RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ar
April 17, 2005 - October 23, 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Best location to mount strobe power supply in RV-7/9 |
mounted mine behind the baggage bulkhead on the 729a bellcrank rib
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I installed mine underneath the baggage floor (and fabricated an access
> hatch). You can see the details at
>
> http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/photos/Electrical/Electrical_photos.
> html
> about half way down
>
> Vern Little
>
> Merems wrote:
>
> >
> >Fellow RV builders,
> >
> >I am trying to determine the best location to mount my strobe power supply
> (central supply) in my RV-7A. Any thoughts would be helpful. Pros and Cons.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
mounted mine behind the baggage bulkhead on the 729a bellcrank rib
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: rv-9a-online
I installed mine underneath the baggage floor (and fabricated an access
hatch). You can see the details at
http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/photos/Electrical/Electrical_photos.
html
about half way down
Vern Little
Merems wrote:
-- RV9-List message posted by: "Merems"
Fellow RV builders,
I am trying to determine the best location to mount my strobe power supply
(central supply) in my RV-7A. Any thoughts would be helpful. Pros and Cons.
Thanks,
Paul
>
;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator end-caps and trailing edge thickness |
10:27:15,
Serialize by Router on slcnot1/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 04/20/2005
10:27:17,
Serialize complete at 04/20/2005 10:27:17,
Itemize by SMTP Server on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.5|March 27, 2005) at
04/20/2005
12:27:17,
Serialize by Router on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.5|March 27, 2005) at 04/20/2005
12:27:18,
Serialize complete at 04/20/2005 12:27:18
I have a question about the fiberglass end-caps for the elevator. The
thickness of the fiberglass at the trailing edge of the cap is significantly
thicker than the trailing edge of the elevator where they meet up. Is it
OK, or even desirable, to sand down the fiberglass so the trailing edge
matches? Or will this make the fiberglass cap too thin and weak?
Thanks,
Bob Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator end-caps and trailing edge thickness |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I had a similar question, although in the other direction - I
ended up with the trailing edge of my aileron (same
construction process) thicker than I'd expected. The advice I
received from the group was that it made little or no
difference. I think you can assume the same for the fiberglass
tip of the elevator. You'll probably do more harm than good
reducing its thickness.
Best of luck ...
__g__
>
>
> I have a question about the fiberglass end-caps for the elevator. The
> thickness of the fiberglass at the trailing edge of the cap is
> significantly
> thicker than the trailing edge of the elevator where they meet
> up. Is it
> OK, or even desirable, to sand down the fiberglass so the trailing edge
> matches? Or will this make the fiberglass cap too thin and weak?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Smith
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator end-caps and trailing edge thickness |
autolearn=no version=2.63
Bob
I had the same problem with mine. One of them was over 1/4" thick at the
end and the other about 1/4". They looked really ugly. Also, the fit was
not good - they were somewhat twisted.
I used a dremel cut-off wheel (you could use a hack saw) to open up the
trailing edge. I followed up the joint line about 4" and kept removing
material until the trailing edge was an acceptable thickness - about 1/8".
I used a structural adhesive compatable with fibreglass (Proform Structural
Adhesive #PF704, flexible plastic repair kit - works well on FG) and
rebonded the opened up joint. Make sure that there is no twist when
rebonding. I also used the Proform to fill some nasty blemishes on the
elevator tips.
Don't sand the outside of the fibreglass, because the outside is gelcoat,
which gives you a nice smooth finish.
Hope this helps.
Cliff, 9A wings/fuse
Chase, BC
- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator end-caps and trailing edge thickness
>
> I have a question about the fiberglass end-caps for the elevator. The
> thickness of the fiberglass at the trailing edge of the cap is
significantly
> thicker than the trailing edge of the elevator where they meet up. Is it
> OK, or even desirable, to sand down the fiberglass so the trailing edge
> matches? Or will this make the fiberglass cap too thin and weak?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Smith
>
>
> --
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon Magnetomer Calibration |
Yesterday I taxied over to the airport compass rose and calibrated my
Dynon D10A with remote magnetometer. After aligning and calibrating to
each of the four principal directions, I was surprised and pleased to
find that the calculated correction was only one degree. On taxing back
to the hangar, the Dynon compass agreed with GPS readings to a degree or
so. This was a surprise because I installed the magnetometer bracket
with steel nutplates and screws. And it was mounted too close to a
shoulder-harness cable.
Leland
Waiting for the FAA Registration Branch to catch up on paperwork
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi Leland:
Our similar FAA, we call it DAC (Departamento de Aviao Civil) charged me almost
US$
250,00 for taxes to create a airworthiness certificate and Nnumbers.
Here, in Brasil, we need an approval from an enginneer specialized in aviation,
and 50
hours flying in a restricted area in order to receive a definite airworthness
certificate.
These enginneer charged me US$700.00 plus air tickets from Rio de Janeiro to my
workshop.
He wants to assist the weight and balance task.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
-9A QB
engine
http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Centre section bolts |
I'm at the stage of fitting the 904 centre sections together with the spacers to
match-drill the bottom skin and the 904 H side plates. The problem is with
the 7/16" bolts through the 904 centre sections being REALLY tight.
I realize that these need to have a really snug fit, but these bolts seem to be
too tight - I need to use a fairly heavy blow with the dead-blow hammer (soft
face) to get these bolts to move, even with them oiled. I don't want to damage
the bolts or the aluminum pieces.
Any suggestions? Please.
Cliff 9A wings/fuse
Chase, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James J. Varney" <jvarney(at)vfpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest:1 Msgs - 04/22/05 |
Cliff,
When you riveted the 904-D L&R and the 904-C L&R to the 904 E&F parts,
and you just clecoed the parts together and riveted without a bolt thru
them, you may have a slight mis-alignment of the holes.
Happened to me and others. Van's wasn't much help, so I took a step
drill and very slowly and carefully, used it (by hand) as a reamer to
trim the 904 D & C plate holes to line up with the 904 E&F holes. It
doesn't take much, so go slow and do it by hand. No more hammering bolts
in those holes for me.
If this is still not clear let me know and I'll try to give you more info.
James J Varney
RV-7A Fuse
>
> I'm at the stage of fitting the 904 centre sections together with the spacers
to
> match-drill the bottom skin and the 904 H side plates. The problem is with
> the 7/16" bolts through the 904 centre sections being REALLY tight.
>
> I realize that these need to have a really snug fit, but these bolts seem to
be
> too tight - I need to use a fairly heavy blow with the dead-blow hammer (soft
> face) to get these bolts to move, even with them oiled. I don't want to damage
> the bolts or the aluminum pieces.
>
> Any suggestions? Please.
> Cliff 9A wings/fuse
> Chase, BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest:1 Msgs - 04/22/05 |
Be sure to lubricate bolts.
--- "James J. Varney" wrote:
>
>
> Cliff,
>
> When you riveted the 904-D L&R and the 904-C L&R to
> the 904 E&F parts,
> and you just clecoed the parts together and riveted
> without a bolt thru
> them, you may have a slight mis-alignment of the
> holes.
>
> Happened to me and others. Van's wasn't much help,
> so I took a step
> drill and very slowly and carefully, used it (by
> hand) as a reamer to
> trim the 904 D & C plate holes to line up with the
> 904 E&F holes. It
> doesn't take much, so go slow and do it by hand. No
> more hammering bolts
> in those holes for me.
>
> If this is still not clear let me know and I'll try
> to give you more info.
>
> James J Varney
> RV-7A Fuse
>
>
> >
> > I'm at the stage of fitting the 904 centre
> sections together with the spacers to
> > match-drill the bottom skin and the 904 H side
> plates. The problem is with
> > the 7/16" bolts through the 904 centre sections
> being REALLY tight.
> >
> > I realize that these need to have a really snug
> fit, but these bolts seem to be
> > too tight - I need to use a fairly heavy blow with
> the dead-blow hammer (soft
> > face) to get these bolts to move, even with them
> oiled. I don't want to damage
> > the bolts or the aluminum pieces.
> >
> > Any suggestions? Please.
> > Cliff 9A wings/fuse
> > Chase, BC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "More than anything else the sensation
> is one of perfect peace mingled with
> an excitement that strains every nerve
> to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
> a combination."
>
> -- Wilbur Wright
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | re: Centre section bolts |
Cliff,
Use store bought 7/16" bolts when doing the initial fitting.. don't use the
bolts that came with the kit as these are NAS close tolerance bolts and will
require some force to get in. You only use these when you mate the wings
for the final time. A lot of builders stick them in the freezer overnight
to get them to shrink just a bit and then use some lubricant to put them
in.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | re: Centre section bolts |
NAS bolts into the spar.
I used the NAS bolts - ordered 8 more - just to get the holes to open up a
microscopic amount so that when it should be time to put the wings on it
should not be too much of a hassle.
My method was to use Boelube and press down on the bolts as I turned them
back and forth with a wrench. I did not use a mallet except for those bolts
that went in easily.
I figure that the holes were machine to fit the NAS bolts however the
anodizing process built up a layer of oxide which made the hole a hair
smaller. By forcing the NAS bolt in with rotating motions, some of the oxide
is stripped off thereby making the hole just a bit larger.
Very unscientific but I believe it should enable me to get the bolts in more
easily when putting the wings on.
Michle
RV8 Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 3:59 PM
> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: re: Centre section bolts
>
>
> Cliff,
>
> Use store bought 7/16" bolts when doing the initial fitting.. don't use
> the
> bolts that came with the kit as these are NAS close tolerance bolts and
> will
> require some force to get in. You only use these when you mate the wings
> for the final time. A lot of builders stick them in the freezer
> overnight
> to get them to shrink just a bit and then use some lubricant to put them
> in.
>
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> #90569
> <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1329 President
> EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Centre section bolts |
autolearn=no version=2.63
Thanks, guys, for all the suggestions.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: re: Centre section bolts
>
> NAS bolts into the spar.
>
> I used the NAS bolts - ordered 8 more - just to get the holes to open up a
> microscopic amount so that when it should be time to put the wings on it
> should not be too much of a hassle.
>
> My method was to use Boelube and press down on the bolts as I turned them
> back and forth with a wrench. I did not use a mallet except for those
bolts
> that went in easily.
>
> I figure that the holes were machine to fit the NAS bolts however the
> anodizing process built up a layer of oxide which made the hole a hair
> smaller. By forcing the NAS bolt in with rotating motions, some of the
oxide
> is stripped off thereby making the hole just a bit larger.
>
> Very unscientific but I believe it should enable me to get the bolts in
more
> easily when putting the wings on.
>
> Michle
> RV8 Fuselage
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
> > Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 3:59 PM
> > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV9-List: re: Centre section bolts
> >
> >
> > Cliff,
> >
> > Use store bought 7/16" bolts when doing the initial fitting.. don't use
> > the
> > bolts that came with the kit as these are NAS close tolerance bolts and
> > will
> > require some force to get in. You only use these when you mate the
wings
> > for the final time. A lot of builders stick them in the freezer
> > overnight
> > to get them to shrink just a bit and then use some lubricant to put them
> > in.
> >
> >
> > Matthew Brandes,
> > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > #90569
> > <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
> >
> > EAA Chapter 1329 President
> > EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Nose gear design |
I have read the March 10 letter on the 'letters and SB's' section of the
VANS web site but really do not know what it is describing. Is it a larger
wheel? It does not say that, but it does describe a larger axle / ground
clearance. Can anyone enlighten me? (I would have thought the distance
between the centre of the wheel and the ground was controled by its
diameter!)
A shame VANS did not see fit to invest in a plan. Has anyone got one? Can
they scan it?
Thanks, Steve.
G-IINI #90360
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
I was doing some of the flight tests we have to do here in the UK and I have
some pretty reliable climb info which I thought I would share. I know I was
very interested when I was building.
#90360 RV9A
O-320-E2D & electric c/s MT prop - 150hp
Gross = 1617lbs
90mph climb 1635 fpm
100mph climb at 1645 fpm
These seem slightly better than VANS numbers. That I cant explain but I
think they are quite repeatable.
I suspect best climb will turn out at 105 or 110mph. Below 90 it falls off
badly.
Ambient temp at surface 68F, climbs between 1000' and 3000' on 1013mb
Speed? I still have no idea. Its harder to do accurately than I ever
believed.
Keep riveting, Steve.
G-IINI
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest:1 nose gear |
Steve
Van's letter addresses the distance between the NOSE STRUT AXLE and the
ground, not the wheel axle. I happen to agree with Van's that you cannot design
anything, especially a nose gear that is fool-proof and fail-proof. I've seen
a
lot of collapsed nose gears over the years and almost all were a result of
pilot abuse. The most by far are bounced landings and the pilot allowed the nose
to drop. And some where they just landed it on the nose. And of course there
were a few where the pilot took a short excursion through a ditch or a frozen
snow bank. A very small percentage were a result of linkage or unabused
structural failure.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | IO-320; Catto props |
I posted this to the general RV list but I thought I'd post here too -not sure
how many 9 builders/flyers subscribe to the master list as well...
(The first part concerns my vacillating between a 7/9 and why I decided on the
9.)
First of all, for anybody who followed the thread, I did decide to go with the
9A over the 7. I was originally going to just put my order on hold until I got
a chance to fly both the 7A and 9A but did enough research and got enough
private mails from people on the list to convince me. And I'm never going to
get the chance to fly either in IMC as a demo anyway. I sort of liked the
possibility of sport aerobatics at some point but XC and especially IFR
suitability and stability are much more important to me. Can't have
everything.
(It wasn't that I didn't know the differences between the 9 and the 7 - I did -
but I guess I had convinced myself that since many ppl fly IFR in 6s/7s, I
could too. And maybe I could, but I'd rather have the stable ride.
Single-pilot IMC in my C-152 is demanding enough for me - I'd rather not
increase the workload.)
Going to the 9 is fitting, though, since seeing the 9A prototype at OSH 2000
was what initially inspired me to get my PPL. It was the first kitplane I ever
wanted, and now I've come full-circle indeed. (I was almost embarrassed to
call Van's again after just changing my order from a 10 to a 7A, but the girl
laughed and said this is not terribly uncommon. They hadn't started putting
together my QB kit.)
Question regarding engines. I'm not at all sure I'd want to go FI (I'm trying
to keep the costs down, since my panel is gonna cost a bundle, and I like the
simplicity of the carb), but I noticed that Van's offers no FWF kit for the
IO-320. I am sure there are those out there with FI 320s - how much of a pain
was it? Where is your servo mounted? Are you using the stock cowl with the
scoop?
2nd question: Experiences with the 3-bladed Catto prop? It looks to me like
they make great stuff. I did search the archive and see some positive reports.
I would be really interested in seeing numbers to compare to the 79 pitch
Sensenich that Van's recommends.
TIA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Mike Holland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Mike Holland
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Quickbuild Fuel Pickup Issue
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/hollandm@pacbell.net.05.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest:1 nose gear |
Bob, The issue is that it just does not handle soft ground very well with
the small wheels. Perhaps somthing that is uncommon in the USA. I think you
are mostly on formal runways. The drag is huge on the mains when you land
on a soft dirt strip so with the stick against the rear stop the nosewheel
soon comes down and there is nothing you can do. The drag is even huger on
the nosewheel.
It also makes takeoff poor since getting the nosewheel in the air is very
dificult. Until you do there is a huge load on the small nosewheel since the
aircraft probably has a negative angle of attack. Once you get the nosewheel
airborn almost immeadiatly you are fklying.
On tarmac I am sure, and in the air it is fantastic.
the good news is that it is so easy to land so there is no reason to bounce.
Steve.
G-IINI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobdeva(at)aol.com
Subject: RV9-List: Re: RV9-List Digest:1 nose gear
Steve
Van's letter addresses the distance between the NOSE STRUT AXLE and the
ground, not the wheel axle. I happen to agree with Van's that you cannot
design
anything, especially a nose gear that is fool-proof and fail-proof. I've
seen a
lot of collapsed nose gears over the years and almost all were a result of
pilot abuse. The most by far are bounced landings and the pilot allowed the
nose
to drop. And some where they just landed it on the nose. And of course there
were a few where the pilot took a short excursion through a ditch or a
frozen
snow bank. A very small percentage were a result of linkage or unabused
structural failure.
Bob
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
on behalf of the London Business School community.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OFF THE TOPIC: Young Eagle Credits |
| From: | "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichaelV(at)JohnDeere.com> |
"RV-9 LIST (RV-9 LIST)"
FILETIME=[8811EFC0:01C55562]
Our EAA chapter is sending three young men (we sent two young ladies
last year) to the Advanced Aviation Air Academy during Airventure. If
anyone has any YOUNG EAGLE CREDITS that are not spoken for PLEASE
contact me OFF the list. In the last six year EAA Chapter 75 and the
QCAA (Quad City Airmen's Association) has sent 12 young to the Air
Academy. PLEASE help us continue introducing young people to General
Aviation. This is the only thing the YOUNG EAGLE CREDITS can be used
for; to help pay up to half the tuition for each attendee.
Thank You
Michael V. Nightingale
@ DEERE & Co. Computer Center
400 19th ST
MOLINE, IL. 61265
309-314-6806 cell NightingaleMichaelV(at)JohnDeere.com
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be> |
| Subject: | trim -manual- tab horns |
Hello All,
Does anyone know the seize of the hole where the nylon clevis 1032 is
attached.
I want to drill this hole in the two horns before priming, painting and
riveting them to the tab.
Thanks.
Jef in Belgium; 91031.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be> |
| Subject: | trim -manual- tab horns |
I was informed off list that the clevis pin is 1/8".
Thanks. Jef.
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Jef Vervoort
Verzonden: woensdag 11 mei 2005 10:39
Aan: rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV9-List: trim -manual- tab horns
Hello All,
Does anyone know the seize of the hole where the nylon clevis 1032 is
attached.
I want to drill this hole in the two horns before priming, painting and
riveting them to the tab.
Thanks.
Jef in Belgium; 91031.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-705G - Tip up canopy only ... ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I know these angles are required for the tip-up canopy and I'm
fairly sure should be ommited completely for the slider canopy,
but wanted to check with others ... can anyone confirm ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | F-705G - Tip up canopy only ... ? |
Gerry,
You're correct. Those are only for the tip up. I am building a slider so I
have already studied the plans ten times to make sure.
Regards,
Mike
90709 fuse...waiting on bigger workshop to be built
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV9-List: F-705G - Tip up canopy only ... ?
I know these angles are required for the tip-up canopy and I'm
fairly sure should be ommited completely for the slider canopy,
but wanted to check with others ... can anyone confirm ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Adhesive from H#$*% |
I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear plastic on one
side. After pealing the plastic off, there was an adhesive film left
behind. This stuff is like pro seal. I haven't found anything that will
cut it off the aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even methyl ethyl death
wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this stuff off?
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A
If Nothing Changes
Nothing Changes!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Adhesive from H#$*% |
Try Goo Gone.
Ralph
Livermore Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Perkinson
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 5:40 PM
> To: Matronics RV-9 List
> Subject: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
>
>
>
>
> I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear
> plastic on one side. After pealing the plastic off, there
> was an adhesive film left behind. This stuff is like pro
> seal. I haven't found anything that will cut it off the
> aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even methyl ethyl death
> wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this stuff off?
>
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A
> If Nothing Changes
> Nothing Changes!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adhesive from H#$*% |
I had the same problem... but what I thought was adhesive residue was in
fact, corrosion. It had to be sanded off. As far as I know, the
plastic film does not use adhesive.
Vern Little
Bob Perkinson wrote:
>
>I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear plastic on one
>side. After pealing the plastic off, there was an adhesive film left
>behind. This stuff is like pro seal. I haven't found anything that will
>cut it off the aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even methyl ethyl death
>wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this stuff off?
>
>
>Bob Perkinson
>Hendersonville, TN.
>RV9A
>If Nothing Changes
>Nothing Changes!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 05/14/05 |
| From: | "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com> |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "EXT-Allen, David"
Try Goo Gone to remove adhesive from aluminum.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV9-List Digest Server [mailto:rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 05/14/05
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-05-14.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-05-14.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV9-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sat 05/14/05: 4
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:41 PM - Adhesive from H#$*% (Bob Perkinson)
2. 06:53 PM - Re: Adhesive from H#$*% (Ralph Cloud)
3. 07:02 PM - Re: Adhesive from H#$*% ()
4. 09:47 PM - Re: Adhesive from H#$*% (rv-9a-online)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 04:57:39 -0700
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson"
I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear plastic on
one side. After pealing the plastic off, there was an adhesive film
left behind. This stuff is like pro seal. I haven't found anything
that will cut it off the aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even
methyl ethyl death wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this
stuff off?
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A
If Nothing Changes
Nothing Changes!
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 04:57:39 -0700
From: "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph(at)flash.net>
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud"
Try Goo Gone.
Ralph
Livermore Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Perkinson
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 5:40 PM
> To: Matronics RV-9 List
> Subject: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
>
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson"
>
>
> I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear
> plastic on one side. After pealing the plastic off, there
> was an adhesive film left behind. This stuff is like pro
> seal. I haven't found anything that will cut it off the
> aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even methyl ethyl death
> wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this stuff off?
>
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A
> If Nothing Changes
> Nothing Changes!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 04:57:39 -0700
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
--> RV9-List message posted by:
Did you try a detergent or soap of any kind?
Do not archive
--- Bob Perkinson wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson"
>
>
> I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that
> has clear plastic on one
> side. After pealing the plastic off, there was an
> adhesive film left
> behind. This stuff is like pro seal. I haven't
> found anything that will
> cut it off the aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone,
> even methyl ethyl death
> wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this
> stuff off?
>
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A
> If Nothing Changes
> Nothing Changes!
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 04:57:39 -0700
From: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Adhesive from H#$*%
--> RV9-List message posted by: rv-9a-online
I had the same problem... but what I thought was adhesive residue was in
fact, corrosion. It had to be sanded off. As far as I know, the
plastic film does not use adhesive.
Vern Little
Bob Perkinson wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson"
>
>I got a piece of aluminum from Aircraft Spruce that has clear plastic
>on one side. After pealing the plastic off, there was an adhesive film
>left behind. This stuff is like pro seal. I haven't found anything
>that will cut it off the aluminum. Lacquer thinner, acetone, even
>methyl ethyl death wont cut it. Does anyone know what will cut this
>stuff off?
>
>
>Bob Perkinson
>Hendersonville, TN.
>RV9A
>If Nothing Changes
>Nothing Changes!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
| From: | "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com> |
I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make a
decision regarding flaps.
How about some pros and cons on the subject.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
I like the electric my self...Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
David
Unless Van has made a recent change, electric flaps have always been
standard on the RV-9/9A.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
>
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make a
> decision regarding flaps.
>
> How about some pros and cons on the subject.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
For your consideration: I like the electric flaps and some builders have
installed the optional kit that gives you flap positioning with just a flip
of the switch. When they're down, flipping the switch will raise them
completely. Several builders felt the electric trim system didn't give
sensitive enough control so have installed a switch that selects reduced
trim voltage when flaps are raised, and full trim voltage when flaps are
deployed. Some have the flap switch on the stick grip but mine is on the
panel near the throttle so that I can raise the flaps with my hand on the
throttle. Some have a flap position indicator on the panel, some use the
stripped matching lines on the trailing edge of the wing method and some
just look out the window to see flap position. Apparently whatever method
you pick, it will turn out to be the best way of doing things.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
You don't get a choice on this one. The -9A comes standard with
electric flaps, and there is no mention in the plans for a manual flap
option.
Mike Schipper
-9A #90768 - Finishing
www.my9a.com
On May 26, 2005, at 6:44 AM, EXT-Allen, David wrote:
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make
> a
> decision regarding flaps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric |
Hi Allen, as the other posts have pointed out the only
choice is electric. You could probably design a manual
system but the electric systems works very well. I
chose to keep mine as simple as possible, just the 2
position momentary contact switch on the panel. It
takes 8 seconds from full up to full down. I can
easily look out the window and see the position or
believe it or not you can hear when the motor comes
to the end of it's travel.
Denis Thomas
RV9 N164DV 186 hours
--- "EXT-Allen, David" wrote:
>
>
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings
> kit and must make a
> decision regarding flaps.
>
> How about some pros and cons on the subject.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
"'Gill, Bill'"
| Subject: | Aircraft Registration form |
I recently submitted my Aircraft Registration form (AC Form 8050-1) and as
feared it was kicked back for a minor mistake that I thought I would warn
those who haven't registered about.
At the bottom of the form in the signature blocks you must PRINT your name
below your signature. The form tells you this right about the signature
block but if you aren't paying attention, it is easily missed.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/27/05 |
Mathew, my registration form has been kicked back three times, once for
the same problem you mentioned. My advice is for builders to register at
least 2-3 months before planning to call for an inspection. You can't
get an inspection until you have the registration in hand.
Leland
Still waiting
N137LC
>
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
> "'Gill, Bill'"
>Subject: RV9-List: Aircraft Registration form
>
>
>I recently submitted my Aircraft Registration form (AC Form 8050-1) and as
>feared it was kicked back for a minor mistake that I thought I would warn
>those who haven't registered about.
>
>At the bottom of the form in the signature blocks you must PRINT your name
>below your signature. The form tells you this right about the signature
>block but if you aren't paying attention, it is easily missed.
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 05/26/05 |
| From: | "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com> |
As several of you have pointed out, electric flaps is standard on the
RV9A.
Sorry I wasn't up to speed on that.
But I'm glad I made the post anyway because of all the interesting
discussion on electric flap options.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: RV9-List Digest Server [mailto:rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 05/26/05
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-05-26.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2005-05-26.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV9-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 05/26/05: 6
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Flaps -- Manual or Electric (EXT-Allen, David)
2. 04:54 AM - Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric (Neilekins(at)aol.com)
3. 05:16 AM - Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric (Dean)
4. 05:49 AM - Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric (Albert Gardner)
5. 06:22 AM - Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric (Michael Schipper)
6. 07:19 AM - Re: Flaps -- Manual or Electric ()
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Subject: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
-->
I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make a
decision regarding flaps.
How about some pros and cons on the subject.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: Neilekins(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
I like the electric my self...Neil
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
David
Unless Van has made a recent change, electric flaps have always been
standard on the RV-9/9A.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
>
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make
> a decision regarding flaps.
>
> How about some pros and cons on the subject.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
For your consideration: I like the electric flaps and some builders have
installed the optional kit that gives you flap positioning with just a
flip
of the switch. When they're down, flipping the switch will raise them
completely. Several builders felt the electric trim system didn't give
sensitive enough control so have installed a switch that selects reduced
trim voltage when flaps are raised, and full trim voltage when flaps are
deployed. Some have the flap switch on the stick grip but mine is on the
panel near the throttle so that I can raise the flaps with my hand on
the
throttle. Some have a flap position indicator on the panel, some use the
stripped matching lines on the trailing edge of the wing method and some
just look out the window to see flap position. Apparently whatever
method
you pick, it will turn out to be the best way of doing things. Albert
Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
-->
You don't get a choice on this one. The -9A comes standard with
electric flaps, and there is no mention in the plans for a manual flap
option.
Mike Schipper
-9A #90768 - Finishing
www.my9a.com
On May 26, 2005, at 6:44 AM, EXT-Allen, David wrote:
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings kit and must make
> a
> decision regarding flaps.
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flaps -- Manual or Electric
Hi Allen, as the other posts have pointed out the only
choice is electric. You could probably design a manual
system but the electric systems works very well. I
chose to keep mine as simple as possible, just the 2
position momentary contact switch on the panel. It
takes 8 seconds from full up to full down. I can
easily look out the window and see the position or
believe it or not you can hear when the motor comes
to the end of it's travel.
Denis Thomas
RV9 N164DV 186 hours
--- "EXT-Allen, David" wrote:
>
>
> I'm about ready to place an order for the RV9A wings
> kit and must make a
> decision regarding flaps.
>
> How about some pros and cons on the subject.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim tab |
After installing the trim tab on the left elevator, it appears that the trim tab,
when in the neutral position with the inboard surface of the elevator is twisted
as the outboard trim is about 1/4" out of neutral when I put a straight
edge along the rib axis. The trailing edge of the trim tab is staight.
Is this normal or where did I go wrong? More importantly, any way to correct it
short of building a new trim tab?
Thanks for any suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab |
You could try twisting it, but the best solution might be to order new
trim tab parts and move on to something else. Come back to the trim tab
in a week or two when the new parts arrive and try it again. The twist
you describe may not be an issue for flight, but these are inexpensive
parts to replace.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On May 31, 2005, at 7:54 AM, Nigel Goad wrote:
>
> After installing the trim tab on the left elevator, it appears that
> the trim tab, when in the neutral position with the inboard surface of
> the elevator is twisted as the outboard trim is about 1/4" out of
> neutral when I put a straight edge along the rib axis. The trailing
> edge of the trim tab is staight.
> Is this normal or where did I go wrong? More importantly, any way to
> correct it short of building a new trim tab?
> Thanks for any suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim tab |
I would take a close look at the elevator. The possibility that a twist was
built into it, is stronger than building a twist into the trim tab.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A
If Nothing Changes
Nothing Changes!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nigel Goad
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator trim tab
After installing the trim tab on the left elevator, it appears that the trim
tab, when in the neutral position with the inboard surface of the elevator
is twisted as the outboard trim is about 1/4" out of neutral when I put a
straight edge along the rib axis. The trailing edge of the trim tab is
staight.
Is this normal or where did I go wrong? More importantly, any way to correct
it short of building a new trim tab?
Thanks for any suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 05/31/05 |
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone come up with a good way to fasten a carpet down? I insulated with
Ensolite and then carefully fit a piece of carpet. Problem is every time I
push forward with my feet to exit, the carpet slides forward slightly. After a
dozen or so flights it's bunched up ahead of the rudder pedals. I don't want to
glue it down nor do I want any fasteners through the belly. Ideas, Please!
Gotta be be an easy, simple way.
Thanks, Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)RV9Builder.com> |
(snip)Has anyone come up with a good way to fasten a carpet down?
How about Velcro???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin carpet? |
Try Carpet tape. Available at your local building supply (Lowe's, etc.)
Jeff
Bobdeva(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Has anyone come up with a good way to fasten a carpet down? I insulated with
>Ensolite and then carefully fit a piece of carpet. Problem is every time I
>push forward with my feet to exit, the carpet slides forward slightly. After
a
>dozen or so flights it's bunched up ahead of the rudder pedals. I don't want to
>glue it down nor do I want any fasteners through the belly. Ideas, Please!
>Gotta be be an easy, simple way.
>
>Thanks, Bob D
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin carpet? |
Bob,
My floor carpet is glued to 1/2" padding and then some heavy cardboard
material, the kind they use in upholstery. It is then laid in the floor
sections with the end butting against the firewall. This makes the whole
assembly rigid enough that the carpet does not bunch up when getting in/out,
and is still easily removable. No fasteners.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobdeva(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: cabin carpet?
>
> Has anyone come up with a good way to fasten a carpet down? I insulated
> with
> Ensolite and then carefully fit a piece of carpet. Problem is every time I
> push forward with my feet to exit, the carpet slides forward slightly.
> After a
> dozen or so flights it's bunched up ahead of the rudder pedals. I don't
> want to
> glue it down nor do I want any fasteners through the belly. Ideas,
> Please!
> Gotta be be an easy, simple way.
>
> Thanks, Bob D
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: cabin carpet? |
I read an article of applying a thin layer of construction adhesive to the
bottom of the carpet. I have not tried it yet thought.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin carpet? |
On my airplane we used velcro and attached it with a
rubber cement our local upholstery shop gave us. That
glue didn't hold. We re-glued it with a 5 minute
epoxy and now it's fine.
Dennis Thomas
--- Sargentclt(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> I read an article of applying a thin layer of
> construction adhesive to the
> bottom of the carpet. I have not tried it yet
> thought.
>
> Tad Sargent
> Sargentclt(at)CS.com
> RV7A
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-623 Baggage Compt Corner Ribs |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
0.25 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
0.74 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.40 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
Scratchin' my head once again ...
The plans seem to indicate that the edge of the F-623 baggage
corner rib abuts the edge of the lower flange of the F-705A
bulkhead channel ... then the F-623A attach strip overlaps and
connects the two. But when I lay out the parts like this the
apex of the rib's 'triangle' doesn't line up with the similar
apex along the edge of the F-976 skin and the aft end of the
rib protrudes beyond the line joining the ends of the adjascent
ribs. It just doesn't look right. Furthermore the forward end
of the rib outboard flange is factory shaped such that it might
overlap on the inside of the flange of the F-705D bulkhead
verticle channel - a single rivet passing through the skin, the
bulkhead flange and then the rib flange. (Confused yet ? I am.)
The only solution I can see is to trim away part of the forward
web and inboard flange of the rib - but I don't see any note of
this in the plans or instructions. Anyone got any insight into
this ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV7-List: F-623 Baggage Compt Corner Ribs |
Gerry:
I just did the same part the other day and that joggle confused me because
it suggests the flange fits inside the bulkhead flange. But if you do that,
you can't get the edge of the corner rib to line up flush with the bottom
skin, although I have seen some Web sites that have suggested cutting aroudn
etc.
Don't bother.
Hack it off. The two flanges, the web,etc whee it meets the flange of the
side of the bulkhead and the top. Front and back (I left the back intact
until we mated the center and aft section on Thursday and then it was much
easier to see why you have to do the same to the rear section.
It takes awhile to see this on the plans. They really needed a zoomed-in
overhead shot here.
Disclaimer: I see you posted this to both the 9 and 7 groups. I'm building a
7. I have no idea if the situation is the same with the 9.
Bob
St. Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV7-List: F-623 Baggage Compt Corner Ribs
--> RV7-List message posted by: Gerry Filby
Scratchin' my head once again ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and what outside
and inside diameter it should be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
----- Original Message -----
From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
> Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and what
> outside and inside diameter it should be?
>
From Van's Accessories Catalog. Nylon corrugated tube. 0.810" OD. Duct
NT5/8, 25 or 50ft rolls. Use 3/4" dia holes.
Tom C
RV9 N793JT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I used the Van's stuff too - but I found the corrugation
annoying to work with - isn't there a white non-corrugated type
available from somewhere ? And why is it corrugated - what's
the benefit ?
g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
>
> >
> > Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and what
> > outside and inside diameter it should be?
> >
>
> From Van's Accessories Catalog. Nylon corrugated tube. 0.810" OD. Duct
> NT5/8, 25 or 50ft rolls. Use 3/4" dia holes.
> Tom C
> RV9 N793JT (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
Tom,
For what it's worth I bought enough of the conduit for both wings and the
fuselage and then had a change of heart and got the snap bushings instead.
Figured it would be an easier installation, easier to add stuff later, and
didn't require making nice 3/4 inch holes. I've got two of them in each rib
to be sure I'll have enough capacity for whatever I decide to run. Plus my
RV7A neighbor did the same thing. We both now have 50 feet of conduit
sitting around. If you leave near me come by and I'll give you mine.
Bill
Albion, Maine - Having fun with wing tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
>
> >
> > Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and
what
> > outside and inside diameter it should be?
> >
>
> From Van's Accessories Catalog. Nylon corrugated tube. 0.810" OD. Duct
> NT5/8, 25 or 50ft rolls. Use 3/4" dia holes.
> Tom C
> RV9 N793JT (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Hagerty" <chagerty(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
I'm using a clear non-corrugated 1/2" plastic water line pipe from Home
Depot. You can put the supplied bushing in the hole and this stuff slides
easily (with a little lubrication) through the bushing. Double protection
and light weight.
Chuck Hagerty
RV-7A finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
>
> I used the Van's stuff too - but I found the corrugation
> annoying to work with - isn't there a white non-corrugated type
> available from somewhere ? And why is it corrugated - what's
> the benefit ?
>
> g
>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and
>> > what
>> > outside and inside diameter it should be?
>> >
>>
>> From Van's Accessories Catalog. Nylon corrugated tube. 0.810" OD. Duct
>> NT5/8, 25 or 50ft rolls. Use 3/4" dia holes.
>> Tom C
>> RV9 N793JT (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
Here <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html> is a
suggestion from a fellow RV-10 builder. He is using optical fiber plenum.
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
Waiting on QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
D.Munz wrote:
>
>Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and what outside
and inside diameter it should be?
>
Here are a few untested ideas I'm considering.
AL flashing from the bldg supply rolled into a tube & 'glued' in the holes
Same thing out of plastic sheet
Ripstop nylon sewn into a tube
The goal for me is minimum weight & maximizing space in the conduit for
wires. The electrical & fiber conduit I've been able to find is fairly
thick & quite a bit heavier than any of the above will be but will be a
lot less work.
Grommets by themselves will allow the wire to move a bit more & probably
rub on either the skin or spar. Might be a wear issue after a few
thousand hours of flying.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
This stuff looks good but how would I get my hands on 40'? It looks like the
minimum order is 1000'.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
> Here <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html> is a
> suggestion from a fellow RV-10 builder. He is using optical fiber plenum.
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> Waiting on QB Wings
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WD-409 ... where to powder coat ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
0.25 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
0.74 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.40 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
(WD-409 tail wheel spring mount)
Seems like folks used to get this ready coated from Vans ...
mine's bare metal - Oh Well. But on the upside - its
pre-drilled to the spring, which seems to be a new thing ...
Any recommendations on where I can get this puppy coated in the
SF Bay Area ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
Gerry, the corrugated wing conduit can be stretched, thus making it smaller in
diameter. So
if you drill holes through the wing ribs of the diameter of the conduit between
the raised areas
then stretch it (takes two people), you'll find when you release it that it stays
put.
That's what I did on my Rv-8A, on my 8 I just routed wires and stuff through the
tooling
holes in the ribs and secured 'em with small tie wraps. Much easier ...........
Walt Shipley
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing conduit
I used the Van's stuff too - but I found the corrugation
annoying to work with - isn't there a white non-corrugated type
available from somewhere ? And why is it corrugated - what's
the benefit ?
g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: Wing conduit
>
>
> >
> > Will anyone tell me where to buy the wiring conduit for the wings and what
> > outside and inside diameter it should be?
> >
>
> From Van's Accessories Catalog. Nylon corrugated tube. 0.810" OD. Duct
> NT5/8, 25 or 50ft rolls. Use 3/4" dia holes.
> Tom C
> RV9 N793JT (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
| Subject: | Brake line toque |
What is the recommended torque for the ferrel nuts that connect the high pressure
line to the master cylinders? Already searched archives. Randy RV9A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Brake line toque |
0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are non-standard
Randy,
I didn't see anyone reply to your message.... from what I've read/seen,
there is no torque value for the AN fittings. You tighten it until it
doesn't leak. :-) I've hard just past hand tight is enough but don't quote
me on that.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Brake line toque |
Hi Matt,
I had a lot of trouble with leaks on my brake lines.
On the advice of a freind I used teflon tape which
cured the leaks but since then I have been told this
is a totally wrong thing to do. Cy Galley told us
that teflon works until you need to undo a fitting and
then it gets into the system and clogs it up. So far
I'm OK.
Denis Thomas
--- Matthew Brandes wrote:
>
>
> Randy,
>
> I didn't see anyone reply to your message.... from
> what I've read/seen,
> there is no torque value for the AN fittings. You
> tighten it until it
> doesn't leak. :-) I've hard just past hand tight is
> enough but don't quote
> me on that.
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> #90569
> <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1329 President
> EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Brake line toque |
Hi Matt,
I had a lot of trouble with leaks on my brake lines.
On the advice of a freind I used teflon tape which
cured the leaks but since then I have been told this
is a totally wrong thing to do. Cy Galley told us
that teflon works until you need to undo a fitting and
then it gets into the system and clogs it up. So far
I'm OK.
Denis Thomas
--- Matthew Brandes wrote:
>
>
> Randy,
>
> I didn't see anyone reply to your message.... from
> what I've read/seen,
> there is no torque value for the AN fittings. You
> tighten it until it
> doesn't leak. :-) I've hard just past hand tight is
> enough but don't quote
> me on that.
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> #90569
> <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1329 President
> EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Not happy with the trailing edges |
My elevator trailing edges are structuraly sound but I dont think they look good.
Would it effect flight characteristics a great deal if I used epoxy or the
like to fill in the gaps and make the trailing edge and the bottom rivets smooth
before painting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Not happy with the trailing edges |
I don't think flight characteristis will be affected but airplane value
will be decreased. This is not a corvette, what you have is an aircraft
elevator built IAW Vans instructions and acceptable practices and
procedures. Unless you're a world renowned expert don't argue with
success.
My 2 cents for what it's worth....A&P for 29 years.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of D.Munz
Subject: RV9-List: Not happy with the trailing edges
My elevator trailing edges are structuraly sound but I dont think they
look good. Would it effect flight characteristics a great deal if I used
epoxy or the like to fill in the gaps and make the trailing edge and the
bottom rivets smooth before painting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Not happy with the trailing edges |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I used T-88 (epoxy) from Aircraft Spruce instead of Pro-Seal in
all my trailing edges - you should be fine ...
g
>
>
> My elevator trailing edges are structuraly sound but I dont
> think they look good. Would it effect flight characteristics a
> great deal if I used epoxy or the like to fill in the gaps and
> make the trailing edge and the bottom rivets smooth before
> painting?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | U-813D Allen Screw rubbing tire warning |
0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are non-standard
I was attaching the U-813D forward nose wheel pant brackets last night on
the WD-630 nose wheel weldment and noticed that the allen screw came within
.032" of actually rubbing on the tire! I emailed Van's and they said to
stick a couple more washers on it or grind down the screw.
Just something to watch for... a blown tire could lead to bad things
happening.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Engine/Electrical/Fiberglass)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert watson <bob1629r(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Not happy with the trailing edges |
use pro-seal then file squair did that to mine looks great.
-----Original Message-----
From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Not happy with the trailing edges
My elevator trailing edges are structuraly sound but I dont think they look good.
Would it effect flight characteristics a great deal if I used epoxy or the
like to fill in the gaps and make the trailing edge and the bottom rivets smooth
before painting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List
Subject: Leveling RV6-A Fuselage
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
"'DellAngelo, Scott M'" ,
"'Brian Meyette'"
| Subject: | Bad instructions for nosewheel pant construction |
I've recently been working on the wheelpants and finally managed to finish
them this past weekend besides sanding/finishing them. I ran into a problem
with the nosehweel that I thought I'd pass along. (Long winded...)
We all know how bad the instructions get by the time you get to the
fuselage. For some reason, I decided to follow the instructions when
constructing the nosewheel pant. The instructions note that there are
'dimples' in the back half of the pant that mark the axle bolt centerline.
You drill these two dimples out to 3/8" and then attached the U-813 bracket.
So I checked my pant and sure enough, there were two small dimples. So I
blindly make the aft wheel pant and get it mounted on the nose. Then I
start trying to fit the front cap, only to run into problems. No matter how
I positioned the wheel pant, it would rub on something. Either the WD-631
stop or the nose fork itself. Dag nabbit! I looked at the plans and looked
at my wheel pant and it seemed like it was positioned correctly for the most
part.. but it was lopsided a bit and appeared to be a bit too far aft.
I fired off an email to Van's (no reply yet) and also to Jerry T. who I knew
had recently done his. His reply: "Use the dimensions on the print, not any
'dimples' you may have found. I had the same problem until I checked the
print dimensions." So I looked at the plans and noted the 16" dimension
from the aft edge to the center of the axle bolt hole. Mine measured about
16 1/4" and the height of the holes along the side were about 1/8"
different, causing the lopsided look. Since a new wheel pant would be $100,
I attempted and successfully patched all the holes I made and drilled new
ones using the plan dimensions.
They came about better this time. Although I still think the aft half could
have come forward more since I was not able to get the 6 13/16" dimension
for the height of the aft end without it rubbing. I had to push it down
farther.
So be warned.... don't follow the instructions in this area.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
#90569
http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bad instructions for nosewheel pant construction |
Great news I had the same issue on my 7A. When all is said and done you may
need a new ring clamp to hold the leg fairing in place. I get a gentle rub at
full turn of the wheel. I also noticed the clamp is visible so I made a
fairing on the from cap to hide it. Wait till you get to the baffle install.
These plans are written in crayon.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kelly <mmpi(at)missionmedia.org> |
| Subject: | Gear fairing clamp: was: Bad instructions for nosewheel pant |
construction
Just as a question (I'm getting real close to doing the fiberglass,) has
anyone tried the safety wire type clamp on the gear leg fairing? I made
one of the clamp-makers after seeing one at Oshkosh last year. It clamps
as good as any hose clamp and of course they are very light and
inexpensive, once you have the machine. Since they don't stick up at all,
I would think they would work really well in this application, but I
haven't tried them on fiberglass. Putting them on takes some space for the
machine, but I doubt if this is an issue. Two or three double loops should
hold anything.
If you haaven't seen one of these devices, I found one at
http://www.gemplers.com/a/shop/product.asp?T1=HC8&src=21TL002
Bob Kelly
On 06/21/05, Sargentclt(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> Great news I had the same issue on my 7A. When all is said and done you
> may need a new ring clamp to hold the leg fairing in place. I get a gentle
> rub at full turn of the wheel. I also noticed the clamp is visible so I
> made a fairing on the from cap to hide it. Wait till you get to the baffle
> install. These plans are written in crayon.
>
> Tad Sargent
> Sargentclt(at)CS.com
> RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Regards
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Gear fairing clamp: was: Bad instructions for nosewheel |
pant
Bob,
It would be interesting to try this but I'm wondering how well it would work
in this application since the two pieces it is clamping are hard surface.
This probably works great for rubber houses that will compress. I think
there is a chance that the faring would rotate a bit using this. Dunno...
but you're right.. it wouldn't take up much space.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
"RV10 Group" ,
| Subject: | Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers |
Fellow builders,
Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing it in the
hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from experiencing my blunder
this morning.
I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and educate. This
may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters, beautiful
sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying weather makes this
state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another story.
At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The morning sun
is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door faces east). The temperature
is rising and I know I only have about an hour to setup and spray my primer
before Mother Nature forces me to quit for the day; I spray my primer outside
like many RV builders. You might be asking yourself why not primer late in
the day when the sun is going down or at least in the shade? Midday the temperature
is over 100, by late afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot to spray.
At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before it reaches
the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the parts is a bit too high.
In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy while the mornings are pretty
calm. The mornings are the only option for me this time of year.
I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes (painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and prep
many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same time-more efficient
I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or more of the fuselage components
(excluding the skins) ready for primer painting. That is a very large
number of parts. It has taken a lot of time to clean and prep all these parts,
I started weeks back.
I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used a wash primer
but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very similar to the
Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was no longer available.
I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I used it on the empennage and
wings, but I was never happy with the results. Spitting chunks was a big problem.
I never had that problem with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When
I built my RV-4 I sprayed my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very
simple siphon gun that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used
disposable 16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the SW wash
primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of my RV-7A project.
And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun (HVLP) to apply it.
Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded story.
Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had several 16 oz
cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have been using them for
mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun cup. These cups are wax-coated
paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20 years old. These cups did the job,
but I was running out of them. They seemed to be the "perfect" size for the amount
of primer I was mixing.
A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant difference
between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30 minute induction time.
This means you mix the two components and wait 30 minutes before spraying.
This gives the two components time to react with each other. The results were
great. I only had a short time to spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of
the new gun and primer to help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the morning
the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see through my goggles
well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the group were well coated
and it was time to cleanup. One more early morning primer session and all the
parts would be coated, then on to assembly, the fun stuff. So this morning I
would finish the job.
Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now it was time
to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker Workmate (if you never
used one, they are great tool to have around the shop-one of my most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect it from
any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The Workmate was
in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and sunlight.
I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped around weeks
earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper cups available
in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable plastic cups. So I
bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper but I needed the larger cup
size.
Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches of primer
(14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a few other things
in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30 minutes) to pass.
After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the primer. I noticed one of the cups
was "sagging" a bit.
Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I knew what
was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to rupture. Just as
I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None of the primer made it
into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best primer was now on the floor and
covering the base of the Workmate (the plastic covering the surface didn't extend
all the way down to the base). But I knew this was just the beginning. Within
seconds, the second cup dissolved before I could get the trashcan under it
and more epoxy made it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated
with an epoxy (two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather large
epoxy mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also dissolve
my epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of acetone filled the air.
All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused and my Workmate
base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military duty. I have
wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again. Hopefully next Friday
I will have everything rapped up.
The moral of the story is:
When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers |
Thanks for the entertaining and well written post. I just had to laugh
as the story played out. I am not laughing at you but rather with you.
Because in situations like that that is all you can do. No one was hurt
and your workmate now has a little olive drab character.
Thanks for the advice
Larry Rosen
Merems wrote:
>
>Fellow builders,
>
>Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing it in
the hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from experiencing my blunder
this morning.
>
>I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and educate. This
may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
>
>Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters, beautiful
sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying weather makes this
state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another story.
>
>At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The morning sun
is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door faces east). The temperature
is rising and I know I only have about an hour to setup and spray my primer
before Mother Nature forces me to quit for the day; I spray my primer outside
like many RV builders. You might be asking yourself why not primer late
in the day when the sun is going down or at least in the shade? Midday the temperature
is over 100, by late afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot to spray.
At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before it reaches
the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the parts is a bit too high.
In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy while the mornings are pretty
calm. The mornings are the only option for me this time of year.
>
>I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes (painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and prep
many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same time-more efficient
I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or more of the fuselage components
(excluding the skins) ready for primer painting. That is a very large
number of parts. It has taken a lot of time to clean and prep all these parts,
I started weeks back.
>
>I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used a wash
primer but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very similar to the
Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was no longer available.
I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I used it on the empennage
and wings, but I was never happy with the results. Spitting chunks was a big problem.
I never had that problem with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When
I built my RV-4 I sprayed my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very
simple siphon gun that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used
disposable 16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
>
>As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the SW wash
primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of my RV-7A project.
And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun (HVLP) to apply it.
>
>Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded story.
>
>Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had several 16
oz cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have been using them for
mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun cup. These cups are wax-coated
paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20 years old. These cups did the job,
but I was running out of them. They seemed to be the "perfect" size for the amount
of primer I was mixing.
>
>A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant difference
between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30 minute induction time.
This means you mix the two components and wait 30 minutes before spraying.
This gives the two components time to react with each other. The results were
great. I only had a short time to spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of
the new gun and primer to help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
>
>Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the morning
the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see through my goggles
well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the group were well coated
and it was time to cleanup. One more early morning primer session and all the
parts would be coated, then on to assembly, the fun stuff. So this morning I
would finish the job.
>
>Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now it was time
to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker Workmate (if you never
used one, they are great tool to have around the shop-one of my most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect it from
any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The Workmate was
in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and sunlight.
>
>I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped around weeks
earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper cups available
in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable plastic cups. So I
bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper but I needed the larger
cup size.
>
>Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches of primer
(14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a few other
things in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30 minutes) to pass.
After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the primer. I noticed one of the
cups was "sagging" a bit.
>
>Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I knew what
was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to rupture. Just
as I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None of the primer made it
into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best primer was now on the floor and
covering the base of the Workmate (the plastic covering the surface didn't extend
all the way down to the base). But I knew this was just the beginning. Within
seconds, the second cup dissolved before I could get the trashcan under
it and more epoxy made it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated
with an epoxy (two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather large
epoxy mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also dissolve
my epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of acetone filled the
air.
>
>All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused and my Workmate
base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military duty. I have
wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again. Hopefully next Friday
I will have everything rapped up.
>
>The moral of the story is:
>
>When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers G-IINI |
Power % TAS (mph) TAS (Knts) Pressure Alt Manifold RPM
Run 4 74.7 184 160 8000 22.3 2560
Run 3 66.0 171 149 8000 21.2 2440
Run 2 71.4 169 147 5000 23 2440
Run 1 61.6 155 135 3200 21 2430
0.869
Note: 150HP O-320
I thought all you builders might like to see some flight test data...above. Its from G-IINI #90360. The TAS are calculated by the method shown at http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/ssec.html . In summary each run is three runs to work out the wind effect, with data recorded from the GPS.
The prop is a two blade c/s electric MT.
Our flight testing showed that at 74.7% power, 8000feet we were doing 184mph (or
160Knts). Since VANS quote 172mph on 135 hp and 186mph on 160 at 75% I feel
G-IINI is performing as advertised.
Keep riveting, Steve.
#90360, G-IINI
PS Gus my performance issues are all about ASI errors which I have not yet sorted.
I am very suspicious of the drain holes in the Dynon pitot head.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as to the amount
of working hours until the wings are final attached so I can sort out timing
for hangar rental. Any suggestions welcome
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator horn alignment |
| From: | "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com> |
My RV9A instructions say to clamp the powder coated elevator horn in
place and align it with the centerline of the elevator spar before
drilling it to the spar and to the inboard rib.
Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this alignment?
Thanks for your help.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/05 |
| From: | "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com> |
Thanks for the good story. And this could very well save me from a
similar fate. I hate to paint and I sometimes do a less than
professional analysis of things like this.
Dave Allen, RV9A empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: RV9-List Digest Server [mailto:rv9-list-digest(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/05
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
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---
Total Messages Posted Sun 06/26/05: 2
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:11 PM - Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers (Merems)
2. 07:03 PM - Re: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers (Larry
Rosen)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
"RV10 Group" ,
Subject: RV9-List: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers
Fellow builders,
Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing
it in the hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from
experiencing my blunder this morning.
I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and
educate. This may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters,
beautiful sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying
weather makes this state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another
story.
At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The
morning sun is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door
faces east). The temperature is rising and I know I only have about an
hour to setup and spray my primer before Mother Nature forces me to quit
for the day; I spray my primer outside like many RV builders. You might
be asking yourself why not primer late in the day when the sun is going
down or at least in the shade? Midday the temperature is over 100, by
late afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot
to spray. At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before
it reaches the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the
parts is a bit too high. In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy
while the mornings are pretty calm. The mornings are the only option for
me this time of year.
I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes
(painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and
prep many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same
time-more efficient I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or
more of the fuselage components (excluding the skins) ready for primer
painting. That is a very large number of parts. It has taken a lot of
time to clean and prep all these parts, I started weeks back.
I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used a
wash primer but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very
similar to the Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was
no longer available. I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I
used it on the empennage and wings, but I was never happy with the
results. Spitting chunks was a big problem. I never had that problem
with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When I built my RV-4 I sprayed
my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very simple siphon gun
that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used disposable
16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the
SW wash primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of
my RV-7A project. And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun
(HVLP) to apply it.
Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded story.
Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had
several 16 oz cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have
been using them for mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun
cup. These cups are wax-coated paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20
years old. These cups did the job, but I was running out of them. They
seemed to be the "perfect" size for the amount of primer I was mixing.
A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant
difference between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30
minute induction time. This means you mix the two components and wait 30
minutes before spraying. This gives the two components time to react
with each other. The results were great. I only had a short time to
spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of the new gun and primer to
help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the
morning the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see
through my goggles well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the
group were well coated and it was time to cleanup. One more early
morning primer session and all the parts would be coated, then on to
assembly, the fun stuff. So this morning I would finish the job.
Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now it
was time to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker
Workmate (if you never used one, they are great tool to have around the
shop-one of my most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect
it from any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The
Workmate was in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and
sunlight.
I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped around
weeks earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper
cups available in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable
plastic cups. So I bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper
but I needed the larger cup size.
Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches of
primer (14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a
few other things in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30
minutes) to pass. After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the
primer. I noticed one of the cups was "sagging" a bit.
Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I
knew what was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to
rupture. Just as I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None
of the primer made it into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best
primer was now on the floor and covering the base of the Workmate (the
plastic covering the surface didn't extend all the way down to the
base). But I knew this was just the beginning. Within seconds, the
second cup dissolved before I could get the trashcan under it and more
epoxy made it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated with
an epoxy (two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather
large epoxy mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also
dissolve my epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of
acetone filled the air.
All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused and
my Workmate base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military
duty. I have wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again.
Hopefully next Friday I will have everything rapped up.
The moral of the story is:
When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers
Thanks for the entertaining and well written post. I just had to laugh
as the story played out. I am not laughing at you but rather with you.
Because in situations like that that is all you can do. No one was hurt
and your workmate now has a little olive drab character.
Thanks for the advice
Larry Rosen
Merems wrote:
>
>Fellow builders,
>
>Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing
>it in
the hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from experiencing my
blunder this morning.
>
>I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and
>educate. This
may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
>
>Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters,
>beautiful
sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying weather makes
this state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another story.
>
>At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The
>morning sun
is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door faces east). The
temperature is rising and I know I only have about an hour to setup and
spray my primer before Mother Nature forces me to quit for the day; I
spray my primer outside like many RV builders. You might be asking
yourself why not primer late in the day when the sun is going down or at
least in the shade? Midday the temperature is over 100, by late
afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot
to spray. At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before
it reaches the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the
parts is a bit too high. In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy
while the mornings are pretty calm. The mornings are the only option for
me this time of year.
>
>I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes
>(painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and
prep many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same
time-more efficient I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or
more of the fuselage components (excluding the skins) ready for primer
painting. That is a very large number of parts. It has taken a lot of
time to clean and prep all these parts, I started weeks back.
>
>I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used
>a wash
primer but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very
similar to the Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was
no longer available. I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I
used it on the empennage and wings, but I was never happy with the
results. Spitting chunks was a big problem. I never had that problem
with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When I built my RV-4 I sprayed
my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very simple siphon gun
that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used disposable
16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
>
>As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the
>SW wash
primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of my RV-7A
project. And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun (HVLP)
to apply it.
>
>Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded
>story.
>
>Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had
>several 16
oz cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have been using
them for mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun cup. These
cups are wax-coated paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20 years old.
These cups did the job, but I was running out of them. They seemed to be
the "perfect" size for the amount of primer I was mixing.
>
>A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant
>difference
between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30 minute
induction time. This means you mix the two components and wait 30
minutes before spraying. This gives the two components time to react
with each other. The results were great. I only had a short time to
spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of the new gun and primer to
help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
>
>Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the
>morning
the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see through my
goggles well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the group were
well coated and it was time to cleanup. One more early morning primer
session and all the parts would be coated, then on to assembly, the fun
stuff. So this morning I would finish the job.
>
>Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now
>it was time
to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker Workmate (if you
never used one, they are great tool to have around the shop-one of my
most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect
it from any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The
Workmate was in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and
sunlight.
>
>I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped
>around weeks
earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper cups
available in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable
plastic cups. So I bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper
but I needed the larger cup size.
>
>Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches
>of primer
(14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a few
other things in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30
minutes) to pass. After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the
primer. I noticed one of the cups was "sagging" a bit.
>
>Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I
>knew what
was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to rupture.
Just as I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None of the
primer made it into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best primer was
now on the floor and covering the base of the Workmate (the plastic
covering the surface didn't extend all the way down to the base). But I
knew this was just the beginning. Within seconds, the second cup
dissolved before I could get the trashcan under it and more epoxy made
it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated with an epoxy
(two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather large epoxy
mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also dissolve my
epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of acetone filled the
air.
>
>All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused
>and my Workmate
base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military duty. I have
wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again. Hopefully
next Friday I will have everything rapped up.
>
>The moral of the story is:
>
>When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn alignment |
My elevator spars were pre-drilled for the horns. Unless you have a very
old kit I expect yours are too. With the holes already there it turns out
to be pretty easy.
Bill,
Now doing wing tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator horn alignment
>
> My RV9A instructions say to clamp the powder coated elevator horn in
> place and align it with the centerline of the elevator spar before
> drilling it to the spar and to the inboard rib.
>
> Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this alignment?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn alignment |
Mine weren't predrilled but the alignment wasn't critical. I think the
important thing is to make both sides the same. Small differences are taken
care of when you align the elevators and then drill the holes that connect
them to each other and the elevator push/pull tube.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV 500 hours
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of EXT-Allen, David
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator horn alignment
My RV9A instructions say to clamp the powder coated elevator horn in
place and align it with the centerline of the elevator spar before
drilling it to the spar and to the inboard rib.
Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this alignment?
Thanks for your help.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rluck" <rluck(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Fire Extinguisher installation |
What's the consensus on the best location to mount a small 2# Fire Extinguisher
in the RV9 cockpit? Mine is about
3 1/2" in diameter and about 12" long.
Rick Luck
N109RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fire Extinguisher installation |
Mount it on the floor, behind the co-pilot seat, (poprivets) just in front
of the flap actuator on the angled portion of the floor. You can reach it
easily from the pilot's seat and it won't be in the way otherwise. Your
oxygen cylinder will go easily on the aft side of the flap support column on
the centerline. Don't put it anywhere forward since it will always be in
the way.
Mike Holland
N192MH
----- Original Message -----
From: "rluck" <rluck(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fire Extinguisher installation
>
> What's the consensus on the best location to mount a small 2# Fire
> Extinguisher in the RV9 cockpit? Mine is about
> 3 1/2" in diameter and about 12" long.
>
> Rick Luck
> N109RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: 3/32 clecos |
I'm just starting a RV-10 kit and find I need additional silver clecos. If
anyone has 1 or 2 hundred for sale, I'm interested.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: 3/32 clecos |
Albert,
I found that Brown has the best prices on clecos & if you spend $85 or more
they ship for free. In fact, last time we ordered about 300 clecos, they
gave us a volume discount of a few cents each. I think they came in at
$.32 each.
Richard Scott
RV-9A
Wings
At 12:41 PM 7/2/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>I'm just starting a RV-10 kit and find I need additional silver clecos. If
>anyone has 1 or 2 hundred for sale, I'm interested.
>Albert Gardner
>RV-9A N872RV
>Yuma, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: 3/32 clecos |
I purchased some used clecos fro www.contrysidewalk.com look in the tool
shed. Here is the specific link
<http://www.countrysidewalk.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=C&Category_Code=TSUTCL>They
are $0.25 each. Used but in my experience they are in good condition.
Watch out for the shipping charge. It could make the new ones from
brown tool more attractive.
Larry Rosen
Richard Scott wrote:
>
>Albert,
>
>I found that Brown has the best prices on clecos & if you spend $85 or more
>they ship for free. In fact, last time we ordered about 300 clecos, they
>gave us a volume discount of a few cents each. I think they came in at
>$.32 each.
>
>Richard Scott
>RV-9A
>Wings
>
>At 12:41 PM 7/2/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm just starting a RV-10 kit and find I need additional silver clecos. If
>>anyone has 1 or 2 hundred for sale, I'm interested.
>>Albert Gardner
>>RV-9A N872RV
>>Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More |
Hi Everyone,
With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable
Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses
and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything
from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc.
Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and
"Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS,
Flightcom and many others at the very best prices.
Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone
interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here.
http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm
All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship
free via UPS GROUND.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
> This Information comes from my own research which I
did for
> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies
to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the
3th printing.
>
> --------------- ------------- ------------
>
> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
> building time, by using the comprehensive
>
> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum
> and
> Composite Aircraft"
>
> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by
> me,
> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the
> latest, practical information - summarized and
> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs,
> etc.
> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M,
> etc.
>
> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
> Considerations
> * Corrosion Control
> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
> and painting problems
> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
> Paints
> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
> Steel and Aluminum
> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
> Enamel
> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
> Enamel Types
> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
> * Selecting a Paint Shop
> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
> compatibility
> * Paint Booths and their Construction
> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
> numbers, Application Notes
>
> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in
> order
> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's"
> and
> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration.
>
> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the
> US) to:
> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
> 58 Village Parkway
> Santa Monica, CA. 90405
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
"RV10 Group" ,
| Subject: | DRDT-2 dimpling tool at Oshkosh |
Fellow RV builders.
The DRDT-2 (www.experimentalaero.com) will be on display at the EAA sheet metal workshop and or the Avery Tool booth at Oshkosh. I will be at AirVenture from Monday through Saturday. Stop by and give the DRDT-2 a test drive.
For those of you who already own one, I'd enjoy meeting you so stop by and say
hi.
Paul Merems
ExperimentalAero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Needed: Ride home from Osh on Sunday to Kansas City |
I've managed to get a ride up to Osh on Thursday so now I'm trying to find a
ride home on Sunday. If anyone has an open seat coming back on Sunday, and
it going south somewhere near Kansas City (any Texans?), I'd love to hitch a
ride. You can catch me via email or on cellphone at 913-706-3087.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine decision time ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
0.25 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
0.74 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.40 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
Fellow builders,
Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
be most welcome :)
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
The reason for not exceeding 160hp is that the airframe isn't designed
for it and can't handle it long-term. I have read accounts from those
who have used 360s finding stress cracks in the tail after several
hundred hours. You would be wise to listen to the factory
recommendations on this issue.
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Fellow builders,
>
>Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
>put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
>conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
>like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
>much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
>recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
>possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
>
>I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
>performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
>purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
>cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
>my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
>Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
>coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
>- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>
>Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
>be most welcome :)
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Thanks for your response Paul,
I'm guessing that's because the tail for the 9 is larger than
the 7 therefore greater twisting forces are possible - do you
know by chance where the cracks appeared ?
g
>
>
> The reason for not exceeding 160hp is that the airframe isn't designed
> for it and can't handle it long-term. I have read accounts from those
> who have used 360s finding stress cracks in the tail after several
> hundred hours. You would be wise to listen to the factory
> recommendations on this issue.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Fellow builders,
> >
> >Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
> >put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
> >conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
> >like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
> >much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
> >recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
> >possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
> >
> >I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
> >performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
> >purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
> >cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
> >my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
> >Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
> >coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
> >- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
> >
> >Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
> >be most welcome :)
> >
> >__g__
> >
> >==========================================================
> >Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
I do not recall where the cracks were, other than "tail" - I remember
that that particular account caused me to rule out a 360 entirely.
I believe there's more to it than the larger tail, too - the metal is
thinner in some cases on the 9.
Hey, you'll burn quite a bit less gas with a 320 anyway. And the
difference in cruise speed is quite minimal.
~Paul 9A #1176
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Thanks for your response Paul,
>
>I'm guessing that's because the tail for the 9 is larger than
>the 7 therefore greater twisting forces are possible - do you
>know by chance where the cracks appeared ?
>
>g
>
>
>
>>
>>The reason for not exceeding 160hp is that the airframe isn't designed
>>for it and can't handle it long-term. I have read accounts from those
>>who have used 360s finding stress cracks in the tail after several
>>hundred hours. You would be wise to listen to the factory
>>recommendations on this issue.
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Fellow builders,
>>>
>>>Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
>>>put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
>>>conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
>>>like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
>>>much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
>>>recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
>>>possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
>>>
>>>I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
>>>performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
>>>purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
>>>cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
>>>my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
>>>Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
>>>coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
>>>- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>>>
>>>Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
>>>be most welcome :)
>>>
>>>__g__
>>>
>>>==========================================================
>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Disher" <jdisher(at)intergate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
I too looked hard at engine size, mainly because I favored the 360. But the
tail differences, stories about cracks and the spar "stub" that is
sandwiched into the fuselage being so much smaller than the RV 6, and Vans
recommendation is enough for me.
I just can' imagine what the feeling would be in those last final seconds
after the plane started coming apart at 8000 feet as you started telling
yourself, "Van really knows best".
John Disher,
last 10% taking 90%
-------Original Message-------
From: Gerry Filby
Date: 08/05/05 14:55:47
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Engine decision time ...
Thanks for your response Paul,
I'm guessing that's because the tail for the 9 is larger than
the 7 therefore greater twisting forces are possible - do you
know by chance where the cracks appeared ?
g
>
>
> The reason for not exceeding 160hp is that the airframe isn't designed
> for it and can't handle it long-term. I have read accounts from those
> who have used 360s finding stress cracks in the tail after several
> hundred hours. You would be wise to listen to the factory
> recommendations on this issue.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Fellow builders,
> >
> >Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
> >put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
> >conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
> >like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
> >much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
> >recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
> >possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
> >
> >I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
> >performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
> >purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
> >cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
> >my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
> >Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
> >coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
> >- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
> >
> >Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
> >be most welcome :)
> >
> >__g__
> >
> >
> >Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
__g__
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
Hi Gerry. I would think seriously about putting more
than 160 HP in your 9. The empennage and wings very
different from the 7.
Your in SF? Come down to Watsonville and fly my 9.
It only has 150 HP and I can usually eak out 190 MPH.
I don't do it other than very short test because it
redlines the prop.
--- Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what
> engine to
> put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule
> out the auto
> conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I
> could use a
> like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage
> is pretty
> much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I
> know Van's
> recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably
> to limit the
> possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc
> etc.
>
> I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are
> getting max
> performance as advertised with the 320 and thus
> there's no
> purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is
> fastest possible
> cruise for frequent trips up and down the California
> coast from
> my home base in San Francisco to destinations like
> LA, San
> Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional
> coast to
> coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a
> concern to me
> - I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>
> Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and
> musings will
> be most welcome :)
>
> __g__
>
>
==========================================================
>
> Gerry Filby
> gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
Gerry and gang....
The RV-7 now uses the same rudder as the -9. This was a change they made
about a year or more ago. The rudder cracking is usually along the trailing
edge of the rudder and is caused by the flexing near the ends of the
stiffeners on the skin. It is recommended that you proseal or glue the ends
of the stiffeners to the skin to keep the skin from flexing and developing
cracks. (Not to say that a larger engine isn't contributing to the
problem.. but RV-9's with O-320's also develop the problems.. ask Andy K.)
I fall in line with everyone else on the engine choice... stick with an
(I)O-320 as Van's recommends... get a 160hp if you want. All the numbers
I've seen have been close or right on with what Van's advertises. Besides..
do you really want to run near the top end speed all the time?? Are you
_really_ going to notice 5-10mph difference at the top end??
Just my $.05 worth
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Phew ! I used T-88 on my trailing edges so I'm hoping cracking
won't be something I have to deal with.
If folks are getting the performance with 160hp then, as you
say, it doesn't make sense to divert from the plans.
Thx
g
>
>
> Gerry and gang....
>
> The RV-7 now uses the same rudder as the -9. This was a change
> they made
> about a year or more ago. The rudder cracking is usually along
> the trailing
> edge of the rudder and is caused by the flexing near the ends of the
> stiffeners on the skin. It is recommended that you proseal or
> glue the ends
> of the stiffeners to the skin to keep the skin from flexing and
> developing
> cracks. (Not to say that a larger engine isn't contributing to the
> problem.. but RV-9's with O-320's also develop the problems..
> ask Andy K.)
>
> I fall in line with everyone else on the engine choice... stick with an
> (I)O-320 as Van's recommends... get a 160hp if you want. All
> the numbers
> I've seen have been close or right on with what Van's
> advertises. Besides..
> do you really want to run near the top end speed all the time?? Are you
> _really_ going to notice 5-10mph difference at the top end??
>
> Just my $.05 worth
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
> #90569
> http://www.n523rv.com
>
> EAA Chapter 1329 President
> EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
Let's see... spend 3000 hours to build an airplane that cruises 40 kt
faster than a 'spam can'.
If you fly 100 hrs per year in the RV, it would be about 130 hours to
cover the same distance in a '172. So you save 30 hours per year by
having an RV rather than a 172.
Break even is 100 years.
Putting an O-360 in might reduce the break-even to 95 years.
So let's not kid ourselves that we're building an airplane to save
time. We're building because we enjoy it, and flying an RV is a lot
more fun than flying a 172. It's a bonus to get where we are going
quickly and in style.
One bit of advice that I got was to install an oxygen system, fly high
to take advantage of favourable winds and weather and, save time that way.
Vern Little
RV-9A in fiberglass hell
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Thanks for your response Paul,
>
>I'm guessing that's because the tail for the 9 is larger than
>the 7 therefore greater twisting forces are possible - do you
>know by chance where the cracks appeared ?
>
>g
>
>
>
>>
>>The reason for not exceeding 160hp is that the airframe isn't designed
>>for it and can't handle it long-term. I have read accounts from those
>>who have used 360s finding stress cracks in the tail after several
>>hundred hours. You would be wise to listen to the factory
>>recommendations on this issue.
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Fellow builders,
>>>
>>>Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
>>>put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
>>>conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
>>>like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
>>>much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
>>>recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
>>>possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
>>>
>>>I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
>>>performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
>>>purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
>>>cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
>>>my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
>>>Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
>>>coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
>>>- I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>>>
>>>Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
>>>be most welcome :)
>>>
>>>__g__
>>>
>>>==========================================================
>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Paul,
I have chosen the IO 360 for my "9". The reason is I have the
option of using low compression pistons and using any type of gas as the
fuel situation becomes fluid.(?) The low comp. pistons give me 167 hp.
And I am using a fixed pitch prop (buying the engine with a solid crank
so I won't add a controable pitch later). This will not let me get over
160 hp on take off because of the high pitch required for the RV's. I
flight, at low altitudes, I will control my power to less than 75% to not
exceed the airframe requirements. However at altitude, where the hp
starts to run down, I will have the extra hp to keep it at the 160 hp
level. I am going to be using my "9" as a cross country bird as I live
in Florida and have relatives in the Ill. area and Louisiana area. I am
also retiring in three years and I want to travel back out west. The
extra hp will be available for the high country.
At this point, Mattituck is building my IO 360 in the standard
180 HP configuration with 2 "P" mags. This leaves me the option of low
compression pistons if the situation on gas in this country changes. I
want to keep flying even if I have to use car gas to do it.
Does this confuse you ? Took me a while to get here but I am
comfortable with the fact that I will have to watch my power. I have the
GRT EFIS system and monitoring power will be as simple as looking at the
engine power percentage readout.
Power at altitude was the determining issue. Now if I can get my
wife to consider Oxygen, I can go even higher and still get good speed.
Plus most of the flying will be against the wind as we leave Florida.
With the prevailing NW winds in this country, I will not watch the cars
match my speed on the ground. (done that and don't like it).
I'm at the wiring phase of my "9" with the canopy next.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Pete,
I'm in St.Petersburg. Actually Seminole which is a bit north
and west. We are south of Largo about 1/2 mile east of the coast.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Engine decision time ... |
I'll throw my $.02 in. On the Superior Air Parts XP 360 website they
have a position paper on why you can use "their" derated XP-360 in a
Vans RV-9. Why? They want you to buy their engine. Just remember -
higher HP = higher GPH!!
Personally, I will use a IO-320 clone. Also, in a RVator from several
issues back, Vans addressed the effect on Vne of carrying too much HP to
higher altitudes.
The fuse, verticle stabilizer and rudder are identical between the 7 & 9
series. The cracks were from the rivets on the stiffners on the rudder.
I have seen these same cracks on a RV-4 rudder, however on the 4 the
cracks were on the hinge end of the stiffners. My personal, uneducated
theory on the origin of the cracks is from work hardening the metal from
over "smacking" the dimpler on the skins and over driving the rivets on
the stiffners.
Ralph
RV9A wings, fuse in box
Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/06/05 |
It is true that it takes a certain amount of fuel to obtain a certain
horsepower. By limiting his power, he'll also be limiting his fuel right?!
Also, we're not talking about the difference between an RV and a Mig 15 that
burns 80 gals for a high speed pass down the runway here are we?!
Mark
www.4sierratango.com
>From: "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph(at)flash.net>
>Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine decision time ...
>
>
>I'll throw my $.02 in. On the Superior Air Parts XP 360 website they
>have a position paper on why you can use "their" derated XP-360 in a
>Vans RV-9. Why? They want you to buy their engine. Just remember -
>higher HP = higher GPH!!
>
>Personally, I will use a IO-320 clone. Also, in a RVator from several
>issues back, Vans addressed the effect on Vne of carrying too much HP to
>higher altitudes.
>
>The fuse, verticle stabilizer and rudder are identical between the 7 & 9
>series. The cracks were from the rivets on the stiffners on the rudder.
>I have seen these same cracks on a RV-4 rudder, however on the 4 the
>cracks were on the hinge end of the stiffners. My personal, uneducated
>theory on the origin of the cracks is from work hardening the metal from
>over "smacking" the dimpler on the skins and over driving the rivets on
>the stiffners.
>
>Ralph
>RV9A wings, fuse in box
>Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken" <4aero2plane(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/06/05 |
Mark
You are right, about 20,000 BTUs per pound of AV gas. If the volumetric
efficiency is the same, producing the same HP, the only extra fuel burn
would be from the increase in weight and friction difference of the larger
engine, maybe 1 percent. The really sad part is we only get about 30 - 40
percent efficiency. This is where the auto conversion people can point and
laugh at us using a Lycosaur. We lose about 40 - 45 percent out the exhaust
and 15 to 20 percent in cooling, and 5 - 10 percent to friction. So their
turbo charged water cooled engines are much better in that respect.
At least for me the stupid human variable that burns more fuel, I tend to
want to push the throttle a little more, go a little faster....hey it's only
75%. Maybe instead of looking at an O-320 or O-360 I should start looking
for that 118 hp engine vans gives specs on...
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor
Subject: RV9-List: RE: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/06/05
It is true that it takes a certain amount of fuel to obtain a certain
horsepower. By limiting his power, he'll also be limiting his fuel right?!
Also, we're not talking about the difference between an RV and a Mig 15 that
burns 80 gals for a high speed pass down the runway here are we?!
Mark
www.4sierratango.com
>From: "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph(at)flash.net>
>Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine decision time ...
>
>
>I'll throw my $.02 in. On the Superior Air Parts XP 360 website they
>have a position paper on why you can use "their" derated XP-360 in a
>Vans RV-9. Why? They want you to buy their engine. Just remember -
>higher HP = higher GPH!!
>
>Personally, I will use a IO-320 clone. Also, in a RVator from several
>issues back, Vans addressed the effect on Vne of carrying too much HP to
>higher altitudes.
>
>The fuse, verticle stabilizer and rudder are identical between the 7 & 9
>series. The cracks were from the rivets on the stiffners on the rudder.
>I have seen these same cracks on a RV-4 rudder, however on the 4 the
>cracks were on the hinge end of the stiffners. My personal, uneducated
>theory on the origin of the cracks is from work hardening the metal from
>over "smacking" the dimpler on the skins and over driving the rivets on
>the stiffners.
>
>Ralph
>RV9A wings, fuse in box
>Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine decision time ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Thanks to all of you for your helpful posts - lots of food for
thought !
g
>
>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
> put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
> conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
> like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
> much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
> recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
> possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
>
> I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
> performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
> purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
> cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
> my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
> Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
> coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
> - I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>
> Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
> be most welcome :)
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gregory Richardson <rv9flyer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time ... |
Gerry,
I tried to stay out of this, cause it's kinda like which came first, the chicken
or the egg. I however began working out numbers one day, which I think you
should really do prior to deciding on either engine. I spoke unofficially to
Van's staff at Oshkosh, and found that IF you really derate the 360 to 160 horses,
they really don't think it will hurt. I approached this from the standpoint
of 320's becomming somewhat hard to come by, however Lycosaur just released
a 320 experimental version just like the experimental 360, and should prove
to inject more engines into the masses. I personally am going to go ahead and
install an O-320 and inject it, for the following reasons. It has a tried and
proven fuel burn of 8.5 gph, versus whatever I end up with in the IO360, I don't
have to sweat the bigger engine at 10,000', and redline is redline. I would
urge you to work out the same problem that I did on your trusty E6B, and see
where it leaves you for your trip lengths. I once
compared a Spamcan 172 at 120 kts, to a Piper turbo Dakota at 145kts. I found
that on a trip length of 500 miles, I would arrive a sum total of 43 minutes
faster, but burn 15 gallons more fuel. Now we all pride ourselves on flying straight
to the dest., but know that it rarely happens. I found that with the
higher operating costs, it was not worth it to me. Work out your own usual trips,
and work it at a cruise of what Van calls out, versus a "high" cruise. I
think you will find that it is only minutes, and really not worth the extra trouble
and worry. After all, we started this cause we wanted to fly, not sit
on the ground. Good luck in your decision.
Greg Richardson
RV-9a fuselage
Thanks to all of you for your helpful posts - lots of food for
thought !
g
>
>
>
> Fellow builders,
>
> Its that daunting and exciting time to decide what engine to
> put in my RV9 (taildragger). I've decided to rule out the auto
> conversions and go Lycosaur (IO-320 or 360) but I could use a
> like a little help deciding which. The 9 fuselage is pretty
> much identical to the 7, so it will take a 360. I know Van's
> recommends the 320 as the max for the 9 presumably to limit the
> possibility of exceeding Vne for the airframe etc etc.
>
> I'm wondering if folks already flying their 9s are getting max
> performance as advertised with the 320 and thus there's no
> purpose to putting in the 360. My mission is fastest possible
> cruise for frequent trips up and down the California coast from
> my home base in San Francisco to destinations like LA, San
> Diego, Tahoe, Portland, Seattle with the occassional coast to
> coast jaunt. Resale value is probably less of a concern to me
> - I can't ever see myself selling this puppy.
>
> Any experiences, thoughts, rants, prejudices and musings will
> be most welcome :)
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
Listers,
Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it
can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/
Thanks Gary!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
0.25 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
0.74 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.40 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
More shopping decisions ...
Van's Firewall Forward kit for the RV-9 (constant speed prop)
is some $4,300. Whilst Van's kits are usually very good value
for money, I was wondering what experiences people had with
this kit.
Were you happy with the qauality ?
Were there things missing or things not needed ?
Did you still have to fork out for extras ?
Would you buy it again ?
PS Most likely I'm going to get an IO-320 from Aerosport which
might have some bearing on the cost effectiveness of the FWF kit.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
Hi Gerry,
I used the firewall forward kit and believed what they
told me, which was it is little cheaper than buying
the individual parts piece meal. It makes the job a
lot easier. The only waste I noticed was in the
wiring kit. It is a genric kit to wire any RV.
Consequently their was quite a bit of extra cables.
Dennis
--- Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>
> More shopping decisions ...
>
> Van's Firewall Forward kit for the RV-9 (constant
> speed prop)
> is some $4,300. Whilst Van's kits are usually very
> good value
> for money, I was wondering what experiences people
> had with
> this kit.
>
> Were you happy with the qauality ?
> Were there things missing or things not needed ?
> Did you still have to fork out for extras ?
> Would you buy it again ?
>
> PS Most likely I'm going to get an IO-320 from
> Aerosport which
> might have some bearing on the cost effectiveness of
> the FWF kit.
>
> __g__
>
>
==========================================================
>
> Gerry Filby
> gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
Hi Gerry:
Ive bought the engine from Aerosport and there is nothing to complain about the
deal and
the engine. Excellent.
Into the FWF kit from VANS you could personalise the itens. For example: if you
decide to
buy a carb engine you dont need the material for injector one.
The best thing to do is to ask VANS a list of material in the FWF and remove or
add some
itens.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
PU-JCI
RV-9A QB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Ping" <rpping(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
Definitely 80% of the wiring part of the kit was useless. Most of the
wires were for other models and unless you are going to install Vans
prepunched panel most of the smaller wires are useless also. I just cut
them up and used them as I could. Although, what do you do when you have
to crimp a 003 wire?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV9-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ?
More shopping decisions ...
Van's Firewall Forward kit for the RV-9 (constant speed prop)
is some $4,300. Whilst Van's kits are usually very good value
for money, I was wondering what experiences people had with
this kit.
Were you happy with the qauality ?
Were there things missing or things not needed ?
Did you still have to fork out for extras ?
Would you buy it again ?
PS Most likely I'm going to get an IO-320 from Aerosport which
might have some bearing on the cost effectiveness of the FWF kit.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
Gerry,
Since I'm building a really unusual combination (RV-9 tip-up w/ an
O-290-D2 & a throttle quadrant rather than the Cessna style throttle)
The FWF and finishing kits are a bit of a challenge. For example, my
plane will require the O-235 cowl (Didn't know they were different) and
an O-320 exhaust stack.
I called Van's and they sent me the FWF parts list. From that I
selected the items I needed and am about to place the order. It turns
out that Van's doesn't discount the times in the FWF kit so you don't
loose any money by adding and/or deleting items from the kit.
Bill Repucci
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Ping
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ?
Definitely 80% of the wiring part of the kit was useless. Most of the
wires were for other models and unless you are going to install Vans
prepunched panel most of the smaller wires are useless also. I just cut
them up and used them as I could. Although, what do you do when you have
to crimp a 003 wire?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Subject: RV9-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ?
More shopping decisions ...
Van's Firewall Forward kit for the RV-9 (constant speed prop)
is some $4,300. Whilst Van's kits are usually very good value
for money, I was wondering what experiences people had with
this kit.
Were you happy with the qauality ?
Were there things missing or things not needed ?
Did you still have to fork out for extras ?
Would you buy it again ?
PS Most likely I'm going to get an IO-320 from Aerosport which
might have some bearing on the cost effectiveness of the FWF kit.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ? |
YES.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit ... worth the money ?
>
>
> More shopping decisions ...
>
> Van's Firewall Forward kit for the RV-9 (constant speed prop)
> is some $4,300. Whilst Van's kits are usually very good value
> for money, I was wondering what experiences people had with
> this kit.
>
> Were you happy with the qauality ?
> Were there things missing or things not needed ?
> Did you still have to fork out for extras ?
> Would you buy it again ?
>
> PS Most likely I'm going to get an IO-320 from Aerosport which
> might have some bearing on the cost effectiveness of the FWF kit.
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lance Sorensen <lancej(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | convert from tip up to slider? |
I am just beginning the quick build fuselage. Does anyone know if
it is possible/feasible to convert from tip up canopy style to
slider canopy
at this early stage? Thanks.
Lance J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: convert from tip up to slider? |
I just finnished the slider a month or so ago, and I wouldn't switch if you
have already started , each of them have positive and negative issues
you didn't say how far along you are on the tip up but I don't think it
would be worth changing if you have the finnish kit already..
build it, fly it , and do it on the next one.. :)
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Sorensen" <lancej(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV9-List: convert from tip up to slider?
>
> I am just beginning the quick build fuselage. Does anyone know if
> it is possible/feasible to convert from tip up canopy style to
> slider canopy
> at this early stage? Thanks.
>
> Lance J
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !! |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
0.25 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
0.74 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.40 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
Folks,
Looks like adding the roller tappet option to your 320 or 360
is going to add another $3-4000 to the price (that's Aerosport's
current estimate).
I've been hunting around and haven't found much discussion on
the upgrade apart from various announcements from Delphi and
Lycoming. This "new technology" solves premature wear and
corrosion only ? They also enable alternate cam profiles ? (Not
likely for this first timer.)
Is it worth it ?
If the subject's been beaten to death already I'd happily take
a link to some reference ...
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !! |
Gerry, I purchased an O-320 from Aero Sport with roller tappets. They
were very careful in representing the advantages... solving premature
wear, and not performance benefits.
There will probably be a bit of performance boost due to lower friction,
but that's it.
Why did I purchase roller tappets? It looks to me that the industry is
changing over... Lycoming is going this way, for example. Eventually,
your engine will be the 'old style' or the 'new style'. I think this
may affect resale value. More significantly, if it saves an overhaul
later on, it will pay for itself.
Realistically, if you fly every week, it probably won't matter. On the
west coast (BC), there can be bad weather for weeks, and it's a high
humidity/salt air environment. Anything to delay corrosion problems is
worth it.
I was a bit put off by the $4K additional price tag, but I went ahead
anyway (it fits in my budget). I hope to have the first Aero Sport
O-320 roller cam engine flying this fall.
Vern Little RV-9A
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Folks,
>
>Looks like adding the roller tappet option to your 320 or 360
>is going to add another $3-4000 to the price (that's Aerosport's
>current estimate).
>
>I've been hunting around and haven't found much discussion on
>the upgrade apart from various announcements from Delphi and
>Lycoming. This "new technology" solves premature wear and
>corrosion only ? They also enable alternate cam profiles ? (Not
>likely for this first timer.)
>
>Is it worth it ?
>
>If the subject's been beaten to death already I'd happily take
>a link to some reference ...
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !! |
the cost/benefit analysis seems a little extensive for a quick list response, but
you have begun the process of looking at the cost, not add benefit (savings),
how much you fly and how long you will fly at the current rate. How many overhauls
per set of roller tappets?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Looks like adding the roller tappet option to your 320 or 360
> is going to add another $3-4000 to the price (that's Aerosport's
> current estimate).
>
> I've been hunting around and haven't found much discussion on
> the upgrade apart from various announcements from Delphi and
> Lycoming. This "new technology" solves premature wear and
> corrosion only ? They also enable alternate cam profiles ? (Not
> likely for this first timer.)
>
> Is it worth it ?
>
> If the subject's been beaten to death already I'd happily take
> a link to some reference ...
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
the cost/benefit analysis seems a little extensive for a quick list response, but
you have begun the process of looking at the cost, not add benefit (savings),
how much you fly and how long you will fly at the current rate. How many overhauls
per set of roller tappets?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby
Folks,
Looks like adding the roller tappet option to your 320 or 360
is going to add another $3-4000 to the price (that's Aerosport's
current estimate).
I've been hunting around and haven't found much discussion on
the upgrade apart from various announcements from Delphi and
Lycoming. This "new technology" solves premature wear and
corrosion only ? They also enable alternate cam profiles ? (Not
likely for this first timer.)
Is it worth it ?
If the subject's been beaten to death already I'd happily take
a link to some reference ...
__g__
=======================================
===================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !! |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Gerry,
Yes, I also checked out the roller cam. I would like to do it
but for a 20% bump on the price, No WAY. I would go for a grand more
but no way the 3 - 4000 extra. The marketing people have lost their
way----
Jim Nelson
IO-360 on order from Mattituck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !! |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Don't know if you all realize this or not but the price doesn't consist
of just the roller cam and followers, it is a brand new engine kit. Zero
time on every part AND built from all OEM parts. Big difference. Call or
email us, we would be more than happy to discuss the kit engine in
detail.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
(918) 835-1089 phone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Roller tappets - another ~ - OUCH !!
Hi Gerry,
Yes, I also checked out the roller cam. I would like to do it
but for a 20% bump on the price, No WAY. I would go for a grand more
but no way the 3 - 4000 extra. The marketing people have lost their
way----
Jim Nelson
IO-360 on order from Mattituck
________________________________________________________________________________
N951DM flew for the first time last Thurs. Still smiling!!In my first few
test flights,am getting higher than desired cylinder head temps on #3 and
4(Aerosport o-320), Am also getting a lot of advice on the cause and would like
to
hear from anyone with the same type experience,especially the hot
weather(Az,Nm,So Cal). What did you do,etc.
I redid some baffling(helped some)
Anybody enlarge the exit on the cowl??
Thanks,
Dick Migas 951DM, flying......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
Hi Dick :
Ivew got the same problem. Aerosport O-320 D2A. Till now I did nothing since my
-9A is
inside the paint shop.
In my first flight Ive climbed to FL035. The ground temp was 83F and during the
climb
the CHT raise to 450F, full throtle. First thing Ill do will be sealling the baffling
front part with crankcase.
Keep me informed.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
PU-JCI
RV-9A QB
1030 h bulding : 2,5 h flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Dick,
Congratulations on the safe flight!
I think that you will find that new cylinders will run hot for the first
10-15 hours. I first flew mine in 90-100 degree weather from an airport at
4250 feet MSL. I too was concerned about the high temps which sometimes
were very near the upper CHT limit. In such weather, I was advised to keep
climbs slow, carefully watching the CHT. I found that just as the old
heads told me, the temps gradually decreased with time. 3 and 4 are still
slightly hotter even after 98 hours. This makes sense to me because they
are in the back, with 3 for some reason slightly hotter than 4.
I noted a similar trend with the oil temp. The oil temp kept getting lower
until around 40 hours, when it leveled off, and has been flat ever since. I
used straight mineral oil for the first 20 tach hours, then switched to
15-50.
I think that it may be too soon to consider modifying cowling, since you
haven't really broken the engine in yet. I find that the standard Van's
configuration for me is adequate, and I have no cooling problems. Even
during steep climbs on 100 degree days.
This was my experience, but you may want to consult Aerosport or your local
A&P.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: <KDMIGAS(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV9-List: (no subject)
>
> N951DM flew for the first time last Thurs. Still smiling!!In my first few
> test flights,am getting higher than desired cylinder head temps on #3 and
> 4(Aerosport o-320), Am also getting a lot of advice on the cause and would
> like to
> hear from anyone with the same type experience,especially the hot
> weather(Az,Nm,So Cal). What did you do,etc.
> I redid some baffling(helped some)
> Anybody enlarge the exit on the cowl??
> Thanks,
> Dick Migas 951DM, flying......
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
At OSH this year, I noticed a number of examples of raised baffles in front of
#1 and #2 to increase the temperatures there and increase the downflow further
back. It might help.
N927BJ (90616) is in the paint booth right now and will be beginning final assembly
next week at KLGU
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Dick,
>
> Congratulations on the safe flight!
>
> I think that you will find that new cylinders will run hot for the first
> 10-15 hours. I first flew mine in 90-100 degree weather from an airport at
> 4250 feet MSL. I too was concerned about the high temps which sometimes
> were very near the upper CHT limit. In such weather, I was advised to keep
> climbs slow, carefully watching the CHT. I found that just as the old
> heads told me, the temps gradually decreased with time. 3 and 4 are still
> slightly hotter even after 98 hours. This makes sense to me because they
> are in the back, with 3 for some reason slightly hotter than 4.
>
> I noted a similar trend with the oil temp. The oil temp kept getting lower
> until around 40 hours, when it leveled off, and has been flat ever since. I
> used straight mineral oil for the first 20 tach hours, then switched to
> 15-50.
>
> I think that it may be too soon to consider modifying cowling, since you
> haven't really broken the engine in yet. I find that the standard Van's
> configuration for me is adequate, and I have no cooling problems. Even
> during steep climbs on 100 degree days.
>
> This was my experience, but you may want to consult Aerosport or your local
> A&P.
>
> Dale
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: (no subject)
>
>
> >
> > N951DM flew for the first time last Thurs. Still smiling!!In my first few
> > test flights,am getting higher than desired cylinder head temps on #3 and
> > 4(Aerosport o-320), Am also getting a lot of advice on the cause and would
> > like to
> > hear from anyone with the same type experience,especially the hot
> > weather(Az,Nm,So Cal). What did you do,etc.
> > I redid some baffling(helped some)
> > Anybody enlarge the exit on the cowl??
> > Thanks,
> > Dick Migas 951DM, flying......
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
At OSH this year, I noticed a number of examples of raised baffles in front of
#1 and #2 to increase the temperatures there and increase the downflow further
back. It might help.
N927BJ (90616) is in the paint booth right now and will be beginning final assembly
next week at KLGU
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: "Dale Larsen" <SLICKROCK@BEEN-THERE.COM>
Dick,
Congratulations on the safe flight!
I think that you will find that new cylinders will run hot for the first
10-15 hours. I first flew mine in 90-100 degree weather from an airport at
4250 feet MSL. I too was concerned about the high temps which sometimes
were very near the upper CHT limit. In such weather, I was advised to keep
climbs slow, carefully watching the CHT. I found that just as the old
heads told me, the temps gradually decreased with time. 3 and 4 are still
slightly hotter even after 98 hours. This makes sense to me because they
are in the back, with 3 for some reason slightly hotter than 4.
I noted a simi
lar trend with the oil temp. The oil temp kept getting lower
until around 40 hours, when it leveled off, and has been flat ever since. I
used straight mineral oil for the first 20 tach hours, then switched to
15-50.
I think that it may be too soon to consider modifying cowling, since you
haven't really broken the engine in yet. I find that the standard Van's
configuration for me is adequate, and I have no cooling problems. Even
during steep climbs on 100 degree days.
This was my experience, but you may want to consult Aerosport or your local
AP.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: <KDMIGAS(at)AOL.COM>
To:
Subject: RV9-List: (no subject)
-- RV9-List message posted by: KDMIGAS(at)aol.com
N951DM flew for the first time last Thurs.
Still smiling!!In my first few
test flights,am getting higher than desired cylinder head temps on #3 and
4(Aerosport o-320), Am also getting a lot of advice on the cause and would
like to
hear from anyone with the same type experience,especially the hot
weather(Az,Nm,So Cal). What did you do,etc.
I redid some baffling(helped some)
Anybody enlarge the exit on the cowl??
Thanks,
Dick Migas 951DM, flying......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel collapse another view |
Gents,
I too am building an RV-7A and have been following the discussions about the recent
nosewheel collapse. I am concerned about this situation as many of you are.
I have talked with Ken Krueger (Van's engineering), who I have a tremendous respect
for, about some of these recent accidents. I am certain Van's Aircraft takes
this situation very seriously. However if you step back and ask yourself
are there a few RV'As out there that have had the highest number of landings
to date, where would you find them? What kind of landing have they seen? Grass
or paved runways? My best guess is these are the RV-7A and RV-9A prototypes
at Van's Aircraft. Who flies these? Van's staff. Where have they landed?
Grass or pavement? Both. Have they taxied on grass? Yes. Have they botched
a few landing? I would think so. Now I would bet these two aircraft have 10
times or more the numbers of landing then any another RV's out there and their
nose gears haven't collapsed.
I am not saying there isn't a issue, I am just giving you another view to understand
possibly why Van's Aircraft appears to have "no comment" when it comes to
this issue.
In all the postings about this issue, no one has mentioned the possibility of improper
heat treating of the gear leg. If I recall this was an issue sometime
ago with some main gear legs on RV's. This might be the root cause. This can
be easily determined by sending the nose gear leg off to any qualified machine
shop who can perform a hardness test on the leg. This will help determine
if the gear was heat treated properly.
Food for thought.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel collapse another view |
This is the voice of experience speaking. On landing number 17 on a hard
surface runway and no previous bad landings, I managed to partially retract
the nose gear on my 9A. Damage was relatively minor: the gear leg, the
front piece on the wheel fairing, the gear leg fairing, and of course the
prop. The outer 2" of the prop required refurbishing and 1/2" was removed
from each end. The engine was not stopped by the ground contact (I thought
about going around but with 3000' of runway left, I stopped the engine and
made another landing) and fortunately there was no damage to the crankshaft.
The root cause of the gear leg failure was a bad landing. I was warned by a
local RV expert before my first flight to land slow and keep the nose wheel
up until the mains are down, other wise I would likely damage the nose gear.
So here I was with 4100' feet of runway ahead and some big white numbers on
the approach end (the ones that we are supposed to hit, right) and about 70
knots of air speed and no wind (70 knots of ground speed!). I put it on the
numbers and after the unusual noise I became airborne again. In the next
1000' (I had plenty of airspeed to keep flying), I decided to kill the
engine and land. A guy, who was in his yard on the airport, walked up to
the nose down airplane to help me push it back to the hanger and he
commented that he thought that I was going "a little fast".
If the nose gear leg had not bent, if it had been stronger, then the engine
mount and fire wall may have been damaged. A much bigger problem. I think
that Van's has designed a very good airplane and if we who fly them can
treat them right, they will serve us well.
Dick Jones 90062
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Nosewheel collapse another view
>
> Gents,
>
> I too am building an RV-7A and have been following the discussions about
> the recent nosewheel collapse. I am concerned about this situation as
> many of you are.
>
> I have talked with Ken Krueger (Van's engineering), who I have a
> tremendous respect for, about some of these recent accidents. I am
> certain Van's Aircraft takes this situation very seriously. However if
> you step back and ask yourself are there a few RV'As out there that have
> had the highest number of landings to date, where would you find them?
> What kind of landing have they seen? Grass or paved runways? My best
> guess is these are the RV-7A and RV-9A prototypes at Van's Aircraft. Who
> flies these? Van's staff. Where have they landed? Grass or pavement?
> Both. Have they taxied on grass? Yes. Have they botched a few landing?
> I would think so. Now I would bet these two aircraft have 10 times or
> more the numbers of landing then any another RV's out there and their nose
> gears haven't collapsed.
>
> I am not saying there isn't a issue, I am just giving you another view to
> understand possibly why Van's Aircraft appears to have "no comment" when
> it comes to this issue.
>
> In all the postings about this issue, no one has mentioned the possibility
> of improper heat treating of the gear leg. If I recall this was an issue
> sometime ago with some main gear legs on RV's. This might be the root
> cause. This can be easily determined by sending the nose gear leg off to
> any qualified machine shop who can perform a hardness test on the leg.
> This will help determine if the gear was heat treated properly.
>
> Food for thought.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | Richard bad landing |
Thanks Richard:
For your courage to tell us about your bad landing.
Now, Ive got only 3 landings in my -9a.
Still looking for the best approach speed.
The first landing, with a lot of strong emotion, after 1030 hs bulding it, Ive
put down
half flaps and trimmed the -9A to 70 kt on a long final. The climb is something
about -
300 to -400 fpm. Ive flared above the numbers and waited for the stall. It tooks
a long
time to arrive, may be 300 feet. Put it down on the mains and at this time I decided
not
to cut the stick control, the sticks lenght is appropriate. To maintain the nose
high
without power, Ive put something like 20 pounds on top of stick.
The second one Ive trimmed it to 60 kt. The stall occours at 42 kt and something
100
feet after flare.
The third one Ive tried to approach with 60 kt, trimmed it to 55 kt in a short
final,
but due to 10 to 17 kts gust cross winds, Ive aborted the landing and tried another
one.
The last was unventfull 60 kt approach and flare.
What about your numbers?
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
#90997
Flying
http://websites.expercraft.com/jcmm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Richard bad landing |
I can tell you the #s I used. About 75 knots approach speed. Just bring it
down to the run way and hold it off until it settles down on the ground
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neilekins(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Richard bad landing |
my builder # is 90939 neilsplane .com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Shimming required? |
Gents,
Have any other builders needed to shim about 0.063" (1/16") between the F-724 (Aft
Fuselage Bulkhead) bottom flange and the F-623 (Corner Rib). To refresh some
of your memory this is the F-623 is bottom corner rib that extends to the
side of the baggage bay to the side skins. This is the rib that get notched for
the flap pushrod and also get trimmed for the step tube to clear. The F-724
is the vertical bulkhead in the baggage bay. It appears that without shimming
the side skins will not line up properly with the bottom skin and corner rib
flange.
Attached is a image from the plan set.
Any thoughts?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Shimming required? |
Paul,
Didn't get the attachment, but did you trimmed the aft end of the 623 corner
rib so that it will clear the flange of the 706 bulkhead?
Mike
SC
90709 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems
Subject: RV9-List: Shimming required?
Gents,
Have any other builders needed to shim about 0.063" (1/16") between the
F-724 (Aft Fuselage Bulkhead) bottom flange and the F-623 (Corner Rib). To
refresh some of your memory this is the F-623 is bottom corner rib that
extends to the side of the baggage bay to the side skins. This is the rib
that get notched for the flap pushrod and also get trimmed for the step tube
to clear. The F-724 is the vertical bulkhead in the baggage bay. It
appears that without shimming the side skins will not line up properly with
the bottom skin and corner rib flange.
Attached is a image from the plan set.
Any thoughts?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Murray" <Ronald_P_Murray(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Collapse |
OK it's true confession time. I had a nose gear collapse on my RV-9A with a little
over 20 hours on it a little over a month ago. At first I was so frustrated
with the situation that I did not want to talk about it. But we went to Oshkosh
and talked to Van's, Aero Sport Power, and Sensenich about the incident.
We are now on the road to recovery having sent our brand new engine back to
Aero Sport Power for tear down and inspection, ordered a new gear leg and associated
parts and placed an order for a new prop. Here's what happened.
On Friday, July 8th, 2005 at around 10:30 AM, the aircraft was cleared
to land on a 6400 X 150' newly repaved runway and landed normally. During
the roll out, the control stick was held in the aft position holding the nose
wheel off the ground as the airplane slowed down. At about 35 knots, a gust
of wind picked up the airplane about a foot off the runway. The control stick
was held in the aft position waiting for the aircraft to settle back to the runway.
However, the nose wheel contacted the runway first, resulting in a couple
of porpoises. After the second porpoises the nose gear collapsed and bent
90 degrees rearward destroying the front of the nose gear fairing, and scraping
the nose gear fork on the front edge. The tire and wheel assembly was not
damaged and appears to be OK. Other than the nose gear, the fuselage sustained
no damage.
As a result of the above, the prop contacted the ground bending the prop tips about
5 inches rearward. The airplane remained on the pavement during the entire
incident. The engine did not stop and was shut down normally. No other damage
to the airplane has been discovered and no injuries were incurred.
The wings were removed and the airplane was placed on a trailer, and returned to
its home base.
What are the lessons to be learned? For one, be aware of the fact that the nose
gear is fragile and should be treated that way. As one person at Oshkosh told
me, "the nose gear is to be used only to keep the nose off the ground when
the airplane is parked." Maybe over stated, but worth considering.
More food for thought,
Ron Murray
90291
N937RK
Lake Norman Airpark, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard bad landing |
Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I can tell you the #s I used. About 75 knots approach speed. Just bring it
>down to the run way and hold it off until it settles down on the ground
>
Apparently we've uncovered Van's 1st deception in performance numbers.
It would seem that the -9's stall speed has been grossly understated in
the literature. :-) Seriously, what are your -9's showing at stall, both
indicated & gps readings compared on a nice calm morning? I fly final in
my -4 at 75 *mph* & it still floats a bit.
Do they stall up around 55-60 kts indicated? That would indicate a
significant low-speed pitot-static error. Not a big deal as long as
everything is flown by indicated speeds & the asi is placarded to show
it. On the other hand, if they stall in the mid 40's indicated as Van
claims, 75 kts could be a reasonable low cruise speed. It would be very
hard to land a nosewheel aircraft that much above stall.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay R <clayr_55(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard bad landing |
I have the flight data captured from my EFIS/One
during a landing. (also the climb, and various speed
runs at different altitudes)
It shows an indicated airspeed of 39KTS and GPS
groundspeed of 40KTS at the point of touchdown. This
is at 1720' density altitude.
I normally fly my initial approach at 70KTS, then
short final try to be around 65KTS. If I need to make
a short landing, I'll take it down to 60KTS to keep
the flare short.
The worst thing you can do is touch the ground going
too fast. The plane will try to fly again. Be ready
to add power and go around if a gust lifts you off the
ground. The stick should be back and you should stall
while inches above the ground.. resulting in a
squeaker every time. Then gradually keep pulling back
to hold the nose up as long as possible.
My complete spreadsheet of EFIS captured flight data
is available on the RV-9A yahoo group in the files
section. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-9A/files/
Look for RV9APerformanceData.xls
-Clay
--- Charlie England wrote:
>
>
> Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >I can tell you the #s I used. About 75 knots
> approach speed. Just bring it
> >down to the run way and hold it off until it
> settles down on the ground
> >
>
> Apparently we've uncovered Van's 1st deception in
> performance numbers.
> It would seem that the -9's stall speed has been
> grossly understated in
> the literature. :-) Seriously, what are your -9's
> showing at stall, both
> indicated & gps readings compared on a nice calm
> morning? I fly final in
> my -4 at 75 *mph* & it still floats a bit.
>
> Do they stall up around 55-60 kts indicated? That
> would indicate a
> significant low-speed pitot-static error. Not a big
> deal as long as
> everything is flown by indicated speeds & the asi is
> placarded to show
> it. On the other hand, if they stall in the mid 40's
> indicated as Van
> claims, 75 kts could be a reasonable low cruise
> speed. It would be very
> hard to land a nosewheel aircraft that much above
> stall.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dedgemon(at)knology.net" <dedgemon(at)knology.net> |
| Subject: | RV9 landing (was nose gear, etc..) |
Folks,
It sure sounds like some people are landing these airplanes too fast. I
thought I would add my procedures to the mix just for what their worth.
I started flying my 9A in October and currently have 110 hours and a
couple of hundred (at least) landings. Note that I am based on a 2000'
grass strip and regularly fly off of hard surface also.
My "normal" landing is something like the following.
1. Enter downwind and start slowing the airplane
2. Somewhere abeam the numbers be established at 80 knots or a little
slower.
3. Deploy "full" flaps and slow to 70 knots.
4. Retard throttle (perhaps fully if still high) and turn base, then
final.
5. I "normally" fly final at 70 knots unless I've got company on my wing.
6. Near the numbers (before the flare) start getting the speed down into
the low 60 knot range unless its really windy.
7. Flare about a foot off of the ground and hold nose high as the speed
bleeds off.
8. Keep nose up with stick as needed.
Some thoughts.
1. My 9A stalls at 50 knots with full flaps and gross weight, 45 knots
at full flaps and solo. So, you definately don't want to be blazing over
the numbers at 70 knots, UNLESS, you're comfortable slowing the airplane
while at 1 - 2 feet altitude. This is quite doable and normally if I'm
flying with other RV's (6's, 7's, etc..) behind me, then I fly 80 knots to
the numbers and slow over the runway. HOWEVER, I absolutely don't touch
down at those speeds. I hold it off until it stalls on at about 50.
2. Approach angle. Steep is definately better here. Shallow approaches
under power cause all sorts of problems. The airplane wants to drop out
from under you after it gets slow (not as bad as a 6,7,8 but its still an
issue). A easier landing is to be relatively high so that you are needing
less and less power as you go down final. Also at shorter fields a steeper
approach allows you a shorter landing (in any airplane). Try practicing
your landings and make each approach a litter steeper than the last.
You'll be suprised at how easy it is to get rid of the altitude with full
flaps at 70 knots or below.
3. I guess that I typically cross the aimpoint (whereever that is going
to be today, numbers, etc..) at 60 knots or less, zero (and I do mean
zero) throttle with the nose coming up quite a bit. Ideally I want to here
the mains hit at stall speed with the nose "way" above the horizon.
Honestly its just like landing a 172 except easier. The airplane handles
better, you can see better, etc..
4. I often wonder it the quys that land on their noses are sitting high
enough to see well. You want to be all the way up into the canopy as high
as possible. This makes seeing over the nose easy and leads to much more
precise flare and roundout.
Hope this helps.
--
David Edgemon
RV-9A N42DE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Richard bad landing |
Could Clay or someone else rpovide me with a copy of the performance profile cited.
I don't have access to the yahoo site.
TIA, John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I have the flight data captured from my EFIS/One
> during a landing. (also the climb, and various speed
> runs at different altitudes)
>
> It shows an indicated airspeed of 39KTS and GPS
> groundspeed of 40KTS at the point of touchdown. This
> is at 1720' density altitude.
>
> I normally fly my initial approach at 70KTS, then
> short final try to be around 65KTS. If I need to make
> a short landing, I'll take it down to 60KTS to keep
> the flare short.
>
> The worst thing you can do is touch the ground going
> too fast. The plane will try to fly again. Be ready
> to add power and go around if a gust lifts you off the
> ground. The stick should be back and you should stall
> while inches above the ground.. resulting in a
> squeaker every time. Then gradually keep pulling back
> to hold the nose up as long as possible.
>
> My complete spreadsheet of EFIS captured flight data
> is available on the RV-9A yahoo group in the files
> section. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-9A/files/
> Look for RV9APerformanceData.xls
>
> -Clay
>
> --- Charlie England wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >I can tell you the #s I used. About 75 knots
> > approach speed. Just bring it
> > >down to the run way and hold it off until it
> > settles down on the ground
> > >
> >
> > Apparently we've uncovered Van's 1st deception in
> > performance numbers.
> > It would seem that the -9's stall speed has been
> > grossly understated in
> > the literature. :-) Seriously, what are your -9's
> > showing at stall, both
> > indicated & gps readings compared on a nice calm
> > morning? I fly final in
> > my -4 at 75 *mph* & it still floats a bit.
> >
> > Do they stall up around 55-60 kts indicated? That
> > would indicate a
> > significant low-speed pitot-static error. Not a big
> > deal as long as
> > everything is flown by indicated speeds & the asi is
> > placarded to show
> > it. On the other hand, if they stall in the mid 40's
> > indicated as Van
> > claims, 75 kts could be a reasonable low cruise
> > speed. It would be very
> > hard to land a nosewheel aircraft that much above
> > stall.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Could Clay or someone else rpovide me with a copy of the performance profile cited.
I don't have access to the yahoo site.
TIA, John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV9-List message posted by: Clay R
I have the flight data captured from my EFIS/One
during a landing. (also the climb, and various speed
runs at different altitudes)
It shows an indicated airspeed of 39KTS and GPS
groundspeed of 40KTS at the point of touchdown. This
is at 1720' density altitude.
I normally fly my initial approach at 70KTS, then
short final try to be around 65KTS. If I need to make
a short landing, I'll take it down to 60KTS to keep
the flare short.
The worst thing you can do is touch the ground going
too fast. The plane will try to fly again. Be ready
to add power and go around if a gust lifts you off the
ground. The stick shoul
d be back and you should stall
while inches above the ground.. resulting in a
squeaker every time. Then gradually keep pulling back
to hold the nose up as long as possible.
My complete spreadsheet of EFIS captured flight data
is available on the RV-9A yahoo group in the files
section. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-9A/files/
Look for RV9APerformanceData.xls
-Clay
--- Charlie England wrote:
-- RV9-List message posted by: Charlie England
Neilekins(at)aol.com wrote:
-- RV9-List message posted by: Neilekins(at)aol.com
I can tell you the #s I used. About 75 knots
approach speed. Just bring it
down to the run way and hold it off until it
settles
down on the ground
Apparently we've uncovered Van's 1st deception in
performance numbers.
It would seem that the -9's stall speed has been
grossly understated in
the literature. :-) Seriously, what are your -9's
showing at stall, both
indicated gps readings compared on a nice calm
morning? I fly final in
my -4 at 75 *mph* it still floats a bit.
Do they stall up around 55-60 kts indicated? That
would indicate a
significant low-speed pitot-static error. Not a big
deal as long as
everything is flown by indicated speeds the asi is
placarded to show
it. On the other hand, if they stall in the mid 40's
indicated as Van
claims, 75 kts could be a reasonable low cruise speed. It would be very
hard to land a nosewheel aircraft that much above
stall.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Flap pushrod cutout |
Fellow builders,
I am preparing my bottom center fuselage skin for riveting and I am trying to determine
the cutout size for the flap pushrod. I have had the side skins on and
I know there is a slot cut in the side skin for the flap pushrod. There is
a 3/32 hole in bottom skin that lines up with this slot. I believe this slot
and hole are to joined/enlarged together to form the slot for the pushrod, however
I can't seem to find the proper reference in the drawings or instructions.
If you can enlighten me I would appreciate it.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Flap pushrod cutout |
After you install the wings and flaps, you hook up the flaps to the flap
actuator tube and cut away any skin that interferes with flap movement as it
goes up and down. That will give you the smallest hole possible. Afterward,
you cleanup/trim away more skin as required for adequate clearance in use.
Albert Gardner
9-0132 N872RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems
Subject: RV9-List: Flap pushrod cutout
Fellow builders,
I am preparing my bottom center fuselage skin for riveting and I am trying
to determine the cutout size for the flap pushrod. I have had the side
skins on and I know there is a slot cut in the side skin for the flap
pushrod. There is a 3/32 hole in bottom skin that lines up with this slot.
I believe this slot and hole are to joined/enlarged together to form the
slot for the pushrod, however I can't seem to find the proper reference in
the drawings or instructions.
If you can enlighten me I would appreciate it.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | RE: Flap pushrod cutout |
Hi Merens:
Leave this job to the final assembly. After the wings and flaps are in their place.
It
will be easier to trim the smallest hole necessary.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
-9A QB
#90997
flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Flap pushrod cutout |
Gents,
Thanks for the input on the flap pushrod cutout. I had thought that because of
the advanced nature of the kit Van's would have given more information on the
cutout. I thought I was having a senior moment (not finding it in the plans or
instructions).
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
I was playing with the elevators and the manual trim cable this weekend. I
was trying to figure out how the aft end of the trim cable gets secured when
I found the nut welded to a small steel plate in the manual trim hardware
bag. I can only assume that this somehow gets attached to the access cover
which then holds the cable in place.
Questions:
- Are there seperate manual trim instructions somewhere? I can find no
reference in the instructions and the plans only have a small picture of
this that I could find.
- Did you just rivet this nut/steel plate to the access cover? Seems that if
you did it this way it would be a challenge to 'turn' the access cover/nut
onto the trim cable. (I positioned my manual trim cable higher on a center
post, so I have no slack to pull it out farther.)
I'm thinking a nutplate on the back side of the steel plate to attach it to
the access cover. That would allow you to remove the access cover without
removing the trim cable and such.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
Hey Matthew,
Got your post and was thinking about this. I haven't gotten anywhere near
having to worry about it, but I did some thinking on it awhile back while my
shed was being built and I couldn't do any real building.
DWG 4, MANUAL TRIM ASSY view shows the steel plate with the nut welded to it
riveted to the cover plate. I'm thinking that once set, there is really no
need to even access this area except to deal with the trim components for
some reason. Looks like you would need to have this in place and then hook
up the other end in the cockpit last so you can have the slack you need to
get it into place.
Just trying to figure it out for myself too.
Regards,
Mike
90709 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV9-List: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end
I was playing with the elevators and the manual trim cable this weekend. I
was trying to figure out how the aft end of the trim cable gets secured when
I found the nut welded to a small steel plate in the manual trim hardware
bag. I can only assume that this somehow gets attached to the access cover
which then holds the cable in place.
Questions:
- Are there seperate manual trim instructions somewhere? I can find no
reference in the instructions and the plans only have a small picture of
this that I could find.
- Did you just rivet this nut/steel plate to the access cover? Seems that if
you did it this way it would be a challenge to 'turn' the access cover/nut
onto the trim cable. (I positioned my manual trim cable higher on a center
post, so I have no slack to pull it out farther.)
I'm thinking a nutplate on the back side of the steel plate to attach it to
the access cover. That would allow you to remove the access cover without
removing the trim cable and such.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
Mike,
Thanks for the reply because you helped me make the decision. I hadn't
thought about just unmounting the trim knob at the front and then push it
out enough to turn the whole access cover w/ nut attached onto the cable and
then pull it back in to mount. The only downside to this is that I had some
wires running along with the trim cable. I'll have to attach those to
different locations.
So I'll be riveting that nut/steel plate to the access cover and I'll pull
the trim cable in/out as necessary to get it on/off.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today,
Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and
searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for
be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics
System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web
server and won't be available during the upgrade):
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
Great question and timely. I offer another option. Drill the welded plate
and install a nutplate. Then you can screw on a #8. I think this allows
easier adjustment when and if needed.
Just my .02 worth.
Tad S.
-7A painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
Tad,
Sounds like what Matthew was talking about. Question: Will there be a
tendency for the steel plate/nut to want to pivot on that #8 screw? If I see
it right, there will be a platenut on the top side of the steel plate and
that plate will be countersunk on the bottom for the cover plate's dimple.
Seem like this might create the opportunity for the steel plate/nut to want
to pivot, considering frequent use and vibration. Perhaps just another
preflight check point.
Just searching for answers,
Mike
9A fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sargentclt(at)cs.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end
Great question and timely. I offer another option. Drill the welded plate
and install a nutplate. Then you can screw on a #8. I think this allows
easier adjustment when and if needed.
Just my .02 worth.
Tad S.
-7A painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICK LUCK <rluck(at)prodigy.net> |
Unlike most of you, I didn't build my RV-9A but bought it instead. It's time for
the it's first Annual since I've owned it and the local A&P at our field will
be doing it. He asked me about jacking points for lifting the plane to service
the landing gear. I've looked through the builders manual and have found
several references where you're instructed to jack the plane up while installing
and adjusting landing gear and such but haven't come across anything specifically
about where to place the jack stands when lifting the plane when it's
at it's finished weight. Can you use the tie-down threaded points or do you
have to fabicate some kind of a padded cradle or saddle for under the wing and
get it as close to the fuselage as possible? Thanks in advance. Rick Luck
N109RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
Someone smarter than me may have a different view. I think the attach point
of the clevis end and the two penetration points where the cable passes
through would be enough to hold everything in its place. The rotation point may
be
on the vertical axis ie. to loosen the jamb nut, however I do not believe this
will happen. I have not installed the cable attach bolt yet however this is
just a talking point.
Tad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Jones" <esnj(at)granbury.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Points |
Rick: I've been flying my 9A almost 3 years and I jack it using the tie
down points. I use a piece of 3/8 NC all-thread about 5" long with a nut on
it and thread the all-thread into the tie down about 1.5" with the nut set
about 1/4" below the skin. My homemade jack uses a piece of 3/8" sch 40
pipe sliding inside a piece of 3/4'" pipe that is welded to the jack frame.
Note that when the all-thread is viewed from the front of the plane, it is
not verticle but assumes the angle of the wings diehedral plus 90 degrees.
I tilt my entire jack so that this initial angle is accounted for. When you
jack the wing about a foot, which is required to get a tire off the floor,
that angle increases another 3 or 4 degrees. Make sure that there is enough
slop in your system to accomodate this angle change. You do not want a
failure of this jack to result in a hole in the wing and possibly severe
damage to the aileron controls.
Dick Jones 90062
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICK LUCK" <rluck(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Jacking Points
>
> Unlike most of you, I didn't build my RV-9A but bought it instead. It's
> time for the it's first Annual since I've owned it and the local A&P at
> our field will be doing it. He asked me about jacking points for lifting
> the plane to service the landing gear. I've looked through the builders
> manual and have found several references where you're instructed to jack
> the plane up while installing and adjusting landing gear and such but
> haven't come across anything specifically about where to place the jack
> stands when lifting the plane when it's at it's finished weight. Can you
> use the tie-down threaded points or do you have to fabicate some kind of a
> padded cradle or saddle for under the wing and get it as close to the
> fuselage as possible? Thanks in advance. Rick Luck N109RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | pitot line routing |
looking for some help in determining the best way to route the pitot and angle
of attack tubes through to the Dynon on the panel for my 9A.
Out of the paint booth and deep into final assembly.
John Kerr
90616, N926BJ
looking for some help in determining the best way to route the pitot and angle
of attack tubes through to the Dynon on the panel for my 9A.
Out of the paint booth and deep into final assembly.
John Kerr
90616, N926BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot line routing |
John: here is what I did:
From the wing root, I routed the lines aft under the seat floor,
through a hole in the seat floor, ran them straight up through a hole in
the armrest, then forward underneath the top longeron to the panel.
Saves drilling a big hole in the spar ;-)
Vern Little, RV-9A
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>looking for some help in determining the best way to route the pitot and angle
of attack tubes through to the Dynon on the panel for my 9A.
>
>Out of the paint booth and deep into final assembly.
>
>John Kerr
>90616, N926BJ
>
>looking for some help in determining the best way to route the pitot and angle
of attack tubes through to the Dynon on the panel for my 9A.
>
>Out of the paint booth and deep into final assembly.
>
>John Kerr
>90616, N926BJ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ExperCraft build log |
| From: | "Robert Riggen" <rob(at)riggen.org> |
Fellow builders,
This is an invite to those who need a method for creating a project log
and Web site.
Even if you've already started your log using another system this one is
worth a look.
ExperCraft Simple Log is free for builders and is a great way to create a
comprehensive log and Web site. It's very easy to use.
http://www.expercraft.com
Enjoy!
Rob
--
Rob Riggen
building a Vans RV7
http://websites.expercraft.com/rriggen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Suggestions please. The An4-12A bolt through elevator horns and the HS 911 assembly
fits too close to the horn shaft to tighten. Are there "small-headed" bolts
available or can one be fabricated?
John Kerr, RV9
Out of the paint booth and on to final assembly
Suggestions please.The An4-12A bolt through elevator horns and the HS 911 assembly
fits too close to the horn shaft to tighten. Are there "small-headed" bolts
available or can one be fabricated?
John Kerr, RV9
Out of the paint booth and on to final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Disher <jdisher(at)intergate.com> |
As I crawl around on the floor doing my best imitation of a "Monkey
Mating a Football", I know that there has to be a better way.
I can't help but believe that the erroneous way I did the nose gear pant
is a little simpler. Instead of riviting the pant to the brackets, I
left the brackets affixed to the gear and fastened the pant to it with
screws and recessed washers..
My big dilemma is how do you fasten a tow bar to the nose gear, and what
sort of a piece of equipment would you use? I realize that anything you
use on that nose gear has to be used very gently, but there has to be a
way to move this thing around, by hand, on the ground
John Disher
"Spending 90% of the time on the last 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 60amp Alternator kit |
I have an older lycoming 0320 (no letters) and I am planning on buying the
alt locally (honda lifetime waranty) I was planning on buying the
brackets and plug from vans, but I don't know if the 60amp alt is boss mount
or case mount anyone have any info on this ?
Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
John Disher wrote:
> is a little simpler. Instead of riviting the pant to the brackets, I
> left the brackets affixed to the gear and fastened the pant to it with
> screws and recessed washers..
>
> My big dilemma is how do you fasten a tow bar to the nose gear, and what
> sort of a piece of equipment would you use? I realize that anything you
Fortunately for you, you ignored Van's instructions. I hate
having to pull the axle bolt out to remove my nose pant.
Anyway, since my brackets are riveted on, I had to poke two
sets of holes in the wheel pant to access the axle bolt/nut
and the two hex head screws.
I made the holes in the pant for the axle bolt large enough
to fit my towbar into and latch onto this bolt. Works great.
The tow bar is a "Bogi Bar", available from Spruce and others.
I know others have also used the holes for the hex bolts that
hold the forward bracket in the same manner.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be> |
| Subject: | holes in wing ribs & wires |
Deburring the ribs before priming and having made an extra hole of 0.750
inch according the Vans drawing in their FAQ section, I still have this
questions:
I plan to use the Duct NT 5/8-50 conduit for the wiring of nav light (LED),
strobe and maybe halogen landing light in the wing tips.
The Bob Archer VOR antenna in the wing tip seems very interesting.
Is it good practice to run the coax cable for such Vor antenna in the same
conduit?
Should I make other holes in the ribs for wires or tubes, maybe for an Efis
that I plan. I suppose it is much easier now than later.
Thanks.
Jef in Belgium; 91031.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com> |
Listers
What's the general thinking re side slipping. I seem to recall a posting sugesting
this manouver should not be carried out with full flaps deployed. Input would
be most helpful in planning finals into short strips.
Neil Henderson RV9A G-CCZT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Side Sliping |
In a 172, slips should be 'avoided' with flaps extended. This is
different than 'prohibited'. The reason I was told is that both flap
extension and slipping change the airflow over the elevator and pitch
authority is compromised. Doing both at the same time makes it worse.
That said, if you practice it and know how the aircraft responds, it
quite an effective maneuver. On a low wing aircraft, however, slipping
has it's own hazards... potential fuel starvation from the low wing, for
example.
Having said all that... who's got real-world experience with this?
Vern Little -9A
Neil Henderson wrote:
>
>Listers
>
>What's the general thinking re side slipping. I seem to recall a posting sugesting
this manouver should not be carried out with full flaps deployed. Input would
be most helpful in planning finals into short strips.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9A G-CCZT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
I could be wrong here but I thought flaps in the early 172's w/ 40
degrees of flap were to be avoided. I used to slip a 1972 172 that our
club used to have all the time. The nose would bob up and down, nothing
bad, you just had to be aware of it. With 30 degrees, the plane
wouldn't do bob at all.
As for slipping an RV, I asked that question on www.vansairforce.net
forum and the reply was simple, don't worry, the RV's are great
slippers. My next question is, how is the -9 for spins?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv-9a-online
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Side Sliping
In a 172, slips should be 'avoided' with flaps extended. This is
different than 'prohibited'. The reason I was told is that both flap
extension and slipping change the airflow over the elevator and pitch
authority is compromised. Doing both at the same time makes it worse.
That said, if you practice it and know how the aircraft responds, it
quite an effective maneuver. On a low wing aircraft, however, slipping
has it's own hazards... potential fuel starvation from the low wing, for
example.
Having said all that... who's got real-world experience with this?
Vern Little -9A
Neil Henderson wrote:
>-->
>
>Listers
>
>What's the general thinking re side slipping. I seem to recall a
>posting sugesting this manouver should not be carried out with full
>flaps deployed. Input would be most helpful in planning finals into
>short strips.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9A G-CCZT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Malwitz" <dmalwitz(at)adelphia.net> |
William D. Thompson describes this "pitch pumping" phenomenon in his book,
Cessna Wings for the World.
"When the larger dorsal fin was adopted in the 1972 C-172L, this side-slip
pitch phenomenon was eliminated, but the cautionary placard was retained.
In the higher powered C-172P and C-R172 the placard was applicable to a mild
'pumping' motion resulting from flap outboard-end vortex impingement on the
horizontal tail at some combinations of side-slip angle, power, and
airspeed."
Unless Vans says otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it in a low-wing
airplane. I think the flap outboard-end vortex in an RV misses the
horizontal stabilizer. [By the way, I've seen the flap outboard-end vortex
in a Boeing 757 during a misty landing and you don't want to be anywhere
near one, much worse than the wing-tip vortex.]
Regards,
Dan Malwitz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Repucci
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Side Sliping
I could be wrong here but I thought flaps in the early 172's w/ 40
degrees of flap were to be avoided. I used to slip a 1972 172 that our
club used to have all the time. The nose would bob up and down, nothing
bad, you just had to be aware of it. With 30 degrees, the plane
wouldn't do bob at all.
As for slipping an RV, I asked that question on www.vansairforce.net
forum and the reply was simple, don't worry, the RV's are great
slippers. My next question is, how is the -9 for spins?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv-9a-online
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Side Sliping
In a 172, slips should be 'avoided' with flaps extended. This is
different than 'prohibited'. The reason I was told is that both flap
extension and slipping change the airflow over the elevator and pitch
authority is compromised. Doing both at the same time makes it worse.
That said, if you practice it and know how the aircraft responds, it
quite an effective maneuver. On a low wing aircraft, however, slipping
has it's own hazards... potential fuel starvation from the low wing, for
example.
Having said all that... who's got real-world experience with this?
Vern Little -9A
Neil Henderson wrote:
>-->
>
>Listers
>
>What's the general thinking re side slipping. I seem to recall a
>posting sugesting this manouver should not be carried out with full
>flaps deployed. Input would be most helpful in planning finals into
>short strips.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9A G-CCZT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Here is a post that I copied a year ago from one of the lists. I slip
comfortably in my -9 and it works fine, but watch the nose.
Leland
RV9A with 34 hours
Yes full flap slips work just fine with the 9a, I have heard from others
that some of the other RVs dont slip well, but my 9a seems to nicely
come down if you slow it a bit and throw it into a slip.Now, cross
controlled stalls, thats another matter. There I was at 6000ft doing my
flight test cards like a good little test pilot... Hum ok, time for the
cross controlled stall series, slow down, feed in rudder and aileron
until fully crossed, keep pulling... holding.... bam Im inverted
looking up/down at the ground! Yikes, continue the roll through to right
side up. WOW what what that all about? Well, climb back to 6000 and try
it again, same thing... Hum, note to self, never feed in full rudder and
aileron while in the traffic pattern.Now dont get me wrong, you have to
have the nose way up, everything is looking very strange and feeling
totally out of any sense of normal before you even get close to this
happening, but it was fun! Andy
>
>From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51(at)btopenworld.com>
>Subject: RV9-List: Side Sliping
>
>
>Listers
>
>What's the general thinking re side slipping. I seem to recall a posting sugesting
>this manouver should not be carried out with full flaps deployed. Input would
>be most helpful in planning finals into short strips.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9A G-CCZT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rontyler <rontyler(at)earthlink.net> |
On Sep 18, 2005, at 8:42 AM, Leland wrote:
>
> ....Now, cross
> controlled stalls, thats another matter. There I was at 6000ft doing my
> flight test cards like a good little test pilot... Hum ok, time for the
> cross controlled stall series, slow down, feed in rudder and aileron
> until fully crossed, keep pulling... holding.... bam Im inverted
> looking up/down at the ground!
Howdy,
New to the list. I am considering an RV9a (as opposed to a tattered
old certified plane). I have a couple of questions, one regarding the
above statement. Due to the experimental nature it seems that there
would be a bit of the unknown when performing maneuvers such as these.
So, how do you conduct such "experiments" without worry of
over-stressing the a/c?
Secondly, I understand that the -9 is not fully aerobatically rated.
My assumption is the longer wingspan. Is there anything else? Is there
anything a person could reasonably do during the building process to
bring it up to aerobatic standards? Anybody know what +/- g's a -9 is
rated for?
Thanks for your time!
Regards, Ron Tyler
"First there was nothing... then it exploded"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
The -9 is rated for +4,4 and -1,8 G.
The wing skins on the -7 (aerobatic one) is thicker than the 9s wing skin.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
PU-JCI
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
So he went inverted and didn't rip the wings off ? I didn't know the 9 could
do that safely.. is a roll considered aerobatic ?
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
>
> The -9 is rated for +4,4 and -1,8 G.
> The wing skins on the -7 (aerobatic one) is thicker than the 9s wing skin.
> JC - Aracaju - Brasil
> PU-JCI
> Flying
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Side Slipping |
| From: | "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com> |
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY": rv9-list(at)matronics.com
It's not the maneuvers that rip wings off airplanes, it's the g's.
Flip, roll, tumble, loop, whatever while pulling less than +4.4 and
it'll do fine. If you want to do aerobatics then build an RV of any
number less than a 9. I once rode in a Pitts S-2B with a very competent
pilot and we did ALL kinds of wild stuff while only pulling about 5 g's.
More than one RV9 has done a loop. Kevin Shannon did when he built his
and a picture in the vansairforce website shows that Cameron K (forget
the full last name) must have in his too.
The RV-9 has thinner wing skins and longer wings, those are two of the
obvious reasons that it would not handle as much. +4.4 is better rated
than your average Cessna, Piper, etc. Most are normal category at +3.8.
If you have never been exposed to real g's, 4.4 is getting pretty
serious. In the Pitts we barely made it to 5 and only once, and that
was enough to get me feeling not so good.
Scott
#90598 Firewall Forward
N598SD reserved
Plainfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | Aerobatic, to be or not to be |
Hi there:
Just to remember, the turbulence create great G forces in an airplane.
An aerobatic aiplane supports G forces up to 9s like an EXTRA-300.
A normal or utility category is about 3,8 and an -9 is 4,4.
To make a good looping maneuver we must imput something around 3 Gs in an airplane.
Could imagine what will happen if the turbulence add more 3 Gs in a -9A during
the end
of a looping maneuver?
Go to -7 in order to do aerobatics.
The -9 is a wonderfull travelling machine.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
-9A
flying/travelling
PU-JCI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | C&S speed X fixed pitch prop |
Danny:
My -9 is flying with a beatifull fixed pitch three blade CATTO prop. But at 10.000
to
12.000 feet (due to high clouds) I felt the necessity of a variable pitch prop.
At the
time I was working in a firewall forward Ive never think about to spend some more
US$
and install a governor, cables and all of the stuff to upgrade to a C&S prop.
May be its your time now to think about it. Isnt it?
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
-9A
PU-JCI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
Ron, when you get the "9" kit, replace (almost) all of the parts with those
from a "7" kit and you will be fully aerobatic. Seriously, you can't make
the RV-9(a) aerobatic. When I'm letting down into KYUM and airspeed is near
the yellow arc, I always find a few bumps and at that moment, an image of
the wing spar/center spar attachment pops into my head. I always pull off a
little power at that point. This plane flies well, lands great and - at even
at today's gas prices - is fairly cheap to fly.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV 580 hrs, 21 states, Baja, and Oshkosh twice.
Yuma, AZ
Howdy, New to the list.
Secondly, I understand that the -9 is not fully
aerobatically rated.
My assumption is the longer wingspan. Is there anything
else? Is there
anything a person could reasonably do during the building
process to
bring it up to aerobatic standards?
Regards, Ron Tyler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Disher" <jdisher(at)intergate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side Slipping |
I have to wonder if that little stubby main spar with such a short overlap
area isn't a good bit weaker too.
John Disher
still chasing wheel pants around
-------Original Message-------
From: DellAngelo, Scott M
Date: 09/19/05 03:41:33
Subject: RV9-List: Re: Side Slipping
It's not the maneuvers that rip wings off airplanes, it's the g's.
Flip, roll, tumble, loop, whatever while pulling less than +4.4 and
it'll do fine. If you want to do aerobatics then build an RV of any
number less than a 9. I once rode in a Pitts S-2B with a very competent
pilot and we did ALL kinds of wild stuff while only pulling about 5 g's.
More than one RV9 has done a loop. Kevin Shannon did when he built his
and a picture in the vansairforce website shows that Cameron K (forget
the full last name) must have in his too.
The RV-9 has thinner wing skins and longer wings, those are two of the
obvious reasons that it would not handle as much. +4.4 is better rated
than your average Cessna, Piper, etc. Most are normal category at +3.8.
If you have never been exposed to real g's, 4.4 is getting pretty
serious. In the Pitts we barely made it to 5 and only once, and that
was enough to get me feeling not so good.
Scott
#90598 Firewall Forward
N598SD reserved
Plainfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rontyler <rontyler(at)earthlink.net> |
On Sep 19, 2005, at 8:13 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> Ron, when you get the "9" kit, replace (almost) all of the parts with
> those
> from a "7" kit and you will be fully aerobatic. Seriously, you can't
> make
> the RV-9(a) aerobatic.
Thanks everyone for your replies!
I am really torn between the -7 and -9... sigh.
Regards, Ron Tyler
"Enjoy being here while getting there."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Malwitz" <dmalwitz(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | C&S speed X fixed pitch prop |
JC,
I am curious. What happened at 10 to 12 thousand feet?
Dan
Planning an RV-9
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: RV9-List: C&S speed X fixed pitch prop
Danny:
My -9 is flying with a beatifull fixed pitch three blade CATTO prop. But at
10.000 to
12.000 feet (due to high clouds) I felt the necessity of a variable pitch
prop. At the
time I was working in a firewall forward Ive never think about to spend some
more US$
and install a governor, cables and all of the stuff to upgrade to a C&S
prop.
May be its your time now to think about it. Isnt it?
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
-9A
PU-JCI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Gardner [mailto:ibspud(at)adelphia.net]
Subject: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet
Well, an archive search didn't turn up any hits but I thought I remembered a
posting about a spreadsheet program that would print a correction card.
Anyone familiar with this?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR |
| Subject: | C&S speed X fixed pitch prop |
Hy Danny;
Adjusting the mixture we clearly note the reducing in the airspeed. Something like
130kt
IAS. The fixed prop is very eficient in just one small range of density altitude.
With a
variable pitch is possible to increase the prop eficiency.
Now I know it would be good to build provisions for an upgrade from fixed prop
to a C&S
prop.
JC - Aracaju - Brasil
PU-JCI
#90997
Flying good
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dmalwitz(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | C&S speed X fixed pitch prop |
JC,
That makes sense. The propeller advance ratio, J = V/(N*D), where V is TRUE airspeed.
I like the simplicity of the fixed prop, but to go fast up high (145
KIAS at 10 to 15 thousand feet) I'll need to use a constant speed prop. You've
been a great help.
Obrigado,
Dan
---- jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR wrote:
>
> Hy Danny;
> Adjusting the mixture we clearly note the reducing in the airspeed. Something
like 130kt
> IAS. The fixed prop is very eficient in just one small range of density altitude.
With a
> variable pitch is possible to increase the prop eficiency.
> Now I know it would be good to build provisions for an upgrade from fixed prop
to a C&S
> prop.
> JC - Aracaju - Brasil
> PU-JCI
> #90997
> Flying good
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Registration fees and sales tax |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0236 1.0000 -4.1506
Fellow builders,
I am a few years away from completing my RV-7 but I wanted to find more information
about some of the aircraft registration costs others are paying for the RV's.
In addition if there is a one time sales tax payment required to register
the aircraft. I had heard that here in Arizona they will asses the aircraft
and charge you a sales tax if no sales taxes were paid on or all parts of the
kit project. Since most of us are purchasing our kits and engines from out of
state, there isn't any state sales tax charged when purchasing.
I don't want to start any rumors, just trying to get the facts.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Registration fees and sales tax |
When you register the plane with the feds, AZ will send you a form that
they will use to calculate the amount of tax. I called and told them the
plane was not yet done and they said tell them when it was finished. Unlike
many others I had listed a value on the bill-of-sale I included with the
application for federal registration. It's not required by the feds and I
suggest you leave it blank. After the plane was flying I contacted AZ tax
people and paid the one-time tax (about 7 or 8% I think). There is no legal
way to get around AZ tax for most of us.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hollis Walter" <ardhlmsr(at)eocc.com> |
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and normal Ci-ialis because:
- Guarantes 36 hours lasting
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- Proven and c-ertified by e-xperts and d-octors
- only $2 per tabs
- Special offeer! These prices
- are valid u-ntil 30th of September !
Cllick hereee: http://gsullivan-consulting.com
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argue fine barycentric mushroom atlantes ernie immobile bough
shitepoke bayesian presentational whup anteroom debby accumulate grenade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Disher" <jdisher(at)intergate.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Registration fees and sales tax |
Here in South Carolina we have that plus Personal Property Tax issues. I
have an H-35 Bonanza that they felt deserved to pay a $1400.00 a year PPT
and then I built a Kitfox, and I got an inquiry from the Assessors Office as
to its value. I told them in that the legal definition of value is what a
willing buyer and a willing seller will exchange an item for, and I will
never sell the airplane because of liability issues, it has no value. They
weren't buying that, and said that I had to affix a value. I told them that
I was sure it was worth more than my neighbors gun collection, but surely
worth less than his wife's antique furniture collection, How much do they
pay? They said that they pay nothing because those things don't have a title
and they only tax titled items, so because my hobby produces an item that it
titled, I have to pay tax. I told them that I realized everybody needs to
pay their fair share and I am willing to do that, so long as it is
reasonable, but if they get carried away on the Kitfox like they did on that
40+ year old Bonanza, I would spend $300.00 to form a Delaware Corporation,
which would then own the airplanes, and they would get nothing. They sent
out a $1250.00 tax bill on the Kitfox and now I have a Management
Corporation that owns both airplanes and it costs me about $150.00 a year
for Corporate tax and the fee for the Delaware Company that handles
everything for out of state Corporation owners.
You might want to look into this.
-------Original Message-------
From: Albert Gardner
Date: 09/21/05 20:54:35
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Aircraft Registration fees and sales tax
When you register the plane with the feds, AZ will send you a form that
they will use to calculate the amount of tax. I called and told them the
plane was not yet done and they said tell them when it was finished. Unlike
many others I had listed a value on the bill-of-sale I included with the
application for federal registration. It's not required by the feds and I
suggest you leave it blank. After the plane was flying I contacted AZ tax
people and paid the one-time tax (about 7 or 8% I think). There is no legal
way to get around AZ tax for most of us.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Robertson <gary.robertson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
Darn good question. As the Rita winds blew through DFW, Texas, I watched a questionable
OLD tree (HUGE) that leans over my outside workshop (hangar:) I wondered
what would happen should a limb break and come crashing down through the
roof. These are 40-50' limbs, about 18" across. All my completed empennage
parts are hanging from the inside roof joists.
Gary Robertson
RV-9, Slider
Wings........
Bob Perkinson wrote:
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
Bob,
Call the EAA insurance and they will provide builder coverage for a premium
of 1% of the value.
Bob Berube
RV-9
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Subject: RV9-List: Project Insurance
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
Bob, I have had very good luck with pricing and customer service from
SkySmith Insurance in Iowa. Glenn in Arizona -9A fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Project Insurance
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
> per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
> concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
Check again with your home owners, mine (Liberty Mutual) does cover the
project as long as it is in the house. I doubt it will cover my time,
which is something I need to clarify with my agent.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Subject: RV9-List: Project Insurance
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost
me per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they
are concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICK LUCK <rluck(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Air Filter - Air Box Installation |
In doing the annual on my RV, our A&P has found kind of an unusual air fitler installation.
As you guys probably know, the bottom of the accelerator pump extends
about 1/2" below the surface of the carburator, where the top of the air
box is attached. The accerator pump bottom then extends about 1/2" into the
air box. Unfortunately, where it protrudes into the air box just happens to line
up exactly with where the edge of the air filter mates up to the top of the
air box. The solution that the builder of my plane used was to simply cut out
a knotch in the air filter gasket edge about 1/2" and then re-form a new seal
around the accelerator pump w/ RTV silicone. We're looking for an improvement,
to eliminate the possibility of some RTV material becoming dislodged from
the makeshift gasket and being ingested into the carb. We've looked at offsetting
the air box so it's not centered on the carb inlet but then we're worried
about missalignment with the air inlet in the cowling.
We've also discussed using an automotive air filter that consists of a wire basket
and foam filter, thinking we could deform the wire basket to mis the accerator
pump hump and the foam would still conform to the basket, essentially creating
a filter that wasn't perfectly round. Have any of you run into this problem
and if so, what was your solution? Thanks for the help. Rick Luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Air Filter - Air Box Installation |
I built a spacer out of alum (I was thinking it was 5/8" but maybe only
1/2") so that I didn't have to modify the filter. As I recall, Van's
solution was as described below and apparently works OK. With the spacer you
have to tilt the air box up slightly also.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
In doing the annual on my RV, our A&P has found kind of an unusual air
fitler installation. As you guys probably know, the bottom of the
accelerator pump extends about 1/2" below the surface of the carburator,
where the top of the air box is attached. The accerator pump bottom then
extends about 1/2" into the air box. Unfortunately, where it protrudes into
the air box just happens to line up exactly with where the edge of the air
filter mates up to the top of the air box. The solution that the builder of
my plane used was to simply cut out a knotch in the air filter gasket edge
about 1/2" and then re-form a new seal around the accelerator pump w/ RTV
silicone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Filter - Air Box Installation |
It sounds like the builder followed Van's instructions on installing
the air filter. The instructions do state to take care that there are
no loose pieces of sealant that could be sucked into the intake.
There may be a better solution, but this is the way mine is, and I
would expect just about every other RV has theirs done the same way.
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Sep 26, 2005, at 10:33 AM, RICK LUCK wrote:
>
> In doing the annual on my RV, our A&P has found kind of an unusual
> air fitler installation. As you guys probably know, the bottom of
> the accelerator pump extends about 1/2" below the surface of the
> carburator, where the top of the air box is attached. The
> accerator pump bottom then extends about 1/2" into the air box.
> Unfortunately, where it protrudes into the air box just happens to
> line up exactly with where the edge of the air filter mates up to
> the top of the air box. The solution that the builder of my plane
> used was to simply cut out a knotch in the air filter gasket edge
> about 1/2" and then re-form a new seal around the accelerator pump
> w/ RTV silicone. We're looking for an improvement, to eliminate
> the possibility of some RTV material becoming dislodged from the
> makeshift gasket and being ingested into the carb. We've looked at
> offsetting the air box so it's not centered on the carb inlet but
> then we're worried about missalignment with the air inlet in the cowl!
> ing.
> We've also discussed using an automotive air filter that consists
> of a wire basket and foam filter, thinking we could deform the wire
> basket to mis the accerator pump hump and the foam would still
> conform to the basket, essentially creating a filter that wasn't
> perfectly round. Have any of you run into this problem and if so,
> what was your solution? Thanks for the help. Rick Luck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
I got mine through Falcon. (referred by EAA) 1% of the covered value seems to
be standard. I now have my regular insurance with Falcon. They beat Avemco by
a mile!
Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Air Filter - Air Box Installation |
This is how the SJ cowl handles the air filter. They use a cone shaped K&N
filter. I'm not sure if this could be adapted to the Van's cowling setup or
not.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/files/banjobox0025.JPG
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/filter_housing.jpg
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Follow-up - BPE Engine Rebuild Seminar |
This past Saturday, in front of 27 fellow aviators and with the assistance
of Allen and Mike from Barrett Precision Engines
(http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com), I rebuilt my Lycoming O-320-D2J.
I purchased this engine almost two years ago and decided that it needed an
overhaul before flying. I tossed out the idea of an engine rebuild seminar
for our local EAA chapter members to Allen Barrett at BPE and he bit. I
wanted to be involved in the tear down and rebuild of the engine but didn't
feel comfortable doing it myself. Allen saw an opportunity to share his
wealth of knowledge and get some exposure out of the deal. It was a perfect
match.
On Friday, May 13th, my wife and I drove down to Tulsa, OK (from Kansas
City) and we took the engine apart with the assistance of their lead shop
tech Mike. It went very smoothly and only took a couple of hours. The
other shop people got a kick out of some farm boy from Kansas tearing an
engine apart. (Pictures at: http://n523rv.com/engine). We were generally
pleased with the condition of the engine, however, things took a bad turn
for the worse when the crank was rejected for pitting, the pistons had
cracks and the mags were shot. We moved forward with the overhaul and set a
date of September 24th for the seminar. I promoted the seminar in various
places, primarily among our local EAA chapters.
Saturday, September 24th arrived and it was a perfect day. Allen and Mike
arrived the night before with all the pieces of the engine and had it all
setup in EAA Chapter 91's hangar ready to go. We started the day at 8:00
with some coffee and donuts while Allen talked about the process we were
about to through. We also talked about how to purchase engine cores and
what to watch for. (The city decided that it would be a good day to repave
the only road leading to the airport, so we gave attendee's a little extra
time to arrive.)
About 9:00am we moved to the hangar area to start the build. All of the
parts had been previously checked and dimensioned, so it was merely a task
of assembling the parts. Since this was my engine, I worked with Mike to do
the assembly while Allen narrated and fielded questions. We broke for lunch
around 12:00 at which point we had the case halves on and the accessory had
just been bolted on. My wife served us a wonder lunch of lasagna, salad and
garlic bread. After lunch we went back out and finished assembling the
engine with completion coming around 5:15 or so. We stopped several times
throughout the day to let people come up and get a closer look at what we
had done. (Can't have 27 people standing around you at once.)
It's actually quite amazing that we ran into no major issues. Allen and
Mike brought every part and every tool we needed to assemble the engine.
Early in the day, they realized that we were missing a castle nut for the
oil pump housing. The plan was to continue with the build and they would
remove the accessory case from the engine when they got the engine back to
Tulsa and replace the nut. Just as we were finishing up installing the
accessory case, Mike pulled out the fittings for the oil cooler lines to
install and found the castle nut nicely sitting inside one of them!
Obviously be careful where nuts and bolts can fall. During lunch, Mike and
Allen pulled the accessory case off and installed the nut and safetied the
oil pump housing. The other small issue that came up at the very wend was
not having a push-rod the correct length to bring one of the rockers into
tolerance. I was no big deal as they installed one as soon as they got back
to Tulsa.
FINAL ANALYSIS:
The engine seminar was a great idea and it came together very well. All of
the participants were extremely appreciative of the opportunity. Mike,
Allen and the crew at BPE were fantastic to work with. I'm certainly glad
that I did not attempt the overhaul on my own, the engines are pretty basic
but there are a lot of things you need to know. I'll never again purchase a
used engine!
If you need an engine or an engine overhaul, give Allen a call... you won't
be sorry. (918-835-1089)
Thanks go out to my wife for making lunch and the members of EAA Chapter 91
for allowing us to use their beautiful hangar!
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Builder assistance available |
Greetings
You want an RV but don't have the time to build it.
I can help.
I am a machinist by trade. I completed an RV-6 in 2200 hrs. (no
prepunced holes) and assisted on 2 others.
I am available to work on a project full time.
I am located in Lodi, CA.
Bud Newhall
RV-6(at)comcast.net
209-334-2911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Flap & aileron attach brackets. |
Hello everyone. Question: I am preparing to install the flap attach brackets (925-a)
to the ribs and was wondering if I could do this before installing the top
wing skins. In theory this would make the riviting easier by allowing me to
use the squeezer for all. Am I missing something? Would not installing the skins
not give the skeleton enough rigidity to allow for proper bracket install?
Your input would be welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap & aileron attach brackets. |
Good question. I asked Bruce Reynolds at Van's this very thing. He didn't
know if it was ok (he hasn't built a 9) but thought it was. Also asked
Scott Risan (also of Van's) and he felt it was fine. I know of at least one
builder who has done this also.
So, I did it that way but I haven't got the top skins on yet so I'm not sure
if there are any traps here. I can tell you that my squeezer doesn't want
to do rivets that long so I used a 3x gun. However, you are absolutely
right that riveting is a lot easier with the top skins off. One thing I did
do was to have either a top or bottom skin clecoed on to guarantee alignment
when I drilled the brackets and when I drove the first one or two rivets on
each.
There is also a bit of a story regarding aligning the middle flap hangar if
you're interested.
Bill in Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap & aileron attach brackets.
>
> Hello everyone. Question: I am preparing to install the flap attach
brackets (925-a) to the ribs and was wondering if I could do this before
installing the top wing skins. In theory this would make the riviting easier
by allowing me to use the squeezer for all. Am I missing something? Would
not installing the skins not give the skeleton enough rigidity to allow for
proper bracket install? Your input would be welcome.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | DRDT-2 dimpling tool at the Copperstate Fly-In Oct 7-8th |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.1887 1.0000 -1.9730
Fellow RV builders,
The ExperimentalAero DRDT-2 dimpling tool (experimentalaero.com) will at the Avery
Tool booth at the CopperState Fly-in (Casa Grande, AZ) next weekend Oct 7-8th.
Stop by and give it a test drive.
Sincerely,
Paul Merems
ExperimentalAero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Flap & aileron attach brackets. |
The double offset rivet set I bought from Averys did the job without
deviating from the plans/manual. Perhaps a bit uncomfortable, but get used
to it...the fuse kit is next! Also, my middle flap bracket aligned perfectly
with no adjustment. Thanks Vans!
Mike
SC 9A fuse...hoping to roll over the canoe this week
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chenoweth
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Flap & aileron attach brackets.
Good question. I asked Bruce Reynolds at Van's this very thing. He didn't
know if it was ok (he hasn't built a 9) but thought it was. Also asked
Scott Risan (also of Van's) and he felt it was fine. I know of at least one
builder who has done this also.
So, I did it that way but I haven't got the top skins on yet so I'm not sure
if there are any traps here. I can tell you that my squeezer doesn't want
to do rivets that long so I used a 3x gun. However, you are absolutely
right that riveting is a lot easier with the top skins off. One thing I did
do was to have either a top or bottom skin clecoed on to guarantee alignment
when I drilled the brackets and when I drove the first one or two rivets on
each.
There is also a bit of a story regarding aligning the middle flap hangar if
you're interested.
Bill in Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Flap & aileron attach brackets.
>
> Hello everyone. Question: I am preparing to install the flap attach
brackets (925-a) to the ribs and was wondering if I could do this before
installing the top wing skins. In theory this would make the riviting easier
by allowing me to use the squeezer for all. Am I missing something? Would
not installing the skins not give the skeleton enough rigidity to allow for
proper bracket install? Your input would be welcome.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming 360 MT Propeller 183-59 blade echange offer |
Hi All,
MT Propeller and Less Drag Products, Inc. is offering a blade exchange
program for the Lycoming 360 3 blade MT Propeller.
If you have the MTV-12, or MTV-18, 3 blade MT Propeller on your Lycoming 360
engine, you can exchange your present 183-59 blades for the new 183-59b
blades.
You might be interested in this offer if you would like to remove the mid
range RPM restriction on your Lycoming 360 engine, and increase your cruise
speed by about 5 mph.
MT Propeller is offering to exchange your present three 183-59 blades with a
new set of 183-59b blades for about the same price as a single 183-59b blade.
(The list price for a single replacement 183-59b blade is $2,430.)
Less Drag Products, Inc. will coordinate the actual blade set replacement
for your propeller, based on your location and replacement blade set
availability.
Please contact Less Drag Products, Inc. directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_
(mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com) to obtain a schedule and cost estimate.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
(805) 499-8646 FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
1.66 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
1.28 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.36 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
done here ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
inspections...
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>done here ?
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
g
>
>
> Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> inspections...
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >done here ?
> >
> >__g__
> >
> >==========================================================
> >Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather than rivets
so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
nut plates giving you access.
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
>
>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
>
>g
>
>
>
>>
>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
>>inspections...
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>>>done here ?
>>>
>>>__g__
>>>
>>>==========================================================
>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
the floor is installed.
I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
- they are real flimsy.
g
>
>
> Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
> floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
> you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
> preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
> than rivets
> so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
> corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
> nut plates giving you access.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
> >tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
> >the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
> >the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
> >nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
> >floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
> >pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
> >used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
> >
> >Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
> >
> >g
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> >>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> >>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> >>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> >>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> >>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> >>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> >>inspections...
> >>
> >>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >>>done here ?
> >>>
> >>>__g__
> >>>
> >>>==========================================================
> >>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> >>> Tel: 415 203 9177
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
Gerry, You are correct. The rib flange is toward the (center) tunnel.
It has been a long time since I worked on the center section of the fuse
and I was thinking the flange was towards the outside.
I live in South Fla and with the high humidity and living so close to
the ocean, corrosion is a big problem . That is why I made all of the
floors removable buy using nut plates.
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
>their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
>out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
>right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
>and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
>the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
>the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
>the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
>the floor is installed.
>
>I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
>for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
>that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
>past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
>bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
>corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
>I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
>- they are real flimsy.
>
>g
>
>
>
>>
>>Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
>>floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
>>you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
>>preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
>>than rivets
>>so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
>>corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
>>nut plates giving you access.
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
>>>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
>>>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
>>>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
>>>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
>>>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
>>>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
>>>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
>>>
>>>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
>>>
>>>g
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
>>>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
>>>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
>>>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
>>>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
>>>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
>>>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
>>>>inspections...
>>>>
>>>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>>>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>>>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>>>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>>>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>>>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>>>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>>>>>done here ?
>>>>>
>>>>>__g__
>>>>>
>>>>>==========================================================
>>>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>>>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your taking the time to discuss the
options ...
g
>
>
> Gerry, You are correct. The rib flange is toward the (center)
> tunnel.
> It has been a long time since I worked on the center section of
> the fuse
> and I was thinking the flange was towards the outside.
> I live in South Fla and with the high humidity and living so close to
> the ocean, corrosion is a big problem . That is why I made all of the
> floors removable buy using nut plates.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
> >their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
> >out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
> >right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
> >and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
> >the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
> >the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
> >the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
> >the floor is installed.
> >
> >I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
> >for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
> >that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
> >past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
> >bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
> >corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
> >I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
> >- they are real flimsy.
> >
> >g
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
> >>floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
> >>you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
> >>preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
> >>than rivets
> >>so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
> >>corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
> >>nut plates giving you access.
> >>
> >>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
> >>>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
> >>>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
> >>>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
> >>>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
> >>>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
> >>>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
> >>>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
> >>>
> >>>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
> >>>
> >>>g
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> >>>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> >>>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> >>>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> >>>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> >>>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> >>>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> >>>>inspections...
> >>>>
> >>>>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >>>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >>>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >>>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >>>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >>>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >>>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >>>>>done here ?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>__g__
> >>>>>
> >>>>>==========================================================
> >>>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> >>>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | KitLog Pro-first use |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Fellow RV builders,
I just installed KitLog Pro and started using it. I am finishing up my RV-7A fuselage
and I have been less then diligent in entering daily progress in my Excel
spread sheet that I was using as a building log. While I was up at the Copperstate
Fly-in I passed by the KitLog booth and spent a few minutes with Paul
Besing and I let him try to convince me why I should part with my money when
I had my Excel log working. After a few minutes I realized that I could do more
with the KitLog then my Excel spreadsheet log. I also realized that KitLog
may just help me be more diligent with my entries. In addition the reports
you can create will definitely help when it comes time to prepare for aircraft
certification.
I installed the program without incident and I was up and running. Now I can take
all my digital photos and organize them in the log. This is something I couldn't
do with my Excel spreadsheet. In addition I can post them to the KitLog
website so others can see them or just for a second backup to my computer.
The only things I wish it could do is while entering the data randomly pop-up inspirational
messages like:
"Your doing a great job"
"Looks like a Grand Champion in the making"
"Now you only have 29,999 rivets to go"
"Your in the home stretch"
"Measure twice cut once"
Food for thought
Paul Merems (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
I have just installed the C627 spring on the WD620 canopy jettison handle. Spring
won't compress enough to allow release pins to clear WD716 canopy frame for
jettison. Checked for proper clocking of WD619 canopy release shaft, and ears
point outboard as directed. Without the spring everything works perfectly.
It appears that the spring is too heavy a guage to permit the almost 3 to 1 compression
required by the full stroke. Any experiences on this? RV9A finishing
C-FYOO (reserve) Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Bottjen" <cbottjen(at)midlands.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/15/05 |
I would like to unsubscribe from this group. Thank you.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV9-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/15/05
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
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RV9-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sat 10/15/05: 1
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:19 PM - KitLog Pro-first use (Merems)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV9-List: KitLog Pro-first use
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Fellow RV builders,
I just installed KitLog Pro and started using it. I am finishing up my
RV-7A fuselage
and I have been less then diligent in entering daily progress in my Excel
spread sheet that I was using as a building log. While I was up at the
Copperstate
Fly-in I passed by the KitLog booth and spent a few minutes with Paul
Besing and I let him try to convince me why I should part with my money when
I had my Excel log working. After a few minutes I realized that I could do
more
with the KitLog then my Excel spreadsheet log. I also realized that KitLog
may just help me be more diligent with my entries. In addition the reports
you can create will definitely help when it comes time to prepare for
aircraft
certification.
I installed the program without incident and I was up and running. Now I
can take
all my digital photos and organize them in the log. This is something I
couldn't
do with my Excel spreadsheet. In addition I can post them to the KitLog
website so others can see them or just for a second backup to my computer.
The only things I wish it could do is while entering the data randomly
pop-up inspirational
messages like:
"Your doing a great job"
"Looks like a Grand Champion in the making"
"Now you only have 29,999 rivets to go"
"Your in the home stretch"
"Measure twice cut once"
Food for thought
Paul Merems (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Russ" <russra(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy jettison |
Randy: I had the same problem. I drilled another hole about 1.75" down and
stretched out the spring. Works fine. Ron Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca>
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy jettison
>
> I have just installed the C627 spring on the WD620 canopy jettison handle.
> Spring won't compress enough to allow release pins to clear WD716 canopy
> frame for jettison. Checked for proper clocking of WD619 canopy release
> shaft, and ears point outboard as directed. Without the spring everything
> works perfectly. It appears that the spring is too heavy a guage to permit
> the almost 3 to 1 compression required by the full stroke. Any
> experiences on this? RV9A finishing C-FYOO (reserve) Randy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity is |
your gain.
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
1.66 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
1.28 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.36 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger and I opted
for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the shelf
mocking me ...
Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for the price of
one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came from Vans.
First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received gets them.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> is your gain. |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
Gerry,
Why not put them on a tail dragger?
I am building the 9 as well and although I have never seen a 9 in person I
have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some) have steps. Is the 9
low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
Mike Ice
Anchorage, AK.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity
is your gain.
>
> What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger and I opted
> for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the shelf
> mocking me ...
>
> Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for the price of
> one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
>
> They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came from Vans.
> First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received gets them.
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Robertson <gary.robertson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
Mike & Gerry,
I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area of Texas. A local builder
has what I believe is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this plane in person,
and while I didn't physically get up into the cockpit, the wing is very low,
and looks VERY easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9 if you
send your email address, I will fwd them. It is a beautiful bird!
Take care,
Gary Robertson
-9, About to start on wings......
"Michael T. Ice" , UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS(at).SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
Gerry,
Why not put them on a tail dragger?
I am building the 9 as well and although I have never seen a 9 in person I
have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some) have steps. Is the 9
low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
Mike Ice
Anchorage, AK.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby"
Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity
is your gain.
>
> What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger and I opted
> for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the shelf
> mocking me ...
>
> Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for the price of
> one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
>
> They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came from Vans.
> First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received gets them.
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
There is no point to te steps on the tail dragger, the wing
walk is plenty low enough to the ground to step up. All you
achieve by adding them is extra drag !
g
>
>
>
> Mike & Gerry,
>
> I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area of Texas.
> A local builder has what I believe is the first -9 to fly. I
> recently saw this plane in person, and while I didn't
> physically get up into the cockpit, the wing is very low, and
> looks VERY easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9
> if you send your email address, I will fwd them. It is a
> beautiful bird!
>
> Take care,
>
> Gary Robertson
> -9, About to start on wings......
>
> "Michael T. Ice" ,
> UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
>
> Gerry,
>
> Why not put them on a tail dragger?
>
> I am building the 9 as well and although I have never seen a 9
> in person I
> have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some) have
> steps. Is the 9
> low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
>
> Mike Ice
> Anchorage, AK.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby"
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ...
> My stupidity
> is your gain.
>
>
> >
> > What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger and I opted
> > for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the shelf
> > mocking me ...
> >
> > Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for the price of
> > one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
> >
> > They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came from Vans.
> > First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received gets them.
> >
> > __g__
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
Hi Gerry,
No you certainly don't need steps on a 9. Even small
children easily step over the flaps onto the wingwalk.
To the folks in Texas who thinks they are the first
taildragger 9, I'm really curious. When was the first
flight? I have always thought mine was the first to
fly. See this year's Van's calender, month of March.
My first flight was 2/22/04.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9,N164DV
236 hours and loving it
--- Gary Robertson
wrote:
>
>
> Mike & Gerry,
>
> I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
> area of Texas. A local builder has what I believe
> is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this plane
> in person, and while I didn't physically get up into
> the cockpit, the wing is very low, and looks VERY
> easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9
> if you send your email address, I will fwd them. It
> is a beautiful bird!
>
> Take care,
>
> Gary Robertson
> -9, About to start on wings......
>
> "Michael T. Ice" ,
> UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
> your gain.
>
> Gerry,
>
> Why not put them on a tail dragger?
>
> I am building the 9 as well and although I have
> never seen a 9 in person I
> have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some)
> have steps. Is the 9
> low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
>
> Mike Ice
> Anchorage, AK.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby"
> To:
> Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left &
> right) ... My stupidity
> is your gain.
>
>
> >
> > What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger
> and I opted
> > for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the
> shelf
> > mocking me ...
> >
> > Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for
> the price of
> > one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
> >
> > They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came
> from Vans.
> > First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received
> gets them.
> >
> > __g__
> >
> >
>
==========================================================
> > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
The first flight of N9TD (a Texas RV-9) was made by Dave Austin on Jan
30th 2004.. The aircraft was built and owned by Tin Donham.
I now own the airplane.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My
stupidity is your gain.
>
> Hi Gerry,
> No you certainly don't need steps on a 9. Even small
> children easily step over the flaps onto the wingwalk.
>
> To the folks in Texas who thinks they are the first
> taildragger 9, I'm really curious. When was the first
> flight? I have always thought mine was the first to
> fly. See this year's Van's calender, month of March.
> My first flight was 2/22/04.
>
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9,N164DV
> 236 hours and loving it
> --- Gary Robertson
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Mike & Gerry,
>>
>> I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
>> area of Texas. A local builder has what I believe
>> is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this plane
>> in person, and while I didn't physically get up into
>> the cockpit, the wing is very low, and looks VERY
>> easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9
>> if you send your email address, I will fwd them. It
>> is a beautiful bird!
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> Gary Robertson
>> -9, About to start on wings......
>>
>> "Michael T. Ice" ,
>> UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
>> your gain.
>>
>> Gerry,
>>
>> Why not put them on a tail dragger?
>>
>> I am building the 9 as well and although I have
>> never seen a 9 in person I
>> have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some)
>> have steps. Is the 9
>> low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
>>
>> Mike Ice
>> Anchorage, AK.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gerry Filby"
>> To:
>> Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left &
>> right) ... My stupidity
>> is your gain.
>>
>>
>> >
>> > What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger
>> and I opted
>> > for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the
>> shelf
>> > mocking me ...
>> >
>> > Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for
>> the price of
>> > one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
>> >
>> > They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came
>> from Vans.
>> > First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received
>> gets them.
>> >
>> > __g__
>> >
>> >
>>
> ==========================================================
>> > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>> > Tel: 415 203 9177
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Interesting point - I wonder how many 9s are now flying ?
>
>
> Hi Gerry,
> No you certainly don't need steps on a 9. Even small
> children easily step over the flaps onto the wingwalk.
>
> To the folks in Texas who thinks they are the first
> taildragger 9, I'm really curious. When was the first
> flight? I have always thought mine was the first to
> fly. See this year's Van's calender, month of March.
> My first flight was 2/22/04.
>
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9,N164DV
> 236 hours and loving it
> --- Gary Robertson
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Mike & Gerry,
> >
> > I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
> > area of Texas. A local builder has what I believe
> > is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this plane
> > in person, and while I didn't physically get up into
> > the cockpit, the wing is very low, and looks VERY
> > easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9
> > if you send your email address, I will fwd them. It
> > is a beautiful bird!
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> > Gary Robertson
> > -9, About to start on wings......
> >
> > "Michael T. Ice" ,
> > UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
> > your gain.
> >
> > Gerry,
> >
> > Why not put them on a tail dragger?
> >
> > I am building the 9 as well and although I have
> > never seen a 9 in person I
> > have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some)
> > have steps. Is the 9
> > low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
> >
> > Mike Ice
> > Anchorage, AK.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gerry Filby"
> > To:
> > Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left &
> > right) ... My stupidity
> > is your gain.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger
> > and I opted
> > > for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the
> > shelf
> > > mocking me ...
> > >
> > > Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for
> > the price of
> > > one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
> > >
> > > They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came
> > from Vans.
> > > First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received
> > gets them.
> > >
> > > __g__
> > >
> > >
> >
> ==========================================================
> > > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> > > Tel: 415 203 9177
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Robertson <gary.robertson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
Tim's plane is the one I was referring to when I said I had recently seen one.
Nice plane! It was also interesting hearing Tim's build story...as a fireman,
he had 48-hours stretches at a time to build, build, build (24-on, 48-off).
I enjoyed speaking with him. I know the -9 was his second RV to build, and it
is my understanding that he is now building a third.
Hey Vic, where are you located?
Gary Robertson
N104GR Reserved
-9 (working on wings)
Vic Jacko wrote:
The first flight of N9TD (a Texas RV-9) was made by Dave Austin on Jan
30th 2004.. The aircraft was built and owned by Tin Donham.
I now own the airplane.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My
stupidity is your gain.
>
> Hi Gerry,
> No you certainly don't need steps on a 9. Even small
> children easily step over the flaps onto the wingwalk.
>
> To the folks in Texas who thinks they are the first
> taildragger 9, I'm really curious. When was the first
> flight? I have always thought mine was the first to
> fly. See this year's Van's calender, month of March.
> My first flight was 2/22/04.
>
> Dennis Thomas
> RV-9,N164DV
> 236 hours and loving it
> --- Gary Robertson
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Mike & Gerry,
>>
>> I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
>> area of Texas. A local builder has what I believe
>> is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this plane
>> in person, and while I didn't physically get up into
>> the cockpit, the wing is very low, and looks VERY
>> easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this -9
>> if you send your email address, I will fwd them. It
>> is a beautiful bird!
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> Gary Robertson
>> -9, About to start on wings......
>>
>> "Michael T. Ice" ,
>> UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
>> your gain.
>>
>> Gerry,
>>
>> Why not put them on a tail dragger?
>>
>> I am building the 9 as well and although I have
>> never seen a 9 in person I
>> have seen lots of other tail dragger and they (some)
>> have steps. Is the 9
>> low enough that you can easily step up on the wing?
>>
>> Mike Ice
>> Anchorage, AK.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gerry Filby"
>> To:
>> Subject: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left &
>> right) ... My stupidity
>> is your gain.
>>
>>
>> >
>> > What a dummy ... I'm building the RV-9 taildragger
>> and I opted
>> > for the step kit. I'm tired of them sitting on the
>> shelf
>> > mocking me ...
>> >
>> > Van's list price is $170 - yours for $85 (2 for
>> the price of
>> > one) plus whatever shipping cost (PayPal).
>> >
>> > They're unpainted, raw steel - just as they came
>> from Vans.
>> > First email to gerf(at)gerf.com plus payment received
>> gets them.
>> >
>> > __g__
>> >
>> >
>>
> ==========================================================
>> > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>> > Tel: 415 203 9177
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit (left & right) ... My stupidity |
is your gain.
Wow! You beat me by 3 weeks and a day. I have always
told everyone I was first. I guess I will need to
back track.
Dennis Thomas
--- Vic Jacko wrote:
>
>
> The first flight of N9TD (a Texas RV-9) was made
> by Dave Austin on Jan
> 30th 2004.. The aircraft was built and owned by
> Tin Donham.
>
> I now own the airplane.
>
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: FOR SALE: RV-9A step kit
> (left & right) ... My
> stupidity is your gain.
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi Gerry,
> > No you certainly don't need steps on a 9. Even
> small
> > children easily step over the flaps onto the
> wingwalk.
> >
> > To the folks in Texas who thinks they are the
> first
> > taildragger 9, I'm really curious. When was the
> first
> > flight? I have always thought mine was the first
> to
> > fly. See this year's Van's calender, month of
> March.
> > My first flight was 2/22/04.
> >
> > Dennis Thomas
> > RV-9,N164DV
> > 236 hours and loving it
> > --- Gary Robertson
> > wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Mike & Gerry,
> >>
> >> I am building a -9 here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
> >> area of Texas. A local builder has what I
> believe
> >> is the first -9 to fly. I recently saw this
> plane
> >> in person, and while I didn't physically get up
> into
> >> the cockpit, the wing is very low, and looks VERY
> >> easy to step up on. I have a few photos of this
> -9
> >> if you send your email address, I will fwd them.
> It
> >> is a beautiful bird!
> >>
> >> Take care,
> >>
> >> Gary Robertson
> >> -9, About to start on wings......
> >>
> >> "Michael T. Ice" ,
> >> UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR.
> wrote:
> is
> >> your gain.
> >>
> >> Gerry,
> >>
> >> Why not put them on a tail dragger?
> >>
> >> I am building the 9 as well and although I have
> >> never seen a 9 in person I
> >> have seen lots of other tail dragger and they
> (some)
> >> have steps. Is the 9
> >> low enough that you can easily step up on the
> wing?
> >>
> >> Mike Ice
> >> Anchorage, AK.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Gerry Filby"
April 17, 2005 - October 23, 2005
RV9-Archive.digest.vol-ar