructions? It's such a critical installlation that I want to be > as accurate as humanly possible. I'm using Van's stock gear legs. Any > advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. > > Stan Loer > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Gear Installation > From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com > > Hi Stan, > Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in th > e process, and I too look forward to some wisdom from > the others. > Chet > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> > Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Gear Installation > > > On my 8=2C I spent a long time making sure that the gear was square to the > center line of the fuselage and that the and only needed half a degree of s > him to make my axles perfectly straight. In making it so close on the init > ial install=2C the two outside bolts ended up not being in the center of t > he gear leg tower (slightly to the rear)=2C and consequently=2C it is diffi > cult to get a wrench on the rear most outside nuts with out removing some o > f the smaller nuts and bolts of the tower. My advise is to square the legs > to the fuselage and centered in the tower=2C then just use a couple more s > hims at the axle to make them spot on. > > Good luck=2C > > Paul > 800 plus landings on original vans tires and still going > > > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Gear Installation > From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com > > > Hi Stan=2C > Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in the process=2C and I too > look forward to some wisdom from the others. > Chet > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > > From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> > Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation > > > I'm about ready to invert = my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing g > ear installation. Is there = anything I need to know that is not co > vered in the instructions? It's such a = critical installlation tha > t I want to be as accurate as humanly possible. = I'm using Van's s > tock gear legs. Any advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. > > Stan Loer > > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D============== > 3D > > ky=B7=E8=9E=DB"=CD=ED=C3=D9=CA%=A2=BD4=D3M4}=A7=1E=DC7(=BA=B8=9E=AEw=B0r=8B > =AB=89=EA=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 > =0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp > =F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 8 > ^E_ =8A=CBD=99=A8=A5=16=8A=EE=9Bp=D4=B1=EBax=C6=AD=AE=89r=C2=B2=D1^j > =DB=ABz=C3Z=BE(=1A=B6=8A=ED=A1=BA=E8=C2=C7=B7=0E=D8^=99=A9=F2.+-=BA=D8=A5 > =8A=D8=9E=B2=CB=9C=85=AB =8A=CBT=9F=AEn=C7+=8A=9Bb=A2}=C3=02=B7!=8A=F7 > =92y=DC=84:0=9EZ=1Aw=B0=DA=C8=1A=E8=C2=C7=82=85=ABE=01 =C3>=1A-=A2=C8Z > =AD=E6=A7vk=9C=86k=9C=86j+{p=F7 =A8ky=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r > =C7(=9B=F3Z=BE(=1A=B6=8A=D1W=C2=B2=D8m=B6=9F=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89 > 5=AB=81=ABh=AD=15|.+-=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC > ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC > =C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3 > =DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC > ==C3=DC3�=3BM=13=8D $'=10=11NEC=12=DC4=9A=99=E8+y=AB\=A2{^=9E=D6=A5 > =B2=86=AFj)ZnW=AF=89=ABayg=9B=16=8A=EE=9A=CD=C3=DC6=A1=AD=E7=F7=0E=1Bm=A7 > =FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9A=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89 > r=C7(=9B=F6=B7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 > =0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp > =F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7 > =0Fp=F7=0Fp=CB=8A=CBB=A2{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=D6y=B4=A2=B5=ED=C3N=16=A7=93*.~ > =8A=F2=A2=EA=E0zw=AB=A2=EB=2C=BA=9Ah=AE=DD=C31=ABm=0E=B6=A5-=B2=D0 > =1D=9A)=F7 =A8ky=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F7(=9E=DAn > =EBb=A2xm=B6=9F=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89r=89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'=FD=AD=C3=DC > ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC > =C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3 > =DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC > ==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV8-List: Re: Gear Installation > > > The plans say to leave the gear off as long as possible and they aren't > kidding. > Resist the urge to install them just because you want to see how cool its > going > to look on the gear. I left my -8 fuse on the saw horse until just before > I started the engine installation. At that point, all of the wiring was > done, > the interior was done, and the canopy was done. It sits up high on the > gear > and makes it a lot more difficult to work on. And I'm a tall dude. > > The only thing I would have done differently would have been to REMOVE the > instrument > panel and instruments before I started the gear leg installation process. > It would have be 100x easier to get to the nuts in the gear towers without > the panel in place. > > Speaking of gear, if you haven't ordered a set of Grove Gear for the RV-8, > then > do it! Delete the Steel gear from your Van's Kit (or return them), and get > yourself > a set of the all aluminum Grove gear for the RV-8. They are a work of > art and are over 10 lbs LIGHTER than the stock steel gear. Even better, > they > are already airfoil shaped, so you don't have to mess with the fiberglass > fairings. > Win win win. Cost is the only drawback. But, they are well worth the > investment. > > I documented the installation process pretty well on my RV-8 Builders Log: > > > Grove RV-8 Aluminum Gear > ------------------------ > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67042&row=447 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67043&row=446 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67068&row=420 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67069&row=419 > > > RV-8 Landing Gear Installation > ------------------------------ > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log004&row=853 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67851&row=852 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log012&row=851 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67852&row=850 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67853&row=849 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log013&row=848 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67854&row=847 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67855&row=846 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log014&row=845 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=67856&row=844 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=72542&row=843 > > > RV-8 Landing Gear Alignment > -------------------------- > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log015&row=842 > > > http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log016&row=841 > > > - > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 90+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute... > > > At 11:40 AM 9/3/2010 Friday, you wrote: > >Hi Stan,Thanks for the question. I am at the same place in the process, > and I > too look forward to some wisdom from the others. Chet > > > >From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> > >Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:54:52 -0700 > >Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation > >I'm about ready to invert = my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing gear > installation. > Is there = anything I need to know that is not covered in the > instructions? > It's such a = critical installlation that I want to be as accurate > as humanly possible. = I'm using Van's stock gear legs. Any > advice/tips/cautions/etc. > greatly appreciated. > > > >Stan Loer > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "james d winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Gear Installation > > > i put grove gr, wheels. and tail wheel on first step out of the quick build > box . i have no regrets..j .. rv-8 160 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gear Installation
From: "pilotjt" <jtmccracken(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2010
Stan, Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. Make sure you have a variety of sockets and extensions on hand. I seem to remember grinding down one of the socket heads and running an extension w/universal socket adapter, out of the gear boxes. My blog might have a pic or two to help. Look under the landing gear label. -JT www.jtsrv8projectblogspot.com :D -------- Regards, JT RV8 N110JT FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311373#311373 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Gear Installation
Date: Sep 04, 2010
Stan, This is a suggestion for after you have the legs positioned and drilled. Van recommends you re-torque the gear leg bolts at 10 hours, 50 hours and every annual after that. Getting into the gear leg towers of a completed -8 and getting a socket on the gear leg nuts is a royal pain. Go to the forums on Vansairforce and search RV-8 torque gear leg bolts for a discussion of the problems. There are several suggestions for making this easier. I used the "cut a socket shorter and grind the side off it" method, but it is still a lot of work and lying in an uncomfortable position. The suggestion I like best is to buy longer bolts and add washers under the nut to raise it out of the channel in which it sits. I think that would help getting access to the nuts. Also take a look at the pilot hole Van has in the fuselage marking the location of the vent line entry into the tower from the tank. It is positioned exactly over the aft nut/bolt and that means the line has to be removed to get at that nut (at least I had to remove it). Move the vent line entry to some other location if you can. I'd also recommend opening up the lightening holes and replacing the removed piece with a cover. John Ciolino RV-8 N894Y From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan Loer Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 1:55 PM Subject: RV8-List: Gear Installation I'm about ready to invert my 8 QB fuselage and start the landing gear installation. Is there anything I need to know that is not covered in the instructions? It's such a critical installlation that I want to be as accurate as humanly possible. I'm using Van's stock gear legs. Any advice/tips/cautions/etc. greatly appreciated. Stan Loer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com>
Subject: Response to gear question
Date: Sep 05, 2010
Thanks to all who responded to my question on gear installation. Great comments, and I'm going to print and review them before I start. May hold off until I get some other things done. Thanks, Matt for the list and thanks to builders for sharing. Finished my rotisserie yesterday. It actually works. I don't have a web site or blog, but will gladly provide photos and details to anyone interested. The materials are scrap plywood and 2x4 blocks, galvanized pipe and pipe flanges, and 2 ft. alum. step ladders as supports. Tried to keep it cheap and simple. Stan Loer RV8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV8- Jell Coat Painting
Date: Sep 14, 2010
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Dear Builder Buds, I'm down to painting wing tips and not sure what to san d the jell coat with to get the primer to stick. What grit sandpaper will rough it enough to allow the epoxy primer to adhere, but not eat into the hard coating ? Best regards, Bill of Georgia RV-8a, N228WP reserved, pain ting in prep for final assembly -----Original Message----- From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 2:58 am Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/13/10 * ======================== ======================== = Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== ======================== = Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor uch as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht ml&Chapter 10-09-13&Archive=RV8 Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx t&Chapter 10-09-13&Archive=RV8 ======================== ======================= EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== ======================= ---------------------------------------------------------- RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 09/13/10: 0 ---------------------------------------------------------- oday's Message Index: --------------------- -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The RV8-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "FLYBOY.BOB" <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8- Jell Coat Painting
Date: Sep 14, 2010
I have the same question. Bob - SE-Iowa - N83RC From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 11:07 AM Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Jell Coat Painting Dear Builder Buds, I'm down to painting wing tips and not sure what to sand the jell coat with to get the primer to stick. What grit sandpaper will rough it enough to allow the epoxy primer to adhere, but not eat into the hard coating ? Best regards, Bill of Georgia RV-8a, N228WP reserved, painting in prep for final assembly -----Original Message----- From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 2:58 am Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/13/10 * Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html& Chapter 10-09-13&Archive=RV8 Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C hapter 10-09-13&Archive=RV8 ====================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ====================== ---------------------------------------------------------- RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 09/13/10: 0 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Subject: Re: Gell Coat Painting
Bill, I'm no expert in this area. Here is some info I found on the net. It is referring to boats, but the concept would be the same. Stan Use a GOOD primer sealer that is compatible with your Mfg's paint and you should have no problem. I am assuming here that you are painting the entire hull and not just a section, like say a center stripe. The initial sanding will scuff open the gelcoat allowing the primer sealer to adhere, which becomes your foundation for the top coat. Here is the process I have used in the past, with good results 1) Wash boat thoroughly with dish soap and sos pad. Dry boat 2) mask off areas not to be painted - carefully. Cover areas not to be painted with poly. (Essentially wrap the boat and trailer everywhere but the hull) 3) Solvent wipe with Xylene. Constantly rotate through rags (those painters rags at HD are cheap you know). Wipe in a straight line as per the products instructions. 1, 2, and 3 are complete - call it a night and have adult beverage 4) Next day. Sand gel coat with 200 grit paper to break off outer surface. Here you really just want to scuff it. Use a sanding block to prevent gouging. 5) Fill any dents, dings, gouges etc with either epoxy or marine bondo. Let filler dry and relax with adult beverage. 6) After filler dries sand smooth and re-inspect hull carefully for any irregularities. NOW is the time - do not cut corners. Wipe down with tack cloth. 7) Spray on primer (use HPLV). There maybe a learning curve here, so practice. Let primer dry while having adult beverage 8) Sand out primer with 200-220. Wipe down with tack cloth. Spray on second coat of primer. Let primer dry while having adult beverage. 9) Bring in the trigger man for the finish coat. Solvent wash and wipe down with tack cloth - trigger man sprays boat. Let paint dry 24 hours while having adult beverage with trigger man. 10) 24 hours later - LIGHTLY sand with 300 grit paper. Solvent wipe and wipe down with tack cloth. Trigger man shoots second coat. Second coat dries while having adult beverage. 11) 24 hours later VERY LIGHTLY sand with 300 grit paper (you are near the end here). Solvent wipe and wipe down with tack cloth. Trigger man shoots final coat. Celebrate with many adult beverages (if you can still lift your arms) 12) Let dry 24-36 hours and buff to remove any ornage peel effect. Some say you can check the hull and only do this as needed, the boats I did were smaller so I just did the entire thing. If you are not comfortable with a DA buffer - hire this out - Burn in will ruin all your work in no time. Some will say wet sand in step 4 Dear Builder Buds, I'm down to painting wing tips and not sure what to san d the jell coat with to get the primer to stick. What grit sandpaper will rough it enough to allow the epoxy primer to adhere, but not eat into the hard coating ? Best regards, Bill of Georgia RV-8a, N228WP reserved, pain ting in prep for final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gell Coat Painting
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Stan, thanks for the info. I have painted the whole plane piece by piece minus the tips, rudder and elevators. I'm prepping them all to be finishe d this weekend. At least I can hope big. I really want done with this pha se. Then I can move my efforts solely to the hanger for final assembly. My buddy Tony is mounting his 8a's wings on Sat. so I'll have to help. See your flying. I envy you and hope to be flying along before year's end. Co urse, I have to finish this damned painting. Best regards, Bill -----Original Message----- From: Speedy11(at)aol.com Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 9:03 pm Subject: RV8-List: Re: Gell Coat Painting Bill, I'm no expert in this area. Here is some info I found on the net. It is referring to boats, but the concept would be the same. Stan Use a GOOD primer sealer that is compatible with your Mfg's paint and you should have no problem. I am assuming here that you are painting the enti re hull and not just a section, like say a center stripe. The initial sanding will scuff open the gelcoat allowing the primer sealer to adhere, which becomes your foundation for the top coat. Here is the process I have used in the past, with good results 1) Wash boat thoroughly with dish soap and sos pad. Dry boat 2) mask off areas not to be painted - carefully. Cover areas not to be pai nted with poly. (Essentially wrap the boat and trailer everywhere but the hull) 3) Solvent wipe with Xylene. Constantly rotate through rags (those painter s rags at HD are cheap you know). Wipe in a straight line as per the produ cts instructions. 1, 2, and 3 are complete - call it a night and have adult beverage 4) Next day. Sand gel coat with 200 grit paper to break off outer surface. Here you really just want to scuff it. Use a sanding block to prevent gou ging. 5) Fill any dents, dings, gouges etc with either epoxy or marine bondo. Le t filler dry and relax with adult beverage. 6) After filler dries sand smooth and re-inspect hull carefully for any ir regularities. NOW is the time - do not cut corners. Wipe down with tack cl oth. 7) Spray on primer (use HPLV). There maybe a learning curve here, so pract ice. Let primer dry while having adult beverage 8) Sand out primer with 200-220. Wipe down with tack cloth. Spray on secon d coat of primer. Let primer dry while having adult beverage. 9) Bring in the trigger man for the finish coat. Solvent wash and wipe dow n with tack cloth - trigger man sprays boat. Let paint dry 24 hours while having adult beverage with trigger man. 10) 24 hours later - LIGHTLY sand with 300 grit paper. Solvent wipe and wi pe down with tack cloth. Trigger man shoots second coat. Second coat dries while having adult beverage. 11) 24 hours later VERY LIGHTLY sand with 300 grit paper (you are near the end here). Solvent wipe and wipe down with tack cloth. Trigger man shoots final coat. Celebrate with many adult beverages (if you can still lift yo ur arms) 12) Let dry 24-36 hours and buff to remove any ornage peel effect. Some sa y you can check the hull and only do this as needed, the boats I did were smaller so I just did the entire thing. If you are not comfortable with a DA buffer - hire this out - Burn in will ruin all your work in no time. Some will say wet sand in step 4 Dear Builder Buds, I'm down to painting wing tips and not sure what to san d the jell coat with to get the primer to stick. What grit sandpaper will rough it enough to allow the epoxy primer to adhere, but not eat into the hard coating ? Best regards, Bill of Georgia RV-8a, N228WP reserved, pain ting in prep for final assembly ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FS: TruTrak ADI
Date: Sep 16, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Listers - I have a new, never mounted, never flown, TruTrak 3-1/8" ADI with internal GPS that I'm not going to use. $1250 +Shipping new, asking $1100, shipped CONUS. Neal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/15/10
Yup - I'm flying, but I'm not painted. I have that huge task ahead of me. I just flew FL to VT and back and through the Hudson Corridor. It was a fun trip. Stan See your flying. I envy you and hope to be flying along before year's end. Co urse, I have to finish this damned painting. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/15/10
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Congratulations. The first flight is always a wonderful experience. I would suggest that you holdoff on painting until after 20 or 30 hours. When I finished my RV8, I experienced several minor adjustments and tweaking that would have been difficult after painting. Good Luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233m the fast one On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 8:59 AM, wrote: > Yup - I'm flying, but I'm not painted. I have that huge task ahead of > me. > I just flew FL to VT and back and through the Hudson Corridor. It was a > fun trip. > Stan > > See > your flying. I envy you and hope to be flying along before year's end. Co > urse, I have to finish this damned painting. > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 18, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/17/10
Dick! It's me - Stan Sutterfield - Spruce Creek. I've been flying over a year - 113 hours. I just did a trip to VT and back. I took your advice a year ago to postpone painting until I get it tweaked. You were right. I'm still making changes and may get around to painting this fall. Are you going to be at Spruce Creek this winter? I want to see if I can outrun you in the SC 100 Race. Stan Sutterfield The fast 8A : ) Congratulations. The first flight is always a wonderful experience. I would suggest that you holdoff on painting until after 20 or 30 hours. When I finished my RV8, I experienced several minor adjustments and tweaking that would have been difficult after painting. Good Luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233m the fast one On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 8:59 AM, wrote: > Yup - I'm flying, but I'm not painted. I have that huge task ahead of > me. > I just flew FL to VT and back and through the Hudson Corridor. It was a > fun trip. > Stan > > See > your flying. I envy you and hope to be flying along before year's end. Co > urse, I have to finish this damned painting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: WTB Nice RV8 with Glass Panel
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Have a buddy who is looking for a nice RV8. Must have taildragger. Prefer constant speed prop and Dynon, GRT, or AFS glass panel. Good paint or unpainted preferred. He knows what kind of price a nice 8 is bringing and he is way more interested in finding the right plane than the bottom price. He is a good guy to deal with. Trying to build a RV gaggle on the field here and need to get him into a nice ride so he can be one of the "good guys" :-) Please send pictures and general description if you have a nice 8 that needs a nice home! Thanks Bill S 7a flys next month ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/17/10
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Stan, Outrun the fast one!! Dream on. I will be at Spruce Creek again this winter. I usually arrive their on Jan l. Dick Martin RV8 N233m the fast one On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 5:12 PM, wrote: > > Dick! > It's me - Stan Sutterfield - Spruce Creek. I've been flying over a year - > 113 hours. I just did a trip to VT and back. I took your advice a year ago > to postpone painting until I get it tweaked. You were right. I'm still > making changes and may get around to painting this fall. Are you going to > be at Spruce Creek this winter? I want to see if I can outrun you in the SC > 100 Race. > Stan Sutterfield > The fast 8A : ) > > Congratulations. The first flight is always a wonderful experience. I > would suggest that you holdoff on painting until after 20 or 30 hours. > When > I finished my RV8, I experienced several minor adjustments and tweaking > that > would have been difficult after painting. Good Luck. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233m > the fast one > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 8:59 AM, wrote: > > > Yup - I'm flying, but I'm not painted. I have that huge task ahead of > > me. > > I just flew FL to VT and back and through the Hudson Corridor. It was a > > fun trip. > > Stan > > > > See > > your flying. I envy you and hope to be flying along before year's end. Co


July 27, 2010 - September 20, 2010

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