RV9-List Archive Browser

Contribution Page: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Why? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience over the commercial equivalents. I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists. I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and simple. Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the data you're looking for. And added just this year is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files. Additionally added this year is the new List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share. I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 23,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally, the List Email system forwarded well over 87,000 postings last year, accounting for an unbelievable 39,000,000 (yes, that's 39 MILLION) email messages delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_! I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message, Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites. The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual List Fund Raiser! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution!
Dear Listers, There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a look at some of them. Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks in and you won't receive any future messages from me regarding the Fund Raiser this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and now also the HTML and TXT links included with the Digest! (Note that for technical reasons, if someone replies to one of my contribution messages, the Squelch will _not_ be activated, and you will still receive it. Contribution messages will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse). Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a great Gift too! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ Tackling my project without the List would be like building on a deserted island. The List has made me part of a learning (and laughing) community. -Larry W Thank you for providing such a fantastic resource for us Kolbers. I'm very happy to contribute towards keeping such a wonderful resource available. -Geoff T ..you do a great service for the flying community by providing this service. -John L ..solidly administered. -James C A great source of information. -Ralph S The Lists have likely saved a numbers of lives... -James F ..exceptional user service. -Larry W Better than a magazine! -Aaron G Thanks to your List I will be able to finish and fly my project. Without the help of the great people on your List I doubt it would have happened. -Ed G I learn something on a too regular basis thanks to these lists! -Ralph C ..valuable service. -John F ..a well administered service. -Stewart C Great forum! -Ronald C A great service! -Andy H Been reading the lists since my first RV in 1999. Good work and as necessary to me as a rivet. -Albert G The lists are a great help. -Gary S This resource has been critical to my building success so far. -Timothy F Great system and support! -Richard P Very helpful in the building my CH 701. -Ralph S Another year of entertainment and pleasure! -Larry B A great resource for all of us. -Larry W Another year of great service! Once again, the information is worth more than I can ever contribute. Thank you also for the "community" that the List fosters. I cannot tell you the number of times that seeing an friend's name come up has caused so many awesome memories to come flooding back - along with the eager desire to gather with these great guys again. I love hearing the beginner's enthusiasm, the builder's progress, and the flyer's success... -Robert B Our list has great info and I love reading the "Flame Posts! " -Stephen M Great service! -James B Excellent source of information. -David P You provide a very valuable service to the aviation community. -David H The RV related lists have been a tremendous help in the construction of my RV-7... -Norman R Awesome list!! -John E Great bunch of guys and very knowledgeable! -Herbert G Thank you for making it so easy to stay in touch with my fellow RV-10 builders. -David J I love the list and have been a reader for a long time. -James V Continues to be a great service! -George A Awesome List server. -Deke M Many of us would never finish our airplanes without [the List]. With it, I'm getting close! -Ronald C An excellent source of both information and inspiration! -William R Forums and format are easy to use. -Jack B Great help with my kit building. -Ralph H Super service. -Richard N Still loving it. -Jared S You have a fantastic web! -Harvey R ..a great service. -James M Glad you are there... -David A I get some great information on your list. -John P Fantastic service. Couldn't have made it as far as I have without it. -Stephen T A great learning experience with my RV-6A. -Ron B Great resources! -Jason H Well done. Very valuable. -Jeffrey D Great resource for the experimental aircraft community. -Chris H This List has been one of the most helpful tools in building my RV-10, since I build alone, and do not have any help readily available. Without the List, I could not have embarked on building my RV-10. -Jim H You run a great list there. -James H Really like the Kolb List. -Don W ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List of Contributors Coming Soon - Make Sure You're Listed!
Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the List seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? :-) Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by droping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in the information technology industry for over 20 years primarily in computer networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web development and CGI design during this period. I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few. For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. The computer servers found here include a brand new, quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded to over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One month this Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone! I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email Lists. This year I added another rack to house the new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition of the second rack: http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister. But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you... and YOU! To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running! Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2006
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please Read]
Hello, I was an active lister and contributor while building my RV but now just occasionally read list items. I suppose I should send money but don't feel I'm really using the list now. I thought it was bit tacky for you to send your little money message a total of 30 times to my inbox in one mailing. Dennis Thomas RV9 316 hours --- Matt Dralle wrote: > > > > Dear Listers, > > Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? > Well, I've been working in the information > technology industry for over 20 years primarily in > computer networking design and implementation. I > have also done extensive work in web development and > CGI design during this period. > > I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 > with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the > world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds > of aircraft related Lists to the line up and > numerous other List related services such as the > Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to > name a few. > > For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to > run all of my own servers here locally. Other > List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully > switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade > Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local > T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business > T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. > > > The computer servers found here include a brand new, > quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web > services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system > dedicated to the email processing List functions, > and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote > storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and > for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with > 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded to > over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected > by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power > supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are > available even during a local power outage! > Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it > takes to run all of these systems. One month this > Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for > electricity alone! > > I recently upgraded all of the computer racking > infrastructure including new power feeds and > dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves > as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email > Lists. This year I added another rack to house the > new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't > quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite > photo of the List Computer Center before the > addition of the second rack: > > > http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg > > As you can see, I take running these Lists very > seriously and I am dedicated to providing an > always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every > Lister. > > But building and running this system isn't cheap. > As I've stated before, I don't support any of these > systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. > It is supported 100% through List member > Contributions! That means you... and you... and > YOU! > > To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November > and ask that members make a small Contribution to > support the continued operation and upgrade of this > ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR > Contributions that keeps it running! > > Please make a Contribution today to support these > Lists! > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: > > Matronics / Matt Dralle > PO Box 347 > Livermore CA 94551-0347 > USA > (Please include your email address on the > check!) > > Thank you! > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > > > > > Click on > about > provided > www.buildersbooks.com > Admin. > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please Read]
Dennis, Hum, I'm not sure what happened. I assure you that I only sent a single copy of the message to each list. There might have been a glitch in communication between your email client and your ISP's email server. I've seen this occur under certain circumstances. I apologize for the hassle. Something to keep in mind is that once you've made a contribution, even a very modest one, the Contrib Squelch kicks in and you will no longer receive contribution messages from me for the rest of the year. Best regards, Matt Dralle At 08:24 AM 11/28/2006 Tuesday, you wrote: > >Hello, >I was an active lister and contributor while building >my RV but now just occasionally read list items. >I suppose I should send money but don't feel I'm >really using the list now. >I thought it was bit tacky for you to send your little >money message a total of 30 times to my inbox in one >mailing. > >Dennis Thomas >RV9 316 hours > >--- Matt Dralle wrote: > >> >> >> >> Dear Listers, >> >> Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? >> Well, I've been working in the information >> technology industry for over 20 years primarily in >> computer networking design and implementation. I >> have also done extensive work in web development and >> CGI design during this period. >> >> I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 >> with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the >> world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds >> of aircraft related Lists to the line up and >> numerous other List related services such as the >> Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to >> name a few. >> >> For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to >> run all of my own servers here locally. Other >> List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully >> switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade >> Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local >> T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business >> T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. >> >> >> The computer servers found here include a brand new, >> quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web >> services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system >> dedicated to the email processing List functions, >> and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote >> storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and >> for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with >> 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded to >> over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected >> by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power >> supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are >> available even during a local power outage! >> Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it >> takes to run all of these systems. One month this >> Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for >> electricity alone! >> >> I recently upgraded all of the computer racking >> infrastructure including new power feeds and >> dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves >> as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email >> Lists. This year I added another rack to house the >> new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't >> quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite >> photo of the List Computer Center before the >> addition of the second rack: >> >> >> >http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg >> >> As you can see, I take running these Lists very >> seriously and I am dedicated to providing an >> always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every >> Lister. >> >> But building and running this system isn't cheap. >> As I've stated before, I don't support any of these >> systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. >> It is supported 100% through List member >> Contributions! That means you... and you... and >> YOU! >> >> To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November >> and ask that members make a small Contribution to >> support the continued operation and upgrade of this >> ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR >> Contributions that keeps it running! >> >> Please make a Contribution today to support these >> Lists! >> >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: >> >> Matronics / Matt Dralle >> PO Box 347 >> Livermore CA 94551-0347 >> USA >> (Please include your email address on the >> check!) >> >> Thank you! >> >> Matt Dralle >> Matronics Email List Administrator >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Click on >> about >> provided >> www.buildersbooks.com >> Admin. >> >> browse >> Subscriptions page, >> FAQ, >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List >> >> >> >> >> > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year...
Dear Listers, There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers. Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike MacKay" <starsailor(at)fidalgo.net>
Subject: Re: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year...
Date: Nov 29, 2006
Take me off you list, I don't apprecieate the spamming! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:36 AM Subject: RV9-List: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... > > > Dear Listers, > > There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! > Response has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of > people that have made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total > number of subscribers. > > Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the > Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your > Contributions during this Fund Raiser. > > Please make a Contribution today! > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Thank you! > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year...
Mike, If you don't like this list then take your self off of it. It isn't compulsory to be a member. You signed up, so remove your self. Just go to the Matronics web site and follow the directions. Bye, ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike MacKay <starsailor(at)fidalgo.net> Date: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 11:58 am Subject: Re: RV9-List: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... > > Take me off you list, I don't apprecieate the spamming! > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:36 AM > Subject: RV9-List: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... > > > > > > > > Dear Listers, > > > > There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund > Raiser! > > Response has been very good, but we are behind last year in the > number of > > people that have made a Contribution and as a percentage of the > total > > number of subscribers. > > > > Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial > advertising on the > > Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is > through your > > Contributions during this Fund Raiser. > > > > Please make a Contribution today! > > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > Thank you! > > > > Matt Dralle > > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Well, its November 30th and that means three things... 1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...) 2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser! 3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-) If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way to further the List operation and keep the bills paid. I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is on it! :-) Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly appreciated. List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the Lists. If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated! And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser! THANK YOU! http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this weekend. Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: fuel return lines
Date: Dec 08, 2006
How are folks running fuel return lines for fuel injected engines? Should they go all the way to the fuel tank? do you need a more complex valve that also selects which tank the returned fuel go to. Thanks for the wisdom. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: fuel return lines
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Wayne: you can either return fuel to the tank or - in the RV-10 IO-540 engine - we install a T-fitting just after the fuel selector and return fuel there. If you want to return fuel to the tank, some aircraft always return fuel to a specific tank but others use a fuel selector valve that selects a fuel return path at the same time you select a fuel source. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 6:22 AM Subject: RV9-List: fuel return lines How are folks running fuel return lines for fuel injected engines? Should they go all the way to the fuel tank? do you need a more complex valve that also selects which tank the returned fuel go to. Thanks for the wisdom. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: revenson(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: fuel return lines
Date: Dec 08, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: fuel return lines
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Wayne I have a -9A with a Subaru fuel injected engine. We make the return lines all the way back to each fuel tank, and we use a special 3 way - 2 level fuel valve from Andair. They call it Duplex fuel selector and I used model FS 25- 20. You can see what is our factory recommended fuel installation here. If your engine is not a car conversion, you can use the same system, except for the firewall forward part. Carlos RV-9A with Egg-Subaru H-6 Portugal ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:22 PM Subject: RV9-List: fuel return lines How are folks running fuel return lines for fuel injected engines? Should they go all the way to the fuel tank? do you need a more complex valve that also selects which tank the returned fuel go to. Thanks for the wisdom. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net>
Subject: Re: fuel return lines
Date: Dec 10, 2006
If you're going with a Silverhawk system (Precision/Bendix), I've heard that a return line is not needed. The Airflow Performance system requires a return line, however. Doug Fischer RV-9A Wings ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 8:22 AM Subject: RV9-List: fuel return lines How are folks running fuel return lines for fuel injected engines? Should they go all the way to the fuel tank? do you need a more complex valve that also selects which tank the returned fuel go to. Thanks for the wisdom. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Dec 10, 2006
My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the finishing kit instead? Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system everyone. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2006
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Hi Wayne, Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and create a half loop at the end and then hook it directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate 18 inch flex lines. Dennis Thomas --- Wayne wrote: > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the > finishing kit instead? > > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system > everyone. > Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 10, 2006
Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts? Steve Dwyer 90219 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 10, 2006
From: "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve(at)streiker.com>
Tape in the winter Stephen D. Streiker steve(at)streiker.com Los Angeles, CA M: +1 323 252 0277 ________________________________ From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:36 PM Subject: RV9-List: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts? Steve Dwyer 90219 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Date: Dec 11, 2006
Wayne, I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part labeled VA 188 but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines go from pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum tube from gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this connection. John Castor ----- Original Message ----- From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > Hi Wayne, > Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not > provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least > mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and > create a half loop at the end and then hook it > directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate > 18 inch flex lines. > > Dennis Thomas > --- Wayne wrote: > > > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two > > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the > > finishing kit instead? > > > > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system > > everyone. > > Wayne > > > -- 12/09/2006 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 11, 2006
----- Original Message ----- From: Streiker, Stephen D. To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:13 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents Tape in the winter Stephen D. Streiker steve(at)streiker.com Los Angeles, CA M: +1 323 252 0277 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:36 PM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV9-List: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts? Steve Dwyer 90219 www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9- List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 11, 2006
Guess that will work. Thanks Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Streiker, Stephen D. To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:13 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents Tape in the winter Stephen D. Streiker steve(at)streiker.com Los Angeles, CA M: +1 323 252 0277 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:36 PM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV9-List: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts? Steve Dwyer 90219 www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9- List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Fw: Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 11, 2006
I had good success with the following: was the inner surface of the eyeball to act as a release agent. seal the opening with black rtv on the surface of the "flapper" that moves toward open. when cured gently open and trim excess. no leaks. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com> Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts? Steve Dwyer 90219
I had good success with the following:

was the inner surface of the eyeball to act as a release agent.

seal the opening with black rtv on the surface of the "flapper" that moves toward open.

when cured gently open and trim excess. no leaks.

Wondering if anyone has discovered a cover or cap that will seal Vans standard fresh air vents into the cockpit. Flying my RV-9A in upstate NY now (70 hours) and air leaking thru the closed vents brings in to much cold air. Any thoughts?

Steve Dwyer 90219

________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Date: Dec 11, 2006
Thanks all. I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come in the finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't understand the logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. It sure looks like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch of aluminum on top of the pedals. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > Wayne, > I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part labeled VA 188 > but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines go from > pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum tube from > gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this connection. > John Castor > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > >> >> Hi Wayne, >> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not >> provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least >> mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and >> create a half loop at the end and then hook it >> directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate >> 18 inch flex lines. >> >> Dennis Thomas >> --- Wayne wrote: >> >> > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two >> > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the >> > finishing kit instead? >> > >> > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system >> > everyone. >> > Wayne >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- > 12/09/2006 >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Wayne, If you order the brake lines now don't forget to get the firewall doubler plate. You will still have access to the brake/rudder pedals for a long time but it easier to do now. Don't rivet on the front deck until you are absolutely sure you don't or won't need any more access to the front area. Mike Ice RV-9 Wiring, wiring, wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne <wowens(at)darientel.net> Date: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:45 am Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > Thanks all. > I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come > in the > finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't > understand the > logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. It > sure looks > like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch of > aluminum on > top of the pedals. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > > Wayne, > > I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part > labeled VA 188 > > but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines > go from > > pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum > tube from > > gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this > connection.> John Castor > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > >> > >> Hi Wayne, > >> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not > >> provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least > >> mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and > >> create a half loop at the end and then hook it > >> directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate > >> 18 inch flex lines. > >> > >> Dennis Thomas > >> --- Wayne wrote: > >> > >> > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two > >> > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the > >> > finishing kit instead? > >> > > >> > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system > >> > everyone. > >> > Wayne > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > > 12/09/2006 > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake lines
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2006
If I were building over again - I would get the finish and FFW kits at the same time as the fuselage kit - there are a number of tasks that step on each other if you follow the usual order emp>wings>fuse>finish>FFW. g > > > Thanks all. > I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come in the > finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't understand the > logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. > It sure looks > like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch > of aluminum on > top of the pedals. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > > Wayne, > > I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part labeled VA 188 > > but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines go from > > pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum tube from > > gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this connection. > > John Castor > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > >> > >> Hi Wayne, > >> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not > >> provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least > >> mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and > >> create a half loop at the end and then hook it > >> directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate > >> 18 inch flex lines. > >> > >> Dennis Thomas > >> --- Wayne wrote: > >> > >> > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two > >> > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the > >> > finishing kit instead? > >> > > >> > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system > >> > everyone. > >> > Wayne > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > > 12/09/2006 > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Gerry, I second your opinion, if space allowed I would want the entire kit ready all at once. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> Date: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:30 am Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > If I were building over again - I would get the finish and FFW > kits at the same time as the fuselage kit - there are a number > of tasks that step on each other if you follow the usual order > emp>wings>fuse>finish>FFW. > > g > > > > > > > Thanks all. > > I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come > in the > > finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't > understand the > > logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. > > It sure looks > > like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch > > of aluminum on > > top of the pedals. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > > > > > > Wayne, > > > I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part > labeled VA 188 > > > but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These > lines go from > > > pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum > tube from > > > gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this > connection.> > John Castor > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> > > > To: > > > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM > > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > > > > >> > > >> Hi Wayne, > > >> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not > > >> provivded. The instructions will tell you ( at least > > >> mine did )that you use 1/4 inch aluminum tube and > > >> create a half loop at the end and then hook it > > >> directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate > > >> 18 inch flex lines. > > >> > > >> Dennis Thomas > > >> --- Wayne wrote: > > >> > > >> > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two > > >> > flexible brake lines (VA188). Do those come with the > > >> > finishing kit instead? > > >> > > > >> > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system > > >> > everyone. > > >> > Wayne > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> -- > > > 12/09/2006 > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > __g__ > > ========================================================== > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Dec 12, 2006
Good advice! Realizing the brake lines on the -9A are different than on the -9 here is my experience with the -9. I did not like the idea of the loop around the brake so I elected to run the hard line down the gear leg and transition to a 12" section of stainless steel flex line. Look great, easy enough to do, etc. but... The fairing would not fit over the union. So, off came those brake lines and they were replaced with flex lines from the firewall down to the brake. Much easier installation. I'll post pictures on my web site in a few days. Busy with work right now. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines Wayne, If you order the brake lines now don't forget to get the firewall doubler plate. You will still have access to the brake/rudder pedals for a long time but it easier to do now. Don't rivet on the front deck until you are absolutely sure you don't or won't need any more access to the front area. Mike Ice RV-9 Wiring, wiring, wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne <wowens(at)darientel.net> Date: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:45 am Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > Thanks all. > I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come > in the > finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't > understand the > logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. It > sure looks > like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch of > aluminum on > top of the pedals. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > > Wayne, > > I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part > labeled VA 188 > > but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines > go from > > pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum > tube from > > gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this > connection.> John Castor > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM > > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > > > >> > >> Hi Wayne, > >> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not provivded. > >> The instructions will tell you ( at least mine did )that you use > >> 1/4 inch aluminum tube and create a half loop at the end and then > >> hook it directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate > >> 18 inch flex lines. > >> > >> Dennis Thomas > >> --- Wayne wrote: > >> > >> > My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two flexible brake > >> > lines (VA188). Do those come with the finishing kit instead? > >> > > >> > Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system everyone. > >> > Wayne > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > > 12/09/2006 > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Oliveira <oliveira(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Brake Lines
Date: Dec 13, 2006
The logic on why the finishing kit is really pretty straight forward. You don't get the brakes themselves until the finishing kit. You also don't get to the stage where the Gear legs are installed and you glass the wooden fairing on. that is when you need the brake line. I am at the same stage. Installing rudder pedals and wondering how much to hook up now. John Oliveira 90054 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)budget.net>
Subject: Lycoming 0-320-E2D
Date: Dec 17, 2006
I have a nice lyc engine for sale. Certified engine, legal for auto gas. 402 hrs SMOH 2519 TT All logs available. Removed from Cessna 172 for 180 conversion. Dynafocal mounts Complete less starter and alt. $11,900 FOB Grants Pass OR See at 3S8 dreed(at)budget.net 541-479-5216 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Lycoming 0-320-E2D
The MT electric CS propeller will work great on the Lyc. O-320-E2D engine. MT has a new set of scimitar shape blades for the Lyc. 320 engine. Jim Ayers In a message dated 12/17/2006 1:38:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, dreed(at)budget.net writes: I have a nice lyc engine for sale. Certified engine, legal for auto gas. 402 hrs SMOH 2519 TT All logs available. Removed from Cessna 172 for 180 conversion. Dynafocal mounts Complete less starter and alt. $11,900 FOB Grants Pass OR See at 3S8 _dreed(at)budget.net_ (mailto:dreed(at)budget.net) 541-479-5216 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: T Chang <tc1234c(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Cap for Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Here is a belated reply to an earlier question. I found the following item from Lowes: American Valve 1-1/2" Qwik Cap Item #: 23490 Model: RPC40 $2.47 Remove the hose clamp and cut it half lengthwise. It fits perfectly over the fresh air vent outlet. Ted RV9A #91048 104 hours __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Re: Cap for Cabin Fresh Air Vents
Date: Dec 18, 2006
TC, Thanks for the input I'll chase down the parts. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "T Chang" <tc1234c(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 12:41 PM Subject: RV9-List: Cap for Cabin Fresh Air Vents > > Here is a belated reply to an earlier question. I found the following item > from Lowes: > > American Valve > 1-1/2" Qwik Cap > Item #: 23490 Model: RPC40 $2.47 > > Remove the hose clamp and cut it half lengthwise. It fits perfectly over > the fresh air vent outlet. > > Ted > > RV9A > #91048 > 104 hours > > __________________________________________________ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Ray D. Congdon" <n7hqk(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Eggenfellner XT engine
Is there anyone flying an Eggenfellner XT engine out there on this list? I just got re-instated on the waiting list for 2007 and am still debating t he pros & cons... any experianced input would be welcome. =0A=0A =0AISA-U SA Inc. =0AIndustrial Strength Answers For Telecommunications Infrastructur e=0ARay D. Congdon=0A5515 N 4400 W=0ACedar City, UT 84720 USA =0Awww.isa-us a-inc.com=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "fcs(at)jlc.net" <fcs(at)jlc.net>
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Subject: Eggenfellner XT engine
Ray, you'll reach more Egg fliers on the "subaruaircraft" newsgroup. I've logged about 400hrs on my RV-9e/2.5/165 and love it! ...but I am not exactly an impartial witness either. ;^) Gary -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: tachometer markings
Hello, I am buying a new tachometer for the RV-9 I am building and the instrument shop wants to know where to put the appropriate markings for yellow and red lines on the face. How do I determine that data? The engine is a Lycoming O-320 E3D. thanks, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Peters" <BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: tachometer markings
Date: Jan 04, 2007
Mike, I would assume, probably wrongly, that Lycoming should provide that information. I am also building an RV-9A and would be interested in knowing what you find out. Hopefully someone will have the info and post it. How far along are you? I am just starting the fuselage and am working on the firewall bulkhead. I left my wing bottom skins off pending decisions about wiring, autopilot, etc. How did you determine which model of the various O-320's you wanted? Thanks. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 9:12 AM Subject: RV9-List: tachometer markings Hello, I am buying a new tachometer for the RV-9 I am building and the instrument shop wants to know where to put the appropriate markings for yellow and red lines on the face. How do I determine that data? The engine is a Lycoming O-320 E3D. thanks, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2007
From: jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: tachometer markings
Hy there: Due to some vibrations couplings it is mandatory to consult the prop maker about RPM limitations, too. Usually we could put a top red at 2700, botton yellow at 2600, botton green at 600, yellow up to zero. JC - Aracaju - Brasil RV-9A PU-JCI Flying 180 hs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: tachometer markings
JC, Thank you for the information. It confirms what I was able to find from other sources. Mike Ice Anchorage, Alaska ----- Original Message ----- From: <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 12:38 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: tachometer markings > > Hy there: > Due to some vibrations couplings it is mandatory to consult the prop maker > about RPM > limitations, too. > Usually we could put a top red at 2700, botton yellow at 2600, botton > green at 600, > yellow up to zero. > JC - Aracaju - Brasil > RV-9A > PU-JCI > Flying 180 hs > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: tachometer markings
Bruce, I found a source yesterday that pretty much was right in line with the information that JC provided concerning the Tach. I have the fuselage and all of the major components completed except the wiring and canopy. I have the firewall forward and finish kit on order and they should be here around the end of January. I am trying to complete the wiring before then so I can start to work on the canopy. Price and availability were the determining factors for deciding on the engine I ended up with. I knew I wanted a Lycoming O-320 of some type and I desired a wide deck model with a conical mount and then just started looking for one. I was lucky to find a unit that was just rebuilt by a local shop. Unfortunately for the previous owner before it could be reinstalled in his Piper Warrior a Moose decide to wing walk on his airplane. I am finding the wiring process to be very educational. I started out not know anything and scared to try. I went with the Van's wire harness and now have completely removed it and I am now installing the Z-11 system from the Aeroelectric book. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Peters To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: tachometer markings Mike, I would assume, probably wrongly, that Lycoming should provide that information. I am also building an RV-9A and would be interested in knowing what you find out. Hopefully someone will have the info and post it. How far along are you? I am just starting the fuselage and am working on the firewall bulkhead. I left my wing bottom skins off pending decisions about wiring, autopilot, etc. How did you determine which model of the various O-320's you wanted? Thanks. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 9:12 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV9-List: tachometer markings Hello, I am buying a new tachometer for the RV-9 I am building and the instrument shop wants to know where to put the appropriate markings for yellow and red lines on the face. How do I determine that data? The engine is a Lycoming O-320 E3D. thanks, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: tachometer markings
Date: Jan 04, 2007
Mike, Just love to be a smart A$$ so... Why not go with an electronic EMS? Then you can program your tack to read whatever you want. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 10:34 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: tachometer markings Bruce, I found a source yesterday that pretty much was right in line with the information that JC provided concerning the Tach. I have the fuselage and all of the major components completed except the wiring and canopy. I have the firewall forward and finish kit on order and they should be here around the end of January. I am trying to complete the wiring before then so I can start to work on the canopy. Price and availability were the determining factors for deciding on the engine I ended up with. I knew I wanted a Lycoming O-320 of some type and I desired a wide deck model with a conical mount and then just started looking for one. I was lucky to find a unit that was just rebuilt by a local shop. Unfortunately for the previous owner before it could be reinstalled in his Piper Warrior a Moose decide to wing walk on his airplane. I am finding the wiring process to be very educational. I started out not know anything and scared to try. I went with the Van's wire harness and now have completely removed it and I am now installing the Z-11 system from the Aeroelectric book. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce <mailto:BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com> Peters Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: tachometer markings Mike, I would assume, probably wrongly, that Lycoming should provide that information. I am also building an RV-9A and would be interested in knowing what you find out. Hopefully someone will have the info and post it. How far along are you? I am just starting the fuselage and am working on the firewall bulkhead. I left my wing bottom skins off pending decisions about wiring, autopilot, etc. How did you determine which model of the various O-320's you wanted? Thanks. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 9:12 AM Subject: RV9-List: tachometer markings Hello, I am buying a new tachometer for the RV-9 I am building and the instrument shop wants to know where to put the appropriate markings for yellow and red lines on the face. How do I determine that data? The engine is a Lycoming O-320 E3D. thanks, Mike href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: tachometer markings
MessageBill, Not sure what an EMS is but the reason I didn't get it is probably $$. I gave the numbers to the instrument shop and when I get the new tach all the little lights will glow the proper colors. Did you get an EMS? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 6:06 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: tachometer markings Mike, Just love to be a smart A$$ so... Why not go with an electronic EMS? Then you can program your tack to read whatever you want. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 10:34 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: tachometer markings Bruce, I found a source yesterday that pretty much was right in line with the information that JC provided concerning the Tach. I have the fuselage and all of the major components completed except the wiring and canopy. I have the firewall forward and finish kit on order and they should be here around the end of January. I am trying to complete the wiring before then so I can start to work on the canopy. Price and availability were the determining factors for deciding on the engine I ended up with. I knew I wanted a Lycoming O-320 of some type and I desired a wide deck model with a conical mount and then just started looking for one. I was lucky to find a unit that was just rebuilt by a local shop. Unfortunately for the previous owner before it could be reinstalled in his Piper Warrior a Moose decide to wing walk on his airplane. I am finding the wiring process to be very educational. I started out not know anything and scared to try. I went with the Van's wire harness and now have completely removed it and I am now installing the Z-11 system from the Aeroelectric book. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Peters To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: tachometer markings Mike, I would assume, probably wrongly, that Lycoming should provide that information. I am also building an RV-9A and would be interested in knowing what you find out. Hopefully someone will have the info and post it. How far along are you? I am just starting the fuselage and am working on the firewall bulkhead. I left my wing bottom skins off pending decisions about wiring, autopilot, etc. How did you determine which model of the various O-320's you wanted? Thanks. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 9:12 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV9-List: tachometer markings Hello, I am buying a new tachometer for the RV-9 I am building and the instrument shop wants to know where to put the appropriate markings for yellow and red lines on the face. How do I determine that data? The engine is a Lycoming O-320 E3D. thanks, Mike href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2007
From: jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Subject: EMS
Hi Michael and all: There is no other future than glass cockpit. An EMS could replace an infinite number of gauges. The most of them replace up to 16 gauges. The prices with some probes starts at $1900. The most important feature in EMS (engine management system) is the annunciator sound or light. You will never fly again looking for ghosts in engine instruments. It means more time to look outside the window and take some pictures. Now Im looking for an internet connection inside cockpit. Have some ideia? JC - Aracaju - Brasil -9A #90997 flying 180 hs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cknauf(at)comcast.net
Subject: Lycoming O-320 on ebay
Date: Jan 08, 2007
There's a used Lycoming O-320-B3B for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1
There's a used Lycoming O-320-B3B for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1

________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Bill, Saw your photos here <http://www.repucci.com/bill/fuselage_pg3.html>. Do you have any specifics on the brake lines you used? Vendor, Manufacture, Model? Larry Rosen RV-10 N205EN (reserved) Bill Repucci wrote: > > Good advice! > > Realizing the brake lines on the -9A are different than on the -9 here > is my experience with the -9. > > I did not like the idea of the loop around the brake so I elected to run > the hard line down the gear leg and transition to a 12" section of > stainless steel flex line. Look great, easy enough to do, etc. but... > > The fairing would not fit over the union. So, off came those brake > lines and they were replaced with flex lines from the firewall down to > the brake. Much easier installation. I'll post pictures on my web site > in a few days. Busy with work right now. > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice > Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:07 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > > > Wayne, > > If you order the brake lines now don't forget to get the firewall > doubler plate. You will still have access to the brake/rudder pedals for > a long time but it easier to do now. Don't rivet on the front deck until > you are absolutely sure you don't or won't need any more access to the > front area. > > Mike Ice > RV-9 Wiring, wiring, wiring > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Wayne <wowens(at)darientel.net> > Date: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:45 am > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > > >> >> Thanks all. >> I called Vans this morning and they told me the brake lines come >> in the >> finishing kit . The fellow who answered my call couldn't >> understand the >> logic of " why the finishing kit not the fuselage kit" either. It >> sure looks >> like it would be easier now than after I have stacked a bunch of >> aluminum on >> top of the pedals. >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "John Castor" <rjcastor(at)knology.net> >> To: >> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:41 AM >> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines >> >> >> >>> >>> Wayne, >>> I'm at the same placeinstalling brake lines. I have no part >>> >> labeled VA 188 >> >>> but do have a VA 118 which came with the finish kit. These lines >>> >> go from >> >>> pedals to firewall connection. My plans also call for aluminum >>> >> tube from >> >>> gear mount to wheel brake. I have considered flexible for this >>> >> connection.> John Castor >> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> >>> To: >>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 9:11 PM >>> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake lines >>> >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Hi Wayne, >>>> Unless they have changed, flexible brake lines are not provivded. >>>> The instructions will tell you ( at least mine did )that you use >>>> 1/4 inch aluminum tube and create a half loop at the end and then >>>> hook it directly to the brake. I had a local shop fabricate >>>> 18 inch flex lines. >>>> >>>> Dennis Thomas >>>> --- Wayne wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>> My quick build RV9A kit appears to be short two flexible brake >>>>> lines (VA188). Do those come with the finishing kit instead? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for the guidance on the fuel return system everyone. >>>>> Wayne >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> >>> 12/09/2006 >>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lance Sorensen <lancej(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV9 Empennage Construction Video
Date: Jan 20, 2007
I will sell my RV9 Empennage Construction video for $15 including media shipping. Lance Sorensen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Peters" <BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Hi all, I'm about to try and bend the F718 longerons for my RV9A and I am terrified at the prospect. Other than the fuel tanks this is what has kept me awake at night thinking about it. I did an archive search and saw a couple ideas but was wondering if there was anymore wisdom out there I can lean on. Pictures would be really appreciated as well. Thanks in advance. Bruce Peters RV9A Fuselage Bakersfield, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Re: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Bruce, I found the technique described in the Orndorff video to be a good one and used it. I particularly liked the idea of clamping the two together to get the bends equal. I have no metalwork background and had my share of problems but none turned out to be insurmountable. I will caution you that I found that the "template" Van's provided for the bend curve was not accurate in length. Since I didn't expect that I had made no effort to confirm that the length of the bend as provided by the dimensions was the same as the length of the template. Mine was off by 3/4". You might be able to imagine the distress around here till I figured out that the problem was the template and not something I'd done wrong. My 7A neighbor suggested using the 721B as a bend guide and that worked fine. That by, the way, is the technique described in the video and also in the instructions for the RV7s. Your next excitement will most likely be bending the side skin. I wouldn't use the Orndorff technique for this. I did some experimenting with it and found that, for me, there was no obvious way to go back and adjust the curve once you start. I used the Van's technique with great success. Bill - RV9 Albion, Maine ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Peters To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 3:51 AM Subject: RV9-List: Longeron Bending Hi all, I'm about to try and bend the F718 longerons for my RV9A and I am terrified at the prospect. Other than the fuel tanks this is what has kept me awake at night thinking about it. I did an archive search and saw a couple ideas but was wondering if there was anymore wisdom out there I can lean on. Pictures would be really appreciated as well. Thanks in advance. Bruce Peters RV9A Fuselage Bakersfield, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 2/1/2007 2:28 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Hi Bruce, Yes, bending the longerons is a time-consuming and somewhat tedious project, but once you're done, you're done. Just use the template and the canopy deck as guides and go slowly. It's not that difficult. http://www.my9a.com/fuse5.asp#092204 Regards, Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - 120 hours - www.my9a.com RV-10 - #40576 - Wings On Feb 6, 2007, at 2:51 AM, Bruce Peters wrote: > Hi all, > > I=92m about to try and bend the F718 longerons for my RV9A and I am > terrified at the prospect. Other than the fuel tanks this is what > has kept me awake at night thinking about it. I did an archive > search and saw a couple ideas but was wondering if there was > anymore wisdom out there I can lean on. Pictures would be really > appreciated as well. Thanks in advance. > > > Bruce Peters > > RV9A Fuselage > > Bakersfield, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Peters" <BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Bill, Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the tip on the video and will order that. I had noticed the measurements on the drawing were not accurate and just assumed that they were "not to scale" but that the general curve was accurate. However, I'm glad to know that I wasn't just seeing things. There have been a couple other areas in the drawings so far that just seemed a little off but mostly I have been able to figure it out. On bending the side skin I hadn't read far enough ahead to realize it was going to be a challenge. I was hoping maybe it was going to assume the shape of the longerons without much fuss. Well, more to lay awake at night about!!! Again, thanks for the help. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chenoweth Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 4:13 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Longeron Bending Bruce, I found the technique described in the Orndorff video to be a good one and used it. I particularly liked the idea of clamping the two together to get the bends equal. I have no metalwork background and had my share of problems but none turned out to be insurmountable. I will caution you that I found that the "template" Van's provided for the bend curve was not accurate in length. Since I didn't expect that I had made no effort to confirm that the length of the bend as provided by the dimensions was the same as the length of the template. Mine was off by 3/4". You might be able to imagine the distress around here till I figured out that the problem was the template and not something I'd done wrong. My 7A neighbor suggested using the 721B as a bend guide and that worked fine. That by, the way, is the technique described in the video and also in the instructions for the RV7s. Your next excitement will most likely be bending the side skin. I wouldn't use the Orndorff technique for this. I did some experimenting with it and found that, for me, there was no obvious way to go back and adjust the curve once you start. I used the Van's technique with great success. Bill - RV9 Albion, Maine ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Peters <mailto:BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 3:51 AM Subject: RV9-List: Longeron Bending Hi all, I'm about to try and bend the F718 longerons for my RV9A and I am terrified at the prospect. Other than the fuel tanks this is what has kept me awake at night thinking about it. I did an archive search and saw a couple ideas but was wondering if there was anymore wisdom out there I can lean on. Pictures would be really appreciated as well. Thanks in advance. Bruce Peters RV9A Fuselage Bakersfield, CA href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics .com/ Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _____ Date: 2/1/2007 2:28 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Peters" <BPETERS2(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Hi Mike, Thanks for the advice and link to your site. That helps a lot. I realized after looking at your pictures I forgot to put the radius in the end of the longeron when I trimmed out the piece. Do you think that's much an issue? Or should I shorten up the longeron just a bit to accommodate a radius? Again, thanks for the help. Bruce -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 6:07 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Longeron Bending Hi Bruce, Yes, bending the longerons is a time-consuming and somewhat tedious project, but once you're done, you're done. Just use the template and the canopy deck as guides and go slowly. It's not that difficult. http://www.my9a.com/fuse5.asp#092204 Regards, Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - 120 hours - www.my9a.com RV-10 - #40576 - Wings On Feb 6, 2007, at 2:51 AM, Bruce Peters wrote: Hi all, I'm about to try and bend the F718 longerons for my RV9A and I am terrified at the prospect. Other than the fuel tanks this is what has kept me awake at night thinking about it. I did an archive search and saw a couple ideas but was wondering if there was anymore wisdom out there I can lean on. Pictures would be really appreciated as well. Thanks in advance. Bruce Peters RV9A Fuselage Bakersfield, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Longeron Bending
Date: Feb 07, 2007
Bruce, The radius is there to avoid stress cracks that form at sharp points. The radius doesn't need to be much: a 1/16" radius should be plenty. The aft end of the longeron has that notch in it just so it can fit around the bulkhead. Don't shorten your longeron, just extend your notch a little bit. Just enough to add a radius in the corner. Mike On Feb 6, 2007, at 10:51 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Thanks for the advice and link to your site. That helps a lot. I > realized after looking at your pictures I forgot to put the radius > in the end of the longeron when I trimmed out the piece. Do you > think that=92s much an issue? Or should I shorten up the longeron > just a bit to accommodate a radius? Again, thanks for the help. > > > Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 22, 2007
I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone just put up with offset instruments? Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument panel and the bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the bulkhead. Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? Wayne Owens ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 22, 2007
Wayne: My answer to your questions would be no and yes. I had to move the braces about 5 inches to the right on the right side and about 4 inches left on the left side. I had to cut a hole in the bulk head to accommodate the radio stack and the glove compartment. I then supported and braced the weakened areas with angle aluminum. I also used the larger panel which was an inch or so deeper and made of thicker stock. You can see my panel at steinair.com. good luck --- it seems to take a bit of cutting and tweeking to get it right. dave On Feb 22, 2007, at 3:10 PM, Wayne wrote: > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long > including the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the > instrument panel and the bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you > have to hack holes in the bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2007
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?B?Sm/jbw==?= Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
Subject: Instrument panel
Helo Wayne: Ive got this problem too. What I did was to cut a hole in the rear panel to fit the radio and reinforced the panel with a frame made of 1/2" L beans. The brace had to be cutted too, in order to install the airspeed in a simetric good position. Another L reinforced was rivetted on the brace. No problem , till now. RV-9A 90997 flying 165 h -- JC - Aracaju - Brasil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RE: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 25, 2007
Wayne, I did the modification to move the support ribs over several inches to allow for a 'centering' of the instruments. It was a bit of work and I probably wouldn't do it again. Primarily because it puts that center instrument dead in line with the support rib between the fw and subplanel. On my panel, right below the AH I have a KI-209A CDI that is fairly long and I had a helluva time getting the connector attached to it because the wires couldn't come straight into the back. Personally, stick with the stock setup and just offset the instruments a bit. It may save you some headache down the road. Matthew RV-9A :: N523RV www.n523rv.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 26, 2007
Matthew, I think that's great advice - plan to follow it. Bill Albion, Maine RV9 last third (I hope) of fuselage) ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Brandes To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 7:40 PM Subject: RV9-List: RE: Instrument panel Wayne, I did the modification to move the support ribs over several inches to allow for a 'centering' of the instruments. It was a bit of work and I probably wouldn't do it again. Primarily because it puts that center instrument dead in line with the support rib between the fw and subplanel. On my panel, right below the AH I have a KI-209A CDI that is fairly long and I had a helluva time getting the connector attached to it because the wires couldn't come straight into the back. Personally, stick with the stock setup and just offset the instruments a bit. It may save you some headache down the road. Matthew RV-9A :: N523RV www.n523rv.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 2/25/2007 3:16 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: RE: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 26, 2007
Gang, Moving that rib is easy, very easy. Check out the entries on this page: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html, starting at 1/9/06. FWIW, I did not install the rib to the right of my Dynon, only the left rib. Another local builder (-7A) simply used a small section of angle to attach the 1/2 rib in place. Good luck, Bill www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chenoweth Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:52 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: RE: Instrument panel Matthew, I think that's great advice - plan to follow it. Bill Albion, Maine RV9 last third (I hope) of fuselage) ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew <mailto:matthew(at)n523rv.com> Brandes Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 7:40 PM Subject: RV9-List: RE: Instrument panel Wayne, I did the modification to move the support ribs over several inches to allow for a 'centering' of the instruments. It was a bit of work and I probably wouldn't do it again. Primarily because it puts that center instrument dead in line with the support rib between the fw and subplanel. On my panel, right below the AH I have a KI-209A CDI that is fairly long and I had a helluva time getting the connector attached to it because the wires couldn't come straight into the back. Personally, stick with the stock setup and just offset the instruments a bit. It may save you some headache down the road. Matthew RV-9A :: N523RV www.n523rv.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _____ Date: 2/25/2007 3:16 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 26, 2007
Wayne, Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes through it. This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold all the wires in place. Check out this picture: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone just put up with offset instruments? Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument panel and the bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the bulkhead. Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? Wayne Owens ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel
Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to cut > as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes through > it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward side > of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I am > building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything with > plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind encoder: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it up, you > will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs and > sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold all the > wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up canopy > fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel centers the > ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the > harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument panel and > the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald A. Russ" <russra(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 27, 2007
Wayine: It's not the length of the radio it's the location in the panel. Purchase the glove box and put it in. That will give you good experience on how to cut the hole. Ron Russ EAA 286 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > -- 2/26/2007 2:56 PM -- 2/26/2007 2:56 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 27, 2007
Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "WILLIAM AGSTER" <BAGSTERJR(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 27, 2007
Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci<mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Pur p<http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+P urp> ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie= Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com<mailto:bill(at)repucci.com>> To: > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg i.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg> > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html instruments.html>. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg /bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg> > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List gator?RV9-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2007
From: gbrasch(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Instrument panel
Ditto for me too... Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN. RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ -----Original Message----- >From: WILLIAM AGSTER <BAGSTERJR(at)msn.com> >Sent: Feb 27, 2007 10:38 PM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > >Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Repucci<mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > Thanks Mike. > > FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be > easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a > Philips head screw. > > I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: > http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp> > ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes > > Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard > size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. > > I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel > tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and > remove. > > Just another tip I thought I would pass along. > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > Bill, Wayne, > > Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the > wiring > of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on > the > bottom of the ribs. > > Many thanks, > > Mike Ice > wiring done, slider canopy under construction > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com<mailto:bill(at)repucci.com>> > To: > > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > > > Wayne, > > > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > > through it. > > > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg> > > > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html>. If you blow it > > > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg> > > > > Good luck, > > Bill > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com> > > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > > just put up with > > > > offset instruments? > > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > > panel and the > > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > > bulkhead. > > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 27, 2007
From: "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve(at)streiker.com>
If you paste both halves of the link together in the URL line of the brower you'll get the right page. ________________________________ From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM AGSTER Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:38 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci <mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Pur p ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie= Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> To: Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========================h ttp://www.matronicsnbsp; available via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel
Wayne, I put in the map box and ended up removing it. That sucker takes up a lot of panel space. Cutting holes in the sub panels is not that hard. Make some lines and fire up your die grinder with a cut off wheel and go for it.After you get the holes cut use some angle stock as a brace to reinforce where ever you cut. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronald A. Russ" <russra(at)alltel.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:28 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayine: It's not the length of the radio it's the location in the > panel. Purchase the glove box and put it in. That will give you good > experience on how to cut the hole. Ron Russ EAA 286 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > Bill, Wayne, > > Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the > wiring > of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on > the > bottom of the ribs. > > Many thanks, > > Mike Ice > wiring done, slider canopy under construction > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > >> >> Wayne, >> >> Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to >> cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. >> >> The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes >> through it. >> >> This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and >> transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg >> >> FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward >> side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I >> am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything >> with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind >> encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > >> up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. >> >> Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs >> and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold >> all the wires in place. Check out this picture: >> http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg >> >> Good luck, >> Bill >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne >> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel >> >> >> >> I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up >> canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel >> centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone >> just put up with >> >> offset instruments? >> Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > >> the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument >> panel and the >> bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the >> bulkhead. >> Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? >> >> Wayne Owens >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > -- > 2/26/2007 2:56 PM > > > -- > 2/26/2007 2:56 PM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 28, 2007
It looks like the Sears site is down. I think the part number might be: 00947477000 However, to help out I took a picture of my tool set and posted on my web site: http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/Craftsman%20Key.jpg Oh, sorry, wrong tool. ;) This is the correct one: http://www.repucci.com/bill/things/sears%20tools%202.jpg The bits are replaceable and the wrenches are reversible. Hope that helps. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Streiker, Stephen D. Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:11 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel If you paste both halves of the link together in the URL line of the brower you'll get the right page. _____ From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM AGSTER Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:38 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci <mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > ========================http://www.matronicsnbsp; available via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ========== href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Instrument panel
Date: Feb 28, 2007
The Sears site is back up. Go to www.sears.com and enter in the part number listed below (00947477000) for details. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Repucci Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 11:05 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel It looks like the Sears site is down. I think the part number might be: 00947477000 However, to help out I took a picture of my tool set and posted on my web site: http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/Craftsman%20Key.jpg Oh, sorry, wrong tool. ;) This is the correct one: http://www.repucci.com/bill/things/sears%20tools%202.jpg The bits are replaceable and the wrenches are reversible. Hope that helps. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Streiker, Stephen D. Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 11:11 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel If you paste both halves of the link together in the URL line of the brower you'll get the right page. _____ From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM AGSTER Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:38 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci <mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > ========================http://www.matronicsnbsp; available via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ========== href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Dynaon Avionics
Date: Mar 22, 2007
Ol JC J est construindo outro?? Carlos ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joo Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 7:42 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Dynaon Avionics > Martins de Medeiros" > > Hello Dennis: > In my first RV-9A, I've installed a Dynon D10-A. Excellent. It was very > beautiful and > efficient. I could read the info very easily in spite off some info about > these difficult. > The only claim was about the procedure to calibrate magnetic compass and > the way we see > vertical speed, by numbers not by bar graph. > Now I'm building my second RV-9A with EFIS-D-100 and another EMS-D-120. > The choice was > made by price and the connectivity between both of them. I understand it > as a redundancy > in my panel. Even then there are only one sensor for each engine > parameter, the most > important in an emergency will be the info from D-100 and we have two > screens for the same > sensors. It is very simple to install and maintenance free. > About the GPS connectivity it could be better like the other ones (GRT, > Blue Mountain.), > but the price convinced me. > Go for it. You won't regret. > JC - Aracaju - Brasil > -- > JC - Aracaju > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2007
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?B?Sm/jbw==?= Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
Subject: Another RV-9A
Ola Carlos, (Hello Carlos) Sim, j estamos construindo outro RV-9A (Yes, we are bulding another RV-9A) Fui passear em Santa Catarina e um colega aviador se encantou com meu PU-JCI, pagou bem e a vista, e no mesmo dia encomendei outro kit na VANS, o PU-IJC. (I flew to Santa Catarina state and a friend had liked my PU-JCI, offer good money, cash, then I sold it, at the same day I bought another kit, the PU-IJC). Agora com hlice de velocidade constante e motor Superior com bomba injetora. Interior todo de couro e painel digital. (Now, it will have C&S prop, Superior injected IO-320 engine, leather interior, glass cockpit). Espero estar voando em Junho. (I expect first flight to June) Abrao -- JC - Aracaju - Brasil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 25, 2007
I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2007
From: gbrasch(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Why are you going to change them out, if I may ask? Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN. RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ -----Original Message----- >From: Steve Dwyer <steve(at)cleanbrite.com> >Sent: Mar 25, 2007 8:08 AM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > >I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? >Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2007
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?B?Sm/jbw==?= Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
Subject: piano ringes
Hello Steve: I laid a bet with a friend of mine Ill finished the removal of both cowlings in less than a minute. Guess what? I won. And must tell you: My -9A has a three blade Catto prop. Its very, very easy removal 6 piano wires. I believe it is easier than remove the cam locks system. The cowlings is tied together every milimeter and tight. Think about it. -- JC - Aracaju Citando gbrasch(at)earthlink.net: > > Why are you going to change them out, if I may ask? > > Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN. > RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer > Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles > http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Steve Dwyer <steve(at)cleanbrite.com> > >Sent: Mar 25, 2007 8:08 AM > >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > > > >I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and > lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and > wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I > realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone > done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? > >Steve > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-9A For Sale
Date: Mar 26, 2007
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
I'm posting this for a friend with medical issues. Everyone at the airport who watched him build this plane speaks highly of his meticulous work. 2006 Aerosport O-320, 55 hrs. Fixed pitch Sensenich Dynon D10A Garmin GPS/COM Garmin GTX-320A transponder I-K Technologies EIS $110,000 Bruce Roberts Pell City, AL 205-338-9618 Prism15(at)centurytel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 26, 2007
Steve, I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. .064 was used around the firewall and along the horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed it in from the inside to help relieve some of the expected stress. All very easy to do. One word of caution, do not bring the strips so far forward that they start to bend in, that makes the cowling more difficult to get on and off. Bill www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 27, 2007
Bill, I'd like to leave the top and bottom hinges at the fire wall and change the side hinges to Skybolts C-loc style. These are very close in style to the Camloc brand they seem tighten better. My big concern is whether you think I will have a problem installing the top cowl into the top hinges while inserting the side loc style? Here's a shot of my RV-9A. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 6:02 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners Steve, I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. .064 was used around the firewall and along the horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed it in from the inside to help relieve some of the expected stress. All very easy to do. One word of caution, do not bring the strips so far forward that they start to bend in, that makes the cowling more difficult to get on and off. Bill www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? Steve href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2007
From: HKG Guy <chhkg(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Dear Steve I saw your attached email and the picture of your 9A. I am also building a 9A in Tasmania, Australia. Your 9A looks absolutely supurb...Congratulations!. I am finishing off the wings/fuselage about 70% etc, not decided on the engine or instuments yet. But always dreaming... I was thinking of the painting and puttung stripes, similar to what you have. (Probably red on a basically white plane. Can you please tell me how these stripes were done? Are they a tape stuck on the basic yellow, or have they been painted on? They are great. Many thanks -Neil --- Steve Dwyer wrote: > Bill, > > I'd like to leave the top and bottom hinges at the > fire wall and change the side hinges to Skybolts > C-loc style. These are very close in style to the > Camloc brand they seem tighten better. My big > concern is whether you think I will have a problem > installing the top cowl into the top hinges while > inserting the side loc style? Here's a shot of my > RV-9A. > > Steve > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Repucci > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 6:02 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > > > Steve, > > I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with > hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I > elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. > > .064 was used around the firewall and along the > horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the > aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed > it in from the inside to help relieve some of the > expected stress. > > All very easy to do. > > One word of caution, do not bring the strips so > far forward that they start to bend in, that makes > the cowling more difficult to get on and off. > > Bill > www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Steve Dwyer > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > > > I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the > side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to > go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc > 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum > should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I > realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I > rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do > you recommend .043, .050 or .063? > Steve > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > > > > Looking for earth-friendly autos? Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 28, 2007
Steve, NICE looking -9A! I hope it flies as good as it looks. I don't suspect you will have problems putting the cowing back on after you switch over to the Skybolts. The trick will be in holding the cowling together while you fit the new fasteners and aluminum strips but at this point, that shouldn't be a issue for you. Truth is, I don't really know since I have Skybolts all around my cowling. You might wish to post this question on the Van's Air Force forum and see what comes up. www.vansairforce.net. Good luck. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 7:36 PM Subject: RV9-List: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners Bill, I'd like to leave the top and bottom hinges at the fire wall and change the side hinges to Skybolts C-loc style. These are very close in style to the Camloc brand they seem tighten better. My big concern is whether you think I will have a problem installing the top cowl into the top hinges while inserting the side loc style? Here's a shot of my RV-9A. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci <mailto:bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 6:02 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners Steve, I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. .064 was used around the firewall and along the horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed it in from the inside to help relieve some of the expected stress. All very easy to do. One word of caution, do not bring the strips so far forward that they start to bend in, that makes the cowling more difficult to get on and off. Bill www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do you recommend .043, .050 or .063? Steve href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Re: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 28, 2007
Bill, I ordered the Skybolts cowl package today should have everything early next week. I've attached some more shots to help you better see the art work. Everything is painted, I used a single stage paint from PPG called Concept you can clear coat it but I was so impressed with finish I didn't bother. To get the art work I went to a vinyl graphics shop one of those places that designs those large colorful graphics you see on big power boats. I knew what I wanted and approached the guy thinking I was going to have him create a vinyl stick on for me. He explained that he could also create a stencil that I could paint on. We created the design on his computer and he came to my house and attached the stencil to the already yellow painted plane. I would next pull off the areas I wanted a particular color, paint it and then I would actually replaced the stencils over the new color then I did the same to the next color. It took a lot of time but it was worth it now there is no vinyl to come off. I painted the plane myself, when I was a kid I painted a car so I figured I was experienced enough. I built a paint booth in my two car garage (you can still see the paint over spray on the floor) with fan and filter on oppisite ends and used a Hobby Air unit for fresh air when I was in the booth. Oh by the way he charge me $500.00 to create the stencil and come to my house and install it. I still owe him a ride (he's on the list with many others). Also it flys like a dream with a Lyc 160 HP fixed pitch prop VFR day/night. I will be at Oshkosh this year and plan to fly the 9 there, you planning on going? Steve Dwyer RV-9A kit #90219 Located in Syracuse New York Hangered at Oswego Co Airport --identifier FZY ----- Original Message ----- From: "HKG Guy" <chhkg(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 2:12 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > > Dear Steve > > I saw your attached email and the picture of your 9A. > I am also building a 9A in Tasmania, Australia. Your > 9A looks absolutely supurb...Congratulations!. > > I am finishing off the wings/fuselage about 70% etc, > not decided on the engine or instuments yet. But > always dreaming... I was thinking of the painting and > puttung stripes, similar to what you have. (Probably > red on a basically white plane. Can you please tell me > how these stripes were done? Are they a tape stuck on > the basic yellow, or have they been painted on? They > are great. > > Many thanks > -Neil > > --- Steve Dwyer wrote: > >> Bill, >> >> I'd like to leave the top and bottom hinges at the >> fire wall and change the side hinges to Skybolts >> C-loc style. These are very close in style to the >> Camloc brand they seem tighten better. My big >> concern is whether you think I will have a problem >> installing the top cowl into the top hinges while >> inserting the side loc style? Here's a shot of my >> RV-9A. >> >> Steve >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Bill Repucci >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 6:02 PM >> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners >> >> >> Steve, >> >> I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with >> hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I >> elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. >> >> .064 was used around the firewall and along the >> horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the >> aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed >> it in from the inside to help relieve some of the >> expected stress. >> >> All very easy to do. >> >> One word of caution, do not bring the strips so >> far forward that they start to bend in, that makes >> the cowling more difficult to get on and off. >> >> Bill >> www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >> Behalf Of Steve Dwyer >> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners >> >> >> I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the >> side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to >> go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc >> 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum >> should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I >> realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I >> rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do >> you recommend .043, .050 or .063? >> Steve >> >> >> > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List >> > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> >> >> >> >> > > > Looking for earth-friendly autos? > Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. > http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners
Date: Mar 29, 2007
Steve, It sounds like you did it "right" by using the stencils and the results really show. After watching some of the local builders and fliers who have painted first, I have most recently elected to fly first and then paint it after around 100 hours. Time will tell if that is a good idea or not. My paint scheme is much simpler than yours, base coat of white (I know, boring) and then accents out of a deep blue that Mazda used on their 1999 10th Anniversary addition Miata. I've always liked that color since it first came out and I had Craig Catto paint the tips of my prop with the same blue. Yesterday I went flying for two hours in a friends -7A and did five landings, three from the right seat and two from the left. These airplanes are truly amazing. I still need to get some RV tail wheel time before I fly my -9 but I figure it can't be much different than any of the other TW planes I've flown. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:48 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners Bill, I ordered the Skybolts cowl package today should have everything early next week. I've attached some more shots to help you better see the art work. Everything is painted, I used a single stage paint from PPG called Concept you can clear coat it but I was so impressed with finish I didn't bother. To get the art work I went to a vinyl graphics shop one of those places that designs those large colorful graphics you see on big power boats. I knew what I wanted and approached the guy thinking I was going to have him create a vinyl stick on for me. He explained that he could also create a stencil that I could paint on. We created the design on his computer and he came to my house and attached the stencil to the already yellow painted plane. I would next pull off the areas I wanted a particular color, paint it and then I would actually replaced the stencils over the new color then I did the same to the next color. It took a lot of time but it was worth it now there is no vinyl to come off. I painted the plane myself, when I was a kid I painted a car so I figured I was experienced enough. I built a paint booth in my two car garage (you can still see the paint over spray on the floor) with fan and filter on oppisite ends and used a Hobby Air unit for fresh air when I was in the booth. Oh by the way he charge me $500.00 to create the stencil and come to my house and install it. I still owe him a ride (he's on the list with many others). Also it flys like a dream with a Lyc 160 HP fixed pitch prop VFR day/night. I will be at Oshkosh this year and plan to fly the 9 there, you planning on going? Steve Dwyer RV-9A kit #90219 Located in Syracuse New York Hangered at Oswego Co Airport --identifier FZY ----- Original Message ----- From: "HKG Guy" <chhkg(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 2:12 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners > > Dear Steve > > I saw your attached email and the picture of your 9A. > I am also building a 9A in Tasmania, Australia. Your > 9A looks absolutely supurb...Congratulations!. > > I am finishing off the wings/fuselage about 70% etc, > not decided on the engine or instuments yet. But > always dreaming... I was thinking of the painting and puttung > stripes, similar to what you have. (Probably red on a basically white > plane. Can you please tell me how these stripes were done? Are they a > tape stuck on the basic yellow, or have they been painted on? They > are great. > > Many thanks > -Neil > > --- Steve Dwyer wrote: > >> Bill, >> >> I'd like to leave the top and bottom hinges at the >> fire wall and change the side hinges to Skybolts >> C-loc style. These are very close in style to the >> Camloc brand they seem tighten better. My big >> concern is whether you think I will have a problem installing the top >> cowl into the top hinges while inserting the side loc style? Here's >> a shot of my RV-9A. >> >> Steve >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Bill Repucci >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 6:02 PM >> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners >> >> >> Steve, >> >> I started with camloc's to avoid the problem with >> hinges breaking on the bottom. While I was at it, I >> elected to use camloc's in place of all the hinges. >> >> .064 was used around the firewall and along the >> horizontal cowling part line. I riveted the >> aluminum to the bottom of the cowl and then glassed >> it in from the inside to help relieve some of the >> expected stress. >> >> All very easy to do. >> >> One word of caution, do not bring the strips so >> far forward that they start to bend in, that makes >> the cowling more difficult to get on and off. >> >> Bill >> www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >> Behalf Of Steve Dwyer >> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 11:08 AM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Engine Cowl Fasteners >> >> >> I've got 70 hours on my 9A and I am convinced the >> side hinges between the upper and lower cowl have to >> go. I'm planning on converting these over to Camloc >> 4002 series and wonder what thickness sheet aluminum >> should be used to fasten the receptacles to. I >> realize Aircraft Spruce offers kits to do this but I >> rather make it myself. Has anyone done this and do >> you recommend .043, .050 or .063? >> Steve >> >> >> > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronic > s.com/Navigator?RV9-List >> > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> >> >> >> >> > > > Looking for earth-friendly autos? > Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. > http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vent line thru F-902
From: "jlfernan" <jlfernan(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Mar 29, 2007
I'm having trouble picturing where to drill the hole thru the F-902 for the AN fitting for the fuel vent line. I'm building a quickbuild and there is no pilot hole and all the rivet holes are filled. If someone could post a photo it could make my life easier. -------- Jorge Fernandez N214JL Reserved 9A QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=103767#103767 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Vent line thru F-902
Date: Mar 29, 2007
Here are a couple of pictures of the vent hole location, hopefully they will be helpful. http://www.my9a.com/img/fuse/forward/floorstiffeners1.jpg http://www.my9a.com/img/finish/plumbing/vent2.jpg Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - 130 hours www.my9a.com On Mar 29, 2007, at 6:04 PM, jlfernan wrote: > > I'm having trouble picturing where to drill the hole thru the F-902 > for the AN fitting for the fuel vent line. I'm building a > quickbuild and there is no pilot hole and all the rivet holes are > filled. If someone could post a photo it could make my life easier. > > -------- > Jorge Fernandez > N214JL Reserved > 9A QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=103767#103767 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mick Muller" <mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: cowl hinges
Date: Mar 31, 2007
I have been checking on my cowl preparations and installation instructions for my RV9A. It has an O320E3D engine installed in it. The finish kit has one aluminium hinge 6ft long for joining the two cowl halves together, fairly easy to identify. However, the Vans contents lists says there is also 9 ft of 1/8 piano hinge. Exactly what dimension does the 1/8 refer to? Is it supposed to be the width of the hinge, the thickness of the hinge, or the diameter of the pins?(1/8 does not fit any of these measurements). I received not one nine foot length, but a six foot length and a three foot length. I also received thee other three foot lengths of piano hinge which are of a lighter gauge, (two are 1/16 inch thick, the third piece slightly thicker) but are not as wide as the six foot and three foot larger ones. Does anyone know where each bit resides? I emailed Vans with this question, but after 5 days have received no reply, perhaps they are busy getting ready for sun'n'fun. Thanks, Mick Muller, Builder 90701 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2007
Subject: cowl hinges
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Mike, The hinges are determined by the pin diameter. I had some similar problems when I put my cowling together. The lower hinges (down both sides and the two along the bottom) all use "full size 1/8" pins". The upper cowling uses a smaller diameter pin instead of the full size pin . The reason for this is you have to use a smaller dia. pin to go around the curvature of the cowling. The actual dia. of the top cowling pin is .089" and the lower cowing pin is .117" (1/8"). On the upper pins, I put a 90 deg.bend of about 1-1/2" at the end that you will have to hold on to when placing and removing them. I also floxed the hinges in addition to riveting to keep things neat from shaking about. I did this to the lower hinges in addition to the upper ones. I think I have pix of them on my web site if you want to look. www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Beginning 9-A fuselage:
I am starting on my 9-A quick build fuselage and wondered about painting the inside before I add additional parts. Does anyone have any advice and/or experience they would like to share? I am located in northeast Tenessee. Thanks, Mac McCarty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Beginning 9-A fuselage:
Hi Mac, If you read through the instructions it will give you a point that is right for painting. In reality it will fall after all the interior panels, bulkheads and floors are installed. Any way you go there will be several times you will need to paint. Dennis Thomas RV9 N164DV --- McCarty wrote: > > > I am starting on my 9-A quick build fuselage and > wondered about painting the inside before I add > additional parts. Does anyone have any advice and/or > experience they would like to share? I am located in > northeast Tenessee. > Thanks, > Mac McCarty > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Beginning 9-A fuselage:
Mac, Paint equals weight. But if you want to paint your probably at the best point you will ever be to do so. Mike Ice Canopy wrap up next up, motor mount and put this bird on it's own legs Anchorage, Alaska ----- Original Message ----- From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 4:54 AM Subject: RV9-List: Beginning 9-A fuselage: > > I am starting on my 9-A quick build fuselage and wondered about painting > the inside before I add additional parts. Does anyone have any advice > and/or experience they would like to share? I am located in northeast > Tenessee. > Thanks, > Mac McCarty > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to the
community.
Date: Apr 13, 2007
From: "Brandon Rigio" <brandon.rigio(at)kodak.com>
Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. I am 26 years old and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer and previously worked in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp kit and wanted to say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this journey. So hello and I look forward to conversing with and possibly meeting with you. Cheers, Brandon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community.
Date: Apr 13, 2007
Congratulations Brandon. Welcome to the group. Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - Flying www.my9a.com On Apr 13, 2007, at 5:13 PM, Brandon Rigio wrote: > > > Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. I am 26 years old > and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer and previously > worked > in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp kit and wanted to > say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this journey. So hello > and I look forward to conversing with and possibly meeting with you. > > Cheers, > Brandon. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2007
From: gbrasch(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community. Welcome Brandon, and good luck. Feel free to ask for any help. Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN. RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ -----Original Message----- >From: Brandon Rigio <brandon.rigio(at)kodak.com> >Sent: Apr 13, 2007 6:13 PM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV9-List: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to the community. > > >Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. I am 26 years old >and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer and previously worked >in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp kit and wanted to >say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this journey. So hello >and I look forward to conversing with and possibly meeting with you. > >Cheers, >Brandon. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community. Brandon, I am 70 years old, I've been retired 1 year and am just getting into the fuselage of my 9-A quick build kit. I have completed the tail feathers and the wings. I have had my Pilot's license since 11/2/06. It took me 3 years to get it. I spend most of my time in my hangar working on the airplane. If enjoyment of life will keep me alive this airplane project is going to let me live to be 1000. This is the most fun I have ever had. I say all this to encourage you as you start out. Go after it!! Best Wishes, Mac McCarty -----Original Message----- >From: Brandon Rigio <brandon.rigio(at)kodak.com> >Sent: Apr 13, 2007 6:13 PM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV9-List: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to the community. > > >Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. I am 26 years old >and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer and previously worked >in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp kit and wanted to >say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this journey. So hello >and I look forward to conversing with and possibly meeting with you. > >Cheers, >Brandon. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community. Hi Brandon, Congratulations on taking the first step toward building an absolutly wonerfull airplane. You will never be sorry. Dennis Thomas RV-9 #90164 346 hours --- Brandon Rigio wrote: > > > Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. > I am 26 years old > and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer > and previously worked > in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp > kit and wanted to > say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this > journey. So hello > and I look forward to conversing with and possibly > meeting with you. > > Cheers, > Brandon. > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2007
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?B?Sm/jbw==?= Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
Subject: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to the
community. Congrats Brandon: It certainly will be a very happy time. Building a RV was the best thing Ive done. Do one job at time and at least some work every day and in few months you will be flying the most docile airplane Ive ever fligth -- JC - Aracaju - Brasil PU-JCI - RV-9A Flying 180 hs PU-IJC building Expect first flight in june ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Grant Neilson" <grantneilson(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community.
Date: Apr 14, 2007
Hi Brandon, Congratulations on taking the plunge. I've been working on my 9A for just over three years now, and it's been a great learning experience. New skills and great friends have been acquired. I'm just about to plug my wings into the fuselage - about 80% done, 80% to go, as they say. If your coming over to Vancouver island sometime, contact me off list if you wish, and I'll give you my contact numbers. It's a great journey. Grant Neilson RV9A slow build, finishing Campbell River, B.C. grantneilson(at)telus.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darryl Husk" <dhusk(at)webxetra.com>
Subject: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to
the community.
Date: Apr 14, 2007
Congratulations and welcome to the group. I started my kit on Labor Day weekend, 2006. Slow build. I'm building with my father and my brother. My dad is 79 today. He's having more fun than he has in a long time! Same goes for me. We've finished the empennage and wings and have started on the fuselage. You've selected a wonderful kit. Have fun and pound those rivets. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brandon Rigio Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 6:13 PM Subject: RV9-List: Just picked up my -9 tail kit and wanted to say hello to the community. Hello all, my name is Brandon Rigio from Surrey BC. I am 26 years old and not a pilot...yet. I am a mechanical engineer and previously worked in the automotive industry. I just picked up my Emp kit and wanted to say hello to my fellow builders as I start on this journey. So hello and I look forward to conversing with and possibly meeting with you. Cheers, Brandon. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: WD-657 External Step(s):
I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick build kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come with the steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed an item from the fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no other alternative to the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? Mac ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2007
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: WD-657 External Step(s):
Mac, Drill them out. Get used to it you will do it again. Mike Ice RV-9 canopy almost complete, wiring done ----- Original Message ----- From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Date: Monday, April 16, 2007 3:21 pm Subject: RV9-List: WD-657 External Step(s): > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick > build kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that > come with the steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage > compartment floor. These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. > I have never removed an item from the fuselage that is semi- > permanently attached. I see no other alternative to the removal of > the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the pop- > rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that > this is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2007
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: WD-657 External Step(s):
You have to get access to below the floor to install the steps so you have to remove the pop rivets. One advantage us non-quick builders have :-) . Dick Tasker McCarty wrote: > >I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick build kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come with the steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed an item from the fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no other alternative to the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Dwyer" <steve(at)cleanbrite.com>
Subject: Re: WD-657 External Step(s):
Date: Apr 16, 2007
Mac, Why not drill them out and install blind mounting nuts for #8 round head screws. You'll thank yourself down the road if you ever need to run additional wiring thru the floor area when the center channel gets filled up. Steve 90219 flying 70 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 7:20 PM Subject: RV9-List: WD-657 External Step(s): > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick build > kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come with the > steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items > are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed an item from the > fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no other alternative to > the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the > pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this > is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: WD-657 External Step(s):
Date: Apr 16, 2007
Mac, Before you start drilling out those "pop" rivets, read this tread on the VAF forum: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8481&highlight=ri vet As for installing plate nuts to hold the floor pans in, this is a great idea but... Plate nuts and the resulting screw can add a LOT of weight. If you need to get in there at some point in the future, you will know how to remove these rivets and run your extra wires. As Van's has told me, "Build lightness in." Bill RV-9 (and shooting for 1,000 lbs empty weight) www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Dwyer Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 8:20 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: WD-657 External Step(s): Mac, Why not drill them out and install blind mounting nuts for #8 round head screws. You'll thank yourself down the road if you ever need to run additional wiring thru the floor area when the center channel gets filled up. Steve 90219 flying 70 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 7:20 PM Subject: RV9-List: WD-657 External Step(s): > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick > build > kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come with the > steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items > are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed an item from the > fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no other alternative to > the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the > pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this > is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2007
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?B?Sm/jbw==?= Carlos Martins de Medeiros" <jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR>
Subject: Re: WD-657 External Step(s):
As soon as I removed the blind rivets I cut the upper panel to create a compartment for a quart of engine oil bottle. Im so glad now. Cause there is no oil in my luggage. :-))) Be carefull in removing the blind rivets. Use a new bit and boelub. The inner pin of lind rivets are harder than the other parts and drill bit hates it. -- JC - Aracaju - Brasil PU-JCI rv-9a flying 184 hs building PU-IJC, fuselagem Citando McCarty : > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick build kit and am > very green at this game. The instructions that come with the steps tell me to remove > the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I > have never removed an item from the fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see > no other alternative to the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal > of the pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this is > the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2007
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: WD-657 External Step(s):
If I remember right, the instructions call for a 1 1/2" hole for the torque tube that supports the step. However, you need to enlarge that to accommodate the weld seem around the 1 1/2" pipe. Save yourself some grief and use a 1/8" bigger hole saw to begin with. (It might be 1 3/4" but the principal is the same). John Morgensen RV-9A McCarty wrote: > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick build kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come with the steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed an item from the fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no other alternative to the removal of the baggage compartment floor other than removal of the pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > > > > > > . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: External step; Part Deux:
I have found on the right and left outside skin and in part F-625 factory drilled holes in what I have taken to be just the right spot to drill the 1 1/2" dia. holes specified for the external step torque tube. Having placed the 1 1/2" dia. holes in these location I am able to put the WD-657 weldment into place with the F-6125 UHMW block in it's designated location. The photographs included in the instructions show the 1 1/2" dia. holes above the floor of the fuselage, which is exactly what my arrangement looks like. Now my question is: What is meant by the statement on the right side view "Mount so the bottom of the torque tube sits flush against the F-623 web". My torque tube is pressing down onto the upright side of F-623. I will have to inlarge the cutouts on F-623 and F-625 to get the flange that is riveted to the skin flat with the skin. The flange sits at an angle to the skin that can be changed if the holes are inlarged (Read that wallowed out). Before I drill the UHMW block and torque tube and F-626 I wanted to be sure I was on track. Everything looks good, but the comment on the drawing of the right side view made me question what I am seeing. Any and all comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Mac ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: WD-657 External Step(s):
Date: Apr 19, 2007
JC, Good point. In place of an oil locker I used the space under the floors to put my ELT and strobe power supply. This was done before Van's came out with those parts to mount them behind the baggage compartment. Pictures are here: Strobe: http://www.repucci.com/bill/fuselage/strobe%20power%20pack.jpg ELT: http://www.repucci.com/bill/fuselage/elt%20with%20door.jpg Bill www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html PS. This a -9, not a -9A so I don't have those pesky steps to worry about. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joo Carlos Martins de Medeiros Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 10:02 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: WD-657 External Step(s): Martins de Medeiros" As soon as I removed the blind rivets I cut the upper panel to create a compartment for a quart of engine oil bottle. Im so glad now. Cause there is no oil in my luggage. :-))) Be carefull in removing the blind rivets. Use a new bit and boelub. The inner pin of lind rivets are harder than the other parts and drill bit hates it. -- JC - Aracaju - Brasil PU-JCI rv-9a flying 184 hs building PU-IJC, fuselagem Citando McCarty : > > I am at the point of installing the external steps in my 9-A quick > build kit and am very green at this game. The instructions that come > with the steps tell me to remove the F-747 baggage compartment floor. > These items are pop-riveted in about 14 places. I have never removed > an item from the fuselage that is semi-permanently attached. I see no > other alternative to the removal of the baggage compartment floor > other than removal of the pop-rivets. Would someone please assuage my paranoia and tell me that this is the proper procedure, or if not, just what do I do?? > Mac > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "Paul A. Barker" <pbarker(at)hughes.net>
Subject: Small Engines
What's the lowest horsepower engine anybody has put into an RV-9 and achieve satisfactory performance? My understanding is that one of the factory demonstrators uses a 118 hp O-235. I only ask about this because I'm researching some alternative engines as a plan B in case I can't find the engine I really want, when I need it, for a price I would grudgingly pay. Some of the ones I'm looking at are as small as 100 hp, but I'm concerned that they just may not be enough guts to get the job done. I'll take any advice except for "bigger is better". That's already plan A. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Russ" <russra(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Small Engines
Date: Apr 20, 2007
I talked to Steve Wintworth at Sun & Fun and he told me he has some low time 0320. You may want to give him a call. Last year I purchased my 0320 with 219 since major for 11,500. Ron Russ RV9A E3D ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul A. Barker" <pbarker(at)hughes.net> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 12:30 AM Subject: RV9-List: Small Engines > > What's the lowest horsepower engine anybody has put into an RV-9 and > achieve satisfactory performance? My understanding is that one of the > factory demonstrators uses a 118 hp O-235. I only ask about this because > I'm researching some alternative engines as a plan B in case I can't find > the engine I really want, when I need it, for a price I would grudgingly > pay. Some of the ones I'm looking at are as small as 100 hp, but I'm > concerned that they just may not be enough guts to get the job done. > > I'll take any advice except for "bigger is better". That's already plan A. > > Paul > > > -- > 5:32 AM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Small Engines
Date: Apr 20, 2007
Bill Repucci is installing an o-290. (http://www.repucci.com/bill/ baf.html) You might want to contact him directly. The original -9A prototype was indeed powered by an o-235, but sadly it no longer exists. Regards, Mike Schipper www.my9a.com On Apr 19, 2007, at 11:30 PM, Paul A. Barker wrote: > > What's the lowest horsepower engine anybody has put into an RV-9 > and achieve satisfactory performance? My understanding is that one > of the factory demonstrators uses a 118 hp O-235. I only ask about > this because I'm researching some alternative engines as a plan B > in case I can't find the engine I really want, when I need it, for > a price I would grudgingly pay. Some of the ones I'm looking at are > as small as 100 hp, but I'm concerned that they just may not be > enough guts to get the job done. > > I'll take any advice except for "bigger is better". That's already > plan A. > > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Small Engines
Date: Apr 20, 2007
Mike, I sure wish I was flying but I'm not. The good news is the other O-290 powered -9 owners I've spoken to see exactly Van's numbers with a Catto prop. 173 mph @ 75% for the -9A. Paul, check this thread: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=14854&highlight=O -235 Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Small Engines --> Bill Repucci is installing an o-290. (http://www.repucci.com/bill/ baf.html) You might want to contact him directly. The original -9A prototype was indeed powered by an o-235, but sadly it no longer exists. Regards, Mike Schipper www.my9a.com On Apr 19, 2007, at 11:30 PM, Paul A. Barker wrote: > > What's the lowest horsepower engine anybody has put into an RV-9 > and achieve satisfactory performance? My understanding is that one > of the factory demonstrators uses a 118 hp O-235. I only ask about > this because I'm researching some alternative engines as a plan B > in case I can't find the engine I really want, when I need it, for > a price I would grudgingly pay. Some of the ones I'm looking at are > as small as 100 hp, but I'm concerned that they just may not be > enough guts to get the job done. > > I'll take any advice except for "bigger is better". That's already > plan A. > > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Small Engines
Hi Mike, My 2 cents worth. The original factory 9 was powered by an 0-235 lyc and it proved the engineers performance projections. It comes down to how much do you want to spend and how fast do you want to go. I would think it unwise to put less than 120HP on your air frame but anything between 120 and 160 is just a matter of choice. I chose an older 150 HP lyc because I got a good deal on one. It performs well for me. My friend put a new 160 HP on his and it performs better but burns a little more fuel. Decide what you want and then go for it. Dennis Thomas RV-9 #90164 (the first customer built taildragger) 347 hours and loving it --- Bill Repucci wrote: > > > Mike, > > I sure wish I was flying but I'm not. The good news > is the other O-290 > powered -9 owners I've spoken to see exactly Van's > numbers with a Catto > prop. 173 mph @ 75% for the -9A. > > Paul, check this thread: > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=14854&highlight=O > -235 > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Michael > Schipper > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:52 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Small Engines > > > --> > > Bill Repucci is installing an o-290. > (http://www.repucci.com/bill/ > baf.html) You might want to contact him directly. > > The original -9A prototype was indeed powered by an > o-235, but sadly > it no longer exists. > > Regards, > Mike Schipper > www.my9a.com > > > On Apr 19, 2007, at 11:30 PM, Paul A. Barker wrote: > > > > > > What's the lowest horsepower engine anybody has > put into an RV-9 > > and achieve satisfactory performance? My > understanding is that one > > of the factory demonstrators uses a 118 hp O-235. > I only ask about > > this because I'm researching some alternative > engines as a plan B > > in case I can't find the engine I really want, > when I need it, for > > a price I would grudgingly pay. Some of the ones > I'm looking at are > > as small as 100 hp, but I'm concerned that they > just may not be > > enough guts to get the job done. > > > > I'll take any advice except for "bigger is > better". That's already > > plan A. > > > > Paul > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2007
From: "Paul A. Barker" <pbarker(at)hughes.net>
Subject: RE: Small Engines
Thank you all for your input. What I was really looking for, but failed to say, was that I was looking at REALLY alternative engines like VW conversions and such. Some of these are in the 100-120 hp range. That's just a notch down from the 118 hp O-235. What I'm finding after a little more research is that low to mid-time Lycomings are available for a lower cost than than these freaks of engineering. I just have to look in the right places. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: Cowl fasteners
Date: Apr 23, 2007
I saw some new fasteners on the cowl of a few RVs at S-n-F. I think they were called Skybolts but Google has failed me. Does anyone know the source? Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: revenson(at)comcast.net (Roger Evenson)
Subject: Re: Cowl fasteners
Date: Apr 23, 2007
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl fasteners
Date: Apr 23, 2007
Go to: www.skybolt.com 1-800-223-1963 Leesburg Regional Airport Leesburg, Florida 34788 Ask for their Catalog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne To: RV9-List Digest List Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:57 AM Subject: RV9-List: Cowl fasteners I saw some new fasteners on the cowl of a few RVs at S-n-F. I think they were called Skybolts but Google has failed me. Does anyone know the source? Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl fasteners
Date: Apr 23, 2007
Go to: www.skybolt.com 1-800-223-1963 Leesburg Regional Airport Leesburg, Florida 34788 Ask for their Catalog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne To: RV9-List Digest List Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:57 AM Subject: RV9-List: Cowl fasteners I saw some new fasteners on the cowl of a few RVs at S-n-F. I think they were called Skybolts but Google has failed me. Does anyone know the source? Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: ThorLLC
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Has anyone got experience with the Thor lighting system? http://www.thorllc.net/LEDSTROBEa.htm Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne" <wowens(at)darientel.net>
Subject: ThorLLC
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Has anyone got experience with the Thor lighting system? http://www.thorllc.net/LEDSTROBEa.htm Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: fin
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harold Kovac" <kayce33(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fin
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Hi Bill, I checked mine with a drilled acorn/cap nut, string thru the drilled hole with a weight. Mine came out with about a 1/64th" off center error.....seems easier than a straight edge & worked with flaps too. Harold, RV9A Fuselage wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: RV9-List: fin Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Re: fin
Date: May 02, 2007
Harold, Sorry for the delay in thanking you for the advice. I ended up discussing the situation with Van's. Their position was that it had to be straight. The suggestion was to raise the rear spar (since mine is a tailwheel version I could only do that about 1/16 due to edge margin issues) and/or to trim some off the 981 front bracket. I ended up doing both plus filing some off the top hinge brackets so they were the same dimension from hole to aft edge as the two lower ones so that the straight edge technique would produce accurate results. After all that I'm between .005 off to absolutely straight. Van's said the .005 was close enough. Haven't drilled yet. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold Kovac To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, I checked mine with a drilled acorn/cap nut, string thru the drilled hole with a weight. Mine came out with about a 1/64th" off center error.....seems easier than a straight edge & worked with flaps too. Harold, RV9A Fuselage wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: RV9-List: fin Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 4/22/2007 8:18 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harold" <kayce33(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fin
Date: May 02, 2007
Hi Bill, Sounds as if your accuracy was superior to mine. You must do good work. Harold ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:16 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Harold, Sorry for the delay in thanking you for the advice. I ended up discussing the situation with Van's. Their position was that it had to be straight. The suggestion was to raise the rear spar (since mine is a tailwheel version I could only do that about 1/16 due to edge margin issues) and/or to trim some off the 981 front bracket. I ended up doing both plus filing some off the top hinge brackets so they were the same dimension from hole to aft edge as the two lower ones so that the straight edge technique would produce accurate results. After all that I'm between .005 off to absolutely straight. Van's said the .005 was close enough. Haven't drilled yet. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold Kovac To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, I checked mine with a drilled acorn/cap nut, string thru the drilled hole with a weight. Mine came out with about a 1/64th" off center error.....seems easier than a straight edge & worked with flaps too. Harold, RV9A Fuselage wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: RV9-List: fin Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Edition. 4/22/2007 8:18 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: fin
Date: May 02, 2007
Bill, Don't forget that you have to trim the front spar before installing it. For some reason Van's doesn't mention this until after you have built the VS. It is anyone's guess as to why then but it would be easier to do before riveting that thing together. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harold Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:09 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, Sounds as if your accuracy was superior to mine. You must do good work. Harold ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth <mailto:chenoweth(at)gwi.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:16 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Harold, Sorry for the delay in thanking you for the advice. I ended up discussing the situation with Van's. Their position was that it had to be straight. The suggestion was to raise the rear spar (since mine is a tailwheel version I could only do that about 1/16 due to edge margin issues) and/or to trim some off the 981 front bracket. I ended up doing both plus filing some off the top hinge brackets so they were the same dimension from hole to aft edge as the two lower ones so that the straight edge technique would produce accurate results. After all that I'm between .005 off to absolutely straight. Van's said the .005 was close enough. Haven't drilled yet. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold <mailto:kayce33(at)earthlink.net> Kovac Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, I checked mine with a drilled acorn/cap nut, string thru the drilled hole with a weight. Mine came out with about a 1/64th" off center error.....seems easier than a straight edge & worked with flaps too. Harold, RV9A Fuselage wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth <mailto:chenoweth(at)gwi.net> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: RV9-List: fin Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _____ Edition. 4/22/2007 8:18 PM href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Re: fin
Date: May 03, 2007
MessageBill, No issue there - I had it trimmed. The biggest problem seemed to be that the 981 was bottoming on the fin rib flanges before the rear spar was straight. Also, the fact that this is a tailwheel version severely limits the amount that I could move the rear spar up. Taken together I didn't have a lot of slack to get the amount of forwardness I needed to get the rear spar straight. As you surely have noticed the instructions re this are hamburger. My primary concern was not knowing just how straight the hinge line had to be. Ken at Van's generally dismisses my concerns about tolerances but in this case was adamant that it needed to be straight so I took it seriously. Reacting to Harold's comment I must say that I have pretty high expectations but only moderate skill. This combination can produce a fair amount of anxiety in situations like the current one. But, sometimes I luck out - often I don't. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:59 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: fin Bill, Don't forget that you have to trim the front spar before installing it. For some reason Van's doesn't mention this until after you have built the VS. It is anyone's guess as to why then but it would be easier to do before riveting that thing together. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harold Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:09 AM To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, Sounds as if your accuracy was superior to mine. You must do good work. Harold ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:16 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Harold, Sorry for the delay in thanking you for the advice. I ended up discussing the situation with Van's. Their position was that it had to be straight. The suggestion was to raise the rear spar (since mine is a tailwheel version I could only do that about 1/16 due to edge margin issues) and/or to trim some off the 981 front bracket. I ended up doing both plus filing some off the top hinge brackets so they were the same dimension from hole to aft edge as the two lower ones so that the straight edge technique would produce accurate results. After all that I'm between .005 off to absolutely straight. Van's said the .005 was close enough. Haven't drilled yet. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold Kovac To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:01 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: fin Hi Bill, I checked mine with a drilled acorn/cap nut, string thru the drilled hole with a weight. Mine came out with about a 1/64th" off center error.....seems easier than a straight edge & worked with flaps too. Harold, RV9A Fuselage wiring ----- Original Message ----- From: Chenoweth To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:21 PM Subject: RV9-List: fin Let me start with the questions first and then the story. The question: Is the rear spar of the fin straight enough when a straight edge laid along the hinge brackets is aft of the center one by about 1/32 inch? How about if it's out of line by more than 5/64 but less than 3/32? These are apparently my two choices. The story: If I mount the fin per the drawing, front spar ahead of hold-down bracket and fin pushed forward so that the hold-down bracket just contacts the flanges on the fin's bottom ribs, the rear fin spar is firmly against the 712 bulkhead but the out of true is the over 5/64 amount I mentioned above. Which, by the way, is the amount it turned out to be out of true when I built it. At that point the rudder seemed to work ok with it. If, however, I mount the fin with the forward spar behind the hold-down bracket and with the bracket just touching the flange of the fin's bottom rib, the rear fin spar does not seat against the 712 - it's about 1/32 aft of it at its top. But I get the less than 1/32 out-of-true measurement in the hinge line. Based on the way I'm making the up elevator stop having the rear fin spar not contact the 712 is not a problem because I can position the stop slightly aft to make good contact with the spar and still have it function properly with the elevator horns. Any answers/comments you'd care to make would be very much appreciated. Bill RV9 Albion, Maine href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Edition. 4/22/2007 8:18 PM href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV9-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 4/22/2007 8:18 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Blaine Aviation Weekend
Date: May 05, 2007
This is coming very soon but it should be a great fly-in. EAA Chapter 237 is having a fly-in pancake breakfast and lunch at Anoka County Airport in Blaine, MN on May 19th and 20th Chapter 237's Famous Pancake Breakfast with sausage and beverage runs from 7a.m. to noon and lunch of hamburgers, hot dogs and chili runs until 4p.m. There are two really great aviation museums on the airport. Golden Wings Museum has a collection of beautifully restored vintage airplanes that includes five trimotors. American Wings Air Museum has a collection of warbirds from WWII to Dessert Storm. They also have a Wright Flyer replica, an original 1911 Steco biplane plus many other exhibits. There was a Swift, an Ercoupe, a Luscombe T8-F plus a lot of other vintage airplanes, warbirds and the usual later model airplanes at last year's event. There will be a Hangar Dance Saturday evening with the Sights and Sounds of Dave Andrews Big Band. This has been a lot of fun for everyone that attended in past years. More can be found at www.eaachapter237.org Thank you, Lyle Peterson President, EAA Chapter 237 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: elevator travel
Date: May 07, 2007
I'm curious about elevator travel for the tailwheel 9s. If any of you with flying tailwheel planes could let me know how much up travel you have and if you think it's adequate I'd be very appreciative. Thanks Bill 9 Tailwheel - fitting the empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Fwd: Watsonville airshow volunteers needed....FLY in FREE &
Gas ~$3.39 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: IO-320
Date: May 10, 2007
I'm considering building an RV9-A. One of the factors I'm weighing is the availability of an injected engine. Has anyone have any information on an IO-320 installation? Van's web site only calls for the O-320. Thanks and regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: IO-320
I am building a 9A with an IO-320. The Superior cold induction sump issue is supposed to be resolved "real soon now". In the meantime, my engine is on order. I have been offered the chance to change the configuration but I can still afford to wait. Talking to Van's engineers, I will end up using the same cowl as the -7A angle valve IO-360 without the "snout" under the chin. The forward facing servo will be fed air from the left "nostril" instead. It's a little hard to see because of the prop blur, but the red RV on Van's main page has a smooth chin. If you follow the link to the RV-8/8A, the 3-view drawings show an 8 with a snout and an 8A with a smooth chin. The vertical servo in place of a traditional carburetor would be a much easier installation. It would look just like an O-320 and use the same cowl, intake, etc. The biggest difference would be the fuel boost pump. Hope this helps, John Morgensen Rafael wrote: > Im considering building an RV9-A. One of the factors Im weighing is > the availability of an injected engine. Has anyone have any information > on an IO-320 installation? Vans web site only calls for the O-320. > > > > Thanks and regards, > > > > Rafael > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Brake pedal position:
In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be necessary to depress two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with the designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals. Having never set up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not sure what I am doing. Could someone with more experience advise me before I make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong place? Mac ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: IO-320
I recently had an interesting chat with Larry Vetterman who builds the exhaust systems for Van's. He has an RV-7A with an IO-0-360 with the smooth cowl without the fish mouth lower induction opening. It his opinion that if using an injected engine the best choice is an updraft induction sump and use the cowling with the forward facing fish mouth. He said his test indicates that gives 1 1/2 more inches of manifold pressure. You might want to give him a call. Dennis Thomas --- John Morgensen wrote: > > > I am building a 9A with an IO-320. The Superior cold > induction sump > issue is supposed to be resolved "real soon now". In > the meantime, my > engine is on order. I have been offered the chance > to change the > configuration but I can still afford to wait. > Talking to Van's > engineers, I will end up using the same cowl as the > -7A angle valve > IO-360 without the "snout" under the chin. The > forward facing servo will > be fed air from the left "nostril" instead. It's a > little hard to see > because of the prop blur, but the red RV on Van's > main page has a smooth > chin. If you follow the link to the RV-8/8A, the > 3-view drawings show an > 8 with a snout and an 8A with a smooth chin. > > The vertical servo in place of a traditional > carburetor would be a much > easier installation. It would look just like an > O-320 and use the same > cowl, intake, etc. The biggest difference would be > the fuel boost pump. > > Hope this helps, > John Morgensen > > > Rafael wrote: > > Im considering building an RV9-A. One of the > factors Im weighing is > > the availability of an injected engine. Has > anyone have any information > > on an IO-320 installation? Vans web site only > calls for the O-320. > > > > > > > > Thanks and regards, > > > > > > > > Rafael > > > > * > > > > > > * > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: FW: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 11, 2007
I originally asked this question on the RV-7 list, where I got some very useful information. It occurs to me that I should also ask in the RV9-list. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and best regards, Rafael _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WILLIAM LETCHER <wletcher(at)msn.com>
Subject: FW: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 11, 2007
Rafael Having flown and built both I prefer the 9 for the stability and better gli de. An 0 320 is enough power for either of the planes. With the price of fu el the one and a half to two gal an hr. fuel savings is a big deal over the long run. You won't be sorry with either airplane. Unless areobatics is high on your list of thinges to do stick with the 9, they will do an aileron roll almost as quick as the 7. Bill From: rafael(at)gforcecable.comTo: rv9-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV9-List: FW : RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9ADate: Fri, 11 May 2007 07:45:29 -0400 I originally asked this question on the RV-7 list, where I got some very us eful information. It occurs to me that I should also ask in the RV9-list. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and best regards, Rafael From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of RafaelSent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:19 PMTo: rv7 -list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Although I=92ve been flying for over 29 years, I=92m about to become a new builder. I=92m evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interes ts are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South C arolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would pr obably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher f aster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What=92s the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I=92ve heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 ga l total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities ? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questio ns appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal position:
Mac, When you say, "necessary to depress two of the master cylinders". How much did you press them down? If it was just a tiny amount then probably no troubles. If a lot then something else might be wrong. Your statement, "designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals" really makes me wonder what your talking about. Are you sure your not talking about the two tabs that the rudder cables hook up to? There should be one on the right side of the plane and one on the left. Can you take a picture and post it? Mike Ice RV-9 Firewall forward ----- Original Message ----- From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 4:40 PM Subject: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system > brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be necessary to depress > two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with > the designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals. Having never set > up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not > sure what I am doing. Could someone with more experience advise me before > I make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong place? > Mac > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal position:
Michael, The "Designated Tab" I am referring to is the one riveted to the brake pedal. My mistake about welded. This is the tab drawing 37 shows the large hemi-spherical head of the brake cylinder attaching to with the AN3-11 bolt. After further study I see that the brake cylinder cannot be depressed as it returns to it's fully expanded position due to the internal return spring. I see that I must drill the attachment hole for the AN3-11 bolt in different positions on the tab depending on the particular rudder pedal (fore or aft) position in order to get the top edges of each brake pedal pair even with each other. Am I makeing my self clear? I will try to post a photograph. I have never done so before. I am not much of a computer whiz. Mac -----Original Message----- >From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> >Sent: May 11, 2007 9:34 AM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > >Mac, > >When you say, "necessary to depress two of the master cylinders". How much >did you press them down? If it was just a tiny amount then probably no >troubles. If a lot then something else might be wrong. > >Your statement, "designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals" really >makes me wonder what your talking about. Are you sure your not talking about >the two tabs that the rudder cables hook up to? There should be one on the >right side of the plane and one on the left. > >Can you take a picture and post it? > >Mike Ice >RV-9 >Firewall forward >----- Original Message ----- >From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> >To: >Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 4:40 PM >Subject: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > >> >> In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system >> brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be necessary to depress >> two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with >> the designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals. Having never set >> up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not >> sure what I am doing. Could someone with more experience advise me before >> I make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong place? >> Mac >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal position:
Mac, It sounds like you have it figured out correctly. Build on and have fun. If you still have doubts drop an email to Van's. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 11:47 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > Michael, > The "Designated Tab" I am referring to is the one riveted to the brake > pedal. My mistake about welded. This is the tab drawing 37 shows the large > hemi-spherical head of the brake cylinder attaching to with the AN3-11 > bolt. After further study I see that the brake cylinder cannot be > depressed as it returns to it's fully expanded position due to the > internal return spring. I see that I must drill the attachment hole for > the AN3-11 bolt in different positions on the tab depending on the > particular rudder pedal (fore or aft) position in order to get the top > edges of each brake pedal pair even with each other. Am I makeing my self > clear? I will try to post a photograph. I have never done so before. I am > not much of a computer whiz. > Mac > > -----Original Message----- >>From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> >>Sent: May 11, 2007 9:34 AM >>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: >> >> >>Mac, >> >>When you say, "necessary to depress two of the master cylinders". How much >>did you press them down? If it was just a tiny amount then probably no >>troubles. If a lot then something else might be wrong. >> >>Your statement, "designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals" >>really >>makes me wonder what your talking about. Are you sure your not talking >>about >>the two tabs that the rudder cables hook up to? There should be one on the >>right side of the plane and one on the left. >> >>Can you take a picture and post it? >> >>Mike Ice >>RV-9 >>Firewall forward >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> >>To: >>Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 4:40 PM >>Subject: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: >> >> >>> >>> In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system >>> brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be necessary to >>> depress >>> two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with >>> the designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals. Having never >>> set >>> up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not >>> sure what I am doing. Could someone with more experience advise me >>> before >>> I make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong place? >>> Mac >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: McCarty <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal position:
Mike, Thanks for the input. My confidence needs the boost. Mac -----Original Message----- >From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> >Sent: May 12, 2007 9:53 AM >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > >Mac, > >It sounds like you have it figured out correctly. Build on and have fun. If >you still have doubts drop an email to Van's. > >Mike > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> >To: >Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 11:47 AM >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: > > >> >> Michael, >> The "Designated Tab" I am referring to is the one riveted to the brake >> pedal. My mistake about welded. This is the tab drawing 37 shows the large >> hemi-spherical head of the brake cylinder attaching to with the AN3-11 >> bolt. After further study I see that the brake cylinder cannot be >> depressed as it returns to it's fully expanded position due to the >> internal return spring. I see that I must drill the attachment hole for >> the AN3-11 bolt in different positions on the tab depending on the >> particular rudder pedal (fore or aft) position in order to get the top >> edges of each brake pedal pair even with each other. Am I makeing my self >> clear? I will try to post a photograph. I have never done so before. I am >> not much of a computer whiz. >> Mac >> >> -----Original Message----- >>>From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> >>>Sent: May 11, 2007 9:34 AM >>>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >>>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: >>> >>> >>>Mac, >>> >>>When you say, "necessary to depress two of the master cylinders". How much >>>did you press them down? If it was just a tiny amount then probably no >>>troubles. If a lot then something else might be wrong. >>> >>>Your statement, "designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals" >>>really >>>makes me wonder what your talking about. Are you sure your not talking >>>about >>>the two tabs that the rudder cables hook up to? There should be one on the >>>right side of the plane and one on the left. >>> >>>Can you take a picture and post it? >>> >>>Mike Ice >>>RV-9 >>>Firewall forward >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> >>>To: >>>Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 4:40 PM >>>Subject: RV9-List: Brake pedal position: >>> >>> >>>> >>>> In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system >>>> brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be necessary to >>>> depress >>>> two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with >>>> the designated tabs that are welded to the brake pedals. Having never >>>> set >>>> up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not >>>> sure what I am doing. Could someone with more experience advise me >>>> before >>>> I make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong place? >>>> Mac >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WILLIAM LETCHER <wletcher(at)msn.com>
Subject: Brake pedal position:
Date: May 12, 2007
Most of the builders in our group use one long bolt going all the way acros s each peddle instead of the two short ones Vans recommends.If the brake cy linder rod is depressed at all brake fluid will not pass through it. (will not be released) All the brake cylinders must freely return to the non appl ied position. Finishing RV 9a Bill > Date: Sat, 12 May 2007 10:37:21 -0400> From: mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position:> > --> RV9-List message posted by: McCarty > > Mike,> Tha nks for the input. My confidence needs the boost.> Mac> > -----Original Mes sage-----> >From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>> >Sent: May 12, 2007 9:53 AM> >To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal posit >> >Mac,> >> >It sounds like you have it figured out correctly. Build on an d have fun. If > >you still have doubts drop an email to Van's.> >> >Mike> >> >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "McCarty" <mac11hsd(at)earthlink.net >> >To: > >Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 11:47 AM> >Su bject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position:> >> >> >> --> RV9-List message p osted by: McCarty > >>> >> Michael,> >> The "Design ated Tab" I am referring to is the one riveted to the brake > >> pedal. My mistake about welded. This is the tab drawing 37 shows the large > >> hemi- spherical head of the brake cylinder attaching to with the AN3-11 > >> bolt . After further study I see that the brake cylinder cannot be > >> depresse d as it returns to it's fully expanded position due to the > >> internal re turn spring. I see that I must drill the attachment hole for > >> the AN3-1 1 bolt in different positions on the tab depending on the > >> particular r udder pedal (fore or aft) position in order to get the top > >> edges of ea ch brake pedal pair even with each other. Am I makeing my self > >> clear? I will try to post a photograph. I have never done so before. I am > >> not much of a computer whiz.> >> Mac> >>> >> -----Original Message-----> >>>Fr om: "Michael T. Ice" > >>>Sent: May 11, 2007 9:34 AM> >>>To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com> >>>Subject: Re: RV9-List: Brake pedal position:> >> >>>Mac,> >>>> >>>When you say, "necessary to depress two of the master cyl inders". How much> >>>did you press them down? If it was just a tiny amount then probably no> >>>troubles. If a lot then something else might be wrong .> >>>> >>>Your statement, "designated tabs that are welded to the brake pe dals" > >>>really> >>>makes me wonder what your talking about. Are you sure your not talking > >>>about> >>>the two tabs that the rudder cables hook u p to? There should be one on the> >>>right side of the plane and one on the left.> >>>> >>>Can you take a picture and post it?> >>>> >>>Mike Ice> >>>R V-9> >>>Firewall forward> >>>----- Original Message ----- > >>>From: "McCar ty" > >>>To: > >>>Sent: Thu rsday, May 10, 2007 4:40 PM> >>>Subject: RV9-List: Brake pedal position:> > et>> >>>>> >>>> In attempting to determine the proper position to place the dual system> >>>> brake pedals for my 9-A I have found that it will be nec essary to > >>>> depress> >>>> two of the master cylinders in order to have the bolt holes line up with> >>>> the designated tabs that are welded to t he brake pedals. Having never > >>>> set> >>>> up a hydralic system before I have no experience to draw on and am not> >>>> sure what I am doing. Coul d someone with more experience advise me > >>>> before> >>>> I make a mista ke and drill a hole in the wrong place?> >>>> Mac> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > >> >> >> ==============> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 12, 2007
First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after considering the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is my understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures and marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this performance is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards the FP implementation, but I would like to hear comments. Thanks and best regards to all, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: FW: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 13, 2007
I forgot to copy the RV-9 list. _____ From: Rafael [mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com] Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:57 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A James, I'm in Aiken, SC. I would absolutely love to take a look at the projects and would gladly pay all expenses for a ride in an RV. I'm retired, so any time any day is convenient for me. My decision once more changes to the 9A over the 7A. Last night a voice kept telling me: Keep It Simple Stupid! After running a spread sheet with the number$, a 9A with a fixed pitch prop, and an O-320 engine would plenty of airplane for me. My cell # (803)292-7410 _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Clark Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:12 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Rafael, Where is SC are you? If you are ever in the Columbia area, we probably can arrange for you to see an RV9A, RV6's, maybe RV7A, several RV7s under construction, an although you did not reference such maybe an RV4 under construction and an RV10 just getting started. Probably could rustle up a ride as well. Now to your questions ... I think you have received good answers already but ask yourself the following ... 1. Will MOST of my flying be cross-country? 2. Will I EVER want to do aerobatics? Both planes fly quite nicely. The stick forces on the 9(A) is a bit "heavier" as you get farther into the roll to one side or the other but it still flies "like an RV". James On 5/9/07, Rafael wrote: Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List http://forums.matronics.com james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2007
Subject: Initial build decisions
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Raffel, In todays world the vote (mine) goes to the injected engine. The big reason is you can run the engine lean of peak for the BEST economy. You can not do that with a carburated engine. The O-360 will always run at a higher GPH than an injected engine. My additional plus ws one less control to have to use (heat). Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2007
Subject: RV9A and why
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Rafeal, I went thru the same decisions. I went for the 9A beacuse of the better handling as slow speeds. I however went with the IO-360 (ala - RV7 fwf). I did this because with the IO 360 and LOW COMPRESSION pistons you still have 167 hp. More than enough for the 9A. The big reason again is: First, the low compression version is 7.2 : 1 which allows for (need i say) auto gas. I refer to it as garbage gas. This can give you the lowest cost in fuel as the years go by. Good HP but with the lowest cost. Second: The injected engine can be run at maximum efficiency ie: lean of peak. The carb engine can not. So I traded about 30# extra in the 360 engine for lower operating cost. Next, I bought the engine with a solid crank so I could not add a constant speed prop. My project is at the prop spinner stage. As I finish this up in the next few days, I will be doing the wings next. I bought the QB kit and I have about 1250 hours in it now. You can look over my build at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn where I have been documenting the build. I have my comments about the build both + & - . So far it has been a good build. I expect to have it flying in 3 to 4 months. Of course depending on the hurrican season here in florida (St. Petersburg). Then again, using the IO 320 is a very good option. I would do it with the 150 hp engine and a constant speed prop to get the whole 150 hp. Then again, the cost of upkeep on the constant speed prop has to be figured in the equasion. So I went for the simpler fixed sensenich prop and the low comp. IO 360 with a fixed prop. Gives me the HP with the simplicity and few controls. Does this all make sense? Its the way I figured it and went. Jim Nelson N15JN RV9-A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2007
Subject: RV9A
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Rafeal, Are you doing a new engine? If so the cost difference is almost nill (in airplane money) I believe it was about a grand less +/- for the IO 360 vers IO 360. I bought mine at Mattituck in NY. Bought it at SNF so I could get a few freebees. Paint color, shipping but then again it may make little diff in the total cost. I also went with the E-Mag ignitions for the best power and economy that electronic ignitions give. ( one "E" and one "P"). Did I say I'm cheep?? If a used engine - well, it all up to you and the pocket book. BTW, have you flown in the "9" yet? I took a ride in the factory 9 and it was a great flyer. Very nice near the stall if that is what you call a stall. You had to work to get it to quit flying. It had the O-320 with constant speed prop. Went --- well, very fast. Take off was very quick. Of course if you put a 150 hp in a cessna 150, it would probably go like that (on take off only). Just joking--- Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
Rafael, A couple things: 1) Regarding Vne and the O-360, it shouldn't be a big deal with the RV-9. There are quite a few O-360 powered -9's out there, and you won't flirt with Vne in cruise. The only time it would be an issue is in a dive/descent, a small part of your time flying. One will need to watch for Vne with both the O-360 or O-320 in a descent - the former will make it a bit easier to get close in a more shallow descent. Just throttle back, that's it. 2) Between the O- and IO-360, there are many threads on this in the archives for the various forums. Weight will be a non issue. The injected models main advantage IMHO is to run lean of peak and achieve 1 gph improvement. A more balanced fuel mixture to each cylinder is possible. You don't have to worry about carb icing. But, there is some complexity, higher fuel line pressures, need for a return fuel line to a tank and more expensive fuel selector, more difficult hot starts. There are others on these forums that have much more real world info since I'm still a builder. 3) FP vs CS prop - this is one of the the top three debates that rage amongst the OBAM market (along with to prime or not, slider vs tip-up, etc). I'm still deciding on that one, and have a year still to worry. Frankly, I'm leaning toward an FP - lighter weight, MUCH cheaper, less maintenance/overhaul issues. Craig Catto builds a beautiful 3 blade prop that I have flown behind in a -9 - smooth, excellent craftmanship, and costs $1800. He (and other manufacturers) can set you up with a prop that is coarse pitched that will give you Van's cruise numbers. Comparing performance numbers from various builders shows cruise numbers about equal between a properly configured cruise FP vs a CS. You will sacrifice climb rate/takeoff distance a bit, so if you fly into hot and high or short fields all the time, then you need to re-think this. But honestly, I do all my flying in Illinois and elsewhere into airports with at least 3500' strips - really look at Van's T/O and landing numbers with a FP prop in the -9. There are few places where you can't go that a CS will make a difference. On the flip side a CS resell may be better, especially with the -7. Acro and formation flying have some benefit with a CS. One thing against the FP is slowing down and descent rate. Coming into the pattern and trying to slow down takes a little more forethought and earlier energy management with the FP, since the CS can give a little drag when in fine pitch and help out. This is particularly so with the -9. Basically, I think the argument is a little silly, as some practice will make you competent. I fly a Dakota with a CS, but have no trouble when I grab the glider-like Diamond DA-20 with FP after practicing with it a little once or twice. So, for me, I'll likely go with the FP and use the $5000 saved over the CS for about 1500 gal of avgas. That's quite a few cross-country trips! Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Subject: Carb and LOP
Date: May 14, 2007
Hi Guys, Just another data point. I have an carbed ECI 0-320 with an Emag, Pmag and a Hartzell in my -9A. I can run this engine LOP at several cruise points very effectively. It does not give me ultimate flexibility like injection, but it can be done. I have a Dynon engine monitor used to take lots of data that really helps to know what is going on. If anyone is interested in more information, let me know. Cheers, Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Carb and LOP
Pete, Nice to hear - I assume you are keying in on CHT's on the Dynon to achieve LOP. What kind of performance numbers do you get, such as fuel burn vs speed running LOP? Thanks, Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tool source
From: "Jeff Rosson" <jeffrosson(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2007
Hi, New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but if it helps someone, great. Thanks! Jeff Rosson Merritt Island, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 02, 2007
Jeff, I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just great, very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic squeezer from Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly and the quality of the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RV9-List: Tool source Hi, New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but if it helps someone, great. Thanks! Jeff Rosson Merritt Island, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2007
From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Hi Jeff, I bought most of my tools from Cleveland and I can't say enough good things about them. They are themselves RV Builders and extremely helpful. The most important thing is when you call them they answer the phone. You don't need to listen to a computer for 5 or 10 minutes to get what you want. Secondly they are a good source of general information. You can ask a question about building and they will advise you. I don't think you can go wrong with them. Dennis Thomas RV-9 355 hours and loving it. --- Jeff Rosson wrote: > > > Hi, > > New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to > arrive Wednesday, but I need a bunch of tools. I > have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who seem > to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown > seems to have better pricing, and I have already > ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air drill from > them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention > Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their > prices on other items is a bit less, too, and I > wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two > companies have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas > for Brown you have to select each one individually? > > Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a > spreadsheet with Van's suggested tools vs. part > number and pricing for these three companies that I > would be happy to send out to anyone who is > interested. Heck, I will try to attach it to this > post. I also included some other recommended tools > I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally > complete yet, but if it helps someone, great. > > Thanks! > Jeff Rosson > Merritt Island, FL > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Date: Jun 02, 2007
Jeff, I purchased a tool kit from Brown about 3 yrs ago, They let me add and delete to get what I wanted in the kit... Very nice people to deal with. btw I'm building a RV9 Tom C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Rosson" <jeffrosson(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RV9-List: Tool source > > Hi, > > New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I > need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who > seem to be highly regarded, but also at Brown?Ts. Brown seems to have > better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air > drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has > free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, > too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies > have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select > each one individually? > > Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's > suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that > I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will > try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended > tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but > if it helps someone, great. > > Thanks! > Jeff Rosson > Merritt Island, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Jeff, You get to build your airplane at least 3 times so enjoy the process. Tools can be more than metal objects used to bend, cut, drill or rivet. Tools can be websites such as this one and others that have gone before you. It is unlikely that you will encounter or screw up something that someone else hasn't already done, unless your very imaginative or creative. If you have not checked with VAF, www.vansairforce.net, website you should. The matronics and VAF websites should go into some of your favorites for research. Check out, www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm, look under RV-9's for websites that others before you have built with ideas and pictures. I have some favorites that I check constantly. But for hand tools: You can find tools almost anywhere. I did not buy a generic "one size fits all" kit from anyone place and I have been quite happy with my decision. Also unless your impressed with name brands you can save a lot of $ buying the same tool for less. Also don't forget about used tools, they work great and provide good service and will save you more $$. Check out "The Yard" www.yardstore.com/, great folks, good service. I bought a pneumatic rivet squeezer www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?Action=ViewCategory&Category-, from them, it was used and had performed flawlessly. If you don't want to spend the money to buy a pneumatic rivet squeezer then don't ever try one. The first time you try one you will be ordering one so fast because you will wonder how you got along with out it in the first place. Once you get it set for the size of rivet you are using it squeezes all the rest perfectly. Along the line of rivets on the back of the horizontal stabilizer you will agree that the money you paid for this tool is well spent. I also bought and have used and love my DRDT dimpler, www.experimentalaero.com/. Your going to need a set of "close quarter dimple dies" which will be used with your pop rivet gun. You won't use them very often but when you need one almost nothing else will work. By the way use finishing nails for the mandrels after you break all the ones that come with the dies. Another tool you will find very useful is a 90 degree angle drill, the smaller the better. Are you a builder or a flyer? Mike Ice Anchorage, Alaska RV-9 (tail dragger) fuselage just about complete, Working on Firewall Forward. Just put the motor mount on for the first time yesterday, today I will take it off, make adjustments, put it back on, take some measurements, take it off, repeat 100 times. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Rosson" <jeffrosson(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 8:15 AM Subject: RV9-List: Tool source > > Hi, > > New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I > need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who > seem to be highly regarded, but also at Brown?Ts. Brown seems to have > better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air > drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has > free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, > too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies > have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select > each one individually? > > Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's > suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that > I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will > try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended > tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but > if it helps someone, great. > > Thanks! > Jeff Rosson > Merritt Island, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Carl, What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) Mike Ice RV-9 Anchorage, Alaska ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Jeff, > > I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just great, > very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic squeezer from > Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly and the quality of > the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy > from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less > at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Hi, > > New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I > need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who > seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have > better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air > drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has > free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, > too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies > have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select > each one individually? > > Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's > suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that > I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will > try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended > tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but > if it helps someone, great. > > Thanks! > Jeff Rosson > Merritt Island, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Dennis, Do you have a flying 9? Or is your a 9A? Or did you mean your 355 hours into the building process? If flying how do you like your 9 so far? Any problems learning to land the 9? Mike Ice RV-9 firewall forward Anchorage, Alaska ----- Original Message ----- From: <dthomas773(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 3:02 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > Hi Jeff, > I bought most of my tools from Cleveland and I can't > say enough good things about them. They are > themselves RV Builders and extremely helpful. > > The most important thing is when you call them they > answer the phone. You don't need to listen to a > computer for 5 or 10 minutes to get what you want. > Secondly they are a good source of general > information. You can ask a question about building > and they will advise you. > > I don't think you can go wrong with them. > > Dennis Thomas > RV-9 355 hours and loving it. > --- Jeff Rosson wrote: > >> >> >> Hi, >> >> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to >> arrive Wednesday, but I need a bunch of tools. I >> have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who seem >> to be highly regarded, but also at Brown?Ts. Brown >> seems to have better pricing, and I have already >> ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air drill from >> them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention >> Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their >> prices on other items is a bit less, too, and I >> wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two >> companies have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas >> for Brown you have to select each one individually? >> >> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a >> spreadsheet with Van's suggested tools vs. part >> number and pricing for these three companies that I >> would be happy to send out to anyone who is >> interested. Heck, I will try to attach it to this >> post. I also included some other recommended tools >> I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally >> complete yet, but if it helps someone, great. >> >> Thanks! >> Jeff Rosson >> Merritt Island, FL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >> >> >> >> >> >> browse >> Subscriptions page, >> FAQ, >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List >> >> Web Forums! >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Mike, It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source Carl, What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) Mike Ice RV-9 Anchorage, Alaska ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Jeff, > > I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just great, > very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic squeezer from > Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly and the quality of > the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy > from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less > at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Hi, > > New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I > need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who > seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have > better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air > drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's has > free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, > too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies > have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select > each one individually? > > Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's > suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies that > I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will > try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended > tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, but > if it helps someone, great. > > Thanks! > Jeff Rosson > Merritt Island, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Carl, That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" instead of pneumatic. I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy one. I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and over again. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Mike, > > It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : > http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) > > Mike Ice > RV-9 > Anchorage, Alaska > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> >> Jeff, >> >> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just great, >> very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic squeezer >> from >> Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly and the quality >> of >> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy >> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less >> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >> Hi, >> >> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I >> need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who >> seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have >> better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air >> drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's >> has >> free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, >> too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies >> have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select >> each one individually? >> >> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies >> that >> I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will >> try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended >> tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, >> but >> if it helps someone, great. >> >> Thanks! >> Jeff Rosson >> Merritt Island, FL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 03, 2007
OK, I was just in a hurry and thinking about brakes, now if I could only find a light 22" deep throat for my hydraulic squeezer for $50, I would be a happy camper. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:35 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source Carl, That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" instead of pneumatic. I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy one. I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and over again. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Mike, > > It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : > http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) > > Mike Ice > RV-9 > Anchorage, Alaska > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> >> Jeff, >> >> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just great, >> very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic squeezer >> from >> Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly and the quality >> of >> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy >> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less >> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >> Hi, >> >> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but I >> need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, who >> seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems to have >> better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet gun and air >> drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to mention Brown's >> has >> free shipping). Most all of their prices on other items is a bit less, >> too, and I wonder if people use Avery/Cleveland as these two companies >> have fairly compete kits of tools, whereas for Brown you have to select >> each one individually? >> >> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies >> that >> I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, I will >> try to attach it to this post. I also included some other recommended >> tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally complete yet, >> but >> if it helps someone, great. >> >> Thanks! >> Jeff Rosson >> Merritt Island, FL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Wimps! I have built my entire -9 with a rock and a stick! ;) Actually, I used the Avery's squeezer and saved the money I didn't spend on a pneumatic squeezer on replacement parts. Bill Just about ready to move to the airport! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:35 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source Carl, That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" instead of pneumatic. I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy one. I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and over again. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Mike, > > It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : > http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) > > Mike Ice > RV-9 > Anchorage, Alaska > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> --> >> >> Jeff, >> >> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just >> great, very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic >> squeezer from Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly >> and the quality of >> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy >> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less >> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> --> >> >> Hi, >> >> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but >> I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, >> who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems >> to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet >> gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to >> mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on >> other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use >> Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of >> tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? >> >> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies >> that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, >> I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other >> recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally >> complete yet, but >> if it helps someone, great. >> >> Thanks! >> Jeff Rosson >> Merritt Island, FL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Carl, Like you, when I started the thought of picking up my rivet gun frightened me. Now I don't even give it a second thought. No need for that 22" deep throat, in other words. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 9:30 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source OK, I was just in a hurry and thinking about brakes, now if I could only find a light 22" deep throat for my hydraulic squeezer for $50, I would be a happy camper. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:35 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source Carl, That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" instead of pneumatic. I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy one. I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and over again. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Mike, > > It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : > http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) > > Mike Ice > RV-9 > Anchorage, Alaska > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> --> >> >> Jeff, >> >> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just >> great, very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic >> squeezer from Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly >> and the quality of >> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will buy >> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ less >> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> --> >> >> Hi, >> >> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but >> I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, >> who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems >> to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet >> gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to >> mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on >> other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use >> Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of >> tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? >> >> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies >> that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, >> I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other >> recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally >> complete yet, but >> if it helps someone, great. >> >> Thanks! >> Jeff Rosson >> Merritt Island, FL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
Bill, Yeah, and I bet you mined the bauxite in the hills of Jamaica. On the way to the airport, way to go Bill. Take pictures of the first flight. When you get here you will have a place to stay. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:03 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Wimps! > > I have built my entire -9 with a rock and a stick! ;) > > Actually, I used the Avery's squeezer and saved the money I didn't spend > on a pneumatic squeezer on replacement parts. > > Bill > Just about ready to move to the airport! > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:35 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just > joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" instead > of > pneumatic. > > I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet > squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy > one. > > I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and > over > again. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> >> Mike, >> >> It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : >> http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. > Ice >> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >> Carl, >> >> What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) >> >> Mike Ice >> RV-9 >> Anchorage, Alaska >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM >> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >>> --> >>> >>> Jeff, >>> >>> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just >>> great, very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic >>> squeezer from Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered quickly > >>> and the quality of >>> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will > buy >>> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ > less >>> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >>> >>> Carl W Bell >>> New Venture Consulting >>> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >>> www.newventureconsulting.com >>> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Rosson >>> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >>> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >>> >>> --> >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but >>> I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and Cleveland, > >>> who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems >>> to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet >>> gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to >>> mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on >>> other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use >>> Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of >>> tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? >>> >>> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >>> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three companies > >>> that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. Heck, > >>> I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other >>> recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally >>> complete yet, but >>> if it helps someone, great. >>> >>> Thanks! >>> Jeff Rosson >>> Merritt Island, FL >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Attachments: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com>
Subject: Tool source
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Mike, Will do, if I'm not too busy flying. As for the place to stay, we might need four beds. One of our chapter members is about to finish his Murphy Super Rebel and we have both been talking about flying to AK when we are finished. Of course, I will have to slow WAY down for him. What is impressive about that monster is that it can go 150 mph Vcr. Not too bad for a flying school bus. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:28 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source Bill, Yeah, and I bet you mined the bauxite in the hills of Jamaica. On the way to the airport, way to go Bill. Take pictures of the first flight. When you get here you will have a place to stay. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill(at)repucci.com> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:03 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > Wimps! > > I have built my entire -9 with a rock and a stick! ;) > > Actually, I used the Avery's squeezer and saved the money I didn't > spend on a pneumatic squeezer on replacement parts. > > Bill > Just about ready to move to the airport! > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. > Ice > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:35 PM > To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source > > > Carl, > > That is exactly what I have with the adjustable set holder. I was just > joking with you because in your first email you said, Hydraulic" > instead of pneumatic. > > I totally agree with you, I would not be with out a pneumatic rivet > squeezer. Every time I loan it to someone I know they are going to buy > one. > > I did the slow build wings and the squeezer paid for itself over and > over again. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source > > >> --> >> >> Mike, >> >> It is the best tool I own for building RV's, check out : >> http://www.averytools.com/cart/c-13-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx >> >> Carl W Bell >> New Venture Consulting >> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >> www.newventureconsulting.com >> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. > Ice >> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:15 AM >> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >> Carl, >> >> What does a "hydraulic" squeezer look like? :>) >> >> Mike Ice >> RV-9 >> Anchorage, Alaska >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:23 PM >> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Tool source >> >> >>> --> >>> >>> Jeff, >>> >>> I just bought a partial set of tools from Avery and they are just >>> great, very good quality. I also bought a clone USA made hydraulic >>> squeezer from Brown and a Sioux 3x rivet gun. They delivered >>> quickly > >>> and the quality of >>> the clone squeezer seems fine for 500$. I'm happy with all and will > buy >>> from both again. The price for the rivet gun and squeezer were 150$ > less >>> at Brown and the only reason I didn't buy the lot from Avery. >>> >>> Carl W Bell >>> New Venture Consulting >>> Mobile: 803.640.2760 >>> www.newventureconsulting.com >>> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Rosson >>> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 12:15 PM >>> To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV9-List: Tool source >>> >>> --> >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> New builder here. My RV9A Empennage kit is to arrive Wednesday, but >>> I need a bunch of tools. I have been looking at Avery and >>> Cleveland, > >>> who seem to be highly regarded, but also at Browns. Brown seems >>> to have better pricing, and I have already ordered a Sioux 3X rivet >>> gun and air drill from them, saving about $175 right there (not to >>> mention Brown's has free shipping). Most all of their prices on >>> other items is a bit less, too, and I wonder if people use >>> Avery/Cleveland as these two companies have fairly compete kits of >>> tools, whereas for Brown you have to select each one individually? >>> >>> Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a spreadsheet with Van's >>> suggested tools vs. part number and pricing for these three >>> companies > >>> that I would be happy to send out to anyone who is interested. >>> Heck, > >>> I will try to attach it to this post. I also included some other >>> recommended tools I have read are helpful. The sheet is not totally >>> complete yet, but if it helps someone, great. >>> >>> Thanks! >>> Jeff Rosson >>> Merritt Island, FL >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116062#116062 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Attachments: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/tool_list_942.xls >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Tool source
If you review the archives, folks have been quite happy with the 'ABC's' (Avery, Brown, Cleveland). Another to look at is PlaneTools/Isham. Unless you want to get used and piecemeal, I would recommend a kit. The kits usually save you 10% or so, and are fairly complete. I got mine from Avery at OSH last year and got even more discounts, plus did a fair amount of substituting (eg DRDT-2 instead of C-frame). They were very accomodating, and Bob personally took care of everything despite running ragged at the show. Squeezer came off ebay for $200. Carl RV-9A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tool source
From: "Jeff Rosson" <jeffrosson(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Thanks to all of you for your recommendations and comments. Note to Mike: I am a builder. I haven't flown as PIC since 1981. I have dreamed of building my own airplane since 1965. I had started scratch-building a wood Falconar F12 and was having a blast. I was even milling my own spruce, so there was no doubt I was a builder and not a lowly assembler! My mission changed a couple of weeks ago to where a Van's better met my needs so, with the tail section and most all wing ribs done, I hung it up and am now about to embark on the RV-9A journey. Anyway, I have a pretty well equipped wood working shop, but this metal work is something totally different. I have been going through the list archives (many hours) and reading different RV-7/9 web sites and I have a much better idea of what is required, and some of it all is a bit intimidating. But, I figure if I can scratch build a wooden airplane (well, part of it), I ought to be able to figure out how to assemble a metal airplane! Yes, I am joking about assembling vs. building. There is a heck of a lot more to a Van's that just simple assembly. I wouldn't be so intimidated if I really thought all you did was cleco and rivet this thing. Some of my scratch-building smugness was lost last week as I was trying to figure out what the heck all the tools were used for! Anyway, though my first kit will arrive Wednesday, I still have some work to do to turn my wooden airplane factory into a metal airplane factory. That will take a short while, especially since I had a bit of minor finger surgery and may have to have some more. But, I will try to have most of my tools on order today and tomorrow. I appreciate everyone's suggestions. This is going to be fun. Jeff Rosson Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116334#116334 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tool source
From: "Jeff Rosson" <jeffrosson(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Well, I will be delayed a tad getting started. I just got back from seeing a hand surgeon. Prior to giving up on my wooden F12, I had a minor mishap with my table saw. I was doing something dumb and a sliver of wood kicked back and embedded itself into my index finger a couple of weeks ago. The ER doctor got most of it out, but it appears that when the sliver came in, in broke in two. Part of it slid off the side of my bone and that was the part we removed as it was quite obvious - poking out the back end as it were. As we know now, another part of the sliver kind of smashed into the bone and embedded itself, and that is what I have just learned needs to come out. I will have finger surgery Thursday to get all of that remaining aircraft grade Sitka Spruce removed once and for all. It should only delay me by maybe another week. I had hoped to get some preparatory work done in the my work shop over the weekend, but my finger was giving me some troubles, but the doc says I should be fine a week after surgery. I may be able to do some light work, once the tools start arriving, so it should all work out ok. I live on Merritt Island, FL, and work in Melbourne, FL, BTW. I am an electrical engineer specializing in switching power supplies and analog design. I recently became a member of the local EAA chapter, but still am trying to get to

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