RV9-Archive.digest.vol-af

May 14, 2002 - August 05, 2002



      One other thing about the brake lines and fuel lines.  Vans calls for
      the fuel line to be on bottom and  the brake line to be above  when it
      goes through the brackets by the fuel valve.    I found that putting
      them in reversed of the plans worked a lot better.  This gives a larger
      radius to work the 3/8 inch line through. The 1/4 inch brake line is no
      problem. I found spring benders to work great for working the lines
      through the gear leg bracket. 
      
      Regards 
      Larry Perryman
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 14, 2002
I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full marking at 14 gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ? Anyone know the theory behide this ? Guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CarlJRay(at)cs.com
Date: May 14, 2002
Subject: Demo Ride in RV-9
Just got back from Vans and did get a demo ride. Tom Greene took me. He was very pleasant and was fun to go with. I fly a C-172 now and what a difference. Very smooth to fly. Tom could fly it hands off using the manual elevator trim. The only problem I can see in flying it is doing a stall. My instructor in the 172 drummed into my head to push the yoke forward and add full power. With the 9 if you do that you will tip it over. When you stall it you feel the buffeting but just need to release (not push) the stick and it will immediately fly again. For me this will take some practice and thinking as not to cram the stick forward. Can hardly wait to get one finished. I am working on the wings now. Carl in Michigan.....still drooling and grinning. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Demo Ride in RV-9
Hey Carl, Does the 9 make the metalic shaking / buffeting sound from the tail like the 9A does during the stall? When I flew in the 9A with Scott Risen it was very noticible even with the head phones on. It sounds like metal oil canning. - Andy ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >Just got back from Vans and did get a demo ride. Tom Greene took me. >tip it over. When you stall it you feel the buffeting but just need to ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Hauck" <ross(at)rossreels.com>
Subject: RE: RV steps
Date: May 14, 2002
I didn't weigh the steps, but they are amazingly light and well made (all thin-wall 4130 steel, even the airfoil sections!). I had to grind away the weld between the flange and the mount tube for the bottom 45 degrees fore and aft, to allow bending the flange to conform to the skin. Then TIG reweld. A lot of work, but a perfect fit with no daylight anywhere. Ross/RV-7A _______ From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> Subject: RV9-List: Steps Does anyone have these steps not installed so they could be weighed. I remember them being very heavy. As to the instructions I thought they were very good, the inboard position of the left side had to be moved aft a bit to get the flange to sit flush against the skin. I considered bending the flanges but decided moving the end would be the best way to go. Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 14, 2002
Somewhere in the info that comes with the gages, it tells you that this is due to the dihedral in the wings. There is only 14 gallons left when the float just starts to move downward. The other 4 gallons are above the top of the root section of the tank. This way the gage is accurate in the range of the float travel. Gary I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full marking at 14 gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ? Anyone know the theory behide this ? Guy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Steps
Each step weighs 1.75 pounds. Leland Plumbing in Pleasanton Does anyone have these steps not installed so they could be weighed. I remember them being very heavy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 15, 2002
Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is after I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is it because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the gauges are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders after all.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com> Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They > traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for > increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so > much room on the face of that guage. > > In practice, it works very well. > > - In RV-9A@y..., "votuc.com" wrote: > > Sorry, I don't buy it. Are you saying after buying two senders, two > new > > gauge's, adjusting the float level for proper top to bottom swing, > the best > > I can expect for accuracy with full tanks is something between 28 > and 36 > > gallons ? I flew a J-3 Cub the other day that had a wire with a > cork stuck > > to the bottom of it that had better resolution... > > > > Guy > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "rdoerr01" <rdoerr@k...> > > To: <RV-9A@y...> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 7:09 PM > > Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > > > > > I believe it is because the float that gets installed in the tank > > > won't move from the top most position of the sender until it's at > > > about 14 gals. > > > > > > > > > --- In RV-9A@y..., "Guy Votuc" wrote: > > > > I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full > > > marking at 14 > > > > gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ? > > > > Anyone know the theory behide this ? > > > > > > > > > > > > Guy > > > > > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > > > RV-9A-unsubscribe@e... > > > > > > > > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > > > > > > > FREE COLLEGE MONEY > CLICK HERE to search > 600,000 scholarships! > http://us.click.yahoo.com/DlIU9C/4m7CAA/Ey.GAA/SyTolB/TM > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 15, 2002
Are you certain the capacitive senders (and the expensive gages that go with them) will make a significant difference? No matter what senders you use, they will read full when the fuel is at the top of the sender, right? So, if you want them to read 95 % when you have used 5% of your fuel, they need to be in the outboard section (highest part) of the tank. Then they will read empty before the tank is empty, right? Unless they run the entire length (spanwise) of the tank.......?? Read the archives. Lots of people who have opted for the capacitive system have regretted it for one reason or another. Gary Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is after I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is it because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the gauges are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders after all.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com> To: Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They > traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for > increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so > much room on the face of that guage. > > In practice, it works very well. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 15, 2002
I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way, I leak tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler cap. I had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new O-ring etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should be to get a good seal. Guy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > Are you certain the capacitive senders (and the expensive gages that go > with them) will make a significant difference? No matter what senders > you use, they will read full when the fuel is at the top of the sender, > right? So, if you want them to read 95 % when you have used 5% of your > fuel, they need to be in the outboard section (highest part) of the > tank. Then they will read empty before the tank is empty, right? > Unless they run the entire length (spanwise) of the tank.......?? > > > Read the archives. Lots of people who have opted for the capacitive > system have regretted it for one reason or another. > > Gary > > > Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is > after > I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is > it > because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the > gauges > are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders > after > all.... > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com> > To: > Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > > Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They > > traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for > > increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so > > much room on the face of that guage. > > > > In practice, it works very well. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Fuel tank leaks
on 5/15/02 4:20 PM, Guy Votuc at guy(at)votuc.com wrote: > >By the way, I leak tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler cap. Is everybody putting Proseal over the shop heads of the rivets that hold the baffle to the skin? Thanks, Mark Schrimmer Tanks riveted, almost ready for testing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: May 15, 2002
I did, but it probably wasn't necessary. The baffle plate gets a lot of goop on it, so the rearward facing flanges are pretty well sealed. The blind rivets on the mounting brackets definitely want a blob of sealer over them, even though they are closed ended rivets. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 15, 2002
Sounds good, Guy. I guess that means you have already installed the capacitive type senders, if you have one tank done. The tanks are a nice part to get behind you. I'm sure you thought of this, but a little film of oil on the O-rings (big one and the one around the shaft) of the caps will help get a good seal for testing. One nice thing about a custom-built experimental plane......if you don't like something, you can try to find a "better way." Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Guy Votuc To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 5:20 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way, I leak tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler cap. I had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new O-ring etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should be to get a good seal. Guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: baffle kit
Date: May 15, 2002
Have any of you used the baffle kit that Van's sells for your 0-320? How is the fit? I have read archives and older web sites that indicated they fit very poorly and were difficult to install. I'd like to know if they've improved this before I buy one. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 15, 2002
Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely with it. If I can just figure out what to sell next for a little extra cash ( 10k ) :>) Anybody need a nice used Farm Tractor ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > Sounds good, Guy. I guess that means you have already installed the > capacitive type senders, if you have one tank done. The tanks are a > nice part to get behind you. > > I'm sure you thought of this, but a little film of oil on the O-rings > (big one and the one around the shaft) of the caps will help get a good > seal for testing. > > One nice thing about a custom-built experimental plane......if you don't > like something, you can try to find a "better way." > > Gary > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Guy Votuc > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 5:20 PM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my > flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way, > I leak > tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler > cap. I > had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new > O-ring > etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should > be to > get a good seal. > > Guy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fly84878(at)aol.com
Date: May 16, 2002
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, guy(at)votuc.com writes: > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely with > it. Guy, You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain system. I was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by Van's. Was I misled? Roger Aspegren 80% done with wings Denton, Ne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DellAngelo, Scott" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com>
Subject: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit
Date: May 16, 2002
Hi, I have been on the list for a while now just reading and absorbing. I've been agonizing over whether to wait for the RV10 and have the two more seats (along with increased cost to build and increased cost to fly) or build a RV9A knowing that most of the time two of the 10 seats would be empty anyways. I still waver back and forth but lately have been really wanting to get started (and i'm kind of cheap). I figure when we have kid(s) in a few years (i'm 26 now) I could always build the 4 seater down the road and sell the 2 seater if that is really what I want then. Plus I figure one kid can be rigged up in the baggage area in a car seat for a few years anyways? I've got spousal approval so I am thinking that maybe around Oshkosh time I will take the plunge. We live in Naperville, IL so any RVers that what to give me a ride :), or want someone to help pound some rivets sometime, let me know. I have no metal airplane knowledge, but have torn apart everything there is to tear apart on cars just about, and am working on recovering/restoring my uncle's Piper Tri-Pacer (so I know a little about fabric ships). Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets, wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there any must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and get from the start? Thanks, Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 16, 2002
No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display can be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive circuit anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI gauge it comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main advantage to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect. Guy, ----- Original Message ----- From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, guy(at)votuc.com > writes: > > > > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I > > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely with > > it. > > Guy, > You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain system. I > was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by Van's. > Was I misled? > Roger Aspegren > 80% done with wings > Denton, Ne > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit
Date: May 16, 2002
Scott: Your statement - > Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets, > wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as > Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need > for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there any > must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and > get from the start? The Avery starter kit is well designed and well made. It will allow you to build the tail by which time you will be up the learning curve far enough to then add what you need when you need it. I have almost all Avery tools. They are very good. Service is excellent. You will use everything (metal working that is) in the basic RV kit. Several other suppliers are pretty good as well. Cleveland, Brown, etc. You will get at least a 10% discount buy buying in volume from one supplier. My rule is if it is something that I am going to need often I buy it from Avery. If it is an occasional thing you can buy something suitable a lot cheaper elsewhere. The exception is if is has quality implications I buy from Avery. If I am doing something very visible in the final product I will make certain that I have the edge by using the best tools. You will not be able to predict all your tool needs at project startup. You can spend a lot of money on expensive tools that provide ease of use but do nothing to add quality to the final product. Just get started, build up your knowledge base then determine your needs as you go along. For your complete project you will probably invest a little more then double the basic Avery Basic RV kit - - if you are very frugal ! ! ! This does not include drill presses, painting stuff and any other non-metal airplane tools Happy building. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 15% Complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit
Date: May 16, 2002
I was at the same process a year ago and thought I really wanted a four seater. I "tried" to buy the new Zenith 640 in kit form but at the time they wanted to sell me the QB version instead saying they had to cause of matched wings to fuse etc. I really liked the interior and gull wing doors but I later found out it flew like a brick ( slow and heavy ) and was noisy inside. It would have been a good IFR platform though. In any case it was to much money up front. They since have made "kit' sections available to promote selling it. Now that I have my license , my wife and kids aren't interested anyway ( too scared of flying ). As for tools, I had a lot of old bucking bars and drills but I purchased pretty much everything in the kit from Avery, plus some. They are a great company and have quality tools. I ended up getting more dimpling dies and counter sink tools as I needed them. The one thing I would NOT do without is a air operated dimpling tool, it's expensive but man does it save time. Get the 1.5 in and 4 in yoke with it and be happy. The rest you can get as you need ( you'll know when ). Guy ----- Original Message ----- From: "DellAngelo, Scott" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com> Subject: RV9-List: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit > > Hi, > > I have been on the list for a while now just reading and absorbing. I've > been agonizing over whether to wait for the RV10 and have the two more seats > (along with increased cost to build and increased cost to fly) or build a > RV9A knowing that most of the time two of the 10 seats would be empty > anyways. I still waver back and forth but lately have been really wanting > to get started (and i'm kind of cheap). I figure when we have kid(s) in a > few years (i'm 26 now) I could always build the 4 seater down the road and > sell the 2 seater if that is really what I want then. Plus I figure one kid > can be rigged up in the baggage area in a car seat for a few years anyways? > I've got spousal approval so I am thinking that maybe around Oshkosh time I > will take the plunge. We live in Naperville, IL so any RVers that what to > give me a ride :), or want someone to help pound some rivets sometime, let > me know. I have no metal airplane knowledge, but have torn apart everything > there is to tear apart on cars just about, and am working on > recovering/restoring my uncle's Piper Tri-Pacer (so I know a little about > fabric ships). > > Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets, > wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as > Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need > for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there any > must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and > get from the start? > > Thanks, > Scott > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 16, 2002
Guy, I, too, debated for a long time with which fuel sender and gauge to use. I installed Van's capacitance sender ($50.00) in my tanks, but in the end, I decided that the cost of the gauge ($350) was a bit much. I mean, I am going to put fuel in the thing everytime, so the gauges are just a backup for me to remember what I put in. Now, for less than $100, I got two fuel gauges and two float senders from Vans. Now, what difference does it make if the gauges only start moving once the tank is at 14 gallons? I mean, at 28 gallons left in the tank is still more than 600 miles range left in them, so why worry? The float senders are so inexpensive that using anything else is nothing more that giving money away, in my opinion. You could do like I did and installed the capacitance senders in the tanks for a later time. Use the floats and analog gauges for a while. However, I think Van's gauges are very attactive and for $31.00, they even internally lit. What's not to like? Good luck in your selection Fabian 90292 Working on fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are > several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display can > be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the > digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive circuit > anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI gauge it > comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main advantage > to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect. > > > Guy, > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > > > > In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > guy(at)votuc.com > > writes: > > > > > > > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I > > > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely > with > > > it. > > > > Guy, > > You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain system. > I > > was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by > Van's. > > Was I misled? > > Roger Aspegren > > 80% done with wings > > Denton, Ne > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 16, 2002
I agree Fabian and thats what I've done as well. I guess I get too technical by nature and always question stuff. It seems there are a lot of compromises in areas I feel could be satisfied better from a technical point of view. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > Guy, > > I, too, debated for a long time with which fuel sender and gauge to use. I > installed Van's capacitance sender ($50.00) in my tanks, but in the end, I > decided that the cost of the gauge ($350) was a bit much. I mean, I am > going to put fuel in the thing everytime, so the gauges are just a backup > for me to remember what I put in. Now, for less than $100, I got two fuel > gauges and two float senders from Vans. Now, what difference does it make > if the gauges only start moving once the tank is at 14 gallons? I mean, at > 28 gallons left in the tank is still more than 600 miles range left in them, > so why worry? > > The float senders are so inexpensive that using anything else is nothing > more that giving money away, in my opinion. You could do like I did and > installed the capacitance senders in the tanks for a later time. Use the > floats and analog gauges for a while. However, I think Van's gauges are > very attactive and for $31.00, they even internally lit. What's not to > like? > > Good luck in your selection > > Fabian > 90292 > Working on fuselage > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > > > > No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are > > several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display > can > > be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the > > digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive circuit > > anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI gauge > it > > comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main > advantage > > to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect. > > > > > > Guy, > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com> > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge > > > > > > > > > > In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > > guy(at)votuc.com > > > writes: > > > > > > > > > > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. > I > > > > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely > > with > > > > it. > > > > > > Guy, > > > You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain > system. > > I > > > was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by > > Van's. > > > Was I misled? > > > Roger Aspegren > > > 80% done with wings > > > Denton, Ne > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: baffle kit
Date: May 16, 2002
Gary wrote: "I have read archives and older web sites that indicated they fit very poorly and were difficult to install." <<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>> Yes, the baffle kit is a pain to install and a few of the parts don't fit as well as they could. I found it particularly difficult to bend the inlet floors to the proper angles without starting cracks. However, making the baffles from scratch would be VERY MUCH more difficult if you didn't start with Van's kit. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
Date: May 16, 2002
Whatever indicators you use with the factory capacitance plates, you will need the EI transducers to provide a voltage output. Vans sells them for $45 each. To work well, whatever indicator you use should be callibrateable (is that a word?). The values are not linear either, mostly due to the shape of the tank, so you need to callibrate a few mid-points if you want reasonable accuracy, as good as any qty anway. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Star Washers in QBag 1923?
There are two star washers in QBag 1923 which contains Flap Hardware (rod end bearings), but I don't see a callout for them on the drawings. Can anybody tell me where they go? Leland in Pleasanton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: float senders
Date: May 17, 2002
Are the float senders a part of the finish kit or are they an extra? Steve #90360 N Yorks., UK Left step ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: float senders
Date: May 17, 2002
05/17/2002 11:19:13 PM, Serialize complete at 05/17/2002 11:19:13 PM The fuel floats and gages are extra. The entire set from Vans is $100.00 Regards Larry Perryman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: float senders
on 5/17/02 2:18 PM, PERRYMAN Larry at larry.perryman(at)atofina.com wrote: > > > The fuel floats and gages are extra. The entire set from Vans is > $100.00 > You can also order the floats and senders without the gauges. Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Star Washers in QBag 1923?
Date: May 17, 2002
The AN936A416 Internal lock Washers are called out on DWG 14 "Right Side View". They go on the Rod End Bearing that moves the Flap. Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Star Washers in QBag 1923? > > There are two star washers in QBag 1923 which contains Flap Hardware > (rod end bearings), but I don't see a callout for them on the drawings. > Can anybody tell me where they go? > Leland in Pleasanton > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2002
From: Tim Coldenhoff <borg(at)primenet.com>
Subject: Wing kit long angle material usage
Howdy all - Can't find this in the archives, and Van's is closed today, so I need to call upon the list... I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing. The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths of angle from which to make these, so of course I am nervous about cutting on them. I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see, for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are used. Can someone (preferably that knows about materials used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 or am I missing something? On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920 made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know what this is? Thanks, - Tim. RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details' ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Wing kit long angle material usage
Date: May 18, 2002
Tim, Yes, except for the 15' pieces for the longerons, the rest is to be used up as you go. I believe the other angles sent are two(2) AA125X10' and two (2) AA063 X12' pieces. Good luck! Fabian 90292 Working on fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Coldenhoff" <borg(at)primenet.com> Subject: RV9-List: Wing kit long angle material usage > > Howdy all - > > Can't find this in the archives, and Van's > is closed today, so I need to call upon the list... > > I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out > of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to > be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing. > > The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths > of angle from which to make these, so of course I > am nervous about cutting on them. > > I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped > with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be > cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of > this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see, > for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are > used. > > Can someone (preferably that knows about materials > used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is > OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 > or am I missing something? > > On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920 > made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't > seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master > cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know > what this is? > > Thanks, > - Tim. > RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details' > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Wing kit long angle material usage
Date: May 18, 2002
Tim, I hope you didn't cut your W-925C's yet! These are special parts, not just angle stock. They have a small jog in them so they step up onto the flange. Look around for these, including in the bags. The other parts of the flap brackets are from angle stock. Don't cut your longerons as you mentioned. The others are sort of general purpose and I have found that there's a few feet leftover when all is said and done. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Wing kit long angle material usage
Date: May 18, 2002
The W-920 does not exist anymore. It used to be an angle that you manufactured the wing tiedown anchor from, before they changed to the extruded tiedown anchor material. You need not make them. Look on the first page of section 7 of your manual. Hopefully they have updated the section there that tells you to fabricate the tiedowns. Mine is dated 2/25/01, and had changed to the AEX extruded tiedowns, but the part # callouts were all mixed up. If you have a later manual revision, you might not have any confusion there. If they have not fixed it, paragraphs 5, 6, 7, and 8 under "Preparing the Main Spar" will be very confusing, with the wrong part numbers and references to some of the parts that no longer exist, like the W-725 angles and the W-726 Tiedown Spacers. You should be okay if you just go by the drawings, and use the extruded tiedown material. Gary .............On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920 made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know what this is? Thanks, - Tim. RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: float senders
Steve, I buggered up one of my senders from Vans and bought one locally, from an auto parts store. The local purchase cost $3 more than Vans, but a local purchase may still be cheaper for you. They are made by Stewart Warner and are called "Thick Film Fuel Level Sender". The part number on the one I bought was 385B-F, Sender Fuel Citerne. There is a right and a left. Leland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: W921 Flap Gap Fairing to Rear Wing Spar
I am building a quick build and am working on the wings. There are several rivets on the W921 flap gap fairing which attach to the rear wing spar. The plans call out all regular rivets but there are about 5 I can't get to. How the heck are these bucked? Do I need to hire a midget contortionist? Or can I use blind rivets for these few? Has anyone else run into this and how did you reach them? Thanx Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Stall warning or Angle of attack
I'm working on the wings to my quick build and was wondering if anyone has installed either a stall warning or angle of attack sensor. First, where did you install them? Second, are you happy with the results? (Assuming it flying by now) Thanx Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Wing kit long angle material usage
Date: May 18, 2002
Very good question Tim I ran into this situation a couple weeks ago. I thought I had lost some aluminum angle and ordered some from Van's. I look forward to hearing the correct answer to this dilemma. Paul RV-9a Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Coldenhoff Subject: RV9-List: Wing kit long angle material usage Howdy all - Can't find this in the archives, and Van's is closed today, so I need to call upon the list... I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing. The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths of angle from which to make these, so of course I am nervous about cutting on them. I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see, for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are used. Can someone (preferably that knows about materials used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 or am I missing something? On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920 made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know what this is? Thanks, - Tim. RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details' = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Wing kit long angle material usage
Date: May 18, 2002
Tim The two AA6-063x3/4x3/4x12' angles were missing from my wing kit. Van's shipped four 6' pieces to me and pointed out that the material was for misc parts in both the wings and fuselage. The 12' lengths were merely for convenience in shipping in the long spar box. Hope this clarifies the situation. Dean Van Winkle 90095 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack
I am not flying, but a number of us worked with Jim (the AOA) guy , to help determine a proper place. I can measure tomorrow, but you might want to talk to Jim to see if anyone is flying a NINER with one. You can not use the RV6/6a measurements as the wings are different. Barry POte RV9a fuselage. Jim Brandvold wrote: > > > I'm working on the wings to my quick build and was wondering > if anyone has installed either a stall warning or angle of attack > sensor. First, where did you install them? Second, are you > happy with the results? (Assuming it flying by now) > > Thanx > Jim Brandvold > N209RV (Reserved) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack
Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address? Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between. Thank you Jim Brandvold ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: W921 Flap Gap Fairing to Rear Wing Spar
Jim, I used CS4-4 blind rivets when attaching the flap gap fairings (W921) for those hard to reach locations. Leland QuickBuilder in Pleasanton "I am building a quick build and am working on the wings. There are several rivets on the W921 flap gap fairing which attach to the rear wing spar. The plans call out all regular rivets but there are about 5 I can't get to. How the heck are these bucked? " ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack
Jim Brandvold wrote: > > > Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address? > Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between. > > Thank you > Jim Brandvold > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack
Hope the pages I sent, help. The rod (black thing) coming out the bottom skin (I surrounded it with a plastic grommet) is the plunger for purging any trapped water. The AOA guy said that they don't always do that now. a small hole with some kind of hand held device, suffices. Barry Pote RV9a Jim Brandvold wrote: > > > Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address? > Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between. > > Thank you > Jim Brandvold > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com>
Subject: Fuel tank leaks
Date: May 19, 2002
I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in the Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate. Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out? I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the connector getting it out. Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Ken Anderson Working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: F712 bulkhead
Date: May 19, 2002
On my QB the F-712 bulkhead was clecoed in place. I have presumed there is some reason later in the building why it was not attached prior to shipment. In fact it seems that there was no reason for this. Could someone confirm I can just rivet it up. That seems to be the implication of the penultimate paragraph of "Rear Fuselage Asyy" p 8-5 in my manuel. Thanks, Steve. QB90360 Fuse N Yorks., UK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: May 19, 2002
I just removed my tank end plates which were ProSealed on about six months ago. They put up a struggle, but once you get one edge free the rest came off OK. The cork gasket is toast of course. I bowed one edge of the plates, but they straighted out OK. As long as you wipe the existing sealer on your BNC connector down with a solvent first (PrepSol or Lacquer reducer would probably do the trick) I don't think you'll have any trouble getting the new sealer to stick. Is there anything this nasty stuff doesn't stick to? I can't recommend any other sealer when you close it up again. Perhaps someone else has some experience with other sealants on their tank lids? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: May 19, 2002
I'd scuff sand the proseal a bit, and wipe down with MEK before applying more Proseal. I didn't use the cork gaskets on my access covers, just the Proseal. Gary I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in the Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate. Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out? I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the connector getting it out. Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Ken Anderson Working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leaks
Date: May 19, 2002
Ken, I just used the cork gasket with no sealant. It seemed very soft and rubbery as it was and passed the pressure leak test. I used Bakerseal on the screw threads and under the heads ( I countersunk the access plate ) . From: "ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com> Subject: RV9-List: Fuel tank leaks > > I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in the > Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC > connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate. > Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both > sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover > plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out? > > I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal > seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the connector > getting it out. > > Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex? > > Any other suggestions? > > Thanks, > Ken Anderson > Working on wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich Leiby" <rleiby(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: New engine-corrosion prevention
Date: May 19, 2002
I have just mounted my new 0320 lycoming to my RV9. I drained all of the preservative from the engine and would like to know what to do for engine preservation while I am finishing the plane. Rich Leiby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Firewall Forward Package
Date: May 19, 2002
I received the firewall forward kit from Vans last Monday. It includes several items on the aft side of the firewall that could/should have been included when the firewall was originally fabricated. (A) The doubler (VA-161) for the Gas-4 gascolator. This powder coated steel part only costs about $11 and should have been supplied with the fuse kit. DWG OP-28. (B) The doubler (F-7127D) for the master and starter relay mounting bolts. Dwg OP-31A. (C) 5 nutplates, 3 for the battery box and 2 for the master and starter relay mounting bolts. Dwg OP-31A. To mount some of these parts, you have to drill out existing rivets in the firewall so it kind of ticks you off. One other really nice touch is the items required to install the relays are all included EXCEPT the one that seems to be the hardest to find locally - 2 small pieces of .063 copper bus bar 1/2" x 2-7/8". OK, I'm done complaining but you can do a much nicer job if your firewall is not yet riveted in. Albert Gardner RV9A-0132 Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com
Date: May 20, 2002
Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02
In a message dated 5/20/02 1:51:48 AM Central Daylight Time, rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex? > > Any other suggestions? > > Thanks, > Ken Anderson > Working on wings > Ken: I have read other e-mails from RV-6 guys who are using RTV instead of pro-seal on the cork gaskets since (they say) the clean up is a bit easier. I still haven't decided which way I am going to go. Doug Lomheim 90116 (Just finished the last fuel tank!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02
Date: May 20, 2002
Be carefull with RTV most of them aren't fuleproof. We tried to use it on a sending unit on a C-172 it didn't work. We used non hardening Permatex an had no problems. Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com
Date: May 20, 2002
Subject: Aligning ribs with bottom skin
I was just drilling the bottom skins and found that using a large needle (.090 X 2.5) to align the holes in the skins and ribs was a lot easier than using the broom handle with a bolt in the end. Another builder used a dart. Regards, John. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02
Date: May 20, 2002
Do not use the acetic acid cure type of RTV silicone. This product will liberate acetic acid during cure. Acetic acid can be very corrosive to metal parts. This is not the case with neutral cure RTV silicone. In either case, I'm not sure RTV would be the best sealant for a fuel tank. Always use a product that is intended for gasoline, or specifically avgas. I saw one photo of an RV6 tank sender that was completely seized by using RTV on the gasket. ----- Original Message ----- From: <DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com> Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02 > > In a message dated 5/20/02 1:51:48 AM Central Daylight Time, > rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex? > > > > Any other suggestions? > > > > Thanks, > > Ken Anderson > > Working on wings > > > > Ken: > I have read other e-mails from RV-6 guys who are using RTV instead of > pro-seal on the cork gaskets since (they say) the clean up is a bit easier. > I still haven't decided which way I am going to go. > > Doug Lomheim > 90116 (Just finished the last fuel tank!) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02
Date: May 20, 2002
Doug, Ken, and others I attempted to use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on my first cover plate/gasket. The can read " turns to paste in seconds ". Unfortunately, I received a bad can, and 9 days later it still had not set up properly. The gasket peeled right off the rib. On advise of Van's, I installed a new gasket with no sealant except Proseal on the screw threads and under the heads. The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming his tank. Dean Van Winkle RV-9A fuselage 13B Rotary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Tank testing
> The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours > using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections > between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming > his tank. > > Dean Van Winkle > RV-9A fuselage > 13B Rotary > What do you use to inflate the tank to 1 psi? Mark Schrimmer Tanks riveted but not tested ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Tank Testing
Date: May 20, 2002
Mark I set my tank on 2 saw horses, with tank leading edge up. Using some clear tubing that would just fit over the vent line fitting. I then formed a u-shape with the tubing about 3 feet high and tacked it on, what else, the wing stand 4x4. One end was open, the other routed to the vent fitting. Before connecting the tube to the vent, I filled the u with water up to about 18 inches on both sides. After securely clamping the tube to the vent fitting, I used my air hose blow gun to gently inject air into the tank thru the drain valve until there was approx. 27 inches differential in the levels between the two sides of the u-tube. This gives approx 1 psi in the tank. I was surprised how rapidly the water levels would move toward equalization with very small leaks. I sprayed soapy water on the tank to find the air leaks. One caution, changes of temperature of the tank skin will change the water level differential even without leaks. This would be true even if you were using a pressure gage directly on the tank. I made sure that the tank temperature was close to the same at the start and end of the 48 hours. Sorry to write a book in answer to your simple question. Dean Van Winkle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Stewart" <davestewart(at)globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Tank testing
Date: May 20, 2002
Tape/plug the openings closed & put an inflated balloon over the drain Dave 90252 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Tank testing > > > The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours > > using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections > > between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming > > his tank. > > > > Dean Van Winkle > > RV-9A fuselage > > 13B Rotary > > > > > What do you use to inflate the tank to 1 psi? > > > Mark Schrimmer > Tanks riveted but not tested > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Elevator Attachment to Horizontal Stabilizer
I called Vans today to obtain information on how to attach the HS-911 INBD Hinge bracket assembly (DWG 3) to the WD-605 Elevator Horn. Gus said to install and clamp one of the elevators stationary and drill through the VA-146 Hinge Bearing and into the Elevator Horn. Then install the other elevator and drill through the drilled horn, through the Bearing and into the second elevator. I did not have a 1/4" angle drill and simply had to sequentially drill through the Bearing and into each elevator individually. It worked out fine as there is no binding or tendency to wobble after a bolt is connected through the elevators and Bearing. Gus also said not to use the published procedure for drilling the (lower) holes in the Horns for the pushrod attachment. Rather than aligning by clamping the elevator counterweight arms to the stabilizer, he wants the builder to find the elevator neutral positions with a straight edge(s) running in the direction of the airfoil, or to lay an 8' piece of angle across the elevators to assure that they are both in the same position before drilling the lower holes through the Horns. I wound up laying the stabilizer with elevators attached on a flat workbench and playing with the elevator clamping until the the elevator edges both laid flat along the edge of the workbench. In my case, there was not much difference between this method and the "counterbalance clamping" method described in the assembly instructions. However, Gus said that misaligned elevators can occur with the "counterbalance clamping" method and cause the plane to have a roll tendency in flight. (I don't know if I understand this as it seems that a one-sided trim tab would also tend to roll the plane.) Sorry if this write-up is confusing, but you may have to study at Drawings 3, 5 and 27 to understand what I am talking about. Leland in Pleasanton Attaching empennage to fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Step skin hole?
For those of you that have already mounted your steps... Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic diameter of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside the skin? Right now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits just off the skin. -- Andy Karmy andy(at)karmy.com -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Step skin hole?
Date: May 21, 2002
Andy - I went minutely - perhaps 1/32 - oversize and then just adjusted where necessary. The problem sort of dissappeared and it all settled down. Be prepared to bend and whack the steel to make it all sit flush. Steve #90360 N Yorks, UK -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy Subject: RV9-List: Step skin hole? For those of you that have already mounted your steps... Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic diameter of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside the skin? Right now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits just off the skin. -- Andy Karmy andy(at)karmy.com -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
Date: May 21, 2002
Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day - F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying to work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets! It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do. Regards, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Hampel [mailto:hampel(at)knology.net] Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start? Steve, Thanks for all of the good info. You are right, I have had a hard time getting a straight answer from anyone at Vans as to where to start. This helps a lot. Sorry for the late reply but my email has been down...been rebuilding my computer -again! Best to you, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start? Wayne - I am not sure you got ananswer. As a QB builder who asks lots of questions I thought I owed you somthing. There is not an exact place, and VANS certainly dont tell you. My approach was to start at the beginning with coffee and a chair and just start putting ticks in the book if someone had already done things. That has worked reasonably well. There are a few things you have to undo since the instruction in the Philippines seems to be - see a hole? Put a rivet in it. But then there are exceptions. I started around the rear baggage floors and since the manual said rivet them in I did, but that was a mistake. DONT. Then the rudder pedals I think. But just work through the text, though it is not nearly to the standard of the emp. kit. What you get is an 'empty' fuse with the skin over the baggage cmptmnt and over your knees missing.There are weeks of work on the fusse alone. At a guess I have put 150hrs into it since January and there is masses to do yet. The wings, well no experience butI will take the same approach. If nothing else, doingit this way you increase your understanding of what has / hasnt been done. Basically they are much further along. Lower outer skins off and the control system absent. Steve #90360 UK ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Hampel To: RV-9a group Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 3:24 PM Subject: [RV-9A] where does QB start? Well, I am trying to plan a schedule for when my 9a QB arrives and I realized I don't know exactly at what stage the QB is completed through. Could anyone that has received the QB tell me if there is a point in the manual that I would start once it gets here? Does Van's ship additional drawings/manual supplements with the QB? What exactly is in the finish kit (they are 10-12 weeks out now and I didn't know exactly when I was going to need each component in the finish kit). My FWF subaru engine will be sitting here before the QB arrives and I was trying to determine how long from QB arrival to engine hanging time. Thanks for any input. Wayne Hampel Huntsville, AL [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ADVERTISEMENT Height: 4 5 6 7 ft 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 in Weight: Sex: F M To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Step skin hole?
I did it differently. as it is hard to use a hole cutter, after a hole has been cut, and as it is not critical to make the hole tight, I think I opened it to the plans measurement, what ever that was, but 1st I checked to see if it cleared the weld. I think it did. But if it has not, I would have gone bigger on the hole saw. I don't believe that the hole is structural (a tight fit). Barry Pote RV9a fuselage. Steve Sampson wrote: > > > Andy - I went minutely - perhaps 1/32 - oversize and then just adjusted > where necessary. The problem sort of dissappeared and it all settled down. > Be prepared to bend and whack the steel to make it all sit flush. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: tiedown anchor
Date: May 21, 2002
Steve.....is your tail tiedown anchor installed yet? I put mine in before I put the 712 bulkhead in. Then when I put the vertical stab on, I first drilled backdward through the holes that attach the vertical stab to the 712, with a 12 inch #30 bit, and clear through the 711 bulkhead. Did this for the four holes. Then when I mounted the vert. stab, I drilled back through the whole thing from the other direction, through the stab spar, still #30. Then I enlarged the holes from the outside to #12 for the bolts holding the stab spar. If you have a small enough angle drill you could aviod drilling through the 711, but this worked really easy for me. Bottom line is, I would rivet the tiedown anchor to the F-712 before riveting the 712 in place. Gary Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day - F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying to work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets! It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do. Regards, Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Step skin hole?
Date: May 21, 2002
Yep, make it fit. I lined up and cut the holes in the baggage floor bulkeads first, then filed the skin hole till it cleared the step weld. After all the discussion about flush vs roundy head rivets for the step plates, if I did it again, I'd use flush rivets, and proseal on the plates. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Karmy To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:19 AM Subject: RV9-List: Step skin hole? For those of you that have already mounted your steps... Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic diameter of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside the skin? Right now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits just off the skin. -- Andy Karmy andy(at)karmy.com -- = = messages. = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
Date: May 21, 2002
Steve, Is the F-712E Tie-Down Bar riveted onto the F-712A&A Bulkheads? If not, they may have left the bulkhead out to make that part of the installation easier. Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> Subject: RV9-List: RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start? > > Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day - > F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying to > work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not > rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets! > > It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do. > > Regards, Steve. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Wayne Hampel [mailto:hampel(at)knology.net] > To: Steve Sampson > Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start? > > > Steve, > Thanks for all of the good info. You are right, I have had a hard time > getting a straight answer from anyone at Vans as to where to start. This > helps a lot. > Sorry for the late reply but my email has been down...been rebuilding my > computer -again! > Best to you, > Wayne > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> > To: > Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start? > > > Wayne - I am not sure you got ananswer. As a QB builder who asks lots of > questions I thought I owed you somthing. > There is not an exact place, and VANS certainly dont tell you. My approach > was to start at the beginning with coffee and a chair and just start putting > ticks in the book if someone had already done things. That has worked > reasonably well. There are a few things you have to undo since the > instruction in the Philippines seems to be - see a hole? Put a rivet in it. > But then there are exceptions. > > I started around the rear baggage floors and since the manual said rivet > them in I did, but that was a mistake. DONT. Then the rudder pedals I think. > But just work through the text, though it is not nearly to the standard of > the emp. kit. What you get is an 'empty' fuse with the skin over the baggage > cmptmnt and over your knees missing.There are weeks of work on the fusse > alone. At a guess I have put 150hrs into it since January and there is > masses to do yet. > > The wings, well no experience butI will take the same approach. If nothing > else, doingit this way you increase your understanding of what has / hasnt > been done. Basically they are much further along. Lower outer skins off and > the control system absent. > > Steve > #90360 > UK > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Wayne Hampel > To: RV-9a group > Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 3:24 PM > Subject: [RV-9A] where does QB start? > > > Well, I am trying to plan a schedule for when my 9a QB arrives and I > realized I don't know exactly at what stage the QB is completed through. > Could anyone that has received the QB tell me if there is a point in the > manual that I would start once it gets here? Does Van's ship additional > drawings/manual supplements with the QB? What exactly is in the finish kit > (they are 10-12 weeks out now and I didn't know exactly when I was going to > need each component in the finish kit). My FWF subaru engine will be > sitting here before the QB arrives and I was trying to determine how long > from QB arrival to engine hanging time. > Thanks for any input. > Wayne Hampel > Huntsville, AL > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ADVERTISEMENT > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ADVERTISEMENT > > > Height: 4 5 6 7 ft 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 in > Weight: > Sex: F M > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Step skin hole?
Date: May 21, 2002
Ditto on the bending and whacking to make it sit well. The tight fit actually makes for a good seal once it's fastened down. I put an O-ring around it only to discover that it sliced the O-ring when I tightened it (mine is held on with screws), so I scrapped the O-ring. No need for it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Reposting
Here is a partial copy of a posting from the main RV list. I am reposting it because not everyone on this list subscribes: The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the results: We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and once established in the spin takes about three turns to become developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft. The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall occurs. Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: tiedown anchor
Date: May 23, 2002
Gary - thanks for that. No the tie down anchor is not yet attached. Even though the bulkead is not riveted in place though it is not removable. The conical nature of the fuse combined with the longerons lock it from moving either way. From your mail I take it the only issues are the tie down anchor and the vertical stab. That is how I see the plans. I am just puzzled why VANS gave me clecos not rivets! Thanks, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Subject: RV9-List: tiedown anchor Steve.....is your tail tiedown anchor installed yet? I put mine in before I put the 712 bulkhead in. Then when I put the vertical stab on, I first drilled backdward through the holes that attach the vertical stab to the 712, with a 12 inch #30 bit, and clear through the 711 bulkhead. Did this for the four holes. Then when I mounted the vert. stab, I drilled back through the whole thing from the other direction, through the stab spar, still #30. Then I enlarged the holes from the outside to #12 for the bolts holding the stab spar. If you have a small enough angle drill you could aviod drilling through the 711, but this worked really easy for me. Bottom line is, I would rivet the tiedown anchor to the F-712 before riveting the 712 in place. Gary Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day - F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying to work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets! It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do. Regards, Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: RV9A spins
For those that don't watch the main RV list, this info sounded interesting... Any of you planning on spin testing your RV9's once they are flying? - Andy From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin Testing?? --> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert I have not yet seen the RVator article. It sounds as if it is only directed at the 7. However, some months ago I did have an opportunity to e-mail Van's regarding spin characteristics for the 9a, (which my son and I will build). If it is helpful, this was the reply: The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the results: We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and once established in the spin takes about three turns to become developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft. The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall occurs. Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 5/20/02 8:57:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes: > > << Can someone summarize the article on spin testing the RV-7 to us > non-subscribers to the RVator. > > I used to subscribe, but it would only arrive 75% of the time and had > limited info as I remember. This > however sounds very interesting. > > Thinking about subscribing again, > Steve > RV-7A >> > > Essentially, the RVator said they had "mocked up" an RV-6a, using their RV-6a > with extended wingtips and both flavors of vertical stab and rudder (the old > "short" type, and the current "tall" type, like has been in the kits (-6 and > -7) for a couple of years. This was prior to building the first -7. > > Their mock-up testing showed acceptable results. Howerver, when they did > spin testing with a "real" RV-7, with the longer fuse, span, etc. it's > characteristics were not as good as in a stock RV-6a. They had expected > better characteristics than on the -6a, because of the longer tail moment. > > In the article, they made a relative comparison on the RV-6a and RV-7, > concluding that the neither the -6a or -7 meet aerobatic category spin > certification requirments, but both meet standard category spin requirements, > with the -6A having better characteristics than the -7. > > They are preparing to try a larger rudder "to enhance spin recovery > authority." > > Kyle Boatright > 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider > Kennesaw, GA > http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: RV9A spins
For those that don't watch the main RV list, this info sounded interesting... Any of you planning on spin testing your RV9's once they are flying? - Andy From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin Testing?? --> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert I have not yet seen the RVator article. It sounds as if it is only directed at the 7. However, some months ago I did have an opportunity to e-mail Van's regarding spin characteristics for the 9a, (which my son and I will build). If it is helpful, this was the reply: The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the results: We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and once established in the spin takes about three turns to become developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft. The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall occurs. Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 5/20/02 8:57:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes: > > << Can someone summarize the article on spin testing the RV-7 to us > non-subscribers to the RVator. > > I used to subscribe, but it would only arrive 75% of the time and had > limited info as I remember. This > however sounds very interesting. > > Thinking about subscribing again, > Steve > RV-7A >> > > Essentially, the RVator said they had "mocked up" an RV-6a, using their RV-6a > with extended wingtips and both flavors of vertical stab and rudder (the old > "short" type, and the current "tall" type, like has been in the kits (-6 and > -7) for a couple of years. This was prior to building the first -7. > > Their mock-up testing showed acceptable results. Howerver, when they did > spin testing with a "real" RV-7, with the longer fuse, span, etc. it's > characteristics were not as good as in a stock RV-6a. They had expected > better characteristics than on the -6a, because of the longer tail moment. > > In the article, they made a relative comparison on the RV-6a and RV-7, > concluding that the neither the -6a or -7 meet aerobatic category spin > certification requirments, but both meet standard category spin requirements, > with the -6A having better characteristics than the -7. > > They are preparing to try a larger rudder "to enhance spin recovery > authority." > > Kyle Boatright > 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider > Kennesaw, GA > http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2002
Subject: [ Bob Cutting ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Cutting Subject: O-290 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bob_Cutting@toyota.ca.05.26.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: [ Bob Cutting ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
Date: May 26, 2002
Bob......thanks for the good pictures. I have an alternator that looks just like yours, and have been looking for a suitable pulley and mount. What did you use? Looks like a stock diameter black anodized pulley. Is it an automotive part? Mine has a 15 mm shaft. Is the mount a Van's boss mount? Mine is an 0-320, but I assume the pulley and mount would be the same as yours. Thanks, Gary A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Cutting Subject: O-290 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bob_Cutting@toyota.ca.05.26.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2002
Subject: [ Dale Larsen ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Dale Larsen <slickrock@been-there.com> Subject: Flap position indicator http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/slickrock@been-there.com.05.27.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2002
Subject: [ Dan Checkoway ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Dan Checkoway Subject: TruTrak autopilot installation diagrams http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dan@rvproject.com.05.27.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Wire Routing in Tail
Date: May 27, 2002
I have a question regarding wire run to the tail. The tail is obviously different than the -6 so there isn't any builder history. I need to rivet the aft skins this week - just gotta stop waffling about wire runs to the rear. I need to run wire for a white position light in the rudder. It looks really tough to do. My thinking is to run a plastic tube through snap bushings in the bottom bulkheads (drill out tooling holes). I need to exit the rear bulkhead - and run wire into the rudder bottom. How is this done ? ? The rearmost bulkhead is solid, and the rudder swivels. I'm leery about drilling through it for expose wire. I would like to lay in a plastic tube in the rudder bottom, have a break, then have a plastic tube through all of the rear bulkheads for the light, after which it can be bundled with elevator trim wire, etc. I will have to remove the tail again to get the project outside. I am not comfortable with this type of solution but can't think of anything better. An Oshkosh walkabout is too far off to get better ideas. Can anyone help with a better solution? Am I really the only one with a rear position light? Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 15% Complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Routing in Tail
Date: May 28, 2002
I drilled a hole for a 1/4" snap bushing directly between the two plates that make up the bottom hinge, offset to one side so it doesn't interfere with the hinge bolt. Because the parts are so thick here, I had to use a bit of weatherstrip adhesive to secure the snap bushing. It seems to pivot fine without concern for pinching the wire. I too would be interested in knowing how others solved this. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2002
Subject: [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Gary Crowder Subject: Manual trim cable mount http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.05.28.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Wire Routing in Tail
Date: May 29, 2002
As the originator of this question I would like to give my follow-up. I ended up drilling between the bottom hinges similar to what Gary did. I did not use a snap bushing on the rear bulkhead. I drilled out the tooling holes in the other two tail bulkheads, and inserted two snap bushings plus a plastic tube. This permitted me to drill a smaller hole in the aft bulkhead while protecting the wire run from the rear bulkheads through the rudder bottom. I'm happy with it. No binding, no drainage trap, etc. The tube serves as a bushing to protect the wire in a busy, windy area close to lots of moving metal. Thanks. > I drilled a hole for a 1/4" snap bushing directly between the two plates that > make up the bottom hinge, offset to one side so it doesn't interfere with the > hinge bolt. Because the parts are so thick here, I had to use a bit of > weatherstrip adhesive to secure the snap bushing. It seems to pivot fine > without concern for pinching the wire. I too would be interested in knowing > how others solved this. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Firewall forward
Date: May 29, 2002
Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery box. I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their own to share? Thanks, Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: AK aug 2001 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.05.29.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Routing in Tail
Date: May 29, 2002
I like it! In my case, there were five wires (2 for position, 3 for strobe) so I needed a larger hole. I may adopt your tube idea rather than the snap bushing just to eliminate any chance of pinching. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 29, 2002
Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad odds-n-ends are up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do. I agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery mounting until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have some leeway as to how and where the battery can go. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Gary here's a good all around picture site especially for firewall forward http://vondane.com/rv8a/index.htm He didn't gascolate but that is located for you anyway on the firewall drawing. The fact that it's an RV-8a doesn't seem to make a whole lot of logistical difference. Bill Rounds N159RV Finish kit RV-9a Gary wrote: > >Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am >waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of >anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery >box. > >I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their >own to share? > >Thanks, > >Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: VSI Range
Date: May 29, 2002
Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the RV-9a? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Hey Gary, From what I hear, the new Firewall Forward "kit / package" from Vans also includes a set of plans and detailed instructions. Even if you are not going to use the package kit, you may want to order just the plans to see how they do it. The plans only are $25. - Andy ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:18:07 -0600 > >Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am >waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of >anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery >box. > >I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their >own to share? > >Thanks, > >Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org>
Subject: Re: VSI Range
Dave, I chose the 3,000 ft/min for my RV-9A. I will probably not see anything above 2,000 for climb, but if I thought it would be important to know if I had been caught in somewhat a fast decent due to natural forces. Regards, Fabian > dnick2(at)insightbb.com 05/29/02 11:51PM >>> Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the RV-9a? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 30, 2002
Actually, I like the battery box installed according to the DWG 31. Really professional and sturdy. It leaves a lot of space all around the Dynafocal mount. I also have Bob Nuckalls ground block, as well. It seems that this will give simple and short wire runs on both sides of the firewall (left-side oriented). Although there aren't many pictures around, there are firewall layouts in the Finish kit (sort of) and a couple of good RV-6 examples in the Tony Bingelis books. I plan to use them as a guideline when I start the engine work. I would suggest that you use platenuts on the cabin side so that one person can remove things such as relays, etc. I plan to do most of the layout up front and do much of the drilling at the same time. I have cut out the control cable and cabin heat holes per the DWG - an area where Vans has made a number of minor changes. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 15% Complete > Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad odds-n-ends are > up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do. I > agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a > Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery mounting > until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have some > leeway as to how and where the battery can go. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 30, 2002
Gary, Just got the FWF kit for the 9 last week. It is very complete. It does have a smaller, improved battery box that mounts in a different location. I had to drill out the larger one that came with the finish kit. If you're thinking about the FWF kit, don't mount the battery box! Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> Subject: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am > waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of > anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery > box. > > I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their > own to share? > > Thanks, > > Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: VSI Range
Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its an arbitrary call to go with either one. Personally, I will pick the 2000 ft/min display as I would mostly care when setting up a standard decent rate of 500 ft/min. Leland in Pleasanton Fitting tailfeathers "Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the RV-9a?" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: VSI Range
---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: federigo(at)pacbell.net >Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch >prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its Ok Guys (and Gals) Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on these rivets and working out the endless details... 2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun! - Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dutch Revenboer" <n507aa(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VSI Range
Date: May 30, 2002
When I glanced at the VSI in the -9A demonstrator at SNF this April (85 degrees, Humidity=FLORIDA), it was pegged at 1800 fpm. Gus was flying, my guess he is 170, and I weigh about 210. Dutch -9a Someday soon Edmond, OK >From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:37:38 -0500 > > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >From: federigo(at)pacbell.net > >Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch > >prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its > > >Ok Guys (and Gals) > >Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on these >rivets and working out the endless details... > >2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun! > >- Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: VSI Range
Date: May 30, 2002
05/31/2002 12:16:17 AM, Serialize complete at 05/31/2002 12:16:17 AM Check out the Rocky Mountain Micro Encoder. The VSI function is adjustable from 1000 to 6000 FPM by the owner. Also gives you the altitude encoding for your transponder. Regards Larry Perryman "Dutch Revenboer" Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com 05/30/2002 03:37 PM Please respond to rv9-list To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range When I glanced at the VSI in the -9A demonstrator at SNF this April (85 degrees, Humidity=FLORIDA), it was pegged at 1800 fpm. Gus was flying, my guess he is 170, and I weigh about 210. Dutch -9a Someday soon Edmond, OK >From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:37:38 -0500 > > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >From: federigo(at)pacbell.net > >Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch > >prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its > > >Ok Guys (and Gals) > >Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on these >rivets and working out the endless details... > >2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun! > >- Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 30, 2002
Gary-I posted a message on 5/19 relative to forward on the firewall. There are several drawings which show the things required. They are OP-26, 27, 28, and 29. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 30, 2002
Be aware that DWG-19 which shows the firewall penetration points has 4 revisions on the drawing. I think all of the revisions were published in the RVator. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on FWF ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > Actually, I like the battery box installed according to the DWG 31. Really > professional and sturdy. It leaves a lot of space all around the Dynafocal > mount. I also have Bob Nuckalls ground block, as well. It seems that this > will give simple and short wire runs on both sides of the firewall > (left-side oriented). Although there aren't many pictures around, there are > firewall layouts in the Finish kit (sort of) and a couple of good RV-6 > examples in the Tony Bingelis books. I plan to use them as a guideline when > I start the engine work. I would suggest that you use platenuts on the > cabin side so that one person can remove things such as relays, etc. I plan > to do most of the layout up front and do much of the drilling at the same > time. I have cut out the control cable and cabin heat holes per the DWG - > an area where Vans has made a number of minor changes. > Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop > Finish Kit 15% Complete > > > Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad odds-n-ends > are > > up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do. > I > > agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a > > Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery > mounting > > until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have > some > > leeway as to how and where the battery can go. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
Subject: engine cowl interior protection
Date: May 30, 2002
I recently read somewhere that someone recomemded the interior of the cowl be protected to prevent heat and oil residue from damaging the honeycomb liner does anyone have any recomendations ? Steve Dwyer 90219 Finishing Kit 50% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Firewall Forward
Date: May 30, 2002
Thanks a bunch to all you guys who replied with help on the firewall forward stuff. I, too, like the stock battery box for the Concord battery, which I plan to use. There are two dimensional errors on my sheet 31, which I just recieved a few weeks ago. They are the ones showing the distance from the battery box to the lower flange of the firewall, and the side row of rivets. I called Van's about it, and was told they had been revised. The interesting thing is, I just noticed they are CORRECT on the OLDER drawing I got with the preview plans......incorrect on my later, revised ones that came with the finish kit. The box should be 8 11/16 above the bottom firewall flange. My drawing (revised 4/3/01) shows 4 11/32. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: VSI Range
Date: May 30, 2002
2000 FPM, so you can gleefully PEG it! Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Nicholson To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 9:51 PM Subject: RV9-List: VSI Range Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the RV-9a? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit = = messages. = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Ellison
Date: May 30, 2002
One more firewall forward question: I'd like to visit with anyone using an Ellison Throttle Body on their -9A 0-320. Van's couldn't tell me for sure whether the same controls used on the Marvel carb setup would fit this. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: engine cowl interior protection
Date: May 30, 2002
I have always had good luck with sprayable gelcoat on fiberglass cars. It sprays on like three-day-old coffee. I've used it on every fiberglass corvette project. It takes some sanding, but comes out looking like a bowling ball. It stops "errant strands" aka spiderweb cracks, from showing through your paint too. For inside the cowl, I wouldn't bother sanding, just a single coat would do the trick. I needs to cure for a week or two before painting over it. Bear in mind it is black. If anyone knows where I can get white sprayable gelcoat, please tell! This stuff comes from Ecklers Corvette in florida www.ecklers.com about $90/gallon (which will do an entire car or about ten RV cowls. Gary N. ----- Original Message ----- From: steve dwyer <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> Subject: RV9-List: engine cowl interior protection > > I recently read somewhere that someone recomemded the interior of the > cowl be protected to prevent heat and oil residue from damaging the > honeycomb liner does anyone have any recomendations ? > > > Steve Dwyer 90219 Finishing Kit 50% > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Routing in Tail
Date: May 30, 2002
I found that a piece of 1/2 inch PVC water pipe fits perfectly in the snap bushing holes. I used it for conduit for my ELT wiring past the front pushrod. Gary I like it! In my case, there were five wires (2 for position, 3 for strobe) so I needed a larger hole. I may adopt your tube idea rather than the snap bushing just to eliminate any chance of pinching. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: May 31, 2002
>>>>RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" ....I posted a message on 5/19 relative to forward on the firewall. There are several drawings which show the things required. They are OP-26, 27, 28, and 29. <<<<< Albert: Some of us were pretty far along when the FWF Kit was announced. Since I am using Vans stuff where warranted I have ended up with a similar homegrown parts list - I have printed off the FWF Kit contents so I could use it as a parts guide for the remainder of the work. QUESTION: For us "non-kitters" does one of the OP-26,27,28,29 drawings you mentioned have an overall layout of the firewall which we could use for planning purposes. I struggle with the concept placing one object on the firewall without knowing where all the other stuff should go. I may mount something then later find that the exhaust, etc., blocks access or cooks it. Even Vans have made many revisions to their design just for control cables. The FWF drawing (or preview drawing) would probably be a good template as a starting point for laying out our own design. Thanks for any help. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 15% Complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Aileron bearings
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Looking at the aileron bearings I see they become 'sealed' into the two halves of the bracket. Clearly the bracket should be primed but since it is a steel bearing in an ally case should extra anticorrosion measures be taken? What have folk been doing? Thanks, Steve N Yorks UK #90360 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 02, 2002
For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and the filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. The fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little fittings and hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately if you only wanted them, and they are very valuable. OP26 - Control cables OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler OP28 - Fuel system OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19 (firewall penetration points) If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on the inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It would be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line before the firewall is riveted in. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron bearings
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Prime it and forget about it. I believe the bearing is cadmium plated anyway. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Albert, I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to round up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them with no interference. It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall. Then you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the starter and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when it's easy. Dale RV9A N61DX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased > several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and the > filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. The > fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little fittings and > hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately if > you only wanted them, and they are very valuable. > OP26 - Control cables > OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler > OP28 - Fuel system > OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure > and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19 > (firewall penetration points) > If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on the > inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It would > be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line before > the firewall is riveted in. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) > Working on FWF > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Albert and Dale I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit? Paul Yarbrough Puyallup, WA RV-9a 90317 Close to the end on Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Larsen Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward Albert, I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to round up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them with no interference. It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall. Then you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the starter and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when it's easy. Dale RV9A N61DX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased > several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and the > filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. The > fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little fittings and > hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately if > you only wanted them, and they are very valuable. > OP26 - Control cables > OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler > OP28 - Fuel system > OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure > and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19 > (firewall penetration points) > If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on the > inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It would > be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line before > the firewall is riveted in. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) > Working on FWF > > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Check RVator issue #6 2001. Albert Gardner Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > Albert and Dale > > I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look > hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit? > > Paul Yarbrough > Puyallup, WA > RV-9a 90317 > Close to the end on Wings > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Larsen > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > > Albert, > > I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would > save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to > round > up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them > with no interference. > > It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall. > Then > you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the > starter > and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when > it's > easy. > > Dale > RV9A N61DX > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward > > > > > > > For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased > > several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and > the > > filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. > The > > fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little > fittings > and > > hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately > if > > you only wanted them, and they are very valuable. > > OP26 - Control cables > > OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler > > OP28 - Fuel system > > OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure > > and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19 > > (firewall penetration points) > > If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on > the > > inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It > would > > be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line > before > > the firewall is riveted in. > > Albert Gardner > > Yuma, AZ > > RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) > > Working on FWF > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 03, 2002
On the web site, look in the accessories catalog under "new products", or search for FWF. Gary I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit? Paul Yarbrough Puyallup, WA RV-9a 90317 Close to the end on Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall forward
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Go to Vans site, click on accessorizes catalog, click on engines and accessories and there you are Gene 90557 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Here we go again
Date: Jun 03, 2002
I picked up 90557 at Van's last Friday and am well on the way. One big difference with this kit is no "H" frame is needed for the vertical stab. it is all prepunched. I also picked up the firewall forward plans and manual ($ 25.00) and well worth it. They will deduct the cost when you get a FWF kit. The price for the FWF kit might seem a little steep but there are some big ticket items included, check out the inventory on Vans' site. Gene #90557 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Here we go again
Gene wrote: > > I picked up 90557 at Van's last Friday and am well on the way. One big > difference with this kit is no "H" frame is needed for the vertical > stab. it is all prepunched. I assume, then, that the "H" jig is not needed at all? (Much as with the newest "7" kits). Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Here we go again
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Yep, I assembled it on the bench and had it matched drilled in about two hours. Gene 90557 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Sub Panel cutouts
Some -6 builders have complained of inadequate space between the panel and subpanels. Can anybody tell me if this is a problem with the -9. Below is a copy of a post by a -6 builder. I also saw another post that complained of inadequate depth for a CD player. "Well I've been flying my 6A for over a year now and I am in the process of installing a Navaid autopilot and "I wish I had cut out most of the bulkhead behind the instrument panel". I would cut out most of the center/web area and install some angle along the bottom and a piece up the center to help support the canopy relase mechanism. So far I've had to cut huge holes in it for my horizon, DG, Navaid, GPS/COMM and transponder and it looks like swiss cheese." Leland (RV9AQB) Thinking about doing the front deck for a slider ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Sub Panel cutouts
Leland The Navaid fits in the 9A with plenty of room to spare but most radios and transponders require a cut out in the subpanels. The micromonitor fits easily if you're contemplating one of those Bill Rounds N159RV Firewall forward federigo(at)pacbell.net wrote: > >Some -6 builders have complained of inadequate space between the panel >and subpanels. Can anybody tell me if this is a problem with the -9. >Below is a copy of a post by a -6 builder. I also saw another post that >complained of inadequate depth for a CD player. > > >"Well I've been flying my 6A for over a year now and I am in the >process of installing a Navaid autopilot and "I wish I had cut >out most of the bulkhead behind the instrument panel". I would >cut out most of the center/web area and install some angle along >the bottom and a piece up the center to help support the canopy >relase mechanism. So far I've had to cut huge holes in it for >my horizon, DG, Navaid, GPS/COMM and transponder and it looks >like swiss cheese." > > >Leland (RV9AQB) >Thinking about doing the front deck for a slider > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin, clecoing the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything I could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using "Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement, "Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to the cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film (this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because, when it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good? Bad? Indifferent? Thomas C. Grant 30900, still struggling with the Emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Thomas, A good way to rivet the trailing edges of the elevator (and rudder) is to use the method used for the flaps and elevators. Trouble is, Van's doesn't introduce you to this method until you get to the wings. Here is a synopsis: (1) Place the control surface on a FLAT table, and clamp it down straight. I used a 2x2 board clamped across the top to hold the control surface flat against the table. Shot bags work well too. (2) Now drill the trailing edges and AEX wedge into the table. Cleco the drilled holes to the table as you go. (3) Remove the assembly. Deburr, dimple and countersink the wedge. (4) You must use a bucking bar that is even with the surface of the table. This allows the control surface to remain flat while you are riviting the trailing edge. I bolted a 3x3x4' angle to the edge of my table, with the top surface of the angle machined flat. Others hac\ve countersunk a steel plate in their table. Either method works well. Clamp the control surface (top down) to the table, with the trailing edge extending over the 'bucking bar', with manufactured heads on the bucking bar. (5) Back set the rivets, (from the shop side) but only half way. Work from the center out to the edges. (6) Flip the entire assembly over and finish set the rivets from the manufactured side. (7) Remove the control surface and sight down the trailing edge. Perfectly straight! Some tips: Don't overset the rivets. This will put pressure on the surface and wedge, and cause wow in the trailing edge. Don't use rivets that are too long. The temptation is to try to completely fill the shop side of the double flush hole. This isn't necessary, and besides, they're on the bottom where they won't be seen. Hope that my explanation makes sense. I'm sure that other builders will have more suggestions and improvements on this method. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV9-List: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces > > Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to > align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very > little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin, clecoing > the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded > double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything I > could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using > "Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight > surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the > riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces > together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I > had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask > for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement, > "Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to the > cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film > (this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to > dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because, when > it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good? > Bad? Indifferent? > > Thomas C. Grant > 30900, still struggling with the Emp > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Oh yeah, Proseal. I understand the proseal is only to keep the outside edges from curling up, not to hold the assembly in place. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV9-List: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces > > Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to > align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very > little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin, clecoing > the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded > double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything I > could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using > "Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight > surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the > riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces > together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I > had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask > for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement, > "Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to the > cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film > (this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to > dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because, when > it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good? > Bad? Indifferent? > > Thomas C. Grant > 30900, still struggling with the Emp > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Thomas I only have two things to add to Dale Larsen's reply. First, I want to re-emphasize Van's instructions under "Finishing the Right Elevator Trailing Edge" that state as follows: " When back riveting the trailing edge, start driving with the gun held parallel to the rivet and tilt the gun perpendicular to the skin while driving ". If you start driving with the gun perpendicular to the skin, you will bend the rivet toward the leading edge of the control surface. Second, to anyone on the list, when you get to the wing drawings, you will find that the rivet callouts for the flap and aileron trailing edges are AN426AD3-3's. I had forgotten that -3.5's were used in the empennage and found out the hard way that -3's were too short. Van's agreed that -3.5s should have been called out there also. I don't know when drawing revisions might start showing this correction. Dean Van Winkle 90095 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
> When you get to the wing drawings, you > will find that the rivet callouts for the flap and aileron trailing > edges are AN426AD3-3's. I had forgotten that -3.5's were used in the > empennage and found out the hard way that -3's were too short. Van's > agreed that -3.5s should have been called out there also. I don't know > when drawing revisions might start showing this correction. > Hmmmmm. . . . I used 3's on my ailerons and flaps and although they looked short to me, the trailing edges seem to be holding together just fine. I was very tempted to use 3.5s, but a story in the RVator last year said the secret to double-flush riveting is to NOT completely fill the dimple with the shop head. I figured this was the reason the plans called for 3's. Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Contact cement is exactly what I used. I clamped the three parts together then back riveted them. They came out looking very good. Make sure use a long backriveting plate mine is 31 inches long and embeded in the table. Set the rivets as described in the manual and you should be ok. Drive them all at once from one side and you take the chance of having a crooked trailing edge. Gene 90557 #2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: John Oliveira <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
I did it exactly as recommended by VANS in their instructions and they came out as close to perfect as I can recognize. I wrote something about it last year, but don't still have it around. When all else fails, just follow the instructions! John Oliveira, N909RV #90054 Wings almost done. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Henderson" <Neil.Mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Subject Elevator trailing edges
Date: Jun 08, 2002
Subject Elevator trailing edges. I've just finished mine and they turned out spot on. I used a thin coat of epoxy on the ally wedge and Clecoed every hole to the bench. When set the assembly is as straight as an arrow. Riveting is a now a doodle with no fear of Introducing any warps. I also found the length of rivet called out a little short and used 3.5's as per the elevators. I'm now working on the flaps an in my opinion there is a misalignment in the holes in the end rib relative to the holes in the Reinforcing / actuating arm. In fact if you look at the drawing the holes in question are miss registered. As the assembly drawing is probably CAD generated from the parts drawings it shows the position of the holes in both parts. I drilled new holes to achieve proper alignment. Neil Henderson Rv9-A Builder Aylesbury England Wings nearly finished ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
Date: Jun 08, 2002
I bought the leading edge landing light from VANS but wondering if that was a mistake. My thought is that rather than cut a hole in the wing it might be simpler (and cheaper and lighter) to install a landing light in the glass tip beside the nav light. I have seen no discussion of this. Thoughts? Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
Date: Jun 08, 2002
http://vondane.com/rv8a/landlightkit/ check out this site it may be what you are looking for. Gene 90557 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
Date: Jun 08, 2002
> I bought the leading edge landing light from VANS but wondering > if that was > a mistake. > > My thought is that rather than cut a hole in the wing it might be simpler > (and cheaper and lighter) to install a landing light in the glass > tip beside > the nav light. I have seen no discussion of this. Thoughts? > > Steve. Definitely a mistake! The location is fine, but the kit is far overpriced and not a very good design. I bought 2 of them & should have sent them back, as I ended modifying most all of the parts to suit my installation. You can buy everything you need to make your own for less than $30 for both lights. Send 'em back, make your own! S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
Date: Jun 09, 2002
On the other hand, I was very happy with the installation. One in each wing, easy installation and looks pretty good to me. I replaced the bulb with a brighter one but that's all. I thought about-but didn't do-the modification discussed here about making them adjustable. FWIW Albert Gardner Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 09, 2002
I have decided to use AFS one part primer/sealer for this project. Can any one tell me if there is a "life" on this primer after it reduced with distilled water ? If not I would like to mix it a gallon at a time. The last primer I used was Trio two part polyurethane from Napa Auto parts. It was a good primer but I wasted a lot of mixing up too much of it. Gene 90557 empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 09, 2002
Gene.....Andy Karmy used that system. http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/rv9priming.htm If I paint this thing myself I will use their finish paint. It is waterbourne (NOT water-based) polyurethane, and non-hazardous to use. I went to their forum and they also came here to give us a seminar on their systems. Excellent stuff. They have gotten some undeserved bad press from people who have used solvent-based systems for so long that they thought they did not need to follow the directions. It takes a different application technique to turn out nice and glossy. Not hard, just different. Gary I have decided to use AFS one part primer/sealer for this project. Can any one tell me if there is a "life" on this primer after it reduced with distilled water ? If not I would like to mix it a gallon at a time. The last primer I used was Trio two part polyurethane from Napa Auto parts. It was a good primer but I wasted a lot of mixing up too much of it. Gene 90557 empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 09, 2002
Thanks Gary it is Andys site that put me on to AFS. I sprayed all the horz. and some of the rudder today and am not too happy about the way it came out, and yes I did follow the instructions. The container says to reduce to 18-20 sec. and the website says 20-25. I mixed on pint of distilled water to one quart primer and that made about 19 secs. Perhaps that is too thin as when I put the final medium coat it ran like water. I am going to contact AFS tomorrow and find out what gives. I will pass on the info. Gene 90557 empennage.......riveting again!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Ok, here's what I've found out about the 1 part primer sealer thus far... First, I have not had good luck keeping mixed up paint. I tried putting some in a jar after spraying and it hardened up by the next time I needed some. Thus I've been just mixing as I go. Now 1 quart water to 1 quart paint seems like way too thin... I don't measure the water any more, and I don't even use the M50 anymore, so it's just kind of by feel. After 30 batches you get used to how much it needs and what it looks like in the cup. You really want it thicker than thin to get good results. Next it seems like you are putting too much paint out. Or it's too cold? I have no end of troubles with runs if the weather is cold (less than 65deg) when I'm spraying. Yesterday with the sun out and 75 outside as fast as I sprayed it was dry (or so it seemed). Make sure you set the gun to give just a mist for the first cross coat to get it attached to teh surface. Then you can go just a bit heaver. You don't want a "wet" coat... On my gun it's half a turn of the needle from the mist setting (which is about 1 turn out from closed). This will vary by gun type etc. Hope you can get it all worked out. I'm just finishing the last of the metal in the kit and have had great results using AFS products. In the next couple weeks I'll be painting the interior so I'll give a report on how that goes later. - Andy ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:04:33 -0700 > >Thanks Gary it is Andys site that put me on to AFS. I sprayed all the horz. >and some of the rudder today and am not too happy about the way it came out, >and yes I did follow the instructions. The container says to reduce to >18-20 sec. and the website says 20-25. I mixed on pint of distilled water >to one quart primer and that made about 19 secs. Perhaps that is too thin >as when I put the final medium coat it ran like water. I am going to >contact AFS tomorrow and find out what gives. I will pass on the info. > >Gene 90557 empennage.......riveting again!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Aerodynamics
Date: Jun 10, 2002
Not strictly a building question but something I have been puzzling about. Since there is no wash out in the RV9 wings why does it have such benign stalling characteristics? Surely most GA aircraft have significant washout. Any aerodynamicists out there? Steve #90360 N Yorks., UK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
Date: Jun 10, 2002
Thanks for the help everyone. I think I will go the wingtip route but as Albert sais its fine in the wings also. Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Subject: Re: RV9-List: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 On the other hand, I was very happy with the installation. One in each wing, easy installation and looks pretty good to me. I replaced the bulb with a brighter one but that's all. I thought about-but didn't do-the modification discussed here about making them adjustable. FWIW Albert Gardner Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 10, 2002
...and if you scratch the painted surfaces, say with a knife, how well does this H2O-bourne stuff hold up? Is it self-etching? Just curious. I've never sprayed it before. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Aerodynamics
Date: Jun 10, 2002
I'm no Chanute, but from general knowledge and a lot of hours messing with a simulator model, I'd say it has a lot to do with the airfoil and wing plan. The straight, large, square flying surfaces and fair amount of dihedral would provide a predictable stall, and the Roncz airfoil with its upturned trailing edge would account for the "benign" feel that sets the 9 apart from all other models. It's just a slippery wing that likes to fly (technically speaking... ; ) I'm looking forward to investigating these stalls some more real soon! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 10, 2002
I called AFS today and got some good info.. They said that 18 sec was probably too thin ( 1 pt to 1 qt..) They are supposed to get back to me on the correct M 50 time. As I think I said the container says one thing the web site another. The biggest hint came when we were discussing paint guns. I thought we were on the same page as far as HVLP was concerned until I was told to adjust the gun pressure to about 25 psi. We were talking two different guns, mine is a turbine HVLP and they were talking about the conversion type HVLP. With a turbine you have very warm air and when doing the mist coats it was actually drying as hit the surface making for an orange peel look. The runs were simply too much paint. The suggestion for the warm air was to add a length of hose, or put some of the hose in cold water to cool it off, and to try a little heavier mixture. I'll give that a try but if that doesn't help then its off to Harbor Freight for there gun, I think that is the gun Andy is using. Gene 90557 onward and upward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems
Date: Jun 11, 2002
Gary.....my understanding from the AFS presentations is that their coating is polyurethane. The physical properties are listed on the web site, and compare very favorably with other polyurethanes. It is very flexible and has a high gloss. It is catalyzed with cyanide, (I think it is), just like any polyurethane. The reason it is not hazardous to us humans is that they have found a way to apply it in a water-borne form, and the arsenic has such a great affinity for water that it does not get into your soft, fragile bod. You still need a respirator, obviously. And you need to apply it in several very thin, light, mist coats. They recommend an HVLP gun that is not the turbine type, since that heats the spray and makes it almost impossible to apply it without drying as it hit the surface. Spray techniques and flash times and recoat times need to be adhered to, and the thinner the coating you end up with the better. Some painters experienced with solvent-based systems have tried it their way, and ended up with a very rough finish because they put on excessively heavy coats. This is just from memory of a workshop last fall, so I may not have it all right. Check out http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/about-us.htm or call Tammy or Paul Yedinack at AFS. Their contact info is on the web site. Gary ...and if you scratch the painted surfaces, say with a knife, how well does this H2O-bourne stuff hold up? Is it self-etching? Just curious. I've never sprayed it before. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Roberts" <bonanza36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Want to trade your 9QB for My 7QB?
Date: Jun 12, 2002
RV9 List, I have a late August/early September delivery position for a 7QB. I would like to trade for a position for a 9QB. My empennage is finished but the rudder will need to be replaced with the new design. Van's says that the QB kits are all the same when they come from the Philippines so my kit can be delivered with your choice of canopy or gear style. If I change my order with Van's I will have to go to the back of the line (9 months). Anyone interested in a trade? Thanks, John Roberts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Bad email going around to RV listers
Date: Jun 13, 2002
Beware of email from "RV8R300" with a title "Hi { your-name }" It contains a virus. This just hit me twice, I presume from the two RV related lists I frequent. This goes to show the importance of both virus protection, and using a meaningful title string in your email messages. Normally I would never open a message with the title "Hi", but considering the familiar ring of the senders name, I fell for it. No damage done, Norton nailed it instantly. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit
Date: Jun 13, 2002
06/13/2002 03:12:34 PM, Serialize complete at 06/13/2002 03:12:34 PM Best I recall it was 4x4x8 or 10 I would use at least a 12 foot trailer. Regards Larry Perryman N194DL 90288 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2002
Subject: Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit
From: vcordero(at)juno.com
Guys, I have the finishing box sitting outside my garage. The box is 8 ft Long, 5 ft Wide and 3 ft high. Weight is 300 pounds. Two average guys can handle the box. thx, Victor Cordero, Long Island, NY RV9A, Eggenfellner Subaru #90319 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2002
Subject: [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Fabian Lefler Subject: Compressor-Tool Bench http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FLEFLER@broward.org.06.13.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Browsing Feature!
Dear Listers, I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads. A number of List members have written to say that they love the List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the Digest issue to come out. You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and clicking on the List of your choice: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse Enjoy! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Keith Bedell" <bedelk(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: XDP4000X-List: unhappy
Date: Jun 14, 2002
All- I hooked up my xdp-4000x and it sounds like crap. I ordered the necessary cable from online and tried to tune it, but it just got worse. Is there something missing htat I need to do to get it to work. When I bypass it with rca splitters the res of my system works like a charm. I have the 6001ES running three 10' ES subs. Then 2 1805 ES's handling everything else. Aside from the problems with the 4x, there is a huge disparity between cd volume and radio volume. I mean huge!!!. I can max out radio volume and it sounds ok, then pop in a cd and half way blows mee out of the cab. Any ideas, I anm just so dissapointed right now.... From: Matt Dralle <DRALLE(at)MATRONICS.COM> Reply-To: xdp4000x-list(at)matronics.com To: Email-Lists(at)matronics.com Subject: XDP4000X-List: List Browsing Feature! Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:52:33 -0700 -- XDP4000X-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads. A number of List members have written to say that they love the List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the Digest issue to come out. You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and clicking on the List of your choice: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse Enjoy! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit
Date: Jun 14, 2002
>> The box is 8 ft Long, 5 ft Wide and 3 ft high. Weight is 300 pounds. Two average guys can handle the box. Victor Cordero, Long Island, NY RV9A, Eggenfellner Subaru << The size of the box may vary depending upon the options/extras. My order was pretty standard - and agreed with the documentation at Vans website. That is roughly 8' by 4' by 27". It is a hair undersize - perhaps to get through a 4' opening. A little over 300 lbs (320???). However, you need more than two people - if you need to do anything more than just slide it off, tip it, etc. In my case we had to offload the box and carry it about 30' through pretty heavy snow. I had six people - good thing because two of them fell trying to protect the shipment. Wonderful guys - really focused! The box was "sawdust board" - very slippery for winter handling/carrying. Next time I would build a rope harness and carry it by the rope. If you can back up a truck to the actual door you need four people. Spring for a full case of good beer! Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 20% Complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Reserving "N" Number
Date: Jun 16, 2002
I called my local FSDO and inquired about the procedure for reserving an N number. I was told that all I had to do was send a letter to Oklahoma City with 5 choices and the fee. I can't believe the FAA doing anything without the proper form. Was this info correct? If not please enlighten me ! One more question. I just purchased a complete FWF 0-320 A1A. Is the any chance that the exhaust system will work on my RV-9A ? I understand that engine originally came from a Piper. Gene 90557 Vert. and Horz. Stab finished, working on rudder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Reserving "N" Number
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
You can reserve an N number on the FAA web site. I got mine within just a few days. www.faa.gov You get 5 choices and a last choice. I ended up getting ours by including "any number ending in 9RV" since my first five were already taken. Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) On Sunday, June 16, 2002, at 07:52 PM, Gene wrote: > > I called my local FSDO and inquired about the procedure for reserving an > N number. I was told that all I had to do was send a letter to Oklahoma > City with 5 choices and the fee. I can't believe the FAA doing anything > without the proper form. Was this info correct? If not please enlighten > me ! > > One more question. I just purchased a complete FWF 0-320 A1A. Is > the any chance that the exhaust system will work on my RV-9A ? I > understand that engine originally came from a Piper. > > Gene 90557 Vert. and Horz. Stab finished, working on rudder > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 2002
Subject: HOROZ. STAB.
HOWDY EVERYBODY. 6-16-02 I'D LIKE TO HANG MY HOROZONTAL STAB. FROM THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE TO SAVE FLOOR ROOM. THE RAFTERS ARE EXPOSED , SO IT SHOULD BE EASIER. HANG IT FLAT OR VERTICALLY? I HAVE A 10 FOOT CEILING. IT SEEMS TO ME THAT HANGING IT VERTICALLY, BY THE CENTER SECTION, AND SOME TYPE OF STABILIZATION AT THE TIP TO STOP ANY SWAYING WOULD BE OK. ANY THOUGHTS? THANKS DAVID 90079 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: HOROZ. STAB.
Date: Jun 17, 2002
>> I'D LIKE TO HANG MY HOROZONTAL STAB. FROM THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE TO SAVE FLOOR ROOM. THE RAFTERS ARE EXPOSED , SO IT SHOULD BE EASIER. HANG IT FLAT OR VERTICALLY? I HAVE A 10 FOOT CEILING.... << David and others: I had made two simple jigs (two pieces of plywood with cut-outs traced from a rib), in order to hold the H.Stabs during construction. When finished I attached a bracket to each, and screwed them to wall right up at the 9' ceiling. You could attach them to the ceiling, not much harder to do. I secured the H.Stab with a couple of bungies, to hold the stabilizer tight, and for backup. I was able to support each H.Stab at about mid point - at a place where there were ribs underneath. There was about 3" above the stabilizer so the whole thing took less than a foot from the ceiling of the garage. Worked very well. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 20% Complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Reserving "N" Number
Date: Jun 17, 2002
Several RVers had reported that that they were unable to actually use the N number they reserved. Apparently the database of numbers available for reservation is not quite the same as the numbers available for registration. It appears that you find out if there is a difference only when you try to register your reserved number. Fortunately, this only appears to be a problem in a small number of cases.Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on firewall forward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: HOROZ. STAB.
Date: Jun 17, 2002
When I was painting my HS, I stuck 2 pieces of wooden rod (the wooden rod you hang clothes on in your closet) about of 3 or 4 feet into each end through the lightening holes in the ribs to hold it. If you put a piece of Styrofoam sheet on top for protection against scratching from the ceiling it works well for that also. Albert Gardner Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DThomas773(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2002
Subject: Re: HOROZ. STAB.
Hi Dave, I put an AN-3 bolt through two of the elevator hing brackets, and then hung it on storage hooks ( the kind you buy at the hardware store for hanging tools, bikes, etc) that I screwed into the rafter in my garage. It has been safely hanging there for over a year now. Dennis Thomas RV 9A wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: RV-9A Flap Assy, Dwg 14
Date: Jun 18, 2002
Ref: Neil Henderson's June 8 msg, Subject: Elevator trailing edges. Neil and other RV-9 Builders Since the wing is a constant chord design, all of the parts shown in the Right Side View of Dwg 14 are either parallel or perpendicular to the plane of the face of the drawing, except for the web of the FL-905-L main rib and the aft part of the FL-906B-L plate. The apparent ' miss register ' of the mating holes in those two parts is because it is a true view of them as they appear in a plane approx 10 degrees off the face of the drawing. Note that you can see both edges of the aft end of the plate just to the left of the rod end. Also see the plate as shown in Section B-B. If your Dwg 14 does not incorporate Revision 1, see The RVator second issue, 2001, which shows the two pre-punched holes in the rib web for the proper alignment of the rib and plate. I hope this will provide some clarity for fellow builders. Dean Van Winkle 90095 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Any 9-9A builders interested in meeting at Airventure?
Sure I would love to meet up with others at the big show! Me and the family will be driving (yes driving) out from Seattle. Maby next year we can fly in the RV! - Andy Karmy RV9A - 169AK Working on fuselage finishing http://www.karmy.com/rv9a ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "rjsflyer" <rjs1(at)mindspring.com> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 03:12:18 -0000 >Just wondered if 9-9A builders from the group would be interested in >meeting while in Oshkosh? It would be nice to meet some of the group >that may be attending. Van's 9-9A forum is Wednesday (7/24) morning >at 10:00am so maybe a good time would be at the conclusion of the >forum. Post a reply here and let's see how many out there would be >interested. > >Rick Schwandt >RV-9A N856RS >Emp. > > >Free $5 Love Reading >Risk Free! >http://us.click.yahoo.com/3PCXaC/PfREAA/Ey.GAA/SyTolB/TM > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2002
From: Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov>
Subject: [RV-9A] Any 9-9A builders interested in meeting atAirventure?
Gang, I plan on being at Oshkosh as well. I look forward to meeting you fella's there. Like most of you, I'll be driving in from New Mexico. We need some kind of sign or specific rendezvous location (ei, front left corner of tent) were we can get together after the Wed., 10:00an forum. Any suggestions? Rob RV-9A, fuselage **************************************** Robert M. Whitaker Los Alamos National Laboratory MS D448, Los Alamos, NM 87545 Phone: 505-667-1466 Pager: 888-947-5665 FAX: 505-665-4657 E-mail: rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov **************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com>
Subject: Ceramic coated exhaust systems.
Date: Jun 22, 2002
I am very interested in trying this on the exhaust system in my RV9. I am a however little confused by the following. David Wilks wrote > Again, I will suggest ceramic coatings. Ceramics for exhaust systems are now in the areas of 2600 degrees in thermal barrier strength. I have coated turbos and headers that you could touch with the hand while an engine was idling. Furthermore they increase the power output of your engine due to their added thermal efficiency by moving hotter exhaust gases faster. Also a gain is that you reduce the intake charge temp, netting a denser and cooler intake mixture. This is a benefit everywhere. I do not suggest wrapping of headers or intake pipes. This is very dangerous as it creates thermal hotspots that are uneven and will ruin the strength of the steel you are using. In most cases it causes accelerated fatigue, cracking and eventual failures. This appears contradictory and I am unclear as to whether coating, (wrapping), the headers is a good idea or not. Perhaps David (and others maybe) would be kind enough to explain and possibly suggest exact processes that are satisfactory. Thanks Rob Rob W M Shipley rob(at)robsglass.com RV9A N919RV resvd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Aileron Bellcrank
Date: Jun 23, 2002
Does anyone know the angular rotation of the bellcrank for full up / down movement of the ailerons? I think from the neutral position the numbers are not the same. (I am trying to work out how far up the crank I have to instal the pin for the Navaid in order to use its entire 'throw'). Hope someone can help. Thanks, Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Redbaron2010(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 2002
Subject: remove from this list
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Bellcrank
Hi Steve: I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw. Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them for the specifics of how and where they connected it up. My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there may be more required. Thanks Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Bellcrank
Date: Jun 25, 2002
Trutrak's new autopilot, the Digitrak, will install in the RV-9 with only a bracket supplied by Trutrak, which replaces the existing lower bellcrank support bracket. The installation has already all been planned, and can be done in a few hours. There are six wires that have to be ran for the trutrak. We recommend running the MAC servo wire, and one other for power. If anyone has any questions about the Digitrak, the can either call TruTrak at (479)751-0250 or E-mail at info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brandvold" <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Bellcrank > > Hi Steve: > I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know > the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you > just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty > wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw. > Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them > for the specifics of how and where they connected it up. > > My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo > and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there > may be more required. > > Thanks > Jim Brandvold > N209RV (Reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kenneth condrell" <drkencondrell(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: REMOVE FROM RV9 LIST
Date: Jun 25, 2002
PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THE RV9 LIST. THANK YOU KEN CONDRELL drkencondrell(at)worldnet.att.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Missing parts?
My kit came with the ventilation system parts SV-1, SV-2 and SV-5, but it did not include the Vent hose SV-3 nor the needed 2" hose clamps, AN737TW-66. Has anybody else gotten these parts or resolved this question? Leland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Missing parts?
CALL vAN'S. THEY WILL TAKE CARE OF IT. BAARY POTE RV9A FUSELAGE DO NOT ARCHICE federigo(at)pacbell.net wrote: > > > My kit came with the ventilation system parts SV-1, SV-2 and SV-5, but > it did not include the Vent hose SV-3 nor the needed 2" hose clamps, > AN737TW-66. Has anybody else gotten these parts or resolved this > question? > Leland > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Aileron Bellcrank
Date: Jun 24, 2002
Jim - from memory - I'm 99% sure - it is one power and two signal wires. With regard to my question, yes I know the max travel on the servo is 2.4", but what I am trying to ascertain is how far up the bellcrank to attach the servo pushrod. I think the pushrod from the stick moves more than 2.4". What I was hoping was that someone knew howmuch the bellcrank rotated in order to achieve full deflection of the ailerons. Ideally one would attach the pushrod at a point where it required the servo to use almost (but not quite) its full 2.4" range. Regards, Steve. PS I did contact VANS. They did not want to give out their drawing. I ascertained they mounted their servo on the tip with a long push rod. I am going for the bay beside the bellcrank, and a short pushrod. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Brandvold Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Bellcrank Hi Steve: I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw. Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them for the specifics of how and where they connected it up. My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there may be more required. Thanks Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Any 9-9/A builders interested in meeting at Airventure
Date: Jun 26, 2002
I too, would be interested in meeting with other builders after Van's forum on Wednesday, 7-24. Dean Van Winkle 90095 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips
Date: Jun 30, 2002
Some time ago, I remember reading a very complete description of how to fiberglass the open portions of the Horizontal Stabilizer and Rudder Fiberglass tips. It indicated just how to tape the parts to the right dimensions, what type of foam to use, what type of epoxy to use, etc. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I read this information, nor can I find it again. Can someone re-post this source? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Any 9-9/A builders interested in meeting at Airventure
Date: Jun 30, 2002
I expect to be at the Wednesday Forum. Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips
Date: Jun 30, 2002
I don't know if you were referring to my description, but I'll point you to it anyway. Surf to: http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/fuselage.htm And scroll down to, or search for: Fun Fabricating Fashionable Foam Fillers For Fiberglass Features ...hey epoxy fumes always do that to me... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jun 30, 2002
While "adjusting" the contour of the WD-640 Canopy Frame to match the curves of the Roll Bar and Aft Top Skin, some of the paint started popping off the frame when it was flexed. It looks like I'm going to have to remove all of the paint from the forward bar. Did anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to get the rest of the paint off? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jun 30, 2002
I had the same problem. The shape of the canopy frame was poor compared to the roll bar. I scraped the loose and cracked paint and feathered the rough edges with sand paper. I then primed the bare spots and applied Krylon (I think it was Pewter Grey) enamel paint with a small art brush. Not a perfect match, but the Powder Coat that cracked off was on the outside of the bar and is not visable not that I have installed the canopy. Dick Jones 90067 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> Subject: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint > > While "adjusting" the contour of the WD-640 Canopy Frame to match the curves > of the Roll Bar and Aft Top Skin, some of the paint started popping off the > frame when it was flexed. > > It looks like I'm going to have to remove all of the paint from the forward > bar. > > Did anyone else have this problem? > > What's the best way to get the rest of the paint off? > > Dave > 90347 > Finishing Kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Wing wiring
Date: Jun 30, 2002
Whaat are folk doing about wing wiring? 1. Are you planning on a joint inside the fuse or contiguous to the paanel. (I would prefer no joint but it seems to move lots of work to assembly at the airport.) 2. What route do people plan from the wing root to behind the panel. Through the floor alongside the fuel or under the cockpit coming? Would welcome thoughts on both of the above. Regards, Steve. #90360 N Yorks., UK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wing wiring
Steve: I ran the wiring through the wing before riveting the last skin on. I just left enough to route through the fuselage next to the fuel lines. This may use slightly more wire but it is relatively cheap and ends up with no joints in the wires. Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jun 30, 2002
Vans sells spray bombs of the grey paint. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips
Date: Jun 30, 2002
Gary, Good to hear that you plan on Sun-N-Fun next year. I will look for you there. You may have a visitor some day soon. Mike Okrent was down here in Houston this weekend and visited my hanger for a while. Since he lives in Conn. he said he may come up and see how your plane is coming along. He is a SLOW builder. Wings this year and fuselage next year. Trying to keep the building spirit up. Regards Larry Perryman N194DL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jun 30, 2002
The only paint I see on Van's site is the small bottle of "touch up paint". Do you know an a part number? Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint > > Vans sells spray bombs of the grey paint. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Has anyone installed the GretzAero "Alternate Mounting" kit for the electric elevator trim? Thoughts? Opinions? Does it affect functionality? Thanks, Matthew N523RV Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jul 01, 2002
I don't know the part number off hand, but it has been mentioned in this newsgroup before. Maybe a search will find it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Wing wiring
Steve, Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in Molex/Amp pin connectors. I wanted to have as much done as possible before moving to the airport and didn't want to leave a big length of wire to pull later. I plan to wire up both sides with a 6 pin connector to handle landing lights, strobes, and position lights. - Andy Karmy RV9A - Seattle WA Wiring! ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> >What are folk doing about wing wiring? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Pitot tube at wing root
> Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in > Molex/Amp pin connectors. What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the fuselage. Any thoughts? Mark Schrimmer Irvine, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
For Electrical, I intend to use terminal strips at the wing roots. I feel they will be more secure and corrosion resistant than a plug. For the Pitot Tube I'm thinking of installing a bulkhead coupling on the last rib and then bringing nylon tubing into the fuselage to the back of the panel. I've got the Gretz Heated Pitot Tube System, so there are two lines to deal with. Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root > > > > Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came > > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in > > Molex/Amp pin connectors. > > What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of > putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the > fuselage. Any thoughts? > > Mark Schrimmer > Irvine, CA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Wing wiring
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Andy - thanks. Yes I am leaning that way to. Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing wiring Steve, Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in Molex/Amp pin connectors. I wanted to have as much done as possible before moving to the airport and didn't want to leave a big length of wire to pull later. I plan to wire up both sides with a 6 pin connector to handle landing lights, strobes, and position lights. - Andy Karmy RV9A - Seattle WA Wiring! ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> >What are folk doing about wing wiring? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Mark. It made little sense to me to use an aluminium (or even aluminum) tube all the way down the wing and then change to a plastic tube at the wing root. I have purchased enough tube to go from the wing fitting to the panel in one hop. This will save a leaking joint and is probably lighter. Its cheap and would not be difficult to replace if it ever became necessary. I may well split the electric wiring at the wing root but I think I will be able to find time to pull the pitot line through when I finally put it together. Regards, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Schrimmer Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root > Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in > Molex/Amp pin connectors. What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the fuselage. Any thoughts? Mark Schrimmer Irvine, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Dave - are what you call 'terminal strips' things you can push fastons onto? I cant find them in aeroelectric catalogue. Have you seen them there? If not, where? Thanks, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson Subject: Re: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root For Electrical, I intend to use terminal strips at the wing roots. I feel they will be more secure and corrosion resistant than a plug. For the Pitot Tube I'm thinking of installing a bulkhead coupling on the last rib and then bringing nylon tubing into the fuselage to the back of the panel. I've got the Gretz Heated Pitot Tube System, so there are two lines to deal with. Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root > > > > Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came > > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in > > Molex/Amp pin connectors. > > What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of > putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the > fuselage. Any thoughts? > > Mark Schrimmer > Irvine, CA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Steve, Take a look at Gary Newstad's Web page: http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/wing/e_sta86.jpg He's using terminal Strips in the Wings in several places. I don't know where he is getting them, but I'm sure an e-mail to him will solve the mystery. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root > > Dave - are what you call 'terminal strips' things you can push fastons onto? > I cant find them in aeroelectric catalogue. Have you seen them there? If > not, where? Thanks, Steve. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jul 01, 2002
In checking for Touch Up Paint in Cans on the matronics site, I found a reference to Cardinal Industrial Finishes back on April 17,2000. ( http://www.cardinalpaint.com/ ) They make the powder coat Van's uses (Cardinal Gray 230) as well as cans of matching paint (T009GR230). I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some general information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the inside cockpit area as well. Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint > > > I don't know the part number off hand, but it has been mentioned in this > newsgroup before. Maybe a search will find it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
> I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to > Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some general > information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the inside > cockpit area as well. I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle can will hold up? Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jul 01, 2002
I have found several references in the Matronics Archives on using Cardinal's Spray Can Paint with excellent results. Message: #71887 Date: May 19, 2000 From: Ken Balch Subject: Cardinal paint info Message: #71889 Date: May 19, 2000 From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: Cardinal paint info Based on this, I'm going to go ahead and plan on using the cans of Cardinal Paint, although, my "interior decorator" has advised me the color needs to be "tan" rather than "gray". Dave 90347 Finishing Kit I'm going to ---- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint > > > > I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to > > Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some general > > information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the inside > > cockpit area as well. > > I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle can > will hold up? > > > Mark Schrimmer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02
Date: Jul 01, 2002
Here's how I see it: Pro's 1. Lighter Weight (no "extra lead" on the Left Elevator Counterweight) 2. Better electrical connections (no flexing wires, everything is in the fuselage) 3. Better Weight Distribution (weight of Servo is further forward in the Fuselage) 4. Easy conversion (both Manual & Servo System) Con's: 1. Additional Cost ($61) 2. Additional Parts (Cable & clevises) 3. Flexible Cable (rather than solid Clevis/Pushrod) 4. Custom Parts (Cable & Clevises) 5. Harder to reach for inspection and servicing (must remove Empennage Fairing) All things considered, I'm going to install the standard Servo System, with the option to install the GretzAero System later. Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com> Subject: RV9-List: RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02 > > Has anyone installed the GretzAero "Alternate Mounting" kit for the electric > elevator trim? Thoughts? Opinions? Does it affect functionality? > > > Thanks, > > Matthew > N523RV > Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Roberts" <bonanza36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Wanted: 9(A) Quickbuild kit
Date: Jul 01, 2002
I would like to buy your 9/9A quickbuild kit outright or swap my September '02 RV7(A) quickbuild delivery position for your RV9(A) delivery position. I have completed the tail for the 7 but the rudder will need to be replaced with the new design. John Roberts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
I mostly use AMP FlexiStrip terminal strips. You can get these from ACS. They come in long flexible strips of individual pairs. You cut them off after however many terminals you need and then cut a rigid base piece that they slide into. They're good quality, but they don't come with #6 flat washers or lockers, so you have to buy those separately. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 01, 2002
One of the reasons for using a connector at the wing root harness is to assure a quick and clean departure (i.e. spark-free) of a wing in the event of an unhappy landing. This is why Van designed the notched forward wing mount too. Another reason would be for transportation should you ever need major repairs or perhaps your local field is now a quiet TFR. Naaa that never happens! I used a flat six waterproof connector (of automotive type), although this is one point where a good quality cannon plug makes sense. There's nothing flight-critical in the wings, so worrying about connector reliability here is not a big deal. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 02, 2002
I wonder which is better -- Terminal Strips or Plugs? Terminal Strips are secure, but harder to connect the wires to after the wing is attached. Plugs are quick and easy, but need to be secured so they don't flop around. Terminal Strips can be expanded if additional wiring is needed in the future. Plugs are waterproof and corrosion proof. Terminal can carry large amounts of current (Pitot Heater @ <10 amp) Plugs can carry large amounts of current too. Terminal Strips can be easily inspected Plugs are harder to inspect Terminal Strips can be come loose Pugs can also become loose Other ideas and/or opinions? Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
You can buy acryllic/enamel in the same color as Van's powder coated parts from Cardinal in South El Monte, California. The paint color Van's uses is Cardinal Gray GR230 and their office number is 1-626-444-9274. You have to specify the percentage of gloss. I used high gloss ( 90% gloss). The rattle cans sell for $4.80/can and requires a 6 can minimum. UPS charges a Hazmat fee on top of shipping. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
From what I have heard it will scratch, but works fairly well. For those that I've converted over to the AFS primer system (ya I know, water based stuff will never work, I can hear it now....) The AFS "Smoke Grey" 2 part polyurathane top coat is a perfect match to Vans powercoat. I just finished painting my interior with it and it looks great. It's fairly light when seen in large amounts, but gives it a nice clean look. Just not quite as bright as Gary's bright white! - Andy ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> >I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle can >will hold up? > >Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Cardinal Paint
I sent an e-mail to Ken Balch asking how Cardinal Paint has worked for him, now that his RV is flying. Here is his reply. Mark Schrimmer _______________________________ > Hi Ken, > > Over on the RV-9A list we're discussing Cardinal Paint for interior use. > I was hoping you could give me some follow-up information to > report to the 9A guys. > > 1. If you had to do it again, would you use the Cardinal Paint? I would use Cardinal, but I'd have them make up something more durable than the acrylic enamel I used. Perhaps some urethane-based paint. I ordered the enamel because it was available in spray cans and I was trying to avoid having to purchase an HVLP setup. Not to mention having to mix the paint, do the clean up, etc. for every painting session. Not to mention having to purchase a fresh air breathing system and build a proper, ventilated paint booth. So I went with the spray cans... :-) > 2. Did you finally decide to put it on the bare metal or put it over the > zinc chromate? After shooting a couple of test pieces, I elected to apply the Cardinal paint over bare metal. It wound up WAY too soft when applied over the chromate. You could just about rub it off with your thumb; no scratching required. > 3. Has the stuff held up OK to wear and tear? Fairly well, though it does scratch easily even when fully cured. As I said, I'd probably get Cardinal to match the color in a more durable paint the next time around and just accept the pain-in-the-butt stuff (paint gun, breathing system, paint booth, setup, cleanup, etc.) as the cost of a better result. > 4. Any helpful hints you can pass on? If you get the enamel that I got, let your painted parts sit in a well-ventilated area for a couple of days after spraying before doing much work with or around them. It gets more durable (relatively speaking) after it's had a chance to cure a bit. Generally speaking, if you can't smell it anymore, it's sat undisturbed for long enough. > Thanks for your help. De nada... Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Best Regards, Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Paint toughness (was cardinal paint)
One more thing I forgot... My AFS poly, once cured for 24 hours has been very tough. I am working on the floor boards all night long laying my wrenches and tools on them and there are no scratches. Of course that's due to 2 part poly do doubt. But it's a bit more trouble to spray than a rattel can that's for sure. - Andy 3. Has the stuff held up OK to wear and tear? Fairly well, though it does scratch easily even when fully cured. As I said, I'd probably get Cardinal to match the color in a more durable paint the next time around and just accept the pain-in-the-butt stuff (paint gun, breathing system, paint booth, setup, cleanup, etc.) as the cost of a better result. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Cowl attachment
I just talked to Bruce at Van's regarding the Cowling attachments. The Cowling Attach Detail of DWG 45 shows AN257-P3 hinge (which takes a 0.090" pin) holding the top and bottom cowls together. All the rest of the hinges use 1/8" pins, but bruce says to use 0.090" pins in the top of the cowl where it attaches to the firewall, or you can't get the pins all the way in. I pointed out that sections B-B and R-R call for 0.020" spacers whereas Detail F calls for 0.032" spacer. He said I would have to look at the parts to try to figure this one out. He also suggested that I consider using 0.062 plate for the bottom cowling-firewall attachment with screws, nutplates and large diameter washers. This is instead of the hinge as the eyelets have a tendency to break off over time. Using screws does not look as good, so he does not recommend this change where it shows. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Pitot tube at wing root
Date: Jul 02, 2002
Dave - what I think I want to do is somthing almost the same as the terminal strip but with fastons. But I cant find such a product though it must exist. Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson Subject: Re: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root I wonder which is better -- Terminal Strips or Plugs? Terminal Strips are secure, but harder to connect the wires to after the wing is attached. Plugs are quick and easy, but need to be secured so they don't flop around. Terminal Strips can be expanded if additional wiring is needed in the future. Plugs are waterproof and corrosion proof. Terminal can carry large amounts of current (Pitot Heater @ <10 amp) Plugs can carry large amounts of current too. Terminal Strips can be easily inspected Plugs are harder to inspect Terminal Strips can be come loose Pugs can also become loose Other ideas and/or opinions? Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl attachment
Date: Jul 02, 2002
>...instead of the hinge as the eyelets have a tendency to > break off over time. Must be a Lycoming vibration thing! ; ) Thanks for posting this. I stared at sheet 45 for a long time and still didn't fully grasp how the hinges fit or which size went where. Thus far, this has been the worst of the drawings. I am interesting in knowing if any hinge is left-over, and if so, how much? I need a short section for something else. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
Date: Jul 02, 2002
Hey Andy........ AFS works great just don't use it with a turbine HVLP ( unless you cool the air). I called the people in Montana and got excellent help. I then went to Harbor Freight and bought their $50.00 gun. I wasted about a third of the two part primer I was using, at 184.00 per gallon that adds up!! Thanks again, Gene N557RV res. waiting on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
Dear Listers, I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at Matronics. These new lists include: KRNet: krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series Cub: cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub RV10: rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's! Europa: europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare! To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is: http://www.matronics.com/subscibe Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [With Good URL This Time!] Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
[Typo in the subscribe page URL last time - SORRY! -Matt] Dear Listers, I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at Matronics. These new lists include: KRNet: krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series Cub: cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub RV10: rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's! Europa: europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare! To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 06, 2002
Subject: REAR SPAR ASSY.
I'M ASSEMBLING THE REAR SPAR: SHOULD I DIMPLE THE TOP FLANGE OF THE REAR SPAR, ADJACENT THE REAR SPAR DOUBLERS (W-907D AND E) BEFORE I RIVET THE DOUBLERS TO THE SPAR WEBBING? THE DRAWINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS DON'T TELL MUCH HERE. ALSO ARE TORQUE VALUES THE SAME FOR LOCKNUTS AS FOR NUTS WITH LOCKWASHERS? CAN I USE THE LOCKNUTS ONLY ONCE OR IS A SECOND OR EVEN A THIRD TIME STILL SAFE? I"VE BEEN TOSSING THEM OUT AFTER ONE USE. THANKS DAVID MORGAN #90079 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: REAR SPAR ASSY.
Date: Jul 06, 2002
I didn't have any problem getting my dimpler dies into this space after installing the doublers. The only place I found was tight was the inboard end of the rear spar and the instruction tell you which holes you should dimple ahead of time. I use the same torque values for locknuts as well as nuts with lockwashers. (Another practice is to add the "locknut torque" to the total torque to compensate for the friction.) The EAA web site says you can re-use locknuts as long as you can't tighten them by hand. I have been putting a stack of washer under the nuts on bolts I need to set temporarily. When I'm ready to torque them down preeminently, I remove the extra washers. So far I have only had to re-use a few locknuts a couple of times. Dave Nicholson 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: <KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com> Subject: RV9-List: REAR SPAR ASSY. > > I'M ASSEMBLING THE REAR SPAR: SHOULD I DIMPLE THE TOP FLANGE > OF THE REAR SPAR, ADJACENT THE REAR SPAR DOUBLERS (W-907D AND E) BEFORE I > RIVET THE DOUBLERS TO THE SPAR WEBBING? THE DRAWINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS DON'T > TELL MUCH HERE. > ALSO ARE TORQUE VALUES THE SAME FOR LOCKNUTS AS FOR NUTS WITH > LOCKWASHERS? CAN I USE THE LOCKNUTS ONLY ONCE OR IS A SECOND OR EVEN A > THIRD TIME STILL SAFE? I"VE BEEN TOSSING THEM OUT AFTER ONE USE. > > THANKS DAVID MORGAN #90079 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 07, 2002
Subject: [ Patty Gillies ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Patty Gillies Subject: Fuel Selector Plate (labeling) http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gillies-patty@sc.edu.07.07.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Anto-rotation bracket
Date: Jul 08, 2002
Curious about what I might have done wrong. I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I measure everything now the holes may be a little tight in from the plans although we're talking just a few thousanths here. Anyway, I foolishly rushed in on one tank and drilled the holes to mount the bracket on the access plate. As I was looking at how I would rivet the bracket to the plate I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90 degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket prior to riveting and the rivets are too close to the elbow to get a squeezer, rivet set, or anything I have in. I pondered the thing for about an hour and decided I would just go and build a wider one so I could spread out the holes. Near as I can tell the bracket is only designed one inch wide due to the tanks that have the center hole in the access plate for the fuel float. With the capactive sender units that hole isn't there and there is no need to have such a narrow bracket. Am I missing something here. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings Into the Black Death- just like frosting a cake 1968 Mustang 302 convertible ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Clearance?
Date: Jul 08, 2002
I just installed the elevators to the stabilizer. I set the rod end bearings at 13/16" as per the plans. The right elevator would swing ok but there was 1/8" clearance between the aft edge of the elevator skin and the counterbalance skin. This tapers down to almost nothing at the forward edge of the elev. and the C/B skin. The left is much worse and at 13/16" there is no gap at the forward edge between the C/B skin and the elev. skin, the aft distance is about 3/32". I tried moving the O/B rod end bearing to 7/8" ( the max as per the plans) and the clearance gets a little better but now the rolled edge of the skin wants to rub on rivets that attach the ribs to the aft spar of the stab. at the inboard end! What is going on? Has anyone else had this problem and what was there solution? Gene N557RV res. Wings Aug 5th. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com>
Subject: Anto-rotation bracket
Date: Jul 09, 2002
Curt, I just went thru that last month. Instead of following directions, after I drilled the hole for the fitting, I cut out the top of the bracket so that it looked like a "U". This way I could rivet the bracket to the plate, and then install the plumbing. The anti-rotation feature still functions, but it is a lot easier to install -- I hope my explaination is understandable, I wish I could include a sketch. Ken Anderson working on wings in Seattle From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> Subject: RV9-List: Anto-rotation bracket Curious about what I might have done wrong. I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I .. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: Clearance?
Gene, I had a similar problem with mine. The key question is, do you have your fiberglass tips riveted on yet? I found that I had adjusted everything while building, however when I put the tips on it pulled them out of alingment just a touch and I had a clearance problem on one side. I first got everything riveted and stable, then used the rod ends to adjust what I could, then started at it with the file to create the gap I needed. I took a bit off both the elevator and the stab side. It turns out that mine was heavy anyways and I had to file the lead down along with the edge. After a bit of filing it swings nicely now. I don't think there's any magic, just make it work! - Andy Karmy RV9A - Seattle WA Wiring & Panel cutting ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:11:25 -0700 > >I just installed the elevators to the stabilizer. I set the rod end >bearings at 13/16" as per the plans. The right elevator would swing ok >but there was 1/8" clearance between the aft edge of the elevator skin >and the counterbalance skin. This tapers down to almost nothing at the >forward edge of the elev. and the C/B skin. The left is much worse and >at 13/16" there is no gap at the forward edge between the C/B skin and >the elev. skin, the aft distance is about 3/32". > >I tried moving the O/B rod end bearing to 7/8" ( the max as per the >plans) and the clearance gets a little better but now the rolled edge of >the skin wants to rub on rivets that attach the ribs to the aft spar of >the stab. at the inboard end! > >What is going on? Has anyone else had this problem and what was there >solution? > >Gene N557RV res. Wings Aug 5th. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: albert.gardner(at)att.net
Subject: Kevin Shannon
Date: Jul 10, 2002
I'm trying to contact Kevin Shannon by phone to arrange to meet at Arlington Thur or Friday. I'm at 928-941-1901 (wifes cell phone) or 541-926-4734 (friends homes in Albany). Thanks. I'm planning on buying radios and gyros there. Albert Gardner RV-9A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Anto-rotation bracket
Date: Jul 09, 2002
Several people mentioned making the bracket a "U" shape to avoid the riveting issue. What a simple and great idea. I am going to do that. This allows me to salvage the parts I already made. I wish I had thought of that. I stared at those darn parts for over an hour and it never dawned on me to cut out the top. Hell I was even thinking the top piece over the hole was getting too thin for edge clearance. I've got to stop being a lurker and get into this group a little more before I really screw something up. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings 1968 Mustang 302 convertible ----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> Subject: RV9-List: Anto-rotation bracket > > Curious about what I might have done wrong. > I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to > the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for > the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I > measure everything now the holes may be a little tight in from the plans > although we're talking just a few thousanths here. Anyway, I foolishly > rushed in on one tank and drilled the holes to mount the bracket on the > access plate. As I was looking at how I would rivet the bracket to the > plate I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90 > degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket prior to > riveting and the rivets are too close to the elbow to get a squeezer, > rivet set, or anything I have in. I pondered the thing for about an hour > and decided I would just go and build a wider one so I could spread out > the holes. Near as I can tell the bracket is only designed one inch wide > due to the tanks that have the center hole in the access plate for the > fuel float. With the capactive sender units that hole isn't there and > there is no need to have such a narrow bracket. > Am I missing something here. > > Curt Hoffman > RV-9A wings > Into the Black Death- just like frosting a cake > 1968 Mustang 302 convertible > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Krhill325(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 09, 2002
Subject: anti-rotation bracket
Curt Hoffman asked: "Curious about what I might have done wrong. I built the anti-rotation bracket ... I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90 degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket..." Curt, I also wondered about that problem, and how to remove the fuel pickup if I ever needed to. I decided to cut the bracket hole to the edge of the bracket, forming a "U" . It keeps the fuel pickup from turning, and allows for pickup replacement if necessary. Also, the bracket can be riveted into place, and then the pickup installed. Kenneth Hill Indianapolis completing wings, fuselage awaits..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Clearance?
Date: Jul 09, 2002
Sam , I used an AN 3-5 bolt that I had ground a point on the end. With the hex head of the bolt next to one side of the ball it is very easy to get it square and then measure at the point on the other side with a scale. With this method I feel the measurements are fairly accurate. I had the tips clecoed on so I pulled the tips off and now I had the proper clearance between the counterbalance skin and the stab. Some how when drilling the tips to the C/B skin I was able to pull or push and create the problem. I will try to re-fit the tips by pulling the relief away from the skin a little and re-drilling the holes and epoxy a small washer over the "correct" hole as a backup for the pop rivet. Thanks to all for the suggestions Gene N557RV res. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 10, 2002
Subject: Re: anti-rotation bracket
Kurt, I think I have some pix of the one I did. I will look them up and e-mail to you. If I recall think I positioned my pneumatic squeezer on one and used my c-frame tool and had someone hold the plate level, I then used a 3# sledge on a flat head (long) die. I must also tell you that I had to make a few due to mistakes. Pic coming at you-Bob in Arkansas, SELLING WINGS! 6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 10, 2002
Subject: Re: anti-rotation bracket
If you look good you can see the rivet hole on right-there is another hidden on left by the pick-up tube. The second pic is with proseal. Contact me off list if you need more. I think I have some scrap brackets I could send to you, but it just takes a little head scratchin-you can do it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 10, 2002
Subject: Re: anti-rotation bracket
BTW, if you look closely at mine, I designed it for the obvious reason (to keep your pick tube from turning when you tighten up for the outside after tank is closed-ya can't tell then, get it)? But, I also made mine in that the nut on the inside would never vibrate its way loose. (keeps inside tank pick up from... ) which probably would never happen. Well, be safe, air crashes hurt-trust me-thats if your alive to feel the pain. Good luck and again contact me off list for more or telephone help. Bob in Arkansas TAIL/WINGS FOR SALE-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil" <Phil(at)camsnet.com>
Subject: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
Date: Jul 12, 2002
I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some pre-assembly. I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a few nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the fifth one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference with the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be riveted in assembly with W-909-L. Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I modify the rib? Best regards, Phil Johnston Phil(at)camsnet.com RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
Date: Jul 12, 2002
You will have to modify the rib to fit onto the spar. This is one of those cases, actually every case is one of those cases, where you will want to review the manual before doing anything. In the leading edge section it describes what ribs need to be modified to clear the rivets or spar stiffeners, etc. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings 1968 Mustang 302 convertible ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil" <Phil(at)camsnet.com> Subject: RV9-List: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly > > I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some pre-assembly. > I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a few > nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the fifth > one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference with > the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be > riveted in assembly with W-909-L. > > Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I modify > the rib? > > Best regards, > > Phil Johnston > Phil(at)camsnet.com > > RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
Date: Jul 12, 2002
07/12/2002 05:36:54 PM, Serialize complete at 07/12/2002 05:36:54 PM Phill, Look at the plans VERY close. There are both L and R ribs in each wing. There should be two ribs that have a cut out to clear the rivet and doubler. As I recall, I drilled holes in the flange to let the rivets poke through. DO NOT drill out the wing spar rivets. If the ribs do not line up with the holes in the skin, then check the rib. It probably goes on the other wing. This is especially true in the wing walk section. I do not remember how many times I had to swap ribs around until they all lined up but they will. Regards Larry Perryman N194DL Final parts. "Phil" Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com 07/12/2002 09:02 AM Please respond to rv9-list To: cc: Subject: RV9-List: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some pre-assembly. I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a few nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the fifth one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference with the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be riveted in assembly with W-909-L. Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I modify the rib? Best regards, Phil Johnston Phil(at)camsnet.com RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2002
Subject: [ Bob Paulovich ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Paulovich Subject: Fatal RV Crash http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bobpaulo@aol.com.07.12.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
Along the same track, one of our members talked to Vans and got the blessing to swap 2 or 3 wing ribs from one side of the plane to the other. This made them easier to rivet. You know the ones you have to buck by sticking your hand in the holes that some of us find too small to get our hands into. I had already done mine. But you might want to check into it. Barry Pote RV9a fuselage/finish kit P ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Fiberglass elevator tips
Date: Jul 12, 2002
I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on. I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the consensus? Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com 90300 finishing up on the empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Fiberglass elevator tips
Date: Jul 13, 2002
Yes I have the same problem. I have done quite a bit of work on mine to make them slimmer. One comment, I don't think you should end up with just resin there. I put extra layers of cloth on the inside before I sanded the outside. Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TG Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on. I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the consensus? Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com 90300 finishing up on the empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question
Date: Jul 13, 2002
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com>
I see the measurements to make the optional lightening holes on the Vertical Stabilizer doubler. I have two questions about this... 1) What is the disadvantage to putting in the lightening holes? I would obviously want to cut weight wherever I can. 2) Do the same holes get placed on the spar also? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated!! -Ted- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 13, 2002
Subject: Re: RV Fatal Crash
"I was a passenger that was seriously hurt but did survive and expect to make a mostly complete recovery". Bob Paulovich, Bryant Arkansas Bob: Is there anything from the crash you can relate to us that could help us in our future flying? Hope you have a speedy full recovery from any injuries you received. Best Regards, Doug Lomheim RV-9 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 13, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass elevator tips
I used balsa wood fillers for the open ends of the tips.. I made them so that they fit just right when the tip was clamped down to the same size as the elevator. I then used epoxy to glue them in place. After the glue set up I made a curved sanding block to same radius as the elevator arm and sanded the balsa to shape. I got a very close fit with no interferance. I then sealed the balsa with blasa sealer dope. Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question
Date: Jul 13, 2002
For what it is worth I cut out the lightening holes, what was cut out weighed 3 oz. I just used a hole saw of the proper size. Do not cut holes in the spar. Gene N557RV res. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass elevator tips
Date: Jul 13, 2002
I took a sanding disk to them and got a very nice fit for the right elevator tip. However, when I did the same on the left elevator I went right through the fiberglass and into the open space within. Thus a warning, fill the trailing edge of the Elevator Tips before you sand them down. Fill them with some form of fiberglass and epoxy. I would do all the adjusting prior to riveting the tips to the elevator. I used Super Fil to cover up the damaged area and may then cover the damaged area with fiberglass for added strength. By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items holding the counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws came down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer! Mike Duiven N711ED ----- Original Message ----- From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips > > I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on. > I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the > tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume > that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control > surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you > just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the > last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the > consensus? > > Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com > 90300 finishing up on the empennage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question
Date: Jul 14, 2002
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com>
Thanks Gene! I checked in the archive section and most people seemed to agree that it was worth the extra work. Didn't seem to be any down side other than the extra time to complete. Thanks Again. -Ted- -----Original Message----- From: Gene [mailto:gene(at)nvaircraft.com] Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question For what it is worth I cut out the lightening holes, what was cut out weighed 3 oz. I just used a hole saw of the proper size. Do not cut holes in the spar. Gene N557RV res. = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert scott" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass elevator tips
Date: Jul 14, 2002
As for the counter balance arm weights, I used proseal to seal the weights in. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips ................ By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items holding the > counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in > flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the > trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws came > down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer! > > Mike Duiven > N711ED > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com> > To: "List" > Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips > > > > > > I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips > on. > > I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of > the > > tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume > > that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control > > surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did > you > > just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of > the > > last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the > > consensus? > > > > Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com > > 90300 finishing up on the empennage > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Arlington
Date: Jul 14, 2002
I went to Arlington Thursday and looked at a bunch of RV's. One detail that makes a plane look really good is a nice glass fairing at the wing root instead of the rubber molding the kit provides. Some of the 6A's even worked the upper gear leg fairing into the wing root fairing. But - get this for extra cool - a 6 from Fort Collins, CO had steps that retracted when he closed his slider. Albert Gardner 9-0132 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: Fiberglass elevator tips (Counter balance weights)
Date: Jul 15, 2002
I also used proseal for the counterbalance weights in the rudder and elevators. Easy to do and you can be sure that the bollts aren't going to go anywhere! Todd Houg Fuselage bulkheads - N194TH (reserved) -----Original Message----- From: Mike Duiven [mailto:emduiven(at)chaffee.net] Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips I took a sanding disk to them and got a very nice fit for the right elevator tip. However, when I did the same on the left elevator I went right through the fiberglass and into the open space within. Thus a warning, fill the trailing edge of the Elevator Tips before you sand them down. Fill them with some form of fiberglass and epoxy. I would do all the adjusting prior to riveting the tips to the elevator. I used Super Fil to cover up the damaged area and may then cover the damaged area with fiberglass for added strength. By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items holding the counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws came down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer! Mike Duiven N711ED ----- Original Message ----- From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips > > I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on. > I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the > tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume > that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control > surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you > just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the > last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the > consensus? > > Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com > 90300 finishing up on the empennage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "robert" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com>
Subject: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip made by the guy in Torance? Robert Scott N472RV Reserved Do not acrhive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: More RV9A pictures
Ok all you guys (and gals). I took a bunch of pictures at Arlington this last week and yes there were 3 new RV9A's that flew in! Don Wilson had a nice Red & White RV9A from Oregon Peter Harrison had a nice white & checkered striped RV9A from BC Roy Murphy had a nice white & blue RV9A from Washington All of the pictures can be found at: http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/rv%20pictures/rv9_pictures.htm All of them have a larger version if you click on the smaller one. - Andy Karmy RV9A - Seattle WA Wiring... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Antennas
on 7/15/02 11:02 AM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote: > > Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC > Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip made by > the guy in Torance? Hi Robert I plan to use the Bob Archer wing tip antenna for GS/LOC/VOR, but a regular antenna on the fuselage for comm. Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "robert" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com>
Subject: Re: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
Have you or has anyone else had any first hand experiance with Bob Archers antennas? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Antennas > > on 7/15/02 11:02 AM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote: > > > > > Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC > > Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip made by > > the guy in Torance? > > Hi Robert > > I plan to use the Bob Archer wing tip antenna for GS/LOC/VOR, but a regular > antenna on the fuselage for comm. > > Mark Schrimmer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2002
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Antennas
on 7/15/02 2:08 PM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote: > > Have you or has anyone else had any first hand experiance with Bob Archers > antennas? > Quite a few RVs have successfully used Bob's antennas. If you check the regular RV list archives, you'll find a lot of info. Mark Schrimmer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2002
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: RV things I learned at Arlington
Ok, I don't know that there's much "value" in these ramblings, however here are some of the things that I gleaned while talking to other RVers & looking at finished planes at Arlington this year. How to get the fuel lines through the gear towers? Have you ever thought of unbolting them from the spar carry through to route the lines through the holes, then rebolt them back on with the lines inside? I sure hadn't. How about the addition of drain holes around the formers in the rear fuselage cone. Don Wilson had problems with etch and water collecting in there while doing his final painting. Where to place the rudder pedals for aft? Vans has all of theirs in the middle of the 3 locations with about 2 inch links (estimated) and everyone in the company can fly them with that setup. The RV9A prototype was sporting the brand new (installed Friday) Truetrack Digitrack wing leveler. Rumor was that it was hunting a bit and not holding as well as the Navaid in the 7, but it still needed more testing to know how it would work out. Firewall penitrations. Most people were using the basic gromets called out in the plans with proseal to seal the openings. A few like the very expensive ball & sockets that Cleveland and others sell. Another tidbit from Don, flying up with a friend in his RV4, both had 150HP 0320's, at the same RPM with Sen FP metal props the RV9A was 5mph faster! side by side... YA HOO.... :) Everyone's counterbalance clearances looked nice and tight with nice straight lines. Hum got to work on that some more. From Peter, he said that he shimed the front windscreen on top of the roll bar instead of the rear part on the slider frame. That way the shims were covered by the glass that you lay over the rollbar and windscreen. In looking at Don's he used small washers between the canopy slider frame and the plexi where it was pop riveted on the frame. Both looked fine. Man those tails are tall. You could look across the RV corral of 30-40 RV's and the 9A's just stood out as head and shoulders above the rest (they are the best aren't they?)! Definatly a cool stance while taxing as they are almost tipped just a bit forward compared to the 6A's which were tail low in taxi. That's about it of what I remember. Maby others can post their findings... - Andy Karmy RV9A - Seattle WA - Wiring... http://www.karmy.com/rv9a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
I bought a pair of Archers; was shocked to find out how trivial they are for the price, but then again, what's an antenna but a piece of wire cut to a specific length? Since then, I have chosen not to use the comm antenna. These need to be vertically oriented as much as possible inside the wingtip. In the 9 tips, this amounts to, not much... Since I needed a second comm antenna anyway, I bought a Comant and liked it so much I bought another. The Archer will be a flea market item. This also eliminated about three pounds of coax running all the way to the wingtip. I also don't like the idea of having to add foam or other such support in the wingtip, nor running an antenna so close to the strobe. I am still thinking of using the NAV antenna, although nobody has been able to answer my question about whether it is suitable as a GS/LOC antenna too? My Apollo SL30 has just a single NAV antenna input so no splitters are required, but is the antenna suitable? I would prefer to lose this antenna too, but the options seem to be a Vee on the VS which I did not plan for. In short, you can probably make the Archers work OK, but I'm not impressed. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
Gary.....where are you mounting the com? I plan to use a 45 degree whip as a belly mount. We saw a lot of them at Arlington, but you usually have to get down and look under to find them. The ones on the top of the turtledeck don't look good to me. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
I'm mounting them (45 degree whips) side by side under the left & right seats just behind the spar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: DWG 31
On looking at DWG 31, Zone B3, I did not understand what F-777G was for, so I called Tom at Van's. Tom did not know either so he asked Phil. Phil said the purpose is to connect the battery box (F-877AP) to the corner angle on the back side of the firewall. This is not shown on the isometric, but the rightmost hole in F-777G is to be riveted to that angle. Also, the callouts for AS3-063x3/4x3/4 on the angle supports should probably read AA6-063x3/4x3/4. It looks to me that the 1 3/32" hole spacing shown on the fab instructions for F-777G and F-777H do not quite match the prepunched hole pattern on the back of the battery box. It also seems that moving the box to the right a little would allow it to be riveted to the other angle behind it. This means violating the 5/32" spacing in Zone G1. (Note that Rev 3 changes the 4 11/32" to 8 11/16", Zone F1.) In addition, my Quickbuild kit does not have enough AA6-063x3/4x3/4 left to finish the job, nor are there now enough AN4-4A bolts. Tom is sending me some more Leland Starting to wire while waiting for the long-lead finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: Air compressors - How big?
Date: Jul 16, 2002
I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of how big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal components. Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much? Matthew RV-9A Empennage (N523RV Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca>
Subject: Air compressors - How big?
Date: Jul 16, 2002
I have a 30 gal. oilless compressor, and it's more than adequate in handing all of my tools except the die grinders. Any amount of running time with those tools, and the compressor runs just about continuously. I CANNOT recommend oilless over conventional compressors, though -- mine is absolutely deafening when it runs. I would spend the extra to get a conventional compressor, next time 'round, but I would still buy 30 gals. HTW and FWIW. Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Air compressors - How big?
Date: Jul 16, 2002
I started with a little 1.5 HP Oil less compressor, but the noise was too much for me and I wanted to be able to use my die grinder quite a bit, so I went "whole hog" and got a 7 HP 80 gal unit that operates at 175 psi. Now it doesn't run very often and the two stage pump is pretty quite. Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com> Subject: RV9-List: Air compressors - How big? > > I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of how > big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal components. > Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much? > > Matthew > RV-9A Empennage > (N523RV Reserved) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Fiberglass elevator tips
Date: Jul 15, 2002
I would be interested to know if people are putting any sort of filler on the tip (under the ally) before riveting the tips on. I wondered if a very thin skim of epoxy / microballoons would be a good way of making the interface tight? Steve 90360 N Yorks, UK -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Brandvold Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips I used balsa wood fillers for the open ends of the tips.. I made them so that they fit just right when the tip was clamped down to the same size as the elevator. I then used epoxy to glue them in place. After the glue set up I made a curved sanding block to same radius as the elevator arm and sanded the balsa to shape. I got a very close fit with no interferance. I then sealed the balsa with blasa sealer dope. Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Antennas
Date: Jul 15, 2002
Why are folk not mounting the com antenna on the canopy like the VANS demonstrator. It's the lightest cheapest lowest drag solution. What is the downside? Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 16, 2002
From: Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Plastic Film on Canopy
We just received our finish kit. ;-) It will be a few weeks before we start on the canopy and it is very hot in New Mexico. It is out of the sun but will the heat make the protective plastic film a permanent addition to the Plexiglas? If so, we can move it into the house or remove the film and protect it with something else. Any one have an answer/suggestion? Thanks Jim Brandvold N209RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com>
Subject: lycoming for sale
Date: Jul 16, 2002
I have a 0 time SMH Lycoming 0-290-D for sale that I was going to put in my RV-9A but I'm going for more hp's :). So before I put it up for sale in Trade-a-Plane I want to offer it to you. It is a nice package, the log book I have for it only starts at the last rebuild so I have no prior history, but as it is the log states: Engine disassemled cleaned, cylinders overhauled by Aero Engines Atlanta GA, Lycoming 0-320 crankshaft with new main & rod bearings installed, all steel parts magnafluxed, aluminum parts zygloed. Overhalled cylinders with new fitted pistons & rings installed, polished camshaft & lifters installed. Engine completly assembled in accordance with Lycoming specs. Engine oiled internally for storage. Also before I bought the engine the seller had the # 1 cylinder removed and had the crankshaft, camshaft, and connecting rods checked for corrosion and none was found. All accsesories are included ,carb,mag's,altinator,ring gear,etc. asking $5000.00 plus shipping it's in a nice shipping crate. I can send pictures of it on request or you can see it on Long Island, NY. Reply off list to klwski1(at)pouch.com Thanks Ken RV-9A Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Air compressors - How big?
Date: Jul 16, 2002
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com>
Matthew, You won't need much compressor for spraying the parts but die grinders and high speed drills take quite a bit of air. I started with a 25 gal oil free unit, but my wife made me ditch it. The sound was deafening, and it is a high pitch whine!! I would suggest staying away from the oil free models. I also decided with the new compressor to go with the 135 psi 65 gallon Husky model from home depot. This thing only runs once or twice a night for a short time to supply a couple of hour's worth of building time. -Ted Strand- RV-9A Empennage (Rudder) (N371N Reserved) -----Original Message----- From: Matthew Brandes [mailto:mbrandes(at)irr.com] Subject: RV9-List: Air compressors - How big? I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of how big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal components. Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much? Matthew RV-9A Empennage (N523RV Reserved) = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 16, 2002
Subject: Re: lycoming for sale
From: vcordero(at)juno.com
Ken, Come and get your 3 "Finishing Kit" videos at the house. I finally got the Navaid autopilot , but I want to test it before I install it on the wing. How did you finally hook up yours ? Subaru engine goes on next month. Are you available?? Met 3 more local guys buiding RV's (RV's 6,7,8) at John Biggers house. Give me a buzz Vic, I wish my garage was bigger, Cordero 331-4612 516-971-0811 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Film on Canopy
Date: Jul 16, 2002
Most likely the plastic wrap will simply fall off if left in the elements. It seems to depend on static cling. Mine is falling off despite a controlled environment, or because of it. You might not want to let the canopy sit in direct hot sun anyway since it doesn't yet have the benefit of a metal frame. I don't know if it will droop, but it might. Best to keep it shaded. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Air compressors - How big?
Date: Jul 17, 2002
Matthew: Unless you plan to use the compressor for the final paint job, the 5hp, 30 gal unit will be plenty. MAKE CERTAIN THAT IT IS THE OIL BATH TYPE. The oiless type would drive you crazy. It comes on often building an RV. If you use a die grinder a lot you will get delays. However, you can buy a separate air only tank for added capacity. Sell it before you fly. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 25% Complete > I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of how > big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal components. > Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Front Wheel Hub Bolt Torque & Tire Pressure
Date: Jul 17, 2002
Does anyone know the proper torque for the three front wheel Hub bolts and the correct tire pressure? (Main Gear seems to be 90 in-lb & 25#) Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV Story videos
Date: Jul 19, 2002
Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's? Dave Nicholson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos > > To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's new > version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list : Matt > Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are. > > Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid January. > Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van was > unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time I > spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more weeks and > for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I estimate > another week or two before we actually have them to ship out. > > Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they become > available from Vans. > > Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway; we are > accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of > Builder's Bookstore > > Andy > Builder's Bookstore > http://buildersbooks.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
Date: Jul 21, 2002
Has anyone had a problem of hitting "hard spots" while drilling the Cotter Pin Holes in the Main Axles? Dave 90347 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
Date: Jul 21, 2002
Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits! The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit. You want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit. Round Two! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
Date: Jul 21, 2002
Good point Gary... My bit must not be too bad since I was able to drill 7 out of 8 holes (2 pairs of holes per leg, 30 apart). It looks like I'll have to get something harder for the last one. (I got about half-way through the wall before it started to slide.) Know of any good sources? Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles > > > Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits! > The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little > detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand > new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be > through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for > its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit. You > want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit. > > Round Two! > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 22, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Batteries
Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and the Odyssey in the -9. Leland Messing with the Map Box ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Batteries
Date: Jul 22, 2002
Leland, You mentioned reason #1, it's 7 lbs lighter. The other reason is that the battery box is much nicer and easier to construct. The Odessy is about half the size of the Concord. And, it's sealed, wont leak, low maintenance. On the other hand, the Odessy is $160. . . Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Batteries > > Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde > battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the > Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and > the Odyssey in the -9. > Leland > Messing with the Map Box > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Batteries
Date: Jul 22, 2002
Leand I orginally used the 24AH Concord RG and it died within 9 months. I then switched to the 16 AH Odyssey PC625 and in my opinion it is much better due to its lighter weight, smaller size and lower cost. It may not have the reserve capacity of an 25AH but its cranking power is as great if not greater. There are several suitable the PC680, PC625, etc. depending on your needs check the specs on them at: http://www.odysseyfactory.com/default.htm Also the prices of Odyssey batteries (same model) vary greatly. I have seen the PC625 go for as cheap as $75 and has high as $160 - so do shop around on the internet. Also you do not need the PC628MJ (or what ever size you get). The MJ stands for Metal Jacket (intended for Motorcycle application) and cost a bit more. http://www.acdelcobatteries.com/odyssey.cfm http://odysseyselect.com/Order.htm http://www.batterymart.com/ (Look Under Motorcycles) Hope this helps Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV9-List: Batteries > > Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde > battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the > Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and > the Odyssey in the -9. > Leland > Messing with the Map Box > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
Date: Jul 22, 2002
Cobalt (from Menards) was the "magic bullet", along with my trusty old (45 years) hand cranked breast drill (slow and steady). Now for the Front Gear Leg Mounting Hole (when Jan gets me my engine in September). Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles > > > Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits! > The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little > detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand > new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be > through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for > its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit. You > want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit. > > Round Two! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Batteries
Date: Jul 22, 2002
Or try www.odysseydirect.com for online purchase. I paid $89. Look for the models with the brass stud connections rather than socket and screw. PC625 is good. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 22, 2002
What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying determine just what I really need on this A/C. Gene N557RV (res) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 22, 2002
It's a "bell & whistle" and I bought it, along with the electric elevator trim, and steps. None of them are "necessary", but each one makes it a little easier (especially the steps since I'm not getting any younger). The 9A electric aileron trim is just a small servo motor, that shifts spring pressure from one side of the joystick system to the other. I understand the manual aileron trim uses the same spring system, but with a knob to turn by hand in place of the servo. I'll be using a Ray Allen Stick Grip with pushbutton switches for the pilot along with panel mounted rocker switches for the co-pilot. (Not the cheapest way to go, but handy) Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim > > What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one > for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just > another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and > managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying > determine just what I really need on this A/C. > > Gene N557RV (res) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 2002
Subject: Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS
From: Howimiller(at)aol.com Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 15:55:21 EDT Subject: Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS LRCohn(at)HHLAW.COM, rcohn(at)furniturerow.com, evan(at)iddwebs.com, SDuffordmd(at)aol.com, chrisdunkin(at)hotmail.com, SJG7989(at)aol.com, mgrillo(at)lmana.com, Kathryn.Karns(at)healthonecares.com, IamMJL(at)aol.com, re-frank(at)juno.com, PARCATOL(at)aol.com, Gram2929(at)aol.com, hmmiller(at)4dvision.net, Sbeefbarron(at)aol.com, Golfslave(at)aol.com, KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com, RPM39(at)netzero.net, jnab(at)worldnet.att.net, rnaiman(at)universitybldg.com, Rnishman(at)dhha.org, joffenkrantz(at)kayescholer.com, parkhill(at)doctormail.com, LRKB1(at)aol.com, segall5(at)msn.com, aclsilv(at)ecentral.com, sstark(at)swscpas.com From: WToltz(at)aol.com Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:13:48 EDT Subject: Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS Jpells(at)pellsins.com, SJCohen(at)aol.com, srosenbaum(at)irwl.com, ToltzY(at)aol.com From: "Marvin Stone" <marvin.stone(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:12:21 -0700 VACATIONING PRIESTS Two priests decided to go to Hawaii on vacation. They determined to make this a real vacation by not wearing anything that would identify them as clergy. As soon as the plane landed, they headed for a store and bought some really outrageous shorts, shirts, sandals, sun- glasses, etc. The next morning, they went to the beach, dressed in their "tourist" garb. They were sitting on beach chairs, enjoying a drink, the sun- shine and the scenery when a "drop dead gorgeous" blonde in a tiny bikini came walking straight towards them. They couldn't help but stare. As the blonde passed them, she smiled and said, "Good morning, Father,""Good morning Father," nodding and addressing each of them individually, then passed on by. They were both stunned. How in the world did she know they were priests? The next day, they went back to the store, bought even more outrageous outfits. These were so loud, you could hear them before you even saw them. Once again, they settled on the beach in their chairs to enjoy the sunshine etc. After a while, the same gorgeous blonde, wearing a string bikini this time, came walking toward them. Again, she approached them and greeted them individually: "Good morning, Father," "Good morning, Father," and started to walk away. One of the priests couldn't stand it and said, "Just a minute, young lady." "Yes?" she replied. "We are priests, and proud of it, but I have to know, how in the world did you know we are priests?" "Father, it's me, Sister Helen." VACATIONING PRIESTS Two priests decided to go to Hawaii on vacation. They determined to make this a real vacation by not wearing anything that would identify them as clergy. As soon as the plane landed, they headed for a store and bought some really outrageous shorts, shirts, sandals, sun- glasses, etc. The next morning, they went to the beach, dressed in their "tourist" garb. They were sitting on beach chairs, enjoying a drink, the sun- shine and the scenery when a "drop dead gorgeous"=20blonde in a tiny bikini came walking straight towards them. They couldn't help but stare. As the blonde passed them, she smiled and said, "Good morning, Father,""Good morning Father," nodding and addressing each of them individually, then passed on by. They were both stunned. How in the world did she know they were priests? The next day, they went back to the store, bought even more outrageous outfits. These were so loud, you could hear them before you even saw them. Once again, they settled=20on the beach in their chairs to enjoy the sunshine etc. After a while, the same gorgeous blonde, wearing a string=20bikini this time, came walking toward them. Again, she approached them and greeted them individually: "Good morning, Father," "Good morning, Father," and started to walk away. One of the priests couldn't stand it and said, "Just a minute, young lady." "Yes?" she replied. "We are priests, and proud of it, but I have to know, how in the world did you know we are priests?" "Father, it's me, Sister Helen." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 23, 2002
07/23/2002 03:40:58 PM, Serialize complete at 07/23/2002 03:40:58 PM Dave, Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can backfeed through the other switch. Regards Larry Perryman Dave Nicholson 07/22/2002 10:54 PM Please respond to rv9-list To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim It's a "bell & whistle" and I bought it, along with the electric elevator trim, and steps. None of them are "necessary", but each one makes it a little easier (especially the steps since I'm not getting any younger). The 9A electric aileron trim is just a small servo motor, that shifts spring pressure from one side of the joystick system to the other. I understand the manual aileron trim uses the same spring system, but with a knob to turn by hand in place of the servo. I'll be using a Ray Allen Stick Grip with pushbutton switches for the pilot along with panel mounted rocker switches for the co-pilot. (Not the cheapest way to go, but handy) Dave 90347 Finishing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim > > What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one > for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just > another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and > managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying > determine just what I really need on this A/C. > > Gene N557RV (res) = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 23, 2002
Yes, in fact, Ray Allen sent them with my order, along with a schematic. It looks like it is the same set-up Van's is using in their RV-9A. Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "PERRYMAN Larry" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim > > > Dave, > > Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to > prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem > and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me > about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can > backfeed through the other switch. > > Regards > Larry Perryman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Batteries
Thank you for your helpful responses. I just ordered an Odyssey PC625 with brass studs for $73.95 from Battery Specialists at 1-800-952-6462. They are not charging for shipping. Their web address is: http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html Leland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 23, 2002
07/23/2002 07:54:00 PM, Serialize complete at 07/23/2002 07:54:00 PM Dave, Glad to hear that Ray Allen is now putting out the schematic. When I did it, I had to piece together three different schematics and try to match up wiring. Regards Larry Perryman 90288 "Dave Nicholson" Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com 07/23/2002 09:11 AM Please respond to rv9-list To: cc: Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim Yes, in fact, Ray Allen sent them with my order, along with a schematic. It looks like it is the same set-up Van's is using in their RV-9A. Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "PERRYMAN Larry" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim > > > Dave, > > Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to > prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem > and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me > about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can > backfeed through the other switch. > > Regards > Larry Perryman > > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 2002
Subject: Landing Lights
Quick question for any already flying their "9A"...if you have only a single landing light have you found it provides enought light for both taxi and approach to landing? I am about to install a second light but if it isn't really necessary I'll skip the extra steps involved and press on...thanks for the inputs. Doug Lomheim (90116) OK City, OK area (left top done!, right top getting close) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 2002
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
Doug, We installed two landing lights for maximum visibility. We want to be seen! One light would probably be enough to see the runway. I have had many people comment that I look like a lear jet on final with those bright lights out at the wing tips. They only draw about 3.8 amps each. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 24, 2002
Gene - with apologies to Dave N the electric aileron trim is about the most inane thing I have ever heard of. I can see absolutely no point. Re trimming is very occasional in roll. The manual one seems well worth having since you should be able to trim the wings level so it tracks straight hands off in still air. The mechanism is so simple why not. If you are thinking of a wing leveller I suspect the trim is necessary in order not to have a fight between the leveller and the aircraft. The elevator is a more difficult choice. I went the electric route mostly because a) the manual system is heavy, and b) I was told that because of the 180 degree bend in the manual trim cable it can be irritatingly 'sticky'. I don't know! Good luck, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying determine just what I really need on this A/C. Gene N557RV (res) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 24, 2002
I agree with Steve. Electric aileron trim looks plain silly to me. It places a servo right next to your butt, where your hand can easily reach the lighter, simpler manual trim. .........apologies to Steve, but the guys at Van's who fly all the planes all say the electric pitch trim is a pain. Everyone struggles with the control being too touchy, and you fiddle back and forth with the switch to get it where you want it. The manual pitch trim is smooth, positive, easy to use, and does not distract you from flying. Van's says they weigh close to the same as the electric, all things considered. Even with a tight bend in the cable, mine shows no sticky tendencies in the garage. Reports say the same after they are flying. Some people think the manual knob looks funky. It does seem larger than need be. This may be why the factory demonstrators have electric, and the Van's guys prefer manual. As with so many questions of this nature, just search the RV list or RV-6 list archives, and you will see that it has all been hashed over many times. Many 6's have been flying for a long time, and much of that experience applies to the -7's and -9's. Just click on the "search engine" link at the bottom of any Matronics list message. You might also read the Q&A section of Doug Reeves Vans World Wide Wing, http://pluto.beseen.com/boardroom/k/49353 and look for the appropriate thread. There is also a section called "What I would do different nest time" by guys who have built and flown one or more RV's. Might as well take advantage of our collective experience. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim
Date: Jul 25, 2002
Ah, yes, primer, painting, small wheel location, etc. But all this previous hashing doesn't mean that the question won't keep coming up. Again. And again. BTW, when I called the Scottsdale, AZ FSDO to get the 8050-1 Registration Form (the one you can't copy or download) they said they were out of money for postage and couldn't send it. I called Oklahoma City and they sent me 2 copies of all necessary forms. (There is another 9A under construction here in downtown Yuma) Today, I'm starting to wire this sleek little rocket! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on firewall forward ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> > As with so many questions of this nature, just search the RV list or > RV-6 list archives, and you will see that it has all been hashed over > many times. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Batteries
Date: Jul 25, 2002
I ordered the Odyssey PCC680 battery from Battery Specialists at 1-800-952-6462 for $98.54 (includes shipping). This is the battery that Van's list for $160. Their web address is: http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved) Working on firewall forward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Landing Lights
Date: Jul 25, 2002
Paul - did you use the VANS kit or something else? Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Landing Lights << File: Re_ RV9-List_ Landing Lights.txt >> --> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird(at)aol.com Doug, We installed two landing lights for maximum visibility. We want to be seen! One light would probably be enough to see the runway. I have had many people comment that I look like a lear jet on final with those bright lights out at the wing tips. They only draw about 3.8 amps each. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2002
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
Subject: Re: More on Batteries
I ordered the Odyssey PC625 rather than the PC680 because it is two pounds lighter. As pointed out by Ed Anderson, the PC625 lacks a metal jacket but otherwise specs are the same. http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm Leland Starting to wire using Van's kit "I ordered the Odyssey PCC680 battery from Battery Specialists at 1-800-952-6462 for $98.54 (includes shipping). This is the battery that Van's list for $160. Their web address is: http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
Date: Jul 26, 2002
I installed two of Van's Light Kits for redundancy as well a visibility (both to see and to be seen). Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: <DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com> Subject: RV9-List: Landing Lights > > Quick question for any already flying their "9A"...if you have only a single > landing light have you found it provides enought light for both taxi and > approach to landing? I am about to install a second light but if it isn't > really necessary I'll skip the extra steps involved and press on...thanks for > the inputs. > > Doug Lomheim (90116) > OK City, OK area (left top done!, right top getting close) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Batteries
As I said in a post last week, I got my PC625 for about $73, including shipping. Barry Pote RV9a finishing kit (and PUMPED UP FROM OSHKOSH '02) Dale Larsen wrote: > > > Leland, > > You mentioned reason #1, it's 7 lbs lighter. The other reason is that the > battery box is much nicer and easier to construct. The Odessy is about half > the size of the Concord. And, it's sealed, wont leak, low maintenance. > > On the other hand, the Odessy is $160. . . > > Dale > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net> > To: "RV9 List" > Subject: RV9-List: Batteries > > > > > Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde > > battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the > > Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and > > the Odyssey in the -9. > > Leland > > Messing with the Map Box > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net>
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
Subject: BMA and Dynon EFIS
Date: Jul 29, 2002
I just got back from OSH where I spent a good deal of time looking over the Blue Mountain EFIS light and the Dynon. In my opinion the Dynon wins hands down. Here's my summary: Cost - Dynon comes in about $1500-$1800 cheaper, maybe a little less if you buy Dynons external magnetometer and battery backup. Display - I preferred the display on the Dynon, the text appeared easier to read and had a higher contrast. The Dynon was displayed inside, but the reps were happy to unplug the unit and bring it outside in direct sunlight operating off battery backup. Unlike others that have expressed concern about sunlight visibility, I found the dsplay to be readable in all but direct reflected sunlight (or nearly direct). This meant the unit had to be tipped back so that the display reflected the sunlight directly like a mirror. There is virtually zero chance of this in a cockpit with the display mounted below eye level. Both BMA and Dynon claimed to have the brightest display available. BMA was in a tent outside, so the ambient light was greater, but they were not setup to move the display into direct sunlight, but it looked as if it would be comparable to the Dynon in terms of brightness. Honesty - Dynon will tell you up front that they underestimated delivery times and they have significant flight testing to complete prior to taking orders. However, they're not taking anybodies money until they have adequate flight time and can deliver. Dynon was very straight forward with they're current shortcomings and the plan to fix them. BMA will take your money and you won't know when you'll get your Beta unit to flight test for them! Physical - While I don't have actual weights for the units, the Dynon seemed to be significantly lighter, fits in a 3 1/8" instrument hole and is fully self contained. Although the display sizes were very close, the BMA was encased in a large square chassis and required an externally mounted powersupply unit. Recovery - The BMA unit will display "Re-Erect" message if the roll rate has been exceeded, then it is up to the user to fly straight and level, then push the button to re-erect the display. Currently the Dynon does not display an error when it's roll rate has been exceeded, but this was readily admitted as a short coming and is on their priority list to fix before releasing the units. The Dynon unit will also recover on it's own, but the current recovery time is on the order of a minute; this is also on the priority list to bring the recovery time down. Upgrades - The Dynon unit is software upgradeable ion the field via RS232 port. This includes operating software as well as customized user checklists. I believe the BMA is also field upgradeable, though I'm not sure about user checklist support. Dynon had about 20+ units on display that they referred to as the Beta units that would be installed for flight testing. Having heard mixed reviews on the BMA flight testing, I'm anxious to see what the Dynon beta testers find. Anybody signed up as a Beta tester for Dynon? Todd Houg RV9A - Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Nav-Com Antennas
Date: Jul 30, 2002
I'm thinking of installing two Com Radios and one Nav Radio. How many antennas will I need? Dave 90347 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: Nav-Com Antennas
Date: Jul 31, 2002
Three ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Nav-Com Antennas
Date: Jul 31, 2002
That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, bent whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on the Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker). Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > Three > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: Nav-Com Antennas
Date: Jul 31, 2002
That's right Dave. You can't share antennas between two transmitters (COMs). You could share a NAV antenna if you were going to have two NAV recievers. Just remember to leave as much space between the COM antennas as possible - side by side at the outer edges of the fuse near the wing roots or front to back with one under your feet/seat and the other under the baggage compartment (or further back). The NAV antenna location is your choice as long as it's horizontal. I prefer the wingtip NAV antennas myself but it's really up to you. It was good to meet you at Oshkosh, hopefully we'll see your plane there soon! Todd Houg N194TH - reserved www.toddhoug.com - My website is finally back after my domain registrar fixed my web forwarding! -----Original Message----- From: Dave Nicholson [SMTP:dnick2(at)insightbb.com] Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, bent whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on the Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker). Dave 90347 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > Three > > = = = = eJ8+IigDAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYAtAEAAAEAAAAQAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAASwAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAHJ2OS1saXN0QG1hdHJv bmljcy5jb20AU01UUABydjktbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAA AB4AAzABAAAAFwAAAHJ2OS1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20AAAMAFQwBAAAAAwD+DwYAAAAeAAEw AQAAABkAAAAncnY5LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbScAAAAAAgELMAEAAAAcAAAAU01UUDpSVjkt TElTVEBNQVRST05JQ1MuQ09NAAMAADkAAAAACwBAOgEAAAAeAPZfAQAAABcAAABydjktbGlzdEBt YXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAACAfdfAQAAAEsAAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDdAQ9UAgAAAABydjktbGlz dEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAFNNVFAAcnY5LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAwD9XwEAAAADAP9f AAAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAJpXgEEgAEAHwAAAFJFOiBSVjktTGlzdDogTmF2LUNvbSBBbnRl bm5hcwC+CQEFgAMADgAAANIHBwAfABYAMAAnAAMAbwEBIIADAA4AAADSBwcAHwAWACkAMgADAHMB AQmAAQAhAAAANjFEOTRCNzJDRUE0RDYxMUJCM0QwMEMwOTVFQzE3OUIAQwcBA5AGAOQJAAAhAAAA CwACAAEAAAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADAC4AAAAAAAMANgAAAAAAQAA5AOCoN1IO OcIBHgBwAAEAAAAfAAAAUkU6IFJWOS1MaXN0OiBOYXYtQ29tIEFudGVubmFzAAACAXEAAQAAABYA AAABwjkOUjByS9lipM4R1rs9AMCV7BebAAAeAB4MAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AHwwBAAAAFAAA AHRob3VnQGF0dGdsb2JhbC5uZXQAAwAGEEkoBg8DAAcQmAgAAB4ACBABAAAAZQAAAFRIQVRTUklH SFREQVZFWU9VQ0FOVFNIQVJFQU5URU5OQVNCRVRXRUVOVFdPVFJBTlNNSVRURVJTKENPTVMpWU9V Q09VTERTSEFSRUFOQVZBTlRFTk5BSUZZT1VXRVJFR09JTkcAAAAAAgEJEAEAAADDBgAAvwYAAEIN AABMWkZ1cYsR+D8ACgEDAfcCpAPjAgBjaMEKwHNldDAgBxMCg0MAUA7mcHJxMg/mfRMKgAjIIDsJ bzI1NUsCgAqBdgiQd2sLgGTaNAxgYwBQCwNjAEELYEBuZzEwMzMLpiAyVA9wdCcEIAUQZ2jBBUBE YXZlLgqiCoSlCoBZCGAgYwBwJwVAUnMPcWUgAHB0CfBuqmEEIGIPsHcJ4SAagMpvGtByAHFtaQJA BJABBCAoQ09NcykuZiAY0whgbGQZZgewQcpWGcYgBpAgeRjhGpDpGaFnbwuAZxrQGwAPcO8X4BrT HZIJcGMIkBfgD5DxGAtKdXMFQAlwB4AG0LMEkB9ibGUfshoxbRUQtmgZYAqwYxmwGmdoGbCnHAEZ yBoxcG8EEGkCYLUZsC0ZYGkBABpQeSaErxcQJJMIYBuhIAmAZweRtm8eYCSiZiHgGbBuIvCfIpEk sQPwH0EDYG90KHGvBcADUQIwH2JiANBrKdHnJKAnwClQIHUU0CKBHoHzKqEJ4HQvD6AnYQBwHPA/ J5MkoQXALDQkoitQZ2fXLxAZsAWgbQqxdAeAKvH+KCqSCHAuEytSHEAYGhbwzxmwHZoJABkQdGkC IB5A/wQgLJMPYB8gI/EaMQkAH0HfGjEbgBcxNEAFEHoCIQdAfRxQSSXQCXAs4CmIM2Bwqx2KI1F5 D6BsHmBiJ+DXNUQJcAdAbCbwdTeQH3HrHoEYC0kFQHcaMR8QBHBfH2IHgA+wHnMnYU8ZcGvpJfBo LDWRcAEQHNA5wf0akCc5sBlgCeAshAtRLAHLLhIZsHMqQG4hMWsEcBUc8EgIYGcYFE4xObg0VEgm YQlwD6ByF+DrCzEYMndDUC4fcEEQNECtQWAuL4EmYU0+EmIAkLsZ8DOiZguAOaMrU2EBgHMigTiA IGQDcQuAIGFn5wQAGyEqoWl4CYBGgkSxfyjwBbA7gAsgHzFAKwr0bPhpMzYBQBWgAUARMCpQZQWQ dBB0MTYmYEwST+8XYUVyBdAHkHMvQUwTGBYPSyRK8QsTSyZpLTE0xjQBQEpwMTgwAUAM0KtPs0iA RgNhOgyDYg/QbxfCB7A0YDRAbD/gA6BbwFNNVFA6ZAMAK3CcMkALgACQF4FiYkQSvl0YFUiABmAC MFFHVwmA4SlQc2RheT1wIdA5wWwzMT1wAdAwEWAWIDryNBFgUE1Ud0DwUUdCsOw5LUpwIfBAAMAb IAIgjzRgIPAvgVR4dWJqS1FRUUdSZToH8FZZQExrR2FcME4X0C0IUERAQX8Z5U2/TspKdAu2GCNM ED7/XEc8MU0TJdIZ8BzwJuBcMGIiUdwiIDxTLy+BPp8xbCdhP+AsMTSxaWsnsb8sAUihKCAA0COg XTIoLmj+RikRC2AoUD1wJpo9cBpg+wIwQvVoN4EHQDTiK6MkovoiCABkY+BnciSiGyMl4P0sQik9 cC2CZzYkolzxMDF7JIMYFFYEkDNgGRADIFP/AZEDEDXQBJA9cB9wN5Ai4b9JAigjPXAzQR6wayBz ZwAvbdAYCxfCGBQ5FjA0N/9glkwRPPBMfUwEGBRRA2LgfkcKwCbwB8FiYmPhD1BzoEBqbGMuKVB0 ZVX/WHFj8FkvWjNlVVsWXA9dH/9JiwqAYRBg/2IOeA95HoOWDxbhCdGDrH6vCl8tPb+HD4gfiS+K P4pghocgjA+3JnAyIoAnRUbhAyBGBbD+dURBi3oW8EUyjoMzsW1y7z/gCXEoIAIwaQlwOcEkoP8D YEFga/QIUAIwBRA48TNx/yhyi3qAZSJiIPCMEBjRPlL/KVAgwT6DK1AaECKBcdAqc/8AcCbwLgRI oVp1i9QokUkA+yBxLWFkIMEzYACQH0FvZP8F0FnGjmQg9obvnP+eD58fyYstISEHsEVXoRGLep5C A2CCYBmwfUQgVSkh+yyTSGJiooMikxRyJJMLYG8Z8ICIm3mMEVA0QB9xU/8ZgqMhp4Ml0KcyJZEt kUVg/yLgBCArpC4TlDubn6v/rQ8/rh+f35PZfMClYhzwSW73l7IzU4t9UGJRTOajIXpvA1o5i9dV Ti9TVULAU0NSSUJFoyEXkOB0cDovL0NStJstIP9bIAT0sf+nHbc/uEeoZBmCv4t9ony7b7hHpCS0 Qi+0Bu+LfQZgCsAjkUUWAAuAfNG/v4+4V8NDi30HEA9gaRfg/nO/Qr9fuCnDUsdCi32AY+5TPbAg kEVgY8QPuDjBz/2MFE+p18dzy++4ViIwjjH/tELJ/pJ7y8+4OAWgkpiLff+ah8eE0++4Vqr/2q/b v9zPL68/3p9++xHxAOEQAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAAADAIAQ/////0AABzAg/ZxeDTnCAUAACDAg /ZxeDTnCAQsAAIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAOFAAAAAAAAAwACgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAA AEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAADAAWACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAABShQAAtw0AAAMACYAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAGFAAAAAAAAHgATgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEAAAAEAAAA OC4wAAsAF4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwAYgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYA AAAAEYUAAAAAAAADABqACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAYhQAAAAAAAB4AKYAIIAYAAAAAAMAA AAAAAABGAAAAADaFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeACqACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA3hQAAAQAA AAEAAAAAAAAAHgArgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAOIUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4APQABAAAA BQAAAFJFOiAAAAAAAwANNP03AABN3A== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/31/02
Date: Aug 01, 2002
Good article on antennas and the placement of them in AOPA Pilot, August 2002 issue. >From: RV9-List Digest Server <rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com> >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV9-List Digest List >Subject: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/31/02 >Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 23:51:01 -0700 > >* > RV9-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Wed 07/31/02: 3 > > >From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > >Three > > >From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > >That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, bent >whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on the >Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker). > >Dave >90347 >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > > > > > Three > > > > > > >From: Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> >Subject: RE: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > >That's right Dave. > >You can't share antennas between two transmitters (COMs). You could >share a NAV antenna if you were going to have two NAV recievers. > >Just remember to leave as much space between the COM antennas as >possible - side by side at the outer edges of the fuse near the wing >roots or front to back with one under your feet/seat and the other under >the baggage compartment (or further back). > >The NAV antenna location is your choice as long as it's horizontal. I >prefer the wingtip NAV antennas myself but it's really up to you. > >It was good to meet you at Oshkosh, hopefully we'll see your plane there >soon! > >Todd Houg >N194TH - reserved >www.toddhoug.com - My website is finally back after my domain registrar >fixed my web forwarding! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Dave Nicholson [SMTP:dnick2(at)insightbb.com] >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > >That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, >bent >whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on >the >Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker). > >Dave >90347 >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas > > > > > > Three > > http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2002
From: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a(at)deru.com>
Subject: F-711C taper
Can anyone tell me why the F-711C bars need to be tapered as shown on Dwg. 21 for tri-gear? That's a lot of metal to cut/grind off, and I don't see what parts would interfere if it were left straight. Maybe I'm just getting lazy, but it was quite a chore tapering the F-605C parts and I am not keen on going through that again without a band saw. Thanks. - Tim. RV-9a fuse bulkheads ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: F-711C taper
Date: Aug 02, 2002
To reduce weight. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Coldenhoff" <rv9a(at)deru.com> Subject: RV9-List: F-711C taper > > Can anyone tell me why the F-711C bars > need to be tapered as shown on Dwg. 21 > for tri-gear? > > That's a lot of metal to cut/grind off, and > I don't see what parts would interfere if it > were left straight. Maybe I'm just getting > lazy, but it was quite a chore tapering the > F-605C parts and I am not keen on going through > that again without a band saw. > > Thanks. > - Tim. > RV-9a fuse bulkheads > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2002
From: Kevin Hanson <rv8tor(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV Story videos
I got mine 3-4 months ago. Kevin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV Story videos Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's? Dave Nicholson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos > > To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's new > version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list : Matt > Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are. > > Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid January. > Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van was > unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time I > spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more weeks and > for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I estimate > another week or two before we actually have them to ship out. > > Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they become > available from Vans. > > Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway; we are > accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of > Builder's Bookstore > > Andy > Builder's Bookstore > http://buildersbooks.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
Date: Aug 03, 2002
I've just started cleco'ng my rudder skins to the spar and ribs. Part of the process is to cleco the R-916 trailing edge as well. Up to this point everything has lined up dead on, however the top 12 holes of the R-916 wedge don't line up with the holes in the skin. If I force a cleco to make it line up I get a big pillow between the cleco's. As I said, all the other holes on the trailing edge line up perfect, except those last 12. Should I call Van's and get a replacement? Should I just drill them out? I don't like that idea, as I'll end up with mishaped holes in the wedge. Matthew RV-9A (Empennage) N523RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV Story videos
Date: Aug 03, 2002
I received mine as well some time ago. Curt Hoffman RV-9A wings 1968 Mustang 302 convertible ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Hanson" <rv8tor(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV9-List: RV Story videos > > I got mine 3-4 months ago. > > Kevin > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV Story videos > > > Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's? > > Dave Nicholson > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> > To: > Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos > > > > > > > To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's new > > version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list : > Matt > > Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are. > > > > Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid > January. > > Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van > was > > unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time I > > spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more weeks > and > > for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I > estimate > > another week or two before we actually have them to ship out. > > > > Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they > become > > available from Vans. > > > > Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway; we > are > > accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of > > Builder's Bookstore > > > > Andy > > Builder's Bookstore > > http://buildersbooks.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
Date: Aug 03, 2002
Matthew, The problem with the wedge may be due to the way they were drilled. Something may have shifted during drilling, thus the misalignment. The rudder must be clamped securely and weighted down to a flat surface before drilling. Start drilling in the middle of the rudder and work out toward the top/bottom. Drill into the table surface as you go, and cleco every other hole to the table as you drill. This will keep things from shifting even slightly as you drill. If you have the wing kit, read ahead on how the ailerons and flaps are made. This will give you an idea on how to make straighter and better trailing edges. I would order another hunk of wedge from Van's and try again. Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com> Subject: RV9-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment > > I've just started cleco'ng my rudder skins to the spar and ribs. > Part of the process is to cleco the R-916 trailing edge as well. Up > to this point everything has lined up dead on, however the top 12 > holes of the R-916 wedge don't line up with the holes in the skin. > If I force a cleco to make it line up I get a big pillow between the > cleco's. > > As I said, all the other holes on the trailing edge line up perfect, > except those last 12. > > Should I call Van's and get a replacement? Should I just drill them > out? I don't like that idea, as I'll end up with mishaped holes in > the wedge. > > Matthew > RV-9A (Empennage) > N523RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Edcarris(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
I'm sure you tried it both ways. I'd get a new one. Mine lind up perfect. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com
Date: Aug 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
Be careful about weighting down the TE of the rudder. That will produce a twist. The TE and the edge of the rudder spar are not on the same plane. Some get away with weighting it down, some get oil-canning. First try letting it float as suggested in the plans. That may solve your problem (if you have been trying to lay the spar flat on a table and also pushing the TE flat on the table). Once you get to the elevators, the TE and edge of the spar are in plane or parallel. You can put the elevator spar and TE flat on a table. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2002
From: John <jleclercq(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-9 In Wisconsin
Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin? If so please contact me. Thank you, John LeClercq ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2002
From: Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV-9 In Wisconsin
John I live in Appleton and am working on the finishing Kit all wiring is done and the engine is hung. Cowling and canopy to go. I know a guy in oshkosh that has a flying 9A slider also. If you want to hook up contact off line. bill(at)billrounds.com Bill Rounds N159RV John wrote: > >Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin? >If so please contact me. > >Thank you, > >John LeClercq > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
Date: Aug 04, 2002
John, You're right about the spar and the TE not on the same plane. If you try to force the centerline of the spar to pe parallel with the table, you will have problems! :-) I apologise for the misunderstanding, my post was not clear. Although the rudder spar is smaller at the top than the bottom, either side of the rudder is flat and will lay on a flat surface (If you let the bottom end hang over the edge of the table). The important part is that both trailing edges are aligned parallel before drilling, and they stay in alignment while drilling. If it moves even slightly during drilling, you will get the symptoms that Matthew describes; some line up, some don't. Dale > Be careful about weighting down the TE of the rudder. That will produce a > twist. The TE and the edge of the rudder spar are not on the same plane. > Some get away with weighting it down, some get oil-canning. First try > letting it float as suggested in the plans. That may solve your problem (if > you have been trying to lay the spar flat on a table and also pushing the TE > flat on the table). Once you get to the elevators, the TE and edge of the > spar are in plane or parallel. You can put the elevator spar and TE flat on > a table. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2002
From: John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: RV-9 In Wisconsin
To John LeClerq and Bill Rounds: I tried to send you the following message off line, but for some strange reason both addresses bounced. There are at least two more of us building 9A's in Wisconsin. Gerrold Elling is building a standard kit. He has finished the empenage and is working on the wings. I have a QB kit inventoried but not yet started. ( I'm just finishing up a Zenith 601 HDS ). I know - I know...but it did seem a good idea at the time. I will fly it until I finish the RV. Gerry lives in Ladysmith and I live in Sheldon. We both have hangars at RCX. John Carillon John wrote: > > Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin? > If so please contact me. > > Thank you, > > John LeClercq > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-9 In Wisconsin
Date: Aug 04, 2002
John, I'm building a 9A slider. Firewall forward is mostly complete. I'm starting to wire the instrument panel. I fired up the EIS engine monitor today for the first time. I cranked the engine with the spark plugs removed and developed 48psi oil pressure after 15 seconds. The Skytec PM starter turns the engine over very fast! Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin? If so please contact me. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nightingale, Roger" <rnightingale(at)tycoint.com>
Subject: RV 9 PROP
Date: Aug 05, 2002
We are in the process of selecting a fixed pitch prop for our RV 9A. Do any of you lucky 9 pilots flying have any suggestions, comments or better yet numbers from your prop selection. We have been investigating Aymar DeMuth, Catto, and Sensenich, would appreciate any comments. Thanks, Roger & Mike Nightingale Orion, Illinois N194WE (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2002
From: John <jleclercq(at)charter.net>
Subject: Thanks Much
Thanks for the quick response to my query about RV-9s in Wisconsin. I will get in touch with you fellows off this list and make plans to visit if possible. Later, John LeClercq ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 05, 2002
Subject: Re: RV 9 PROP
Roger and Mike, Sorry I can't help you, we used a hartzell constant speed. Works great!!!! Takeoff and climb performance is really amazing! Paul flying RV-9A


May 14, 2002 - August 05, 2002

RV9-Archive.digest.vol-af