RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ao
April 18, 2004 - August 23, 2004
>From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron oops?
>Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:50:43 -0400
>
>
>I hate to admit this with all you guys coming up with all these fixtures
>and
>fancy ways of doing the counter sinking. I just did mine with air drill
>and
>counter sink tool, hand holding. Results look great. Message is, don't
>kill yourself being too precise. It is not necessary.
>
>John Oliveira
>N909RV reserved
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bob Kelly" <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aileron oops?
>
>
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > I know not many people have one, but a small lathe or milling machine
>really
> > speeds things up. I did the right elevator trailing edge in about 15-20
> > minutes and the results were great. You can pick up a Taig lathe with a
> > milling adapter for about $300 and I would think a ShopSmith could be
> > adapted. I have a picture at www.missionmedia.org/RV-9A.html Click on
>the
> > "Emp Tips" button. There is a wood block in the jaws (not visible) that
> > holds the proper angle and allows a slip fit for the wedge.
> >
> > Bob Kelly, Wings
> >
> >
> > > PS: Anyone found a fast(er) way to countersink the AEX yet? I have
> > > been spring-clamping the thing to my drill press for each hole, to
> > > keep the countersink from taking a huge bite. I've got 1 aileron and
> > > 2 huge flaps to go, not looking forward to that...
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | center section conduit holes |
Hey All,
I just enlarged the outboard holes in my center section for conduit
to 5/8", as instructed, and find that the holes now interfere with
(are overlapped by) the two side sections that are riveted to the area.
On the plans (which also instruct you to enlarge the holes to 5/8"),
the holes are depicted at 3/8", and do not interfere with the side
posts at that size.
Anyone else have this problem?
Though this one is certainly not the end of the world, I am growing
increasingly frustrated by errors in the plans and manual. Should I
be triple-checking every single instruction and measurement, comparing
the plans, manual, and reality, for any possible conflict?
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron oops? |
Terry,
None taken! That is what this is all about, finding what works for you. I
am making all sorts of little parts and tools with my mini lathe/milling
machine. My only point is that we often have tools we don't consider
"aircraft" tools. I would guess that some of us homebuilders have been
tinkerers and have things helpful to our projects that we may not consider.
I just used mine to make countersink guides for my wing spars--took only a
few minutes and saved some bucks (now I don't need #6 or #8 countersinks.)
Works for me!
Bob Kelly, 90854, Wings
On 04/18/04, Terry Hobert wrote:
>
> I wasn't going to jump in on this, but!!!! I have to agree with John, I
> just hand held the AEX wedges and drilled them with the countersink. I
> building my fuselage now and after doing the rudder, elevators, ailerons
> and flaps, they all came out beautiful! If you have to have a machine shop
> to do the wedges then is it really home building? Sorry, no disrespect
> meant! We all have our own ways and that is good to. Terry Hobert 9A
> fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | center section conduit holes |
I enlarged mine also and I remember the plans saying to modify the bushing
because the sections would interfere. If those are the same holes you are
talking about. I trimed out the bushings and put them in. I have to admit
it did seem alittle funky and I am learning to read and study carefully
before jumping in. There are some mistakes and Vans does fix them
(sometimes), but I've also found to read the web sites and look for the
areas I need to watch out for. You are probably doing that already, I bet!
Small price to pay for a great airplane however!
Keep on Brother,
Terry Hobert 9A fuselage
>From: Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: center section conduit holes
>Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 18:15:55 -0700
>
>
>Hey All,
> I just enlarged the outboard holes in my center section for conduit
>to 5/8", as instructed, and find that the holes now interfere with
>(are overlapped by) the two side sections that are riveted to the area.
>
> On the plans (which also instruct you to enlarge the holes to 5/8"),
>the holes are depicted at 3/8", and do not interfere with the side
>posts at that size.
>
> Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Though this one is certainly not the end of the world, I am growing
>increasingly frustrated by errors in the plans and manual. Should I
>be triple-checking every single instruction and measurement, comparing
>the plans, manual, and reality, for any possible conflict?
>
>Paul
>http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ControlVision Hookup |
I'm using a ControlVision GPS setup to feed my Navaid. ControlVision used a
cigaret lighter plugin to power both the Garmin GPS receiver and the IPAQ
PDA. I wanted a more permanent setup so I ripped apart the cigaret lighter
plugin and made an interface box. Wiring up the Navaid autopilot to the
ControlVision setup wasn't difficult but took some time to find out the
appropriate wires. If anyone is going through the same puzzle, I'll share my
wiring diagram via email. My setup uses the external Smart Coupler rather
than the one built into the Navaid control unit but they are nearly the
same.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
ControlVision uses a hand-held computer and a GPS receiver to make a GPS
setup for navigation. At Copperstate last year I say another company that
does about the same thing but I can't remember their name. Does this ring a
bell with anyone? I'm interested in using the EZ Pilot autopilot from Trio
but ControlVision doesn't supply the proper GPS signal for EZ Pilot and
apparently doesn't plan on doing so in the future.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-290 D2B accessory case question |
I purchased the above mentioned engine for my RV-9. It appears to be in
great shape and has low time, I'll find out more when I start
disassembling it.
The only gottcha is that it doesn't have a fuel pump, which prompted the
following questions:
1) What O-290 accessory cases accept the fuel pump and where should I
look for such a thing?
2) Can I substitute an accessory case from an O-235 or O-320? If so,
which ones?
3) Are any of you flying with an Aero Carb from Sonex
(http://www.aeroconversions.com/carb_index.html)? If so, could you give
me some feedback?
If all else fails, I'm thinking I could install two electric fuel pumps,
with check valves, one pump fused directly to the battery, etc. but I
would prefer to have an engine driven pump.
Thanks for the help!
Bill R.
Huntersville, NC
RV-9
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
One wing down, one to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-290 D2B accessory case question |
Hi Bill,
Not positive, but you could do some checking....there are a lot of the older
series narrow deck O-320 parts that fit on the -290's.
The Sonex carb, however I can give you some advice.......Stay away from
it!!!!! There are 2 newer Sonex's in the hangar next to me, and I've seen a
couple more fly in here to see these guys. One of the Sonex's has the
Aerocarb, and one has the regular bing. The Aerocarb has nearly killed the
one owner not twice, but THREE times. He's replaced the throttle slide no
less than three times with significant changes from Sonex. The first slide
was Aluminum, but it was sticky (and got stuck at idle on him in the
pattern) so they replaced it with a Delrin Slide. This worked for awhile,
but then on one flight the idle mixture rod screwed itself shut and the
engine died....So, then next, Sonex went back to an aluminum slide that was
contured, and coated with teflon, but this too gave them problems, so the
guys are back to the Delirin Slide with lot's of locktite on the mixture
rod.
Also, mounting these things is not a bowl of cherries. The cable is
basically held in place through a hole drilled in the carb itself, but if
it's not PERFECTLY straight, the slider sticks, usually in idle posisition.
As an A&P I've helped him MANY hours with this thing, and I've seen him dead
stick it in at least 3 times because of this carb. Meanwhile the guy with
the regular carb has been happily flying!
All that being said, some people are flying with them, and I'm a very
progressive builder/pilot/mechanic, but I'll tell you this. You couldn't
pay me to put one of those things on my plane or car, and I won't even fly
in the plane with that carb on it.
Regarding the lycoming solutions, the old Marvel carbs have over 50 years of
proven reliability, they're reasonable to overhaul, and dirt simple to work
on. The Aerocarb looks simple, but wait until you have to start
adjusting!!! Sometimes, if you get the idle arm on wrong, you can't shut
the thing off without using the key, other times the cable is a nightmare to
get straight. I could go on for hours!!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Repucci
rv4-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV9-List: Lycoming O-290 D2B accessory case question
I purchased the above mentioned engine for my RV-9. It appears to be in
great shape and has low time, I'll find out more when I start
disassembling it.
The only gottcha is that it doesn't have a fuel pump, which prompted the
following questions:
1) What O-290 accessory cases accept the fuel pump and where should I
look for such a thing?
2) Can I substitute an accessory case from an O-235 or O-320? If so,
which ones?
3) Are any of you flying with an Aero Carb from Sonex
(http://www.aeroconversions.com/carb_index.html)? If so, could you give
me some feedback?
If all else fails, I'm thinking I could install two electric fuel pumps,
with check valves, one pump fused directly to the battery, etc. but I
would prefer to have an engine driven pump.
Thanks for the help!
Bill R.
Huntersville, NC
RV-9
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
One wing down, one to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: center section conduit holes |
Paul,
I had the same problem. Just had to radius the overlapping piece so that a
nylon bushing would snap in.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: center section conduit holes
>
> Hey All,
> I just enlarged the outboard holes in my center section for conduit
> to 5/8", as instructed, and find that the holes now interfere with
> (are overlapped by) the two side sections that are riveted to the area.
>
> On the plans (which also instruct you to enlarge the holes to 5/8"),
> the holes are depicted at 3/8", and do not interfere with the side
> posts at that size.
>
> Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Though this one is certainly not the end of the world, I am growing
> increasingly frustrated by errors in the plans and manual. Should I
> be triple-checking every single instruction and measurement, comparing
> the plans, manual, and reality, for any possible conflict?
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
Look again, I think you will find some written advice on mounting the wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Wings
>
> Now that I am ready to mount the wings, I looked through the instruction
> manual to find out just how to proceed. No luck. There are no
instructions
> to mount the wings. Just some cryptic measurements on one of the
drawings.
> There are some instructions on Van's site, but these are generic.
>
> Anyone got advice on the easisest way to proceed?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com> |
Hi Dale;
If you have one of the early wing manuals, there was a few pages missing
which detail this step. I found this as well and since it was a Saturday I couldn't
phone Vans, so I asked an identical question and some kind soul on the
list immediately sent me a .PDF file with the missing pages. These pages have
some fairly important info, so I wouldn't advise that you just "wing it" :-).
I'm at work right now and don't have the info, but a quick call to Vans or possibly
look for it on their web site should get it for you.
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Evenson [SMTP:revenson(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:03 PM
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wings
>
>
> Look again, I think you will find some written advice on mounting the wings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Wings
>
>
> >
> > Now that I am ready to mount the wings, I looked through the instruction
> > manual to find out just how to proceed. No luck. There are no
> instructions
> > to mount the wings. Just some cryptic measurements on one of the
> drawings.
> > There are some instructions on Van's site, but these are generic.
> >
> > Anyone got advice on the easisest way to proceed?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dale
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Is it possible to remove the instrument panel on a completed RV9 slider,
or at least unscrew the fasteners it and tip the top of it back to gain
access to the back of the instruments and wiring?
Leland in Pleasanton
Just ordered the Dynon D-10A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Oh and in response to your original question I think the answer is NO once
the original panel is installed it cannot be tipped out from the top to gain
access to the back.. someone may have a trick that I don't know of but from
what I saw of our original panel installation the way it fits into the
fuselage in that area tipping it would be very difficult if not impossible
and may result in a one tip per panel outcome... if you know what I mean...
we decided that the Affordable Panel was the way to go for that reason... as
easy access to the back of the panel was a high priority to us..
Tod
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Panel Removal
>
> Is it possible to remove the instrument panel on a completed RV9 slider,
> or at least unscrew the fasteners it and tip the top of it back to gain
> access to the back of the instruments and wiring?
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Just ordered the Dynon D-10A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Todd,
You're right, the early manuals did not include wing installation
instructions. I searched this archive, and found the missing instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=1251239?KEYS=wing_&_install_&_fax?LISTNAME=RV9?HITNUMBER=5?SERIAL=13545111103?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Thanks!
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim(at)canfor.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Wings
>
> Hi Dale;
> If you have one of the early wing manuals, there was a few pages
missing which detail this step. I found this as well and since it was a
Saturday I couldn't phone Vans, so I asked an identical question and some
kind soul on the list immediately sent me a .PDF file with the missing
pages. These pages have some fairly important info, so I wouldn't advise
that you just "wing it" :-). I'm at work right now and don't have the info,
but a quick call to Vans or possibly look for it on their web site should
get it for you.
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B
> RX-9endurance
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Imagination is more important than knowledge"
> -Albert Einstein
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Evenson [SMTP:revenson(at)comcast.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:03 PM
> > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wings
> >
> >
> > Look again, I think you will find some written advice on mounting the
wings.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV9-List: Wings
> >
> >
<slickrock@been-there.com>
> > >
> > > Now that I am ready to mount the wings, I looked through the
instruction
> > > manual to find out just how to proceed. No luck. There are no
> > instructions
> > > to mount the wings. Just some cryptic measurements on one of the
> > drawings.
> > > There are some instructions on Van's site, but these are generic.
> > >
> > > Anyone got advice on the easisest way to proceed?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Dale
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Tod, thank you for your input, both online and off. I have already
punched, painted and begun wiring my panel and cannot easily start over
with a segmented panel. I am already regretting my action.
Leland in Pleasanton
Adding the EGT's & CHT's to the Grand Rapids EIS
(ordered a Dynon D10A on Friday with a planned June delivery)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Another 9A builder (still in progress) and I were looking at our panels
thinking about this issue. I have the map box in mine and it is quite
deep-extends through the sub-panel so that complicates removal a lot. Also,
my radio trays are riveted to the panel and were intended to stay that way
while his are bolted and meant to stay with the plane-clearly a better plan.
Both of us made extensive use of multipin connectors so that almost all
panel wires go through these connectors on the subpanel to make removal
easier. If I ever do it again, I think all wires will go through connectors
in this way and the map box-if I put one in-will bolt to the panel. The last
big impediment to removal is the corners of the panel. We could have made
the corners part of the structure and I think a much narrower panel with no
structures like radio trays or map boxes would come right out.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
The one drawback about bolting the mapbox to the sub-panel bulkhead is that you
will have to use screws to attach the mapbox flanges to the panel. Not a problem
at all, but the flush look of rivets makes for a better finish.
Fabian
>
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Date: 2004/05/02 Sun PM 01:46:29 EDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Panel Removal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Why not rivet flanges with p-nuts to the panel and then use screws to
attach the map box to these flanges from the inside. Then you could use
a stubby screwdriver to remove the screws, thus allowing the panel to
come out while leaving the map box behind.
Just my $.02 worth.
Bill R.
Huntersville, NC
RV-9
SN: 90737
Just finished my 2nd fuel tank today! 554 hours and counting.
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
fablef(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Re: RV9-List: Panel Removal
The one drawback about bolting the mapbox to the sub-panel bulkhead is
that you will have to use screws to attach the mapbox flanges to the
panel. Not a problem at all, but the flush look of rivets makes for a
better finish.
Fabian
>
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Date: 2004/05/02 Sun PM 01:46:29 EDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Panel Removal
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
In my mind the biggest drawback to making the mapbox removable from the
panel is having to find a new type of hinge. The door could also be
removable from the hinge but currently Vans use a piano hinge riveted to
both the door and the mapbox. The mapbox is handy and deep enough for
sectionals but too deep for other uses unless you want to reach waaay in.
BTW, consider taking the corners off of the panel that surounds the fuel
selector valve (F-983C). I did and both my leg and my passengers leg thank
me after every flight.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Hi Guys,
You know what?
A better place for a map box, than the instrument panel, is between the seats
just forward of the flap drive motor housing.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Undercarriage Leg Stiffeners |
Listers
I recall from postings some time ago that the general consensus was that the wooden
undercarriage stiffeners called for on the Van's plans were unnecessary.
A question to those with RV9's in the air. Did you fit and if not how is the ground
handling. Your input would be very welcome.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | aileron spar countersink |
Hi all,
Has anyone asked Van's yet about their crazy instructions for
countersinking the aileron spar? They say to countersink it for skin
dimples, since we don't want to warp that .040 spar. Problem is,
.040 is too thin to countersink for a dimple. Enlarges the hole.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Ervin <n57wc(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/08/04 |
paul, according to my tech adviser you can (almost a
"should") dimple up to .040! Be careful not to gouge
the bend of the flange with the dimple set.
Bill
>
>
> Hi all,
> Has anyone asked Van's yet about their crazy
> instructions for
> countersinking the aileron spar? They say to
> countersink it for skin
> dimples, since we don't want to warp that .040 spar.
> Problem is,
> .040 is too thin to countersink for a dimple.
> Enlarges the hole.
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moxie" <rv9a(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | aileron spar countersink |
Hello Paul,
I suggest countersinking through the skin into the aileron then the nose
skin will cover. If you have
Countersunk the spar and came up with the enlarged hole, then use a strip of
aluminum inside of the spar.
I believe you could rivet the over enlarged holes and be okay, but I am not
going that route. I over enlarge the left
Aileron and could not get the clecos to hold, so I placed scrap pieces under
every cleco to form a clamp. My kit
Came with extra 1/2 inch strips the length of my aileron spar.
The counter sinking of the sink/spar combo is similar to the tank skin to
rear baffle.
Best regards,
Phil Johnston
Hi all,
Has anyone asked Van's yet about their crazy instructions for
countersinking the aileron spar? They say to countersink it for skin
dimples, since we don't want to warp that .040 spar. Problem is,
.040 is too thin to countersink for a dimple. Enlarges the hole.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | Monroy ADT-300 Traffic Detector |
For the last couple of weeks, I have had a number of calls from builders
inquiring about the arrival of additional ADT-300 units. We sold out
our first batch fairly quickly, and have received a second batch.
However, it appears that the manufacturer can't seem to catch with the
demand fast enough, so we don't know how long they will be around for
those that interested.
If you are interested in finding out about the product, you can see can
click here http://www.affordablepanels.com/monroy300.htm
Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com <http://www.affordablepanels.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron spar countersink |
Hi group,
Reply from Van's was that I should only be countersinking to regular
depth, not dimple depth. Obviously... :| Gus claims that the dimple
will conform as it is riveted. Ok, so why have I been spending so much
time with dimple gauges then? :)
I pestered them about adding some warning to the manual here, just in
case they ever revise it..
I got a number of replies about csinking through the main skin+spar,
and if you read the part of the manual where they talk about
countersinking technique this does indeed seem like the right thing to
do.
Paul
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> I suggest countersinking through the skin into the aileron then the nose
> skin will cover. If you have
> Countersunk the spar and came up with the enlarged hole, then use a strip of
> aluminum inside of the spar.
> I believe you could rivet the over enlarged holes and be okay, but I am not
> going that route. I over enlarge the left
> Aileron and could not get the clecos to hold, so I placed scrap pieces under
> every cleco to form a clamp. My kit
> Came with extra 1/2 inch strips the length of my aileron spar.
>
> The counter sinking of the sink/spar combo is similar to the tank skin to
> rear baffle.
>
> Best regards,
>
>
> Phil Johnston
>
>
> Hi all,
> Has anyone asked Van's yet about their crazy instructions for
> countersinking the aileron spar? They say to countersink it for skin
> dimples, since we don't want to warp that .040 spar. Problem is,
> .040 is too thin to countersink for a dimple. Enlarges the hole.
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron spar countersink |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moxie" <rv9a(at)wideopenwest.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: aileron spar countersink
Hello namesake(Tocajo)
My suggestion: I dimpled the spar lightly, leaving some meat on the
backside, then countersunk removing a small amount of material; worked
great!
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> I suggest countersinking through the skin into the aileron then the nose
> skin will cover. If you have
> Countersunk the spar and came up with the enlarged hole, then use a strip
of
> aluminum inside of the spar.
> I believe you could rivet the over enlarged holes and be okay, but I am
not
> going that route. I over enlarge the left
> Aileron and could not get the clecos to hold, so I placed scrap pieces
under
> every cleco to form a clamp. My kit
> Came with extra 1/2 inch strips the length of my aileron spar.
>
> The counter sinking of the sink/spar combo is similar to the tank skin to
> rear baffle.
>
> Best regards,
>
>
> Phil Johnston
>
>
> Hi all,
> Has anyone asked Van's yet about their crazy instructions for
> countersinking the aileron spar? They say to countersink it for skin
> dimples, since we don't want to warp that .040 spar. Problem is,
> .040 is too thin to countersink for a dimple. Enlarges the hole.
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | F6111: baggage skin stiffener |
What's up with the F6111? Mine don't even come close to fitting the
pre-punched holes in the top skin that covers part of the baggage
compartment-- IF that's where it goes; I don't even see this part on the
plans! Interestingly, it does fit the curve of this top skin front edge
pretty close.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
Wayne Williams
RV-9A (slider)
Wings and fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F6111: baggage skin stiffener |
Check the archives. This was covered in detail a few months ago.
Basically you have to trim a little and bend a little and it fits just
fine along the prepunched holes.
Dick Tasker
Wayne Williams wrote:
>
>What's up with the F6111? Mine don't even come close to fitting the
>pre-punched holes in the top skin that covers part of the baggage
>compartment-- IF that's where it goes; I don't even see this part on the
>plans! Interestingly, it does fit the curve of this top skin front edge
>pretty close.
>Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Wayne Williams
>RV-9A (slider)
>Wings and fuse
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Carr" <b.m.carr(at)telus.net> |
Has anyone used the fairings from Fairings Etc. on their 9A?
I just mounted the wheel pants and hate fiberglass work.
Bryan Carr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Yep, got the top intersection fairings from Bob at Fairings Etc. I did
a bit of bending with a heat gun to get them to fit like I wanted, fit
nice and much easier than doing layups upside down!
You can see pictures of them here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/Fairings/index.htm
- Andy
On May 10, 2004, at 10:03 PM, Bryan Carr wrote:
>
> Has anyone used the fairings from Fairings Etc. on their 9A?
> I just mounted the wheel pants and hate fiberglass work.
> Bryan Carr
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I built my own and when I found these I threw mine away and used these. Much
better, lighter and smoother. Bob Snedaker at http://www.fairings-etc.com/
does a great job. I enjoyed building my own but I found it a challenge to
make nice smooth curves and mine weighed about twice as much as Bobs. You
need to flex the upper intersection fairings to get them on and off so they
need to be flexible unless you make them in 2 pieces. BTW, the upper
intersection fairing for the main gear is not the same as the 6A, in spite
of what I had been told by others. In the past Bobs web page didn't have
pictures for the 9 and 9A but I called him and he did have fairing for the
9's.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Carr" <b.m.carr(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fairings
> Has anyone used the fairings from Fairings Etc. on their 9A?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "copperhead" <copperhead(at)tcmax.net> |
Well after much lurking, visiting different projects, and encouragement from other
RV builders (such as Rick in Nevada), I have stepped off into the deep water.
It took several visits out to the college to participate in numerous experiments
and selling vast quantities of various body fluids, but I finally got
the money and I am now the proud owner of an -9 empennage and complete tool kit.
After looking over the plans, I must say I am excitedly scared at the prospect
of building this machine. This is gonna be GREAT!
I anticipate ordering the wing kit by the end of the summer as I have a few other
projects to complete first (including a wedding), plus my back just wouldn't
hold up to the late night dancing at the club which threw my finances a little
off. The paper route is going well though, plus the whole lottery thing each
week, so hopefully I should be back on top by then.
I am located in Southeast Missouri and looking to hook up with a tech counselor
as I want it done the best I can possibly make it. I have received a contact
list from EAA which I plan on utilizing, unless someone wants to step forward
or has a better idea. I would also like to co-mingle with other builders in
the area.
One of the final decisions on this particular project was the RV family. Each
person seems genuinely concerned about every aspect of this hobby and goes out
of their way to show it. I have been greatly impressed with the overall attitude
of RVer's which made me want to be a part. Thanks for the opportunity to
participate with such a distinquished group.
BTW, I have an extra set of preview plans for sale (its a long, sad story). I
would consider a trade for a wing kit or maybe a set of those nomex shorts.
Chuck in Missouri #90662
99.9% to go (still trying to get the box opened)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New builder.... |
Hi Chuck,
Open the box and inventory the parts. If for no other reason, to be sure
they are all there and not damaged in shipping.
Don't worry about being intimidated. We all were and still are. You have
made a good decision and have chosen an excellant kit. You will be surprised at
how many resources are avialable to you.
Get hackin at it.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder.... |
Chuck & other newbies,
A couple suggestions:
As you inventory, write a part description that makes sense to you on the
outside of the bags.
If you are going to keep the parts in the original boxes until you need
them, note on your pick list which box each part is in and / or list them
on the outside of the box.
Richard Scott
9A emp, but only a TE plus one complete elevator to go before wings!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G B <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
Hello,
My $0.02 worth.
Write the rivet numbers on the bag with a sharpie in 1/2" or higher
numbers. You will appreciate it later (470-4-4)!
Don't do what I did: the shim for the rib for the horizontal stabilizer
was in one of the bags. I cut it from the other strip
stock that was supposed to be used for fiberglass tip on the rudder.
Get help from a fellow RV builder, at least at first. This helped me
tremendously!
Read all the plans steps two or three times before doing the step. The
order in which things need to be done
is that way for a reason (not to close up an assembly before it is
absolutely necessary).
My emp is nearly done, and the wings are due to be shipped in late June.
Glen Bankston
Moultrie, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder.... |
Chuck, if there is an EAA Chapter close by give them a visit. I spent a few
dollars on donuts but in return I got more than enough support to complete
my 9A and made some very good friends to boot.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
One more thing:
Join or start a builder's group. You can do this at your local EAA chapter
or on your own by finding out from Van's the names of builders in your
area, call them up and organize a visit to someone's project.
Our meetings were inspired by the Home Wing meetings, but we wanted a
smaller group.
We like a small group, less than a dozen folks. We get together at 7 and
spend some time looking over the project in an informal manner for awhile
as there are always latecomers. Then the host talks a little about the
project, the problems he had and the solutions he found. We try to have a
tech counselor or an A&P there to demonstrate some how to do something,
such as shaving a rivet or dimpling a spot in a tight space, as was covered
in a recent RVator. There is usually a tool discussion covering things
like neat tools someone has found or good buys. The tech counselor
documents the visit which is supposed to help down the road, but I am not
far enough along to know how, yet. We have a good time, solve some
problems and these get togethers are informative and motivational. Last
time we had to kick people out at 9.
Note for chapter members: These builder's groups can be a good chapter
recruiting tool. Invite non-member builders to the group, then invite them
to the chapter. Usually, they join.
Richard Scott
9 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
Another two cents.
I have put all small parts in "Ziploc" bags, written on with a sharpie as to
the exact specification and the stock number or item number from the kit.
all these baggies are stored in one drawer of my tool cabinet . It is real
easy to find the right stuff quickly, both visually and per spec.
John Oliveira
----- Original Message -----
From: "G B" <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV9-List: new builder
>
> Hello,
>
> My $0.02 worth.
>
> Write the rivet numbers on the bag with a sharpie in 1/2" or higher
> numbers. You will appreciate it later (470-4-4)!
>
> Don't do what I did: the shim for the rib for the horizontal stabilizer
> was in one of the bags. I cut it from the other strip
> stock that was supposed to be used for fiberglass tip on the rudder.
>
> Get help from a fellow RV builder, at least at first. This helped me
> tremendously!
>
> Read all the plans steps two or three times before doing the step. The
> order in which things need to be done
> is that way for a reason (not to close up an assembly before it is
> absolutely necessary).
>
> My emp is nearly done, and the wings are due to be shipped in late June.
>
> Glen Bankston
> Moultrie, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Where is the best place to buy tools?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
I bought most of my tools from Cleveland Tool Co. ( Listed on Van's
website.) I can highly reccomend these people. They are also RV builders and
do
builders work shops. When you call them a person answers the phone and you get
what you want, plus they will spend time on the phone with you, telling you how
to use the tools.
Organizing your hardware? I would suggest you go to your local hardware
store, spend 10 to 15 dollars for a plastic organizer with a couple dozen drawers.
Put all your rivets and common size screws, etc. into it. Therre are only a
12 or 15 kinds of rivets you will use and having them sized and in sequence in
drawers is very handy.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Mead" <bigun73(at)msn.com> |
Snap-on
bigun73(at)msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Neilekins(at)aol.com<mailto:Neilekins(at)aol.com>
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: new builder
Where is the best place to buy tools?
________________________________________________________________________________
I bought a couple of plastic organizers from Lowe's that have different size bins.
They work great and I labeled all the bins for the different size rivets.
It sure makes it easy to grab what you need quick. I also use them to hold drill
bits, countersinks, and other small tools. The bigger bins will even hold a
lot of the small aluminum componants. They are about 18 inches square and 6 inches
deep.
Jim Wright RV-9 90919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Murray <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 05/12/04 |
To the new builder:
I am now flying - 10.1 hours. It is well worth the
work. 40930 Jim Murray
--- RV9-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV9-List Digest can be also be
> found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file
> includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and
> features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file
> includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed
> with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-05-12.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-05-12.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> RV9-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed
> 05/12/04: 7
>
>
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:30 AM - new builder (G B)
> 2. 08:25 AM - Re: New builder.... (Albert
> Gardner)
> 3. 01:44 PM - Re: new builder (Richard Scott)
> 4. 05:56 PM - Re: new builder (John Oliveira)
> 5. 06:01 PM - Re: new builder
> (Neilekins(at)aol.com)
> 6. 07:19 PM - Re: new builder
> (DThomas773(at)aol.com)
> 7. 10:55 PM - Re: new builder (Tommy Mead)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: G B <microsys(at)alltel.net>
> Subject: RV9-List: new builder
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> My $0.02 worth.
>
> Write the rivet numbers on the bag with a sharpie in
> 1/2" or higher
> numbers. You will appreciate it later (470-4-4)!
>
> Don't do what I did: the shim for the rib for the
> horizontal stabilizer
> was in one of the bags. I cut it from the other
> strip
> stock that was supposed to be used for fiberglass
> tip on the rudder.
>
> Get help from a fellow RV builder, at least at
> first. This helped me
> tremendously!
>
> Read all the plans steps two or three times before
> doing the step. The
> order in which things need to be done
> is that way for a reason (not to close up an
> assembly before it is
> absolutely necessary).
>
> My emp is nearly done, and the wings are due to be
> shipped in late June.
>
> Glen Bankston
> Moultrie, GA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: New builder....
>
>
>
> Chuck, if there is an EAA Chapter close by give them
> a visit. I spent a few
> dollars on donuts but in return I got more than
> enough support to complete
> my 9A and made some very good friends to boot.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: new builder
>
>
>
> One more thing:
>
> Join or start a builder's group. You can do this at
> your local EAA chapter
> or on your own by finding out from Van's the names
> of builders in your
> area, call them up and organize a visit to someone's
> project.
>
> Our meetings were inspired by the Home Wing
> meetings, but we wanted a
> smaller group.
>
> We like a small group, less than a dozen folks. We
> get together at 7 and
> spend some time looking over the project in an
> informal manner for awhile
> as there are always latecomers. Then the host talks
> a little about the
> project, the problems he had and the solutions he
> found. We try to have a
> tech counselor or an A&P there to demonstrate some
> how to do something,
> such as shaving a rivet or dimpling a spot in a
> tight space, as was covered
> in a recent RVator. There is usually a tool
> discussion covering things
> like neat tools someone has found or good buys. The
> tech counselor
> documents the visit which is supposed to help down
> the road, but I am not
> far enough along to know how, yet. We have a good
> time, solve some
> problems and these get togethers are informative and
> motivational. Last
> time we had to kick people out at 9.
>
> Note for chapter members: These builder's groups
> can be a good chapter
> recruiting tool. Invite non-member builders to the
> group, then invite them
> to the chapter. Usually, they join.
>
> Richard Scott
> 9 Emp
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
http://movies.yahoo.com/showtimes/movie?mid=1808405861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Moak" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I could not be happier with Avery Tools http://www.averytools.com I have
purchased some from Cleveland. http://www.cleavelandtool.com and they seemed
to be good people also. Neither are cheap, but good quality tools aren't If
you need some odd tool and accuracy is not an issue (plastic mallet, small
files etc) Harbor Freight, if accuracy is important go somewhere else (ie
their drill bits will make a hole, how big????) Plastic bins Lowe's, Home
Depot etc.
Ken Moak
Wings 90509
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neilekins(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: new builder
Where is the best place to buy tools?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Snap On? Snap On tools are the Cadillac of tools but are very pricey.
Generally tools of this quality are used by professionals that use them every day
and like the convenience of a driver that calls on them weekly.
I don't buy much from Sears, but I think their basic hand tools, wrenches,
screw drivers, sockets sets, etc., are very good quality and reasonable. They
also are life time, no quibble, guaranteed.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
One other supplier that I like is Wholesale Tools:
http://www.wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
They are good for inexpensive tools (they also have name brand tools)
and supplies such as 3M deburring wheels, sand paper, storage bins,
castering wheels, dust masks, etc. They also carry the drop forged eye
bolts Van's recommends for tie down rings (Less than $2 each) and a tube
drilling jig (v-block) at a reasonable price.
CENTER IT - Tube Drilling Jig $14.95
http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1290-0
200&Category_Code
Eye bolts $1.68 (I think this is the right size)
http://wttool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=4026-0
010&Category_Code
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
Ailerons
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: new builder
Snap On? Snap On tools are the Cadillac of tools but are very pricey.
Generally tools of this quality are used by professionals that use them
every day
and like the convenience of a driver that calls on them weekly. I don't
buy much from Sears, but I think their basic hand tools, wrenches,
screw drivers, sockets sets, etc., are very good quality and reasonable.
They
also are life time, no quibble, guaranteed.
Dennis Thomas
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pitner, Timothy" <TPitner(at)flowcorp.com> |
Forget the wedding or you will never get this thing done...
TIM PITNER
Technical Service
Flow International Corporation | www.flowcorp.com
23500 64th Ave. S. | Kent, WA 98032 | USA
tel: 253.813.3318 | fax: 253.813.3282 | tpitner(at)flowcorp.com
-----Original Message-----
From: copperhead [mailto:copperhead(at)tcmax.net]
Subject: RV9-List: New builder....
Well after much lurking, visiting different projects, and encouragement from
other RV builders (such as Rick in Nevada), I have stepped off into the deep
water. It took several visits out to the college to participate in numerous
experiments and selling vast quantities of various body fluids, but I
finally got the money and I am now the proud owner of an -9 empennage and
complete tool kit. After looking over the plans, I must say I am excitedly
scared at the prospect of building this machine. This is gonna be GREAT!
I anticipate ordering the wing kit by the end of the summer as I have a few
other projects to complete first (including a wedding), plus my back just
wouldn't hold up to the late night dancing at the club which threw my
finances a little off. The paper route is going well though, plus the whole
lottery thing each week, so hopefully I should be back on top by then.
I am located in Southeast Missouri and looking to hook up with a tech
counselor as I want it done the best I can possibly make it. I have
received a contact list from EAA which I plan on utilizing, unless someone
wants to step forward or has a better idea. I would also like to co-mingle
with other builders in the area.
One of the final decisions on this particular project was the RV family.
Each person seems genuinely concerned about every aspect of this hobby and
goes out of their way to show it. I have been greatly impressed with the
overall attitude of RVer's which made me want to be a part. Thanks for the
opportunity to participate with such a distinquished group.
BTW, I have an extra set of preview plans for sale (its a long, sad story).
I would consider a trade for a wing kit or maybe a set of those nomex
shorts.
Chuck in Missouri #90662
99.9% to go (still trying to get the box opened)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Buechler <jkb1(at)voicenet.com> |
| Subject: | Help on prep & primers |
1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 Date: is 3 to 6 hours after Received: date
I just purchased the empanage kit while down at Sun N Fun and am now
ready to start construction. Got to test fly a 9 while down there
also. Very nice. My question is what exactly do you need to do before
applying primer paint, where to buy it, what kind of primer paint, etc.
Any help is appreciated. There is a lot of info from various web sites,
but nothing consistent. Is all you have to do is scotch brite, then
primer? Or do you need to prep the metal with something, then alodine,
then primer. Or is a self etching primer sufficient? By the way, in
following other threads, I bought my tools from Cleveland Tools while at
Sun N Fun. They have a great tool set. I don't think you will find a
better rivet squeezer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help on prep & primers 1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 |
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 18:09:39 -0500
I used Sherwin Williams wash primer as does Van's on their quick build kits.
I washed everuthing with hot soapy water using a scotchbrite pad to scrub
the surfaces. After everything is dry I wiped the parts down with acetone
and then sprayed the primer. If done right the primer will be transparent
which is good so you can see the the identifying markings. The primer seems
to stick like crazy. Even duct tape left on overnight won't pull the paint
off. BTW, this process is for internal surfaces only and not the exterior. I
will use PPG epoxy primer for that.
I hope this helps. There are lots of different ways to accomplish the same
thing.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Buechler" <jkb1(at)voicenet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Help on prep & primers 1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 Date: is
3 to 6 hours after Received: date
>
> I just purchased the empanage kit while down at Sun N Fun and am now
> ready to start construction. Got to test fly a 9 while down there
> also. Very nice. My question is what exactly do you need to do before
> applying primer paint, where to buy it, what kind of primer paint, etc.
> Any help is appreciated. There is a lot of info from various web sites,
> but nothing consistent. Is all you have to do is scotch brite, then
> primer? Or do you need to prep the metal with something, then alodine,
> then primer. Or is a self etching primer sufficient? By the way, in
> following other threads, I bought my tools from Cleveland Tools while at
> Sun N Fun. They have a great tool set. I don't think you will find a
> better rivet squeezer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Help on prep & primers 1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 |
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 21:35:37 -0400
Jim,
Congrats on the purchase!
Priming is a hotly debated subject with all the RV builders. Van's has
stated that you don't need to prim the skins, only select parts;
however, I went overboard according to our local EAA chapter but I hope
to put my RV-9 on floats some day so I think it is worth the effort.
The following is what I do and is not a recommendation, just one guy's
process.
1st. Scotch bright
2nd. Alumni-prep
3rd. Wash it off
4th. Alodine
5th. Wash it off
6th. Let it dry (blowing it off or putting a fan on it helps)
7th. Go to bed
8th. Get up in the morning and paint the parts with SEP brand gray
primer for aluminum. (SEP = Self Etching primer) The stuff comes in a
spray can, holds up to the duct tape test, works great, can be found at
an automotive supply store, there is no paint gun to clean and it dries
in 15 minutes.
9th. Take a shower, eat breakfast, and go to work. Well I used to go to
work until the company made another 25% cut last month. Now I spend my
days looking for work.
Good luck and happy riveting.
Regarding the comment Tim said to Copperhead about not getting married.
My Fiance is my riveting partner. Heck, she even got upset when I told
her I was going to have a friend come over to help rivet the 2nd wing.
This is the same woman who, on one of our first dates helped me bolt a
new roll bar in the Miata I race. I couldn't do this without her and
wouldn't want to. Hey, even her father came over for a three day
weekend to help rivet.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
Ailerons (The fuselage will have to wait until I'm employed again.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Buechler
Subject: RV9-List: Help on prep & primers 1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06 Date:
is 3 to 6 hours after Received: date
I just purchased the empanage kit while down at Sun N Fun and am now
ready to start construction. Got to test fly a 9 while down there
also. Very nice. My question is what exactly do you need to do before
applying primer paint, where to buy it, what kind of primer paint, etc.
Any help is appreciated. There is a lot of info from various web sites,
but nothing consistent. Is all you have to do is scotch brite, then
primer? Or do you need to prep the metal with something, then alodine,
then primer. Or is a self etching primer sufficient? By the way, in
following other threads, I bought my tools from Cleveland Tools while at
Sun N Fun. They have a great tool set. I don't think you will find a
better rivet squeezer.
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
For hand tools etc. The Yard Store. And for specility tools
Cleveland or Aircraft supply. The best is a fellow finished RV builder
Tad
Finish and Firewall RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hill" <khill5(at)indy.rr.com> |
Has anyone mounted the Dynon Pitot tube? Did you mount it in the location specified
by Van's? Is there another mounting bracket other than the Gretz that is
recommended?
I plan to use the Dynon heated unit, and would like to have the mounting bracket
ready when they begin to ship them.
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN
Canopy, and much more to go.
N470JK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
Hi,
I have a Dynon non heated Pitot with a Gretz Aero mount.
It's located just outboard of the 4th rib from the wingtip, probably less
than a foot from the Van location.
Harold Kovac,
finishing up the wings so I can begin the fuselage
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
>
> Has anyone mounted the Dynon Pitot tube? Did you mount it in the location
specified by Van's? Is there another mounting bracket other than the Gretz
that is recommended?
> I plan to use the Dynon heated unit, and would like to have the mounting
bracket ready when they begin to ship them.
> Ken Hill
> Plainfield, IN
> Canopy, and much more to go.
> N470JK (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Harold, is that just the place you chose or did Dynon VANS suggest it? Also
what fitting doiid yiou use to connect onto the Dynon provided ally tubes?
Thaks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Harold Kovac
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
Hi,
I have a Dynon non heated Pitot with a Gretz Aero mount.
It's located just outboard of the 4th rib from the wingtip, probably less
than a foot from the Van location.
Harold Kovac,
finishing up the wings so I can begin the fuselage
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
Hey Ken,
I just finished positioning my GretzAero pitot mount kit. I am using Dynon's
heated pitot as well. I placed mine on the inboard side of the third from
outboard end rib. I first wanted to place it on the fourth rib from
outboard, but that is very close to the tie down ring and the bellcrank
bracket.
Mike
SC
90709 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Hill
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
Has anyone mounted the Dynon Pitot tube? Did you mount it in the location
specified by Van's? Is there another mounting bracket other than the Gretz
that is recommended?
I plan to use the Dynon heated unit, and would like to have the mounting
bracket ready when they begin to ship them.
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN
Canopy, and much more to go.
N470JK (reserved)
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com> |
| Subject: | Power Plant Models |
I am building a -9a What are best model numbers of 0-320 & 0-290 for installation
as per cowling, nosewheel and other necessary clearances. I guess what I
am looking for, is the least amount of modifications. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a recent
EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence forces. A
Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much activity on
9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias against the 9A by
many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any thoughts on this before
I start writing checks.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Power Plant Models |
I think you will find all that info in your builders manual. Glenn in
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Power Plant Models
>
> I am building a -9a What are best model numbers of 0-320 & 0-290 for
installation as per cowling, nosewheel and other necessary clearances. I
guess what I am looking for, is the least amount of modifications. Randy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
I would like to know who told you that and what he based his information on.
Glenn in Arizona -9A wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
>
> I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a
recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much
activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias
against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any
thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
What do you want to do, aerobatics, or a lot of reasonably fast flying from
point A to B .
Stall speed is another consideration, compare the #'s on the Van site, then
you are more likely make an informed decision.
Harold Kovac, 9, wings nearly complete
-- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
>
> I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a
recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much
activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias
against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any
thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
Hi Steve, I just picked the place closest to the original Vans positios so
as not to interfere with the aileron controls.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
>
> Harold, is that just the place you chose or did Dynon VANS suggest it?
Also
> what fitting doiid yiou use to connect onto the Dynon provided ally tubes?
>
> Thaks, Steve.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Harold Kovac
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
>
>
> Hi,
> I have a Dynon non heated Pitot with a Gretz Aero mount.
> It's located just outboard of the 4th rib from the wingtip, probably less
> than a foot from the Van location.
> Harold Kovac,
> finishing up the wings so I can begin the fuselage
> Subject: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
An addendum, if you check, the RV9 is rated utility category, which is as
best I can determine, better than Pipers or Cessnas
Harold Kovac
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
>
> I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a
recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much
activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias
against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any
thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
Nigel Goad wrote:
> I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence forces.
Obviously a 6/7 builder must have told you this. Trust Van's instead.
> There also seems to be alot of bias against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers.
And I am biased against the 3/4/6/7/8 which is why I am building a 9a.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
| From: | Leon Noodle <vcordero(at)juno.com> |
Nigel,
Maybe "they" are referring to the maneuvering speed (speed to not exceed
in turbulent air) of the VA which is about 112Kts and much lower than
that of other RV's, about 130kts. Also the Vne speed ( never exceed
speed) of the RV9 is lower than that of other RV's. While other RV's are
build for acrobatics the RV9 is not and has a lower positive and negative
G force rating.
No problem. That's why I am also building the RV9A.
Victor (#90317)
Daytona Beach, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
Nigel
Quite some time ago, Van published the RV-9A V-N diagram in the RVator. It
shows the aircraft to be a 3.8 g Normal Category design at the 1750 pound
gross weight. Above the 3.8 g Limit Load and below the 5.7 g Design Load
there can be structural deformation but no catastrophic failure. Also this
aircraft was designed under the Part 23, 50 foot per second sharp-edged gust
criteria as opposed to the 30 fps criteria that most of the single engine
Cessnas and Pipers were designed to. The 50 fps gust does not impose 3.8 g
until airspeed reaches 180 mph IAS Design Cruise Speed and approx 4.2 g at
the 210 mph IAS Vne ( Redline ). I consider the 9A to be a very sound
design and readily accept that it does not meet the 6 g Limit and 9 g Design
loads of the Aerobatic Category. I don't have the numbers on the RV-7 and
RV-8, but the RV-6 only meets the Aerobatic Category at a reduced weight.
In addition, the 7 mph reduction in landing speed of the 9/9A is all
goodness in my book. I admit that my primary interest is in a good
cross-country airplane and I consider that the RV-9A is the best bang for
the buck in that category. I hope this information will help you make the
same decision that I did.
Dean Van Winkle Retired Aero Engineer
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
>
> I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a
recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much
activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias
against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any
thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Thanks for all the responses.
I guess shock value should be left to the like's of Mr Stern.
I look forward to starting the 9A soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
Personnel at Van's have told me that when going cross country, if they have
a choice, the ALL take the RV-9A. That tells me something.
The only reason for choosing a -7 over a -9 is to do aerobatics or to look
macho as one who does aerobatics. The -8 is the choice for those who want
tandem seating, the -3 for people who want a single place plane.
I have ridden in a 4 and a few 6's, but not 7's or 8's. In the 6 the plane
rolls so nicely that you just don't want to fly straight & level. Really
fun, but you have to stay on it or you can easily start climbing or diving
300 fpm without realizing it. Pitch feel is really light and takes some
getting used to. A friend with close to 300 hrs in his -6 still drifts off
altitude without feeling it. The 9, although it doesn't roll as nicely, is
less work to fly.
Why people buy the -4 is a mystery as it is only suitable for those who
want a 2 place with tandem seating but have no friends other than kids,
midgets or small dogs.
Richard Scott
At 07:57 AM 5/15/2004, you wrote:
>
>I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At a
>recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
>forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not
>much activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of
>bias against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear
>any thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
>Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
I just checked Van's web site, there are now 88 RV-9/9A's flying. If
the wings "would break in 3-4 g turbulence forces." then there would be
-9/9A parts all over the country and we would have all heard about the
wing failures.
Do you remember when the -8/8A first came out and there was a wing
failure on a demo flight? Killed in the crash was Van's demo pilot,
who's name I can't remember, and a potential customer. There was a LOT
of talk that the new spar design wasn't as good as the laminated design
used in the 3/4/6, bla, bla, bla. Well Van's tested a set of wings
built by a customer because they felt that customer built wings wouldn't
be as good as a set built by Van's staff. The wings held up to a load
greater than the design limit and 8/8A sales continues to climb and the
critics stopped being so critical. No one knows for sure what happened
but the "rumor" is that the customer just yanked on the stick and pulled
the wings off. The same thing could happen to any of the Van's designs,
if enough G's are pulled.
I also remember talking to a USAF friend of mine who said if you pulse
the stick back and forth, you can over load it very quickly w/o
deviating from your altitude and pull snap the wings very quickly. Who
knows if that happened but it is a possibility.
Note: I'm not passing judgment on either of the two people who perished
in the tragic accident, just trying to make a point. I wasn't there and
don't know what happened and the only two who do know can't say.
The short of it is, build the airplane you like and build it well.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
Ailerons
PS. Just returned from the first Mid Atlantic Fly in in Lumberton, NC.
A friend invited me to join him in his Europa, a very nice plane but a
little to small for me. For a first event, it was fantastic! I saw a
bunch of RV's there including a very nice -9A, I didn't get the N-number
but it was nice. Spoke briefly to the owner/builder but we never
exchanged names, dumb move on my part.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
Personnel at Van's have told me that when going cross country, if they
have
a choice, the ALL take the RV-9A. That tells me something.
The only reason for choosing a -7 over a -9 is to do aerobatics or to
look
macho as one who does aerobatics. The -8 is the choice for those who
want
tandem seating, the -3 for people who want a single place plane.
I have ridden in a 4 and a few 6's, but not 7's or 8's. In the 6 the
plane
rolls so nicely that you just don't want to fly straight & level.
Really
fun, but you have to stay on it or you can easily start climbing or
diving
300 fpm without realizing it. Pitch feel is really light and takes some
getting used to. A friend with close to 300 hrs in his -6 still drifts
off
altitude without feeling it. The 9, although it doesn't roll as nicely,
is
less work to fly.
Why people buy the -4 is a mystery as it is only suitable for those who
want a 2 place with tandem seating but have no friends other than kids,
midgets or small dogs.
Richard Scott
At 07:57 AM 5/15/2004, you wrote:
>
>I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A. At
>a
>recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g
turbulence
>forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not
>much activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot
of
>bias against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to
hear
>any thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
>Thanks
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
Good to hear reinforcing info from professionals. It's easy to let the mind
wander off track and start worrying about stuff like this when you are up to
your elbows in ProSeal and producing more great four letter words than
bucked fuel tank rivets. I was just a sideline listener to this topic, but
thanks for the reality check. There is an article in the June 2004 Flying
magazine on page 98 that has a lot of interesting info on this very subject.
Regards,
Mike
SC
90709 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
Nigel
Quite some time ago, Van published the RV-9A V-N diagram in the RVator. It
shows the aircraft to be a 3.8 g Normal Category design at the 1750 pound
gross weight. Above the 3.8 g Limit Load and below the 5.7 g Design Load
there can be structural deformation but no catastrophic failure. Also this
aircraft was designed under the Part 23, 50 foot per second sharp-edged gust
criteria as opposed to the 30 fps criteria that most of the single engine
Cessnas and Pipers were designed to. The 50 fps gust does not impose 3.8 g
until airspeed reaches 180 mph IAS Design Cruise Speed and approx 4.2 g at
the 210 mph IAS Vne ( Redline ). I consider the 9A to be a very sound
design and readily accept that it does not meet the 6 g Limit and 9 g Design
loads of the Aerobatic Category. I don't have the numbers on the RV-7 and
RV-8, but the RV-6 only meets the Aerobatic Category at a reduced weight.
In addition, the 7 mph reduction in landing speed of the 9/9A is all
goodness in my book. I admit that my primary interest is in a good
cross-country airplane and I consider that the RV-9A is the best bang for
the buck in that category. I hope this information will help you make the
same decision that I did.
Dean Van Winkle Retired Aero Engineer
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
>
> I am on the verge of becoming a new builder and my choice is the 9A.
> At a
recent EAA fly in, I was told that the 9A would break in 3-4 g turbulence
forces. A Vans rep said this was not the case. Apparently there is not much
activity on 9A kit sales at present. There also seems to be alot of bias
against the 9A by many 6 and 7 builder/flyers. I would like to hear any
thoughts on this before I start writing checks.
> Thanks
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
Richard Scott wrote:
>
>Personnel at Van's have told me that when going cross country, if they have
>a choice, the ALL take the RV-9A. That tells me something.
>
>The only reason for choosing a -7 over a -9 is to do aerobatics or to look
>macho as one who does aerobatics. The -8 is the choice for those who want
>tandem seating, the -3 for people who want a single place plane.
>
>I have ridden in a 4 and a few 6's, but not 7's or 8's. In the 6 the plane
>rolls so nicely that you just don't want to fly straight & level. Really
>fun, but you have to stay on it or you can easily start climbing or diving
>300 fpm without realizing it. Pitch feel is really light and takes some
>getting used to. A friend with close to 300 hrs in his -6 still drifts off
>altitude without feeling it. The 9, although it doesn't roll as nicely, is
>less work to fly.
>
>Why people buy the -4 is a mystery as it is only suitable for those who
>want a 2 place with tandem seating but have no friends other than kids,
>midgets or small dogs.
>
>Richard Scott
>
A couple of good reasons are:
1. MONEY (my reason for both I've owned). -4's are much cheaper than
-6's if you are buying one already flying.
2. Handling. Boy, do they fly nice; noticably better than -6's.
If they are built light, you can still carry normal sized humans +
luggage in the back; you just have to watch GW if you have a back-seater
& you want to do acro.
Charlie
Slobovia Outernational Airport
(Those of you in striking distance of central Mississippi, please come
on down for some BBQ June 5.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Organisational advice to our new builder. |
Tad wrote:-
For hand tools etc. The Yard Store. And for specility tools
Cleveland or Aircraft supply. The best is a fellow finished
I second this and it's worth noting that if you call them by phone and ask about
used tolls you may be able to get good quality serviceable tools even cheaper.
I got a US Tools 3X rivet gun for $89. Excellent buy.
Regarding the organisation of the small parts. I'd finished my empennage and started
the wings before I finally decided that it was far more efficient to empty
the bags of rivets and nut plates and organise them in the small parts boxes
you can get from places like Home Depot, Sears or Dixieline. They come in
different sizes and the StackOn ones were the best I found. Put all your 470
rivets in one box and all the 426s in another. Spares can be left in the bags
until needed. Unlike the parts bins these can be closed securely when you aren't
taking rivets out. This also keeps dust, metal filings and dirt out. They
work well for nut plates, #6 and #8 screws, rod ends, grommets, bearings, AN
pipe fittings and also the smaller nuts bolts and washers. I suggest a separate
box for each kind of fastener. Label each partition with a printed label
or a Sharpie. I assume you've cut up the packing crate and used it to make a
shelf under your work bench - if so this is the perfect place to stack your parts
trays.
The rivets are far easier to use like this since the entire tray can be taken to
the part of the plane you are working on. You will also find it necessary to
place several different sizes when filling a line across the skins. The box
will put them in easy reach while you are working.
Just my .02.
Good luck everyone.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9A-Turbulence |
I have ridden in the back seat of a -4. Not a place for full grown adults
except for small women, maybe. I am 6'2" & 165 lb. and the space got
pretty tight pretty quick. No room to change positions when the butt got
tired. When the pilot put the flaps down my chin was on my knee. Electric
flaps would have helped, but a 1 hr. flight would still have been pretty long.
Richard Scott
At 07:40 PM 5/15/2004, you wrote:
>
>Richard Scott wrote:
>
> >
> >Personnel at Van's have told me that when going cross country, if they have
> >a choice, the ALL take the RV-9A. That tells me something.
> >
> >The only reason for choosing a -7 over a -9 is to do aerobatics or to look
> >macho as one who does aerobatics. The -8 is the choice for those who want
> >tandem seating, the -3 for people who want a single place plane.
> >
> >I have ridden in a 4 and a few 6's, but not 7's or 8's. In the 6 the plane
> >rolls so nicely that you just don't want to fly straight & level. Really
> >fun, but you have to stay on it or you can easily start climbing or diving
> >300 fpm without realizing it. Pitch feel is really light and takes some
> >getting used to. A friend with close to 300 hrs in his -6 still drifts off
> >altitude without feeling it. The 9, although it doesn't roll as nicely, is
> >less work to fly.
> >
> >Why people buy the -4 is a mystery as it is only suitable for those who
> >want a 2 place with tandem seating but have no friends other than kids,
> >midgets or small dogs.
> >
> >Richard Scott
> >
>
>A couple of good reasons are:
>1. MONEY (my reason for both I've owned). -4's are much cheaper than
>-6's if you are buying one already flying.
>2. Handling. Boy, do they fly nice; noticably better than -6's.
>
>If they are built light, you can still carry normal sized humans +
>luggage in the back; you just have to watch GW if you have a back-seater
>& you want to do acro.
>
>Charlie
>Slobovia Outernational Airport
>(Those of you in striking distance of central Mississippi, please come
>on down for some BBQ June 5.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
I have to agree with Richard on this point. I'm 6'-0", 200 lbs and my
shoulders where hunched so far forward it was extremely uncomfortable
for the 1/2 hour flight. Not only that my head was on the canopy for
the entire flight.
Still, what a great flying airplane. It rolls and loops so
effortlessly! I can only wish I were in the front seat for that flight.
Claudio, the guy who built and flew the RV-4, "Purple Passion", that I
got to ride in is a small person in physical stature so it fit him and
most of his passengers like an RV-8 would fit me and my passengers.
That said, it is my understanding that he is now building an RV-8.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV9A-Turbulence
I have ridden in the back seat of a -4. Not a place for full grown
adults
except for small women, maybe. I am 6'2" & 165 lb. and the space got
pretty tight pretty quick. No room to change positions when the butt
got
tired. When the pilot put the flaps down my chin was on my knee.
Electric
flaps would have helped, but a 1 hr. flight would still have been pretty
long.
Richard Scott
At 07:40 PM 5/15/2004, you wrote:
>-->
>
>Richard Scott wrote:
>
> >-->
> >
> >Personnel at Van's have told me that when going cross country, if
> >they have a choice, the ALL take the RV-9A. That tells me something.
> >
> >The only reason for choosing a -7 over a -9 is to do aerobatics or to
> >look macho as one who does aerobatics. The -8 is the choice for
> >those who want tandem seating, the -3 for people who want a single
> >place plane.
> >
> >I have ridden in a 4 and a few 6's, but not 7's or 8's. In the 6 the
> >plane rolls so nicely that you just don't want to fly straight &
> >level. Really fun, but you have to stay on it or you can easily
> >start climbing or diving 300 fpm without realizing it. Pitch feel is
> >really light and takes some getting used to. A friend with close to
> >300 hrs in his -6 still drifts off altitude without feeling it. The
> >9, although it doesn't roll as nicely, is less work to fly.
> >
> >Why people buy the -4 is a mystery as it is only suitable for those
> >who want a 2 place with tandem seating but have no friends other than
> >kids, midgets or small dogs.
> >
> >Richard Scott
> >
>
>A couple of good reasons are:
>1. MONEY (my reason for both I've owned). -4's are much cheaper than
>-6's if you are buying one already flying. 2. Handling. Boy, do they
>fly nice; noticably better than -6's.
>
>If they are built light, you can still carry normal sized humans +
>luggage in the back; you just have to watch GW if you have a
>back-seater & you want to do acro.
>
>Charlie
>Slobovia Outernational Airport
>(Those of you in striking distance of central Mississippi, please come
>on down for some BBQ June 5.)
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
If every plane Van builds is as good as my 9A, there are many satisfied
pilot/builders around. The 9 is a great plane, my wife and I have over 200
hours on mine this last year and love it. I don't do aerobatics so this is a
good choice for me. Good range and low operating costs plus its very easy to
fly and land. Burning under 8 gph in cruise at today's prices is kind of
nice while doing 135-145 kts. And cross wind handling is great. We just made
a weekend trip from Yuma to Kingman, AZ (pancake breakfast) to Cable, CA
(friends graduation) and had a great time. Had some wind from WSW of about
12-18 kts both days but nice flying. Here are engine on to engine off
elapsed times:
KYUM (216') to KIGM (3,449') 160 nm 1.3 hrs = 123 kts avg speed. at 9,500'
KIGM (3,449') to KCCB (1,439') 200 nm 1.7 hrs = 117 kts avg speed at 10.500'
KCCB (1,439') to KYUM (216') 181 nm 1.3 hrs = 139 kts avg speed at 9,500'
BTW, Cable airport is a great place to visit and Maniac Mike's cafe is top
notch as is Mike himself. A RV3, 4, 6, 7, 8 or 10 may or may not do it
quicker but this is the most fun you can have.
Buy a Vans kit, build it, fly it, have too much fun.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
I have it on good authority that Van's uses the 9A demonstrator to commute
from his home strip to work every day.
***********
This may be true. However, when I've visited, I've seen RV-4 #2 parked outside
the hanger. Many times, I've been at the airport as Van takes off in this plane
and heads home. It definitely needs a new cowl - you should see the cracks!!
No matter which model he chooses to go home in, ...geez, what a ride. Oh well,
I'm still thankful for my '79 BMW. It works, and I'm not far enough away from
work to fly. Bummer...
Bruce
RV-10 40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
Albert, thanks for the report of your trip.
What engine are you using, cruise rpm etc?
>
> If every plane Van builds is as good as my 9A, there are many satisfied
> pilot/builders around. The 9 is a great plane, my wife and I have over 200
> hours on mine this last year and love it. I don't do aerobatics so this is a
> good choice for me. Good range and low operating costs plus its very easy to
> fly and land. Burning under 8 gph in cruise at today's prices is kind of
> nice while doing 135-145 kts. And cross wind handling is great. We just made
> a weekend trip from Yuma to Kingman, AZ (pancake breakfast) to Cable, CA
> (friends graduation) and had a great time. Had some wind from WSW of about
> 12-18 kts both days but nice flying. Here are engine on to engine off
> elapsed times:
> KYUM (216') to KIGM (3,449') 160 nm 1.3 hrs = 123 kts avg speed. at 9,500'
> KIGM (3,449') to KCCB (1,439') 200 nm 1.7 hrs = 117 kts avg speed at 10.500'
> KCCB (1,439') to KYUM (216') 181 nm 1.3 hrs = 139 kts avg speed at 9,500'
> BTW, Cable airport is a great place to visit and Maniac Mike's cafe is top
> notch as is Mike himself. A RV3, 4, 6, 7, 8 or 10 may or may not do it
> quicker but this is the most fun you can have.
> Buy a Vans kit, build it, fly it, have too much fun.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
My 9A has a Lyc 150 hp, Sensenich fp that Van recommends (70CM 77" pitch)
and empty is 1104 lbs. The redline on this prop is 2600 but I find it hard
to achieve so I may repitch it slightly. I cruise at 2300 and plan on 138
kts TAS.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder, Aileron, and Flap wedge Jig |
Ok gang, I figured out an easy way to hold the wedges while
countersinking them.
I made a simple jig out of a piece of 2x4, and two other scraps of wood
I had laying around my shop from a prior project (wine rack).
I screwed two small "1 by" boards on top of the 2x4 using four screws in
each piece. The width between them is equal to the width of the
aluminum wedge. I then cut a slot out of the "1 by" boards down to the
2x4. The width of this cut is not critical but it has to be wide enough
for the countersink tool to fit in. It is also handy for clearing out
chips while you countersink.
Next up was to take the small section of your wedge that was cut off to
fit your part. Cut that section in half, drill, and nail it to the jig.
I used small finish nails and set them below the surface of the wedge.
Don't forget to route out a small hole in the 2x4 between the two wedge
slices for the tip of the countersink tool.
Now you can slide the drilled wedge down between the boards and its
surface will be horizontal, making easy work of countersinking.
Total time to build the jig, about 15 minutes. Time saved in
countersinking, hours if not days (waiting for the replacement wedge to
arrive.)
You can see a picture of it at the bottom of my aileron & flaps web
page, http://www.repucci.com/bill/ailerons.html.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge help |
I am ready to rivet the trailing edge of my first aileron. Should I
proseal and cleco it to a piece of angle, like Van's recommends for the
trailing edge of the rudder?
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Bracket Bushing |
Hello,
I need to press fit the flap bracket bushing to the flap bracket. Should I
drill the bracket out to 3/8 or should it be slightly Undersize? If
undersize, what size have people used?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Pete Howell
The Gecko Group
651-645-1324 Office
651-334-5479 Mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Bracket Bushing |
Pete
It has been quite a while since I installed the subject bushings, but my
recollection is that the brackets were already bored for the proper
interference fit of the bushings. To install the bushings, I used a 1/4
inch dia bolt with a washer, then the bushing on one side of the bracket and
a 1/4 inch drive socket that will comfortably clear the bushing OD on the
other side and draw the bushing into place using a nut. If you go too far
it is easy to reverse the process. This also insures that the bushing starts
in square with the bore. This approach will usually work for installation
of many sizes of press in bushings.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap Bracket Bushing
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I need to press fit the flap bracket bushing to the flap bracket. Should
I
> drill the bracket out to 3/8 or should it be slightly Undersize? If
> undersize, what size have people used?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete Howell
> The Gecko Group
> 651-645-1324 Office
> 651-334-5479 Mobile
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Bracket Bushing |
Some brackets were made incorrectly, leaving the hole way too small.
Contact Van's for advice if you're in that situation.
If it is just a little undersize (Van's called this a "tap fit", it was
more like a "mallet fit" for me) -- I used a dremel tool with a sanding drum
to clean out primer and debur/smooth. Go slow, don't remove too much.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> Hello,
>
> I need to press fit the flap bracket bushing to the flap bracket. Should I
> drill the bracket out to 3/8 or should it be slightly Undersize? If
> undersize, what size have people used?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete Howell
> The Gecko Group
> 651-645-1324 Office
> 651-334-5479 Mobile
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge help |
I prosealed it and was happy with the results. I don't know about your
aileron, but my TE was quite warped before prosealing -- it would seem
to be difficult to keep things lined up nicely during riveting without
the proseal.
Also, note that the rivet callouts for the TE are wrong -- use 3.5's.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> I am ready to rivet the trailing edge of my first aileron. Should I
> proseal and cleco it to a piece of angle, like Van's recommends for the
> trailing edge of the rudder?
>
> Bill R.
> RV-9
> SN: 90737
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge help |
Bill, RTV works also. AS does clear silicone. What you are aiming for is something
to dampen any vibration to isolate a potential trailing edge crack. Hey
did not see you at the last 309 meeting. Still involved?
"Bill Repucci" wrote:
>
>I am ready to rivet the trailing edge of my first aileron. Should I
>proseal and cleco it to a piece of angle, like Van's recommends for the
>trailing edge of the rudder?
>
>Bill R.
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge help |
Here's how I did my elevator TR--The aileron is similar, is it not?
I found this idea in the Rv List archives in a post by Dale Larson. I
tried a variation of it & my elevator trailing edge came out very straight,
better than the rudder, where I followed Van's procedure, & it didn't
involve ProSeal.
I acquired a piece or 2.5 X 2.5" angle iron 1/4" thick, 6.5' long & spent
the morning smoothing one side, filing & sanding. Clamped that to the edge
of my bench & set beside it a piece of 1/4" plywood to keep everything
lying on a flat surface. Set the rivets in place, secured them with my
rivet tape (electrical tape), flipped it over & set the TE on the angle
iron. Weighted it down next to the rivet line with a 2 X 4. Then started
back riveting every 10th rivet part way, then every 5th rivet, then all of
them, pressing the skin tight against the AEX wedge as I went. With all
rivets set about half way, I flipped it over & set them the rest of the
way. Came out as straight as can be & no ProSeal to mess with, no waiting
for it to cure. Probably took 1-1.5 hours. I plan to do the ailerons &
flaps this way as it is faster & easier than the method shown in the plans,
which makes the time spent smoothing the angle iron worthwhile, and it can
be shared with others.
Richard Scott
At 02:07 PM 5/23/2004, you wrote:
>
>I am ready to rivet the trailing edge of my first aileron. Should I
>proseal and cleco it to a piece of angle, like Van's recommends for the
>trailing edge of the rudder?
>
>Bill R.
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge help |
Since this subject has generated a lot of discussion, both public and
privet, I thought I would publish how I riveted the trailing edge of my
first aileron on my web site, http://www.repucci.com/bill/ailerons.html.
The picture of the trailing edge is a little blurry but trust me, it is
straight.
From the notes I've received there are about as many different ways to
rivet these trailing edges as there are engine choices for all the RV's
combined. So far, I haven't heard a bad suggestion, which tells me
there are going to be some very nice RV-9/9A's flying soon.
Bill
RV-9
SN: 90737
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Repucci
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron trailing edge help
I am ready to rivet the trailing edge of my first aileron. Should I
proseal and cleco it to a piece of angle, like Van's recommends for the
trailing edge of the rudder?
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
Is there any benefit from one type of mount to another? Dynafocal vs Conical?
....Neil Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
Yes, one will fit your engine the other won't. Lycoming makes two
different mounting configurations. The difference is in the angle that
the bolts go through with respect to the engine.
Jim Brandvold
N209RV
Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Is there any benefit from one type of mount to another? Dynafocal vs Conical?
>....Neil Florida
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
Yes, I know there is a difference between the two mounts. I think you can
order either from Vans. Is one stronger or better. I think ones is easier to
mount?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Jim,
The other is with the dynafocal mounts, there is a reduction of
vibration transmitted to the airframe.
Jim Nelson
writes:
>
>
> Yes, one will fit your engine the other won't. Lycoming makes two
> different mounting configurations. The difference is in the angle
> that
> the bolts go through with respect to the engine.
>
> Jim Brandvold
> N209RV
>
> Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Is there any benefit from one type of mount to another? Dynafocal
> vs Conical?
> >....Neil Florida
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ladyrat01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
I have not asked to be on this list please get me off or i will report you
TWATS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
Anyone that has the article Van's put in the RVator about putting a 180hp
O-360 in the 9A, could you please tell me what the reasons against it were?
I know they say it could go too fast but was that the only reason or was
there more?
I am getting to the point of needing to become a little more serious about
looking for engines. I am not set on 180 by any means, but I also have not
yet ruled that out if I can get one for the right price. It seems to me
that 160 horse O-320's always seem higher in price. I definitely plan on a
fixed pitch prop and if speed is the only real arguement then I plan to
leave the O-360 as an option if the right one comes by at the right price.
I do not find throttling back hard at all. Although it is a different
animal, the Kitfox I currently fly is "overpowered" at 65hp and once level
you have to come back on the power a good bit not to exceed the 100mph Vne.
This is just a completely routine practice for me.
Back to work now. The boss is gone for the weekend, the weather sucks for
Kitfox flying, and I am getting a bunch done.
Thanks,
Scott DellAngelo
90598 wings almost done, fuselage ordered
Plainfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Scott,
I have been looking at the O-360 with the low compression
pistons. That version only puts out 167 HP. Its has been one of my
choices due to costs. Also, prime reason I am considering it, is that it
will burn anything in the way of gas. With the low compression pistons,
(7.5 : 1) it is rated for 80/87 octane. So car gas and av gas (100 LL)
are all reasonable to fly with. Looking at the long term for fuel
availability. The weight is 260# unless you get the version that has the
heavy weight crank and rods which weighs about 290#.
Jim
writes:
>
>
> Anyone that has the article Van's put in the RVator about putting a
> 180hp
> O-360 in the 9A, could you please tell me what the reasons against
> it were?
> I know they say it could go too fast but was that the only reason or
> was
> there more?
>
> I am getting to the point of needing to become a little more serious
> about
> looking for engines. I am not set on 180 by any means, but I also
> have not
> yet ruled that out if I can get one for the right price. It seems
> to me
> that 160 horse O-320's always seem higher in price. I definitely
> plan on a
> fixed pitch prop and if speed is the only real arguement then I plan
> to
> leave the O-360 as an option if the right one comes by at the right
> price.
> I do not find throttling back hard at all. Although it is a
> different
> animal, the Kitfox I currently fly is "overpowered" at 65hp and once
> level
> you have to come back on the power a good bit not to exceed the
> 100mph Vne.
> This is just a completely routine practice for me.
>
> Back to work now. The boss is gone for the weekend, the weather
> sucks for
> Kitfox flying, and I am getting a bunch done.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott DellAngelo
> 90598 wings almost done, fuselage ordered
> Plainfield, IL
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
Before you put an 0-360 on an RV9, calculate the weight difference. I'm
flying my 9 on 150hp and performs great.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportpilot(at)moneypit.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
I am building a rv9 and planning on a 150 or 160 and wanted to get some
numbers on that motor ? what type of
numbers are you seeing with 150hp ? anyone doing turbo normalizing ? sounds
like something for maintaining that
hp at 10-12000 foot anyone know about this ? carb or Fuel injection ?
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article?
>
> Before you put an 0-360 on an RV9, calculate the weight difference. I'm
> flying my 9 on 150hp and performs great.
>
> Dennis Thomas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
Hi Dan,
I'm flying a 150 HP in a 9 tail dragger. I'm using fixed pitch sesenich
prop. It is actually a cruise prop, 78 inch pitch rather than Van's reccomended
77 inch pitch. The actual performance testing has not been done yet, but I can
lift off and climb out, indicating 90 mph and climbing at 800 fpm. At max
power I can eak out a 190 mph and at 50 % power about 160.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone have RVator with 180hp O-360 article? |
Have you thought about getting a 150 hp ported to give you the extra hp and
still let you burn reg. gas? Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Is anybody flying a Chelton EFIS? Do you like it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass(at)look.ca> |
Is there any special rivet set required for doing wings and fuselage on RV9A?
Does anyone have one for sale? I'm also looking for a straight hand seamer - not
off set.
Thanks.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
To rivet the ribs to the main and rear spars you will need an offset, rivet
set. If you have not used an offset before, I would advise you to practise
with it before attempting to use it on your airplane. Don't ask me why I say
this.
They are not expensive.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GB <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where
you have proseal on them.
If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will
be shipped in a few weeks.
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Hi Glen,
You may be thinking of a countersink. The only place I remember setting
rivets in proseal are in control surface trailing edges and in the fuel tanks.
These are all flush rivets and of course would be driven with a standard flush
set. Cleveland Tool Co does sell a counter sink cutter just for these rivets.
It cuts just a bit larger countersink to allow for the thickness of the
proseal.
I did not buy this cutter until after I started my first tank. I very
carefully countersunk the tank skins to good, dry fit, for the rivets. However
after setting the rivets, in proseal, they were all high. At that point there
wasn't much I could do but leave them or grind them down.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
You can also use a long set (~12") to get those flanges instead of the offset.
I find it a bit more stable and there are no problems with rotation.
I also bought a 10-degree angled set for the flap attach brackets. I couldn't
get the job done with any of the usual sets.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
> To rivet the ribs to the main and rear spars you will need an offset, rivet
> set. If you have not used an offset before, I would advise you to practise
> with it before attempting to use it on your airplane. Don't ask me why I say
> this.
> They are not expensive.
> Dennis Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
Glen,
You can order these from Cleveland Tools.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp
I ordered a set just last week, so I can't say how they work, but they
apparently do what they are supposed to do. Here is a link to a review
done by Sam Buchanan:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tankdies.html
Have Fun!
Mike Schipper
-9A Wings
http://www.my9a.com
On Jun 1, 2004, at 12:02 PM, GB wrote:
>
> I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where
> you have proseal on them.
> If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will
> be shipped in a few weeks.
>
> Glen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
Cleveland Aircraft Tool (Boone Iowa, www.clevelandtool.com) sells Tank Dies
(DIE426-3T) that are a little deeper than the standard dies. This provides
room for the proseal. I also used them on the inner layers when ever I was
stacking three or more layers of metal together as this provided a little
more for seating.
Dave Nicholson
----- Original Message -----
From: "GB" <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV9-List: rivet set
>
> I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where
> you have proseal on them.
> If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will
> be shipped in a few weeks.
>
> Glen
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Any one out there useing a Chelton EFIS ? Or any EFIS....Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Actually you are both either thinking of the wrong thing or using the
wrong words.
What Cleaveland Tool (note correct spelling) sells is dimple dies for
the fuel tank. These are a little larger than the standard dies to
allow for the proseal under the heads of the rivets when you assemble
the tanks.
You can also use these dies to dimple the bottom parts when you are
connecting two (or more) dimpled parts together to give a little better
fit between the top and bottom parts.
Regarding the fuel tank, if you do not want to buy the tank dimple dies,
you can also use the standard dimple die and then do a bit of
countersinking to the skin dimples so the rivet fits a little below the
surface (about 0.007" without the proseal). Then when you do the final
assembly with the proseal, the rivet heads will be flush with the skin
like those on other parts of the plane.
Dick Tasker, 90573 Fuselage & finishing
DThomas773(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi Glen,
>You may be thinking of a countersink. The only place I remember setting
>rivets in proseal are in control surface trailing edges and in the fuel tanks.
>These are all flush rivets and of course would be driven with a standard flush
>set. Cleveland Tool Co does sell a counter sink cutter just for these rivets.
>It cuts just a bit larger countersink to allow for the thickness of the
>proseal.
>I did not buy this cutter until after I started my first tank. I very
>carefully countersunk the tank skins to good, dry fit, for the rivets. However
>after setting the rivets, in proseal, they were all high. At that point there
>wasn't much I could do but leave them or grind them down.
>
>Dennis
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Has anyone experience of installing the Dynon probe AFTER the bottom skin is
on? I would be interested in any views as to how best to solve this problem.
One possibility is to install it on the inspection hatch but I am not too
keen on that since I worry opening the hatch will upset the pipework.
Thanks Steve.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
A long (12" or so) back rivet set for the top skins works well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass(at)look.ca>
Subject: RV9-List: Rivet Sets
>
> Is there any special rivet set required for doing wings and fuselage on
RV9A?
> Does anyone have one for sale? I'm also looking for a straight hand
seamer - not off set.
>
> Thanks.
> Cliff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Steve,
It's not a problem. You will want to put it in the same bay as the vans
probe, as there is an access plate there. Don't put it on the inspection
plate, put it on the rib on either side. It needs to go next to a rib, on
the forward side of the spar. You will need to drill out a few rivets in
the rib to install it, and plug the hole you drilled for the vans tube.
Takes about two hours.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone.
>
> Has anyone experience of installing the Dynon probe AFTER the bottom skin
is
> on? I would be interested in any views as to how best to solve this
problem.
> One possibility is to install it on the inspection hatch but I am not too
> keen on that since I worry opening the hatch will upset the pipework.
>
> Thanks Steve.
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Steve, take a look at http://www.rv8.ch/ which shows the Dynon probe
being installed in a Gretz mount in a wing access panel.
Leland
Received the Gretz mount but waiting for a heated Dynon probe to ship
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
I will probably get a flurry of admonishment for this, but let me tell you
my story.
Luckly there are a ton of guyts building RVs in my EAA chapter 326.
Visiting their projects I learned of how on the fuel tanks the flush rivets
would set proud. Especially on the line of the rear baffles.
Anyway, I dimpled all of mine with the regular dimple dies, I didn't
purchase the "Special Fuel Tank Dies". What I did do however was to test
fit dry and then use my hand deburring tool (which is basically a
countersink bit) and take out a little material until the rivets set a tad
below the skin, dry!
Most all of my rivets came out flush with the skin and the very few that
were just a bit high I was able to take down even with just a little bit of
sanding. The tanks came out really nice and believe me, I used a Bunch of
ProSeal! This was my first time building fuel tanks also, So I was quite
happy.
You know it is always best to buy Good tools and the Right tools, but
sometimes not every special tool is absolutely required.
Terry Hobert RV 9A fuselage, ready for finish kit.
>From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: rivet set
>Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 14:15:10 -0400
>
>
>Actually you are both either thinking of the wrong thing or using the
>wrong words.
>
>What Cleaveland Tool (note correct spelling) sells is dimple dies for
>the fuel tank. These are a little larger than the standard dies to
>allow for the proseal under the heads of the rivets when you assemble
>the tanks.
>
>You can also use these dies to dimple the bottom parts when you are
>connecting two (or more) dimpled parts together to give a little better
>fit between the top and bottom parts.
>
>Regarding the fuel tank, if you do not want to buy the tank dimple dies,
>you can also use the standard dimple die and then do a bit of
>countersinking to the skin dimples so the rivet fits a little below the
>surface (about 0.007" without the proseal). Then when you do the final
>assembly with the proseal, the rivet heads will be flush with the skin
>like those on other parts of the plane.
>
>Dick Tasker, 90573 Fuselage & finishing
>
>DThomas773(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi Glen,
> >You may be thinking of a countersink. The only place I remember setting
> >rivets in proseal are in control surface trailing edges and in the fuel
>tanks.
> >These are all flush rivets and of course would be driven with a standard
>flush
> >set. Cleveland Tool Co does sell a counter sink cutter just for these
>rivets.
> >It cuts just a bit larger countersink to allow for the thickness of the
> >proseal.
> >I did not buy this cutter until after I started my first tank. I very
> >carefully countersunk the tank skins to good, dry fit, for the rivets.
>However
> >after setting the rivets, in proseal, they were all high. At that point
>there
> >wasn't much I could do but leave them or grind them down.
> >
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Leland - is the link address correct? I cant make it work. Thanks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing
anyone.
Steve, take a look at http://www.rv8.ch/ which shows the Dynon probe
being installed in a Gretz mount in a wing access panel.
Leland
Received the Gretz mount but waiting for a heated Dynon probe to ship
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Dale / Leland - thanks. You are both encouraging! I will take a good look
tomorrow. Steve.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Liz Taylor <n7011n(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer |
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past
the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery
Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing
shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along
with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools.
Several items were added after the original purchase
and are not reflected in the original invoice. These
items are listed below:
-Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque
Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the
cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate
enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the
head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs,
I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199
online.
-Adjustable Rivet Cutter
-Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great
addition since you'll frequently change the yokes)
-2nd cleco wrench
-Boelube-tube
These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over
the invoice price shown below of $2,422.
2 items that show up on the original invoice are not
included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B
cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up
1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck
apiece depending on the bit.
All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used
them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits
and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great
quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with
adjustable set holder are not included in the basic
Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to
compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also
upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle
finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink
cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that
I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it
looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased
these. To replace everything today would likely top
$3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be
willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items
I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will
need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also
require payment via cashier's check made out to my
name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at
312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard(at)taylorbruce.com.
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-Grand Rapids EFIS |
Misspelled(at)matronics.com, medication(at)matronics.com, name(at)matronics.com
Any one out there flying with a grand rapids EFIS...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
If you haven't used a pneumatic rivet squeezer, have someone demonstrate it
to you. My first choice to install any rivet is usually, 1-pneumatic
squeezer, 2-hand squeezer, and 3-rivet gun.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking. |
Need opinions on fix!
Hi, folks! I've appreciated all the help people have given on this
list, and now I've got my first major screw-up to deal with. I'm a new
RV-9 builder working on my horizontal stabilizer, and made a mistake
countersinking the spars - I went too deep. I did not read section 5 of
the manual carefully enough and tried to countersink enough to get the
dimpled skin material to lie flush on the spar. Bad idea! Now many of
the holes are slightly enlarged. I did not discover this until I was
ready to rivet on the back spar, which appears to have been done
slightly deeper than the front spar, though both are too deep.
I talked to factory support via e-mail about this and their suggestion
was to use a 0.032 backing strip that I use to sandwich the spar from
behind. This would mean drilling out all the rivets I've put in the
front spar and putting strips in between the rib bays, and also the back
spar.
While I don't really want to start over, I'm only about 40 hours into a
1500 hour project, so that is an option I could tolerate. Do you
guys/gals think the backing strips would work OK? I'm concerned that in
drilling out all the rivets that are already in the spar that I risk
messing up the holes even more, and having to drill them out and use
larger rivets, and need a larger dimple set, etc, and basically end up
with a cobbled-together mess.
Anyway, any opinions appreciated!
Bob Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking. |
Ne...
I would get a new spar. Its your butt up there. It cant cost that
much....Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking. |
Need opinions on fix!
that is a common problem. Follow the factory advice. I had some holes that
were also to large and just used a backing plate as they suggest. No harm
done. Plenty strong enough.
Chalk it up to experience.
John Oliveira
RV9a - N909RV Reserved
Working on fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: First major mistake of my project on HS spar
countersinking. Need opinions on fix!
>
> Hi, folks! I've appreciated all the help people have given on this
> list, and now I've got my first major screw-up to deal with. I'm a new
> RV-9 builder working on my horizontal stabilizer, and made a mistake
> countersinking the spars - I went too deep. I did not read section 5 of
> the manual carefully enough and tried to countersink enough to get the
> dimpled skin material to lie flush on the spar. Bad idea! Now many of
> the holes are slightly enlarged. I did not discover this until I was
> ready to rivet on the back spar, which appears to have been done
> slightly deeper than the front spar, though both are too deep.
>
> I talked to factory support via e-mail about this and their suggestion
> was to use a 0.032 backing strip that I use to sandwich the spar from
> behind. This would mean drilling out all the rivets I've put in the
> front spar and putting strips in between the rib bays, and also the back
> spar.
>
> While I don't really want to start over, I'm only about 40 hours into a
> 1500 hour project, so that is an option I could tolerate. Do you
> guys/gals think the backing strips would work OK? I'm concerned that in
> drilling out all the rivets that are already in the spar that I risk
> messing up the holes even more, and having to drill them out and use
> larger rivets, and need a larger dimple set, etc, and basically end up
> with a cobbled-together mess.
>
> Anyway, any opinions appreciated!
>
>
> Bob Smith
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Moak" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking. |
Need opinions on fix!
Bob
You can find the parts cost at the following links
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/webstore.cgi then click on "Click here
to open and view "The List""
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt
I have not bookmarked it, yet but probably should make it my home page ;).
I have had to use it more than I would like to admit.
HS-901 HORIZ.STAB SKIN $70.79
HS-902 HORIZ.STAB FRONT SPAR $22.42
HS-903 HORIZ.STAB REAR SPAR $22.42
HS-904 HORIZONTAL STAB RIB $10.18
HS-905 HORIZ.STAB NOSE RIB $6.79
HS-906 H STAB REAR SPAR DBLR $9.55
HS-907 H STAB FRNT SPAR DBLR $14.35
HS-910 FIBERGLASS HS TIP $25.00
HS-911-PC HORIZONTAL HINGE BRKT $3.72
HS-912-PC HORIZONTAL HINGE BRKT $3.72
Not a lot of money for the confidence of knowing it is right. Like Neil
said "It is your butt up there".
My understanding is that yes you can double it. You might want to get a
copy of the FAA, AC 43.13-1B "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices -
Aircraft Inspection and Repair". It is a wealth of information, sometimes
too much. It only cost $14.00. I am taking some A&P courses and it seems
to be the primary rules, unless the aircraft manufacture specifies
otherwise.
Ken
90508 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Smith
Subject: RV9-List: First major mistake of my project on HS spar
countersinking. Need opinions on fix!
Hi, folks! I've appreciated all the help people have given on this
list, and now I've got my first major screw-up to deal with. I'm a new
RV-9 builder working on my horizontal stabilizer, and made a mistake
countersinking the spars - I went too deep. I did not read section 5 of
the manual carefully enough and tried to countersink enough to get the
dimpled skin material to lie flush on the spar. Bad idea! Now many of
the holes are slightly enlarged. I did not discover this until I was
ready to rivet on the back spar, which appears to have been done
slightly deeper than the front spar, though both are too deep.
I talked to factory support via e-mail about this and their suggestion
was to use a 0.032 backing strip that I use to sandwich the spar from
behind. This would mean drilling out all the rivets I've put in the
front spar and putting strips in between the rib bays, and also the back
spar.
While I don't really want to start over, I'm only about 40 hours into a
1500 hour project, so that is an option I could tolerate. Do you
guys/gals think the backing strips would work OK? I'm concerned that in
drilling out all the rivets that are already in the spar that I risk
messing up the holes even more, and having to drill them out and use
larger rivets, and need a larger dimple set, etc, and basically end up
with a cobbled-together mess.
Anyway, any opinions appreciated!
Bob Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
countersinking.Need opinions on fix!
| Subject: | Re: First major mistake of my project on HS spar |
countersinking.Need opinions on fix!
| From: | Vicki Schrimmer <abusymom(at)cox.net> |
Do you guys/gals think the backing strips would work OK?
Bob Smith
Bob,
I made the same error you did and ended up buying new horizontal stabilizer
spars. At the time, I didn't know about the backing strip fix.
About a year later, I countersunk a flap spar too deep, but decided to call
the factory for help. They suggested a backing strip, so I tried it and the
flap came out great. If I had known about backing strips when I did my
horizontal stabilizer, I probably would have gone that route instead of
buying new spars.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Moak" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking.Need |
opinions on fix!
Bob,
Not being an engineer I'm not going to play one on line. That said here is
the FAA documentation I was able to locate.
AC 43.13-1B Figure 4-21 shows methods of repairing cracked leading and
trailing edges and rib intersections with a reinforcing plate under a
cracked rib or channel. This is the closest I can find to what you are
looking for. It would appear the FAA says it is an ok method of repair for
a crack (plus stop drilling) which would seem worse to me. They do specify
the material be the same allow and approx 1.5 times the thickness.
Since Van's says it is ok, I figure they have engineers to determine what an
acceptable method is. It would seem the main difference is the possible
thickness of the reinforcing plate.
I would keep a print out of Vans email in my log book. My Tech Advisor
thought I had done something incorrect with my use of blind rivets, but was
satisfied when I showed him it was an option in Van's documentation.
Good luck
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vicki Schrimmer
Subject: Re: RV9-List: First major mistake of my project on HS spar
countersinking.Need opinions on fix!
Do you guys/gals think the backing strips would work OK?
Bob Smith
Bob,
I made the same error you did and ended up buying new horizontal stabilizer
spars. At the time, I didn't know about the backing strip fix.
About a year later, I countersunk a flap spar too deep, but decided to call
the factory for help. They suggested a backing strip, so I tried it and the
flap came out great. If I had known about backing strips when I did my
horizontal stabilizer, I probably would have gone that route instead of
buying new spars.
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim nBrandvold <jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net> |
FYI:
RV-9A N209RV made its first flight on June 4th! Only problem identified
was a slightly heavy left wing. It took 1 bar on the trim indicator to
get it flying hands-off. We now have 1.5 hours on the hobs meter and
can't get the RV grin off our faces.
Jim & Glen Brandvold
N209RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | First major mistake of my project on HS spar countersinking.Need |
opinions on fix!
Thank you all for your help! I think I will do a compromise - I'll drill
out and install backing plates on the front spar that is already riveted in
the skin. And I'll just replace the back spar since it is not yet riveted
in. Of course, if I bugger up the front spar/skin drilling out the rivets I
may have a "do-over" on my hands, but as has been said, this is a big
project. While I'm waiting for parts, I'm moving on to the vertical
stabalizer anyay.
Thanks again,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Piepers <j.piepers(at)prevalent.nl> |
Jim and Glen,
Congratulations on your first flight!!
Mine will be in about 1,5 year (I hope)....
Many happy landings!
John Piepers
RV-7A builder in the Netherlands
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Jim nBrandvold [mailto:jbrandv(at)worldnet.att.net]
Verzonden: zondag 6 juni 2004 17:04
Aan: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV9-List: First Flight
-->
FYI:
RV-9A N209RV made its first flight on June 4th! Only problem identified was
a slightly heavy left wing. It took 1 bar on the trim indicator to get it
flying hands-off. We now have 1.5 hours on the hobs meter and can't get the
RV grin off our faces.
Jim & Glen Brandvold
N209RV
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-Grand Rapids EFIS |
I'll be flying (I hope) a pair of GTS EFIS, http://www.grtavionics.com/ in a
Velo in a couple or three weeks. The second EFIS is redundant and also ties
into the GRT EIS with graphical display. The individuals I talked to before
buying, had good things to say about GRT and many are flying thier older LCD
EIS. If it works, it's quite a bit of bang-for-the-buck compared to
Chelton. More than Dynon but a bunch more features also
(highway-in-the-sky, wind,et al). The programming for tuning the SL-30 from
the EFIS is supposed to be done by the time it flies. When the avionics
shop (a Blue Mountain fan) turned them on, his response was "wow". So,
we'll see---it'd be nice if they fly as well as they look. I'll post after
some hours on them.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Misspelled(at)matronics.com; medication(at)matronics.com; name(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-Grand Rapids EFIS
Any one out there flying with a grand rapids EFIS...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. |
Well in case any one else is faced with the same problem, it is possible to
install the Dynon probe AFTER the skin is on. It just takes a while. It is
just outboard of the VANS pitot position but against the rib in the same
bay.
Thanks for the encourageemnent.
Steve.
#90360
UK
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Website Ticker |
Is any body useing wing tip landing lights? How are they holding up? Neil
Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dwyer" <stdwyer(at)dreamscape.com> |
On sunday June 6, 2004 RV-9A 90219 made it's first flight and returned two more
times to the air the same day after a close inspection totalling 3.5 hours on
the Hobbs. All went well and as expected the plane flies like a dream! Completely
stable with only minor trim and only about 1/2 a bubble in yaw which is
normal for most RV's according to my flight saftey advisor. Cruise came in at
170mph with only 2400 rpm and landing was very comfortable. The RV 9 likes 65
to 70 mph over the numbers touching on the mains letting the nose come down
when it stops flying. I had the chance to fly a Grumman Tiger as part of my transition
training. I'd highly recommend finding one it helped me come to grips
with being to high and to fast on final and getting used to a castering nose
wheel. Anyway my hat's off to Van for designing a truly beautiful airplane!!!
I'll have some photos available shortly.
Steve Dwyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | When to drill/dimple wing rear spar flanges |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
I've done the drilling/deburring for the re-inforcement plates
and the rear spar. The instructions suggest drilling/dimpling
the top flange of the rear spar in the area of the
re-inforcement plates only. If I follow these instructions and
then prime the spar and plates, I will mess up the primer
coating when I finally come around to drilling/dimpling the
rest of the flange holes. Is there any reason why I shouldn't
drill/dimple all the spar flange holes right now before I prime
the spar ?
Thx
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | When to drill/dimple wing rear spar flanges |
No reason at all. I tend to get everything ready to rivet before
priming.
As for drilling out the holes after priming, no big deal. The rivet
will fill the hole when squeezed/driven and there will be very little
chance for moisture to get in there.
Since I hope to put my RV-9 on floats some day, I keep wondering if I
shouldn't spray the rivet heads as the parts go together. Sanity
prevailed and I haven't started down that slippery slop.
If you don't live on a island in the middle of the ocean, all this
corrosion protection is probably overkill.
Just my $.02 worth.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
Flaps (The most tedious part I've built, to date!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV9-List: When to drill/dimple wing rear spar flanges
Folks,
I've done the drilling/deburring for the re-inforcement plates
and the rear spar. The instructions suggest drilling/dimpling
the top flange of the rear spar in the area of the
re-inforcement plates only. If I follow these instructions and
then prime the spar and plates, I will mess up the primer
coating when I finally come around to drilling/dimpling the
rest of the flange holes. Is there any reason why I shouldn't
drill/dimple all the spar flange holes right now before I prime
the spar ?
Thx
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone have (or know of someone that has) a higher time 1st or 2nd run 0-320
for sale in RV land. I'm looking for something that was removed for upgrade
to O-360 or was a normal run-out in good condition. Please respond off list
if possible.
Thanks,
Bryan
bryanflood(at)hotmail.com
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
a trip to NY
http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-9A empty weight |
To add to the data base on empty weights:
RV-9A, O-320, constant speed, VFR instruments, paint and upholstery:1132 #
Don Piermattei
192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A empty weight |
Don,
Could you tell me the weight on each wheel you measured for the w/b?
Thanks,
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: RV-9A empty weight
>
> To add to the data base on empty weights:
> RV-9A, O-320, constant speed, VFR instruments, paint and upholstery:1132 #
>
> Don Piermattei
> 192DP
>
> Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
> 5000 E County Rd 92
> Carr, CO 80612
> 970/568-9047
> Fax 970/568-7279
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-9A empty weight |
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A empty weight
Don,
Could you tell me the weight on each wheel you measured for the w/b?
Dale,
Left wheel= 433.5, right wheel= 430, nose wheel= 268
Don Piermattei
192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | How did you buck this rivet? |
Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib. On
the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
selection of bucking bars.
Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was able
to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold the
bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left an
impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on the
left elevator.
How did you guys do it?
I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is appropriate?
Thanks.
Richard Scott
9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name |
descri...
I used a MK319-BS pop rivet. This rivet will fit the #40 dimple very well.
Just drill the hole to 7/64 and install pop rivet. It gives you a nice flush
fit. If you don't want to see this rivet, then fill with filler during the final
paint process.
Then again you probably already knew that. :)
Bryon Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name |
I used a 3/8" wide bar about 8" long and very carefully bucked it. It went
very well. I hate pop rivets! Also, I used solid rivets on the bottom skin
to spar rivets.
My plans call for AN426AD3-4.5, not 4-4.5
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------
-------
>
> Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib. On
> the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
> particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
> skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
> almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
> selection of bucking bars.
>
> Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
>
> On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was
able
> to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold the
> bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left an
> impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on
the
> left elevator.
>
> How did you guys do it?
>
> I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is
appropriate?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Richard Scott
> 9A Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? |
Richard,
I "manufactured" a bucking bar from a crowbar I bought at Home Depot. I
sawed off the forks on the hooked end of the crowbar, and after
polishing it I used it to get into the tight space to buck that
troublesome rivet that you refer to. I have a picture on my site at:
http://www.my9a.com/el.asp
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#90768 - Fuel Tanks
www.my9a.com
On Jun 23, 2004, at 12:04 PM, Richard Scott wrote:
Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib.
On
the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
selection of bucking bars.
Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was
able
to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold
the
bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left
an
impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on
the
left elevator.
How did you guys do it?
I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is
appropriate?
Thanks.
Richard Scott
9A Emp.
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <associates(at)bellnet.ca> |
| Subject: | The time it takes?? |
I have finished the tail, finishing the wings now, have ordered the fuselage as
a quick build, ordered the engine, pick out the panel.... and now I am wondering
now much more work there is to go, ie finishing kit, instruments... the
question is, is the time lelf, like 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/10 of the work already done,
what?? I am going crazy, work during the day and on the plane every night,
and just when I see the end coming, some sag creeps in and a pile of hours more
sneak add up, sure it's fun, and the hours spent is the part of the 'trip',
but I need to know??, please help me, what's your opinion. Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The time it takes?? |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
06/29/2004 03:47:14 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/29/2004 03:47:14 PM
Most of the 9s that I have heard about take between 1200 and 1400 hours to
complete. The engine can eat up as much as 400 hours by itself.
YMMV
Regards,
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The time it takes?? |
Haven't you ever heard the old line, "The first 90% of the project takes 10%
of the time and the last 10% takes 90% of the time"?
Glenn in Arizona -9A getting ready for the fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: <associates(at)bellnet.ca>
Subject: RV9-List: The time it takes??
>
> I have finished the tail, finishing the wings now, have ordered the
fuselage as a quick build, ordered the engine, pick out the panel.... and
now I am wondering now much more work there is to go, ie finishing kit,
instruments... the question is, is the time lelf, like 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/10
of the work already done, what?? I am going crazy, work during the day and
on the plane every night, and just when I see the end coming, some sag
creeps in and a pile of hours more sneak add up, sure it's fun, and the
hours spent is the part of the 'trip', but I need to know??, please help me,
what's your opinion. Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The time it takes?? |
Hi Bill,
My experiance was that if I started thinking too much about when, it would
ultimately take longer. Wanting to work faster often times created an "OH
SHIT". "Oh Shit", meant, I just screwed something up. Time to back off, drill
out, repair, re-order parts and try to forget that I just cost myself a week or
more of work.
Some of the things I expected to be simple and quick took a lot more time
than expected. Engine cooling baffles are a good example. I once heard the
plans for this little task refferred to as, "The Baffling, Baffle Plans". I spent
at least 2 weeks on them.
Build your plane in way that can enjoy your time spent working. It will get
finished and you will love it.
Dennis Thomas
60 plus hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The time it takes?? |
At that point in my project, I had about 400hrs and 9
months on it. I also received the QB fuse just after
finishing the standard wings myself.
I flew my 9 after 26 months and approx 1200-1300 hrs.
So, I'd say you're about 1/3rd throught it. Just keep
going and you'll finish it someday.
--clay
--- associates(at)bellnet.ca wrote:
>
>
> I have finished the tail, finishing the wings now,
> have ordered the fuselage as a quick build, ordered
> the engine, pick out the panel.... and now I am
> wondering now much more work there is to go, ie
> finishing kit, instruments... the question is, is
> the time lelf, like 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/10 of the work
> already done, what?? I am going crazy, work during
> the day and on the plane every night, and just when
> I see the end coming, some sag creeps in and a pile
> of hours more sneak add up, sure it's fun, and the
> hours spent is the part of the 'trip', but I need to
> know??, please help me, what's your opinion. Bill
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | the time it takes |
| From: | "Jack Eckdahl" <jeckdahl(at)sjrwmd.com> |
I feel your pain. Previous posts give good advice regarding being patient and
tackling each part one at a time and not getting in a hurry. I just screwed up
the canopy side skirts by getting in a hurry and measuring once and cutting
once. I cut off more than I needed to and now have a big gap. Ordered new part
and will wait for a week to do it over. Concerning hours, I have the QB wings
and fuselage. I don't have my builders log in front of me but the emp and
wings totaled about 300 hours. All the fuse interior stuff, seats, brakes, fuel
lines, panel, subpanel, engine baffles, cowling, canopy, etc. current total
at about 600 hours. So I have a total of 900+ hours in the project with the
following left to do: Air box for engine, mate lower cowling to air box, finish
running wires, secure strobe power supply, wire stick grips, install wing tips
and lights, hang wings and empennage, you get the picture. I'm guessing another
150+ hours. I have to admit that I am getting impatient and want to fly.
I am the poster child for Hang in there. Jack #90508 finishing........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: the time it takes |
You guys make me feel like a snail. Mine was standard kit. I'm a first time
builder and no experiance doing this kind of project. I recorded 2394, very
conservative hours and I closed my log after first flight. I did my wheel,
gear leg and intersection fairings after that.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | the time it takes |
Dennis - I just went through 2400 hours and I have still not finished, but
close! And its a QB. Steve
PS the downside is my wife keeps asking what I will do when finished?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: the time it takes
You guys make me feel like a snail. Mine was standard kit. I'm a first time
builder and no experiance doing this kind of project. I recorded 2394, very
conservative hours and I closed my log after first flight. I did my wheel,
gear leg and intersection fairings after that.
Dennis Thomas
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Brown" <philipbrown(at)onetel.net.uk> |
Hi and thank you everyone that contributed their two pen'eth worth towards the
July pfa/Subaru engine discussion....the bottom line from the PFA being :-
1. Don't go ahead unless you are willing to spend thousands on certification(would
an engine which has cost many lives due to icing, has to be tested for cylinder
head cracks every year due to inherent design flaws, runs on soon to be
banned leaded gas and actually burns rich to cool it ever pass modern certification?)
2. Show compliance with JAR modern requirements( does the dinosaur? )
3. Be wary of taking sales talk at face value ( see this months pfa mag page 64"aimed
at the buyer who seeks the ultimate in modern engine technology")
It,s a shame that the pfa isn't looking ahead at the future and strive to at least
look at possible new alternatives. The eggenfelnner Subaru, I believe is one
of these possibilities, don't take my word for it subscribe to the news group
of the 400 or so satisfied customers.....the lycoming was a good engine 50
years ago, there's now a water cooled injected version and its got Subaru written
on it, at this rate we'll be pulling in and pulling out the carb heat for
another 50 years!
Please look and accept what's happening the other side of the pond pfa, its good
for RV,s its good for the environment,its good for the pocket and it will improve
safety.
phil brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: the time it takes |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
I have a slow-build kit and to date I've put in a little over 1,500 hours.
Empennage and wings are done. Currently riveting the fuselage. Hope to be
ready to start working on the canopy by the end of the summer.
My thoughts on building . . .
1. I'm doing this for recreation, so I refuse to rush!
2. There's no reason to build faster than I can afford to pay for the kits!
3. If I'm going to fly it, I want to build it right!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy |
Im getting ready to put my sliding canopy on . I was wondering about how long
that takes. Including all hardware associated with it..Thanks for any
imput...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy |
Hi Neil,
Mine is a tipper and it took about a month.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy |
it took me nearly 50 hours to get the canopy/frame shaped to the point of satifaction.
work slowly, making small bends each time.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Im getting ready to put my sliding canopy on . I was wondering about how long
> that takes. Including all hardware associated with it..Thanks for any
> imput...Neil
>
>
>
>
>
>
it took me nearly 50 hours to get the canopy/frame shaped to the point of satifaction.
work slowly, making small bends each time.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: Neilekins(at)aol.com
Im getting ready to put my sliding canopy on . I was wondering about how long
that takes. Including all hardware associated with it..Thanks for any
imput...Neil
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Brown" <philipbrown(at)onetel.net.uk>
Subject: RV9-List: pfa/subaru
>
After reading all the information on automobile water cooled vs. air
cooled, I am wondering why anyone would consider buying a RV kit designed
by someone who doesn't understand the superiority of an auto engine over an
A/C engine. Somebody should inform Dick V. of his obvious shortcomings!
> Hi and thank you everyone that contributed their two pen'eth worth towards
the July pfa/Subaru engine discussion....the bottom line from the PFA being
:-
> 1. Don't go ahead unless you are willing to spend thousands on
certification(would an engine which has cost many lives due to icing, has to
be tested for cylinder head cracks every year due to inherent design flaws,
runs on soon to be banned leaded gas and actually burns rich to cool it ever
pass modern certification?)
> 2. Show compliance with JAR modern requirements( does the dinosaur? )
> 3. Be wary of taking sales talk at face value ( see this months pfa mag
page 64"aimed at the buyer who seeks the ultimate in modern engine
technology")
> It,s a shame that the pfa isn't looking ahead at the future and strive to
at least look at possible new alternatives. The eggenfelnner Subaru, I
believe is one of these possibilities, don't take my word for it subscribe
to the news group of the 400 or so satisfied customers.....the lycoming was
a good engine 50 years ago, there's now a water cooled injected version and
its got Subaru written on it, at this rate we'll be pulling in and pulling
out the carb heat for another 50 years!
> Please look and accept what's happening the other side of the pond pfa,
its good for RV,s its good for the environment,its good for the pocket and
it will improve safety.
> phil brown
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
Oh please, that is so far out of line I won't begin to explain.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: the time it takes |
empanage and wing kits were standard, done in about 475 hours. Now working
on fuselage also standard kit. About 540 hours total. Bulkheads are all
built and tailcone is riveted.
John Oliveira
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RE: the time it takes
>
>
> I have a slow-build kit and to date I've put in a little over 1,500 hours.
> Empennage and wings are done. Currently riveting the fuselage. Hope to be
> ready to start working on the canopy by the end of the summer.
>
> My thoughts on building . . .
>
> 1. I'm doing this for recreation, so I refuse to rush!
>
> 2. There's no reason to build faster than I can afford to pay for the
kits!
>
> 3. If I'm going to fly it, I want to build it right!
>
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D & E Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Best bucking bar |
description
Can anyone recommend a bucking bar to buck the rivets that attach the innermost
main rib on the HS to the inner mostnose rib? Its a very tight space between
the attach angle piece and the ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best bucking bar |
I found one at a swapmeet that looks like a railroad spike. It is about
1" square and 8" long and tapered at one end. I was able to get into
the tight spaces with it with only a few skinned knuckles! :-)
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Jul 8, 2004, at 11:11 AM, D & E Munz wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend a bucking bar to buck the rivets that attach the
> innermost main rib on the HS to the inner mostnose rib? Its a very
> tight space between the attach angle piece and the ribs.
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Best bucking bar |
I went to the local hardware store. They had square, weldable steel, in
1/8",1/4" and 1/2" bars. I bought some 1/4 and 1/2, cut it up into working size
pieces and found they were very usefull in many places.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Catto Propellers |
I visited Craig Catto's propeller shop yesterday as I am considering one
of his 3-bladed props. Send me an email if you would like me to email
you some 1.5 Mb of pictures of his shop.
Leland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Catto Propellers |
Sure, Id like to see some pictures of his shop...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Bonnington <gbonnington(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale Quickbuild RV-9A Kit |
I have a 9A kit for sale with quickbuild wings and fuselage. The
empennage is essentially
completed, and the wing and fuselage kits haven't been started.
Unfortunately I've lost my
medical, and decided not to finish building this great plane. Please
contact me by email if
you're interested. I'm located in the Portland,OR area.
Thanks,
Jerry Bonnington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale Quickbuild RV-9A Kit |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jerry,
I am in the market for a 9A in just that configuration. What are
you asking for the kit? I am in Florida so getting is a small but ok
problem. Bummer on the medical. We all hope it doesn't catch us to
early in life.
Jim Nelson
writes:
>
>
> I have a 9A kit for sale with quickbuild wings and fuselage. The
> empennage is essentially
> completed, and the wing and fuselage kits haven't been started.
> Unfortunately I've lost my
> medical, and decided not to finish building this great plane.
> Please
> contact me by email if
> you're interested. I'm located in the Portland,OR area.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Bonnington
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale Quickbuild RV-9A Kit |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Jerry,
Give me a call at 727-596-7553 to tell me how much you have done
on the tail feathers. I'll be home most of the day tomorrow. Your 8 am
will be my noon so don't worry about calling to early.
Jim
writes:
>
>
> I have a 9A kit for sale with quickbuild wings and fuselage. The
> empennage is essentially
> completed, and the wing and fuselage kits haven't been started.
> Unfortunately I've lost my
> medical, and decided not to finish building this great plane.
> Please
> contact me by email if
> you're interested. I'm located in the Portland,OR area.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Bonnington
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Am I the only one who... |
is building an RV without a pneumatic rivet squeezer? Just curious as
I'm about to start riveting up my flaps by hand.
Do you think it is possible for Van's to design in more rivets than he
did? I'm starting to think that 1/2 the RV empty weight is rivets.
Ok, enough complaining, time to get back in the basement.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SkyKing" <skyking135(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Am I the only one who... |
I bought a used pneumatic squeezer off eBay for $150. I've never regretted
it one minute. It'll produce superior and consistent results. Well worth
the money in my opinion.
David #90951
Wings on order
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Am I the only one who...
>
> is building an RV without a pneumatic rivet squeezer? Just curious as
> I'm about to start riveting up my flaps by hand.
>
> Do you think it is possible for Van's to design in more rivets than he
> did? I'm starting to think that 1/2 the RV empty weight is rivets.
>
> Ok, enough complaining, time to get back in the basement.
>
> Bill R.
> RV-9
> SN: 90737
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Am I the only one who... |
Don't have one, and don't want one. Only one more skin to go.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Am I the only one who...
>
> is building an RV without a pneumatic rivet squeezer? Just curious as
> I'm about to start riveting up my flaps by hand.
>
> Do you think it is possible for Van's to design in more rivets than he
> did? I'm starting to think that 1/2 the RV empty weight is rivets.
>
> Ok, enough complaining, time to get back in the basement.
>
> Bill R.
> RV-9
> SN: 90737
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Am I the only one who... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I splashed out and I'm glad I did. However, you can mess up
with a pneumatic squeezer just as easily as you can with a hand
one or the rivet gun - and you can mess up a lot more quickly.
The consistency of the results is very satisfying though.
g
>
>
> Don't have one, and don't want one. Only one more skin to go.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Am I the only one who...
>
>
> >
> > is building an RV without a pneumatic rivet squeezer? Just curious as
> > I'm about to start riveting up my flaps by hand.
> >
> > Do you think it is possible for Van's to design in more rivets than he
> > did? I'm starting to think that 1/2 the RV empty weight is rivets.
> >
> > Ok, enough complaining, time to get back in the basement.
> >
> > Bill R.
> > RV-9
> > SN: 90737
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Am I the only one who... |
Bill,
I have an old, much used one I would sell cheap.
Dennis Thomas
Done building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler selection? |
Does anyone remember a couple years ago an Rv-8 that had a bad in flight
fire, apparently because of an oil leak, through an oil cooler? I had heard
that it was an automotive type cooler, but don't really know the details
specifically, and of course I am about to buy an oil cooler... Does anyone
have any info on this event or could point to a specific oil cooler that was
involved in this incident?
Bryan
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access helps fight spam and pop-ups now 2 months
FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Am I the only one who... |
Bill, No you're not alone. I'm finishing up the fuselage (all slow build)
and haven't used one. I'm sure they are nice, but my first complete plane
build I wanted it hand crafted. It is probably silly, I know, but it is the
reason I didn't do a quick build either. I wanted to be able to say I built
the whole thing myself. We already get enough grief from the older guys who
say we are only "assembliers" not "builders" because of the matched hole cnc
process.
Hate to think what these quys are saying about quick build builders.
Anyway, I know all of that is Bull, get in the air faster get a quick build
and all that, but I'm happy doing it the slow build way and I will know my
airplane inside out.
I could tell ya a story about a quick build quy I ran into at Van's who
couldn't even reccognize a part I was getting. He couldn't remember putting
it together in his plane. It was because he was building a quick build and
didn't put it together. No biggy though! Same old thing with tail and nose
gear pilots, uh?
I'm on a super tight budget also, though!
Terry Hobert EAA 326 - RV9A fuselage
>From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV9-List: Am I the only one who...
>Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2004 17:42:28 -0400
>
>
>is building an RV without a pneumatic rivet squeezer? Just curious as
>I'm about to start riveting up my flaps by hand.
>
>Do you think it is possible for Van's to design in more rivets than he
>did? I'm starting to think that 1/2 the RV empty weight is rivets.
>
>Ok, enough complaining, time to get back in the basement.
>
>Bill R.
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>
>
Get tips for maintaining your PC, notebook accessories and reviews in
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler selection? |
The cooler in question was a Setrab cooler. My suggestion is to use one
of the aviation coolers; Stewart-Warner, Niagra, Positech,,,,,
Gary
Bryan Flood wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone remember a couple years ago an Rv-8 that had a bad in flight
> fire, apparently because of an oil leak, through an oil cooler? I had heard
> that it was an automotive type cooler, but don't really know the details
> specifically, and of course I am about to buy an oil cooler... Does anyone
> have any info on this event or could point to a specific oil cooler that was
> involved in this incident?
>
> Bryan
>
> MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access helps fight spam and pop-ups now 2 months
> FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Painting the wheel spats |
I squirted some high build primer on the wheel spats/pants and it behaved
completely differently from the cowls. Prior to painting I had rubbed down
lightly to provide a key and cleaned with panel wipe (I think this is MEK in
American). This worked well for the cowls and has shown up all the remaining
pinholes. On the spats however it has reacted oddly. Are they a polyester
resin rather than epoxy? Could it be they have a different release agent
that is still there? If so how do you get this off?
The good news it sanded off again in no time, but I am no further along!
Advice on how to deal with them would be very welcome!
Steve.
#90360
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Want to buy Klixon Circuit Breakers |
If anyone has some Klixon 7277-2 CB's for sale, I'm looking for several.
Contact off list for a list of what I need.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
, "RV10 Group"
| Subject: | GPS survey-I need your input |
RV builders and owners I need your input for a GPS survey.
I would like to get a understanding of the choice of GPS RV builder and owners
are using or planning on using in their RV. If you can take a moment and email
the following information I will collect all the information and post the results.
To limit the number of emails on the newsgroups, please send the email
to me merems(at)cox.net.
Brand?
Model?
Portable/fixed? (If you have a portable unit but are planning or using a fixed
panel mount answer: fixed)
Purchased new or used?
Any information will be very helpful.
Sincerely,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the wheel spats |
Steve, a good procedure for preparing the fiberglass parts is to wash
them with soap and water, water rinse, wash with solvent, sand with
coarse paper, then squeegee on an epoxy/glassbead slurry, and squeegee
off as much of the slurry as possible. (A flexible plastic squeegee
works best.) Then sand with a less coarse paper and repeat the
epoxy/glassbead treatment. I prefer to do the first sanding using 120
grit wet/dry paper as a wet sand to avoid getting toxic dust in the air.
Superfil cures quickly and sands easily, but West Systems epoxy also
works well when mixed with glass beads (do this outside while wearing a
mask) to a catsup-like consistency. Epoxy will stick to polyester but
not conversely. I am told that high-build primer is the best for filling
any remaining pinholes.
Are you going to be flying this year? I still hope to.
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale |
I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I
bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit on the
rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell this for
the best offer.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and Mounting Brackets |
Hello Builders,
We have been off of this list for some time, but wanted to let you know we are
still making and selling parts for your aircraft. We have been in the process
of moving our operation from Colorado to Idaho for the past several months. With
luck, we should be settled into our new location in Idaho by the end of the
first week of August.
Meanwhile, our Heated Pitot Tube Mounting Bracket Kits are still very popular and
we been keeping very busy producing them. We do want to let everyone know that
we will need to increase our prices slightly, effective the 1st of August.
This increse is due to our raw material costs going up and also shipping charges
that have been going up over the past two years. We have tried to keep from
raising prices as long as we can, but now need to do so. Sorry.
GOOD NEWS is that we are getting very close to having our NEWEST Gretz Aero designed
product available! It is the GA-1000. This is a heated pitot tube that is
a totaly new design. It is completely different than any pitot before.
The Gretz Aero heated pitot tube is called the GA-1000 and will look nearly
like the PH502-12CR pitot tube except the GA-1000 will be black in color, and it
will be lighter in weight than any other heated pitot tube on the market. The
GA-1000 will be what we are calling a "smart" pitot tube. It
will give the pilot feedback as to its operation on the panel. It will also
be very energy conserative and be excellent installed in an aircraft with a
small altanator in the electrical system. The only bad part is, it is not
available yet. We plan on having it available very soon, if production does
not throw us a problem. It has taken us MUCH MUCH longer to get this project
done than we ever dreamed it would. The TARGET price on the GA-1000 is +/- $325
depending upon final production costs. This price will include shipping charges
in the US.
There are a number of builders that are purchasing our mounting bracket kit,
which was designed for the PH502-12CR pitot, (which has been available for
years), this same bracket kit will also fit the new GA-1000. Once the mounting
bracket is installed in your aircraft, the GA-1000 pitot tube can be installed
at a later date when it is available. Other pitot tubes that are now available,
will also fit into the same mounting bracket as well as the GA-1000.
We will make as big a splash as we can on our website, http://www.gretzaero.com , and this List, when the new Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated pitot tube product is available. There will be a page on the Gretz Aero website that will cover this product in great detail.
I hope this information helps you.
Your can place orders with Gretz Aero on the gretzaero.com website, print out the
printable order form on the order page of the website and mail, or call the
phone numbers below.
If you want to reply to us about this message posting, please do so directly to
my e-mail address below and not on the LIST.
Good Building to you!
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
15405 Bates Creek Rd.
Oreana, ID 83650
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
http://www.gretzaero.com
720-308-0010
208-834-2312
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the wheel spats |
Leland, is that Pleasanton Texas ? I am in corpus and working on qbwings
would like to see your project sometime.
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Painting the wheel spats
>
> Steve, a good procedure for preparing the fiberglass parts is to wash
> them with soap and water, water rinse, wash with solvent, sand with
> coarse paper, then squeegee on an epoxy/glassbead slurry, and squeegee
> off as much of the slurry as possible. (A flexible plastic squeegee
> works best.) Then sand with a less coarse paper and repeat the
> epoxy/glassbead treatment. I prefer to do the first sanding using 120
> grit wet/dry paper as a wet sand to avoid getting toxic dust in the air.
> Superfil cures quickly and sands easily, but West Systems epoxy also
> works well when mixed with glass beads (do this outside while wearing a
> mask) to a catsup-like consistency. Epoxy will stick to polyester but
> not conversely. I am told that high-build primer is the best for filling
> any remaining pinholes.
>
> Are you going to be flying this year? I still hope to.
> Leland in Pleasanton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "royandjilly" <royandjilly(at)btinternet.com> |
Steve,
I washed mine with a thinners- soaked rag before I managed to get rid of the silicone-like
release agent on the wheel spats, I think you're right, they are
not epoxy-based.
Roy. G-RUVY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Priming Spats |
Hi Guys,
I think you should check with the factory before you assume the wheel
fairings are not epoxy. I think that they are and polyester resin would not be
a good
thing for them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Murray <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 07/16/04 |
To Paul:
90430 - went with Garmin 530. Cannot be beat for
IFR work and situational awareness!!
Jim Murray
--- RV9-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV9-List Digest can be also be
> found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file
> includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and
> features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file
> includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed
> with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-07-16.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-07-16.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> RV9-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri
> 07/16/04: 7
>
>
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:51 AM - GPS survey-I need your input
> (Merems)
> 2. 07:57 AM - Re: Painting the wheel spats
> (Leland)
> 3. 07:58 AM - SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
> (Albert Gardner)
> 4. 02:42 PM - Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and
> Mounting Brackets (Warren Gretz)
> 5. 02:46 PM - Re: Painting the wheel spats
> (sportpilot)
> 6. 03:26 PM - Priming Spats (royandjilly)
> 7. 05:29 PM - Re: Priming Spats
> (DThomas773(at)aol.com)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
> ,
> ,
> , "RV10 Group"
>
> Subject: RV9-List: GPS survey-I need your input
>
>
>
> RV builders and owners I need your input for a GPS
> survey.
>
> I would like to get a understanding of the choice of
> GPS RV builder and owners
> are using or planning on using in their RV. If you
> can take a moment and email
> the following information I will collect all the
> information and post the results.
> To limit the number of emails on the newsgroups,
> please send the email
> to me merems(at)cox.net.
>
> Brand?
> Model?
> Portable/fixed? (If you have a portable unit but are
> planning or using a fixed
> panel mount answer: fixed)
> Purchased new or used?
>
> Any information will be very helpful.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Painting the wheel spats
>
>
>
> Steve, a good procedure for preparing the fiberglass
> parts is to wash
> them with soap and water, water rinse, wash with
> solvent, sand with
> coarse paper, then squeegee on an epoxy/glassbead
> slurry, and squeegee
> off as much of the slurry as possible. (A flexible
> plastic squeegee
> works best.) Then sand with a less coarse paper and
> repeat the
> epoxy/glassbead treatment. I prefer to do the first
> sanding using 120
> grit wet/dry paper as a wet sand to avoid getting
> toxic dust in the air.
> Superfil cures quickly and sands easily, but West
> Systems epoxy also
> works well when mixed with glass beads (do this
> outside while wearing a
> mask) to a catsup-like consistency. Epoxy will
> stick to polyester but
> not conversely. I am told that high-build primer is
> the best for filling
> any remaining pinholes.
>
> Are you going to be flying this year? I still hope
> to.
> Leland in Pleasanton
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: RV9-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
>
>
> I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil
> cooler 10610A that I
> bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used
> because it wouldn't fit on the
> rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to
> do. I'll sell this for
> the best offer.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
> Subject: RV9-List: Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and
> Mounting Brackets
>
>
>
> Hello Builders,
> We have been off of this list for some time, but
> wanted to let you know we are
> still making and selling parts for your aircraft. We
> have been in the process
> of moving our operation from Colorado to Idaho for
> the past several months. With
> luck, we should be settled into our new location in
> Idaho by the end of the
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D, C, Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the wheel spats |
Hi, Steve
According to the manual, the spats are epoxy. Van's suggests sanding with
400, then 600 grit
"wet or dry " paper. I would add to that - use warm water with a spot of
dish washing detergent (not too much, otherwise the paper won't sand). This
serves to lubricate the paper, and also clean away the mold release wax. If
you sand through your paint, then wash that area off with soapy water, and
rinse well with clean. DO NOT use solvents and the likes. They just spread
the wax around, if there is any left. Then use an epoxy primer. You should
be able to use the high solids primer after that, or simply use epoxy putty
to fill pinholes. I wish you well - from a former 'panel-beater'.
Cliff
9A #90667 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: Painting the wheel spats
>
> I squirted some high build primer on the wheel spats/pants and it behaved
> completely differently from the cowls. Prior to painting I had rubbed down
> lightly to provide a key and cleaned with panel wipe (I think this is MEK
in
> American). This worked well for the cowls and has shown up all the
remaining
> pinholes. On the spats however it has reacted oddly. Are they a polyester
> resin rather than epoxy? Could it be they have a different release agent
> that is still there? If so how do you get this off?
> The good news it sanded off again in no time, but I am no further along!
>
> Advice on how to deal with them would be very welcome!
>
> Steve.
>
> #90360
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flying to Oshkosh and thanks to Galley and crew |
Scott,
I beg to differ. EAA WAS about experimental aircraft. EAA is now about
sport aviation, as you may notice when you note the various divisions, one
for aerobatics, one for antiques and classics, etc. and remember the name
of EAA's magazine.
The roster of our EAA chapter in Mulino, Oregon, shows about 56 members,
with about 27 projects or completed homebuilts, and an equal number of
factory built planes. Those who choose to fly factory built planes are
just as active and contribute just as much as the homebuilders--more,
perhaps, as several of the factory built planes are 4 place planes and flew
the majority of young eagles last year.
When the Bonanza pilots want to arrive at Oshkosh together, I say, more
power to them, it just makes the party bigger!
Richard Scott
1941 Interstate Cadet
RV-9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV 9A front wheel |
Is there a trick to putting together the front wheel with out pinching the
tube...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV 9A front wheel |
Put the tube in the tire, take the valve core out, put some air in and
let it deflate, put the wheel halves together.
Roger Ping
A&P
RV-9 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Re:RV 9A front wheel
Is there a trick to putting together the front wheel with out pinching
the
tube...
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV 9A front wheel |
I would add that a dentist's mirror works good for visually checking the
condition of the tube before cranking down on the bolts.
Mike Duiven
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Re:RV 9A front wheel
>
> Put the tube in the tire, take the valve core out, put some air in and
> let it deflate, put the wheel halves together.
>
> Roger Ping
> A&P
> RV-9 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Neilekins(at)aol.com
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Re:RV 9A front wheel
>
>
> Is there a trick to putting together the front wheel with out pinching
> the
> tube...
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV 9A front wheel |
Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
> Is there a trick to putting together the front wheel with out pinching the
> tube...
I read about this trick after my wheels were assembled, so I
can't tell you how well it works - take some thin cardboard
or stiff paper and cut a long strip. Put it around the wheel
hub and tape the ends together. Now when you slide the halves
together, the cardboard should act as a barrier between the
tube and the wheel, preventing it from being pinched.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV 9A front wheel |
Plenty of corn starch powder or talcom powder on the tube and on the wheel
inner surface works well with a half inflated tire the tube will tend to
slip up over the wheel seam rather then sticking and getting caught and
pinched but go slow it can be done. the mains are much easier. but use the
powder in them also for ease of assembly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Re:RV 9A front wheel
Is there a trick to putting together the front wheel with out pinching the
tube...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> Oops! |
| Subject: | Re: Was: flying to Oshkosh and thanks to Galley and crew Now: |
Oops!
>Oops!
>Sent my previous message to the wrong list!
>
>Richard Scott
>1941 Interstate Cadet
>RV-9A Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Counter Balance Weight |
Listers
Last year some time their was a thread about additional elevator counter balance
weight being required to compensate for the trim servo and paint. I seem to
recall it emanated from a Vans. Can anyone throw any light on this subject as
I'm about to close up the tip prior to paint.
Thanks Neil Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Counter Balance Weight |
Yes neil leave as much weight on as you can and still have the required clearence
for the stab-elev.after paint and final assemble. drill exposed weight with
1/2 drill bit to final balance several holes.each half seperate not bolted
together that way each half is balenced .then bolt together and check. this is
the way i did mine and am very pleased with the balence no guesing this way.
Bob Watson
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Henderson <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Counter Balance Weight
Listers
Last year some time their was a thread about additional elevator counter balance
weight being required to compensate for the trim servo and paint. I seem to
recall it emanated from a Vans. Can anyone throw any light on this subject as
I'm about to close up the tip prior to paint.
Thanks Neil Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Gresli" <FlyRV9A(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 1975 Grumman AA-5 currently listed on Aircraft Shopper Online |
To the RV-9 List:
I thought you would be interested my 1975 Grumman AA-5 currently listed on Aircraft
Shopper Online.
To see the details, click on: http://www.aso.com/aircraft/83644/
Please pass on the word if you know of anybody that may be interested. Once my
old plane finds a new home, I can get started on my own RV-9A.
Take care and safe flying,
Bob Gresli
1975 Grumman-American AA-5 Traveler N1346R
Hillsboro OR (HIO)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
I tried fitting the reccomended Gates 7350 belt to the starter
ring/altenator today (Standatd setup). The bump on the altenator (I think it
houses the electronics) looses me about 1/3rd of the movement and since I do
not want to rotate the engine (its inhibited) I could not get it on. In view
of the loss of travel I worry the belt would be too tight anyway. Is this
problem familiar to anyone else. Those of you flying. What was your
resolution?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
UK
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <jleclercq(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | RV-9 Empanage Kit For Sale |
RV-9 Empanage Kit For Sale...just started horizontal stab match
drilling, not dimpled or riveted yet. Nothing else has been touched.
Includes: Complete Kit plus Elec trim option. In Original Boxes.
$1200
Also available will be the complete set of tools for RV building.
Contact off-list for pics and list.
jleclercq(at)charter.net
Can deliver to Oshkosh E.A.A.
Selling due to health reasons.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/24/04 |
Steve, Van's provided one of the 60 amp alternators for my O320D1A. I
had to grind off portions of the alternator and mount to get it to fit.
Neither of the recommended Gates belts fit. I bought several belt sizes
from the parts store and returned the ones that did not fit. In the end,
I wound up with a Gates 7355, but my engine model is different from
yours. The Gates website lists dealer locations, at least here in the
states.
By the way, Van's switched from the 35 amp alternators because they were
not reliable.
Leland in Pleasanton
Installing the Gretz mount
(The Dynon D10A should ship this week)
>I tried fitting the recommended Gates 7350 belt to the starter
>ring/altenator today (Standatd setup). The bump on the altenator (I think it
>houses the electronics) looses me about 1/3rd of the movement and since I do
>not want to rotate the engine (its inhibited) I could not get it on. In view
>of the loss of travel I worry the belt would be too tight anyway. Is this
>problem familiar to anyone else. Those of you flying. What was your
>resolution?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>#90360
>UK
>
>---
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Tinstone bucking bars |
My neighbor is a maintenance director for one of the major airlines and
stopped by today to check out my progress. After spending an hour or
two looking things over and being very impressed by the kit, my
workmanship, and the quality of the drawings and instructions he walked
me back over to his garage and started handing me tools to use until I
finished the project. (Union shops don't let non-union managers touch
tools, even if they started out wrenching.)
He handed me two pieces of tungsten, one was a 1/2 inch thick, three
inches long and an inch wide. The other started out the same size but
had and corner cut off so the tip would fit into a tight spot. Either
one of those little pieces of metal is heavier than one of the standard
"L" shaped, cast-iron bucking bars we all use. Because of the density
of the metal, it works much better, even though it is smaller.
If you can locate some tungsten, get it. (It is about as easy as
aluminum to cut, drill, etc.) That small chunk of metal is so much
easier to use and fits into some of the tighter spaces, don't let the
small size fool you. (Can you tell I'm sold on this stuff?)
Happy riveting.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
Control rods
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | GPS Survey results |
Thank you all for emailing me the GPS brand and model you are using or plan on using in your RV. You can view the results at www.experimentalaero.com and select the GPS Survey on the left side of the home page.
Once again, thank you for the information.
Sincerely,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable routing through 706 bulkhead |
I can't see on any of the plans where the manual trim cable passes through
the 706 bulkhead (Rear baggage bulkhead). All of the other bulkheads have
two holes on either side of the center line to allow pass-throughs. Doesn't
seem logical to run it through the square hole the push tube goes through.
I assume people are just drilling the two holes on either side of the
push-tube hole? Does the vertical support rib just behind the bulkhead
cause any problems?
Other option would be to make an oval shaped hole on the two center baggage
compartment ribs and jog over to the bays on either side and drill holes in
the 706 bulkhead there. There wouldn't be any interference with anything
that I can see... and might be a better route to go.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Matthew
RV-9A Fuselage
http://www.n523rv.com
#90569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Hagerty" <chagerty(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Empanage Kit For Sale |
John
I can't seem to get you off line. If you would email me I would appreciate
it.
chagerty(at)worldnet.att.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <jleclercq(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV-9 Empanage Kit For Sale
>
> RV-9 Empanage Kit For Sale...just started horizontal stab match
> drilling, not dimpled or riveted yet. Nothing else has been touched.
> Includes: Complete Kit plus Elec trim option. In Original Boxes.
> $1200
>
> Also available will be the complete set of tools for RV building.
> Contact off-list for pics and list.
>
> jleclercq(at)charter.net
>
> Can deliver to Oshkosh E.A.A.
>
> Selling due to health reasons.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable routing through 706 bulkhead |
I have a -7 but basically the same fuse. I routed the cable through one of the
holes you mentioned. The other hole only needs 2 wires for the tail light and
pitot tube or whatever. It all fits. If you have to rout a wire through the
hole along with the control cable go ahead. Make sure to put in a grommet.
Or enlarge one hole or both.
Tad
"Matthew Brandes" wrote:
>
>I can't see on any of the plans where the manual trim cable passes through
>the 706 bulkhead (Rear baggage bulkhead). All of the other bulkheads have
>two holes on either side of the center line to allow pass-throughs. Doesn't
>seem logical to run it through the square hole the push tube goes through.
>
>I assume people are just drilling the two holes on either side of the
>push-tube hole? Does the vertical support rib just behind the bulkhead
>cause any problems?
>
>Other option would be to make an oval shaped hole on the two center baggage
>compartment ribs and jog over to the bays on either side and drill holes in
>the 706 bulkhead there. There wouldn't be any interference with anything
>that I can see... and might be a better route to go.
>
>Thoughts? Ideas?
>
>Matthew
>RV-9A Fuselage
>http://www.n523rv.com
>#90569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
07/26/2004 06:28:24 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/26/2004 06:28:24 PM
Does anyone know of a vendor of an accordion style hanger door? I can not
seem to find one on an search.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <jleclercq(at)charter.net> |
"rv9-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold |
I am very sorry but the RV-9 Empenage Kit is Sold and most likely the
tools as well. I am sorry if I have not gotten to all the responses to
my post but I did not expect to recieve so many replies. This news group
is really a good one for everyone. Thanks to all for the help.
Sincerely, John L.
Another physically aging person...sadly parting from 90599
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold |
I am kinda new to posting , although I have been reading for a while, I
have a completed RV9 emp and found a
deal on a quick build kit "wings & fuse" with emp so I have either a
completed or brand new emp kit for sale, I was going to use the completed
one (still want to) but I may sell it instead being since I have learned a
few more
things since starting on it.. but I have the brand new emp kit for sale
(or either one) unopened rivet packages
all parts skins ect.. the box got a little wet while I was bringing the
total kit home from Forida but I can put
everything in a new cardboard box if someone needs the kit.. The kit is
complete.. and either way I need to
keep saving for the finnish kit money.. I have an 0320 in the bedroom
(didn't want to leave it in the garage) :)
so I need to get the finnish kit in a few months and it looked like lots
of people are looking for emp kits..
Let me know..
Danny
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <jleclercq(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV9-List: RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold
>
> I am very sorry but the RV-9 Empenage Kit is Sold and most likely the
> tools as well. I am sorry if I have not gotten to all the responses to
> my post but I did not expect to recieve so many replies. This news group
> is really a good one for everyone. Thanks to all for the help.
>
> Sincerely, John L.
>
> Another physically aging person...sadly parting from 90599
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D & E Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | wheel type trim control |
I was toying with the idea of installing a wheel type trim control (Cessna,Piper)
on my 9 instead of the Vernier control shown on the plans. Has anyone done
this, if so are there any written plans ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Has any one had any problems with the hinge that connects the engine cowling
to the firewall breaking on an RV 9 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
> Has any one had any problems with the hinge that connects the engine
cowling
> to the firewall breaking on an RV 9 ?
Haven't heard about the 9, but a few of my RV6 friends suggested I use the
extruded hinge on the bottom part of the firewall, you know the two strips
on each side of the exhaust pipes. They suggested this because theirs had
broken and had to be replaced.
Hope that helps,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Yes, it does thanks. I have heard that a couple of people were having
problems. They did a couple of modifications to stop that.. Thanks Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual trim cable routing through 706 bulkhead |
1.7 SUBJ_HAS_SPACES Subject contains lots of white space
Matthew, I did the same as Sargent. I drilled out a hole beside the
Square opening and put in a grommet large enough for the Trim Cable and
tail light wire. My strobe power supply and ELT are mounted under and on
the baggage floor and so their wires penetrate the baggage bulkhead
separately.
Leland
RV9A Quickbuild
Mounting Dynon pitot probe in Gretz mount
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D, C, Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | wing walk doubler |
Van's instructions say to position the W927 under the 902 skin, then to drill the
8th, 15th and 22nd fhole rom the forward edge. This divides the ribs into
quarters.
Do I predrill all the holes in the doubler to match the skin before match-drilling
to the ribs? Am I missing something here? It is hard to match the skin and
doubler to the ribs if you can't see the hole in the rib.
Cliff
9A
cliffjones(at)look.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | wing walk doubler |
You are correct drill through the skin. It's much easier thay way.
Tad RV7A
"D, C, Jones" wrote:
>
>Van's instructions say to position the W927 under the 902 skin, then to drill
the 8th, 15th and 22nd fhole rom the forward edge. This divides the ribs into
quarters.
>
>Do I predrill all the holes in the doubler to match the skin before match-drilling
to the ribs? Am I missing something here? It is hard to match the skin and
doubler to the ribs if you can't see the hole in the rib.
>
>Cliff
>9A
>cliffjones(at)look.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk doubler |
Cliff,
I driled all of the holes out using a 3/32" bit, which is the size of the
pre-punched holes. Then match drill to #40 with the top skin on.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk doubler |
Cliff,
You need to match-drill these initial holes in the wing walk doubler
off wing. I put mine on my workbench, placed the 902 skin over top,
aligned it according to the instructions, and then drilled and clecoed
directly into the wood. Once you've got these holes drilled it is easy
to do the rest on the wing.
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Jul 28, 2004, at 12:18 PM, D, C, Jones wrote:
Van's instructions say to position the W927 under the 902 skin, then to
drill the 8th, 15th and 22nd fhole rom the forward edge. This divides
the ribs into quarters.
Do I predrill all the holes in the doubler to match the skin before
match-drilling to the ribs? Am I missing something here? It is hard
to match the skin and doubler to the ribs if you can't see the hole in
the rib.
Cliff
9A
cliffjones(at)look.ca
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
_-
========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D, C, Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
Thanks to all for the quick responses on the wing walk doubler question. I did
have the 3/32" drill ready ! The 902 and doubler fit beautifully.
Next question: a nasty pucker on the forward edge of W903. I have the spar absolutely
straight. Do I match-drill starting on the in-board end of the 903,
working my way to the out-board end, with only the ribs holding the skin? Any
suggestions, please.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | Aluminum Vents Sale |
I am overstocked with Black Anodized Aluminum Vents, so for the month of
August, I will offer these at $199.00 with free shipping. Regular Price
is $235.00 with a $10.00 shipping charge.
These vents are the same size as Van's plastic vents including the
mounting holes. Our black anodized vents are unique in that we made the
eyeball and mechanism of out aluminum, but the flanges are plastic so
that the corners can be rounded off, just like Van's, and not expose the
clear aluminum.
You can see the vents here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents_files/IM001220.JPG
You can order the vents here:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents.htm
This special is only available during this month, or until I run out of
vents.
Regards,
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
List members,
I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding
aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and
this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the
group.
I typically leave my business away from the list, but I thought some
should benefit from my error.
Again, my apologies.
Regards,
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | "Advertising" on the Lists... |
>I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding
>aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and
>this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the
>group.
>
>Fabian
Listers,
I encourage small business owners such as Fabian to promote their products
on the Lists. I do ask, however, that the flavor of the messages not be in
the traditional form of spam messages, but more in the context of a
personal message. Obviously, moderation is in order as well. The Lists
are a forum for all types of dialog that involve the particular List in
question. If all of the Listers on a given List were in one big room
meeting and communicating in the manner that we do on the Lists, then
people such as Fabian and myself, for that matter, would obviously be
promoting our products to anyone that would listen. In fact, we would
likely be invited to give a presentation on it to the group. The List
isn't about commercialism, but it is about sharing knowledge. This extends
to everyone, including those that provide products to the community.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Re: "Advertising" on the Lists... |
I personally don't mind receiving emails on the list about products that help make
my project more successful or keep my costs down.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle
To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com ; rv4-list(at)matronics.com ; rv7-list(at)matronics.com
; rv8-list(at)matronics.com ; rv9-list(at)matronics.com ; europa-list(at)matronics.com
; glasair-list(at)matronics.com ; lancair-list(at)matronics.com ; rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 12:37 PM
Subject: RV9-List: "Advertising" on the Lists...
>I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding
>aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and
>this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the
>group.
>
>Fabian
Listers,
I encourage small business owners such as Fabian to promote their products
on the Lists. I do ask, however, that the flavor of the messages not be in
the traditional form of spam messages, but more in the context of a
personal message. Obviously, moderation is in order as well. The Lists
are a forum for all types of dialog that involve the particular List in
question. If all of the Listers on a given List were in one big room
meeting and communicating in the manner that we do on the Lists, then
people such as Fabian and myself, for that matter, would obviously be
promoting our products to anyone that would listen. In fact, we would
likely be invited to give a presentation on it to the group. The List
isn't about commercialism, but it is about sharing knowledge. This extends
to everyone, including those that provide products to the community.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
Fabian
No reason to apoligize.
IMHO, that's what this list is about.
Sharing ideas, helping others solve problems and being informed of products that
may be useful.
If I can benefit from a product while helping a fellow builder in his company-well,
that's a win-win as far is I'm concerned.
Peter
RV9A
Waiting for wings
>
> List members,
>
> I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting
> regarding aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to
> the list and this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in
> advance to the group.
>
> I typically leave my business away from the list, but I thought some
> should benefit from my error.
>
> Again, my apologies.
>
> Regards,
>
> Fabian
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
I agree with Peter.. and having done some business with Fabian in the recent
past I can highly recommend him both for his parts and his
professionalism,, he was more then helpful to me regarding our panel design.
Thanks Fabian please continue offering suggestions and items to us out here
as they come up. We appreciate your help.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
plaurence@the-beach.net
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Aluminum Vents Sale Posting
Fabian
No reason to apoligize.
IMHO, that's what this list is about.
Sharing ideas, helping others solve problems and being informed of products
that
may be useful.
If I can benefit from a product while helping a fellow builder in his
company-well,
that's a win-win as far is I'm concerned.
Peter
RV9A
Waiting for wings
>
> List members,
>
> I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting
> regarding aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to
> the list and this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in
> advance to the group.
>
> I typically leave my business away from the list, but I thought some
> should benefit from my error.
>
> Again, my apologies.
>
> Regards,
>
> Fabian
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, , ,
,
| Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] Aluminum Vents Sale Posting |
Thank you everyone for your kind words.
The list and yahoo group exists for one reason and one reason only... to
share information about building airplanes. Being a builder myself, I
am sensitive to that. Heck, I am the first one to admit that if I had
to open my e-mail just to sort out what is building related and what is
not, I would unsubscribe immediately. Look at the Sport Aviation
magazine these days. Can anyone guess what the building articles vs
advertisement ratio is? I bet you it is 2 to 1 in favor of advertising.
As such, after receiving an e-mail message directly from an upset list
member, I thought the least I could do was to apologize. I will confess
that I was bothered by the excessive number of four letter words used in
his e-mail, not to mention the detailed instructions as to what to do
with my vents, which involved using parts of my body that never intended
to suffer that much.
I try very hard not to post silly questions to the list, or answer other
member's questions, just so that I can close the e-mail with my company
name below it. Nor do I regularly advertise that I have something in
stock on sale just to increase sales for that month. I had hope that
before anyone complained about me, he or she would realize that the
person who posted the message doesn't do it on a regular basis. I guess
that doesn't always work with hotheads.
I'll make this e-mail short and sweet and say that, in the future, I
will let my website, and previously satisfied customers, do the
advertisement for me.
Hope to meet you all in the near future.
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLOMHEIM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube swap? |
message(at)matronics.com, body(at)matronics.com, is(at)matronics.com,
uppercase(at)matronics.com
I have a heated 12V AN 5814-1 Pitot Tube from Spruce that I would like to
trade for a used RMI UEncoder if anyone is interested. It has sat idly by in my
Gretz mounting kit for the past two years and never been powered up. I no
longer will be needing it since I have decided to go with a DYNON and will be
purchasing they're pitot tube in order to get the AOA information that
installation offers. Please contact me off the group list if interested.
Doug Lomheim
90116 Fuselage
"ONCE YOU HAVE TASTED FLIGHT YOU WILL WALK THIS EARTH WITH YOUR EYES TURNED
SKYWARD. FOR THERE YOU HAVE BEEN, AND THERE YOU LONG TO RETURN"
Leonardo Da Vinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube swap? |
To any concerned, we have a guy in our EAA Chapter, engineer, designer etc.
that is designing an inexpensive heated pitot. It is in concept stage but will
happen. Interested parties contact me directly and I get more info.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube swap? |
How much do you want for the pitot? Neil Corella
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
billd(at)PSD.symbol.com
To those interested in the heated pitot:
A fellow in our E.A.A. Chapter 119, is building an RV10 and is also a design
engineer. He is doing some really neat things for his airplane and it has
been suggested that those things would be of interest to a lot of other folks
and certainly marketable. Besides the pitot he is working up an affordable
glass panel and a very interesting aircraft scale. Other ideas as well but I will
let him tell you about those.
Any one wishing to contact him can do so directly. His name is Bill
Derouchy. Email address: billd(at)PSD.symbol.com
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
Has anyone seen or heard of the CH products grip? What did you think? I like
the idea of an ambidextrous grip and $98.00 if you buy two.
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/CS.htm
Wayne Williams
Danville, VA
RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ch stick grips |
Wayne Williams wrote:
>
> Has anyone seen or heard of the CH products grip? What did you think? I like
> the idea of an ambidextrous grip and $98.00 if you buy two.
> http://www.chproducts.com/retail/CS.htm
Yes, I bought two of them. I am not quite flying yet,
but they are wired up and feel quite comfortable.
I bought them because not only are they ambidextrous,
but they have just the right number of switches in the
right places for what I want to do.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ch stick grips |
I have purchased two for use on my RV9A - the fact that they are
ambidextrous is one of the reasons I chose them. Not flying yet, but I
like them so far - they work great for basement flying :-) . One
caution, the switches are rated for very low current so you cannot do
any direct switching with them - not even switching a relay directly.
That is no problem for me since I am an EE and designed a small
interface board to give me robust outputs - but be aware of the limitation.
Dick Tasker
Wayne Williams wrote:
>
>Has anyone seen or heard of the CH products grip? What did you think? I like
>the idea of an ambidextrous grip and $98.00 if you buy two.
>http://www.chproducts.com/retail/CS.htm
>
>Wayne Williams
>Danville, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Tru-Trak pre-install |
Gents,
I am planning of putting in a single axis Tru-Trak auto pilot in my RV-7A someday.
So I plan on purchasing the bracket to do a pre-install while working on
my wings.
How large a diameter is the wire bundle leading to the servo. Is a 1/4 ID snap
grommet adequate to route this cable? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Comment on Dynon/Gretz combination |
I just finished installing a Dynon pitot in a Gretz mount. The problem I
found was that the pitot did not fit deep enough in the Gretz as the
holes in the pitot would have been too close to the edge of the mount.
The Gretz is predrilled for pitot mounting. The easy was to solve this
problem would have been to grind off the bottom of the Gretz but I had
ordered a chrome plated mount and did not want to risk delaminating the
chrome plating. If anybody buys a Gretz, I suggest they order a
non-chromed mount. The Dynon is going to need painting anyway so might
as well paint both. The Safeair mount looks interesting and is cheaper.
Leland in Pleasanton, California
D10A arrives Monday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tru-Trak pre-install |
Yes. Even if you use 20 gauge for all 7 wires, they will fit in a 1/4".
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
; ;
;
Subject: RV9-List: Tru-Trak pre-install
>
> Gents,
>
> I am planning of putting in a single axis Tru-Trak auto pilot in my RV-7A
someday. So I plan on purchasing the bracket to do a pre-install while
working on my wings.
>
> How large a diameter is the wire bundle leading to the servo. Is a 1/4 ID
snap grommet adequate to route this cable? Any thoughts would be
appreciated.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Fairing around windshield |
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield. Does
anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or otherwise that
might help me with this project? Any comments would be appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield |
I used Sikaflex-295 UV to "glue" and seal my windshield in place. The only
fiberglass I used was the upper band over the Roll Bar.
See this site for additional information:
http://www.sika.com/cmi-marine/cmi-marine-products-index.htm
It's available from:
Merritt Marine Supply
Pompano Beach, FL
954-946-5350
Dave Nicholson
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield. Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web
sites or otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would
be appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Fairing around windshield |
Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin
with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book talks
about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over the
glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an extra
week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking the
way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also. then
you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it hardens
quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield.
Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
Mine broke on one side only. It took only 25 hours. I repaired them
with the same hinge, had the engine dynamically balanced and have not
had any further cracking over the next 250 hours. Don't know if the
engine balance was the repair or not...
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:59 AM, Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has any one had any problems with the hinge that connects the engine
> cowling
> to the firewall breaking on an RV 9 ?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield |
I just finished mine. Came out perfect. I used three of those hold-down
bracket or pins or whatever they're called to hold down the bottom front of
the windshield. Then I put down all the layers of tape as you probably know
how to do. Then I mixed up a gob of flox (cotton fibers) and resin to a
fairly thick consistency. Then I squeezed it around the base of the
windshield so that I ended up with a small bead under and slightly inside
the bottom half of the windshield. Try to get a rough transition from the
windshild to the aluminum instrument cover with the flox misture. Feather
as much as possible. Dry, then rough sand. Then start laying down the
layers of cloth and resin. I used from six to eight layers. I used the 2
inch glass cloth on a roll. Easy. I used a friend familiar with fiber
glass. I would suggest the same for you. They are able to anticipate what
you need in the way of more resin, more cloth, or a third hand. And don't
cut too long of strips 24 to 30 inches is good enough. Way too hard to
handle when they're full of resin...which leads me to this suggestion:
Remember to lay out you cloth, apply the resin, then squeegee the excess off
with a plastic putty applicator. Then pick it up and apply the cloth where
you want it. Lot less messy with less drips, etc. Don't, and I mean don't
apply your cloth over your tape!!! If you do, you'll never do it again.
Lay your cloth down right next to your tape as close as you can --- but not
over. Keep an eye on it 'cause as you work laying down piece upon piece,
the underlying pieces will sometimes want to 'creep' over the tape and you
may miss it only to discover after everything is cured that you have tape
under your glass cloth. After curing, start sanding. Be agressive in
shaping but remember, if you cut into the cloth, you have just compromised
it's strengh. So be agressive in shaping, but use common sense. Use a 2x4
radiased(?) to the shape of the transition you desire. Here's another tip:
Use that sandpaper from 3M that costs a $1.25 a sheep. Don't remember the
name but it comes in colors. I used the red/maroon and green stuff. Worth
every penny! Cuts like diamonds and doesn't load up. Makes sanding almost
fun.
Once you've got the shape pretty close to what you want, mix up a nice
medium thick mixture of flox or micro baloons. Which, depends upon how much
cloth weave you sanded thru. You may want to use flox if you want that
strength back (harder to sand), or micro baloons to just shape and fill
(easy to sand). Squeegee it on pressing into the glass with a fair amout of
pressure using you plastic applicator. Then sand. Repeat this until you
puke. Watch your tape for wear. Tape is protecting your plexi in addition
to giving you that nice separation line.
Hope this helps,
Chuck
--- Original Message -----
>
> Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
> seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy
resin
> with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book
talks
> about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over
the
> glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an
extra
> week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking
the
> way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
> over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also.
then
> you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it
hardens
> quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
> careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
> like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
> that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
>
> Tod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield.
> Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
> otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
> appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04 |
If you put the control module back there with the servo then you only have 4
wires to run up to the panel. BTW, the led in the switch/indicator is very
bright, far too bright at night. A little experimenting resulted in a 5 meg
resistor to dim it down. This is one of the best additions you could put in
your plane, IHO.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Murray" <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04
>
> I am now flying with the TruTrak A/P. It works great.
> If I remember, there are nine wires in the bundle
> going to the server.
>
> Jim Murray 90430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
Can someone tell me more about "Sika"? Is it a fiberglass? What advantage
over glass?
Wayne Williams
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV9-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 08/09/04
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV9-List Digest can be also be found in either
of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-08-09.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-08-09.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV9-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 08/09/04: 6
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:31 AM - Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Ron Murray)
2. 07:26 AM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Dave
Nicholson)
3. 08:10 AM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Tod Watkins)
4. 10:39 AM - Re: Re:Cowl hinge (Andy Karmy)
5. 02:42 PM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Chuck Weyant)
6. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04 (Albert
Gardner)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield.
Does
anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or otherwise
that
might help me with this project? Any comments would be appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I used Sikaflex-295 UV to "glue" and seal my windshield in place. The only
fiberglass I used was the upper band over the Roll Bar.
See this site for additional information:
http://www.sika.com/cmi-marine/cmi-marine-products-index.htm
It's available from:
Merritt Marine Supply
Pompano Beach, FL
954-946-5350
Dave Nicholson
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield. Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web
sites or otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would
be appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin
with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book talks
about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over the
glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an extra
week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking the
way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also. then
you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it hardens
quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield.
Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
From: Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re:Cowl hinge
Mine broke on one side only. It took only 25 hours. I repaired them
with the same hinge, had the engine dynamically balanced and have not
had any further cracking over the next 250 hours. Don't know if the
engine balance was the repair or not...
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:59 AM, Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has any one had any problems with the hinge that connects the engine
> cowling
> to the firewall breaking on an RV 9 ?
>
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I just finished mine. Came out perfect. I used three of those hold-down
bracket or pins or whatever they're called to hold down the bottom front of
the windshield. Then I put down all the layers of tape as you probably know
how to do. Then I mixed up a gob of flox (cotton fibers) and resin to a
fairly thick consistency. Then I squeezed it around the base of the
windshield so that I ended up with a small bead under and slightly inside
the bottom half of the windshield. Try to get a rough transition from the
windshild to the aluminum instrument cover with the flox misture. Feather
as much as possible. Dry, then rough sand. Then start laying down the
layers of cloth and resin. I used from six to eight layers. I used the 2
inch glass cloth on a roll. Easy. I used a friend familiar with fiber
glass. I would suggest the same for you. They are able to anticipate what
you need in the way of more resin, more cloth, or a third hand. And don't
cut too long of strips 24 to 30 inches is good enough. Way too hard to
handle when they're full of resin...which leads me to this suggestion:
Remember to lay out you cloth, apply the resin, then squeegee the excess off
with a plastic putty applicator. Then pick it up and apply the cloth where
you want it. Lot less messy with less drips, etc. Don't, and I mean don't
apply your cloth over your tape!!! If you do, you'll never do it again.
Lay your cloth down right next to your tape as close as you can --- but not
over. Keep an eye on it 'cause as you work laying down piece upon piece,
the underlying pieces will sometimes want to 'creep' over the tape and you
may miss it only to discover after everything is cured that you have tape
under your glass cloth. After curing, start sanding. Be agressive in
shaping but remember, if you cut into the cloth, you have just compromised
it's strengh. So be agressive in shaping, but use common sense. Use a 2x4
radiased(?) to the shape of the transition you desire. Here's another tip:
Use that sandpaper from 3M that costs a $1.25 a sheep. Don't remember the
name but it comes in colors. I used the red/maroon and green stuff. Worth
every penny! Cuts like diamonds and doesn't load up. Makes sanding almost
fun.
Once you've got the shape pretty close to what you want, mix up a nice
medium thick mixture of flox or micro baloons. Which, depends upon how much
cloth weave you sanded thru. You may want to use flox if you want that
strength back (harder to sand), or micro baloons to just shape and fill
(easy to sand). Squeegee it on pressing into the glass with a fair amout of
pressure using you plastic applicator. Then sand. Repeat this until you
puke. Watch your tape for wear. Tape is protecting your plexi in addition
to giving you that nice separation line.
Hope this helps,
Chuck
--- Original Message -----
>
> Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
> seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy
resin
> with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book
talks
> about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over
the
> glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an
extra
> week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking
the
> way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
> over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also.
then
> you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it
hardens
> quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
> careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
> like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
> that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
>
> Tod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield.
> Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
> otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
> appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
>
>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04
If you put the control module back there with the servo then you only have 4
wires to run up to the panel. BTW, the led in the switch/indicator is very
bright, far too bright at night. A little experimenting resulted in a 5 meg
resistor to dim it down. This is one of the best additions you could put in
your plane, IHO.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Murray" <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04
>
> I am now flying with the TruTrak A/P. It works great.
> If I remember, there are nine wires in the bundle
> going to the server.
>
> Jim Murray 90430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
Sika flex is a marine adhesive that was developed to use in plexiglass
applications on water craft. It works well and some say they do not even
use any rivets in the canopy only sika flex.. we however used both but it
adds a great deal in the way of a water proof seal between the skirts and
the plexiglass in case you set your plane outside... most marine outlets
will know about it, and it comes in a caulking tube. we bought 3 tubes but
one tube is enough to do the entire canopy .. and it must be used with the
primer to bond correctly.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Williams
Subject: RV9-List: Sika
Can someone tell me more about "Sika"? Is it a fiberglass? What advantage
over glass?
Wayne Williams
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV9-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 08/09/04
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV9-List Digest can be also be found in either
of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-08-09.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-08-09.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV9-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 08/09/04: 6
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:31 AM - Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Ron Murray)
2. 07:26 AM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Dave
Nicholson)
3. 08:10 AM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Tod Watkins)
4. 10:39 AM - Re: Re:Cowl hinge (Andy Karmy)
5. 02:42 PM - Re: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield (Chuck Weyant)
6. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04 (Albert
Gardner)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield.
Does
anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or otherwise
that
might help me with this project? Any comments would be appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I used Sikaflex-295 UV to "glue" and seal my windshield in place. The only
fiberglass I used was the upper band over the Roll Bar.
See this site for additional information:
http://www.sika.com/cmi-marine/cmi-marine-products-index.htm
It's available from:
Merritt Marine Supply
Pompano Beach, FL
954-946-5350
Dave Nicholson
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield. Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web
sites or otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would
be appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin
with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book talks
about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over the
glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an extra
week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking the
way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also. then
you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it hardens
quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my windshield.
Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
appreciated!
Ron Murray
90291 N937RK
Mooresville, NC
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
From: Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re:Cowl hinge
Mine broke on one side only. It took only 25 hours. I repaired them
with the same hinge, had the engine dynamically balanced and have not
had any further cracking over the next 250 hours. Don't know if the
engine balance was the repair or not...
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:59 AM, Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has any one had any problems with the hinge that connects the engine
> cowling
> to the firewall breaking on an RV 9 ?
>
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
I just finished mine. Came out perfect. I used three of those hold-down
bracket or pins or whatever they're called to hold down the bottom front of
the windshield. Then I put down all the layers of tape as you probably know
how to do. Then I mixed up a gob of flox (cotton fibers) and resin to a
fairly thick consistency. Then I squeezed it around the base of the
windshield so that I ended up with a small bead under and slightly inside
the bottom half of the windshield. Try to get a rough transition from the
windshild to the aluminum instrument cover with the flox misture. Feather
as much as possible. Dry, then rough sand. Then start laying down the
layers of cloth and resin. I used from six to eight layers. I used the 2
inch glass cloth on a roll. Easy. I used a friend familiar with fiber
glass. I would suggest the same for you. They are able to anticipate what
you need in the way of more resin, more cloth, or a third hand. And don't
cut too long of strips 24 to 30 inches is good enough. Way too hard to
handle when they're full of resin...which leads me to this suggestion:
Remember to lay out you cloth, apply the resin, then squeegee the excess off
with a plastic putty applicator. Then pick it up and apply the cloth where
you want it. Lot less messy with less drips, etc. Don't, and I mean don't
apply your cloth over your tape!!! If you do, you'll never do it again.
Lay your cloth down right next to your tape as close as you can --- but not
over. Keep an eye on it 'cause as you work laying down piece upon piece,
the underlying pieces will sometimes want to 'creep' over the tape and you
may miss it only to discover after everything is cured that you have tape
under your glass cloth. After curing, start sanding. Be agressive in
shaping but remember, if you cut into the cloth, you have just compromised
it's strengh. So be agressive in shaping, but use common sense. Use a 2x4
radiased(?) to the shape of the transition you desire. Here's another tip:
Use that sandpaper from 3M that costs a $1.25 a sheep. Don't remember the
name but it comes in colors. I used the red/maroon and green stuff. Worth
every penny! Cuts like diamonds and doesn't load up. Makes sanding almost
fun.
Once you've got the shape pretty close to what you want, mix up a nice
medium thick mixture of flox or micro baloons. Which, depends upon how much
cloth weave you sanded thru. You may want to use flox if you want that
strength back (harder to sand), or micro baloons to just shape and fill
(easy to sand). Squeegee it on pressing into the glass with a fair amout of
pressure using you plastic applicator. Then sand. Repeat this until you
puke. Watch your tape for wear. Tape is protecting your plexi in addition
to giving you that nice separation line.
Hope this helps,
Chuck
--- Original Message -----
>
> Hi Ron.. I just finished ours .. we used sikaflex also as a good weather
> seal on our slider and skirts but used the fiberglass cloth and epoxy
resin
> with micro ballons to finish it off around the windscreen as the book
talks
> about, . my advice is go slow. build up the resin and micro ballons over
the
> glass cloth slowly as I did that part a bit to fast and added about an
extra
> week or two of sanding to the project to get it all smoothed and looking
the
> way I wanted it. be careful to not get to much resin and micro ballons
> over the top of your electrical tape as that adds to the sanding also.
then
> you can fill the low spots and pin holes with polyester resin as it
hardens
> quickly and you can sand it sooner, within about 20 minutes. just be
> careful not to get the polyester on the windscreen as plexiglass does not
> like the polyester resins. thats my advice for what its worth.. I am glad
> that part is over as I am sure you will be when yours is done. good luck.
>
> Tod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Murray
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Fiberglass Fairing around windshield
>
>
> I'm getting ready to put the fiberglass molding strip around my
windshield.
> Does anyone out there have any tips, tricks, pictures, web sites or
> otherwise that might help me with this project? Any comments would be
> appreciated!
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291 N937RK
> Mooresville, NC
>
>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04
If you put the control module back there with the servo then you only have 4
wires to run up to the panel. BTW, the led in the switch/indicator is very
bright, far too bright at night. A little experimenting resulted in a 5 meg
resistor to dim it down. This is one of the best additions you could put in
your plane, IHO.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Murray" <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/07/04
>
> I am now flying with the TruTrak A/P. It works great.
> If I remember, there are nine wires in the bundle
> going to the server.
>
> Jim Murray 90430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd(at)insightbb.com> |
Sikaflex-295 UV
Sikaflex-295 UV is a fast-curing, one-component, flexible, high-performance
polyurethane-based adhesive for bonding and sealing of windows and
portholes. Sikaflex-295 UV is suitable for all types of organic (PC, PMMA)
window panes.
Packaging Information
310 ml cartridge; 400 ml unipac (sausage), black, white
See this site for additional information:
http://www.sika.com/cmi-marine/cmi-marine-products-index.htm
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Sika
>
> Can someone tell me more about "Sika"? Is it a fiberglass? What advantage
> over glass?
>
> Wayne Williams
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Sat in the -9 for the first time last weekend. The stick isnt half long.
Anyone cutting bits off? Anyone talked to VANS as to why? Steve.
#90360
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick length |
It's your choice. If I do anything, it'll be to cut off 1" or so.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: Stick length
>
> Sat in the -9 for the first time last weekend. The stick isnt half long.
> Anyone cutting bits off? Anyone talked to VANS as to why? Steve.
> #90360
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the angle
correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the angle
correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick length |
I don't normally discuss my stick length, but it was long enough that I
felt I could lose 1.5" and I don't regret the decision after 160 hours of
flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant |
There used to be an add on the WWW vans site for a Piper style throttle
quadant for side by side panels (middle panel position). Does anyone have
this supplier(s) information?
Thanksd,
Terry Hobert, 9A fuselage/finish
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant |
Terry check here on the links and info .. I found them here advertised.. 2
and 3 lever quadrants.. http://www.vansairforce.net/
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Hobert
Subject: RV9-List: Throttle Quadrant
There used to be an add on the WWW vans site for a Piper style throttle
quadant for side by side panels (middle panel position). Does anyone have
this supplier(s) information?
Thanksd,
Terry Hobert, 9A fuselage/finish
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
John, I am mounting mine to the side of the fuse, just behind the
bulkhead behind the baggage compartment. You want it at least a foot
away from all wiring, and preferably, away from any magnetic material.
You also have to be able to get close enough to adjust its tilt to
within 0.2 degrees of the D10. My cabling is too short to allow any
location other than the fuselage.
Take a look at Dan Checkoway's site to see how he mounted his
magnetometer to a bulkhead.
http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
Search the main Matronics archives under Wheeler&Dynon to find several
posts by Wheeler North. Wheeler mounted his on wood blocks under a wing
tip. Here is a list of locations Wheeler analyzed:
1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
Fair, but you have the steel hardware for the vert and horizontal stab, as
well as elevator horns
2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
Poor, if steel or magnets are loaded into baggage area, and if slider
version then you have steel canopy frame.
3. Outboard in a wing bay
Seems like best place, as long as no major current wires nearby and in
leading edge away from aileron.
4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
Bad, flaps bar is steel, as well as flap motor, and baggage loading, see 2
5. Under the baggage floor skins
bad, same as 2 and 4
6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
bad, same as 2 and 4
7. Inside the baggage compartment
bad, same as 2 and 4, (I assume that you don't mean the forward one in an 8,
in which case if this location works then the internal unit should work.)
8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
bad, same as 2 and 4
9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
Fair, but a bitch to get to, and very hard to get exactly oriented and get
it stiff enough to not vibrate.
10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
skin, or mount to bottom skin.
Same as 9
11. Inside a wing tip.
good as long as nothing else is in there
As you can see this thing is not that easy to locate, particularly if you
have a bunch of stuff in your wingtips and leading edges. Then once you find
a spot getting it matched to the main unit and mounted securly isn't that
easy either.
My notes on how I did it should be in the archives
W
>
>where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the angle
>correct with a minimum of fuss?
>John
>
>
>where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the angle
>correct with a minimum of fuss?
>
>
>John
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
I put mine just in front of F-709.
If I were doing it again I would choose between that location and inside a
wingtip.
Steve
#90360
UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon EFIS
where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
how critical did you find it to be in mounting it square with the panel unit in
each of roll pitch and yaw?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I put mine just in front of F-709.
>
> If I were doing it again I would choose between that location and inside a
> wingtip.
>
> Steve
> #90360
> UK
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
> To: rv9- list
> Subject: RV9-List: Dynon EFIS
>
>
>
> where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
> angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
> John
>
>
> where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
> angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
>
>
> John
>
> ---
>
>
>
>
>
>
how critical did you find it to be in mounting it square with the panel unit in
each of roll pitch and yaw?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
I put mine just in front of F-709.
If I were doing it again I would choose between that location and inside a
wingtip.
Steve
#90360
UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
To: rv9- list
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon EFIS
-- RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
where are you installing the remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
where are you installing t
he remote sensor for the Dynon in order to get the
angle correct with a minimum of fuss?
John
---
Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant |
More specifically... http://www.vansairforce.net/djm/djmmfg.htm
DJM Manufacturing. I got mine from Dayton, and they're pretty nice.
Reasonably priced too.
Mark Taylor
From: "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Throttle Quadrant
Terry check here on the links and info .. I found them here advertised.. 2
and 3 lever quadrants.. http://www.vansairforce.net/
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Hobert
Subject: RV9-List: Throttle Quadrant
There used to be an add on the WWW vans site for a Piper style throttle
quadant for side by side panels (middle panel position). Does anyone have
this supplier(s) information?
Thanksd,
Terry Hobert, 9A fuselage/finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jib Ray <jib(at)interwoof.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling drag study |
Back in the late 70s or early 80s Stan Miley at Old Dominion University did
a study on air cooled engine cooling drag. Does anyone know where I can
find a copy of this?
Jib Ray
jib(at)interwoof.com
90032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Small celebration for me |
Congratulations Bill. Keep on hacking at it and you will have an airplane to
be proud of sooner than you think.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | 9A gear weldment |
Hi all,
Has anyone noticed an interference problem on the main gear weldments?
The bottom-most rivet on the side skins through the center section
seems to intersect with the weldment flange that takes the 5 bolts.
Here's a picture:
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/images/20040813_IMG_1219.JPG
Seems like the safest thing to do is remove it and relieve the
weldment -- wish I hadn't bolted it in yet! Those bolts at the bottom
sure are hard to work on, and the seat pan platnuts make removal very
difficult.
If you haven't gotten this far yet I'd highly recommend
figuring this out before installation...I'll post Van's response
as well when they get back to me.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on the rudder, verticle
stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period of time.
Any advice on this is appreciated
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: 9A gear weldment |
I have a 7A and I remember somewhere the rivet call out is to double flush
this one and the one on the other side as well. By your picture you don't have
the gear bracket bolted in. The rivet goes inside out BTW
I think this will solve your interfearance problem
Tad Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 9A gear weldment |
Well, my blueprint shows a universal head rivet and no note for
double-flush or inside-out in that location. I don't think
inside-out would be sufficient to solve the problem.
>
> I have a 7A and I remember somewhere the rivet call out is to double flush
> this one and the one on the other side as well. By your picture you don't have
> the gear bracket bolted in. The rivet goes inside out BTW
>
> I think this will solve your interfearance problem
> Tad Sargent
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
does anyone have a mailing address for SteinAir handy?
John
does anyone have a mailing address for SteinAir handy?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <kerrjohna(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Stein Bruch
>
> does anyone have a mailing address for SteinAir handy?
> John
>
>
> does anyone have a mailing address for SteinAir handy?
>
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still on List |
No, we are here, It's just quiet now... I was just sitting here
thinking about the RV9 accident at Westport, and how that must really
suck!
You would think that 28 gallons would get you from Eugene to Westport,
however in this case it didn't (or wasn't there in the first place).
This is the second 9A that we have lost due to fuel management, let's
all be careful out there!
- Andy Karmy
RV9A - 250hrsTT!
andy(at)karmy.com
On Aug 17, 2004, at 11:49 AM, Terry Hobert wrote:
>
> I haven't recieved any RV9 mail in days. Just quiet or did I get
> disconnected?
>
> Terry Hobert RV9A Fuselage/finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: [RV-9A] Westport WA RV-9A Accident |
Just realized that my last post was referring to a post on the Yahoo
list... Here it is for those that didn't see it.
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Pilot" <dhugunin(at)comcast.net>
> Date: August 17, 2004 7:50:05 AM PDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Westport WA RV-9A Accident
> Reply-To: RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> NTSB Identification: SEA04LA157
> 14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
> Accident occurred Saturday, August 07, 2004 in Westport, WA
> Aircraft: Headrick Vans RV9A, registration: N3086J
> Injuries: 1 Serious, 1 Minor.
>
> This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain
> errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final
> report has been completed.
>
> On August 7, 2004, about 1500 Pacific daylight time, an experimental
> Headrick Vans RV9A, N3086J, registered to and operated by the pilot as
> a 14 CFR Part 91 personal flight, experienced a loss of engine power
> while on downwind for landing at the Westport Airport, Westport,
> Washington. During the forced landing, the aircraft collided with
> trees and the terrain short of runway 30. Visual meteorological
> conditions prevailed at the time and no flight plan was filed. The
> aircraft was substantially damaged. The private pilot was seriously
> injured and the passenger received minor injuries. The aircraft
> departed from Eugene, Oregon, about one hour and thirty minutes prior
> to the accident.
>
> During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that he departed from
> Eugene with about 28 gallons of fuel. About 30 miles out from landing,
> the pilot noted that the fuel gage for the right tank (tank selected)
> was indicating about 2.5 gallons of fuel. When the flight reached the
> airport, the pilot flew a low downwind to check out the sand bar north
> of the airport as he and his passenger were planning on fishing in
> that area. The pilot then turned back to the airport and set-up for a
> landing on runway 30. The pilot reported that while on downwind, the
> engine started running rough, the rpm decreased, and the engine
> subsequently quit. The pilot initiated a forced landing just short of
> the runway. During the descent, the aircraft collided with trees and
> the ground.
>
> A Federal Aviation Administration Inspector from the Seattle,
> Washington, Flight Standards District Office responded to the accident
> site. The inspector reported that the right fuel tank was empty of
> fuel, while the left fuel tank still contained some fuel. The pilot
> reported that he had been operating off of the right fuel tank at the
> time of the loss of power.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: wfdeane
> To: RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 6:43 AM
> Subject: [RV-9A] Westport WA RV-9A Accident
>
>
> There was a landing accident with one of our 9A group on the west
> coast Saturday, August 7, 2004. A little blurb on the TV news (via
> internet)had very little information about the seriousness of the
> accident. Similarly the accident report on the NTSB site was devoid
> of much hard info. Anybody out in WA and OR know the extent of
> damage, cause and condition of occupants?
>
> Bill Deane
> 70 Hours on 90346
>
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> -------
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-9A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-9A/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Eastham <eastham(at)netapp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 9A gear weldment |
The response from Van's is that the weldment should be ground down to
avoid the rivet. This is not in the plans or manual but will apply to
all 9As, so make a note of it. Do it before you even attempt to
place the weldment since it is hard to remove even without the dozens
of hard-to-reach bolts I've already torqued on... :(
Paul
>
> Hi all,
> Has anyone noticed an interference problem on the main gear weldments?
> The bottom-most rivet on the side skins through the center section
> seems to intersect with the weldment flange that takes the 5 bolts.
> Here's a picture:
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/images/20040813_IMG_1219.JPG
>
> Seems like the safest thing to do is remove it and relieve the
> weldment -- wish I hadn't bolted it in yet! Those bolts at the bottom
> sure are hard to work on, and the seat pan platnuts make removal very
> difficult.
>
> If you haven't gotten this far yet I'd highly recommend
> figuring this out before installation...I'll post Van's response
> as well when they get back to me.
>
> Paul
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 9A gear weldment |
Paul
This is probably too late to help you now, but I believe this tip came from
another builder some time ago. I have noted on both side skins to flush this
particular rivet from the inside to preclude the gear weldment interference
that you have experienced. Other 9A builders might want to take note of
this to avoid the problem. This may also apply to 7A builders as well.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham(at)netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: 9A gear weldment
>
> The response from Van's is that the weldment should be ground down to
> avoid the rivet. This is not in the plans or manual but will apply to
> all 9As, so make a note of it. Do it before you even attempt to
> place the weldment since it is hard to remove even without the dozens
> of hard-to-reach bolts I've already torqued on... :(
>
> Paul
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > Has anyone noticed an interference problem on the main gear weldments?
> > The bottom-most rivet on the side skins through the center section
> > seems to intersect with the weldment flange that takes the 5 bolts.
> > Here's a picture:
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/images/20040813_IMG_1219.JPG
> >
> > Seems like the safest thing to do is remove it and relieve the
> > weldment -- wish I hadn't bolted it in yet! Those bolts at the bottom
> > sure are hard to work on, and the seat pan platnuts make removal very
> > difficult.
> >
> > If you haven't gotten this far yet I'd highly recommend
> > figuring this out before installation...I'll post Van's response
> > as well when they get back to me.
> >
> > Paul
> > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | A little help please |
Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9, I am starting to
dream about the instrument panel and electrical system.
Please take a look at my panel layout and let me know what you think.
(I would like to hear positive and negative comments.) Remember, this
is going to be a simple VFR aircraft, thus the simple layout and lack of
fancy equipment, like auto-pilot, VOR, etc.
Note the switch placement, I figure I'll be using them less than I the
radio, intercom, and transponder, thus the positioning of them. Plus, I
won't have to switch (no pun intended) hands to reach them.
You can find the layout on my web page,
http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
Bill,
Obviously, you subscribe to the "Less is More" newsgroup! I like your
layout for what you are doing. I would consider adding an airspeed
indicator as a backup (not that a Dynon will ever fail) and I will say I
really liked what I saw and heard in the XCOM 760 at Oshkosh. It would
replace the com unit and intercom, simplifying wiring a bit and costing
perhaps a little less. See www.xcom760.com for more (I plan on being a
customer, not associated with them.)
I think your switch placement is right on.
Bob Kelly, 90854, fuselage (okay, I just got it out of the boxes)
On 08/19/04, Bill Repucci wrote:
>
> Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9, I am starting to
> dream about the instrument panel and electrical system.
>
> Please take a look at my panel layout and let me know what you think.
> (I would like to hear positive and negative comments.) Remember, this
> is going to be a simple VFR aircraft, thus the simple layout and lack of
> fancy equipment, like auto-pilot, VOR, etc.
>
> Note the switch placement, I figure I'll be using them less than I the
> radio, intercom, and transponder, thus the positioning of them. Plus, I
> won't have to switch (no pun intended) hands to reach them.
>
> You can find the layout on my web page,
> http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
>
> Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
>
> Bill R.
> RV-9
> SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
I went the other way with my panel. Check it out. Its an IFR panel with wing
leveler and alt. hold.....www.neilsplane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
I would switch the CD player and the map box. Remember when this is all
said and done you're only access for maintainace will be from under the
panel and that map box extends all the way through the sub panel and
that will make it nearly impossible to get to the back of your CD
player. This all assumes a slider canopy even though your panel looks
different than mine. I know there is some access from above on the
tip-up but I don't know how much, but it's something to think about anyway.
I have a similar arrangement and I have done extensive "garage flying"
and I like it so far. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Bill Repucci wrote:
>
>Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9, I am starting to
>dream about the instrument panel and electrical system.
>
>Please take a look at my panel layout and let me know what you think.
>(I would like to hear positive and negative comments.) Remember, this
>is going to be a simple VFR aircraft, thus the simple layout and lack of
>fancy equipment, like auto-pilot, VOR, etc.
>
>Note the switch placement, I figure I'll be using them less than I the
>radio, intercom, and transponder, thus the positioning of them. Plus, I
>won't have to switch (no pun intended) hands to reach them.
>
>You can find the layout on my web page,
>http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
>
>Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
>
>Bill R.
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
Bill,
I am uncomfortable with toggle switches where heads or other critical body
parts can hit them in a crash. Saw an example back in the '60's where a
teenage girl was killed when her head hit a radio knob which penetrated her
skull. I prefer rocker switches for this reason.
Just one person's opinion & certainly not an expert.
Richard Scott
At 07:29 PM 8/18/2004, you wrote:
>
>Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9, I am starting to
>dream about the instrument panel and electrical system.
>
>Please take a look at my panel layout and let me know what you think.
>(I would like to hear positive and negative comments.) Remember, this
>is going to be a simple VFR aircraft, thus the simple layout and lack of
>fancy equipment, like auto-pilot, VOR, etc.
>
>Note the switch placement, I figure I'll be using them less than I the
>radio, intercom, and transponder, thus the positioning of them. Plus, I
>won't have to switch (no pun intended) hands to reach them.
>
>You can find the layout on my web page,
>http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
>
>Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
>
>Bill R.
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
| From: | James H Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Bill,
Well its a nice layout. You can spend much less by not using any
glass panel displays and using steam gages. It would be simpler since
your only going VFR.. A lot less expensive. You need to set your
priorities and budget and go for it. Let it be an expression of your
airplane. I've been designing mine for two months and I figure it will
take another 4 months. I want more than I can spend-- as if that is a
unique problem for us RV drivers / builders.
Jim
(?N599RV applied for)
90599
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A little help please |
Nice and simple is good.
A few comments:
I wouldn't install a cd/radio/dvd in the panel. These
devices will be out of date in time and I think you'll
be better off with a portable DVD player, MP3 player,
or whatever that you plug into an audio-in jack. This
way you can use the DVD player in the car too! Also,
it is one more thing to go wrong.
Same thing for the Garmin handheld GPS. If you cut a
hole in your panel for it now, what happens in 5 years
when you want the newest one? It won't fit. Although
you do have the 'modular' panel so you could just
create a new section, this would still be a pain that
I'd rather avoid. Use a mount for the GPS that you
can change to install next model easily.
I wouldn't bother with the backup engine instruments.
Running the sensors to two different systems will be a
major pain. If you lose your engine instruments it
isn't the end of the world anyway.
I'd move the lighting and other switches down by the
master. You might want to extend that radio stack up
someday and the switches will be in the way. So will
the intercom and ELT... move them up over the map
box... you rarely need to touch them.
I don't see an hour-meter or a low oil pressure,
overvolt, or other warning lights.
I assume you're going to have manual trim since I
don't see a trim indicator or switch.
I like your flap, throttle, mixture, carb heat
arrangement. Mine has the carb heat and flaps
reversed, and I wish they were the other way.
Now, with those suggestions, your panel will look
something like mine!
--Clay
--- Bill Repucci wrote:
>
>
> Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9,
> I am starting to
> dream about the instrument panel and electrical
> system.
>
> Please take a look at my panel layout and let me
> know what you think.
>>
> You can find the layout on my web page,
> http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
>
> Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
>
> Bill R.
> RV-9
> SN: 90737
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | A little help please |
Bill you may know already but it is worth thinking about the noise that is
created in the CD player due to the oscillator which will create static
noise in your radio when in close proximity, such as you have in this panel
layout. It is adviseable to mount the CD player remotely such as maybe on
the back of the passenger seat, or baggage compartment and then use a remote
control to run it. If you get a player that will accept several CD's you
can just load it up before you go and not have to change CD's in flight. And
personally I would keep all the switches close together in the same spot
preferably down at the bottom where you have the master, for easy of wiring
as the wire bundle is going to have to route to the bottom and then up to
the top to catch all the upper switches. working behind the panel is hard
enough with out haveing to reach clear to the top and having it all in the
same cutout that the radio is in just complicates your future access along
with a bit of extra work initially. Thats my thoughts for what its worth..
good luck with what ever you decide to go with there..
Tod
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Repucci
Subject: RV9-List: A little help please
Now that I have ordered the fuselage kit for my -9, I am starting to
dream about the instrument panel and electrical system.
Please take a look at my panel layout and let me know what you think.
(I would like to hear positive and negative comments.) Remember, this
is going to be a simple VFR aircraft, thus the simple layout and lack of
fancy equipment, like auto-pilot, VOR, etc.
Note the switch placement, I figure I'll be using them less than I the
radio, intercom, and transponder, thus the positioning of them. Plus, I
won't have to switch (no pun intended) hands to reach them.
You can find the layout on my web page,
http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.
Thanks for your comments, good and bad.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
Yes, it fits. You have to hold the stack down a bit. You still have to trim
the support rib a bit. You dont have to cut the bracket or doubler at all....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Could someone remind me about the positions on the VANS supplied valve.
One position is L Tank, one R Tank. Am I correct in thinking the other two
are both 'OFF' or is one 'Both'? I am just getting some labelling made up
and cant get to the valve.
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
UK
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Steve,
The valve that came with my RV-7 kit has Left, Right, Off, and Off.
Best,
Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 finishing
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
April 18, 2004 - August 23, 2004
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ao