RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ak
April 07, 2003 - August 10, 2003
When testing a gas vessel, fill with water, then apply the pressure with air
to one and one half times your working pressure. If the tank ruptures, the
excess pressure is quickly and safely released with a very small amount of
nearly incompressible water. Air pressure takes a large amount of space
before it gets down to safe levels. Generally, an explosion results sending
pieces of the tank out like shrapnel or the tank goes flying. The working
pressure is where one sets the pressure relief valve. Don't run a fluid
system whether it be gas or water without a pressure safety valve.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
| From: | <Im7shannon(at)aol.com> |
>
> You could, however pressure test your system first at about 200 psi from a
> safe distance. This should be done anyway for any added components which
have
> not been tested by the manufacturer.
> Kevin
>
>
> >
> > Please do not use anything other than an approved tank for air the
> > resulting disaster if it explodes can and will be devastating if you or
any
> > one is near,do not patch as described. Also the more air pressure for a
> > given volume of tank will result in more capacity in the tank to draw
from.
> > The results of using anything like described has been witnessed after
my
> > neighbor did that with an old heater that wasn't leaking.
> > Boyd Butler
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Since their is much discussion of this subject, I will add my 2 cents worth.
When I started this project I used the page in the Van's website that helps
project the cost of building an RV. The gave an estimate of $2,000 for tools
and approximately $45,000 to build the airplane. It occurred to me then that
it would be penny wise and pound foolish to sacrifice the safety or integrity
of my $45,000 airplane to save a few bucks off the estimate on tool cost.
Many of the tools you will need are readily sellable if want to when your
project is done.
And you know what. A good compressor doesn't cost that much.
With this statement I will promise to stay off the soap box for at least a
week. Yes, I'm over budget on tool cost.
Dennis Thomas
90164
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Well, if you guys won't let me use an old water heater for an air tank, then I
will just have to save the money by not priming the alclad.
Gary
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib |
I am waiting on an answer from Van's but thought I would check here. In putting
together the rudder skeleton and matching the skins, the bottom rib pre-punched
holes do not line up with the skin, they are off by about 1/4 inch. The rest
of the holes match perfectly along the spar and top rib. There is really
nowhere to make a mistake in the bottom skeleton assembly, i:e: putting together
the rudder horn/shim/spar/rib together. I had another builder look it over
also, and we are both convinced there must be an error in the way the holes were
punched in the flanges of the rib. Sorry to go on so long, and ideas or similar
experiences while I await Van's answer? Thanks, Glenn in AZ -9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib |
I had a problem with the holes lining up between the spar and the rudder
horn. The horn is made on a different machine so the alignment isn't as
perfect as the rest of the kit.
I didn't have any problems with the skin and the spar holes lining up
though. Do you have some pictures?
Bob
RV-9
Plano, Tx
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn Brasch
Subject: RV9-List: Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib
I am waiting on an answer from Van's but thought I would check here. In
putting together the rudder skeleton and matching the skins, the bottom rib
pre-punched holes do not line up with the skin, they are off by about 1/4
inch. The rest of the holes match perfectly along the spar and top rib.
There is really nowhere to make a mistake in the bottom skeleton assembly,
i:e: putting together the rudder horn/shim/spar/rib together. I had another
builder look it over also, and we are both convinced there must be an error
in the way the holes were punched in the flanges of the rib. Sorry to go on
so long, and ideas or similar experiences while I await Van's answer?
Thanks, Glenn in AZ -9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jen G" <cfiijen(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib |
Glenn,
I had a HS rib that was stamped wrong. It seems to have been placed in the
die 180 degrees off, all of the holes ended up on top of the flutes. The
remaining ribs were correct. Van's was very good and sent me a new rib right
away. Everyone is away at Sun N Fun right now. It is possible that the rib
was stamped wrong.
Jennifer
RV9A
#90349
N349RV Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib |
I had a problem with the rudder horn, rib flange mismatch. Vans answer
was to send new horn stock and I fabricated a new piece. If anyone
needs a horn stock with original holes let me know.
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Brasch <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 9, 2003 5:32 pm
Subject: RV9-List: Rudder 904 (bottom) Rib
>
> I am waiting on an answer from Van's but thought I would check
> here. In putting together the rudder skeleton and matching the
> skins, the bottom rib pre-punched holes do not line up with the
> skin, they are off by about 1/4 inch. The rest of the holes match
> perfectly along the spar and top rib. There is really nowhere to
> make a mistake in the bottom skeleton assembly, i:e: putting
> together the rudder horn/shim/spar/rib together. I had another
> builder look it over also, and we are both convinced there must be
> an error in the way the holes were punched in the flanges of the
> rib. Sorry to go on so long, and ideas or similar experiences
> while I await Van's answer? Thanks, Glenn in AZ -9A Emp.
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
with all the shifting of rivets around, I came up short 2 of the longer
rivets. I have called vans twice and each time they have discouraged me
from ordering replacements until ready to place another order.
does anyone have a couple they are not going to need? Would appreciate
it if I could have them. I don't know when I will be batching another
order to vans and I would rather not buy 100 from one of the other
suppliers.
John Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 2 fly ins at Bakersfield Municipal Airport (L45) |
> There will be 2 fly ins at Bakersfield Municipal Airport (L45) this year.
> Home of the Harmon Rocket and many fast RV's
>
> 1st Event....2nd annual Peace Wing & Ride May 2nd & 3rd
> This is a fund raiser for C.A.R.E. (Children's Advocates Resource
> Endowment)
> This is a combination Airplanes (GA & Experimental), Hot Rods &
> Motorcycles. There will be a live band, BBQ by the Outback Restaurant and
> many other event's. Fly In on Friday spend the night with Buck Owens @ the
> Crystal Palace, Shuttles & Lodging will be available. Fly In will start AM
> on Saturday Morning May 3rd. For More Info please see the web site
> www.PeaceRide.com or call Tim Barnes @ (611) 393-7519
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **********************************************************************************************
>
> 2nd Event......EAA Chapter 71 annual BBQ & Fly In May 31st.
> This will be just like old times, All Experimental Aircraft welcome,
> BBQ will be Tri-Tip, Beans, Salad, Rolls and Desert
> Plenty of Planes & Hangar Talk. BBQ served around 3:00 pm
> More Info Call John Harmon @ (661) 836-1028 Or Tim Barnes @ (661) 393-7519
>
> Put This on your Calender, Hope To See You There!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joosten, Craig" <CJoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose Electroair Ignition |
Andy, how do you like the Jeff Rose ignition?
Thanks
Craig in Ogden, UT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Electroair Ignition |
Interesting you ask... First off it works great, no problems thus far in 45 hours.
Now the hard part, I have no idea how in the world you would justify / expierence
the benifits of the thing. I know that's bad, but after reading all the glowing
testimonials (that's why I bought it afterall) I installed it and it just
works. I have the timing advance display on my EIS and yes you can see it modify
the timing. It starts on the first or second blade every time cold or hot,
idles nicely, accelerates great, runs nicely at cruise.
Problem is I could have just been describing a great engine with 2 slic mags also
(at least I think so). I do see a similar, but slightly less RPM drop when
turning off the MAG vs the electronic ign, but not the zero RPM drop that others
have reported over the years. I think turning off the Electroair gives about
20RPM more drop.
So is it worth it? I don't really know, but my engine runs sweetly and I am happy
about that every time I go flying!
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>
>Andy, how do you like the Jeff Rose ignition?
>Thanks
>Craig in Ogden, UT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Strong's" <tstrong(at)ida.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ad42H rivets |
Just finished talking with Gus at Van's about the AD42H rivet
problem. I've finished one tank with the wrong (shorter) rivets and was
thinking I'd have to remove these and install the correct rivets. He said
it would be more of a problem to try to remove them. I'll just leave them
and get the correct ones for the next tank.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Wd716 C702 - tipper canopy |
I am working on the tipper canopy and the Wd716 weldement. I have run into
the problem where the outer 3 rivet holes on each side sit way above the
rear tube of the weldement. (Personally I think the weldement is not welded
as designed though VANS assures me they are all like this, and I know others
have had this problem.)
My question is what do people do about it. I hate not to have it joined
however the distance in the worst case is around 3/8ths - too far for a shim
or blind rivet. I would really welcome advice since I have ground to a halt.
(My own view is that the problem is caused by the part not being welded up
as the designer intended. If the notch in the tube was used to stabalise it
in the welding process it would sit higher under the 702 skin holes.)
A minor issue - it is not clear what edge distance I will have on the canopy
hinge holes. How important is this?
I look forward to some help on these two.
Thanks, Steve Sampson
#90360
N Yorks., UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
Well, I'm doing the dreaded deed and taking the dremel to the plexi and I must
say that , so far, it's not so bad. It cuts it very easily, and rubbing the cut
edge with coarse then fine wet n dry wrapped round a block produces a nice smooth
edge. Cutting the canopy in two was a buttock clenching moment but so far
so good. I'm really concerned about using blind rivets to fix the slider part
to the frame..am I alone in this and should I be thinking of drilling and tapping
the frame and fix the canopy with screws for more feel when tightening down....and
has anyone actually cracked their canopy in construction or am I just
being too nervous?
Roy, Sweating in Somerset (and it's not the weather!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cutting |
Roy, your fear of cracking the canopy is justified. The archives are
loaded of such horror stories. I broke two corners off mine but the
scars will be hidden by skirts. I've heard that Van's gives you a
discount on replacement canopies, but in your case that would entail a
big shipping delay. Why are you using a Dremel for cutting? Van's Norton
cutoff wheels on a pneumatic drill work faster. Van's also sells an
inexpensive fixture for holding the wheel in a chuck. I also used a
rotary/vibratory power sander for smoothing the initial cuts. All that
hand-sanding gets old.
Watch out for the C-660 side skirts as the plans call for a nominal 4
9/16" width but the part is only 4 1/2" to begin with. It is possible to
get a good fit of the rear skirts without using an English Wheel or a
Shrinker, but it takes finessing. You might want to order up extra
material to have on hand when you screw the parts up. Also order extra
plastic rollers for when yours get loaded with metal chips.
As has been pointed out on this list earlier, spend lots of time getting
the frame bent correctly.
Leland in Pleasanton
Working on transponder and radio wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Welch, Ivo" <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | performance and prop |
what IAS do you get with your 160hp?
I am trying to gauge performance (on my cato prop). The plane is pretty
clean
(very nice riveting job), few antennas, etc. the temperature at sealevel
was
15 degrees centigrate, 3012 altimeter, clear weather. flight service
indicated
wind from about 320 at 6000' and 9000'. tests below flew west, north, east,
and
then averaged. made little difference to IAS. I flew at 9500'-9,800'
altitude.
of course, tests were run flying level. If I have my conversion right, at
about 10,000', I should multiply IAS by about 1.16 to get TAS.
Full throttle, 2620-2640rpm: IAS = 140mph to 144mph.
==> TAS= 165mph.
[GPS GS ~ 123kt w/ wind [east\ to 188kt ag/ wind [west].]
(Fuel Flow: 8.5gph)
2550rpm: IAS = 134mph to 138mph.
==> TAS= 158mph.
[GPS GS = 179kt with wind [east] to 118kt against wind [west].]
2450rpm: IAS = 130mph to 132mph.
(Fuel Flow: 6.5gph)
Given my 160hp Lycoming, Vans website indicates an RV-9A should reach 196mph
top
speed, 188mph at 75% cruise (which I think is pretty close to 2550rpm). So,
I
think I am going about 25mph IAS less than specified. Is this correct, or
is
my math wrong?
ENGINE QUESTION: I have another performance question: is there any
reasonably
gentle, available, and affordable enhancement to feed the engine more oxygen
at
higher altitudes and w/o stressing it unduly? [I take it that van's does
not
recommend higher hp engines because he is concerned about airspeed. at
higher
altitudes, I am far from critical airspeeds, so here a boost would probably
be
ok. would an oxygen boosted engine have more reliability trouble?
/iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> |
| Subject: | nose wheel fairing question |
It says to finger tight the 3/8 allen screw when installing the forward fairing
support bracket part number U-813D on drawing C1. I can not find anything else
telling us how to final tighten the bolt and there's no space to get the allen
wrench in there, does anyone have a suggestion in short of drilling a hole
in the fairing to insert the wrench?
Steve Dwyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose wheel fairing question |
I drilled holes,5/8" I think, and then covered them with plastic hole plugs
from Lowe's painted to match the fairing. Same for the valve stem access
holes on all 3 fairings, except larger holes....Dick Jones
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: nose wheel fairing question
>
> It says to finger tight the 3/8 allen screw when installing the forward
fairing support bracket part number U-813D on drawing C1. I can not find
anything else telling us how to final tighten the bolt and there's no space
to get the allen wrench in there, does anyone have a suggestion in short of
drilling a hole in the fairing to insert the wrench?
>
> Steve Dwyer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nose wheel fairing question |
What do you plan to do for a tow bar? I left the 3/4 inch holes open and
bought a Cessna style tow bar that clamps over the Allen head studs .
As far as the valve stem holes, I used a 11/2 hole saw and drilled a hole in
each of the rear fairings and a smaller one in the nose gear fairing. Keep
the plugs cut out.
I then cut an aluminum circle about 1/2 inch larger than each of the plugs
you cut out. From Home Depot, I bought three Sawzall metal cutting blades
that were about 3/4 x 6 inches. I ground off the teeth and rounded the ends.
I then drilled the saw blade, the backing plate and the plug that I cut out
together and riveted them together. You now have a nice plug that will fill
almost all of the hole you cut into the fairing.
Drill a hole in the other end of the blade for a 6-32 or 8-32 screw. Put the
whole thing against the fairing and find a good place to drill the screw
hole through the fairing.
Put a plate nut on the screw end of the blade. Install on the inside of the
fairing and you now have a door that will open and allow you access to the
tire stem. I put mine so that the stem is aligned when it is in the 9
o'clock position.
With the plate nut, you can use a screwdriver in the screw to rotate the
door back down if you do not want to reach in and pull it back down.
A cheap nutdriver makes a good tool for removing and installing the cap on
the stem once the fairings are on.
One other item that I have seen that is a help is to go to a auto parts or
truck parts store and get a brass valve stem extension normally used for
dual rear tire setups. The one I saw was about 6 inches long. It will screw
on the valve stem and extend beyond the fairing so you can air the tire up
with any air chuck you have.
Well enough of my ramblings.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL 60hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: nose wheel fairing question
>
> I drilled holes,5/8" I think, and then covered them with plastic hole
plugs
> from Lowe's painted to match the fairing. Same for the valve stem access
> holes on all 3 fairings, except larger holes....Dick Jones
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: nose wheel fairing question
>
>
> >
> > It says to finger tight the 3/8 allen screw when installing the forward
> fairing support bracket part number U-813D on drawing C1. I can not find
> anything else telling us how to final tighten the bolt and there's no
space
> to get the allen wrench in there, does anyone have a suggestion in short
of
> drilling a hole in the fairing to insert the wrench?
> >
> > Steve Dwyer
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | F-724-L & R aft fuse blkhd |
I was ready to install the F-724-R aft fuselage bulkhead. Found that I had
two lefts although one was marked right. Called Van's, they knew of the
problem and have one on its way. You may want to compare the L and R now so
that you don't have to wait. My fuselage kit was shipped at the end of
December. John Clark 90-512
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF) |
I'm hoping for input from folks who are past this point. I installed this
control arm, mounted in the plastic bearing blocks and it was really stiff.
It required a good bit of pressure to move it. I removed it, filed sanded and
polished all the bearing surfaces and put it back in the airplane. It was a
lot better but still quite stiff.
Is this a reason for concern? Does that little flap motot have a lot of
torque? I will appreciate any and all comments.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF) |
Dennis, try loosening the bolts on the center support block to see if
that is the one that is binding. Then be sure you have enough washers
between the halves. Consider a small amount of lubricant on the inner
surfaces especially the center block. If that does not do it, take the
weldment out and check for war page or buckling, which can be
straightened out.
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
Leland, having studied the archive, I can see lots of evidence of cracks occuring
during construction, but equally a lot of people haven't had a problem. I practised
today with a slow speed cordless drill on some scrap plexi using standard
#40, plexi bit, and uni-bit...no cracking. Then I switched to high speed
and really went at it with a lot of pressure...still no cracks although the other
side of the holes showed some chipping. Iwas able to dress these out with
a small grind stone in the drill....all this at 65*F.
Upshot is, I'm going really gentle with #40 first like Van says, enlarge with unibit,
dress holes with mini stone and keep the heat up. I'll use your suggestion
of smoothing edges with vibro sander..still use the Dremel for cutting though!
Of course, banging in those blind rivets still has me nervy!
Another point...is there any provision in the kit for some shock absorbing where
the slider meets the roll bar, mine has a nice even gap all round, but it's
the roller part that hits the roll bar first...that must send a hell of a shock
through the frame when you close it a bit too firmly...still thinking of the
plexi, see!
BTW, I've just had an Avionics guy check out my wiring on the Becker Radio and
Transponder I fitted and I only had one ground in the wrong D-sub terminal, so
quite pleased! The encoder was out by 200' which he adjusted so I hopefully won't
have to go diving into the panel after completion.
Regards, Roy, Somerset, U.K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
04/16/2003 01:07:34 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/16/2003 01:07:34 AM
Roy,
I worked my canopy in the dead of winter and just used a heater under the
canopy to warm it up. I like the dremel with the cut off disks for cutting
the canopy. It cuts like butter with them. I broke a few because they get
so hot cutting but that was not a problem. I tried the cutoff wheel with
the die grinder and found it to be much harder to control and use. A lot
more dust in the air also.
Regarding the shock of the canopy closing. I would not worry about it that
much. The plastic that they use for the canopy is very tough. Try to break
a piece once you have the skirt off the canopy.
BTW there is plenty of extra material so don't worry about cutting to a
fine line first time. I went out about 1 inch beyond where the canopy
final cuts should be and still had plenty of material for the windscreen.
Still had to trim an inch or two off the back of it on final fit.
The best advice I can give is to set the canopy frame inside the canopy
and move it around until it is fitting the best you can get. Then mark it
with a sharpie and cut outside of the line.
Drilling is the biggest problem. Normal metal cutting bits will tend to
screw into the plexi if you give them a chance. That is why they recommend
the flat blade ceramic drill bits. When riveting, just make sure that the
canopy is warm to the touch and you should not have a problem. Practice
on a few scraps from the canopy skirt if you want to. You can rivet and
drill all day long if the material is warm. Just make sure that the holes
are a bit bigger than the rivet or screw.
One trick that you may know is to take regular tan masking tape and put a
strip along where the canopy will set. You will see a line that is darker
than the rest of the tape where the canopy touches the frame. Drill there
and you will not put any additional stress on the canopy. It also aligns
your holes better than you think.
As far as the front seal area, in the Wicks catalog I saw some rubber
molding for a Mooney that is about the right thickness and shape to make a
nice seal and bumper cushion. I filled the area under the windscreen to
the canopy bow so that it was flush with the edge of the bow and 90
degrees to the fiberglass layup that you do on the top of the windscreen.
This left me with a nice flat surface to mount the rubber molding to.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N184DL 60hrs
"Roy Taylor"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
04/15/2003 05:23 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy
Leland, having studied the archive, I can see lots of evidence of cracks
occuring during construction, but equally a lot of people haven't had a
problem. I practised today with a slow speed cordless drill on some scrap
plexi using standard #40, plexi bit, and uni-bit...no cracking. Then I
switched to high speed and really went at it with a lot of
pressure...still no cracks although the other side of the holes showed
some chipping. Iwas able to dress these out with a small grind stone in
the drill....all this at 65*F.
Upshot is, I'm going really gentle with #40 first like Van says, enlarge
with unibit, dress holes with mini stone and keep the heat up. I'll use
your suggestion of smoothing edges with vibro sander..still use the Dremel
for cutting though!
Of course, banging in those blind rivets still has me nervy!
Another point...is there any provision in the kit for some shock absorbing
where the slider meets the roll bar, mine has a nice even gap all round,
but it's the roller part that hits the roll bar first...that must send a
hell of a shock through the frame when you close it a bit too
firmly...still thinking of the plexi, see!
BTW, I've just had an Avionics guy check out my wiring on the Becker Radio
and Transponder I fitted and I only had one ground in the wrong D-sub
terminal, so quite pleased! The encoder was out by 200' which he adjusted
so I hopefully won't have to go diving into the panel after completion.
Regards, Roy, Somerset, U.K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
Larry, thanks, lots of useful stuff there..one more thing if you can all stand
it, is it best to drill straight through the canopy into and through the frame
tubes, or drill through the plexi and just enough to mark the tubes, then take
the canopy off and finish drilling the holes in the frame?
Roy. G-RUVY Somerset, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Roy,
I would just mark it and then drill the steel with a good metal bit, If you
could control the speed that the metal bit went into the plexi, then you
could drill it all at once. The bit tends to grab and screw it into the
plexi. That is when you really stand a change if a break.
Regards
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy
>
> Larry, thanks, lots of useful stuff there..one more thing if you can all
stand it, is it best to drill straight through the canopy into and through
the frame tubes, or drill through the plexi and just enough to mark the
tubes, then take the canopy off and finish drilling the holes in the frame?
> Roy. G-RUVY Somerset, UK.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Loosening screws by vibration |
I am wiring up the panel and wonder what keeps the screws on the
switches and breakers from coming loose. The switch/breaker screws have
flat washers at best and some of the switches don't even have washers,
leave alone lock washers or lock nuts. Is it best to put these in with a
thread locking compound, or is there a better way?
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | switch and breaker screw connections |
The only thing I've used over many years are internal tooth lock washers.
Can't ever recall one coming loose. Matter of fact, the manufacturers claim
they tend to dig in more with vibration. They are available from size #2 up
to 1/2 in. in stainless from www.smallparts.com. Size #2 thru #10 are $3.50
per hundred or $1.15 per 25.
Such a deal!
Bob Devaney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Loosening screws by vibration |
Yes, there is a much better way. Use the fast-on connectors advocated by Nuckolls
at Aeroelectric Connection.
I suppose this won't help you much at this point, if you already have the screw
type switches and breakers.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Leland
To: RV9 List
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 12:01 AM
Subject: RV9-List: Loosening screws by vibration
I am wiring up the panel and wonder what keeps the screws on the
switches and breakers from coming loose. The switch/breaker screws have
flat washers at best and some of the switches don't even have washers,
leave alone lock washers or lock nuts. Is it best to put these in with a
thread locking compound, or is there a better way?
Leland in Pleasanton
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
What is good practice with the nosewheel? Does the interior need to be
primed and the exterior primed and painted or is it in fact anodised?
Thanks, Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
I etched and primed the fork assembly, but left the actual nosewheel alone. It
seemed nice and shiny, but I'm not clear if it's protected or not.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 05:57:17 +0100
>
>What is good practice with the nosewheel? Does the interior need to be
>primed and the exterior primed and painted or is it in fact anodised?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Husek" <husek(at)clis.com> |
Please help me if you can..I can't get unsubscribed to the matronisc email
lists...I am receiving over 300 messages per day!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nose wheel
>
> I etched and primed the fork assembly, but left the actual nosewheel
alone. It seemed nice and shiny, but I'm not clear if it's protected or not.
>
> - Andy
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 05:57:17 +0100
>
> >
> >What is good practice with the nosewheel? Does the interior need to be
> >primed and the exterior primed and painted or is it in fact anodised?
> >
> >Thanks, Steve.
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server]
>
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Got to READ... At the bottom of each every message is this line.
UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Click on it and change your subscription.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Husek" <husek(at)clis.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nose wheel
>
> Please help me if you can..I can't get unsubscribed to the matronisc email
> lists...I am receiving over 300 messages per day!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nose wheel
>
>
> >
> > I etched and primed the fork assembly, but left the actual nosewheel
> alone. It seemed nice and shiny, but I'm not clear if it's protected or
not.
> >
> > - Andy
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> > From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
> > Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 05:57:17 +0100
> >
>
> > >
> > >What is good practice with the nosewheel? Does the interior need to be
> > >primed and the exterior primed and painted or is it in fact anodised?
> > >
> > >Thanks, Steve.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server]
> >
> >
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ssss" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
having fun flying.
Albert Gardner
9-0132
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New 9A Flying |
Congtratulations Al. Keep flying and keep on having fun.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Awesome News!!
Congratulations, and keep us posted with your flight data.
-Ted Strand-
Clearwater, FL
Wing Skeleton
-----Original Message-----
From: ssss [mailto:albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Subject: RV9-List: New 9A Flying
After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours
total.
Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly
just
having fun flying.
Albert Gardner
9-0132
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
Excellent! Congratulations Albert!
Keep us posted on your test period data. We would all like to hear what kind of
performance you're getting and how your engine and prop combination is working
out.
Todd Houg
90196 - still way behind Albert!
-----Original Message-----
From: ssss
Subject: RV9-List: New 9A Flying
After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
having fun flying.
Albert Gardner
9-0132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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Piepers <j.piepers(at)prevalent.nl> |
Congratulations!!!
And many happy landings!
John Piepers
RV-7A cobuilder in the Netherlands
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: ssss [mailto:albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Verzonden: vrijdag 18 april 2003 4:42
Aan: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV9-List: New 9A Flying
After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
having fun flying. Albert Gardner 9-0132
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New 9A Flying |
Congrats Albert! Keep the shiny side up. I am definately jealous.
But it gives me reason to get back to work. No more excuses about
the cold winter. Time to get 'cookin'.
Barry Pote RV9a canopy
Ted Strand wrote:
>
>Awesome News!!
>
>Congratulations, and keep us posted with your flight data.
>
>-Ted Strand-
>Clearwater, FL
>Wing Skeleton
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: ssss [mailto:albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net]
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: New 9A Flying
>
>
>After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours
>total.
>Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly
>just
>having fun flying.
>Albert Gardner
>9-0132
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9(a) Empty Weights |
For those of you flying.. what did your final aircraft empty weight come out
to be?
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Tail
N523RV Rsvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9(a) Empty Weights |
1088 lbs with an O-320 and fixed pitch alunimum prop. Dick Jones 90062
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: RV-9(a) Empty Weights
>
> For those of you flying.. what did your final aircraft empty weight come
out
> to be?
>
> Matthew Brandes
> RV-9A Tail
> N523RV Rsvd.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ssss" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9(a) Empty Weights |
1104 pounds, O-320, metal fp, dual steps, dual elec trim, 1 nav/com.
Albert Gardner
N872RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9(a) Empty Weights |
1034lbs with just painted interior, oregon aero seats, no carpet, Day/Night VFR,
Aerosport 0-320, Sensenich metal prop... No exterior paint, but all fairings
installed.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 08:27:21 -0500
>
>For those of you flying.. what did your final aircraft empty weight come out
>to be?
>
>Matthew Brandes
>RV-9A Tail
>N523RV Rsvd.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New 9A Flying |
Most excellent news Albert!
I can say that with 50 hours in 6 weeks of flying it does just keep getting better
and better!
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "ssss" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 19:42:06 -0700
>
>After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
>Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
>having fun flying.
>Albert Gardner
>9-0132
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Alexander <don_shirley(at)propjock.com> |
| Subject: | re:New 9A Flying |
Congratulations Albert! I'd love to hear more of the details - engine, options,
etc. and I'd love to see data after you've gathered it and sorted it out...or
just post raw data as you collect it...I love seeing others sort it out and
get 15 different answers! Don 90702 Empennage nearly done and waiting on the
wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New 9A Flying |
Way to go Albert! I'm about nine months out and frothing at the mouth to
get up there too!
Chuck Weyant (Painting the Panel)
Santa Maria, CA
----- Original Message -----
> After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
> Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
> having fun flying.
> Albert Gardner
> 9-0132
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New 9A Flying |
Albert,
Welcome to the club. Now all that work is finally paying off.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL 60 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "ssss" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV9-List: New 9A Flying
>
> After 2-1/2 years N872RV has left the ground and now has 3.5 hours total.
> Flys great and so far performs very nice. Collecting data but mainly just
> having fun flying.
> Albert Gardner
> 9-0132
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVonDolen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Static Source Location |
I'm unclear about where to drill the holes for my static ports. The sketch
included with the static kit showed them just in front of the 707 bulkhead,
yet the dwg showing all the skin rivet callouts shows them just foward of the
708 bulkhead. And I've seen it both places on actual RV's.
I'm thinking it dosent't really matter but would like to hear from you gurus.
Thanks,
John Von Dohlen
(about to start plumbing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Source Location |
John............Follow the drawings for your plane, not the static kit. The static
kit is probably for all models, and may show the location for a 6 or something.
It does matter. Van's went to a lot of trouble to find a good spot for the ports.
On my -9A they are in front of the 708 bulkhead, near the shoulder harness cable
attach points.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: JVonDolen(at)aol.com
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 2:48 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Static Source Location
I'm unclear about where to drill the holes for my static ports. The sketch
included with the static kit showed them just in front of the 707 bulkhead,
yet the dwg showing all the skin rivet callouts shows them just foward of the
708 bulkhead. And I've seen it both places on actual RV's.
I'm thinking it dosent't really matter but would like to hear from you gurus.
Thanks,
John Von Dohlen
(about to start plumbing)
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Welch, Ivo" <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | need avionics guy on east coast |
hi guys: I think I have posted this once before, but I have definitely not
solved my problem yet. I am planning on a panel revamp, and I need an
affordable avionics installer on the east coast. (I am not the builder, and
I
have two left hands anyway.) The avionics are mostly already installed,
though
some need to be moved, and some need to be added. if you have someone to
recommend, I would love to find out.
thanks, /iaw
PS: I am planning to replace my Catto prop with a Sensenich prop. I think
my
Catto prop is more of a climb prop right now. If Kevin is not going to have
use
for it in his next project, I will probably need to sell it in around
July.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Andy - thanks for that. I decided while I had it in bits to give it a light
etch prime. I think it is 'raw'. I will paint the outer faces later. Thanks,
Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nose wheel
I etched and primed the fork assembly, but left the actual nosewheel alone.
It seemed nice and shiny, but I'm not clear if it's protected or not.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 05:57:17 +0100
>
>What is good practice with the nosewheel? Does the interior need to be
>primed and the exterior primed and painted or is it in fact anodised?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hosie" <jhosie4(at)attbi.com> |
HI,
Has anyone got the point of measuring the glide ratio of a 9A?
Thanks
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Glide Ratio 9A |
Jim,
Not measured data, but taking Van's numbers of 500 fpm min sink at around
65-70 mph, you come up with something in the 12-14:1 range.
Bob Kelly
Still tooling
On 21-Apr-03, Jim Hosie wrote:
>
> HI,
> Has anyone got the point of measuring the glide ratio of a 9A?
> Thanks
> Jim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Is anyone out there flying an RV9 with a 150 horse with a fixed pitch prop.
Looking at the catologue they recommend 77" pitch,but I wonder if I couldn't
get away with a bit more.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glide Ratio 9A |
Bob Kelly wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Not measured data, but taking Van's numbers of 500 fpm min sink at around
> 65-70 mph, you come up with something in the 12-14:1 range.
Not acording to my calculations. First I am assuming that the 65-70 mph is
true air speed. 1 mph = 88 fpm so 65 mph = 5720 fpm dividing that by 500
fpm, you get 11.44:1 glide ratio. 70 mph = 6160 fpm and dividing that by 500
fpm, you get a glide ratio of 12.32:1. Just call it 12:1, a heck of a lot
better than your average spam can!
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Flap miscellaneous questions... |
I am finishing the flaps for my RV9A and find that the left flap ends up
with a slight twist - maybe 1/8 tp 3/16 at the tip. I know Van's
cautions against twist, but is this too much or am I being too picky. I
suspect that I know what caused this - the left inboard nose skin was
much wider open than the other nose skins and when I clecoed everything
together I had to really horse it in and it put an uneven strain on the
assembly, causing the slight twist.
The drawing for the W-917 pushrod assembly shows a length of 94 7/32".
One end of the dimension points to the center of the bearing while the
other end points to some indeterminate point on the side of the bearing.
Should the length be measured from center to center of the bearings or
is it not that critical?
The flaps are mounted with a drilled bolt, two washers and a castellated
nut. If I tighten down the nut on the assembly the cotter pin is
basically above the castellations on the nut. How tight is the nut
supposed to be? Or should it be left loose so the cotter pin actually
goes through the castellations? If I make it loose enough for the
cotter pin to work properly, the assembly will have about 0.075-0.10'
extra space. Or should I use thicker washers?
Thanks,
Dick Tasker, 09573
Left wing (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper(at)flash.net> |
I was wondering if anyone is planning to use the RiteAngle angle of attack
indicator. It is a vane type of unit. We had a presentation/demonstration at
our EAA meeting and, one of our chapter members has one installed on his
Q200 and swears by it.
Just for installation info.
Ralph
Wings
Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
The installation instructions for my ACK ELT say to mount it so that a
100 pound force applied to it in any direction will not cause a 0.1"
movement. I initially mounted the unit to one of the side panels behind
the pilot's seat. I added stiffeners and sheet metal doublers but the
deflection exceeded the specification for a 20 pound force. I then
copied the method used by two local area builders and mounted it to the
floor of the baggage compartment with 0.062" plates top and bottom of
the floor. The plates span two close lying ribs and are attached with
six #8 screws and nutplates. The ELT is rock solid now.
Note, Van's prepunched panel is cutout for the Ameri-King ELT display
rather than for the ACK unit.
Leland in Pleasanton
Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Waterborne poly acrylic paint |
I had read glowing reports of Aircraft Finishing Systems waterborne poly
acrylic paint, so I decided to try it on my cowl. The base coat was a
disaster, possibly mine, maybe not. Anyway I called the company to
discuss the problem. I got no sympathy, only accusations that I had
ordered the wrong primer. When I asked about returning the finish
coat, more accusations. The company could not accept returned paint; I
might have contaminated it. (The seal is still intact). They didn't
know where I had stored the paint; the temperature may have been wrong.
Finally I gave up and told them that. They then said to return the
paint and they would see if they could give me any refund. Didn't sound
promising; it wasn't worth the hassle of shipping it back.
Caveat emptor!
90487
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap miscellaneous questions... |
The twist issue is up to you and what level of "perfection" you want on your plane.
It will fly just fine. You can raise and lower each flap a tad to adjust
them and make it fly straight. It's only a tiny amount of drag being added and
won't be noticed.
As for the pivot bolts, I asked Vans this same question. They are to be finger
tight, just tighten until they touch and then back off just a hair. They should
pivot freely. If the cotter pin won't engage then use more washers until it
fits properly. (this is standard procedure anytime you are using cotter pins)
- Andy Karmy
RV9A Seattle WA (52hrs TT)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Waterborne poly acrylic paint |
Nice.... Sorry to hear that you had so much trouble.
By the way, what primer did you use under the top coat?
One thing that is critical with all paint systems (waterbourne or not) is to use
compatible paints/primers/thinners/ etc etc etc.
When I painted fiberglass (or metal) with AFS I used the 1 part poly primer/sealer
(same as the interior skins) then spray the top coat over that.
For the rest of us to learn, what was the "disaster" that you speak of?
Maby some of us that have used it can help???
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 11:14:40 -0400
>
>I had read glowing reports of Aircraft Finishing Systems waterborne poly
>acrylic paint, so I decided to try it on my cowl. The base coat was a
>disaster, possibly mine, maybe not. Anyway I called the company to
>discuss the problem. I got no sympathy, only accusations that I had
>ordered the wrong primer. When I asked about returning the finish
>coat, more accusations. The company could not accept returned paint; I
>might have contaminated it. (The seal is still intact). They didn't
>know where I had stored the paint; the temperature may have been wrong.
>Finally I gave up and told them that. They then said to return the
>paint and they would see if they could give me any refund. Didn't sound
>promising; it wasn't worth the hassle of shipping it back.
>
>Caveat emptor!
>
>90487
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
Has anyone had problems with the 911's that fit in the wing root.(The
wing step area) Ribs do not fit, they have to forced in leaving a slight
bow in the rib. They slide in ok on the rest of the spar. Its almost like
the flange of the spar is bent in. Any fix it ideas.
Joe RV9A wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
Forget the wing root ribs Im looking at the left wing print while working
on the right wing (the rib R and L are switched around. Geeeeees Ive got
a long way to go.
Joe Right wing RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | instrument panel |
Can anyone point me to the web site where one can "draw" an instrument panel.
There used to be one a while back.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel |
http://www.epanelbuilder.com/
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Peter Laurence <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:57:00 -0400
>
>Can anyone point me to the web site where one can "draw" an instrument panel.
>
>There used to be one a while back.
>
>
>Peter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Welch, Ivo" <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | glide ratio again, flight characteristics, and riteangle |
At 65mph, my plane seems to be in slow flight already, suggesting a lot of
drag.
so, my guess is that this is not such a great speed. This is not
scientific,
but when I flew yesterday at 80mph, my sink rate seemed to be only about
200fpm.
(I could be wrong. This is from memory.)
Q: So, what is the best glide speed and glide ratio?
Ralph: I have a RiteAngle installed. For the most part, I find it to be so
unnecessary, that it is a waste of money. Kevin (the builder) told me it
was
not necessary, but of course I was more than a bit overcautious. In fact, I
was
really hyper, being a new pilot and having learned in a Piper Cherokee that
requires a stall warning light for operation. The reason why it is not
necessary on the RV-9A is that your perspective angle has to be practically
the
equivalent of a >2000fpm climb for the RV-9A to stall. There is absolutely
no
way that you would not notice a stall coming way, way, way ahead of time.
And
the stall itself is harmless, too. The 9A is one incredible calm performer
in
the air.
Take the money and save it for an altrak (from trutrak) altitude hold. 9As
may
not be as fidgety as RV7's, but they are not especially stable. Unstable
sounds
bad, but I think it is the correct term here. It is harmless in this
context.
That is, it is very easy to gain 100'-300' before the loss of speed plane
ever
so slightly buffets down again from the loss of speed. The altitude
oscillations do dampen, but very, very slowly. The 9A just loves to fly.
Anybody who learned in a Piper will find to be the biggest problem realizing
how
long the 9A wants to glide. The flight characteristics seem almost close to
a
motor-glider airplane.
(Now, ground handling is another matter. It is not awful, but it is also
definitely not as easy as that of a Piper.)
Q: Are any aerobatic maneuvers permitted in the 9A? Has anyone tried some?
/iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
Hey, sounds like the rest of us. I am working on intersection fairings for the
wheel pants, and I can still do things like that and worse! You are doing fine.
Have fun, and check your work!
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Wiza
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 10:10 AM
Subject: RV9-List: Wing ribs
Forget the wing root ribs Im looking at the left wing print while working
on the right wing (the rib R and L are switched around. Geeeeees Ive got
a long way to go.
Joe Right wing RV9A
---
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all,
I'm looking for a CAD file for the RV9 instrument panel
Thanks in advance
Peter Laurence
RV9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
Peter,
Check out my website at http://www.toddhoug.com . There's an Autocad file available for download that that came direct from Vans. There's a link on the front page just below the engine picture.
Todd Houg
N194TH reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence [mailto:plaurence@the-beach.net]
Subject: RV9-List: cad file
Hi all,
I'm looking for a CAD file for the RV9 instrument panel
Thanks in advance
Peter Laurence
RV9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Huft ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Huft
Subject: The entire Pagosa Springs wing of Van's Airforce.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/aflyer@direcway.com.04.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: glide ratio again, flight characteristics, and riteangle |
>At 65mph, my plane seems to be in slow flight already
>but when I flew yesterday at 80mph, my sink rate seemed to be
>only about 200fpm.
I think 200fpm is a bit low... I seem to remember Kevin originally posting about
500fpm was min on that plane.
>Q: So, what is the best glide speed and glide ratio?
In mine min FPM sink is about 600fpm at 70mph. I have verified my ASI at both low
and high speed with GPS and another plane.
>There is absolutely no way that you would not notice a stall
>coming way, way, way ahead of time.
I tend to agree. This is why I also did not think it necessary to put in the right
angle. I think the place where it would be neat is to determine best LD for
glide. At any weight and density altitude you can fly the best glide with an
AOA instrument.
As for stalls, if you want to have some fun with them. Roll over into a 80 degree
4G level turn, then pull back until it stalls. It happens at about 90mph and
throws you to level. Or another fun one is fully cross controlled rudder & aileron,
pull into a stall and bam you're inverted! Nice... Don't try this on the
base to final turn that's for sure. But like Ivo said you have to really try
to get this type of behaviour out of the RV9, it's not in the standard flight
conditions that you will find it.
>Q: Are any aerobatic maneuvers permitted in the 9A?
>Has anyone tried some?
Define permitted... Remember these are homebuilts, they have limits that must be
obeyed, they don't have "restrictions" per say... :)
Lots of sky turning can be had within +4.4G -1.7G Utility category limits that
the RV9 is built to.
- Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuselage Bag 1973 |
Did any of you by chance receive bag 1973 with your fuselage kits? Under the
bag descriptions it lists bag 1973 as having a few washers (5702-75-60) that
I need for the control stick hook up, but my pick list only shows bag 1973-1
(which only contains rubber washers). Thanks for any info.
Doug Lomheim
90116 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVonDolen(at)aol.com |
Well after mangling some perfectly good 3/8ths tubing I am starting to
believe that it may actually be possible to make and install these lines. I
have reversed the brake and fuel lines (or plan to) and am thinking the most
difficult part are the little offsets
you have to make as the two fuel lines twist around each other going to the
opposite ports on the fuel valve. Of course this arrangement gives a pretty
intuitive fuel valve handle interpetation, but if it was reversed (especially
if I hadn't already ground off the little pointer) with some sort of pointer
added or maybe a red arrow painted on the top of the handle directed at "left
tank/right tank" decals positioned in the lower left and right quadrants of
the fuel valve plate, that should be pretty brain dead too. And the two fuel
lines would be way easier to do if the cross over was avoided.
I can't help but believe that those ends are subjected to some trama as the
offsets are put in.
Is this heresy or has anyone actually done it reversed, ie, straight fuel
line runs, and what is your opinion about this?
Thanks,
John Von Dohlen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
I didn't have too much trouble making mine cross over so the valve is intuitive.
I thought that crossing them over actually gave more room for the bends.
I ground off the little pointer and use the handle for the pointer. I did switch
the lines where they go through the little brackets and gear webs, as you
say.
I could send a photo off list if you want.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: JVonDolen(at)aol.com
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:23 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Fuel Lines
Well after mangling some perfectly good 3/8ths tubing I am starting to
believe that it may actually be possible to make and install these lines. I
have reversed the brake and fuel lines (or plan to) and am thinking the most
difficult part are the little offsets
you have to make as the two fuel lines twist around each other going to the
opposite ports on the fuel valve. Of course this arrangement gives a pretty
intuitive fuel valve handle interpetation, but if it was reversed (especially
if I hadn't already ground off the little pointer) with some sort of pointer
added or maybe a red arrow painted on the top of the handle directed at "left
tank/right tank" decals positioned in the lower left and right quadrants of
the fuel valve plate, that should be pretty brain dead too. And the two fuel
lines would be way easier to do if the cross over was avoided.
I can't help but believe that those ends are subjected to some trama as the
offsets are put in.
Is this heresy or has anyone actually done it reversed, ie, straight fuel
line runs, and what is your opinion about this?
Thanks,
John Von Dohlen
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Welch, Ivo" <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: glide ratio again, flight characteristics, and riteangle |
hi andy: I have minimal positive thrust even in idle, because my small prop
(little inertia) requires more RPM to reliably keep the engine alive.
However,
I am very surprised that you only get 500fpm minimal glide. My airplane
does
seem to have less FPM. I will check again with another prop in a month or
so,
and report back.
The AOA from Riteangle is not a precise instrument for glideslope flying.
It is
more of an advanced emergency warning. (It only has some LEDs as meter.) I
can
only repeat that I would rather spend the money on a Dynon EFIS or on a
trutrak
Altrak. Which reminds me: I still need to locate a good and affordable
avionics
shop on the east coast.
Hmmm...I have never tried any aerobatics, so I better start looking for a
good
instructor. I have no idea what +4.4G -1.7G really means in practice. Is
there
a list of "good idea maneuvers" and "bad idea maneuvers" within this range?
(Yes, I know that even in straight flight I could exceed this; still, some
guidelines here would help.)
Regards,
/iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Bag 1973 |
Doug
I received bag 1973 with my fuselage kit, S/N 90095, which was also
correctly listed on my pick list. It had to be some kind of hitch at Van's
in the pick list that caused the wrong bag to be pulled for your kit.
Dean Van Winkle
Fuselage/Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fuselage Bag 1973
>
> Did any of you by chance receive bag 1973 with your fuselage kits? Under
the
> bag descriptions it lists bag 1973 as having a few washers (5702-75-60)
that
> I need for the control stick hook up, but my pick list only shows bag
1973-1
> (which only contains rubber washers). Thanks for any info.
>
> Doug Lomheim
> 90116 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVonDolen(at)aol.com |
Thans Gary, actualy I've played with it some more and now feel that the
crossover arrangement might actually be easier--you've got more distance from
the snap bushing to make vertical adjustments.
John Von Dohlen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | Ordering Wings - What else? |
I'm going to be placing my order for wings early next week and I know not
everything I am going to need comes with. I'd like to see if I can get
lucky and order all the 'extra' parts in one shot from Van's. I'm
soliciting the groups ideas for the 'extra's' I need to purchase. I'll
compile a list and make it available for others.
Here's my short list so far.
- Fuel senders
- Landing lights?
- Conduit for wiring
- Pitot (if not using homemade version)
Surely there are other items I'm going to need. Any special tools that I
didn't need when building the empennage? (Already purchased tank dimple
dies.)
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Wings soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ordering Wings - What else? |
Wing tip lights/strobes I also ordered the tip with flush lenses.
Plate nuts and screws for wing tip mounting if you plan to make them
removable.
I also ordered the fuel pick ups already made up. You might want to pick up
the ProSeal tank sealant depending on how long it will be. It theoretically
has a shelf life of 6 months, but is typically 2 months old (dated) when you
get it. I delayed my second tank until after the first wing was done and it
had expired. I ordered more. Testing showed the cure rates were the same
for both batches, but better safe than sorry. In the whole scheme of
things, what is another $35.
John Oliveira
Working of fuselage 90054 N909RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Ordering Wings - What else?
>
> I'm going to be placing my order for wings early next week and I know not
> everything I am going to need comes with. I'd like to see if I can get
> lucky and order all the 'extra' parts in one shot from Van's. I'm
> soliciting the groups ideas for the 'extra's' I need to purchase. I'll
> compile a list and make it available for others.
>
> Here's my short list so far.
>
> - Fuel senders
> - Landing lights?
> - Conduit for wiring
> - Pitot (if not using homemade version)
>
> Surely there are other items I'm going to need. Any special tools that I
> didn't need when building the empennage? (Already purchased tank dimple
> dies.)
>
> Matthew Brandes
> RV-9A Wings soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ordering Wings - What else? |
Thought of a couple of tools.
1. Long Back Riveting set from Avery.
2. Mushroom Back Riveting bucking bar. I did backriveted all my upper wing
skins and definitely worth it.
3. If you have a rivet squeezer (pneumatic) get the long thin Jaws without
a hole. they get to a lot of places, and will do the whole rear spar as
they reach over the upper skin sticking out.
4 Also time to get a flaring tool or borrow it as you need it right away
for the tank vents. The one for about $75 from Avery is real nice. It does
multiple tube sizes.
John Oliveira
Working on Fuselage 90054 N909RV
Can hardly wait to be able to come back "niner Romeo Victor"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Ordering Wings - What else?
>
> I'm going to be placing my order for wings early next week and I know not
> everything I am going to need comes with. I'd like to see if I can get
> lucky and order all the 'extra' parts in one shot from Van's. I'm
> soliciting the groups ideas for the 'extra's' I need to purchase. I'll
> compile a list and make it available for others.
>
> Here's my short list so far.
>
> - Fuel senders
> - Landing lights?
> - Conduit for wiring
> - Pitot (if not using homemade version)
>
> Surely there are other items I'm going to need. Any special tools that I
> didn't need when building the empennage? (Already purchased tank dimple
> dies.)
>
> Matthew Brandes
> RV-9A Wings soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ordering Wings - What else? |
Proseal lasts for years kept in the freezer. Even the Military does this.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: John Oliveira
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Ordering Wings - What else?
Wing tip lights/strobes I also ordered the tip with flush lenses.
Plate nuts and screws for wing tip mounting if you plan to make them
removable.
I also ordered the fuel pick ups already made up. You might want to pick up
the ProSeal tank sealant depending on how long it will be. It theoretically
has a shelf life of 6 months, but is typically 2 months old (dated) when you
get it. I delayed my second tank until after the first wing was done and it
had expired. I ordered more. Testing showed the cure rates were the same
for both batches, but better safe than sorry. In the whole scheme of
things, what is another $35.
John Oliveira
Working of fuselage 90054 N909RV
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
You will need a flaring tool for your fuel lines, fuel tank vent line and
pitotlines. Be sure you get a 37 degree aircraft tool and not the 45 degree
automotive type.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z(at)earthlink.net> |
Ivo,
Please do not consider get aerobatic instruction in the RV-9.
Any airplane can handle the odd aileron roll, but you have to know how to do it.
The first aileron roll I tried, after being shown by my aerobatic instructor,
ended in a split S, and that was in a 100 HP Citabia.
RV's are very clean and build up airspeed VERY fast when pointed down hill. Don't
ask how I know.
Your best bet is to swap rides with someone with of the other RV's.
If you are ever in the SF Bay area I'd gladly give you a ride in a 4.
Bruce
Fus. -9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bottom inboard skin |
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
Well I got the top skins on drilled and clecod. I tried to attach the
lower w904r skin to the right wing and the spar holes dont line up??????
anyone have this problem.
Joe RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burden" <db1yg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Skin Dimpling |
I have finished my RV9A HS and VS--starting on the Elevator and Rudder. I have
a vise grip style hand dimpler and the big Avery style workbench top dimpler.
How do you dimple the Elevator skin to stiffener holes which are closest to
the curved forward segment of the elevator skin. It seems to me that with the
.016 skin any attempt to "open" the folded skin beyond about 40 degrees to accesss
with the Avery dimpler would surely crease (and ruin) the skin.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Dave B.
78 Mooney and "Someday" an RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Skin Dimpling |
If I recall corrrectly I had no problem opening the skin up to nearly 90
deg. I was worried at first too but that metal is pretty good at taking a
bend and coming back to original position. If you don't like that try the
Avery tool called a "Pop Rivet Dimpler" that will dimple using a Pop Rivet
Tool. See Pg. 11 of the 2003 Avery Catalog.
Mike Duiven
N711ED (Res.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burden" <db1yg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Skin Dimpling
>
> I have finished my RV9A HS and VS--starting on the Elevator and Rudder. I
have a vise grip style hand dimpler and the big Avery style workbench top
dimpler. How do you dimple the Elevator skin to stiffener holes which are
closest to the curved forward segment of the elevator skin. It seems to me
that with the .016 skin any attempt to "open" the folded skin beyond about
40 degrees to accesss with the Avery dimpler would surely crease (and ruin)
the skin.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Dave B.
> 78 Mooney and "Someday" an RV9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | dimpling elevator skin |
Dave-
One of the techniques for dimpling those kinds of skins is to use the
benchtop dimpler, attach it to the front of the bench top using a U-shaped
clamp (I used a piece of pipe-hanger strapping) loosely enough so that you
can slide the tool forward and backward as needed, and so it can overhang the
bench top. Put the skin in the tool so the "bent" side hangs down. This way,
the skin doesn't have to open up all the way- it only has to open enough to
fold under the tool, and under the bench top. This leave a clear field on top
to align the skin and swing the hammer. Be sure you support the sides so it
hangs straight across the die, or it'll make crooked dimples and tool marks
in that thin skin. Don't ask me how I know!
Ed Winne
RV9A
Jonestown PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Skin Dimpling |
They Open up just fine. I don't recall taking any special precautions and
they did not wrinkle or crease. I recall spreading them to about 80
degrees. I think I left the plastic on while dimpling.
John Oliveira
90054
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burden" <db1yg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Skin Dimpling
>
> I have finished my RV9A HS and VS--starting on the Elevator and Rudder. I
have a vise grip style hand dimpler and the big Avery style workbench top
dimpler. How do you dimple the Elevator skin to stiffener holes which are
closest to the curved forward segment of the elevator skin. It seems to me
that with the .016 skin any attempt to "open" the folded skin beyond about
40 degrees to accesss with the Avery dimpler would surely crease (and ruin)
the skin.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Dave B.
> 78 Mooney and "Someday" an RV9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Greg Hunsicker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Greg Hunsicker
Subject: 4 Ship Formation
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gh2538@cjnetworks.com.05.03.03/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/02/03 |
Dave,
Don't worry about bending the elevators wide open. I clamped a long level
to the inside of the skin (to keep it straight) then pulled it open and used
tape to hold it to the table. If you look around some builder sites, you'll
see examples, but go for it.
BTW, I just finished the leading edge of my rudder and I would recommend
"rolling" it BEFORE you mount the counterbalance skin/weight. You'll have
much better access. (I also used an edge roller to get a good seam on the
overlap.)
Matthew
RV-9A Emp.
N523RV Rsvd.
-----Original Message-----
From: "David Burden" <db1yg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Skin Dimpling
I have finished my RV9A HS and VS--starting on the Elevator and Rudder.
I have
a vise grip style hand dimpler and the big Avery style workbench top
dimpler.
How do you dimple the Elevator skin to stiffener holes which are closest
to
the curved forward segment of the elevator skin. It seems to me that
with the
.016 skin any attempt to "open" the folded skin beyond about 40 degrees
to accesss
with the Avery dimpler would surely crease (and ruin) the skin.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Dave B.
78 Mooney and "Someday" an RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bottom inboard skin |
| From: | Joe Wiza <planejoel(at)juno.com> |
Operator problem, Disregard my problem I clecoed into the main spa
RV69A Joe
r then with a little nudge here and there everything fell into place.
>
> Well I got the top skins on drilled and clecod. I tried to attach
> the
> lower w904r skin to the right wing and the spar holes dont line
> up??????
> anyone have this problem.
>
>
> Joe RV9A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
I need oops rivets longer than -6. 7 or 8's woulf be good. Van's and A/C
Spruce only stock them up to 6's. Anybody know where I can find them?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS Rivets ?? |
Try a 1/8, and shave the head.
John Oliveira
Fuselage 90054
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: OOPS Rivets ??
>
> I need oops rivets longer than -6. 7 or 8's woulf be good. Van's and A/C
> Spruce only stock them up to 6's. Anybody know where I can find them?
>
> Dennis Thomas
> fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
When placing the main ribs into the rear of the horizontal stab forward spar the
forward most hole in the main rib tab (flange) does not line up with the"matched
"hole in the flange of the forward spar.
I'm off about a third of the hole diameter . The rib would have to be moved further
forward to line up.
Has anyone had this problem or is it a computer mismatch at Vans.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Kowalski" <salned(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Parachutes for Sale |
Two new strong Parachutes for sale. $1200.00 each new. One back and One seat.
$600.00 each plus shipping and handling.
E-mail salned(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS Rivets ?? |
is there a rivet that will eliminate my "oops"?
----- Original Message -----
From: DThomas773(at)aol.com
Date: Sunday, May 4, 2003 9:45 pm
Subject: RV9-List: OOPS Rivets ??
>
> I need oops rivets longer than -6. 7 or 8's woulf be good. Van's
> and A/C
> Spruce only stock them up to 6's. Anybody know where I can find them?
>
> Dennis Thomas
> fuselage
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder bottom fairing |
Starting to play with the tips. So far it looks like I (we) will have to do some
reworking on them to get them to fit and look good.
Looking at the bottom fairing for the rudder and it appears that the scribe line
is off by nearly 1/2". If I cut at the scribe line, the trailing edge of the
fairing will be 1/2" behind the trailing edge of the rudder. (Rudder to far
forward)
For those of you that mounted your rudder bottom, did yours line up correctly?
Did you cut at the scribe line?
Matthew
RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Peter, You'll soon discover that your job as the builder is to make
things fit. Don't be shy about bending, prying, and using friendly
coersion to align the parts. If you can see through the pair of holes,
they will fit. Obviously if you think something is seriously wrong, ask
Vans or post a photo, but most of the "it doesn't fit" type reports are
from empennage builders who either have something backwards (study the
blueprints) or haven't reached the all important aluminum zen yet. Line it
up, drill it, stick a rivet in it!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder bottom fairing |
I cut exactly on the scribe lines and the fit was perfect.
You aren't by chance trying to slip the fairing over the rudder bottom are
you? i.e. forgetting about the screw strips you have to make? I have
heard many others report the lines to be accurate too. Any chance you got
the wrong model tip?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Dennis,
Why not go ahead and drill it out for a 4 rivet. As I recall, the only
places where you need a 3 that long are places that are not readily
seen.
Even so, one rivet out of size once painted will not be apparent.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: OOPS Rivets ??
I need oops rivets longer than -6. 7 or 8's woulf be good. Van's and
A/C
Spruce only stock them up to 6's. Anybody know where I can find them?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JASON W SHEPHERD" <vmishep(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Waterborne poly acrylic paint |
Jim,
Sorry I've been off the net but I just got back from my yearly active duty.
At least I'm now in legal services and not in the infantry. I did get to
scrounge a great ride on a Blackhawk which was fun.
As to the paint, do you think it is a product defect? Have you tracked down
the source of the problem? If there is anything I can do to help let me
know.
Jason
----- Original Message -----
From: "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Waterborne poly acrylic paint
>
> I had read glowing reports of Aircraft Finishing Systems waterborne poly
> acrylic paint, so I decided to try it on my cowl. The base coat was a
> disaster, possibly mine, maybe not. Anyway I called the company to
> discuss the problem. I got no sympathy, only accusations that I had
> ordered the wrong primer. When I asked about returning the finish
> coat, more accusations. The company could not accept returned paint; I
> might have contaminated it. (The seal is still intact). They didn't
> know where I had stored the paint; the temperature may have been wrong.
> Finally I gave up and told them that. They then said to return the
> paint and they would see if they could give me any refund. Didn't sound
> promising; it wasn't worth the hassle of shipping it back.
>
> Caveat emptor!
>
> 90487
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 05/05/03 |
Didn't forget the attach strips. They are already riveted on to the rudder.
I'm going to put an email into Van's and see if by chance I got the wrong
rudder bottom.
(I re-read the message I posted.. and it may have been a bit unclear. The
rudder fairing is too short by 1/2". I'll find out from Van's. If anyone
still has there rudder fairing un-attached, couldn't measure it and let me
know how long it is.)
Matthew
> ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Rudder bottom fairing
>
>
>
> I cut exactly on the scribe lines and the fit was perfect.
> You aren't by chance trying to slip the fairing over the
> rudder bottom are you? i.e. forgetting about the screw
> strips you have to make? I have heard many others report the
> lines to be accurate too. Any chance you got the wrong model tip?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV Vs. ProSeal |
I agree. These are not that hard to do. Clean and simple is better. Remember
proseal is not light, and you need to balance the control surfaces with lead,
also not light. I see no reason to smear this stuff in there. Won't make it
fly better.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcel
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RTV Vs. ProSeal
We are working on a 9A and a 7A in our shop. I can not believe that you
guys are using proseal on the trailing edges. This is one messy product.
We set our selves up with a large back bucking plate and plywood to keep
piece good and level. We set a good straight 2" x 4" on top of surface and
set two bags of gun shot to hold everything nice and straight. We did our
back riveting with a small mushroom head on our rivetting tool. Just be
careful and steady and it came out great.
Marcel in El Paso
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV Vs. ProSeal |
Another point to consider is that the factory trailing edges allow water
to escape and some amount of air circulation to keep corrosion in check.
Plenty of builders have accomplished thier TE's without goop.
Gary N. - Three weeks from yeehah...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | Yaesu handheld nav/com |
My many thanks to all who offered suggestions when I asked for help a few weeks
ago when trying to identify the TX problem with my handheld.
I'm ashamed to admit that I don't remember who suggested that the battery pack,
(original 3 yr old NiCad), might be the problem.
This was right on the money! I used fresh alkalines in the back up power pack
and checked the TX function against a couple of handhelds and a panel mount whilst
down at SEE this weekend and got a nice nice clear signal.
I've been roaming the web, (Google), looking for a new power pack and found good
prices from the NiCad Lady and Sabah Oceanics. Any input on these sources or
suggestions for other vendors will be appreciated.
Thanks to all who responded. Fly safe.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Yaesu handheld nav/com |
Batteries America. Good source that can offer packs for almost anything, and give
a choice of NiMh, Nicad, Lithium, and various capacities. Good prices and
service, as well as advice.
www.batteriesamerica.com
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob W M Shipley
To: rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 8:46 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Yaesu handheld nav/com
My many thanks to all who offered suggestions when I asked for help a few weeks
ago when trying to identify the TX problem with my handheld.
I'm ashamed to admit that I don't remember who suggested that the battery pack,
(original 3 yr old NiCad), might be the problem.
This was right on the money! I used fresh alkalines in the back up power pack
and checked the TX function against a couple of handhelds and a panel mount
whilst down at SEE this weekend and got a nice nice clear signal.
I've been roaming the web, (Google), looking for a new power pack and found good
prices from the NiCad Lady and Sabah Oceanics. Any input on these sources
or suggestions for other vendors will be appreciated.
Thanks to all who responded. Fly safe.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/10/03 |
The last two days I have received numerious messages, however they are all
empty. 7 or more each day???
Thanks,
Terry Hobert
>From: RV9-List Digest Server <rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV9-List Digest List
>Subject: RV9-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/10/03
>Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 23:57:05 -0700
>
>*
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
>Today's complete RV9-List Digest can be also be found in either
>of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
>Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
>version of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
>text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2003-05-10.html
>
>Text Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2003-05-10.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV9-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 05/10/03: 0
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | Was it something I said .......... |
I got this to a couple of messages today -
"We're sorry, but the user account you are trying to reach has exceeded its
size limit. As a result, we were unable to deliver this message to the
intended recipient. Please try sending this message again at a later time"
What happened?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
I managed this same stunt. Making left and right hand versions of things seems
to be nearly impossible when the moon's in the wrong phase.
Short answer try a hobby shop or if you know anyone with a tig welder SS welding
rod works fine. Ask me how I know ;-)
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray
I remember something about this in the 18years of Rvator I think. The
tip was rather than bending it back, twist the wire leading to the
eroneous bend through 180 degrees to put the bend in the correct direction.
Doug Gray
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen"
> I bent the wire of the fuel float in the wrong direction. If I bend it back
> I fear that I will have weakened the wire and a potentially break. The NAPA
> store says I can only buy the wire with the sender. Anybody know where I can
> source just the fuel float wire by its self ?
> Thanks Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | wiring for a Yaesu handheld. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Okay you electronic gurus ... I need your help.
I have a Yaseau handheld for backup with the Icom A200 installed in my 8A. I
would like to be able to somehow get the Yaseau in line though my headset to
use in air to air communication. There are no y adaptors for this that I can
find.
I thought of trying to build up something myself but before going to the
trouble I am not sure it would even work ??? Thoughts?
Hi Len,
I'm no guru but I am trying the same exercise. The adaptor you're looking for
came with my VXA-100. I've been in touch with Yaesu to determine how to connect
the stick ptt and I received the following from them today.
Hello Rob,
The VXA-100's ptt would have to be connected through the CT-60 cable. The External
ptt should be between the headset and the CT-60 cable. If you need any
more help feel free to contact us again.
Thank You,
Land Mobile Technical Support
Vertex Standard
I've replied to confirm that using this to get access to the ring on the mike plug
will permit TX if it's grounded and I'll copy you off list with what I come
up with.
In the meanwhile if you find out anything please copy it to me.
Fly safe.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
I'm so very glad to learn I'm not alone in this little problem. I will
confess being not bright enough to figure out a simple solution and paid the
15 or so dollars to get a replacement wire from Van's. You know, $3 part,$4
handling and $8 shipping.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
Do ont archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe noise in the radio |
This week I fired up my Nova X-PAK strobe along with an SL40 Comm radio.
There was a strong sound of the strobe power supply recharging its
capacitors coming through the radio. One problem was the strobe power
supply was not properly grounded. The power supply base is well anodized
and I had to sandpaper off the anodize around the ground points. Anodize
forms an excellent electrical resistance.
Also, I had connected the strobe cable shield to the "black" wire coming
out of the strobe connector, but it turns out that this wire is some 100
ohms off ground. Grounding the shield to the aircraft frame eliminated
all but the faintest sound in the headsets.
Leland in Pleasanton
Finishing a second set of canopy side skirts (somebody else on this list
suggested getting a near-perfect fit on the canopy frame, and I second
that suggestion before fabricating the skirts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a Ride in a RV-9A |
Well, James, you're a long way from Yuma but I'd offer a ride as soon as I
fly off the last of the 25 hours-now at 17. I'll tell you what I've learned
so far though. I chose seat cushions that put my eye level well above the
cowl and glare shield. With my headphones on I have about 2 fingers between
the headband and the canopy. The 9A sits on the ground in flying attitude so
I had some friends hold the tail down so the nose wheel was up and figured
that was landing attitude. I did not use full power on takeoff but have
since found the rudder does a good job of yaw control on the ground so
steering is not as big a problem as I anticipated. Full power climbs are
very nose high and so far it looks like best rate is fairly flat between 80
and 100 mph so I am using 100. Stalls are very docile with some buffeting
before the break. Pitch the nose down a bit and you're flying again. I use
full flaps landing and set the idle at 600 so it will slow down when you
pull
power. A lancair guy suggested that I hold the stick about in the middle to
minimize overcontrolling on landing. Rollout is fine but I hold the nose
wheel off as long as possible and taxi requires only require minimal braking
as the rudder retains control at fairly low airspeed.
If you're current I'll bet flying the 9 will be a piece of cake. That said,
I still try to treat the nose gear as gently as possible.
Albert Gardner
N872RV 17hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net>
> I am very close to finishing my RV-9A and would like to feel the
> controls from the right seat. Van told me that if I came to Oregon, I
> could get a ride but that is too far. Is there anyone within 200 miles
> or so from Lexington, KY who would give me a ride?
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | JB Weld & Windshield urethane adhesives. |
"Greg wrote Subject: RE: Re: JB Weld
Try some 3M or other brand of Urethane windshield sealer. Stays flexible
forever and adhesion is superb. The only drawback is that it's a real bear
to get off if you need to remove it. Greg T"
I own an autoglass company and would strongly suggest that if you wish to try this
approach you enquire of your source about an appropriate primer. Urethane
is highly variable in its ability to stick to different plastics.
The primers are expensive but you may be able to scrounge a sample or a little
in a opened bottle. PVC primer is readily available and will probably provide
your only plastics option. These primers are highly volatile so use it soon
after opening the bottle and don't leave the cap off for more than a few seconds.
I wouldn't be picky about the brand and expect to pay $12 - #20 for an 11oz
cartridge. This will not keep for more than maybe a week and if you wish makes
a fine adhesive (with the metal primer of course) for the traing edges of
your control surfaces. Get a couple of extra nozzles if you can and seeif they
are willing to throw in a 'bone'. These teflon sticks are great for all sorts
of chores around paint and glass and if used to trowel the urethane can be
left to dry and the surplus just peels off.
Get it right and you'll have a 500+psi adhesive!
Good luck and if you want any more info email me direct and I'll give the phone
number.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
Matt Burch This is nonsense! If Van's can't find a decent supplier for those
> motors, they ought to pull the option -- or at least warn people about
> the problem.
For what it's worth, I had to pull and replace my flap motor after 70
hours due to a broken winding. They're pricey too."
I'm building a 9. Vans don't offer a manual option for flaps as far as I know.
Has anyone found a way to go manual?
I'm beginning to think this might be a better choice.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | FW: Wheels and tubes |
Had a SNAFU with the list. Sorry if you have seen this query before, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Sampson [mailto:SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu]
Subject: Wheels and tubes
Excuse my ignorance. I had a few spare minutes and thought I would assemble
a wheel and tire today. On the tube there is in addition to the dust cap a
brass nut, a chrome washer and a chrome nut. The valve stem is threaded in
two places. Right down by the tube and for quite a length where the dust cap
screws on. I am perplexed as to the role of the two chrome parts. Presumably
the brass nut is to stabilise the stem in the hole through the split in the
wheel?
Where the stem comes out of the wheel I had thought the chrome washer might
screw down against the rubber plug but the thread does not cover that
portion of the stem. Can anyone shed some light for me.
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
N Yorks., UK
Starting the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
I researched price and availability of low voltage linear actuators (which is
what the flap motor is) and found that Van's is the best product for the
money, but we all know what happens sometimes when we buy the cheapest part or
take the lowest bidder.
Kevin Shannon
>
> Matt Burch Subject: Re: Flap advice
>
> "On Tue, 20 May 2003, Jon Baker wrote:
>
> >This is nonsense! If Van's can't find a decent supplier for those
> >motors, they ought to pull the option -- or at least warn people about
> >the problem.
>
> For what it's worth, I had to pull and replace my flap motor after 70
> hours due to a broken winding. They're pricey too."
>
> I'm building a 9. Vans don't offer a manual option for flaps as far as I
> know. Has anyone found a way to go manual?
> I'm beginning to think this might be a better choice.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
I wanted manual flaps from the beginning for my -9A. I asked a couple of
people at Van's about it, and they said, "Its your airplane, you can do what
you want." However, they told me that they doubted I would be able to
operated them. The manual flaps on the -6's are very hard to operate, due
to the awquard location, and the fact your elbow hits the seatbacks. And
the larger flaps on the -9's require more force to deploy. So I gave in and
stayed with the electric flaps.
I am sure a satisfactory soulution for manual flaps could be devised for
the -9, but Vans hasn't figured one out.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap motors
>
> Matt Burch Subject: Re: Flap advice
>
> "On Tue, 20 May 2003, Jon Baker wrote:
>
> > This is nonsense! If Van's can't find a decent supplier for those
> > motors, they ought to pull the option -- or at least warn people about
> > the problem.
>
> For what it's worth, I had to pull and replace my flap motor after 70
> hours due to a broken winding. They're pricey too."
>
> I'm building a 9. Vans don't offer a manual option for flaps as far as I
know. Has anyone found a way to go manual?
> I'm beginning to think this might be a better choice.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
I am trying to decide what type of com antenna to use.
For VOR I will use Bob Archer's in-the-wingtip antenna. I like the idea
of having an internal antenna - no drag, no chance of damage, etc. He
also sells one that is modified for use as a com antenna, but since it
is in the wingtip it cannot be very much vertical as a com antenna
should be.
Has anyone used one of these or know someone that has? If so how well
does it work? If anyone has used this type and compared its performance
to a normal vertical antenna what were the results? Was it just
adequate or was it effectively comparable? What typical distance do you
get with either type?
Thanks,
Dick Tasker 90573
right wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
| Subject: | Rv9 Vertical stab offset. |
I am intending to fly my 9 with an O 290 initially. This is a low time engine
which I got a very good deal. In the long run I intend to assemble a firewall
forward Mazda 13b installation. Since the prop will then turn in the opposite
direction I am unsure whether to mount the tail with the normal inbuilt offset
and then rework this late. This is possible??? Or mount it straight down
the axis of the plane and use tabs to adjust.
I know that Bernie Kerr is building a 9 with a 13b. Are you out there Bernie.
I looked for your progress on Tracy's site and found nothing.
This isn't intended to be a debate on the merits of different engines just a howto
on the v stab alignment. ;-)
Thanks guys
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Rv9 Vertical stab offset. |
Hi Rob;
I wondered about this as well. Since the previous models didn't use any
off-set in the VS, I decided to mount it neutral as well. Since I had
decided right from the start that I was using a rotary, I knew that I would
likely use a left hand prop so would need to reverse the VS offset, but at
the time I didn't know which reduction unit I would use. I ended up with
Real World Solutions RD-1A which is left hand drive. I designed and built my
own engine mount, which I decided to also build with no offset. Instead I
used shims between the mount and firewall to offset prop flange. This will
be relatively easy to add or remove shims after flight testing. I also plan
to add rudder trim using differential springs much like the aileron trim. I
fully expect satisfaction from my engine/psru combination, but if not I can
switch to a right hand prop without reworking the tail.
Reversing the off-set on the VS is very simple, however the empennage
fairing must also be redone. I don't mind working with glass so I really
didn't mind, but thought I'd remind you.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B RV-9Endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe in,
Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 9:42 PM
> To: RV9-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV9-List: Rv9 Vertical stab offset.
>
>
> I am intending to fly my 9 with an O 290 initially. This is a
> low time engine which I got a very good deal. In the long run I
> intend to assemble a firewall forward Mazda 13b installation.
> Since the prop will then turn in the opposite direction I am
> unsure whether to mount the tail with the normal inbuilt offset
> and then rework this late. This is possible??? Or mount it
> straight down the axis of the plane and use tabs to adjust.
> I know that Bernie Kerr is building a 9 with a 13b. Are you out
> there Bernie. I looked for your progress on Tracy's site and
> found nothing.
> This isn't intended to be a debate on the merits of different
> engines just a howto on the v stab alignment. ;-)
> Thanks guys
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Rv9 Vertical stab offset. |
Rob,
Could you e-mail me privately? (For some reason the e-mails I sent you
were rejected.) I have some questions regarding your engine plans.
Thanks,
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob W M
Shipley
Subject: RV9-List: Rv9 Vertical stab offset.
I am intending to fly my 9 with an O 290 initially. This is a low time
engine which I got a very good deal. In the long run I intend to
assemble a firewall forward Mazda 13b installation. Since the prop will
then turn in the opposite direction I am unsure whether to mount the
tail with the normal inbuilt offset and then rework this late. This is
possible??? Or mount it straight down the axis of the plane and use
tabs to adjust.
I know that Bernie Kerr is building a 9 with a 13b. Are you out there
Bernie. I looked for your progress on Tracy's site and found nothing.
This isn't intended to be a debate on the merits of different engines
just a howto on the v stab alignment. ;-)
Thanks guys
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv9 Vertical stab offset. |
Todd and Rob
I am also building an RV-9A with the 13B engine and like Bernie Kerr, I am
using the Conversion Concepts engine mount and RWS RD-1A. The mount has a
1.5 degree left offset built into it. I have also considered remaking the
F-981 vertical stabilizer attach bracket to give the approximately 1/4 inch
offset to the right instead of to the left. Bernie may be flying his
before I have to make that decision. I also plan to use the Sam James cowl.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Canoe/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Rv9 Vertical stab offset.
>
> Hi Rob;
> I wondered about this as well. Since the previous models didn't
use any
> off-set in the VS, I decided to mount it neutral as well. Since I had
> decided right from the start that I was using a rotary, I knew that I
would
> likely use a left hand prop so would need to reverse the VS offset, but at
> the time I didn't know which reduction unit I would use. I ended up with
> Real World Solutions RD-1A which is left hand drive. I designed and built
my
> own engine mount, which I decided to also build with no offset. Instead I
> used shims between the mount and firewall to offset prop flange. This will
> be relatively easy to add or remove shims after flight testing. I also
plan
> to add rudder trim using differential springs much like the aileron trim.
I
> fully expect satisfaction from my engine/psru combination, but if not I
can
> switch to a right hand prop without reworking the tail.
> Reversing the off-set on the VS is very simple, however the
empennage
> fairing must also be redone. I don't mind working with glass so I really
> didn't mind, but thought I'd remind you.
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B RV-9Endurance
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe in,
> Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 9:42 PM
> > To: RV9-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV9-List: Rv9 Vertical stab offset.
> >
> >
> >
> > I am intending to fly my 9 with an O 290 initially. This is a
> > low time engine which I got a very good deal. In the long run I
> > intend to assemble a firewall forward Mazda 13b installation.
> > Since the prop will then turn in the opposite direction I am
> > unsure whether to mount the tail with the normal inbuilt offset
> > and then rework this late. This is possible??? Or mount it
> > straight down the axis of the plane and use tabs to adjust.
> > I know that Bernie Kerr is building a 9 with a 13b. Are you out
> > there Bernie. I looked for your progress on Tracy's site and
> > found nothing.
> > This isn't intended to be a debate on the merits of different
> > engines just a howto on the v stab alignment. ;-)
> > Thanks guys
> > Rob
> > Rob W M Shipley
> > RV9A N919RV Fuselage - now a canoe!!!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichaelV(at)JohnDeere.com> |
Just found out that UPS has stopped building the GX65 (GPS/COM) and they are
getting hard to find. We thought this was newer GPS/COM, and had planned
our radio stack around it. What other GPS/COMs would be comparable.
90259
Michael V. Nightingale
DEERE & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST.
Moline, IL. 61265
pager 563-327-7891
NightingaleMichaelV(at)johndeere.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
Howdy all -
OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
I have run into an issue.
While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
perfectly into the plexi in one particular
position, with only a small gap near the front
bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
split the canopy in two.
OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
top of the frame.
The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
of the plexi EXACTLY.
I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
fit :-)
Here are a few pictures if it helps:
http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
Thanks,
- Tim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
I'm just offering up the slider aft canopy skirts for initial trimming. What's
the relationship between the C-653 cover strip, C-792 doghouse, and the top edges
of the aft canopy skirts? In other words, what goes over,under, or is rivetted
to what...can't tell from the plans, and the instructions just run out at
this point. And whats that bit of fishing line on the C679 canopy slider seal
all about?
Roy, G-RUVY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Alexander <don_shirley(at)propjock.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator mounting problem |
This afternoon I began mounting the elevators to the HS so I could drill the elevator
horns where they bolt to the center bearing on the HS spar. The right
elevator went on fine but when I went to install the rod end bearings into the
left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted a bit like it wanted to cross
thread. On closer examination I noticed that the K1000-6 platenut isn't
quite centered perfectly on the holes in the spar ant the E-910 Hinge reinforcement
plate. It's real close to being centered but not quite - apparently just
barely enough to keep the rod end bearing from getting started. I'm looking
for a simple solution and I'm not finding one. Has anyone encountered and solved
this problem?
Don 90702
Finishing the empenage (and itching to start the wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator mounting problem |
Don Alexander wrote:
...
> bearings into the left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted
>a bit like it wanted to cross thread. On closer examination I noticed
>that the K1000-6 platenut isn't quite centered perfectly on the holes
>in the spar ant the E-910 Hinge reinforcement plate. It's real close
...
Usually just [very carefully] enlarging the hole to the
next practical size will fix this. Just avoid drilling
on the nutplate.
- Tim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator mounting problem |
Don
I have encountered this problem several times in the kit. Whether using
appropriate size clecoes or a bolt with stacked washers to locate the
nutplate for drilling for the mounting rivets, it still seems to happen even
when using a cleco in the first hole while drilling the second hole. If you
have a Number Drill Set, select a bit just slightly larger than the existing
hole to open it slightly. Be careful to avoid drilling into the nutplate
itself. The nutplates sometimes seem to shift slightly when squeezing or
driving the attaching rivets. Hope this helps.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Alexander" <don_shirley(at)propjock.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator mounting problem
>
> This afternoon I began mounting the elevators to the HS so I could drill
the elevator horns where they bolt to the center bearing on the HS spar.
The right elevator went on fine but when I went to install the rod end
bearings into the left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted a bit
like it wanted to cross thread. On closer examination I noticed that the
K1000-6 platenut isn't quite centered perfectly on the holes in the spar ant
the E-910 Hinge reinforcement plate. It's real close to being centered but
not quite - apparently just barely enough to keep the rod end bearing from
getting started. I'm looking for a simple solution and I'm not finding one.
Has anyone encountered and solved this problem?
>
> Don 90702
>
> Finishing the empenage (and itching to start the wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
Just shim the spots that dont lay down tight to the frame with plastic
washers
Kevin
> Howdy all -
>
> OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
> Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
> I have run into an issue.
>
> While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
> perfectly into the plexi in one particular
> position, with only a small gap near the front
> bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
> split the canopy in two.
>
> OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
> the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
> front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
> bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
> close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
> top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
> where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
> would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
> top of the frame.
>
> The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
> In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
> the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
> of the plexi EXACTLY.
>
> I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
> flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
> happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
> for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
> bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
>
> Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
> There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
> but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
> I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
> Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
> fit :-)
>
> Here are a few pictures if it helps:
> http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Roy,
The way I did it is to put the dog house on the bottom. The side skirts
next and then the top strip. Don't know if this is the right way but
that set it up so that what was forward was on top.
The string is to pull the second block along the rail. Its job is to
fill the doghouse so not much air comes in around it. I did not install
it. The string runs from the block that the canopy slides on to the
filler block. Without the string, the second block would slide back when
the canopy was opened but never come forward again without it.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roy Taylor
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy
I'm just offering up the slider aft canopy skirts for initial trimming.
What's the relationship between the C-653 cover strip, C-792 doghouse,
and the top edges of the aft canopy skirts? In other words, what goes
over,under, or is rivetted to what...can't tell from the plans, and the
instructions just run out at this point. And whats that bit of fishing
line on the C679 canopy slider seal all about?
Roy, G-RUVY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
| Subject: | Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
Tim,
You may need to put a heater under the canopy for a bit with the frame
supported so the canopy can deform and shape to the frame. It will help
if it is warm. That is the way they blow the canopy in the first place.
Some clips while heating to help pull it down will not hurt. It is
surprising how flexible the canopy can become when warm.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Subject: RV9-List: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue
Howdy all -
OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
I have run into an issue.
While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
perfectly into the plexi in one particular
position, with only a small gap near the front
bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
split the canopy in two.
OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
top of the frame.
The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
of the plexi EXACTLY.
I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
fit :-)
Here are a few pictures if it helps:
http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
Thanks,
- Tim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator mounting problem |
Get out your trusty tap - I run a tap through a lot of the plate nuts for
problems like that one or the many plate nuts that seem to be a little
distorted. It will thread the spar a little if needed.
John Oliveira
90054, working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Alexander" <don_shirley(at)propjock.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator mounting problem
>
> This afternoon I began mounting the elevators to the HS so I could drill
the elevator horns where they bolt to the center bearing on the HS spar.
The right elevator went on fine but when I went to install the rod end
bearings into the left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted a bit
like it wanted to cross thread. On closer examination I noticed that the
K1000-6 platenut isn't quite centered perfectly on the holes in the spar ant
the E-910 Hinge reinforcement plate. It's real close to being centered but
not quite - apparently just barely enough to keep the rod end bearing from
getting started. I'm looking for a simple solution and I'm not finding one.
Has anyone encountered and solved this problem?
>
> Don 90702
>
> Finishing the empenage (and itching to start the wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
Larry, thanks for that, I'll try it your way and go for the best fit of rear skirts
to the turtle deck.
Tim, my canopy fitted really well for most of the top centre tube, but like yours
it was gappy every where else, but with a lot of heaving and pulling it's OK
now. I don't know if it's my imagination, but it seems to have relaxed into
a better, less stressed fit after about a month of working on it. I seem to have
taken it off and clecoed it on again hundreds of times. Now I've nearly finished
and it all fits rather well, I think I may have worried about it a bit too
much.!
Roy. G-RUVY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
Roy Taylor wrote:
>
> Larry, thanks for that, I'll try it your way and go for the best fit of
>rear skirts to the turtle deck.
> Tim, my canopy fitted really well for most of the top centre tube, but
> like yours it was gappy every where else, but with a lot of heaving and
> pulling it's OK now. I don't know if it's my imagination, but it seems
>to have relaxed into a better, less stressed fit after about a month of
>working on it. I seem to have taken it off and clecoed it on again hundreds
> of times. Now I've nearly finished and it all fits rather well, I think
> I may have worried about it a bit too much.!
> Roy. G-RUVY.
>
Well, I tried sticking my little electric heater under it
today but it has a thermostat and refused to turn on...
so I put it out in the sun for about 3 hours. It only
got to about 100 deg. here in Phoenix today, but it was
enough to "relax" the plexi a bit.
So I put a whole bunch of spring clamps on to hold it
together and started drilling. Seems to have gone OK -
no cracks or anything.
Thanks,
- Tim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Tim
Put it back out there after you get it all tied down and let is stress
relieve a bit. Just like steel, a little heat takes away a lot of
internal stresses.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy
Roy Taylor wrote:
>
> Larry, thanks for that, I'll try it your way and go for the best fit
of
>rear skirts to the turtle deck.
> Tim, my canopy fitted really well for most of the top centre tube, but
> like yours it was gappy every where else, but with a lot of heaving
and
> pulling it's OK now. I don't know if it's my imagination, but it seems
>to have relaxed into a better, less stressed fit after about a month of
>working on it. I seem to have taken it off and clecoed it on again
hundreds
> of times. Now I've nearly finished and it all fits rather well, I
think
> I may have worried about it a bit too much.!
> Roy. G-RUVY.
>
Well, I tried sticking my little electric heater under it
today but it has a thermostat and refused to turn on...
so I put it out in the sun for about 3 hours. It only
got to about 100 deg. here in Phoenix today, but it was
enough to "relax" the plexi a bit.
So I put a whole bunch of spring clamps on to hold it
together and started drilling. Seems to have gone OK -
no cracks or anything.
Thanks,
- Tim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Tipper Canopy - HELP! |
Cutting the canopy (tipper) is going well. (Thanks for the encouragement
Newstead!)
QUESTION: How close to the role bar does it need to be before I split it? I
am getting all sorts of inputs from 'touching' to 2". Right now I have a
good fit and about above the bar.
Thanks, Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Rounds <wrounds(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tipper Canopy - HELP! |
Steve
once you cut the canopy it will pull down to the roll bar real easy. No
need to over do trying to fit it tight before splitting. It won't work.
You'll be surprised how well it fits after you take the plunge and split it.
Bill Rounds
N159RV
Got my airworthiness cert. yesterday.
Steve Sampson wrote:
>
>Cutting the canopy (tipper) is going well. (Thanks for the encouragement
>Newstead!)
>
>QUESTION: How close to the role bar does it need to be before I split it? I
>am getting all sorts of inputs from 'touching' to 2". Right now I have a
>good fit and about above the bar.
>
>Thanks, Steve
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Tipper Canopy - HELP! & Com antenna |
Larry / Bill - thanks for the various inputs. Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lighting Questions |
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Hello All,
I don't know how many of you have seen it, but Duckworks (and Vans) are
now selling HID lighting for taxi/landing lights. I am debating if
this is a worthwhile purchase. They want about $450 per light or $380
for an upgrade kit (per light) to go to HID from the standard Halogen.
The HID lights are round rather than rectangular. They also offer the
Halogen lights in round. What do you guys think. I have seen the HID
lights on cars and they are very bright (for only 35 watts), but don't
know if it would be worth it for airplane activity. I want to decide
soon before I make the cut out in the leading edge.
Thanks in advance!
-Ted Strand-
N371N (Reserved)
Building Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Sampson [mailto:SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu]
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tipper Canopy - HELP! & Com antenna
Larry / Bill - thanks for the various inputs. Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tipper Canopy - HELP! |
> Cutting the canopy (tipper) is going well. (Thanks for the encouragement
> Newstead!)
>
> QUESTION: How close to the role bar does it need to be before I split it?
I
> am getting all sorts of inputs from 'touching' to 2". Right now I have a
> good fit and about above the bar.
I think mine was about an inch above before the cut. After cutting it
naturally laid down perfectly.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | order of construction |
A question of those folks further along. I have just received my finishing
kit and finishing up the prep on the forward cabin parts. By the sequence
called out in the instructions I should next start working on the canopy. I would
like to finish as much wiring and plumbing as possible before closing up the
top of the fuselage. Would it be a mistake to install the engine mount,
engine and landing gear before the canopy?
What have others done?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Len Leggette ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Len Leggette
Subject: Newly Painted RV-8A
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Lenleg@aol.com.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Wayne Petrus ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Wayne Petrus
Subject: RV8A pics
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Dwpetrus@aol.com.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
| Subject: | order of construction |
Dennis,
Do it in any order you like. I would hold off on the landing gear. Once
it is on, the plane is a bit tall to work on easily. DON'T close up the
front fuselage skin until you are sure that you are done behind the
panel unless you are doing a tipper. The gear should wait until you are
through inside the plane. Canopy and all. Keep it low.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: order of construction
A question of those folks further along. I have just received my
finishing
kit and finishing up the prep on the forward cabin parts. By the
sequence
called out in the instructions I should next start working on the
canopy. I would
like to finish as much wiring and plumbing as possible before closing up
the
top of the fuselage. Would it be a mistake to install the engine mount,
engine and landing gear before the canopy?
What have others done?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dave Pohl ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dave Pohl
Subject: Ted Gauthier's RV6
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/drpohl@comcast.net.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Cash Copeland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Cash Copeland
Subject: First Flight RV6 N46FC
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/JusCash@aol.com.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Tom Garner ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Tom Garner
Subject: Oil cooler door
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jtgarner@shentel.net.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bill Gunn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bill Gunn
Subject: Gear Fairings Source
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/WGUNN@dot.state.tx.us.06.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | order of construction |
Dennis - I wondered about this also. I am doing this in the order the book
suggested. Once you put the landing gear on its going to be much further off
the ground making getting at the wiring difficult. Also right now I am
working on the canopy and I am glad its no higher. I still have a chair each
side to jump up on to see how the glass is positioned wrt the role bar. The
engine frame ....no problem.
Regards, Steve
#90360
Canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: order of construction
A question of those folks further along. I have just received my finishing
kit and finishing up the prep on the forward cabin parts. By the sequence
called out in the instructions I should next start working on the canopy. I
would
like to finish as much wiring and plumbing as possible before closing up the
top of the fuselage. Would it be a mistake to install the engine mount,
engine and landing gear before the canopy?
What have others done?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: order of construction |
There is another RV-9A being built here in Yuma and he has left his side
skins off well past the point where I had riveted mine on. Made wiring very
easy as well as other interior work. I tipped my fuse upside down and did
most of the wheel pant and gear leg fairing work while it was still at home.
After suffering the aggravation of working at the airport- especially with
fiberglass - I wish I had done all of it at home.
Albert Gardner
N872RV 21 hrs.
BTW: the Navaid wing leveler works great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | order of construction |
Albert - which GPS is driving your Navaid? Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: Re: RV9-List: order of construction
There is another RV-9A being built here in Yuma and he has left his side
skins off well past the point where I had riveted mine on. Made wiring very
easy as well as other interior work. I tipped my fuse upside down and did
most of the wheel pant and gear leg fairing work while it was still at home.
After suffering the aggravation of working at the airport- especially with
fiberglass - I wish I had done all of it at home.
Albert Gardner
N872RV 21 hrs.
BTW: the Navaid wing leveler works great!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: order of construction |
I'm using a handheld - an ipaq running ControlVision's AnywhereMap.
This other builder is using a KMD150 in the panel. He's also using a Navaid
and we both installed the switch so you can drive the Navaid in course
tracking mode with either the GPS output or the VOR steering signals from
the CDI. Seems to work very well - although I have only flown in fairly
smooth air so far.
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: order of construction
>
> Albert - which GPS is driving your Navaid? Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
> Sent: 02 June 2003 22:06
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: order of construction
>
>
> There is another RV-9A being built here in Yuma and he has left his side
> skins off well past the point where I had riveted mine on. Made wiring
very
> easy as well as other interior work. I tipped my fuse upside down and did
> most of the wheel pant and gear leg fairing work while it was still at
home.
> After suffering the aggravation of working at the airport- especially with
> fiberglass - I wish I had done all of it at home.
> Albert Gardner
> N872RV 21 hrs.
> BTW: the Navaid wing leveler works great!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaids Autopilot |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
06/03/2003 03:07:27 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/03/2003 03:07:27 PM
Steve,
I have my Navaids connected to either my nav radio or my Garmin 3 Pilot.
Since I found out how much fun it is to connect the 12 volt lead to the 5
volt connector in the servo and burn out the servo board, I have not had
time to fly it since getting it back and installed finally. I know that
the wing leveler functions work since I can sit in the hanger and move the
ailerons.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Voice Supervisor
ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
(281) 227-5550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | This cracks me up! |
FYI... for those that are just building your tail surfaces, learn from my troubles
how to do it right!
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/cracks/cracks.htm
- Andy Karmy (85hrs TT)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: This cracks me up! |
Andy......thanks for sharing your experiences with the skin cracking. What deburring
techniques did you use on those parts? Just curious. I remember a while
back on the RV list that some of the builders advocated skipping the deburring
of rivet holes altogether.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Karmy
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: RV9-List: This cracks me up!
FYI... for those that are just building your tail surfaces, learn from my troubles
how to do it right!
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/cracks/cracks.htm
- Andy Karmy (85hrs TT)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: This cracks me up! |
I used the Avery hex shank debur tool that fit in a B&D cordless screwdriver. Now
that I am building another rudder I suspect that I did a number of things wrong
on the first one.
1) over debured the holes (.016 is way way thin)
2) over dimpled the holes dosen't take much of a hit to dimple .016
3) over drove the rivets...
results I guess should have been predictable based upon 1-3 ...
I can say that the new one looks very nice. I just finished back riveting the proseal
encrusted stiffeners. I shot them wet just like building the tanks. 1 turn
to lightly debur, light dimple on the c-frame, Light rivet gun pressure, nice
perfectly flat results.
All of this education makes me wonder about the guys that simply hammer the dimple
in to the prepunched hole and move on... It's a helpless feeling when the
cracks start comming out of the center of a rivet hole. In most cases there is
no "easy" fix once it starts.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 14:44:14 -0600
>
>Andy......thanks for sharing your experiences with the skin cracking. What deburring
techniques did you use on those parts? Just curious. I remember a while
back on the RV list that some of the builders advocated skipping the deburring
of rivet holes altogether.
>
>Gary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andy Karmy
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 11:52 AM
> Subject: RV9-List: This cracks me up!
>
>
> FYI... for those that are just building your tail surfaces, learn from my troubles
how to do it right!
>
> http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/cracks/cracks.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy (85hrs TT)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Moak <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: This cracks me up! |
Andy
Thanks for sharing. I'm worried about my early work,
but because you posted this I will be watching it very
carefully, and make sure I'm more carefull on the
rest.
Thanks
Ken
90608
Wings
--- Andy Karmy wrote:
>
>
> FYI... for those that are just building your tail
> surfaces, learn from my troubles how to do it right!
>
> http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/cracks/cracks.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy (85hrs TT)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Hole in wing rib for wire conduit |
Hi fellow RV builders.
I made a little jig so that I could make some holes in the ribs for
the wire conduit. I selected a section of the rib that had plenty of
metal and would be out of the way. After drilling my 6th hole I had
thought of, What am I doing! drilling holes in the structure of the
plane. I have not done a stress analysis of the rib(s).
So what do you think? The hole is 7/8ths of an inch between the 1st
and 2nd lighting hole. I posted a couple of photos at
http://www.ahyup.com/hole So do I worry to much? Or have I made a way to
run wires and keep them out of the way.
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: This cracks me up! |
Gary
I would not skip the deburring of holes--This is asking for stress cracks!
However, Rather than using a deburring tool , I would recommend a scotch
brite disk ( blue) on a die grinder.
On .016 skins, use a light hand.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Alexander <don_shirley(at)propjock.com> |
| Subject: | Rib hole for wiring |
Warren,
Good question - Would this hole be OK in my plane? I'm not a structural engineer
either but I'd fly with it without worry IF I someone at Van's confirmed it
was ok. The directions clearly expect you to provide a hole for wiring. I'm
not where I can review them but I think they refer to opening an existing tooling
hole. It *looks* like your location is ok to me but I'd verify it with someone
with more experience and understanding of the problem and that's what Van's
is there for. If they have concerns, whether they run the calculations or
not, I'd replace the ribs. My guess is, they won't have a problem with your
location - and be sure to let us know what you find.
Don
90702 Wings...almost ready to think about where to run those same wires
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9-List: This cracks me up |
Andy Karmy and other RV-9 Builders
Like many others I started deburring with the Avery 3-flute cutter and speed handle.
I then ordered the 3-flute cutter and also Avery's 6-flute chatterless
countersinks. When I used the 3-flute cutter in a B&D cordless screwdriver and
looked at the holes under a 10 power glass, I found that the gear resonance
from the screwdriver was leaving what looked like tiny gear teeth all around the
holes. From then on, I used only the 6-flute countersinks, mostly with a Craftsman
(B&D) 2 speed small cordless drill that uses 2 VersaPak batteries. It
only needs one battery at a time for slow speed and just a quick touch to each
hole is needed for a smooth result. I lengthened one of the 6-flutes with a
piece of 1/4 inch rod, a small length of 1/4 inch ID tube and 5 minute epoxy.
The 6-flutes also work well for countersinking the occasional flange for nutplate
rivets.
I hope that your replacement rudder holds up well and I agree that the guys who
are taking shortcuts now are just taking a shortcut to trouble later on.
Dean Van Winkle
90095 (Finish Kit)
N799DE (reserved)
13B NA Rotary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 0-235 Engine for sale on eBay, FYI. |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2418993986&category26428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | This cracks me up! |
Andy,
I was talking to a RV-7 builder about your cracks. He is working on his
elevators. It appears that the directions for the folded trailing edge is to
put a "bubble gum" size blob of either RTV or tank sealer on the rear of the
stiffners when you close. This bonds the left and right (or top and bottom)
skin stiffners where they nest next to each other to reduce the vibration
cracks.
Ralph
Working on elevators - wings in the wings
> Subject: RV9-List: This cracks me up!
>
>
> FYI... for those that are just building your tail surfaces, learn
> from my troubles how to do it right!
>
> http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/cracks/cracks.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy (85hrs TT)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | This cracks me up! |
Yep, sounds like good advise for the double flush surfaces also! I plan to do just
exactly this, along with proseal the entire stiffeners to the surfaces and
rivet them wet. When I finish maby I can use the rudder as a aux fuel tank! ;)
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>
>Andy,
> I was talking to a RV-7 builder about your cracks. He is working on his
>elevators. It appears that the directions for the folded trailing edge is to
>put a "bubble gum" size blob of either RTV or tank sealer on the rear of the
>stiffners when you close. This bonds the left and right (or top and bottom)
>skin stiffners where they nest next to each other to reduce the vibration
>cracks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in Wing rib for wire conduit |
>and be sure to let us know what you find.<
Gus at Vans says the holes are fine.
Photos at http://www.ahyup.com
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | This cracks me up! |
>When I finish maby I can use the rudder as a aux fuel tank! ;)
- Andy
Actually, that's a good point. You guys that insist on gluing everything
together need to both watch the weight you are adding to your control
surfaces and avoid creating potential water traps. You may need to
rebalance your control surfaces, probably adding some more lead, and you
may need to drill some drain holes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sport Aviation Flying Qualities Report |
Hello,
Does anyone have a copy of the RV-9 flying qualities report that was in the
June 99 Sport Aviation? I've only been a EAA'er for a year.
I could only find a reference to it, not the article on the web.
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edcarris(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
I talked to a Van's rep. at Sun & Fun and he said there was only three
builders of the 9. You and me and we're looking for the third tailwheeler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Sport Aviation Flying Qualities Report |
Hello Pete,
I've got a copy of the June 1999 Sport Aviation with the article in it. I'll scan
it and print a copy for you when you come up Saturday evening - See you then!
Todd
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Howell
Subject: RV9-List: Sport Aviation Flying Qualities Report
Hello,
Does anyone have a copy of the RV-9 flying qualities report that was in the
June 99 Sport Aviation? I've only been a EAA'er for a year.
I could only find a reference to it, not the article on the web.
Thanks,
Pete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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
It appears that I will be the 4th RV9 builders, if that is the case.
will be ordering the Fuse Kit at the end of the month.
John Kerr
Logan UT
----- Original Message -----
From: Edcarris(at)aol.com
Date: Thursday, June 12, 2003 5:43 pm
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9 (little wheel in the back)
>
> I talked to a Van's rep. at Sun & Fun and he said there was only
> three
> builders of the 9. You and me and we're looking for the third
> tailwheeler.
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Hi guys, I am the third (real airplane) rv9.I was wondering what stage you guys
are at.I am down to gear and electrical.If you are interested there are pics
of my project on the yahoo group E-subie forum in photo sect.as I am installing
a subaru eng.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Actually I've got you all beat. I built my own engine mount (for a rotary
engine) that has mount options for main gear and nose gear and have main
gear mounts in the fuselage and a tail wheel mount. I did this almost a year
before Van's came out with the tailwheel option. I'm secure enough in my
masculinity to put the little wheel any damn place I want it.
My reasons for doing this is that I believe the trike configuration to
be
better for short rough strips, but the taildragger is necessary for ski
operations due to a lack of differential braking.
First flights will be as a trike (in about a month). I'll try it as a TD
possibly this winter.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe
in, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Todd,I have been watching your project with intrest ever since I started mine a
year and a half ago .If you beat me in the air please come visit in montana.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Subject: RE: RV9-List: RV-9 (little wheel in the back)
Todd,
How about enlightening us re your opinion that the trike is better for
short/rough strips. I was disappointed to have purchased my kit before the
tail dragger and didn't want to regress to have to convert, but I will be
operating from a short/rough strip.
Thanks,
Don Piermattei
N 192 DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
conventional thought is that conventional gear is preferred for short
rough landing strips ala bush planes. What are your reasonings?
----- Original Message -----
From: Haywire <haywire(at)telus.net>
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2003 4:15 pm
Subject: RE: RV9-List: RV-9 (little wheel in the back)
>
> Actually I've got you all beat. I built my own engine
> mount (for a rotary
> engine) that has mount options for main gear and nose gear and
> have main
> gear mounts in the fuselage and a tail wheel mount. I did this
> almost a year
> before Van's came out with the tailwheel option. I'm secure enough
> in my
> masculinity to put the little wheel any damn place I want it.
> My reasons for doing this is that I believe the trike
> configuration to be
> better for short rough strips, but the taildragger is necessary
> for ski
> operations due to a lack of differential braking.
> First flights will be as a trike (in about a month). I'll
> try it as a TD
> possibly this winter.
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B rotary powered
> RV-9endurance (FWF)
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely
> believein, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
>
>
> >
> ---
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
It's interesting that this discussion came up yesterday at the Scapoose homewing
flyin. Van was looking over at the RV9 taildragger and commented that not many
sales had come from the TD version as most of the new builders wanted the trike.
He said the trike is also the most popular on the RV7's... Seems like a
new era of homebuilders is taking over with different tastes...
Good luck all you Rv9 builders. It sure did look nice as it lifted off to leave
the flyin!
- Andy
>
>Hi guys, I am the third (real airplane) rv9.I was wondering what
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: little wheel in the back |
Don/Marcia Piermattei wrote:
> Todd,
> How about enlightening us re your opinion that the trike is better for
> short/rough strips. I was disappointed to have purchased my kit before the
> tail dragger and didn't want to regress to have to convert, but I will be
> operating from a short/rough strip.
> Thanks,
My understanding is that the because the nose draggers can obtain a higher angle
of
attach on the ground with out the tail hitting the ground, they can get off quicker.
Apparently the AOA with the tail wheel on the ground is still a ways away from
the AOA
with greatest lift.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <chrisw3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: little wheel in the back |
Ralph Cloud wrote:
> Also, You can get a higher AOA on landing, making for a slower touchdown and
> shorter rollout.
Why can't you just land it on the tail wheel first and then let the main gear
come down? A friend of mine who used to fly in Alaska said he did that on
occasion in a Cub when he needed to set it down on a really short stretch of
beach.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw(at)programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Hi Tom,
Are you tipper or slider?
Dennis Thomas
fuselage approaching canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Hi;
I'll try to answer all in one e-mail
>
>
> Todd,I have been watching your project with intrest ever since I
> started mine a year and a half ago .If you beat me in the air
> please come visit in montana
My website is woefully out of date, but as I near completion I really don't
feel like working on the PC to update it. I'm even having a tough time
keeping up with e-mail. After I have all testing done I'll likely go north
for a few weeks, then late summer I'll probably go visit a few friends in
the states, before I leave I'll put out an e-mail on the list and would be
happy to stop in and take other builders for a ride.
a.. How about enlightening us re your opinion that the trike is better for
short/rough strips. I was disappointed to have purchased my kit before the
tail dragger and didn't want to regress to have to convert, but I will be
operating from a short/rough strip. Thanks, Don Piermattei
Lacking personal experience with the two models on rough strips, my opinion
is based on others experience and judgement. Ken Kruger (from Vans) wrote a
good article which is posted somewhere on the Vans Airforce world wing. It
discusses this very thing. Further to this a few years ago I discussed this
with him in person with a buddy of mine who is a commercial bush pilot. To
sum up the conversation it came down to three main points.
1.. Visibility- If you can see the obstacle, you are much less likely to
hit the obstacle.
2.. Braking- you can brake harder without concern of going over on the
nose
3.. AOA- able to have slower, steeper approach as the mains are located
further aft which allows for a much steeper pitch (greater than stall)
without touching the tail. Take off is also greatly improved as you can very
quickly rotate into ground effect, then speed will quickly increase to best
climb, without bouncing along on rough terrain.
conventional thought is that conventional gear is preferred for short
rough landing strips ala bush planes. What are your reasonings?
These are unconventional planes allowing for unconventional thinking. I'm
sure that some planes designed specifically for bush operations (which these
are not) do benefit from conventional gear, but many also do this to cater
to pilot perceived advantage. Many (most?) modern bush planes in northern
Canada are trikes and operate out of soft strips carved out of the muskeg.
a.. My understanding is that the because the nose draggers can obtain a
higher angle of attach on the ground with out the tail hitting the ground,
they can get off quicker. Apparently the AOA with the tail wheel on the
ground is still a ways away from the AOA with greatest lift. --Chris
Woodhouse
b.. Also, You can get a higher AOA on landing, making for a slower
touchdown and shorter rollout. Ralph
Yep, that's about right.
a.. Why can't you just land it on the tail wheel first and then let the
main gear come down? A friend of mine who used to fly in Alaska said he did
that on occasion in a Cub when he needed to set it down on a really short
stretch of beach. -- Chris Woodhouse
Doing this perfectly every time would take alot of skill and concentration
on a smooth surface (such as a wet beach), but could you do this every time
on a rough strip? What about that one little bump that you couldn't see? I
can envision that little bump on the tailwheel slapping the plane down on
the mains, resulting in a nose heavy bounce, with a really ugly finish. I'm
one to take difficult calculated risks that require much skill and
concentration, but to what advantage? I don't see one here.
Am I correct in my thinking here? I don't know for certain. Could be I don't
have a clue, but these are my thoughts for those that asked.
I hope this helps or at least entertained ;-)
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RV-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe
in, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
---
________________________________________________________________________________
06/16/2003 08:09:47 AM
I would love a bit of feedback from those who have built their ailerons.
According to the Van's instructions you should countersink the spar for the
ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the metal is 0.060 inch thick.
This didn't work too well. When I got all done I noticed that the
countersink was really close to all the way through the spar. In fact the
clecos would no longer stay attached to the spar. I riveted the whole thing
together and it seems okay but it was a bit of a mess. The second aileron
spar I dimpled and it was way better, I didn't observe any warping in the
spar as the directions warned. Did anyone think the countersinks in the
aileron spar looked too deep for comfort or have a similar experience?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moxie" <rv9a(at)wideopenwest.com> |
BFlood,
>> I would love a bit of feedback from those who have built their ailerons.
>> According to the Van's instructions you should countersink the spar for
the
>> ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the metal is 0.060 inch
thick.
>> This didn't work too well.
I had the same Problem. I found a RV9A website that explained to counter
sink the top
skin w/ the aileron spar (like the tank skin to baffle countersink). The
nose skin then covers the top. I like the idea of dimpling only.
If I find the Website again I will pass it along.
Best regards,
Moxie 78-)
Working on the Wings 90329
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Hi Guys;
Ed has forwarded to me the link for the article that I mentioned (as I
was
too busy (lazy?) to find it). I had forgotten that it was posted as
anonymous, but is most likely written by Ken Scott from Vans, not Ken Kruger
as I had erroneously stated earlier. I have pasted the article below in its
entirety as I feel it is a very valid argument. As I mentioned earlier, a
friend of mine who is a commercial bush pilot in northern Alberta agrees
with this argument wholeheartedly.
Another thing that should be mentioned is that this article was written
before the "9" was released as a taildragger, but through the rumour mill
I've heard that it is very difficult to land as it really doesn't want to
stop flying, a trait that is discussed in this article in reference to the
traditional Vans wing. The greater lift of the Roncz airfoil has made this
even worse.
This is not to put down the TD, but to explain my reasoning for using the
TG configuration for rough strip use, but I will use it as a TD for ski
operations which I'm looking forward to.
Please read article below if not read already.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RV-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe
in, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
Nosewheel vs. Tailwheel (another opinion) by Anonymous
I'm a private pilot of average ability, but I have lucked into the chance
to do more RV flying (and compare the types) than most people. I have an
RV-6 that Ive flown for several years, accumulating about 600 hours and
probably 800 landings. Ive flown 45 hours or so in RV-4s and maybe 80 in
RV-8s. I have about 400-500 hours and at least 1000 landings in tri-gear
RVs, including the RV-6A, RV-8A and RV-9A.
Which do I like better? Well, drum me out of the real-men-fly-taildraggers
corps, but I have become an unabashed proponent of the tri-gear. And not
because there is a thing wrong with the tailwheelers.
I love my 6 and fly it every chance I get. I dont have an extensive
breadth of tailwheel time the usual Champ/Citabria stuff and a few goes at
Pipers but certainly the RV is not a whole lot more demanding, once you
understand the differences. It is quicker, and less forgiving of errors in
airspeed and attitude, but directional control is not the usual problem on
landing. (It can be on take-off if you are not ready with your right foot.)
However, it is NOT as easy as landing the tri-gear.
I find that I can almost always land the tri-gear shorter. That surprises a
lot of people, who have mental images of super STOL tailwheel bush
airplanes, but in the case of the RV theres a reason: tailwheel RVs are
very difficult to land in a true full-stall condition. Usually, to get the
airplane that slow, the nose has to be quite a bit higher than it wants to
be for landing. You end up getting the tailwheel on while the mains are
still in the air, and the airplane pivots around the tailwheel, banging the
mains into the surface. With the spring steel gear the RVs use, any energy
put into the gear leg is going to come back out right now, and the airplane
will start hopping. If its a hard bounce, it can hop quite energetically,
and it is very easy to end up in a PIO, half a step out of phase with the
airplane and making everything worse in a hurry.
The usual technique is to fly the airplane on to the ground in a 3-point
attitude and as the speed bleeds off and the weight transfers to the gear,
gradually pull the stick back in your gut. This is why the tailwheel is
more demanding: if you put the mains on first and drop the tailwheel even a
little bit, the angle of attack increases, and that RV wing will fly so slow
that you will find yourself several inches above the surface waiting for the
darn thing to come back down. Pull that stick back too much, too soon and
you can balloon impressively, and youd better be ready with the throttle.
Even if you have all three wheels on the ground, and pull the stick too
soon, you can flex the tailspring enough to get the same resultthe AOA
increase and the airplane comes back off the ground. Go to a fly-in and
watch RVs landmost of them skip once or twice. Nowhere during the this
skipping does the airplane want to swap ends (good) but neither can you get
any good out of the brakes (not so good). I also find wheel landings on
this gear something of a challenge, although several of my friends have
become quite good at them. It helps to deliberately land on one wheel at a
time, to minimize the amount of spring back from the gear legs. Since wheel
landings use noticeably more runway and are harder to do, I rarely do them.
Call me chicken if you like.
Conversely, when landing the tri-gear, you can touch down in almost the same
attitude as the tailwheel airplane, but now when the mains touch, the nose
wants to come down. The AOA decreases, which means that the airplane will
stay on the ground. It is easy to keep the nose wheel from touchingeven at
landing speeds, RVs have plenty of elevator authority. But now that you
know youre down to stay, you can apply the brakes earlier in the landing
roll, hence shorter landings.
In rough or short field operations, I prefer the trigear. For one thing I
can see over the nose when Im taxiing (not easy in the tailwheels,
especially the wide RV-6) which means I can miss the chuckholes, taxiway
edges etc. Im not worried particularly about prop clearanceif I stay out
of the holes, the only way I can get the prop is to tear the nosewheel off.
The larger nosewheel also seems to bridge some of the gopher holes the
little tailwheel falls into.
As far as performance, I cant tell the difference in speeds. Im sure Van
s quoted figures are accurate, but the variation he notes between nosewheel
and tailwheel is also well within the variation between individual airplanes
of the same gear type.
I also find flying cross-country in the tri-gear to be more relaxingI know
that I can land the airplane under whatever conditions I find when I reach
my destinationIve made at least one landing on a paved runway in an RV-6A
that I would not have attempted in my RV-6.on that day, the crosswinds were
so strong that had I been in the tailwheel airplane, I would have found a
wide spot on the airport and landed into the wind and not even attempted the
runway.
It almost seems like something for nothingan airplane that is easier to
land, consistently lands shorter, is easier to taxi, and goes just as fast.
There must be a downside but the only one I can think of is that the
tri-gear RV-6A is slightly heavier (about 17 pounds according to Vans guys)
than an identical-except-for-the-wheels RV-6 and a little more expensive.
The RV-8A, surprisingly, is actually slightly lighter that a comparable
RV-8 no gear towers in the fuselage, and lighter rod gear legsthose leaf
spring gear legs in the RV-8 are really massive. (I suppose you could use
the aftermarket aluminum leaves in the RV-8 and save more than difference,
but I dont know the service history on themVan sells the 8 with steel
gear, and do you suppose that he overlooked the weight savings when he
designed the thing? I doubt it.)
Ive heard all the arguments about which gear arrangement looks better, and
thats certainly a valid personal opinion. But Ive found that I cant see
the wheels when Im sitting in the airplane, which is the viewpoint I put
value on most.
My conclusion is that if I build another RV (I would love to build an RV-9A,
but I already have a good airplane and cant afford two right now) I will
use the nosewheel.
All the above is personal opinion. It should be considered grist for the
decision mill and nothing more. If your heart really cries out for a
taildragger, go right ahead. Building an airplane is a lot of work, and I
can see no point in spending it all on your second choice.
----
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
That was probably mine..
http://webpages.charter.net/RV9A/Wing2.htm
--clay
--- Moxie wrote:
>
>
>
> BFlood,
>
> >> I would love a bit of feedback from those who
> have built their ailerons.
> >> According to the Van's instructions you should
> countersink the spar for
> the
> >> ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the
> metal is 0.060 inch
> thick.
> >> This didn't work too well.
>
> I had the same Problem. I found a RV9A website that
> explained to counter
> sink the top
> skin w/ the aileron spar (like the tank skin to
> baffle countersink). The
> nose skin then covers the top. I like the idea of
> dimpling only.
>
> If I find the Website again I will pass it along.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Moxie 78-)
>
> Working on the Wings 90329
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Haven't got to the ailerons yet. But on the stab spar I had about 1/3 of the
thickness left. These were .065 .
As you probably know, the rule of thumb is dimple .040 and thinner and
machine sink above this thickness.
The countersink depth for a #3 rivet is apprx. .045.
This should leave you with approx .015 or 25% of the thickness of the spar.
There should have been some of the rivet shank engaging the side of the
hole. Perhaps you sunk the rivet head a little too deep.
Were the rivets swimming in the hole? If so, they may not have swelled
enough to give you strengh and prevent smoking.
In my opinion, I would probably (and don't yell) redo the spar. You can deal
with the enlarged skin holes by using a longer rivet and swelling it to fill
the hole. BTW, When I was building the 6, I became Florida's best rivet
remover and sweller!
However, as I recall I did dimple the rear wing spar on my RV6A .
Peter
> >
> I would love a bit of feedback from those who have built their ailerons.
> According to the Van's instructions you should countersink the spar for
the
> ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the metal is 0.060 inch thick.
> This didn't work too well. When I got all done I noticed that the
> countersink was really close to all the way through the spar. In fact the
> clecos would no longer stay attached to the spar. I riveted the whole
thing
> together and it seems okay but it was a bit of a mess. The second aileron
> spar I dimpled and it was way better, I didn't observe any warping in the
> spar as the directions warned. Did anyone think the countersinks in the
> aileron spar looked too deep for comfort or have a similar experience?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
I think either works fine but I like todd, will be putting on skiis,My favorite
type of flying.with 210hp getting out of short strips isnt an issue(landing is
more of an issue)and last but least of all nothing is more stunning than an
rv with a little wheel(it can always be converted later)
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Little wheel - Big engine |
>
> I think either works fine but I like Todd, will be putting on
> skiis,My favorite type of flying.with 210hp getting out of short
> strips isnt an issue(landing is more of an issue)and last but
> least of all nothing is more stunning than an rv with a little
> wheel(it can always be converted later)
>
> Tom
>
210hp ? In your "9"? Surely not a Lyc? Don't get me wrong, I'm not against
extra ponies as long as they're handled properly, I'm just curious as to
what you're using. I've got the turbo rotary which can produce 250hp, but
plan to limit my boost for normalization only, keeping it down to about
180hp. Unless of course an emergency requires more... like showing up some
bigmouth Lyc driver ;-)
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RV-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe
in, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
I agree with Peter. .040 is tough to dimple nicely. I wouldn't try .060. If
you carefully machine countersink .060, you should have plenty left.
One alternative would be to try to dimple the .060, (which wouldn't be deep enough
for a good fit ), then finish with a light countersink.
Gary
Haven't got to the ailerons yet. But on the stab spar I had about 1/3 of the
thickness left. These were .065 .
As you probably know, the rule of thumb is dimple .040 and thinner and
machine sink above this thickness.
The countersink depth for a #3 rivet is apprx. .045.
This should leave you with approx .015 or 25% of the thickness of the spar.
There should have been some of the rivet shank engaging the side of the
hole. Perhaps you sunk the rivet head a little too deep.
Were the rivets swimming in the hole? If so, they may not have swelled
enough to give you strengh and prevent smoking.
In my opinion, I would probably (and don't yell) redo the spar. You can deal
with the enlarged skin holes by using a longer rivet and swelling it to fill
the hole. BTW, When I was building the 6, I became Florida's best rivet
remover and sweller!
However, as I recall I did dimple the rear wing spar on my RV6A .
Peter
> >
> I would love a bit of feedback from those who have built their ailerons.
> According to the Van's instructions you should countersink the spar for
the
> ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the metal is 0.060 inch thick.
> This didn't work too well. When I got all done I noticed that the
> countersink was really close to all the way through the spar. In fact the
> clecos would no longer stay attached to the spar. I riveted the whole
thing
> together and it seems okay but it was a bit of a mess. The second aileron
> spar I dimpled and it was way better, I didn't observe any warping in the
> spar as the directions warned. Did anyone think the countersinks in the
> aileron spar looked too deep for comfort or have a similar experience?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e: RV9-List: |
06/17/2003 07:57:33 AM
Just wanted to clarify a bit on the aileron spar problem. I am not
countersinking for a rivet, but rather countersinking for a dimple in the
skin. So the countersink depth and width seem to be greater than the
standard .040-.045. My general problem then becomes C-sinking too deep in
the .060 spar. The only solution I have heard is to C-sink the spar and
skin together and then dimple the leading edge or dimple all three. Any
other ideas.
Thanks for the input
Bryan
To:
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List:
Haven't got to the ailerons yet. But on the stab spar I had about 1/3 of
the
thickness left. These were .065 .
As you probably know, the rule of thumb is dimple .040 and thinner and
machine sink above this thickness.
The countersink depth for a #3 rivet is apprx. .045.
This should leave you with approx .015 or 25% of the thickness of the spar.
There should have been some of the rivet shank engaging the side of the
hole. Perhaps you sunk the rivet head a little too deep.
Were the rivets swimming in the hole? If so, they may not have swelled
enough to give you strengh and prevent smoking.
In my opinion, I would probably (and don't yell) redo the spar. You can
deal
with the enlarged skin holes by using a longer rivet and swelling it to
fill
the hole. BTW, When I was building the 6, I became Florida's best rivet
remover and sweller!
However, as I recall I did dimple the rear wing spar on my RV6A .
Peter
> >
> I would love a bit of feedback from those who have built their ailerons.
> According to the Van's instructions you should countersink the spar for
the
> ailerons instead of using a dimple die b/c the metal is 0.060 inch
thick.
> This didn't work too well. When I got all done I noticed that the
> countersink was really close to all the way through the spar. In fact the
> clecos would no longer stay attached to the spar. I riveted the whole
thing
> together and it seems okay but it was a bit of a mess. The second aileron
> spar I dimpled and it was way better, I didn't observe any warping in the
> spar as the directions warned. Did anyone think the countersinks in the
> aileron spar looked too deep for comfort or have a similar experience?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 (little wheel in the back) |
Been reading all the pros and cons about TD vs ND on short rough strips,
recently a friend of mine landed his super cub on a grass strip he frequently
uses, well the weather in the pacific northwest has been unusually good lately,
which is conducive to rapid grass growth. Short story is, the tall grass brought
the mains to a quick halt but the rest of the cub kept going and wound up on
its back with a bent up prop, a not so vertical stabilizer, and a very
unhappy. embarrassed but unharmed demolition derby stunt pilot.
I believe in this instance, a nose wheel would have made this story have a
happier ending.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Time to Build Wings |
I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a quick reply from
those who have completed wings on which model RV you are doing, if it is a quick
build or not, and approximate numbers of hours to complete the wings? Thanks
in advance, Glenn in Arizona -9A emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to Build Wings |
Wings, 339.8 hours on a non-quick build RV9A
John Oliveira, 90054
N909RV Reserved
I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a quick reply
from those who have completed wings on which model RV you are doing, if it
is a quick build or not, and approximate numbers of hours to complete the
wings? Thanks in advance, Glenn in Arizona -9A emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to Build Wings |
will complete non quick build wings in about 500 hours.
I am just over 400 with one flap and controls to go.
John Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Brasch <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:01 am
Subject: RV9-List: Time to Build Wings
>
> I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a
> quick reply from those who have completed wings on which model RV
> you are doing, if it is a quick build or not, and approximate
> numbers of hours to complete the wings? Thanks in advance, Glenn
> in Arizona -9A emp.
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Time to Build Wings |
At one point I read something on Van's website, quoting an experianced
builder, who kept very exact records of his building time. He did his wings in
440
hours. I must confess I spent almost 700 hours on mine. My records are at the
hanger and I will post my exact time tonight.
Dennis Thomas 90164
finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Problems countersinking aileron spars |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
>When I got all done I noticed that the countersink was really close to all the
way through the spar.
I had a similar problem with one of my flaps, but someone at Van's (can't
remember who I spoke to) gave me a good solution. Order a narrow strip of
.025 aluminum from Van's and match drill it to the spar. This piece of
aluminum should be placed underneath the spar flange and acts as a doubler.
When you rivet everything together, the rivet will go through the dimpled
skin, then through the spar, and then through the .025 doubler.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
Todd,my engine is a subaru ej 25 from NSI with a cap 200 prop. If you want to see
a pic, Go to E- subieforum@yahoogroups .com and clic on photos not as cool
as your plane but I think it will work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to Build Wings |
I haven't finished my wings. I still have to prime and rivet the bottom
skins and finish the tips, but so far I have 290 hours in them.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
>I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a quick reply from
those who have completed wings on which model RV you are doing, if it is a quick
build or not, and approximate numbers of hours to complete the wings? Thanks
in advance, Glenn in Arizona -9A emp.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to Build Wings |
I haven't finished my wings (non-quickbuild). I still have to prime and
rivet the bottom skins and finish the tips, but so far I have 290 hours
in them.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
>I am trying to make some computations and plans. Can I get a quick reply from
those who have completed wings on which model RV you are doing, if it is a quick
build or not, and approximate numbers of hours to complete the wings? Thanks
in advance, Glenn in Arizona -9A emp.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
Dan and gary ,I am in Bigfork Up near glacier park . you Are welcome to stop by
anytime .Dan,I will look up Belt and see where you are.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jill and Tom Welch" <tomtana(at)centurytel.net> |
Gary got things mixed up .If we can touch base I will fly over and check out your
project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Vaccum Pump Type O320E3D? |
Anyone out there know the correct vaccum pump for an Lyc O320 e3d?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV9 - Fuel Tanks |
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Maybe someone can help me out. I am working on the fuel tanks, and I
can't seem to find the precise location to mount the fitting for the
vent line on the inside rib. I bought the capacitance fuel senders, and
they give measurements from the vent fitting, but I have not been able
to find (other than general area) where to put the vent fitting on any
of the drawings or instructions. Am I missing something, or does it not
really matter?
Thanks!
-Ted Strand-
N371N - Reserved
9A - Tanks
Clearwater, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Weyant [mailto:chuck(at)chuckdirect.com]
Subject: RV9-List: Vaccum Pump Type O320E3D?
Anyone out there know the correct vaccum pump for an Lyc O320 e3d?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 - Fuel Tanks |
I am still at work, so I don't have all the drawings, etc. with me.
However, if I remember correctly all I did was to copy the drawing with
the end rib shown (with the vent line fitting shown on it) and used that
as a template. On the other hand, it really is not that critical for
either the vent fitting or the capacitive sensor output.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Ted Strand wrote:
>
>Maybe someone can help me out. I am working on the fuel tanks, and I
>can't seem to find the precise location to mount the fitting for the
>vent line on the inside rib. I bought the capacitance fuel senders, and
>they give measurements from the vent fitting, but I have not been able
>to find (other than general area) where to put the vent fitting on any
>of the drawings or instructions. Am I missing something, or does it not
>really matter?
>
>Thanks!
>
>-Ted Strand-
>N371N - Reserved
>9A - Tanks
>Clearwater, FL
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chuck Weyant [mailto:chuck(at)chuckdirect.com]
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: Vaccum Pump Type O320E3D?
>
>
>Anyone out there know the correct vaccum pump for an Lyc O320 e3d?
>Chuck
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 - Fuel Tanks |
If I were doing this again I'd rethink the BNC connector than Van uses for
the fuel gage. The interface modules have ring terminals on them and several
builders reported leaks at the center conductor or the bulkhead BNC
connector. I had leaks there myself and replaced the fitting supplied with
one designed for a pressure bulkhead. The BNC connector is not a bad choice
since it fills the requirement of a positive lock non-grounded connector but
a regular machine screw with insulated washers would do the same thing.
The general location of the vent and fuel gage wire is shown on OP-13 and
the precise locations are not critical as the vent line from the fuselage is
flexible enough to make the connection.
Albert Gardner
872RV 27 hours
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9 - Fuel Tanks
>
> I am still at work, so I don't have all the drawings, etc. with me.
> However, if I remember correctly all I did was to copy the drawing with
> the end rib shown (with the vent line fitting shown on it) and used that
> as a template. On the other hand, it really is not that critical for
> either the vent fitting or the capacitive sensor output.
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
>
> Ted Strand wrote:
>
> >
> >Maybe someone can help me out. I am working on the fuel tanks, and I
> >can't seem to find the precise location to mount the fitting for the
> >vent line on the inside rib. I bought the capacitance fuel senders, and
> >they give measurements from the vent fitting, but I have not been able
> >to find (other than general area) where to put the vent fitting on any
> >of the drawings or instructions. Am I missing something, or does it not
> >really matter?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >-Ted Strand-
> >N371N - Reserved
> >9A - Tanks
> >Clearwater, FL
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Chuck Weyant [mailto:chuck(at)chuckdirect.com]
> >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV9-List: Vaccum Pump Type O320E3D?
> >
> >
> >Anyone out there know the correct vaccum pump for an Lyc O320 e3d?
> >Chuck
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Match Drilling question |
Hi There,
New builder here. I am match drilling my HS ribs and spars. How do I match
drill the nose/main rib/ front spar combo? I can't get my drill in there
square to do it. Is there a trick, or is it OK to be out of square a bit?
There is a good chance I am missing something basic. I am using a small
cordless drill if that makes a difference.
Thanks,
Pete Howell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Match Drilling question |
Pete,
If I remember, I just pushed the main rib at enough angle to get the drill
into place. If you have two clecoes in and drill the remaining hole you
should be able to do this easily. If you bend the main rib flag, just bend
it back. If you do not have a Souix air drill, you might think very
seriously about getting one.
Hope this helps.
Mike
SC
90709 (put deposit on wing kit)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Match Drilling question
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hi There,
>
> New builder here. I am match drilling my HS ribs and spars. How do I
match
> drill the nose/main rib/ front spar combo? I can't get my drill in there
> square to do it. Is there a trick, or is it OK to be out of square a bit?
> There is a good chance I am missing something basic. I am using a small
> cordless drill if that makes a difference.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete Howell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Match Drilling question |
Also, before you are done, you will need at least one, 90-degree drill
chuck attachment. Get one from Brown Tool, or Cleveland, etc. with a small
size so it fits in tight corners. Cordless drills are nice, but they tend
to be bulky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | re drilling hs ribs to spar |
Pete,
I cheated and clecoed the nose rib to the spar without the main rib and
match drilled. Then I took off the
nose rib, clecoed the main rib and repeated the process. In both cases I was
able to easily keep the drill vertical
and thus make reasonably neat holes.
Mick Muller
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hi There,
>
> New builder here. I am match drilling my HS ribs and spars. How do I
match
> drill the nose/main rib/ front spar combo? I can't get my drill in there
> square to do it. Is there a trick, or is it OK to be out of square a bit?
> There is a good chance I am missing something basic. I am using a small
> cordless drill if that makes a difference.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete Howell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re drilling hs ribs to spar |
-------Original Message-------
From: MICK MULLER <MULLERPHARM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: RV9-List: re drilling hs ribs to spar
> Use Long Bit 12" Helps with angel.
Pete,
I cheated and clecoed the nose rib to the spar without the main rib
and
match drilled. Then I took off the
nose rib, clecoed the main rib and repeated the process. In both cases I
was
able to easily keep the drill vertical
and thus make reasonably neat holes.
Mick Muller
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hi There,
>
> New builder here. I am match drilling my HS ribs and spars. How do I
match
> drill the nose/main rib/ front spar combo? I can't get my drill in
there
> square to do it. Is there a trick, or is it OK to be out of square a
bit?
> There is a good chance I am missing something basic. I am using a small
> cordless drill if that makes a difference.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete Howell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Clecko-lock Cleckos |
Hello,
I bought some used clecos (Clecko-lock) and I find that they will not fit in
the pre punched holes, but will fit after they are drilled out to #30 or
#40. Can I just use the scotchbrite wheel to shave a bit off the tip to
make them fit? I don't think I should force them in.
Cheers,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clecko-lock Cleckos |
Pete, force them in. That's how mine fit. The clecoes are #30 or #40's
(copper or silver color) so they fit when the holes are drilled with a #30
or #40 bit. The prepunch holes are just a bit smaller hole size.
Mike
SC
90709 (wing kit deposit mailed)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Clecko-lock Cleckos
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I bought some used clecos (Clecko-lock) and I find that they will not fit
in
> the pre punched holes, but will fit after they are drilled out to #30 or
> #40. Can I just use the scotchbrite wheel to shave a bit off the tip to
> make them fit? I don't think I should force them in.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High Compression Pistons |
Anyone know the part numbers for high compresion pistons for the O320 E2G
engine? I believe it is a wide deck. I am looking for HC pistons of either
9.5 or 10:1.
Thanks
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | S/W fuel level senders |
I ordered a set of the Stewart Warner fuel level senders from Vans for some
tanks I built, I thought there would be a "left" and a "right", the two I got
appear to be identical. Can any of you guys who built your tanks recently
remember what the difference between the two senders was?
Thanks,
Kevin Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: S/W fuel level senders |
Hi Kevin,
As I remember the floats are the same from the factory. The wire rod that
attaches the float to the sending unit needs to be formed by you and you need
to make one left and one right. The instructions are in the kit and are easy
to follow.
Dennis Thomas
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S/W fuel level senders |
| From: | Vicki Schrimmer <abusymom(at)cox.net> |
Kevin,
My left sender is stamped with a number--385B 0201 and my right sender is
stamped 385C 0012. The sender portion of the two units is identical, but the
bolt pattern on the mounting plate is different. The left bolt pattern is a
mirror image of the right pattern.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: S/W fuel level senders |
Thanks for the answer, it seemed unusual that the only difference between a
left and a right was the bolt pattern on the plate but this is apparently the
way S/W makes them.
Kevin Shannon
> Kevin,
>
> My left sender is stamped with a number--385B 0201 and my right sender is
> stamped 385C 0012. The sender portion of the two units is identical, but the
> bolt pattern on the mounting plate is different. The left bolt pattern is a
> mirror image of the right pattern.
>
> Mark Schrimmer
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | S/W fuel level senders |
Kevin _ I remember being similarly puzzled. In the end I think I decided
they were not identical and I think the issue is the hole pattern in the
mounting plate. From very hazy memory the issue is this. At first sight the
three (?) mounting holes describe an equilateral triangle but in fact they
don't. Mine were QB wings so what the plate mounted to was already
installed. In the paperwork one sender was indicated as L the other as R
though this was hard to find. I decided that I could mount either sender in
either wing but they were made the way they were with this slight difference
in case it mattered in a different installation. As I write this I wonder if
I dreamed that all up, but I think not.
So the bottom line is that there is a L & R but in our installation it does
not matter much. The 'break' in the symmetry is the mounting plate.
Let me know if that is all horseshit!
Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Im7shannon(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: S/W fuel level senders
I ordered a set of the Stewart Warner fuel level senders from Vans for some
tanks I built, I thought there would be a "left" and a "right", the two I
got
appear to be identical. Can any of you guys who built your tanks recently
remember what the difference between the two senders was?
Thanks,
Kevin Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: S/W fuel level senders |
Regarding the fuel senders - - - do not get these senders mixed up. Keep
them in the original boxes or label them so you won't confuse them. They
are DEFINITELY not the same. The tanks may be symmetrical but the senders
are set differently for the angle of incidence, I guess. If you install the
senders on the opposite wings you will be compounding the offset (doubling
the error). You may not discover this unacceptable mounting error until you
are flight testing. A real bummer ! ! There must be some stories in the
archives - everyone has some major delays earlier in the project, but I
would be really depressed finding a time-consuming delay at the airport.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Fairings
> Thanks for the answer, it seemed unusual that the only difference between
a
> left and a right was the bolt pattern on the plate but this is apparently
the
> way S/W makes them.
> Kevin Shannon
>
> > Kevin,
> >
> > My left sender is stamped with a number--385B 0201 and my right sender
is
> > stamped 385C 0012. The sender portion of the two units is identical, but
the
> > bolt pattern on the mounting plate is different. The left bolt pattern
is a
> > mirror image of the right pattern.
> >
> > Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Starn
Subject: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.06.28.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Starn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Starn
Subject: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhstarn@earthlink.net.06.28.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer |
| From: | Brice Bowman <brice(at)earshotaudiopost.com> |
After squeezing about 100 #4 rivets in the empennage skeleton, I'm looking
for a pneumatic squeezer. Does anyone out there have a used one for sale? Or
recommendations on particular models/suppliers/yokes?
Brice Bowman
Earshot Audio Post
Indianapolis, Indiana
(317) 803-3727
RV-9A #90620
Riveting Empennage, Waiting on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
sometimes I make junk faster than most. does anyone have some MK-319-
BS pop rivets left over from flap assembly that they can spare?
John Kerr
45 East 200 North
Logan, UT 84321
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Approach speed for fixed pitch RV-9A |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
A friend of mine who doesn't monitor this list is starting to fly off
the 25 hours on his recently completed RV-9A. He has an 0-320 and a fixed
pitch Sensenich prop. He wants to know what final approach speed those of
you with a similar engine/prop combination are using.
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach speed for fixed pitch RV-9A |
I have the same combination and started off with about 80mph on dw, 70 on
final and started to flare at about 60. Also found that full flaps are a
great help keeping the nose from being so high in the flare. Beware of
setting the plane down with high airspeeds since several have either hit the
nose gear on touchdown or after a bit of porpoising. Have his buddies hold
the tail down into a landing configuration so he can see where the
nose/horizon should be before that first flight.
Good luck-this is a great plane.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV 35 hours..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Approach speed for fixed pitch RV-9A
>
> A friend of mine who doesn't monitor this list is starting to fly off
> the 25 hours on his recently completed RV-9A. He has an 0-320 and a fixed
> pitch Sensenich prop. He wants to know what final approach speed those of
> you with a similar engine/prop combination are using.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach speed for fixed pitch RV-9A |
Interesting you mention that Albert, The other day I tried some no flap landings
again (had not done any since my earily testing days) and I was amazed at how
high the nose had to be to capture 70mph and flying down final. Good practice
for the day when the flap motor fails!
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Also found that full flaps are a
>great help keeping the nose from being so high in the flare. Beware of
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> |
| Subject: | Engine installation |
I've installed a standard 160hp 320 carbureted LYC. engine in my rv-9a and have
some questions some of you guys flying or otherwise can probably answer.
1. What cylinder should I install a single exhaust gas temperature probe? I have
a baffle mounted oil cooler located behind the no. 3 cylinder.
2. I'm installing a cold weather primer on the top port on the nos. 1 and 3 cylinders,
any problems?
3. Cylinder head temp (single probe) on bottom side of no. 4 cyl, any concerns?
4. Manifold pressure on lower rear port on no.4 cyl.?
5. FWF Kit came with a curved aluminum plate to strap in front of the Gascolator
to reduce radiant heat from nearby exhaust pipe does anyone recommend a cooling
tube similar to the tubes supplying air from the rear of the engine baffle
to the mags? I noticed Piper completely shrowds both the Gascol. and the fuel
pump and supplys cooling air as well.
6.What about the alternator and supplying cooling air from the right baffle floor?
7.Anyone have any experince using the E-Z or SAF-AIR oil drain devices to "aid
in changing your oil" ? See ppg 261 Aircraft Spruce.
8.My overhauled engine has a four bolt oil screen on the rear accessory case and
I want to convert over to a remote mounted filter, anyone have any experience
with the Airwolf brand?
9. Lastly, I'd like to hard pipe the gascolator bottom outlet drain to a Safe-Air
drain valve accessible at the bottom of the cowl, anyone tried this?
Hopefully with the number of 9's flying someone can share their best advice on
installing this equipment. I have consulted Van's and have received conflicting
info.
Steve Dwyer 90219 Target First Flight this Summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
I suggest you order more. I tend to use them in places like the rear upper
rivet on the flaps where I just could not set a good solid rivet. I ordered
more and I am sure I will use them elsewhere on the airframe.
John Oliveira
90054 - Fuselage in progress
>
>
> sometimes I make junk faster than most. does anyone have some MK-319-
> BS pop rivets left over from flap assembly that they can spare?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Gary Zilik ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary Zilik
Subject: CH Products Stick Grip
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/zilik@direcpc.com.07.05.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don and Shirley <don_shirley(at)propjock.com> |
| Subject: | W-919 Joint Plate question. |
The directions call for inserting the W-919 joint plate (a 1.5 inch wide
strip of metal that joins the leading edge to the fuel tank) between the
W- 901 skin and the W-908 rib. I can understand that well enough.
Looking at plan view and comparing it with section D-D on Drawing 9 I'm
having a difficult time figuring out where to end joint plate. My best
guess is the joint plate is as long as the rib and stops just short of
the spar. When I look at the section drawing it appears that the joint
plate covers the plate nut. The plan view seems to end it short of the
spar and platenut. The plans call for the joint plate to be 36 long
which will definitely extend it well beyond the spar. If it extends to
the spar it looks likely to cause a minor bulge there.
My question for those of you who have built the wings or are still
working on them, how far did you extend the joint plate?
Don
RV-9A, Wings (90702)
www.propjock.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)attglobal.net> |
"'RV9-list(at)matronics.com'"
| Subject: | RE: [RV-9A] W-919 joint plate |
Don,
I stopped my W-919 before it overlaps the spar. As you indicated you would end
up with a bump if the strip ocerlaps the spar. I extended mine just far enough
to cover all of the rivet/platenut locations on the leading edge skin and fuel
tank skin without overlapping the main spar.
Todd Houg (90196 - slowly . . .)
-----Original Message-----
From: Don and Shirley
Subject: [RV-9A] W-919 joint plate
The directions call for inserting the W-919 joint plate (a 1.5 inch
wide strip of metal that joins the leading edge to the fuel tank)
between the W- 901 skin and the W-908 rib. I can understand that well
enough. Looking at plan view and comparing it with section D-D on
Drawing 9 I'm having a difficult time figuring out where to end joint
plate. My best guess is the joint plate is as long as the rib and
stops just short of the spar. When I look at the section drawing it
appears that the joint plate covers the plate nut. The plan view
seems to end it short of the spar and platenut. The plans call for
the joint plate to be 36" long which will definitely extend it well
beyond the spar. If it extends to the spar it looks likely to cause a
minor bulge there.
My question for those of you who have built the wings or are still
working on them, how far did you extend the joint plate?
Don
RV-9A, Wings (90702)
www.propjock.com
Save up to 80% on top-quality inkjet cartridges and get your order fast!
FREE shipping on orders $50 or more to the US & Canada. Shop at Myinks.com!
http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
http://us.click.yahoo.com/v2G7ND/KfUGAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W-919 Joint Plate question. |
I too went to a little before the wing spar. Anything past the last rivet
in leading edge/bolt in fuel tank is un necessary from a structural
perspective. I think the 36" is the length of the material from which the
joint plate is to be constructed.
Mike Duiven
N711ED (Res.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don and Shirley" <don_shirley(at)propjock.com>
Subject: RV9-List: W-919 Joint Plate question.
>
> The directions call for inserting the W-919 joint plate (a 1.5 inch wide
> strip of metal that joins the leading edge to the fuel tank) between the
> W- 901 skin and the W-908 rib. I can understand that well enough.
> Looking at plan view and comparing it with section D-D on Drawing 9 I'm
> having a difficult time figuring out where to end joint plate. My best
> guess is the joint plate is as long as the rib and stops just short of
> the spar. When I look at the section drawing it appears that the joint
> plate covers the plate nut. The plan view seems to end it short of the
> spar and platenut. The plans call for the joint plate to be 36 long
> which will definitely extend it well beyond the spar. If it extends to
> the spar it looks likely to cause a minor bulge there.
>
>
> My question for those of you who have built the wings or are still
> working on them, how far did you extend the joint plate?
>
>
> Don
>
> RV-9A, Wings (90702)
>
> www.propjock.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | strobes and tubes |
07/08/2003 07:46:17 AM
Quick questions...
1. when I built my aileron push tubes I came up short on material.
The tube I had was only 36" long but I needed to make two 22" tubes. I
noticed last night that van's also sells a 48" tube. Did anyone get a 48"
tube and cut it in half or did van's give you two 36" tubes?
2. Has anyone tried using the NOVA X-PAK 904 strobe power supply
instead of the more expensive whelen model? I'm curious to see how it works
in flight. Less than half price is definitely attractive.
Thanks,
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com> |
| Subject: | strobes and tubes |
Bryan,
I believe I received two 36" aileron pushrods from Van's. I know I've got a couple
of cutoffs laying around.
I have the NOVA X-PAK 904 that I plan on using to drive Whelen strobe tubes. I
have the nav/strobe combo in the wingtip and strobe/white light combo for the
tail. While I'm not flying yet I have hooked them up in the shop to see how they
work. Let me tell you, these are bright! The X-pak 904 drives up to four strobe
tubes as two pairs of tubes where each pair flashes together. I hooked up
the wingtips to flash together and the tail as the only strobe on the second
pair. The charge for the wingtips is divided between the two strobes, but the
entire charge for the second pair goes to the single tail strobe and it does
get quite warm after running for a few minutes. I don't recall the power numbers,
but if I remember correctly the output of the strobe supply is close to the
maximum rating on the whelen strobe tube. The tail strobe should be mounted
such that it tolerates high temps and helps dissipate heat. Not a problem when
flying, but could get warm on the ground.
Todd Houg
N194TH (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: BFlood@sauer-danfoss.com [mailto:BFlood@sauer-danfoss.com]
Subject: RV9-List: strobes and tubes
Quick questions...
1. when I built my aileron push tubes I came up short on material.
The tube I had was only 36" long but I needed to make two 22" tubes. I
noticed last night that van's also sells a 48" tube. Did anyone get a 48"
tube and cut it in half or did van's give you two 36" tubes?
2. Has anyone tried using the NOVA X-PAK 904 strobe power supply
instead of the more expensive whelen model? I'm curious to see how it works
in flight. Less than half price is definitely attractive.
Thanks,
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Please see the attached zip file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: strobes and tubes |
| From: | Thomas J Lutgring <rv9abldr(at)juno.com> |
Vans sent me a single 48" that I cut into two. If you look at your parts
list closely you can find the part under sub kit #2, one piece of
ST4130-035x1/2x48-PC. Tom RV9A fuselage, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Nutplate Question |
I need a #6 or #8 nutplate that is smaller than the standard size.
Does anyone know what the rivet hole spacing is on the miniature
nutplates (MS21069 type)?
Thanks,
Dick Tasker, 90753
Waiting for Fuselage and working on the fiberglass tips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Question |
The MS21069-6 is .437
MS210169-8 is .469
MS210169-10 is .500
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Nutplate Question
>
> I need a #6 or #8 nutplate that is smaller than the standard size.
>
> Does anyone know what the rivet hole spacing is on the miniature
> nutplates (MS21069 type)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick Tasker, 90753
> Waiting for Fuselage and working on the fiberglass tips
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Hi Folks,
A question to those who have already been there. I'm just starting to trim
the big bubble. How far do you go on the initial cut? I see the mold marks
around the perimeter and assume these have to go. Is this a good guide line for
the first slice?
Dennis Thomas
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Brandvold" <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
That is where we started. Remember to sand the edges even if you have
more to take off. That way there is less chance of getting a crack
started.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV (Reserved)
Setting wing incidence angle.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Tip Up Canopy
Hi Folks,
A question to those who have already been there. I'm just starting to
trim
the big bubble. How far do you go on the initial cut? I see the mold
marks
around the perimeter and assume these have to go. Is this a good guide
line for
the first slice?
Dennis Thomas
Canopy
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tip Up Canopy |
Thanks Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Dennis - I have just finished mine. Remember to work from the front - per
the instructions - after you have cut the lip (mold marks) off. VANS give
out all sorts of instructions as to when to split it. I was about 3/4" above
the role bar when I decided I had cut enough at the front. You need to take
a lot more off than you think but just work slowly. It's a nasty job, and
keep the dust out of you!
Steve
#90360
UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Tip Up Canopy
Hi Folks,
A question to those who have already been there. I'm just starting to trim
the big bubble. How far do you go on the initial cut? I see the mold marks
around the perimeter and assume these have to go. Is this a good guide line
for
the first slice?
Dennis Thomas
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Moak <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Congratulations Gary |
I dont know if anybody else needs motivation to keep
pounding rivets but if you do go to Gary Newsteds web
site and see the newest RV9 to become an airplane. I
understand he had the first flight today.
Congratulations Gary! Looks Great.
Ken
Wings
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Are you still out there? |
Hi Guys,
I'm writing this because I'm lonely. The site is very quiet these days. I
fear the active contributors have all finished thier planes and moved on.
I have about 15 hours work in my canopy frame and canopy. It was not as bad
as I expected it to be but none the less a challenge. I have yet to do the
final trim on the rear window and then it's time to decide where to go next. I
think once the canopy (tip up ) and rear window are finished I will lay out
the panel and start at the engine mount.
I made one mistake that cost me a bit of time. When we riveted the top skins
on the rear of the fuselage we went all the way to the rear of the cabin.
The instructions, (which I neglected to study ahead) tell you to rivet the
forward top, just aft of the cabin, on afte the rear window ias fitted. It still
worked out.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9 taildragger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Are you still out there? |
Well I'll liven it up a little.... I've now logged 32 hours of rigorous
flight testing in nine days! 8 more to go before departing for Oshkosh on
monday. No sweat. Flown for hours at 10.5K, behind storms, high winds, and
great sunsets. She's performed flawlessly. I find myself with nothing more
to do but squirt it with polish and rub off the bugs. You're going to love
your 9's
Hope to see some familiar names and faces at Airventure!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
I have my wings mounted in my frame started putting on the skins. I first
used a single jack in the center to take the sag out of the spar but it
doesn't seem to take it all out, especially on the root end. After getting
the skins on, I noticed I had some oil canning in a few sections.
I'm curious for those of you who have or are working on your wings, did you
use more than one support to take the sag out? Do you have any oil canning
in your wings? I need to get a couple more jacks and some plumb bobs to
make sure everything looks kosher.. but just curious.
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Wings
N523RV
#90569
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
07/25/2003 04:36:19 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/25/2003 04:36:19 PM
Matthew,
Once the skins were clecoed on, my wings were very rigid. I only used one
support (a 5 gal bucket and an old car jack) in the center. When you put
all of the skins on, the oilcanning should be a thing of the past..
My wings came out within 3/64th of being true with no special care
involved. I personally think that you would have to screw up very badly
to have the wings come out very far from true.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Voice Supervisor
ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
(281) 227-5550
Matthew Brandes
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
07/25/2003 09:12 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: "'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'"
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning
I have my wings mounted in my frame started putting on the skins. I first
used a single jack in the center to take the sag out of the spar but it
doesn't seem to take it all out, especially on the root end. After
getting
the skins on, I noticed I had some oil canning in a few sections.
I'm curious for those of you who have or are working on your wings, did
you
use more than one support to take the sag out? Do you have any oil
canning
in your wings? I need to get a couple more jacks and some plumb bobs to
make sure everything looks kosher.. but just curious.
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Wings
N523RV
#90569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Are you still out there? |
It must be the summer heat or vacationing. I am on the emp of a 7A and Its
moving along nicely.
Tad Sargent RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
\"'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'\""
07/25/2003 09:39:36 AM
I found the same problem in my wings with oil canning but the solution
turned out to be the twist and not the sag. Some of the holes on the spar
were off by about 1/16 of an inch... the match hole technology has always
been so good I just shoved cleco's in which was a bit mistake. The solution
turned out to be to take the skins off, cleco in all the properly aligned
holes, check the twist was good and then match drill the bad holes and
cleco. The twist was good and no oil canning. If I remember right this was
on the outboard wing panel of the right wing.
Bryan
Matthew Brandes
To: "'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'"
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv9-list-server@mat Subject: RV9-List: Taking
the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning
ronics.com
07/25/2003 09:12 AM
Please respond to
rv9-list
I have my wings mounted in my frame started putting on the skins. I first
used a single jack in the center to take the sag out of the spar but it
doesn't seem to take it all out, especially on the root end. After getting
the skins on, I noticed I had some oil canning in a few sections.
I'm curious for those of you who have or are working on your wings, did you
use more than one support to take the sag out? Do you have any oil canning
in your wings? I need to get a couple more jacks and some plumb bobs to
make sure everything looks kosher.. but just curious.
Matthew Brandes
RV-9A Wings
N523RV
#90569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Are you still out there? |
This is something I have struggeled with... I subscribe to both the Matronics rv9
list and the Yahoo rv9 list. I simply route the emails with a rule into a single
incomming folder. Then I read & reply to what ever message is of interest.
That means that some of my comments land on one list or the other depending
on where the question was asked. I agree with others that yahoo is a spam source
once you give them your email...
Keep up the building, and ask away if you have questions.
- Andy (108hrs TT)
>
>Hi Guys,
>I'm writing this because I'm lonely. The site is very quiet these days. I
>fear the active contributors have all finished thier planes and moved on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Com/Nav Antenna Connectors |
What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is
there consistency among manufacturers?
Roger, Tucson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
I just cut a plastic pipe and shoved it in to hold the rear spar level. A
few shims to make sure it was really level did the trick. With all the skins
clecoed on the wing was as straight as I could measure.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
Piper Cherokee N5320W
1974 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning
>
> Matthew,
>
> Once the skins were clecoed on, my wings were very rigid. I only used one
> support (a 5 gal bucket and an old car jack) in the center. When you put
> all of the skins on, the oilcanning should be a thing of the past..
>
> My wings came out within 3/64th of being true with no special care
> involved. I personally think that you would have to screw up very badly
> to have the wings come out very far from true.
>
> Regards,
> Larry Perryman
> Voice Supervisor
> ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
> (281) 227-5550
>
>
> Matthew Brandes
> Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> 07/25/2003 09:12 AM
> Please respond to rv9-list
>
>
> To: "'rv9-list(at)matronics.com'"
> cc:
> Subject: RV9-List: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil
canning
>
>
> I have my wings mounted in my frame started putting on the skins. I first
> used a single jack in the center to take the sag out of the spar but it
> doesn't seem to take it all out, especially on the root end. After
> getting
> the skins on, I noticed I had some oil canning in a few sections.
>
> I'm curious for those of you who have or are working on your wings, did
> you
> use more than one support to take the sag out? Do you have any oil
> canning
> in your wings? I need to get a couple more jacks and some plumb bobs to
> make sure everything looks kosher.. but just curious.
>
> Matthew Brandes
> RV-9A Wings
> N523RV
> #90569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Power Packs |
Any opinions on a two power pack wing tip strobe setup over a single wing
tip strobe arrangement? Must make a decision before OSH QB wings&fuse are
on their way .
T Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | still out there? |
I guess oshkosh is a big draw and why a lot of people have not been around.
well, in case anyone is interested, I purchased a nice little RV-9A from
kevin shannon about 2 years ago. over the last month, noel simmons
(from blueskyaviation.net) has been doing a lot of avionics and other
upgrading for me, and it appears that he is doing a great job at it
right now. I am very pleased so far. also, reasonable pricing, though
quality work is first and foremost. I plan to write a webpage about the
upgrade job and put it up, too.
the point is that I think noel is planning to fly to oshkosh with
n994ks, too. So in case you want to see a real nice panel job, nice
quality work from builder and upgrader, and chat about 9As, you should
try to find noel there.
hope this helps some other builders.
regards,
/iaw
(this was unsolicited praise.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | flight characteristics |
I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail, and
the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate for
the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along trimmed
out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if changing
the
angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the tail
up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
Thanks, Kevin
I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top of my
head)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank" <fscorpio(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors |
It called a BNC connector.
Frank, N529ST reserved.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors
>
> What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is
> there consistency among manufacturers?
> Roger, Tucson.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
I just received a Hartwell H-5000-2 latch from Laird Owens (lairdn515l(at)yahoo.com)
for $7 including
shipping. The latch looks pretty good. Spruce sells these new for $57 and surplus
for $17 (plus
shipping). Andy's site has pictures of one installed on the oil door:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/Cowl/index.htm
Has anybody come up with a better fastener for the glovebox door in place of the
"wingnut" fastener
that Van's supplies with the glovebox kit?
Leland in Pleasanton
Near the end of a difficult job with the rear canopy skirts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
The plans say put a 1" hole in the firewall so the noseleg bolt can be
removed. I can find no mention of the way it is intended this hole is
subsequently 'blanked' or a part. Can someone point me in the right
direction?
Thanks, Steve
#90360
N Yorks, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe Power Packs |
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
While I was at Sun-N-Fun this year, I talked with the Whelen rep, and he
said by Oshkosh they should have a 3 way powerpak that will do both
wingtips (sync) and the tail (alternate). My understanding from him was
that it is going to be lighter. When I asked about the noise from the
long wire runs, he said that with 18 gauge shielded, it shouldn't be a
problem. He also suggested that they will have LED NAV lights
compatible with the RV's in the same time frame. Anyone else have some
input?
-Ted Strand-
N371N
Tank Assembly
P.S. Why is everyone looking at the Yahoo groups? This is a great list
and you don't get spammed like you do on Yahoo.
-----Original Message-----
From: Terrence Gardner [mailto:ttandt(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: RV9-List: Strobe Power Packs
Any opinions on a two power pack wing tip strobe setup over a single
wing
tip strobe arrangement? Must make a decision before OSH QB wings&fuse
are
on their way .
T Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
I found two blocks under the spar better than one. After the skins were clecoed
in place twist was 3/32 on each wing. I used a small block at each end to apply
the slight pressure needed to remove this when I riveted the first skins
on. There was no measurable twist in either wing after the final riveting was
complete.
Good luck
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose leg bolt |
It is plugged with a stainless steel cap that comes in
the finish kit (or maybe it was the FWF kit). Then
goop over that with RTV. The cap is the slightly
rounded type you'd put in the end of a pipe to finish
it off nicely.
Don't make that hole until you have a chance to fit
your engine mount and can locate it exactly where the
bolt will go through. The tendency is to get it too
high, by the way.
-Clay
No spam in my yahoo account yet... make sure your
account is set up on the mail options/subscriptions
page to not receive any of the dozens of newsletters
and such.
--- Steve Sampson wrote:
>
>
> The plans say put a 1" hole in the firewall so the
> noseleg bolt can be
> removed. I can find no mention of the way it is
> intended this hole is
> subsequently 'blanked' or a part. Can someone point
> me in the right
> direction?
>
> Thanks, Steve
> #90360
> N Yorks, UK
>
>
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose leg bolt |
Steve: On the drawing is a picture of the solution - a stainless steel cap
inserted in the hole.
I damaged the hole when it caught on the bolt deforming it. My work-around
was to make a plate and attach it with two an3 bolts (nut on the cabin side.
There is a "ring" of High Temp RTV between the plate and the firewall. The
plate is snug against the electrical fuel pump. I hope that the plate never
has to be removed in my lifetime - but it would only be a minor
inconvenience. With the SS plug you wouldn't need a helper - just plop the
plug out. I cannot fathom the situation whereby you would remove the nose
gear leg unless you have a really bad day.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Fairings
> The plans say put a 1" hole in the firewall so the noseleg bolt can be
> removed. I can find no mention of the way it is intended this hole is
> subsequently 'blanked' or a part. Can someone point me in the right
> direction? Thanks, Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose leg bolt |
Steve.....don't cut the hole. Kevin and I just knocked a stylish dent in the firewall
with a mushroom set in the rivet gun, and put the bolt in from the front.
The dent makes room for the nut.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Sampson
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 12:28 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Nose leg bolt
The plans say put a 1" hole in the firewall so the noseleg bolt can be
removed. I can find no mention of the way it is intended this hole is
subsequently 'blanked' or a part. Can someone point me in the right
direction?
Thanks, Steve
#90360
N Yorks, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | VS808PP lightening holes |
Greetings Listers,
The plans for the vertical stabiliser has lightening holes for the
doubler VS808PP shown on the drawing no 6 with instructions that they are
optional. How many of you cut out the two large holes and 5 smaller holes?
On another matter, a mate of mine and myself flew up to Bundaberg in Nth
Queensland OZ, home of Jabiru for an airshow this past weekend. I had a
chance to have a close look at the RV6 in which they have installed the 8
cylinder engine. I couldn't convince anyone to let me fly it, but it sounded
beeewtifulll. The guys working on it say its performing well, and the
production version will be even better. It took off during the air show and
from ground level performed excellently. I will have one of those in my 9A.
Mick Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Clay/Ernest/Gary - thanks for all those useful answers. I wish I had asked
before I started.
Gary I nearly went the 'dent' solution and wish I had but I have drilled a
3/4" hole exactly where the plans indicated, though it is a little lower
than needed. However the head of the bolt will not go through, though I
suspect it would if I drilled it out to the 1" specified in my plans. I have
found the stainless 'plug' which fits the 3/4" hole though I can not find a
plan which references it. (I wonder why they say cut a 1" hole - which would
work - then send a 3/4" plug? There is no revision which relates to this is
there?)
I guess I will have to go Ernest's 'plate' solution with a larger hole
unless there are 1" stainless plugs? Anyone know? (Ernest, which plan number
did you see the plug on?)
An alternate solution would be for me to cut one side off the head of the
bolt and use that. Would that be acceptable or very bad practice? The bolt
is in shear, not tension, so would only need to be torqued up firmly.
Steve
#90360
N Yorks., UK
PS What sort of place does one buy stainless sheet? Also, while I am
thinking about it, copper bar to connect the contactor to the solenoid? No
one got any copper in their FWF kit did they? This is the kit that supplies
'everything' to finish it off!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman(at)txucom.net> |
Regards
Larry Perryman
Steve,
Check with an electrician or electrical supply house for the cap. It does
not "have" to be stainless. A regular steel one would suffice.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello,
I am assembling the rudder skeleton and I think I might have goofed. The
R-710 rudder horn brace requires trimming as it comes from Vans. I did so,
using the punched holes as trim guides, but thinking the partial holes left
by cutting thru the middle would be stress problems, I filed the trimmed
edge smooth. I assembled and match drilled using the lower rib and skin as
a guide. Well, I disassembled to dimple and deburr, and found I did not
have much edge distance on the holes in the R-710 that I had just drilled.
Is there a way to remedy this, or do I need to order up a new R-710 from
Vans?
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
How much edge distance do you have? I talked with Van's about this problem
before.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV9-List: R-710 Issue
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am assembling the rudder skeleton and I think I might have goofed. The
> R-710 rudder horn brace requires trimming as it comes from Vans. I did
so,
> using the punched holes as trim guides, but thinking the partial holes
left
> by cutting thru the middle would be stress problems, I filed the trimmed
> edge smooth. I assembled and match drilled using the lower rib and skin
as
> a guide. Well, I disassembled to dimple and deburr, and found I did not
> have much edge distance on the holes in the R-710 that I had just drilled.
> Is there a way to remedy this, or do I need to order up a new R-710 from
> Vans?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VS808PP lightening holes |
I cut the holes.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage arrives while I'm at Oshkosh!
MICK MULLER wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
> The plans for the vertical stabiliser has lightening holes for the
>doubler VS808PP shown on the drawing no 6 with instructions that they are
>optional. How many of you cut out the two large holes and 5 smaller holes?
>On another matter, a mate of mine and myself flew up to Bundaberg in Nth
>Queensland OZ, home of Jabiru for an airshow this past weekend. I had a
>chance to have a close look at the RV6 in which they have installed the 8
>cylinder engine. I couldn't convince anyone to let me fly it, but it sounded
>beeewtifulll. The guys working on it say its performing well, and the
>production version will be even better. It took off during the air show and
>from ground level performed excellently. I will have one of those in my 9A.
>Mick Muller
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Moak <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS808PP lightening holes |
I debated on the lightening holes. Looked on the RV8
plans (same VS)and it is not an option. So I decided
to think about it, strenght VS weight. I forgot and a
couple of days later I went back to work and set
several rivets before I relized I had not decided to
cut them so I decided to leave it alone rather than
drill the rivets out.
ken
Wings
--- MICK MULLER wrote:
>
>
> Greetings Listers,
> The plans for the vertical stabiliser has
> lightening holes for the
> doubler VS808PP shown on the drawing no 6 with
> instructions that they are
> optional. How many of you cut out the two large
> holes and 5 smaller holes?
> On another matter, a mate of mine and myself flew up
> to Bundaberg in Nth
> Queensland OZ, home of Jabiru for an airshow this
> past weekend. I had a
> chance to have a close look at the RV6 in which they
> have installed the 8
> cylinder engine. I couldn't convince anyone to let
> me fly it, but it sounded
> beeewtifulll. The guys working on it say its
> performing well, and the
> production version will be even better. It took off
> during the air show and
> from ground level performed excellently. I will have
> one of those in my 9A.
> Mick Muller
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VS808PP lightening holes |
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
I cut them out also....
-Ted Strand-
N371N Reserved
Working on Tanks
Clearwater, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard E. Tasker [mailto:retasker(at)optonline.net]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: VS808PP lightening holes
I cut the holes.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage arrives while I'm at Oshkosh!
MICK MULLER wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
> The plans for the vertical stabiliser has lightening holes for
the
>doubler VS808PP shown on the drawing no 6 with instructions that they
are
>optional. How many of you cut out the two large holes and 5 smaller
holes?
>On another matter, a mate of mine and myself flew up to Bundaberg in
Nth
>Queensland OZ, home of Jabiru for an airshow this past weekend. I had a
>chance to have a close look at the RV6 in which they have installed the
8
>cylinder engine. I couldn't convince anyone to let me fly it, but it
sounded
>beeewtifulll. The guys working on it say its performing well, and the
>production version will be even better. It took off during the air show
and
>from ground level performed excellently. I will have one of those in my
9A.
>Mick Muller
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
The plans say to cut a 2 1/4 inch hole in the little wingtip rib adjacent to the
tip of the aileron.
What is this for?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
Pete
Mine were the same.
If you would like, I'll send some pics.
I'm went ahead and used it like this. There is plenty of bracing elsewhere.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV9-List: R-710 Issue
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am assembling the rudder skeleton and I think I might have goofed. The
> R-710 rudder horn brace requires trimming as it comes from Vans. I did
so,
> using the punched holes as trim guides, but thinking the partial holes
left
> by cutting thru the middle would be stress problems, I filed the trimmed
> edge smooth. I assembled and match drilled using the lower rib and skin
as
> a guide. Well, I disassembled to dimple and deburr, and found I did not
> have much edge distance on the holes in the R-710 that I had just drilled.
> Is there a way to remedy this, or do I need to order up a new R-710 from
> Vans?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV-Niner-Alpha <rv_niner_alpha(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS808PP lightening holes |
MULLER"
Greetings Listers,
The plans for the vertical stabiliser has lightening holes for the
doubler VS808PP shown on the drawing no 6 with instructions that they are
optional. How many of you cut out the two large holes and 5 smaller holes?
I cut out the lightening holes and lightened the airframe by a grand total of 3
- 4 ounces; took about 1.5 hours to mark and cut. If I have to do it again I
may not bother; after completing the entire project and weighing-in I could have
a different answer.
Happy RVing...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Steve, the copper buss bar comes with Van's wiring kit. You could
probably find stainless sheet at Aircraft Spruce. A lot of times we find
stuff like that at Home Depot or Lowe's.
Leland in Pleasanton
Going to place an order for the FWF this morning
"PS What sort of place does one buy stainless sheet? Also, while I am
thinking about it, copper bar to connect the contactor
to the solenoid? No
one got any copper in their FWF kit did they? This is
the kit that supplies
'everything' to finish it off!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nose leg bolt |
Actually I think thier is copper bar in the FWF kit. Thw FWF includes a
wiring harness which includes the copper bar, I think. I'll check today when I'm
at the shop and let you know.
You can get stainless sheet from A/C Spruce. Current catologue, page 67.
You fellows could just solve this problem by just building a tail dragger.
Dennis Thomas
tail dragger/tip up
finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Gary - my assumption was so that you can push a finger through to jiggle it
and the other one around! Steve.
#90360
N Yorks, UK.
Engine Mount
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Crowder
Subject: RV9-List: wing tip rib
The plans say to cut a 2 1/4 inch hole in the little wingtip rib adjacent to
the tip of the aileron.
What is this for?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
Yep, my elevators are just out of trail down also in cruise. If I had the choice
again I would raise the rear of the wing just a touch as I had to press down
the rear spar quite a bit to get the desired incidence per the plans. If I had
left it at the neutral point that the wings wanted to have I suspect I would
be in trail at cruise.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:56:44 EDT
>
>I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail, and
>the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate for
>the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
>My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along trimmed
>out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
>994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
>reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if changing
the
>angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the tail
>up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
>Thanks, Kevin
>I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
>term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top of my
>head)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
You could soften up the wing incedence a little by raising your rear spars
and drilling out the hole to a bigger bolt size, but on the other hand the
trade off would be more up elevator needed for slow flight and landing. Maybe Vans
decided it would be better to have more trim drag in cruse and less nose down
pitching in slow flight. Wont know for sure unless somebody tries it.
Kevin
> Yep, my elevators are just out of trail down also in cruise. If I had the
> choice again I would raise the rear of the wing just a touch as I had to press
> down the rear spar quite a bit to get the desired incidence per the plans.
> If I had left it at the neutral point that the wings wanted to have I suspect
> I would be in trail at cruise.
>
> - Andy
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:56:44 EDT
>
> >
> >I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail,
> and
> >the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate for
>
> >the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
> >My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along trimmed
> >out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
> >994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
> >reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if
> changing the
> >angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the
> tail
> >up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
> >Thanks, Kevin
> >I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
> >term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top of
> my
> >head)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
Why not adjust the horizontal stabilizer for neutral trail of elevators?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: flight characteristics
>
> Yep, my elevators are just out of trail down also in cruise. If I had the
choice again I would raise the rear of the wing just a touch as I had to
press down the rear spar quite a bit to get the desired incidence per the
plans. If I had left it at the neutral point that the wings wanted to have I
suspect I would be in trail at cruise.
>
> - Andy
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
> Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:56:44 EDT
>
> >
> >I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail,
and
> >the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate
for
> >the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
> >My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along
trimmed
> >out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
> >994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
> >reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if
changing the
> >angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the
tail
> >up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
> >Thanks, Kevin
> >I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
> >term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top
of my
> >head)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
That might be safer, wouldn't be changing the wing angle of attack in
relation to the thrust line of the engine that way, and also easier to put back
where
it was if it produced undesirable results. Maybe just stick a washer under
the HS forward spar where it bolts to the fuse longerons?
>
> Why not adjust the horizontal stabilizer for neutral trail of elevators?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: flight characteristics
>
>
> >
> > Yep, my elevators are just out of trail down also in cruise. If I had the
> choice again I would raise the rear of the wing just a touch as I had to
> press down the rear spar quite a bit to get the desired incidence per the
> plans. If I had left it at the neutral point that the wings wanted to have I
> suspect I would be in trail at cruise.
> >
> > - Andy
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> > From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
> > Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:56:44 EDT
> >
> > >
> > >I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail,
> and
> > >the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate
> for
> > >the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
> > >My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along
> trimmed
> > >out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
> > >994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
> > >reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if
> changing the
> > >angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the
> tail
> > >up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
> > >Thanks, Kevin
> > >I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
> > >term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top
> of my
> > >head)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
Seems to me a big point in all this is: At what loading and load distribution
are you talking about? Solo with no baggage and full fuel is quite different
from two fat boys, and a cooler of beer in the back. And, does trim drag cost
as much performance as extra baggage?
Changing the horizontal stab incidence would be pretty easy, if it didn't screw
up the tail fairing fit.
On a previous subject, the hole in the wingtip rib is a lightening hole, according
to Van's. Also for letting birds and insects inside the tip.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: flight characteristics
That might be safer, wouldn't be changing the wing angle of attack in
relation to the thrust line of the engine that way, and also easier to put back
where
it was if it produced undesirable results. Maybe just stick a washer under
the HS forward spar where it bolts to the fuse longerons?
>
> Why not adjust the horizontal stabilizer for neutral trail of elevators?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: flight characteristics
>
>
> >
> > Yep, my elevators are just out of trail down also in cruise. If I had the
> choice again I would raise the rear of the wing just a touch as I had to
> press down the rear spar quite a bit to get the desired incidence per the
> plans. If I had left it at the neutral point that the wings wanted to have
I
> suspect I would be in trail at cruise.
> >
> > - Andy
> >
> > ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> > From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
> > Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:56:44 EDT
> >
> > >
> > >I remember reading somewhere that the prototype 9A had a stock RV 6 tail,
> and
> > >the reason for making the horizontal tailplane larger was to compensate
> for
> > >the pitching moment of the new airfoil.
> > >My question to those of you flying now, when you are putting along
> trimmed
> > >out for straight and level flight, are your elevators in trail?
> > >994KS always needed a degree or so of down elevator to trim out. Are you
> > >reading this Ivo? Have you noticed this condition? I am wondering if
> changing the
> > >angle of incedence of the HS from zero to +1 degree might help keep the
> tail
> > >up at cruise. What have those of you flying noticed?
> > >Thanks, Kevin
> > >I am using this airfoil on my Colt49 "scratch" build (now I see where the
> > >term scratch build came from after I scratched all the hair off the top
> of my
> > >head)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight characteristics |
Staying within the cg limits of the airfoil is a pretty narrow little teeter
totter, keeping in mind this is a low wing where we are sitting on top of the
triangle rather than below it as with the high wings. Were splitting hairs
here but a really small change to the HS should wind up being equal to fat boy
passenger drinking all the baggage, then ejecting it plus his lunch forward
about to the CG moment of the rudder pedals, This of course is assuming he had
one
of those Great falls 10th ave Big Boy greasy gut bombs for lunch with approx.
weight of 2.5 pounds, give or take a chunk.
> Seems to me a big point in all this is: At what loading and load
> distribution are you talking about? Solo with no baggage and full fuel is quite
> different from two fat boys, and a cooler of beer in the back. And, does trim
> drag cost as much performance as extra baggage?
>
> Changing the horizontal stab incidence would be pretty easy, if it didn't
> screw up the tail fairing fit.
>
> On a previous subject, the hole in the wingtip rib is a lightening hole,
> according to Van's. Also for letting birds and insects inside the tip.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Im7shannon(at)aol.com
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: flight characteristics
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | rv-9a flight characteristics |
hi chaps: noel (currently in oshkosh with n994ks) actually spent some
time to exactly calibrate the plane for straight-and-level flight.
before then, it had a very tiny problem. (of course, the rudder needs a
very big tab, which Noel put on for me, too.)
From Noel's email:
today I taped a "wedge" on the left side of the rudder. Was not quite
enough but what a difference! I think that there is still a tendency for
the aircraft to fly sideways even with the wing leveler on. I can tell by
setting the aircraft up strait and level at 120, wing leveler on and trimmed
to hold a coarse, ball centered, the compass is just not quite level.
When the compass is leveled, ball centered, there is a tendency for the nose
to drop and the aircraft to turn.
There are several things that can cause this.
1. engine thrust angle
2. wing wash (we can't do anything but set 1 flap down a little)
When we get the aircraft in for annual we will measure the wings and see if
that is a contributing factor. The thrust angle is a trial and error by
putting washers under some the engine mounts, this is actually easier than
most think.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yaw trim - Was (rv-9a flight characteristics) |
This rudder trim subject is something that I never have understood yet... I see
all sorts of RV's with tabs and wedges on the rudder... Here's what I did.
When first flying mine with the wheel pants and leg fairings on I went from perfectly
centered to about half a ball off at cruise. I simply loosened up the main
gear leg fairing hose clamps, put just a bit of "english" on them to "steer"
in the direction of the needed correction and TaDa plane flys straight and
true with no tabs or wedges... What am I missing?
As for the roll adjustments, I adjusted the flaps & ailerons until the plane flew
level and all the surfaces were lined up. I do have a small amount of variation
between the left and right flap neutral positions.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 04:06:04 -0700
>
>
>hi chaps: noel (currently in oshkosh with n994ks) actually spent some
>time to exactly calibrate the plane for straight-and-level flight.
>before then, it had a very tiny problem. (of course, the rudder needs a
>very big tab, which Noel put on for me, too.)
>
> From Noel's email:
>
>today I taped a "wedge" on the left side of the rudder. Was not quite
>enough but what a difference! I think that there is still a tendency for
>the aircraft to fly sideways even with the wing leveler on. I can tell by
>setting the aircraft up strait and level at 120, wing leveler on and trimmed
>to hold a coarse, ball centered, the compass is just not quite level.
>
>When the compass is leveled, ball centered, there is a tendency for the nose
>to drop and the aircraft to turn.
>
>There are several things that can cause this.
>1. engine thrust angle
>2. wing wash (we can't do anything but set 1 flap down a little)
>
>When we get the aircraft in for annual we will measure the wings and see if
>that is a contributing factor. The thrust angle is a trial and error by
>putting washers under some the engine mounts, this is actually easier than
>most think.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Vent Screens |
Using Proseal, I glued aluminum window screen over my fuel vents as
suggested by Van's, but both sides have been damaged even though my
project is still in the garage. The dog's running under it may have
dislodged at least one of the screens. Does anybody have something more
durable to put over those vents? I've read that screen is needed to keep
insects from entering and plugging up the lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
I went to the store and bought a couple of those little washers that you put
in your garden hose that have the little stainless steel mesh on them. I
cut them to fit the vents and then used JB Weld to stick them on. I think
they will be pretty durable. Here is a picture...
http://www.myrv7.com/viewlog.php?rangestart=335&rangeend=335
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fuel Vent Screens
>
> Using Proseal, I glued aluminum window screen over my fuel vents as
> suggested by Van's, but both sides have been damaged even though my
> project is still in the garage. The dog's running under it may have
> dislodged at least one of the screens. Does anybody have something more
> durable to put over those vents? I've read that screen is needed to keep
> insects from entering and plugging up the lines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN KERR <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Jim Cone,
Great pix and sounds like a great way to do the trailing edges.
'nother question. describe the method you used to remove the film from
the skin without scratching the surface.
John kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 0:18 am
Subject: RV9-List: [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Cone
>
> List,RV9-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.
html
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please
> include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
Thanks for the input Phil. I'll buy some of those stainless screens this
morning. Following a suggestion in the archives, I'll also glue washers
over the top of the screens for additional protection.
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynafocal Mounts |
Help!
I lost the instructions for the Lord mounts on the 0-320. There are two
seperate rubber mounts, one is smooth, while the other is stepped. Which
one goes on the engine side?
Thanks,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal Mounts |
The one that is stepped is the hard one. It goes in compression. Which
means it is away from the engine on top and between the engine and the mount
on the bottom. There should be an extra washer for the bottom and if I
remember correctly it goes behind the bolt head and the big washer that came
with the rubber mounts should go between the engine and the hard mount on
bottom. Think of it like this. The big washer should be what applies the
compression forces to the hard rubber mount. The bottom mounts use the
longer bolts and the top mounts use the shorter bolts.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Dynafocal Mounts
>
> Help!
> I lost the instructions for the Lord mounts on the 0-320. There are two
> seperate rubber mounts, one is smooth, while the other is stepped. Which
> one goes on the engine side?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal Mounts |
It depends on the location...
One of the mounts is stiffer than the other, you put the stiffer one under the
weight of the engine. So they go on the top of the top bolts and against the engine
on the bottom.
Here's a great link with all the instructions as to how to mount an engine!
http://new.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/enginehanging.htm
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:38:26 -0600
>
>Help!
>I lost the instructions for the Lord mounts on the 0-320. There are two
>seperate rubber mounts, one is smooth, while the other is stepped. Which
>one goes on the engine side?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal Mounts |
Thanks Phil and Andy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
In the past I have seen instructions - possibly on the Parker Hannfin site -
for installing AN fittings. Can anyone give me a link back to them. Thanks,
Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
08/04/2003 04:45:32 PM,
Serialize complete at 08/04/2003 04:45:32 PM
Try folding up some safety wire so that it is about 1 inch long (multiple
folds) and push it up into the fitting. This should prevent bugs from
getting up there and still let gas pass through. That is what I did on
mine. Don't remember who told me about this one.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Voice Supervisor
ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
(281) 227-5550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
I've heard guys say they put a piece of pipe cleaner in there while it's on
the g round. The idea is that even if you forget to take them out the vent
will still work. Also, after you bump your head on the tip of the 45 degree
angle Van has us trim the bulkhead fitting to, you will probably smooth it
off somewhat. Don't ask me how I know.
Albert Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
I bought a couple of stainless steel sieves (the aerator/filters or whatever
they call it) for a kitchen sink. I cut the little strainers to size,
formed them into concave shape, and fastened them with a good dab of
proseal. Looks good - not flying yet.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Fairings
> I've heard guys say they put a piece of pipe cleaner in there while it's
on
> the g round.......Albert Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Screens |
Albert, that sounds like one of my tricks. I'm going to go grind the tip
off right now.
Leland
"Also, after you bump your head on the tip of the 45 degree
angle Van has us trim the bulkhead fitting to, you will
probably smooth it
off somewhat. Don't ask me how I know.
Albert Gardner"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
I used a 2"x4" boaed to support the wing while in the Jig. Had no oil
canning and it measured square in all directions.
Mike D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <mbrandes(at)irr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning
>
> I have my wings mounted in my frame started putting on the skins. I first
> used a single jack in the center to take the sag out of the spar but it
> doesn't seem to take it all out, especially on the root end. After
getting
> the skins on, I noticed I had some oil canning in a few sections.
>
> I'm curious for those of you who have or are working on your wings, did
you
> use more than one support to take the sag out? Do you have any oil
canning
> in your wings? I need to get a couple more jacks and some plumb bobs to
> make sure everything looks kosher.. but just curious.
>
> Matthew Brandes
> RV-9A Wings
> N523RV
> #90569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Taking the sag out of the wing spars/oil canning |
I used only one jack in the center and had no oil canning. At times, when the
skins were clecoed or riveted on, the jack carried no load. Oil canning can be
introduced by twist between the root and tip. Check that carefully with the
plumb bobs. You may also loosen the clamps on the tip end, if you have them,
to see if you have a preload causing twist.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | RV Shop Mascot - The Cat? |
Curious as to how many of us have cats as our shop mascots? :-) Dan
Checkoway, Clay R. and myself have all posted pictures of our 'shop cats' on
our websites. Any others out there? ;-)
Matthew
RV-9A Wings
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com>
Message
Curious as to how
many of us have cats as our shop mascots? :-) Dan Checkoway, Clay R.
and myself have all posted pictures of our 'shop cats' on our websites.
Any others out there? ;-)
Matthew
RV-9A Wings
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | RV Shop Mascot - The Cat? |
Count me in on the cat call. I've been through two of them during
construction and have two new ones now. I find them very handy for
wiping up oil spills. I haven't given them any exposure on my web
site other than to complain from time to time, but consider my
email address "fcs" which stands for Fat Cat Studios... Yeah, I'm
kinda fond of the furry rascals...
Gary Newsted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV Shop Mascot-The Cat |
Hi Matthew,
I have two Siamese cats. Their names are Cleco & Rivet. They are a
present to my wife. See them at http://ahyup.com I will probably work
up some tails for them.
Warren
90454 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/8/03 1:57:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Curious as to how many of us have cats as our shop mascots? :-)
Our American Eskimo dog comes out and hangs out in the hanger with me from
time to time; but since the temps started going above 95+ degrees she has not
been providing much company. Besides the heat I wonder if her reticence could
also be traced to my neighbor (a Seawind builder) who befriended her last year
(when I was gone on extended trips), and (although he denies it) I'll bet he
attempted to corrupt her with tales of the "white side", and the virtues of
plastic over aluminum!
Doug
90116 (Fuselage)
"ONCE YOU HAVE TASTED FLIGHT YOU WILL WALK THIS EARTH WITH YOUR EYES TURNED
SKYWARD. FOR THERE YOU HAVE BEEN, AND THERE YOU LONG TO RETURN"
Leonardo Da Vinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | FloScan installation location |
Has anybody worked out a good location for a Lycoming bearing RV9?
Reports in the archives detail problems with plugging if the input fuel
is not filtered, readings that depend on temperature of the unit,
whether the electric fuel pump is on, and fluctuations if the transducer
is too close to the mechanical fuel pump. There has been discussion of
whether a long straight section before the inlet is really needed.
Leland
Installing components from the firewall forward kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FloScan installation location |
Now I aint building a 9 but I mounted my flowscan transducer between the
mechanical fuel pump and the carb. The xducer sits atop a loop from the
pump to the carb. When refueling I am constantly within 1-2% of actual..
Boost pump does not effect the readings.
GZ
Leland wrote:
April 07, 2003 - August 10, 2003
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ak