RV9-Archive.digest.vol-af
May 14, 2002 - August 05, 2002
One other thing about the brake lines and fuel lines. Vans calls for
the fuel line to be on bottom and the brake line to be above when it
goes through the brackets by the fuel valve. I found that putting
them in reversed of the plans worked a lot better. This gives a larger
radius to work the 3/8 inch line through. The 1/4 inch brake line is no
problem. I found spring benders to work great for working the lines
through the gear leg bracket.
Regards
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full marking at 14
gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ?
Anyone know the theory behide this ?
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Demo Ride in RV-9 |
Just got back from Vans and did get a demo ride. Tom Greene took me. He was
very pleasant and was fun to go with.
I fly a C-172 now and what a difference. Very smooth to fly. Tom could fly it
hands off using the manual elevator trim. The only problem I can see in
flying it is doing a stall. My instructor in the 172 drummed into my head to
push the yoke forward and add full power. With the 9 if you do that you will
tip it over. When you stall it you feel the buffeting but just need to
release (not push) the stick and it will immediately fly again. For me this
will take some practice and thinking as not to cram the stick forward.
Can hardly wait to get one finished. I am working on the wings now.
Carl in Michigan.....still drooling and grinning.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: Demo Ride in RV-9 |
Hey Carl,
Does the 9 make the metalic shaking / buffeting sound from the tail like the 9A
does during the stall? When I flew in the 9A with Scott Risen it was very noticible
even with the head phones on. It sounds like metal oil canning.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>Just got back from Vans and did get a demo ride. Tom Greene took me.
>tip it over. When you stall it you feel the buffeting but just need to
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Hauck" <ross(at)rossreels.com> |
I didn't weigh the steps, but they are amazingly light and well made
(all thin-wall 4130 steel, even the airfoil sections!). I had to grind
away the weld between the flange and the mount tube for the bottom 45
degrees fore and aft, to allow bending the flange to conform to the
skin. Then TIG reweld. A lot of work, but a perfect fit with no
daylight anywhere.
Ross/RV-7A
_______
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Steps
Does anyone have these steps not installed so they could be weighed. I
remember them being very heavy. As to the instructions I thought they
were very good, the inboard position of the left side had to be moved
aft a bit to get the flange to sit flush against the skin. I considered
bending the flanges but decided moving the end would be the best way to
go.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Somewhere in the info that comes with the gages, it tells you that this
is due to the dihedral in the wings. There is only 14 gallons left when
the float just starts to move downward. The other 4 gallons are above
the top of the root section of the tank.
This way the gage is accurate in the range of the float travel.
Gary
I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full marking
at 14
gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ?
Anyone know the theory behide this ?
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Each step weighs 1.75 pounds.
Leland
Plumbing in Pleasanton
Does anyone have these steps not installed so they could be weighed. I
remember them being very heavy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is after
I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is it
because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the gauges
are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders after
all....
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
> Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They
> traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for
> increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so
> much room on the face of that guage.
>
> In practice, it works very well.
>
> - In RV-9A@y..., "votuc.com" wrote:
> > Sorry, I don't buy it. Are you saying after buying two senders, two
> new
> > gauge's, adjusting the float level for proper top to bottom swing,
> the best
> > I can expect for accuracy with full tanks is something between 28
> and 36
> > gallons ? I flew a J-3 Cub the other day that had a wire with a
> cork stuck
> > to the bottom of it that had better resolution...
> >
> > Guy
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "rdoerr01" <rdoerr@k...>
> > To: <RV-9A@y...>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 7:09 PM
> > Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
> >
> >
> > > I believe it is because the float that gets installed in the tank
> > > won't move from the top most position of the sender until it's at
> > > about 14 gals.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In RV-9A@y..., "Guy Votuc" wrote:
> > > > I have the IE-VFL14 gauges for the RV-9 and noticed the full
> > > marking at 14
> > > > gallons. I thought the tanks held 18 ? Is this design intent ?
> > > > Anyone know the theory behide this ?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Guy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > RV-9A-unsubscribe@e...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
> FREE COLLEGE MONEY
> CLICK HERE to search
> 600,000 scholarships!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/DlIU9C/4m7CAA/Ey.GAA/SyTolB/TM
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Are you certain the capacitive senders (and the expensive gages that go
with them) will make a significant difference? No matter what senders
you use, they will read full when the fuel is at the top of the sender,
right? So, if you want them to read 95 % when you have used 5% of your
fuel, they need to be in the outboard section (highest part) of the
tank. Then they will read empty before the tank is empty, right?
Unless they run the entire length (spanwise) of the tank.......??
Read the archives. Lots of people who have opted for the capacitive
system have regretted it for one reason or another.
Gary
Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is
after
I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is
it
because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the
gauges
are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders
after
all....
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com>
To:
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
> Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They
> traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for
> increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so
> much room on the face of that guage.
>
> In practice, it works very well.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my
flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way, I leak
tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler cap. I
had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new O-ring
etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should be to
get a good seal.
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
> Are you certain the capacitive senders (and the expensive gages that go
> with them) will make a significant difference? No matter what senders
> you use, they will read full when the fuel is at the top of the sender,
> right? So, if you want them to read 95 % when you have used 5% of your
> fuel, they need to be in the outboard section (highest part) of the
> tank. Then they will read empty before the tank is empty, right?
> Unless they run the entire length (spanwise) of the tank.......??
>
>
> Read the archives. Lots of people who have opted for the capacitive
> system have regretted it for one reason or another.
>
> Gary
>
>
> Oh yea, that good ol "design intent" answer :>) I guess my problem is
> after
> I take off with full tanks, an hour later they will still say full. Is
> it
> because they are still above the 14 gal starting point or because the
> gauges
> are stuck up there ? I guess I'll get to use those Capacitive senders
> after
> all....
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kenrv6" <kenrv6(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
>
> > Buy it or don't...but this is what the Van's guys intended. They
> > traded the relatively unimportant upper end of the scale for
> > increased accuracy as the tanks get closer to empty. There's only so
> > much room on the face of that guage.
> >
> > In practice, it works very well.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
on 5/15/02 4:20 PM, Guy Votuc at guy(at)votuc.com wrote:
>
>By the way, I leak tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the
filler cap.
Is everybody putting Proseal over the shop heads of the rivets that hold the
baffle to the skin?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
Tanks riveted, almost ready for testing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
I did, but it probably wasn't necessary. The baffle plate gets a lot
of goop on it, so the rearward facing flanges are pretty well sealed.
The blind rivets on the mounting brackets definitely want a blob
of sealer over them, even though they are closed ended rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Sounds good, Guy. I guess that means you have already installed the
capacitive type senders, if you have one tank done. The tanks are a
nice part to get behind you.
I'm sure you thought of this, but a little film of oil on the O-rings
(big one and the one around the shaft) of the caps will help get a good
seal for testing.
One nice thing about a custom-built experimental plane......if you don't
like something, you can try to find a "better way."
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Guy Votuc
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my
flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way,
I leak
tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler
cap. I
had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new
O-ring
etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should
be to
get a good seal.
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Have any of you used the baffle kit that Van's sells for your 0-320?
How is the fit? I have read archives and older web sites that indicated
they fit very poorly and were difficult to install.
I'd like to know if they've improved this before I buy one.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I
may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely with
it. If I can just figure out what to sell next for a little extra cash (
10k ) :>) Anybody need a nice used Farm Tractor ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
> Sounds good, Guy. I guess that means you have already installed the
> capacitive type senders, if you have one tank done. The tanks are a
> nice part to get behind you.
>
> I'm sure you thought of this, but a little film of oil on the O-rings
> (big one and the one around the shaft) of the caps will help get a good
> seal for testing.
>
> One nice thing about a custom-built experimental plane......if you don't
> like something, you can try to find a "better way."
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Guy Votuc
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
>
> I get a headache thinking about it Gary. I'll go with both, time my
> flights, and keep watching the wings for sign's of leaks. By the way,
> I leak
> tested my first tank today, guess where it leaked ? Yep, the filler
> cap. I
> had already polished the neck of the filler tube, cleaned the new
> O-ring
> etc, etc. I ended up making the adjusting nut tighter than it should
> be to
> get a good seal.
>
> Guy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fly84878(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, guy(at)votuc.com
writes:
> Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I
> may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely with
> it.
Guy,
You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain system. I
was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by Van's.
Was I misled?
Roger Aspegren
80% done with wings
Denton, Ne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DellAngelo, Scott" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com> |
Subject: | Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit |
Hi,
I have been on the list for a while now just reading and absorbing. I've
been agonizing over whether to wait for the RV10 and have the two more seats
(along with increased cost to build and increased cost to fly) or build a
RV9A knowing that most of the time two of the 10 seats would be empty
anyways. I still waver back and forth but lately have been really wanting
to get started (and i'm kind of cheap). I figure when we have kid(s) in a
few years (i'm 26 now) I could always build the 4 seater down the road and
sell the 2 seater if that is really what I want then. Plus I figure one kid
can be rigged up in the baggage area in a car seat for a few years anyways?
I've got spousal approval so I am thinking that maybe around Oshkosh time I
will take the plunge. We live in Naperville, IL so any RVers that what to
give me a ride :), or want someone to help pound some rivets sometime, let
me know. I have no metal airplane knowledge, but have torn apart everything
there is to tear apart on cars just about, and am working on
recovering/restoring my uncle's Piper Tri-Pacer (so I know a little about
fabric ships).
Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets,
wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as
Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need
for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there any
must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and
get from the start?
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are
several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display can
be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the
digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive circuit
anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI gauge it
comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main advantage
to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect.
Guy,
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
> In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
guy(at)votuc.com
> writes:
>
>
> > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit. I
> > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely
with
> > it.
>
> Guy,
> You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain system.
I
> was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by
Van's.
> Was I misled?
> Roger Aspegren
> 80% done with wings
> Denton, Ne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit |
Scott:
Your statement -
> Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets,
> wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as
> Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need
> for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there
any
> must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and
> get from the start?
The Avery starter kit is well designed and well made. It will allow you to
build the tail by which time you will be up the learning curve far enough to
then add what you need when you need it. I have almost all Avery tools.
They are very good. Service is excellent. You will use everything (metal
working that is) in the basic RV kit. Several other suppliers are pretty
good as well. Cleveland, Brown, etc. You will get at least a 10% discount
buy buying in volume from one supplier. My rule is if it is something that
I am going to need often I buy it from Avery. If it is an occasional thing
you can buy something suitable a lot cheaper elsewhere. The exception is if
is has quality implications I buy from Avery. If I am doing something very
visible in the final product I will make certain that I have the edge by
using the best tools. You will not be able to predict all your tool needs
at project startup. You can spend a lot of money on expensive tools that
provide ease of use but do nothing to add quality to the final product.
Just get started, build up your knowledge base then determine your needs as
you go along. For your complete project you will probably invest a little
more then double the basic Avery Basic RV kit - - if you are very frugal ! !
! This does not include drill presses, painting stuff and any other
non-metal airplane tools
Happy building.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 15% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit |
I was at the same process a year ago and thought I really wanted a four
seater. I "tried" to buy the new Zenith 640 in kit form but at the time they
wanted to sell me the QB version instead saying they had to cause of matched
wings to fuse etc. I really liked the interior and gull wing doors but I
later found out it flew like a brick ( slow and heavy ) and was noisy
inside. It would have been a good IFR platform though. In any case it was to
much money up front. They since have made "kit' sections available to
promote selling it. Now that I have my license , my wife and kids aren't
interested anyway ( too scared of flying ). As for tools, I had a lot of old
bucking bars and drills but I purchased pretty much everything in the kit
from Avery, plus some.
They are a great company and have quality tools. I ended up getting
more dimpling dies and counter sink tools as I needed them. The one thing I
would NOT do without is a air operated dimpling tool, it's expensive but man
does it save time. Get the 1.5 in and 4 in yoke with it and be happy.
The rest you can get as you need ( you'll know when ).
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "DellAngelo, Scott" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Introduction and Avery 3X Tool Kit
>
> Hi,
>
> I have been on the list for a while now just reading and absorbing. I've
> been agonizing over whether to wait for the RV10 and have the two more
seats
> (along with increased cost to build and increased cost to fly) or build a
> RV9A knowing that most of the time two of the 10 seats would be empty
> anyways. I still waver back and forth but lately have been really wanting
> to get started (and i'm kind of cheap). I figure when we have kid(s) in a
> few years (i'm 26 now) I could always build the 4 seater down the road and
> sell the 2 seater if that is really what I want then. Plus I figure one
kid
> can be rigged up in the baggage area in a car seat for a few years
anyways?
> I've got spousal approval so I am thinking that maybe around Oshkosh time
I
> will take the plunge. We live in Naperville, IL so any RVers that what to
> give me a ride :), or want someone to help pound some rivets sometime, let
> me know. I have no metal airplane knowledge, but have torn apart
everything
> there is to tear apart on cars just about, and am working on
> recovering/restoring my uncle's Piper Tri-Pacer (so I know a little about
> fabric ships).
>
> Now onto the question. I have a decent amount of hand tools (sockets,
> wrenches, etc) but do not have any of the stuff in way of the kits such as
> Avery's has. Is this a good kit to buy as far as everything it has I need
> for a 9A, or should I piece a different "kit" together? Also are there
any
> must haves that this kit does not include that I should just go ahead and
> get from the start?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Guy,
I, too, debated for a long time with which fuel sender and gauge to use. I
installed Van's capacitance sender ($50.00) in my tanks, but in the end, I
decided that the cost of the gauge ($350) was a bit much. I mean, I am
going to put fuel in the thing everytime, so the gauges are just a backup
for me to remember what I put in. Now, for less than $100, I got two fuel
gauges and two float senders from Vans. Now, what difference does it make
if the gauges only start moving once the tank is at 14 gallons? I mean, at
28 gallons left in the tank is still more than 600 miles range left in them,
so why worry?
The float senders are so inexpensive that using anything else is nothing
more that giving money away, in my opinion. You could do like I did and
installed the capacitance senders in the tanks for a later time. Use the
floats and analog gauges for a while. However, I think Van's gauges are
very attactive and for $31.00, they even internally lit. What's not to
like?
Good luck in your selection
Fabian
90292
Working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
> No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are
> several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display
can
> be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the
> digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive circuit
> anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI gauge
it
> comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main
advantage
> to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect.
>
>
> Guy,
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> guy(at)votuc.com
> > writes:
> >
> >
> > > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing kit.
I
> > > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work nicely
> with
> > > it.
> >
> > Guy,
> > You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain
system.
> I
> > was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by
> Van's.
> > Was I misled?
> > Roger Aspegren
> > 80% done with wings
> > Denton, Ne
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
I agree Fabian and thats what I've done as well. I guess I get too technical
by nature and always question stuff. It seems there are a lot of compromises
in areas I feel could be satisfied better from a technical point of view.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
> Guy,
>
> I, too, debated for a long time with which fuel sender and gauge to use.
I
> installed Van's capacitance sender ($50.00) in my tanks, but in the end, I
> decided that the cost of the gauge ($350) was a bit much. I mean, I am
> going to put fuel in the thing everytime, so the gauges are just a backup
> for me to remember what I put in. Now, for less than $100, I got two fuel
> gauges and two float senders from Vans. Now, what difference does it make
> if the gauges only start moving once the tank is at 14 gallons? I mean,
at
> 28 gallons left in the tank is still more than 600 miles range left in
them,
> so why worry?
>
> The float senders are so inexpensive that using anything else is nothing
> more that giving money away, in my opinion. You could do like I did and
> installed the capacitance senders in the tanks for a later time. Use the
> floats and analog gauges for a while. However, I think Van's gauges are
> very attactive and for $31.00, they even internally lit. What's not to
> like?
>
> Good luck in your selection
>
> Fabian
> 90292
> Working on fuselage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
>
>
> >
> > No not misled, but thats the only one "they" sell I believe. Their are
> > several electronic units that work with Cap type senders and the display
> can
> > be calibrated . Of course all of them are expensive when you get to the
> > digital stuff. I believe they actually convert them to a resistive
circuit
> > anyway before feeding to the gauge circuitry. If you look at the EI
gauge
> it
> > comes with a remote "adapter" used to convert the signal. The main
> advantage
> > to the cap senders is of course the no moving parts aspect.
> >
> >
> > Guy,
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Fly84878(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 5/15/02 10:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > guy(at)votuc.com
> > > writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > > Yea, I had ordered the Cap senders "way back" when I got the wing
kit.
> I
> > > > may end up with the Blue Mountain EFIS system so they will work
nicely
> > with
> > > > it.
> > >
> > > Guy,
> > > You say the capacitive senders work with the Blue Mountain
> system.
> > I
> > > was led to believe that the senders work only with the EI gage sold by
> > Van's.
> > > Was I misled?
> > > Roger Aspegren
> > > 80% done with wings
> > > Denton, Ne
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Gary wrote:
"I have read archives and older web sites that indicated they fit very
poorly and were difficult to install."
<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>
Yes, the baffle kit is a pain to install and a few of the parts don't fit as
well as they could. I found it particularly difficult to bend the inlet
floors to the proper angles without starting cracks. However, making the
baffles from scratch would be VERY MUCH more difficult if you didn't start
with Van's kit.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Vans Fuel Gauge |
Whatever indicators you use with the factory capacitance plates, you will need
the EI transducers to provide a voltage output. Vans sells them for $45 each.
To work well, whatever indicator you use should be callibrateable (is that a
word?). The values are not linear either, mostly due to the shape of the tank,
so you need to callibrate a few mid-points if you want reasonable accuracy, as
good as any qty anway.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | Star Washers in QBag 1923? |
There are two star washers in QBag 1923 which contains Flap Hardware
(rod end bearings), but I don't see a callout for them on the drawings.
Can anybody tell me where they go?
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Are the float senders a part of the finish kit or are they an extra?
Steve
#90360
N Yorks., UK
Left step
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
Subject: | Re: float senders |
05/17/2002 11:19:13 PM,
Serialize complete at 05/17/2002 11:19:13 PM
The fuel floats and gages are extra. The entire set from Vans is
$100.00
Regards
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: float senders |
on 5/17/02 2:18 PM, PERRYMAN Larry at larry.perryman(at)atofina.com wrote:
>
>
> The fuel floats and gages are extra. The entire set from Vans is
> $100.00
>
You can also order the floats and senders without the gauges.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Star Washers in QBag 1923? |
The AN936A416 Internal lock Washers are called out on DWG 14 "Right Side
View". They go on the Rod End Bearing that moves the Flap.
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Star Washers in QBag 1923?
>
> There are two star washers in QBag 1923 which contains Flap Hardware
> (rod end bearings), but I don't see a callout for them on the drawings.
> Can anybody tell me where they go?
> Leland in Pleasanton
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Coldenhoff <borg(at)primenet.com> |
Subject: | Wing kit long angle material usage |
Howdy all -
Can't find this in the archives, and Van's
is closed today, so I need to call upon the list...
I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out
of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to
be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing.
The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths
of angle from which to make these, so of course I
am nervous about cutting on them.
I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped
with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be
cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of
this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see,
for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are
used.
Can someone (preferably that knows about materials
used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is
OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4
or am I missing something?
On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920
made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't
seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master
cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know
what this is?
Thanks,
- Tim.
RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing kit long angle material usage |
Tim,
Yes, except for the 15' pieces for the longerons, the rest is to be used up
as you go. I believe the other angles sent are two(2) AA125X10' and two
(2) AA063 X12' pieces.
Good luck!
Fabian
90292
Working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Coldenhoff" <borg(at)primenet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Wing kit long angle material usage
>
> Howdy all -
>
> Can't find this in the archives, and Van's
> is closed today, so I need to call upon the list...
>
> I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out
> of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to
> be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing.
>
> The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths
> of angle from which to make these, so of course I
> am nervous about cutting on them.
>
> I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped
> with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be
> cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of
> this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see,
> for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are
> used.
>
> Can someone (preferably that knows about materials
> used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is
> OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4
> or am I missing something?
>
> On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920
> made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't
> seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master
> cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know
> what this is?
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
> RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing kit long angle material usage |
Tim, I hope you didn't cut your W-925C's yet! These are special parts,
not just angle stock. They have a small jog in them so they step up onto
the flange. Look around for these, including in the bags. The other parts
of the flap brackets are from angle stock. Don't cut your longerons as
you mentioned. The others are sort of general purpose and I have found
that there's a few feet leftover when all is said and done.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing kit long angle material usage |
The W-920 does not exist anymore. It used to be an angle that you
manufactured the wing tiedown anchor from, before they changed to the
extruded tiedown anchor material. You need not make them.
Look on the first page of section 7 of your manual. Hopefully they have
updated the section there that tells you to fabricate the tiedowns.
Mine is dated 2/25/01, and had changed to the AEX extruded tiedowns, but
the part # callouts were all mixed up. If you have a later manual
revision, you might not have any confusion there. If they have not
fixed it, paragraphs 5, 6, 7, and 8 under "Preparing the Main Spar" will
be very confusing, with the wrong part numbers and references to some of
the parts that no longer exist, like the W-725 angles and the W-726
Tiedown Spacers.
You should be okay if you just go by the drawings, and use the extruded
tiedown material.
Gary
.............On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920
made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't
seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master
cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know
what this is?
Thanks,
- Tim.
RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details'
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Steve, I buggered up one of my senders from Vans and bought one locally, from an
auto parts store. The local purchase cost $3 more than Vans, but a local purchase
may still be cheaper for you. They are made by Stewart Warner and are called "Thick
Film Fuel Level Sender". The part number on the one I bought was 385B-F, Sender
Fuel Citerne. There is a right and a left.
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | W921 Flap Gap Fairing to Rear Wing Spar |
I am building a quick build and am working on the wings. There are
several
rivets on the W921 flap gap fairing which attach to the rear wing spar.
The
plans call out all regular rivets but there are about 5 I can't get to.
How the
heck are these bucked? Do I need to hire a midget contortionist? Or can
I
use blind rivets for these few? Has anyone else run into this and how
did
you reach them?
Thanx
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Stall warning or Angle of attack |
I'm working on the wings to my quick build and was wondering
if anyone has installed either a stall warning or angle of attack
sensor. First, where did you install them? Second, are you
happy with the results? (Assuming it flying by now)
Thanx
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Wing kit long angle material usage |
Very good question Tim
I ran into this situation a couple weeks ago. I thought I had lost some
aluminum angle and ordered some from Van's. I look forward to hearing
the correct answer to this dilemma.
Paul
RV-9a Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Coldenhoff
Subject: RV9-List: Wing kit long angle material usage
Howdy all -
Can't find this in the archives, and Van's
is closed today, so I need to call upon the list...
I am about to fabricate W-925C flap brackets out
of AA6-063x3/4x3/4 angle. So of course, I want to
be sure I am not about to hack up the wrong thing.
The only material I seem to have is two 12' lengths
of angle from which to make these, so of course I
am nervous about cutting on them.
I understand the two ~15' AA6-125 angles that shipped
with the wing kit are fuse longerons that should not be
cut. But I have not been able to find where ~24' of
this other angle is used in the wing. Nor do I see,
for that matter, where two 9' pieces of AA6-125 are
used.
Can someone (preferably that knows about materials
used in the fuselage) tell me if it really truly is
OK to start cutting the 12' lengths of AA6-063x3/4x3/4
or am I missing something?
On a related note, my pick list says there is a W920
made from the same AA6-063 angle material. But I can't
seem to find this part in the drawings or in the master
cross reference in the preview plans. Anybody know
what this is?
Thanks,
- Tim.
RV9a Wings - 'Finishing rear spar details'
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Subject: | Wing kit long angle material usage |
Tim
The two AA6-063x3/4x3/4x12' angles were missing from my wing kit. Van's
shipped four 6' pieces to me and pointed out that the material was for
misc parts in both the wings and fuselage. The 12' lengths were merely
for convenience in shipping in the long spar box. Hope this clarifies
the situation.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack |
I am not flying, but a number of us worked with Jim (the AOA) guy , to
help determine a proper place. I can measure tomorrow, but you might
want to talk to Jim to see if anyone is flying a NINER with one. You can
not use the RV6/6a measurements as the wings are different.
Barry POte RV9a fuselage.
Jim Brandvold wrote:
>
>
> I'm working on the wings to my quick build and was wondering
> if anyone has installed either a stall warning or angle of attack
> sensor. First, where did you install them? Second, are you
> happy with the results? (Assuming it flying by now)
>
> Thanx
> Jim Brandvold
> N209RV (Reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack |
Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address?
Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between.
Thank you
Jim Brandvold
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | W921 Flap Gap Fairing to Rear Wing Spar |
Jim, I used CS4-4 blind rivets when attaching the flap gap fairings
(W921) for those hard to reach locations.
Leland
QuickBuilder in Pleasanton
"I am building a quick build and am working on the wings. There are
several
rivets on the W921 flap gap fairing which attach to the rear wing spar.
The
plans call out all regular rivets but there are about 5 I can't get to.
How the
heck are these bucked? "
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack |
Jim Brandvold wrote:
>
>
> Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address?
> Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between.
>
> Thank you
> Jim Brandvold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stall warning or Angle of attack |
Hope the pages I sent, help. The rod (black thing) coming out the bottom
skin (I surrounded it with a plastic grommet) is the plunger for purging
any trapped water. The AOA guy said that they don't always do that now.
a small hole with some kind of hand held device, suffices.
Barry Pote RV9a
Jim Brandvold wrote:
>
>
> Thanks. Who is Jim the AOA guy? Do you have his email address?
> Please send the measurements and which ribs you placed it between.
>
> Thank you
> Jim Brandvold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com> |
I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in the
Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC
connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate.
Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both
sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover
plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out?
I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal
seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the connector
getting it out.
Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Ken Anderson
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
On my QB the F-712 bulkhead was clecoed in place. I have presumed there is
some reason later in the building why it was not attached prior to shipment.
In fact it seems that there was no reason for this. Could someone confirm I
can just rivet it up. That seems to be the implication of the penultimate
paragraph of "Rear Fuselage Asyy" p 8-5 in my manuel.
Thanks, Steve.
QB90360
Fuse
N Yorks., UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
I just removed my tank end plates which were ProSealed on about
six months ago. They put up a struggle, but once you get one edge
free the rest came off OK. The cork gasket is toast of course. I bowed
one edge of the plates, but they straighted out OK. As long as you
wipe the existing sealer on your BNC connector down with a solvent
first (PrepSol or Lacquer reducer would probably do the trick) I don't
think you'll have any trouble getting the new sealer to stick. Is there
anything this nasty stuff doesn't stick to? I can't recommend any other
sealer when you close it up again. Perhaps someone else has some
experience with other sealants on their tank lids?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
I'd scuff sand the proseal a bit, and wipe down with MEK before applying
more Proseal.
I didn't use the cork gaskets on my access covers, just the Proseal.
Gary
I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in
the
Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC
connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate.
Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both
sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover
plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out?
I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal
seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the
connector
getting it out.
Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Ken Anderson
Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Votuc" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leaks |
Ken,
I just used the cork gasket with no sealant. It seemed very soft and
rubbery as it was and passed the pressure leak test. I used Bakerseal on the
screw threads and under the heads ( I countersunk the access plate ) .
From: "ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fuel tank leaks
>
> I just did the pressure tests on the fuel tanks, and found a leak in the
> Right fuel tank. Fortunately, the leak is at the electrical BNC
> connector for the capacitive sender which is next to the cover plate.
> Questions: I installed the access/cover plate with proseal on both
> sides of the cork gasket -- what is the best way to remove the cover
> plate, and is there a problem getting the screws out?
>
> I am hoping that a proseal "patch" inside will work. Will new proseal
> seal to cured proseal. Otherwise I will probably destroy the connector
> getting it out.
>
> Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex?
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken Anderson
> Working on wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rich Leiby" <rleiby(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | New engine-corrosion prevention |
I have just mounted my new 0320 lycoming to my RV9. I drained all of the
preservative from the engine and would like to know what to do for
engine preservation while I am finishing the plane. Rich Leiby
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Firewall Forward Package |
I received the firewall forward kit from Vans last Monday. It includes
several items on the aft side of the firewall that could/should have been
included when the firewall was originally fabricated.
(A) The doubler (VA-161) for the Gas-4 gascolator. This powder coated steel
part only costs about $11 and should have been supplied with the fuse kit.
DWG OP-28.
(B) The doubler (F-7127D) for the master and starter relay mounting bolts.
Dwg OP-31A.
(C) 5 nutplates, 3 for the battery box and 2 for the master and starter
relay mounting bolts. Dwg OP-31A.
To mount some of these parts, you have to drill out existing rivets in the
firewall so it kind of ticks you off. One other really nice touch is the
items required to install the relays are all included EXCEPT the one that
seems to be the hardest to find locally - 2 small pieces of .063 copper
bus bar 1/2" x 2-7/8".
OK, I'm done complaining but you can do a much nicer job if your firewall
is not yet riveted in.
Albert Gardner RV9A-0132
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02 |
In a message dated 5/20/02 1:51:48 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex?
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken Anderson
> Working on wings
>
Ken:
I have read other e-mails from RV-6 guys who are using RTV instead of
pro-seal on the cork gaskets since (they say) the clean up is a bit easier.
I still haven't decided which way I am going to go.
Doug Lomheim
90116 (Just finished the last fuel tank!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02 |
Be carefull with RTV most of them aren't fuleproof. We tried to use it on
a sending unit on a C-172 it didn't work. We used non hardening Permatex an
had no problems.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Aligning ribs with bottom skin |
I was just drilling the bottom skins and found that using a large needle
(.090 X 2.5) to align the holes in the skins and ribs was a lot easier than
using the broom handle with a bolt in the end. Another builder used a dart.
Regards, John.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02 |
Do not use the acetic acid cure type of RTV silicone. This product will
liberate acetic acid during cure. Acetic acid can be very corrosive to
metal parts. This is not the case with neutral cure RTV silicone.
In either case, I'm not sure RTV would be the best sealant for a fuel tank.
Always use a product that is intended for gasoline, or specifically avgas. I
saw one photo of an RV6 tank sender that was completely seized by using RTV
on the gasket.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02
>
> In a message dated 5/20/02 1:51:48 AM Central Daylight Time,
> rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
> > Has anyone tried putting the cover plate/gasket on with Permatex?
> >
> > Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ken Anderson
> > Working on wings
> >
>
> Ken:
> I have read other e-mails from RV-6 guys who are using RTV instead of
> pro-seal on the cork gaskets since (they say) the clean up is a bit
easier.
> I still haven't decided which way I am going to go.
>
> Doug Lomheim
> 90116 (Just finished the last fuel tank!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 05/19/02 |
Doug, Ken, and others
I attempted to use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on my first cover
plate/gasket. The can read " turns to paste in seconds ".
Unfortunately, I received a bad can, and 9 days later it still had not
set up properly. The gasket peeled right off the rib. On advise of
Van's, I installed a new gasket with no sealant except Proseal on the
screw threads and under the heads. The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours
using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections
between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming
his tank.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A fuselage
13B Rotary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
> The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours
> using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections
> between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming
> his tank.
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A fuselage
> 13B Rotary
>
What do you use to inflate the tank to 1 psi?
Mark Schrimmer
Tanks riveted but not tested
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Mark
I set my tank on 2 saw horses, with tank leading edge up. Using some
clear tubing that would just fit over the vent line fitting. I then
formed a u-shape with the tubing about 3 feet high and tacked it on,
what else, the wing stand 4x4. One end was open, the other routed to
the vent fitting. Before connecting the tube to the vent, I filled the
u with water up to about 18 inches on both sides. After securely
clamping the tube to the vent fitting, I used my air hose blow gun to
gently inject air into the tank thru the drain valve until there was
approx. 27 inches differential in the levels between the two sides of
the u-tube. This gives approx 1 psi in the tank. I was surprised how
rapidly the water levels would move toward equalization with very small
leaks. I sprayed soapy water on the tank to find the air leaks. One
caution, changes of temperature of the tank skin will change the water
level differential even without leaks. This would be true even if you
were using a pressure gage directly on the tank. I made sure that the
tank temperature was close to the same at the start and end of the 48
hours. Sorry to write a book in answer to your simple question.
Dean Van Winkle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Stewart" <davestewart(at)globalserve.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tank testing |
Tape/plug the openings closed & put an inflated balloon over the drain
Dave 90252
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Tank testing
>
> > The tank held 1 psi for 48 hours
> > using a water manometer. One psi gives very noticeable deflections
> > between ribs. One builder earlier reported using 4 psi and deforming
> > his tank.
> >
> > Dean Van Winkle
> > RV-9A fuselage
> > 13B Rotary
> >
>
>
> What do you use to inflate the tank to 1 psi?
>
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Tanks riveted but not tested
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | Elevator Attachment to Horizontal Stabilizer |
I called Vans today to obtain information on how to attach the HS-911
INBD Hinge bracket assembly (DWG 3) to the WD-605 Elevator Horn. Gus
said to install and clamp one of the elevators stationary and drill
through the VA-146 Hinge Bearing and into the Elevator Horn. Then
install the other elevator and drill through the drilled horn, through
the Bearing and into the second elevator. I did not have a 1/4" angle
drill and simply had to sequentially drill through the Bearing and into
each elevator individually. It worked out fine as there is no binding or
tendency to wobble after a bolt is connected through the elevators and
Bearing.
Gus also said not to use the published procedure for drilling the
(lower) holes in the Horns for the pushrod attachment. Rather than
aligning by clamping the elevator counterweight arms to the stabilizer,
he wants the builder to find the elevator neutral positions with a
straight edge(s) running in the direction of the airfoil, or to lay an
8' piece of angle across the elevators to assure that they are both in
the same position before drilling the lower holes through the Horns. I
wound up laying the stabilizer with elevators attached on a flat
workbench and playing with the elevator clamping until the the elevator
edges both laid flat along the edge of the workbench. In my case, there
was not much difference between this method and the "counterbalance
clamping" method described in the assembly instructions. However, Gus
said that misaligned elevators can occur with the "counterbalance
clamping" method and cause the plane to have a roll tendency in flight.
(I don't know if I understand this as it seems that a one-sided trim tab
would also tend to roll the plane.)
Sorry if this write-up is confusing, but you may have to study at
Drawings 3, 5 and 27 to understand what I am talking about.
Leland in Pleasanton
Attaching empennage to fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
For those of you that have already mounted your steps...
Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic diameter
of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside the skin? Right
now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits just off the skin.
--
Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Andy - I went minutely - perhaps 1/32 - oversize and then just adjusted
where necessary. The problem sort of dissappeared and it all settled down.
Be prepared to bend and whack the steel to make it all sit flush.
Steve
#90360
N Yorks, UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: RV9-List: Step skin hole?
For those of you that have already mounted your steps...
Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic
diameter of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside the
skin? Right now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits just off
the skin.
--
Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start? |
Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day -
F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying to
work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not
rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets!
It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do.
Regards, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Hampel [mailto:hampel(at)knology.net]
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
Steve,
Thanks for all of the good info. You are right, I have had a hard time
getting a straight answer from anyone at Vans as to where to start. This
helps a lot.
Sorry for the late reply but my email has been down...been rebuilding my
computer -again!
Best to you,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
Wayne - I am not sure you got ananswer. As a QB builder who asks lots of
questions I thought I owed you somthing.
There is not an exact place, and VANS certainly dont tell you. My approach
was to start at the beginning with coffee and a chair and just start putting
ticks in the book if someone had already done things. That has worked
reasonably well. There are a few things you have to undo since the
instruction in the Philippines seems to be - see a hole? Put a rivet in it.
But then there are exceptions.
I started around the rear baggage floors and since the manual said rivet
them in I did, but that was a mistake. DONT. Then the rudder pedals I think.
But just work through the text, though it is not nearly to the standard of
the emp. kit. What you get is an 'empty' fuse with the skin over the baggage
cmptmnt and over your knees missing.There are weeks of work on the fusse
alone. At a guess I have put 150hrs into it since January and there is
masses to do yet.
The wings, well no experience butI will take the same approach. If nothing
else, doingit this way you increase your understanding of what has / hasnt
been done. Basically they are much further along. Lower outer skins off and
the control system absent.
Steve
#90360
UK
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Hampel
To: RV-9a group
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
Well, I am trying to plan a schedule for when my 9a QB arrives and I
realized I don't know exactly at what stage the QB is completed through.
Could anyone that has received the QB tell me if there is a point in the
manual that I would start once it gets here? Does Van's ship additional
drawings/manual supplements with the QB? What exactly is in the finish kit
(they are 10-12 weeks out now and I didn't know exactly when I was going to
need each component in the finish kit). My FWF subaru engine will be
sitting here before the QB arrives and I was trying to determine how long
from QB arrival to engine hanging time.
Thanks for any input.
Wayne Hampel
Huntsville, AL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Step skin hole? |
I did it differently. as it is hard to use a hole cutter, after a hole
has been cut, and as it is not critical to make the hole tight, I think
I opened it to the plans measurement, what ever that was, but 1st I
checked to see if it cleared the weld. I think it did. But if it has
not, I would have gone bigger on the hole saw. I don't believe that the
hole is structural (a tight fit).
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage.
Steve Sampson wrote:
>
>
> Andy - I went minutely - perhaps 1/32 - oversize and then just adjusted
> where necessary. The problem sort of dissappeared and it all settled down.
> Be prepared to bend and whack the steel to make it all sit flush.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Steve.....is your tail tiedown anchor installed yet? I put mine in
before I put the 712 bulkhead in. Then when I put the vertical stab
on, I first drilled backdward through the holes that attach the vertical
stab to the 712, with a 12 inch #30 bit, and clear through the 711
bulkhead. Did this for the four holes. Then when I mounted the vert.
stab, I drilled back through the whole thing from the other direction,
through the stab spar, still #30. Then I enlarged the holes from the
outside to #12 for the bolts holding the stab spar.
If you have a small enough angle drill you could aviod drilling through
the 711, but this worked really easy for me.
Bottom line is, I would rivet the tiedown anchor to the F-712 before
riveting the 712 in place.
Gary
Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day
-
F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still
trying to
work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not
rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets!
It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do.
Regards, Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Step skin hole? |
Yep, make it fit. I lined up and cut the holes in the baggage floor
bulkeads first, then filed the skin hole till it cleared the step weld.
After all the discussion about flush vs roundy head rivets for the step
plates, if I did it again, I'd use flush rivets, and proseal on the
plates.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Karmy
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: RV9-List: Step skin hole?
For those of you that have already mounted your steps...
Did you simply continue to enlarge the side skin hole beyond the basic
diameter of the support tube, until the welds on the flat tab fit inside
the skin? Right now my hole is cut tight to the tube and the plate sits
just off the skin.
--
Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
--
=
=
messages.
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start? |
Steve,
Is the F-712E Tie-Down Bar riveted onto the F-712A&A Bulkheads? If not,
they may have left the bulkhead out to make that part of the installation
easier.
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: RE: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
>
> Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day -
> F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still trying
to
> work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not
> rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets!
>
> It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do.
>
> Regards, Steve.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne Hampel [mailto:hampel(at)knology.net]
> To: Steve Sampson
> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
>
>
> Steve,
> Thanks for all of the good info. You are right, I have had a hard time
> getting a straight answer from anyone at Vans as to where to start. This
> helps a lot.
> Sorry for the late reply but my email has been down...been rebuilding my
> computer -again!
> Best to you,
> Wayne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
> To:
> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
>
>
> Wayne - I am not sure you got ananswer. As a QB builder who asks lots of
> questions I thought I owed you somthing.
> There is not an exact place, and VANS certainly dont tell you. My approach
> was to start at the beginning with coffee and a chair and just start
putting
> ticks in the book if someone had already done things. That has worked
> reasonably well. There are a few things you have to undo since the
> instruction in the Philippines seems to be - see a hole? Put a rivet in
it.
> But then there are exceptions.
>
> I started around the rear baggage floors and since the manual said rivet
> them in I did, but that was a mistake. DONT. Then the rudder pedals I
think.
> But just work through the text, though it is not nearly to the standard of
> the emp. kit. What you get is an 'empty' fuse with the skin over the
baggage
> cmptmnt and over your knees missing.There are weeks of work on the fusse
> alone. At a guess I have put 150hrs into it since January and there is
> masses to do yet.
>
> The wings, well no experience butI will take the same approach. If nothing
> else, doingit this way you increase your understanding of what has / hasnt
> been done. Basically they are much further along. Lower outer skins off
and
> the control system absent.
>
> Steve
> #90360
> UK
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wayne Hampel
> To: RV-9a group
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 3:24 PM
> Subject: [RV-9A] where does QB start?
>
>
> Well, I am trying to plan a schedule for when my 9a QB arrives and I
> realized I don't know exactly at what stage the QB is completed through.
> Could anyone that has received the QB tell me if there is a point in the
> manual that I would start once it gets here? Does Van's ship additional
> drawings/manual supplements with the QB? What exactly is in the finish
kit
> (they are 10-12 weeks out now and I didn't know exactly when I was going
to
> need each component in the finish kit). My FWF subaru engine will be
> sitting here before the QB arrives and I was trying to determine how long
> from QB arrival to engine hanging time.
> Thanks for any input.
> Wayne Hampel
> Huntsville, AL
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> Height: 4 5 6 7 ft 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 in
> Weight:
> Sex: F M
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Step skin hole? |
Ditto on the bending and whacking to make it sit well. The tight fit
actually makes for a good seal once it's fastened down. I put an O-ring
around it only to discover that it sliced the O-ring when I tightened it (mine
is held on with screws), so I scrapped the O-ring. No need for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Here is a partial copy of a posting from the main RV list. I am
reposting it because not everyone on this list subscribes:
The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the
results:
We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery
techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and
once established in the spin takes about three turns to become
developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin
is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft.
The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent
spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain
effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is
little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall
occurs.
Ken Krueger, Engineer
Van's Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Gary - thanks for that. No the tie down anchor is not yet attached. Even
though the bulkead is not riveted in place though it is not removable. The
conical nature of the fuse combined with the longerons lock it from moving
either way.
From your mail I take it the only issues are the tie down anchor and the
vertical stab. That is how I see the plans. I am just puzzled why VANS gave
me clecos not rivets!
Thanks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary
Subject: RV9-List: tiedown anchor
Steve.....is your tail tiedown anchor installed yet? I put mine in
before I put the 712 bulkhead in. Then when I put the vertical stab
on, I first drilled backdward through the holes that attach the vertical
stab to the 712, with a 12 inch #30 bit, and clear through the 711
bulkhead. Did this for the four holes. Then when I mounted the vert.
stab, I drilled back through the whole thing from the other direction,
through the stab spar, still #30. Then I enlarged the holes from the
outside to #12 for the bolts holding the stab spar.
If you have a small enough angle drill you could aviod drilling through
the 711, but this worked really easy for me.
Bottom line is, I would rivet the tiedown anchor to the F-712 before
riveting the 712 in place.
Gary
Wayne - I posted a query regarding the rearmost bulkhead the other day
-
F712. No answers. Is yours attached or loose? (Clecoed) I am still
trying to
work out why VANS ship it this way. I can see no reason why it was not
rivetted in. The clecos cost far more than the rivets!
It looks to me as though this is the first item you have to do.
Regards, Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
For those that don't watch the main RV list, this info sounded interesting...
Any of you planning on spin testing your RV9's once they are flying?
- Andy
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin Testing??
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert
I have not yet seen the RVator article. It sounds as if it is only directed at
the 7.
However, some months ago I did have an opportunity to e-mail Van's regarding
spin characteristics for the 9a, (which my son and I will build).
If it is helpful, this was the reply:
The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the
results:
We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery
techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and
once established in the spin takes about three turns to become
developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin
is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft.
The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent
spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain
effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is
little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall
occurs.
Ken Krueger, Engineer
Van's Aircraft
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/20/02 8:57:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes:
>
> << Can someone summarize the article on spin testing the RV-7 to us
> non-subscribers to the RVator.
>
> I used to subscribe, but it would only arrive 75% of the time and had
> limited info as I remember. This
> however sounds very interesting.
>
> Thinking about subscribing again,
> Steve
> RV-7A >>
>
> Essentially, the RVator said they had "mocked up" an RV-6a, using their RV-6a
> with extended wingtips and both flavors of vertical stab and rudder (the old
> "short" type, and the current "tall" type, like has been in the kits (-6 and
> -7) for a couple of years. This was prior to building the first -7.
>
> Their mock-up testing showed acceptable results. Howerver, when they did
> spin testing with a "real" RV-7, with the longer fuse, span, etc. it's
> characteristics were not as good as in a stock RV-6a. They had expected
> better characteristics than on the -6a, because of the longer tail moment.
>
> In the article, they made a relative comparison on the RV-6a and RV-7,
> concluding that the neither the -6a or -7 meet aerobatic category spin
> certification requirments, but both meet standard category spin requirements,
> with the -6A having better characteristics than the -7.
>
> They are preparing to try a larger rudder "to enhance spin recovery
> authority."
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
For those that don't watch the main RV list, this info sounded interesting...
Any of you planning on spin testing your RV9's once they are flying?
- Andy
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin Testing??
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert
I have not yet seen the RVator article. It sounds as if it is only directed at
the 7.
However, some months ago I did have an opportunity to e-mail Van's regarding
spin characteristics for the 9a, (which my son and I will build).
If it is helpful, this was the reply:
The RV-9 was spin tested and here is a brief summary of the
results:
We tested at various CG locations and used various recovery
techniques. The aircraft takes some effort to get into a spin and
once established in the spin takes about three turns to become
developed. Recovery is conventional but not immediate if the spin
is developed. Recovery takes longer with the CG further aft.
The low speed handling characteristics are such that inadvertent
spin entry should not be a problem. The RV-9 ailerons remain
effective throughout the stall, there is pre-stall buffet, also there is
little tendency for the aircraft to drop one wing when the stall
occurs.
Ken Krueger, Engineer
Van's Aircraft
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/20/02 8:57:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes:
>
> << Can someone summarize the article on spin testing the RV-7 to us
> non-subscribers to the RVator.
>
> I used to subscribe, but it would only arrive 75% of the time and had
> limited info as I remember. This
> however sounds very interesting.
>
> Thinking about subscribing again,
> Steve
> RV-7A >>
>
> Essentially, the RVator said they had "mocked up" an RV-6a, using their RV-6a
> with extended wingtips and both flavors of vertical stab and rudder (the old
> "short" type, and the current "tall" type, like has been in the kits (-6 and
> -7) for a couple of years. This was prior to building the first -7.
>
> Their mock-up testing showed acceptable results. Howerver, when they did
> spin testing with a "real" RV-7, with the longer fuse, span, etc. it's
> characteristics were not as good as in a stock RV-6a. They had expected
> better characteristics than on the -6a, because of the longer tail moment.
>
> In the article, they made a relative comparison on the RV-6a and RV-7,
> concluding that the neither the -6a or -7 meet aerobatic category spin
> certification requirments, but both meet standard category spin requirements,
> with the -6A having better characteristics than the -7.
>
> They are preparing to try a larger rudder "to enhance spin recovery
> authority."
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Bob Cutting ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Cutting
Subject: O-290
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bob_Cutting@toyota.ca.05.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: [ Bob Cutting ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Bob......thanks for the good pictures. I have an alternator that looks
just like yours, and have been looking for a suitable pulley and mount.
What did you use? Looks like a stock diameter black anodized pulley.
Is it an automotive part? Mine has a 15 mm shaft.
Is the mount a Van's boss mount?
Mine is an 0-320, but I assume the pulley and mount would be the same as
yours.
Thanks,
Gary
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
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From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: TruTrak autopilot installation diagrams
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Wire Routing in Tail |
I have a question regarding wire run to the tail. The tail is obviously
different than the -6 so there isn't any builder history. I need to rivet
the aft skins this week - just gotta stop waffling about wire runs to the
rear.
I need to run wire for a white position light in the rudder. It looks
really tough to do. My thinking is to run a plastic tube through snap
bushings in the bottom bulkheads (drill out tooling holes). I need to exit
the rear bulkhead - and run wire into the rudder bottom. How is this done ?
? The rearmost bulkhead is solid, and the rudder swivels. I'm leery about
drilling through it for expose wire. I would like to lay in a plastic tube
in the rudder bottom, have a break, then have a plastic tube through all of
the rear bulkheads for the light, after which it can be bundled with
elevator trim wire, etc. I will have to remove the tail again to get the
project outside.
I am not comfortable with this type of solution but can't think of anything
better. An Oshkosh walkabout is too far off to get better ideas. Can
anyone help with a better solution? Am I really the only one with a rear
position light?
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 15% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Routing in Tail |
I drilled a hole for a 1/4" snap bushing directly between the two plates that
make up the bottom hinge, offset to one side so it doesn't interfere with the
hinge bolt. Because the parts are so thick here, I had to use a bit of
weatherstrip adhesive to secure the snap bushing. It seems to pivot fine
without concern for pinching the wire. I too would be interested in knowing
how others solved this.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary Crowder
Subject: Manual trim cable mount
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Routing in Tail |
As the originator of this question I would like to give my follow-up. I
ended up drilling between the bottom hinges similar to what Gary did. I did
not use a snap bushing on the rear bulkhead. I drilled out the tooling
holes in the other two tail bulkheads, and inserted two snap bushings plus a
plastic tube. This permitted me to drill a smaller hole in the aft bulkhead
while protecting the wire run from the rear bulkheads through the rudder
bottom. I'm happy with it. No binding, no drainage trap, etc. The tube
serves as a bushing to protect the wire in a busy, windy area close to lots
of moving metal. Thanks.
> I drilled a hole for a 1/4" snap bushing directly between the two plates
that
> make up the bottom hinge, offset to one side so it doesn't interfere with
the
> hinge bolt. Because the parts are so thick here, I had to use a bit of
> weatherstrip adhesive to secure the snap bushing. It seems to pivot fine
> without concern for pinching the wire. I too would be interested in
knowing
> how others solved this.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Firewall forward |
Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am
waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of
anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery
box.
I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their
own to share?
Thanks,
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kevin
Subject: AK aug 2001
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.05.29.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Routing in Tail |
I like it! In my case, there were five wires (2 for position, 3 for strobe)
so I needed a larger hole.
I may adopt your tube idea rather than the snap bushing just to eliminate any
chance of pinching.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad odds-n-ends are
up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do. I
agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a
Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery mounting
until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have some
leeway as to how and where the battery can go.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Gary
here's a good all around picture site especially for firewall forward
http://vondane.com/rv8a/index.htm
He didn't gascolate but that is located for you anyway on the firewall
drawing. The fact that it's an RV-8a doesn't seem to make a whole lot
of logistical difference.
Bill Rounds
N159RV
Finish kit RV-9a
Gary wrote:
>
>Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am
>waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of
>anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery
>box.
>
>I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their
>own to share?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the
RV-9a?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Hey Gary,
From what I hear, the new Firewall Forward "kit / package" from Vans also includes
a set of plans and detailed instructions. Even if you are not going to use
the package kit, you may want to order just the plans to see how they do it.
The plans only are $25.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:18:07 -0600
>
>Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am
>waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of
>anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery
>box.
>
>I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their
>own to share?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "FABIAN LEFLER" <FLEFLER(at)broward.org> |
Dave,
I chose the 3,000 ft/min for my RV-9A. I will probably not see anything above
2,000 for climb, but if I thought it would be important to know if I had been
caught in somewhat a fast decent due to natural forces.
Regards,
Fabian
> dnick2(at)insightbb.com 05/29/02 11:51PM >>>
Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for the
RV-9a?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Actually, I like the battery box installed according to the DWG 31. Really
professional and sturdy. It leaves a lot of space all around the Dynafocal
mount. I also have Bob Nuckalls ground block, as well. It seems that this
will give simple and short wire runs on both sides of the firewall
(left-side oriented). Although there aren't many pictures around, there are
firewall layouts in the Finish kit (sort of) and a couple of good RV-6
examples in the Tony Bingelis books. I plan to use them as a guideline when
I start the engine work. I would suggest that you use platenuts on the
cabin side so that one person can remove things such as relays, etc. I plan
to do most of the layout up front and do much of the drilling at the same
time. I have cut out the control cable and cabin heat holes per the DWG -
an area where Vans has made a number of minor changes.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 15% Complete
> Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad odds-n-ends
are
> up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do.
I
> agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a
> Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery
mounting
> until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have
some
> leeway as to how and where the battery can go.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Gary,
Just got the FWF kit for the 9 last week. It is very complete. It does
have a smaller, improved battery box that mounts in a different location. I
had to drill out the larger one that came with the finish kit.
If you're thinking about the FWF kit, don't mount the battery box!
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
> Does anyone have any photos of firewall forward stuff on the 9? I am
> waiting for my backordered motor mount, and there is no mention of
> anything in front of the firewall in the manual.....not even the battery
> box.
>
> I looked at the FWF pics on Van's web site. Anybody have any of their
> own to share?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch
prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its
an arbitrary call to go with either one. Personally, I will pick the
2000 ft/min display as I would mostly care when setting up a standard
decent rate of 500 ft/min.
Leland in Pleasanton
Fitting tailfeathers
"Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for
the
RV-9a?"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
>Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch
>prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its
Ok Guys (and Gals)
Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on these rivets
and working out the endless details...
2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun!
- Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dutch Revenboer" <n507aa(at)hotmail.com> |
When I glanced at the VSI in the -9A demonstrator at SNF this April (85
degrees, Humidity=FLORIDA), it was pegged at 1800 fpm. Gus was flying, my
guess he is 170, and I weigh about 210.
Dutch
-9a Someday soon
Edmond, OK
>From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range
>Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:37:38 -0500
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
> >Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch
> >prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess its
>
>
>Ok Guys (and Gals)
>
>Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on these
>rivets and working out the endless details...
>
>2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun!
>
>- Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
05/31/2002 12:16:17 AM,
Serialize complete at 05/31/2002 12:16:17 AM
Check out the Rocky Mountain Micro Encoder. The VSI function is
adjustable from 1000 to 6000 FPM by the owner. Also gives you the
altitude encoding for your transponder.
Regards
Larry Perryman
"Dutch Revenboer"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
05/30/2002 03:37 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range
When I glanced at the VSI in the -9A demonstrator at SNF this April (85
degrees, Humidity=FLORIDA), it was pegged at 1800 fpm. Gus was flying,
my
guess he is 170, and I weigh about 210.
Dutch
-9a Someday soon
Edmond, OK
>From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: VSI Range
>Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 13:37:38 -0500
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: federigo(at)pacbell.net
> >Dave, an RV9A builder from San Carlos with an O-320 and a fixed pitch
> >prop told me he climbs at 2000 ft/min when flying alone. So I guess
its
>
>
>Ok Guys (and Gals)
>
>Lest we all miss the significance of this one while pounding away on
these
>rivets and working out the endless details...
>
>2000FPM climb!!!!! YAAAA HOOOO..... this is going to be fun!
>
>- Andy (Aerosport 0-320, and FP Sen) Karmy
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Gary-I posted a message on 5/19 relative to forward on the firewall. There
are several drawings which show the things required. They are OP-26, 27, 28,
and 29.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Be aware that DWG-19 which shows the firewall penetration points has 4
revisions on the drawing. I think all of the revisions were published in
the RVator.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
> Actually, I like the battery box installed according to the DWG 31.
Really
> professional and sturdy. It leaves a lot of space all around the
Dynafocal
> mount. I also have Bob Nuckalls ground block, as well. It seems that
this
> will give simple and short wire runs on both sides of the firewall
> (left-side oriented). Although there aren't many pictures around, there
are
> firewall layouts in the Finish kit (sort of) and a couple of good RV-6
> examples in the Tony Bingelis books. I plan to use them as a guideline
when
> I start the engine work. I would suggest that you use platenuts on the
> cabin side so that one person can remove things such as relays, etc. I
plan
> to do most of the layout up front and do much of the drilling at the same
> time. I have cut out the control cable and cabin heat holes per the DWG -
> an area where Vans has made a number of minor changes.
> Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> Finish Kit 15% Complete
>
> > Battery Mount is on sheet 31, motor mount on 46a. The myriad
odds-n-ends
> are
> > up to you! The finish kit plans have a reasonable list of things to do.
> I
> > agree that photos would help, but you'll have to find someone running a
> > Lycoming. One thing you might consider, is holding off on the battery
> mounting
> > until you have worked out all the motor and accessory details. You have
> some
> > leeway as to how and where the battery can go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> |
Subject: | engine cowl interior protection |
I recently read somewhere that someone recomemded the interior of the
cowl be protected to prevent heat and oil residue from damaging the
honeycomb liner does anyone have any recomendations ?
Steve Dwyer 90219 Finishing Kit 50%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Firewall Forward |
Thanks a bunch to all you guys who replied with help on the firewall
forward stuff. I, too, like the stock battery box for the Concord
battery, which I plan to use.
There are two dimensional errors on my sheet 31, which I just recieved a
few weeks ago. They are the ones showing the distance from the battery
box to the lower flange of the firewall, and the side row of rivets.
I called Van's about it, and was told they had been revised. The
interesting thing is, I just noticed they are CORRECT on the OLDER
drawing I got with the preview plans......incorrect on my later, revised
ones that came with the finish kit.
The box should be 8 11/16 above the bottom firewall flange. My drawing
(revised 4/3/01) shows
4 11/32.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
2000 FPM, so you can gleefully PEG it!
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Nicholson
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 9:51 PM
Subject: RV9-List: VSI Range
Which is a better range for a VSI, 2,000 Ft/min or 3,000 Ft/min for
the
RV-9a?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
=
=
messages.
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
One more firewall forward question: I'd like to visit with anyone using
an Ellison Throttle Body on their -9A 0-320. Van's couldn't tell me for
sure whether the same controls used on the Marvel carb setup would fit
this.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: engine cowl interior protection |
I have always had good luck with sprayable gelcoat on fiberglass cars. It
sprays on like three-day-old coffee. I've used it on every fiberglass
corvette project. It takes some sanding, but comes out looking like a
bowling ball. It stops "errant strands" aka spiderweb cracks, from showing
through your paint too. For inside the cowl, I wouldn't bother sanding, just
a single coat would do the trick. I needs to cure for a week or two before
painting over it. Bear in mind it is black. If anyone knows
where I can get white sprayable gelcoat, please tell! This stuff comes
from Ecklers Corvette in florida www.ecklers.com about $90/gallon (which
will do an entire car or about ten RV cowls.
Gary N.
----- Original Message -----
From: steve dwyer <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: engine cowl interior protection
>
> I recently read somewhere that someone recomemded the interior of the
> cowl be protected to prevent heat and oil residue from damaging the
> honeycomb liner does anyone have any recomendations ?
>
>
> Steve Dwyer 90219 Finishing Kit 50%
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Routing in Tail |
I found that a piece of 1/2 inch PVC water pipe fits perfectly in the
snap bushing holes. I used it for conduit for my ELT wiring past the
front pushrod.
Gary
I like it! In my case, there were five wires (2 for position, 3 for
strobe)
so I needed a larger hole.
I may adopt your tube idea rather than the snap bushing just to
eliminate any
chance of pinching.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
>>>>RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
....I posted a message on 5/19 relative to forward on the firewall. There
are several drawings which show the things required. They are OP-26, 27, 28,
and 29. <<<<<
Albert: Some of us were pretty far along when the FWF Kit was announced.
Since I am using Vans stuff where warranted I have ended up with a similar
homegrown parts list - I have printed off the FWF Kit contents so I could
use it as a parts guide for the remainder of the work.
QUESTION: For us "non-kitters" does one of the OP-26,27,28,29 drawings you
mentioned have an overall layout of the firewall which we could use for
planning purposes. I struggle with the concept placing one object on the
firewall without knowing where all the other stuff should go. I may mount
something then later find that the exhaust, etc., blocks access or cooks it.
Even Vans have made many revisions to their design just for control cables.
The FWF drawing (or preview drawing) would probably be a good template as a
starting point for laying out our own design. Thanks for any help.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 15% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Aileron bearings |
Looking at the aileron bearings I see they become 'sealed' into the two
halves of the bracket. Clearly the bracket should be primed but since it is
a steel bearing in an ally case should extra anticorrosion measures be
taken? What have folk been doing?
Thanks, Steve
N Yorks UK
#90360
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased
several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and the
filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. The
fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little fittings and
hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately if
you only wanted them, and they are very valuable.
OP26 - Control cables
OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler
OP28 - Fuel system
OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure
and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19
(firewall penetration points)
If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on the
inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It would
be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line before
the firewall is riveted in.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron bearings |
Prime it and forget about it. I believe the bearing is cadmium plated anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Albert,
I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would
save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to round
up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them
with no interference.
It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall. Then
you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the starter
and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when it's
easy.
Dale
RV9A N61DX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
> For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased
> several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and the
> filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit. The
> fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little fittings
and
> hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately if
> you only wanted them, and they are very valuable.
> OP26 - Control cables
> OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler
> OP28 - Fuel system
> OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure
> and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19
> (firewall penetration points)
> If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on the
> inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It would
> be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line before
> the firewall is riveted in.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> Working on FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Firewall forward |
Albert and Dale
I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look
hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit?
Paul Yarbrough
Puyallup, WA
RV-9a 90317
Close to the end on Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Larsen
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
Albert,
I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would
save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to
round
up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them
with no interference.
It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall.
Then
you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the
starter
and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when
it's
easy.
Dale
RV9A N61DX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
> For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased
> several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and
the
> filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit.
The
> fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little
fittings
and
> hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately
if
> you only wanted them, and they are very valuable.
> OP26 - Control cables
> OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler
> OP28 - Fuel system
> OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure
> and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19
> (firewall penetration points)
> If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on
the
> inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It
would
> be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line
before
> the firewall is riveted in.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> Working on FWF
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Check RVator issue #6 2001.
Albert Gardner
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul" <pyarbroug(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
> Albert and Dale
>
> I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look
> hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit?
>
> Paul Yarbrough
> Puyallup, WA
> RV-9a 90317
> Close to the end on Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Larsen
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
>
> Albert,
>
> I agree the FWF is a good buy. Even if you didn't save money, you would
> save a lot of time. Most builders have told me that it took months to
> round
> up all the parts one at a time, then try to figure out where to put them
> with no interference.
>
> It would be nice to have the drawings when assembling the firewall.
> Then
> you could install the doubler for the gascolator, doubler for the
> starter
> and master relays, transducer manifold, and battery box nutplates when
> it's
> easy.
>
> Dale
> RV9A N61DX
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Firewall forward
>
>
>
> >
> > For me the FWF kit from vans was a good buy. I had already purchased
> > several items such as the starter, spinner, cabin heat selector and
> the
> > filtered air box and they just deducted those items from the FWF kit.
> The
> > fuel hoses already have fire shield on them and all the little
> fittings
> and
> > hardware are included. I'm sure you could buy the drawings separately
> if
> > you only wanted them, and they are very valuable.
> > OP26 - Control cables
> > OP27 - Oil system including oil cooler
> > OP28 - Fuel system
> > OP29 - Cabin heat selector and manifold pressure
> > and don't forget the 4 revisions all published in RVator for Dwg 19
> > (firewall penetration points)
> > If nothing else, buy the gascolator doubler from Vans and rivet it on
> the
> > inside of the firewall before you rivet the firewall in the fuse. It
> would
> > be much easier to make up the aux fuel pump to gascolator fuel line
> before
> > the firewall is riveted in.
> > Albert Gardner
> > Yuma, AZ
> > RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
> > Working on FWF
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
On the web site, look in the accessories catalog under "new products",
or search for FWF.
Gary
I don't see the FWF kit listed on Van's web site. Maybe I didn't look
hard enough. Where can I find out about the kit?
Paul Yarbrough
Puyallup, WA
RV-9a 90317
Close to the end on Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall forward |
Go to Vans site, click on accessorizes catalog, click on engines and
accessories and there you are
Gene 90557
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Here we go again |
I picked up 90557 at Van's last Friday and am well on the way. One big
difference with this kit is no "H" frame is needed for the vertical
stab. it is all prepunched. I also picked up the firewall forward plans
and manual ($ 25.00) and well worth it. They will deduct the cost when
you get a FWF kit. The price for the FWF kit might seem a little steep
but there are some big ticket items included, check out the inventory on
Vans' site.
Gene #90557
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Here we go again |
Gene wrote:
>
> I picked up 90557 at Van's last Friday and am well on the way. One big
> difference with this kit is no "H" frame is needed for the vertical
> stab. it is all prepunched.
I assume, then, that the "H" jig is not needed at all?
(Much as with the newest "7" kits).
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Here we go again |
Yep, I assembled it on the bench and had it matched drilled in about two
hours.
Gene 90557
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | Sub Panel cutouts |
Some -6 builders have complained of inadequate space between the panel
and subpanels. Can anybody tell me if this is a problem with the -9.
Below is a copy of a post by a -6 builder. I also saw another post that
complained of inadequate depth for a CD player.
"Well I've been flying my 6A for over a year now and I am in the
process of installing a Navaid autopilot and "I wish I had cut
out most of the bulkhead behind the instrument panel". I would
cut out most of the center/web area and install some angle along
the bottom and a piece up the center to help support the canopy
relase mechanism. So far I've had to cut huge holes in it for
my horizon, DG, Navaid, GPS/COMM and transponder and it looks
like swiss cheese."
Leland (RV9AQB)
Thinking about doing the front deck for a slider
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sub Panel cutouts |
Leland
The Navaid fits in the 9A with plenty of room to spare but most radios
and transponders require a cut out in the subpanels. The micromonitor
fits easily if you're contemplating one of those
Bill Rounds
N159RV
Firewall forward
federigo(at)pacbell.net wrote:
>
>Some -6 builders have complained of inadequate space between the panel
>and subpanels. Can anybody tell me if this is a problem with the -9.
>Below is a copy of a post by a -6 builder. I also saw another post that
>complained of inadequate depth for a CD player.
>
>
>"Well I've been flying my 6A for over a year now and I am in the
>process of installing a Navaid autopilot and "I wish I had cut
>out most of the bulkhead behind the instrument panel". I would
>cut out most of the center/web area and install some angle along
>the bottom and a piece up the center to help support the canopy
>relase mechanism. So far I've had to cut huge holes in it for
>my horizon, DG, Navaid, GPS/COMM and transponder and it looks
>like swiss cheese."
>
>
>Leland (RV9AQB)
>Thinking about doing the front deck for a slider
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to
align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very
little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin, clecoing
the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded
double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything I
could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using
"Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight
surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the
riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces
together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I
had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask
for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement,
"Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to the
cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film
(this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to
dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because, when
it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good?
Bad? Indifferent?
Thomas C. Grant
30900, still struggling with the Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
Thomas,
A good way to rivet the trailing edges of the elevator (and rudder) is to
use the method used for the flaps and elevators. Trouble is, Van's doesn't
introduce you to this method until you get to the wings. Here is a
synopsis:
(1) Place the control surface on a FLAT table, and clamp it down straight.
I used a 2x2 board clamped across the top to hold the control surface flat
against the table. Shot bags work well too.
(2) Now drill the trailing edges and AEX wedge into the table. Cleco the
drilled holes to the table as you go.
(3) Remove the assembly. Deburr, dimple and countersink the wedge.
(4) You must use a bucking bar that is even with the surface of the table.
This allows the control surface to remain flat while you are riviting the
trailing edge. I bolted a 3x3x4' angle to the edge of my table, with the
top surface of the angle machined flat. Others hac\ve countersunk a steel
plate in their table. Either method works well.
Clamp the control surface (top down) to the table, with the trailing edge
extending over the 'bucking bar', with manufactured heads on the bucking
bar.
(5) Back set the rivets, (from the shop side) but only half way. Work from
the center out to the edges.
(6) Flip the entire assembly over and finish set the rivets from the
manufactured side.
(7) Remove the control surface and sight down the trailing edge. Perfectly
straight!
Some tips: Don't overset the rivets. This will put pressure on the surface
and wedge, and cause wow in the trailing edge. Don't use rivets that are
too long. The temptation is to try to completely fill the shop side of the
double flush hole. This isn't necessary, and besides, they're on the bottom
where they won't be seen.
Hope that my explanation makes sense. I'm sure that other builders will
have more suggestions and improvements on this method.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
>
> Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to
> align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very
> little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin,
clecoing
> the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded
> double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything
I
> could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using
> "Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight
> surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the
> riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces
> together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I
> had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask
> for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement,
> "Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to
the
> cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film
> (this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to
> dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because,
when
> it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good?
> Bad? Indifferent?
>
> Thomas C. Grant
> 30900, still struggling with the Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
Oh yeah, Proseal. I understand the proseal is only to keep the outside
edges from curling up, not to hold the assembly in place.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Grant" <tgrant(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces
>
> Last night I fought with getting the trailing edges of my left elevator to
> align and mate squarely. Fortunately, they came into alignment with very
> little adjustment. I match drilled the AEX wedge and the top skin,
clecoing
> the assembly to my work-surface as I drilled. Before I attempt the dreaded
> double-flush rivet dance, I went out on the net and pulled down everything
I
> could find about this task. It seems that most of you guys/gals are using
> "Proseal" as a temporary "hold-together" then clecoing to a straight
> surface, ie worktable surface or angle, wait for it dry and then begin the
> riveting process. I assume that the impetus here is to bring the surfaces
> together on a straight plane and keep them there until riveted together. I
> had a somewhat unorthodox idea about the bonding agent and thought I'd ask
> for opinions before proceeding forward. What about using contact cement,
> "Weldwood". It's the stuff that cabinet-makers use to adhere Formica to
the
> cabinet surfaces. This stuff goes on the mating surfaces as a thin film
> (this is good, no thick Proseal to keep the surfaces untrue), allowed to
> dry, and then mated. You have to be careful when you place it, because,
when
> it touches, it's there! So, how be the consensus about this stuff? Good?
> Bad? Indifferent?
>
> Thomas C. Grant
> 30900, still struggling with the Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Subject: | Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
Thomas
I only have two things to add to Dale Larsen's reply.
First, I want to re-emphasize Van's instructions under "Finishing the
Right Elevator Trailing Edge" that state as follows: " When back
riveting the trailing edge, start driving with the gun held parallel to
the rivet and tilt the gun perpendicular to the skin while driving ".
If you start driving with the gun perpendicular to the skin, you will
bend the rivet toward the leading edge of the control surface.
Second, to anyone on the list, when you get to the wing drawings, you
will find that the rivet callouts for the flap and aileron trailing
edges are AN426AD3-3's. I had forgotten that -3.5's were used in the
empennage and found out the hard way that -3's were too short. Van's
agreed that -3.5s should have been called out there also. I don't know
when drawing revisions might start showing this correction.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
> When you get to the wing drawings, you
> will find that the rivet callouts for the flap and aileron trailing
> edges are AN426AD3-3's. I had forgotten that -3.5's were used in the
> empennage and found out the hard way that -3's were too short. Van's
> agreed that -3.5s should have been called out there also. I don't know
> when drawing revisions might start showing this correction.
>
Hmmmmm. . . .
I used 3's on my ailerons and flaps and although they looked short to me,
the trailing edges seem to be holding together just fine.
I was very tempted to use 3.5s, but a story in the RVator last year said the
secret to double-flush riveting is to NOT completely fill the dimple with
the shop head. I figured this was the reason the plans called for 3's.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
Contact cement is exactly what I used. I clamped the three parts together
then back riveted them.
They came out looking very good. Make sure use a long backriveting plate
mine is 31 inches long and embeded in the table. Set the rivets as
described in the manual and you should be ok. Drive them all at once from
one side and you take the chance of having a crooked trailing edge.
Gene 90557 #2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Oliveira <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Setting the trailing edge of the control surfaces |
I did it exactly as recommended by VANS in their instructions and they
came out as close to perfect as I can recognize. I wrote something
about it last year, but don't still have it around.
When all else fails, just follow the instructions!
John Oliveira, N909RV #90054
Wings almost done.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Neil Henderson" <Neil.Mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
Subject: | Subject Elevator trailing edges |
Subject Elevator trailing edges.
I've just finished mine and they turned out spot on. I used a thin coat
of epoxy on the ally wedge and
Clecoed every hole to the bench. When set the assembly is as straight as
an arrow. Riveting is a now a doodle with no fear of
Introducing any warps. I also found the length of rivet called out a
little short and used 3.5's as per the elevators.
I'm now working on the flaps an in my opinion there is a misalignment in
the holes in the end rib relative to the holes in the
Reinforcing / actuating arm. In fact if you look at the drawing the
holes in question are miss registered. As the assembly drawing is
probably CAD generated from the parts drawings it shows the position of
the holes in both parts. I drilled new holes to achieve proper
alignment.
Neil Henderson
Rv9-A Builder Aylesbury England
Wings nearly finished
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 |
I bought the leading edge landing light from VANS but wondering if that was
a mistake.
My thought is that rather than cut a hole in the wing it might be simpler
(and cheaper and lighter) to install a landing light in the glass tip beside
the nav light. I have seen no discussion of this. Thoughts?
Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 |
http://vondane.com/rv8a/landlightkit/ check out this site it may be what
you are looking for.
Gene 90557
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 |
> I bought the leading edge landing light from VANS but wondering
> if that was
> a mistake.
>
> My thought is that rather than cut a hole in the wing it might be simpler
> (and cheaper and lighter) to install a landing light in the glass
> tip beside
> the nav light. I have seen no discussion of this. Thoughts?
>
> Steve.
Definitely a mistake! The location is fine, but the kit is far overpriced
and not a very good design. I bought 2 of them & should have sent them back,
as I ended modifying most all of the parts to suit my installation. You can
buy everything you need to make your own for less than $30 for both lights.
Send 'em back, make your own!
S. Todd Bartrim
13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (finish kit)
C-FSTB (reserved)
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 |
On the other hand, I was very happy with the installation. One in each
wing, easy installation and looks pretty good to me. I replaced the bulb
with a brighter one but that's all. I thought about-but didn't do-the
modification discussed here about making them adjustable.
FWIW
Albert Gardner
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Aircraft Finishing Systems |
I have decided to use AFS one part primer/sealer for this project. Can
any one tell me if there is a "life" on this primer after it reduced
with distilled water ? If not I would like to mix it a gallon at a
time. The last primer I used was Trio two part polyurethane from Napa
Auto parts. It was a good primer but I wasted a lot of mixing up too
much of it.
Gene 90557 empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
Gene.....Andy Karmy used that system.
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/rv9priming.htm
If I paint this thing myself I will use their finish paint. It is
waterbourne (NOT water-based) polyurethane, and non-hazardous to use. I
went to their forum and they also came here to give us a seminar on
their systems. Excellent stuff. They have gotten some undeserved bad
press from people who have used solvent-based systems for so long that
they thought they did not need to follow the directions. It takes a
different application technique to turn out nice and glossy. Not hard,
just different.
Gary
I have decided to use AFS one part primer/sealer for this project.
Can
any one tell me if there is a "life" on this primer after it reduced
with distilled water ? If not I would like to mix it a gallon at a
time. The last primer I used was Trio two part polyurethane from Napa
Auto parts. It was a good primer but I wasted a lot of mixing up too
much of it.
Gene 90557 empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
Thanks Gary it is Andys site that put me on to AFS. I sprayed all the horz.
and some of the rudder today and am not too happy about the way it came out,
and yes I did follow the instructions. The container says to reduce to
18-20 sec. and the website says 20-25. I mixed on pint of distilled water
to one quart primer and that made about 19 secs. Perhaps that is too thin
as when I put the final medium coat it ran like water. I am going to
contact AFS tomorrow and find out what gives. I will pass on the info.
Gene 90557 empennage.......riveting again!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
Ok, here's what I've found out about the 1 part primer sealer thus far...
First, I have not had good luck keeping mixed up paint. I tried putting some in
a jar after spraying and it hardened up by the next time I needed some. Thus
I've been just mixing as I go.
Now 1 quart water to 1 quart paint seems like way too thin... I don't measure the
water any more, and I don't even use the M50 anymore, so it's just kind of
by feel. After 30 batches you get used to how much it needs and what it looks
like in the cup. You really want it thicker than thin to get good results.
Next it seems like you are putting too much paint out. Or it's too cold?
I have no end of troubles with runs if the weather is cold (less than 65deg) when
I'm spraying. Yesterday with the sun out and 75 outside as fast as I sprayed
it was dry (or so it seemed). Make sure you set the gun to give just a mist
for the first cross coat to get it attached to teh surface. Then you can go just
a bit heaver. You don't want a "wet" coat... On my gun it's half a turn of
the needle from the mist setting (which is about 1 turn out from closed). This
will vary by gun type etc.
Hope you can get it all worked out. I'm just finishing the last of the metal in
the kit and have had great results using AFS products. In the next couple weeks
I'll be painting the interior so I'll give a report on how that goes later.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:04:33 -0700
>
>Thanks Gary it is Andys site that put me on to AFS. I sprayed all the horz.
>and some of the rudder today and am not too happy about the way it came out,
>and yes I did follow the instructions. The container says to reduce to
>18-20 sec. and the website says 20-25. I mixed on pint of distilled water
>to one quart primer and that made about 19 secs. Perhaps that is too thin
>as when I put the final medium coat it ran like water. I am going to
>contact AFS tomorrow and find out what gives. I will pass on the info.
>
>Gene 90557 empennage.......riveting again!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Not strictly a building question but something I have been puzzling about.
Since there is no wash out in the RV9 wings why does it have such benign
stalling characteristics? Surely most GA aircraft have significant washout.
Any aerodynamicists out there?
Steve
#90360
N Yorks., UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Leading Edge Light - LLDW09 |
Thanks for the help everyone. I think I will go the wingtip route but as
Albert sais its fine in the wings also. Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Leading Edge Light - LLDW09
On the other hand, I was very happy with the installation. One in each
wing, easy installation and looks pretty good to me. I replaced the bulb
with a brighter one but that's all. I thought about-but didn't do-the
modification discussed here about making them adjustable.
FWIW
Albert Gardner
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
...and if you scratch the painted surfaces, say with a knife, how well does this
H2O-bourne stuff hold up? Is it self-etching? Just curious. I've never
sprayed it before.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aerodynamics |
I'm no Chanute, but from general knowledge and a lot of hours messing with
a simulator model, I'd say it has a lot to do with the airfoil and wing plan.
The straight, large, square flying surfaces and fair amount of dihedral would
provide
a predictable stall, and the Roncz airfoil with its upturned trailing edge would
account for the "benign" feel that sets the 9 apart from all other models. It's
just a slippery wing that likes to fly (technically speaking... ;
) I'm
looking
forward to investigating these stalls some more real soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
I called AFS today and got some good info.. They said that 18 sec was
probably too thin ( 1 pt to 1 qt..) They are supposed to get back to me on
the correct M 50 time. As I think I said the container says one thing the
web site another. The biggest hint came when we were discussing paint guns.
I thought we were on the same page as far as HVLP was concerned until I was
told to adjust the gun pressure to about 25 psi. We were talking two
different guns, mine is a turbine HVLP and they were talking about the
conversion type HVLP. With a turbine you have very warm air and when doing
the mist coats it was actually drying as hit the surface making for an
orange peel look. The runs were simply too much paint.
The suggestion for the warm air was to add a length of hose, or put some of
the hose in cold water to cool it off, and to try a little heavier mixture.
I'll give that a try but if that doesn't help then its off to Harbor Freight
for there gun, I think that is the gun Andy is using.
Gene 90557 onward and upward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Finishing Systems |
Gary.....my understanding from the AFS presentations is that their
coating is polyurethane. The physical properties are listed on the web
site, and compare very favorably with other polyurethanes. It is very
flexible and has a high gloss.
It is catalyzed with cyanide, (I think it is), just like any
polyurethane. The reason it is not hazardous to us humans is that they
have found a way to apply it in a water-borne form, and the arsenic has
such a great affinity for water that it does not get into your soft,
fragile bod.
You still need a respirator, obviously. And you need to apply it in
several very thin, light, mist coats. They recommend an HVLP gun that
is not the turbine type, since that heats the spray and makes it almost
impossible to apply it without drying as it hit the surface. Spray
techniques and flash times and recoat times need to be adhered to, and
the thinner the coating you end up with the better. Some painters
experienced with solvent-based systems have tried it their way, and
ended up with a very rough finish because they put on excessively heavy
coats.
This is just from memory of a workshop last fall, so I may not have it
all right. Check out http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/about-us.htm or
call Tammy or Paul Yedinack at AFS. Their contact info is on the web
site.
Gary
...and if you scratch the painted surfaces, say with a knife, how well
does this
H2O-bourne stuff hold up? Is it self-etching? Just curious. I've
never
sprayed it before.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Roberts" <bonanza36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Want to trade your 9QB for My 7QB? |
RV9 List,
I have a late August/early September delivery position for a 7QB. I
would like to trade for a position for a 9QB. My empennage is finished
but the rudder will need to be replaced with the new design. Van's says
that the QB kits are all the same when they come from the Philippines so
my kit can be delivered with your choice of canopy or gear style.
If I change my order with Van's I will have to go to the back of the
line (9 months). Anyone interested in a trade?
Thanks,
John Roberts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Bad email going around to RV listers |
Beware of email from "RV8R300" with a title "Hi { your-name }" It contains a
virus.
This just hit me twice, I presume from the two RV related lists I frequent.
This goes to show the importance of both virus protection, and using a
meaningful title string in your email messages. Normally I would never open a
message with the title "Hi", but considering the familiar ring of the senders
name, I fell for it. No damage done, Norton nailed it instantly.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
Subject: | Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit |
06/13/2002 03:12:34 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/13/2002 03:12:34 PM
Best I recall it was 4x4x8 or 10
I would use at least a 12 foot trailer.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL 90288
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit |
From: | vcordero(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I have the finishing box sitting outside my garage.
The box is 8 ft Long, 5 ft Wide and 3 ft high.
Weight is 300 pounds. Two average guys can handle the box.
thx,
Victor Cordero, Long Island, NY
RV9A, Eggenfellner Subaru
#90319
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Fabian Lefler
Subject: Compressor-Tool Bench
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FLEFLER@broward.org.06.13.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | List Browsing Feature! |
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature
of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet
Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List
Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any
given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that
have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject,
Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads.
A number of List members have written to say that they love the List
Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout
the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the
Digest issue to come out.
You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and
clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Keith Bedell" <bedelk(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | XDP4000X-List: unhappy |
All-
I hooked up my xdp-4000x and it sounds like crap. I ordered the necessary cable
from online and tried to tune it, but it just got worse. Is there something missing
htat I need to do to get it to work. When I bypass it with rca splitters
the res of my system works like a charm. I have the 6001ES running three 10'
ES subs. Then 2 1805 ES's handling everything else. Aside from the problems with
the 4x, there is a huge disparity between cd volume and radio volume. I mean
huge!!!. I can max out radio volume and it sounds ok, then pop in a cd and
half way blows mee out of the cab. Any ideas, I anm just so dissapointed right
now....
From: Matt Dralle <DRALLE(at)MATRONICS.COM>
Reply-To: xdp4000x-list(at)matronics.com
To: Email-Lists(at)matronics.com
Subject: XDP4000X-List: List Browsing Feature!
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:52:33 -0700
-- XDP4000X-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature
of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet
Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List
Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any
given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that
have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject,
Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads.
A number of List members have written to say that they love the List
Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout
the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the
Digest issue to come out.
You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and
clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Enjoy!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Box Size of Finishing Kit |
>> The box is 8 ft Long, 5 ft Wide and 3 ft high. Weight is 300 pounds.
Two average guys can handle the box. Victor Cordero, Long Island, NY RV9A,
Eggenfellner Subaru <<
The size of the box may vary depending upon the options/extras. My order
was pretty standard - and agreed with the documentation at Vans website.
That is roughly 8' by 4' by 27". It is a hair undersize - perhaps to get
through a 4' opening. A little over 300 lbs (320???).
However, you need more than two people - if you need to do anything more
than just slide it off, tip it, etc. In my case we had to offload the box
and carry it about 30' through pretty heavy snow. I had six people - good
thing because two of them fell trying to protect the shipment. Wonderful
guys - really focused! The box was "sawdust board" - very slippery for
winter handling/carrying. Next time I would build a rope harness and carry
it by the rope. If you can back up a truck to the actual door you need four
people. Spring for a full case of good beer!
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 20% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Reserving "N" Number |
I called my local FSDO and inquired about the procedure for reserving an
N number. I was told that all I had to do was send a letter to Oklahoma
City with 5 choices and the fee. I can't believe the FAA doing anything
without the proper form. Was this info correct? If not please enlighten
me !
One more question. I just purchased a complete FWF 0-320 A1A. Is
the any chance that the exhaust system will work on my RV-9A ? I
understand that engine originally came from a Piper.
Gene 90557 Vert. and Horz. Stab finished, working on rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Reserving "N" Number |
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
You can reserve an N number on the FAA web site. I got mine within just
a few days. www.faa.gov You get 5 choices and a last choice. I ended
up getting ours by including "any number ending in 9RV" since my first
five were already taken.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
On Sunday, June 16, 2002, at 07:52 PM, Gene wrote:
>
> I called my local FSDO and inquired about the procedure for reserving an
> N number. I was told that all I had to do was send a letter to Oklahoma
> City with 5 choices and the fee. I can't believe the FAA doing anything
> without the proper form. Was this info correct? If not please enlighten
> me !
>
> One more question. I just purchased a complete FWF 0-320 A1A. Is
> the any chance that the exhaust system will work on my RV-9A ? I
> understand that engine originally came from a Piper.
>
> Gene 90557 Vert. and Horz. Stab finished, working on rudder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com |
HOWDY EVERYBODY. 6-16-02
I'D LIKE TO HANG MY HOROZONTAL STAB. FROM THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE TO
SAVE FLOOR ROOM. THE RAFTERS ARE EXPOSED , SO IT SHOULD BE EASIER. HANG IT
FLAT OR VERTICALLY? I HAVE A 10 FOOT CEILING.
IT SEEMS TO ME THAT HANGING IT VERTICALLY, BY THE CENTER SECTION, AND
SOME TYPE OF STABILIZATION AT THE TIP TO STOP ANY SWAYING WOULD BE OK. ANY
THOUGHTS?
THANKS
DAVID 90079
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: HOROZ. STAB. |
>> I'D LIKE TO HANG MY HOROZONTAL STAB. FROM THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE TO
SAVE FLOOR ROOM. THE RAFTERS ARE EXPOSED , SO IT SHOULD BE EASIER. HANG IT
FLAT OR VERTICALLY? I HAVE A 10 FOOT CEILING.... <<
David and others: I had made two simple jigs (two pieces of plywood with
cut-outs traced from a rib), in order to hold the H.Stabs during
construction. When finished I attached a bracket to each, and screwed them
to wall right up at the 9' ceiling. You could attach them to the ceiling,
not much harder to do. I secured the H.Stab with a couple of bungies, to
hold the stabilizer tight, and for backup. I was able to support each
H.Stab at about mid point - at a place where there were ribs underneath.
There was about 3" above the stabilizer so the whole thing took less than a
foot from the ceiling of the garage. Worked very well.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 20% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Reserving "N" Number |
Several RVers had reported that that they were unable to actually use the N
number they reserved. Apparently the database of numbers available for
reservation is not quite the same as the numbers available for registration.
It appears that you find out if there is a difference only when you try to
register your reserved number. Fortunately, this only appears to be a
problem in a small number of cases.Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: HOROZ. STAB. |
When I was painting my HS, I stuck 2 pieces of wooden rod (the wooden rod
you hang clothes on in your closet) about of 3 or 4 feet into each end
through the lightening holes in the ribs to hold it. If you put a piece of
Styrofoam sheet on top for protection against scratching from the ceiling it
works well for that also.
Albert Gardner
Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: HOROZ. STAB. |
Hi Dave,
I put an AN-3 bolt through two of the elevator hing brackets, and then hung
it on storage hooks ( the kind you buy at the hardware store for hanging
tools, bikes, etc) that I screwed into the rafter in my garage. It has been
safely hanging there for over a year now.
Dennis Thomas
RV 9A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Subject: | RV-9A Flap Assy, Dwg 14 |
Ref: Neil Henderson's June 8 msg, Subject: Elevator trailing edges.
Neil and other RV-9 Builders
Since the wing is a constant chord design, all of the parts shown in the
Right Side View of Dwg 14 are either parallel or perpendicular to the
plane of the face of the drawing, except for the web of the FL-905-L
main rib and the aft part of the FL-906B-L plate. The apparent ' miss
register ' of the mating holes in those two parts is because it is a
true view of them as they appear in a plane approx 10 degrees off the
face of the drawing. Note that you can see both edges of the aft end of
the plate just to the left of the rod end. Also see the plate as shown
in Section B-B. If your Dwg 14 does not incorporate Revision 1, see The
RVator second issue, 2001, which shows the two pre-punched holes in the
rib web for the proper alignment of the rib and plate. I hope this will
provide some clarity for fellow builders.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Any 9-9A builders interested in meeting at Airventure? |
Sure I would love to meet up with others at the big show!
Me and the family will be driving (yes driving) out from Seattle. Maby next year
we can fly in the RV!
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - 169AK
Working on fuselage finishing
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "rjsflyer" <rjs1(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 03:12:18 -0000
>Just wondered if 9-9A builders from the group would be interested in
>meeting while in Oshkosh? It would be nice to meet some of the group
>that may be attending. Van's 9-9A forum is Wednesday (7/24) morning
>at 10:00am so maybe a good time would be at the conclusion of the
>forum. Post a reply here and let's see how many out there would be
>interested.
>
>Rick Schwandt
>RV-9A N856RS
>Emp.
>
>
>Free $5 Love Reading
>Risk Free!
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/3PCXaC/PfREAA/Ey.GAA/SyTolB/TM
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov> |
Subject: | [RV-9A] Any 9-9A builders interested in meeting atAirventure? |
Gang,
I plan on being at Oshkosh as well. I look forward to meeting
you fella's there. Like most of you, I'll be driving in from New
Mexico.
We need some kind of sign or specific rendezvous location
(ei, front left corner of tent) were we can get together after
the Wed., 10:00an forum.
Any suggestions?
Rob
RV-9A, fuselage
****************************************
Robert M. Whitaker
Los Alamos National Laboratory
MS D448, Los Alamos, NM 87545
Phone: 505-667-1466
Pager: 888-947-5665
FAX: 505-665-4657
E-mail: rmwhitaker(at)lanl.gov
****************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
Subject: | Ceramic coated exhaust systems. |
I am very interested in trying this on the exhaust system in my RV9. I
am a however little confused by the following.
David Wilks wrote
> Again, I will suggest ceramic coatings. Ceramics for exhaust systems
are now in the areas of 2600 degrees in thermal barrier strength. I
have coated turbos and headers that you could touch with the hand while
an engine was idling. Furthermore they increase the power output of
your engine due to their added thermal efficiency by moving hotter
exhaust gases faster. Also a gain is that you reduce the intake charge
temp, netting a denser and cooler intake mixture. This is a benefit
everywhere. I do not suggest wrapping of headers or intake pipes. This
is very dangerous as it creates thermal hotspots that are uneven and
will ruin the strength of the steel you are using. In most cases it
causes accelerated fatigue, cracking and eventual failures.
This appears contradictory and I am unclear as to whether coating,
(wrapping), the headers is a good idea or not.
Perhaps David (and others maybe) would be kind enough to explain and
possibly suggest exact processes that are satisfactory.
Thanks
Rob
Rob W M Shipley rob(at)robsglass.com
RV9A N919RV resvd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank |
Does anyone know the angular rotation of the bellcrank for full up / down
movement of the ailerons? I think from the neutral position the numbers are
not the same. (I am trying to work out how far up the crank I have to instal
the pin for the Navaid in order to use its entire 'throw').
Hope someone can help. Thanks, Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Redbaron2010(at)aol.com |
Subject: | remove from this list |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank |
Hi Steve:
I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know
the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you
just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty
wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw.
Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them
for the specifics of how and where they connected it up.
My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo
and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there
may be more required.
Thanks
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TruTrak Flight Systems" <info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank |
Trutrak's new autopilot, the Digitrak, will install in the RV-9 with only a
bracket supplied by Trutrak, which replaces the existing lower bellcrank
support bracket. The installation has already all been planned, and can be
done in a few hours. There are six wires that have to be ran for the
trutrak. We recommend running the MAC servo wire, and one other for power.
If anyone has any questions about the Digitrak, the can either call TruTrak
at (479)751-0250 or E-mail at info(at)trutrakflightsystems.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Brandvold" <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Bellcrank
>
> Hi Steve:
> I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know
> the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you
> just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty
> wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw.
> Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them
> for the specifics of how and where they connected it up.
>
> My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo
> and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there
> may be more required.
>
> Thanks
> Jim Brandvold
> N209RV (Reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kenneth condrell" <drkencondrell(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | REMOVE FROM RV9 LIST |
PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THE RV9 LIST.
THANK YOU
KEN CONDRELL
drkencondrell(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
My kit came with the ventilation system parts SV-1, SV-2 and SV-5, but
it did not include the Vent hose SV-3 nor the needed 2" hose clamps,
AN737TW-66. Has anybody else gotten these parts or resolved this
question?
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Missing parts? |
CALL vAN'S. THEY WILL TAKE CARE OF IT.
BAARY POTE RV9A FUSELAGE DO NOT ARCHICE
federigo(at)pacbell.net wrote:
>
>
> My kit came with the ventilation system parts SV-1, SV-2 and SV-5, but
> it did not include the Vent hose SV-3 nor the needed 2" hose clamps,
> AN737TW-66. Has anybody else gotten these parts or resolved this
> question?
> Leland
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank |
Jim - from memory - I'm 99% sure - it is one power and two signal wires.
With regard to my question, yes I know the max travel on the servo is 2.4",
but what I am trying to ascertain is how far up the bellcrank to attach the
servo pushrod. I think the pushrod from the stick moves more than 2.4". What
I was hoping was that someone knew howmuch the bellcrank rotated in order to
achieve full deflection of the ailerons. Ideally one would attach the
pushrod at a point where it required the servo to use almost (but not quite)
its full 2.4" range.
Regards, Steve.
PS I did contact VANS. They did not want to give out their drawing. I
ascertained they mounted their servo on the tip with a long push rod. I am
going for the bay beside the bellcrank, and a short pushrod.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Brandvold
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Bellcrank
Hi Steve:
I am also going to install the Navaid autopilot. I don't know
the answer to your question but the Navaid site says that you
just need between 1.5 - 2.4 inches of travel. This is a pretty
wide range and the bellcrank should provide adequate throw.
Vans put one in their RV-9 tail drager so you can contact them
for the specifics of how and where they connected it up.
My question is, how many wires are needed between the servo
and the control unit? I've run 2 but got to thinking that there
may be more required.
Thanks
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Subject: | Any 9-9/A builders interested in meeting at Airventure |
I too, would be interested in meeting with other builders after Van's
forum on Wednesday, 7-24.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips |
Some time ago, I remember reading a very complete description of how to
fiberglass the open portions of the Horizontal Stabilizer and Rudder
Fiberglass tips.
It indicated just how to tape the parts to the right dimensions, what type
of foam to use, what type of epoxy to use, etc.
Unfortunately, I can't remember where I read this information, nor can I
find it again.
Can someone re-post this source?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Any 9-9/A builders interested in meeting at Airventure |
I expect to be at the Wednesday Forum.
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips |
I don't know if you were referring to my description, but I'll point you to it
anyway.
Surf to: http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/fuselage.htm
And scroll down to, or search for:
Fun Fabricating Fashionable Foam Fillers For Fiberglass Features
...hey epoxy fumes always do that to me...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
While "adjusting" the contour of the WD-640 Canopy Frame to match the curves
of the Roll Bar and Aft Top Skin, some of the paint started popping off the
frame when it was flexed.
It looks like I'm going to have to remove all of the paint from the forward
bar.
Did anyone else have this problem?
What's the best way to get the rest of the paint off?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
I had the same problem. The shape of the canopy frame was poor compared to
the roll bar. I scraped the loose and cracked paint and feathered the rough
edges with sand paper. I then primed the bare spots and applied Krylon (I
think it was Pewter Grey) enamel paint with a small art brush. Not a
perfect match, but the Powder Coat that cracked off was on the outside of
the bar and is not visable not that I have installed the canopy. Dick
Jones 90067
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
>
> While "adjusting" the contour of the WD-640 Canopy Frame to match the
curves
> of the Roll Bar and Aft Top Skin, some of the paint started popping off
the
> frame when it was flexed.
>
> It looks like I'm going to have to remove all of the paint from the
forward
> bar.
>
> Did anyone else have this problem?
>
> What's the best way to get the rest of the paint off?
>
> Dave
> 90347
> Finishing Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Whaat are folk doing about wing wiring?
1. Are you planning on a joint inside the fuse or contiguous to the paanel.
(I would prefer no joint but it seems to move lots of work to assembly at
the airport.)
2. What route do people plan from the wing root to behind the panel. Through
the floor alongside the fuel or under the cockpit coming?
Would welcome thoughts on both of the above.
Regards, Steve.
#90360
N Yorks., UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Steve:
I ran the wiring through the wing before riveting the last skin on.
I just left enough to route through the fuselage next to the
fuel lines. This may use slightly more wire but it is relatively
cheap and ends up with no joints in the wires.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
Vans sells spray bombs of the grey paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing the HS & Rudder Tips |
Gary,
Good to hear that you plan on Sun-N-Fun next year. I will look for you
there.
You may have a visitor some day soon. Mike Okrent was down here in Houston
this weekend and visited my hanger for a while. Since he lives in Conn. he
said he may come up and see how your plane is coming along. He is a SLOW
builder. Wings this year and fuselage next year. Trying to keep the building
spirit up.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
The only paint I see on Van's site is the small bottle of "touch up paint".
Do you know an a part number?
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
>
> Vans sells spray bombs of the grey paint.
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02 |
Has anyone installed the GretzAero "Alternate Mounting" kit for the electric
elevator trim? Thoughts? Opinions? Does it affect functionality?
Thanks,
Matthew
N523RV
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
I don't know the part number off hand, but it has been mentioned in this
newsgroup before. Maybe a search will find it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Steve,
Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came down
on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in Molex/Amp
pin connectors. I wanted to have as much done as possible before moving to the
airport and didn't want to leave a big length of wire to pull later. I plan
to wire up both sides with a 6 pin connector to handle landing lights, strobes,
and position lights.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - Seattle WA
Wiring!
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
>What are folk doing about wing wiring?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Pitot tube at wing root |
> Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I came
> down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in
> Molex/Amp pin connectors.
What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of
putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the
fuselage. Any thoughts?
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube at wing root |
For Electrical, I intend to use terminal strips at the wing roots. I feel
they will be more secure and corrosion resistant than a plug.
For the Pitot Tube I'm thinking of installing a bulkhead coupling on the
last rib and then bringing nylon tubing into the fuselage to the back of the
panel. I've got the Gretz Heated Pitot Tube System, so there are two lines
to deal with.
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
>
>
> > Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I
came
> > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in
> > Molex/Amp pin connectors.
>
> What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking
of
> putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the
> fuselage. Any thoughts?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Andy - thanks. Yes I am leaning that way to. Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing wiring
Steve,
Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I
came down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in
Molex/Amp pin connectors. I wanted to have as much done as possible before
moving to the airport and didn't want to leave a big length of wire to pull
later. I plan to wire up both sides with a 6 pin connector to handle landing
lights, strobes, and position lights.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - Seattle WA
Wiring!
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
>What are folk doing about wing wiring?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Pitot tube at wing root |
Mark. It made little sense to me to use an aluminium (or even aluminum) tube
all the way down the wing and then change to a plastic tube at the wing
root. I have purchased enough tube to go from the wing fitting to the panel
in one hop. This will save a leaking joint and is probably lighter. Its
cheap and would not be difficult to replace if it ever became necessary.
I may well split the electric wiring at the wing root but I think I will be
able to find time to pull the pitot line through when I finally put it
together.
Regards, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Schrimmer
Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
> Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I
came
> down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in
> Molex/Amp pin connectors.
What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking of
putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the
fuselage. Any thoughts?
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Pitot tube at wing root |
Dave - are what you call 'terminal strips' things you can push fastons onto?
I cant find them in aeroelectric catalogue. Have you seen them there? If
not, where? Thanks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
For Electrical, I intend to use terminal strips at the wing roots. I feel
they will be more secure and corrosion resistant than a plug.
For the Pitot Tube I'm thinking of installing a bulkhead coupling on the
last rib and then bringing nylon tubing into the fuselage to the back of the
panel. I've got the Gretz Heated Pitot Tube System, so there are two lines
to deal with.
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
>
>
> > Like most everything on these planes, this one is a divided opinion... I
came
> > down on the side of cutting the wires at the wing root and putting in
> > Molex/Amp pin connectors.
>
> What's everyone doing to the pitot tube at the wing root? I was thinking
of
> putting an AN fitting on the inboard rib before the tube enters the
> fuselage. Any thoughts?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube at wing root |
Steve,
Take a look at Gary Newstad's Web page:
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/wing/e_sta86.jpg
He's using terminal Strips in the Wings in several places. I don't know
where he is getting them, but I'm sure an e-mail to him will solve the
mystery.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
>
> Dave - are what you call 'terminal strips' things you can push fastons
onto?
> I cant find them in aeroelectric catalogue. Have you seen them there? If
> not, where? Thanks, Steve.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
In checking for Touch Up Paint in Cans on the matronics site, I found a
reference to Cardinal Industrial Finishes back on April 17,2000. (
http://www.cardinalpaint.com/ )
They make the powder coat Van's uses (Cardinal Gray 230) as well as cans of
matching paint (T009GR230).
I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to
Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some general
information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the inside
cockpit area as well.
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
>
>
> I don't know the part number off hand, but it has been mentioned in this
> newsgroup before. Maybe a search will find it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
> I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to
> Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some general
> information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the inside
> cockpit area as well.
I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle can
will hold up?
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
I have found several references in the Matronics Archives on using
Cardinal's Spray Can Paint with excellent results.
Message: #71887 Date: May 19, 2000 From: Ken Balch Subject: Cardinal
paint info
Message: #71889 Date: May 19, 2000 From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: Cardinal
paint info
Based on this, I'm going to go ahead and plan on using the cans of Cardinal
Paint, although, my "interior decorator" has advised me the color needs to
be "tan" rather than "gray".
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
I'm going to
---- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint
>
>
> > I contacted the Dallas Area Cardinal Office (972 206-1003) and talked to
> > Vick Salinas. He is sending out some paint charts as well as some
general
> > information. It looks like I might want to use their paint for the
inside
> > cockpit area as well.
>
> I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle
can
> will hold up?
>
>
> Mark Schrimmer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02 |
Here's how I see it:
Pro's
1. Lighter Weight (no "extra lead" on the Left Elevator Counterweight)
2. Better electrical connections (no flexing wires, everything is in the
fuselage)
3. Better Weight Distribution (weight of Servo is further forward in the
Fuselage)
4. Easy conversion (both Manual & Servo System)
Con's:
1. Additional Cost ($61)
2. Additional Parts (Cable & clevises)
3. Flexible Cable (rather than solid Clevis/Pushrod)
4. Custom Parts (Cable & Clevises)
5. Harder to reach for inspection and servicing (must remove Empennage
Fairing)
All things considered, I'm going to install the standard Servo System, with
the option to install the GretzAero System later.
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: RE: RV9-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/30/02
>
> Has anyone installed the GretzAero "Alternate Mounting" kit for the
electric
> elevator trim? Thoughts? Opinions? Does it affect functionality?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matthew
> N523RV
> Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Roberts" <bonanza36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Wanted: 9(A) Quickbuild kit |
I would like to buy your 9/9A quickbuild kit outright or swap my
September '02 RV7(A) quickbuild delivery position for your RV9(A)
delivery position. I have completed the tail for the 7 but the rudder
will need to be replaced with the new design.
John Roberts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube at wing root |
I mostly use AMP FlexiStrip terminal strips. You can get these from ACS. They
come in long flexible strips of individual pairs. You cut them off after
however many terminals you need and then cut a rigid base piece that they slide
into. They're good quality, but they don't come with #6 flat washers or
lockers, so you have to buy those separately.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube at wing root |
One of the reasons for using a connector at the wing root harness is to assure
a
quick and clean departure (i.e. spark-free) of a wing in the event of an unhappy
landing. This is why Van designed the notched forward wing mount too. Another
reason would be for transportation should you ever need major repairs or perhaps
your local field is now a quiet TFR. Naaa that never happens! I used a flat
six waterproof connector (of automotive type), although this is one point where
a good quality cannon plug makes sense. There's nothing flight-critical in the
wings, so worrying about connector reliability here is not a big deal.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot tube at wing root |
I wonder which is better -- Terminal Strips or Plugs?
Terminal Strips are secure, but harder to connect the wires to after the
wing is attached.
Plugs are quick and easy, but need to be secured so they don't flop around.
Terminal Strips can be expanded if additional wiring is needed in the
future.
Plugs are waterproof and corrosion proof.
Terminal can carry large amounts of current (Pitot Heater @ <10 amp)
Plugs can carry large amounts of current too.
Terminal Strips can be easily inspected
Plugs are harder to inspect
Terminal Strips can be come loose
Pugs can also become loose
Other ideas and/or opinions?
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
You can buy acryllic/enamel in the same color as Van's powder coated
parts from Cardinal in South El Monte, California. The paint color
Van's uses is Cardinal Gray GR230 and their office number is
1-626-444-9274. You have to specify the percentage of gloss. I used high
gloss ( 90% gloss). The rattle cans sell for $4.80/can and requires a 6
can minimum. UPS charges a Hazmat fee on top of shipping.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
From what I have heard it will scratch, but works fairly well.
For those that I've converted over to the AFS primer system (ya I know, water based
stuff will never work, I can hear it now....)
The AFS "Smoke Grey" 2 part polyurathane top coat is a perfect match to Vans powercoat.
I just finished painting my interior with it and it looks great. It's
fairly light when seen in large amounts, but gives it a nice clean look. Just
not quite as bright as Gary's bright white!
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
>I was thinking of doing the same thing. I wonder how paint from a rattle can
>will hold up?
>
>Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
I sent an e-mail to Ken Balch asking how Cardinal Paint has worked for him,
now that his RV is flying. Here is his reply.
Mark Schrimmer
_______________________________
> Hi Ken,
>
> Over on the RV-9A list we're discussing Cardinal Paint for interior use.
> I was hoping you could give me some follow-up information to
> report to the 9A guys.
>
> 1. If you had to do it again, would you use the Cardinal Paint?
I would use Cardinal, but I'd have them make up something more durable than
the
acrylic enamel I used. Perhaps some urethane-based paint. I ordered the
enamel because it was available in spray cans and I was trying to avoid
having
to purchase an HVLP setup. Not to mention having to mix the paint, do the
clean up, etc. for every painting session. Not to mention having to
purchase a
fresh air breathing system and build a proper, ventilated paint booth. So I
went with the spray cans... :-)
> 2. Did you finally decide to put it on the bare metal or put it over the
> zinc chromate?
After shooting a couple of test pieces, I elected to apply the Cardinal
paint
over bare metal. It wound up WAY too soft when applied over the chromate.
You
could just about rub it off with your thumb; no scratching required.
> 3. Has the stuff held up OK to wear and tear?
Fairly well, though it does scratch easily even when fully cured. As I
said,
I'd probably get Cardinal to match the color in a more durable paint the
next
time around and just accept the pain-in-the-butt stuff (paint gun, breathing
system, paint booth, setup, cleanup, etc.) as the cost of a better result.
> 4. Any helpful hints you can pass on?
If you get the enamel that I got, let your painted parts sit in a
well-ventilated area for a couple of days after spraying before doing much
work
with or around them. It gets more durable (relatively speaking) after it's
had
a chance to cure a bit. Generally speaking, if you can't smell it anymore,
it's sat undisturbed for long enough.
> Thanks for your help.
De nada...
Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
Best Regards,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | Re: Interior Paint toughness (was cardinal paint) |
One more thing I forgot... My AFS poly, once cured for 24 hours has been very tough.
I am working on the floor boards all night long laying my wrenches and tools
on them and there are no scratches. Of course that's due to 2 part poly do
doubt. But it's a bit more trouble to spray than a rattel can that's for sure.
- Andy
3. Has the stuff held up OK to wear and tear?
Fairly well, though it does scratch easily even when fully cured. As I
said, I'd probably get Cardinal to match the color in a more durable paint the
next time around and just accept the pain-in-the-butt stuff (paint gun, breathing
system, paint booth, setup, cleanup, etc.) as the cost of a better result.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
I just talked to Bruce at Van's regarding the Cowling attachments. The
Cowling Attach Detail of DWG 45 shows AN257-P3 hinge (which takes a
0.090" pin) holding the top and bottom cowls together. All the rest of
the hinges use 1/8" pins, but bruce says to use 0.090" pins in the top
of the cowl where it attaches to the firewall, or you can't get the pins
all the way in.
I pointed out that sections B-B and R-R call for 0.020" spacers whereas
Detail F calls for 0.032" spacer. He said I would have to look at the
parts to try to figure this one out.
He also suggested that I consider using 0.062 plate for the bottom
cowling-firewall attachment with screws, nutplates and large diameter
washers. This is instead of the hinge as the eyelets have a tendency to
break off over time. Using screws does not look as good, so he does not
recommend this change where it shows.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Pitot tube at wing root |
Dave - what I think I want to do is somthing almost the same as the terminal
strip but with fastons. But I cant find such a product though it must exist.
Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Pitot tube at wing root
I wonder which is better -- Terminal Strips or Plugs?
Terminal Strips are secure, but harder to connect the wires to after the
wing is attached.
Plugs are quick and easy, but need to be secured so they don't flop around.
Terminal Strips can be expanded if additional wiring is needed in the
future.
Plugs are waterproof and corrosion proof.
Terminal can carry large amounts of current (Pitot Heater @ <10 amp)
Plugs can carry large amounts of current too.
Terminal Strips can be easily inspected
Plugs are harder to inspect
Terminal Strips can be come loose
Pugs can also become loose
Other ideas and/or opinions?
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cowl attachment |
>...instead of the hinge as the eyelets have a tendency to
> break off over time.
Must be a Lycoming vibration thing! ;
) Thanks for posting this. I stared at
sheet 45 for a long time and still didn't fully grasp how the hinges fit or
which size went where. Thus far, this has been the worst of the drawings. I
am interesting in knowing if any hinge is left-over, and if so, how much? I
need a short section for something else.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Frame Paint |
Hey Andy........ AFS works great just don't use it with a turbine HVLP (
unless you cool the air).
I called the people in Montana and got excellent help. I then went to
Harbor Freight and bought their $50.00 gun. I wasted about a third of the
two part primer I was using, at 184.00 per gallon that adds up!!
Thanks again,
Gene N557RV res. waiting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscibe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [With Good URL This Time!] Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
[Typo in the subscribe page URL last time - SORRY! -Matt]
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com |
I'M ASSEMBLING THE REAR SPAR: SHOULD I DIMPLE THE TOP FLANGE
OF THE REAR SPAR, ADJACENT THE REAR SPAR DOUBLERS (W-907D AND E) BEFORE I
RIVET THE DOUBLERS TO THE SPAR WEBBING? THE DRAWINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS DON'T
TELL MUCH HERE.
ALSO ARE TORQUE VALUES THE SAME FOR LOCKNUTS AS FOR NUTS WITH
LOCKWASHERS? CAN I USE THE LOCKNUTS ONLY ONCE OR IS A SECOND OR EVEN A
THIRD TIME STILL SAFE? I"VE BEEN TOSSING THEM OUT AFTER ONE USE.
THANKS DAVID MORGAN #90079
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: REAR SPAR ASSY. |
I didn't have any problem getting my dimpler dies into this space after
installing the doublers. The only place I found was tight was the inboard
end of the rear spar and the instruction tell you which holes you should
dimple ahead of time.
I use the same torque values for locknuts as well as nuts with lockwashers.
(Another practice is to add the "locknut torque" to the total torque to
compensate for the friction.)
The EAA web site says you can re-use locknuts as long as you can't tighten
them by hand. I have been putting a stack of washer under the nuts on bolts
I need to set temporarily. When I'm ready to torque them down preeminently,
I remove the extra washers. So far I have only had to re-use a few locknuts
a couple of times.
Dave Nicholson
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: REAR SPAR ASSY.
>
> I'M ASSEMBLING THE REAR SPAR: SHOULD I DIMPLE THE TOP FLANGE
> OF THE REAR SPAR, ADJACENT THE REAR SPAR DOUBLERS (W-907D AND E) BEFORE I
> RIVET THE DOUBLERS TO THE SPAR WEBBING? THE DRAWINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
DON'T
> TELL MUCH HERE.
> ALSO ARE TORQUE VALUES THE SAME FOR LOCKNUTS AS FOR NUTS
WITH
> LOCKWASHERS? CAN I USE THE LOCKNUTS ONLY ONCE OR IS A SECOND OR EVEN A
> THIRD TIME STILL SAFE? I"VE BEEN TOSSING THEM OUT AFTER ONE USE.
>
> THANKS DAVID MORGAN #90079
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Patty Gillies ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Patty Gillies
Subject: Fuel Selector Plate (labeling)
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gillies-patty@sc.edu.07.07.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Anto-rotation bracket |
Curious about what I might have done wrong.
I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to
the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for
the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I
measure everything now the holes may be a little tight in from the plans
although we're talking just a few thousanths here. Anyway, I foolishly
rushed in on one tank and drilled the holes to mount the bracket on the
access plate. As I was looking at how I would rivet the bracket to the
plate I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90
degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket prior to
riveting and the rivets are too close to the elbow to get a squeezer,
rivet set, or anything I have in. I pondered the thing for about an hour
and decided I would just go and build a wider one so I could spread out
the holes. Near as I can tell the bracket is only designed one inch wide
due to the tanks that have the center hole in the access plate for the
fuel float. With the capactive sender units that hole isn't there and
there is no need to have such a narrow bracket.
Am I missing something here.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
Into the Black Death- just like frosting a cake
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
I just installed the elevators to the stabilizer. I set the rod end
bearings at 13/16" as per the plans. The right elevator would swing ok
but there was 1/8" clearance between the aft edge of the elevator skin
and the counterbalance skin. This tapers down to almost nothing at the
forward edge of the elev. and the C/B skin. The left is much worse and
at 13/16" there is no gap at the forward edge between the C/B skin and
the elev. skin, the aft distance is about 3/32".
I tried moving the O/B rod end bearing to 7/8" ( the max as per the
plans) and the clearance gets a little better but now the rolled edge of
the skin wants to rub on rivets that attach the ribs to the aft spar of
the stab. at the inboard end!
What is going on? Has anyone else had this problem and what was there
solution?
Gene N557RV res. Wings Aug 5th.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken" <ken(at)peggyking.com> |
Subject: | Anto-rotation bracket |
Curt,
I just went thru that last month. Instead of following directions, after I
drilled the hole for the fitting, I cut out the top of the bracket so that
it looked like a "U". This way I could rivet the bracket to the plate, and
then install the plumbing. The anti-rotation feature still functions, but
it is a lot easier to install -- I hope my explaination is understandable, I
wish I could include a sketch.
Ken Anderson
working on wings in Seattle
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Anto-rotation bracket
Curious about what I might have done wrong.
I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to
the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for
the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I ..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Gene,
I had a similar problem with mine. The key question is, do you have your fiberglass
tips riveted on yet? I found that I had adjusted everything while building,
however when I put the tips on it pulled them out of alingment just a touch
and I had a clearance problem on one side.
I first got everything riveted and stable, then used the rod ends to adjust what
I could, then started at it with the file to create the gap I needed. I took
a bit off both the elevator and the stab side. It turns out that mine was heavy
anyways and I had to file the lead down along with the edge. After a bit of
filing it swings nicely now.
I don't think there's any magic, just make it work!
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - Seattle WA
Wiring & Panel cutting
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:11:25 -0700
>
>I just installed the elevators to the stabilizer. I set the rod end
>bearings at 13/16" as per the plans. The right elevator would swing ok
>but there was 1/8" clearance between the aft edge of the elevator skin
>and the counterbalance skin. This tapers down to almost nothing at the
>forward edge of the elev. and the C/B skin. The left is much worse and
>at 13/16" there is no gap at the forward edge between the C/B skin and
>the elev. skin, the aft distance is about 3/32".
>
>I tried moving the O/B rod end bearing to 7/8" ( the max as per the
>plans) and the clearance gets a little better but now the rolled edge of
>the skin wants to rub on rivets that attach the ribs to the aft spar of
>the stab. at the inboard end!
>
>What is going on? Has anyone else had this problem and what was there
>solution?
>
>Gene N557RV res. Wings Aug 5th.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | albert.gardner(at)att.net |
I'm trying to contact Kevin Shannon by phone to arrange
to meet at Arlington Thur or Friday. I'm at 928-941-1901
(wifes cell phone) or 541-926-4734 (friends homes in
Albany). Thanks. I'm planning on buying radios and gyros
there.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Anto-rotation bracket |
Several people mentioned making the bracket a "U" shape to avoid the
riveting issue. What a simple and great idea. I am going to do that. This
allows me to salvage the parts I already made. I wish I had thought of that.
I stared at those darn parts for over an hour and it never dawned on me to
cut out the top. Hell I was even thinking the top piece over the hole was
getting too thin for edge clearance. I've got to stop being a lurker and get
into this group a little more before I really screw something up.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Anto-rotation bracket
>
> Curious about what I might have done wrong.
> I built the anti-rotation bracket for the tanks fuel line according to
> the plans including drilling the mounting holes in the one flange for
> the two rivets before really seeing where this puppy would mount. As I
> measure everything now the holes may be a little tight in from the plans
> although we're talking just a few thousanths here. Anyway, I foolishly
> rushed in on one tank and drilled the holes to mount the bracket on the
> access plate. As I was looking at how I would rivet the bracket to the
> plate I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90
> degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket prior to
> riveting and the rivets are too close to the elbow to get a squeezer,
> rivet set, or anything I have in. I pondered the thing for about an hour
> and decided I would just go and build a wider one so I could spread out
> the holes. Near as I can tell the bracket is only designed one inch wide
> due to the tanks that have the center hole in the access plate for the
> fuel float. With the capactive sender units that hole isn't there and
> there is no need to have such a narrow bracket.
> Am I missing something here.
>
> Curt Hoffman
> RV-9A wings
> Into the Black Death- just like frosting a cake
> 1968 Mustang 302 convertible
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Krhill325(at)aol.com |
Subject: | anti-rotation bracket |
Curt Hoffman asked:
"Curious about what I might have done wrong.
I built the anti-rotation bracket ...
I couldn't see how to get anything I own in to rivet it. The 90
degree elbow for the fuel line has to be in the bracket..."
Curt, I also wondered about that problem, and how to remove the fuel pickup
if I ever needed to. I decided to cut the bracket hole to the edge of the
bracket, forming a "U" . It keeps the fuel pickup from turning, and allows
for pickup replacement if necessary. Also, the bracket can be riveted into
place, and then the pickup installed.
Kenneth Hill
Indianapolis
completing wings, fuselage awaits.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: [RV-9A] Re: Clearance? |
Sam ,
I used an AN 3-5 bolt that I had ground a point on the end. With the hex
head of the bolt next to one side of the ball it is very easy to get it
square and then measure at the point on the other side with a scale.
With this method I feel the measurements are fairly accurate. I had the
tips clecoed on so I pulled the tips off and now I had the proper
clearance between the counterbalance skin and the stab. Some how when
drilling the tips to the C/B skin I was able to pull or push and create
the problem. I will try to re-fit the tips by pulling the relief away
from the skin a little and re-drilling the holes and epoxy a small
washer over the "correct" hole as a backup for the pop rivet.
Thanks to all for the suggestions
Gene N557RV res.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: anti-rotation bracket |
Kurt, I think I have some pix of the one I did. I will look them up and
e-mail to you. If I recall think I positioned my pneumatic squeezer on one
and used my c-frame tool and had someone hold the plate level, I then used a
3# sledge on a flat head (long) die.
I must also tell you that I had to make a few due to mistakes. Pic coming at
you-Bob in Arkansas, SELLING WINGS! 6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: anti-rotation bracket |
If you look good you can see the rivet hole on right-there is another hidden
on left by the pick-up tube. The second pic is with proseal. Contact me off
list if you need more. I think I have some scrap brackets I could send to
you, but it just takes a little head scratchin-you can do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: anti-rotation bracket |
BTW, if you look closely at mine, I designed it for the obvious reason (to
keep your pick tube from turning when you tighten up for the outside after
tank is closed-ya can't tell then, get it)? But, I also made mine in that the
nut on the inside would never vibrate its way loose. (keeps inside tank pick
up from... ) which probably would never happen. Well, be safe, air crashes
hurt-trust me-thats if your alive to feel the pain. Good luck and again
contact me off list for more or telephone help. Bob in Arkansas TAIL/WINGS
FOR SALE-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Phil" <Phil(at)camsnet.com> |
Subject: | Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly |
I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some pre-assembly.
I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a few
nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the fifth
one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference with
the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be
riveted in assembly with W-909-L.
Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I modify
the rib?
Best regards,
Phil Johnston
Phil(at)camsnet.com
RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly |
You will have to modify the rib to fit onto the spar. This is one of those
cases, actually every case is one of those cases, where you will want to
review the manual before doing anything. In the leading edge section it
describes what ribs need to be modified to clear the rivets or spar
stiffeners, etc.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil" <Phil(at)camsnet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
>
> I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some pre-assembly.
> I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a
few
> nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the fifth
> one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference with
> the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be
> riveted in assembly with W-909-L.
>
> Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I
modify
> the rib?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Phil Johnston
> Phil(at)camsnet.com
>
> RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly |
07/12/2002 05:36:54 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/12/2002 05:36:54 PM
Phill,
Look at the plans VERY close. There are both L and R ribs in each wing.
There should be two ribs that have a cut out to clear the rivet and
doubler. As I recall, I drilled holes in the flange to let the rivets
poke through.
DO NOT drill out the wing spar rivets.
If the ribs do not line up with the holes in the skin, then check the
rib. It probably goes on the other wing. This is especially true in the
wing walk section. I do not remember how many times I had to swap ribs
around until they all lined up but they will.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL Final parts.
"Phil"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
07/12/2002 09:02 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly
I received my wing kit on 8JUL2002 and last night I did some
pre-assembly.
I placed the Main spar assembly in the modified H-frame. I then added a
few
nose ribs (W-909-L), but the third one outboard from the tank or the
fifth
one inboard could not be clecoed to the spar because of interference
with
the rivets from the spar assembly. DWG 11 shows the top and bottom to be
riveted in assembly with W-909-L.
Am I looking at this wrong? Or do I drill out the huge rivet? Or do I
modify
the rib?
Best regards,
Phil Johnston
Phil(at)camsnet.com
RV-9A Kit #90329 Builder www.vansaircraft.com
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Bob Paulovich ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Paulovich
Subject: Fatal RV Crash
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bobpaulo@aol.com.07.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing nose rib to Main spar assembly |
Along the same track, one of our members talked to Vans and got the
blessing to swap 2 or 3 wing ribs from one side of the plane to the
other. This made them easier to rivet. You know the ones you have to
buck by sticking your hand in the holes that some of us find too small
to get our hands into. I had already done mine. But you might want to
check into it.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage/finish kit
P
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Fiberglass elevator tips |
I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on.
I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the
tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume
that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control
surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you
just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the
last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the
consensus?
Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com
90300 finishing up on the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Fiberglass elevator tips |
Yes I have the same problem. I have done quite a bit of work on mine to make
them slimmer. One comment, I don't think you should end up with just resin
there. I put extra layers of cloth on the inside before I sanded the
outside. Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TG
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips on.
I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of the
tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume
that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control
surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did you
just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of the
last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the
consensus?
Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com
90300 finishing up on the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question |
From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
I see the measurements to make the optional lightening holes on the
Vertical Stabilizer doubler. I have two questions about this...
1) What is the disadvantage to putting in the lightening holes? I
would obviously want to cut weight wherever I can.
2) Do the same holes get placed on the spar also?
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated!!
-Ted-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV Fatal Crash |
"I was a passenger that was seriously hurt but did survive and expect to make
a mostly complete recovery". Bob Paulovich, Bryant Arkansas
Bob:
Is there anything from the crash you can relate to us that could help us in
our future flying? Hope you have a speedy full recovery from any injuries
you received.
Best Regards,
Doug Lomheim
RV-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass elevator tips |
I used balsa wood fillers for the open ends of the tips.. I made
them so that they fit just right when the tip was clamped down
to the same size as the elevator. I then used epoxy to glue them
in place. After the glue set up I made a curved sanding block
to same radius as the elevator arm and sanded the balsa to shape.
I got a very close fit with no interferance. I then sealed the balsa
with blasa sealer dope.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question |
For what it is worth I cut out the lightening holes, what was cut out
weighed 3 oz. I just used a hole saw of the proper size. Do not cut holes
in the spar.
Gene N557RV res.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass elevator tips |
I took a sanding disk to them and got a very nice fit for the right elevator
tip. However, when I did the same on the left elevator I went right through
the fiberglass and into the open space within. Thus a warning, fill the
trailing edge of the Elevator Tips before you sand them down. Fill them
with some form of fiberglass and epoxy. I would do all the adjusting prior
to riveting the tips to the elevator. I used Super Fil to cover up the
damaged area and may then cover the damaged area with fiberglass for added
strength.
By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items holding the
counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in
flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the
trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws came
down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer!
Mike Duiven
N711ED
----- Original Message -----
From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
>
> I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips
on.
> I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of
the
> tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume
> that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control
> surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did
you
> just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of
the
> last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the
> consensus?
>
> Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com
> 90300 finishing up on the empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question |
From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Thanks Gene! I checked in the archive section and most people seemed to
agree that it was worth the extra work. Didn't seem to be any down side
other than the extra time to complete.
Thanks Again.
-Ted-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene [mailto:gene(at)nvaircraft.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9- Vertical Stab Doubler Question
For what it is worth I cut out the lightening holes, what was cut out
weighed 3 oz. I just used a hole saw of the proper size. Do not cut
holes
in the spar.
Gene N557RV res.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert scott" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass elevator tips |
As for the counter balance arm weights, I used proseal to seal the weights
in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
................ By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items
holding the
> counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in
> flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the
> trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws
came
> down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer!
>
> Mike Duiven
> N711ED
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com>
> To: "List"
> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
>
>
> >
> > I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips
> on.
> > I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of
> the
> > tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume
> > that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control
> > surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did
> you
> > just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of
> the
> > last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the
> > consensus?
> >
> > Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com
> > 90300 finishing up on the empennage
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I went to Arlington Thursday and looked at a bunch of RV's. One detail that
makes a plane look really good is a nice glass fairing at the wing root
instead of the rubber molding the kit provides. Some of the 6A's even
worked the upper gear leg fairing into the wing root fairing. But - get
this for extra cool - a 6 from Fort Collins, CO had steps that retracted
when he closed his slider.
Albert Gardner
9-0132
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Subject: | Fiberglass elevator tips (Counter balance weights) |
I also used proseal for the counterbalance weights in the rudder and
elevators. Easy to do and you can be sure that the bollts aren't going to go
anywhere!
Todd Houg
Fuselage bulkheads - N194TH (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Duiven [mailto:emduiven(at)chaffee.net]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
I took a sanding disk to them and got a very nice fit for the right elevator
tip. However, when I did the same on the left elevator I went right through
the fiberglass and into the open space within. Thus a warning, fill the
trailing edge of the Elevator Tips before you sand them down. Fill them
with some form of fiberglass and epoxy. I would do all the adjusting prior
to riveting the tips to the elevator. I used Super Fil to cover up the
damaged area and may then cover the damaged area with fiberglass for added
strength.
By the way, any thoughts on how to insure that the items holding the
counterbalance weights to the elevators and rudder won't work loose in
flight. Perhaps fiberglassing these items into the structure will do the
trick. It would be hard to center the rudder once one of those screws came
down and interferes with the vertical stabilizer!
Mike Duiven
N711ED
----- Original Message -----
From: "TG" <tcgrant(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
>
> I have a question to you all that have already fitted your elevator tips
on.
> I'm in the process of fitting mine and noticed that the trailing edge of
the
> tip was somewhat fatter then the trailing edge of the elevator. I assume
> that this will be a common problem (challenge) with the other control
> surfaces. Did you taper (sand) yours to match the elevator edge or did
you
> just leave them alone. I mixed up a bit of resin and filled the void of
the
> last 1/2 in of the tip, anticipating that I'd taper mine. What's the
> consensus?
>
> Tom Grant tcgrant(at)attbi.com
> 90300 finishing up on the empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "robert" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC
Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip made by
the guy in Torance?
Robert Scott
N472RV Reserved
Do not acrhive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | More RV9A pictures |
Ok all you guys (and gals). I took a bunch of pictures at Arlington this last week
and yes there were 3 new RV9A's that flew in!
Don Wilson had a nice Red & White RV9A from Oregon
Peter Harrison had a nice white & checkered striped RV9A from BC
Roy Murphy had a nice white & blue RV9A from Washington
All of the pictures can be found at:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/rv%20pictures/rv9_pictures.htm
All of them have a larger version if you click on the smaller one.
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - Seattle WA
Wiring...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
on 7/15/02 11:02 AM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote:
>
> Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC
> Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip made by
> the guy in Torance?
Hi Robert
I plan to use the Bob Archer wing tip antenna for GS/LOC/VOR, but a regular
antenna on the fuselage for comm.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "robert" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
Have you or has anyone else had any first hand experiance with Bob Archers
antennas?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Antennas
>
> on 7/15/02 11:02 AM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Just wondering what others are planning on using for thier VOR/GS/LOC
> > Antenna. Cat wiskers on the VS or the one that goes in the wing tip
made by
> > the guy in Torance?
>
> Hi Robert
>
> I plan to use the Bob Archer wing tip antenna for GS/LOC/VOR, but a
regular
> antenna on the fuselage for comm.
>
> Mark Schrimmer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
on 7/15/02 2:08 PM, robert at rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com wrote:
>
> Have you or has anyone else had any first hand experiance with Bob Archers
> antennas?
>
Quite a few RVs have successfully used Bob's antennas. If you check the
regular RV list archives, you'll find a lot of info.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Subject: | RV things I learned at Arlington |
Ok, I don't know that there's much "value" in these ramblings, however here are
some of the things that I gleaned while talking to other RVers & looking at finished
planes at Arlington this year.
How to get the fuel lines through the gear towers? Have you ever thought of unbolting
them from the spar carry through to route the lines through the holes,
then rebolt them back on with the lines inside? I sure hadn't.
How about the addition of drain holes around the formers in the rear fuselage cone.
Don Wilson had problems with etch and water collecting in there while doing
his final painting.
Where to place the rudder pedals for aft? Vans has all of theirs in the middle
of the 3 locations with about 2 inch links (estimated) and everyone in the company
can fly them with that setup.
The RV9A prototype was sporting the brand new (installed Friday) Truetrack Digitrack
wing leveler. Rumor was that it was hunting a bit and not holding as well
as the Navaid in the 7, but it still needed more testing to know how it would
work out.
Firewall penitrations. Most people were using the basic gromets called out in the
plans with proseal to seal the openings. A few like the very expensive ball
& sockets that Cleveland and others sell.
Another tidbit from Don, flying up with a friend in his RV4, both had 150HP 0320's,
at the same RPM with Sen FP metal props the RV9A was 5mph faster! side by
side... YA HOO.... :)
Everyone's counterbalance clearances looked nice and tight with nice straight lines.
Hum got to work on that some more.
From Peter, he said that he shimed the front windscreen on top of the roll bar
instead of the rear part on the slider frame. That way the shims were covered
by the glass that you lay over the rollbar and windscreen. In looking at Don's
he used small washers between the canopy slider frame and the plexi where it
was pop riveted on the frame. Both looked fine.
Man those tails are tall. You could look across the RV corral of 30-40 RV's and
the 9A's just stood out as head and shoulders above the rest (they are the best
aren't they?)! Definatly a cool stance while taxing as they are almost tipped
just a bit forward compared to the 6A's which were tail low in taxi.
That's about it of what I remember. Maby others can post their findings...
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - Seattle WA - Wiring...
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
I bought a pair of Archers; was shocked to find out how trivial they are for the
price, but then again, what's an antenna but a piece of wire cut to a specific
length? Since then, I have chosen not to use the comm antenna. These need to
be vertically oriented as much as possible inside the wingtip. In the 9 tips,
this amounts to, not much... Since I needed a second comm antenna anyway, I
bought a Comant and liked it so much I bought another. The Archer will be a
flea market item. This also eliminated about three pounds of coax running all
the way to the wingtip. I also don't like the idea of having to add foam or
other such support in the wingtip, nor running an antenna so close to the
strobe.
I am still thinking of using the NAV antenna, although nobody has been able to
answer my question about whether it is suitable as a GS/LOC antenna too? My
Apollo SL30 has just a single NAV antenna input so no splitters are required,
but is the antenna suitable? I would prefer to lose this antenna too, but the
options seem to be a Vee on the VS which I did not plan for. In short, you can
probably make the Archers work OK, but I'm not impressed.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Gary.....where are you mounting the com? I plan to use a 45 degree whip
as a belly mount.
We saw a lot of them at Arlington, but you usually have to get down and
look under to find them. The ones on the top of the turtledeck don't
look good to me.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
I'm mounting them (45 degree whips) side by side under the left & right seats
just behind the spar.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
On looking at DWG 31, Zone B3, I did not understand what F-777G was for,
so I called Tom at Van's. Tom did not know either so he asked Phil. Phil
said the purpose is to connect the battery box (F-877AP) to the corner
angle on the back side of the firewall. This is not shown on the
isometric, but the rightmost hole in F-777G is to be riveted to that
angle. Also, the callouts for AS3-063x3/4x3/4 on the angle supports
should probably read AA6-063x3/4x3/4. It looks to me that the 1 3/32"
hole spacing shown on the fab instructions for F-777G and F-777H do not
quite match the prepunched hole pattern on the back of the battery box.
It also seems that moving the box to the right a little would allow it
to be riveted to the other angle behind it. This means violating the
5/32" spacing in Zone G1. (Note that Rev 3 changes the 4 11/32" to 8
11/16", Zone F1.)
In addition, my Quickbuild kit does not have enough AA6-063x3/4x3/4 left
to finish the job, nor are there now enough AN4-4A bolts. Tom is sending
me some more
Leland
Starting to wire while waiting for the long-lead finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
Subject: | Air compressors - How big? |
I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of how
big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal components.
Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much?
Matthew
RV-9A Empennage
(N523RV Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
Subject: | Air compressors - How big? |
I have a 30 gal. oilless compressor, and it's more than adequate in handing
all of my tools except the die grinders. Any amount of running time with
those tools, and the compressor runs just about continuously. I CANNOT
recommend oilless over conventional compressors, though -- mine is
absolutely deafening when it runs. I would spend the extra to get a
conventional compressor, next time 'round, but I would still buy 30 gals.
HTW and FWIW.
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Air compressors - How big? |
I started with a little 1.5 HP Oil less compressor, but the noise was too
much for me and I wanted to be able to use my die grinder quite a bit, so I
went "whole hog" and got a 7 HP 80 gal unit that operates at 175 psi. Now
it doesn't run very often and the two stage pump is pretty quite.
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Air compressors - How big?
>
> I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of
how
> big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal
components.
> Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much?
>
> Matthew
> RV-9A Empennage
> (N523RV Reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Subject: | Fiberglass elevator tips |
I would be interested to know if people are putting any sort of filler on
the tip (under the ally) before riveting the tips on. I wondered if a very
thin skim of epoxy / microballoons would be a good way of making the
interface tight? Steve
90360
N Yorks, UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Brandvold
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass elevator tips
I used balsa wood fillers for the open ends of the tips.. I made
them so that they fit just right when the tip was clamped down
to the same size as the elevator. I then used epoxy to glue them
in place. After the glue set up I made a curved sanding block
to same radius as the elevator arm and sanded the balsa to shape.
I got a very close fit with no interferance. I then sealed the balsa
with blasa sealer dope.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Why are folk not mounting the com antenna on the canopy like the VANS
demonstrator. It's the lightest cheapest lowest drag solution. What is the
downside? Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Plastic Film on Canopy |
We just received our finish kit. ;-)
It will be a few weeks before we start on the canopy and it is
very hot in New Mexico. It is out of the sun but will the heat
make the protective plastic film a permanent addition to the
Plexiglas? If so, we can move it into the house or remove
the film and protect it with something else. Any one have
an answer/suggestion?
Thanks
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com> |
Subject: | lycoming for sale |
I have a 0 time SMH Lycoming 0-290-D for sale that I was going to put in my
RV-9A but I'm going for more hp's :). So before I put it up for sale in
Trade-a-Plane I want to offer it to you. It is a nice package, the log book
I have for it only starts at the last rebuild so I have no prior history,
but as it is the log states: Engine disassemled cleaned, cylinders
overhauled by Aero Engines Atlanta GA, Lycoming 0-320 crankshaft with new
main & rod bearings installed, all steel parts magnafluxed, aluminum parts
zygloed. Overhalled cylinders with new fitted pistons & rings installed,
polished camshaft & lifters installed. Engine completly assembled in
accordance with Lycoming specs. Engine oiled internally for storage.
Also before I bought the engine the seller had the # 1 cylinder removed and
had the crankshaft, camshaft, and connecting rods checked for corrosion and
none was found.
All accsesories are included ,carb,mag's,altinator,ring gear,etc. asking
$5000.00 plus shipping it's in a nice shipping crate. I can send pictures of
it on request or you can see it on Long Island, NY. Reply off list to
klwski1(at)pouch.com
Thanks
Ken
RV-9A
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Air compressors - How big? |
From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Matthew,
You won't need much compressor for spraying the parts but die grinders
and high speed drills take quite a bit of air. I started with a 25 gal
oil free unit, but my wife made me ditch it. The sound was deafening,
and it is a high pitch whine!! I would suggest staying away from the
oil free models. I also decided with the new compressor to go with the
135 psi 65 gallon Husky model from home depot. This thing only runs
once or twice a night for a short time to supply a couple of hour's
worth of building time.
-Ted Strand-
RV-9A Empennage (Rudder)
(N371N Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Brandes [mailto:mbrandes(at)irr.com]
Subject: RV9-List: Air compressors - How big?
I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of
how
big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal
components.
Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much?
Matthew
RV-9A Empennage
(N523RV Reserved)
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: lycoming for sale |
From: | vcordero(at)juno.com |
Ken,
Come and get your 3 "Finishing Kit" videos at the house.
I finally got the Navaid autopilot , but I want to test it before I
install it on the wing. How did you finally hook up yours ?
Subaru engine goes on next month. Are you available??
Met 3 more local guys buiding RV's (RV's 6,7,8) at John Biggers house.
Give me a buzz
Vic, I wish my garage was bigger, Cordero
331-4612
516-971-0811 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Plastic Film on Canopy |
Most likely the plastic wrap will simply fall off if left in the elements.
It seems to depend on static cling. Mine is falling off despite a
controlled environment, or because of it. You might not want to let the
canopy sit in direct hot sun anyway since it doesn't yet have the
benefit of a metal frame. I don't know if it will droop, but it might.
Best to keep it shaded.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Air compressors - How big? |
Matthew:
Unless you plan to use the compressor for the final paint job, the 5hp, 30
gal unit will be plenty. MAKE CERTAIN THAT IT IS THE OIL BATH TYPE. The
oiless type would drive you crazy. It comes on often building an RV. If
you use a die grinder a lot you will get delays. However, you can buy a
separate air only tank for added capacity. Sell it before you fly.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 25% Complete
> I'm looking into air compressors and would like to get a general idea of
how
> big/small I need. I only intend to use it for priming internal
components.
> Is a 5hp/30gal enough? Too much?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Front Wheel Hub Bolt Torque & Tire Pressure |
Does anyone know the proper torque for the three front wheel Hub bolts and
the correct tire pressure?
(Main Gear seems to be 90 in-lb & 25#)
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Story videos |
Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's?
Dave Nicholson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos
>
> To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's new
> version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list :
Matt
> Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are.
>
> Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid
January.
> Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van
was
> unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time I
> spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more weeks
and
> for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I
estimate
> another week or two before we actually have them to ship out.
>
> Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they
become
> available from Vans.
>
> Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway; we
are
> accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of
> Builder's Bookstore
>
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://buildersbooks.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles |
Has anyone had a problem of hitting "hard spots" while drilling the Cotter
Pin Holes in the Main Axles?
Dave
90347
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles |
Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits!
The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little
detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand
new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be
through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for
its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit. You
want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit.
Round Two!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles |
Good point Gary...
My bit must not be too bad since I was able to drill 7 out of 8 holes (2
pairs of holes per leg, 30 apart).
It looks like I'll have to get something harder for the last one. (I got
about half-way through the wall before it started to slide.)
Know of any good sources?
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
>
>
> Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits!
> The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little
> detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand
> new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be
> through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for
> its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit.
You
> want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit.
>
> Round Two!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde
battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the
Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and
the Odyssey in the -9.
Leland
Messing with the Map Box
________________________________________________________________________________
Leland,
You mentioned reason #1, it's 7 lbs lighter. The other reason is that the
battery box is much nicer and easier to construct. The Odessy is about half
the size of the Concord. And, it's sealed, wont leak, low maintenance.
On the other hand, the Odessy is $160. . .
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Batteries
>
> Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde
> battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the
> Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and
> the Odyssey in the -9.
> Leland
> Messing with the Map Box
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Leand
I orginally used the 24AH Concord RG and it died within 9 months. I
then switched to the 16 AH Odyssey PC625 and in my opinion it is much better
due to its lighter weight, smaller size and lower cost. It may not have the
reserve capacity of an 25AH but its cranking power is as great if not
greater. There are several suitable the PC680, PC625, etc. depending on your
needs check the specs on them at:
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/default.htm
Also the prices of Odyssey batteries (same model) vary greatly. I have
seen the PC625 go for as cheap as $75 and has high as $160 - so do shop
around on the internet. Also you do not need the PC628MJ (or what ever size
you get). The MJ stands for Metal Jacket (intended for Motorcycle
application) and cost a bit more.
http://www.acdelcobatteries.com/odyssey.cfm
http://odysseyselect.com/Order.htm
http://www.batterymart.com/ (Look Under Motorcycles)
Hope this helps
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Batteries
>
> Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde
> battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the
> Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and
> the Odyssey in the -9.
> Leland
> Messing with the Map Box
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles |
Cobalt (from Menards) was the "magic bullet", along with my trusty old (45
years) hand cranked breast drill (slow and steady).
Now for the Front Gear Leg Mounting Hole (when Jan gets me my engine in
September).
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drill Cotter Pin Hols in the Main Axles
>
>
> Hate to break the news to you Dave, but you've got crappy drill bits!
> The bit needs to be harder than the metal it's drilling. That's a little
> detail that seems to be lost on many drill vendors. Start with a brand
> new cobalt or titanium bit and a drop of machine oil and you should be
> through in seconds. Make sure you run your drill at the right speed for
> its size and the type of metal too. Overspeeding will burn up a bit.
You
> want a speed that produces nice spiraling tails out of the bit.
>
> Round Two!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Or try www.odysseydirect.com for online purchase. I paid $89. Look for the
models with the brass stud connections rather than socket and screw. PC625 is
good.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com> |
What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one
for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just
another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and
managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying
determine just what I really need on this A/C.
Gene N557RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
It's a "bell & whistle" and I bought it, along with the electric elevator
trim, and steps. None of them are "necessary", but each one makes it a
little easier (especially the steps since I'm not getting any younger).
The 9A electric aileron trim is just a small servo motor, that shifts spring
pressure from one side of the joystick system to the other. I understand
the manual aileron trim uses the same spring system, but with a knob to turn
by hand in place of the servo.
I'll be using a Ray Allen Stick Grip with pushbutton switches for the pilot
along with panel mounted rocker switches for the co-pilot. (Not the
cheapest way to go, but handy)
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
>
> What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one
> for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just
> another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and
> managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying
> determine just what I really need on this A/C.
>
> Gene N557RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS |
From: Howimiller(at)aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 15:55:21 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS
LRCohn(at)HHLAW.COM, rcohn(at)furniturerow.com, evan(at)iddwebs.com,
SDuffordmd(at)aol.com, chrisdunkin(at)hotmail.com, SJG7989(at)aol.com,
mgrillo(at)lmana.com, Kathryn.Karns(at)healthonecares.com, IamMJL(at)aol.com,
re-frank(at)juno.com, PARCATOL(at)aol.com, Gram2929(at)aol.com,
hmmiller(at)4dvision.net, Sbeefbarron(at)aol.com, Golfslave(at)aol.com,
KIKIDEEMAX(at)aol.com, RPM39(at)netzero.net, jnab(at)worldnet.att.net,
rnaiman(at)universitybldg.com, Rnishman(at)dhha.org,
joffenkrantz(at)kayescholer.com, parkhill(at)doctormail.com, LRKB1(at)aol.com,
segall5(at)msn.com, aclsilv(at)ecentral.com, sstark(at)swscpas.com
From: WToltz(at)aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:13:48 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS
Jpells(at)pellsins.com, SJCohen(at)aol.com, srosenbaum(at)irwl.com,
ToltzY(at)aol.com
From: "Marvin Stone" <marvin.stone(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fw: VACATIONING PRIESTS
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:12:21 -0700
VACATIONING PRIESTS
Two priests decided to go to Hawaii on vacation. They determined to
make this a real vacation by not wearing anything that would identify
them as clergy. As soon as the plane landed, they headed for a store
and bought some really outrageous shorts, shirts, sandals, sun-
glasses, etc.
The next morning, they went to the beach, dressed in their "tourist"
garb. They were sitting on beach chairs, enjoying a drink, the sun-
shine and the scenery when a "drop dead gorgeous" blonde in a tiny
bikini came walking straight towards them. They couldn't help but
stare. As the blonde passed them, she smiled and said, "Good
morning, Father,""Good morning Father," nodding and addressing
each of them individually, then passed on by.
They were both stunned. How in the world did she know they were
priests?
The next day, they went back to the store, bought even more
outrageous outfits. These were so loud, you could hear them before
you even saw them. Once again, they settled on the beach in their
chairs to enjoy the sunshine etc. After a while, the same gorgeous
blonde, wearing a string bikini this time, came walking toward them.
Again, she approached them and greeted them individually: "Good
morning, Father," "Good morning, Father," and started to walk away.
One of the priests couldn't stand it and said, "Just a minute, young
lady."
"Yes?" she replied.
"We are priests, and proud of it, but I have to know, how in the world
did you know we are priests?"
"Father, it's me, Sister Helen."
VACATIONING PRIESTS
Two priests decided to go to Hawaii
on vacation. They determined to
make this a real
vacation by not wearing anything that would identify
them as clergy. As soon as the plane landed, they headed for a store
and bought some really outrageous shorts, shirts,
sandals, sun-
glasses, etc.
The next morning, they
went to the beach, dressed in their "tourist"
garb. They were sitting on beach chairs, enjoying a drink, the sun-
shine and the scenery when a "drop dead gorgeous"=20blonde
in a tiny
bikini came walking straight towards them.
They couldn't help but
stare. As the blonde passed them,
she smiled and said, "Good
morning, Father,""Good
morning Father," nodding and addressing
each of them
individually, then passed on by.
They were both stunned.
How in the world did she know they were
priests?
The
next day, they went back to the store, bought even more
outrageous outfits. These were so loud, you could hear them before
you even saw them. Once again, they settled=20on the
beach in their
chairs to enjoy the sunshine etc. After a
while, the same gorgeous
blonde, wearing a string=20bikini
this time, came walking toward them.
Again, she
approached them and greeted them individually: "Good
morning, Father," "Good morning, Father," and started to walk away.
One of the priests couldn't stand it and said, "Just a
minute, young
lady."
"Yes?" she replied.
"We are
priests, and proud of it, but I have to know, how in the world
did you know we are priests?"
"Father, it's me, Sister
Helen."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
07/23/2002 03:40:58 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/23/2002 03:40:58 PM
Dave,
Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to
prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem
and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me
about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can
backfeed through the other switch.
Regards
Larry Perryman
Dave Nicholson
07/22/2002 10:54 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
It's a "bell & whistle" and I bought it, along with the electric
elevator
trim, and steps. None of them are "necessary", but each one makes it a
little easier (especially the steps since I'm not getting any younger).
The 9A electric aileron trim is just a small servo motor, that shifts
spring
pressure from one side of the joystick system to the other. I
understand
the manual aileron trim uses the same spring system, but with a knob to
turn
by hand in place of the servo.
I'll be using a Ray Allen Stick Grip with pushbutton switches for the
pilot
along with panel mounted rocker switches for the co-pilot. (Not the
cheapest way to go, but handy)
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene" <gene(at)nvaircraft.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
>
> What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual
one
> for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just
> another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and
> managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am
trying
> determine just what I really need on this A/C.
>
> Gene N557RV (res)
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
Yes, in fact, Ray Allen sent them with my order, along with a schematic.
It looks like it is the same set-up Van's is using in their RV-9A.
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "PERRYMAN Larry" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
>
>
> Dave,
>
> Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to
> prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem
> and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me
> about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can
> backfeed through the other switch.
>
> Regards
> Larry Perryman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Thank you for your helpful responses. I just ordered an Odyssey PC625
with brass studs for $73.95 from Battery Specialists at 1-800-952-6462.
They are not charging for shipping. Their web address is:
http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PERRYMAN Larry <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
07/23/2002 07:54:00 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/23/2002 07:54:00 PM
Dave,
Glad to hear that Ray Allen is now putting out the schematic. When I did
it, I had to piece together three different schematics and try to match
up wiring.
Regards
Larry Perryman
90288
"Dave Nicholson"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
07/23/2002 09:11 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
Yes, in fact, Ray Allen sent them with my order, along with a schematic.
It looks like it is the same set-up Van's is using in their RV-9A.
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "PERRYMAN Larry" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
>
>
> Dave,
>
> Have you run into the need to install diodes in one set of switches to
> prevent the electric trim from running to one end? I had that problem
> and could not understand it until i called Ray Allen and they told me
> about the need for diodes if you use the switching relays. It can
> backfeed through the other switch.
>
> Regards
> Larry Perryman
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
Quick question for any already flying their "9A"...if you have only a single
landing light have you found it provides enought light for both taxi and
approach to landing? I am about to install a second light but if it isn't
really necessary I'll skip the extra steps involved and press on...thanks for
the inputs.
Doug Lomheim (90116)
OK City, OK area (left top done!, right top getting close)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Doug,
We installed two landing lights for maximum visibility. We want to be
seen!
One light would probably be enough to see the runway. I have had many people
comment that I look like a lear jet on final with those bright lights out at
the wing tips.
They only draw about 3.8 amps each.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Gene - with apologies to Dave N the electric aileron trim is about the most
inane thing I have ever heard of. I can see absolutely no point. Re trimming
is very occasional in roll.
The manual one seems well worth having since you should be able to trim the
wings level so it tracks straight hands off in still air. The mechanism is
so simple why not. If you are thinking of a wing leveller I suspect the trim
is necessary in order not to have a fight between the leveller and the
aircraft.
The elevator is a more difficult choice. I went the electric route mostly
because a) the manual system is heavy, and b) I was told that because of the
180 degree bend in the manual trim cable it can be irritatingly 'sticky'. I
don't know!
Good luck, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trim
What is your opinion on the electric aileron trim, or the manual one
for that matter. Is this something that is really necessary or just
another goody that would be nice. I have a lot of hours in Pipers and
managed just fine by switching tanks at regular intervals. I am trying
determine just what I really need on this A/C.
Gene N557RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
I agree with Steve. Electric aileron trim looks plain silly to me. It
places a servo right next to your butt, where your hand can easily reach
the lighter, simpler manual trim.
.........apologies to Steve, but the guys at Van's who fly all the
planes all say the electric pitch trim is a pain. Everyone struggles
with the control being too touchy, and you fiddle back and forth with
the switch to get it where you want it.
The manual pitch trim is smooth, positive, easy to use, and does not
distract you from flying. Van's says they weigh close to the same as
the electric, all things considered. Even with a tight bend in the
cable, mine shows no sticky tendencies in the garage. Reports say the
same after they are flying.
Some people think the manual knob looks funky. It does seem larger than
need be. This may be why the factory demonstrators have electric, and
the Van's guys prefer manual.
As with so many questions of this nature, just search the RV list or
RV-6 list archives, and you will see that it has all been hashed over
many times. Many 6's have been flying for a long time, and much of
that experience applies to the -7's and -9's. Just click on the
"search engine" link at the bottom of any Matronics list message.
You might also read the Q&A section of Doug Reeves Vans World Wide Wing,
http://pluto.beseen.com/boardroom/k/49353 and look for the appropriate
thread. There is also a section called "What I would do different nest
time" by guys who have built and flown one or more RV's. Might as well
take advantage of our collective experience.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
Ah, yes, primer, painting, small wheel location, etc. But all this previous
hashing doesn't mean that the question won't keep coming up. Again. And
again. BTW, when I called the Scottsdale, AZ FSDO to get the 8050-1
Registration Form (the one you can't copy or download) they said they were
out of money for postage and couldn't send it. I called Oklahoma City and
they sent me 2 copies of all necessary forms. (There is another 9A under
construction here in downtown Yuma) Today, I'm starting to wire this sleek
little rocket!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on firewall forward
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
> As with so many questions of this nature, just search the RV list or
> RV-6 list archives, and you will see that it has all been hashed over
> many times.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I ordered the Odyssey PCC680 battery from Battery Specialists at
1-800-952-6462 for $98.54 (includes shipping). This is the battery that
Van's list for $160. Their web address is:
http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV (Reserved)
Working on firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Paul - did you use the VANS kit or something else? Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Landing Lights
<< File: Re_ RV9-List_ Landing Lights.txt >> --> RV9-List message posted
by: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Doug,
We installed two landing lights for maximum visibility. We want to be
seen!
One light would probably be enough to see the runway. I have had many
people
comment that I look like a lear jet on final with those bright lights out at
the wing tips.
They only draw about 3.8 amps each.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | federigo(at)pacbell.net |
Subject: | Re: More on Batteries |
I ordered the Odyssey PC625 rather than the PC680 because it is two pounds lighter.
As
pointed out by Ed Anderson, the PC625 lacks a metal jacket but otherwise specs
are
the same.
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm
Leland
Starting to wire using Van's kit
"I ordered the Odyssey PCC680 battery from Battery Specialists at
1-800-952-6462 for $98.54 (includes shipping). This is the battery that
Van's list for $160. Their web address is:
http://abatterystore.hypermart.net/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I installed two of Van's Light Kits for redundancy as well a visibility
(both to see and to be seen).
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: <DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Landing Lights
>
> Quick question for any already flying their "9A"...if you have only a
single
> landing light have you found it provides enought light for both taxi and
> approach to landing? I am about to install a second light but if it isn't
> really necessary I'll skip the extra steps involved and press on...thanks
for
> the inputs.
>
> Doug Lomheim (90116)
> OK City, OK area (left top done!, right top getting close)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
As I said in a post last week, I got my PC625 for about $73, including
shipping.
Barry Pote RV9a finishing kit (and PUMPED UP FROM OSHKOSH '02)
Dale Larsen wrote:
>
>
> Leland,
>
> You mentioned reason #1, it's 7 lbs lighter. The other reason is that the
> battery box is much nicer and easier to construct. The Odessy is about half
> the size of the Concord. And, it's sealed, wont leak, low maintenance.
>
> On the other hand, the Odessy is $160. . .
>
> Dale
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
> To: "RV9 List"
> Subject: RV9-List: Batteries
>
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason for using the Concorde
> > battery instead of the Odyssey? The Concord weighs 22 pounds and the
> > Odyssey only 15. The plans call for using the Concorde in the -9A and
> > the Odyssey in the -9.
> > Leland
> > Messing with the Map Box
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
"'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
Subject: | BMA and Dynon EFIS |
I just got back from OSH where I spent a good deal of time looking over the Blue
Mountain EFIS light and the Dynon. In my opinion the Dynon wins hands down.
Here's my summary:
Cost - Dynon comes in about $1500-$1800 cheaper, maybe a little less if you buy
Dynons external magnetometer and battery backup.
Display - I preferred the display on the Dynon, the text appeared easier to read
and had a higher contrast. The Dynon was displayed inside, but the reps were
happy to unplug the unit and bring it outside in direct sunlight operating off
battery backup. Unlike others that have expressed concern about sunlight visibility,
I found the dsplay to be readable in all but direct reflected sunlight
(or nearly direct). This meant the unit had to be tipped back so that the display
reflected the sunlight directly like a mirror. There is virtually zero chance
of this in a cockpit with the display mounted below eye level. Both BMA
and Dynon claimed to have the brightest display available. BMA was in a tent outside,
so the ambient light was greater, but they were not setup to move the
display into direct sunlight, but it looked as if it would be comparable to the
Dynon in terms of brightness.
Honesty - Dynon will tell you up front that they underestimated delivery times
and they have significant flight testing to complete prior to taking orders. However,
they're not taking anybodies money until they have adequate flight time
and can deliver. Dynon was very straight forward with they're current shortcomings
and the plan to fix them. BMA will take your money and you won't know when
you'll get your Beta unit to flight test for them!
Physical - While I don't have actual weights for the units, the Dynon seemed to
be significantly lighter, fits in a 3 1/8" instrument hole and is fully self
contained. Although the display sizes were very close, the BMA was encased in
a large square chassis and required an externally mounted powersupply unit.
Recovery - The BMA unit will display "Re-Erect" message if the roll rate has been
exceeded, then it is up to the user to fly straight and level, then push the
button to re-erect the display. Currently the Dynon does not display an error
when it's roll rate has been exceeded, but this was readily admitted as a short
coming and is on their priority list to fix before releasing the units. The
Dynon unit will also recover on it's own, but the current recovery time is on
the order of a minute; this is also on the priority list to bring the recovery
time down.
Upgrades - The Dynon unit is software upgradeable ion the field via RS232 port.
This includes operating software as well as customized user checklists. I believe
the BMA is also field upgradeable, though I'm not sure about user checklist
support.
Dynon had about 20+ units on display that they referred to as the Beta units that
would be installed for flight testing. Having heard mixed reviews on the BMA
flight testing, I'm anxious to see what the Dynon beta testers find. Anybody
signed up as a Beta tester for Dynon?
Todd Houg
RV9A - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Nav-Com Antennas |
I'm thinking of installing two Com Radios and one Nav Radio.
How many antennas will I need?
Dave
90347
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Nav-Com Antennas |
Three
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Nav-Com Antennas |
That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, bent
whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on the
Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker).
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
> Three
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
Subject: | Nav-Com Antennas |
That's right Dave.
You can't share antennas between two transmitters (COMs). You could
share a NAV antenna if you were going to have two NAV recievers.
Just remember to leave as much space between the COM antennas as
possible - side by side at the outer edges of the fuse near the wing
roots or front to back with one under your feet/seat and the other under
the baggage compartment (or further back).
The NAV antenna location is your choice as long as it's horizontal. I
prefer the wingtip NAV antennas myself but it's really up to you.
It was good to meet you at Oshkosh, hopefully we'll see your plane there
soon!
Todd Houg
N194TH - reserved
www.toddhoug.com - My website is finally back after my domain registrar
fixed my web forwarding!
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Nicholson [SMTP:dnick2(at)insightbb.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side,
bent
whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on
the
Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker).
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
> Three
>
>
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AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAGFAAAAAAAAHgATgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEAAAAEAAAA
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AAEAAAAAAAAAHgArgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAOIUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4APQABAAAA
BQAAAFJFOiAAAAAAAwANNP03AABN3A==
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/31/02 |
Good article on antennas and the placement of them in AOPA Pilot, August
2002 issue.
>From: RV9-List Digest Server <rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV9-List Digest List
>Subject: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/31/02
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 23:51:01 -0700
>
>*
> RV9-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 07/31/02: 3
>
>
>From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
>Three
>
>
>From: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2(at)insightbb.com>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
>That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side, bent
>whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on the
>Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker).
>
>Dave
>90347
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
> >
> > Three
> >
> >
>
>
>From: Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net>
>Subject: RE: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
>That's right Dave.
>
>You can't share antennas between two transmitters (COMs). You could
>share a NAV antenna if you were going to have two NAV recievers.
>
>Just remember to leave as much space between the COM antennas as
>possible - side by side at the outer edges of the fuse near the wing
>roots or front to back with one under your feet/seat and the other under
>the baggage compartment (or further back).
>
>The NAV antenna location is your choice as long as it's horizontal. I
>prefer the wingtip NAV antennas myself but it's really up to you.
>
>It was good to meet you at Oshkosh, hopefully we'll see your plane there
>soon!
>
>Todd Houg
>N194TH - reserved
>www.toddhoug.com - My website is finally back after my domain registrar
>fixed my web forwarding!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave Nicholson [SMTP:dnick2(at)insightbb.com]
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
>That sounds like one for each Com (under the Fuselage, side by side,
>bent
>whip along with the "Rod" for the transponder), and one for the Nav (on
>the
>Vertical Stabilizer, top leading edge, cat whisker).
>
>Dave
>90347
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nav-Com Antennas
>
>
> >
> > Three
> >
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a(at)deru.com> |
Can anyone tell me why the F-711C bars
need to be tapered as shown on Dwg. 21
for tri-gear?
That's a lot of metal to cut/grind off, and
I don't see what parts would interfere if it
were left straight. Maybe I'm just getting
lazy, but it was quite a chore tapering the
F-605C parts and I am not keen on going through
that again without a band saw.
Thanks.
- Tim.
RV-9a fuse bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-711C taper |
To reduce weight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Coldenhoff" <rv9a(at)deru.com>
Subject: RV9-List: F-711C taper
>
> Can anyone tell me why the F-711C bars
> need to be tapered as shown on Dwg. 21
> for tri-gear?
>
> That's a lot of metal to cut/grind off, and
> I don't see what parts would interfere if it
> were left straight. Maybe I'm just getting
> lazy, but it was quite a chore tapering the
> F-605C parts and I am not keen on going through
> that again without a band saw.
>
> Thanks.
> - Tim.
> RV-9a fuse bulkheads
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Hanson <rv8tor(at)comcast.net> |
I got mine 3-4 months ago.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV Story videos
Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's?
Dave Nicholson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos
>
> To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's new
> version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list :
Matt
> Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are.
>
> Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid
January.
> Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van
was
> unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time I
> spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more weeks
and
> for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I
estimate
> another week or two before we actually have them to ship out.
>
> Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they
become
> available from Vans.
>
> Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway; we
are
> accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of
> Builder's Bookstore
>
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://buildersbooks.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment |
I've just started cleco'ng my rudder skins to the spar and ribs.
Part of the process is to cleco the R-916 trailing edge as well. Up
to this point everything has lined up dead on, however the top 12
holes of the R-916 wedge don't line up with the holes in the skin.
If I force a cleco to make it line up I get a big pillow between the
cleco's.
As I said, all the other holes on the trailing edge line up perfect,
except those last 12.
Should I call Van's and get a replacement? Should I just drill them
out? I don't like that idea, as I'll end up with mishaped holes in
the wedge.
Matthew
RV-9A (Empennage)
N523RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV Story videos |
I received mine as well some time ago.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Hanson" <rv8tor(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: RV Story videos
>
> I got mine 3-4 months ago.
>
> Kevin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nicholson
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV Story videos
>
>
> Any movement on these complimentary RV-Story Video's?
>
> Dave Nicholson
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: RV Story videos
>
>
>
> >
> > To all those ...still waiting for those complimentary copy's of Van's
new
> > version of the RV-Story video from your past contributions to this list
:
> Matt
> > Dralle asked me to post this update on where they are.
> >
> > Originally they were supposed to be completed and available in mid
> January.
> > Then, sometime in February the job was actually done, but on review Van
> was
> > unhappy with certain sections and opted to re-do those parts. Last time
I
> > spoke to Van's was about 2 weeks ago. At that time they said 3 more
weeks
> and
> > for the first time actually accepted and logged my pre-order. So, I
> estimate
> > another week or two before we actually have them to ship out.
> >
> > Thanks to everyone for your patience. I'll get them out the day they
> become
> > available from Vans.
> >
> > Anyone else not expecting a complementary copy but wanting one anyway;
we
> are
> > accepting pre-orders. You can find the item in the RV Specific page of
> > Builder's Bookstore
> >
> > Andy
> > Builder's Bookstore
> > http://buildersbooks.com
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment |
Matthew,
The problem with the wedge may be due to the way they were drilled.
Something may have shifted during drilling, thus the misalignment. The
rudder must be clamped securely and weighted down to a flat surface before
drilling. Start drilling in the middle of the rudder and work out toward
the top/bottom. Drill into the table surface as you go, and cleco every
other hole to the table as you drill. This will keep things from shifting
even slightly as you drill.
If you have the wing kit, read ahead on how the ailerons and flaps are made.
This will give you an idea on how to make straighter and better trailing
edges.
I would order another hunk of wedge from Van's and try again.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment
>
> I've just started cleco'ng my rudder skins to the spar and ribs.
> Part of the process is to cleco the R-916 trailing edge as well. Up
> to this point everything has lined up dead on, however the top 12
> holes of the R-916 wedge don't line up with the holes in the skin.
> If I force a cleco to make it line up I get a big pillow between the
> cleco's.
>
> As I said, all the other holes on the trailing edge line up perfect,
> except those last 12.
>
> Should I call Van's and get a replacement? Should I just drill them
> out? I don't like that idea, as I'll end up with mishaped holes in
> the wedge.
>
> Matthew
> RV-9A (Empennage)
> N523RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edcarris(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment |
I'm sure you tried it both ways. I'd get a new one. Mine lind up perfect.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment |
Be careful about weighting down the TE of the rudder. That will produce a
twist. The TE and the edge of the rudder spar are not on the same plane.
Some get away with weighting it down, some get oil-canning. First try
letting it float as suggested in the plans. That may solve your problem (if
you have been trying to lay the spar flat on a table and also pushing the TE
flat on the table). Once you get to the elevators, the TE and edge of the
spar are in plane or parallel. You can put the elevator spar and TE flat on
a table.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John <jleclercq(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | RV-9 In Wisconsin |
Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin?
If so please contact me.
Thank you,
John LeClercq
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-9 In Wisconsin |
John
I live in Appleton and am working on the finishing Kit all wiring is
done and the engine is hung. Cowling and canopy to go. I know a guy in
oshkosh that has a flying 9A slider also. If you want to hook up
contact off line. bill(at)billrounds.com
Bill Rounds
N159RV
John wrote:
>
>Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin?
>If so please contact me.
>
>Thank you,
>
>John LeClercq
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge Alignment |
John,
You're right about the spar and the TE not on the same plane. If you try to
force the centerline of the spar to pe parallel with the table, you will
have problems! :-) I apologise for the misunderstanding, my post was not
clear.
Although the rudder spar is smaller at the top than the bottom, either side
of the rudder is flat and will lay on a flat surface (If you let the bottom
end hang over the edge of the table). The important part is that both
trailing edges are aligned parallel before drilling, and they stay in
alignment while drilling. If it moves even slightly during drilling, you
will get the symptoms that Matthew describes; some line up, some don't.
Dale
> Be careful about weighting down the TE of the rudder. That will produce a
> twist. The TE and the edge of the rudder spar are not on the same plane.
> Some get away with weighting it down, some get oil-canning. First try
> letting it float as suggested in the plans. That may solve your problem
(if
> you have been trying to lay the spar flat on a table and also pushing the
TE
> flat on the table). Once you get to the elevators, the TE and edge of the
> spar are in plane or parallel. You can put the elevator spar and TE flat
on
> a table.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Carillon <Carillon(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-9 In Wisconsin |
To John LeClerq and Bill Rounds:
I tried to send you the following message off line, but for some strange
reason both addresses bounced.
There are at least two more of us building 9A's in Wisconsin. Gerrold Elling
is building a standard kit. He has finished the empenage and is working on
the wings. I have a QB kit inventoried but not yet started. ( I'm just
finishing up a Zenith 601 HDS ). I know - I know...but it did seem a good
idea at the time. I will fly it until I finish the RV. Gerry lives in
Ladysmith and I live in Sheldon. We both have hangars at RCX.
John Carillon
John wrote:
>
> Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin?
> If so please contact me.
>
> Thank you,
>
> John LeClercq
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | RV-9 In Wisconsin |
John,
I'm building a 9A slider. Firewall forward is mostly complete. I'm starting
to wire the instrument panel.
I fired up the EIS engine monitor today for the first time. I cranked the
engine with the spark plugs removed and developed 48psi oil pressure after
15 seconds. The Skytec PM starter turns the engine over very fast!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Are there any RV-9 or 9A aircraft being built in Wisconsin?
If so please contact me.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Nightingale, Roger" <rnightingale(at)tycoint.com> |
We are in the process of selecting a fixed pitch prop for our RV 9A. Do any
of you lucky 9 pilots flying have any suggestions, comments or better yet
numbers from your prop selection. We have been investigating Aymar DeMuth,
Catto, and Sensenich, would appreciate any comments.
Thanks,
Roger & Mike Nightingale
Orion, Illinois
N194WE (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John <jleclercq(at)charter.net> |
Thanks for the quick response to my query about RV-9s in Wisconsin.
I will get in touch with you fellows off this list and make plans to
visit if possible.
Later,
John LeClercq
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
Roger and Mike,
Sorry I can't help you, we used a hartzell constant speed. Works
great!!!!
Takeoff and climb performance is really amazing!
Paul
flying RV-9A
May 14, 2002 - August 05, 2002
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-af