RV9-Archive.digest.vol-am
October 26, 2003 - February 08, 2004
Steve:
Sam James makes a fiberglass plenum for RV's which looks pretty neat. The
following site has pictures of a neat installation in an RV-8...
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm
Doug Lomheim
90116 fuselage (13B overhaul)
"ONCE YOU HAVE TASTED FLIGHT YOU WILL WALK THIS EARTH WITH YOUR EYES TURNED
SKYWARD. FOR THERE YOU HAVE BEEN, AND THERE YOU LONG TO RETURN"
Leonardo Da Vinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: Alum. plenum |
Steve
I've also thought about an aluminum plenum. My last plane, a Mooney M20E had
one. It was very efficient and well made. My only regret is that I didn't
take a bunch of close-up photos of it before I sold it. I think I can build
anything if I have drawings or pictures, but I'm no designer!
Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Windscreen Antenna |
Listers
I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At $7
I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self adhisive
copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a very
economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my assumption
and does the installation perform sarisfactorily.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVonDolen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Scratch in Plexi |
I carelessly drug a drill bit across the top inside of my slider canopy and
left a 1 inch scratch which I can feel it with my fingernail. It's on the top,
just missing the metal strip down the center. It's not in a bad spot, not
noticable unless I make a point to look for it. My concern is that it turns into
something else.
I'm thinking I should try to buff this out. Aircraft Spruce has a whole page
of scratch removal kits but they all seem to be for restoring old, crazed
glass, not for repairing a deep scratch.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do or use?
Many thanks,
John Von Dohlen
Canopy Side Skirts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
Subject: RV9-List: Van's Windscreen Antenna
Neil,
Works fine. Had one in an RV6. Range was slightly less than the other radio
on a conventional antenna. Go for it.
Don Piermattei
192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scratch in Plexi |
I have used the Micro-Mesh system with good success. Successive grits of sandpaper
from 1500 grit to 22000 then a polish.
Ross
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
From: JVonDolen(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Scratch in Plexi
I carelessly drug a drill bit across the top inside of my slider canopy and
left a 1 inch scratch which I can feel it with my fingernail. It's on the top,
just missing the metal strip down the center. It's not in a bad spot, not
noticable unless I make a point to look for it. My concern is that it turns into
something else.
I'm thinking I should try to buff this out. Aircraft Spruce has a whole page
of scratch removal kits but they all seem to be for restoring old, crazed
glass, not for repairing a deep scratch.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do or use?
Many thanks,
John Von Dohlen
Canopy Side Skirts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scratch in Plexi |
I have also used the Micro-Mesh with good results.
Dennis Thomas
164DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Going Places in Style |
I've now made 2 extended flights in my RV-9A, one from Yuma to Boise via Ely
(4.9 hrs) and the other to SLC via Cedar City (3.7 hrs) as well as Oshkosh
this last July. The plane flies very well, stable and easy to handle. Climbs
to altitude are brisk which is nice since Yuma is low and also hot in the
summer.With over 100 hours on the plane I have been trying to get a handle
on fuel burn by flying at 2300 on my fixed pitch 150 hp Lyc but there is too
much variation probable from time to climb to various altitudes (I usually
go above 10k on long flights and even rather high on short ones to San Diego
because of the coastal range) and variations in fuel level when filling the
tanks.
All my gages are EI and work great so I bought an EI Fuel Computer and I'm
installing it where the fuel pressure gage used to be. The fuel computer has
the capability of displaying an additional function so I'll use it for
pressure also. This way I'll know exactly what the gph is. I also use
Control Visions AnyWhere Map GPS with the Navaid autopilot and just
installed the Altrak altitude hold servo. Both of these work very well and
allow for a more relaxing long flight.
My prop is redlined at 2600 and looks like top speed is 160kts but at 2300
rpm I can get airspeeds/groundspeeds of 140kts and dropping into Yuma from
10,500 Friday I was seeing 170kt groundspeed. I'm not used to starting
descents 35 or more miles out. Hey this is fun!
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS-908 attach angles? |
Hello all,
I have a question concerning the placement of these angles. Now, I know
it is positioned by the pre-punched hole in the forward spar and this hole is
aligned with the top center hole that is drilled in the angles. However, I
somehow managed to drill the hole in the angles 1/32 inch above where it should
be. Is this enough to justify making new angles? I'm concerned that the angles
may be setting too far below the spar and could adversely affect the
incidence of the horizontal once mounted to the fuse.
The very bottom surface of my angles are 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of
the HS-906. I asked Van's for a measurement, but they couldn't give me a
measurement. Only that the alignment is set with the alignment hole in the spar.
Can someone give me an idea how far the very bottom surface of the angles
extend below the bottom edge of the HS-906?
Thanks,
Bryon Crook
RV-9A 90828
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scratch in Plexi |
John......I am sure Micro Mesh is a good product, but isn't it intended for
large areas? for just one scratch, how about a dremel tool with a buffing
wheel?
Actually, I think if it is not conspicuous, I'd live with it. I doubt it would
cause any cracking, unless it was on an edge.
Gary
N719R flying
Quoting "JVonDolen(at)aol.com" :
>
> I carelessly drug a drill bit across the top inside of my slider canopy and
> left a 1 inch scratch which I can feel it with my fingernail. It's on the
> top,
> just missing the metal strip down the center. It's not in a bad spot, not
> noticable unless I make a point to look for it. My concern is that it turns
> into
> something else.
>
> I'm thinking I should try to buff this out. Aircraft Spruce has a whole page
>
> of scratch removal kits but they all seem to be for restoring old, crazed
> glass, not for repairing a deep scratch.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do or use?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> John Von Dohlen
> Canopy Side Skirts
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Copper foil antennas |
Neil Henderson wrote:
"I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At $7
I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self adhisive
copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a very
economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my assumption
and does the installation perform sarisfactorily.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK"
Neil,
Van's who worship simplicity and cheapness do not use these. I actually discussed
these with Ken Krueger recently and whilst he didn't actually come right out
and say that they weren't nearly as good as a whip he did say they could be
somewhat directional.
I've only ever seen one other RV using one. Most use a bent whip under the fuselage
and these are fairly cheap to make if you are bent(:-]) on making an an
aerial yourself.
Follow the herd for simplicity and predictable results or be a pioneer and help
show the rest of us the way ............
Good luck
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS-908 attach angles? |
Hi Bryan,
These angles do determine the angle of attack of your stabiliser. It is
relatively inexpensive at this point to build new ones and to compare that with
the grief you could suffer down the road I would build new ones. If you want to
go with the ones you have you might want to talk to Van's first and see what
they have to say. Trust me they have dealt with a lot more than this kind of
thing and are really very eager to help you.
Dennis Thomas
164DV
finishing panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Going Places in Style |
Hi Albert,
You mention you are flying a 150HP. Are constant speed or fix pitch? If fix
pitch, what pitch are you using and how satisfied with it are you?
Thanks
Dennis Thomas
164DV
finishing panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS-908 attach angles? |
Hello,
I spoke with Van's today and they suggested if I'm in any doubt as to
the accuracy of my drilled alignment holes, I should make new ones and get the
alignment holes drilled exact. Mine are only off 1/32 inch, but like you said,
better to correct it now while it's easy then to be sorry down the road.
Thanks,
Bryon Crook
RV-9A EMP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copper foil antennas |
Neil.....be aware that it makes a difference whether you are building a slider
or a tipper. The slider has a bar running down the middle of the windshield
parallel to the antenna you are asking about. NOt good for propagation, but
might make the wire less conspicuous than it would be on a tip-up with all that
clear view all around.
Is the antenna you speak of is a small wire taped in place, or a strip of
foil? A 1/4 inch wide strip of foil might not be too pretty down the middle of
your windscreen.
Gary
Quoting Rob W M Shipley :
>
> Neil Henderson wrote:
> "I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At
> $7
> I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self
> adhisive
> copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a
> very
> economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my
> assumption
> and does the installation perform sarisfactorily.
> Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-908 attach angles? |
Bryon,
With quick calculation on my TI calculator, I guestimate that with 1/32" too
low on the mounted attach angle will result in about 0.138 degrees
difference in your angle of incidence. I estimated/measured from the attach
angle to the rear of the HS to get approx. 13". A 1/32" drop over 13" run
amounts to about a 0.138 degrees decrease in your angle of incidence. I am
not an engineer, so I don't know if this matters, but I do figure that if it
does, then this will likely be the least of my worries while working my way
to a finished RV-9A. 1/32" is about the thickness of the pen marking line on
the attach angle isn't it? Hope this helps.
Comments from others builders and engineers are requested and welcome.
Mike Hoover
SC
90709 bucking wing rib/spar rivets
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: HS-908 attach angles?
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a question concerning the placement of these angles. Now, I
know
> it is positioned by the pre-punched hole in the forward spar and this hole
is
> aligned with the top center hole that is drilled in the angles. However, I
> somehow managed to drill the hole in the angles 1/32 inch above where it
should
> be. Is this enough to justify making new angles? I'm concerned that the
angles
> may be setting too far below the spar and could adversely affect the
> incidence of the horizontal once mounted to the fuse.
>
> The very bottom surface of my angles are 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of
> the HS-906. I asked Van's for a measurement, but they couldn't give me a
> measurement. Only that the alignment is set with the alignment hole in the
spar.
>
> Can someone give me an idea how far the very bottom surface of the angles
> extend below the bottom edge of the HS-906?
>
> Thanks,
> Bryon Crook
> RV-9A 90828
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Copper foil antennas |
When I ordered my avionics from Van's I asked about this antenna. The reply
was, in so many words, that it did work but was not nearly as effective as a
good whip.
Dennis Thomas
finishing panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Going Places in Style |
On my Lyc 150 HP I am using the prop Vans recommends - Sensenich 77" pitch
with the metal spinner that Sensenich sells. Initially, without the wheel
pants and leg fairings I could not get the prop up to redline (2600 rpm) in
level flight. After I put the fairings and pants on it will redline in level
flight after a few minutes but just barely. This makes it a good choice for
a cruise prop and climb performance is just fine. Top speed is 160kts but
since it also burns over 9gph I have been trying to fly around at 2300 to
see how that works. Speed is about 135kts and fuel burn is closer to 8 or
maybe even a little less. If you put a little work into the metal spinner it
will polish up and look very nice.
BTW: since the 9A sits about level on the ground as opposed to the 6A which
is somewhat tail low, getting onto the wing without the step would be rather
difficult-especially for us old guys.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS-908 attach angles? |
Van's has confirmed this is NO problem. Being that the horizontal is attached
to the fuse with shims, you would simply adjust the thickness of your shims
as needed.
Looks like I was concerned over nothing.
Thanks to all that responded.
Bryon Crook
RV-9A EMP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Baffles & Plenum |
Thanks for all the pointers on this. I think I will stick with the standard
approach. Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Joe - I spoke to the guy with the camlocks today. He said the upper to lower
cowl join each side had 9 camlocks. He guessed the spacing was 4 or 5
inches, but 9 evenly spaced. The vertical seams have similar spacing. He did
say reinforce the edges with a minimum of two layers of glass.
Regards, Steve
#90360
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe Wiza
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Cowl fitting
Steve, how much space between the camlocks,
Joe RV9A
writes:
>
>
> Joe, I have a friend with a -6 with Camlocks in the UK. He is
> pleased with
> it, though I gather he has some 'bulging' in flight between the
> Camlocks. He
> swears by them. I am using hinges. Anything you want me to ask him?
> Steve.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1/4" - 28 Threaded Shank Drill Bits / Scotch-Brite Wheels - |
40% SAVINGS
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
FOR YOUR BUILDING NEEDS:
1) 1/4"-28 THREADED SHANK DRILL BITS, Size #40
NEW
* Used with Angle Air Drills and Flexible
Drill Attachments, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 2 1/8" Long, 135 Degree Split Point, High
Speed Steel
* YOUR PRICE $1.50 each (Avery Part #4140,
$2.70 each)
2) NAS907 Type B Drill Bits, Size #30 NEW
* High Speed, Nitride Oxide coated for
enhanced abrasion resistance
* Recommended for Stainless Steel, hard
Steel, Titanium, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 135 degree Split Point
* 2 3/4" long
* YOUR PRICE $1.00 each
3) DEBURRING WHEEL (aka Scotch Brite Wheel)
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* Used to Radius, Deburr & Smooth edges on
Aluminum parts using a Die Grinder, etc.
* 7A Medium Grit, Aluminum Oxide
(The "ONE" recommended by Van's Aircraft)
* 1" dia x 1" high with 3/16" hole for
Mandrel (Mandrel not supplied)
* YOUR PRICE $3.25 each (Avery Part #3700,
$5.00 each)
Minimum Order $10.00 POSTAGE INCLUDED
Indicate interest OFF LINE by E-Mail. Supplies
Limited
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! |
Hi Listers!
A number of Listers have been asking for some Matronics Email List online
chat and NOW ITS HERE! Over the last couple of days I've set up a nifty
web-based Chat site here on the Matronics systems. No special programs to
download; all you need is a late model web browser like Internet Explorer
or Netscape with a java plugin. I would recommend downloading the latest
Java plugin if you experience any problems getting the page to come
up. Here's a link to the Sun Java download
website. http://java.com/en/index.jsp Look for the green box with the
yellow arrow in the upper right corner. Before you bother, though, just
try you browser because it'll probably just work.
Each Email List on Matronics has its own "Room" and all rooms can easily be
accessed from the same client. In the Email List URL Trailer at the bottom
of each List message, you'll find the Link to this List's specific Chat
Room. Just click on the Link, and then type in your name or email address
in the User Name box. Try to use a name or email address that the other
Listers know you by. You'll find me lurking around the various List chat
rooms as "MattDralle".
There's a couple of nifty features I'll explain right off. On the main
Chat Window page after you login, you'll see a little icon with a Hammer
and a Screwdriver. This is the Control Panel window. Once the Control
Panel comes up, click on the "Settings" tab. Here you'll find, among other
things, three check boxes to enable sound. Click all three and you'll be
treated to a sound whenever someone enters or leaves the Room, or when
someone sends a message.
The other cool button is the one that has four little arrows pointing to
each of the four corners of the button. This will rip the main Chat window
from the web page and allow you to resize and move it anyway you'd like.
Let's have some fun and get to know one another better using this awesome
new Chat Room! To get started, just click the URL Link below for this
List's specific Chat Room!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
PS - I'm working on a web link interface to the chat logfiles. Coming soon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2003 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Email Forums sponsored here. Your Contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
The traffic on the Lists continues to grow and the numbers are nothing
short of impressive! Here are some statistics that show how much traffic
the Lists generated this year alone:
* 11/01/2002 - 10/31/2003
o Web server hits: 10,446,780 (870,565/mo)
o Incoming Email Posts: 58,918 (4,909/mo)
List-related upgrades this year have been plentiful, and List performance
has substantially improved as a result. Upgrades and enhancements this
year have included:
* Internet Connection upgrade to a full, commercial-grade T1 Line!
* New Web Server platform - Dual 3Ghz Xeon with 2Gb Ram and U320 SCSI!
* Upgrade of Email Server platform - Dual 1.7 Ghz Xeon with 1Gb Ram!
* All new SPAM Filtering Appliance - filters about 98% of the unwanted SPAM!
* All new, web-base List Chat Room society!
As you can well imagine, this year's upgrades translate into a fair amount
of cash outlay on my part and this annual List Fund Raiser is the sole
means by which I fund these upgrades. Unlike most of the other "list
servers" on the Web these days, I have a strict
*no-commercial-advertisement policy* on the Matronics Lists and associated
List web sites. I was again approached by a number of vendors recently
with advertising deals that have been very tempting. My commitment to
providing a grass-roots, non-commercial environment prevailed,
however! Commercialism on the Internet seems to be increasing
exponentially every year, with more and more SPAM and pop up ads, not to
mention the ever increasing Virus attacks.
My goal with the Matronics List Service is to provide all members
with a commercial-free, virus-free, and high-performance system
with which the may share information, ideas, and camaraderie.
The best news this year is that, with the gracious help of Andy Gold and
The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I have been able
to significantly expand the lineup of fantastic Gift offers to support the
List Fund Raiser! In all, there are eight awesome free gifts this year
ranging from List Archive CD's to Flight Computers with qualifying
Contribution levels. Those great Jeppesen Flight Bags that were so popular
last year are even back! A special thanks goes out to Andy Gold again this
year for his very kind and generous support of the Lists. Thanks Andy, for
these great incentives!!
Over the next month I'll be posting a few reminder messages about the List
Fund Raiser, and I ask for your patience and understanding during the
process. Remember that the Lists are *completely* funded through the
generous Contributions of its members. That's it! There's no support from
a bloated advertising budget or deep pockets somewhere. Its all made
possible through YOUR thoughtful and generous support!
To make your List Contribution using a Visa or MasterCard, PalPal, or with
a personal check, please go to the URL link below. Here you can find
additional details on this year's great free Gifts as well as information
on the various methods of payment. Contributions in the $20, $30, $50,
$75, and $100 range are common. The Contribution web page is kind of long
this year with the details of each of the gifts, so please scroll all the
way down!
SSL Secure Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
I would like to thank everyone who supports the Lists this year! Your
Contributions truly make it all possible!!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Here is some information on an RV9A that "landed long" on October 19th.
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 786HL Make/Model: EXP Description: VANS RV-9A
Date: 10/19/2003 Time: 1440
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Serious Mid Air: N
Missing: N
Damage: Substantial
LOCATION
City: DESHLER State: OH Country: US
DESCRIPTION
AIRCRAFT LANDED LONG AND WENT OFF THE RUNWAY, THEN NOSE OVER, DESILER,
OH
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
# Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 1 Min: 0
Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 1 Min: 0
Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
Unk:
WEATHER: METAR FDY 191536Z AUTO 03011KT 10SM CLR 10/07 A3010
OTHER DATA
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Landing Operation: General
Aviation
Departed: UNK Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: DESHLER, OH Flt Plan: UNK Wx
Briefing: U
Last Radio Cont: UNK
Last Clearance: UNK
FAA FSDO: CLEVELAND, OH (GL25) Entry date: 10/20/2003
Check for printing
N-number : N786HL
Aircraft Serial Number : 90466
Aircraft Manufacturer : PREISS HEINRICH K
Model : VANS RV-9A
Engine Manufacturer : SUBARU
Model : ALL MDLS A/B
Aircraft Year : 2002
Owner Name : PREISS HEINRICH K
Owner Address : 3786 COUNTY ROAD 17
BRYAN, OH, 43506-9786
Type of Owner : Individual
Registration Date : 02-Oct-2002
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RVx-List vs. RV-List Subscriptions |
Dear RV-x Listers,
I was chatting with a nice fellow on the new Matronics RV6-List Chatroom
yesterday ( http://www.matronics.com/chat ), and he ask me an interesting
question. Basically, what he was saying was that he had been subscribed to
the RV-List back a few years ago and he used to get a lot of messages each
day. Recently, he resubscribed and now only gets a few messages. "What
Happened?", he wanted to know...
Long story short, originally he had subscribed to the non-model specific
List, the "RV-List(at)matronics.com". When he resubscribed, he just
subscribed to the model-specific List, the "RV6-List(at)matronics.com". Since
the model-specific Lists receive far less traffic than the main RV-List,
the mystery of his reduced content was solved. He's now subscribed to the
Main RV-List in addition to the RV6-List and is happily receiving a few
more messages each day.
I realize that many of you have made a conscious decision to only subscribe
to one or more of the model-specific Lists. This conversation did make me
wonder, though, just how many people have subscribed to the model-specific
Lists, not knowing that a lot of the RV dialog is really on the main
RV-List...?
Anyway, I thought I'd post a little message today and spread the word. I
did some number crunching on the RVx-Lists vs. RV-List subscriptions and
found that there are 819 unique people subscribed to one or more
model-specific RVx-Lists but that are NOT subscribed to the general
RV-List! That's a lot of people missing out on a main flow of RV information.
I've setup a little web page where you can check to see if you're currently
subscribed to the RV-List and easily subscribe if you're not!
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/Am-I-Subscribed.html
The RV-List is where all the action is! Subscribe today! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone have any tricks ways to bend the canopy bow to make it conform to the
roll bar? The bend radius is not close at all. I've tried a few of my own
with little success.
Thanks, Bob Devaney
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator skin to spar riveting |
| From: | Rick Smith <ricks3(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/03/2003 07:13:21
Take a look at the photos on the Yahoo RV-9 list, just posted one of a very
simple bucking bar that makes riveting all of the skin to spar rivets a
snap. Its like a double headed hammer with one head made of wood that
ensures the other head remains oriented properly. The photo is in the Rick
Smiths' photos.
It is made of a piece of 1 x 2 steel channel filled with lead and a piece
of maybe 3/8 inch tubing. Thats just what was laying around when I needed
it. It worked so well that after doing the first elevator I used it to
rivet all of the skin to spar rivets, top and bottom on the second one
while the elevator was completely clecoed together. It seemed too risky to
open the skin enough to use a regular bar.
It took about an hour to make, but had it taken twice that long I feel it
would have been well worth it. No pop rivets (I hate em) and no dents on
the leading edges.
The key is to make the heads small enough to slip past the weldment.
Another local builder has it now but if you want to wait till he finishes I
could ship it out in a mailing tube.
Regards,
Rick Smith
Austin Tx
# 90714 QB going together
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Accident at Deshler |
from their website: Deshler Municipal Landing Strip Airport serves
Deshler and Wood County <http://www.ohwy.com/oh/y/y39173.htm> and is
owned by Village Of Deshler. The airport has more than one runway. The
longest is a turf runway extending 2480 feet. The facility is at an
elevation of 706 feet at a distance of about 2 miles from Deshler.
naturally, running off the end of a runway is always pilot error. a
go-around is cheap insurance. it is true, however, that RV-9As are
"floaters"---they are very slippery and like to fly. Usually, this is
extra safe, as it means you can make airports when an engine quits.
They also climb very easily, so the pilot could have easily taken off
again if there were no obstacles right at the end of the runway. so,
don't be discouraged building an RV-9A (unless you want to buy mine ;-) ).
/iaw
http://welch.som.yale.edu/n994ks/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Well Bob,
I hate to be the one to tell you, but there is no easy way to
make them match. The "trick" is simply put one side of the
bow on the ground (on top of something to protect the paint)
and use your weight and push, pull, bend, lean-into, make it
fit. You bend it a bit, then put it back on the plane. Take it off
and bend some more, back to the plane. Takes a few days of
fussing with it.
You have to match up the front more or less (small differences
can be covered by the fiberglass joint strip). You also have to
worry about the rear of the frame being the right shape and
inside the fuselage outlines.
Keep at it and it will come together for you, just like the rest
of us that have gone before you!
- Andy Karmy
Seattle Wa (Sanding Glass again!)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: Bobdeva(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:08:01 EST
>
>Anyone have any tricks ways to bend the canopy bow to
make it conform to the
>roll bar? The bend radius is not close at all. I've tried a few
of my own
>with little success.
>
>Thanks, Bob Devaney
>
>
>_-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Its amazing how one that wasn't in the aircraft can tell what happened, always
pilot error for running off the end of a runway. I don't really think that this
is the place to throw stones at someone's accident, leave that for the NTSB.
This should be for building not accident investigation.
Boyd Butler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pitner, Timothy" <TPitner(at)flowcorp.com> |
Ok Andy, I'll bite... why are you sanding glass again?
TIM PITNER
Technical Service
Flow International Corporation | www.flowcorp.com
23500 64th Ave. S. | Kent, WA 98032 | USA
tel: 253.813.3318 | fax: 253.813.3282 | tpitner(at)flowcorp.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Karmy [mailto:andy(at)karmy.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy bow
Well Bob,
I hate to be the one to tell you, but there is no easy way to
make them match. The "trick" is simply put one side of the
bow on the ground (on top of something to protect the paint)
and use your weight and push, pull, bend, lean-into, make it
fit. You bend it a bit, then put it back on the plane. Take it off
and bend some more, back to the plane. Takes a few days of
fussing with it.
You have to match up the front more or less (small differences
can be covered by the fiberglass joint strip). You also have to
worry about the rear of the frame being the right shape and
inside the fuselage outlines.
Keep at it and it will come together for you, just like the rest
of us that have gone before you!
- Andy Karmy
Seattle Wa (Sanding Glass again!)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: Bobdeva(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:08:01 EST
>
>Anyone have any tricks ways to bend the canopy bow to
make it conform to the
>roll bar? The bend radius is not close at all. I've tried a few
of my own
>with little success.
>
>Thanks, Bob Devaney
>
>
>_-
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==================================
Contributions
other
>_-
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==================================
>_-
======================================
==================================
subscription
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rv9-list
rv9-list
report
>_-
======================================
==================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
It's painting time. I finally have a plan after flying 150 hours in
9 months.
I have removed all of the fiberglass parts and returned them to
the garage rendering my lovely RV9A un-flyable for now...
The plan is to paint the glass with AFS paint, polish the metal
and possibly do some graphics on the sides.
- Andy
>
>Ok Andy, I'll bite... why are you sanding glass again?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overshooting |
I agree with you, Boyd. We shouldn't be saying what happened if we weren't
there. I don't know anything about the accident, but it brings up a comment:
If you land a 9 without flaps, be prepared to hold the nose very high in ground
effect, and sail a lot further down the runway than you expect. You can easily
compound the problem by coming over the fence too fast.....like anything above
70 mph. Full flaps and slow, and it still may take you a bit to get used to
how the 9er wants to keep flying.
And, man, is it fun!
Gary
Quoting Boyd Butler :
>
> Its amazing how one that wasn't in the aircraft can tell what happened,
> always pilot error for running off the end of a
runway. .......................
> .........etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
I too try the no-flap landings now and then just to ensure that
I can do them when needed. What is hard for me to get used
to is that on base you have the nose so high to get it slowed
to 70 in the first place that you can't hardly see the runway
anymore. If you go any faster there is no descent rate...
Slips work nice in this situation also.
- Andy (145hrs of Smiles and fun flying)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: rv9(at)3rivers.net
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:15:02 -0700
>
>
>I agree with you, Boyd. We shouldn't be saying what
happened if we weren't
>there. I don't know anything about the accident, but it
brings up a comment:
>
>If you land a 9 without flaps, be prepared to hold the nose
very high in ground
>effect, and sail a lot further down the runway than you
expect. You can easily
>compound the problem by coming over the fence too
fast.....like anything above
>70 mph. Full flaps and slow, and it still may take you a bit to
get used to
>how the 9er wants to keep flying.
>
>And, man, is it fun!
>
>Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
"RV-9 Matronics List"
| Subject: | Heated Pitot with Static |
Are there any sources to get an AN5814-1 12v Heated Pitot other than Aircraft Spruce?
It is criminally expensive at $495 ( I have a 2001-2002 Spruce catalog
that shows it for $208 - an amazing 150% increase in two years!!!). It would
be nice to have an alternate source unless they're all made by the same company.
Doug Fischer
90706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Barry Bruns
Subject: Wing jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/BBruns6831@aol.com.11.03.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
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following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | fuselage assembly sequence |
A little help will be appreciated. Have just reached the point in the manual of
removing the forward side skins for dimpling and priming. In considering the
process, there seems to be no quidance on the order of re-assembly and assembly
of the side skins, bottoms skins, etc.
the manual suggests during the final prep of the tail cone "not" to dimple the
forward two rows of holes on the rear bottom skin. How do you get to them to
dimple now?
where did I go wrong
John Kerr
Utah
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuselage assembly sequence |
John....without lookin it up, and taking my poor memory into consideration, is
this where the front belly skin overlaps the rear belly skin? Is it possible
that the reason they tell you not to dimple the rear skin is that they intend
to have you machine countersink the front skin on top of it?
Gary
Quoting "kerrjohna(at)comcast.net" :
>
> A little help will be appreciated. Have just reached the point in the manual
> of removing the forward side skins for dimpling and priming. In considering
> the process, there seems to be no quidance on the order of re-assembly and
> assembly of the side skins, bottoms skins, etc.
>
> the manual suggests during the final prep of the tail cone "not" to dimple
> the forward two rows of holes on the rear bottom skin. How do you get to
> them to dimple now?
>
> where did I go wrong
>
> John Kerr
> Utah
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Return Fuel Lines |
| From: | "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> |
Hello,
I am planning to put in return fuel lines in case my engine supports
fuel injection. I have seen that some people have place the return line
in the tank access plate, but I would prefer to have it mounted directly
to the rib. I was wondering if any of you have done this, and if you
can give me a good spot for locating it? One of my tanks is already
sealed, so I will need to work through the access plate for it, but the
second tank is open. I figure the open tank will allow me to get my
procedure (and measurements) correct.
Thanks in advance
-Ted Strand-
N371N Reserved
Clearwater, FL
Working on Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
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with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
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Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
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Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I purchased a thirty five amp alternator from Van for my RV-9A. It
lasted sixteen hours before failing. I called Tom Green and he sent me
a replacement alternator and I returned the failed alternator. The
replacement alternator lasted seven tenths of an hour. I took the
alternator to a repair shop. They found three bolts holding the
alternator together were hand tight only. One of the diodes had become
unsoldered. The connection was resolder and I have used this alternator
about thirty hours. I wrote Tom Green about this episode and asked for
a labor refund, but he never acknowledged.
My feelings are that I got two junk rebuilt alternators.
Jim Render
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James R. Render" <jimpattr(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I installed one of the locks that I purchased from Van on my sliding
canopy. It worked fine for a few times and then became jammed. I had
to have the lock picked to get my canopy open. I no longer use the lock.
Jim Render
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
11/05/2003 03:37:19 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 03:37:19 PM
Ted,
Look a the nose rib. There is a 3/8 inch forming hole about 3 inched back
from the front and about 2 inches up from the bottom. I used that hole to
run the return line at least back into the next fuel bay to allow the hot
fuel to mix with the cool fuel in the tank. Drill a new hole in the end
rib about in line with the hole and install the bulkhead fitting and run
your return line back into the tank. Put a snap bushing in the hole to
cushion the line and go for it. On the tank you are working on, you can
run it back to the other end of the tank to give more time to mix with the
cooler fuel but one bay will work also. At least it does with my RV-9A and
Eggenfellner Subaru setup that used a 5/16 return line. If you need a 3/8
return line, you may need to open the holes up for the larger snap
bushings.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Voice Supervisor
ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
(281) 227-5550
"Ted Strand"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/04/2003 10:39 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
Hello,
I am planning to put in return fuel lines in case my engine supports
fuel injection. I have seen that some people have place the return line
in the tank access plate, but I would prefer to have it mounted directly
to the rib. I was wondering if any of you have done this, and if you
can give me a good spot for locating it? One of my tanks is already
sealed, so I will need to work through the access plate for it, but the
second tank is open. I figure the open tank will allow me to get my
procedure (and measurements) correct.
Thanks in advance
-Ted Strand-
N371N Reserved
Clearwater, FL
Working on Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
I'll second that. It takes a gorrilla foot to get a good slip out of the
9. I just assume this is due to that big shark fin rudder and tiny amount
of leverage created by the relatively short control horn.
Gary N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
| From: | Victor Cordero <vcordero(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
When you run the return fuel Lines through the wing tanks, are the snap bushings
affected by the fuel in any why?? Will they last forever inside the fuel tanks?
thx,
Victor Cordero
RV9A, Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
11/05/2003 05:21:03 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 05:21:03 PM
Victor,
Vans calls fro them on the capacitance sender installation. I have not
seen any deterioration so far.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
Victor Cordero
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/05/2003 09:45 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
Guys,
When you run the return fuel Lines through the wing tanks, are the snap
bushings affected by the fuel in any why?? Will they last forever inside
the fuel tanks?
thx,
Victor Cordero
RV9A, Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Changes in Drawing 29 |
I guess I have an old set of plans. My copy of Drawing 29 does not show
how to attach the lap belts. A newer plan version shows cartoons in zone
G7 and D10 for fabricating a spacer/bushing of AT6-058x5/16 hard tubing
to fit between the AN4 bolts and the 5/16" hole in the seat belts. Does
anybody's plans show attachment of the shoulder harnesses? I assume the
mounting is similar but would like to be sure.
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
I agree also, a Super cub it ain't! I never said it was easy, just
that it will slip. Seems like I used to hear that it wouldn't from
some of the early reports.
With the size of the rudder Imagine if the pressures were
lighter. You're humming along in the yellow arc cruise hit the
rudder and peel your face off the canopy! :)
Makes me want to go out and do some forward slip to landing
aproaches!
- Andy
>
>
>Hi, Andy. Interesting you mention that slips work well in the
9. This is the
>only point I have differed with you on. I felt like the 9 didn't
slip as well
>as what I've been used to......mostly the Cygnet, RV4, and my
"almost an
>Ultralight" N3 Pup. Maybe it is just what a person is used to.
I felt the 9
>took LOTS of rudder pressure to slip, and that it wasn't all
that effective in
>giving a good sink rate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | deburring skin edges |
Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
damage.
A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
wondering if I should even bother...?
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
Paul,
After I deburred the edges with the debur tool, I run down the edge with a
2" scotchbrite disk on a die grinder. The disk eventually got a groove in it
so I run the edge in the groove. Smooths them out pretty good. Hope this
helps.
Regards,
Mike
SC
90709 riveting wing ribs to spars
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: deburring skin edges
>
> Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
> have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
> electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
> some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
> pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
> bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
> rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
> damage.
>
> A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> wondering if I should even bother...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
Ted
I installed 3/8 straight fuel return line fittings in the upper rear corner
of the inboard fuel tank ribs which Van's said would be a good location.
Unfortunately, when I started to assemble the fuselage, I realized that the
fitting was right in line with the upper forward bar of the center section
spar. I am now replacing the straight fittings with 45 degree angled
fittings that are turned down 45 to 50 degrees from the horizontal. If you
use this location, you will also need to carefully consider where the 3/8
line will enter the fuselage as the feed and vent line holes are already
located by pre punched pilot holes in the F-9101 Gear Attach Web. There is
far less area to work with on the 9A than there is on the 6A or 7A. I am
using the Andair 3/8 duplex valve and I did not extend the return line
beyond the end rib (too late now).
Dean Van Winkle
Fuselage/Finish
13B NA Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am planning to put in return fuel lines in case my engine supports
> fuel injection. I have seen that some people have place the return line
> in the tank access plate, but I would prefer to have it mounted directly
> to the rib. I was wondering if any of you have done this, and if you
> can give me a good spot for locating it? One of my tanks is already
> sealed, so I will need to work through the access plate for it, but the
> second tank is open. I figure the open tank will allow me to get my
> procedure (and measurements) correct.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> -Ted Strand-
> N371N Reserved
> Clearwater, FL
> Working on Tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Dynon pressure setting |
For those of you already flying with a Dynon. How do you change the pressure
setting and how practical is it?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
UK
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuselage assembly sequence |
John
You will recall that the aft line of holes in the bottom tailcone skin to
center fuselage joint was drilled from the center fuselage pattern and the
tailcone/center fuselage/F-706 bulkhead joint should have been match drilled
at the same time. As much as EVERYONE hates to do it, the center fuselage
and tailcone must now be pulled back apart for the deburring and dimpling of
the parts. The F-706 bulkhead assembly is loose, so the skins as well as the
bulkhead can readily be dimpled with your dimpler/rivet squeezer. Many
others have stated that the guidance is lacking in the fuselage area. Good
luck. One other note, I found that the larger bottom skin area in the
forward tailcone bay had a tendency to oilcan, so I installed a piece of
leftover J-stringer through the middle of the area between the F-706 and
F707 bulkheads while I had easy access.
Dean Van Winkle
Fuselage/Finish
90095
----- Original Message -----
From: <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: fuselage assembly sequence
>
> A little help will be appreciated. Have just reached the point in the
manual of removing the forward side skins for dimpling and priming. In
considering the process, there seems to be no quidance on the order of
re-assembly and assembly of the side skins, bottoms skins, etc.
>
> the manual suggests during the final prep of the tail cone "not" to dimple
the forward two rows of holes on the rear bottom skin. How do you get to
them to dimple now?
>
> where did I go wrong
>
> John Kerr
> Utah
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Behrent <kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Floats or Capacitance? |
It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
apart to fix/replace.
I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
So, what's the consensus out there?
Kevin Behrent
90126 - Working on wings
kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
Puyallup, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
A capacitance system has no moving parts - just a couple sheets of
aluminum and a few screws and wires. If you build it properly then it
should last as long as the plane.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
Kevin Behrent wrote:
>
>It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
>sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
>looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
>
>I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
>into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
>wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
>apart to fix/replace.
>
>I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
>cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
>
>So, what's the consensus out there?
>
>Kevin Behrent
>90126 - Working on wings
>kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
>Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
>Puyallup, WA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
Paul,
I run the skin edges against my bench-grinder-mounted Scotchbrite wheel,
holding the skin almost parallel to the direction of rotation. This makes
it easier to control. I say "almost parallel" because if it is slightly
diagonal it doesn't put a groove in the wheel. No problem so far.
Mine, however, is the voice of INexperience, as I have only done the HS &
VS so far, so take my suggestion with a grain of salt.
Richard Scott
Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
I usually just run a quick few swipes with a fine emery cloth over the
edges. I find this easier than a wheel and smoother than a deburring tool.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
Quick build fuselage now in basement
Piper Cherokee N5320W
1974 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: deburring skin edges
>
> Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
> have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
> electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
> some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
> pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
> bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
> rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
> damage.
>
> A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> wondering if I should even bother...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
A fine sponge sanding block from Harbor Freight seems to help.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46753
Warren
924WH (reserved)
http://ahyup.com
A Confession
Once in a while,
I'm standing here, doing something.
And I think,
"What in the world am I doing here?"
It's a big surprise.
Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld
May 16, 2001, interview with the New York Times
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
Kevin......Just my opinion. I have no experience with the capacitive senders.
I like the float type Van's supplies. When I first filled my tanks before
flying, we put in 2 1/2, 5, and 10 gallons in each side. The gauges said 2/12,
5, and 10 1/2. I did not find them hard to install or adjust. They are
inexpensive and easily removed if it were ever necessary. I have never heard
of them wearing out or failing.
I don't think you can use Van's inexpensive gauges with the capacitive type,
right?
One thing to be aware of: regardless of sender type, with this tank
configuration, anytime the ball is off center, the readings are inaccurate.
You should see how one tank goes up and the other down when you taxi around a
corner!
Gary
Quoting Kevin Behrent :
>
>
> It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
> sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
> looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
>
> I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
> into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
> wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
> apart to fix/replace.
>
> I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
> cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
>
> So, what's the consensus out there?
>
> Kevin Behrent
> 90126 - Working on wings
> kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
> Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
> Puyallup, WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Behrent <kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
I haven't decided whether I want individual gauges or a engine monitoring system.
I'm leaning towards a engine monitoring system because I have one in my Mooney
(EDM-800 with all the options) and I like it.
I'm like the ACS 2002 and so I called the company this morning and ask them what
they thought. This was what they said concerning their system:
1. ACS supports Van's float or capacitance senders.
2. If you choose capacitance, you must purchase a converter for each sending unit
at $115 ea. OUCH!
3. For accuracy, floats will incorrectly indicate full tanks until you burn down
to 2/3 full at which the ACS will finally recognize the change and correctly
display the quantity level. It should be fairly accurate from there. Capacitance
should be pretty accurate at all levels except if there is water present in the
fuel in which it will incorrectly read "full" tanks no mater what fuel level.
I'm just starting to investigate other engine monitoring solutions to see what
they require. I may just end up installing both capacitance and later floats if
needed.
Richard Tasker wrote:
>
> A capacitance system has no moving parts - just a couple sheets of
> aluminum and a few screws and wires. If you build it properly then it
> should last as long as the plane.
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Fuselage
>
> Kevin Behrent wrote:
>
> >
> >It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
> >sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
> >looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
> >
> >I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
> >into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
> >wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
> >apart to fix/replace.
> >
> >I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
> >cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
> >
> >So, what's the consensus out there?
> >
> >Kevin Behrent
> >90126 - Working on wings
> >kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
> >Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
> >Puyallup, WA
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--
Kevin Behrent
Cascadia Software, Inc.
3600 Port of Tacoma Road
Suite 210
Tacoma, WA 98424
Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
Fax: (253) 896-3680
kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Behrent <kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
I believe that Van's fuel level gauge uses floats, howver they do sell a
capacitance sender that can be used with EI and the ACS 2002.
I hear that the capacitance sender uses two plates located inboard and outboard
and
a comparison is made between the them. Not sure if this is the case, but what I've
heard from others.
Anybody out there using a engine monitor other than the ACS 2002 or VM1000? What
kind of fuel sender is being used?
rv9(at)3rivers.net wrote:
>
> Kevin......Just my opinion. I have no experience with the capacitive senders.
> I like the float type Van's supplies. When I first filled my tanks before
> flying, we put in 2 1/2, 5, and 10 gallons in each side. The gauges said 2/12,
> 5, and 10 1/2. I did not find them hard to install or adjust. They are
> inexpensive and easily removed if it were ever necessary. I have never heard
> of them wearing out or failing.
>
> I don't think you can use Van's inexpensive gauges with the capacitive type,
> right?
>
> One thing to be aware of: regardless of sender type, with this tank
> configuration, anytime the ball is off center, the readings are inaccurate.
> You should see how one tank goes up and the other down when you taxi around a
> corner!
>
> Gary
>
> Quoting Kevin Behrent :
>
> >
> >
> > It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
> > sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
> > looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
> >
> > I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
> > into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
> > wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
> > apart to fix/replace.
> >
> > I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
> > cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
> >
> > So, what's the consensus out there?
> >
> > Kevin Behrent
> > 90126 - Working on wings
> > kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
> > Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
> > Puyallup, WA
> >
>
--
Kevin Behrent
Cascadia Software, Inc.
3600 Port of Tacoma Road
Suite 210
Tacoma, WA 98424
Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
Fax: (253) 896-3680
kbehrent(at)cascadiasoftware.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
> A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> wondering if I should even bother...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
Paul,
I've used a gray roloc Scotch Brite disc in my die grinder and it works OK.
But most of the time I use 240 grit emery cloth like Curt mentioned or I rub
a maroon Scotch Brite pad along the edge. I prefer any of these methods to
using a wheel.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
I have been following this thread with interest. There seems to be 2 schools
of thought on the subject and of course they are at right angles to each
other.
Some folks look at it as no big deal, just once over lightly with any thing
to take the burr off and forget it.
The side says, it needs to be as smooth as a baby's butt and do what ever you
need to do to make it that way.
Personnaly I decided to err on the conservative side. All small parts mostly
got done a bench or die grinder with a 3M wheel. I don't like using power
tools on large pieces or on sheet stock. It is too easy for the wheel to dig in
and spoil the the nice staight edge.
I'm a first time builder and new to the proccess and on limited budget. With
all that in mind I decided I would sleep better not having to think about it.
Dennis Thomas
N164DV
instruments, wiring and avionics done.
hanging the wings on Saturday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
One of the engine monitoers available from Van's will read capacative or
float type gages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smbluthing(at)volexpress.com |
| Subject: | deburring skin edges |
here is my 2 cents worth....ac 43.13-1a page 126 #250 b. do not
use steel wool emery cloth steel wire brushed or severe abrasive
materials because particles will become imbedded in the soft material
and cause corrosion.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Over the fence at 70 ........ |
I'm still building and have no opportunity to land a 9 yet but for a plane with
a stall in the mid 40s and reportedly very stable handling 70 sounds rather high.
I used 60 - 65 in the Cherokees and 152s and would not expect to use higher
speeds in a slipperier (?) plane with a similar stall speed.
Is anyone using slower speeds?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Over the fence at 70 ........ |
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob W M Shipley <rob(at)robsglass.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Over the fence at 70 ........
I Have 135 hr,s on my 9-A and 60 M.P.H. is a good speed over the fence.any faster
and the flare,roll out is to long.194BN
I'm still building and have no opportunity to land a 9 yet but for a plane with
a stall in the mid 40s and reportedly very stable handling 70 sounds rather high.
I used 60 - 65 in the Cherokees and 152s and would not expect to use higher
speeds in a slipperier (?) plane with a similar stall speed.
Is anyone using slower speeds?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Over the fence at 70 ........ |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
11/07/2003 03:31:52 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/07/2003 03:31:52 PM
Rob,
If you are comfortable with those speeds then use them. It will shorten
your roll. My only problem is getting it down that slow.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
"Rob W M Shipley"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/06/2003 07:13 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: "RV9-List Digest Server"
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Over the fence at 70 ........
I'm still building and have no opportunity to land a 9 yet but for a plane
with a stall in the mid 40s and reportedly very stable handling 70 sounds
rather high. I used 60 - 65 in the Cherokees and 152s and would not
expect to use higher speeds in a slipperier (?) plane with a similar stall
speed.
Is anyone using slower speeds?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
Thanks for the replies. After hearing that most people are spending
time on this I decided to do likewise even though the manual isn't
crystal-clear on whether the skins need lots of smoothing.
My favorite for portable smoothing (assuming that the bench grinder is
out due to the size and awkwardness of the skins) is the *red*
scotchbrite roloc disc in the die grinder. The gray and green ones
are for polishing as far as I know. I gave it a try on the rudder skin
and it worked pretty well. You need to brace the skin near the wheel
else the skin can kick up, which is more scary than damaging.
Paul
>
> > A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> > wondering if I should even bother...?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
> >
> Paul,
>
> I've used a gray roloc Scotch Brite disc in my die grinder and it works OK.
> But most of the time I use 240 grit emery cloth like Curt mentioned or I rub
> a maroon Scotch Brite pad along the edge. I prefer any of these methods to
> using a wheel.
>
> Mark Schrimmer
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pressure setting |
>
> For those of you already flying with a Dynon. How do you change the
pressure
> setting and how practical is it?
>
> Thanks, Steve.
> #90360
> UK
Steve,
I don't know if got an answer which is, it is very easy to change the baro.
Push one button, then another then push buttons associated with up or down
then press a button to get out of the mode. Also, when you get to the
screen that allows you to set the baro, there is a button labeled 29.92 to
quickset pressure altitude.
Ross
N9PT
Now an airplane...first flight on Sunday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Over the fence at 70 ........ |
I use 70 for base and final, then 60-65 "over the fence" as you
say... I just don't want to run out of speed during the flare and
have to count on an engine burst to stop the descent rate.
- Andy
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:13:12 -0800
>
>I'm still building and have no opportunity to land a 9 yet but
for a plane with a stall in the mid 40s and reportedly very
stable handling 70 sounds rather high. I used 60 - 65 in the
Cherokees and 152s and would not expect to use higher
speeds in a slipperier (?) plane with a similar stall speed.
>Is anyone using slower speeds?
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley
>RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
>
>
>_-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
"rv9-list(at)matronics.com
(1.9 points)
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by ordering the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time, by a
fussy Builder. Contains 64 pages of the latest,
practical information - summarized and gathered from
MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders like you (what
worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc. Covers
Products (characteristics & application of) from PP&G,
Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft,
Randolph Paints, PRC De Soto, US Paints, Aircraft
Finishing Systems, Tempo, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Criteria for selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaners and their
effectiveness
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, Phone
Numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save Time, Money and Frustration. Order
today.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
Just an opinion:
Floats
Pros: Inexpensive, simple
Cons: Moving parts (you will eventually have to replace them)
Linearity varies with tank geometry
Capacitance
Pros: No moving parts (you'll probably never have to remove the tank to
fix/replace a sensor)
Accurate-you can calibrate the linearity
Cons: Expensive (EI gauge is $450), slight inaccurices with AVgas versus
MOgas
Added complexity
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
THIS IS NOT "SPAM", but from my research I did for my
RV-8A which I am building.
--------------- ------------- ------------
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by using the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time by me,
a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 64 pages of the
latest, practical information - summarized and
gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc.
Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
compatibility
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save time, money and frustration.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hollandm" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | LED Cabin light? |
Anyone know a source for an LED bright enough to use as a cabin/baggage light?
Would consider adapting a bicycle or camping light.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are some of the nice things people have been saying about the Lists
in that little message box on the Contribution form! Thank you to everyone
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feedback! Please know that I really appreciate the comments and support!!
If you haven't yet shown your support for these Lists, won't you take a
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Commercial-Free, SPAM-Free, Virus-Free, and High-performance and its your
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Thank you for your Contribution!!
SSL Secure Web Site - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
================================================================
=================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
================================================================
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-Clifford M.
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Thanks for being there - your List has really been of help.
-Thomas R.
Your lists have been most helpful to my RV-9A project.
-Dean V.
...has been a great help to me.
-Jim N.
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-Ron P.
...very valuable!
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Don't know that I could have persevered and succeeded without the List.
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for homebuilding that I have ever found.
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is priceless.
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Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Cabin light? |
See the 4 LED cluster on this page:
http://www.glowire.com/Lazer%20LEDs.htm
They are ready to wire into a 12v source, are
available in white and are very bright.
I also bought an aqua glowstrip for my glareshield
light - $20
--Clay
--- hollandm wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know a source for an LED bright enough to use
> as a cabin/baggage light? Would consider adapting a
> bicycle or camping light.
>
> Thanks
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <mbrandes(at)irr.com> |
| Subject: | My thoughts on ProSeal |
This past weekend I was able to complete most of the prosealing process on
my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle left) Here are some ramblings
about the process:
1) Be Prepared. Have everything you need handy... and think about what
you'll need ahead of time. Don't jump into it without some planning. :-)
2) The smell of MEK is worse than anything else. Send the wife and kids
away for the weekend. Keep the pets away.. I think I got my cat high on the
MEK. :-)
3) Mask off the tank! Doing this only takes a short time and results in a
very clean tank. I put strips of 2.5" masking tape on each side of the rib
leaving enough gap for proseal to contact the skin. After doing 3 or 4
ribs, I went back and peeled it off. Cleanup is a snap.
4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it in my opinion. Proseal is
thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small tupperware bowls for .63 cents.
Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your rivets in the MEK.
5) If you have a digital scale.. use the grams scale. I was mixing 30 grams
to 3 grams. Was enough to do 2 to 3 ribs.
6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read somewhere. So buy
yourself a box or two. You'll need 'em.
7) Keep a tub of MEK handy to drop your gunky cleco's in. They clean up
pretty easy when your done.
8) You can successfully back-rivet the stiffeners as the manual suggests. I
used the long back-rivet set I ordered for the wing skins. You could also
use the back-rivet set that comes with the tool kit.
All that said.. the process wasn't that bad. My hands are pretty sore this
morning. I'm very happy with the results. I'll be happier when I leak test
it and it passes. I need to get the tank internals installed and then I'll
close it up.
Matthew
RV-9A Wings/Tanks
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com>
#90569
PS - Keep your hair away from your cup-o-proseal.
Message
This past weekend I was able to complete most of
the prosealing process on my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle
left) Here are some ramblings about the process:
1) Be Prepared. Have everything you need
handy... and think about what you'll need ahead of time. Don't jump into
it without some planning. :-)
2) The smell of MEK is worse than anything
else. Send the wife and kids away for the weekend. Keep the pets
away.. I think I got my cat high on the MEK. :-)
3) Mask off the tank! Doing this only takes a
short time and results in a very clean tank. I put strips of 2.5" masking
tape on each side of the rib leaving enough gap for proseal to contact the
skin. After doing 3 or 4 ribs, I went back and peeled it off.
Cleanup is a snap.
4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it
in my opinion. Proseal is thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small
tupperware bowls for .63 cents. Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your
rivets in the MEK.
5) If you have a digital scale.. use the grams
scale. I was mixing 30 grams to 3 grams. Was enough to do 2 to 3
ribs.
6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read
somewhere. So buy yourself a box or two. You'll need
'em.
7) Keep a tub of MEK handy to drop your gunky
cleco's in. They clean up pretty easy when your done.
8) You can successfully back-rivet the stiffeners
as the manual suggests. I used the long back-rivet set I ordered for the
wing skins. You could also use the back-rivet set that comes with the tool
kit.
All that said.. the process wasn't that bad.
My hands are pretty sore this morning. I'm very happy with the
results. I'll be happier when I leak test it and it passes. I need
to get the tank internals installed and then I'll close it up.
Matthew
RV-9A Wings/Tanks
www.n523rv.com
#90569
PS - Keep your hair away from your cup-o-proseal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
I have a question.
I have the cap tanks, but would rather use analog gauges, is there a way to
accomplish this?
Harold Kovac, Wings nearing completion . about to order fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
>
> Just an opinion:
>
> Floats
> Pros: Inexpensive, simple
> Cons: Moving parts (you will eventually have to replace them)
> Linearity varies with tank geometry
>
> Capacitance
> Pros: No moving parts (you'll probably never have to remove the tank to
> fix/replace a sensor)
> Accurate-you can calibrate the linearity
> Cons: Expensive (EI gauge is $450), slight inaccurices with AVgas versus
> MOgas
> Added complexity
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: My thoughts on ProSeal |
Matthew.....just a couple comments on your ramblings:
Quoting Matthew Brandes :
>
> This past weekend I was able to complete most of the prosealing process on
> my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle left) Here are some ramblings
> about the process:
Snip......
> 4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it in my opinion. Proseal is
> thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small tupperware bowls for .63 cents.
> Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your rivets in the MEK.
You don't need cups at all. I just used cereal box cardboard. Use it like a
palette. Proseal is thick enough to not run off.
> 6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read somewhere. So buy
> yourself a box or two. You'll need 'em.
Careful. Some surgical type gloves Definately Do NOT hold up to MEK. Others
hold up fine. Nitrile gloves are good. I have not found anything that will go
through them.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Aluminum Air Vents |
If you didn't get a chance to visit Oshkosh this year, and stop by the Van's Aircraft
tent, you probably missed meeting and talking to Jeff Mears of Airkit,
LLC. Jeff was at Oshkosh introducing his brand new set of full size aluminum
vents, which are a direct replacement to the plastic ones Van sells.
We just received a set of Jeff?s vents for our own RV-9A, and we are very impressed
with the quality, looks and performance of the vents. We want everyone on
the list to know that we paid the full price for our vents (call Jeff and ask).
Our main motive for posting this e-mail is, strictly, as a response to the
high number of calls we have received asking for an alternative to Van's plastic
vents. Until now, we didn?t know of one. All of the available aluminum
vents out there are only sold with a clear finish, and are much smaller in size
and volume of air they provide.
If you want to see a side by side comparison of the plastic vs. aluminum vents, see this special webpage we've created at http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html We are planning to sell these vents on a "Pass-Thru" basis to our customers to save them a bit on shipping charges when ordered with a Modular Panel, but if you are interested on a set of these vents, you can order them directly from Jeff by visiting his website at http://www.bravoavtech.com/airkit/ The vents are pricey, but compared to what other aviation catalog companies are charging for the tiny ones, these are an excellent deal.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hollandm" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Cabin light? |
Thanks for the suggestion, I've ordered a couple, one the white quad as a
cabin light I'll mount on the F706 bulkhead facing forward and the other a
red 3light spread on the left under F721B positioned to light up my backup
flight instruments. I was also considering adapting a bicycle LED headlamp
as a cabin light and a tail light for the night instrument flood. They
would have required resistors to hard wire them to the ship power but the
overall cost is about the same if not better than buying these specialized
LED's.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay R" <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: LED Cabin light?
>
> See the 4 LED cluster on this page:
> http://www.glowire.com/Lazer%20LEDs.htm
>
> They are ready to wire into a 12v source, are
> available in white and are very bright.
>
> I also bought an aqua glowstrip for my glareshield
> light - $20
> --Clay
>
> --- hollandm wrote:
> >
> >
> > Anyone know a source for an LED bright enough to use
> > as a cabin/baggage light? Would consider adapting a
> > bicycle or camping light.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
Harold,
Van's dosen't make it clear that the capacitve tank plates will only work
with the $400 EI gauge (or similar).
You may be able to use the capacitive converters for the EI gauge ($45).
They are just a 555 timer that converts capacitance to frequency. Filtered,
it may work with the analog gauges, haven't tried it though. They will not
be linear. Or, you could design your own capacitance to voltage converter.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
>
> I have a question.
> I have the cap tanks, but would rather use analog gauges, is there a way
to
> accomplish this?
> Harold Kovac, Wings nearing completion . about to order fuse
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
Another capacitance option is to go with the EIS 4000?, then two converters
at $95 a pop will allow the fuel to be displayed on the EIS screen. Have not
tried it but would like to hear if anybody has.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Floats or Capacitance gauges |
This plus the errors occurring when different fuel additives are present (in Mogas)
are exactly why my senders went back to Vans.
My fuel management will use flow measurement with both a time @ x gph and float
gauge back up.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
Harold,
Van's dosen't make it clear that the capacitve tank plates will only work
with the $400 EI gauge (or similar).
You may be able to use the capacitive converters for the EI gauge ($45).
They are just a 555 timer that converts capacitance to frequency. Filtered,
it may work with the analog gauges, haven't tried it though. They will not
be linear. Or, you could design your own capacitance to voltage converter.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
"RV-9 Yahoo List" ,
"RV-9 Matronics List"
| Subject: | Alternate static sources |
A question for all you IFR guys. I plan to build my RV-9A for IFR and to use two
fuselage static ports (linked so as to average out any slip error). My question
is one of redundancy. Is there a need with this arrangement to have yet
a third port for redundancy? A heated pitot is the way I'm thinking (at least
it would be a source that wouldn't ice over). What are the odds of both fuselage
ports freezing or clogging at the same time since if one did, the other
would be the alternate? Has it happened to anyone? I'm wondering if the price
delta of $200 between with and without static in the pitot is worth it or if
in the very rare instance I can just break the VSI glass. Any input would be
greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Doug Fischer
90706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | re: alternative static ports |
hi doug: personally, I think this may be misguided. For $2,000, you can get
a dynon efis system, which can be a backup in virtually every possible way.
It functions more accurately, IMHO, than the ordinary aircraft systems. (I
have one, and love it.) And this will also make fail-detection far faster.
I would just put in the 6 ordinary instruments, plus one dynon.
regards,
/iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I was thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and
also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here
provide a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
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prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
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Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
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way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of use is
outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth of
messages on line for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys who I knew and who where
also building RVs. It has grown into over 40 different aviation-related
Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 10,000,000 hits
each year!! Additionally, the List email system forwards well over
90,000,000 (yes, that 90 MILLION) email messages to subscribers each
year! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value in
supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and
improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
-----------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smbluthing(at)volexpress.com |
dwg 28 around area d4 "see f-824B cover plate detail dwg 26"..........i
go to dwg 26 and see no cover plate detail, my dwg26 is dated
8/14/00......does anyone know where cover plate detail is on the plans
or could someone email the detail? thanking you in advance for your
assistance.
will i every finish or is the a test of patience!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
smbluthing(at)volexpress.com wrote:
>
> dwg 28 around area d4 "see f-824B cover plate detail dwg 26"..........i
> go to dwg 26 and see no cover plate detail, my dwg26 is dated
> 8/14/00......does anyone know where cover plate detail is on the plans
> or could someone email the detail? thanking you in advance for your
> assistance.
Drawing 44 area e7 has F-824B cover plate hardware callouts.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - plumbing/electrical/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
I have Dwg 26, rev 1, dated 3/9/01 and it has no reference to the F-824B
cover plate either. If you have the finish kit or Preview Plans, check Dwg
44, zones D7 and E7 for the installation details. There are 8 tapped holes
in each longeron for fairing installations, 6 for the F-994A empennage gap
cover and 2 for the F-994B empennage fairing. The 4 fwd holes in the F-994A
match the F-773 side skins, and the aft 2 locate the holes to be drilled
through the F-824B cover plate and longeron. The 7th hole through the
F-994B/F-824B/longeron appears to be eyeballed and the 8th hole appears to
pick up the existing rivet hole in the fwd flange of the aft tailcone
bulkhead. See the notes in zone 9E. Hope this helps.
Dean
90095 Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: <smbluthing(at)volexpress.com>
Subject: RV9-List: plans snafu
>
> dwg 28 around area d4 "see f-824B cover plate detail dwg 26"..........i
> go to dwg 26 and see no cover plate detail, my dwg26 is dated
> 8/14/00......does anyone know where cover plate detail is on the plans
> or could someone email the detail? thanking you in advance for your
> assistance.
>
>
> will i every finish or is the a test of patience!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
3X too much?
What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
to several RV lists.
Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren W Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
Folks use all sorts of stuff, I used a 2X gun, I like it, but found it too small
for
the spar to web rivets, had to drill em out! The spar is solid and does to let
the
bucking bar buck! I just posted how to drill out a rivet at http://ahyup.com/ReRivet/
Lurk around and check out different web sites , mine is http://ahyup.com It links to
others that link to others. Get some good tools, you want them to be a joy to use.
Warren
>
> I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
> build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
>
> What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
> longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
> 3X too much?
>
> What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
> uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
> sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
> liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
>
> What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
> rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
>
> I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
> to several RV lists.
>
> Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
>
> Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/16/03 |
Lyle-
You'll get LOTS of conflicting advice on these questions, but I suggest you start
out with one of the standard "RV tool kits" from Avery or Cleaveland. They
are the two best tool companies on the market and they understand RV's. Use the
bars, sets, etc that come with the kit. Buy an organizer for your riveting and
dimpling dies. You WILL buy more later (more dies, bucking bars, drills, etc),
depending on how your kit progresses, etc. Most builders keep buying tools
for a year or more after they start. This is not a bad thing, as different builders
have differet styles and thus want different tools. Anything you buy from
Avery or Cleaveland will be of excellent quality.
I went to Sun-n-Fun last year and came home with a $275 pneumatic squeezer from
the USATCO booth. Saved a bit from the usual $400 price. But Avery's and Cleaveland's
hand squeezers do an excellent job, too.
If you're building one of the older kits and will assemble the spar yourself, then
a 3X gun is mandatory. If you get a pre-built spar, then a 2X will fit the
bill.
The rest is pure enjoyment.
Ed Winne
Jonestown PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
check dwg 44
>
> dwg 28 around area d4 "see f-824B cover plate detail dwg 26"..........i
> go to dwg 26 and see no cover plate detail, my dwg26 is dated
> 8/14/00......does anyone know where cover plate detail is on the plans
> or could someone email the detail? thanking you in advance for your
> assistance.
>
>
> will i every finish or is the a test of patience!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you flame |
me
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Laurel Mckone" <lmckone(at)xtalwind.net> |
On Thursday 11-20-03 S/N 90120 flew at X-40, First Flight , Flew feet on floor,
Hands in lap, weight 1077 lbs, 0-320, F P Sensenich prop. Well worth the time
and effort. Thanks to a great KIt. Laurel McKone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Awesome! Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laurel Mckone" <lmckone(at)xtalwind.net>
Subject: RV9-List: First Flight
>
> On Thursday 11-20-03 S/N 90120 flew at X-40, First Flight , Flew feet on
floor, Hands in lap, weight 1077 lbs, 0-320, F P Sensenich prop. Well worth
the time and effort. Thanks to a great KIt. Laurel McKone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Way to go! That's great news.
Where is X-40 located at in this big world?
- Andy
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: "Laurel Mckone" <lmckone(at)xtalwind.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 14:59:09 -0500
>
>On Thursday 11-20-03 S/N 90120 flew at X-40, First Flight ,
Flew feet on floor, Hands in lap, weight 1077 lbs, 0-320, F P
Sensenich prop. Well worth the time and effort. Thanks to a
great KIt. Laurel McKone
>
>
>_-
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>_-
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>_-
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>_-
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/19/03 (confirm please) |
fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com here,
I am controlling the email that is sent to my inbox. By asking for you
to confirm that you really sent email to me I can ensure that I receive
no spam and that your email address really exists.
This is a one time confirmation, please click the link below and your
email will be delivered straight away, now and in the future.
Click to confirm:
http://vetomail.com/ok/4d5f1831-58e2-4e12-b1cc-9507c3bed78f
<http://vetomail.com/ok/4d5f1831-58e2-4e12-b1cc-9507c3bed78f>
You are receiving this message in response to your email to
fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com, a VetoMail customer.
VetoMail asks that senders verify their address before email is
delivered. When you have clicked the link above a webpage will be
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verified. You will only need to do this once per VetoMail protected
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Thankyou.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV9-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/19/03 (confirm please) |
fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com wrote:
>
>fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com here,
>
>I am controlling the email that is sent to my inbox. By asking for you
>to confirm that you really sent email to me I can ensure that I receive
>no spam and that your email address really exists.
>
>This is a one time confirmation, please click the link below and your
>email will be delivered straight away, now and in the future.
>
>Click to confirm:
>http://vetomail.com/ok/4d5f1831-58e2-4e12-b1cc-9507c3bed78f
><http://vetomail.com/ok/4d5f1831-58e2-4e12-b1cc-9507c3bed78f>
>
>
>You are receiving this message in response to your email to
>fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com, a VetoMail customer.
>
>VetoMail asks that senders verify their address before email is
>delivered. When you have clicked the link above a webpage will be
>displayed, if the page displays correctly your address has been
>verified. You will only need to do this once per VetoMail protected
>email address.
>
>Thankyou.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations. I'm sure this makes it all worth while.
Dennis Thomas
Engine cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Laurel Mckone" <lmckone(at)xtalwind.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | preheater fire hazard |
Hey, guys, I discovered a great way to set an RV on fire! I was getting ready
to go fly the other day, and was playing with an engine preheater I had made.
It consists of a portable electric heater with a heater blower from a VW bug
attached to the front. A 2 1/2 inch flex duct comes off the blower and goes
in the cowl outlet.
I had it running, and opened the hangar door to let the sun in. I happened to
notice something dripping onto the heater. The sun had warmed the wings, and
the full tank was pushing a few drops of fuel out the vent, dripping directly
onto the heater.
I'm not sure how much of a fire you could start this way, but I will be careful
to place the preheater in such a way as to avoid finding out!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Your RV9A empty weight? |
If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of questions for me? I'd
like to get an average empty weight of flying RV9A's:
What's your empty weight?
What engine/prop combination do you have?
Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
Thanks, Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Your RV9A empty weight? |
Weight: 1087
Prop: Hartzel Constant Speed
Electric Elevator & Aileron Trim, Electric Flaps, IO320 B1a, Night
VFR, Navaid Autopilot, Anywhere Map GPS, Odessy Battery, Skytech Starter
Jim Brandvold
N209RV
Roger Evenson wrote:
>
>If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of questions for me? I'd
like to get an average empty weight of flying RV9A's:
>
>What's your empty weight?
>What engine/prop combination do you have?
>Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
>
>Thanks, Roger.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your RV9A empty weight? |
1034lbs
Lyc 0-320-D2A with Sensenich metal prop
No exterior paint, Day,Night,Vfr, with interior
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 06:22:07 -0700
>
>If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of
questions for me? I'd like to get an average empty weight of
flying RV9A's:
>
>What's your empty weight?
>What engine/prop combination do you have?
>Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
>
>Thanks, Roger.
>
>
>_-
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>_->_-
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Contributions
other
>_-
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>_-
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List.htm
rv9-list
rv9-list
report
>_-
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Fellow RV builders- DRDT-1 dimpling tool |
Fellow RV Builders,
I have developed a new dimpling tool (DRDT-1) that is easier, faster, quieter, and safer (on the skins) then any other tool offered by existing aircraft tool suppliers. I have designed it to accommodate all the skins used in a RV construction including the prebent leading and trailing edge skins and the larger skins used in the RV-10. Please visit ExperimentalAero at www.experimentalaero.com for more information about the DRDT-1, pricing and latest updates. Additionally on this website you will also find innovative tools and components under development for your experimental aircraft project.
10/11/03
(CASA GRANDE, AZ) The DRDT-1 was demonstrated to Ken Krueger (engineering) and
Scott McDaniels (prototype shop) from Van's Aircraft at the Copperstate Fly-in.
Van's prototype shop uses the c-frame impact dimpling tool mounted on a table.
According to Scott, the c-frame is the nosiest tool in the shop and hearing
protection is required when in use. Prior to actually using the DRDT-1 both
were very skeptical about the tool and its ability to dimple as well as the
impact c-frame dimplers on the market. After trying it they both were surprised
at the ease, consistency and quality of the dimpling. In fact Scott, the
most skeptical of all and self proclaimed dimpling snob, only used it a few times
and then requested a unit be sent to Van's prototype shop. With the DRDT-1
the noise level in the prototype shop will be greatly reduced (there is no
noise produced while dimpling with the DRDT-1), not to mention the increase in
speed and consistency of dimpling.
Sincerely,
Paul Merems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your RV9A empty weight? |
----- Original Message -----
1079 lbs. with paint.
O-320-E2D with Sensenich fixed pitch (77CM)
Saved 12 lbs with Skytech starter in leiu of Electrosystems.
Dick Jones 90062
From: Roger Evenson
Subject: RV9-List: Your RV9A empty weight?
>
> If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of questions for me? I'd
like to get an average empty weight of flying RV9A's:
>
> What's your empty weight?
> What engine/prop combination do you have?
> Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
>
> Thanks, Roger.
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Plexi Wingtip Covers |
Any one come up with a good way to measure the plexiwingtip covers for
cutting.
Terrence Gardner
Fuse/Wings odds and ends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Wingtip Covers |
Hi Terrance,
We just placed them over the wing tip, got an approximate mark, and started
trimming. Go a little over size for starters, then work them down to the
finish size you need. Leave about 1/16 inch gap between the edge of the plexi
and
the indent in the wing tip. This stuff expands and contracts a lot with
heat. If it rubs it will wear through your paint job.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Thomas" <315(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV9A with 180 hp |
Anyone know about Earl Brabant's RV9a that has the 180 hp engine? His recent
completion was featured in the recent RVator. I am interested in installing
that same hp engine in my 9A and would like to learn more about this and
about how to do the float installation. Anyone know how to contact Earl?
Tahks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Rv8-List" ,
Rv7-List
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: AK 450 ELT |
Hey Stein, I got the order from you today,
Great service and great prices. I have the Coax installed and the Xpndr checed
out OK..
Hoping to have the uhmw tape on in a couple of weeks.........
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RE: Billet Airconditioning Vents |
Terrence Gardner
> [Original Message]
> From: Scott Sandoval <ssandoval(at)billetspecialties.com>
> To:
> Date: 11/24/2003 12:46:32 PM
> Subject: RE: Billet Airconditioning Vents
>
> Yes the vents are adjustable 360 deg. However they cannot be closed as
there
> is no provision for doing that on the part. The bezel is larger than the
> opening that has to be cut in the dash.
>
> Scott Sandoval
> Marketing Manager
> Billet Specialties Inc.
> (708) 588-0505
> ssandoval(at)billetspecialties.com
> www.billetspecialties.com
> www.chicayne.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terrence Gardner [mailto:ttandt(at)mindspring.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 11:30 AM
> To: info(at)billetspecialties.com
> Subject: Billet Airconditioning Vents
>
> Are these vents adjustable, and can they be opened and closed. Also it is
> not evident from the picture, is the face plate larger than the base.
>
>
> Terrence Gardner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
If u have ny left, give me a call I'll take one... Dick Migas 9A fuselage
done..
Phone 480 836 1764 til Monday 28th then 3608254014 for month of Dec
thanks, Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smbluthing(at)volexpress.com |
| Subject: | navaid installation |
has anyone successfully installed the servo to and near the right wing
bell crank, like the original van's installation? if this is a no
brainer please loan me your brain for the duration of the process.
dimensions and photo's appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Your RV9A empty weight? |
Thanks for the info, Jim. But didn't I see in Van's instructions that the
IO320B1A is an engine that doesn't fit the RV's? Did you have to make some
serious modifications?
Roger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Brandvold" <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Your RV9A empty weight?
>
> Weight: 1087
> Prop: Hartzel Constant Speed
> Electric Elevator & Aileron Trim, Electric Flaps, IO320 B1a, Night
> VFR, Navaid Autopilot, Anywhere Map GPS, Odessy Battery, Skytech Starter
>
> Jim Brandvold
> N209RV
>
> Roger Evenson wrote:
>
> >
> >If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of questions for me?
I'd like to get an average empty weight of flying RV9A's:
> >
> >What's your empty weight?
> >What engine/prop combination do you have?
> >Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
> >
> >Thanks, Roger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
"RV-9A @ Yahoo"
| Subject: | AFS Waterbourne painting |
For those of you looking for a safer, more environmental
friendly, good quality paint system... I have posted a detailed
write up with pictures of the process of painting my fiberglass
parts using AFS 2 part Polyurathane paint.
I switched to AFS products a few years ago since I build in my
attached garage and could not tollerate the solvent smell in
the house and for my personal health.
Here's the link:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/Paint/AFS-Painting/
afs-paint.htm
- Andy Karmy
RV9A, Seattle WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | elevator spar riveting |
Hi 9 builders,
I took a stab at riveting the top side of the elevator today but
didn't have very good luck. When I tried conventional riveting with
the top side held up in the air with duct tape, I had trouble keeping
both the rivet set and bucking bar on target without wandering off. I
also tried back-riveting but couldn't get the skin pressed down onto
the plate enough -- the bend in the skin kept the rivets from seating
in the dimples properly no matter how hard I pressed down.
Any hints on either approach?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
I'm about ready to rivet my spar to the elevator top skin as well. I'm very
interested to hear any tips or advise as well.
Thanks,
Bryon Crook
RV-9A (working on right elevator)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
Are you using that back riveting set that has the spring loaded collar? If
the spring tension isn't quite enough, you can increase it with your fingers
while riveting. That should press the skin down tightly. Also, I taped the
rivets in with a strip of Scotch packaging tape. I'm assuming that we are
talking about the stiffener to skin rivets.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> Hi 9 builders,
> I took a stab at riveting the top side of the elevator today but
> didn't have very good luck. When I tried conventional riveting with
> the top side held up in the air with duct tape, I had trouble keeping
> both the rivet set and bucking bar on target without wandering off. I
> also tried back-riveting but couldn't get the skin pressed down onto
> the plate enough -- the bend in the skin kept the rivets from seating
> in the dimples properly no matter how hard I pressed down.
> Any hints on either approach?
> Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
Well, like it says in the subject line, we are talking about
skin to spar rivets :) I didn't have any problem with
the stiffeners.
The bend in the skin bulges outward when you hold the
skin open, which then prevented me from generating enough
pressure with my free hand to keep everything pressed
onto the backrivet plate.
Paul
>
> Are you using that back riveting set that has the spring loaded collar? If
> the spring tension isn't quite enough, you can increase it with your fingers
> while riveting. That should press the skin down tightly. Also, I taped the
> rivets in with a strip of Scotch packaging tape. I'm assuming that we are
> talking about the stiffener to skin rivets.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> > Hi 9 builders,
> > I took a stab at riveting the top side of the elevator today but
> > didn't have very good luck. When I tried conventional riveting with
> > the top side held up in the air with duct tape, I had trouble keeping
> > both the rivet set and bucking bar on target without wandering off. I
> > also tried back-riveting but couldn't get the skin pressed down onto
> > the plate enough -- the bend in the skin kept the rivets from seating
> > in the dimples properly no matter how hard I pressed down.
> > Any hints on either approach?
> > Paul
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
> I took a stab at riveting the top side of the elevator today but
> didn't have very good luck.
Paul,
I took some foam blocks and sponges and wedged open the skin so the top and
bottom were open about 90 degrees. The top skin was sitting on my back
riveting plate and the bottom skin was sticking almost straight up. I then
took the long rivet set that came with my Avery C-Frame tool, placed it in
my rivet gun and back riveted the spars to the skins. Contact me off-list if
you'd like to receive a photo of how I did this.
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
I did not back rivet the spar. I set the elevators upright in a cradle with
the trailing edge up. then reached in from the top to rivet the spars. I
did not have any problems, but I did not spread the skins apart at the
trailing edge any more than necessary to get my forearm in to buck the
rivets. I am having a hard time understanding how you would back rivet the
skin to spar.
John Oliveira
N909RV -
you can see some of my work at http://eaa44.org/projects.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator spar riveting |
I just riveted my right elevator spar to top skin and it came out OK. I first
hand squeezed as many rivets as I could (22), then I clecoed the trailing
edge of the bottom skin to the table and pulled the top up to 90 degrees. I could
then reach in with a bucking bar and rivet the remainning rivets.
Worked out great.
Bryon Crook
RV-9A emp. (right elevator almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
I understand that the RV-9 wing airfoil is the RONCZ RVT6.
I am performing some analysis on the RV-9 design.
Can anyone tell me the location of the spars with respect to the wing rib?
Wing Rib dimensions would also be appreciated.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Ellisons and car gas |
I would like to hear from anyone who has experience running car gas with an Ellison
TBI.
Thanks,
Gary RV-9A 55 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Adjustments |
I'm not clear on what balanced means when it comes to setting up the elevators.
Is it recommended we bolt everything together including push rods, control sticks
and trim servo after painting in hopes the elevators will simply set in trail?
Van makes clear his concern for flutter in the performance testing of the
manual. Has anyone experienced problems here and to what degree of detail should
we strive for? I recall reading somewhere we are not trying to balance the
system only prevent flutter.??? Also if anyone has drilled the counter weights
to lighten it did you drill a series of holes along the centerline or just
one?
Steve Dwyer 90219 Painting completed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan carr" <b.m.carr(at)telus.net> |
At Oshkosh last July, I saw aux fuel tanks on a RV-4 that were made from a 5" tube
that was placed in the nose rib lightening holes.
Anyone know where I could get more information about this?
Bryan Carr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Auto Fuel with Ellison |
Hi, I used the Ellison on a Lyc 0-235 for 200 hours with no problem while using
auto fuel. My only caution is to assure the fuel has no alcohol in it.
Ellison will not state it is OK to use auto fuel but with the before mentioned
cautions there will be no problems.
Hope this helps.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | re: aux fuel tanks |
Bryan;
Here's their website: http://www.hotelwhiskey.com/
Bruce Breckenridge
Clackamas OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Adjustments |
The better balanced, the better,,, but don't go nuts over it. I hung my
elevators on the HS during construction and noticed that they dropped to
the bottom due to the weight of my servo motor. To counter this, I had to
form and attach an additional lead counterweight. I hear that Vans has
since changed either the amount of lead or the instructions for cutting the
lead, I'm not sure which. I intentionally left slightly more weight than
needed, so that the elevator now trailed slightly high. After final paint,
it falls roughly level. If I needed to remove more lead, I could simply
drill into the weights, but close enough is close enough. She flies like a
dream!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Adjustments and Related Accuracy Requirements |
Speaking of precision, what have people found out about:
Accuracy to which the Horizontal Stabilizer Tips should be of fixed
distance from point on firewall - I have it down to 1/16". Is this good
enough?
Accuracy to which the Horizontal Stabilizer should be aligned to level -
I have it down to 0.2 degrees. Is this ok or should I add shims to get it
closer to 0 degrees?
Accuracy to which Right and Left Elevators should be aligned to each
other - I have them down to 0.6 degrees and am worried about potential roll
torque at high speeds?
If anyone has any sage advice here please let me know.
Mike Duiven
N711ED (Reserved)
Relative to issues of balabce - I had to add some mass to weights to account
for electric trim motor. I have left them a bit heavy and will drill them
out if and when it is needed. Better to be a little heavy and take material
away than to have to add material later.
emduiven(at)chaffee.net or emduiven(at)eaa1161.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Adjustments
>
> I'm not clear on what balanced means when it comes to setting up the
elevators. Is it recommended we bolt everything together including push
rods, control sticks and trim servo after painting in hopes the elevators
will simply set in trail? Van makes clear his concern for flutter in the
performance testing of the manual. Has anyone experienced problems here and
to what degree of detail should we strive for? I recall reading somewhere we
are not trying to balance the system only prevent flutter.??? Also if anyone
has drilled the counter weights to lighten it did you drill a series of
holes along the centerline or just one?
>
> Steve Dwyer 90219 Painting completed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Adjustments and Related Accuracy Requirements |
My advice would be to keep building and stop worrying about precision. It
sounds like you're well inside the envelope where the wings stay with the
craft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Adjustments |
Balence each half sep.this way you can get better balence in case you have a trime
servo or more paint on one side then the other.multi.holes along leading edge
of counter weights worked best for me.less on servo side. bolt together after
balenceing very smooth.you are balenceing the surface not the linkage just
like rudder and ailerons.
-----Original Message-----
From: steve dwyer <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Adjustments
I'm not clear on what balanced means when it comes to setting up the elevators.
Is it recommended we bolt everything together including push rods, control sticks
and trim servo after painting in hopes the elevators will simply set in trail?
Van makes clear his concern for flutter in the performance testing of the
manual. Has anyone experienced problems here and to what degree of detail should
we strive for? I recall reading somewhere we are not trying to balance the
system only prevent flutter.??? Also if anyone has drilled the counter weights
to lighten it did you drill a series of holes along the centerline or just
one?
Steve Dwyer 90219 Painting completed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | F7108 A/B F7108 A/B forward fuselage question |
I am working on the upper forward fuselage (dwg 24) for my 9A with
sliding canopy. On the drawing it says to insert an AN960-6 washer
between F7108A and F7108B to allow space for the "hatchet" end of the
canopy support.
Well, first, there were no AN960-6 washers supplied with the fuselage
kit (as far as I can tell).
Second, I could steal one from those supplied with the finish kit, but
AN960-6 washers are only 0.031" thick anyway, so how does that provide
enough space for the canopy support end which is 0.075 thick?
What did you guys do who have already passed this point in construction?
I am sending this to the RV7 list as well since I believe the
construction is the same.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage, finish kit is here...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <rv6(at)LOCKHART.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: F7108 A/B F7108 A/B forward fuselage question |
-----I MADE A SPACER THE SAME THICKNESS AS THE HATCHET END AND RAN IT THE FULL
LENGTH OF THE ANGLE.
TED JONES (FINISH KIT)
Original Message -----
From: Richard Tasker
Subject: RV9-List: F7108 A/B F7108 A/B forward fuselage question
>
> I am working on the upper forward fuselage (dwg 24) for my 9A with
> sliding canopy. On the drawing it says to insert an AN960-6 washer
> between F7108A and F7108B to allow space for the "hatchet" end of the
> canopy support.
>
> Well, first, there were no AN960-6 washers supplied with the fuselage
> kit (as far as I can tell).
>
> Second, I could steal one from those supplied with the finish kit, but
> AN960-6 washers are only 0.031" thick anyway, so how does that provide
> enough space for the canopy support end which is 0.075 thick?
>
> What did you guys do who have already passed this point in construction?
>
> I am sending this to the RV7 list as well since I believe the
> construction is the same.
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Fuselage, finish kit is here...
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F7108 A/B F7108 A/B forward fuselage question |
That's what I was thinking of doing. The Van's way seems kind of
kludged together.
Anyone else out there with comments?
Gary N., if you are still reading this newsgroup, what did you do?
Dick Tasker
rv6(at)LOCKHART.NET wrote:
>
>-----I MADE A SPACER THE SAME THICKNESS AS THE HATCHET END AND RAN IT THE FULL
LENGTH OF THE ANGLE.
>
>
>TED JONES (FINISH KIT)
> Original Message -----
>
>
>From: Richard Tasker
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com;RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com;rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: F7108 A/B F7108 A/B forward fuselage question
>
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>I am working on the upper forward fuselage (dwg 24) for my 9A with
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>sliding canopy. On the drawing it says to insert an AN960-6 washer
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>between F7108A and F7108B to allow space for the "hatchet" end of the
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>canopy support.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Well, first, there were no AN960-6 washers supplied with the fuselage
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>kit (as far as I can tell).
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Second, I could steal one from those supplied with the finish kit, but
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>AN960-6 washers are only 0.031" thick anyway, so how does that provide
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>enough space for the canopy support end which is 0.075 thick?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>What did you guys do who have already passed this point in construction?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>I am sending this to the RV7 list as well since I believe the
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>construction is the same.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Dick Tasker, 90573
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>Fuselage, finish kit is here...
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>_-
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>>_-
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>>_-
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>_-
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Centennial Celebration |
while the world watched Kitty Hawk this morning, over 1000 people and 30 plus planes
made their way to Brigham City UT (BMC) to watch the flight of the Utah
State University Wright Flyer. Modeled after the 1905 Flyer, it has flown over
200 times and made several flights today, taking off under its own power. It
has flown at several locations this summer including several flights at Wright
Patterson, some with astronauts, John Glenn and Jake Garn in the right seat.
It is reported to be the first plane to take off and land at Huffman Prairie
in over 60 years.
It was thrilling to part of this little re-enactment on the celebration of a great
day in history..
John Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Mounting |
Hello,
I am mounting my elevators to drill the horns for the center bearing. If I
back out the rod end bearings to the distance specified in the plans(13/16"
-7/8"), the rolled leading edge still rubs on the HS. How far out can I set
the rod end bearings and still be safe?
Thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Flight test reviews |
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net>
> Date: December 18, 2003 9:55:13 PM AST
> To: vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com, RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com,
> rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Flight test reviews
>
> Has anyone out there got an article in electronic form on an RV-9
> flight test or flight review? Or perhaps a pointer to such?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Blanton Fortson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Flying with Bob Archer Com Antennas? |
Can any of you out there flying with these antennas advise on their performance?
Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Tucson, -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Adjustments and Related Accuracy Requirements |
My elevators were perfectly balanced but after I painted my them I found one
was a bit light so I pop riveted a steel square piece on next to the lead
weight. Painted it the same as the rest of the elevator and it is hardly
noticeable.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Centennial Celebration |
Are there any pics of the flight?
Albert Gardner
> while the world watched Kitty Hawk this morning, over 1000 people and 30
plus planes made their way to Brigham City UT (BMC) to watch the flight of
the Utah State University Wright Flyer. Modeled after the 1905 Flyer, it has
flown over 200 times and made several flights today, taking off under its
own power. It has flown at several locations this summer including several
flights at Wright Patterson, some with astronauts, John Glenn and Jake Garn
in the right seat. It is reported to be the first plane to take off and
land at Huffman Prairie in over 60 years.
> It was thrilling to part of this little re-enactment on the celebration of
a great day in history..
> John Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Centennial Celebration |
sadly, I forgot to take my camera. As an update, the USU Wright Flyer has now completed
300 flights. Negotiations are taking place to donate the "Flyer" to the
Wright-Patterson Museum.
As a sidelight, EAA/Ford refused to allow the USU Wright Flyer to come to OSH.
I guess they could have just flown in, but asked first.
>
> Are there any pics of the flight?
> Albert Gardner
>
> > while the world watched Kitty Hawk this morning, over 1000 people and 30
> plus planes made their way to Brigham City UT (BMC) to watch the flight of
> the Utah State University Wright Flyer. Modeled after the 1905 Flyer, it has
> flown over 200 times and made several flights today, taking off under its
> own power. It has flown at several locations this summer including several
> flights at Wright Patterson, some with astronauts, John Glenn and Jake Garn
> in the right seat. It is reported to be the first plane to take off and
> land at Huffman Prairie in over 60 years.
> > It was thrilling to part of this little re-enactment on the celebration of
> a great day in history..
> > John Kerr
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Mourning" <sammourning(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale RV-9A Tail, Wings, Fuse, Engine, Tools, Extras |
For Sale: RV-9A Tail (finished), Wings (finished) Fuse (nearing quickbuild
stage), Tool set (including pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes), Engine
O-320-H2AD (first run), and extras. $21,000. Would prefer not to separate.
Details at http://www.vondane.com/forsale/rv9a/.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Hi guys,
I did all the bending on my rv-9 trim tab and everything clecoed
together perfectly. I then went through a lot of trouble to buck
solid rivets on the bottom side of the spar, holding everything open
with clamps and such. Now, the top side of the spar slides past the
skin holes, and if I pull it into alignment I get a lengthwise bubble
on the bottom skin and a corresponding dimple on top. It makes a .1"
gap on either side of a ruler placed forward-aft. The trailing edge
bend still looks good and symmetrical.
I guess the spar doesn't keep the correct angle on the skin unless
clecoed top and bottom. Seems like if I had just used pop rivets
on the bottom, the spar would have stayed in the right orientation and
there would have been no problem. So much for trying to do the right
thing... :)
Anyone successfully used solid rivets on the bottom? Any hints for
my next attempt?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pesky trim tab |
Paul,
I used solid rivets on the bottom as well. I didn't clamp open the skin. I
back riveted the bottom rivets and opened the skin very carefully and just
enough to get the rivet gun in position. I just worked my way from the
center toward each end making sure I didn't bend the skin too much. You
might be able to re-bend the trailing edge to see if that straightens
everything out. Some people have cut the trim tab along the trailing edge
and used the same method as the rudder trailing edge, adding three small
stiffeners, top and bottom, instead of the foam/ProSeal. I would have done
this had I had an extra length of trailing edge wedge material. Sure would
make assembling the trim tab much easier. Hope this helps. By the way, it
took me two trim tabs to get mine right too :)
Mike
SC
90709 wings...clecoing skins on
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Pesky trim tab
>
> Hi guys,
> I did all the bending on my rv-9 trim tab and everything clecoed
> together perfectly. I then went through a lot of trouble to buck
> solid rivets on the bottom side of the spar, holding everything open
> with clamps and such. Now, the top side of the spar slides past the
> skin holes, and if I pull it into alignment I get a lengthwise bubble
> on the bottom skin and a corresponding dimple on top. It makes a .1"
> gap on either side of a ruler placed forward-aft. The trailing edge
> bend still looks good and symmetrical.
>
> I guess the spar doesn't keep the correct angle on the skin unless
> clecoed top and bottom. Seems like if I had just used pop rivets
> on the bottom, the spar would have stayed in the right orientation and
> there would have been no problem. So much for trying to do the right
> thing... :)
>
> Anyone successfully used solid rivets on the bottom? Any hints for
> my next attempt?
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pesky trim tab |
Hmm, an update:
I decided to bite the bullet and drill out all those bottom
spar rivets. On clecoing everything together again, the bulge
is still there...it's as if my spar isn't bent properly. It
doesn't fit quite perfectly in the clamping blocks, for instance.
Rebending it lengthwise ain't easy though! it's too small to get
a good grip on it.
Paul
>
> Hi guys,
> I did all the bending on my rv-9 trim tab and everything clecoed
> together perfectly. I then went through a lot of trouble to buck
> solid rivets on the bottom side of the spar, holding everything open
> with clamps and such. Now, the top side of the spar slides past the
> skin holes, and if I pull it into alignment I get a lengthwise bubble
> on the bottom skin and a corresponding dimple on top. It makes a .1"
> gap on either side of a ruler placed forward-aft. The trailing edge
> bend still looks good and symmetrical.
>
> I guess the spar doesn't keep the correct angle on the skin unless
> clecoed top and bottom. Seems like if I had just used pop rivets
> on the bottom, the spar would have stayed in the right orientation and
> there would have been no problem. So much for trying to do the right
> thing... :)
>
> Anyone successfully used solid rivets on the bottom? Any hints for
> my next attempt?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
Hi All,
Looking to purchase a Pneumatic rivet squeezer.
Anyone wanting to sell, please email at -
plaurence@the-beach.net
thanks
peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joosten, Craig" <CJoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net> |
| Subject: | Using DuPont paint/primers |
Gary Newsted, are you available to provide some pointers on using DuPont
paint/primers?
Thanks
Craig
cjoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Using DuPont paint/primers |
> Gary Newsted, are you available to provide some pointers on using DuPont
> paint/primers?
> Thanks
> Craig
Ask away here, or drop me an email offlist at fcs(at)jlc.net
I'm off to the hangar hoping to find something to do on my 9E while its
snowing, but I'll check my email later on.
Gary
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Brooks
Subject: Whirlwind 151-series Propeller Installation
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.net.01.03.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | fluting wing ribs |
Hi all,
I had my marathon wing rib prep session today, and it went pretty well
except for a final little detail: after fluting, I've gotten each flange
to sit straight, but many of the ribs as a whole are warped by at least
1/4" around the cutout for the J-stiffener. I tried twisting the rib
a bit in various directions and just made it worse.
Are you guys trying to straighten these out? How? I'm sure they'll
come into line when assembled, it doesn't take much force to flatten them...
Paul (very exhausted)
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fluting wing ribs |
They come right into line, don't worry about it.
John Oliveira
Working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: fluting wing ribs
>
> Hi all,
> I had my marathon wing rib prep session today, and it went pretty well
> except for a final little detail: after fluting, I've gotten each flange
> to sit straight, but many of the ribs as a whole are warped by at least
> 1/4" around the cutout for the J-stiffener. I tried twisting the rib
> a bit in various directions and just made it worse.
>
> Are you guys trying to straighten these out? How? I'm sure they'll
> come into line when assembled, it doesn't take much force to flatten
them...
>
> Paul (very exhausted)
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: fluting wing ribs |
Paul,
Personal opinion is don't worry about it.. mine did the same thing and
everything comes into alignment when you rivet it together. Just make
sure the flanges are 90 degree's and go with it.
BTW, your moving quick.... I check you log every day. You keep up the
pace and you'll be flying soon! :-)
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings-Flaps)
EAA Chapter 868
www.n523rv.com
> From: Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> Subject: RV9-List: fluting wing ribs
>
>
> Hi all,
> I had my marathon wing rib prep session today, and it went
> pretty well except for a final little detail: after fluting,
> I've gotten each flange to sit straight, but many of the ribs
> as a whole are warped by at least 1/4" around the cutout for
> the J-stiffener. I tried twisting the rib a bit in various
> directions and just made it worse.
>
> Are you guys trying to straighten these out? How? I'm sure
> they'll come into line when assembled, it doesn't take much
> force to flatten them...
>
> Paul (very exhausted)
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fluting wing ribs |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
01/07/2004 03:50:46 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/07/2004 03:50:46 PM
Yes,
As long as you have fluted them so that the edges of the rib sit flat on a
table (flange up). If they are not sitting flat, go back and flute some
more to get them there. Once flat they will fit correctly. Do not worry
about the center of the rib. it's only purpose is to hold the flange in
place. It does not have to be flat.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"John Oliveira"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/07/2004 05:10 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: fluting wing ribs
They come right into line, don't worry about it.
John Oliveira
Working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: fluting wing ribs
>
> Hi all,
> I had my marathon wing rib prep session today, and it went pretty well
> except for a final little detail: after fluting, I've gotten each flange
> to sit straight, but many of the ribs as a whole are warped by at least
> 1/4" around the cutout for the J-stiffener. I tried twisting the rib
> a bit in various directions and just made it worse.
>
> Are you guys trying to straighten these out? How? I'm sure they'll
> come into line when assembled, it doesn't take much force to flatten
them...
>
> Paul (very exhausted)
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the leading edge
skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the strip that protrudes
from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to the tank. When I asked
Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moxie" <rv9a(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Glenn,
Place the Leading edge on the main spar. Cleco everything down except the
last few leading edge holes to main spar. Also recommend having at least the
top skin on or the bottom, just to straighten the spar out. The W919 strip
is longer that what is needed. Locate the nose area on the W919, not exactly
the middle. Start to work the bend into the W919. I then placed the W919 in
the skin without the rib. I used several clamps to clamp the bottom side of
skin and W919 making sure the left/right measurement was correct (I believe
5/8 of an inch, I check the print DWG 9 SECTION D-D and it measures 7/8 of
an inch). I drilled several of the holes from spar to nose on the skin and
clocoing as I went, about 2/3. I then removed to clean out the chips. Then
replace on skin, cleco and clamp. Now you need a 1 1/2 inch or maybe 2 inch
Dia. piece of PVC about 4 inches long. Clamp the PVC in the nose - tight.
Drill the rest of the bottom holes from spar to nose. If there is no gap
between the W919 and the skin with the PVC in place, then clamp the W919 to
the top part of the skin from nose to spar - reverse direction. Drilling and
clecoing as you go.
Be sure not to over bend the W919 during the hand bending. All from memory
June 2003
Moxie
> Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of > the skin for latter attachment to
the tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks
in advance.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
01/07/2004 11:32:33 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/07/2004 11:32:33 PM
Glen,
Try this.
Mark a center line down the strip. I hope you have not dimpled the holes
on the leading edge outboard skin yet. It helps to have it flat still.
Bend the strip around the leading edge so that it takes the general shape
of the leading edge.
Make sure that the strip is long enough to reach around evenly.
Mark the location of the most outboard hole of the leading edge (near the
nose).
Measure how far the holes are from the edge of the skin and mark another
line on the strip that is the same distance from the center line you put
on earlier.
Drill a pilot hole in the strip where the hole mark line crosses the
second line .
Now cleco it into place on the inside of the LE skin. You should be able
to see the second line through the holes along the edge of the skin.
Drill and cleco them from the leading edge going back to the spar.
You will have to trim the length so that it just touches the spar flange.
there is not enough room to go between the skin and the spar flange.
Now go to the other side of the wing.
Push the strip until it conforms to the shape of the nose of the leading
edge.
Mark the length so that is close to the spar flange and cut to length.
Drill and cleco the strip to the rest of the leading edge skin.
Slide the tank over the strip.
Secure the tank with a few screws to the spar.
Drill to match
Install the plate nuts and finish as normal.
That is my best advice but remember that I did it almost two years ago and
going off memory.
Also buffing a slight taper on the edge that will go between the skin and
the rib will help get it started. It will fit no matter what it appears to
do.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Glenn Brasch"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/07/2004 03:32 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to
the tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot."
Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Finateri, Paulo (IBM) (AZ77)" <paulo.finateri(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Larry,
I did almost exacly what you discribed.... It worked great..!!
My only question is how you installed the platenuts.. The joint
strip is (I think 20 thousands thick) Do you dimple the rivet holes,
or countersink??
Thanks Paulo
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry PERRYMAN [mailto:larry.perryman(at)atofina.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Glen,
Try this.
Mark a center line down the strip. I hope you have not dimpled the holes
on the leading edge outboard skin yet. It helps to have it flat still.
Bend the strip around the leading edge so that it takes the general shape
of the leading edge.
Make sure that the strip is long enough to reach around evenly.
Mark the location of the most outboard hole of the leading edge (near the
nose).
Measure how far the holes are from the edge of the skin and mark another
line on the strip that is the same distance from the center line you put
on earlier.
Drill a pilot hole in the strip where the hole mark line crosses the
second line .
Now cleco it into place on the inside of the LE skin. You should be able
to see the second line through the holes along the edge of the skin.
Drill and cleco them from the leading edge going back to the spar.
You will have to trim the length so that it just touches the spar flange.
there is not enough room to go between the skin and the spar flange.
Now go to the other side of the wing.
Push the strip until it conforms to the shape of the nose of the leading
edge.
Mark the length so that is close to the spar flange and cut to length.
Drill and cleco the strip to the rest of the leading edge skin.
Slide the tank over the strip.
Secure the tank with a few screws to the spar.
Drill to match
Install the plate nuts and finish as normal.
That is my best advice but remember that I did it almost two years ago and
going off memory.
Also buffing a slight taper on the edge that will go between the skin and
the rib will help get it started. It will fit no matter what it appears to
do.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Glenn Brasch"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/07/2004 03:32 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to
the tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot."
Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
After much fiddling I finally got it, but I will still gladly accept ideas
to make the 2nd wing easier! Thanks, Glenn in Arizona.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>
> Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to the
tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks in
advance.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
01/08/2004 12:17:53 AM,
Serialize complete at 01/08/2004 12:17:53 AM
Paulo,
Best I remember, I countersunk the holes for both the rivets and the hole
for the bolt.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Finateri, Paulo (IBM) (AZ77)"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/07/2004 04:54 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Larry,
I did almost exacly what you discribed.... It worked great..!!
My only question is how you installed the platenuts.. The joint
strip is (I think 20 thousands thick) Do you dimple the rivet holes,
or countersink??
Thanks Paulo
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry PERRYMAN [mailto:larry.perryman(at)atofina.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Glen,
Try this.
Mark a center line down the strip. I hope you have not dimpled the holes
on the leading edge outboard skin yet. It helps to have it flat still.
Bend the strip around the leading edge so that it takes the general shape
of the leading edge.
Make sure that the strip is long enough to reach around evenly.
Mark the location of the most outboard hole of the leading edge (near the
nose).
Measure how far the holes are from the edge of the skin and mark another
line on the strip that is the same distance from the center line you put
on earlier.
Drill a pilot hole in the strip where the hole mark line crosses the
second line .
Now cleco it into place on the inside of the LE skin. You should be able
to see the second line through the holes along the edge of the skin.
Drill and cleco them from the leading edge going back to the spar.
You will have to trim the length so that it just touches the spar flange.
there is not enough room to go between the skin and the spar flange.
Now go to the other side of the wing.
Push the strip until it conforms to the shape of the nose of the leading
edge.
Mark the length so that is close to the spar flange and cut to length.
Drill and cleco the strip to the rest of the leading edge skin.
Slide the tank over the strip.
Secure the tank with a few screws to the spar.
Drill to match
Install the plate nuts and finish as normal.
That is my best advice but remember that I did it almost two years ago and
going off memory.
Also buffing a slight taper on the edge that will go between the skin and
the rib will help get it started. It will fit no matter what it appears to
do.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Glenn Brasch"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/07/2004 03:32 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to
the tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot."
Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Hey Glenn,
I just got finished with this task and manage to barely keep my religion. In
retrospect, it was a bitch. Like I heard somebody suggest before: if you
mess with it long enough, it will fit into place. I have seen on a few
builders' sites that they trimmed the strip an inch shorter that the leading
edge skin on either side. So that's what I did and I'm still guessing
whether that is right. The plans do not deal with this. If you are
interested, I posted this on my website at:
http://www.hooverandassociatesinc.com/aviation/RV-9A/wings/currently.htm
Hope this helps.
Mike
SC
90709 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>
> Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the
strip that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to the
tank. When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks in
advance.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Mike, thanks to you and the others that replied. Like I said in a later
post, I finally did get it in. To answer your question about the length, I
did talk to Van's about that because I could not find it in the plans
either, and they told me it should come down approx to the edge and just
above the spar on either sides. Thanks again for everyone's input. Glenn
in Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>
> Hey Glenn,
>
> I just got finished with this task and manage to barely keep my religion.
In
> retrospect, it was a bitch. Like I heard somebody suggest before: if you
> mess with it long enough, it will fit into place. I have seen on a few
> builders' sites that they trimmed the strip an inch shorter that the
leading
> edge skin on either side. So that's what I did and I'm still guessing
> whether that is right. The plans do not deal with this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DANIEL W WATTERS" <danielwatters1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
And you want me to buy a wing kit. Sheeeeeesh.
>From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 14:32:24 -0700
>
>
>Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the leading
>edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the strip
>that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to the tank.
> When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks in
>advance.
>Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
I put another 20 minutes into it and got it..
----- Original Message -----
From: "DANIEL W WATTERS" <danielwatters1(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>
> And you want me to buy a wing kit. Sheeeeeesh.
>
>
> >From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
> >Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 14:32:24 -0700
> >
> >
> >Has anyone figured out any tricks to fitting this strip between the
leading
> >edge skin and inboard rib in preparation of drilling? This is the strip
> >that protrudes from the edge of the skin for latter attachment to the
tank.
> > When I asked Van's they told me to "yell and scream alot." Thanks in
> >advance.
> >Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, Fuselage ordered.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
I want you to buy anything, but you won't get off your duff, go ahead, but
a QB, just do something!!!!!!!!
>
> And you want me to buy a wing kit. Sheeeeeesh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
Good timing because last week I trashed the first one and used the strip
for the second wing. That was another item to add to my collection of
dead RV-9 parts.
What I did the second time around was to line up the rib with the end of
the skin, drill & cleco it w/o the band strip in place. I then drew a
line on both sides of the band the thickness of the tip rib webbing and
measured and drilled the first hole (Aft most hole) in the band and
celecoed that one and only hole to the outside of the skin w/ the rib in
place. I then bent the band so it roughly conformed to the leading
edge, watching the line to make sure it was "square" while I bent it. I
then removed the tip rib and carefully match drilled the band to the
leading edge w/o the rib in place. Once that was done it was simply a
matter of deburring & dimpling them before going on to the fuel tank.
As for the p-nuts, I match drilled them to the fuel tank then match
drilled the p-nut rivet holes while it was still on the leading edge and
the fuel tank was removed (duh!). I then dimpled the band and the
p-nuts and riveted them in place with the band still clecoed in place
between the rib and the skin.
I hope this helps.
BTW, don't worry about the fuel tanks, they aren't as bad as everyone
would make you believe. Just have LOTS of gloves around and keep
changing them when they get junked up. That will keep your tank, tools
and you much cleaner. I'm riveting the tank ribs at a rate of one a
night so I can take my time. The entire process takes about 45 minutes
including prep and clean up.
Good luck and keep riveting.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
W941WR (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Brasch
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
Mike, thanks to you and the others that replied. Like I said in a later
post, I finally did get it in. To answer your question about the
length, I did talk to Van's about that because I could not find it in
the plans either, and they told me it should come down approx to the
edge and just above the spar on either sides. Thanks again for
everyone's input. Glenn in Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate
>
> Hey Glenn,
>
> I just got finished with this task and manage to barely keep my
> religion.
In
> retrospect, it was a bitch. Like I heard somebody suggest before: if
> you mess with it long enough, it will fit into place. I have seen on a
> few builders' sites that they trimmed the strip an inch shorter that
> the
leading
> edge skin on either side. So that's what I did and I'm still guessing
> whether that is right. The plans do not deal with this.
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DANIEL W WATTERS" <danielwatters1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting W 919 Joint Plate |
I just bought a squeezer and two yokes. That's somethin' ain't it? My duff
is sitting on my wallet.
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joosten, Craig" <CJoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net> |
| Subject: | Using DuPont paint/primers |
Gary
I am having difficulty contacting you off line.
Craig #90891
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Newsted
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Using DuPont paint/primers
> Gary Newsted, are you available to provide some pointers on using DuPont
> paint/primers?
> Thanks
> Craig
Ask away here, or drop me an email offlist at fcs(at)jlc.net
I'm off to the hangar hoping to find something to do on my 9E while its
snowing, but I'll check my email later on.
Gary
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
01/08/2004 11:45:37 AM
Hello all list readers... I am at the point in my construction where I
should be mounting the wings to set the angle of incidence, etc.
Unfortunately my fuse is being built in a very small basement and is very
hard to remove. What I would like to do is complete the fuse in the
basement, remove it and then mount the wings. Has anyone done this? Looking
for advice from someone who has gone this route and any problems they might
have run into. The biggest problem seems to be setting up the fuel line and
electrical routing.
Thanks for the help.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
List. The most important decision a builder must make is their choice of
Kit. I have already made that choice as I have a RV-9A kit ready to make
the powerplant choice. The second most inportant decision is that of
making a powerplant choice. I want to build a very light RV-9A so I am
looking for info on other flying RV-9A with various engines.
The format I am requesting is as follows;
Please tell me your empty weight (FAA definition) of finished airplane.
Include if you will the weights on each wheel.
Please tell me your engine choice with complete designation of engine i.e.
Lycoming 0-320 E2D!
Please tell me the speed performance at pressure altitude of 8,000 feet and
75% power if you can get it!
Any other info that you feel important or interesting to help make the
choice.
Anyone have a flying RV-9A sporting the Eggenfellner 2.5 Subie? If so how
does it perform?
Thank you-all very much for helping out.
Vic Jacko
Roswell, NM
505-622-8513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
Yes there are, but you would have better luck getting an answer to this
question on that newsgroup. (subaruaircraft(at)yahoogroups.com)
You do have to join though. If you are interested at all in that
engine, join and communicate.
I will use the Eggenfellner engine package, but am not flying yet.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Vic Jacko wrote:
>
>Anyone have a flying RV-9A sporting the Eggenfellner 2.5 Subie? If so how
>does it perform?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
I dunno,,, my RV-9E is fast and so quiet it's spooky.
Might be an interesting vehicle to fly around Roswell
particularly if you paint it florescent green.
I agree with Richard. Tune into the newsgroup if you
want loads of detail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
FCS, will you please tell me the info on your W & B on your 9A powered by
the "E" engine..
Also the performance at 8,000 feet at 75 % power to include fuel burn.
Thanks
Alien First Class Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice
>
>
> I dunno,,, my RV-9E is fast and so quiet it's spooky.
> Might be an interesting vehicle to fly around Roswell
> particularly if you paint it florescent green.
>
> I agree with Richard. Tune into the newsgroup if you
> want loads of detail.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Although this is not exactly the way I did mine, let me make this
suggestion.
You need to have both wings on to set the sweep and to make sure that they
are square to the fuse. At the same time you can set the incidence and
drill the bolt hole where the rear spar attaches to the F705 frame. The
wings don't have to be permanently mounted for this-just in their proper
position. In my case, I used regular bolts instead of the close tolerance
bolts you will use to permanently attach the wings and after setting sweep
and incidence drilled a #30 pilot hole through the rear spar/fuse attach
point. The plan was to double check it when the wings were permanently
attached and drill out the pilot hole to accommodate the bolt. Cut the fuel
and vent lines to required length, drill the pilot holes to match the belly
skin to the lower wing skin, drill the bracket attaching the fuel tank to
the fuse, and then remove the wings and go back to building in cramped
quarters.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
> Hello all list readers... I am at the point in my construction where I
> should be mounting the wings to set the angle of incidence, etc.
> Unfortunately my fuse is being built in a very small basement and is very
> hard to remove. What I would like to do is complete the fuse in the
> basement, remove it and then mount the wings. Has anyone done this?
Looking
> for advice from someone who has gone this route and any problems they
might
> have run into. The biggest problem seems to be setting up the fuel line
and
> electrical routing.
> Thanks for the help.
> Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
Bryan...... I think what you are asking is, do you need to fit the wings now,
and remove them before you finish the plane.
I built the plane and never fitted the wings untill final assembly at the airport.
You will have to slide them in and out a couple of times to fit the fuel
lines and do the nutplates on the belly skin/wing root fairing. But there is
no reason to haul your fuselage out of the basement to do it now. Unless of
course you want to be sure it will COME out of the basement without foundation
work! You know the old stories.
In fact, there once was a short film by the EAA called "How Are You Going to Get
it Out of the Basement." A true story of someone who had to excavate an entire
foundation wall to extricate their plane. I hope you don't end up that way!
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: BFlood@Sauer-Danfoss.com
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:37 AM
Subject: RV9-List:
Hello all list readers... I am at the point in my construction where I
should be mounting the wings to set the angle of incidence, etc.
Unfortunately my fuse is being built in a very small basement and is very
hard to remove. What I would like to do is complete the fuse in the
basement, remove it and then mount the wings. Has anyone done this? Looking
for advice from someone who has gone this route and any problems they might
have run into. The biggest problem seems to be setting up the fuel line and
electrical routing.
Thanks for the help.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Bryan
Just make sure that you have correct spacing between the front and rear
sections of the center section spar as you are riveting them in place.
There was a recent post about a builder using wood spacers and clamping them
too tight. End result was having to drill out the skin rivets and open the
gap slightly to allow the wing spar stub to enter. Happy building.
Dean
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List:
>
> Bryan...... I think what you are asking is, do you need to fit the wings
now, and remove them before you finish the plane.
>
> I built the plane and never fitted the wings untill final assembly at the
airport. You will have to slide them in and out a couple of times to fit
the fuel lines and do the nutplates on the belly skin/wing root fairing.
But there is no reason to haul your fuselage out of the basement to do it
now. Unless of course you want to be sure it will COME out of the basement
without foundation work! You know the old stories.
>
> In fact, there once was a short film by the EAA called "How Are You Going
to Get it Out of the Basement." A true story of someone who had to excavate
an entire foundation wall to extricate their plane. I hope you don't end up
that way!
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: BFlood@Sauer-Danfoss.com
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:37 AM
> Subject: RV9-List:
>
>
> Hello all list readers... I am at the point in my construction where I
> should be mounting the wings to set the angle of incidence, etc.
> Unfortunately my fuse is being built in a very small basement and is
very
> hard to remove. What I would like to do is complete the fuse in the
> basement, remove it and then mount the wings. Has anyone done this?
Looking
> for advice from someone who has gone this route and any problems they
might
> have run into. The biggest problem seems to be setting up the fuel line
and
> electrical routing.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Bryan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivo.welch(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 01/08/04 |
what is the difference in price of insurance for the eggenfellner engine vs.
the lycoming? sincerely, /iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
01/09/2004 05:21:35 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/09/2004 05:21:35 PM
Ivo,
Talking to my agent with Falcon, the engine decision is more of a yes/no
issue whether they will insure or not rather than a cost issue. The major
cost appears to be in the number of hours the pilot has in Total Time,
Time in Type, etc. Before first flight, the cost would have been
$2400.00 for me with 6 hours in an RV. After flying off the 40, the price
was about $1200.00 for the same insurance.
I was a special case because I was the second customer to fly the Subie
and Falcon still was not sure if they were going to insure the package at
all. The decision to cover by Falcon did not come down until after I had
my time flown off.
Flight advisor makes a difference. Transition time makes a difference.
Total time and time in type makes a difference.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
ivo welch
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
01/09/2004 09:22 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 01/08/04
what is the difference in price of insurance for the eggenfellner engine
vs.
the lycoming? sincerely, /iaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
Vic, as mentioned before, you're in the wrong newsgroup for Eggenfellner
information, which is readily available in abundance.
To answer your question, mine is one of about four RV-9E's flying with the
2.5L non-supercharged E-motor. While it is factory rated for 165hp, we do
not operate the engine at the peak RPM required to achieve this. Not having
a dyno on hand, my best estimate is that the usable horsepower is around
150hp. My plane is on the very heavy side at 1200lbs, but that has more to
do with my tastes in avionics and upholstery than engines. I have a full
stack, EFIS, full set of backup instruments (primary six), CD, wood trim,
leather upholstery and on and on. Hey, what can I say, I like to be
comfortable as I zip around this country!
My W&B is within specifications, but I did have to add 10lbs of ballast in
the tail cone to achieve my most forward CG limit. Again, this was due to
all the above and has nothing to do with engine selection. Had I simply
mounted one of my redundant batteries further back instead of on the
firewall, the balast would not be required. In fact, now that I've logged
over 100 hours, I may remove the balast anyway since the plane demonstrates
wonderful flying characteristics. I can't provide numbers for other
peoples 9E's, but I know most are checking in around 1130 lbs.
As for performance, flying solo, I can stand her on end on takeoffs, maxing
out my VSI at 2200fpm. A typical "normal" takeoff will achieve about
1400fpm at 85 to 90 mph. My max recorded cruise performance, 4-way GPS, is
about 170 mph, a little slower than others have reported, but well within my
expectations. With the supercharger option, people report 205+ mph. For
the normally aspirated engine, altitude has shown minimal effect on top
speed. Lower altitude seems to be offset by higher performance and vise
versa. My tests were performed at 4, 8, and 10K with a variation of only 3
mph. The supercharged version has been tested up to 18000' with climb rate
to spare. There are also several new engine models, both 4 and 6 cylinder
types, which have not be characterized yet.
Bottom line is, I love this engine and airframe combination. It is smooth,
quiet, economical, looks great, meets my every expection, and turns heads
wherever I go.
Hope that helps. If you need more testimonials, just tune into the other
newsgroup.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight an Balance/ Engine Choice |
Gary....I'm really glad you are very happy with your engine choice and how it
performs, the noise level, and all. As you say, that is the real bottom line in
this whole thing.
For a rough, not too scientific comparison, here is what I am seeing. This is
at a field elevation of 4,000 msl or so. I am running just a little 0-320 E2D
150 HP Lycoming with an Ed Sterba Fixed wood prop.
My empty weight is 1032lbs (due to the engine?). This is with everything but
paint, one battery, and fairly simple panel. I have thick sound deadening
insulation, carpets front and back, and a low noise level. I have DJ's seats
from Cleveland, and am also very comfy.
My weight and balance is within specs with no ballast with the extremes of an
80 lb pilot, full fuel and no baggage, or 450 lbs of people, full or empty
tanks, and 100 lbs of baggage.
I can peg the VSI by pulling back on the stick also, and a "normal takeoff"
solo will show about 1600 fpm at 110 mph at this elevation on a mildly warm
day. It climbs very well anywhere from 80 to 120 mph. I have seen a steady 1000
fpm solo at 12,000 ft. My full bore speed at 5,000 ft shows right at 190 mph
(two-way GPS in little or no wind). I prefer to run it easier for cruise,
especially if it is bumpy. I really like an easy cruise setting of about 18
inches, 150 indicated, a bit over 165 true, and about 2150 rpm. This gives me
a consistent fuel burn of 5 to 5.5 gallons per hour. Performance with a full
sized passenger is not much different, except for a slightly longer takeoff
roll and slightly reduced climb rate.
I am really happy with my setup also. Again, this is the goal. These are such
good aiplanes that they do very well on moderate power. They are just
delightful to fly, and very well mannered while still being very sporty.
There are some real advantages to liquid cooling, especially in colder
climates. I am as yet unaware of any Subaru installations that are as light as
a comparable Lycoming installation. But again, comparing just on the basis of
cold numbers doesn't tell the whole story.
Either way, you'll have a great airplane. Spam drivers probably get tired of
hearing RV guys talk, but once you get 20 or 30 hours in one, you'll know why.
Gary
Quoting Gary Newsted :
>
> Vic, as mentioned before, you're in the wrong newsgroup for Eggenfellner
> information, which is readily available in abundance.
>
> To answer your question, mine is one of about four RV-9E's flying with the
> 2.5L non-supercharged E-motor. While it is factory rated for 165hp, we do
> not operate the engine at the peak RPM required to achieve this. Not having
> a dyno on hand, my best estimate is that the usable horsepower is around
> 150hp. My plane is on the very heavy side at 1200lbs, but that has more to
> do with my tastes in avionics and upholstery than engines. I have a full
> stack, EFIS, full set of backup instruments (primary six), CD, wood trim,
> leather upholstery and on and on. Hey, what can I say, I like to be
> comfortable as I zip around this country!
>
> My W&B is within specifications, but I did have to add 10lbs of ballast in
> the tail cone to achieve my most forward CG limit. Again, this was due to
> all the above and has nothing to do with engine selection. Had I simply
> mounted one of my redundant batteries further back instead of on the
> firewall, the balast would not be required. In fact, now that I've logged
> over 100 hours, I may remove the balast anyway since the plane demonstrates
> wonderful flying characteristics. I can't provide numbers for other
> peoples 9E's, but I know most are checking in around 1130 lbs.
>
> As for performance, flying solo, I can stand her on end on takeoffs, maxing
> out my VSI at 2200fpm. A typical "normal" takeoff will achieve about
> 1400fpm at 85 to 90 mph. My max recorded cruise performance, 4-way GPS, is
> about 170 mph, a little slower than others have reported, but well within my
> expectations. With the supercharger option, people report 205+ mph. For
> the normally aspirated engine, altitude has shown minimal effect on top
> speed. Lower altitude seems to be offset by higher performance and vise
> versa. My tests were performed at 4, 8, and 10K with a variation of only 3
> mph. The supercharged version has been tested up to 18000' with climb rate
> to spare. There are also several new engine models, both 4 and 6 cylinder
> types, which have not be characterized yet.
>
> Bottom line is, I love this engine and airframe combination. It is smooth,
> quiet, economical, looks great, meets my every expection, and turns heads
> wherever I go.
>
> Hope that helps. If you need more testimonials, just tune into the other
> newsgroup.
>
> Gary
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | EAA technical review |
This morning my -9 project (empennage and first wing) was inspected by
our chapter's technical advisor.
He stated that the log should include the following entry after each
mile stone:
Completed and inspected the HS.
Lucky for me, my log is in Excel so adding such lines won't be a big
deal.
His other bit of advice was include myself in more of the pictures, not
just pictures of airplane parts.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
Closing the first fuel tank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
I seem tp be getting in a tangle with somthing that ought to be simple.
There are 6 stainless tubes which slide into the three bits of rubber tube
that make the mountings for the exhaust. Can anyone give me an idea of how
long the vertical elements were (hole center to hole center) when it was all
in the right place? Did you shorten the stainless tubes to around 3" overall
from 5"? Did the horizontal mounting end up clear below the mixture cable?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
exhaust
UK
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
, "RV10 Group"
| Subject: | Swivel head pop riveter |
Fellow builders,
Harbor Freight has their swivel head pop riveter on sale for $4.99. It appears
to be very good quality and for this price you can't go wrong. If you are not
familiar with the swivel head design it is rather clever. It allows you to
adjust "swivel" the head so that you can gain access to pop rivets in locations
where the standard pop riveter can't.
Paul Merems (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/11/04 |
Steve,
I recently installed my exhaust on a O-320 D1A. I cut the stainless
tubes down from their delivered length (4.5 ?)
to about 3 incheds. This works well. I ended up with approx 1 inch of
tube in the rubber tubing on each leg.
The horizontal tube ran under the mixture and throttle cables just above
the nose gear leg.
Note: You should mount the cabin heat muff first since these exhaust
hangers will have to go around it. Ask
me how I know. :-)
Good Luck
>________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
>Subject: RV9-List: exhaust
>
>
>I seem tp be getting in a tangle with somthing that ought to be simple.
>
>There are 6 stainless tubes which slide into the three bits of rubber tube
>that make the mountings for the exhaust. Can anyone give me an idea of how
>long the vertical elements were (hole center to hole center) when it was all
>in the right place? Did you shorten the stainless tubes to around 3" overall
>from 5"? Did the horizontal mounting end up clear below the mixture cable?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>#90360
>exhaust
>UK
>
>
>
--
David Edgemon
Summit Research Corp.
Huntsville Al.
"On the side of the software box, in the 'System Requirements' section,
it said 'Requires Windows 95 or better'. So I installed Linux."
-Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"rvyahoo" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
List,
Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Substitute Pop Rivet? |
Can I substitute a CS 4-4 pop rivet for a AN 470-4-4 in terms of strength? (the
parts are a -9 elevator spar to tip ribs). I would ask Van's but it is a long
weekend. Thanks in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings (and some left over parts) with Fuselage ordered. DO
NOT ARCHIVE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Anyone know what the current draw on the flap motor and the Facit fuel pump
is? Thanks, Steve.
RV9a
Engine plumbing & FF electrics
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Karmy" <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Draw |
I used a 3A fuse for the fuel pump.
and a 10A fuse for the flaps, however I don't think they draw
more than 3-4A.
- Andy
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 22:09:25 -0000
>
>Anyone know what the current draw on the flap motor and
the Facit fuel pump
>is? Thanks, Steve.
>
>RV9a
>Engine plumbing & FF electrics
>
>---
>
>
>_-
======================================
==================================
Contributions
other
>_-
======================================
==================================
>_-
======================================
==================================
subscription
List.htm
rv9-list
rv9-list
report
>_-
======================================
==================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Current Draw |
Hi, Steve. When I was building, I measured the current to run them at 1 1/2
amps for the fuel pump, and 1 amp for the flaps with no load.....No fuel in the
lines. I tried putting a load on the flaps with my hand, and it went up to
about 2 amps. Non-scientific. I used fuses of 5 amps for each of them. It
has worked fine, even when I misbehaved by lowering the flaps at 110 mph.
Gary
Quoting Steve Sampson :
>
> Anyone know what the current draw on the flap motor and the Facit fuel pump
> is? Thanks, Steve.
>
> RV9a
> Engine plumbing & FF electrics
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | all electric panel |
the current RViator listed several "all electric" panels. being in the thinking
mode about my panel and planning to use the Dynon 10 EFIS any pictures that lister
could provide will be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | all electric panel |
Take a look at my www.blueskyaviation.net I have several panels with the
Dynon and BMA EFIS 1, soon to have the GRT EFIS. By the way, when in doubt
go with the CNX-80 GPS/COM what a great radio, the best I have ever
installed - bar none.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: RV9-List: all electric panel
the current RViator listed several "all electric" panels. being in the
thinking mode about my panel and planning to use the Dynon 10 EFIS any
pictures that lister could provide will be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | all electric panel |
thanks noel
>
>
> Take a look at my www.blueskyaviation.net I have several panels with the
> Dynon and BMA EFIS 1, soon to have the GRT EFIS. By the way, when in doubt
> go with the CNX-80 GPS/COM what a great radio, the best I have ever
> installed - bar none.
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
> To: rv9- list
> Subject: RV9-List: all electric panel
>
>
>
> the current RViator listed several "all electric" panels. being in the
> thinking mode about my panel and planning to use the Dynon 10 EFIS any
> pictures that lister could provide will be helpful.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
A few weeks ago I landed and refilled in Deming, NM, on my way from Texas to
AZ. After takeoff, at about 1200 ft AGL or so, I noticed fuel streaming down
the right wing. Normally I sit low enough that I can't see the fuel cap on
that wing but when I sat up a bit I could see that fuel seemed to be sort
of bubbling out of the center of the cap. After landing I was unable to see
any reason for this-the cap was seated and latched just as always. I removed
it, cleaned of the o-ring around the outside and replaced it. No problems
afterward and it has never recurred even though I always check after takeoff
and every now and again in the air.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Shimmy |
I also had a fore-and-aft movement of my nose gear leg that seemed to be
caused by the steel tube insert that holds the upper end of the nose gear
leg in the motor mount being a few thousanths large at the lower end. The
vibration occured as the mains touched but before the nose wheel would
touch. Replacing that steel tube insert cured the problem.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Yep, this happens to me too whenever the tanks are full. There doesn't
seem to be a way to prevent it other than leaving the level down a bit. I
tried tightening the center nut, but it doesn't budge, and as you say, it
appears to be leakage around the center bolt anyway. If I ever find
alternative caps that fit the stock neck, I'll swap them out. You might be
able to machine a groove for a small o-ring around the center bolt if you're
into a mini-project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Remove the nut on the bottom of the cap. Now while holding the top of
the cap unscrew the bottom of the cap. The nut is just a stop nut. The
bottom of the cap is threaded onto the shaft. There is an O-ring on the
shaft also, well, at least on mine there is. Lots of corrosion happens
inside the cap so this is a good time to clean them up. Goober
everything up with fuel lube and put it all back together. Don't put the
nut on until you have adjusted the O-ring tension by screwing the bottom
of the cap closer to the top. A little trial and error works here. Once
satisfied that all is well replace the lock nut on the bottom.
My caps have set out in some torrential rain and never leaked. I don't
check the fuel level visually after a rain as there is water standing in
the groove around the cap and removing the cap would allow the water
into the tank. Keep the orings slathered in a light layer of fuel lube
and you should have leak free caps. At least it works for me.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Gary Newsted wrote:
>
>Yep, this happens to me too whenever the tanks are full. There doesn't
>seem to be a way to prevent it other than leaving the level down a bit. I
>tried tightening the center nut, but it doesn't budge, and as you say, it
>appears to be leakage around the center bolt anyway. If I ever find
>alternative caps that fit the stock neck, I'll swap them out. You might be
>able to machine a groove for a small o-ring around the center bolt if you're
>into a mini-project.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Shimmy |
Albert..... you lost me on that one. I was unaware that there is an insert in
the nose gear socket. I thought the gear leg just fit directly into the steel
tube that is a welded part of the motor mount.
I, too have found that if I fill my tanks too near the bottom of the filler neck
I get a small amount of fuel streaming back from the cap for a bit on takeoff.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 2:19 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV-List: Shimmy
I also had a fore-and-aft movement of my nose gear leg that seemed to be
caused by the steel tube insert that holds the upper end of the nose gear
leg in the motor mount being a few thousanths large at the lower end. The
vibration occured as the mains touched but before the nose wheel would
touch. Replacing that steel tube insert cured the problem.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Shimmy |
When Van's have the motor mount welded up, the socket for the nose gear leg
is made up of a long tube that has 2 smaller inserts or sleeves welded
inside of it-one at the top and the other at the bottom end. Unless you have
a reason to be replacing one or both of those inserts because of a loose
fit, you would not likely ever find that out. BTW, it take a real hard
bounce on the nose gear to create a loose fitting nose gear leg socket. As
they say, don't ask me how I know.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: RV-List: Shimmy
> Albert..... you lost me on that one. I was unaware that there is an
insert in the nose gear socket. I thought the gear leg just fit directly
into the steel tube that is a welded part of the motor mount.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Gary
As some of the others have stated on the various RV lists and as I
accidentally discovered when leak checking my tanks, the center nut is a
locking nut. Loosen the lock nut and you will be able to adjust the sealing
tension by rotating the main body in relation to the lever.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: RV filler caps leaking
>
> Yep, this happens to me too whenever the tanks are full. There doesn't
> seem to be a way to prevent it other than leaving the level down a bit. I
> tried tightening the center nut, but it doesn't budge, and as you say, it
> appears to be leakage around the center bolt anyway. If I ever find
> alternative caps that fit the stock neck, I'll swap them out. You might
be
> able to machine a groove for a small o-ring around the center bolt if
you're
> into a mini-project.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Steve Glasgow
Subject: N123SG Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/willfly@carolina.rr.com.02.22.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
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5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Shimmy |
Okay, now I get it. I recall the collars at the top and bottom. But since
they are welded in, they must not be too easy to replace. Odd that you were
feeling some shake before the nose gear came down.
I get a little minor, short duration shimmy at times on rollout even though my
damper is set as the instructions say, but I think it is from a wavy runway
surface. Most airports I don't notice it, and it is not bothersome.
Thanks for the tip, Albert. That is a new one on me.
Gary
Quoting Albert Gardner :
>
> When Van's have the motor mount welded up, the socket for the nose gear leg
> is made up of a long tube that has 2 smaller inserts or sleeves welded
> inside of it-one at the top and the other at the bottom end. Unless you have
> a reason to be replacing one or both of those inserts because of a loose
> fit, you would not likely ever find that out. BTW, it take a real hard
> bounce on the nose gear to create a loose fitting nose gear leg socket. As
> they say, don't ask me how I know.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV filler caps leaking |
Thanks for the cap info! It never dawned on me that the nut was just a
jamb nut! I took your advice, and now I'll just have to do some flying on
this beautiful day to check it out! This also saves me from having to
clean fuel stains off the wings periodically. Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Shimmy |
Albert - a couple of questions on that. How did you get the old one out?
Mine is so tight I was not sure if it was an insert or somehow machined
thart way. Were VANS able to sell you a new insert or did you get one made
up? Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV-List: Shimmy
I also had a fore-and-aft movement of my nose gear leg that seemed to be
caused by the steel tube insert that holds the upper end of the nose gear
leg in the motor mount being a few thousanths large at the lower end. The
vibration occured as the mains touched but before the nose wheel would
touch. Replacing that steel tube insert cured the problem.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Possible elevator defect |
Hi all,
I was installing my elevator trim the other day and found that I apparently
received incorrect platenuts in my emp kit. I seem to have gotten platenuts
for -8 screws instead of the supplied -6 screws. The -6 screws go into
the -08 platenuts just fine, but strip out if you tighten them hard...
it was not immidiately obvious to me that there was a problem until
I compared the size of the installed nuts with -06 nuts from my wing kit.
(There are not supposed to be any -08 platenuts in the emp kit, so I
don't see how else I would have accidentally installed the oversize
platenuts on my elevator)
I did alert Van's about this, and they said they would check their
stock. They did not offer a workaround, but I plan to just redimple
the access plate for -8...the 8 screws just barely fit through the
existing holes. Then hopefully the dimples on the elevator itself
will enlarge on their own when I install the screw.
Anyway, I'd recommend that you check your elevator and make sure you
can snug up those screws nice and tight. It would probably be bad if
that plate (and servo) dropped off in flight.
Paul (90804)
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible elevator defect |
Paul,
I received BOTH sizes nutplates with my kit, #8's in the bags with the main
part of the kit and #6's in the box with the trim motor. I used the 6's
and am happy with the way everything went together. I am just beginning to
realize that the 8's are extra parts at this point. I haven't found a use
for them and am just about done with the emp. I don't recall if the
inventory called them out as 8's or 6's. I wouldn't have caught the
problem then as they are close in size.
Bob Kelly
90854
On 24-Jan-04, Paul Eastham wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I was installing my elevator trim the other day and found that I
> apparently received incorrect platenuts in my emp kit. I seem to have
> gotten platenuts for -8 screws instead of the supplied -6 screws. The -6
> screws go into the -08 platenuts just fine, but strip out if you tighten
> them hard... it was not immidiately obvious to me that there was a problem
> until I compared the size of the installed nuts with -06 nuts from my wing
> kit.
>
> (There are not supposed to be any -08 platenuts in the emp kit, so I
> don't see how else I would have accidentally installed the oversize
> platenuts on my elevator)
>
> I did alert Van's about this, and they said they would check their
> stock. They did not offer a workaround, but I plan to just redimple
> the access plate for -8...the 8 screws just barely fit through the
> existing holes. Then hopefully the dimples on the elevator itself
> will enlarge on their own when I install the screw.
>
> Anyway, I'd recommend that you check your elevator and make sure you
> can snug up those screws nice and tight. It would probably be bad if
> that plate (and servo) dropped off in flight.
>
> Paul (90804)
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Regards
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Strong's" <tstrong(at)ida.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage tail bottom skin |
What is the order for the lower J stiffener, tail bottom skin and aft side
skin? I have the J stiffner next to the Bulkhead then the Tail bottom skin
and then the aft side skin. That seems the logical way but it leaves a
small step as the J stiffner goes forward from the tail bottom skin to the
aft side skin.
Thanks, Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Documentation |
I am documenting my electrical wiring with drawing freeware from a
company named ExpressPCB. The software is well documented, easy to learn
and use, and works well. It can be downloaded from
http://www.expresspcb.com/ . Downloading gives you two programs, the
ExpressSCH is the one you need for drawing schematics.
Leland
Fitting the Cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Documentation |
You're right, Leland. I've used that software with Windows 95 and it works
well. They also have user manuals that you can download or view on screen.
Dick Jones 90062
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Electrical Documentation
>
> I am documenting my electrical wiring with drawing freeware from a
> company named ExpressPCB. The software is well documented, easy to learn
> and use, and works well. It can be downloaded from
> http://www.expresspcb.com/ . Downloading gives you two programs, the
> ExpressSCH is the one you need for drawing schematics.
> Leland
> Fitting the Cowling
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blanton Fortson <blanton(at)alaska.net> |
)
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Seat heat....the finale ; |
)
Heated seats can be a good thing.
The Gerbings stuff works well, too.
www.gerbings.com.
I was driving a Volvo Cross Country wagon once in the winter here in
Alaska when I noticed a wisp of smoke issuing forth from between my
legs. The smoke rapidly began to increase. I bailed out and watched the
car turn into a bonfire within two minutes. It seems as if the foam in
the leather upholstered Volvo seat cushions was not exactly
fire-retardant. Ouch. Car totaled. If that had happened in an airplane
I'd be dead.
12v Heated seats are a high amperage deal. Plenty of energy ignite
flameable materials if there is a short or other problem. Before I
installed a seat heater in an airplane I'd extensively torch test all
related materials (cushions, uphostery, etc.)
While I'm on the subject of fire, I'll share with you one of my
personal risk management strategies. For airplane use I wear only
natural fibers, particularly next to my skin. That means Duofold
(cotton/wool) longjohns or silk underwea, wool pants are best but
cotton jeans will do. NO poly next to skin. In an otherwise survivable
flash flash fire poly can melt to your skin causing a sort of burn
which you may not recover from.
B.
On Jan 25, 2004, at 12:01 PM, Norman Hunger wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman Hunger"
>
>> Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
>>
>> I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
>> displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state
>> that
>> only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
>> folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
>> dealerships.
>
> In my experience, the car dealerships do not do this work. They farm
> it out.
> Ask where they get their upholstery work done. Better yet, use the
> yellow
> pages and start phoning around. Look up "Auto Upholstery". One more
> thing,
> don't tell them you are building an airplane as many shops have a
> liability
> fear. Tell them you are building a street rod. It should not take very
> long
> to find some one in your area who will sell you a kit. Took me less
> than ten
> minutes.
>
> Norman Hunger
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | F-989 Elevator pushrod |
I have started to assemble the F-989 (forward elevator pushrod) and have
discovered that it will not go through the bulkhead holes between the
stick assembly and the central bellcrank. That is, when assembled it is
too long to slide into position. If you slide it in from the rear, it
hits the aft bulkhead before it is far enough forward to slide it
through. It will (barely) slide in if I leave off one end assembly and
remove the ball end from the other.
Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
Comments?
Dick Tasker, 90573
Finishing the fuselage (when the temperature goes above 60 in the
basement anyway)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage tail bottom skin |
Tom
I believe that you are referring to the area just forward of the F-710
bulkhead where the forward edge of the .040 tail bottom skin ends and leaves
a .040 gap that transitions to .000 at the next rivet forward in the J
stiffener. If that is correct, I have the very same thing and the slight
angular deviation in the J stiffener flange is nothing to be concerned
about. Your assembly order is correct. Please let me know if I am looking at
the wrong area.
Dean Van Winkle
Retired Aero Engr
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Strong's" <tstrong(at)ida.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fuselage tail bottom skin
>
> What is the order for the lower J stiffener, tail bottom skin and aft side
> skin? I have the J stiffner next to the Bulkhead then the Tail bottom
skin
> and then the aft side skin. That seems the logical way but it leaves a
> small step as the J stiffner goes forward from the tail bottom skin to the
> aft side skin.
>
> Thanks, Tom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
Had the same problem on my RV6. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the
bulkhead behind the baggage bulk head. The too long tube goes through the
hole instead of stopping when it hits the bulk head.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond ok
RV6
N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: F-989 Elevator pushrod
>
> I have started to assemble the F-989 (forward elevator pushrod) and have
> discovered that it will not go through the bulkhead holes between the
> stick assembly and the central bellcrank. That is, when assembled it is
> too long to slide into position. If you slide it in from the rear, it
> hits the aft bulkhead before it is far enough forward to slide it
> through. It will (barely) slide in if I leave off one end assembly and
> remove the ball end from the other.
>
> Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
> rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
> place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
>
> Comments?
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Finishing the fuselage (when the temperature goes above 60 in the
> basement anyway)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
Richard E. Tasker wrote:
> Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
> rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
> place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
>
> Comments?
I have a couple of suggestions before you install this
pushrod.
First, you might find it difficult (impossible?) to bolt
up the rod end bearing to the control stick weldment while
everything is mounted in the plane. It is tricky to get
both washers in if it is too tight. Instead, install this
rod end on the bench without the pushrod attached, then
assemble the pushrod in the plane later; it should be short
enough to drop in with one (or both) ends off.
Second, if you are installing an aileron trim servo, do
this now before the elevator pushrod is installed. Otherwise,
it will be nearly impossible to drill holes and tighten down
the screws to hold the servo in place. As it is, you will
probably need to run down to Sears and get a really short, or
an offset screwdriver anyway to fit between the seat ribs.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - plumbing/electrical/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | roll bar, slider etc |
the bottom plates of the roll bar rest about 3/16 inside of the outside skin, is
this more or less correct?
when I place the slider tracks at the recommended width the outside of the track
lines up perfectly with the the plates. This leaves the slider side bars about
1/8-3/16" inside the outside skin. I can form the side bars to be a uniform
distance inside and "follow" the longeron in that way. I am I conflicted or
is this what others have found?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
With the rod ends unscrewed you can insert the control rod from inside the
tail section. You may need to pull the bulkhead rearward just a little to
let it drop in. Drilling an access hole is OK too, but shouldn't be
necessary. A handy trick for inserting washers in hard to reach places,
is to simply fold a piece of tape over the washer or stack of washers to
give you something to hold on to, then after inserting the bolt, pull the
tape off before tightening. A small magnetic wand does the job too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | roll bar, slider etc |
The side rails (where the rollers travel) must be parallel and straight.
Do not try to form them to follow the curvature of the fuselage. Set the
front width correctly, then make the rear the same width. You may need to
file/sand a small flat spot on the outside of the rails at the rear.
Also, when working with these rails, occassionally blast them clean with
air and run a rag or Q-tip etc along them to remove metal chips. If you
don't they will errode your nylon rollers pretty quickly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
01/26/2004 05:50:55 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/26/2004 05:50:55 PM
Also you can get hemostats about everywhere and a collection of different
types will help reach into hard to get to places. I have one with a loop
end that holds nuts quite well to get them started on a bolt.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
Anyone have any idea how much to torque bolts holding the plastic bearing
blocks used in the manual flap handle and rudder pedal mountings? I
tightend them to the standard torques for the size of bolt used but that
seems to compress the plastic quite a bit. Maybe it's not a problem but I
would like to know for sure, any takers?
Also the bellcrank bolt torques, I started tightening the elevator bellcrank
down to 75 inch pounds but the bolt looked like it was starting to bow so I
backed off. Anyone know what these assemblies are suppose to be torqued to
(recalling that they are only supported in the center by thick wall aluminum
tubes and the ball bearing assembly)? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A, canopy headaches
PS: Anyone had to hack 1 inch out of both rear bows on your old style canopy
frame? I did and I let Van's know I wasn't too happy about it either (I'm
not supposed to manufacture small parts they are)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Construction - Gluing it in place? |
After reading the "Nuts & Bolts - Craft & Technique: Fitting Plexiglas Canopies"
in the January 2004 issue of EAA Sport Aviation, I contacted the Sika Corporation
for their recommendations.
Here is what they said:
Dave,
I read the article about the RV canopy installation with Sikaflex. Let me
start by noting that we have no experience with aircraft applications and
any of the challenges found in such an application. That being said, the
following link is a set of installation instructions for using Sikaflex
295UV for marine windows. The steps would be the same for your
application.
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-marine/ipd-marine-window.htm
To purchase this product, contact Merritt Supply at 954-946-5350.
Regards,
Steve Padgett
Sika Corp.
Rather than use Blind Rivets to hold the Plexiglas to the Canopy Frame & Roll Bar,
I decided to drill & tap all of these holes for #6 SS Flathead Bolts, so I
intend to use the Sikaflex-295 UV in conjunction with the screws already installed.
After the Sikafles-295 UV has cured, I will "back-off" the screws slightly to relieve
any pressure they were applying to the Plexiglas.
I will also use the same material as a "sealer" between all of the Canopy Skirts
(side & aft) and the Plexiglas Canopy to prevent rain water from running into
the cockpit.
Dave
90347
N347SD (Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Anybody else have trouble getting the j-stringer fastener line to
line up with the holes in the skin? The line, drawn 3/8" from the aft
end as instructed, ends up pretty far forward on the stringer, near
the bend, and the ribs don't allow me to push the stringer aft enough
to line up with the holes. It's not off by that much when the stringer
is pushed firmly against the aft edge of the rib gap, but I can't imagine
that's how it's meant to fit.
I ought to just draw a line on the center of the face of the stringer
and be done with it...
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing j-stringer |
Go ahead, draw that center line, works great.
Glenn in Arizona -9A wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
>
> Anybody else have trouble getting the j-stringer fastener line to
> line up with the holes in the skin? The line, drawn 3/8" from the aft
> end as instructed, ends up pretty far forward on the stringer, near
> the bend, and the ribs don't allow me to push the stringer aft enough
> to line up with the holes. It's not off by that much when the stringer
> is pushed firmly against the aft edge of the rib gap, but I can't imagine
> that's how it's meant to fit.
>
> I ought to just draw a line on the center of the face of the stringer
> and be done with it...
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whither the shop head ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
Any big deciding factor here ?
Regards,
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home (415) 239 4846
Cell (415) 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whither the shop head ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
Any big deciding factor here ?
Regards,
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home (415) 239 4846
Cell (415) 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whither the shop head ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
Any big deciding factor here ?
Regards,
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home (415) 239 4846
Cell (415) 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whither the shop head ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
Any big deciding factor here ?
Regards,
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home (415) 239 4846
Cell (415) 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | installing wing LE ribs |
So what's the secret? My hands are black and blue from trying to
press those guys into the skin. I've been good about fluting and
flanging... I got one in with a lot of struggle but the rest require
at least 100 pounds of pressure to get the bottom flange anywhere
close after clecoing the top flange. I've put some boelube on the
flanges too.
Can't imagine how the tanks are going to be...
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whither the shop head ... |
I believe as a general rule, the machined head goes on the side with thinner
aluminum, but sometimes circumstances make that difficult. So, shop head
,as general rule, goes on thicker material.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6
N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Whither the shop head ...
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
> shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
> the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
> side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
> people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
>
> Any big deciding factor here ?
>
> Regards,
>
> g
>
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Home (415) 239 4846
> Cell (415) 203 9177
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whither the shop head ... |
Two possible deciding factors that I have found:
1. Put the shop head on the side that is not normally visible if you
have a choice (if you are going for looks).
2. Put the shop head on the side with the thickest material so it
doesn't tend to deform the metal as you form the head (if you are going
for function).
3. Put it where it works (sometimes you really don't have a choice).
My $0.02.
Dick Tasker, RV9A 90573
Finishing the fuselage (when it is warm enough...)
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Folks,
>
>Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
>shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
>the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
>side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
>people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
>
>Any big deciding factor here ?
>
>Regards,
>
>g
>
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Home (415) 239 4846
> Cell (415) 203 9177
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: installing wing LE ribs |
Make sure the plastic is off the skin. I used a water soluble cutting
lubricant and it helped things slide into position. once things are dimpled
it goes back together pretty easy.
John Oliveira
Wings done - working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: installing wing LE ribs
>
> So what's the secret? My hands are black and blue from trying to
> press those guys into the skin. I've been good about fluting and
> flanging... I got one in with a lot of struggle but the rest require
> at least 100 pounds of pressure to get the bottom flange anywhere
> close after clecoing the top flange. I've put some boelube on the
> flanges too.
> Can't imagine how the tanks are going to be...
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: installing wing LE ribs |
Paul,
I just recently clecoed my leading edge ribs. After a long while of
struggling and cussing, I finally figured out a "system" that helped me get
the ribs in place. Here is a link to the webpage I posted about it:
http://www.hooverandassociatesinc.com/aviation/RV-9A/wings/leadingEdgeRibSkinClecoing.htm
If the link above is on two lines, you will need to copy the entire link to
get it to work. Hope this helps!
Regards,
Mike
90709 wings, tank ribs in place, looking over at the ProSeal...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: installing wing LE ribs
>
> So what's the secret? My hands are black and blue from trying to
> press those guys into the skin. I've been good about fluting and
> flanging... I got one in with a lot of struggle but the rest require
> at least 100 pounds of pressure to get the bottom flange anywhere
> close after clecoing the top flange. I've put some boelube on the
> flanges too.
> Can't imagine how the tanks are going to be...
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Jackscrew Rotation |
Not too long ago there was a thread about the rod-end bearing lock nut on
the flap screw jack loosening up and allowing the rod-end bearing to
unthread. This allowed the flaps to abruptly retract with a bang.
Disconcerting at the start of an approach, probably much more that that near
the ground. Looking at a friends RV-9A the other day shows that there is a
good solution for that. Vans sells a Flap Positioning System
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1075299887-210-429&browse=airframe&product=fps
part of which is a sliding rod held on the flap screwjack with collars. It
prevents rotation of the extendable portion of the jackscrew is the same way
that torque links prevent rotation of landing gear legs. Making or buying
this part it might be a worthwhile addition to the flap jackscrew.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: installing wing LE ribs |
That sure wasn't elegant (I had to reach quite a bit with the first few
clecos), but it worked! Many thanks!
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> Paul,
>
> I just recently clecoed my leading edge ribs. After a long while of
> struggling and cussing, I finally figured out a "system" that helped me get
> the ribs in place. Here is a link to the webpage I posted about it:
>
> http://www.hooverandassociatesinc.com/aviation/RV-9A/wings/leadingEdgeRibSkinClecoing.htm
>
> If the link above is on two lines, you will need to copy the entire link to
> get it to work. Hope this helps!
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike
> 90709 wings, tank ribs in place, looking over at the ProSeal...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: installing wing LE ribs
>
>
> >
> > So what's the secret? My hands are black and blue from trying to
> > press those guys into the skin. I've been good about fluting and
> > flanging... I got one in with a lot of struggle but the rest require
> > at least 100 pounds of pressure to get the bottom flange anywhere
> > close after clecoing the top flange. I've put some boelube on the
> > flanges too.
> > Can't imagine how the tanks are going to be...
> >
> > Paul
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing j-stringer |
Van's mailed me back and agreed...one of these days I will start
to trust my instincts... :)
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> Go ahead, draw that center line, works great.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
>
>
> >
> > Anybody else have trouble getting the j-stringer fastener line to
> > line up with the holes in the skin? The line, drawn 3/8" from the aft
> > end as instructed, ends up pretty far forward on the stringer, near
> > the bend, and the ribs don't allow me to push the stringer aft enough
> > to line up with the holes. It's not off by that much when the stringer
> > is pushed firmly against the aft edge of the rib gap, but I can't imagine
> > that's how it's meant to fit.
> >
> > I ought to just draw a line on the center of the face of the stringer
> > and be done with it...
> >
> > Paul
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Jackscrew Rotation |
DWG 33, Detal E shows a Safety Wire to prevent the Flap Jack Screw from
spinning and dropping the Rod End Bearing if the Lock Nut gets loose.
I am also using the FPS from Van's, but I don't think it is strong enough to
prevent the Flap Jack Screw from spinning. I have applied "locktite" in
additon to the Safety Wire.
Dave Nicholson
N347SD (Res.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap Jackscrew Rotation
>
> Not too long ago there was a thread about the rod-end bearing lock nut on
> the flap screw jack loosening up and allowing the rod-end bearing to
> unthread. This allowed the flaps to abruptly retract with a bang.
> Disconcerting at the start of an approach, probably much more that that
near
> the ground. Looking at a friends RV-9A the other day shows that there is a
> good solution for that. Vans sells a Flap Positioning System
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1075299887-210-429&bro
wse=airframe&product=fps
> part of which is a sliding rod held on the flap screwjack with collars. It
> prevents rotation of the extendable portion of the jackscrew is the same
way
> that torque links prevent rotation of landing gear legs. Making or buying
> this part it might be a worthwhile addition to the flap jackscrew.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing j-stringer |
I just went by the directions and made the line 3/8" but I had to push the
stringer to get even close. I never did get mine to line up and the stringer
was pushed as far a possible. Anything wrong with having it installed off
the 3/8" line?
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
>
> Van's mailed me back and agreed...one of these days I will start
> to trust my instincts... :)
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> >
> > Go ahead, draw that center line, works great.
> > Glenn in Arizona -9A wings
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Anybody else have trouble getting the j-stringer fastener line to
> > > line up with the holes in the skin? The line, drawn 3/8" from the aft
> > > end as instructed, ends up pretty far forward on the stringer, near
> > > the bend, and the ribs don't allow me to push the stringer aft enough
> > > to line up with the holes. It's not off by that much when the
stringer
> > > is pushed firmly against the aft edge of the rib gap, but I can't
imagine
> > > that's how it's meant to fit.
> > >
> > > I ought to just draw a line on the center of the face of the stringer
> > > and be done with it...
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing j-stringer |
Here is the actual reply from Gus...I think you are fine.
I ended up going with approx 5/16".
| I assume from what you say that a line 5/16-1/4 from the edge
| would work OK. If that is so, go ahead and drill there. Any closer
| than 3/16 to the edge and you will not have enough edge distance.
| As long as the skin looks smooth it is OK, the actual position of
| the J stringer is not critical.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> I just went by the directions and made the line 3/8" but I had to push the
> stringer to get even close. I never did get mine to line up and the stringer
> was pushed as far a possible. Anything wrong with having it installed off
> the 3/8" line?
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
>
>
> >
> > Van's mailed me back and agreed...one of these days I will start
> > to trust my instincts... :)
> >
> > Paul
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> >
> > >
> > > Go ahead, draw that center line, works great.
> > > Glenn in Arizona -9A wings
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV9-List: wing j-stringer
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Anybody else have trouble getting the j-stringer fastener line to
> > > > line up with the holes in the skin? The line, drawn 3/8" from the aft
> > > > end as instructed, ends up pretty far forward on the stringer, near
> > > > the bend, and the ribs don't allow me to push the stringer aft enough
> > > > to line up with the holes. It's not off by that much when the
> stringer
> > > > is pushed firmly against the aft edge of the rib gap, but I can't
> imagine
> > > > that's how it's meant to fit.
> > > >
> > > > I ought to just draw a line on the center of the face of the stringer
> > > > and be done with it...
> > > >
> > > > Paul
> > > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whither the shop head ... |
Given a choice, I put the shop head against the thinner material. If I
have to drill it out, there is less chance of bending the metal when
pushing out the shank after breaking off the shop head.
Richard Scott
Emp
At 08:27 PM 1/27/04, you wrote:
>
>
>Folks,
>
>Trying to figure out which side of the HS-903 rear spar the
>shop head of the AN470AD4 rivets should be. If my reading of
>the drawings is right, the shop head should be on the forward
>side, but I've been scouring around the various blogs and some
>people take the opposite tack and some people mix it up.
>
>Any big deciding factor here ?
>
>Regards,
>
>g
>
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Home (415) 239 4846
> Cell (415) 203 9177
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
okay guys, I need some help getting unflumuxed. been working all week on shaping
the slider bows and have been able to do pretty well on the rear 1/8-3/16 inside
the aft deck skin. the side bows follow the side skin curve but are inset
about 3/16" along their entire length. BUT....
the front bow can be made to follow the arc of the roll bar but it is currently
about 3/4" above the bar at centerline and about 3/8" at 10:00 and 2:00 and 0
at the rollers. If I bring the center down, the corners go further out. cutting
down the tube would bring it in line as would shimming the roll bar, neither
of which is immediately appealing.
TIA for you help.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Wire runs through center section |
I'm starting on my fuselage center section and I've read where most people
wish they would have drilled additional holes for wiring runs.
Ok.. where would you have put them??? I'd like to benefit from those of
have gone before me and drill them now instead of later.
Matthew Brandes
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 91 & 868
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire runs through center section |
Mathew,
I finished my wiring over the holidays and did indeed drill a few extra
holes for wiring.
A lot depends on what you are doing with electronics back in the tail.
Here's what I did.
1. I have the MANUAL elevator trim so no servo wiring but it takes up
one side of the center tunnel.
I placed the strobe supply in the baggage area plus I had wires for
the Dynon external magnetometer
going to the tail.
2. I ran wiing for the magnetometer and power for the strobe supply in
the center tunnel along with the
manual trim cable.
3. I drill holes for snap bushings along both sides of the fuse down
along the area where the flap pushrods
go. This allowed me to run the wing strobe cables under the fuselag
floor and out the aileron pushrod
hole and down the wing. I used 5/8 inch snap bushings which gave
plenty of extra room for the other
odds and ends that you'll forget about until its time to run wires.
Good Luck
P.S.
Oh yeah, I also drilled an additional snap bushing hole in the spar
center section in order to pass the wiring going to
the center tunnel area and out the wings.
I ended up building a main wiring bundle that drops down the firewall
alongside the cabin heater vent area and then
runs alongside the fuel and brake lines. These wires then split up at
the spar with most going through to the floor area
and either out the wings or to the tail.
Hope it helps
>
>I'm starting on my fuselage center section and I've read where most people
>wish they would have drilled additional holes for wiring runs.
>
>Ok.. where would you have put them??? I'd like to benefit from those of
>have gone before me and drill them now instead of later.
>
>Matthew Brandes
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 91 & 868
>www.n523rv.com
>
>
--
David Edgemon
Summit Research Corp.
"Under system requirements it said install Windows 95
or better, so I installed Linux"
Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Kit For Sale |
It is with a heavy heart I post this message to the various lists. Personal
issues (not financial) are forcing me to sell my beloved RV-9A kit. I have
labored over this kit for the past 3 years, and consider it to be a very
well built and good looking airplane. I would love to sell it to someone in
the area who can appreciate some occasional, and FREE, help from me to
complete the kit.
THIS AIRPLANE COULD BE FLYING IN LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS.
You can see some photos and detailed description here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/rv9aforsale.htm
The Kit Includes:
-Eggenfellner Firewall Forward Package - Normally Aspirated (Installed).
-MT 3 Blade Propeller (Still in Crate).
-Altrak Altitude Hold (Installed).
-Trio Avionics Autopilot (Installed).
-Aeroflash Nav and Strobe Lighting.
-Interior by Cleveland Tools with plenty of extra fabric.
-Fuselage is on its gear and Canopy Work is finished with all skirts
installed.
-Modular Panel (Installed), but no instrument holes have been cut out.
-Much more.
Please NO E-MAILS. If you are interested, please call me at 561-641-9737
Thank You
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Hi All,
I've got my first tank clecoed together and on the wing, but after
clecoing through the attach angles and skin-spar platenuts, I still
have about 1/32" gap between the tank skin and top/bottom main skins.
My LE is butting up perfectly by comparison.
Should I try to tighten this up before drilling, or not?
Seems like the platenut-cleco setup is not pulling the skins as
tight as they could be. And then some people in the archives say
a gap is good...?
And now for a gotcha I didn't see in the archives anywhere... I used
to have a 1/8" gap, but it was due to the inside of a few skin-baffle
clecoes just barely impacting the top spar reinforcing bar. I'm
pretty slow, it took me about an hour to realize what was going on!
Tanks, :)
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Kit For Sale |
Are you keeping Affordable Panels going?
Roger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
;
Subject: RV9-List: RV-9A Kit For Sale
>
> It is with a heavy heart I post this message to the various lists.
Personal
> issues (not financial) are forcing me to sell my beloved RV-9A kit. I
have
> labored over this kit for the past 3 years, and consider it to be a very
> well built and good looking airplane. I would love to sell it to someone
in
> the area who can appreciate some occasional, and FREE, help from me to
> complete the kit.
>
> THIS AIRPLANE COULD BE FLYING IN LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS.
>
> You can see some photos and detailed description here:
>
> http://www.affordablepanels.com/rv9aforsale.htm
>
> The Kit Includes:
>
> -Eggenfellner Firewall Forward Package - Normally Aspirated (Installed).
> -MT 3 Blade Propeller (Still in Crate).
> -Altrak Altitude Hold (Installed).
> -Trio Avionics Autopilot (Installed).
> -Aeroflash Nav and Strobe Lighting.
> -Interior by Cleveland Tools with plenty of extra fabric.
> -Fuselage is on its gear and Canopy Work is finished with all skirts
> installed.
> -Modular Panel (Installed), but no instrument holes have been cut out.
> -Much more.
>
> Please NO E-MAILS. If you are interested, please call me at 561-641-9737
>
> Thank You
>
> Fabian
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Kit For Sale |
It was going to be a top choice for me, just wanted to double check and see
if you still liked it, and look at yours.
Back to skin dimpling! (lots of holes you QB guy!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Kit For Sale
>
> Are you keeping Affordable Panels going?
> Roger.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
> To: ; ;
> ;
> Subject: RV9-List: RV-9A Kit For Sale
>
>
> >
> > It is with a heavy heart I post this message to the various lists.
> Personal
> > issues (not financial) are forcing me to sell my beloved RV-9A kit. I
> have
> > labored over this kit for the past 3 years, and consider it to be a very
> > well built and good looking airplane. I would love to sell it to
someone
> in
> > the area who can appreciate some occasional, and FREE, help from me to
> > complete the kit.
> >
> > THIS AIRPLANE COULD BE FLYING IN LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS.
> >
> > You can see some photos and detailed description here:
> >
> > http://www.affordablepanels.com/rv9aforsale.htm
> >
> > The Kit Includes:
> >
> > -Eggenfellner Firewall Forward Package - Normally Aspirated (Installed).
> > -MT 3 Blade Propeller (Still in Crate).
> > -Altrak Altitude Hold (Installed).
> > -Trio Avionics Autopilot (Installed).
> > -Aeroflash Nav and Strobe Lighting.
> > -Interior by Cleveland Tools with plenty of extra fabric.
> > -Fuselage is on its gear and Canopy Work is finished with all skirts
> > installed.
> > -Modular Panel (Installed), but no instrument holes have been cut out.
> > -Much more.
> >
> > Please NO E-MAILS. If you are interested, please call me at
561-641-9737
> >
> > Thank You
> >
> > Fabian
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Kit For Sale |
Yes. As far as assets, Affordable Panels is small so there is no problem
there.
Fabian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Kit For Sale
>
> Are you keeping Affordable Panels going?
> Roger.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
> To: ; ;
> ;
> Subject: RV9-List: RV-9A Kit For Sale
>
>
> >
> > It is with a heavy heart I post this message to the various lists.
> Personal
> > issues (not financial) are forcing me to sell my beloved RV-9A kit. I
> have
> > labored over this kit for the past 3 years, and consider it to be a very
> > well built and good looking airplane. I would love to sell it to
someone
> in
> > the area who can appreciate some occasional, and FREE, help from me to
> > complete the kit.
> >
> > THIS AIRPLANE COULD BE FLYING IN LESS THAN A COUPLE OF MONTHS.
> >
> > You can see some photos and detailed description here:
> >
> > http://www.affordablepanels.com/rv9aforsale.htm
> >
> > The Kit Includes:
> >
> > -Eggenfellner Firewall Forward Package - Normally Aspirated (Installed).
> > -MT 3 Blade Propeller (Still in Crate).
> > -Altrak Altitude Hold (Installed).
> > -Trio Avionics Autopilot (Installed).
> > -Aeroflash Nav and Strobe Lighting.
> > -Interior by Cleveland Tools with plenty of extra fabric.
> > -Fuselage is on its gear and Canopy Work is finished with all skirts
> > installed.
> > -Modular Panel (Installed), but no instrument holes have been cut out.
> > -Much more.
> >
> > Please NO E-MAILS. If you are interested, please call me at
561-641-9737
> >
> > Thank You
> >
> > Fabian
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Paul
I concur with your approach to clamp your rear spar supports in a better
position to remove as much wing twist as possible. I was able to get my
twist down to about 1/2 of the 3/32 allowable. It is difficult to measure
any closer than that.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: wing twist
>
> Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
> and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
> Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
> it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Are your skins clecoed on? Once the skins go on, there should be very
little twist (washout) in the wing. Mine measured .060.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: wing twist
>
> Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
> and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
> Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
> it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Well, the point in the directions where it told me to measure it had
the top skins, LE, and tank on, but bottom skins off. There is quite a lot
of flex still possible in the wing in that configuration.
Paul
>
> Are your skins clecoed on? Once the skins go on, there should be very
> little twist (washout) in the wing. Mine measured .060.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: wing twist
>
>
> >
> > Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
> > and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
> > Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
> > it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
> >
> > Paul
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart+ ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: Canopy and winshield attachment with Sika adhesive.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
Paul,
Mine was off a bit more than I liked (1/4") so I put a .025 thick piece of
aluminum about 1" square under the inboard spar under the top spar
reinforcing bar where the spar contacts my support angle iron to make it
straighten up. Raising one flange of the spar only a little bit makes a big
difference two feet down to the rear spar This worked just fine. I'm within
3/64" now. Hope this helps.
Mike
SC
90709 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing twist
>
> Well, the point in the directions where it told me to measure it had
> the top skins, LE, and tank on, but bottom skins off. There is quite a
lot
> of flex still possible in the wing in that configuration.
>
> Paul
>
> >
> > Are your skins clecoed on? Once the skins go on, there should be very
> > little twist (washout) in the wing. Mine measured .060.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV9-List: wing twist
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
> > > and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
> > > Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
> > > it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
Hi Mike,
That's probably a better idea, especially since I just realized that
my wing stand arms may not be perfectly parallel with each other any
more. My stand has gotten bumped out of it's original position, and
the wood has been drying and warping for a couple of months now...
Thanks
Paul
>
> Paul,
>
> Mine was off a bit more than I liked (1/4") so I put a .025 thick piece of
> aluminum about 1" square under the inboard spar under the top spar
> reinforcing bar where the spar contacts my support angle iron to make it
> straighten up. Raising one flange of the spar only a little bit makes a big
> difference two feet down to the rear spar This worked just fine. I'm within
> 3/64" now. Hope this helps.
>
> Mike
> SC
> 90709 wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing twist
>
>
> >
> > Well, the point in the directions where it told me to measure it had
> > the top skins, LE, and tank on, but bottom skins off. There is quite a
> lot
> > of flex still possible in the wing in that configuration.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > >
> > > Are your skins clecoed on? Once the skins go on, there should be very
> > > little twist (washout) in the wing. Mine measured .060.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RV9-List: wing twist
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Oh, another random question: I checked my wing for twist as instructed
> > > > and found that it had a little more than allowed, about 1/4".
> > > > Unfortunately the manual doesn't say what to do about it...just clamp
> > > > it in a better position on the rear spar supports and move on?
> > > >
> > > > Paul
> > > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
Paul I had the same trouble. The solution I found was in the leading edge ribs.
At the very apex of the rib. The solution was to use the scotchbrite wheel
and round them over at the point where the metal makes a U shape. At that point
the flange is very small and square. Take the rib and round them over, re-cleco
and install. This should make up the small space you need. If not then
lightly tap the end of the rib to seat them into the leading edge. This process
also gave a smooth leading edge without buldges.
Tad Sargent RV&A Fuse
Paul Eastham wrote:
>
>Hi All,
> I've got my first tank clecoed together and on the wing, but after
>clecoing through the attach angles and skin-spar platenuts, I still
>have about 1/32" gap between the tank skin and top/bottom main skins.
>My LE is butting up perfectly by comparison.
>
> Should I try to tighten this up before drilling, or not?
>Seems like the platenut-cleco setup is not pulling the skins as
>tight as they could be. And then some people in the archives say
>a gap is good...?
>
> And now for a gotcha I didn't see in the archives anywhere... I used
>to have a 1/8" gap, but it was due to the inside of a few skin-baffle
>clecoes just barely impacting the top spar reinforcing bar. I'm
>pretty slow, it took me about an hour to realize what was going on!
>
>Tanks, :)
>Paul
>http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z(at)earthlink.net> |
The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After following
the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted 1/8" , one
with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the same time).
After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I discovered both spars
were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and clamped the front and rear
spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the skins. The enlarged dimpled
holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist was not measurable when the riveting
was done.
Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the pre-punched
holes
Bruce Cruikshank
n19z(at)earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
If I remember correctly, this was the subject of discussion a few months ago
and the consensus was-I believe-that it was hard to put twist into the
prepunched wing. I think there was a builder who just put the skin on and
riveted it up. Then he measured for twist and found none. However, I think
prudence as well as good building technique would say cleco the skins on,
check and remove twist if present, then rivet.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
> Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing
> twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering?
> Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Friedman" <frankzip(at)charter.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | RV8 Tail Kit for sale |
Changed projects so RV 8 tail kit for sale. Very little work done. This is a pre
punched kit, however it was before the 4130 parts were powder coated. All 4130
parts were primered.
Included are preview plans, electric trim kit, 18 years of the RVaitor, Avery temporary
assembly pins, 2 construction videos. Vertical stabilizer tip is for
a rear position light. Cost for all of this now would be about $1775.
Buy it now for $1200. plus shipping before I put it on ebay. Bonus, free delivery
within 100 miles of Oshkosh.
Yep guys,I'm in OSH, 8-10 minutes to the airport, the downside, Jan temps, 17 days
below normal and 4-5 inches of snow last night.
Frank at 920-237-3536 or frankzip(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | fuel cap flange fit |
Hi everyone,
I'm at the step where I need to drill the fuel cap flange to the tank skin,
and it really doesn't match the contour of the skin/ribs well at all.
I've rotated it and found the existing bend in the cap but it is not enough.
Seems like it will look like a mess once they are riveted together.
Pictures on the web look like a good fit...can anyone straighten me out here?
Thanks!
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel cap flange fit |
You'll need to carefully shape the flange a bit to conform to the curve. I
think I used hand seamers. The material is pretty soft.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: fuel cap flange fit
>
> Hi everyone,
> I'm at the step where I need to drill the fuel cap flange to the tank
skin,
> and it really doesn't match the contour of the skin/ribs well at all.
> I've rotated it and found the existing bend in the cap but it is not
enough.
> Seems like it will look like a mess once they are riveted together.
> Pictures on the web look like a good fit...can anyone straighten me out
here?
> Thanks!
> Paul
>
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | fuel cap flange fit |
Paul,
Just position it to the best looking contour and mark for the first hole.
Drill it and cleco and continue on. I kept turning mine back and forth and
wondering the same thing. It has one way that is the best even though it
doesn't look like it is perfect. It comes out OK.
Terry Hobert 9A fuselage
>From: Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: fuel cap flange fit
>Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 19:29:30 -0800
>
>
>Hi everyone,
> I'm at the step where I need to drill the fuel cap flange to the tank
>skin,
>and it really doesn't match the contour of the skin/ribs well at all.
>I've rotated it and found the existing bend in the cap but it is not
>enough.
>Seems like it will look like a mess once they are riveted together.
>Pictures on the web look like a good fit...can anyone straighten me out
>here?
>Thanks!
>Paul
>
>http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | "Adjusting" the filler flanges. |
Paul Eastham | Date: | Feb 06, 2004 |
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | #6 & #8 dimple dies |
Found out I need #6 dimple dies for screw holes on the elevator. How
often are these needed? Is it worth it to buy them or should I plan on
borrowing them for a once in a blue moon need? Or is there another way?
Called Van's & they suggested I just use a #6 screw into a countersunk hole
in a chunk of steel. Rather than use a chunk of steel, I used washers &
screwed into a nut. Bent the aluminum badly. Glad I tried it on a piece
of scrap.
Richard Scott
Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #6 & #8 dimple dies |
I used the #6 dies quite a bit since I screwed on the wing tips as well as
the canopy (rather than use blind rivets). Therre were also several other
places I used a #6 Screw. The #8 die was not lused as much.
Dave Nicholson
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: RV9-List: #6 & #8 dimple dies
>
> Found out I need #6 dimple dies for screw holes on the elevator. How
> often are these needed? Is it worth it to buy them or should I plan on
> borrowing them for a once in a blue moon need? Or is there another way?
>
> Called Van's & they suggested I just use a #6 screw into a countersunk
hole
> in a chunk of steel. Rather than use a chunk of steel, I used washers &
> screwed into a nut. Bent the aluminum badly. Glad I tried it on a piece
> of scrap.
>
> Richard Scott
> Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #6 & #8 dimple dies |
It's easier if you go ahead and buy the dies. But if you would rather
not spend the money, you can take a chunk (reasonable heft) of steel and
drill and countersink it a little deeper than the head of the screw.
Put the screw through the hole and into the steel piece in back of the
screw. Then take your rivet gun and give it a few whacks. Or
alternately take a hammer or your c-frame and whack it.
I do have a #6 set, but I do not have a #10 set and there are even fewer
#10s than #6s. This is what I did for the #10s and it worked just fine.
You can also do the same with rivets if you end up with a hole that
needs to be dimpled with no way to do it with any normal tool - like if
you need a dimpled hole in the fuselage after everything is riveted
together.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Richard Scott wrote:
>
>Found out I need #6 dimple dies for screw holes on the elevator. How
>often are these needed? Is it worth it to buy them or should I plan on
>borrowing them for a once in a blue moon need? Or is there another way?
>
>Called Van's & they suggested I just use a #6 screw into a countersunk hole
>in a chunk of steel. Rather than use a chunk of steel, I used washers &
>screwed into a nut. Bent the aluminum badly. Glad I tried it on a piece
>of scrap.
>
>Richard Scott
>Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Cherry" <acherry(at)metrobeer.com> |
| Subject: | #6 & #8 dimple dies |
Richard, I found both 6 and 8's were used often. In the Wing they are needed
for the tanks , inspection covers and wingtips(if you make them removable).
They are also used in the fuselage. A good investment.
Al Cherry 90269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: RV9-List: #6 & #8 dimple dies
Found out I need #6 dimple dies for screw holes on the elevator. How
often are these needed? Is it worth it to buy them or should I plan on
borrowing them for a once in a blue moon need? Or is there another way?
Called Van's & they suggested I just use a #6 screw into a countersunk hole
in a chunk of steel. Rather than use a chunk of steel, I used washers &
screwed into a nut. Bent the aluminum badly. Glad I tried it on a piece
of scrap.
Richard Scott
Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #6 & #8 dimple dies |
After messing around with 2 different diameters of screws, I threw away all
the #6 nutplates and used only #8 (which have the same hole pattern for the
rivets).
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fitting lower cowl |
Just wondering if anyone has had an interference problem with the lower cowl
and the heat muff. I'm using an O-320 with Vetterman exhaust and the Van's
heat muff.
Thanks in advance,
Dale
RV9A
Fittin' freakin' cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Crowder" <rv9(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting lower cowl |
It was a tight fit on mine, had to twist the ends and offset it just right. I
also added a muff on the crossovers, and put the two in series.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Larsen
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 3:58 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Fitting lower cowl
Just wondering if anyone has had an interference problem with the lower cowl
and the heat muff. I'm using an O-320 with Vetterman exhaust and the Van's
heat muff.
Thanks in advance,
Dale
RV9A
Fittin' freakin' cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting lower cowl |
Gary,
Thanks for the reply. I twisted mine, but it still contacts the cowl. I
can't slide it forward any farther because it is already butting against the
ball joint in the exhaust pipe. I'm thinking I might have to make the muff
shorter so it won't contact the cowl. It it will need at least 1/4"
clearance because the engine will move with respect to the cowl.
Dale
RV9A N61DX
> It was a tight fit on mine, had to twist the ends and offset it just
right. I also added a muff on the crossovers, and put the two in series.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
I would be interested to know from those of you that have weighed your
aircraft, is the CofG tending to be to far forward or aft? I ask this
because as I install the few bits and pieces which can be put in a variety
of places I dont know which way to bias things. Did the example in the
manual seem similar to your own aircraft? I believe these figures are from
the O-320 VANS demonstrator.
Mine is an O-320-E2D with an electric MT prop. The prop is quite a bit
lighter than a Hartzell CS but clearly heavier than an FP prop. PC680 on the
firewall. The panel will have little in it, most of which weighs little more
than nothing. (Dynon, GR4000, ASI, Navaid, Microair rad and Transponder,
Skyforce and a few switches.)
All inputs welcome.
October 26, 2003 - February 08, 2004
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-am