Subject: 
Re: Performance numbers
Date: 
Dec 28, 2004
      
      
      Thanks, David.  I for one appreciate you taking the time to post these. 
      What's the pitch of the prop you're using?
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
"David Edgemon" <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Performance numbers
      
      
      >
      > For those of you sitill building, I thought a few performance numbers
      > might be of interest.
      > I took these yesterday while flying off my 40 hours.
      >
      > The conditions are as follows.
      >
      > RV-9A, O-320 D1A, Hartzell prop, empty weight 1080
      > 3/4 fuel + 210 lbs pilot + 20 pounds of god knows what else = 1472 lbs
      > Main gear pants and fairings installed, nose wheel and leg still bare
      > (to lazy to finish it)
      > At each altitude I paused long enough for the airplane to accelerate and
      > stablized then leaned to ~ 50 deg ROP.
      >
      > 8500 msl 8340 DA 2 deg. C OAT
      > 2400 rpm @ 22.1 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      > EGTs 1364 1285 1321 1291 spread = 79
      > CHTs 347 358 352 338 spread = 20
      > 156 knots TAS
      > Note that if 2650 rpm is used here we see 162 knots TAS for roughly 75%
      > power
      >
      > 10500 msl 10420 DA -1 deg. C OAT
      > 2400 rpm @ 20.4 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      > EGTs 1336 1265 1291 1262 spread = 74
      > CHTs 337 333 336 325 spread = 12
      > 154 knots TAS
      > climb rate at 10500 ~ 1200 fpm
      >
      > 12500 msl 12370 DA -5 deg. C OAT
      > 2400 rpm @ 19.0 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      > EGTs 1310 1229 1247 1228 spread = 82
      > CHTs 343 330 339 325 spread = 18
      > 151 knots TAS
      > climb rate at 12500 ~ 1000 fpm
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Dec 28, 2004
Subject: 
halogen landing lights
      
      
      Has anyone used Creative Air wingtip halogen landing lights and the LED navigation
      lights?  I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions about these lights.
      
      Thanks.
      Cliff 9wings
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Dec 29, 2004
From: 
"dedgemon(at)knology.net" <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
Subject: 
Re: Performance numbers
      
      
      Brian,
      I'm using a Hartzell constant speed prop.
      
      
      From: "Brian Sowell Home" <bsowell(at)digitex.net>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Performance numbers
      
      --> 
      
      Thanks, David.  I for one appreciate you taking the time to post these. 
      What's the pitch of the prop you're using?
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
Date: 
Dec 29, 2004
Subject: 
Re: halogen landing lights
      
      
      Cliff,
      
      I have installed them in my 9A but it is still "under construction" so can't
      comment beyond that.  The LED's are incredible, brighter than I would have
      ever dreamed.  My partner built the kits, so can't comment first-hand on
      the difficulty, but the plans were very clear and he had no problems. 
      Since he is an electrician, I didn't expect any!
      
      The landing lights are also very bright.  I don't anticipate any heat
      related problems.  I have the strobe kit also and it appears to be all it
      is advertised to be.  All in all, it is a great package. You get everything
      you need, including the strobe wiring.  Everything seems to be first class
      and the instructions are very clear.  I am mounting the strobe power supply
      under the baggage floor.  The storbes are in front of the LL's but don't
      seem to block much light.  I have the standard tail strobe/nav light from
      Van's.
      
      Not without a couple of minor problems, however.  The circuit boards are
      actually designed and marked for the RV-9 wingtips, so you have to make you
      own template when cutting them out.  They are just a tad small, although
      nothing anyone will ever notice.  He may have actually put -9 markings on
      them by now.  Also, the 9 tips must have a slightly different angle to them
      as my landing lights wanted to shine outward from the centerline more than
      I wanted.  I redrilled one of the mounting holes to allow more adjustment
      toward the center.  Altogether, the figuring and work took maybe an hour,
      and the results were what I wanted, so I am very happy.  I would use them
      again if I were to build again.  
      
      Bob Kelly, 90854, ready to install engine.
      
      On 12/29/04, D,C,Jones wrote:
      > 
      > Has anyone used Creative Air wingtip halogen landing lights and the LED
      > navigation lights? I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions about
      > these lights.
      > 
      > Thanks.
      > Cliff 9wings
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      Regards
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
plaurence@the-beach.net
Date: 
Dec 29, 2004
Subject: 
Re: halogen landing lights
      
      
      Does anyone have a URL for Creative air's web site?
      
      
      Peter Laurence
      9A Wings
      > 
      > Has anyone used Creative Air wingtip halogen landing lights and the
      > LED navigation lights?  I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions
      > about these lights.
      > 
      > Thanks.
      > Cliff 9wings
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: halogen landing lights
Date: 
Dec 29, 2004
      
      
      http://www.creativair.com/cva/
      (funny spelling)  Glenn in Arizona -9A fuselage.
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <plaurence@the-beach.net>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: halogen landing lights
      
      
      > 
      > Does anyone have a URL for Creative air's web site?
      > 
      > 
      > Peter Laurence
      > 9A Wings
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Brian Sowell Home" <bsowell(at)digitex.net>
Subject: 
Re: Performance numbers
Date: 
Dec 29, 2004
      
      
      Duh.
      
      Thanks.
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Re: Performance numbers
      
      
      > 
      >
      > Brian,
      > I'm using a Hartzell constant speed prop.
      >
      >
      > From: "Brian Sowell Home" <bsowell(at)digitex.net>
      > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Performance numbers
      >
      > --> 
      >
      > Thanks, David.  I for one appreciate you taking the time to post these.
      > What's the pitch of the prop you're using?
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"jmtipton" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: 
Re: halogen landing lights
Date: 
Dec 30, 2004
      
      
      Try: www.creativeair.com !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <plaurence@the-beach.net>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: halogen landing lights
      
      
      > 
      > Does anyone have a URL for Creative air's web site?
      > 
      > 
      > Peter Laurence
      > 9A Wings
      >> 
      >> Has anyone used Creative Air wingtip halogen landing lights and the
      >> LED navigation lights?  I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions
      >> about these lights.
      >> 
      >> Thanks.
      >> Cliff 9wings
      >> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >> 
      >> 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Dec 30, 2004
Subject: 
Re: halogen landing lights
      
      
      Bob
      Thanks for your input.  These lights do look interesting.
      Cliff 9A #90667
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Bob Kelly" <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: halogen landing lights
      
      
      >
      > Cliff,
      >
      > I have installed them in my 9A but it is still "under construction" so
      can't
      > comment beyond that.  The LED's are incredible, brighter than I would have
      > ever dreamed.  My partner built the kits, so can't comment first-hand on
      > the difficulty, but the plans were very clear and he had no problems.
      > Since he is an electrician, I didn't expect any!
      >
      > The landing lights are also very bright.  I don't anticipate any heat
      > related problems.  I have the strobe kit also and it appears to be all it
      > is advertised to be.  All in all, it is a great package. You get
      everything
      > you need, including the strobe wiring.  Everything seems to be first class
      > and the instructions are very clear.  I am mounting the strobe power
      supply
      > under the baggage floor.  The storbes are in front of the LL's but don't
      > seem to block much light.  I have the standard tail strobe/nav light from
      > Van's.
      >
      > Not without a couple of minor problems, however.  The circuit boards are
      > actually designed and marked for the RV-9 wingtips, so you have to make
      you
      > own template when cutting them out.  They are just a tad small, although
      > nothing anyone will ever notice.  He may have actually put -9 markings on
      > them by now.  Also, the 9 tips must have a slightly different angle to
      them
      > as my landing lights wanted to shine outward from the centerline more than
      > I wanted.  I redrilled one of the mounting holes to allow more adjustment
      > toward the center.  Altogether, the figuring and work took maybe an hour,
      > and the results were what I wanted, so I am very happy.  I would use them
      > again if I were to build again.
      >
      > Bob Kelly, 90854, ready to install engine.
      >
      > On 12/29/04, D,C,Jones wrote:
      > >
      > > Has anyone used Creative Air wingtip halogen landing lights and the LED
      > > navigation lights? I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions about
      > > these lights.
      > >
      > > Thanks.
      > > Cliff 9wings
      > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > Regards
      > -- 
      >
      >
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 
Fw: RV-List: RV9A empennage for sale
Date: 
Dec 30, 2004
      
      
      Here's another thing you won't be doing in your Zenith:
      Left Yuma for Phoenix this morning, climbed to 7,500 eastbound (from 188' at
      KYUM) level  at altitude within 10 miles of origin. On course-2250 rpm, 6.5
      gph, 150 kts TAS. On return, sliding downhill into the area at 165 kts,
      approach says "Can you slow down to let 2 King Airs in before you?" I say,
      "I can slow down or speed up-your choice"
      Albert Gardner
      RV-9A 872RV
      Yuma, AZ
      Lyc O-320 Sensenich FP
      
      >>> After finishing the empennage of a RV9A,....Snip.....the aircraft cost 
      >>> is
      > going to be too high for me.  While  the RV9A will always be my
      > dream.....Snip....I have decided....Snip....a Corvair powered Zenith 
      > 601XL.
      > <<
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Dec 31, 2004
Subject: 
[ Kelly Patterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: 
Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
      
      
      A new Email List Photo Share is available:
      
              Poster:  Kelly Patterson 
      
      
              Subject: Tailcone baggage compartment
      
              http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kbob@cox.net.12.31.2004/index.html
      
      
          o Main Photo Share Index
      
              http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      
          o Submitting a Photo Share
      
              If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the 
              following information along with your email message and files:
      
                      1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
                      2) Your Full Name:
                      3) Your Email Address:
                      4) One line Subject description:
                      5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
                      6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
      
              Email the information above and your files and photos to:
      
                      pictures(at)matronics.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
DThomas773(at)aol.com
Date: 
Dec 31, 2004
Subject: 
Re: Home town.
      
      
      Thanks Rob,
      I would wish you and all the other listers a Great New Year of building and 
      safe flying.
      
      Dennis Thomas
      RV-9  N164DV   149 hours
      Soquel, Ca  ( on the coast 90 miles south of San Francisco )
      Fly out of Watsonville,  (WVI)
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: 
Home town.
Date: 
Jan 01, 2005
      
      
      Dennis,
      
      Thanks for the new years wishes.  The same for you.
      
      This morning I started riveting the 705 bulkhead together this morning.
      Figuring out how to hold everything together to match drill those two
      angle pieces for the tip-up took a little thought.  I figured it out and
      moved on.
      
      149 hours!  Man, you have been flying the daylights out of your -9.
      Sounds to me like your plane will be warn out by the time I finish mine.
      
      I hope you and your family had a great holiday season.
      
      Bill Repucci
      Huntersville, NC
      www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      DThomas773(at)aol.com
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Home town.
      
      
      Thanks Rob,
      I would wish you and all the other listers a Great New Year of building
      and 
      safe flying.
      
      Dennis Thomas
      RV-9  N164DV   149 hours
      Soquel, Ca  ( on the coast 90 miles south of San Francisco ) Fly out of
      Watsonville,  (WVI)
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 01, 2005
From: 
Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: 
Wing stand / jig question
      
      
      I am finally about to start my wings.  Yippeeee!
      
      So I am about to build the wing jig.  Space is a little limited but I would 
      like to build both wings at the same time.  I would like to build one 
      structure with 2 uprights and mount both wings on it on opposite sides so I 
      can build both wings at once.  I figure if have to get to the back side, I 
      will take the other wing off the structure and set it in the storage rack.
      
      Is this really practical?  Or would I be moving the wings around so often 
      the hassle factor would be excessive?
      
      If this is a bad idea, how much space between the wings is necessary--just 
      enough to get a person in there to buck rivets and screw on the tanks?
      
      Thanks for your advice.
      
      Richard Scott
      RV-9A
      Emp Done!  On to wings!
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Wing stand / jig question
Date: 
Jan 01, 2005
      
      
      Richard, I built both my wings that way, hanging upright next to each other
      on a stand, about 5 feet or so between them.  Worked great, and they stayed
      there from the time I hung the main spars on them, to the time they were
      completed (sans wingtips).  Worked great for me.  Also, as a side note, I
      back riveted my tops skins in this fashion, and when I completed my bottom
      skins with the help of a friend we compared the degree of difficulty in
      finishing his QB bottom skins on a table.  We both agreed, hanging vs. on a
      table was easier to do.  Just my .02.  Glenn in Arizona -9A fuselage.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Wing stand / jig question
      
      
      >
      > I am finally about to start my wings.  Yippeeee!
      >
      > So I am about to build the wing jig.  Space is a little limited but I
      would
      > like to build both wings at the same time.  I would like to build one
      > structure with 2 uprights and mount both wings on it on opposite sides so
      I
      > can build both wings at once.  I figure if have to get to the back side, I
      > will take the other wing off the structure and set it in the storage rack.
      >
      > Is this really practical?  Or would I be moving the wings around so often
      > the hassle factor would be excessive?
      >
      > If this is a bad idea, how much space between the wings is necessary--just
      > enough to get a person in there to buck rivets and screw on the tanks?
      >
      > Thanks for your advice.
      >
      > Richard Scott
      > RV-9A
      > Emp Done!  On to wings!
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Ken" <airplanestuff(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Wing stand / jig question
Date: 
Jan 01, 2005
      
      
      Richard
      
      I used 4 posts so I could hang both wings with some space so I could get
      between them.  Put it on wheels under it and put plywood on top so it became
      storage.
      
      Ken
      Wings
      QB Fuse due Feb/April
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
      Subject: RV9-List: Wing stand / jig question
      
      
      I am finally about to start my wings.  Yippeeee!
      
      So I am about to build the wing jig.  Space is a little limited but I would 
      like to build both wings at the same time.  I would like to build one 
      structure with 2 uprights and mount both wings on it on opposite sides so I 
      can build both wings at once.  I figure if have to get to the back side, I 
      will take the other wing off the structure and set it in the storage rack.
      
      Is this really practical?  Or would I be moving the wings around so often 
      the hassle factor would be excessive?
      
      If this is a bad idea, how much space between the wings is necessary--just 
      enough to get a person in there to buck rivets and screw on the tanks?
      
      Thanks for your advice.
      
      Richard Scott
      RV-9A
      Emp Done!  On to wings!
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
Date: 
Jan 01, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Wing stand / jig question
      
      
      Richard,  
      
      I did mine back-to-back, only about 6" apart.  I could slide them further
      apart (about 2') when necessary, but didn't have to do that often.  I built
      them in the area between cars in a two car garage.  There did come a point
      where I had to rack one wing to finish the other.  While there were a few
      times things could have been more convenient, I never put the first wing
      back on the jig.  A role-around rack for the finished wings has been a big
      help.
      
      Bob Kelly
      
      On 01/02/05, Richard Scott wrote:
      > 
      > I am finally about to start my wings.  Yippeeee!
      > 
      > So I am about to build the wing jig. Space is a little limited but I would
      > like to build both wings at the same time. I would like to build one
      > structure with 2 uprights and mount both wings on it on opposite sides so
      > I can build both wings at once. I figure if have to get to the back side,
      > I will take the other wing off the structure and set it in the storage
      > rack.
      > 
      > Is this really practical?  Or would I be moving the wings around so often 
      > the hassle factor would be excessive?
      > 
      > If this is a bad idea, how much space between the wings is necessary--just
      > enough to get a person in there to buck rivets and screw on the tanks?
      > 
      > Thanks for your advice.
      > 
      > Richard Scott
      > RV-9A
      > Emp Done!  On to wings!
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: 
Mounting Nose Wheel Tire & Tube
Date: 
Jan 02, 2005
      
      
      I mounted the tires and tubes this weekend and had read of
      the difficulty in getting the nose wheel tire mounted without
      pinching the tube.  Here is what worked for me after a few tries:
      
      1  - Apply talc liberally inside the wheel to prevent chafing.
      2  - Insert tube in tire and inflate with a little air.
      3  - Remove valve stem from tube and allow to deflate.
      4  - Position 4 - 5 "Quick Grip" bar clamps around wheel
            to slowly squeeze the tire beads together.  (The clamps are
            the pistol grip type you find at Home Depot and else where.)
            Don't get the clamp too close to the bead or it will interfere
            with the hub.
      5  - As the sides are being squeezed together, push the tube
            inside.  Use something like a popsicle stick to push the tub
            inside as the sides approach each other.  Continue squeezing
            until the side make contact and hold the tube inside the tire.
      6  - Place the tire/tube assembly on the hub half that has the hole for
            valve stem.  Put the cap on the stem to keep it from slipping out.
            (This half of the hub has the "female" grove to receive the other
            half.)
      7  - Add the other half of the hub, insert the bolts and washers and
            tighten the nuts finger tight.
      8  -  Use a dental mirror and a flashlight to insure the tube has not
            gotten between the hub halves. (It shouldn't because the clamps
            have kept the tube inside the bead area.)
      9  - Torque the bolts to the proper value and remove the clamps.
      10 - Add vale stem and inflate.
      
      I can send a few pictures if desired...
      
      Joe Connell  RV-9A N95JJ Instrument panel.
      Stewartville, MN
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 05, 2005
From: 
Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Plans callout
      
      
      The plans do not have callouts for the Adel Clamps used to fix the 
      rudder cable tubings to the fuselage at their exit point nor are there 
      callouts for hardware used to attach the cables to the rudder horn. I 
      wonder what other builders have done.
      Leland
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Clark, Thomas M           UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
         rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
         Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
         BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: 
RV-8 Fastback
Date: 
Jan 06, 2005
      
      
      Groups,
      I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was
      completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of
      the questions about this modification. Try the link below.
      Thanks,
      Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC,  75 hours
      
      http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback
      
      Tom Clark
      860-727-2287 Office
      860-604-5826 Cell
      860-998-9811 Fax
      e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 06, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
Plans callout
      
      
      DWG 27A shows both.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leland
      Subject: RV9-List: Plans callout
      
      
      The plans do not have callouts for the Adel Clamps used to fix the 
      rudder cable tubings to the fuselage at their exit point nor are there 
      callouts for hardware used to attach the cables to the rudder horn. I 
      wonder what other builders have done.
      Leland
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 06, 2005
From: 
robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Plans callout
      
      
      do not use nylocs . use castle nut and cotter pin. you can adjust to leave no binding
      on cables.and won't fall off. Bob Watson  N194BN  + 280 Hr,s
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Plans callout
      
      
      The plans do not have callouts for the Adel Clamps used to fix the 
      rudder cable tubings to the fuselage at their exit point nor are there 
      callouts for hardware used to attach the cables to the rudder horn. I 
      wonder what other builders have done.
      Leland
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 07, 2005
Subject: 
Nylocks on rudder cable clamps
From: 
Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      
      
      on 1/6/05 11:57 PM, RV9-List Digest Server at rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com
      wrote:
      
      > 
      > do not use nylocs . use castle nut and cotter pin. you can adjust to leave no
      > binding
      > on cables.and won't fall off. Bob Watson  N194BN  + 280 Hr,s
      > 
      
      Bob,
      
      Did you have problems with the nuts specified in the plans falling off? I
      wouldn't think there would be that much vibration back there.
      
      Mark
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: 
Jan 07, 2005
Subject: 
[PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT!
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet.  I will be
      re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
      Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time.  Name
      Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
      work again pretty quick.  There may be some bounced email for a few hours
      or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
      into the depths of the Internet.  
      
      If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
      bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
      again.  Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
      
      Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
      notice!  :-)
      
      Thanks for your patience!
      
      Matt Dralle
      List Administrator
      
      
      -- 
      
      
      Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
      925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
      http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 08, 2005
From: 
Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: - Re: Plans callout 
      
      
      Several of you have suggested that I look at DWG 17A for the hardware 
      callout on the rudder-cable to rudder-horn attachments, and the Adel 
      Clamp holding the tubing at the rudder cable exit. Apparently I have an 
      early copy of 17A and it has no such callouts. Can someone tell me 
      exactly what hardware is specified for these points?
      Leland
      Wing panels on for initial fitting (it feels good too)
      
      > 
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 09, 2005
From: 
Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Adel Clamp hardware
      
      
      Leland,
      
      I have an early kit and the Adel clamp for the platic
      tube is on Drawing 27 for the RV-9A. I think newer
      kits might have the info on Drawing 27A. My Drawing
      27, last revised on 3/14/01 says:
      
      AN509-8R8 Screw
      AN365-832 Nut
      AN960-8 Washer
      MS21919DG6 Clamp
      See Drawing 28 for location
      
      Hope this helps,
      
      Mark
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 10, 2005
From: 
Leland <Federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: Adel Clamp hardware
      
      
      Mark, thank you for the help. I see the callouts now. A builder in Minnesota notes
      that you can go to Walter Tondu's RV7 site and pull up a full set of drawings
      in pdf format by typing "plans" in the search window. Kinda neat. 
      Leland in Pleasanton, California
      
      
      >
      >From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      >Subject: RV9-List: Adel Clamp hardware
      >
      >
      >Leland,
      >
      >I have an early kit and the Adel clamp for the platic
      >tube is on Drawing 27 for the RV-9A. I think newer
      >kits might have the info on Drawing 27A. My Drawing
      >27, last revised on 3/14/01 says:
      >
      >AN509-8R8 Screw
      >AN365-832 Nut
      >AN960-8 Washer
      >MS21919DG6 Clamp
      >See Drawing 28 for location
      >
      >Hope this helps,
      >
      >Mark
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
         , ,
         , 
Subject: 
Flop tube problems
Date: 
Jan 13, 2005
      
      
      For those interested I designed a simple anti-rotation bracket for my flop tube
      installation.  It is easy to make and install while constructing the tank.  I
      believe it can be easily retrofitted to an existing tank with minimal effort,
      but you will have to remove the flop tube from the 90 bulkhead elbow.
      
      Photos are posted on my website ExperimenalAero.com http://www.experimentalaero.com/flop_tube_anti_rotation.htm
      
      Paul
      
      
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: rwtrwtau
        To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:56 AM
        Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: Flop tube problems
      
      
        For those that are interested, I was told by Vans that flop tubes
        should be fitted with anti-rotation brackets as well.  This makes
        sense to me but is not depicted on the drawings or described in the
        instructions.  It will be fun installing them now...
      
        Another kind person pointed me to the Standard Aircraft Handbook,
        where the torque figures are in fact listed.
      
        Richard
      
        --- In RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com, "rwtrwtau"  wrote:
        >
        >
        > Hi Everyone,
        >
        > I'm wondering if people have been having issues getting the flop
        > tubes installed in their tanks?  My issues seems to be stopping
        the
        > fitting from turning when I connect the AN-929-6D end cap.
        >
        > First I tried sealing the fitting by smearing the fitting, nut and
        > hole with Proseal.  I quickly discovered that that was a bad idea
        as
        > the Proseal turns into rubbery like stuff when it sets not
        adhesive.
        >
        > I have since tried with the fittings dry and Proseal removed. 
        This
        > has not helped either.
        >
        > Looking at the plans (16A) I have installed the T-410 plate inside
        > the rib and the T-405 reinforcing angle.  The T-410 plate is not
        > specifically called out but I assume it should be there even in
        flop
        > tube installations.
        >
        > I do not see a call-out for a bulkhead washer on the plans. 
        Indeed
        > if I install on, there will not be any thread for the nut to clamp
        > down on, let alone 1 turn extra.
        >
        > I was thinking of making some anti-rotation brackets to fit in the
        > tank but that will be a pain.  I have also made some very thin
        > washers from .016" Alclad and this seems to help.
        >
        > Does anyone know what the torque requirements for these fittings
        > is?  I have been working on the basis of finger tight + 1/2 turn.
        >
        > Thanks
        > Richard
      
      
        Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
        www.vansaircraft.net
      
      
          a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
           
          b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          RV7and7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
           
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com>
         "RV9 Group" 
Subject: 
RV-9A kit
Date: 
Jan 13, 2005
      
      
      After a lot of soul searching I am getting out of aviation and sticking with cars,
      boats, and motorcycles. Selling my cherokee and the kit is next. I know, I
      know. But, I gotta do what I gotta do. My Harley is calling.
      
      RV-9A:  QB fuselage, 95% complete wings, 70% complete empennage, fully primed,
      dual lights, brakes and steps, AOA installed in wing. Cost around $22,000 to buy
      equivalent new now, cost around $16,500 for all the parts to me. Will look
      for around $15,000.
      
      Curt Hoffman
      Cincinnati area
      contact at choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 23, 2005
      
      
      when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects significantly
      into the imspection opening.  where have you all placed yours?
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT
      
      when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects significantly
      into the imspection opening. where have you all placed yours?
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: 
gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 23, 2005
      
      
      John,
      
      Check out the wing page of my web site for pictures of the Gretz mount.
      
      Bill
      www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      RV-9
      SN: 90737
      Huntersville, NC
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
      Subject: RV9-List: gretz pitot bracket
      
      
      when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects
      significantly into the imspection opening.  where have you all placed
      yours?
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT
      
      when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects
      significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed
      yours?
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Jan 23, 2005
Subject: 
AOA
      
      
      The printing in my instruction book for the wing port installation is illegible.
      What is the position of the ports relative to the aft skin edge of the leading
      edge?  Can anyone please tell me?
      Thanks.
      Cliff RV9A Wings
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      thanks for the response, it appears that your bracket for the pitot is located
      inboard of the inspection port. Correct?  Where did you get the technicolor tubing
      and connectors?
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > John, 
      > 
      > Check out the wing page of my web site for pictures of the Gretz mount. 
      > 
      > Bill 
      > www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html 
      > RV-9 
      > SN: 90737 
      > Huntersville, NC 
      > 
      > -----Original Message----- 
      > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 
      > kerrjohna(at)comcast.net 
      > To: rv9- list 
      > Subject: RV9-List: gretz pitot bracket 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
      > significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed 
      > yours? 
      > 
      > John Kerr 
      > Logan UT 
      > 
      > when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
      > significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed 
      > yours? 
      > 
      > John Kerr 
      > Logan UT 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      thanks for the response, it appears that your bracket for the pitot is located
      inboard of the inspection port. Correct? Where did you get the technicolor tubing
      and connectors?
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: "Bill Repucci" 
      
       John, 
      
       Check out the wing page of my web site for pictures of the Gretz mount. 
      
       Bill 
       www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html 
       RV-9 
       SN: 90737 
       Huntersville, NC 
      
       -----Original Message----- 
       From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com 
       [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 
       kerrjohna(at)comcast.net 
       To: rv9- list 
       Subject: RV9-List: gretz pitot bracket 
      
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna(at)comcast.net 
      
       when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
       significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed 
       yours? 
      
      
       John Kerr 
       Logan UT 
      
       when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
       significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed 
       yours? 
      
       John Kerr 
       Logan UT 
      
      
       Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv9-list 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: 
Re: AOA
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      Cliff if your system is a PSS then look on page 110 of your manuel. It has
      them all. Mark Rose  8A wiring.
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
      Subject: RV9-List: AOA
      
      
      >
      > The printing in my instruction book for the wing port installation is
      illegible.  What is the position of the ports relative to the aft skin edge
      of the leading edge?  Can anyone please tell me?
      > Thanks.
      > Cliff RV9A Wings
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
RE: gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      John,
      
      I mounted my bracket just one bay outboard of the bellcrank bay.  (Looks
      like Bill put his one bay inboard.)  I ordered my tubing from Safe-Air...
      
      Log entry: http://www.n523rv.com/wings/2004/03/pitot-tube-mount.html
      SafeAir: http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
TIP: Before you rivet the C-702 skin!
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      I've been working on the tip-up canopy frame and canopy and ran into a
      problem that I created for myself that I thought I'd warn others about.
      
      I don't recall finding in the instructions anywhere at what point to rivet
      the C-702 tip-up canopy skin to the WD-716 frame.  So prior to finishing the
      final trims on the canopy itself, I went ahead and riveted it on.  I've now
      discovered two problems.
      
      -- The C-702 skin has 'flaps' on each side that extend back along the
      WD-716/725 frame.  These flaps transition to the C-603 canopy side skins.
      These flaps need to get riveted to the WD-725 side rails but the holes
      aren't pre-punched so if you don't pay attention you could forget.  (Like
      me!)  The problem is that if you forget, there isn't enough room to get
      behind the flap to countersink the frame for a dimple.  Refer to DWG 49, the
      ISO VIEW, you can see reference to the two rivets at the aft edge of the
      C-702 skin.
      
      -- Even more importantly, the forward mounting point for the C-690 gas
      struts is a little hunk of aluminum block that gets screwed to the WD-716
      frame.  The screws are installed from the outside through the C-702 skin,
      then the WD-716 rail and then into the C-725 Ball Stud Fwd Mount.  The hole
      in the C-702 skin for the #10 screw needs to be dimpled and the frame gets
      countersunk.  Refer to DWG 49, C-690 INSTALL ISO located in the lower left
      portion of the plans.  You can't access this area with the skin riveted on.
      
      Looks like I am going to have to drill out some rivets along the sides so I
      can countersink the holes for the rivets and screws.  UGH!
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: RE: gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      Brian, thanks for the link.  My challenge is as a result of coming to the Dynon
      decision after top AND bottom skins were riveted on. Any suggestions?
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > John, 
      > 
      > I mounted my bracket just one bay outboard of the bellcrank bay. (Looks 
      > like Bill put his one bay inboard.) I ordered my tubing from Safe-Air... 
      > 
      > Log entry: http://www.n523rv.com/wings/2004/03/pitot-tube-mount.html 
      > SafeAir: http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm 
      > 
      > Matthew Brandes, 
      > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) 
      > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 
      > www.n523rv.com 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Brian, thanks for the link. My challenge is as a result of coming to the Dynon
      decision after top AND bottom skins were riveted on. Any suggestions?
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" 
      
       John, 
      
       I mounted my bracket just one bay outboard of the bellcrank bay. (Looks 
       like Bill put his one bay inboard.) I ordered my tubing from Safe-Air... 
      
       Log entry: http://www.n523rv.com/wings/2004/03/pitot-tube-mount.html 
       SafeAir: http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm 
      
       Matthew Brandes, 
       Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) 
       EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 
       www.n523rv.com 
      
      
       ribution 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
Subject: 
Re: gretz pitot bracket
From: 
Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      
      
      when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects
      significantly into the imspection opening.  where have you all placed yours?
      
      John,
      
      I moved mine outboard one bay. This way it avoids interference with the
      aileron pushrods.
      
      Mark
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: gretz pitot bracket
Date: 
Jan 24, 2005
      
      
      Mark, thanks for the reply, but you might have noticed my posts indicating that
      top and bottoms skins are already in place.  Any suggestions?
      John
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
      > significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed yours? 
      > 
      > John, 
      > 
      > I moved mine outboard one bay. This way it avoids interference with the 
      > aileron pushrods. 
      > 
      > Mark 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Mark, thanks for the reply, but you might have noticed my posts indicating that
      top and bottoms skins are already in place. Any suggestions?
      John
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer 
      
       when trial fitting the bracket in the recommended postion it projects 
       significantly into the imspection opening. where have you all placed yours? 
      
       John, 
      
       I moved mine outboard one bay. This way it avoids interference with the 
       aileron pushrods. 
      
       Mark 
      
      
       <
       /html>
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 25, 2005
From: 
Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: gretz pitot bracket 
      
      
      Mark, thanks for the reply, but you might have noticed
      my posts indicating that top and bottoms skins are
      already in place. Any suggestions?
      John
      
      John,
      
      Have you considered using flush-head pop rivets or
      Cherry-Max rivets? 
      
      Mark
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: gretz pitot bracket 
Date: 
Jan 25, 2005
      
      
      Thanks to all who chimed in on mounting the Gretz bracket for Dynon after both
      wing skins have been riveted.  It did not take as long to accomplish as the time
      spent worrying about it.  I was able to place in on the next outboard bay from
      the bell crank.  I can give a detailed step-by-step explanation if anyone
      is interested.
      
      I feel a little like the proctologist that sat for his A&P license....(If you have
      heard the joke contact me offline).
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > Mark, thanks for the reply, but you might have noticed 
      > my posts indicating that top and bottoms skins are 
      > already in place. Any suggestions? 
      > John 
      > 
      > John, 
      > 
      > Have you considered using flush-head pop rivets or 
      > Cherry-Max rivets? 
      > 
      > Mark 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Thanks to all who chimed in on mounting the Gretz bracket for Dynon after both
      wing skins have been riveted. It did not take as long to accomplish as the time
      spent worrying about it. I was able to place in on the next outboard bay from
      the bell crank. I can give a detailed step-by-step explanation if anyone is
      interested.
      
      I feel a little like the proctologist that sat for his AP license....(If you have
      heard the joke contact me offline).
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer 
      
       Mark, thanks for the reply, but you might have noticed 
       my posts indicating that top and bottoms skins are 
       already in place. Any suggestions? 
       John 
      
       John, 
      
       Have you considered using flush-head pop rivets or 
       Cherry-Max rivets? 
      
       Mark 
      
      
       
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 27, 2005
From: 
Tom & Carol Strong <tstrong(at)ida.net>
Subject: 
Edge connectors?
      
      
      I purchased a used transponder and radio from Bennett Avionics and they 
      came with the edge connector
      wires cut with only 1/4" remaining.  I'd like to replace the pins in the 
      connector with new ones.  Does anyone know where
      I can get these pins?
      
      Thanks,  Tom RV9A Canopy almost done
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 27, 2005
From: 
rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: 
Re: Edge connectors?
      
      
      Tom:
      You'd need to identify the connector, or at least the brand of radio and 
      transponder.  One way to do this is to look for a brand on the connector 
      itself, and even a part number.  If all else fails, measure the pitch of 
      the connector pins and the spacing of the rows.  Many of the old edge 
      connectors have 0.156" pitch.
      
      Then, go to digikey.com or mouser.com and search for compatible pins.  
      Oh, and you could call Bennett Avionics, they may stock them-- a real 
      avionics company should.
      
      Vern Little RV-9A  http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/rv-9a.html
      
      
      Tom & Carol Strong wrote:
      
      >
      >I purchased a used transponder and radio from Bennett Avionics and they 
      >came with the edge connector
      >wires cut with only 1/4" remaining.  I'd like to replace the pins in the 
      >connector with new ones.  Does anyone know where
      >I can get these pins?
      >
      >Thanks,  Tom RV9A Canopy almost done
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2005
From: 
Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: 
Re:  torque wrench calibration
      
      
      OK, so you got your wrench calibrated within a gnats eyelash.  Are you 
      actually measuring the torque correctly?
      
      First, measure the drag the nut / bolt combination exerts.  Those nuts with 
      the inserts will give you a few inch pounds.  And the wood on my wood prop 
      initially gave several pounds.
      
      Then add the drag to the specified torque and use that number for your 
      torque setting.
      
      Richard Scott
      RV-9 Wings
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2005
From: 
"Boyd Butler" <linbb(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 
Re:  torque wrench calibration
      
      
      The torque on the wood prop was to give the correct amount of crush on the
      wood 
      at that torque not to have that added to it.Consult the correct torque
      tables, they will
       give it to you and don't just add to things because one thinks that is
      right as that 
       could over torque the bolt. There are specific torque's for certain grade
      of bolt
       or for certain parts never exceed those values.  
      
      -------Original Message-------
      
      From: Richard Scott
      Date: 02/05/05 20:24:39
      Subject: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      
      
      OK, so you got your wrench calibrated within a gnats eyelash.  Are you
      actually measuring the torque correctly?
      
      First, measure the drag the nut / bolt combination exerts.  Those nuts with
      the inserts will give you a few inch pounds.  And the wood on my wood prop
      initially gave several pounds.
      
      Then add the drag to the specified torque and use that number for your
      torque setting.
      
      Richard Scott
      RV-9 Wings
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
Re:  torque wrench calibration
      
      
      What Richard is talking about is often called running torque and he is
      correct in adding it to the original torque figure.  AC43.13 page 7-7
      para 7-40 (d) "Add the friction drag torque to the desired torque....".
      
      My 2 cents
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Boyd Butler
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      
      
      The torque on the wood prop was to give the correct amount of crush on
      the
      wood 
      at that torque not to have that added to it.Consult the correct torque
      tables, they will
       give it to you and don't just add to things because one thinks that is
      right as that 
       could over torque the bolt. There are specific torque's for certain
      grade
      of bolt
       or for certain parts never exceed those values.  
      
      -------Original Message-------
      
      From: Richard Scott
      Date: 02/05/05 20:24:39
      Subject: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      
      
      OK, so you got your wrench calibrated within a gnats eyelash.  Are you
      actually measuring the torque correctly?
      
      First, measure the drag the nut / bolt combination exerts.  Those nuts
      with
      the inserts will give you a few inch pounds.  And the wood on my wood
      prop
      initially gave several pounds.
      
      Then add the drag to the specified torque and use that number for your
      torque setting.
      
      Richard Scott
      RV-9 Wings
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Carlrayw(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 06, 2005
Subject: 
For Sale: Eggenfellner engine package 
      
      
      I have one of the earlier 2002 engine packages which I would like to sell.  I 
      bought it for an rv9 but I know it will fit some other rvs. 
      
      engine package
      heater package
      EIS monitor no fuel sensors
      fuel  valve
      Oeitiker kit
      1 metal tank and 2 gallons of antifreeze
      engine  manual
      
      Will sell for $15,500.00      about what I have  invested with no markup
      
      email me if interested at _carlrayw(at)aol.com_ (mailto:carlrayw(at)aol.com) 
      
      It has been stored in a heated garage and is still in the crate. I have  used 
      a wrench to turn it over occasionally so I know it is still ok. Was going  to 
      start it up but decided it would be better not to unless I don't sell it,  
      then I will have to run it occasionally till I sell it.
      
      Reason for selling is that I don't think I will get to finish and fly my  kit 
      for a lot more years if ever so rather than have it sit for much longer I  
      would like to see someone get use of it. A hard decision to make but something
      I 
       must do. I would like to have someone pick it up or I could deliver it for a 
       shipping charge. I live in Michigan at Traverse City.
      
      Carl
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2005
From: 
Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: 
Re:  torque wrench calibration
      
      
      This was friction drag on the bolt from the wood,  The holes were so tight 
      you had to tap the bolts in and there was no way you could turn them by 
      hand.  Measured as high as 3 ft. lbs.  The spec called for 17 ft. lbs (I 
      don't remember the inch lb. numbers), so without adding the friction drag 
      amount I would only have gotten 14 ft. lbs,  short of the spec by 17%.
      
      At 09:25 PM 2/5/2005, you wrote:
      >
      >The torque on the wood prop was to give the correct amount of crush on the
      >wood
      >at that torque not to have that added to it.Consult the correct torque
      >tables, they will
      >  give it to you and don't just add to things because one thinks that is
      >right as that
      >  could over torque the bolt. There are specific torque's for certain grade
      >of bolt
      >  or for certain parts never exceed those values.
      >
      >-------Original Message-------
      >
      >From: Richard Scott
      >Date: 02/05/05 20:24:39
      >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      >
      >
      >OK, so you got your wrench calibrated within a gnats eyelash.  Are you
      >actually measuring the torque correctly?
      >
      >First, measure the drag the nut / bolt combination exerts.  Those nuts with
      >the inserts will give you a few inch pounds.  And the wood on my wood prop
      >initially gave several pounds.
      >
      >Then add the drag to the specified torque and use that number for your
      >torque setting.
      >
      >Richard Scott
      >RV-9 Wings
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 07, 2005
From: 
William Near <bnjn(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: 
Previous award recipients have been Charles.
      
      
      ALERT!
      
      This e-mail, in its original form, contained one or more attached files that were infected with a virus, worm, or other type of security threat. This e-mail was sent from a Road Runner IP address. As part of our continuing initiative to stop the spread of malicious viruses, Road Runner scans all outbound e-mail attachments. If a virus, worm, or other security threat is found, Road Runner cleans or deletes the infected attachments as necessary, but continues to send the original message content to the recipient. Further information on this initiative can be found at http://help.rr.com/faqs/e_mgsp.html.
      Please be advised that Road Runner does not contact the original sender of the
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      All Advising Faculty and staff are eligible.  If you wish to nominate someone,
      please follow the steps indicated under Nomination Procedures listed below, and
      submit your letter to the
      Registrars Office by Friday, April 12, 2002
      
      If you have questions about this award, please contact Mr. Smith in the Registrars Office at 461-7303, EXT 7303 or  HYPERLINK mailto:jsmith(at)hastings.edu jsmith(at)hastings.edu.
      
      Nomination Procedures:
      Any student, faculty member, or staff member at Hastings College is invited to
      nominate any advocate or academic advisor for the Hastings College Outstanding
      Advisor Award.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Craig & Pat Bottjen" <cbottjen(at)midlands.net>
Subject: 
pitot/static fuselage installation
Date: 
Feb 08, 2005
      
      
      I have been plumbing my RV9A and wanted to move on to the pitot/static
      installation but can't find anything about the placement or connectors etc.
      for the Pitot tube - static system. I have the bag with the static tubing,
      connector (two POP rivets??) but WHERE do I find anything about the
      installation. Am I missing something? I've gone thru the book about a half
      dozen times and other than installation in the wing, I find nothing
      regarding the system within the fuselage
      :-( I have my finish kit on order. Is there going to be something in the
      drawings that come with it?
      Could anyone point me to a page # or drawing? Thanx in advance... please
      save my sanity, I am feeling like a dunce
      (not the first time and probably not the last)
      Patty Bottjen
      Remsen, IA
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 08, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
Re:  torque wrench calibration
      
      
      You are correct to add the 3 ft lbs to your torque.
      
      RP
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Scott
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      
      
      This was friction drag on the bolt from the wood,  The holes were so
      tight 
      you had to tap the bolts in and there was no way you could turn them by 
      hand.  Measured as high as 3 ft. lbs.  The spec called for 17 ft. lbs (I
      
      don't remember the inch lb. numbers), so without adding the friction
      drag 
      amount I would only have gotten 14 ft. lbs,  short of the spec by 17%.
      
      At 09:25 PM 2/5/2005, you wrote:
      >
      >The torque on the wood prop was to give the correct amount of crush on
      the
      >wood
      >at that torque not to have that added to it.Consult the correct torque
      >tables, they will
      >  give it to you and don't just add to things because one thinks that
      is
      >right as that
      >  could over torque the bolt. There are specific torque's for certain
      grade
      >of bolt
      >  or for certain parts never exceed those values.
      >
      >-------Original Message-------
      >
      >From: Richard Scott
      >Date: 02/05/05 20:24:39
      >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: RV9-List: Re: torque wrench calibration
      >
      
      >
      >OK, so you got your wrench calibrated within a gnats eyelash.  Are you
      >actually measuring the torque correctly?
      >
      >First, measure the drag the nut / bolt combination exerts.  Those nuts
      with
      >the inserts will give you a few inch pounds.  And the wood on my wood
      prop
      >initially gave several pounds.
      >
      >Then add the drag to the specified torque and use that number for your
      >torque setting.
      >
      >Richard Scott
      >RV-9 Wings
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 08, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      Take a look on the DWG of the skin rivets, I think it's there with a
      note.
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig & Pat
      Bottjen
      Subject: RV9-List: pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      
      I have been plumbing my RV9A and wanted to move on to the pitot/static
      installation but can't find anything about the placement or connectors
      etc.
      for the Pitot tube - static system. I have the bag with the static
      tubing,
      connector (two POP rivets??) but WHERE do I find anything about the
      installation. Am I missing something? I've gone thru the book about a
      half
      dozen times and other than installation in the wing, I find nothing
      regarding the system within the fuselage
      :-( I have my finish kit on order. Is there going to be something in the
      drawings that come with it?
      Could anyone point me to a page # or drawing? Thanx in advance... please
      save my sanity, I am feeling like a dunce
      (not the first time and probably not the last)
      Patty Bottjen
      Remsen, IA
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2005
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      Hello, Patty
      
      See drawing #28, Detail "E" - almost centre page.
      
      Cliff
      RV9A Wings
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Craig & Pat Bottjen" <cbottjen(at)midlands.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      
      >
      > I have been plumbing my RV9A and wanted to move on to the pitot/static
      > installation but can't find anything about the placement or connectors
      etc.
      > for the Pitot tube - static system. I have the bag with the static tubing,
      > connector (two POP rivets??) but WHERE do I find anything about the
      > installation. Am I missing something? I've gone thru the book about a half
      > dozen times and other than installation in the wing, I find nothing
      > regarding the system within the fuselage
      > :-( I have my finish kit on order. Is there going to be something in the
      > drawings that come with it?
      > Could anyone point me to a page # or drawing? Thanx in advance... please
      > save my sanity, I am feeling like a dunce
      > (not the first time and probably not the last)
      > Patty Bottjen
      > Remsen, IA
      >
      >
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Surgsail(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 09, 2005
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      Hello there,
      
      Just finished installing the static system in my RV9-A last week.   There is 
      a drawing which comes with the parts for the static system.  The  "rivets" are
      
      the openings in the fuse for the system.  The madrels are  removed and the 
      tubing hooked to the rivets.  The location of the holes in  the fuse skin is on
      
      the drawing with all the rivet call outs for the skin.  
      
      I can scan and send you a set of the instructions if you can't find  yours.  
      
      Good luck,
      
      Richard Neeley
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Edcarris(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 09, 2005
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      Look at drawing 28, detail E
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 09, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
pitot/static fuselage installation
      
      
      Hi Richard Neeley
      Im just at this point too. And, I dont have the static system dwg. Ill really 
      appreciate if you could send me some drawings and photos.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      -9A QB
      #90997
      fuse
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Craig & Pat Bottjen" <cbottjen(at)midlands.net>
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage instrallation
Date: 
Feb 10, 2005
      
      
      I didn't receive any drawings or instructions with the static kit.  Richard,
      if the offer stands, would you send me a copy? Greatly appreciated.  Thanks
      to all who responded on and off list.
      
      Patty Bottjen 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Garforth" <richard(at)hawk.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: 
Re: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/09/05
Date: 
Feb 11, 2005
      
      
      JC,
      
      Take care when fitting the static ports on an RV9. the position shown on the 
      aircraft drawing is different to that shown on the drawing supplied with the 
      static port kit. The static kit drwg is for 6 & 7 s and it has been moved 
      one bulkhead further aft on the 9.
      
      Richard
      G-RVIX
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "RV9-List Digest Server" <rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
      Subject: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/09/05
      
      
      > *
      >
      > ==================================================
      >   Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
      > ==================================================
      >
      > Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found in either of the
      > two Web Links listed below.  The .html file includes the Digest formatted
      > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
      > and Message Navigation.  The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
      > of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
      > such as Notepad or with a web browser.
      >
      > HTML Version:
      >
      > 
      >
      > Text Version:
      >
      >    http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-02-09.txt
      >
      >
      > ================================================
      >   EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
      > ================================================
      >
      >
      >                           RV9-List Digest Archive
      >                                      ---
      >                     Total Messages Posted Wed 02/09/05: 3
      >
      >
      > Today's Message Index:
      > ----------------------
      >
      >     1. 12:47 PM - Re: pitot/static fuselage installation 
      > (Surgsail(at)aol.com)
      >     2. 03:06 PM - Re: pitot/static fuselage installation 
      > (Edcarris(at)aol.com)
      >     3. 03:06 PM - pitot/static fuselage installation  (jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR)
      >
      >
      > ________________________________  Message 1 
      > _____________________________________
      >
      >
      > From: Surgsail(at)aol.com
      > Subject: Re: RV9-List: pitot/static fuselage installation
      >
      >
      > Hello there,
      >
      > Just finished installing the static system in my RV9-A last week.   There 
      > is
      > a drawing which comes with the parts for the static system.  The  "rivets" 
      > are
      >
      > the openings in the fuse for the system.  The madrels are  removed and the
      > tubing hooked to the rivets.  The location of the holes in  the fuse skin 
      > is on
      >
      > the drawing with all the rivet call outs for the skin.
      >
      > I can scan and send you a set of the instructions if you can't find 
      > yours.
      >
      > Good luck,
      >
      > Richard Neeley
      >
      >
      > ________________________________  Message 2 
      > _____________________________________
      >
      >
      > From: Edcarris(at)aol.com
      > Subject: Re: RV9-List: pitot/static fuselage installation
      >
      >
      > Look at drawing 28, detail E
      >
      >
      > ________________________________  Message 3 
      > _____________________________________
      >
      >
      > From: jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
      > Subject: RV9-List: pitot/static fuselage installation
      >
      >
      > Hi Richard Neeley
      > Im just at this point too. And, I dont have the static system dwg. Ill 
      > really
      > appreciate if you could send me some drawings and photos.
      > JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      > -9A QB
      > #90997
      > fuse
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 11, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
pitot line umidity colector bottle
      
      
      Thanks Richard:
      Ill double check the static line position. 
      
      
      BTW, did some of you used a umidity colector bottle in lower point of pitot line?
      
      My last airplane had one bottle fixed on bulkhead.
      
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      #90997
      -9A QB
      fuse
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Surgsail(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 11, 2005
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage instrallation
      
      
      Hello Patty,
      
      Hope this helps.  Let me know if you have any problems.  Good  building!
      
      Richard Neeley
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Surgsail(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 11, 2005
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage instrallation
      
      
      And here is the attachment, hopefully.
      
      Dick
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: pitot/static fuselage instrallation
Date: 
Feb 11, 2005
      
      
      I strongly recommend checking the SafeAir1 site for pitot/static/AOA supplies,
      particularly if considering adding a Dynon10A to your panel.
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > And here is the attachment, hopefully. 
      > 
      > Dick 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      I strongly recommend checking the SafeAir1 site for pitot/static/AOA supplies,
      particularly if considering adding a Dynon10A to your panel.
      
      John Kerr
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: Surgsail(at)aol.com 
      
       And here is the attachment, hopefully. 
      
       Dick 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
From: 
Howard Kaney <hkaney(at)aosmail.com>
Subject: 
Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      Anyone have any recommendations for "trimming" the lead counterweights for the
      intial install?  What type of cutting tool is best suited for the task?
      
      Howard Kaney
      RV-9 
      
      This message was scanned and certified Virus Free by Alexssa | HNet.
      www.alexssa.net
      www.hnet.net
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
From: 
"Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: 
Re: Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      Howard,
      
      Best tool? Good question, cutting lead is messy. I used a hack saw with 18
      tpi and got fair results.
      
      Mike Ice
      RV-9, wings
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Howard Kaney" <hkaney(at)aosmail.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      >
      > Anyone have any recommendations for "trimming" the lead counterweights for
      the intial install?  What type of cutting tool is best suited for the task?
      >
      > Howard Kaney
      > RV-9
      >
      > This message was scanned and certified Virus Free by Alexssa | HNet.
      > www.alexssa.net
      > www.hnet.net
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      I did the first trimming with a hack saw and some oil on it to facilitate the cutting
      
      get away. I works fine. The final trimming will be done after the painting job,
      wit 
      drill bit and oil again.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      -9A QB
      #90997
      fuse
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sargentclt(at)cs.com
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      I used a bastard file.  Use it one direction and have a wire brush for 
      cleaning the metal out.  This worked best.  Finish up with a smoother file.  For
      a 
      great finish lightly hammer the edge.
      my .02
      
      Tad Sargent
      Sargentclt(at)CS.com
      RV7A
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      Howard,
      
      Sometimes I think the only clean way to trim the weights would be with an
      axe.  I'm not that accurate, however.  
      
      I pre-trimmed my weights on a mill.  I first milled them thinner to give
      more clearance between the elevator and HS.  It also gave a nice turned
      finish which I clear-coated.  I tried cutting them to size on a bandsaw and
      it can be done.  Do not let the lead get hot!  Cut a little at a time if
      you have to.  Aluminum cutting oil seemed to work best.  I didn't try a
      wood blade but it might work better than a metal cutting blade.  
      
      Bob Kelly, 90854
      
      On 02/15/05, Howard Kaney wrote:
      > 
      > Anyone have any recommendations for "trimming" the lead counterweights for
      > the intial install? What type of cutting tool is best suited for the task?
      > 
      > Howard Kaney
      > RV-9 
      > 
      > This message was scanned and certified Virus Free by Alexssa | HNet.
      > www.alexssa.net
      > www.hnet.net
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      Regards
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Elevator counterweights - trimming
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
      
      
      I found that a wood rasp worked well to fine trim the weights.  I think that
      in the end you will have to trim the weights again when you do the final
      assembly to get the elevators to be neutral with the stick weight factored
      in.
      
      Bob Perkinson
      Hendersonville, TN.
      RV9A
      If Nothing Changes
      Nothing Changes!
      
      
      On 02/15/05, Howard Kaney wrote:
      >
      > Anyone have any recommendations for "trimming" the lead counterweights for
      > the intial install? What type of cutting tool is best suited for the task?
      >
      > Howard Kaney
      > RV-9
      >
      > This message was scanned and certified Virus Free by Alexssa | HNet.
      > www.alexssa.net
      > www.hnet.net
      >
      >
      Regards
      --
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Feb 15, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Elevator counterweights - trimming
              autolearn=no version=2.63
      
      
      Hi Howard
      
      Here is my two bits worth - I have over 30 years autobody repair experience.
      
      When doing lead filling, I used the equivilent of a "vixen" file.  Very
      fast.  Clean.  Doesn't clog.  Get exactly the shape you want.  If you get a
      new file, try to not cut your fingers - because they do cut!!
      
      Now you have one more method!
      
      Cliff
      RV9A - wings
      Chase, BC
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Howard Kaney" <hkaney(at)aosmail.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Elevator counterweights - trimming
      
      
      >
      > Anyone have any recommendations for "trimming" the lead counterweights for
      the intial install?  What type of cutting tool is best suited for the task?
      >
      > Howard Kaney
      > RV-9
      >
      > This message was scanned and certified Virus Free by Alexssa | HNet.
      > www.alexssa.net
      > www.hnet.net
      >
      >
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Tank Dimpling
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      When dimpling the tank with the Cleveland Tools tank dimple die would it be
      proper to use it to dimple the nose ribs, and then use the standard dimple
      tool to dimple the skins?  My line of thinking is that the Cleveland tank
      dimple dies are slightly deeper than the standard dies and will allow the
      sealant to sit between the skin and the rib in the area of the rivet.  Or is
      the idea to have the dimple slightly deeper to allow the sealant to sit
      under the head of the rivet, in which case you would use the Cleveland
      dimplier for everything?  Am I about to make one of those $500 mistakes?
      
      
      Bob Perkinson
      Hendersonville, TN.
      RV9A
      If Nothing Changes
      Nothing Changes!
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jim Wright" <jlwright@cox-internet.com>
Subject: 
Tank Dimpling
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      I used it on both thinking the whole purpose was to get the rivet head
      to sit flush. I hope I was right!!!!
      
      Jim 90919  wings  Arkansas
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca>
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Tank Dimpling
              autolearn=no version=2.63
      
      
      Hi Bob,
      
      I used the tank dies on the ribs AND skins.  They turned out beautifully!
      Not even the slightest depression at the rivets, as in the leading edge.  If
      I had used the sealant on the leading edge too, the whole thing would have
      been as smooth as composite. - In other words, use the tank dies on the
      whole thing.
      
      Cliff
      RV9A - wings
      Chase, BC
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimpling
      
      
      >
      > When dimpling the tank with the Cleveland Tools tank dimple die would it
      be
      > proper to use it to dimple the nose ribs, and then use the standard dimple
      > tool to dimple the skins?  My line of thinking is that the Cleveland tank
      > dimple dies are slightly deeper than the standard dies and will allow the
      > sealant to sit between the skin and the rib in the area of the rivet.  Or
      is
      > the idea to have the dimple slightly deeper to allow the sealant to sit
      > under the head of the rivet, in which case you would use the Cleveland
      > dimplier for everything?  Am I about to make one of those $500 mistakes?
      >
      >
      > Bob Perkinson
      > Hendersonville, TN.
      > RV9A
      > If Nothing Changes
      > Nothing Changes!
      >
      >
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
FW: RV9 weights
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      >  -----Original Message-----
      > From:         Steve Sampson [mailto:SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu] 
      > Sent:        15 February 2005 07:24
      > To:        rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject:        RV9 weights
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > I would be very interested to see what the weights of the -9A that are
      > flying is and what equipment they have. Has any one kept a record as
      > people have mentioned them.
      > 
      > Thanks, Steve.
      > 
      > #90360 G-IINI
      > 
      > PS I have several times noticed US builders declaring the gross at
      > 1850lbs. My spec sheet says 1750. Why the discrepancy?
      > 
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >  
      > 
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >  
      > 
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
From: 
Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: 
Re: Tank Dimpling
      
      
      Bob Perkinson wrote:
      
      >
      >When dimpling the tank with the Cleveland Tools tank dimple die would it be
      >proper to use it to dimple the nose ribs, and then use the standard dimple
      >tool to dimple the skins?  My line of thinking is that the Cleveland tank
      >dimple dies are slightly deeper than the standard dies and will allow the
      >sealant to sit between the skin and the rib in the area of the rivet.  Or is
      >the idea to have the dimple slightly deeper to allow the sealant to sit
      >under the head of the rivet,
      >
      This is the reason.  If you use standard dimple dies on the skin, the 
      rivet heads will sit above the skin. I f you already have the tank 
      dimples - use them.  If you do not have them yet, an alternative is to 
      just use your deburring tool to slightly enlarge the dimple on the 
      skin.  Just take a light turn or two.
      
      Dick Tasker
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: 
Tank Dimpling        autolearn=no version=2.63
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      I concur; I used the tanks dies on tanks, elevators, ailerons and wing skins
      - beautiful.
      
      Michle - RV8 Wings
      
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
      > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of D,C,Jones
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 6:41 PM
      > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tank Dimpling autolearn=no version=2.63
      > 
      > 
      > Hi Bob,
      > 
      > I used the tank dies on the ribs AND skins.  They turned out beautifully!
      > Not even the slightest depression at the rivets, as in the leading edge.
      > If
      > I had used the sealant on the leading edge too, the whole thing would have
      > been as smooth as composite. - In other words, use the tank dies on the
      > whole thing.
      > 
      > Cliff
      > RV9A - wings
      > Chase, BC
      > 
      > 
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
      > To: "Matronics RV-9 List" 
      > Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimpling
      > 
      > 
      > >
      > > When dimpling the tank with the Cleveland Tools tank dimple die would it
      > be
      > > proper to use it to dimple the nose ribs, and then use the standard
      > dimple
      > > tool to dimple the skins?  My line of thinking is that the Cleveland
      > tank
      > > dimple dies are slightly deeper than the standard dies and will allow
      > the
      > > sealant to sit between the skin and the rib in the area of the rivet.
      > Or
      > is
      > > the idea to have the dimple slightly deeper to allow the sealant to sit
      > > under the head of the rivet, in which case you would use the Cleveland
      > > dimplier for everything?  Am I about to make one of those $500 mistakes?
      > >
      > >
      > > Bob Perkinson
      > > Hendersonville, TN.
      > > RV9A
      > > If Nothing Changes
      > > Nothing Changes!
      > >
      > >
      > > --
      > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      > >
      > >
      > 
      > 
      > --
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
From: 
Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: 
How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      Doing both slow build wings at the same time.  How many 3/32 clecos do I 
      need?  I have 400.  Is that enough?  I'll probably put one in about every 
      4th hole.
      
      Richard Scott
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org>
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
Subject: 
Re: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      Richard,
      
      That should do fine.  I found that often I could use less clecos in some
      areas, especially places that were not being riveted.  It doesn't take many
      to hold the main skins on while you are building the leading edges, for
      instance.  And you don't really need to have all the flaps/ailerons clecoed
      as you rivet the wings.  I think I used about 350 tops.  
      
      Bob Kelly, 90854
      
      On 02/16/05, Richard Scott wrote:
      > 
      > Doing both slow build wings at the same time.  How many 3/32 clecos do I 
      > need?  I have 400.  Is that enough?  I'll probably put one in about every 
      > 4th hole.
      > 
      > Richard Scott
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      Regards
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
From: 
Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: 
Re: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      Richard,
      
      I am building the wings right now and have probably 400 clecos. Just put on the
      leading edges last night and looking at my remaining cleco's, I would say I don't
      have enough. So I will probably go and buy another 200.
      
      Mike
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 12:19 pm
      Subject: RV9-List: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      > 
      > Doing both slow build wings at the same time.  How many 3/32 
      > clecos do I 
      > need?  I have 400.  Is that enough?  I'll probably put one in 
      > about every 
      > 4th hole.
      > 
      > Richard Scott
      > 
      > 
      > _-
      > _-
      > _-
      > =====================================================================
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      I built my wings one at a time with 300 3/32 clecos.  I had to rob a few
      from one place to another but 300 worked out ok. In fact my fuselage is
      done except for the boot cowl and slider.  You don't fill every hole.
      Every other around a radius is fine.  You may even have to clecoe every
      hole in a radius to get started but believe me 300 will do.
      
      My .02.
      
      Roger Ping A&P for 29 years.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      Richard,
      
      I am building the wings right now and have probably 400 clecos. Just put
      on the leading edges last night and looking at my remaining cleco's, I
      would say I don't have enough. So I will probably go and buy another
      200.
      
      Mike
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 12:19 pm
      Subject: RV9-List: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      > 
      > Doing both slow build wings at the same time.  How many 3/32 
      > clecos do I 
      > need?  I have 400.  Is that enough?  I'll probably put one in 
      > about every 
      > 4th hole.
      > 
      > Richard Scott
      > 
      > 
      > _-
      > _-
      > _-
      > =====================================================================
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: 
Re: FW: RV9 weights
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      >> I would be very interested to see what the weights of the -9A that are
      >> flying is and what equipment they have. Has any one kept a record as
      >> people have mentioned them.
      
      You can find this information by searching the Matronics archives.  Someone 
      made a really nice spreadsheet.  Mine is 1070 lbs, 0320 and constant speed 
      prop.
      
      Dale 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jim Wright" <jlwright@cox-internet.com>
Subject: 
How many clecos needed for wings?
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      I used 600 and was just enough and I only built one wing at a time. I
      cleco'd nearly every other hole sometimes every third hole. One benefit
      I think was my wing had almost zero twist when I was finished. 
      Jim  90919 wings Arkansas
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: 
static port tubing runs
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      can anyone show me some picture of the tubing and how you got it 
      configured.. ?
      
      Danny.. 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
How many clecos needed for wings?
Date: 
Feb 16, 2005
      
      
      How many can you afford?  Because you will always be able to use more.
      
      Bob Perkinson
      Hendersonville, TN.
      RV9A
      If Nothing Changes
      Nothing Changes!
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
      Subject: RV9-List: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      Doing both slow build wings at the same time.  How many 3/32 clecos do I
      need?  I have 400.  Is that enough?  I'll probably put one in about every
      4th hole.
      
      Richard Scott
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sargentclt(at)cs.com
Date: 
Feb 17, 2005
Subject: 
Re: How many clecos needed for wings?
      
      
      That should be plenty.
      
      Tad Sargent
      Sargentclt(at)CS.com
      RV7A
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: static port tubing runs
Date: 
Feb 17, 2005
      
      
      Danny, i can get you some pictures if you need but a narrative may be more helpful.
      Starting at the two static ports, I brought the lines to a tee high on the
      left side then brought it forward close to the upper longeron. After the bulkhead
      behind the seats there was sufficient space between the upper longeron and
      the wraparound cabin sill to run it forward from there without further drilling.
      I am currently noodling how to get the AOA and Pitot lines run from behind
      the spar carrythrough up to join the static line and forward to the panel,
      
      John Kerr, mostly wiring and fiberglass remaining RV9 (Only 8 hrs in tri-gear)
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > can anyone show me some picture of the tubing and how you got it 
      > configured.. ? 
      > 
      > Danny.. 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Danny, i can get you some pictures if you need but a narrative may be more helpful.
      Starting at the two static ports, I brought the lines to a tee high on the
      left side then brought it forward close to the upper longeron.After the bulkheadbehind
      the seats there was sufficient space between the upper longeron and
      the wraparound cabin sill to run it forward from there without further drilling.
      I am currently noodling how to get the AOA and Pitot lines run from behind
      the spar carrythroughup to join the static line and forward to the panel,
      
      John Kerr, mostly wiring and fiberglass remaining RV9 (Only 8 hrs in tri-gear)
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: "sportpilot" 
      
       can anyone show me some picture of the tubing and how you got it 
       configured.. ? 
      
       Danny.. 
      
      
       9-List.htm 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
Subject: 
Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
From: 
Brice Bowman <brice(at)earshotaudiopost.com>
      
      
      From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple dies ARE used on the tank
      skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple dies) indicates a couple
      of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to make room for Pro Seal under
      the rivet. After helping a couple of people build tanks, I have learned that
      the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the skin where it contacts
      the rib...in the dimple depression before inserting the rivet...and you even
      dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and squeezing or bucking.
      
      
      Brice Bowman
      RV-9A Wings
      Indianapolis, In  
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
         
Subject: 
Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
      
      
      I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame together
      and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached.  The problem I
      have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the
      side of the fuselage.  On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the passenger
      side is even worse.  I expected some amount of this but not as much and I
      really don't like it.  The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge
      lines up nicely.
      
      Have others had this much of an overhang?  Anything you can do to reduce it?
      Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of
      misaligning the holes.
      
      Possible options:
      
      1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides to
      line up once the canopy is screwed on.
      2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
      (Dangerous!?)
      3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
      engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in
      when closed.
      
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: 
Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
      
      
      Correct, that is what I did - with Cleaveland tank dies - no leaks, great
      smooth finish. Just a word though, before setting the rivet, wipe the
      ProSeal off of both ends of the rivet so that the rivet set and bucking bar
      should not slip.
      
      Michle
      RV8 - Wings
      
      
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
      > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brice Bowman
      > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 3:54 PM
      > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
      > 
      > 
      > From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple dies ARE used on the tank
      > skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple dies) indicates a couple
      > of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to make room for Pro Seal
      > under
      > the rivet. After helping a couple of people build tanks, I have learned
      > that
      > the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the skin where it contacts
      > the rib...in the dimple depression before inserting the rivet...and you
      > even
      > dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and squeezing or bucking.
      > 
      > 
      > Brice Bowman
      > RV-9A Wings
      > Indianapolis, In
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
      
      
      I might add it is good thing to have a good supply of
      cleaning material on hand before you start.  This will
      be one of those jobs you will love when it is
      finished.
      Denis Thomas
      Getting ready to do my first annual
      --- owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
      
      > 
      > Correct, that is what I did - with Cleaveland tank
      > dies - no leaks, great
      > smooth finish. Just a word though, before setting
      > the rivet, wipe the
      > ProSeal off of both ends of the rivet so that the
      > rivet set and bucking bar
      > should not slip.
      > 
      > Michle
      > RV8 - Wings
      > 
      > 
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
      > > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brice Bowman
      > > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 3:54 PM
      > > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > > Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
      > > 
      > 
      > > 
      > > From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple
      > dies ARE used on the tank
      > > skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple
      > dies) indicates a couple
      > > of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to
      > make room for Pro Seal
      > > under
      > > the rivet. After helping a couple of people build
      > tanks, I have learned
      > > that
      > > the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the
      > skin where it contacts
      > > the rib...in the dimple depression before
      > inserting the rivet...and you
      > > even
      > > dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and
      > squeezing or bucking.
      > > 
      > > 
      > > Brice Bowman
      > > RV-9A Wings
      > > Indianapolis, In
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jim Wright" <jlwright@cox-internet.com>
Subject: 
Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
      
      
      I got a tip from a video on building tanks that makes sense. I cut a
      bunch of paper shop towels in four pieces or about 4 inch squares. They
      were real handy and I didn't waste nearly as many towels. This is one of
      those jobs that the cleaner you keep everything the better off you are.
      Laying down butcher paper on the table was another good thing. It made
      clean up a lot easier. I have finished one tank and I'm not dreading the
      other one as much as I thought I would.
      
      Jim Wright  RV-9A  wings  Arkansas
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
From: 
"Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: 
leading edge to fuel tank difference
      
      
      Hello,
      
      Today I fitted the tanks together and placed them on the main spar. The leading
      edge of the tanks are not matching with the leading edges of the outboard leading
      edge assemblies. The fuel tank leading edge is approx.,  the skin thickness,
      or 1/32" higher than the other skin. Has anyone else had this problem? What
      is a solution?
      
      Mike  Ice
      RV-9, Wings, slow build
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: 
Re: leading edge to fuel tank difference
Date: 
Feb 21, 2005
      
      
      It is natural for the tank skin to be slightly higher as it is thicker sheet 
      aluminum.  It may seem like 1/32 of an inch, but would not be that much. 
      Not a big deal
      
      John Oliveira
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: leading edge to fuel tank difference
      
      
      >
      > Hello,
      >
      > Today I fitted the tanks together and placed them on the main spar. The 
      > leading edge of the tanks are not matching with the leading edges of the 
      > outboard leading edge assemblies. The fuel tank leading edge is approx., 
      > the skin thickness, or 1/32" higher than the other skin. Has anyone else 
      > had this problem? What is a solution?
      >
      > Mike  Ice
      > RV-9, Wings, slow build
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bruce  Cruikshank" <n19z(at)dslextreme.com>
Subject: 
Canopy frame
Date: 
Feb 22, 2005
      
      
      Matthew,
      
      Find someone with a shrinker/streacher and you can adjust the lower flange of the
      rails to match the cockpit rails.  (With the canopy removed)  The Frame needs
      to fit without the canopy attached.  I borrowed one from a friend and could
      not have done the job without it.
      
      Bruce, doing fiberglass :(
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Nutplate Question
Date: 
Feb 22, 2005
      
      
      Van tells us in section 5 that when installing nutplates that they are
      normally installed with A426AD3.  When the structure is to thin to
      countersink then it should be dimpled along with the nutplate.  Question.
      What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and installed
      on a dimpled structure?
      
      
      Bob Perkinson
      Hendersonville, TN.
      RV9A
      If Nothing Changes
      Nothing Changes!
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bill Cary" <williamc(at)abac.com>
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
Date: 
Feb 22, 2005
      
      
      >
       Question.
      > What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and
      installed
      > on a dimpled structure?
      
           The way I see it, the nutplate will not be flush with the surface it's
      mounted to.  When a screw is tightned, either the screw will be pulled
      inward possible putting an indentation in the joining piece and piece
      holding the nutplate or the nutplate will force the dimples with rivets
      outwards.  In either case you end up with a weak connection and probably
      will find that the joint never stays tight.  I suggest dimpling the
      nutplates.
      Just my $0.02 worth.
      
      Bill RV-9A wings
      Ramona, CA
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 23, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
From: 
Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      
      
      Bill, 
      
      Are you sure about this? I've attached dozens of nutplates to dimpled ribs
      and skins, but I haven't dimpled a single nutplate. Hope I haven't made a
      major goof!
      
      Mark
      
      
      >Question.
      > What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and
      >installed on a dimpled structure?
      
      > The way I see it, the nutplate will not be flush with the surface it's
      > mounted to.  When a screw is tightned, either the screw will be pulled
      > inward possible putting an indentation in the joining piece and piece
      > holding the nutplate or the nutplate will force the dimples with rivets
      > outwards.  In either case you end up with a weak connection and probably
      > will find that the joint never stays tight.  I suggest dimpling the
      > nutplates.
      > Just my $0.02 worth.
      > 
      > Bill RV-9A wings
      > Ramona, CA
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
Date: 
Feb 23, 2005
      
      
      I have always dimpled my nutplates when called for.  Just my .02.  Glenn in
      AZ -9a fuselage
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Re: Nutplate Question
      
      
      >
      > Bill,
      >
      > Are you sure about this? I've attached dozens of nutplates to dimpled ribs
      > and skins, but I haven't dimpled a single nutplate. Hope I haven't made a
      > major goof!
      >
      > Mark
      >
      >
      > >Question.
      > > What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and
      > >installed on a dimpled structure?
      >
      > > The way I see it, the nutplate will not be flush with the surface it's
      > > mounted to.  When a screw is tightned, either the screw will be pulled
      > > inward possible putting an indentation in the joining piece and piece
      > > holding the nutplate or the nutplate will force the dimples with rivets
      > > outwards.  In either case you end up with a weak connection and probably
      > > will find that the joint never stays tight.  I suggest dimpling the
      > > nutplates.
      > > Just my $0.02 worth.
      > >
      > > Bill RV-9A wings
      > > Ramona, CA
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 23, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
      
      
      If .02 cents worth is allowed, I agree with Bill.  It
      is probably one of those things you may be able to get
      away with but why take the chance.  Consideer it will
      only take a few minutes to dimple a few nutplates. 
      Compare that to the grief you will having to go back
      and redo if your rivets start working.
      
      Dennis Thomas
      --- Mark Schrimmer  wrote:
      
      > 
      > 
      > Bill, 
      > 
      > Are you sure about this? I've attached dozens of
      > nutplates to dimpled ribs
      > and skins, but I haven't dimpled a single nutplate.
      > Hope I haven't made a
      > major goof!
      > 
      > Mark
      > 
      > 
      > >Question.
      > > What problems will be created if the nutplate is
      > not dimpled, and
      > >installed on a dimpled structure?
      > 
      > > The way I see it, the nutplate will not be flush
      > with the surface it's
      > > mounted to.  When a screw is tightned, either the
      > screw will be pulled
      > > inward possible putting an indentation in the
      > joining piece and piece
      > > holding the nutplate or the nutplate will force
      > the dimples with rivets
      > > outwards.  In either case you end up with a weak
      > connection and probably
      > > will find that the joint never stays tight.  I
      > suggest dimpling the
      > > nutplates.
      > > Just my $0.02 worth.
      > > 
      > > Bill RV-9A wings
      > > Ramona, CA
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 23, 2005
From: 
Bill Cary <cary(at)Fusion.gat.com>
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
      
      
      Mark Schrimmer wrote:
      
      >
      >Bill,
      >
      >Are you sure about this? I've attached dozens of nutplates to dimpled ribs
      >and skins, but I haven't dimpled a single nutplate. Hope I haven't made a
      >major goof!
      >
      >Mark
      >
      
      Hi Mark,
      
         Not sure you made a major goof or not.
          IMHO: It just seems that if the surface is dimpled and the 
      nutplate is neither dimpled nor countersunk then the nutplate will be 
      resting on the raised material formed from the dimple process.  When 
      you tighten the screw, at some point something has to give until the 
      nutplate is pulled flush to it's mounting surface. That process 
      could/will cause material to bend in a way that may not be what the 
      designer/builder intended.
            If not dimpling worked for you, go for it.  That's your choice 
      and that's why these are Experimental aircraft.  You can almost 
      anything you want.
      
      Bill
      RV-9A wings
      Ramona, CA
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 24, 2005
From: 
smbluthing(at)volexpress.com
Subject: 
[Spam] Nutplate Question
      
      
          Subject:        Nutplate Question
      From:      Bob Perkinson (bobperk(at)bellsouth.net 
      ) 
      
      Date:      Tue Feb 22 - 9:55 PM
      
      
      Van tells us in section 5 that when installing nutplates that they are
      normally installed with A426AD3.  When the structure is to thin to
      countersink then it should be dimpled along with the nutplate.  Question.
      What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and installed
      on a dimpled structure?
      
      
      Bob Perkinson
      Hendersonville, TN.
      RV9A
      If Nothing Changes
      
      
      Nothing Changes!
      
      this is what a tech told me a van's about this....he said you
      you could machine countersink the back side of the nutplate...i did 
      this with the avery hand swivel tool with the deburing bit installed...
      hope this helps....i know i have recieved much help from this list thanks all
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Oliveira" <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: 
Re: Nutplate Question
Date: 
Feb 24, 2005
      
      
      You don't need to dimple the nutplates.  if you draw a diagram in cross 
      section you will see that the nutplate rests pretty equally on the dimpls 
      for the rivets and the dimple for the machine screw.   When assembled, 
      everything is fine.
      
      John Oliveira
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: Re: Nutplate Question
      
      
      >
      > Bill,
      >
      > Are you sure about this? I've attached dozens of nutplates to dimpled ribs
      > and skins, but I haven't dimpled a single nutplate. Hope I haven't made a
      > major goof!
      >
      > Mark
      >
      >
      >>Question.
      >> What problems will be created if the nutplate is not dimpled, and
      >>installed on a dimpled structure?
      >
      >> The way I see it, the nutplate will not be flush with the surface it's
      >> mounted to.  When a screw is tightned, either the screw will be pulled
      >> inward possible putting an indentation in the joining piece and piece
      >> holding the nutplate or the nutplate will force the dimples with rivets
      >> outwards.  In either case you end up with a weak connection and probably
      >> will find that the joint never stays tight.  I suggest dimpling the
      >> nutplates.
      >> Just my $0.02 worth.
      >>
      >> Bill RV-9A wings
      >> Ramona, CA
      >>
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Power Settings
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
      
      
      I need to develop a chart with operational power settings, i.e
      Altitude/RPM/MP/ Power Developed.
      
      Does anyone have or know of a program/ spread sheet that will do this for
      me? I would be very grateful for a copy. Alternatively, just some practical
      cruise settings.
      
      I would like to be able to set up less than 75% or 65% power, confidently,
      outside the prop avoid band at a variety of altitudes.
      
      Ideally it needs to be for an O-320 but I expect % power would be very
      similar for an O-360
      
      Thanks, Steve.
      
      
      #90360
      G-IINI
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
From: 
rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: 
Re: Power Settings
      
      
      Here you go... it's for an IO360, but it can be modified for an O-320 
      using the data in the Lycoming operators' manual.
      http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/index.php?topic=Engine
      
      Look on the links list on the right side.
      
      Vern Little
      
      Steve Sampson wrote:
      
      >
      >I need to develop a chart with operational power settings, i.e
      >Altitude/RPM/MP/ Power Developed.
      >
      >Does anyone have or know of a program/ spread sheet that will do this for
      >me? I would be very grateful for a copy. Alternatively, just some practical
      >cruise settings.
      >
      >I would like to be able to set up less than 75% or 65% power, confidently,
      >outside the prop avoid band at a variety of altitudes.
      >
      >Ideally it needs to be for an O-320 but I expect % power would be very
      >similar for an O-360
      >
      >Thanks, Steve.
      >
      >
      >#90360
      >G-IINI
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Power settings
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
      
      
      I need to develop a chart with operational power settings, i.e
      Altitude/RPM/MP/ Power Developed.
      
      Does anyone have or know of a program/ spread sheet that will do this for
      me? I would be very grateful for a copy.
      
      I would like to be able to set up less than 75% or 65% power, confidently,
      outside the prop avoid band at a variety of altitudes.
      
      Thanks, Steve.
      
      #90360
      O-320
      G-IINI
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Power Settings
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
      
      
      Vern, Wow that was quick! Thanks, Steve.
      
      PS Apologies to the list my message went twice.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rv-9a-online
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Power Settings
      
      
      Here you go... it's for an IO360, but it can be modified for an O-320 
      using the data in the Lycoming operators' manual.
      http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/index.php?topic=Engine
      
      Look on the links list on the right side.
      
      Vern Little
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
Subject: 
Rpm on 0320
      
      
      I'm wondering if any one out there could tell me what kind of rpm's they  are 
      getting on an RV 9 A. On climb out I'm getting around 2250 and wide open I'm  
      getting only up to 2540. At 8000 ft I indicate 148 knots .  I'm  running a 
      sensenich 70 inch 79 pitch metal prop.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: 
Re: Rpm on 0320
Date: 
Feb 25, 2005
      
      
      Neil:  I have an O-320 with a Sensenich 70CM with 79" pitch on my 9A, and my 
      numbers are virtually identical to yours.  I have flown a triangular course 
      at 8000 MSL, Barometer-29.72, OAT-62F., 1450 lbs. and came up with 153 knots 
      at an RPM of about 2570 RPM. I was initially disappointed based on Van's 
      numbers but I got over it.  Most of my flying is at about 2050 RPM where I 
      can make 120 KTS on 6 gallons per hour.
      
      Dick Jones 90062
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <Neilekins(at)aol.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Rpm on 0320
      
      
      >
      > I'm wondering if any one out there could tell me what kind of rpm's they 
      > are
      > getting on an RV 9 A. On climb out I'm getting around 2250 and wide open 
      > I'm
      > getting only up to 2540. At 8000 ft I indicate 148 knots .  I'm  running a
      > sensenich 70 inch 79 pitch metal prop.
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
n509rw(at)comcast.net (Dick Watson)
Subject: 
Re: Rpm on 0320
Date: 
Feb 26, 2005
      
      
      Niel,  
      I have the O320, 160hp with the same prop.  My four way GPS run at 8000', was
      a max RPM of 2580 and 187 mph (162k) average speed.
      My initial take off RPM is about 2230 RPM at 5600' airport elevation.
      Some additional data I took at 6500', 47 degrees was:
      RPM      IAS (mph)
      2400      155
      2300      148
      2200      143
      2100      138
      
      Dick
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > I'm wondering if any one out there could tell me what kind of rpm's they are
      
      > getting on an RV 9 A. On climb out I'm getting around 2250 and wide open I'm
      
      > getting only up to 2540. At 8000 ft I indicate 148 knots . I'm running a 
      > sensenich 70 inch 79 pitch metal prop. 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Niel, 
      I have the O320, 160hp with the same prop. My four way GPS run at 8000', was
      a max RPM of 2580 and 187 mph (162k) average speed.
      My initial take off RPM is about 2230 RPM at 5600' airport elevation.
      Some additional data I took at 6500', 47 degrees was:
      RPM IAS (mph)
      2400 155
      2300 148
      2200 143
      2100138
      
      Dick
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: Neilekins(at)aol.com 
      
       I'm wondering if any one out there could tell me what kind of rpm's they are 
       getting on an RV 9 A. On climb out I'm getting around 2250 and wide open I'm 
       getting only up to 2540. At 8000 ft I indicate 148 knots . I'm running a 
       sensenich 70 inch 79 pitch metal prop. 
      
      
       _
       -= Post Message: rv9-list(at)matronics.com 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 26, 2005
From: 
David Edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
Subject: 
Re: {pwer Settings
      
      
      Steve,
      I've enclose the chart that I use with my RV-9A. I'm using an Aerosport 
      0-320-D1A with a Hartzell constant speed prop. The data for the table 
      came straight out of
      the Lycoming Users Manual. Their chart is a pain to use but I've done it 
      and will not have to again.
      
      I find that normal flying with the guys (3000' to 5000' )  tends to be 
      done around 23/2300 to 24/2400. By myself I tend
      to fly higher (around 7000' to 8000' ) and run wide open at 2300 or 2400.
      
      Another setting that kind of neat when you're just loafing around is 
      2200 and 18 or 19 inches.  This is about 50 % and is good for 130 - 135 
      knots. Just amazing.
      
      
                Power Chart (Percentage)
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      Percent Power vs Density altitude
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      Map
      
              
      
      RPM
      
              
      
      0
      
              
      
      1000
      
              
      
      2000
      
              
      
      3000
      
              
      
      4000
      
              
      
      5000
      
              
      
      6000
      
              
      
      7000
      
              
      
      8000
      
              
      
      9000
      
              
      
      10000
      
              
      
      11000
      
              
      
      12000
      
      18
      
              
      
      2000
      
              
      
      0.34
      
              
      
      0.37
      
              
      
      0.39
      
              
      
      0.40
      
              
      
      0.42
      
              
      
      0.43
      
              
      
      0.44
      
              
      
      0.45
      
              
      
      0.46
      
              
      
      0.48
      
              
      
      0.49
      
              
      
      0.50
      
              
      
      0.52
      
      20
      
              
      
      2000
      
              
      
      0.44
      
              
      
      0.45
      
              
      
      0.46
      
              
      
      0.48
      
              
      
      0.49
      
              
      
      0.51
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.55
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      21
      
              
      
      2100
      
              
      
      0.51
      
              
      
      0.52
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.55
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      18
      
              
      
      2200
      
              
      
      0.41
      
              
      
      0.42
      
              
      
      0.43
      
              
      
      0.44
      
              
      
      0.46
      
              
      
      0.47
      
              
      
      0.48
      
              
      
      0.49
      
              
      
      0.51
      
              
      
      0.52
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.56
      
      20
      
              
      
      2200
      
              
      
      0.49
      
              
      
      0.50
      
              
      
      0.51
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      21
      
              
      
      2200
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.55
      
              
      
      0.57
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      22
      
              
      
      2200
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      0.67
      
              
      
      0.68
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      20
      
              
      
      2300
      
              
      
      0.52
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      21
      
              
      
      2300
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      0.67
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      22
      
              
      
      2300
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      0.67
      
              
      
      0.68
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      23
      
              
      
      2300
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      0.67
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.70
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      18
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.47
      
              
      
      0.48
      
              
      
      0.49
      
              
      
      0.50
      
              
      
      0.52
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.55
      
              
      
      0.57
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
      20
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.56
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      21
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.60
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      0.68
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      22
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      0.67
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      0.72
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      23
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.70
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.77
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      24
      
              
      
      2400
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      0.75
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.78
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      0.80
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      23
      
              
      
      2500
      
              
      
      0.72
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      0.75
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.77
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      24
      
              
      
      2500
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.78
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      0.80
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      0.83
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      25
      
              
      
      2500
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      0.83
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      0.86
      
              
      
      0.86
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      18
      
              
      
      2600
      
              
      
      0.52
      
              
      
      0.53
      
              
      
      0.54
      
              
      
      0.55
      
              
      
      0.57
      
              
      
      0.58
      
              
      
      0.59
      
              
      
      0.61
      
              
      
      0.62
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      
              
      
      0.65
      
      24
      
              
      
      2600
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      0.80
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      0.83
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      25
      
              
      
      2600
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      0.86
      
              
      
      0.88
      
              
      
      0.91
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      26
      
              
      
      2600
      
              
      
      0.89
      
              
      
      0.90
      
              
      
      0.92
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      20
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.63
      
              
      
      0.64
      
              
      
      0.65
      
              
      
      0.66
      
              
      
      0.68
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      0.72
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      21
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.68
      
              
      
      0.69
      
              
      
      0.70
      
              
      
      0.71
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.77
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      22
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.72
      
              
      
      0.73
      
              
      
      0.74
      
              
      
      0.76
      
              
      
      0.78
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      0.80
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      23
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.77
      
              
      
      0.78
      
              
      
      0.79
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      0.83
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      24
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.81
      
              
      
      0.83
      
              
      
      0.84
      
              
      
      0.86
      
              
      
      0.88
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      25
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.86
      
              
      
      0.88
      
              
      
      0.89
      
              
      
      0.91
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      26
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.91
      
              
      
      0.93
      
              
      
      0.95
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      27
      
              
      
      2700
      
              
      
      0.96
      
              
      
      0.98
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
              
      
      
      > 
      >________________________________  Message 1  _____________________________________
      >
      >
      >From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
      >Subject: RV9-List: Power Settings
      >
      >
      >I need to develop a chart with operational power settings, i.e
      >Altitude/RPM/MP/ Power Developed.
      >
      >Does anyone have or know of a program/ spread sheet that will do this for
      >me? I would be very grateful for a copy. Alternatively, just some practical
      >cruise settings.
      >
      >I would like to be able to set up less than 75% or 65% power, confidently,
      >outside the prop avoid band at a variety of altitudes.
      >
      >Ideally it needs to be for an O-320 but I expect % power would be very
      >similar for an O-360
      >
      >Thanks, Steve.
      >
      >
      >#90360
      >G-IINI
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
KDMIGAS(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 26, 2005
Subject: 
(no subject)
      
      
      I'm getting close to the final inspection and am wondering if anyone has or 
      knows of a good format for a 9A Operating Manual.. What have any of the "now 
      flying" types done.. Any 
       suggestions would be appreciated               
      
      Dick Migas,finish kit
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 27, 2005
From: 
David Edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
Subject: 
Re: Power Settings
      
      
      Okay lets try this again. Sorry about the formatting last time. Gotta 
      love Microsoft word.
      
      I also threw in some data from tests that I did back in December. Gives 
      you a feel for how the 9 does up high and at difference power settings.
      These flights were made before fairing the nose gear and gear leg but 
      the main wheel pants and leg fairings were in place. I've subsequently
      installed the nose gear pant and fairings but have not redone the tests. 
      I would "guess" that maybe theirs another couple of knots there but I'm not
      sure yet.
      
      > 
      >________________________________  Message 1  _____________________________________
      >
      >
      >From: David Edgemon <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
      >Subject: RV9-List: Re: {pwer Settings
      >
      >
      >Steve,
      >I've enclose the chart that I use with my RV-9A. I'm using an Aerosport 
      >0-320-D1A with a Hartzell constant speed prop. The data for the table 
      >came straight out of
      >the Lycoming Users Manual. Their chart is a pain to use but I've done it 
      >and will not have to again.
      >
      >I find that normal flying with the guys (3000' to 5000' )  tends to be 
      >done around 23/2300 to 24/2400. By myself I tend
      >to fly higher (around 7000' to 8000' ) and run wide open at 2300 or 2400.
      >
      >Another setting that kind of neat when you're just loafing around is 
      >2200 and 18 or 19 inches.  This is about 50 % and is good for 130 - 135 
      >knots. Just amazing.
      >
      >
      >          Power Chart (Percentage)
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      Power Chart (Percentage)
      Percent Power vs Density altitude
      Map RPM 0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 10000 11000 12000
      18 2000 0.34 0.37 0.39 0.40 0.42 0.43 0.44 0.45 0.46 0.48 0.49 0.50 0.52
      20 2000 0.44 0.45 0.46 0.48 0.49 0.51 0.53 0.54 0.55 0.56 0.58
      21 2100 0.51 0.52 0.54 0.55 0.56 0.58 0.59 0.61 0.61 0.63
      18 2200 0.41 0.42 0.43 0.44 0.46 0.47 0.48 0.49 0.51 0.52 0.53 0.54 0.56
      20 2200 0.49 0.50 0.51 0.53 0.54 0.56 0.58 0.59 0.60 0.61 0.62
      21 2200 0.53 0.54 0.55 0.57 0.59 0.60 0.61 0.63 0.64 0.66
      22 2200 0.58 0.59 0.61 0.62 0.64 0.65 0.67 0.68
      20 2300 0.52 0.53 0.54 0.56 0.58 0.59 0.60 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.65
      21 2300 0.56 0.58 0.59 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.64 0.66 0.67
      22 2300 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.65 0.67 0.68 0.69 0.71
      23 2300 0.66 0.67 0.69 0.70 0.71 0.73 0.74
      18 2400 0.47 0.48 0.49 0.50 0.52 0.53 0.54 0.55 0.57 0.58 0.59 0.60 0.61
      20 2400 0.56 0.58 0.59 0.60 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.64 0.65 0.66
      21 2400 0.60 0.61 0.62 0.64 0.65 0.66 0.68 0.69 0.71
      22 2400 0.64 0.66 0.67 0.69 0.71 0.72 0.73 0.74
      23 2400 0.69 0.70 0.71 0.73 0.74 0.76 0.77
      24 2400 0.74 0.75 0.76 0.78 0.79 0.80
      23 2500 0.72 0.73 0.74 0.75 0.76 0.77 0.79
      24 2500 0.76 0.78 0.79 0.80 0.81 0.83
      25 2500 0.81 0.83 0.84 0.86 0.86
      18 2600 0.52 0.53 0.54 0.55 0.57 0.58 0.59 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.64 0.65
      24 2600 0.79 0.80 0.81 0.83 0.84
      25 2600 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.91
      26 2600 0.89 0.90 0.92
      20 2700 0.63 0.64 0.65 0.66 0.68 0.69 0.71 0.72 0.73 0.74
      21 2700 0.68 0.69 0.70 0.71 0.73 0.73 0.74 0.76 0.77
      22 2700 0.72 0.73 0.74 0.76 0.78 0.79 0.80 0.81
      23 2700 0.77 0.78 0.79 0.81 0.83 0.84 0.84
      24 2700 0.81 0.83 0.84 0.86 0.88
      25 2700 0.86 0.88 0.89 0.91
      26 2700 0.91 0.93 0.95
      27 2700 0.96 0.98
      12-27-04
      
      High Altitude flights
      Notes: No nosewheel pant or nose gear fairing.
      
      8500 msl 8340 DA 2 deg. C OAT
      2400 rpm @ 22.1 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      EGTs 1364 1285 1321 1291 spread = 79
      CHTs 347 358 352 338 spread = 20
      156 knots TAS
      
      10500 msl 10420 DA -1 deg. C OAT
      2400 rpm @ 20.4 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      EGTs 1336 1265 1291 1262 spread = 74
      CHTs 337 333 336 325 spread = 12
      154 knots TAS
      climb rate at 10500 ~ 1200 fpm
      
      12500 msl 12370 DA -5 deg. C OAT
      2400 rpm @ 19.0 MAP (Wide Open Throttle)
      EGTs 1310 1229 1247 1228 spread = 82
      CHTs 343 330 339 325 spread = 18
      151 knots TAS
      climb rate at 12500 ~ 1000 fpm
      
      
      12/31/04
      Misc. power settings
      
      Notes: No nosewheel pant or nose gear fairing.
      Density Alt Power Setting True Airspeed % power
      4500 23/2300 144 72
      2500 23/2300 143 70
      2500 22/2200 135 62
      2500 20/2000 125 47
      8000 22/2600 162 80
      8300 22/2400 156 75
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 27, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Rpm on 0320
      
      
      Yes, My wheel pants and faring's are on
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Feb 28, 2005
Subject: 
Paint
      
      
      What's the best paint procedure for priming and painting the wings and  
      fuselage....Neo
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 28, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: Paint
      
      
      Are you talking about internally for corrosion control
      or exterior finish?
      --- Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
      
      > 
      > What's the best paint procedure for priming and
      > painting the wings and  
      > fuselage....Neo
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com>
Subject: 
Aft deck F-714
Date: 
Feb 28, 2005
      
      
      I am almost ready to rivet this down.  I've looked at the plans closely and read
      the very terse directions.  Apart from the two .125" spacers I can't see anything
      else I should do.
      Since I will really mad at myself if I should have done anything else inside this
      section I thought I would double check with the collective wisdom of my fellow
      builders.
      Can anyone tell me if there's a gotcha.
      Rob
      Rob W M Shipley
      N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
      La Mesa, CA. (next to San Diego)
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
RE: Aft deck F-714
Date: 
Mar 01, 2005
      
      
      Rob,
      
      Just make sure you level the fuselage before riveting as once this deck is
      riveted on, it locks the fuselage.  I put a level on the firewall angle, the
      center section and the deck itself to make sure there wasn't any twist in
      the fuse, then riveted it on.  
      
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com>
Subject: 
Re: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 03/01/05
Date: 
Mar 02, 2005
      
      
      Good advice.  I've had levels sitting on the longerons during the whole
      drilling and clecoing process.  If it isn't straight when I finish riveting
      it'll be enemy action.
      Rob
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "RV9-List Digest Server" <rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
      Subject: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 03/01/05
      
      
      > *
      >
      >  ==================================================
      >    Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
      >  ==================================================
      >
      > Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found in either of the
      > two Web Links listed below.  The .html file includes the Digest formatted
      > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
      > and Message Navigation.  The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
      > of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
      > such as Notepad or with a web browser.
      >
      > HTML Version:
      >
      >
      http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-03-01.html
      >
      > Text Version:
      >
      >
      http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-03-01.txt
      >
      >
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      >  ================================================
      >
      >
      >                            RV9-List Digest Archive
      >                                       ---
      >                      Total Messages Posted Tue 03/01/05: 1
      >
      >
      > Today's Message Index:
      > ----------------------
      >
      >      1. 07:02 AM - Re: Aft deck F-714  (Matthew Brandes)
      >
      >
      > ________________________________  Message 1
      _____________________________________
      >
      >
      > From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
      > Subject: RV9-List: RE: Aft deck F-714
      >
      >
      > Rob,
      >
      > Just make sure you level the fuselage before riveting as once this deck is
      > riveted on, it locks the fuselage.  I put a level on the firewall angle,
      the
      > center section and the deck itself to make sure there wasn't any twist in
      > the fuse, then riveted it on.
      >
      >
      > Matthew Brandes,
      > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
      > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
      >
      >
      > -- 
      > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Article (Alternative
      Engines)
Date: 
Mar 03, 2005
      
      
      Hello everyone,
      
      I've subscribed (quietly) to this list for a little more than a year, and
      would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
      installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm writing a
      builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an installation
      that's flown for a minimum of 150 hours, and is currently flying.
      
      For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay you
      $100 for the write-up. We would also need at least 2-3 good photos,
      including a close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft.
      Additional photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you
      have digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
      least 300 dpi.
      
      I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like to participate, but
      we can handle that off-line.
      
      Please feel free to contact me off-line at:
      cory @ lightspeededit.com  (remove the spaces - my anti-spam protection)
      or reply offline to my list email address.
      
      I have a rather short deadline, so if you're able to contact me as soon as
      you're able, I would greatly appreciate it!
      
      Thank you so much!
      
      best,
      Cory Emberson
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale
Date: 
Mar 03, 2005
      
      
      I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles
      for sale.  Please check them out at: 
      
      http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ 
      
      Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson  RV-9A fuselage
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 03, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Installing Propeller
      
      
      Hi Guys,
      Just a heads up to those who have not bolted on the
      prop yet. I'm talking fixed pitch, aluminum Sensinich.
       The first thing the bolt goes through is the aluminum
      backplate of the spinner.  
      I am doing my first anual and the first thing on my
      list was to remove the prop, inspect it, the bolts,
      hub and spinner assembly.  I took off the safety wire,
      loosened the bolts, and then backed them out with a
      drill driver.  Too fast. The bolt holes in the spinner
      back plate was a tight fit.  I looked at the bolts
      after they were out 3 of them were scored and galled
      so basdly they were not servicable. The other 3 were
      marginal. 
      New bolts from Sensinich are on order, at $50 each. 
      OUCH!  I reemed the holes to a looser fit. A silly
      mistake cost me several dollars that I would have
      rather spent elsewhere.
      
      Dennis Thomas
      RV-9   165 hours
      
             
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 04, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
Installing Propeller
      
      
      Hi Dennis:
      
      Could you upload some photos from these bolts?
      
      Very expensive ones, isnt it? 
      
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      RV-9A QB
      #90997
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      canopy
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Stephen D. Streiker" <steve(at)streiker.net>
Subject: 
RE: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/03/05
Date: 
Mar 04, 2005
      
      
      I just moved to Los Angeles and am looking for an area RV9 builder.  I plan
      on building one and would like to assist in construction of one.
      
      If you know of any Southern California builders, please let me know.
      
      Steve Streiker
      steve(at)streiker.net
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 04, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: Installing Propeller
      
      
      I never thought to photograph them.  All the damage
      was done from just below the bolthead to a distance
      below equal to the depth of the threads. Once it
      backed out that far the assembly was free and came
      off.  I won't be back to the hangar until next week.
      
      DT
      --- jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR wrote:
      
      > 
      > Hi Dennis:
      > 
      > Could you upload some photos from these bolts?
      > 
      > Very expensive ones, isnt it? 
      > 
      > JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      > RV-9A QB
      > #90997
      > http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      > canopy
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 04, 2005
From: 
Dennis Thomas <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: Installing Propeller
      
      
      I never thought to photograph them.  All the damage
      was done from just below the bolthead to a distance
      below equal to the depth of the threads. Once it
      backed out that far the assembly was free and came
      off.  I won't be back to the hangar until next week.
      
      DT
      --- jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR wrote:
      
      > 
      > Hi Dennis:
      > 
      > Could you upload some photos from these bolts?
      > 
      > Very expensive ones, isnt it? 
      > 
      > JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      > RV-9A QB
      > #90997
      > http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      > canopy
      > 
      > 
      >
      > Contributions
      > any other
      > Forums.
      >
      > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
      > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV9-List.htm
      > http://www.matronics.com/archives
      > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
      > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 05, 2005
From: 
"Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu>
Subject: 
Prop Governor Oil Line
      
      
      --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame 
      
      With reference to an 0-320 with a rear mounted governor and a constant
      speed prop: Is there any reason the prop governor oil line should not
      run over the top of the engine?
      
      I have used this line successfully in an O320 D2J. I believe it is a little 
      shorter than going underneath.
      
      Don Piermattei
      RV-9A N 192 DP
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 05, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
LA area builders
      
      
      Steve, sign up for the Yahoo group SoCAL-RVlist 
      <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist?yguid=38055351>, as they 
      have nearly 400 members, most of whom are in Southern California.
      http://groups.yahoo.com/
      
      >
      >From: "Stephen D. Streiker" <steve(at)streiker.net>
      >Subject: RV9-List: RE: RV9-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/03/05
      >
      >
      >I just moved to Los Angeles and am looking for an area RV9 builder.  I plan
      >on building one and would like to assist in construction of one.
      >
      >If you know of any Southern California builders, please let me know.
      >
      >Steve Streiker
      >steve(at)streiker.net
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 08, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Pitot Static Testing with Dynon 
      
      
      A few months ago Steve Sampson asked how he could verify the integrity 
      of his pitot system with the Dynon AOA probe installed. Steve probably 
      figured out how to do this already, but here my procedure. Using 
      cellophane tape, tape over the two drain holes in the bottom of the 
      probe, tape over the AOA orifice, and  run tape around the junction 
      between the probe body and the forward cap of the probe. (The rest of my 
      probe is potted with RTV and did not leak.) Then with somebody looking 
      at the ASI, blow into the pitot tip and then plug up the orifice with 
      your tongue. Don't blow too hard as you may come off scale. If there are 
      no leaks, the ASI will holds its value.
      
      Similar procedure for the static system. Tape over one of the static 
      ports. Put you mouth over the other port and suck, then stopper the hole 
      with your tongue. There may be an initial decrease as the VSI leaks its 
      air internally, then the altimeter should hold steady.
      
      Leland
      Almost ready for the FAA inspection
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
RV9 Empennage kit
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
From: 
"EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
      
      
      I'm about ready to order the tail kit and noticed the electric elevator
      trim option.
      
      Does anyone have any pros or cons to share about this option?
      Is there anything wrong with the manual trim, etc.
      
      Dave Allen
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com>
Subject: 
Re: RV9 Empennage kit
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
      
      
      Dave
      
      I think one of the cons of the manual is having to run control wires forward 
      rather than just electric cables
      
      Best Regards
      
      Peter
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: RV9 Empennage kit
      
      
      > 
      >
      > I'm about ready to order the tail kit and noticed the electric elevator
      > trim option.
      >
      > Does anyone have any pros or cons to share about this option?
      > Is there anything wrong with the manual trim, etc.
      >
      > Dave Allen
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
re: RV9 Empennage kit
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
      
      
      Dave,
      
      This is only the first off many decisions you will have to make in the
      building process.. each has its pros and cons and most just come down to
      builder preference.  I chose the manual trim.  The manual trim uses a thick
      cable that runs from the fuel selector area to the trim tab.  The trim is a
      large black knob that you twist to adjust.   The manual trim cable weighs
      more than the electric trim option and takes up some room by the fuel
      selector but a good option.  (It also takes up one of the wire run holes, so
      if you select this option, make an additional wire run hole in the center
      section when you get to the fuse.)
      
      The electric trim uses a servo mounted in the elevator.  Lightweight, can be
      controlled from your stick grips if you get a fancy one.  I hear they are
      overly sensitive and can be hard to get right but you can buy a little box
      to control the how fast it moves.  Also, I believe the newer autopilots from
      TruTrak and Trio can automatically adjust your trim if you use the electric
      trim option... so that might sway you if you are going to use an autopilot
      with that option.
      
      In the end, do you want to use a switch/rocker to control the trim or just
      twist a knob?
      
      Good luck and have fun! 
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 1329 President
      EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
manual trim knob
      
      
      Hi there:
      The manual instructs to remove the plstic cover on top of manual trim knob in order
      to 
      unlock the disangage mecanism from vernier.
      Ive tried to do it using a small screw driver and give up.
      You people have another ideia?
      Thanks in advance.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      RV-9A QB
      #90997
      Fuse
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
From: 
rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: 
Re: re: RV9 Empennage kit
      
      
      A couple of comments:
      
      Van's advises not to drill any more holes in the spar carry-through for 
      wiring, although they have said that the existing ones could be enlarged. 
      
      The practical result is that manual trim reduces the ability to route 
      wiring quite substantially.
      
      The other negative of manual trim is that the trim knob and it's 
      mounting will dig into your body when you are upside down working 
      underneath your panel.  I made a removable tab on the fuel selector box 
      so that if I have to work under the panel, I just remove it and lay the 
      assembly on the floor.
      
      I still prefer manual trim, but like everything else, you have to weigh 
      the trade-offs.
      
      On an amusing note, the trim cable has a note on it 'not for aircraft 
      use'.  Go figure.
      
      Vern Little, RV-9A
      
      Matthew Brandes wrote:
      
      >
      >Dave,
      >
      >This is only the first off many decisions you will have to make in the
      >building process.. each has its pros and cons and most just come down to
      >builder preference.  I chose the manual trim.  The manual trim uses a thick
      >cable that runs from the fuel selector area to the trim tab.  The trim is a
      >large black knob that you twist to adjust.   The manual trim cable weighs
      >more than the electric trim option and takes up some room by the fuel
      >selector but a good option.  (It also takes up one of the wire run holes, so
      >if you select this option, make an additional wire run hole in the center
      >section when you get to the fuse.)
      >
      >The electric trim uses a servo mounted in the elevator.  Lightweight, can be
      >controlled from your stick grips if you get a fancy one.  I hear they are
      >overly sensitive and can be hard to get right but you can buy a little box
      >to control the how fast it moves.  Also, I believe the newer autopilots from
      >TruTrak and Trio can automatically adjust your trim if you use the electric
      >trim option... so that might sway you if you are going to use an autopilot
      >with that option.
      >
      >In the end, do you want to use a switch/rocker to control the trim or just
      >twist a knob?
      >
      >Good luck and have fun! 
      >
      >Matthew Brandes,
      >Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      >EAA Chapter 1329 President
      >EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      >www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
From: 
Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: re: RV9 Empennage kit
      
      
      I think the bottom line is if you plan on a 2 axis auto pilot you will need the
      electric trim. If not, manual trim is good.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: 
Re: manual trim knob
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
      
      
      I think that you have to take the assembly pretty well apart to get the 
      center button and release rod out.  After doing this, I cut a piece of 1/16 
      clear plastic and used my computer to print the word "TRIM'  and smaller 
      font  "UP" & "DOWN" with arrows on a piece of paper and inserted this in the 
      hole where the button was...Dick Jones-90062
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
      Subject: RV9-List: manual trim knob
      
      
      >
      > Hi there:
      > The manual instructs to remove the plstic cover on top of manual trim knob 
      > in order to
      > unlock the disangage mecanism from vernier.
      > Ive tried to do it using a small screw driver and give up.
      > You people have another ideia?
      > Thanks in advance.
      > JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      > RV-9A QB
      > #90997
      > Fuse
      > http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Pitot Static Testing with Dynon 
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
      
      
      Leland - how long did you hold the pressure for? (It sounds like a great
      cartoon with you and your tounge stuck in the RV!)
      
      In one sense I never did manage to test it. I have tested it to the pitot by
      disconecting it and subsequently a high speed taxi in which it accidently
      flew a few yards.
      
      Steve.
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
      Subject: RV9-List: Pitot Static Testing with Dynon
      
      
      A few months ago Steve Sampson asked how he could verify the integrity
      of his pitot system with the Dynon AOA probe installed. Steve probably
      figured out how to do this already, but here my procedure. Using
      cellophane tape, tape over the two drain holes in the bottom of the
      probe, tape over the AOA orifice, and  run tape around the junction
      between the probe body and the forward cap of the probe. (The rest of my
      probe is potted with RTV and did not leak.) Then with somebody looking
      at the ASI, blow into the pitot tip and then plug up the orifice with
      your tongue. Don't blow too hard as you may come off scale. If there are
      no leaks, the ASI will holds its value.
      
      Similar procedure for the static system. Tape over one of the static
      ports. Put you mouth over the other port and suck, then stopper the hole
      with your tongue. There may be an initial decrease as the VSI leaks its
      air internally, then the altimeter should hold steady.
      
      Leland
      Almost ready for the FAA inspection
      
      
      --
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
re: manual trim knob
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
      
      
      JC, what instructions are you reading that says this?  Can't say that I
      remember see'in this anywhere... is there something we are supposed to
      remove from the trim knob???
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 1329 President
      EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 09, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
manual trim knob
      
      
      Hi Matthew:
      Just now Im in Aracaju, main city from Sergipe state, 250NM from my kit and manual.
      
      Tomorrow Ill be building again. Im a petroleum eng. and work on offshore rigs.
      the manual in chapter 8, fuse, ask usto remove the unlock mecanism from vernier
      system 
      in order to operate the trim safely. I believe that is possible to push the knob
      in a 
      very turbulence situation.
      There is a pin connecting the push/pull unlock button on top of vernier that must
      be 
      removed. To access this pin and rod we need to remove the rubber cap on top of
      vernier.
      Its a problem only for elevator manual trim instalation.
      Ill send you more details about it.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      RV-9a QB
      #90997
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: Pitot Static Testing with Dynon
      
      
      Steve, I only held the pressure until convinced that the ASI, VSI and 
      ALT readings were stable. I think the official test procedure allows a 
      10% leak after one minute. Sticking your tongue in those ports is not 
      comfortable. My procedure sounds ridiculous but I tried covering the 
      odd-shaped Dynon probe-tip with various plastic tubings and found that 
      they all leaked or slipped off. Removing lines from my installed pitot 
      probe for testing is not easy.
      
      On Monday, the official pitot-static testing for the "FAA" documentation 
      will be conducted that will also include verification of the altitude 
      encoder and transponder. That testing will cost about $200. I just 
      wanted to be sure the system was OK before having that testing done.
      
      Earlier, I had changed the battery in the Dynon and caused a leak in the 
      pitot system behind the panel.
      
      Congratulations on your brief hops.
      Leland
      
      >From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
      >Subject: RE: RV9-List: Pitot Static Testing with Dynon 
      >
      >
      >Leland - how long did you hold the pressure for? (It sounds like a great
      >cartoon with you and your tounge stuck in the RV!)
      >
      >In one sense I never did manage to test it. I have tested it to the pitot by
      >disconecting it and subsequently a high speed taxi in which it accidently
      >flew a few yards.
      >
      >Steve.
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re:RV9 Empennage kit
      
      
      Dave, the stiffness of the manual trim cable somewhat inhibits free 
      motion of the elevator. Even so, I installed the manual cable because 
      one of the Technical guys at Van's told me that the factory demonstrator 
      electric-trim tends to be touchy at cruise, even with the two-speed 
      circuit in place.
      Leland
      
      >
      >Subject: RV9-List: RV9 Empennage kit
      >From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
      >
      >
      >I'm about ready to order the tail kit and noticed the electric elevator
      >trim option.
      >
      >Does anyone have any pros or cons to share about this option?
      >Is there anything wrong with the manual trim, etc.
      >
      >Dave Allen
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org>
Subject: 
Re:RV9 Empennage kit
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
      
      
       I've flown a piper with electric trim and didn't like it at all as it was so
       sensitive. I can think of many times in the Cessna when I've re-trimmed the
       airplane with less than an 1/8th of a turn and would believe that in an
      airplane
       as responsive as the RV, hand trimming might give me a better feel. I ended up
       deciding on manual trim for that reason.
      
       -- John
       www.rivetbangers.com - Building more than just RV's
      
       www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Builder's log
      
      
       >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "Leland" <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
      > To: 
      > Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:53 AM
      > Subject: RV9-List: Re:RV9 Empennage kit
      >
      >
      > >
      > > Dave, the stiffness of the manual trim cable somewhat inhibits free
      > > motion of the elevator. Even so, I installed the manual cable because
      > > one of the Technical guys at Van's told me that the factory demonstrator
      > > electric-trim tends to be touchy at cruise, even with the two-speed
      > > circuit in place.
      > > Leland
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: 
Re:RV9 Empennage kit
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
      
      
      I really like the electric trim on my 9A. I installed the module that drops 
      the voltage an adjustable amount and wired it to a micro switch on the 
      flaps: with flaps up you get very slow trim change, otherwise electric  trim 
      is full  speed. Works great.
      Albert Gardner
      RV-9A N872RV
      Yuma, AZ
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org>
      > I've flown a piper with electric trim and didn't like it at all as it was 
      > so
      > sensitive. I can think of many times in the Cessna when I've re-trimmed 
      > the
      > airplane with less than an 1/8th of a turn and would believe that in an
      > airplane
      > as responsive as the RV, hand trimming might give me a better feel. I 
      > ended up
      > deciding on manual trim for that reason.
      > -- John
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
From: 
Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at full 
      up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the trim 
      adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other words, if 
      you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until you 
      can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't in my 
      '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      
      If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of manual 
      vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim runaway on 
      you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      
      Richard Scott
      9A wings
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
      
      
      Richard:  That's exctly why I went with manual trim.  I was really affraid 
      of a runaway trim problem.  I've never tried full up or down trim in flight 
      and I think that I would not want to try it.  After landing with about three 
      turns of up trim cranked in, the trim tab is down about 1/2 inch.  On a go 
      around with this trim, I think that the stick force is probably 15 lbs or so 
      to keep the plane climbing at a reasonable rate.  With side-by-side seating 
      and fuel tanks near the pitch balance point, you just don't have to do much 
      with the trim once you find a speed that you want.  I am guessing that I 
      don't have to crank in more than three turns of down trim from 90 kts to 150 
      kts, but I've not actually counted.  I don't know how much the electric trim 
      will move the tab from neutral to full up or full down, but if it's in the 
      order of an inch either way, you could have your hands full with a failure.
      
      Dick Jones  90062
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      >
      > For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at 
      > full
      > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the trim
      > adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other words, 
      > if
      > you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until you
      > can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't in my
      > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      >
      > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of manual
      > vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim runaway on
      > you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      >
      > Richard Scott
      > 9A wings
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carroll Neblett" <cneblett(at)erols.com>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 10, 2005
      
      
          I've bought and built the electric elevator trim, but have never been 
      fully comfortable with elevator control being subject to an electrical 
      problem (and the trim servo doesn't appear to be of very impressive 
      quality).
          It may be a stupid idea as I've never seen or heard of it on any 
      aircraft, but I've often wondered what would be wrong with having electric 
      trim on one side and manual trim on the other.  This would give the 
      convenience advantage of electric trim (if there is any) and the safety 
      advantage of manual trim.  In the event of a runaway electric trim, it could 
      be offset with manual trim, but I have no idea what the drag and roll 
      effects would be of having extreme and opposite trims on the left and right 
      elevators.
          If having both trim types would be aerodynamically practical, it 
      shouldn't add much cost, especially if Van's would allow the empennage kit 
      to be ordered with two "left" elevators.
      
      Carroll Neblett
      (waiting on wings)
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      >
      > For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at 
      > full
      > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the trim
      > adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other words, 
      > if
      > you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until you
      > can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't in my
      > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      >
      > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of manual
      > vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim runaway on
      > you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      >
      > Richard Scott
      > 9A wings
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 11, 2005
From: 
"dedgemon(at)knology.net" <dedgemon(at)knology.net>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      Guys,
      I've been watching the trim thread for a while and have a couple of cents 
      worth to add.
      
      I've been flying my RV-9A since October and currently have about 56 hours.
      I'm flying a O-320-D1A 160HP with a Hartzell and MANUAL trim.
      
      Let me say that the manual trim works beautifully. If you really want 
      electric thats fine but I'm very happy with the manual, its very precise.
      
      While building the airplane I wondered why Van put such a huge trim tab on 
      the airplane, after all the 6's tab is only about half the size. Well I 
      can tell you that in cruise we could use a much smaller tab. Very small 
      trim tab movements will move the nose quite a bit. It is very typical for 
      me to just barely touch the trim knob in order to make "very" fine 
      adjustments. The nice thing about the manual is that its very simple to to 
      that, just move the knob however fast/slow you need to.
      
      During flight at slow speeds such as during landing the big trim tab 
      requirment is pretty obvious. As the aiplane is slowed you start making 
      some pretty large nose up trim inputs, and as the flaps go out you need 
      quite a bit of up trim as the speed comes down to 65-70 knots. In fact 
      when flying the airplane solo (fwd CG) I normally will have all of my nose 
      up trim rolled in by the time I establish on final at 65 knots or so. 
      Fortunately at these speeds it doesn't really matter if you run out of 
      trim because the stick is really light. 
      
      I probably need to rerig the trim to bias the tab travel a bit toward the 
      nose up position. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
      
      Don't know if this helps folks to decide but in summary I really like the 
      way the manual trim works in flight, its simple, its very unlikely to 
      break, and if you disable the button you shouldn't have to worry about a 
      trim runaway or step input.
      
      By the way, I disabled the button by drilling a hole through the shaft 
      under the button and inserting a cotter pit. That way I didn't have to 
      take the button assembly apart.
      
      
      --
      
      David Edgemon
      RV-9A N42DE
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 11, 2005
      
      
      Too bad the electric trim doesn't work off the manual cable like some
      production airplanes.  That way you could still adjust the trim manually
      if the actuation motor went Tango Uniform.
      
      Back to the basement for me.  Busy drilling and pounding.
      Bill
      www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carroll
      Neblett
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
          I've bought and built the electric elevator trim, but have never
      been 
      fully comfortable with elevator control being subject to an electrical 
      problem (and the trim servo doesn't appear to be of very impressive 
      quality).
          It may be a stupid idea as I've never seen or heard of it on any 
      aircraft, but I've often wondered what would be wrong with having
      electric 
      trim on one side and manual trim on the other.  This would give the 
      convenience advantage of electric trim (if there is any) and the safety 
      advantage of manual trim.  In the event of a runaway electric trim, it
      could 
      be offset with manual trim, but I have no idea what the drag and roll 
      effects would be of having extreme and opposite trims on the left and
      right 
      elevators.
          If having both trim types would be aerodynamically practical, it 
      shouldn't add much cost, especially if Van's would allow the empennage
      kit 
      to be ordered with two "left" elevators.
      
      Carroll Neblett
      (waiting on wings)
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      > --> 
      >
      > For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at
      > full
      > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the
      trim
      > adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other
      words, 
      > if
      > you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until
      you
      > can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't
      in my
      > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      >
      > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of 
      > manual vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim 
      > runaway on you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      >
      > Richard Scott
      > 9A wings
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 11, 2005
      
      
      I installed the electric trim because I didn't want the big knob in the 
      cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.  .... so for a few extra 
      bucks it would be win win.
      
      Reality struck when I started flying.  In my opinion, the electric is not 
      nearly as good as the manual.
      
      The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly the correct hands off 
      pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction it goes too far, and then 
      bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that you can buy a speed 
      control to slow it down, but on the other hand it is already too slow.  When 
      you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes an eternity to get into 
      position.  I usually end up coming in hot and don't have time to screw with 
      it and I land without trimming the plane.   It just plain doesn't have the 
      operational benefits of manual trim.
      
      
      Solutions:
      
      1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an electric trim with a dash 
      mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance (maybe like the volume control 
      on my GMC pickup that has detents every few degrees) that needs to be turned 
      about ten turns for full deflection.
      
      or..
      
      2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in speed the longer you hold it 
      down.  Then you could still control it with the coolie switch on the grip, 
      but you could have fine control and speed both.
      
      -Ross
      
      Ross Schlotthauer
      RV-7 flying but not finished
      www.experimentalair.com
      
      
      >From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
      >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      >To: 
      >Subject: RE: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:26:49 -0500
      >
      >
      >Too bad the electric trim doesn't work off the manual cable like some
      >production airplanes.  That way you could still adjust the trim manually
      >if the actuation motor went Tango Uniform.
      >
      >Back to the basement for me.  Busy drilling and pounding.
      >Bill
      >www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      >
      >-----Original Message-----
      >From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      >[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carroll
      >Neblett
      >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      >
      >
      >     I've bought and built the electric elevator trim, but have never
      >been
      >fully comfortable with elevator control being subject to an electrical
      >problem (and the trim servo doesn't appear to be of very impressive
      >quality).
      >     It may be a stupid idea as I've never seen or heard of it on any
      >aircraft, but I've often wondered what would be wrong with having
      >electric
      >trim on one side and manual trim on the other.  This would give the
      >convenience advantage of electric trim (if there is any) and the safety
      >advantage of manual trim.  In the event of a runaway electric trim, it
      >could
      >be offset with manual trim, but I have no idea what the drag and roll
      >effects would be of having extreme and opposite trims on the left and
      >right
      >elevators.
      >     If having both trim types would be aerodynamically practical, it
      >shouldn't add much cost, especially if Van's would allow the empennage
      >kit
      >to be ordered with two "left" elevators.
      >
      >Carroll Neblett
      >(waiting on wings)
      >----- Original Message -----
      >From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      >To: 
      >Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      >
      >
      > > --> 
      > >
      > > For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at
      > > full
      > > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the
      >trim
      > > adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other
      >words,
      > > if
      > > you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until
      >you
      > > can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't
      >in my
      > > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      > >
      > > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of
      > > manual vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim
      > > runaway on you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      > >
      > > Richard Scott
      > > 9A wings
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
From: 
Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: 
Mar 11, 2005
      
      
      Van's own RV9 has the manual trim (and electric flaps) ... 
      hmmm, wonder why ...
      
      g
      
      
      > 
      > 
      > I installed the electric trim because I didn't want the big knob in the 
      > cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.  .... so for 
      > a few extra 
      > bucks it would be win win.
      > 
      > Reality struck when I started flying.  In my opinion, the 
      > electric is not 
      > nearly as good as the manual.
      > 
      > The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly the correct 
      > hands off 
      > pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction it goes too 
      > far, and then 
      > bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that you can buy a speed 
      > control to slow it down, but on the other hand it is already 
      > too slow.  When 
      > you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes an eternity 
      > to get into 
      > position.  I usually end up coming in hot and don't have time 
      > to screw with 
      > it and I land without trimming the plane.   It just plain 
      > doesn't have the 
      > operational benefits of manual trim.
      > 
      > 
      > Solutions:
      > 
      > 1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an electric trim with a dash 
      > mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance (maybe like the 
      > volume control 
      > on my GMC pickup that has detents every few degrees) that needs 
      > to be turned 
      > about ten turns for full deflection.
      > 
      > or..
      > 
      > 2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in speed the longer 
      > you hold it 
      > down.  Then you could still control it with the coolie switch 
      > on the grip, 
      > but you could have fine control and speed both.
      > 
      > -Ross
      > 
      > Ross Schlotthauer
      > RV-7 flying but not finished
      > www.experimentalair.com
      > 
      > 
      > >From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
      > >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > >To: 
      > >Subject: RE: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:26:49 -0500
      > >
      > >
      > >Too bad the electric trim doesn't work off the manual cable like some
      > >production airplanes.  That way you could still adjust the trim manually
      > >if the actuation motor went Tango Uniform.
      > >
      > >Back to the basement for me.  Busy drilling and pounding.
      > >Bill
      > >www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      > >
      > >-----Original Message-----
      > >From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > >[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carroll
      > >Neblett
      > >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >     I've bought and built the electric elevator trim, but have never
      > >been
      > >fully comfortable with elevator control being subject to an electrical
      > >problem (and the trim servo doesn't appear to be of very impressive
      > >quality).
      > >     It may be a stupid idea as I've never seen or heard of it on any
      > >aircraft, but I've often wondered what would be wrong with having
      > >electric
      > >trim on one side and manual trim on the other.  This would give the
      > >convenience advantage of electric trim (if there is any) and the safety
      > >advantage of manual trim.  In the event of a runaway electric trim, it
      > >could
      > >be offset with manual trim, but I have no idea what the drag and roll
      > >effects would be of having extreme and opposite trims on the left and
      > >right
      > >elevators.
      > >     If having both trim types would be aerodynamically practical, it
      > >shouldn't add much cost, especially if Van's would allow the empennage
      > >kit
      > >to be ordered with two "left" elevators.
      > >
      > >Carroll Neblett
      > >(waiting on wings)
      > >----- Original Message -----
      > >From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      > >To: 
      > >Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > >
      > >
      > > > --> 
      > > >
      > > > For those with flying 9's, I would like to know how the plane flies at
      > > > full
      > > > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?  Can you overcome the
      > >trim
      > > > adequately to climb with nose down trim and vice versa?  In other
      > >words,
      > > > if
      > > > you get a runaway trim situation, can you continue to fly safely until
      > >you
      > > > can land, even if that means flying half an hour or more?  You can't
      > >in my
      > > > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is manual.
      > > >
      > > > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then for me the question of
      > > > manual vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll never have a  manual trim
      > > > runaway on you (of course the cable could break, but so could wires).
      > > >
      > > > Richard Scott
      > > > 9A wings
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      -- 
      ========================================================== 
      Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
                          Home: 415 239 4846
                          Cell: 415 203 9177
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      Ross S wrote:
      
      >
      >I installed the electric trim because I didn't want the big knob in the 
      >cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.  .... so for a few extra 
      >bucks it would be win win.
      >
      >Reality struck when I started flying.  In my opinion, the electric is not 
      >nearly as good as the manual.
      >
      >The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly the correct hands off 
      >pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction it goes too far, and then 
      >bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that you can buy a speed 
      >control to slow it down, but on the other hand it is already too slow.  When 
      >you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes an eternity to get into 
      >position.  I usually end up coming in hot and don't have time to screw with 
      >it and I land without trimming the plane.   It just plain doesn't have the 
      >operational benefits of manual trim.
      >
      >
      >Solutions:
      >
      >1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an electric trim with a dash 
      >mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance (maybe like the volume control 
      >on my GMC pickup that has detents every few degrees) that needs to be turned 
      >about ten turns for full deflection.
      >
      >or..
      >
      >2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in speed the longer you hold it 
      >down.  Then you could still control it with the coolie switch on the grip, 
      >but you could have fine control and speed both.
      >
      >-Ross
      >
      >Ross Schlotthauer
      >RV-7 flying but not finished
      >www.experimentalair.com
      >
      
      A true servo will do exactly what you describe in 1) above. That's how 
      R/C model airplane servos work; they attempt to adjust the sense 
      potentiometer on the motor to match the control potentiometer. I had 
      roll trim in a Thorp T-18 built in the mid 70's that used an R/C servo & 
      a volume control on the instrument panel. BTW, you don't want detents on 
      the control; you will likely  have similar problems to the overcontrol 
      problem you have now with the pushbuttons.
      
      Anyone know whether the 'servo' Van sells is really a servo motor or is 
      it just a dc motor & geartrain?
      
      Charlie
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re:RE:  Pitot Static Testing with Dynon 
      
      
      Another lister suggested pitot-static testing of the Dynon probe by 
      putting a balloon over it. I tried doing this yesterday and the balloon 
      trick worked well. It is necessary to tape over the drain holes in the 
      back and for the balloon to encompass the entire probe tip. I used a 
      large balloon that was easy to inflate so as not to over pressure the ASI.
      Leland
      
      >  
      >
      >>From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
      >>Subject: RE: RV9-List: Pitot Static Testing with Dynon 
      >>
      >>
      >>Leland - how long did you hold the pressure for? (It sounds like a great
      >>cartoon with you and your tounge stuck in the RV!)
      >>
      >>In one sense I never did manage to test it. I have tested it to the pitot by
      >>disconecting it and subsequently a high speed taxi in which it accidently
      >>flew a few yards.
      >>
      >>Steve.
      >> 
      >>
      >>    
      >>
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carroll Neblett" <cneblett(at)erols.com>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
      
      
      Replying to Charlie's question about the elevator trim servo -
      The 8A trim "servo" that Van's uses is just a DC motor with a gear train. 
      It does include slider pot, but it's only a position sensor, not a feedback 
      pot.  When I received the servo kit with my empennage, I couldn't believe it 
      was for aircraft use (or that it was worth $200+).
      
      I've been a R/Cer for years too, and $50 R/C servos appear to be much better 
      designed and made, but they are also more complex; and anyone that's flown 
      R/C for many years has probably had a servo or two fail.  On the plus side 
      for the servo provided by Van's is that there's not much to fail - since 
      it's just a DPDT switch that applies reversible DC to a small motor.
      
      Carroll Neblett
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      >
      > Ross S wrote:
      >
      >>
      >>I installed the electric trim because I didn't want the big knob in the
      >>cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.  .... so for a few 
      >>extra
      >>bucks it would be win win.
      >>
      >>Reality struck when I started flying.  In my opinion, the electric is not
      >>nearly as good as the manual.
      >>
      >>The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly the correct hands off
      >>pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction it goes too far, and 
      >>then
      >>bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that you can buy a speed
      >>control to slow it down, but on the other hand it is already too slow. 
      >>When
      >>you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes an eternity to get into
      >>position.  I usually end up coming in hot and don't have time to screw 
      >>with
      >>it and I land without trimming the plane.   It just plain doesn't have the
      >>operational benefits of manual trim.
      >>
      >>
      >>Solutions:
      >>
      >>1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an electric trim with a dash
      >>mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance (maybe like the volume 
      >>control
      >>on my GMC pickup that has detents every few degrees) that needs to be 
      >>turned
      >>about ten turns for full deflection.
      >>
      >>or..
      >>
      >>2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in speed the longer you hold it
      >>down.  Then you could still control it with the coolie switch on the grip,
      >>but you could have fine control and speed both.
      >>
      >>-Ross
      >>
      >>Ross Schlotthauer
      >>RV-7 flying but not finished
      >>www.experimentalair.com
      >>
      >
      > A true servo will do exactly what you describe in 1) above. That's how
      > R/C model airplane servos work; they attempt to adjust the sense
      > potentiometer on the motor to match the control potentiometer. I had
      > roll trim in a Thorp T-18 built in the mid 70's that used an R/C servo &
      > a volume control on the instrument panel. BTW, you don't want detents on
      > the control; you will likely  have similar problems to the overcontrol
      > problem you have now with the pushbuttons.
      >
      > Anyone know whether the 'servo' Van sells is really a servo motor or is
      > it just a dc motor & geartrain?
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
From: 
"Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      It is just a motor with a gear train, although you could convert it to a 
      real servo with the "True Servo Conversion for M.A.C.-R.A.C 
      Sort-of-servos" (next to last on the page)
      http://www.periheliondesign.com/moreproducts.htm
      
      Dick Tasker
      
      
      Charlie England wrote:
      
      >
      >Ross S wrote:
      >
      >  
      >
      >>
      >>I installed the electric trim because I didn't want the big knob in the 
      >>cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.  .... so for a few extra 
      >>bucks it would be win win.
      >>
      >>Reality struck when I started flying.  In my opinion, the electric is not 
      >>nearly as good as the manual.
      >>
      >>The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly the correct hands off 
      >>pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction it goes too far, and then
      
      >>bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that you can buy a speed 
      >>control to slow it down, but on the other hand it is already too slow.  When
      
      >>you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes an eternity to get into 
      >>position.  I usually end up coming in hot and don't have time to screw with 
      >>it and I land without trimming the plane.   It just plain doesn't have the 
      >>operational benefits of manual trim.
      >>
      >>
      >>Solutions:
      >>
      >>1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an electric trim with a dash 
      >>mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance (maybe like the volume control
      
      >>on my GMC pickup that has detents every few degrees) that needs to be turned
      
      >>about ten turns for full deflection.
      >>
      >>or..
      >>
      >>2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in speed the longer you hold it 
      >>down.  Then you could still control it with the coolie switch on the grip, 
      >>but you could have fine control and speed both.
      >>
      >>-Ross
      >>
      >>Ross Schlotthauer
      >>RV-7 flying but not finished
      >>www.experimentalair.com
      >>
      >>    
      >>
      >
      >A true servo will do exactly what you describe in 1) above. That's how 
      >R/C model airplane servos work; they attempt to adjust the sense 
      >potentiometer on the motor to match the control potentiometer. I had 
      >roll trim in a Thorp T-18 built in the mid 70's that used an R/C servo & 
      >a volume control on the instrument panel. BTW, you don't want detents on 
      >the control; you will likely  have similar problems to the overcontrol 
      >problem you have now with the pushbuttons.
      >
      >Anyone know whether the 'servo' Van sells is really a servo motor or is 
      >it just a dc motor & geartrain?
      >
      >Charlie
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
      
      
      While on the subject of electric trim has anyone had the following problem?
      When I key the radio it upsets the trim indicator lights.
      
      Steve.
      RV9a #90360
      
      --
      Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
From: 
owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 12, 2005
From: 
<dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Trim-- electric vs. manual
      
      
      My 2 bits worth on the trim thing.  My RV9 has been
      flying a year now and has electric elevator trim. Yes
      it is sensative but I've grown used to it and am very
      comfortable with it.  I chose that route because,
      lighter weight, simpler to install and probably more
      reliable. A tech guy at Mac(when it was still Mac)
      suggested that rather than using the speed control
      deck they sell, to just build a larger control horn on
      the  trim tab itself. This will increase the radius of
      travel hereby slowing the control responce.
      I have flown in the factory RV9 about 4 hours with
      Mike Seager and the manual control really is very
      nice. 
      Dennis Thomas
      --- Gerry Filby  wrote:
      
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Van's own RV9 has the manual trim (and electric
      > flaps) ... 
      > hmmm, wonder why ...
      > 
      > g
      > 
      > 
      > > 
      > 
      > > 
      > > I installed the electric trim because I didn't
      > want the big knob in the 
      > > cockpit and figured the electric would be lighter.
      >  .... so for 
      > > a few extra 
      > > bucks it would be win win.
      > > 
      > > Reality struck when I started flying.  In my
      > opinion, the 
      > > electric is not 
      > > nearly as good as the manual.
      > > 
      > > The electric is not sensative enough to get exatly
      > the correct 
      > > hands off 
      > > pitch position.  If you just bump it one direction
      > it goes too 
      > > far, and then 
      > > bump it back and that is too far.  I realize that
      > you can buy a speed 
      > > control to slow it down, but on the other hand it
      > is already 
      > > too slow.  When 
      > > you want to trim for landing or takeoff, it takes
      > an eternity 
      > > to get into 
      > > position.  I usually end up coming in hot and
      > don't have time 
      > > to screw with 
      > > it and I land without trimming the plane.   It
      > just plain 
      > > doesn't have the 
      > > operational benefits of manual trim.
      > > 
      > > 
      > > Solutions:
      > > 
      > > 1.) One of you guys needs to come up with an
      > electric trim with a dash 
      > > mountet knob with a fair amount of resistance
      > (maybe like the 
      > > volume control 
      > > on my GMC pickup that has detents every few
      > degrees) that needs 
      > > to be turned 
      > > about ten turns for full deflection.
      > > 
      > > or..
      > > 
      > > 2.) Make a speed control that will ramp up in
      > speed the longer 
      > > you hold it 
      > > down.  Then you could still control it with the
      > coolie switch 
      > > on the grip, 
      > > but you could have fine control and speed both.
      > > 
      > > -Ross
      > > 
      > > Ross Schlotthauer
      > > RV-7 flying but not finished
      > > www.experimentalair.com
      > > 
      > > 
      > > >From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
      > > >Reply-To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > > >To: 
      > > >Subject: RE: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > > >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:26:49 -0500
      > > >
      > 
      > > >
      > > >Too bad the electric trim doesn't work off the
      > manual cable like some
      > > >production airplanes.  That way you could still
      > adjust the trim manually
      > > >if the actuation motor went Tango Uniform.
      > > >
      > > >Back to the basement for me.  Busy drilling and
      > pounding.
      > > >Bill
      > > >www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      > > >
      > > >-----Original Message-----
      > > >From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > > >[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
      > Behalf Of Carroll
      > > >Neblett
      > > >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > > >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > > >
      > > >
      > 
      > > >
      > > >     I've bought and built the electric elevator
      > trim, but have never
      > > >been
      > > >fully comfortable with elevator control being
      > subject to an electrical
      > > >problem (and the trim servo doesn't appear to be
      > of very impressive
      > > >quality).
      > > >     It may be a stupid idea as I've never seen
      > or heard of it on any
      > > >aircraft, but I've often wondered what would be
      > wrong with having
      > > >electric
      > > >trim on one side and manual trim on the other. 
      > This would give the
      > > >convenience advantage of electric trim (if there
      > is any) and the safety
      > > >advantage of manual trim.  In the event of a
      > runaway electric trim, it
      > > >could
      > > >be offset with manual trim, but I have no idea
      > what the drag and roll
      > > >effects would be of having extreme and opposite
      > trims on the left and
      > > >right
      > > >elevators.
      > > >     If having both trim types would be
      > aerodynamically practical, it
      > > >shouldn't add much cost, especially if Van's
      > would allow the empennage
      > > >kit
      > > >to be ordered with two "left" elevators.
      > > >
      > > >Carroll Neblett
      > > >(waiting on wings)
      > > >----- Original Message -----
      > > >From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
      > > >To: 
      > > >Subject: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > > --> 
      > > > >
      > > > > For those with flying 9's, I would like to
      > know how the plane flies at
      > > > > full
      > > > > up and full down trim.  Can you keep it level?
      >  Can you overcome the
      > > >trim
      > > > > adequately to climb with nose down trim and
      > vice versa?  In other
      > > >words,
      > > > > if
      > > > > you get a runaway trim situation, can you
      > continue to fly safely until
      > > >you
      > > > > can land, even if that means flying half an
      > hour or more?  You can't
      > > >in my
      > > > > '41 Interstate Cadet, but trim in that is
      > manual.
      > > > >
      > > > > If it is too hard to overcome the trim, then
      > for me the question of
      > > > > manual vs. electric trim is simple:  You'll
      > never have a  manual trim
      > > > > runaway on you (of course the cable could
      > break, but so could wires).
      > > > >
      > > > > Richard Scott
      > > > > 9A wings
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > 
      > -- 
      >
      ==========================================================
      > 
      > Gerry Filby                                 
      > gerf(at)gerf.com
      > 
      === message truncated ===
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: 
Re: Trim-- electric vs. manual
Date: 
Mar 14, 2005
      
      
      I've hear that several other strange instrument indications have been cured 
      by putting a diode across the ptt switch. Maybe this would help.
      Albert Gardner
      RV-9A N872RV
      Yuma, AZ
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
      Subject: RE: RV9-List: Trim-- electric vs. manual
      > 
      > While on the subject of electric trim has anyone had the following 
      > problem?
      > When I key the radio it upsets the trim indicator lights.
      > Steve. RV9a #90360
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bobdeva(at)aol.com
Date: 
Mar 16, 2005
Subject: 
POH
      
      
      Anyone know where I can download a sample of a POH for the -9A ?
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: 
Re: POH
Date: 
Mar 16, 2005
      
      
      While were on the subject does anyone have one for a 8A a POH? Mark Rose 
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <Bobdeva(at)aol.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: POH
      
      
      > 
      > Anyone know where I can download a sample of a POH for the -9A ?
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
RE: POH
Date: 
Mar 16, 2005
      
      
      I can't seem to remember where I read this...but it was within the last week or
      so that I remember reading that Van's was getting ready to release a basic skeleton
      POH for the 9/9A.  Hope it helps, but if you find one, please post it or
      a link as I would love to have one also.
      
      Will
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: POH
Date: 
Mar 16, 2005
      
      
      Try the following site:  http://www.vansairforce.net/poh.htm
      
      Jim Thorne
      7A-QB CHD
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
      Subject: Re: RV9-List: POH
      
      
      > 
      > While were on the subject does anyone have one for a 8A a POH? Mark Rose 
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: <Bobdeva(at)aol.com>
      > To: 
      > Subject: RV9-List: POH
      > 
      > 
      >> 
      >> Anyone know where I can download a sample of a POH for the -9A ?
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >>
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Aileron pushrod clearance
From: 
Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: 
Mar 18, 2005
      
      
      Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the 
      aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the 
      steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar 
      at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the 
      aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual 
      (Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the 
      pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the 
      rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of 
      the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed 
      flight control.
      
      Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every 
      kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that 
      all the holes are prepunched.
      
      Anyone else have these issues ?
      
      g
      
      (Fuselage sitting in its crate calling my name.)
      
      ========================================================== 
      Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
                          Home: 415 239 4846
                          Cell: 415 203 9177
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com>
Subject: 
Re: Aileron pushrod clearance
Date: 
Mar 18, 2005
      
      
      Gerry:  You must be right.  I had this problem on Kit #90062.  I opened the 
      hole in the rear spar up a little.  It's far enough out on the wing that 
      stress should be pretty low.  Dick Jones
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      
      
      >
      >
      > Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the
      > aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the
      > steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar
      > at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the
      > aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual
      > (Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the
      > pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the
      > rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of
      > the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed
      > flight control.
      >
      > Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every
      > kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that
      > all the holes are prepunched.
      >
      > Anyone else have these issues ?
      >
      > g
      >
      > (Fuselage sitting in its crate calling my name.)
      >
      > ==========================================================
      > Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
      >                    Home: 415 239 4846
      >                    Cell: 415 203 9177
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Aileron pushrod clearance
Date: 
Mar 18, 2005
      
      
      I had mine welded to avoid this problem. $20 at a local weld shop.
      
      Mike
      90709 fuse
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
      Subject: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      
      
      Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the 
      aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the 
      steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar 
      at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the 
      aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual 
      (Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the 
      pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the 
      rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of 
      the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed 
      flight control.
      
      Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every 
      kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that 
      all the holes are prepunched.
      
      Anyone else have these issues ?
      
      g
      
      (Fuselage sitting in its crate calling my name.)
      
      ========================================================== 
      Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
                          Home: 415 239 4846
                          Cell: 415 203 9177
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
FS RV Belt Buckles
Date: 
Mar 18, 2005
      
      
      I have upgraded my site with better pictures and customer comments for your viewing.
      Thanks, Glenn -9A fuselage
      
      http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
RE: Aileron pushrod clearance
Date: 
Mar 18, 2005
      
      
      Gerry,
      
      Everyone has these issues.  Some have worked around the rivet catching by
      having the rod-ends welded on instead of riveted on.  Enlarge the hole with
      a file until you remove enough material so that the push-rod doesn't
      interfere in any way.
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      EAA Chapter 1329 President
      EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: 
Aileron pushrod clearance
Date: 
Mar 20, 2005
      
      
      Ditto for me but only because I couldn't get the darn rivets to set
      correctly.
      
      Bill
      90737
      Just bent the fuselage longerons today.
      www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Hoover
      Subject: RE: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      
      
      I had mine welded to avoid this problem. $20 at a local weld shop.
      
      Mike
      90709 fuse
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
      Subject: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      
      
      Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the 
      aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the 
      steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar 
      at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the 
      aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual 
      (Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the 
      pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the 
      rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of 
      the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed 
      flight control.
      
      Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every 
      kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that 
      all the holes are prepunched.
      
      Anyone else have these issues ?
      
      g
      
      (Fuselage sitting in its crate calling my name.)
      
      ========================================================== 
      Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
                          Home: 415 239 4846
                          Cell: 415 203 9177
      
      
      direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Aileron pushrod clearance
From: 
Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: 
Mar 20, 2005
      
      
      :-))) I worked so hard on that problem (filling the void in the 
      rod end with alum rod and epxoy, etc) that I totally missed the 
      fact that rivets are NOT the way to go here anyway ...
      
      Oh well ... I'll deal with this later - the fuselage is 
      calling, calling, calling ...
      
      Thanks all for your comments.
      
      g
      
      > 
      > 
      > Ditto for me but only because I couldn't get the darn rivets to set
      > correctly.
      > 
      > Bill
      > 90737
      > Just bent the fuselage longerons today.
      > www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Hoover
      > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > I had mine welded to avoid this problem. $20 at a local weld shop.
      > 
      > Mike
      > 90709 fuse
      > 
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
      > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the 
      > aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the 
      > steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar 
      > at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the 
      > aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual 
      > (Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the 
      > pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the 
      > rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of 
      > the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed 
      > flight control.
      > 
      > Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every 
      > kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that 
      > all the holes are prepunched.
      > 
      > Anyone else have these issues ?
      > 
      > g
      > 
      > (Fuselage sitting in its crate calling my name.)
      > 
      > ========================================================== 
      > Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
      >                     Home: 415 239 4846
      >                     Cell: 415 203 9177
      > 
      > 
      > direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      -- 
      ========================================================== 
      Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com
                          Home: 415 239 4846
                          Cell: 415 203 9177
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 21, 2005
From: 
Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: RV9-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/18/05
      
      
      I reported this problem to Scott at Van's a few weeks ago. Scott did not 
      feel that it was a problem since you don't normally operate an RV's 
      ailerons against the stops, except perhaps in aerobatics. To avoid 
      contact with the push rod, I had to file the bottom part of the hole 
      through the rear spar until it almost contacted the rivets holding the 
      aileron bracket on. Bryan Wood recently reported that his test pilot 
      found that he could completely lock the ailerons in the "full" position 
      when the pushrod caught in the spar. I believe this problem will 
      eventually kill somebody.
      
      Another safety problem I encountered was that the torque value on the 
      nuts holding the lead weights on the elevators had decreased in value 
      from 25 inch-pounds down to 5. Apparently the lead slowly creeps under 
      pressure over time. I finally attached the Nyloc nuts using permanent 
      thread lock and glued the lead weights, nuts and bolts on with ProSeal. 
      I also sanded down the thickness of two of the weights so that there was 
      more clearance between the horizontal stabilizer and the weights.
      Leland
      Getting close to done
      
      >Subject: RV9-List: Aileron pushrod clearance
      >From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
      >
      >
      >Wrapping up the last parts of the wings ... installed the 
      >aileron pushrods and bellcrank.  Disapointed to see that the 
      >steel pushrod fouls the edge of the openning in the rear spar 
      >at both limits of aileron movement.  The max deflection of the 
      >aileron is within the limits set in the construction manual 
      >(Section 15) but you can alread see that the powder coat on the 
      >pushrod is being marred.  Also, at max up deflection one of the 
      >rivet heads that secure the rod end "catches" on the edge of 
      >the opening - this worries me - I see potential for a jammed 
      >flight control.
      >
      >Its hard to see how this cannot have been a problem in every 
      >kit since there's not much latitude for positioning given that 
      >all the holes are prepunched.
      >
      >Anyone else have these issues ?
      >
      >g
      >  
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Flap and trim settings
Date: 
Mar 22, 2005
      
      
      I would be interested to know what people are finding appropriate settings
      for the flaps and trim on takeoff.
      
      Thanks, Steve.
      G-IINI
      #90360
      
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
         "Alan Orme" , "Andy Ratcliffe" ,
         "Brad Thornberg EquiPride" ,
         "Leland" ,
         "Richard GARFORTH" ,
         "Neil Henderson" ,
         "Albert Gardner" , "Rkeech" ,
         "Gary & Sandi" , "Spadgerdog" ,
         "Ted Gardner \( Old \)" ,
         "RICHARD PYBUS" ,
         "Engineering" ,
         "Gus Funnell" 
Subject: 
G-IINI flew today.
Date: 
Mar 25, 2005
      
      
      Good Friday was a good Friday!
      
      Finally RV9a, #90360, G-IINI flew from my strip to Fishburn where she will
      be based for flight test and me to get used to her. It was singularly
      uneventful climbing to 4000' overhead, testing carb heat, checking OT and
      CHT and taking her to the edge of the stall before setting course for
      Fishburn. After a brief resumption of slow flight at that end a remarkably
      easy landing. She seemed to know exactly what to do. With it all being
      strange I dont know if I missed anything but my only reaction was that
      despite the CofG being only 20% of the way aft in its range, hands off she
      seemed quite slow to return to stable pitch trim once disturbed; to be
      investigated in the days ahead. (The trim in the cruise is also far too
      sensitive for me but this is a well known problem.) The bits I took off with
      all seemed to be there when I landed which I view as good news!
      
      Thanks to all who have put up with my inane questions and comments, but they
      were necessary I promise to get me to this point. Thanks also to all - too
      many to mention - who have helped me along the way.
      
      Steve.
      
      PS FYI, G-IINI weighs in at 1044 complete (painting & upholstery) with a
      150hp O-320-E2D, an MT electric C/S prop VFR panel, Navaid and Nova strobes.
      She is pretty much as VANS intended. I will put together some performance
      numbers in the days ahead.
      
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Surgsail(at)aol.com
Date: 
Mar 25, 2005
Subject: 
Re: G-IINI flew today.
      
      
      Congratulations, and thanks for the information.  Look forward to more  in 
      the future.  
      
      Dick
      90761
      N9339N, eventually.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 25, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
Re: G-IINI flew today.
      
      
      congrats Steve:
      Hope you have another hours till engine TBO with no problems and great pleasure
      flying 
      time.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      -9A QB
      #90997
      chap 10
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
From: 
Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
Subject: 
N194TC First Flight
      
      
      Howdy all!
      
      March 27, 2005
      
      At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
      sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
      first flight.
      
      N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
      Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL.  The plane
      is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
      
      The left wing is only very slightly heavy.  Otherwise, there are
      no squawks.  The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
      in the entire RPM range.
      
      I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
      time from first rivet to first flight.
      
      Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
      -- 
      Tim Coldenhoff
      RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: N194TC First Flight
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
      
      
      Way to go TIM!!!!!  Your an Arizona inspiration!  Glenn in Tucson  -9A
      fuselage
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Tim Coldenhoff" <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: N194TC First Flight
      
      
      >
      > Howdy all!
      >
      > March 27, 2005
      >
      > At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
      > sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
      > first flight.
      >
      > N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
      > Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL.  The plane
      > is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
      >
      > The left wing is only very slightly heavy.  Otherwise, there are
      > no squawks.  The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
      > in the entire RPM range.
      >
      > I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
      > http://rv9a.deru.com
      >
      > The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
      > time from first rivet to first flight.
      >
      > Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
      > --
      > Tim Coldenhoff
      > RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      > http://rv9a.deru.com
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
Re: N194TC First Flight
      
      
      congrats Tim.
      Put some more 1600 hs in it to be even with building time.
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      -9A QB
      #90997
      chap 10
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
From: 
"Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net>
Subject: 
N194TC First Flight
      
      
      Congartulations Tim, AKA Fat Bastard.  I've followed your sight since I
      stated my nine in Dec 03.  We'll have to get together some time.  I'll
      be flying by the end of the year, based out of DVT.
      
      Congratulations again, and I see you have that RV grin :)
      
      Roger Ping
      90869
      rpping(at)qwest.net
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Coldenhoff
      Subject: RV9-List: N194TC First Flight
      
      
      Howdy all!
      
      March 27, 2005
      
      At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
      sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
      first flight.
      
      N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
      Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL.  The plane
      is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
      
      The left wing is only very slightly heavy.  Otherwise, there are
      no squawks.  The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
      in the entire RPM range.
      
      I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
      time from first rivet to first flight.
      
      Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
      -- 
      Tim Coldenhoff
      RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
Subject: 
N194TC First Flight
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
      
      
      Awesome!!!  When do we see some of the video form that mounted camera??????
      
      Bob Hassel
      Santa Fe, NM
      RV9
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Coldenhoff
      Subject: RV9-List: N194TC First Flight
      
      
      Howdy all!
      
      March 27, 2005
      
      At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
      sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
      first flight.
      
      N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
      Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL.  The plane
      is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
      
      The left wing is only very slightly heavy.  Otherwise, there are
      no squawks.  The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
      in the entire RPM range.
      
      I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
      time from first rivet to first flight.
      
      Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
      -- 
      Tim Coldenhoff
      RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: 
Baja Flight
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
      
      
      Last Thursday my wife and I took off for a whale watching trip down the
      Baja. Left Yuma, 4 hour flight to Loreto, B.C.S., gassed up (26 gal. 500
      miles @ 2100), flew back to Mulege to the hotel, next day flew to Laguna San
      Ignacio to watch  whales, back to the hotel. Sunday morning, back to Loreto
      for gas, 4 hour flight north (32 gal @ 2350 and about a 20-25 kt headwind)
      for the most fun I've had since the last flight in the RV-9A. At one point
      You can easily see both the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez at 6500'. If this
      plane was any easier to fly it would be installed at a supermarket and cost
      a quarter to take a ride. Landed at Yuma in about 25kt of breeze with gusts
      coming from both side of the nose.
      Albert Gardner
      RV-9A 872RV
      Yuma, AZ
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
From: 
Marc Dupuis <rv9afly(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
hello
              0.01 SUB_HELLO              Subject starts with "Hello"
      
      
      Hello everyone, 
          My name is Marc Dupuis from Tallahassee ,Florida . I'm a new builder 
      of a RV-9A  Just recieve my empennage kit this week and looking forward  
      to start this project.My Dad who built a RV-6A  will help me with tools 
      and how to stuff.I don't plan to start till after Sun-N-fun.
      
      Again! Hello!
      Marc Dupuis
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: 
Re: N194TC First Flight
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
      
      
      Congratulations to you Tim. It's a great incentive for those of us 
      still toiling away. I am glad it went so well for you.
      
      Regards,
      Mike Schipper
      -9A #90768 - Finishing Kit
      www.my9a.com
      
      
      On Mar 27, 2005, at 2:43 PM, Tim Coldenhoff wrote:
      
      >
      > Howdy all!
      >
      > March 27, 2005
      >
      > At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
      > sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
      > first flight.
      >
      > N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
      > Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL.  The plane
      > is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
      >
      > The left wing is only very slightly heavy.  Otherwise, there are
      > no squawks.  The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
      > in the entire RPM range.
      >
      > I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
      > http://rv9a.deru.com
      >
      > The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
      > time from first rivet to first flight.
      >
      > Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
      > -- 
      > Tim Coldenhoff
      > RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      > http://rv9a.deru.com
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: 
Re: hello 0.01 SUB_HELLO              Subject starts with "Hello"
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
      
      
      Hi Marc,
      
      Welcome to the club. I've been working on mine for about 16 months or 
      so, and it really is a lot of fun. Don't let the small things get you 
      down. Just take your time and enjoy yourself.
      
      Regards,
      Mike Schipper
      -9A #90768 - Finishing Kit
      www.my9a.com
      
      
      On Mar 27, 2005, at 6:25 PM, Marc Dupuis wrote:
      
      > Hello everyone,
      >     My name is Marc Dupuis from Tallahassee ,Florida . I'm a new 
      > builder
      > of a RV-9A  Just recieve my empennage kit this week and looking forward
      > to start this project.My Dad who built a RV-6A  will help me with tools
      > and how to stuff.I don't plan to start till after Sun-N-fun.
      >
      > Again! Hello!
      > Marc Dupuis
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 27, 2005
From: 
jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: 
New              Subject starts with "Hello"
              1.68 SUBJ_HAS_SPACES        Subject contains lots of white space
      
      
      It will be a great time to you Marc. You could bet on it. Small victories each
      time. 
      Its amazing how perfect the pieces fit together. Dont worry about the building
      time. 
      Its good. May be building could be so good as flying.
      have good time
      JC - Aracaju - Brasil
      #90997
      -9A QB
      Chap 10
      http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 28, 2005
From: 
Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
Subject: 
Re: N194TC First Flight
      
      
      Bob Hassel wrote:
      > 
      > Awesome!!!  When do we see some of the video form that mounted camera??????
      >
      
      Good question.  I have to find a means to get the
      video off the 8mm camcorder into digital form.  I do
      have a frame grabber, so I may get a few decent still
      shots sometime soon.
      -- 
      - Tim Coldenhoff
      RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
      http://rv9a.deru.com
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
N194TC First Flight
Date: 
Mar 28, 2005
      
      
      Tom - congratulations!
      
      I made my flight 2 days before and also have an electric MT prop on a Lyco.
      
      As you get more familiar with the aircraft I will be very interested to
      compare notes on the prop. I was getting very slight overspeeds and in due
      course when we have more experience would be interested to compare notes.
      
      Regards, Steve.
      G-IINI #90360
      
      --
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com>
Subject: 
Re:RV-9A vs other aircraft
Date: 
Mar 29, 2005
      
      
      I have a question to anyone on the board who is flying the RV-9A and has
      flown other aircraft. Which aircraft comes closest to the RV-9A in feel and
      handling qualities? I am building a RV-9A and presently flying a Mooney
      M20K. I have flown the following aircraft: C-150, C-172, C-182, Cherokee
      140, C-210, C-P210, and the Mooney. Obviously, please address other aircraft
      as well. This might be of interest to other builders.
      John
      N3294C reserved
      RV-9A Fuselage
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: 
Re:RV-9A vs other aircraft
Date: 
Mar 29, 2005
      
      
      I'd have to say a Grumman AA1A albeit grossly underpowered by comparison.
      But it taught me well enough that the transition was a non-event.  I now
      have 90 hours on my 9A and I can say it's the best airplane I've ever flown
      in 36 years of flying!
      Chuck Weyant
      Santa Maria, CA
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "John Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com>
      Subject: RV9-List: Re:RV-9A vs other aircraft
      
      
      >
      >
      > I have a question to anyone on the board who is flying the RV-9A and has
      > flown other aircraft. Which aircraft comes closest to the RV-9A in feel
      and
      > handling qualities? I am building a RV-9A and presently flying a Mooney
      > M20K. I have flown the following aircraft: C-150, C-172, C-182, Cherokee
      > 140, C-210, C-P210, and the Mooney. Obviously, please address other
      aircraft
      > as well. This might be of interest to other builders.
      > John
      > N3294C reserved
      > RV-9A Fuselage
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"G B" <microsys(at)alltel.net>
Subject: 
Re: hello        0.01 SUB_HELLO              Subject starts
      with "Hello"
Date: 
Mar 31, 2005
      
      
      Marc,
      
      There are two RV-9a's in progress not too far from you.  One in Boston, near
      Thomasville,
      and mine in Moultrie.  I have found that I have spent less time than others
      building mine so
      far.  I am sure it can be done in less than 1000 hours.  I do not have the
      quick build, and up
      to the fuel tank assembly (wings mostly complete).
      
      Glen Bankston
      Moultrie, GA
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Marc Dupuis" <rv9afly(at)comcast.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: hello 0.01 SUB_HELLO Subject starts with "Hello"
      
      
      >
      > Hello everyone,
      >     My name is Marc Dupuis from Tallahassee ,Florida . I'm a new builder
      > of a RV-9A  Just recieve my empennage kit this week and looking forward
      > to start this project.My Dad who built a RV-6A  will help me with tools
      > and how to stuff.I don't plan to start till after Sun-N-fun.
      >
      > Again! Hello!
      > Marc Dupuis
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: 
RV-9 Flying
Date: 
Apr 03, 2005
      
      
      After escorting a friends RV-4 to Great Falls, MT Friday, I flew north and 
      stuck a wing over the Canadian border at Sweetgrass, MT (Ross International 
      Airport K7S8) and then flew 28 miles south landing at Shelby, MT KSBX for 
      fuel. Next stop was Salt Lake City #2 KU42 for fuel, then Kanab, UT KKNB for 
      fuel and to see a Glassair, then Yuma, AZ KYUM after sticking a wing into 
      Mexico for a distance of 988 nm.. Air was very rough North of SLC through 
      Montana with mild to strong headwinds (both directions!). Navigating and 
      communicating in rough air is made vastly easier using the Altrak Altitude 
      Hold and the NavAid Autopilot. The ControlVision GPS unit works flawlessly 
      and raises the comfort level a bunch flying over sparsely populated areas. 
      This plane is a joy to fly and land even in crosswinds. Keep building.
      Albert Gardner
      RV-9A 872RV, 423 hours
      Yuma, AZ 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
Re: RV-9 Flying
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
      
      
      Albert, that's my kind of flying....My 9 is to the buttoning up stage with a little
      more trouble shooting before going to the paint booth.
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT KLGU (Under your southbound leg)
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > After escorting a friends RV-4 to Great Falls, MT Friday, I flew north and 
      > stuck a wing over the Canadian border at Sweetgrass, MT (Ross International 
      > Airport K7S8) and then flew 28 miles south landing at Shelby, MT KSBX for 
      > fuel. Next stop was Salt Lake City #2 KU42 for fuel, then Kanab, UT KKNB for
      
      > fuel and to see a Glassair, then Yuma, AZ KYUM after sticking a wing into 
      > Mexico for a distance of 988 nm.. Air was very rough North of SLC through 
      > Montana with mild to strong headwinds (both directions!). Navigating and 
      > communicating in rough air is made vastly easier using the Altrak Altitude 
      > Hold and the NavAid Autopilot. The ControlVision GPS unit works flawlessly 
      > and raises the comfort level a bunch flying over sparsely populated areas. 
      > This plane is a joy to fly and land even in crosswinds. Keep building. 
      > Albert Gardner 
      > RV-9A 872RV, 423 hours 
      > Yuma, AZ 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      Albert, that's my kind of flying....My 9 is to the buttoning up stage with a little
      more trouble shooting before going to the paint booth.
      
      John Kerr
      Logan UT KLGU (Under your southbound leg)
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" 
      
       After escorting a friends RV-4 to Great Falls, MT Friday, I flew north and 
       stuck a wing over the Canadian border at Sweetgrass, MT (Ross International 
       Airport K7S8) and then flew 28 miles south landing at Shelby, MT KSBX for 
       fuel. Next stop was Salt Lake City #2 KU42 for fuel, then Kanab, UT KKNB for 
       fuel and to see a Glassair, then Yuma, AZ KYUM after sticking a wing into 
       Mexico for a distance of 988 nm.. Air was very rough North of SLC through 
       Montana with mild to strong headwinds (both directions!). Navigating and 
       communicating in rough air is made vastly easier using the Altrak Altitude 
       Hold and the NavAid Autopilot. The ControlVision GPS unit works flawlessly 
      &g
       t; and raises the comfort level a bunch flying over sparsely populated areas.
      
       This plane is a joy to fly and land even in crosswinds. Keep building. 
       Albert Gardner 
       RV-9A 872RV, 423 hours 
       Yuma, AZ 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
wiring harness debugging
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
      
      
      I could use a little help in thinking through the debugging of the comm and xpndr
      harnesses.  When PTT is pressed the trim indicator pegs.  I suspect that it
      is due to too small a wire for the common ground in the multifunction grip. 
      Any ideas?
      
      When the master is on the interegation light comes on the KT76A transponder, but
      when the unit is turned on, the light goes out. Que passe? Nez pas? Help?
      
      John Kerr, (working under the left half of the front deck because the other half
      was riveted prior to debugging.)
      
      I could use a little help in thinking through the debugging of the comm and xpndr
      harnesses. When PTT is pressed the trim indicator pegs. I suspect that it is
      due to too small a wire for the common ground in the multifunction grip. Any
      ideas?
      
      When the master is on the interegation light comes on the KT76A transponder, but
      when the unit is turned on, the light goes out. Que passe? Nez pas? Help?
      
      John Kerr, (working under the left half of the front deck because the other half
      was riveted prior to debugging.)
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Performance numbers
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
      
      
      Does anyone have or know where I will find actual builder performance
      numbers for the RV9A that are flying with various prop/engine / weight
      combinations? Climb, Speed etc.
      
      Thanks, Steve.
      #90360
      G-IINI
      
      -- 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Data Base as Requested
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
      
      
      RV Weight and Balance DatabaseRV Weight and Balance Database
      "Virtual Aircraft" Averages:
            Type # HP Blades Prop Diam Empty CG Empty Gross Useful Fuel Payload
            Rocket II 1 250 4 77" 84.92" 1160 2000 840 42 588
            RV-4 12 164 2 70" 68.6" 983 1554 571 31.85 380
            RV-6 10 177 2 71" 70.35" 1092 1788 695 39.35 459
            RV-6A 15 174 2 72" 69.19" 1110 1800 690 37.8 463
            RV-7 10 185 2 72" 79.71" 1072 1825 753 42 501
            RV-7A 8 183 2 73" 79.82" 1127 1856 729 42 477
            RV-8 10 182 2 72" 77.76" 1099 1800 701 42 449
            RV-8A 2 175 3 66" 77.99" 1033 1800 767 41 521
            RV-9A 6 158 2 70" 76.92" 1072 1792 719 36 503
      
      
      Click on an aircraft to see and perform sample loadings.
            Type Owner Tail # Engine HP Propeller Empty CG Empty Gross Useful Fuel Payload
      Comments
            Rocket II Thomas Gummo N561FS Lycoming IO-540 250 77" MT 4-blade Composite
      CS 84.92" 1160 2000 840 42 588  
            RV-4 Marc DeGirolamo C-FRVE Lycoming O-320 150 70" Other 2-blade Wood FP
      70.68" 973 1500 527 32 335  
            RV-4 Mitch Garner N10TH Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 72.47" 1027.2 1600 572.8 32 380.8 Datum 65" fwd of wing LE.
            RV-4 Pat Long N120PL Lycoming O-320 160 68" Sterba 2-blade Wood FP 71.3"
      960 1500 540 32 348  
            RV-4 Wayne Bonesteel N130NS Lycoming IO-320 150 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 70.72" 969 1600 631 32 439 Datum 60 in. forward of wing lea...
            RV-4 Jeff Bertsch N230KT Lycoming IO-360 180 73" Whirlwind 3-blade Composite
      CS 68.38" 1107 1700 593 32 401  
            RV-4 Dick Sipp N250DS Lycoming O-320 160 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      67.46" 1025 1500 475 32 283  
            RV-4 Scott VanArtsdalen N311SV Lycoming O-320 160 68" Catto 2-blade Composite
      FP 70.9" 874 1500 626 32 434  
            RV-4 Dave Hyde N416RV Lycoming O-320 160 68" Aymar-Demuth 2-blade Wood FP
      59.87" 952 1600 648 32 456 Datum 50 inches ahead of CG. Al...
            RV-4 Linne' Holmberg N46B Lycoming O-320 160 68" Performance Propellers 2-blade
      Wood FP 64.61" 924 1550 626 31 440  
            RV-4 Ted Lumpkin N515TL Lycoming IO-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 67.74" 1023 1550 527 32 335 I have a Christen inverted oil s...
            RV-4 Mike McGee N996RV Lycoming O-320 150 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 69.27" 979 1550 571 31.16 384.04 VFR day/night, PC680 battery on ...
            RV-4 Brent Travis N999BT Lycoming O-360 180 68" Aymar-Demuth 2-blade Wood
      FP 69.65" 986 1500 514 32 322  
            RV-6 Hank Gallagher 866RV Superior O-360 210 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 70.06" 1085 1850 765 39 531  
            RV-6 Curt Reimer C-GACR Lycoming O-320 160 70" Other 2-blade Wood FP 70.76"
      1070 1750 680 38 452 Prop Type is: Colin Walker (cana...
            RV-6 Harry Crosby N16CX Lycoming O-360 180 70" Catto 2-blade Composite FP
      71.14" 1036 1850 814 38 586  
            RV-6 Jeff Point N187CF Superior O-360 180 70" Sterba 2-blade Wood FP 70.42"
      1067 1650 583 38 355  
            RV-6 Roger Hansen N200RH Lycoming IO-360 200 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 68.82" 1244 2100 856 50.5 553 Have 12.5 gallon aux tank, oxyge...
            RV-6 David Leonard N4VY Mazda Other 160 68" Aymar-Demuth 2-blade Wood FP
      69.63" 1095 1800 705 38 477  
            RV-6 Tom Prokop N910TP Lycoming O-360 180 75" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      70.46" 1110 1850 740 38 512  
            RV-6 Tony Marshall N91CM Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 70.56" 1139 1775 636 38 408  
            RV-6 Leif Stener SE-XRV Lycoming IO-320 160 68" Other 2-blade Wood FP 71.7"
      1054 1600 546 38 318  
            RV-6 Martin Hone VH-ZMH Lycoming O-320 160 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 70.28" 1023 1650 627 38 399  
            RV-6A Bob Merritt 97WK Lycoming O-320 150 68" Other 2-blade Wood FP 70.14"
      1029 1850 821 38 593  
            RV-6A Jim Oke C-GKGZ Lycoming O-320 160 80" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum FP
      69.9" 1051 1650 599 38 371 Operation pemritted to 1750 lbs ...
            RV-6A Dale Ensing N118DE Lycoming O-360 190 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 66.95" 1084 1800 716 36 500  
            RV-6A John Ward N164JW Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      70.35" 1171 1850 679 38 451  
            RV-6A Dick Flunker N326DB Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 70.97" 1139 1800 661 38 433  
            RV-6A Dave Biddle N432DG Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 67.45" 1108 1800 692 38 464  
            RV-6A Ed Anderson N494BW Mazda Other 180 76" Other 2-blade Wood FP 68.66"
      1170 1800 630 37 408  
            RV-6A Mark Phillips N51PW Lycoming O-320 150 66" Catto 3-blade Composite
      FP 70.86" 1020 1700 680 38 452 Unpainted
            RV-6A Michael Stewart N686MS Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 70.23" 1189 2000 811 38 583  
            RV-6A DAVE GEHLE N721DP Lycoming IO-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 69.23" 1168 1850 682 38 454  
            RV-6A Jon Baker N883TT Lycoming O-320 160 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      69.15" 1120 1950 830 38 602  
            RV-6A Gary Zilik N99PZ Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      68.45" 1094 1800 706 38 478  
            RV-6A Ross Mickey N9PT Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      67.95" 1179 1850 671 38 443  
            RV-6A Werner Spenner PP XAP Lycoming O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 68.79" 1065 1650 585 38 357  
            RV-6A Werner Spenner PP-XAP Lycoming O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 68.8" 1065 1650 585 38 357  
            RV-7 cary rhodes N203CR Lycoming O-360 180 68" Other 2-blade Wood FP 83.14"
      1058 1800 742 42 490  
            RV-7 Amit Dagan N247GA Other O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum FP
      80.0" 1011 1800 789 42 537 Engine is an Aerosport power O-3...
            RV-7 Larry Helming N3XG Other O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum FP
      80.39" 1093 1800 707 42 455 Weight includes wall to wall and...
            RV-7 John Adams N577RV Lycoming O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 81.03" 1045 1747 702 42 450  
            RV-7 John Adams N577RV-1 Lycoming O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 79.91" 1065.5 1800 734.5 42 482.5 A 24.5 lb prop spacer was added ...
            RV-7 Rick Johnson N686EC Lycoming IO-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 78.69" 1026 1800 774 42 522  
            RV-7 Ross Schlotthauer N703RV Lycoming IO-390 210 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 78.81" 1103 1950 847 42 595 Elt and strobe power supply in t...
            RV-7 Dan Checkoway N714D Lycoming IO-360 200 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 77.84" 1132 1950 818 42 566  
            RV-7 Doug Preston N731RV Lycoming O-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 78.8" 1109.4 1800 690.6 42 438.6  
            RV-7 Jack Holland N77567 Lycoming IO-360 180 72" Whirlwind 2-blade Composite
      CS 78.67" 1072.5 1800 727.5 42 475.5 No paint
            RV-7A guy trottier C-FBDU Lycoming O-360 180 71" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 80.9" 1085 1800 715 42 463  
            RV-7A Steve Hurlbut C-FZQX Eggenfellner Subaru Other 165 72" Quinti 3-blade
      Other CS 79.63" 1171 1800 629 42 377  
            RV-7A Marc Bravo N 320NW Superior O-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 79.48" 1144 1875 731 42 479 Everything but the paint.
            RV-7A Roberta Hegy N2447A Lycoming O-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 79.33" 1117 1800 683 42 431  
            RV-7A Doug Jones N277DL Lycoming IO-360 200 72" MT 3-blade Composite CS 80.54"
      1142 1950 808 42 556  
            RV-7A Marc Bravo N320NW Superior O-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 79.48" 1144 1875 731 42 479 Everything but the paint.
            RV-7A John Chandler N5SP Lycoming IO-360 200 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 79.16" 1141 1950 809 42 557 680 battery no firewall, ELT beh...
            RV-7A Ronald Miller N623CM Lycoming IO-360 180 74" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 80.11" 1071.08 1800 728.92 42 476.92  
            RV-8 Charles Newman 828RV Lycoming O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 77.11" 1086 1800 714 42 462 Needs info on forward baggage co...
            RV-8 Jack Fromm N138JF Superior O-360 180 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS
      76.27" 1068 1800 732 42 480 Unpainted, Odyssey battery on fi...
            RV-8 Jim Daniels N204X Superior IO-360 180 68" Whirlwind 3-blade Composite
      CS 77.83" 1076 1800 724 42 472  
            RV-8 Rick McBride N523RJ Lycoming IO-360 200 77" Whirlwind 2-blade Composite
      CS 80.68" 1178 1800 622 42 370  
            RV-8 Randy Lervold N558RL Lycoming O-360 180 72" Whirlwind 2-blade Composite
      CS 77.83" 1106 1800 694 42 442 Plane flies MUCH better with lig...
            RV-8 Chuck Scott N737MC Lycoming IO-360 200 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 77.55" 1153 1800 647 42 395  
            RV-8 Sam Ward N84TX Lycoming O-360 180 76" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 76.79"
      1077.5 1800 722.5 42 470.5  
            RV-8 Jonathan Weiswasser N898JW Lycoming IO-360 180 72" Whirlwind 2-blade
      Composite CS 77.66" 1149 1800 651 42 399  
            RV-8 Alan Kritzman N8EM Lycoming O-320 160 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 78.31" 1035 1800 765 42 513  
            RV-8 Brian Denk N94BD Lycoming O-360 180 72" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum FP
      77.29" 1062 1800 738 42 486 Firewall mounted battery (Wally ...
            RV-8A Mark Andrews N598X Lycoming O-360 180 66" Catto 3-blade Composite FP
      78.2" 1034 1800 766 42 514 Odyssey bat, LSE and mag
            RV-8A Bill VonDane N8WV Lycoming O-320 170 66" Catto 3-blade Composite FP
      77.77" 1032 1800 768 40 528  
            RV-9A Steve Sampson G-IINI Lycoming O-320 150 71" MT 2-blade Composite CS
      77.42" 1044 1750 706 36 490 NB The prop is an MT electric pr...
            RV-9A Leland Collins N137LC Lycoming O-320 160 66" Catto 3-blade Composite
      FP 77.24" 1030 1750 720 36 504 Catto 3-Blade prop, O320, uphols...
            RV-9A Dave Nicholson N347N Eggenfellner Subaru Other 160 72" Quinti 3-blade
      Composite CS 76.73" 1213 1850 637 36 421 Includes 5# Ballast in Tail
            RV-9A David Edgemon N42DE Lycoming O-320 160 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum
      CS 77.16" 1080 1850 770 36 554  
            RV-9A Jack Eckdahl N489JE Lycoming O-320 160 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 76.04" 1017 1750 733 36 517 unpainted, no gear leg or wheel ...
            RV-9A John Clark N6699 Lycoming O-320 160 70" Sensenich 2-blade Aluminum
      FP 76.91" 1050 1800 750 36 534 painted, all done I think
      
      
      Want to enter your aircraft into this database? Start here...
            First Name: 
            Last Name: 
            Email: 
              
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
Subject: 
wiring harness debugging
      
      
       John, I doubt it has anything to do with the wire size.  PTT doesn't
      require significant current sink.  99% likely you have botched a wire
      inside your grip.  Double check them.  The only other time I might expect a
      symptom like that is if you omitted the ground altogether.  If you don't
      see any problem, try opening the PTT wire somewhere between the stick and
      stack and see how the symptoms change (i.e. does the trim light still max
      out when you push PTT and does the radio xmit when you ground the opened
      wire?).
      
       Regarding the light on your xpndr, unless your unit has some sort of power
      on self-test, your interrogation light should only come on when you are
      actively relaying a scan.  If this is not normal for your unit, I would
      start by checking your xpndr grounds (at the unit and the antenna).  Try
      unhooking the antenna and see if anything changes).
      
         
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
wiring harness debugging
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
      
      
      thanks for the tips, these won't be the first mispinned connections.
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
      > 
      > 
      > John, I doubt it has anything to do with the wire size. PTT doesn't 
      > require significant current sink. 99% likely you have botched a wire 
      > inside your grip. Double check them. The only other time I might expect a 
      > symptom like that is if you omitted the ground altogether. If you don't 
      > see any problem, try opening the PTT wire somewhere between the stick and 
      > stack and see how the symptoms change (i.e. does the trim light still max 
      > out when you push PTT and does the radio xmit when you ground the opened 
      > wire?). 
      > 
      > Regarding the light on your xpndr, unless your unit has some sort of power 
      > on self-test, your interrogation light should only come on when you are 
      > actively relaying a scan. If this is not normal for your unit, I would 
      > start by checking your xpndr grounds (at the unit and the antenna). Try 
      > unhooking the antenna and see if anything changes). 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      thanks for the tips, these won't be the first mispinned connections.
      
      -------------- Original message -------------- 
      
       -- RV9-List message posted by: "fcs(at)jlc.net" 
      
      
       John, I doubt it has anything to do with the wire size. PTT doesn't 
       require significant current sink. 99% likely you have botched a wire 
       inside your grip. Double check them. The only other time I might expect a 
       symptom like that is if you omitted the ground altogether. If you don't 
       see any problem, try opening the PTT wire somewhere between the stick and 
       stack and see how the symptoms change (i.e. does the trim light still max 
       out when you push PTT and does the radio xmit when you ground the opened 
       wire?). 
      
       Regarding the light on your xpndr, unless your unit has some sort of power 
       on self-test, your interrogation light should only come on when you are 
      
        actively relaying a scan. If this is not normal for your unit, I would 
       start by checking your xpndr grounds (at the unit and the antenna). Try 
       unhooking the antenna and see if anything changes). 
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2005
Subject: 
wiring harness debugging
      
      
      > thanks for the tips, these won't be the first mispinned connections.
      
       No problem; and don't feel bad, the first time I wired up my PTT switches
      I had inadvertently shorted one.  For about five minutes, I was muttering
      things like "what the f__k, and g__damnitall" only to discover that my
      radios were transmitting on Boston Center freq.  Must have been real 
      entertaining.  Fortunately it was late at night and I didn't say my name.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
         
Subject: 
Belt Buckles on Van's Website
Date: 
Apr 05, 2005
      
      
      I am happy to tell you that Van's Aircraft is now selling my Solid Brass buckles on their website. http://vansaircraft.com/
      
      You can still order these, or the Nickel or two tone Nickel and Gold buckles directly off of my website also.  I have posted more customer comments on my site, please feel free to check it out.  http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
      
      Glenn Brasch  -9A fuselage, Tucson.
      
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 10, 2005
         Engines-List(at)matronics.com, Europa-List(at)matronics.com,
         Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com, Kolb-List(at)matronics.com,
         Pietenpol-List(at)matronics.com, Rocket-List(at)matronics.com,
         RV-List(at)matronics.com, RV9-List(at)matronics.com, RV10-List(at)matronics.com,
         Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com, Yak-List(at)matronics.com,
         Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
From: 
Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 
Wally Messages Stopped!
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      My sincere apologies!  At about 4:30am this morning there was an odd system 
      problem on the Matornics email server, causing many mail files to become 
      marked as "read-only".  This wedged many of the List filters causing all 
      sorts of weird behavior.  Perhaps the oddest was that an innocent message 
      from Walter Critchlow, kept getting posted instead of the actual incoming 
      List message.
      
      If you receive this message, and sent a list message to any of the lists 
      your message was one of the ones that got subverted.  Please repost your 
      message to the respective list.
      
               AeroElectric-list
               Commandaer-list
               Engines-List
               Europa-List
               Kitfox-List
               Kolb-List
               Pietenpol-List
               Rocket-List
               RV-List
               RV9-List
               RV10-List
               Tailwind-List
               Yak-List
               Zenith-List
      
      Again, my sincere apologies for the problems.  I was doing my Taxes (!) 
      today and wasn't keeping as close an eye on the Lists as I normally do.
      
      Best regards,
      
      Matt Dralle
      Matronics Email List Admin
      
      
      Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
      925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
      http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Apr 11, 2005
Subject: 
Heavy wing
      
      
      Whats the best way to correct for a heavy wing....NC
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Apr 11, 2005
Subject: 
Heavy wing
      
      
      Whats the best way to correct for a heavy wing.....NC
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: 
wiring harness debugging
Date: 
Apr 12, 2005
              1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO      Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
      
      
      follow up report on the debugging.  pin by pin along with getting help to understand
      that switched 14v is internal, etc and everything checks out.
      
      the stroke of luck was that the trim indicators wires were run as a 6 wire shielded
      and after grounding the shield the flashing indicators when the PTT was pushed
      went away.  It was a good suggestion from the list that had me looking there
      first, and for the rest of you plan in advance to shield the indicator wires
      from the PPT lead forward.
      
      John Kerr
      just fiberglass and paint left
      
      follow up report on the debugging. pin by pin along with getting help to understand
      that switched 14v is internal, etc and everything checks out.
      
      the stroke of luck was that the trim indicators wires were run as a 6 wire shielded
      and after grounding the shield the flashing indicators when the PTT was pushed
      went away. It was a good suggestion from the list that had me looking there
      first, and for the rest of you plan in advance toshield the indicator wires
      from the PPT lead forward.
      
      John Kerr
      justfiberglass and paint left
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neilekins(at)aol.com
Date: 
Apr 13, 2005
Subject: 
Heavy wing help
      
      
      Im hoping to get some advice on a fix for a heavy wing....NC
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: 
RE: Heavy wing
Date: 
Apr 13, 2005
      
      
      Dug this out of the Yahoo RV-9A group..  (Search tool sucks.. just search
      for 'heavy' and scroll down.)
      
      
      From: "bryanwoodrv9a" <brywd(at)sbcglobal.net> 
      Date: Sat Mar 5, 2005  8:35 pm 
      Subject: Fixing a heavy wing on a 9A 
      
      Hello fellow RVators,
      
      Thought I'd post results on correcting for a heavy wing on a 9A. On
      other RV's the trick is to sqeeze the trailing edge of the aileron
      until the problem gets better, but with the trailing edges on our
      planes the way they are they cannot really be bent.
      
      I'm going to go through all of the things that I tried so maybe some
      of you won't go through all of the same bad ideas. As for the wing
      being heavy... It took several pounds of pressure on the stick to
      hold the left wing level. This was after carefully measuring the
      wing incidence. The leading edges were straight to the chaulk line
      with four plumb bobs used to mark it. The same rivet on the outboard
      wing rib to the same on the tail on both sides gave less than 1/16"
      difference. The incidence was set with a smart level and both wings
      are within 1/10 degree of each other. The bellcranks were set to
      neutral with the jig that came with the kit, and the ailerons set in
      line. The flaps, ailerons, and tips were all in line with each other
      and the plane had a heavy left wing. At this point here is what I
      tried, in order of failure, until finally a reasonable solution seems
      possable.
      
      1. I tried lowering the flap on the heavy wing to pick it up a bit.
      I started by turning the rod end bearing in 1/2 turn intervals and
      flying it each time. To be safe the rod end bearings at each end of
      the left actuater were turned to prevent either from not having
      enough threads engaged. When the number hit 10 1/2 turns the wing
      was balanced. This obviously couldn't be good. The flap was
      noticably lower than the other and with the extension speed at 90mph
      on the 9A it just couldn't stay. I continued to the 10 1/2 turn only
      to try and quantify the extent of the wing heavy problem. What does
      it mean? I have no idea! I put the flap back.
      
      2. From a piece of scrap aluminum long enough to span 5 rivets on
      the trailing edge of the heavy wings aileron I made a trim tab much
      like the ones you see on production planes. The problem with this
      was the strength of the aileron. It seemed like the skin of the
      aileron wanted to buckle when bending the tab to make adjustments.
      This worked, looked ugly, and caused aileron deflection for level
      flight. It seemed like it would cause a lot of drag to fly around
      like this. Off came the trim tab.
      
      3. Bought model airplane trailing edge material (balsa) and put it
      under the opposite aileron. This effectively did what the other trim
      tab did, but wasn't easily seen. Took this off too.
      
      4. Tried the wedge shaped balsa under the wing tip trailing edge
      thinking that enough up pressure could be generated to lift the heavy
      wing. This did nothing. I still don't know why, because it seems so
      obvious that it would work. I also thought as a kid I could jump off
      of the fence with an umbrella and it would work like a parachute. I
      even pre tested it on by jumping off of the porch and could tell by
      the pull on the umbrella that it was going to work. Anyway, off the
      fence I went and my knees just about crushed my cheeks on impact.
      
      5. Tried adjusting the ailerons to compensate for the heavy wing.
      Learned that the ailerons trail the airplane, but now the stick is
      leaned over. This is no good. Undid this one also. Seriously
      started to question my understanding of how airplanes fly. Okay, now
      wondering how they do.
      
      
      6. Idea! The aileron has almost twice the travel up as it does down
      so this could be used. Maybe it will have less drag to have one
      aileron deflected to hold up the heavy wing, than use a trim tab and
      have both ailerons deflected. Since the bellcrank is basically a cam
      with the aileron moving up having approx. twice the leverage as the
      one moving down,(my own theory, developed in frustration) the
      opposite aileron could be rigged down from neutral. As the wind hits
      it will go up until it trails because it has all of the leverage.
      This will displace only the aileron on the heavy wing down in flight
      effectively lifting the wing. This worked great! I flew all of my
      test time off and the plane has flown hands off ever since.
      
      I knew however that this still wasn't right so I decided to call
      Van's one more time for the answer. Depending on who I talked while
      sorting out this problem the basic idea was to just put a trim tab
      and call it a day. Finally I was told to slot the mounting brackets
      on the ailerons and raise and lower them to figure out what is
      wrong. Actually, they said I should see a slight difference in the
      way the ailerons sit and to correct by raising or lowering to correct
      for this.
      
      7. The outboard of the opposite aileron from the heavy wing was
      slightly higher than the heavy side. The steel bracket was removed
      from the aileron and slotted so the aileron could be lowered in small
      increments. Today I flew it with neutral ailerons again, rigged
      correctly, etc. and the wing is almost completly balanced with the
      ailerons in line in level cruise. Just minor tweaking and everything
      should be good.
      
      Now the electric aileron trim can be hooked back up and it will
      probably be all that is needed from here. I took the springs off
      essentially disabling it while trying to figure this out. This is
      the last squawk on the plane and it is off to the paint shop in about
      four more weeks.
      
      Regards,
      Bryan
      
      
      Matthew Brandes,
      Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      #90569
       <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
      
      EAA Chapter 1329 President
      EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 13, 2005
From: 
rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: 
Re: RE: Heavy wing
      
      
      I have just noticed that the right wing tip of the fiberglass fairing on 
      my -9A is 1-1/8" low (i.e. twisted), but the left wing tip fits 
      perfectly.  This twist basically is due to a hook (increased camber) and 
      twist  in the wing tip airfoil.
      
      Not good.
      
      I've contacted Van's and I hope to get the wing tip replaced under 
      warranty.  Any misalignment of the wing tip will have a large affect on 
      roll trim. 
      
      Vern Little
      90577
      
      Matthew Brandes wrote:
      
      >
      >Dug this out of the Yahoo RV-9A group..  (Search tool sucks.. just search
      >for 'heavy' and scroll down.)
      >
      >
      >From: "bryanwoodrv9a" <brywd(at)sbcglobal.net> 
      >Date: Sat Mar 5, 2005  8:35 pm 
      >Subject: Fixing a heavy wing on a 9A 
      >
      >Hello fellow RVators,
      >
      >Thought I'd post results on correcting for a heavy wing on a 9A. On
      >other RV's the trick is to sqeeze the trailing edge of the aileron
      >until the problem gets better, but with the trailing edges on our
      >planes the way they are they cannot really be bent.
      >
      >I'm going to go through all of the things that I tried so maybe some
      >of you won't go through all of the same bad ideas. As for the wing
      >being heavy... It took several pounds of pressure on the stick to
      >hold the left wing level. This was after carefully measuring the
      >wing incidence. The leading edges were straight to the chaulk line
      >with four plumb bobs used to mark it. The same rivet on the outboard
      >wing rib to the same on the tail on both sides gave less than 1/16"
      >difference. The incidence was set with a smart level and both wings
      >are within 1/10 degree of each other. The bellcranks were set to
      >neutral with the jig that came with the kit, and the ailerons set in
      >line. The flaps, ailerons, and tips were all in line with each other
      >and the plane had a heavy left wing. At this point here is what I
      >tried, in order of failure, until finally a reasonable solution seems
      >possable.
      >
      >1. I tried lowering the flap on the heavy wing to pick it up a bit.
      >I started by turning the rod end bearing in 1/2 turn intervals and
      >flying it each time. To be safe the rod end bearings at each end of
      >the left actuater were turned to prevent either from not having
      >enough threads engaged. When the number hit 10 1/2 turns the wing
      >was balanced. This obviously couldn't be good. The flap was
      >noticably lower than the other and with the extension speed at 90mph
      >on the 9A it just couldn't stay. I continued to the 10 1/2 turn only
      >to try and quantify the extent of the wing heavy problem. What does
      >it mean? I have no idea! I put the flap back.
      >
      >2. From a piece of scrap aluminum long enough to span 5 rivets on
      >the trailing edge of the heavy wings aileron I made a trim tab much
      >like the ones you see on production planes. The problem with this
      >was the strength of the aileron. It seemed like the skin of the
      >aileron wanted to buckle when bending the tab to make adjustments.
      >This worked, looked ugly, and caused aileron deflection for level
      >flight. It seemed like it would cause a lot of drag to fly around
      >like this. Off came the trim tab.
      >
      >3. Bought model airplane trailing edge material (balsa) and put it
      >under the opposite aileron. This effectively did what the other trim
      >tab did, but wasn't easily seen. Took this off too.
      >
      >4. Tried the wedge shaped balsa under the wing tip trailing edge
      >thinking that enough up pressure could be generated to lift the heavy
      >wing. This did nothing. I still don't know why, because it seems so
      >obvious that it would work. I also thought as a kid I could jump off
      >of the fence with an umbrella and it would work like a parachute. I
      >even pre tested it on by jumping off of the porch and could tell by
      >the pull on the umbrella that it was going to work. Anyway, off the
      >fence I went and my knees just about crushed my cheeks on impact.
      >
      >5. Tried adjusting the ailerons to compensate for the heavy wing.
      >Learned that the ailerons trail the airplane, but now the stick is
      >leaned over. This is no good. Undid this one also. Seriously
      >started to question my understanding of how airplanes fly. Okay, now
      >wondering how they do.
      >
      >
      >6. Idea! The aileron has almost twice the travel up as it does down
      >so this could be used. Maybe it will have less drag to have one
      >aileron deflected to hold up the heavy wing, than use a trim tab and
      >have both ailerons deflected. Since the bellcrank is basically a cam
      >with the aileron moving up having approx. twice the leverage as the
      >one moving down,(my own theory, developed in frustration) the
      >opposite aileron could be rigged down from neutral. As the wind hits
      >it will go up until it trails because it has all of the leverage.
      >This will displace only the aileron on the heavy wing down in flight
      >effectively lifting the wing. This worked great! I flew all of my
      >test time off and the plane has flown hands off ever since.
      >
      >I knew however that this still wasn't right so I decided to call
      >Van's one more time for the answer. Depending on who I talked while
      >sorting out this problem the basic idea was to just put a trim tab
      >and call it a day. Finally I was told to slot the mounting brackets
      >on the ailerons and raise and lower them to figure out what is
      >wrong. Actually, they said I should see a slight difference in the
      >way the ailerons sit and to correct by raising or lowering to correct
      >for this.
      >
      >7. The outboard of the opposite aileron from the heavy wing was
      >slightly higher than the heavy side. The steel bracket was removed
      >from the aileron and slotted so the aileron could be lowered in small
      >increments. Today I flew it with neutral ailerons again, rigged
      >correctly, etc. and the wing is almost completly balanced with the
      >ailerons in line in level cruise. Just minor tweaking and everything
      >should be good.
      >
      >Now the electric aileron trim can be hooked back up and it will
      >probably be all that is needed from here. I took the springs off
      >essentially disabling it while trying to figure this out. This is
      >the last squawk on the plane and it is off to the paint shop in about
      >four more weeks.
      >
      >Regards,
      >Bryan
      >
      >
      >Matthew Brandes,
      >Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
      >#90569
      > <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
      >
      >EAA Chapter 1329 President
      >EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 16, 2005
From: 
Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 
[Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade...
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend.  This includes 
      some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors - 
      as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch.  I hope to 
      have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to 
      minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
      
      Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a 
      few posts may get lost in the shuffle.  If you don't see your post show up 
      on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please 
      just try posting it again.
      
      Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux 
      7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great 
      deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to 
      the new system.  As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems 
      will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an 
      absolute minimal.  You might see a couple of odd test messages during the 
      cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
      
      I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List 
      Members on the current status of the email and web systems.  Please refer 
      to it as often as you like:
      
              http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
      
      
      Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at 
      Matronics!  Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades 
      possible!
      
      Best regards,
      
      Matt Dralle
      Matronics Email List Administrator
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
         , 
Subject: 
Best location to mount strobe power supply in RV-7/9
Date: 
Apr 16, 2005
      
      
      Fellow RV builders,
      
      I am trying to determine the best location to mount my strobe power supply (central
      supply) in my RV-7A.  Any thoughts would be helpful.  Pros and Cons.
      
      Thanks,
      
      Paul
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 16, 2005
From: 
rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: 
Re: Best location to mount strobe power supply in RV-7/9
      
      
      I installed mine underneath the baggage floor (and fabricated an access 
      hatch).  You can see the details at
      
      http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/photos/Electrical/Electrical_photos.html  
      about half way down
      
      Vern Little
      
      Merems wrote:
      
      >
      >Fellow RV builders,
      >
      >I am trying to determine the best location to mount my strobe power supply (central
      supply) in my RV-7A.  Any thoughts would be helpful.  Pros and Cons.
      >
      >Thanks,
      >
      >Paul
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Surgsail(at)aol.com
Date: 
Apr 17, 2005
Subject: 
Re: Best location to mount strobe power supply in RV-7/9
      
      
      Had the same question.  I mounted mine on the right side behind the  baggage 
      bulkhead.  Made bracket utilizing the longeron and J  stringer.  Looks better 
      there than on the floor.  Hope it works  well--not hooked up yet.  Can send a 
      picture if you like. 
      
      Dick
      N9339--cowling, firewall forward. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Subject: 
Best location to mount strobe power supply in RV-7/9
Date: 
Apr 17, 2005
      
      
      Mine is beside an access plate in the wing. No regrets. Steve
      
      #90360
      G-IINI
      
      -- 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Dual Throttle Control in an RV-7/9
Date: 
Apr 17, 2005
      
      
      Fellow RV-builders,
      
      I really want a left hand throttle control in my RV, but also recognize the advantages
      of having a center throttle, mixture, prop control etc.  So to solve this
      conflict I am designing a dual throttle control in my RV-7A.  I would like
      to know if any of you fellow builders might be interested in this dual approach.
      Please contact me at pmerems(at)experimentalaero.com.
      
      Paul (RV-4/RV-7A fuse)

---

December 28, 2004 - April 17, 2005

RV9-Archive.digest.vol-aq

---