RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ap
August 23, 2004 - December 28, 2004
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV9-List: Fuel valve
>Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 19:39:27 +0100
>
>
>Could someone remind me about the positions on the VANS supplied valve.
>One position is L Tank, one R Tank. Am I correct in thinking the other two
>are both 'OFF' or is one 'Both'? I am just getting some labelling made up
>and cant get to the valve.
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>#90360
>UK
>
>---
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder wiring question |
For those of you who elected to put a marker light/strobe on the rudder
(mounted in the lower fiberglass faring), how did you run the wire? Seems
that getting the wire out of the fuselage and into the rudder, including the
necessary flexing, is a bit of a problem. I want to avoid having it chafe
or break from flexing.
Thanks,
Bob Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Both Tanks & Dauz fasteners |
Two questions:
1. Has anyone figured out a way to have a "both" setting on an RV fuel
valve? Say 2 fuel pumps or somehting, with pressure sensors? I'm sure
someone has a "both" set-up???
2. Could someone point me to a website with a good decription of attaching
an RV cowling with something easier than a piano hinge. I have heard many
use Dauz fasteners (sp?)?
Thanks,
Bryan
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Rudder wiring question |
Bob I just asked Van's guys about this same point. Their suggestion is to drill
a small through the bulkheads and place a plastic grommet in the hole. My thought
was to heat shrink tubing protect them and rout them through the small
holes that exist. Their answer is better, safer and done. A 1/4 inch grommet
hole should do.
Tad. 7A
"Bob Smith" wrote:
>
>
>For those of you who elected to put a marker light/strobe on the rudder
>(mounted in the lower fiberglass faring), how did you run the wire? Seems
>that getting the wire out of the fuselage and into the rudder, including the
>necessary flexing, is a bit of a problem. I want to avoid having it chafe
>or break from flexing.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Smith
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jib Ray <jib(at)interwoof.com> |
| Subject: | wing tip trailing edge alignment |
The trailing edges of my wing tips are about .3 inches lower then the
trailing edges of the ailerons. I adjusted the aileron positions using the
fixture that uses the key tooling holes in the outer wing rib. The ailerons
align okay with the flaps in their full up position.
Has anyone else encountered this?
Jib Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Both Tanks & Dauz fasteners |
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone figured out a way to have a "both" setting on an RV fuel
> valve? Say 2 fuel pumps or somehting, with pressure sensors? I'm sure
> someone has a "both" set-up???
In a low wing airplane, you would not want a 'both' position. The reason
for this is that the fuel will tend to pump from the path of least
resistance, which may be an empty tank!
> 2. Could someone point me to a website with a good decription of attaching
> an RV cowling with something easier than a piano hinge. I have heard many
> use Dauz fasteners (sp?)?
Dzus fasteners work great but are expensive and are visible, where the piano
hinge is invisible, cheap and simple.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Both Tanks & Dauz fasteners |
Bryan,
Don't be too quick to switch from piano hinge. They do a good job of
spreading the stress on the fiberglass edge of your cowling. Va'n's does not
reccomend Dauz fasteners and some folks who did it anyway have had trouble with
causing cracks.
The piano hinge is not really all that difficult and provides a nice fit.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9, N164DV
87.2 hours and loving it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Both Tanks & Dzus fasteners |
Hmmmm......I'm not totally sure I agree with that. Couple of things:
1) The "Dauz" Fasteners mentioned are "Dzus" fastners, and not normally used
on cowls. They are little fastners that hook over a springy pice of wire
and are generally used on things like belly skins of Husky's, Scout's, etc..
2) The fasteners used for the RV cowls are the Skybolt fasteners
(http://www.skybolt.com). They are specially made fasteners for cowls,
being adjustable camlock type fasteners, but superior in a few ways.
3) I'm unaware of anyone who used the skybolt fasteners having cracking
problems, but I am aware of LOTS of piano hing installations having craking
after a couple hundred hours. There are a lot of RV's with craked eyes on
the piano hinges.
4) Yes, the piano hinges work fine, but the folded hinges are prone to
cracking, which is why a number of people buy the higher dollar extruded
hinge to begin with. The fast glass guys often use extruded carbon fiber
hinges to alleviate the cracking problems of the old folded hinges.
Now, like a lot of things one method seems to work fine and is quite
attractive (hinges). That being said, and coming from someone who actually
has one of each flying - 1 RV with hinges and 1 RV with the skybolt
fasteners, and like nearly 100% of everyone I've spoken with in similar
situations (those that have actually used both), I'll never go back to
hinges again. There are a couple areas where the hinges are just so far
superior that it isn't really even debatable, but here's where the skybolt
fasteners are a life saver. First, around the upper firewall curves - NO
more scratched, burned hands, no more cussing, swearing, etc.. Second, at
the bottom of the firewall/cowl - No more burnt wrists trying to get the
pins out along side the hot exhaust.
There are a number of people who just buy the skybolt fasteners for the
firewall (as that is where the majority of the hinges cracked) and still use
the hinges for the cowl sides. I think that would still be just fine.
In the end, I can whip the skybolt cowl on and off in literally a minute or
two with no fuss, mess, or anything. It's like a lot of things, you like
something just fine until you actually try the other, then you'll never go
back. They skybolt stuff is pricey, but well worth it. I'm guessing the
cracking stories are referring to the hinges, not the skybolts. Take a look
at the archives and you'll find a TON of incidents from cracked hinge eyes,
and lot's of good feedback on the skybolt fasteners. No comparision between
the two!
Anyway, I'm in no way associated with the Skybolt company, just someone who
is flying with one of each and would rather use the skybolt fasteners any
day, hands down!
BTW, I called a couple guys at Van's today just to see if they were against
the skybolt fasteners, and actually the only negative I heard was the price!
Regarding Dzus fasteners, of course they wouldn't recommend them, in a cowl
application they would not work well. Any fastener you use on the cowl of
that type needs to be depth adjustable and standard camlock/southco/dzus
fasteners are not.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Both Tanks & Dauz fasteners
Bryan,
Don't be too quick to switch from piano hinge. They do a good job of
spreading the stress on the fiberglass edge of your cowling. Va'n's does
not
reccomend Dauz fasteners and some folks who did it anyway have had trouble
with
causing cracks.
The piano hinge is not really all that difficult and provides a nice fit.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9, N164DV
87.2 hours and loving it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Ross/ Konrad - thanks, Steve.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip trailing edge alignment |
Hi,
I did encounter this, I slit the wingtip TE and part way up the
outside...maybe about 1/3 from the TE, then epoxy/floxed the TE and laid up
FG cloth on the inside of the slit in the 1/3 part of the tip...it
worked...just a lot of extra work and sanding/filling.
Harold Kovac, filling the rivet dimples on both wings, then the Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jib Ray" <jib(at)interwoof.com>
Subject: RV9-List: wing tip trailing edge alignment
>
> The trailing edges of my wing tips are about .3 inches lower then the
> trailing edges of the ailerons. I adjusted the aileron positions using the
> fixture that uses the key tooling holes in the outer wing rib. The
ailerons
> align okay with the flaps in their full up position.
>
> Has anyone else encountered this?
>
> Jib Ray
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jib Ray <jib(at)interwoof.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip trailing edge alignment |
Slitting the edges sounds like a good way to make the adjustment. I have
considered flying it before making any changes.
Jib Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip trailing edge alignment |
I riveted the wingtip on and made an access panel on the lower
forward third of the tip...used nutplates & screws , opening 4 x 7 & 12
fasteners. I can get in past my elbow and reach anything i need to access.
Harold----- Original Message -----
From: "Jib Ray" <jib(at)interwoof.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing tip trailing edge alignment
>
> Slitting the edges sounds like a good way to make the adjustment. I have
> considered flying it before making any changes.
>
> Jib Ray
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Hobert" <terhobey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still on List |
Thanks Andy, Glad to know I'm still connected. I see there was still fuel
in his left tank? He didn't switch tanks when the engine started rumbling?
I suppose we all need re-current emergency procedure training so it becomes
second nature. Then in the process of landing maybe not enough time?
I guess it is easy to say to fill your tanks before flight each time, but
circumstances can always creep in.
Thanks again,
Terry 9A fuselage
>From: Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com>
>Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Still on List
>Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:16:46 -0700
>
>
>No, we are here, It's just quiet now... I was just sitting here
>thinking about the RV9 accident at Westport, and how that must really
>suck!
>
>You would think that 28 gallons would get you from Eugene to Westport,
>however in this case it didn't (or wasn't there in the first place).
>This is the second 9A that we have lost due to fuel management, let's
>all be careful out there!
>
>- Andy Karmy
> RV9A - 250hrsTT!
> andy(at)karmy.com
>
>On Aug 17, 2004, at 11:49 AM, Terry Hobert wrote:
>
> >
> > I haven't recieved any RV9 mail in days. Just quiet or did I get
> > disconnected?
> >
> > Terry Hobert RV9A Fuselage/finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip trailing edge alignment |
I had to do the same thing on my left wingtip. Slice,
drill out and make a new tip rib, and reinstall
everything.
I think the secret to getting this right is to first
use the aileron jig to position the aileron in trail
and figure out a way to hold it perfectly in position.
Then, start to fit the wing tip and drill the
attachment holes while holding the TE of the tip
inline with the aileron. The challenge is to
clamp/hold the wing tip rib in position and drill it
with the aileron in place.
-Clay
PS.. DO NOT make a Both position on the fuel valve. A
leaky cap and full fuel on one side can suck the
opposite tank dry in nothing flat.
--- Harold Kovac wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I did encounter this, I slit the wingtip TE and part
> way up the
> outside...maybe about 1/3 from the TE, then
> epoxy/floxed the TE and laid up
> FG cloth on the inside of the slit in the 1/3 part
> of the tip...it
> worked...just a lot of extra work and
> sanding/filling.
> Harold Kovac, filling the rivet dimples on both
> wings, then the Fuse
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jib Ray" <jib(at)interwoof.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: wing tip trailing edge alignment
>
>
>
> >
> > The trailing edges of my wing tips are about .3
> inches lower then the
> > trailing edges of the ailerons. I adjusted the
> aileron positions using the
> > fixture that uses the key tooling holes in the
> outer wing rib. The
> ailerons
> > align okay with the flaps in their full up
> position.
> >
> > Has anyone else encountered this?
> >
> > Jib Ray
> >
> >
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Karmy <andy(at)karmy.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder wiring question |
I drilled a hole between the lowest 2 steel hinge attach brackets, on
the far right side (looking from the rear). Then wrapped the wire with
spiral wrap and ran them through. From there I simply dropped them into
the lower fiberglass part on the rudder and ran them back. I put a
connector on all wires with about a 4" pigtail on the light fixture so
I can remove the light, disconnect the wires, then pull the wire bundle
out the front of the rudder to remove it. The wires really don't flex
much with rudder movement.
- Andy Karmy
andy(at)karmy.com
On Aug 23, 2004, at 2:28 PM, Bob Smith wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who elected to put a marker light/strobe on the rudder
> (mounted in the lower fiberglass faring), how did you run the wire?
> Seems
> that getting the wire out of the fuselage and into the rudder,
> including the
> necessary flexing, is a bit of a problem. I want to avoid having it
> chafe
> or break from flexing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Smith
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | Both Tanks & Dzus fasteners |
I used the skybolt kit in my RV8A. I've been flying over 2 years and have
had no cracking. There is some bowing between the ones across the top only
while flying from air pressure changes. It is very easy and fast to remove
and replace the cowling. I'm going to do it again on my RV9A, but will use
camlocs from Spruce because the skybolt kit is so expensive. I do like their
template and connector tools, though.
Wayne
Danville, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mary-Ann King <mamrking(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE remove from service: |
My Name is Mike King and My e mail address is mamrking(at)earthling.net please remove
me
from you service. I have completed my rv9 and no longer wish to get the service
thank
you. Mike King
R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, Calif |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
Greetings:
Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area.
Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa
Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to
help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does
not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is
all composite builders. At the rate I am making
progress it will take me 5 life times to complete
!!!!!
Thanks,
Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
, ,
,
1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K.Wilson" <fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Eggenfellner engine package on Ebay |
For those who might be interested in an Eggenfellner firewall forward engine package
for the RV9A I've put one up for bid on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2487928910
If the link doesn't work try: Ebay motors/parts&accessories/aviation parts/engines
Thanks, Kelly Wilson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
I believe that the indicator lights you are referring to reference the
requirement that for a GPS to be IFR certified you have to have an
indicator displaying what is driving the CDI. This is an effort to make
sure you dont think your doing something like following a localizer
when in reality the instrument is being driven by the GPS.
-- John
-----Original Message-----
Hi Guys,
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
---
________________________________________________________________________________
Yesterday, after waiting seven weeks for an inspection and another twelve
days for the inspector to finish the paperwork, RV9A N61DX took to the air.
Aside from high cylinder temps, everything went well. This is a nice
airplane!
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Both Tanks & Dzus fasteners |
Wayne What is the part number of those fastners from spruce and do they install
the same way as the skybolts. Do you have any pictures on you installations.
Tad Sargent RV7A
"Wayne Williams" wrote:
>
>I used the skybolt kit in my RV8A. I've been flying over 2 years and have
>had no cracking. There is some bowing between the ones across the top only
>while flying from air pressure changes. It is very easy and fast to remove
>and replace the cowling. I'm going to do it again on my RV9A, but will use
>camlocs from Spruce because the skybolt kit is so expensive. I do like their
>template and connector tools, though.
>
>Wayne
>Danville, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Hey Dale congratulations. Hope you locate cooling solution and enjoy your
airplane.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone point me to a cad 3 view drawing of a RV9A?
Thanks
peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | Camlocs for the cowl |
See if this helps:
SK-OS CLocR Plush Flush Stainless Steel Grommet $2.21
R4G Retainer Ring for CLocR $0.22
SK4002-1S S/S SLOTTED CLOCR $2.79
SK245-4 CLocR Floating Aluminum Receptacle ADJ
I also used this reference: http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm#Cowl%20fasteners
Wayne
(Thanks, Randy, for an excellent web site.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Joosten, Craig" <CJoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net> |
Subject: Re: RV9-List: First flight
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 08:03:10 -0400
Congratulations Dale, it is a beautiful plane!
Craig
http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">
Congratulations
Dale, it is a beautiful plane!
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Dale - how high were the temps? Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Larsen
Subject: RV9-List: First flight
Yesterday, after waiting seven weeks for an inspection and another twelve
days for the inspector to finish the paperwork, RV9A N61DX took to the air.
Aside from high cylinder temps, everything went well. This is a nice
airplane!
Dale
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
As I built the wings I diligently followed Van's directions and drilled
the hole for the pitot tube when they called for it. Now, before I
close up the wings I realized I would like to install the Dynon EFIS
unit along with their pitot tube so I can also have an AOA indicator.
The problem is that the bracket I bought to hold the pitot tube doesn't
cover the hole I have already drilled for the Van's tube.
What do you suggest I do?
A) Leave the hole open?
B) Drill out the two adjacent rivets and put a small plate behind the
spar web flange to cover the hole and put move the Pitot tube down?
C) Return the Dynon pitot tube, due w/o the AOA, and just use the Dynon
EFIS with the Van's pitot?
Thanks for the help.
Bill
RV-9
Wings (Fuselage on order)
SN: 90737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube hole |
I had exactly the same dilemma, I used the plate and a nice(almost) round
piece to fill the drill hole. it worked out OK
Harold Kovac -90373 finishing the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Insurance for non aviation engined RV's |
Has anybody been through the dilemma of researching the viability of insuring an
RV9A with a non Van's approved engine? Specifically the Egenfellner Subaru.
So far Insurer's either will not write period, or the cost is prohibitive.
Any comments will be welcome but keep in mind there are pro's and con's for both.
Doing the Ben Franklin approach is an interesting study.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for non aviation engined RV's |
Go to the Eggenfellner site, http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/ (FAQ page)
and/or the subaruaircraft(at)yahoo.com group, and you'll find there hasn't been
a problem insuring those firewall forward complete engines.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Goad" <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Insurance for non aviation engined RV's
>
> Has anybody been through the dilemma of researching the viability of
insuring an RV9A with a non Van's approved engine? Specifically the
Egenfellner Subaru. So far Insurer's either will not write period, or the
cost is prohibitive.
> Any comments will be welcome but keep in mind there are pro's and con's
for both. Doing the Ben Franklin approach is an interesting study.
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube hole |
Bill, to fill the old pitot tube hole, I epoxied a sheet of Alclad on
the backside. After curing, I filled the indentation with fiberglass,
and after curing that, I finished it with Superfill.
Here is a hint: when you install the Gretz mount, DO NOT rivet it to the
wing skin until after riveting on the skin.
Also, my Dynon did not go deep enough into the Gretz to get sufficient
edge clearance for the screws that hold on the Dynon. I had to do some
hand filing to get the two to mate.
Leland
Cleaning up the wiring
"As I built the wings I diligently followed Van's directions and drilled
the hole for the pitot tube when they called for it. Now, before I
close up the wings I realized I would like to install the Dynon EFIS
unit along with their pitot tube so I can also have an AOA indicator.
The problem is that the bracket I bought to hold the pitot tube doesn't
cover the hole I have already drilled for the Van's tube.
What do you suggest I do?
A) Leave the hole open?
B) Drill out the two adjacent rivets and put a small plate behind the
spar web flange to cover the hole and put move the Pitot tube down?
C) Return the Dynon pitot tube, due w/o the AOA, and just use the Dynon
EFIS with the Van's pitot?"
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv3-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat |
1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Scrumptous breakfast both Saturday & Sunday will be served right at
Van's--pancakes, eggs, ham, sausage, bacon, coffee & orange juice. And
lunch on Saturday, burgers, corn on the cob.
Served by EAA Chapter 902. Don't miss out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for non aviation engined RV's |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
08/30/2004 03:30:38 PM,
Serialize complete at 08/30/2004 03:30:38 PM
Nigel,
Contact Falcon Insurance. They cover my Egg/ RV-9A with little or no
penalty for the engine combo. They consider it a proven package like a
Lycoming.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N9159S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Template for landing gear sockets |
Help. Instructions on page 8-8 cal out the use of the template located
on DWG 34 to locate the hole for the landing gear sockets & brake lines
in the F 972 lower skin. I can not find this template. I either don't
see it or it's not there. I really don't see how the gear would affect
the F 972 lower skin.
This is for a tail dragger.
Thanks,
Roger Ping 90869
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Template for landing gear sockets |
Roger,
That would be for nosewheel planes.. I don't think it applies to your
taildragger. (If you look at drawing 34A, you'll see the template but
again, it's for nosewheel planes)
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Template for landing gear sockets |
Hi Roger,
The landing gear on your tail dragger mount in the engine mount. They
require you to trim out a slight amount on the lower firewall flange a small cut
out in the lower engine cowl. When you get to that point it will be quite
obvious where and how much to cut.
In the lower engine cowl I would suggest you cut out just enough for
clearance at first. After you have installed gear leg fairings and made your
intersection fairings you can enlarge the cut outs in the cowl a bit more (closer
to
the edge of intersection fairing) which will make removing engine a great deal
easier.
Good Luck.
Dennis Thomas
RV9, on the way to the Homecoming at Aurora.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Template for landing gear sockets |
what is the contact information for fairings, etc?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Hi Roger,
> The landing gear on your tail dragger mount in the engine mount. They
> require you to trim out a slight amount on the lower firewall flange a small
> cut
> out in the lower engine cowl. When you get to that point it will be quite
> obvious where and how much to cut.
> In the lower engine cowl I would suggest you cut out just enough for
> clearance at first. After you have installed gear leg fairings and made your
> intersection fairings you can enlarge the cut outs in the cowl a bit more
> (closer to
> the edge of intersection fairing) which will make removing engine a great deal
> easier.
> Good Luck.
>
> Dennis Thomas
> RV9, on the way to the Homecoming at Aurora.
>
>
>
>
>
>
what is the contact information for fairings, etc?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773(at)aol.com
Hi Roger,
The landing gear on your tail dragger mount in the engine mount. They
require you to trim out a slight amount on the lower firewall flange a small
cut
out in the lower engine cowl. When you get to that point it will be quite
obvious where and how much to cut.
In the lower engine cowl I would suggest you cut out just enough for
clearance at first. After you have installed gear leg fairings and made your
intersection fairings you can enlarge the cut outs in the cowl a bit more
(closer to
the edge of intersection fairing) which will make removing engine a great deal
easier.
Good Luck.
Dennis Thomas
RV9, on the way to the
Homecoming at Aurora.
rowse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
Fairings-Etc.
Bob Snedaker
Shop Phone: 623/536-0951
Cell Phone: 623/203-9795
email: bob@fairings-etc.com
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New product announcement: affordable VG's |
rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com, rveurope-list(at)matronics.com,
rvsoutheast-list(at)matronics.com, sailplane-list(at)matronics.com,
seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com,
smithmini-list(at)matronics.com
Hey folks,
I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new
aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor"
of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything
that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product
is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot,
and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about
a great new product.
I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :)
Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
Joa Harrison
The VG Guy
www.landshorter.com
1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mcbride" <billmcbride(at)earthlink.net> |
Dear Friends, My new email address is: BMcB(at)sbcglobal.net. Hope to hear from
you all real soon.
Bill McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N369TM is flying in central Missouri |
| From: | "McIntosh, Todd" <McIntoshT(at)health.missouri.edu> |
After 3 years and 2 months, N369TM (SN 90395) is flying. Without paint
except for the internal surfaces which received a coat of PPG Epoxy
primer, but with a full interior from Flight Line Interiors and a basic
IFR panel, empty weight came in at 1070. It is powered by a new
Aerosport O-320 with a new Sensenich prop pitched as recommended by
Vans. After a little over 4 hours on its first couple of flights
yesterday I am extremely pleased (grinning) and happy to say that it
flies true and will not need any trim tabs or adjustments. Only a couple
of squawks; I need to tighten the swivel in the nose wheel slightly and
adjust the engine idle speed since it is a little low. No firm
performance numbers at this point but I will post them as I get things
calibrated (though it is far better than the C-150 I have been
sharing!).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N369TM is flying in central Missouri |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
09/21/2004 03:19:06 PM,
Serialize complete at 09/21/2004 03:19:06 PM
Todd,
Congratulations on joining the club. Where are you flying out of? Enjoy
the fruits of your labors now.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL 90288
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | N369TM is flying in central Missouri |
congratulations. Hope you have a lot of blue skies days to enjoy your -9A.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Moak" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | N369TM is flying in central Missouri |
Great!!! Congratulations
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McIntosh, Todd
Subject: RV9-List: N369TM is flying in central Missouri
After 3 years and 2 months, N369TM (SN 90395) is flying. Without paint
except for the internal surfaces which received a coat of PPG Epoxy
primer, but with a full interior from Flight Line Interiors and a basic
IFR panel, empty weight came in at 1070. It is powered by a new
Aerosport O-320 with a new Sensenich prop pitched as recommended by
Vans. After a little over 4 hours on its first couple of flights
yesterday I am extremely pleased (grinning) and happy to say that it
flies true and will not need any trim tabs or adjustments. Only a couple
of squawks; I need to tighten the swivel in the nose wheel slightly and
adjust the engine idle speed since it is a little low. No firm
performance numbers at this point but I will post them as I get things
calibrated (though it is far better than the C-150 I have been
sharing!).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Rectangular Hole Cutout on the Prepunched Panel |
I have decided not to use at this time the rectangular hole in the
prepunched panel. I need to buy or make a black hole cover.
It is a standard cutout - 2.75 by 6.25. I have looked in all my catalogues
and can find nothing. Does anyone know a source for hole covers for this
standard width hole? I really don't want to fabricate this out of a sheet
of aluminum. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rectangular Hole Cutout on the Prepunched Panel |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
09/22/2004 02:56:38 PM,
Serialize complete at 09/22/2004 02:56:38 PM
Ernest,
Contact an avionics shop. They should have them or know who does.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
Received-SPF: none (mail.corridor.net: domain of rv6(at)lockhart.net does not
designate any permitted senders)
| From: | "TED JONES" <rv6(at)LOCKHART.NET> |
| Subject: | ANOTHER RV9A FLYING |
FIRST FLIGHT JUNE I 2004.''WOW'' WHAT AN AIRPLANE.
Stats
ENGINE AEROSPORTS 0-360
PROP SENSENCH 72 /85
PANEL IFR WITH STEAM GAUGES
Weight 1059# PAINTED
Climb 2000fpm
Cruise 175 MPH INDICATED @8500 ft.
Stall full flap 45 mph
FUEL BURN 8 GPH AT CRUISE
I have built and flown 5 other RV6-a and this is by far the finest airplane I have
ever flown of this type. Hope all of you have the same experience that I
have.
Blue Skies and safe flying to all
Ted F. Jones
N669TJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | ANOTHER RV9A FLYING |
Congrats TED JONES
I hope you and your airplane have a lot of time of full pleasure.
> FIRST FLIGHT JUNE I 2004.''WOW'' WHAT AN AIRPLANE.
Is there some modifications in the engine compartiment in use a Lyco 360 instead
of Lyco
320?
We have a friend here in Brasil thinking about to use a 360 engine in a -9A.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
-9A QB
Waiting for the kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G B <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ANOTHER RV9A FLYING |
Ted,
I thought a 320 was as big as you were supposed to put on
a 9!!??
Glen Bankston
RV-9A wings
TED JONES wrote:
>
>FIRST FLIGHT JUNE I 2004.''WOW'' WHAT AN AIRPLANE.
>Stats
>ENGINE AEROSPORTS 0-360
>PROP SENSENCH 72 /85
>PANEL IFR WITH STEAM GAUGES
>Weight 1059# PAINTED
>Climb 2000fpm
>Cruise 175 MPH INDICATED @8500 ft.
>Stall full flap 45 mph
>FUEL BURN 8 GPH AT CRUISE
>I have built and flown 5 other RV6-a and this is by far the finest airplane I
have ever flown of this type. Hope all of you have the same experience that I
have.
>
>Blue Skies and safe flying to all
>
>Ted F. Jones
>N669TJ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANOTHER RV9A FLYING |
It's called a Super 9
GZ
G B wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> I thought a 320 was as big as you were supposed to put on
> a 9!!??
>
> Glen Bankston
> RV-9A wings
>
>
> TED JONES wrote:
>
>
>>
>>FIRST FLIGHT JUNE I 2004.''WOW'' WHAT AN AIRPLANE.
>>Stats
>>ENGINE AEROSPORTS 0-360
>>PROP SENSENCH 72 /85
>>PANEL IFR WITH STEAM GAUGES
>>Weight 1059# PAINTED
>>Climb 2000fpm
>>Cruise 175 MPH INDICATED @8500 ft.
>>Stall full flap 45 mph
>>FUEL BURN 8 GPH AT CRUISE
>>I have built and flown 5 other RV6-a and this is by far the finest airplane I
have ever flown of this type. Hope all of you have the same experience that
I have.
>>
>>Blue Skies and safe flying to all
>>
>>Ted F. Jones
>>N669TJ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Gresli" <FlyRV9A(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air |
RV-9A Group,
I just picked up my Preview Plans and some videos the other day from Van's.
Where can I find information on deciding on a canopy configuration. I'm a long
way from needing to decide, but I'm curious. Slider vs Tip-up.
I've only had one ride in the Van's demo -9A, with the slider. I use to fly a
Grumman AA-5 which also had a sliding canopy. It is very nice on the ground on
hot days. However, the visibility in the tip-up looks incredible.
What are the pros and cons of each?
Also, has anybody on the list gone to the 1-day Synergy Air metalworking class?
I live near Portland, Oregon, so Eugene is not very far.
Has anybody done the 6-day quick-build empenage class at Synergy? Is it worth
the $$$$?
Thanks,
Bob Gresli
Hillsboro OR (HIO)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air |
Bob,
I did the Synergy Air course last year and it was very good. You will
learn a lot. Plan for a very loooong day if you commute, starting the
class at 8 & ending around 6. Closer to home there is the Henry Gorgas
course, which is a 2 day thing & it is over on the west side
somewhere. Henry gets good reviews, also.
Slider vs. tip up: On the RV List the consensus seems to be the work
involved is about equal in terms of time and difficulty. The big
advantages of the tip up as I recall is instrument access and unobstructed
visibility, while the slider has the cool factor. I believe the slider is
safer if the plane goes on it's back because of the location of the roll
bar--draw a straight line from the nose to the tip of the tail and look at
where the roll bar is in relation to your head & you'll see what I
mean. On the other hand, Mike Robertson of the FAA says there is no
difference. Regarding instrument access, the tip up advantage can be
negated a little by using a modular panel in the slider. And at Van's
homecoming a couple years ago, I saw a tip up left open and there seemed to
be a lot of stress on the thing when a breeze came up. No problem, of
course, with the slider.
Richard Scott
At 12:46 PM 9/25/2004, you wrote:
>
>RV-9A Group,
>
>I just picked up my Preview Plans and some videos the other day from Van's.
>
>Where can I find information on deciding on a canopy configuration. I'm a
>long way from needing to decide, but I'm curious. Slider vs Tip-up.
>
>I've only had one ride in the Van's demo -9A, with the slider. I use to
>fly a Grumman AA-5 which also had a sliding canopy. It is very nice on
>the ground on hot days. However, the visibility in the tip-up looks
>incredible.
>
>What are the pros and cons of each?
>
>Also, has anybody on the list gone to the 1-day Synergy Air metalworking
>class? I live near Portland, Oregon, so Eugene is not very far.
>
>Has anybody done the 6-day quick-build empenage class at Synergy? Is it
>worth the $$$$?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Gresli
>Hillsboro OR (HIO)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noah Forden" <noahforden(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider |
Greetings Bob-
Just wanted to let you know that you may not have to choose between a slider and a canopy! I saw a guy at OSH this year who is offering a combination slider / tip up canopy. It's pretty slick, so I grabbed one of his brochures. His website is www.aircraftextras.com.
Noah Forden
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Guys,
I chose the slider because I wanted to be able to utilize the
baggage area easier. If you use the slider canopy and use the "tip up"
modification that "aircraftextras.com" has for sale, you can use the
baggage area with ease. I saw it at Oshkosh and watched the designer
open and close the canopy with ease. The access to the baggage area to
me is important as my wife and I will be using out "9" for cross
countrys. The original slider makes for a tight loading arrangement and
the tip up canopy the same. Just a thought and a consideration.
Jim Nelson
N599RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david wilson" <davidw(at)omne.uk.net> |
| Subject: | Diesel engines in RV9 |
Hi
Anyone any experience of fitting diesels in 9's and the performance that resulted?
Considering the Wilksch 120 engine. Cost of AVGAS in the UK is now extortionate
so a diesel equipped 9 appears to be the answer.
David Wilson
Ready to order kit with 3 friends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vicwj(at)earthlink.net" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air |
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Richard Scott rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 18:26:04 -0700
List, Would someone with a tip-up comment on taxing with the canopy
slightly open for venilation. Perhaps using a saftey strap to keep it
from flying up!
Vic
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air
Bob,
I did the Synergy Air course last year and it was very good. You will
learn a lot. Plan for a very loooong day if you commute, starting the
class at 8 & ending around 6. Closer to home there is the Henry Gorgas
course, which is a 2 day thing & it is over on the west side
somewhere. Henry gets good reviews, also.
Slider vs. tip up: On the RV List the consensus seems to be the work
involved is about equal in terms of time and difficulty. The big
advantages of the tip up as I recall is instrument access and unobstructed
visibility, while the slider has the cool factor. I believe the slider is
safer if the plane goes on it's back because of the location of the roll
bar--draw a straight line from the nose to the tip of the tail and look at
where the roll bar is in relation to your head & you'll see what I
mean. On the other hand, Mike Robertson of the FAA says there is no
difference. Regarding instrument access, the tip up advantage can be
negated a little by using a modular panel in the slider. And at Van's
homecoming a couple years ago, I saw a tip up left open and there seemed to
be a lot of stress on the thing when a breeze came up. No problem, of
course, with the slider.
Richard Scott
At 12:46 PM 9/25/2004, you wrote:
>
>RV-9A Group,
>
>I just picked up my Preview Plans and some videos the other day from Van's.
>
>Where can I find information on deciding on a canopy configuration. I'm a
>long way from needing to decide, but I'm curious. Slider vs Tip-up.
>
>I've only had one ride in the Van's demo -9A, with the slider. I use to
>fly a Grumman AA-5 which also had a sliding canopy. It is very nice on
>the ground on hot days. However, the visibility in the tip-up looks
>incredible.
>
>What are the pros and cons of each?
>
>Also, has anybody on the list gone to the 1-day Synergy Air metalworking
>class? I live near Portland, Oregon, so Eugene is not very far.
>
>Has anybody done the 6-day quick-build empenage class at Synergy? Is it
>worth the $$$$?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Gresli
>Hillsboro OR (HIO)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi everyone: The avgs 100LL in Brasil costs R$4.60/liter, it means US$6.14/gal.
Several airplanes owners are changing the carbs and/or fuel injection system to
burn
alcohol RS$1,6/liter <==> US$2.13/gal. There isnt alcohol in airports gas stations,
only out of airport gas stations. The problem is some airport management dont agree
to
bring alcohol from a gas station in some bulks and fill up the tanks. It could
be done
in airclubs without problem. Lycos engines could burn 87 octanes fuel. We call
it "avcar". Avcar costs R$2,00/liter <==> US$2.67/gal. The problem of bringing
fuel from
out of airport gas station is the same.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
-9A QB
waiting for the kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider |
Does that give you the best or worst of both worlds? Extra weight and
complexity means lower useful load and longer build time. :(
I selected the tip-up because of the unobstructed view it offers.
Still, I think the slider wins major "cool" points.
Bill R.
SN: 90737
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noah Forden
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider
Greetings Bob-
Just wanted to let you know that you may not have to choose between a
slider and a canopy! I saw a guy at OSH this year who is offering a
combination slider / tip up canopy. It's pretty slick, so I grabbed one
of his brochures. His website is www.aircraftextras.com.
Noah Forden
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
Interesting thought. I believe the Germans tried that in WWII but I'm
not sure how successful it was.
As I understand it, alcohol absorbs water, thus it isn't considered a
good option for aircraft use. In the US, aircraft with auto fuel STC's
can't run auto fuel with alcohol (Gasahol is what we call it up here.)
because of the water absorption issue.
I would think installing a diesel or auto engine conversion would be a
better option for you.
Bill Repucci
RV-9
SN: 90737
Waiting for the fuselage kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: RV9-List: fuel
Hi everyone: The avgs 100LL in Brasil costs R$4.60/liter, it means
US$6.14/gal.
Several airplanes owners are changing the carbs and/or fuel injection
system to burn
alcohol RS$1,6/liter <==> US$2.13/gal. There isnt alcohol in airports
gas stations,
only out of airport gas stations. The problem is some airport management
dont agree to
bring alcohol from a gas station in some bulks and fill up the tanks. It
could be done
in airclubs without problem. Lycos engines could burn 87 octanes fuel.
We call
it "avcar". Avcar costs R$2,00/liter <==> US$2.67/gal. The problem of
bringing fuel from
out of airport gas station is the same.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
-9A QB
waiting for the kit.
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Diesel engines in RV9 |
Better yet, has anyone ever installed a radial engine on an RV-6, -7, or
-9? I think it would look something like a Spartan Exec and sound just
as good as the Exec looks.
Bill R.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of david wilson
Subject: RV9-List: Diesel engines in RV9
Hi
Anyone any experience of fitting diesels in 9's and the performance that
resulted? Considering the Wilksch 120 engine. Cost of AVGAS in the UK
is now extortionate so a diesel equipped 9 appears to be the answer.
David Wilson
Ready to order kit with 3 friends
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi Bill:
Thats the best of using alcohol fuel. They dont need to drain the tanks :-)). Some
papers show the maximum water absorption is 3% of the total volume. No problem
burnning
it. The major problem in using alcohol is the consuption. It is bigger than avgas
consuption. If the compression of the engine is raised by machinning the cilinders
the
maximum power output will be raised too.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
-9A QB
waiting for the kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Primer-I am finally out of the SW wash primer |
Fellow builders,
I just finished primering the wing skins and I am finally out of the SW wash primer.
I am very disappointed in this product and do not recommend it.
Years ago I used a wash primer similar to the SW on my RV-4 with very little problems,
however the SW was a real nightmare. My main issue is spitting of chunks
of semi congealed primer on the surface and runs. I mixed the primer per
the directions, tried different pressures and different guns, but still similar
results. I live in Arizona and the climate is a bit dry which may have contributed.
The inside of my wing skins are speckled with primer, but know one will
see this.
Now that I am finished primering all my wing components I will be using the AKZO
primer on the fuselage. It may be more of a little hassle to set up, but the
results appear so much more consistent then the SW primer.
Paul
RV-4/RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy: Tip-up vs Slider/Synergy Air |
Mine is a tip up and I'm now at 125 hours. I always leave it unlocked and
partially open on the ground. On the ground it gets very warm if left closed
but you can release the latch and lift it up and prop it open with the lifting
handle rotated to hold it up. Works out fine. It doesn't need to be held
down. I'm told that if you forget to latch it before take off it just lifts up
a
bit and cannot be closed or opened further before you land and close it.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
I had the same problem the first time I used the SW wash primer. Another
RV builder solved my problem. The first thing you have to do is stir the
paint with a drill motor long enough to completely mix the paint. The
second is to mix the paint one part paint to two parts activator instead
of one to one and a half. After I did that it works great and sticks
like concrete. After I mixed the paint the first time it doesn't take
but a minute to remix it later when you get ready to paint again, but it
is necessary to stir the paint very well. I've used PPG 271 epoxy primer
over the Sherwin Williams wash primer and then top coated and had no
problem with adhesion or reactions.
Jim Wright
RV-9A 90919
Empennage finished working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
>Listers,
This apparently was sent directly to me by mistake from a Bryan
Carr. Relevant to the slider vs. tip-up discussion.
Richard Scott
>Had a friend go into the water after an engine failure.
>He had a tip up.
>The aircraft flipped over when the gear hit.
>He couldn't get the canopy open.
>He and his passenger drowned.
>Get a slider.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Diesel engines in RV9 |
> David Wilson
> Ready to order kit with 3 friends
I didn't know this was an option back when I ordered my kit #59. They
just started calling at all hours and showing up at the workshop. Now that
I'm flying, there's even more of them! (sorry, I couldn't resist ;
)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nosewheel shimmy |
All,
I have a problem with my 9-A nosegear. On landing, there is a shimmy in the
vertical direction. This is not noticable to the pilot, but observers have
commented about it.
Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
I have a feeling my nose gear is doing this to some
degree, although I can't feel anything. I always keep
the nose gear off the ground as long as possible on
rollout.
My hypothesis is that the nose wheel doesn't roll
freely all the way around... there is a point in the
rotation with more resistance that causes the whole
gear to move back and forth. My nose wheel doesn't
"spin" freely when I take the weight off of it.
Should it?
--clay
--- Dale Larsen <slickrock@been-there.com> wrote:
> <slickrock@been-there.com>
>
> All,
>
> I have a problem with my 9-A nosegear. On landing,
> there is a shimmy in the
> vertical direction. This is not noticable to the
> pilot, but observers have
> commented about it.
>
> Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dale
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
First, consider how the nose gear is designed. What other way is it going
to move? Secondly, make sure your onlookers are not confusing wheel pant
movement with gear leg movement. If you don't feel it, chances are its
just some small amount of wheel pant movement. Finally, make sure your
nose gear leg fits snugly into the engine mount receptacle. If there is
play between the gear leg and tube, you can wrap a feeler gauge blade (find
the one that fits best with weight off the wheel) around the gear leg to
take up the slack and secure it with a bit of silicone sealer around the
leg.
Regarding free turning nose wheels. This bugs the crap outta me. Yes our
wheels should spin freely without sticky spots. But the design of the
Cleveland wheel is such that you cannot tighten the front axle without
causing bearings to bind. It should have had a machined spacer and shims
or used straight bearings instead of tapered bearings. Bogus design...
Because we cannot tighten the front axle bolt, and the axle bolt is the
primary mounting method for the wheel pant, this leads to shimmying wheel
pants, binding bearings, and scored nose gear forks. I just had a nose
wheel go flat (just before takeoff fortunately) and when I removed the
wheel, there was clear evidence that the spacers were spinning against the
nose fork and on the axle bolt. Not good. I know others have drilled and
tapped small screws to prevent the spacers from spinning, but the real fix
would be a different front wheel.
In short,,, don't worry about shimmy if you don't feel it, but keep an eye
on your front axle bolt.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
Gary,
I'm flying without pants (on the gear that is...) and the gear fits snugly
in the socket. I have watched it shimmy myself, when my buddy landed it.
It looks like the front wheel is out of round (which it isn't). It moves 1
to 1-1/2 inches at about a 3 Hz rate.
Maybe the wheel is out of balance?
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nosewheel shimmy
>
>
> First, consider how the nose gear is designed. What other way is it
going
> to move? Secondly, make sure your onlookers are not confusing wheel pant
> movement with gear leg movement. If you don't feel it, chances are its
> just some small amount of wheel pant movement. Finally, make sure your
> nose gear leg fits snugly into the engine mount receptacle. If there is
> play between the gear leg and tube, you can wrap a feeler gauge blade
(find
> the one that fits best with weight off the wheel) around the gear leg to
> take up the slack and secure it with a bit of silicone sealer around the
> leg.
>
> Regarding free turning nose wheels. This bugs the crap outta me. Yes
our
> wheels should spin freely without sticky spots. But the design of the
> Cleveland wheel is such that you cannot tighten the front axle without
> causing bearings to bind. It should have had a machined spacer and shims
> or used straight bearings instead of tapered bearings. Bogus design...
> Because we cannot tighten the front axle bolt, and the axle bolt is the
> primary mounting method for the wheel pant, this leads to shimmying wheel
> pants, binding bearings, and scored nose gear forks. I just had a nose
> wheel go flat (just before takeoff fortunately) and when I removed the
> wheel, there was clear evidence that the spacers were spinning against the
> nose fork and on the axle bolt. Not good. I know others have drilled and
> tapped small screws to prevent the spacers from spinning, but the real fix
> would be a different front wheel.
>
> In short,,, don't worry about shimmy if you don't feel it, but keep an
eye
> on your front axle bolt.
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
Hey Guys, you solve this problem easily by replacing the thing with a tail
wheel.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9 126 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nosewheel shimmy |
Yelp but why go backwards????
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nosewheel shimmy
Hey Guys, you solve this problem easily by replacing the thing with a tail
wheel.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9 126 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
"RV Matronics List"
| Subject: | Windshield Frame |
on mail5
I visited a local builder who had fabricated an aluminum panel at the base of the
windshield and along the canopy frame on both an RV-6A and -7A. It looked
very nice and neat and he said he did it because he didn't like fiberglass (I
understand that!). It was screwed in place to both the cowl and the screen and
sealed with silicone. Has anybody else done this? I'm considering doing this
because of the neat appearance and also I think replacing a cracked screen
would be infinitely easier. Any thoughts out there in RV Land?
Doug Fischer
90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
I've had the same problem from time to time. Once, when I landed, the nose
gear shadow was just in front of the wing and I could see the gear was
moving fore and aft. When it does this I can feel some vibration. At first
I thought it started after the nose gear first touched but now it's clear it
starts when the mains touch and the nose wheel is still off the ground. It
seems to be affected by tire pressure and axel bolt tightness but I don't
see why since it starts before the nose wheel touches. So now I just keep
the nose gear off the ground as long as possible. Why, yesterday, I kept it
off until I got out and tied it down on the ramp!
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
> It moves 1 to 1-1/2 inches at about a 3 Hz rate.
> Maybe the wheel is out of balance?
> Dale
Wow, and you say you can't feel this?!? I suppose it is possible that
your tube is folded or pinched inside the tire, causing major imbalance.
If you think this is the case, you should immediately take the wheel apart
and check. Trust me, you don't want to experience a flat tire. Some
degree of bouncing is to be expected with a spring type nose gear leg, but
that's way more than I have seen. Check your axle bolt tension while
you're at it and make sure your wheel is rotating freely. Also check your
nose fork breakout tension. If it is too loose the wheel can wobble
violently from side to side just as it touches the pavement. Use a
fish-scale to actually set it per Vans instructions. The fork must have a
good bit of tension and not just swivel freely. If you can't find the
culprit, I would give Vans a call and see if they have any further clues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield Frame |
I know an RV6 builder who used sheet metal on the front of his
windscreen for the same reason. He intends to redo it the future but it
looks great to me. This guy is a real perfectionist, the best technician
at a government Lab, and a superb craftsman. It is also the third plane
he built. I would try it as I had such a bear of a time with the slider
canopy skirts that I finally made those out of fiberglass.
Leland in Kalifornia
Almost ready to install the windscreen
"I visited a local builder who had fabricated an aluminum panel at the
base of the windshield and along the canopy frame on both an RV-6A and
-7A. It lookedvery nice and neat and he said he did it because he didn't
like fiberglass (Iunderstand that!). It was screwed in place to both the
cowl and the screen andsealed with silicone. Has anybody else done this?
I'm considering doing thisbecause of the neat appearance and also I
think replacing a cracked screen would be infinitely easier. Any
thoughts out there in RV Land?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
Axle bolt tension is good, breakout tension is adjusted per plans with a
fish scale. Tire pressure is good, and wheel rotates freely.
On closer investigation, it only occurs at the end of the rollout, when you
start to brake hard. If you don't brake at all, it dosent shimmy. I would
think that if it were due to a balance condition that it would be
poportional to the speed of the wheel.
No shimmy on takeoff.
>
>
> > It moves 1 to 1-1/2 inches at about a 3 Hz rate.
> > Maybe the wheel is out of balance?
> > Dale
>
> Wow, and you say you can't feel this?!? I suppose it is possible that
> your tube is folded or pinched inside the tire, causing major imbalance.
> If you think this is the case, you should immediately take the wheel apart
> and check. Trust me, you don't want to experience a flat tire. Some
> degree of bouncing is to be expected with a spring type nose gear leg, but
> that's way more than I have seen. Check your axle bolt tension while
> you're at it and make sure your wheel is rotating freely. Also check your
> nose fork breakout tension. If it is too loose the wheel can wobble
> violently from side to side just as it touches the pavement. Use a
> fish-scale to actually set it per Vans instructions. The fork must have a
> good bit of tension and not just swivel freely. If you can't find the
> culprit, I would give Vans a call and see if they have any further clues.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
Is your brake rotors true ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nosewheel shimmy
>
> Axle bolt tension is good, breakout tension is adjusted per plans with a
> fish scale. Tire pressure is good, and wheel rotates freely.
>
> On closer investigation, it only occurs at the end of the rollout, when you
> start to brake hard. If you don't brake at all, it dosent shimmy. I would
> think that if it were due to a balance condition that it would be
> poportional to the speed of the wheel.
>
> No shimmy on takeoff.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
Oops, "Are" your brake rotors true ? Its been a rough morning :)
> Is your brake rotors true ?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 12:48 PM
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nosewheel shimmy
>
>
> >
> > Axle bolt tension is good, breakout tension is adjusted per plans with a
> > fish scale. Tire pressure is good, and wheel rotates freely.
> >
> > On closer investigation, it only occurs at the end of the rollout, when you
> > start to brake hard. If you don't brake at all, it dosent shimmy. I would
> > think that if it were due to a balance condition that it would be
> > poportional to the speed of the wheel.
> >
> > No shimmy on takeoff.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
> Axle bolt tension is good, breakout tension is adjusted per plans with a
> fish scale. Tire pressure is good, and wheel rotates freely.
> On closer investigation, it only occurs at the end of the rollout, when
you
> start to brake hard. If you don't brake at all, it dosent shimmy. I
would
> think that if it were due to a balance condition that it would be
> poportional to the speed of the wheel.
> No shimmy on takeoff.
OK, now it's getting strange... Have you EVER overtightened the axle
bolt? The only theory I can cook up to explain your symptoms is as
follows: If your bearings are scored or damaged, then independent
application of brakes will naturally increase the side-loads on the
bearings. If the bearings are scored or damaged in any way, this could
cause binding and wheel hop. ...boy is that a stretch, but... Anyone else
got a theory to offer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel shimmy |
At this point, you may want to verify that your nose gear leg is not bent
or installed crooked to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Laurel Mckone" <lmckone(at)xtalwind.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Shimmy |
I had the same problem, I took a piece of tubing and cut it to the propper length
so that I could tighten the nose wheel bolt and keep the spacers from turning
and still have the nose wheel turn easy. Use a piece of dowel just long enough
to hold the tubing between the spacers and slide the dowel out with the nose
wheel bolt, leaving the tubing onthe bolt between the spacers while installing
the wheel.
Laurel McKone N120LM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel shimmy |
>... and rubbing against the wheel pant
He said his wheel pants are not installed. A rubbing tire will carve it's
shape into the wheel pant opening in one or two landings, but you're right
to suspect this if the gap were very close. Somehow I think this is a
bearing issue... I have no idea what VANS was thinking to select a
double-taper bearing type wheel in this application. If the wheel were
mounted in an inflexible fork with a more reasonable adjustible axle
tension, this would work fine. But the RV nose fork is not as strong as it
looks and a simple bolt that cannot be tightened down and has no cotter pin
to secure it, is just not right. To use the same bolt to secure the wheel
pant is equally bogus. The bolt can't be tightened!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
(The following is not intended to point a finger at either Warren Gretz
or the people at Dynon, it is simply a request for information from the
RV builder community.)
Last weekend was spent cutting the left wing skin and fitting the Gretz
pitot tube mast, which is supposed to hold the Dynon pitot tube I bought
for my future EFIS system.
After cutting the wing skin, drilling holes in the ribs for the AOA
line, etc. I test fit the mast and all looked good until I slid the
pitot tube down the mast and found the pre-drilled holes in the mast
that are to hold the pitot tube in place wouldn't leave any room for
proper edge distance .
I'm currently talking to both Dynon and Warren Gretz about a solution.
BTW, both the Gretz mount and the Dynon unit seem to be top quality
items and I do expect there will be an easy resolution. (I smudged the
chrome pitot tube bracket so the flash wouldn't wash it out. The chrome
finish on the mast appears to be top notch.)
You can see a picture of what I'm talking about here:
http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/dynon%20and%20gretz.jpg
If any of you has a factory built pitot tube laying around, could you
measure the shoulder depth and send me a note? The Dynon unit is
supposed to be identical to what Cessna uses.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
SN: 90737
Finishing up the wings and waiting for the next big box.
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "923te" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: e: RV9-List:Mounting O320 |
What is the trick to installing an O320 on a dynafocal mount?
Thanks,
Ned
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e: RV9-List:Mounting O320 |
Ned,
I found it was easiest to put the engine mount on the engine, bottom
dynafocal mounts first, then top. Then mount it all to the firewall. It
takes a lot of patience and persuasion (rubber mallet) to get the last two
bolts in.
Others may have an easier method, but that's what worked for me.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List:Mounting O320
>
> What is the trick to installing an O320 on a dynafocal mount?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e: RV9-List:Mounting O320 |
Ned,
I found it was easiest to put the engine mount on the engine, bottom
dynafocal mounts first, then top. Then mount it all to the firewall. It
takes a lot of patience and persuasion (rubber mallet) to get the last two
bolts in.
Others may have an easier method, but that's what worked for me.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List:Mounting O320
>
> What is the trick to installing an O320 on a dynafocal mount?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | Long trip to Aurora-OR |
Hi everyone:
opportunity to learn some tips and see another RVs.
I must tell you that in Brasil we have only three RVs flying, may be one or two
more. I
never flew an RV in my life. Just bought it from internet adds and comments in
magazines.
Ill depart from Aracaju - Brasil, Oct, 10th, to VANs factory, Aurora-OR, by Boeing.
A
~5,000 NM trip. Just to pick up my QB and drive it to Houston-TX, another long
trip, by
Chevy 2500, from Mike.
My arrival date in Seattle, Oct,11th, 07:00 am, arrive in Portland, Oct,11th, aft,
Stay
in Aurora till Oct, 14th, aft.
Any RVs friend will be nice to meet.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
waiting for the kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: e: RV9-List:Mounting O320 |
Ned,
Due to the angle of the bolts, it is an ordeal. Go here for instructions:
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/engineh
anging.htm
I hung mine solo in about 4 hours time. Get a helper!
Good Luck,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "923te" <923te(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List:Mounting O320
>
> What is the trick to installing an O320 on a dynafocal mount?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
I had the same problem. I put a mark around the pitot about 1/8 or 3/16 from
the edge of the ground area. I used the belt sander very carefully and
extended the ground area. Looks great. However, it would be better if they
coordinated since they did recommend a gretz mount.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
That's the answer I've heard from one other. I did start with a
different mount but after seeing how the Gretz attached to the wing, I
ordered it. The other mount simply had the holes closer to the end of
the mount. That's why I'm curious about the edge distance on a factory
(certified) pitot tube.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount
I had the same problem. I put a mark around the pitot about 1/8 or 3/16
from
the edge of the ground area. I used the belt sander very carefully and
extended the ground area. Looks great. However, it would be better if
they
coordinated since they did recommend a gretz mount.
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Copperstate Fly-in and the DRDT-2 |
Fellow RV builders,
The DRDT-2 (Deep Reach Dimpling Tool) from ExperimentalAero (www.experimentalaero.com) will be at the Copperstate Fly-in (Casa Grande, AZ) www.copperstate.org . Stop by the Avery Tools booth and see the tool that makes dimpling easy, consistent, quiet, safe and less fatiguing then the standard impact c-frame dimpler.
I had hoped to have a dimpling contest between the DRDT-2 and the impact c-frame
dimpler. The Copperstate organizers don't permit noisy demonstrations that will
interfere with the other businesses in the vendor booth area. So the only
demonstrations of a deep reach dimpling tool at the Fly-in will be the DRDT-2.
The DRDT-2 will be at the Avery Tools Booth Saturday 10/9/04.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLOMHEIM(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
In a message dated 10/2/04 1:58:35 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
I'm currently talking to both Dynon and Warren Gretz about a solution.
BTW, both the Gretz mount and the Dynon unit seem to be top quality
items and I do expect there will be an easy resolution.
Bill:
Please post what the resolution to this issue turns out to be...I have a
Gretz mount already installed and I'm about to order my DYNON Pitot tube...
Thanks.
Doug Lomheim
90116
"ONCE YOU HAVE TASTED FLIGHT YOU WILL WALK THIS EARTH WITH YOUR EYES TURNED
SKYWARD. FOR THERE YOU HAVE BEEN, AND THERE YOU LONG TO RETURN"
Leonardo Da Vinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Souther Arizona RV builders? |
Fellow Southern Arizona RV builders.
I am building a RV-7A in Tucson Arizona (wings 80% complete) and I am trying to
get a list of RV builders (not owners) here in Southern Arizona. Please chime
in with the type and status of your project. You can contact me directly at
merems(at)cox.net or post directly to the newsgroup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Souther Arizona RV builders? |
Roger Evenson, Tucson. RV-9A, Finishing kit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
; ;
;
Subject: RV9-List: Souther Arizona RV builders?
>
> Fellow Southern Arizona RV builders.
>
> I am building a RV-7A in Tucson Arizona (wings 80% complete) and I am
trying to get a list of RV builders (not owners) here in Southern Arizona.
Please chime in with the type and status of your project. You can contact
me directly at merems(at)cox.net or post directly to the newsgroup.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kikideemax(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | PROSEAL SHELF LIFE |
HOWDY LISTERS.. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF PROSEAL AFTER A YEAR IN THE REFIGERATOR IS
STILL GOOD. I HAVE ONLY USED IT TWICE. I AM SAVING MYSELF FOR THE FINAL ABUSE
WITH THE TANKS. THANKS
DAVID #90079
AILERON,AND FLAPS DONE
HOWDY LISTERS.. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF PROSEAL AFTER A YEAR IN THE REFIGERATOR IS
STILL GOOD. I HAVE ONLY USED IT TWICE. I AM SAVING MYSELF FOR THE FINAL ABUSE
WITH THE TANKS. THANKS
DAVID #90079
AILERON,AND FLAPS DONE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: PROSEAL SHELF LIFE |
Hi Dave,
The catalogue, or someone says the stuff is only good for 6 months. I have a
can I've had for over 4 years and it still works fine. If your concerned you
might mix up a tiny batch and see how it sets up.
Once when doing my tanks I mixed a batch without quite enough catalyst and it
didn't set up right away but after about 3 days it was fine.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | Howard Crawford <crawfordh(at)mac.panasonic.com> |
Subject: RE: RV9-List: PROSEAL SHELF LIFE
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 10:12:45 -0400
David,
My two cents worth. I would not use outdated pro-seal in the fuel tank
application. Reason being once the tanks are
complete and you have a problem with leaks cause by the old pro-seal, the
repairs are going to be very difficult unless you install inter tank access
plates before assembly of the tanks. Pro-seal is cheap compared to the
aggregation that you will
will run into because of outdated material. Yes, pro-seal will have a longer
shelf life by being stored in the frig, but at what time is the material no
longer good? There are a lot of highly educated people that develop this
type of material, and
they say the date is the date that pro-seal shelf life has expired.
David if you have just one open container of pro seal in the frig, I can
tell you that it will not be enough sealant in that one container to do the
fuel tanks. I finished my tanks for the RV10 about 30 days ago. What I did
was purchase the premixed 3 OZ tubes which can be purchased from Vans or
from other distributors. Let me tell you that you will only be able to apply
3 oz a day which will take 4 to 5 hours to complete including clean up of
tools, tank and self. At about the three hour level the sealant is setting
up so you must plan what you want to accomplish in 3 hours. Not only do you
have fresh sealant everyday, but it is so easy to mix, stick in a calking
gun and apply as needed. I used about 20 oz of sealant per tank, and about
half of that was waste.
I would use the old Pro-seal on other sealant jobs that do not have the
importance that the fuel tanks have.
For what is worth.
Howard
RV-10 #10017
N10XV
Fuselage assembly.
-----Original Message-----
From: kikideemax(at)comcast.net [mailto:kikideemax(at)comcast.net]
Subject: RV9-List: PROSEAL SHELF LIFE
HOWDY LISTERS.. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF PROSEAL AFTER A YEAR IN THE
REFIGERATOR IS STILL GOOD. I HAVE ONLY USED IT TWICE. I AM SAVING MYSELF
FOR THE FINAL ABUSE WITH THE TANKS. THANKS
DAVID #90079
AILERON,AND FLAPS DONE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PROSEAL SHELF LIFE |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
10/04/2004 05:29:41 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/04/2004 05:29:41 PM
Mine worked just fine. If there is any doubt, mix up a bit and put it our
to cure. If it cures out OK, then use it. As I remember it, ProSeal has a
shelf life of about a year without refrigeration and refrigeration extends
it.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
kikideemax(at)comcast.net
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/03/2004 08:38 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com (matronics e-mail)
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: PROSEAL SHELF LIFE
HOWDY LISTERS.. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF PROSEAL AFTER A YEAR IN THE
REFIGERATOR IS STILL GOOD. I HAVE ONLY USED IT TWICE. I AM SAVING MYSELF
FOR THE FINAL ABUSE WITH THE TANKS. THANKS
DAVID #90079
AILERON,AND FLAPS DONE
HOWDY LISTERS.. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF PROSEAL AFTER A YEAR IN THE
REFIGERATOR IS STILL GOOD. I HAVE ONLY USED IT TWICE. I AM SAVING MYSELF
FOR THE FINAL ABUSE WITH THE TANKS. THANKS
DAVID #90079
AILERON,AND FLAPS DONE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel shimmy |
I don't know much about RVs (well, make that nothing, actually) but Velocity
aircraft have had some of the same issue about nose wheel shimmy...with
equal resolution--marginal. However, you're issue about the shimmy
associated with braking may be a somewhat different and may be related to
harmonic vibrations through the gear legs that are caused by braking action.
The harmonic vibration can be easily mistaken for shimmy in the nose wheel.
Just an alternative thought.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Larsen
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Nosewheel shimmy
Axle bolt tension is good, breakout tension is adjusted per plans with a
fish scale. Tire pressure is good, and wheel rotates freely.
On closer investigation, it only occurs at the end of the rollout, when you
start to brake hard. If you don't brake at all, it dosent shimmy. I would
think that if it were due to a balance condition that it would be
poportional to the speed of the wheel.
No shimmy on takeoff.
>
>
> > It moves 1 to 1-1/2 inches at about a 3 Hz rate.
> > Maybe the wheel is out of balance?
> > Dale
>
> Wow, and you say you can't feel this?!? I suppose it is possible that
> your tube is folded or pinched inside the tire, causing major imbalance.
> If you think this is the case, you should immediately take the wheel apart
> and check. Trust me, you don't want to experience a flat tire. Some
> degree of bouncing is to be expected with a spring type nose gear leg, but
> that's way more than I have seen. Check your axle bolt tension while
> you're at it and make sure your wheel is rotating freely. Also check your
> nose fork breakout tension. If it is too loose the wheel can wobble
> violently from side to side just as it touches the pavement. Use a
> fish-scale to actually set it per Vans instructions. The fork must have a
> good bit of tension and not just swivel freely. If you can't find the
> culprit, I would give Vans a call and see if they have any further clues.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | intercom wiring harness |
I am puzzling through the process of wiring the intercom in my RV 9. I am using
the intercom wiring harness from Vans and haven't found a reference in the instruction
or on drawing op23 for wires rz5 and rz6.
Does anyone out there have a suggestion for me. Support at Vans is also researching
this.
John Kerr
90616
I am puzzling through the process of wiring the intercom in my RV 9. I am using
the intercom wiring harness from Vans and haven't found a reference in the instruction
or on drawing op23 for wires rz5 and rz6.
Does anyone out there have a suggestion for me. Support at Vans is also researching
this.
John Kerr
90616
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom wiring harness |
Easy way out is to call John Stark and get an approach Hub with the pre
wired cables, it becomes a plug and play devise.
----- Original Message ----- > I am puzzling through the process of wiring
the intercom in my RV 9. I am using the intercom wiring harness from Vans
and haven't found a reference in the instruction or on drawing op23 for
wires rz5 and rz6.
>
> Does anyone out there have a suggestion for me. Support at Vans is also
> researching this.
>
> John Kerr
> 90616
>
> I am puzzling through the process of wiring the intercom in my RV 9. I am
> using the intercom wiring harness from Vans and haven't found a reference
> in the instruction or on drawing op23 for wires rz5 and rz6.
>
> Does anyone out there have a suggestion for me. Support at Vans is also
> researching this.
>
> John Kerr
> 90616
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
I have now spoken to both Warren Gretz and the good people at Dynon
about the Pitot tube issue. The following is what I have learned.
Yes, the holes are close but you don't "match drill" the pitot tube to
the same hole size as the Gretz mount. You drill and tap four holes for
a #6 machine screw. This should give you enough edge clearance. The
screws should then be secured with loc-tight. (sp?) Apparently the air
load on the pitot tube, even at 200 mph, isn't that significant
according to Dynon.
The other option is to order the unfinished mount from Warren Gretz,
shorten it, and drill the holes as you see fit, then have the mount
chromed.
I'm going to try and drill the holes as Dynon suggests (next weekend)
and will let everyone know how it goes.
Bill
RV-9
SN: 90737
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Repucci
Subject: RV9-List: Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount
(The following is not intended to point a finger at either Warren Gretz
or the people at Dynon, it is simply a request for information from the
RV builder community.)
Last weekend was spent cutting the left wing skin and fitting the Gretz
pitot tube mast, which is supposed to hold the Dynon pitot tube I bought
for my future EFIS system.
After cutting the wing skin, drilling holes in the ribs for the AOA
line, etc. I test fit the mast and all looked good until I slid the
pitot tube down the mast and found the pre-drilled holes in the mast
that are to hold the pitot tube in place wouldn't leave any room for
proper edge distance .
I'm currently talking to both Dynon and Warren Gretz about a solution.
BTW, both the Gretz mount and the Dynon unit seem to be top quality
items and I do expect there will be an easy resolution. (I smudged the
chrome pitot tube bracket so the flash wouldn't wash it out. The chrome
finish on the mast appears to be top notch.)
You can see a picture of what I'm talking about here:
http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/dynon%20and%20gretz.jpg
If any of you has a factory built pitot tube laying around, could you
measure the shoulder depth and send me a note? The Dynon unit is
supposed to be identical to what Cessna uses.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
SN: 90737
Finishing up the wings and waiting for the next big box.
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
after trial fitting the wings and getting the incidence right on with a digital
level and installing the ailerons positioned with the guide bolted to the outboard
rib and the flaps aligned with the aileron, I find that the flap trailing
edge is about 1/2" below the bottom of the fuselage.
A recent item someone provided suggested that this might happen and a need to bend
the overlapping piece up to "kiss" the bottom skin. Am I missing something?
John
after trial fitting the wings and getting the incidence right on with a digital
level and installing the ailerons positioned with the guide bolted to the outboard
rib and the flaps aligned with the aileron, I find that the flap trailing
edge is about 1/2" below the bottom of the fuselage.
A recent item someone provided suggested that this might happen and a need to bend
the overlapping piece up to "kiss" the bottom skin. Am I missing something?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Photos of wind shield |
Im looking to see if any one out there my be able to email me some photos of
the wind shield attachment and finishing for a slider for an RV9. Im looking
foe the spacing and finishing and filling on the sides where the skirts meet
the front windshield.....Neil Corella
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos of wind shield |
| From: | "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
10/11/2004 11:15:55 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/11/2004 11:15:55 PM
Neil
Not sure just what you are asking.
The directions fro mounting the windshield show how to mount it to the
roll over bar and the front skin. Once you have it attached, fill in the
gap at the bottom of the windshield with something like micro balloons or
Super Poly Fill. Use two layers of electrical tape (the widest you can
get) to define the edge of the fiberglass layup.
Lay up one strip of fiberglass around the bottom of the windshield and
then lay one up over the bow that just comes down and touches the one from
the front. On the next ply, have the one on the bow come over the first
layup and butt the second one for the front of the windshield to it. That
way they will interlock at the lowest corner. They need to come down to
the edge of the top forward skin so you can maintain that line in the
finished layup. Once you have it all layed up and cured out, sand to a
nice contour with the skin. It should smooth out and blend with the front
skin so that the layup disappears into the front skin.
Lay up the glass until it is about 3/16 inch or greater thick. I did not
do this at first and had the lip that extends back over my slider canopy
get cracked several times. The thicker the layup, the more you have to
work with to make everything smooth.
If you are referring to the side skin of the canopy, it needs to come up
to the windshield and be covered over by the fiberglass layup. The side
skirts are the hardest part of the canopy for me. I went through three
sets of skins before I got one that was at least marginally acceptable
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Neilekins(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/11/2004 03:39 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Photos of wind shield
Im looking to see if any one out there my be able to email me some photos
of
the wind shield attachment and finishing for a slider for an RV9. Im
looking
foe the spacing and finishing and filling on the sides where the skirts
meet
the front windshield.....Neil Corella
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Favorite tube bending tool ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I mushed my first attempt at bending the aluminum fuel line -
tried the coiled spring tube bending kit (so called) - I must
be missing something, can't see how they could ever work.
I see several tools out there on various aircraft tool websites
that look like junior version of the electrical conduit bending
tools. Does anyone have a recommendation/favorite ?
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Favorite tube bending tool ? |
G,
I used a Superior Tools lever-type tube bender on my fuel pickup tubes with
great success. I bought it from Lowes:
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=28178-943-66575
Hope this helps.
Mike
90709 wings...deposit on fuse mailed last week
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV9-List: Favorite tube bending tool ?
I mushed my first attempt at bending the aluminum fuel line - tried the
coiled spring tube bending kit (so called) - I must be missing something,
can't see how they could ever work.
I see several tools out there on various aircraft tool websites that look
like junior version of the electrical conduit bending tools. Does anyone
have a recommendation/favorite ?
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite tube bending tool ? |
Gerry,
I use a tubing bender I purchased from Harbor Freight. It works fine.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerry Filby
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 3:53 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Favorite tube bending tool ?
I mushed my first attempt at bending the aluminum fuel line -
tried the coiled spring tube bending kit (so called) - I must
be missing something, can't see how they could ever work.
I see several tools out there on various aircraft tool websites
that look like junior version of the electrical conduit bending
tools. Does anyone have a recommendation/favorite ?
g
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Home: 415 239 4846
Cell: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube vs. Gretz mount |
Well, not really for sale, but I have an idea I'll give away.
Builders and tinkers (I know--that's repetitive) are always buying things,
which means they also have things to sell. Builders, trying to unload good
'stuff', are denigrated to sheepish posts to the List, mentioning they have
a few odd items for anyone interested. Of course, there are a few brazen
ones that make no attempt to respect the prohibition against commercialism
on the list and make half hearted attempts to camouflage their efforts--but
fool no one. Nonetheless, I've seen few people that resent being exposed to
a good buy or a good product. Why should the willing sellers need to feel
ashamed to expose willing buyers to a good deal?
The solution? How about a separate 'For Sale' List where builder can
list/unload their surplus items, rather than have to make some lame
reference to Ebay. A separate list for 'Vendors' may even have merit.
There's a few products out there I'd like to know about that may not have
the exposure of a Garmin or King, et al. The feedback the sellers/vendors
would face on the list would keep them pretty honest and help all of us sort
out the good from the bad.
Probably been tried, and abandoned already, but its worth a thought. No?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Well, not really for sale, but I have an idea I'll give away.
Builders and tinkers (I know--that's repetitive) are always buying things,
which means they also have things to sell. Builders, trying to unload good
'stuff', are denigrated to sheepish posts to the List, mentioning they have
a few odd items for anyone interested. Of course, there are a few brazen
ones that make no attempt to respect the prohibition against commercialism
on the list and make half hearted attempts to camouflage their efforts--but
fool no one. Nonetheless, I've seen few people that resent being exposed to
a good buy or a good product. Why should the willing sellers need to feel
ashamed to expose willing buyers to a good deal?
The solution? How about a separate 'For Sale' List where builder can
list/unload their surplus items, rather than have to make some lame
reference to Ebay. A separate list for 'Vendors' may even have merit.
There's a few products out there I'd like to know about that may not have
the exposure of a Garmin or King, et al. The feedback the sellers/vendors
would face on the list would keep them pretty honest and help all of us sort
out the good from the bad.
Probably been tried, and abandoned already, but its worth a thought. No?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Idea For Sale |
Hi Chuck,
I think this is a terrific idea. I wanted a new GPS and to partially fund it
I rounded up a bunch of stuff in my hangar and listed it on Ebay. It all
sold and for good prices but,,,,, just at pay off time, PayPal crashed and now
a
bunch of folks are sitting around, unable to access thier accounts. Know way
to know if they have paid or not. Money has been sent but not received and
thier is no way to talk to Ebay or PayPal.
I would support any effort you make in this direction.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "923te" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Idea For Sale |
try:
http://www.b2g3.com/boards/board.cgi?&user=vansairforce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Idea For Sale
>
> Well, not really for sale, but I have an idea I'll give away.
>
> Builders and tinkers (I know--that's repetitive) are always buying things,
> which means they also have things to sell. Builders, trying to unload
good
> 'stuff', are denigrated to sheepish posts to the List, mentioning they
have
> a few odd items for anyone interested. Of course, there are a few brazen
> ones that make no attempt to respect the prohibition against commercialism
> on the list and make half hearted attempts to camouflage their
efforts--but
> fool no one. Nonetheless, I've seen few people that resent being exposed
to
> a good buy or a good product. Why should the willing sellers need to feel
> ashamed to expose willing buyers to a good deal?
>
> The solution? How about a separate 'For Sale' List where builder can
> list/unload their surplus items, rather than have to make some lame
> reference to Ebay. A separate list for 'Vendors' may even have merit.
> There's a few products out there I'd like to know about that may not have
> the exposure of a Garmin or King, et al. The feedback the sellers/vendors
> would face on the list would keep them pretty honest and help all of us
sort
> out the good from the bad.
>
> Probably been tried, and abandoned already, but its worth a thought. No?
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photos of wind shield |
I am also about to attach the windscreen but the directions that say to
scuff the aluminum and Plexiglas with 40 to 80 grit emory cloth are
daunting. I fear that a rough grit like this will remove all of the
Alclad from the aluminum and cause the Plexiglas to crack. Has anybody
used a lesser grit paper, or even ScothBrite, and still had good
adhesion to the fiberglass?
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Photos of wind shield |
Vans reply is not to be shy about scuffing it up.. you want a really good
bond and it all gets covered up with the glass anyway so the alclad removal
is pretty much a none issue in that area.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Photos of wind shield
I am also about to attach the windscreen but the directions that say to
scuff the aluminum and Plexiglas with 40 to 80 grit emory cloth are
daunting. I fear that a rough grit like this will remove all of the
Alclad from the aluminum and cause the Plexiglas to crack. Has anybody
used a lesser grit paper, or even ScothBrite, and still had good
adhesion to the fiberglass?
Leland in Pleasanton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Idea For Sale |
> Ditto
Peter Laurence
> Hi Chuck,
> I think this is a terrific idea. I wanted a new GPS and to partially fund
it
> I rounded up a bunch of stuff in my hangar and listed it on Ebay. It all
> sold and for good prices but,,,,, just at pay off time, PayPal crashed and
now a
> bunch of folks are sitting around, unable to access thier accounts. Know
way
> to know if they have paid or not. Money has been sent but not received
and
> thier is no way to talk to Ebay or PayPal.
> I would support any effort you make in this direction.
>
> Dennis Thomas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G B <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
Hello,
I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you
go one rib at a time (while also doing the spar rivets) left
and right until they are all done (except for the overlap).
But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the
leading edge, then go back and work the rib towards the trailing
edge? Or, doesn't matter?
Glen Bankston
Moultrie, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
Glen,
I started at the forward end of the rib and worked aft on each rib and then
riveted inboard or outboard on the main spar as I finished a rib. I had a
partner helping so I saved the rear spar rivets for when I had to work
alone. Turned out nicely.
Mike
SC
90709 wings...fuse on order
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G B
Subject: RV9-List: wing skins
Hello,
I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you go one rib at a
time (while also doing the spar rivets) left and right until they are all
done (except for the overlap).
But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the leading edge,
then go back and work the rib towards the trailing edge? Or, doesn't
matter?
Glen Bankston
Moultrie, GA
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
21, 2004) at 10/14/2004 08:55:11 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/14/2004 08:55:11 PM
Start at the rear spar in the middle and go out and down so that you are
riveting in a "V" pattern toward the main spar. This will allow you to
reach all the rivets by lifting the main spar edge and getting your arm
and bucking bar into the wing. You will finish up through the lightening
holes on each end of the skin and through the inspection holes.
The wing walk area is probably the hardest since there are so many ribs in
such a small space..
Wear a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
G B
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/14/2004 09:56 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: RV9 List
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: wing skins
Hello,
I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you
go one rib at a time (while also doing the spar rivets) left
and right until they are all done (except for the overlap).
But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the
leading edge, then go back and work the rib towards the trailing
edge? Or, doesn't matter?
Glen Bankston
Moultrie, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
I did mine starting at the rear area and worked forward and side to side.
Take your time to notice what pattern you may need in certain areas in terms
of access to the rivets. Another thing that worked well for me, I helped a
friend do his wings per Van's instructions on a flat table, then did mine.
My wings were still hanging on the stands and I did mine that way. We both
agreed hands down it was easier standing and reaching down into the wing to
buck, than on a table. Just my .02. Glenn in Arizona 90623 fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "G B" <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV9-List: wing skins
>
> Hello,
>
> I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
>
> I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
>
> I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you
> go one rib at a time (while also doing the spar rivets) left
> and right until they are all done (except for the overlap).
> But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the
> leading edge, then go back and work the rib towards the trailing
> edge? Or, doesn't matter?
>
> Glen Bankston
> Moultrie, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
PS, Glenn, forgot to mention this in the 1st reply, make sure you back rivet
the top skins on! It is easy to do and the results are beautiful! Glenn in
Arizona.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing skins
>
> I did mine starting at the rear area and worked forward and side to side.
> Take your time to notice what pattern you may need in certain areas in
terms
> of access to the rivets. Another thing that worked well for me, I helped
a
> friend do his wings per Van's instructions on a flat table, then did mine.
> My wings were still hanging on the stands and I did mine that way. We
both
> agreed hands down it was easier standing and reaching down into the wing
to
> buck, than on a table. Just my .02. Glenn in Arizona 90623 fuselage.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "G B" <microsys(at)alltel.net>
> To: "RV9 List"
> Subject: RV9-List: wing skins
>
>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
> >
> > I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
> >
> > I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you
> > go one rib at a time (while also doing the spar rivets) left
> > and right until they are all done (except for the overlap).
> > But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the
> > leading edge, then go back and work the rib towards the trailing
> > edge? Or, doesn't matter?
> >
> > Glen Bankston
> > Moultrie, GA
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
Were you able to rivet in the J-stringers by yourself?
Thanks!
Mike
SC
90709 wings...fuse on order
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry PERRYMAN
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wing skins
-->
Start at the rear spar in the middle and go out and down so that you are
riveting in a "V" pattern toward the main spar. This will allow you to reach
all the rivets by lifting the main spar edge and getting your arm and
bucking bar into the wing. You will finish up through the lightening holes
on each end of the skin and through the inspection holes.
The wing walk area is probably the hardest since there are so many ribs in
such a small space..
Wear a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
G B
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/14/2004 09:56 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: RV9 List
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: wing skins
Hello,
I am ready to rivet the wing skins on.
I am somewhat unclear on which direction to rivet in.
I see it says start with the middle rib, then I guess you go one rib at a
time (while also doing the spar rivets) left and right until they are all
done (except for the overlap).
But do I start in the middle of the rib and work towards the leading edge,
then go back and work the rib towards the trailing edge? Or, doesn't
matter?
Glen Bankston
Moultrie, GA
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
21, 2004) at 10/14/2004 10:52:45 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/14/2004 10:52:45 PM
Mike,
I was able to reach everything that I needed to reach that way. Put it in
the notch in the rib and cleco it in the middle. Rivet the middle and work
out as you do the skin and ribs. It is just another horizontal rib.
I did both of my wings on the table and did not have any trouble with
them. When finished, I had 1/64th inch twist in the wing. I am going
from memory since my wings were done over two years ago. Don't remember
any issues going by what Van's said to do on them. The plans have changed
a bit since then.
Just make sure that you have done everything that you want to do inside
the wing before you close it up. I would install a empty conduit down the
wing or at least some pull strings through a bunch of grommets for that
additional wire that you will need later.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Kit 90288
"Mike Hoover"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/14/2004 03:31 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RE: RV9-List: wing skins
Were you able to rivet in the J-stringers by yourself?
Thanks!
Mike
SC
90709 wings...fuse on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
TruTrak versus Trio any comments out there? I'm about to order and I'm
leaning towards the Trio EZ PilotII over the Digitrak.
Thanks
Roger Ping 90869 Fuselage 70% finishing kit in hand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
Lots of opinions out there. Check the archives. I LOVE my TruTrak DFC 250.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
110 hrs and counting
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Ping <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Autopilots
TruTrak versus Trio any comments out there? I'm about to order and I'm
leaning towards the Trio EZ PilotII over the Digitrak.
Thanks
Roger Ping 90869 Fuselage 70% finishing kit in hand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <associates(at)bellnet.ca> |
| Subject: | Where to mount the flap foot pedals. |
I am 6 foot 1 inch, and have tested various postions to secure flap foot pedals,
and have found the maxium postion was just simply too far, but the shortest
postion seems good, but of course this does not make sense. I am sure there are
five foot pilots who can fly this plane by reaching the pedals, right, so being
6 plus feet, it doesn't make sense this (short??) position is right. Is
there any other individual around my height, who can help me out, where did you
final place the pedals. ( I am using the chair kit sold by vans)
Also the gap between the pedals and the floor seems quite large, is our feet to
rest in the pedal (hang in there) or, are tippy toes resting against the bottom
edge of them.
Bill, having fun fun fun, just love this challenge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G B <microsys(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount the flap foot pedals. |
Bill,
I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum the Air Force allowed.
SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I find that the most comfortable
position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle. Stretching out, even
in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I think.
Glen
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount the flap foot pedals. |
Hello,
What are flap foot pedals?
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: G B <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Date: Monday, October 18, 2004 7:47 am
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot pedals.
>
> Bill,
>
> I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum the Air Force
> allowed.SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I find that the
> most comfortable
> position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle. Stretching
> out, even
> in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I think.
>
> Glen
> wings
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Where to mount the flap foot pedals. |
I think he means rudder pedals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders |
I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't have any feelings either way on
what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone out there have some insight
into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float type fuel level senders?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders |
Cost against capacitive. All these really cool instruments are great, but
shoot cost up in a hurry. Gauges for capacitive are 10x as most are really
cool digital. Before you know it you will be into flow sensors and all
kinds of stuff.
Capacitive are mechanically simple - no moving parts.
John Oliveira
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't have any feelings either
> way on what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone out there have
> some insight into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float type fuel
> level senders?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Drill Bits |
Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the
plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the holes.
I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30
bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem to
be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8"
bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway? I
was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits.
Thanks,
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Drill Bits |
| From: | Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
21, 2004) at 10/19/2004 05:11:07 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/19/2004 05:11:07 PM
Bryan,
You need to drill the holes larger than the screws so that the plexi can
shrink and expand with heat and cold. Hole it to tight and it will crack.
The plexi bits are nothing more than the straight blade tile bits sold at
Home Depot and others.
Do not use a regular bit as it will tend to bite into the plexi and WILL
crack it. The bit will act like a screw. Try some of the excess you cut
off the canopy to practice drilling on before you try the actual canopy.
See what works for you.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Bryan Flood"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/19/2004 09:10 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits
Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the
plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the
holes.
I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30
bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem
to
be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8"
bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway?
I
was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits.
Thanks,
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
Check with AP/AI's who have to work on and calibrate them. All that I have
asked choose the float type.
>
> I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't have any feelings either
way on what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone out there have
some insight into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float type fuel
level senders?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Duiven" <emduiven(at)chaffee.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Drill Bits |
I believe by RV-9A plans said to drill with #40 bits first through both the
plexi and the frame. Countersink appropriate holes to appropriate sizes.
Then drill canopy with 5/32" plexi drill - 1/32 greater than the 1/8 #30
drill (+ or - 0.003"). (This gives a little slack for the plexi to move
under load. Finally, drill the canopy frame with #30 drill to match size of
rivet.
Mike Duiven
N711ED (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits
>
> Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the
> plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the
holes.
> I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30
> bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem
to
> be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8"
> bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway?
I
> was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bryan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders |
I chose the basic float type senders and the Van's gauges. The gauges don't
begin to register until you have burned down the first 3 to 4 gallons. After
that, they seem to be quite accurate, in level flight. If you make a hard
turn (especially if not perfectly coordinated), or if you get into real bumpy
air, it will disturb the reading for a bit.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Drill Bits |
Bryan,
Everyone is right about the holes being oversized. They must be larger or
you will have problems, either now or later. You can make a plexi bit out
of a regular bit, giving you access to all the sizes you could need. There
is no rake on the leading edge of a plexi bit; it is square to the face
that you are drilling. If you want to try making one, use a Dremel and
basically grind (?dull?) the cutting edge of the bit until the sharp edge
is parallel to the centerline of the bit and it doesn't try to "dig in."
You won't have to take off all that much. Try the bit on scraps until you
are SURE it won't dig in and crack. Plexi bits are about the easiest thing
there is to sharpen, and you can use the cheapest bits you can find as
plexi won't dull them anyway. I would always opt for "professional" bits,
but this has gotten me out of a couple of jams.
Bob Kelly, 90854
On 10/19/04, Bryan Flood wrote:
>
> Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the
> plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the
> holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the
> regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi
> bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or
> just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you
> really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16"
> bits.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Murray <jmurraymd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 10/18/04 |
I installed capacitance senders in both tanks. I also
installed the Advanced Control System Engine Monitor.
Both tanks were built the same and I made absolutely
sure the wiring for the sender was perfect. I never
could get the left tank capacitance sender to work.
Replaced everything external to the tank and still
would not work. Finally, installed a float in that
tank. Float works fine in the left tank and the
capacitance works fine in the right tank. My opinion,
not worth the extra trouble and expense. Go with the
floats. Easy to fix when there is a problem. Flying
with 80 hours.
Jim Murray 90430
--- RV9-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found
> in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes
> the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
> Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the
> plain ASCII version
> of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a
> generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-10-18.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-10-18.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> RV9-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon
> 10/18/04: 4
>
>
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 08:48 AM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals. (G B)
> 2. 05:04 PM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals. (Michael Ice)
> 3. 05:06 PM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals. (DThomas773(at)AOL.COM)
> 4. 11:37 PM - Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level
> Senders (Aaron Frechette)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: G B <microsys(at)alltel.net>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals.
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum the
> Air Force allowed.
> SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I find that
> the most comfortable
> position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle.
> Stretching out, even
> in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I think.
>
> Glen
> wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals.
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> What are flap foot pedals?
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: G B <microsys(at)alltel.net>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals.
>
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum
> the Air Force
> > allowed.SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I
> find that the
> > most comfortable
> > position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle.
> Stretching
> > out, even
> > in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I
> think.
> >
> > Glen
> > wings
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> >
>
========================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot
> pedals.
>
>
> I think he means rudder pedals.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level
> Senders
>
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't
> have any feelings either way on
> what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone
> out there have some insight
> into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float
> type fuel level senders?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Drill Bits |
A UniBit works very well on Plexiglas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Kelly" <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits
>
> Bryan,
>
> Everyone is right about the holes being oversized. They must be larger or
> you will have problems, either now or later. You can make a plexi bit out
> of a regular bit, giving you access to all the sizes you could need.
There
> is no rake on the leading edge of a plexi bit; it is square to the face
> that you are drilling. If you want to try making one, use a Dremel and
> basically grind (?dull?) the cutting edge of the bit until the sharp edge
> is parallel to the centerline of the bit and it doesn't try to "dig in."
> You won't have to take off all that much. Try the bit on scraps until you
> are SURE it won't dig in and crack. Plexi bits are about the easiest
thing
> there is to sharpen, and you can use the cheapest bits you can find as
> plexi won't dull them anyway. I would always opt for "professional" bits,
> but this has gotten me out of a couple of jams.
>
> Bob Kelly, 90854
>
> On 10/19/04, Bryan Flood wrote:
> >
> > Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got
the
> > plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the
> > holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the
> > regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi
> > bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this
or
> > just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you
> > really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and
3/16"
> > bits.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bryan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders |
I have the capacitive tanks and use an EI fuel gage. Couldn't be happier.
Also recently installed EI's fuel computer and I'm now even happier than I
was.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV 300+ hours.
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Tampa, FL Area Builders/Flyers? |
I found myself traveling to Tampa, FL next week with nothing to do on
Wednesday night (Oct. 27th). Any Tampa Bay builders/flyers out there
willing to take me up for a ride (if flying) or want to show off their
project under construction? Hec.. I'd be willing to buck or drive some
rivets. :-)
I arrive at TPA at 4:40pm and will be staying at the Trade Winds Grand
Island Resort.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage/Finish)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tampa, FL Area Builders/Flyers? |
If you want to re-route your trip through Dallas, I have some rivets
that need bucking! :-)
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Oct 20, 2004, at 10:16 AM, Matthew Brandes wrote:
>
> I found myself traveling to Tampa, FL next week with nothing to do on
> Wednesday night (Oct. 27th). Any Tampa Bay builders/flyers out there
> willing to take me up for a ride (if flying) or want to show off their
> project under construction? Hec.. I'd be willing to buck or drive some
> rivets. :-)
>
> I arrive at TPA at 4:40pm and will be staying at the Trade Winds Grand
> Island Resort.
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Fuselage/Finish)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George
Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K.Wilson" <fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Subaru engine package |
I have a Subaru engine fwf package up for bid on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2497075950&ssPageNameADME:B:LC:MT:1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Subaru engine package |
Invalid Item
The item you requested () is invalid, still pending, or no longer in our
database. Please check the number and try again. If this message persists,
the item has either not started and is not yet available for viewing, or
has expired and is no longer available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Finish kit arrival & SW JetFlex |
Sure has been quite in the group lately....
Picked up my finish kit today from Roadway. Cost was $408.99!! That is
from OR to KS. I called Van's to confirm that price and Anne said it was
right. It is higher than other kits because it ships under a different
Class because of the canopy. At 4ft x 8ft, it barely fit in my truck but
saved myself some $$$ by picking it up myself.
On another note, I painted the interior this past weekend. I used the
Sherwin Williams JetFlex water-soluable in a flat 'Subtle White' color. The
white isn't so subtle but it came out well. I'll get a closer look tonight
after it has had time to cure to see how good of a job I really did.
Here's hoping everyone is making progress are their projects!
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Starting the finish)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot tubing.
The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing passes through
the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you terminated
the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare it and bend it
90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in the root rib? If
so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tubing question |
Hi Paul,
I just left about 14 inches extra at the wing route and finished the bends,
flared the end and installed the fittings when we hung the wings. At that point
you know exactly where you want to go. If the wings are going to be stored
for a while be sure to put a red warning flag on the end so a careless visitor
doesn't wlak into it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Spruce ACS control cables. |
I saw a post here a few days ago about spruces' control cables supplied by
ACS and went to the hanger to measure the one I had ordered a few months
back and recieved about 3 weeks ago. It did not fit the RV Kit. All the
dimensions I supplied to spruce were correct but another dimension (the
distance from the second bulkhead fitting to the end) was not the correct
length for the RV. This was not a dimension that I supplied or Spruce
required. Also missing was the plastic coating that the Van's cables from
ACS have. Turns out that Van's orders a double Custom cable when only a
single custom and stanard cables were available from spruce (or somehting
like that). So anyway to make a long story short I paid $88 for the wrong
cable, Spruce refunded $44 and now I have to pay $139 for the right cable
(Which minus the refund is $95, more than I paid for the original cable!)
I'm not convinced Spruce knows exactly what is going on either, so I would
caution everyone to get all of the relevant dimensions for their control
cables before ordering custom cables from Spruce. I do have to say however
ACS does make some nice looking cables, just be really carefull when
ordering from Spruce so you don't end up paying a bunch extra and have to
wait for Custom cables to be made.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
Great timing for this question. I just test fitted my Dynon pitot tube
last night and posted some pictures. You can see what I did at the
bottom of the wing section of my web site.
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems
rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV9-List: Pitot tubing question
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the
pitot tubing. The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the
tubing passes through the snap bushing to the wing root, however how
have most of you terminated the tubing. Did you leave a short length
(at the root), flare it and bend it 90 degrees. Did you install a 90
degree bulkhead fitting in the root rib? If so what was your procedure
for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap trailing edge thickness |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks
I used T-88 expoxy between the skins and AEX wedge of the
trailing edges of the elevators, rudder and ailersons with good
results - very straight and even.
Today I completed the right flap and realized that I had a
thicker layer of epoxy between each skin and the AEX wedge.
Consequently the very edge of the trailing edge is a little
thicker than my previous efforts - I would say its 2.5 mm at
worst and generally 2mm along the span. My other effots were
about 1.5 mm.
I've trawled the lists and the Net but haven't found anything
definitive - is it a bad think to have that thick a trailing
edge ? I see some notes that you want a "knife edge" if you
can get it.
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge thickness |
| From: | Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
21, 2004) at 10/28/2004 03:39:18 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/28/2004 03:39:18 PM
The trailing edge will work just fine. The original trailing edge on RVs
was folded into the skin and much thicker. The idea of using an adhesive
on the trailing edge came from the user community, not from Vans. The idea
is to have a smooth transition for the air flowing over the wing. That
small difference will have little effect when flying. It is cosmetic more
than functional. It might matter if you are building a plane to be Grand
Champion at Oshkosh instead of a trusty flyer.
Make sure that you round the corners of the flaps and ailerons. I have a
gash in my leg from a sharp corner that I left on the left flap. You can
bet that it is gone now. It cut through a pair of bluejeans and into my
leg as I walked by. Round is better.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge thickness |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap trailing edge thickness
GERRY You realy dont want a knife edge trailing edge bad for air flow.what you
might do is file all trailing edges squair. as i did. this way you can bring
edge thickness equal on all . and have a better final fit and finish. Bob Watson
N194BN 250 plus hr,s
Folks
I used T-88 expoxy between the skins and AEX wedge of the
trailing edges of the elevators, rudder and ailersons with good
results - very straight and even.
Today I completed the right flap and realized that I had a
thicker layer of epoxy between each skin and the AEX wedge.
Consequently the very edge of the trailing edge is a little
thicker than my previous efforts - I would say its 2.5 mm at
worst and generally 2mm along the span. My other effots were
about 1.5 mm.
I've trawled the lists and the Net but haven't found anything
definitive - is it a bad think to have that thick a trailing
edge ? I see some notes that you want a "knife edge" if you
can get it.
g
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge thickness |
I forwarded this question to an airfoil designer..
Here's his reply to my question of a sharp vs. 1/8"
square trailing edge.
-Clay
Theoretically, a sharper edge is better because of a
better defined
stagnation point, but in real life it won't make any
difference at all.
The
boundary layer is pretty thick by the time it reaches
that far anyway.
John
--- Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>
> Folks
>
> I used T-88 expoxy between the skins and AEX wedge
> of the
> trailing edges of the elevators, rudder and
> ailersons with good
> results - very straight and even.
>
> Today I completed the right flap and realized that I
> had a
> thicker layer of epoxy between each skin and the AEX
> wedge.
> Consequently the very edge of the trailing edge is a
> little
> thicker than my previous efforts - I would say its
> 2.5 mm at
> worst and generally 2mm along the span. My other
> effots were
> about 1.5 mm.
>
> I've trawled the lists and the Net but haven't found
> anything
> definitive - is it a bad think to have that thick a
> trailing
> edge ? I see some notes that you want a "knife
> edge" if you
> can get it.
>
> g
>
>
==========================================================
>
> Gerry Filby
> gerf(at)gerf.com
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Master clylinder fittings |
I am trying to get the fluid to stay in the brake syste. (Oh I wish it was
easy as electricity!)
I am now down to one leak but this is not responding to cursing. The fitting
on the low pressure (top) side of one of the master clyinders persists in
weeping. Two questions:
1) I notice in DWG36 dated 7/27/00 the plan indicates I should be using a
brass fitting (F 69-F-04*02). In fact I am using some nylon fittings,
similar to the F271 on the back of the reservoir, and presumably these were
what was supplied but its too long ago to remember. I have no brass parts
left over. Did others get nylon?
2) Anyone had leak problems with these? How to cure. It is very hard to tell
which bit is leaking, probably where the pipe from the reservoir comes in.
Help and moral support needed!
Thanks, Steve.
PS Needless to say every time I go down there I knock the jamjar of brake
fluid over. What fun eh!
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Trailing Edge Construction |
What did you folks do for the aileron trailing edges in terms of using Pro Seal
or epoxy or whatever for finishing your trailing edge riveting? I noticed the
plans do not call for bonding prior to riveting. Your suggestions are appreciated
in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A 90623, about to start fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
Steve I had leak problems as well. Here is the fix. The masters cylinders
use brass fittings unless you have dual brakes then the pilot side subs the AN
fittings for one of each left and right top holes. The brass fittings should
be rotated sloooooly and I can't stress that enough one more revolution than
you think it can handle. Slowly so as not to break the fitting or the master
cylinder. You do not need any pipe thread compound as these are pipe thread
and they are tapered. Tighten each fitting one more rotation until it stops
leaking and your done. Finally pump the lines untill all air is gone then pump
some more to ensure its done.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, , ,
| Subject: | Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
1.27 SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID Subject contains a unique ID
Fellow RV builders,
I am finishing my RV-7 wings and installing the standard pitot tube system. I
emailed the group and received some very good information. Most builders are
using nylon tubing and transitioning from the aluminum tube somewhere in the wing.
However if you follow Van's instructions and use the "center" hole in the
main ribs, the aluminum tubing will block access to the center fuel tank "Z"
bracket bolt, not a good thing. So it appears to me that if you are going to
run the tubing down the "center" hole, you better transition to nylon tubing
before it blocks the bolt. This means you really need to transition to nylon
tubing right behind the AN bulkhead fitting for the pitot tube.
Am I off base?
If I knew of this before I skinned (top skin) my wings, I might have drilled a
tube routing hole further aft in the main rib to accommodate the aluminum tubing.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
Paul, if this causes a problem with a bolt, etc then drill a hole and move it
down the rib or around the problem. Personally I moved the pitot holes the
the bottom of the wing to avoid the bellcrank and torque tube. The moral is
its your airplane do what you want within reason. I does not matter where the
holes are. My .02 worth
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
Teflon tape is a big help on this little rascals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
It is even easier without any leaks or twisted off fittings from over
ease in turning then there is alphacrocryliate (crazy glue) which sets up
and maintains the "clocking" of your fittings. The Dope part seals and then
doesn't leak. This only works on pipe type taper fittings not the flared
joints which do not use any sealant. If these leak there are small soft
metal "V-seals" that will fix damaged fittings. They go between the nose of
the fitting and the flared tube.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sargentclt(at)cs.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
>
> Steve I had leak problems as well. Here is the fix. The masters
cylinders
> use brass fittings unless you have dual brakes then the pilot side subs
the AN
> fittings for one of each left and right top holes. The brass fittings
should
> be rotated sloooooly and I can't stress that enough one more revolution
than
> you think it can handle. Slowly so as not to break the fitting or the
master
> cylinder. You do not need any pipe thread compound as these are pipe
thread
> and they are tapered. Tighten each fitting one more rotation until it
stops
> leaking and your done. Finally pump the lines untill all air is gone then
pump
> some more to ensure its done.
>
> Tad Sargent
> Sargentclt(at)CS.com
> RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
Just a little piece of Teflon tape in your system can make big problems.
Makes your brakes work weird.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
>
> Teflon tape is a big help on this little rascals.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trailing Edge Construction |
Glenn
Do the same as the instructions for the rudder and elevators.
Use proseal or T-88 or whatever works for you before you rivet the AEX wedge to
the
skins. Actually, I know a couple of builders that got fairly good edges without
bonding the AEX wedge. However, Proseal worked best for me.
Peter
On 30 Oct 2004 at 11:50, Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
> What did you folks do for the aileron trailing edges in terms of using
> Pro Seal or epoxy or whatever for finishing your trailing edge
> riveting? I noticed the plans do not call for bonding prior to
> riveting. Your suggestions are appreciated in advance. Glenn in
> Arizona -9A 90623, about to start fuselage.
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
When I first put my brake sytem together I had multiple leaks. I consulted
my A.I. and he suggested putting Teflon Tape on the fittings. I completely
removed all the the fittings and put them back, using teflon tape. I am now at
140 hours and have had no problems and no leaks. I hear all the horror storys
and warnings about the tape but if you put the tape it on your fittings and not
in your system how can you have a problem? Fix it and get on with it.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
Little bits of tape can get by the threads and get into your system, take
it from those who have had it happen in hydraulic applications and fuel
systems. Tape should be used for water systems not any hydraulic systems,
that is for teflon paste which also prevents the fittings from galling
during assembly.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 10/30/04 19:45:58
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
When I first put my brake sytem together I had multiple leaks. I consulted
my A.I. and he suggested putting Teflon Tape on the fittings. I completely
removed all the the fittings and put them back, using teflon tape. I am now
at
140 hours and have had no problems and no leaks. I hear all the horror
storys
and warnings about the tape but if you put the tape it on your fittings and
not
in your system how can you have a problem? Fix it and get on with it.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
The problem with Teflon tape generally is not with the first application.
It is the second that pushes the pieces into your system and plugs small
orifices or prevent the seals in you master cylinder from doing their job.
Can you get lucky? Of course! but why take the chance?
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
>
> When I first put my brake sytem together I had multiple leaks. I
consulted
> my A.I. and he suggested putting Teflon Tape on the fittings. I
completely
> removed all the the fittings and put them back, using teflon tape. I am
now at
> 140 hours and have had no problems and no leaks. I hear all the horror
storys
> and warnings about the tape but if you put the tape it on your fittings
and not
> in your system how can you have a problem? Fix it and get on with it.
>
> Dennis Thomas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Master clylinder fittings |
Thanks for all the replies guys, but I still dont understand did VANS ship
you brass or nylon fittings? Thanks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Sampson
Subject: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
I am trying to get the fluid to stay in the brake syste. (Oh I wish it was
easy as electricity!)
I am now down to one leak but this is not responding to cursing. The fitting
on the low pressure (top) side of one of the master clyinders persists in
weeping. Two questions:
1) I notice in DWG36 dated 7/27/00 the plan indicates I should be using a
brass fitting (F 69-F-04*02). In fact I am using some nylon fittings,
similar to the F271 on the back of the reservoir, and presumably these were
what was supplied but its too long ago to remember. I have no brass parts
left over. Did others get nylon?
2) Anyone had leak problems with these? How to cure. It is very hard to tell
which bit is leaking, probably where the pipe from the reservoir comes in.
Help and moral support needed!
Thanks, Steve.
PS Needless to say every time I go down there I knock the jamjar of brake
fluid over. What fun eh!
---
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
on behalf of the London Business School community.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
on behalf of the London Business School community.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Trailing Edge Construction |
Check my web site. I tried to use epoxy on the rudder but didn't like
the results so before I riveted it I used a head gun to take it apart,
cleaned it, and then dry riveted them by hand using a squeezer and flat
dies ground to the proper angle. When it came time to do the elevators
I created the jig to hold wedge so I could countersink them at the
correct angel and once again hand squeezed them. There are pictures on
my web site, www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html. They came out very
straight, my tech advisor was astonished.
Send me a note, if you have any other questions.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Brasch
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Trailing Edge Construction
What did you folks do for the aileron trailing edges in terms of using
Pro Seal or epoxy or whatever for finishing your trailing edge riveting?
I noticed the plans do not call for bonding prior to riveting. Your
suggestions are appreciated in advance. Glenn in Arizona -9A 90623,
about to start fuselage.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | Wingtip lenses installation |
Where am I supposed to find instructions for installing the wingtip plexi? I
don't see it in the manual and mine did not come with any separate
instructions.
Thanks.
Wayne
Danville, VA
RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Master clylinder fittings |
Brass.
Tad S.
RV7A"Steve Sampson" wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the replies guys, but I still dont understand did VANS ship
>you brass or nylon fittings? Thanks, Steve.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Sampson
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
>
>
>I am trying to get the fluid to stay in the brake syste. (Oh I wish it was
>easy as electricity!)
>
>I am now down to one leak but this is not responding to cursing. The fitting
>on the low pressure (top) side of one of the master clyinders persists in
>weeping. Two questions:
>
>1) I notice in DWG36 dated 7/27/00 the plan indicates I should be using a
>brass fitting (F 69-F-04*02). In fact I am using some nylon fittings,
>similar to the F271 on the back of the reservoir, and presumably these were
>what was supplied but its too long ago to remember. I have no brass parts
>left over. Did others get nylon?
>
>2) Anyone had leak problems with these? How to cure. It is very hard to tell
>which bit is leaking, probably where the pipe from the reservoir comes in.
>Help and moral support needed!
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
>PS Needless to say every time I go down there I knock the jamjar of brake
>fluid over. What fun eh!
>
>---
>
>
>This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
>on behalf of the London Business School community.
>For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
>
>
>This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
>on behalf of the London Business School community.
>For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lenses installation |
The instruction sheet comes with the parts in bag #967.
Cliff #90667 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Wingtip lenses installation
>
> Where am I supposed to find instructions for installing the wingtip plexi?
I
> don't see it in the manual and mine did not come with any separate
> instructions.
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne
> Danville, VA
> RV9A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
I just started the RV9 empennage kit and ran into a snag fitting the 904's to the
front spar.
While the three 1/8 pre-punched holes in the front flange of the ribs match the
three corresponding ones in the spar the top and bottom 3/32 holes in the rib
flange really dont' want to match their partners in the spar flange.
I can get a cleco in them with a lot of bending and pushing but I'm concerned that
when it's time to match drill the skin thru the spar and into the rib I'll
end up with, at best, an oversized hole in the rib and, at worst, two holes in
the front of each rib.
Clearly there is something not bent correctly but I can't figure out what. This
is my first metal airplane (currently I'm a Kitfox builder/flier) so I have
virtually no background to draw on.
Bill Chenoweth
Albion, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
Bill,
I just finished the HS about 3 weeks ago. You will run into all sorts of
little problems like this. Pushing and bending is part of the process, with
limitations of course.
Did you "Flute" the ribs?
Mike Ice
Anchorage, Alaska
RV-9 standard build, elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs
>
> I just started the RV9 empennage kit and ran into a snag fitting the 904's
to the front spar.
>
> While the three 1/8 pre-punched holes in the front flange of the ribs
match the three corresponding ones in the spar the top and bottom 3/32 holes
in the rib flange really dont' want to match their partners in the spar
flange.
>
> I can get a cleco in them with a lot of bending and pushing but I'm
concerned that when it's time to match drill the skin thru the spar and into
the rib I'll end up with, at best, an oversized hole in the rib and, at
worst, two holes in the front of each rib.
>
> Clearly there is something not bent correctly but I can't figure out what.
This is my first metal airplane (currently I'm a Kitfox builder/flier) so I
have virtually no background to draw on.
>
> Bill Chenoweth
> Albion, Maine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
Hi Bill,
We built the RV-9A empenage at the Alexander Technical Center in Griffin, GA
and didn't have any problems getting the 904s to line up. You will have to drill
the pre-punched wholes out with the appropriate drill bits and this should
help to get the fit right. If the alignment is off significantly, you may need
Van's to resend you replacement pieces.
I've attached pictures of the front spar before and after riveting. Everything
worked out as planned.
Hope this helps....and happy building...
Richard Hebert/Ray Abadie
Atlanta GA
RV-9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chenoweth
Subject: RV9-List: Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs
I just started the RV9 empennage kit and ran into a snag fitting the 904's to the
front spar.
While the three 1/8 pre-punched holes in the front flange of the ribs match the
three corresponding ones in the spar the top and bottom 3/32 holes in the rib
flange really dont' want to match their partners in the spar flange.
I can get a cleco in them with a lot of bending and pushing but I'm concerned that
when it's time to match drill the skin thru the spar and into the rib I'll
end up with, at best, an oversized hole in the rib and, at worst, two holes in
the front of each rib.
Clearly there is something not bent correctly but I can't figure out what. This
is my first metal airplane (currently I'm a Kitfox builder/flier) so I have
virtually no background to draw on.
Bill Chenoweth
Albion, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Share documentation? |
After 3 years and 8 months, and 2550 hours, N937RK (90291) came to life last Saturday,
with the first engine start. It ran beautifully, and fired on the first
crank. BTW, the engine is a new AeroSportPower O-320-D2A swinging a Sensenich
metal prop. I'm now faced with the weight and balance an lots of "paper work"
to go to the FAA. Hopefully we will be flying this month or at least by
year end.
What I am looking for is some documentation assistances. Any of you who are flying
the 9A willing to share your documentation with me? I'm looking for weight
and balance data or spreadsheet, Flight testing plans, flight numbers, Checklists,
POH or any other documentation that might speed my paper work along.
It need not be in beautiful format, I'll take what ever I can get.
You can send it directly to my email address: Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com
Ron Murray
90291
Ready to fly
Lake Norman Airpark, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Share documentation? |
| From: | Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman(at)atofina.com> |
21, 2004) at 11/10/2004 03:56:39 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/10/2004 03:56:39 PM
Ron.
Check the files section of the yahoo groups RV9 and Subaru sections. You
can get there from Doug Reeves RV List. I put POH, W&B, Test plan and
other docs out there from my 9.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
90288
N194DL - 175 hrs
"Ron Murray"
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/10/2004 08:07 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To:
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Share documentation?
After 3 years and 8 months, and 2550 hours, N937RK (90291) came to life
last Saturday, with the first engine start. It ran beautifully, and fired
on the first crank. BTW, the engine is a new AeroSportPower O-320-D2A
swinging a Sensenich metal prop. I'm now faced with the weight and
balance an lots of "paper work" to go to the FAA. Hopefully we will be
flying this month or at least by year end.
What I am looking for is some documentation assistances. Any of you who
are flying the 9A willing to share your documentation with me? I'm
looking for weight and balance data or spreadsheet, Flight testing plans,
flight numbers, Checklists, POH or any other documentation that might
speed my paper work along. It need not be in beautiful format, I'll take
what ever I can get.
You can send it directly to my email address: Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com
Ron Murray
90291
Ready to fly
Lake Norman Airpark, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Share documentation? |
I'm 90-120 days behind Ron in this process but would like to share in the wealth
if you all would CC me with the requested information.
John Kerr
90616, RV9
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> After 3 years and 8 months, and 2550 hours, N937RK (90291) came to life last
> Saturday, with the first engine start. It ran beautifully, and fired on the
> first crank. BTW, the engine is a new AeroSportPower O-320-D2A swinging a
> Sensenich metal prop. I'm now faced with the weight and balance an lots of
> "paper work" to go to the FAA. Hopefully we will be flying this month or at
> least by year end.
>
> What I am looking for is some documentation assistances. Any of you who are
> flying the 9A willing to share your documentation with me? I'm looking for
> weight and balance data or spreadsheet, Flight testing plans, flight numbers,
> Checklists, POH or any other documentation that might speed my paper work along.
> It need not be in beautiful format, I'll take what ever I can get.
>
> You can send it directly to my email address:
> Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com
>
> Ron Murray
> 90291
> Ready to fly
> Lake Norman Airpark, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'm 90-120 days behind Ron in this process but would like to share in the wealth
if you all would CC me with the requested information.
John Kerr
90616, RV9
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: "Ron Murray"
After 3 years and 8 months, and 2550 hours, N937RK (90291) came to life last
Saturday, with the first engine start. It ran beautifully, and fired on the
first crank. BTW, the engine is a new AeroSportPower O-320-D2A swinging a
Sensenich metal prop. I'm now faced with the weight and balance an lots of
"paper work" to go to the FAA. Hopefully we will be flying this month or at
least by year end.
What I am looking for is some documentation assistances. Any of you who are
flying the 9A willing to share your documentation with me? I'm looking for
weight and balance data or spreadsheet, Flight testing plans, flight numbers,
Checklists, POH or any other docume
ntation that might speed my paper work along.
It need not be in beautiful format, I'll take what ever I can get.
You can send it directly to my email address:
Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com
Ron Murray
90291
Ready to fly
Lake Norman Airpark, NC
for your generous support!
http://www.matronics.com/archives
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SkyKing <skyking135(at)mindspring.com> |
I have the RV9 Empennage video by Orndorff if anyone is interested. I
only viewed it once and will let it go for $24.00. If anyone is
interested please contact me off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
I just completed an aileron. I had no problems whatsoever in the assembly and
took the advice of a fellow builder in the trailing edge, which came out near
perfect and straight. The problem is when I lay the completed structure flat
on a table, one side of the trailing edge is flush, the other is off the table
by almost 1/2". Again, the trailing edge is straight, and if I push down on it,
it brings up a forward corner. I cannot imagine how this occurred and wondering
if anyone else has had this happen. I can only assume this twist should
not be, and if it stays, the flaps and/or tips will not be aligned properly when
assembled. Your comments are appreciated in advance. Glenn in AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
Glenn, you've been bitten by the classic "straight-but-not-true" bug. You
are correct in your assessment that it will not be lined up when you hang
it on the wing. You will need to drill out the rivets in the innermost and
outermost ribs and possibly even the trailing edge rivets and have at it
again, this time on a perfectly flat surface.
I did the same thing on my first aileron, but I sensed that it was going
bad after a small number of rivets. My solution was to stand the wings on
their nose-stand cradles and build the flaps and ailerons while hinged in
place. This way I could use my fuselage longeron angles as clamps along
the entire trailing edge during construction and be absolutely guaranteed
of straight and true trailing edges. You can still pre-rivet the
stiffeners and forward rows of rivets, but if you clamp them together like
this when you do the trailing edge and end ribs, you should have an easier
time with it. You only need to "tack" a few rivets to set the shape, then
you can remove them to do the final riveting.
In case anyone is wondering, during normal flight maneuvers the ailerons
are so sensitive that I rarely see them move more than about 1/2" up or
down. ...thus a 1/2" twist is an obvious no-go and must be fixed.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jen Coull" <cfiijen(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
Sounds to me like you haven't fluted the ribs or you haven't fluted them
enough.
There may be a small mis-alignment, but you should still be able to get the
cleco
in the hole. Also I did have a single bad rib in my kit, it was stamped
backwards and
all of the "factory flutes" fell right on top of the holes. The flutes
should always be
between rivet holes, never on a hole. Van's promptly replaced my rib, but I
doubt
you got an entire batch of bad ribs.
Jen Coull
Lake Worth, FL
90349 - Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | CH Products Control Stick Switches Electrical Specifications |
There has been discussions about the CH Products control sticks (http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html) on the newsgroups lately. I have two of them, but there was a question about what the switch ratings were. I contacted Kevin Williamson of CH
Products and he was kind enough to supply me with a set of sample switches (from
Omron) and the part numbers thereof.
I downloaded the complete data sheet from the web, reviewed the specifications
and then called the Omron factory representative. There are a few minor errors
in the datasheet available on the web, so the rep emailed me the revised (corrected)
sheets. I
also discussed with him the specifications listed and got clarification, although
it turned out that when I received the revised data sheets, the specification
is very clear now.
The bottom line is that the electrical rating for all three different switches
is: 1-50mA, at 5-24V.
The explanation for the ratings is:
1. The lower values (1 mA at 5V) are to make sure that the switch sees enough energy
when switching to keep the contacts clean. Any lower values would not guarantee
that the contacts will always make proper contact over the life of the
switch. If for
some reason the load being switched is too low, a resistor could be added in parallel
with the load to increase the current to at least 1 mA.
2. The higher values (50 mA at 24V) are the maximum values that should be switched
that will not damage the switch. Switching any higher loads will risk damaging
the contacts - either welding them shut or warping them or causing excessive
arc damage - and
will certainly shorten the life of the switch.
3. These ratings are for a resistive load, so if they are to be used with a relay
or motor the contacts MUST be protected with a diode or other type of snubber
network!
Of course, the manufacturer always has a margin in the design so if one chooses
to switch 55mA at 14V (for instance), the switch will probably still have a reasonable
life. However, pushing them to 100 mA or more will definitely shorten
the life and may
result in a catastrophic failure at some point.
These switches are rated for a lot of actuations so their use in an airplane should
be no problem. The hat switches are rated for 300,000 operations (minimum),
the switches on the top face of the stick are rated for 100,000 operations
(minimum) and the
trigger (typically used for push-to-talk) is rated for 1,000,000 operations (minimum).
To put these numbers in perspective, let's assume you make one flight every day
for ten years. For each flight you could use the hat switch to trim the airplane
82 times in each direction, you could actuate the flaps (assuming that is
what you use the two
gray switches on the top of the stick for) 27 times each up and down and you could
push-to-talk 274 times.
I am satisfied that the switches used are as robust as you will find and the ratings
are adequate for the task. Just don't go overboard on what you connect
direct to the switches and your CH Products control stick will have a long and
happy life!
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
Hi Glenn, the same thing happened to me. Makes you wonder if the
predrilled holes aren't a little off. I did notice the twist before
riveting the other side together on my first one so I broke out some
extra weight (lead bullets) and when I was done it came out pretty
close. As I remember 5/32". I do, although, have noticeable diagonal
wave in the reflection off the bottom skin. I paid very close attention
on my next aileron and still ended up with a very slight twist after
using LOTS of weight. I think when the plans say weight they mean
WEIGHT! I talked to a professional builder in the area and he said
press on. He's seen a lot worse. I guess it's up to you. Shouldn't
cost too much and only a couple of days to build another one if that's
what you choose to do. You can always press on and build another in the
future.
Don't let it get you down. Keep pounding!
Roger Ping
90869 fuselage
Peoria AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Brasch
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Twist
I just completed an aileron. I had no problems whatsoever in the
assembly and took the advice of a fellow builder in the trailing edge,
which came out near perfect and straight. The problem is when I lay the
completed structure flat on a table, one side of the trailing edge is
flush, the other is off the table by almost 1/2". Again, the trailing
edge is straight, and if I push down on it, it brings up a forward
corner. I cannot imagine how this occurred and wondering if anyone else
has had this happen. I can only assume this twist should not be, and if
it stays, the flaps and/or tips will not be aligned properly when
assembled. Your comments are appreciated in advance. Glenn in AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
Hi Glenn,
I had the same problem with my first aileron, sacrificed it and built
another. I thought my problem lay in not having the assembly on a dead flat surface
when I drilled the first ribs to the balance bar.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Keith T Uhls ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Keith T Uhls
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV9-List
Subject: RV-7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/keithuhls@juno.com.11.14.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
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| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com> |
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
rv9-list(at)matronics.com.1.70.SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS.Similar.addresses.in.recipient.list
I just noticed on the Land Of Enchantment website that they are moving
the fly-in to a new location at 5T6. While I have been to the museum
there, which is nice, it looks to be in the middle of nowhere, far from
lodging and no rental cars. Tell me it aint so. My wife and I really
enjoy Las Cruces, I for one vote for not moving the fly-in. Someone in
the know need to fill us in on the reasons for the move.
Gary
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Bandsaw question |
It seems the old bandsaw I had been using might have finally bit the
dust. It was a cheap 14" saw my brother gave me but was variable speed
and worked great for cutting aluminum. The problem is the company that
built it is no longer around so parts may not be available.
With the thought that I may have to replace it in mind, I would like to
solicit some recommendations from my fellow builders.
What bandsaw would you recommend for cutting aluminum.
Bill
RV-9
SN: 90737
Fuselage
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw question |
Bill, I have the Ryobi 9" bandsaw from Home Depot. It ran about $120. It works
fine but at times I wish it had a deeper throat. The trick is in the blade. If
I remember correctly, Home Depot only sells two blades, both intended for wood.
The finest, it may be a 16 tooth/inch, is adequate for aluminum but it dulls
instantly on steel. The great thing about Home Depot is their return policy.
Leland
Expecting a Catto 3-blade prop Saturday
"It seems the old bandsaw I had been using might have finally bit the
dust. It was a cheap 14" saw my brother gave me but was variable speed
and worked great for cutting aluminum. The problem is the company that
built it is no longer around so parts may not be available.
With the thought that I may have to replace it in mind, I would like to
solicit some recommendations from my fellow builders.
What bandsaw would you recommend for cutting aluminum."
_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
_-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
_-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
_-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
_-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
_-_-= List Contribution Web Site
_-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_-_-= Thank you for your generous support!
_-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_-_-=====================================================================
_-= - The RV9-List Email Forum -
_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
_-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other
_-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
_-=====================================================================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
there was a short thread a couple of months ago about mounting the Dynon pitot
bracket. I was not clear on the suggestions and haven't been able to noodle through
the process on my own. The hole called out on the plans is drilled, but
it seems problematic to mount the dynon pitot there. Help
John 90616
there was a short thread a couple of months ago about mounting the Dynon pitot
bracket. I was not clear on the suggestions and haven't been able to noodle through
the process on my own. The hole called out on the plans is drilled, but
it seems problematic to mount the dynon pitot there. Help
John 90616
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bandsaw question |
Bill,
The little Delta seems to be very popular and a good buy; often on sale.
I went with a Grizzly and doubt that I have anything much better. Grizzly
sells a variety of blades & you may be able to get one from them to fit
whatever you buy. Can also have blades custom made--there are shops with
blade welding machines that can take bulk blade stock and weld it to
whatever length you need, so any tooth count density can be had.
Richard Scott
RV-9 Emp
At 06:42 PM 11/14/2004, you wrote:
>
>It seems the old bandsaw I had been using might have finally bit the
>dust. It was a cheap 14" saw my brother gave me but was variable speed
>and worked great for cutting aluminum. The problem is the company that
>built it is no longer around so parts may not be available.
>
>With the thought that I may have to replace it in mind, I would like to
>solicit some recommendations from my fellow builders.
>
>What bandsaw would you recommend for cutting aluminum.
>
>Bill
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Bandsaw question |
Thanks for all of you who replied. I was able to find the part I
needed, which was a new drive belt. The company that made my saw went
out of business 11 years ago and I was having a hard time locating a
replacement belt.
It turns out that my drive belt is just a VERY big O-ring and I was able
to locate them on the web today. I should have a replacement in three
days.
As for bandsaw blades, I found a very good site for ordering custom
blades, www.ebandsawblades.com. I should have a new batch of blades,
cut to my custom length by next week. (18 TPI, 1/4" X 57")
(The saw I have I would never recommend for woodworking but seems to
work good on the light cutting required for the -9 and does have a 14"
throat, which works out well. More so since it has three speeds and I
can slow it down for cutting metal.)
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Bandsaw question
Bill,
The little Delta seems to be very popular and a good buy; often on sale.
I went with a Grizzly and doubt that I have anything much better.
Grizzly
sells a variety of blades & you may be able to get one from them to fit
whatever you buy. Can also have blades custom made--there are shops
with
blade welding machines that can take bulk blade stock and weld it to
whatever length you need, so any tooth count density can be had.
Richard Scott
RV-9 Emp
At 06:42 PM 11/14/2004, you wrote:
>
>It seems the old bandsaw I had been using might have finally bit the
>dust. It was a cheap 14" saw my brother gave me but was variable speed
>and worked great for cutting aluminum. The problem is the company that
>built it is no longer around so parts may not be available.
>
>With the thought that I may have to replace it in mind, I would like to
>solicit some recommendations from my fellow builders.
>
>What bandsaw would you recommend for cutting aluminum.
>
>Bill
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)abac.com> |
| Subject: | W-918 aileron pushrod |
Just received my wing kit this Saturday and while completing the inventory found
that I didn't have an ST4130-035X1/2X 48". I was sent one only 38" long. Looking
at DWG.15 it shows the pushrod needing to be 27 1/8 inches long. I assume
that the intent was to cut the 48" rod in half and end hardwre makes up the
remaining 3 1/8 inches. My question is, what is the proper length on the pushrod?
is the DWG correct or is the 38" rod long enough to fabricate two pushrods
(~22" long).
Bill 90930 (N930RV Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Richardson <rv9flyer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W-918 aileron pushrod |
Bill, If you look at the print again, you will find that the pushrod
is 27 1/8 from bolt center to bolt center. 22 inches comes to mind as what
I made both of mine, but I can't remember if there is a part of an inch there
or not. I determined the length by turning my bearing ends onto the tube insert
to the point where I wanted them to rest setting adjustment freeplay. Again
if memory serves me correctly, I turned the screw into the rod end to the
halfway point, which is required by building practices, and then I split the
difference of the remaining screw. I then placed the bosses that sit against
the tube end together, and placed the center of the bearing at 27 1/8 inch on
a tape measure, and the resultant length appearing in the center of the other
bearing is what the tube needs to be cut to. I still managed to screw my first
one up so the caveat of measure three times and cut once doubly applies here.
Good luck, and keep pounding rivets.
Greg
Bill Cary wrote:
Just received my wing kit this Saturday and while completing the inventory found
that I didn't have an ST4130-035X1/2X 48". I was sent one only 38" long. Looking
at DWG.15 it shows the pushrod needing to be 27 1/8 inches long. I assume
that the intent was to cut the 48" rod in half and end hardwre makes up the remaining
3 1/8 inches. My question is, what is the proper length on the pushrod?
is the DWG correct or is the 38" rod long enough to fabricate two pushrods
(~22" long).
Bill 90930 (N930RV Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon/Gretz mounting problem |
John, take a look at the mount offered at
http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm. It may fit without modification,
unlike the Gretz mount. The safeair1 mount is cheaper and requires
painting, but so does the Dynon probe. Bill Repucci posted some pictures
somewhere showing the modification needed to the Gretz mount.
Leland
"there was a short thread a couple of months ago about mounting the Dynon pitot
bracket. I was not clear on the suggestions and haven't been able to noodle through
the process on my own. The hole called out on the plans is drilled, but
it seems problematic to mount the dynon pitot there. Help
John 90616"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | W-918 aileron pushrod |
I got the wrong push rod too. Van's sent me another.
Bryan
From: "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)abac.com>
Subject: RV9-List: W-918 aileron pushrod
Just received my wing kit this Saturday and while completing the inventory
found
that I didn't have an ST4130-035X1/2X 48". I was sent one only 38" long.
Looking
at DWG.15 it shows the pushrod needing to be 27 1/8 inches long. I assume
that the intent was to cut the 48" rod in half and end hardwre makes up the
remaining 3 1/8 inches. My question is, what is the proper length on the
pushrod?
is the DWG correct or is the 38" rod long enough to fabricate two pushrods
(~22" long).
Bill 90930 (N930RV Res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | fuel/ Vent line length |
Has anyone measured the distance from the fuselage to wing tank fittings
(fuel and vent)? I have already drilled my wing angles and forgot to measure
the length for where to put the tubing flare on the fuel and vent lines.
Thanks!
Wayne Williams
Danville, VA
RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)abac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W-918 aileron pushrod |
SNIP
> Just received my wing kit this Saturday and while completing the inventory
found that I didn't have an ST4130-035X1/2X 48". I was sent one only 38"
long.
First, thanks for all the help. I emailed Van's support department today
and they replied back within 2 hours. Indeed I was sent the wrong length
rod. They will be sending another 36" rod so I'll be cutting both of them
down to something like 23". Glad I took the time to measure and glance at
the drawings during inventory.
Bill 90930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Richardson <rv9flyer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W-918 aileron pushrod |
Bill,
Glad you got it straightened out. I dug back into my files and memory, and
found that I had cut both of my pushrods to 22 7/16". Again, measure three times
and cut twice, but that is what I found mine to work out to for what its worth.
Good luck and keep pounding rivets.
Greg (RV9A fuselage)
Bill Cary wrote:
SNIP
> Just received my wing kit this Saturday and while completing the inventory
found that I didn't have an ST4130-035X1/2X 48". I was sent one only 38"
long.
First, thanks for all the help. I emailed Van's support department today
and they replied back within 2 hours. Indeed I was sent the wrong length
rod. They will be sending another 36" rod so I'll be cutting both of them
down to something like 23". Glad I took the time to measure and glance at
the drawings during inventory.
Bill 90930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Dck - why do you say it must be mounted further aft? Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Tasker
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RE:
Now, if you are actually asking about where to mount the Gretz mount on
the wing, then you are correct that the hole location recommended by
Van's for the standard pitot is not suitable. The Gretz mount must be
located more aft in the wing skin. I believe (if I remember correctly)
that the Gretz mount comes with appropriate instructions for this aspect.
Dick Tasker
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
I assumed that you were referring to the hole in the spar flange and
bottom skin as recommended by Van's for their standard pitot tube.
The Gretz mount is designed to be mounted on the bottom skin aft of the
spar flange.
Dick
Steve Sampson wrote:
>
>Dck - why do you say it must be mounted further aft? Steve.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Tasker
>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: RE:
>
>
>Now, if you are actually asking about where to mount the Gretz mount on
>the wing, then you are correct that the hole location recommended by
>Van's for the standard pitot is not suitable. The Gretz mount must be
>located more aft in the wing skin. I believe (if I remember correctly)
>that the Gretz mount comes with appropriate instructions for this aspect.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>---
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
I think the reason the Dynon Pitot tube is mounted further aft is this
pitot tube incorporates the ports for their AOA.
The instructions that come with the Gretz mount show you exactly where
to mount it, which is a few inches further aft than where Van's places
the their simple pitot tube.
Since my -9 isn't flying yet, I have no idea if where I placed it will
work or not. I just assumed the location recommended by Gretz was
accurate. There is a picture of the pitot tube installation on the wing
page of my web site.
Back to building.
Bill
RV-9 (Yes, with the little wheel in back.)
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
Fuselage
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Sampson
Subject: RE: RV9-List: RE:
-->
Dck - why do you say it must be mounted further aft? Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Tasker
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RE:
Now, if you are actually asking about where to mount the Gretz mount on
the wing, then you are correct that the hole location recommended by
Van's for the standard pitot is not suitable. The Gretz mount must be
located more aft in the wing skin. I believe (if I remember correctly)
that the Gretz mount comes with appropriate instructions for this
aspect.
Dick Tasker
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm new to the site. I'm trying to decide between the 7A and the 9A. I'm not interested
in the aerobatics, just good flying, some good xcountries, insurance
rates, and something that's not a handful. The 9 seems the ticket, but a lot
of others are intent on future desires to do aerobatics..
any opinions. And by the way, how long after the empennage kit is ordered does
it take to deliver?
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV 9A questions |
Hi Ron,
I think emp kits are in stock and you usually get same day shipping. It
just depends where you are but I think 5 days is normal.
I'm flying my RV-9 and love it. But I don't know if if I would try to talk
you out of a 7. The 9 is really easy to fly. I have a problem getting
consistant good landings. It is a real springy gear and likes to bounce.
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 9A questions |
Ron Brown wrote:
>
>I'm new to the site. I'm trying to decide between the 7A and the 9A. I'm not interested
in the aerobatics, just good flying, some good xcountries, insurance
rates, and something that's not a handful. The 9 seems the ticket, but a lot
of others are intent on future desires to do aerobatics..
>any opinions. And by the way, how long after the empennage kit is ordered does
it take to deliver?
>Tks
>Ron
>
If I was sure I wouldn't want acro in the future, I'd probably build the
-9. Virtually no penalty in cruise at the same hp & significantly lower
landing speeds=potentially safer operation. Of course, you aren't
supposed to go over 160hp & that will limit cruise speeds when compared
to a 200hp -7....
Charlie
flying acro in a -4; -7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 9A questions |
Ron,
Folks at Van's told me that the 9 is such a nice plane that if any of the
employees were going somewhere & they had a choice the ALL chose the
9. This was before the 10 came along. So if aerobatics are not in your
future, that suggests to me that the 9 is an obvious choice. BUT, a friend
is building a 7 and is about as far along as I am, finishing up the
emp. It looks like the 7 emp is easier to build and the instructions
definitely are laid out better. What I remember is that there is only one
trailing edge wedge on the 7 (less drilling, dimpling/countersinking, less
room for error, less fussing) and the skins are usually heavier (less
chance of screwing up by denting a skin). I think there were a couple
other things, also. OTOH, he might see some things on the 9 that seem easier.
So if all other things were equal and ease of building was a concern, I
would go with the 7, but if flying characteristics were important do the 9.
And Dennis, if you bounce a lot, you may be touching down too fast. I had
the same problem with my '41 Interstate Cadet. Took it up on a dead calm
morning, checked the ASI against a handheld GPS in 4 directions and when
the ASI showed 60 the GPS said 75! Started landing slower & that solved
the problem.
Richard Scott
At 11:35 AM 11/21/2004, you wrote:
>
>I'm new to the site. I'm trying to decide between the 7A and the 9A. I'm
>not interested in the aerobatics, just good flying, some good xcountries,
>insurance rates, and something that's not a handful. The 9 seems
>the ticket, but a lot of others are intent on future desires to do
>aerobatics..
>any opinions. And by the way, how long after the empennage kit is ordered
>does it take to deliver?
>Tks
>Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SkyKing <skyking135(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 9A questions |
Ron,
I also struggled with that decision. I ultimately chose the -9A because
it better suited my mission profile, i.e., cross-country day/night VFR.
I'm a low-time pilot, looking for good cruise, economy and low insurance
rates.
I think you answered your own question. If I choose to go the
aerobatics route, I'll buy/build something else. I think there are
probably better aerobatic platforms on the market than the -7.
Ron Brown wrote:
>
>I'm new to the site. I'm trying to decide between the 7A and the 9A. I'm not interested
in the aerobatics, just good flying, some good xcountries, insurance
rates, and something that's not a handful. The 9 seems the ticket, but a lot
of others are intent on future desires to do aerobatics..
>any opinions. And by the way, how long after the empennage kit is ordered does
it take to deliver?
>Tks
>Ron
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
I'm new to the site. I'm trying to decide between the 7A and the 9A
Ron,
I previously built and flew an RV-6. Having about 50 hours in my 9A I can tell
you it is a delightful flier. It is much more stable in cruise than the -6,
and is just as nimble in any nonaerobatic manuever. It is very easy to
consistently land well in my hands. I used wood stiffeners on the main gear
and do not find it at all springy. I believe it is more forgiving of aft CG
loading than the -6 was. I also believe it will be easier to sell if you ever
decide to, as any Cessna driver could convert with 2 hours of instruction.
I'll be glad to answer any other questions off line.
Don Piermattei
N192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
What engine are most thinking of using? I'm leaning towards an 0-360 180hp
fixed pitch.
Seems to me the extra 20hp (over the recommended 160hp) will make up for not
having a CS prop on climb.
Wayne
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
I am probably going with a 160 HP 0-320 and a constant speed prop
because of landing at my farm which is only 1200 feet long.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Williams
Subject: RV9-List: Engines
What engine are most thinking of using? I'm leaning towards an 0-360
180hp fixed pitch. Seems to me the extra 20hp (over the recommended
160hp) will make up for not having a CS prop on climb.
Wayne
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Moak" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Wayne
Superior Engines has a paper on using the 0-360 on the 9. If I remember
correctly they are saying restrict power on take off, but have it available
at altitude. Might check their web site. I am really considering it.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Williams
Subject: RV9-List: Engines
What engine are most thinking of using? I'm leaning towards an 0-360 180hp
fixed pitch.
Seems to me the extra 20hp (over the recommended 160hp) will make up for not
having a CS prop on climb.
Wayne
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
Wayne,
Just bought a 160 hp O-320 780 hours TTSN out of an RV-6A trashed by
Hurricane Charlie. Leaning toward a three blade Catto prop in cruise
configuration (66" diameter X 70" pitch by their way of measurement.)
Catto seems to be a good compromise for my flying, and all props, even CS,
are compromises. Light weight, quieter than two blade, not too expensive,
and with proven performance. Hope it works out as well as the theory!
Good luck on your choice!
Bob Kelly, 90854
On 11/23/04, Wayne Williams wrote:
>
> What engine are most thinking of using? I'm leaning towards an 0-360 180hp
> fixed pitch.
> Seems to me the extra 20hp (over the recommended 160hp) will make up for
> not having a CS prop on climb.
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
I think I would talk to Van's before going with a bigger engine. I have a
150 HP 0-320 and it will drag me along 190 MPH, gross loaded. The 0-360 must
weigh more and would complicate weight and balance. It would seem easy to over
stress the air frame and just really what are the advantages?
Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)AOL.COM |
Get an eci 160 hp kit for that thing..You will love it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
Dennis, It is only 8 lbs more but will come in handy in my high DA
environment. I spoke with a Vans engineer at OSH who told me it would work
fine, as long as you don't exceed Vne or redline. That was off the record
of course. I will probably go with the ECI O-360. Glenn in AZ. -9 Fuse.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Engines
>
> I think I would talk to Van's before going with a bigger engine. I have a
> 150 HP 0-320 and it will drag me along 190 MPH, gross loaded. The 0-360
must
> weigh more and would complicate weight and balance. It would seem easy to
over
> stress the air frame and just really what are the advantages?
>
> Dennis Thomas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi there:
Ive received an e-mail from Sensenich about a vibration coupling between an O-320,
9:1
high compression pistons Aerosport engine and a 70" x 82" Sensenich prop.
Does anyone has some info about it?
Thanks in advance
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
RV-9A QB
#90997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Wayne,
I am going that route also. By having pitch of the prop set for
cruise, you should not get over 2500 rpm on take off (less than 160 hp)
and when you get up to alt. the extra 20 hp will get us on our way. This
is from the Mahlon (sp) at Mattituck. I have it heard that this makes
our bird a "Super 9" :-))))
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdellangelo(at)netzero.com" <sdellangelo(at)netzero.com> |
I am going to use an O-320-E3D that I got used "mid time". I will overhaul with
9:1 pistons, probably a single lightspeed, probably Ellison TBI (since it did
not come with a carb) and maybe an ASI cam. Hoping for around 170hp without
the extra 8ish pounds. Going to use a Sensenich 70 X 81" or 82" prop.
If I had not found the used engine I was planning to do the ECI O-360 kit or else
the O-320 kit with overhauled rods.
Scott DellAngelo
#90598 - Fuselage all drilled and starting to come apart for the last time tonight
Plainfield, IL
NetZero HiSpeed $14.95.
Visit Sam Goody, Suncoast or MediaPlay Stores.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdellangelo(at)netzero.com" <sdellangelo(at)netzero.com> |
>Hi there:
>Ive received an e-mail from Sensenich about a vibration coupling >between an
>O-320,
>9:1
>high compression pistons Aerosport engine and a 70" x 82" Sensenich
>prop.
>Does anyone has some info about it?
>Thanks in advance
>JC - Aracaju - Brasil
>RV-9A QB
>#90997
JC,
Let me know what you find out as this list has been/is my plan. 9:1 and Sensenich
81 or 82.
I wonder how Catto props stand up to flight in the rain? Maybe I should check
into one of them as people seem to like them and you lose the 2600 rpm restriction
I bet.
Scott DellAngelo
#90598 Fuselage
Plainfield, IL
NetZero HiSpeed $14.95.
Visit Sam Goody, Suncoast or MediaPlay Stores.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip lenses |
Hi John,
Mine came as 1peice. It looks a small bubble and you need to cut it in half
to make the 2 lenses. Pretty simple and straight forward task.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip lenses |
after cutting and fitting, how did you attach it to the fairing. did you do more
than "eye-ball" the position/strobe to the fairing?
Thanks,
John
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Hi John,
> Mine came as 1peice. It looks a small bubble and you need to cut it in half
> to make the 2 lenses. Pretty simple and straight forward task.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
>
>
after cutting and fitting, how did you attach it to the fairing. did you do more
than "eye-ball" the position/strobe to the fairing?
Thanks,
John
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773(at)aol.com
Hi John,
Mine came as 1peice. It looks a small bubble and you need to cut it in half
to make the 2 lenses. Pretty simple and straight forward task.
Dennis
tronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi John,
I don't have the specifics, but I do know a great website where you can get
some information with great pictures of how to "Install Wingtip Lens". Randy
Pflanzer has a great website where he is buidling his F1 Rocket. If you go to
the site and look at his section on installing the wingtip lens, you'll get some
great information. Check it out.
http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/index.html
Hope this helps.....
Richard Hebert
RV-9A Empenage Complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: RV9-List: wing tip lenses
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi Scott Delllangelo:
I live in the northeast region of Brasil, and in the summer time weve got a lot
of
sparsed rain in our heading. My last airplane, a FASCINATION (Germany ultralight
airplane), had a composite propeller, and Ive got a lot problems in the leading
edge
surface.
http://www.cattoprops.com/index.html
This is the answer from Mr Craig, form rep Catto Propellers about it.:
"Hello JC,
The way that my propeller is manufactured, the type of composite
structure is very durable to rain... Here is how it works.... I have
many customers in eastern US and rain is a big concern there..
If you pull the rpm back to 2200 to 2300 rpm, you will not have any
erosion at all of the leading edge in medium rain... However in your
situation, an area of lots of rain, I would highly recommend the use of
PropGuard Leading Edge Tape.. I stock the material and install it on
propellers for my customers for this type of flying.
With the PropGuard Tape installed, you can fly through rain at full
throttle and not hurt anything.. The cost is only $85 for the three
bladed prop installed.. It will last about 2 to 3 years, you pull it off
and install new tape.. It is very easy to install and is STC'd.
Regards,
Craig Catto"
Gimme an answer.
JC
RV-9A QB
#90997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip lenses |
I used # 6 nutplates and countersink machine screws, at first 1 each, top and
bottom on the rear inside corner. After flying a bit they seem to lifting
some so I added another nutplate on the bottom, halfway between the rear corner
and leading edge.
I have the combination,strobe and position lights and did just eyeball their
location. Be sure they are far enough to the rear that they will be clear of
the lense surface.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Richard/Bill - Sorry not to come back sooner, but I have been away. Yes I
guess the center of the mount is very slightly aft, however the head itself
is in fact further forward. I have just pulled out the VANS and Gretz
instructions since you had me worried. In fact I doubt it is that sensitive
in practice either. I also have not yet flown.
Regards, Steve.
#90360
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
thanks. it looks to be a great resource.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Hi John,
> I don't have the specifics, but I do know a great website where you can get
> some information with great pictures of how to "Install Wingtip Lens". Randy
> Pflanzer has a great website where he is buidling his F1 Rocket. If you go to
> the site and look at his section on installing the wingtip lens, you'll get some
> great information. Check it out.
>
> http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/index.html
>
> Hope this helps.....
>
> Richard Hebert
> RV-9A Empenage Complete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: wing tip lenses
>
>
>
> does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in
the
> point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
>
> John Kerr
> 90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
>
> does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in
the
> point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
>
> John Kerr
> 90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
>
>
>
>
>
>
thanks. it looks to be a great resource.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: "Hebert, Richard" <RICHARD.HEBERT@T-MOBILE.COM>
Hi John,
I don't have the specifics, but I do know a great website where you can get
some information with great pictures of how to "Install Wingtip Lens". Randy
Pflanzer has a great website where he is buidling his F1 Rocket. If you go to
the site and look at his section on installing the wingtip lens, you'll get some
great information. Check it out.
http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/index.html
Hope this helps.....
Richard Hebert
RV-9A Empenage Complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrj
ohna(at)comcast.net
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV9-List: wing tip lenses
-- RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
does anyone have suggestions/instructions for installing the clear lenses in the
point of the wing tip. If I had any they have been "misfiled".
John Kerr
90616, finishing wiring,assembly, etc pre-paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Watson Colleen" <watsoca(at)msn.com> |
I have about 200 hours on my RV-9A with a 160hp engine and the 79 pitch Senesenich
prop. I settled on this option after reading Van's article in the forth issue,
2001, of the RVator on why not to use more than 160hp.
I have developed the following numbers over the 200 hours and you may wish to use
them in considering your final engine and prop choice. Full throttle at 8000'
is 188 miles an hour and 2580 RPM. Not an area one would want to cruise at
with the 2600 limit. Therefore, I cruse at 2450 and 180 miles an hour. At
this power setting the true airspeed is maintained over a wide range of altitudes.
I fly with a group of RV-6's (most with 180 HP and constant speed props).
They say they have to reduce their power about 1"MP for me to stay up with
them. A T-18 also flies with us and he and I have identical airspeed for the
same RPM. I am based at an elevation of 5600' and on initial takeoff roll I get
2230 RPM. The initial climb is never less than 1000ft/min. With a normal
range of 1000 to 1500 ft/min.
Performance wise I am very happy with this combination and feel it was the right
choice and does not exceed the designers limits.
The one thing I am still working on is how to get it slowed down to the 100mph
initial flap speed and not fly a very long pattern. The airplane is very clean
and will gain speed very quickly if one lowers the nose just a little and you
will not be able to get it to flap speed. A constant speed prop would be nice
to help this flight dynamic. The trade off is the forward CG. If one does
go to a constant speed prop you may wish to calculate the impact on the CG and
plan accordingly.
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
I really appreciate everyone's input on engine/ props. Some great
information and widely diverse opinions.
Wayne
Danville, Va
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vert Stab...lighting? |
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
I am getting ready to start on my VS and am reading ahead in the manual. I noticed
that it stated I should include lighting or provisions for lighting prior
to closing up with the rear spar. I was under the impression that I could hold
off for a while until I plunged in to the lighting of the aircraft. What exactly
should I be doing at this point? Does Van mean that I should just be sure
to allow a straight shot opening to the upper fiberglass (which I will be doing
much much later) or do I have to drop the cash and wire in my lighting package
now? Also, do most of you install some kind tubing to later serve as conduit?
Thanks as always.
Will #91056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tod Watkins" <twatkins(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Vert Stab...lighting? |
Lighting can be done later.. tubing is a good idea, especially in the
wings but not required in most places if you tie it well so as not to
rub or move much. However we used tubing most places as it makes it
easier to add things later if needed. We are at the engine stage and
just now working on lights so you do not need to get in a huge rush yet
but always good to think ahead as to how you will accomplish it when the
time comes.. Good luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Couvillon
Subject: RV9-List: Vert Stab...lighting?
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
I am getting ready to start on my VS and am reading ahead in the manual.
I noticed that it stated I should include lighting or provisions for
lighting prior to closing up with the rear spar. I was under the
impression that I could hold off for a while until I plunged in to the
lighting of the aircraft. What exactly should I be doing at this point?
Does Van mean that I should just be sure to allow a straight shot
opening to the upper fiberglass (which I will be doing much much later)
or do I have to drop the cash and wire in my lighting package now?
Also, do most of you install some kind tubing to later serve as conduit?
Thanks as always.
Will #91056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vert Stab...lighting? |
You just need to decide where your going to locate your rear nav light, if
your going to install one. The top of the vert stab or the rudder bottom are
comon places to put them. Wherever you put them you will need to be sure you can
accomodate wire.
I put mine on the rear of the rudder bottom, put a disconnect at the front
and then put spiral wrap around it until it passed throught the main spar of the
vert stab.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
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support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few
days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time!
Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
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http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on mail5.iserv.net
My intention is a 160hp IO-320 with C.S. prop. The biggest reason? There
are no rpm restrictions on the 320. When I fly, I don't want to have to
remember what rpms aren't good for constant operation on the third Tuesday
of months that end in "R", etc. I've seen the posts about true horsepower
at 7,500 feet, but I'll settle for the lower power and go with Van's
recommendation - he knows the plane more than I do. I live in lower
elevations, so high-altitude take-off operations will be rare to
non-existent.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Engines
>
> What engine are most thinking of using? I'm leaning towards an 0-360 180hp
> fixed pitch.
> Seems to me the extra 20hp (over the recommended 160hp) will make up for
not
> having a CS prop on climb.
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
does anyone have some hints for getting the wheel pants in the right position?
1" spacer, joggle lined up with the bracket 808 and no way to get the middle
of the trailing edge up to 8 5/8".......
does anyone have some hints for getting the wheel pants in the right position?
1" spacer, joggle lined up with the bracket 808 and no way to get the middle of
the trailing edge up to 8 5/8".......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "coolmate_04(at)cashette.com" <no-reply(at)cashette.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel fairings |
Dear Friend:
Thank you for your email. Your message has not reached my Inbox because you are
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-----Original Message:-----
From: kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: RV9-List: wheel fairings
__________________________
Cashette stops spam. 100% effective and free! Go to http://home.cashette.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | The Skinny on LOE |
Well, after calling the Chamber of Commerce, Mayors Office, and other various city
and airport offices, I think I finally got the skinny on why LOE is moving.
Once again, it boils down to personalities and politics. I was told there
is a personality conflict between Red and the owners of Adventure Aviation. Red
decided to pull out. The details I was given do not bear repeating, but IMHO
I think both parties should work out their differences, especially in light
of the post on Doug Reeves site questioning the new facilities. I spoke with
the staff of Adventure Aviation, who assured me they will be hosting and welcoming
the fly-in again next year and hopefully in the years to come. They have
already send out invitation cards to people who registered this past year, and
are planning on sending out more cards in the future.. So LOE 2005 at Las
Cruces is on! I hope this helps folks out. I was just a curious party. Glenn
in Arizona -9A fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dedgemon(at)knology.net" <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
Hi folks.
Here are some more performance numbers for those who are interested.
I've only flown about 15 hours on my new 9A but I'm starting to develop a
feel for the performance. Yesterday I finally installed the main wheel
pants and gear leg fairings. The nosewheel and leg are still bare.
8000' density altitude. Full throttle (21.5" MAP) and 2650 rpm resulted in
162 knots TAS.
8000' density altitude. Full throttle (21.5" MAP) and 2400 rpm resulted in
155 knots TAS.
I saw a 10-12 knot increase by installing the mainwheel pants and gear
fairings. I would guess that the nose gear pant and fairings would give me
another 4-5 knots, so that'll put it at about 166-167 knots.
I'm using an Aerosport O-320 D1A with a Hartzell prop. Empty weight is
1080 lbs. Loading for the above numbers was 1080 for the plane, 210 for
the pilot, and 150 for the fuel.
Initial climb rate for this setup at full throttle and 2650 rpm was 1900-
2000 fpm at 100 knots. At 25" and 2500 rpm I was seeing 1300-1400 fpm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi "dedgemon(at)knology.net"
Thanks for the numbers. Keep going and send us new and so good numbers.
Is your O-320 D1A configured with high compression pistons?
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
RV-9A QB
#90997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
Fellow builders,
I am sealing up my fuel tanks and wanted some information about curing time and
temperature.
When I began sealing (multiple day event) a cold front came in and the temperature
dropped in the 50's during the day (shop temp around 60). Shop temp dropped
during the night to low 50's I think. The next day it was a little warmer
heated the shop a little (small electric heater) shop temp around 65. Nighttime
temp mid 50's. Next day warmer still, nighttime temps mid 50's. Then rather
cold again with nighttime temps below freezing, shop time overnight high 40's
I think.
During the sealing process (using cartridges) I would dispense about half the cartridge
and refrigerate the remainder. About 2 to 3 hours later I would use
the remainder stored in the refrigerator.
As I mentioned I had several sealing sessions and am finding that the ProSeal is
curing at different rates. Some are rather slow, some are faster.
What have others experienced when it came to temperature and time? How long does
it take to cure when experiencing the temperature swings like I have.
I now am running the heater all night to keep the shop warmer.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Re-application of Proseal over Proseal |
Fellow builders,
I am in the process of sealing my tanks and am ready to install the rear baffle.
The inboard and outboard ribs when install/sealed a few days ago. After examining
some of the filleting on the inside of the inboard and outboard ribs,
I may want to add some additional sealant to increase the fillet in a few locations.
What preparation other then cleaning with MEK/Acetone is recommended?
Even though I worked in a open/ventilated shop, I inhaled way to many MEK and ProSeal
fumes during the sealing process over the last week. Know wonder my Thanksgiving
dinner tasted like ProSeal.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dedgemon(at)knology.net" <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
JC,
My O-320 is a stock D1A which is 160HP with 8.5:1 pistons. Nothing fancy
except for ignition. I'm running one Slick impulse mag on the left side and
a lighspeed electronic on the right side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Suggestion for drilling the hinge points in the tip-up canopy |
frame.
Take it for what it's worth.. but here is what I did to drill the hinge
point hole in the WD-716 TIP-UP canopy frame.
So you've done all the drilling of the plastic hinge blocks and have them in
position. You have the tip-up frame in place with the C-702 skin cleco'd
on. Now the instructions tell you to drill a 1/4" hole in the hinge point
using the 1/4" hole in the blocks as a guide.. and to only drill enough to
get the hole started... AND to use an angle drill to do it since you have
limited access. Well.. I didn't have a threaded 1/4" bit to use with my
angle drill and I didn't want to stick a normal bit in there and just mark
it as that would leave room for error, so I had to get creative. What
resulted is what I _think_ is a better way of drilling these holes.
I bought a piece of 1/4" OD 4130 steel tube from the local airparts store
with a wall thickness of .049. I then enlarged the ID hole to #19. I cut a
~1" piece off and then inserted that piece into the 1/4" hole already in the
plastic block. Then I used my threaded #19 drill bit in the angle drill to
drill a pilot hole. I did this to both sides then pulled the frame off and
enlarged the holes to the correct size. (If you have a 3" bit, I would go
ahead and drill all the way through, I can't see a reason not too. My short
1" bit wasn't getting the shavings out, so I only went deep enough to get a
good start on the hole.)
Using the short piece of pipe gives you a very accurate positioning of the
drill bit without a chance of enlarging the hole in the plastic blocks. It
also takes away any possible error if you had just marked the hole and
drilled.
Again, take it FWIW.
Matthew
RV-9A Finishing
http://www.n523rv.com
#90569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight - N937RK |
First time builders, Ron and Kandy Murray our proud to announce that the first
flight of their RV-9A, N937RK, serial number 90291, occurred on December 3, 2004
(12-3-4). It flew from Lake Norman Airpark, NC with 26,000 hour test pilot,
Van Lawless at the controls. It was a beautiful 30 minute flight with over
20 fellow builders and neighbors watching. The flight was uneventful with only
a slight heavy left wing reported. The airplane is complete with full paint
and basic interior. It took us 3 years and 8 months to build the "slow build"
for a total construction time of 2568 hours.
The airplane is equipped with an Aero Sport Power O-320-D2A engine, turning a 70
by 80 Sensenich fixed pitch prop. The panel is equipped with full IFR gyros,
an AOA, a full complement of Electronics International instruments, King KMD-150
color multiple function display, ICOM com, and Garmin transponder. The airplane
in full dress weighed in at 1106 pounds.
This is a day we have dreamed of, as we drove those rivets. It was an unbelievable
sight to see our labor of love flying over our heads. Hang in there builders,
your day will arrive before you know it!
Ron Murray, Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | empennage options |
I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some thoughts on the
electric elevator trim option. Where is the control switch mounted?
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
Ron,
I opted for the electric option. It costs a bit more, but is lighter and
allows more options in mounting the control. The switch can be mounted
almost anywhere, as long as it is in easy reach and not where it can be
pressed accidentally. If you are tall (as I am,) the manual control can
rub against your leg. Many prefer to have the trim on a "hat" switch on
the control stick, usually one on each stick. I am going with a centrally
mounted switch for ease of wiring.
All in all, it is just a preference. I think I could live with either
system.
On 12/06/04, Ron Brown wrote:
>
> I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some thoughts
> on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control switch mounted?
> Tks
> Ron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight - N937RK |
Ron,
Congratulations! May all your flights be as wonderful as that first flight.
Sharing your joy is the engine of our passion.
Bob Kelly, 90854
On 12/05/04, Ron Murray wrote:
>
> First time builders, Ron and Kandy Murray our proud to announce that the
> first flight of their RV-9A, N937RK, serial number 90291, occurred on
> December 3, 2004 (12-3-4). It flew from Lake Norman Airpark, NC with
> 26,000 hour test pilot, Van Lawless at the controls. It was a beautiful 30
> minute flight with over 20 fellow builders and neighbors watching. The
> flight was uneventful with only a slight heavy left wing reported. The
> airplane is complete with full paint and basic interior. It took us 3
> years and 8 months to build the "slow build" for a total construction time
> of 2568 hours.
>
>
> The airplane is equipped with an Aero Sport Power O-320-D2A engine,
> turning a 70 by 80 Sensenich fixed pitch prop. The panel is equipped with
> full IFR gyros, an AOA, a full complement of Electronics International
> instruments, King KMD-150 color multiple function display, ICOM com, and
> Garmin transponder. The airplane in full dress weighed in at 1106 pounds.
>
>
> This is a day we have dreamed of, as we drove those rivets. It was an
> unbelievable sight to see our labor of love flying over our heads. Hang in
> there builders, your day will arrive before you know it!
>
>
> Ron Murray, Mooresville, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Regards
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight - N937RK |
Congratulations. What a great accomplishment for you and your partner. Good
Luck and Happy Flying!
Dennis Thomas
RV9 N164DV
145 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
I am flying the 9 taildragger with electric trim. I did my transition
training in the factory 9 taildragger and it has manual trim. They both work quite
well and seemed easy enough to get used to. I think for actual ease of flying
I like the manual better but also think the electric is lighter and far
easier to install.
Dennis Thomas
RV9 N164DV
145 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
The control switch is usually mounted on the control stick. However, I prefer to
have
a trim wheel between the seats a la Grumman. This can be accomplished by using
Eric Jones's trim wheel that utilizes pulse width modulation to control a MAC servo.
Check it out on his web site at www.perihelion.com
Peter
On 5 Dec 2004 at 19:04, Ron Brown wrote:
>
> I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some
> thoughts on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control
> switch mounted? Tks Ron
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <imfairings(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight - N937RK |
Congratulations Ron and Kandy...I can see those RV smiles clear out here in Arizona.
Fly Safe...
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc.
bob@fairings-etc.com
>
> From: "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com>
> Date: 2004/12/05 Sun PM 05:38:11 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: First Flight - N937RK
>
>
> First time builders, Ron and Kandy Murray our proud to announce that the first
flight of their RV-9A, N937RK, serial number 90291, occurred on December 3,
2004 (12-3-4). It flew from Lake Norman Airpark, NC with 26,000 hour test pilot,
Van Lawless at the controls. It was a beautiful 30 minute flight with over
20 fellow builders and neighbors watching. The flight was uneventful with only
a slight heavy left wing reported. The airplane is complete with full paint
and basic interior. It took us 3 years and 8 months to build the "slow build"
for a total construction time of 2568 hours.
>
>
> The airplane is equipped with an Aero Sport Power O-320-D2A engine, turning a
70 by 80 Sensenich fixed pitch prop. The panel is equipped with full IFR gyros,
an AOA, a full complement of Electronics International instruments, King KMD-150
color multiple function display, ICOM com, and Garmin transponder. The
airplane in full dress weighed in at 1106 pounds.
>
>
> This is a day we have dreamed of, as we drove those rivets. It was an unbelievable
sight to see our labor of love flying over our heads. Hang in there builders,
your day will arrive before you know it!
>
>
> Ron Murray, Mooresville, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joosten, Craig" <CJoosten(at)infiltratorsystems.net> |
| Subject: | first flight N937RK |
Congratulations Ron & Kandy!
Please keep us posted as you build hours.
Craig
Congratulations
Ron Kandy!
Please
keep us posted as you build hours.
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight - N937RK |
Congratulations Ron, It only gets better from here!
I hope to catch up to you down at Sun-N-Fun this year.
Gary Newsted, 200 hours on the 9E and loving it more every flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SkyKing <skyking135(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
perihelion.com domain is for sale. Is he out of business?
plaurence@the-beach.net wrote:
>
>The control switch is usually mounted on the control stick. However, I prefer
to have
>a trim wheel between the seats a la Grumman. This can be accomplished by using
>Eric Jones's trim wheel that utilizes pulse width modulation to control a MAC
servo.
>
>Check it out on his web site at www.perihelion.com
>
>
>Peter
>
>On 5 Dec 2004 at 19:04, Ron Brown wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some
>>thoughts on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control
>>switch mounted? Tks Ron
>>
>>
>>advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
OOPS!
Try
http://www.periheliondesign.com/
On 6 Dec 2004 at 16:52, SkyKing wrote:
>
> perihelion.com domain is for sale. Is he out of business?
>
> plaurence@the-beach.net wrote:
>
> >
> >The control switch is usually mounted on the control stick. However,
> >I prefer to have a trim wheel between the seats a la Grumman. This
> >can be accomplished by using Eric Jones's trim wheel that utilizes
> >pulse width modulation to control a MAC servo.
> >
> >Check it out on his web site at www.perihelion.com
> >
> >
> >Peter
> >
> >On 5 Dec 2004 at 19:04, Ron Brown wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some
> >>thoughts on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control
> >>switch mounted? Tks Ron
> >>
> >>
> >>advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
As a daytime VFR pilot I am a fan of Van's "simple is better" thinking. I
have only PTT buttons on the sticks.
I would normally retrim after each throttle adjustment (take-off, landing,
altitude change, etc). These are times when you don't like to look down to
see what you are doing in the cockpit. Imagine how you hold a target
pistol. When I am holding the throttle in the fingers of my right hand the
pitch trim switch is just in front of my thumb. It is the only rocker
switch beside switches that push (to prime), rotate (to dim), toggle
(flaps), etc.
Sitting in my cockpit making airplane sounds it seems very intuitive, every
time. Requires no hand movement.
----- Original Message -----
From: <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: empennage options
>
> The control switch is usually mounted on the control stick. However, I
prefer to have
> a trim wheel between the seats a la Grumman. This can be accomplished by
using
> Eric Jones's trim wheel that utilizes pulse width modulation to control a
MAC servo.
>
> Check it out on his web site at www.perihelion.com
>
>
> Peter
>
> On 5 Dec 2004 at 19:04, Ron Brown wrote:
>
> >
> > I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some
> > thoughts on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control
> > switch mounted? Tks Ron
> >
> >
> > advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | EZ Pilot servo wing installation |
I=92m installing an EZ Pilot servo in my right wing tip, attached to the
last rib inside the wing tip. I=92m trying to figure out how to get from
the small rodend at the servo to a rodend that will attach to the
push-pull tube bolt, =BC=94. If someone has been there before and can give
me the tubing sizes it would save me a lot of time trying to figure out
what tube with what wall thickness will fit into the next tube etc.
Maybe I=92m looking at this wrong.
Thanks in advance.
Roger Ping
90869 working: fuselage, wings, installations=85etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
Has anyone had problems with wheel bearing grease being too thick? I
assembled my wheels last night and used a grease I had on hand labeled "High
temp disk brake bearing grease". It seeemed a little thicker than the stuff
that was on the main wheel bearings as delivered. At any rate I assembled
the wheels and they seems fairly hard to turn. The wheels all turn smoothly
but, It takes at least a few pounds of force on the tire to start them in
motion and there is definitely no "free-wheeling". Are everyones wheels this
stiff or is it just b/c I used thicker grease???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
Has anyone seen a trim wheel system installed in an RV ala cessna, piper instead
of the vernier control?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, , ,
| Subject: | Fuel tank to main skin gap? |
Fellow builders,
I just placed my finished left fuel tank (RV-7A) on my wing and noticed a gap between
the aft edge of the tank skin and the forward edge of the main skins on
my wing (top and bottom gap equal). I opted to wait to match drill and dimple
the leading edge junction until after sealing the tanks. I have measured the
edge distance of the screw holes in the tank skin and compared this to the center
distance from the nutplate holes (countersinked) to the forward edge of
the main tank skins, both are 5/16". So what this means is that there is a buildup
of tolerances or ProSeal that is pushing the tank forward slightly. I would
say that the gap is approximately 0.040. However the tank to leading edge
junction (at the nose) is pretty much of a perfect match. So the screw holes
in the tank don't line up with the nutplates perfectly. I was generous with
"buttering" the ProSeal on both the "Z" bracket and tank rib aft flanges but
not over generous. I know there is a very thin layer of ProSeal that maybe contributing
to this gap, but not that much. When I built my RV-4 (old school) you
could line everything up without any gaps because you put all the hole. With
the match punched, you can't adjust things at all.
What have other experienced after mounting the tanks.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
I've seen a picture somewhere on some RV builders website that had a trim
system in it. I can't remember where I saw it but if I do, I'll post it.
In the meantime, you might be able to get this mechanism to work for you.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/ranstrimsys.php
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: EZ Pilot servo wing installation |
Roger,
I would email Trio Avionics and ask them. I asked them about mounting it in
the wing itself near the bellcrank and they sent me some pictures of the
installation in an RV-7. I'm sure they'll tell you what sort of hardware
you need for mounting it in the wing-tip, since this is a common location.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Subaru Performance |
| From: | "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony(at)holidaycompanies.com> |
Anyone with a Subaru care to give us a status report on your numbers? Fuel consumption,
package type, maintenance costs, unexpected issues? I'd rather here
it from you than the manufacturers.
I'm thinking engines now, and I liked the NSI package (Eggenfellner, too) at Oshkosh,
but I'm still wondering.
Bruce Anthony
RV-9A, Wings
Rosemount, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear deck stiffeners.
I can't find a manual reference and the notation on the drawing of using
prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help with regard to adjusting the
length for proper fit.
John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear deck stiffeners.
I can't find a manual reference and the notation on the drawing of using
prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help with regard to adjusting the
length for proper fit.
John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru Performance |
Take a look at the archives on subaruaircraft(at)yahoogroups.com. There
has been a lot of discussion lately regarding performance. Also look at
the "NEW" page on www.eggenfellneraircraft.com where actual results are
posted.
Dick Tasker
Bruce Anthony wrote:
>
>Anyone with a Subaru care to give us a status report on your numbers? Fuel consumption,
package type, maintenance costs, unexpected issues? I'd rather here
it from you than the manufacturers.
>
>I'm thinking engines now, and I liked the NSI package (Eggenfellner, too) at Oshkosh,
but I'm still wondering.
>
>
>Bruce Anthony
>RV-9A, Wings
>Rosemount, MN
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
This comes up periodically. You can search the archives for one. I
have attached an answer I gave a few months ago.
Additionally I have pictures I can send but do you have broadband or
dialup?
Previous comments:
I just went through this (and have purchased two new to replace the ones
I cut too much!).
Basically, there were NO instructions in my plans (RV9A). I called
Van's and they sent me a single sheet printout that had more info, but
still no guidance.
Basically, you only have to cut a small amount from the top section so
it fits against the baggage bulkhead. Draw a line in the center of the
part where the holes will be drilled and start at the bottom drilling
and clecoing. The bottom section (next to the longeron) does not get
trimmed (unless you need to snip a bit from the flange so the part
doesn't rub the longeron. When you get near the top, the end should fit
under the skin so it shares one rivet with the skin/bulkhead. Carefully
trim a little from the rear flange and possibly from the main section
bit-by-bit until it will go under the skin and allow you to drill the
last rivet with the skin/bulkhead.
The trick is to trim just a little at a time. The first one I did, was
horrible (since I had no idea how to proceed). The second was pretty
good (could have been a little better but was acceptable). Since I had
to replace one, I just bought them both and will replace them both now
that I know how to do it.
Dick Tasker
P.S. They came out great this time!
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear deck stiffeners.
I can't find a manual reference and the notation on the drawing of
using prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help with regard to adjusting
the length for proper fit.
>
>John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
>
>can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear deck stiffeners.
I can't find a manual reference and the notation on the drawing of using
prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help with regard to adjusting the
length for proper fit.
>
>John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
John,
I had trouble with mine as well, and I was fortunate to have someone
else send me some pictures, so hopefully I can help you out.
I documented my installation at the following page:
http://www.my9a.com/fuse10.asp#111104
Hope this helps,
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Dec 9, 2004, at 10:09 AM, kerrjohna(at)comcast.net wrote:
can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear
deck stiffeners. I can't find a manual reference and the notation on
the drawing of using prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help
with regard to adjusting the length for proper fit.
John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
can anyone help me with the fitting and installation of the F6111 rear
deck stiffeners. I can't find a manual reference and the notation on
the drawing of using prepunched holes in skin as guide doesn't help
with regard to adjusting the length for proper fit.
John Kerr, getting to the final fit and finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill McBride <bmcb(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bearing grease |
Bryan, I'm just finishing up my 9-A and had the very same problem with especially
the nose wheel, but to a lesser extent the main wheels. I spoke to Ken at
Van's who said "they'll loosen up after a while," but still doesn't seem quite
right to me. So you're not alone.
Bill McBride
#90802
Bryan Flood wrote:
Has anyone had problems with wheel bearing grease being too thick? I
assembled my wheels last night and used a grease I had on hand labeled "High
temp disk brake bearing grease". It seeemed a little thicker than the stuff
that was on the main wheel bearings as delivered. At any rate I assembled
the wheels and they seems fairly hard to turn. The wheels all turn smoothly
but, It takes at least a few pounds of force on the tire to start them in
motion and there is definitely no "free-wheeling". Are everyones wheels this
stiff or is it just b/c I used thicker grease???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
John,
My kit didn't come with instructions either, but here is what I did.
First, I traced the shape of the F-6111 onto the back of a regular office
file folder and made a template. After cutting out the template, I placed it
against the skin and tried to figure out which part of the curve in the
template most closely matched the contour of the skin. I then marked a few
spots on the template to indicate where a few of the pre-punched holes in
the skin would meet the F-6111. Next, I folded the paper template at each
end to simulate the spots where I would cut the F-6111.
I then took the paper template and laid it back on the actual F-6111 and
marked the spots where I thought it should be cut. I then double-checked my
measurements and cut the F-6111. Next, I match-drilled the holes. As others
have mentioned, I then had to do some "trial and error" grinding to get it
to fit exactly the way I wanted it.
I ended up using the portion of the F-6111 that is between the tooling
holes. I believe that some builders have made the F-6111 a little longer
than mine and they have one of the tooling holes in the finished part. My
F-6111 starts about 1/8" above the longeron, but it does not overlap the
flange of the F-706 bulkhead. I tapered the flange of the F-6111 so it
rests next to the F-706 flange.
It took longer than I expected, but I'm happy with the results.
Hope this helps,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
Now they are painted the elevator with the electric trim in it is tail
heavy. Is it important they are balanced individually, or just as a pair
since they effectively become one?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
Hi Steve,
I've not heard this discussed before but my elevators are balanced as a pair.
If they were disconnected they would definitely not balance. My airplane is
flying just fine.
Dennis Thomas
90164 145 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
Dave - thanks for that. I was expecting (hoping) for a bit more response.
Steve #90360
PS 145 hours in how many months!?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DThomas773(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Elevator balance
Hi Steve,
I've not heard this discussed before but my elevators are balanced as a
pair.
If they were disconnected they would definitely not balance. My airplane is
flying just fine.
Dennis Thomas
90164 145 hours
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
First flight was Feb 20 this year. Keep hacking because you are building a
great little airplane.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
Steve,
If you mean the airplane is tail heavy in flight, you can adjust this by
shimming the front of the vertical stab. Adjust it so that the elevator is
neutral when you are straight and level. You will notice that the front
mount for the VS is designed so that this is quite easy. Don't go more that
.020 inch at a time.
If you mean the static balance of the elevator, paint could upset this a
bit. There is more elevator surface area on the trail side of the hinge.
Therefore more paint, more weight. Static balance is easily corredted by
adding or removing more weight.
The balance of the elevator, if I understand correctly is mostly to prevent
flutter. A slight imbalance should not have much of an effect at all in
flight. The effect of gravity on an elevator travelling at 100 KTS is
negligible compared to the aerodynamic forces.
If both elevators are static balanced individually, then the pair will be
static balanced when tied together. However on another pair, one could be
heavy on the leading side, the other equally heavy on the trailing side and
both would balance out as a pair. They would not balance individually.
Which is better? I don't know for sure, but I don't think it matters much
at all. I balanced mine individually, and it took no adjustments when they
were tied together as one. And it flys just fine.... REALLY fine.
Dale
> Now they are painted the elevator with the electric trim in it is tail
> heavy. Is it important they are balanced individually, or just as a pair
> since they effectively become one?
> Thanks, Steve.
> #90360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
Try Eric Jones' site at http://www.periheliondesigns.com
He has a trim wheel that can control a MAC or RAC servo so that the only
connection is two 22ga wires.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Trim Cable
>
> Has anyone seen a trim wheel system installed in an RV ala cessna, piper
> instead of the vernier control?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Actually you would do better to use http://www.periheliondesign.com
(no "s").
;-)
Dick Tasker
Peter Laurence wrote:
>
>Try Eric Jones' site at http://www.periheliondesigns.com
>
>He has a trim wheel that can control a MAC or RAC servo so that the only
>connection is two 22ga wires.
>
>Peter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: RV6-A lower cowl engine air intake seal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.12.18.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Bartel" <mainblades(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Has anyone put an 0-290 in a RV9/9A? |
New to the list and I'm curious if anyone has put an 0-290 in for power?
Suggestions?
Regrets?
Experiences?
All responses appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone put an 0-290 in a RV9/9A? |
Greg,
I have an O-290 that that will power my -9. I did talk to a gentleman
in Canada two weeks ago who built a -9A with this engine. (It is now for
sale in trade-a-plane due to a change in interest, read: antique car
restorations.) He spoke VERY highly of the combination and really
appreciated the cruise / GPH factor. He was truing at 170 mph (true)
with the low fuel burn of the -290. BTW, this was his second RV, the
first being a -320 powered -6 and he thought the -9A was a superior
aircraft. The prop he used was a 70" by 70" Colin Walker wood prop.
There are some comments from him on the "Things to Consider" page of my
web site, http://www.repucci.com/bill/things_to_consider.html.
I got a great deal on the -290 but it will need to have the accessory
case changed to one that can use a fuel pump, these are O-235 parts so
they are readily available, they just take time and money. I expect to
start pulling my engine apart in a few months so I will know more about
the conversion then.
Bill
RV-9
SN: 90737
Fuselage
N941WR (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Bartel
Subject: RV9-List: Has anyone put an 0-290 in a RV9/9A?
New to the list and I'm curious if anyone has put an 0-290 in for power?
Suggestions?
Regrets?
Experiences?
All responses appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com> |
| Subject: | Subject: Engines-List: Another O-290 for sale |
I posted this on the engines list and then figured why not spread it around.
Call me if you need any more info.
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
Ron wrote:
"If our friend still has it, there is a steal on a 0-290 that has been rebuilt
by
a professional aircraft engine builder. Dyno tested @ 140 HP. It is a certified
engine and the last asking price was $10,000. If interested, email Ron
at rgdplg(at)radiowire.net"
I too have an O-290 which I decided to sell. Please note this is not a certified
engine.
I bought this from a fellow Chapter 14 club member. It was used until fairly recently
in his Tailwind and reportedly has about 65 hours on it since a full rebuild.
It was removed when he decided to change to a Jabiru in the hopes (vain)
of getting more performance. It comes complete with several spares and engine
manuals. There is also a prop and spinner which I am willing to sell with
it.
It has been filled with 30 weight oil and the bores wiped with STP whilst I have
had it.
I live in the San Diego area but would be willing to deliver up to a couple of
hundred miles.
I am asking for $6,000 with the prop and spinner and $5,600 for just the engine.
Buyer to pay s & h if required.
For any more information please feel free to call me directly at 619 916 8059 or
email robshipley(at)gmail.com .
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Now planning on a Mazda Renesis engine!
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
After investigating a leak in the pitot line Dynon tell me not to worry
since it has a drain built in and this is the leak. However it raises the
issue as to how you test the pitot system if there is this leak, since it
will disguise any other leak that may exist. What have others done?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
PS One other thought, how much leakage can one have before it causes
siginificant ASI errors?
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Steve, I simply pressured up the pitot line and called it quits. A pitot
leakage of this sort is found on many Piper aircraft such as the Warrior
and Cherokee. When I performed a static test with a "calibrated"
pressure source, read that as "homemade manometer", the Dynon read from
6% high to 2% low, while Van's analogue gauge read from three to five
percent low. I wonder what the error will be in flight.
Leland
Installing the empennage
>After investigating a leak in the pitot line Dynon tell me not to worry
>since it has a drain built in and this is the leak. However it raises the
>issue as to how you test the pitot system if there is this leak, since it
>will disguise any other leak that may exist. What have others done?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>#90360
>
>PS One other thought, how much leakage can one have before it causes
>siginificant ASI errors?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
Leland,
Understand the "homemade manometer," but would like to know where to get a
chart of airspeed vs. inches H2O. Could you share that one?
Thanks,
Bob Kelly, fuse on main gear
On 12/23/04, Leland wrote:
>
> Steve, I simply pressured up the pitot line and called it quits. A pitot
> leakage of this sort is found on many Piper aircraft such as the Warrior
> and Cherokee. When I performed a static test with a "calibrated"
> pressure source, read that as "homemade manometer", the Dynon read from
> 6% high to 2% low, while Van's analogue gauge read from three to five
> percent low. I wonder what the error will be in flight.
> Leland
> Installing the empennage
>
>> After investigating a leak in the pitot line Dynon tell me not to worry
>> since it has a drain built in and this is the leak. However it raises the
>> issue as to how you test the pitot system if there is this leak, since it
>> will disguise any other leak that may exist. What have others done?
>>
>> Thanks, Steve.
>> #90360
>>
>> PS One other thought, how much leakage can one have before it causes
>> siginificant ASI errors?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Leland - thanks for the reply. I dont quite understand. Since the Dynon head
has a leak I cant pressurise the line. Well I suppose if I had a constant
flow of air I could, but the leakage is not insignificant. Do you mean that
you had a long loop of manometer so you kept raising one end as the pressure
dropped? Did the 'calibrated' source supply air continuously?
I am really puzzled about this. Since it is a drain according to Dynon it
must leak quite a bit to pass water.
Happy Christmas, Steve.
PS It sounds as though we continue to be at abount the same point. I have
ben fitting the empenage and general snags prior to pushing it into the
hanger for the wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: RV9-List: Re:Dynon pitot
Steve, I simply pressured up the pitot line and called it quits. A pitot
leakage of this sort is found on many Piper aircraft such as the Warrior
and Cherokee. When I performed a static test with a "calibrated"
pressure source, read that as "homemade manometer", the Dynon read from
6% high to 2% low, while Van's analogue gauge read from three to five
percent low. I wonder what the error will be in flight.
Leland
Installing the empennage
>After investigating a leak in the pitot line Dynon tell me not to worry
>since it has a drain built in and this is the leak. However it raises the
>issue as to how you test the pitot system if there is this leak, since it
>will disguise any other leak that may exist. What have others done?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>#90360
>
>PS One other thought, how much leakage can one have before it causes
>siginificant ASI errors?
>
>
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K.Wilson" <fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | F-661EF flap bearing block |
I need to fabricate the F-661EF flap bearing blocks but can't find the .750 UHMW
plastic blocks they are made from. My packing list does not have them under
item number or description. Anyone else who has run into this and could help
out I would appreciate it. Thanks and Merry Christmas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-661EF flap bearing block |
Look in the bag marked RV-6 Common Bag. It is a larger sealed bag with
misc. parts. I just went through this with Vans, it is a frequent question
they get. Hope this helps. Glenn in Arizona -9A fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "K.Wilson" <fr8dawg8(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: RV9-List: F-661EF flap bearing block
>
> I need to fabricate the F-661EF flap bearing blocks but can't find the
.750 UHMW plastic blocks they are made from. My packing list does not have
them under item number or description. Anyone else who has run into this and
could help out I would appreciate it. Thanks and Merry Christmas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Kovac" <kayce(at)sysmatrix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-661EF flap bearing block |
Try looking in the Flap motor actuator parts bag
----- Original Message -----
From: K.Wilson
To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 2:41 PM
Subject: RV9-List: F-661EF flap bearing block
I need to fabricate the F-661EF flap bearing blocks but can't find the .750
UHMW plastic blocks they are made from. My packing list does not have them under
item number or description. Anyone else who has run into this and could help
out I would appreciate it. Thanks and Merry Christmas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot |
Steve, when I tested my Dynon it was without the pitot tube in the
circuit. I simply pressurized the line going to the control panel. I
also wondered if the Dynon accounted for the air leak in the pitot, and
that is one reason why I did the pressure test. I noticed that the Dynon
and my Van's analogue gauge differed in readings. I called Dynon and was
assured that everything would work out, but I am not yet reassured.
Van's gauge reads some 4-8 mph high over the range of 117 to 199 mph,
and the Dynon reads low by 4-5 mph over the same range. It seems that a
leaky pitot tube would read even lower.
And yes, my manometer was simply the tubing leading to the Dynon. (When
I started pressure testing, I found a lot of leaks in the connections,
and in the static system too. Upon advice from two different
pitot/static calibration shops, I used the high quality threaded
connectors from the likes of Wick's and ACS rather than the cheap barbed
connectors sold by Van's. There was a fatal accident due to a
low-altitude stall in an RV6 in Florida some two years ago. The
builder's friend conjectured that this accident occurred because the RV
had a leaky pitot/static system.)
Bob, assuming the airspeed gauges were calibrated at 29.92 inches of
mercury and 20 degrees Celsius, the airspeed in mph can be calculated by
multiplying the square root of the difference in meniscus height,
measured in inches, by the value 45.43. For other conditions, the
airspeed can be calculated by the formula:
AirSpeed
=SquareRoot[2*WaterMassDensity*Gravity*WaterColumnHeightDifference/AirMassDensity],
where the value of AirMassDensity can be gotten from the CRC Handbook of
Chemistry and Physics. If you want more detail, I could email you a copy
of my Excel spreadsheet.
Leland
Installing the empennage and elevator control tubes (getting the washers
in is a bitch)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot |
Leland,
Thanks for the formula. I knew 5" H2O was around 100 mph and have used a
monometer to compare instruments in the past, but didn't know anything
beyond that. The spreadsheet should be a help if it isn't too much
trouble. mmpi at missionmedia.org
I used REALLY stiff grease to hold the washers in place on the control
tubes. Almost tar-like. You might try something like that, safer I feel
than the super-glue I hear some people use while assembling them. Still,
it is trial and error. If you don't have any really stiff grease, try
sitting a tub of wheel bearing grease on the top shelf with the top ajar
for 15 years or so. Don't ask how I know!
Thanks,
Bob Kelly, 90854
> Bob, assuming the airspeed gauges were calibrated at 29.92 inches of
> mercury and 20 degrees Celsius, the airspeed in mph can be calculated by
> multiplying the square root of the difference in meniscus height, measured
> in inches, by the value 45.43. For other conditions, the airspeed can be
> calculated by the formula: AirSpeed
>
=SquareRoot[2*WaterMassDensity*Gravity*WaterColumnHeightDifference/AirMassDensity],
> where the value of AirMassDensity can be gotten from the CRC Handbook of
> Chemistry and Physics. If you want more detail, I could email you a copy
> of my Excel spreadsheet.
>
> Leland
> Installing the empennage and elevator control tubes (getting the washers
> in is a bitch)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot |
Leland - I tend to degrease washers with MEK and then attach a 'wing' of
masking tape on one side to hold them by as I push the bolt through. When
the bolt is through I yank hard on the tape. It works most of the time for
me. Steve.
PS Then introduce some oil/grease to make up forwaht was removed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: RV9-List: Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot
....................
Leland
Installing the empennage and elevator control tubes (getting the washers
in is a bitch)
>
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot |
Steve, sounds like a useful trick. Bob Kelly suggested holding the
washer on with stiff grease. For the last batch, I made a washer holder
from 032 aluminum and kept trying until it worked. I suppose the best
way would be for me to cough up $43 for a "washer wrench":
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=WWR4&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=3
Leland
>Leland - I tend to degrease washers with MEK and then attach a 'wing' of
>masking tape on one side to hold them by as I push the bolt through. When
>the bolt is through I yank hard on the tape. It works most of the time for
>me. Steve.
>
>PS Then introduce some oil/grease to make up for what was removed.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot |
Isn't that the type of thing Santa is supposed to give you? Or at least
your in-laws, in my case?
BTW, they are a buck cheaper from Avery's.
Bill
RV-9
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
Working on the fuselage and still stunned by the tools my in-laws gave
me for Christmas. Not to mention the two days my Father in-law spent
driving rivets with me over Thanksgiving.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: RV9-List: Re:Re: Re: Re:Dynon pitot
Steve, sounds like a useful trick. Bob Kelly suggested holding the
washer on with stiff grease. For the last batch, I made a washer holder
from 032 aluminum and kept trying until it worked. I suppose the best
way would be for me to cough up $43 for a "washer wrench":
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=WWR4&varia
tion=&aitem=3&mitem=3
Leland
>Leland - I tend to degrease washers with MEK and then attach a 'wing'
>of masking tape on one side to hold them by as I push the bolt through.
>When the bolt is through I yank hard on the tape. It works most of the
>time for me. Steve.
>
>PS Then introduce some oil/grease to make up for what was removed.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <associates(at)bellnet.ca> |
| Subject: | H2AD modifications |
Merry Christmas to every one!
What a surprise it was to find that my certified H2AD (1200 since major, with log
books), would result in a 2 to 4 inch bump on the cowling, require minor modifications
to the baffles, special engine mounts, (comes at no extra charge with
finishing kit), and a modified exhaust system.
I did not like that!
Now, I am going to sell this engine, and buy a new one.
I have checked with Van's and Vetterman's, they said the engine mount, and exhaust
system will fit their new D1A. This is a good thing for me.
The message to the group is to think ahead and decide if you can live with these
types of modifications. A lot of builders willingly trade the bump on the cowling
in order to save thousands of dollars.
Nice thing about the RV is you can change your mind.
Bill, in Canada, finishing and FWF
C-GDRJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD modifications |
Bill, My tech counselor has the same engine in his -6. He removed the
engine driven fuel pump and went with 2 electric fuel pumps and does not have the
cowl bumps.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers |
For those of you sitill building, I thought a few performance numbers
might be of interest.
I took these yesterday while flying off my 40 hours.
The conditions are as follows.
RV-9A, O-320 D1A, Hartzell prop, empty weight 1080
3/4 fuel + 210 lbs pilot + 20 pounds of god knows what else = 1472 lbs
Main gear pants and fairings installed, nose wheel and leg still bare
(to lazy to finish it)
At each altitude I paused long enough for the airplane to accelerate and
stablized then leaned to ~ 50 deg ROP.
8500 msl 8340 DA 2 deg. C OAT
2400 rpm @ 22.1 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
EGTs 1364 1285 1321 1291 spread = 79
CHTs 347 358 352 338 spread = 20
156 knots TAS
Note that if 2650 rpm is used here we see 162 knots TAS for roughly 75%
power
10500 msl 10420 DA -1 deg. C OAT
2400 rpm @ 20.4 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
EGTs 1336 1265 1291 1262 spread = 74
CHTs 337 333 336 325 spread = 12
154 knots TAS
climb rate at 10500 ~ 1200 fpm
12500 msl 12370 DA -5 deg. C OAT
2400 rpm @ 19.0 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
EGTs 1310 1229 1247 1228 spread = 82
CHTs 343 330 339 325 spread = 18
151 knots TAS
climb rate at 12500 ~ 1000 fpm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sowell Home" <bsowell(at)digitex.net> |
August 23, 2004 - December 28, 2004
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ap