RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-bf
October 24, 2013 - June 24, 2014
Filter Area
Install the LARGEST surface area size, filter that will fit. It will
filter better with much less chance of clogging AND it will even increase
the fuel capacity of your plane ;-)
Now, where to get such a filter?
On the RV6 that I fly, I installed a clear plastic Automotive Fuel Filter,
on each wing tank. Look for a LARGE filter that advertises the working
fuel pressure [WP or SBWP]. Because of this planes fuel line location I
can see the filters while flying the plane. It is my first line of defense
for fuel contamination.
After the filters there is a Boost Pump then the Gascolator (Personally I
do not like Gascolators as they are difficult to service both at pre-flight
and safety inspection. And, I have never seen any contamination collected
in them. A good thing, but if the inline filters work and the boost pump
filter works... More is not always better; then comes the mechanical fuel
pump.
Here in the States the cost of these filters is around: $3 to $5 each (USD).
As a side note: I have seen some very large fuel filters that look like
they could store a liter. They are metal bodied and cost about $8 to $15
USD. Two of them would increase your planes fuel capacity and time.
*Barry*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers.
You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to
identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of
saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Barry, thanks for your comments. My setup is as follows (a/c is a
Kitfox):
8mm (5/16=94) ID hoses going from:
Wing tanks
=E8 header tank (located behind the seat)
=E8 Gascolator (ACS)
=E8 Electrical fuel pump (no inbuilt filter; there is a line that
bypasses the
fuel pump and has a one-way valve ' just in case the fuel pump gets
blocked)
=E8 Mechanical Fuel pump
=E8 Engine and return line to Gascolator
I understand your comments about 30 vs 15 microns, however=85 I=92m
thinking
that if the Rotax installation manual says 30 and then 15 there must be
a
reason=85 so I=92d rather follow their instructions exactly. So this
means I=92m
thinking of putting the 15 micron fuel filter between the Mechanical
Fuel
Pump and the Engine
Summarizing what you have said, you recommend:
- Able to withstand at least twice the max fuel pressure in the
lines
- With a large surface area
My question is: what fuel filters do people on this list use/recommend?
Some brand names and/or a photo or two would be much appreciated!
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FLYaDIVE
Sent: Thursday, 24 October, 2013 16:25
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: RE: fuel filter
Hello Sacha:
The Pressurized Vs Unpressurized locations is dependent on the
installation
set-up you have. Basically the Unpressurized side is coming from the
fuel
tank and the Pressurized is everything after the Fuel Pump. Do you have
a
Electric Boost Pump installed? That is usually installed 'upstream' -
Before the mechanical fuel pump so - - The unpressurized is now BEFORE
the
electric boost pump, which may have its own built in filter (Faucet).
I really do not see any reason why there should be two different micron
size
filters. There are three requirements:
1 - What ever filter you chose it MUST be able to handle TWICE the
maximum
fuel pressure.
2 - The micron size should be small enough to catch the smallest size
particle that could cause a problem. Since there is a
suggestion/requirement to use a 15 micron filter, I would use that size
in
both locations. Why pass on a dirt particle from one filter and part of
a
system further down and maybe into a difficult to reach part of the
system.
3 - Fuel flow is dependent on a few factors:
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Line Size - Both Diameter and Length
Filter Area
Install the LARGEST surface area size, filter that will fit. It will
filter
better with much less chance of clogging AND it will even increase the
fuel
capacity of your plane ;-)
Now, where to get such a filter?
On the RV6 that I fly, I installed a clear plastic Automotive Fuel
Filter,
on each wing tank. Look for a LARGE filter that advertises the working
fuel
pressure [WP or SBWP]. Because of this planes fuel line location I can
see
the filters while flying the plane. It is my first line of defense for
fuel
contamination.
After the filters there is a Boost Pump then the Gascolator (Personally
I do
not like Gascolators as they are difficult to service both at pre-flight
and
safety inspection. And, I have never seen any contamination collected
in
them. A good thing, but if the inline filters work and the boost pump
filter
works... More is not always better; then comes the mechanical fuel
pump.
Here in the States the cost of these filters is around: $3 to $5 each
(USD).
As a side note: I have seen some very large fuel filters that look like
they could store a liter. They are metal bodied and cost about $8 to
$15
USD. Two of them would increase your planes fuel capacity and time.
*Barry*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers.
You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to
identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way
of
saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Hi.
Just read your post.
I have a Rotax 914, many years ago, entry in log book states.
Fuel Filters Removed and Gasalator Fitted,
Have had no trouble with Gasolator, but read many times engine failure
filter blocked.
regards.
Alan
Hi Alan,
For some reason I never got your reply - I just happened to see it today as
I was browsing the website. So sorry for not replying earlier.
I went back and tried to find the source for the 30 and 15 micron thing I
mentioned in the first post. This is very strange: I couldn't find anything
of the kind in the installation manual. I'm beginning to think I dreamed it
all up in the first place now.
The only filter I have is a Gascolator, so I guess my installation is fine
after all. Anyway, thanks to you and to Barry for your replies. and sorry
for wasting your time and for putting incorrect information out there.
For the record, the copy of the installation manual that I have (Ed.2/Rev.0
Aug 2012) says:
Coarse filter: On fuel tank as per certification (whatever that means)
Fine filter: In the feedline from the tanks to the pumps, an additional fine
filter with mesh size 0.1mm (so 100 microns not 30 or 15.) has to be
provided. The filter has to be controllable for service. A combination of
filter/water-trap (gascolator) is recommended.
Sacha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
That's OK Sacha.
Sometimes I think the more junk you put between the tank and the engine you are
upping your odds of trouble, my engine has done about 450 hours without any fuel
problems, I always refill using a filter at the tank cap.
However Andair do some nice fuel line components,
Just one thing of interest, when putting the rubber hose on any fuel line component,
always use a rubber lubricant, as you may just dislodge a small piece of
rubber that may end up blocking the carb jet, then EFATO.
So make sure all is clean.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411701#411701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com> |
>EFATO
Everything F=99d After That Occurs???
Michael
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 1:39 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: fuel filter
That's OK Sacha.
Sometimes I think the more junk you put between the tank and the engine
you are upping your odds of trouble, my engine has done about 450 hours
without any fuel problems, I always refill using a filter at the tank
cap.
However Andair do some nice fuel line components,
Just one thing of interest, when putting the rubber hose on any fuel
line component, always use a rubber lubricant, as you may just dislodge
a small piece of rubber that may end up blocking the carb jet, then
EFATO.
So make sure all is clean.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411701#411701
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Alan for the tips. I'm all for keeping it simple: no filters or valves in
the tanks, they are both directly connected to the header tank. One central
fuel shutoff valve between the header tank and the fuel pumps.
One thing I did do the other day is clean out the fuel tanks (they're about 10
years old). It was quite a simple thing to do: stuck a 2m piece of garden hose
in the tank with a hole two thirds the way down where I inserted the compressed
air pistol pointed towards the outside. The Venturi effect sucked out all
the petrol/gasoline but also quite a bit of muck... Looked like small bits of
reddish plastic but I was told its normal fuel residue that builds up over the
years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During |
November!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
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Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Network Issues At Matronics Last Few Days... |
Dear Listers,
Starting sometime on Friday November 1st, my Internet Service Provider (ISP) began "upgrading" their Domain Name Servers (DNS). DNS servers allow the resolution of computer names such as "www.matronics.com" to real addresses such as 64.81.74.3. This also impacts email delivery as well, since there is another layer of resolution that applies to email names.
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Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make |
A Contribution Today!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94551-0347
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email Disruption Fixed... |
Dear Listers,
Starting around midnight this morning 11/11/13, the Matronics Barracuda spam filter
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A List Contribution Today; Some Nice Comments... |
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-------------------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists --------------------
I wondered off for a few years & am coming back. I firmly
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Thank you for another year of service.
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Been a "member" for years - this has been a fantastic
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Thanks for the many years of support to RV builders.
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Fine service.
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-------------------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists --------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published |
in December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
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Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Behind By 25% - Please Contribute Today! |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year
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USA
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on |
| From: | Damien Graham <dgraham7(at)TWCNY.RR.COM> |
There is a company from Norway advertising on Barnstormers that they have a bolt
on kit to add fuel injection to the Rotax 912UL or 912ULS. Any opinions on this?
Roger, have you heard of this? Thanks.
Regards,
Damien
N48TK
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Damien,
I have heard of a company here in the US, but not overseas. I know nothing about
the after market fuel injection systems.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413461#413461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on |
Roger
Air performance in Spartenburg SC does>>>I have one...
John McMahon
Gallatin,Tn
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Lee
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:17 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Hi Damien,
I have heard of a company here in the US, but not overseas. I know nothing
about the after market fuel injection systems.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413461#413461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
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think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith <ch701builder(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on |
Hey John,
Tell us more about it. Is it easy to install? Performance? Economy increase
? Was your original engine a 912 or 912S
-----Original Message-----
From: "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: =8E11/=8E19/=8E2013 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Roger
Air performance in Spartenburg SC does>>>I have one...
John McMahon
Gallatin,Tn
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Lee
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:17 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Hi Damien,
I have heard of a company here in the US, but not overseas. I know nothing
about the after market fuel injection systems.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413461#413461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on |
OK I will try to help you as much as possible..
The web page to his site http://airflowperformance.com/
The owner is Don Rivera His number is 864-576-4512
he is located on the Spartanburg,SC airport....
He has been making fuel injecting systems for 25+ years or so...
I have built 2 Vans aircraft and knew of him for some time
he has a fantastic reputation with us builders..
I let my medical run out as I have a condition (diabetes+74 yrs old) so
I purchased a Just Aircraft Kit (Highlander) with a new 912 Rotax eng
while at the factory at that time there was a lot of talk about fuel inj
systems and Dons name came up!!!!
There are 5 planes with his systems working perfect.....
The reason I did this is
1=smother running at all alt..
2=no more sync issue..
3=more horsepower( about 8 to 10 HP)
4=no computer systems in use!!!All bendix type eng that has
proved...(bolt on kit)
The Negative issues are
1=more money to spent
2=if you install on new eng,it voids warrantee...
Hope this helps,I can send some pic if needed....
John McMahon
From: Keith
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Hey John,
Tell us more about it. Is it easy to install? Performance? Economy
increase? Was your original engine a 912 or 912S
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: John McMahon
Sent: =8E11/=8E19/=8E2013 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Roger
Air performance in Spartenburg SC does>>>I have one...
John McMahon
Gallatin,Tn
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Lee
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:17 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Fuel Injection Bolt on
Hi Damien,
I have heard of a company here in the US, but not overseas. I know
nothing
about the after market fuel injection systems.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413461#413461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution Today... |
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser and the List of Contributors
is quickly approching. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported
and all of the operational costs are provided for by your Contributions during
this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a big difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thinking about buying a Firefly? |
| From: | "Firefly2013" <jschepis(at)comcast.net> |
I was wondering if a firefly with a 447 engine plus parachute and 5 gallons of
fuel will fly a pilot that is around 225lbs. I would be taking off at a elevation
of around 80ft, airport in New Jersey.
Also which prop would be best for me, a 2 blade wood prop or a 3 blade powerfin?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413940#413940
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thinking about buying a Firefly? |
| From: | Vance Simons <vancesimons(at)gmail.com> |
The firefly will haul up aloft. You might find the plane a bit of a little
tight fit for a guy your size but height seems a bigger issue than weight.
I am 210 5'10 and was comfortable in the firefly I sat in.
Personally I perfer a three blade over a two blade anyday. They say a two
blade will give you better climb performance. I had a three blade GSC prop
on a Phantom and switched to a two blade to achieve better climb
performance. I was sorely disappointed. Although it did climb better
vibration was more apparent and the climb performance was not worth what i
gave up in smoother operation. I went back to the three blade. I would
recommend a three blade Warp Drive over the Powerfin if you can find one.
Its the best prop I've ever ran. I have a Powerfin on a Phantom now and
there is blade movement inside the hub with everything tourqued down to
specs. I'm going to replace it with a Warp Drive once I run this engine out.
On Nov 24, 2013 11:55 AM, "Firefly2013" wrote:
> jschepis(at)comcast.net>
>
> I was wondering if a firefly with a 447 engine plus parachute and 5
> gallons of fuel will fly a pilot that is around 225lbs. I would be taking
> off at a elevation of around 80ft, airport in New Jersey.
>
> Also which prop would be best for me, a 2 blade wood prop or a 3 blade
> powerfin?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413940#413940
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thinking about buying a Firefly? |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Vance:
If you consider what you, are expected from a 3 blade Vs 2 blade... Then
YES - You will be disappointed.
The advantage of a 3 blade are:
Lower Tip Speed at the same RPM
Less noise
Better Vertical Speed (VSI)
More Ground clearance
Easier to do static prop balance.
Easier to do dynamic prop balancing
The advantages of a 2 blade are:
Higher IAS
Disadvantages of a 3 Blade:
Lower IAS.
A bit scary to Hand Prop.
In the winter you collect (more) snow & ice in the spinner.
When you ding a prop you usually ding 2 or more blades of the prop.
Doing R&R of the cowling is a bit more tricky.
Even though your logic was not correct the main thing is you are happy with
the prop you chosen.
*Barry*
*=93Chop=92d Liver=94*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers.
You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to
identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of
saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Vance Simons wrote
:
> The firefly will haul up aloft. You might find the plane a bit of a littl
e
> tight fit for a guy your size but height seems a bigger issue than weight
.
> I am 210 5'10 and was comfortable in the firefly I sat in.
>
> Personally I perfer a three blade over a two blade anyday. They say a two
> blade will give you better climb performance. I had a three blade GSC pro
p
> on a Phantom and switched to a two blade to achieve better climb
> performance. I was sorely disappointed. Although it did climb better
> vibration was more apparent and the climb performance was not worth what
i
> gave up in smoother operation. I went back to the three blade. I would
> recommend a three blade Warp Drive over the Powerfin if you can find one.
> Its the best prop I've ever ran. I have a Powerfin on a Phantom now and
> there is blade movement inside the hub with everything tourqued down to
> specs. I'm going to replace it with a Warp Drive once I run this engine o
ut.
> On Nov 24, 2013 11:55 AM, "Firefly2013" wrote:
>
>> jschepis(at)comcast.net>
>>
>> I was wondering if a firefly with a 447 engine plus parachute and 5
>> gallons of fuel will fly a pilot that is around 225lbs. I would be takin
g
>> off at a elevation of around 80ft, airport in New Jersey.
>>
>> Also which prop would be best for me, a 2 blade wood prop or a 3 blade
>> powerfin?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413940#413940
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>
===========
m>
ldersbooks.com>
.com>
com>
om/contribution>
===========
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
>From the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thinking about buying a Firefly? |
| From: | "Firefly2013" <jschepis(at)comcast.net> |
[quote="rvsimons"]The firefly will haul up aloft. You might find the plane a bit
of a little tight fit for a guy your size but height seems a bigger issue than
weight. I am 210 5'10 and was comfortable in the firefly I sat in.
I was wondering if a firefly with a 447 engine plus parachute and 5 gallons of
fuel will fly a pilot that is around 225lbs. I would be taking off at a elevation
of around 80ft, airport in New Jersey.
Also which prop would be best for me, a 2 blade wood prop or a 3 blade powerfin?
Thanks Rvsimons, I'm 5' 10" so I guess it would be ok for me. I was looking to
buy a firefly I saw forsale, but I think I am going to wait and get sport pilot
licence as that would give me more choices. I want to fly something with a
4 stroke, that I can trailer to avoid paying hanger fee's in case I don't have
time for flying allot, I don't want to be stuck paying for things I'm not using.
The phantom is the plane that I would really want, they look like a well constructed
ultralight. I believe I read you have to inspect those wire's good to make
sure the tangs or whatever they are called do not become elongated. How do
you like the Phantom? It would be my first choice except for the need for a hanger.
I think a firestar with a rotax 912 or someother 4 stroke would work for me because
I could keep it trialered in my yard and hook it up when I want to go flying?
And hopefully sell it if I get bored with it.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414052#414052
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thinking about buying a Firefly? |
| From: | "Firefly2013" <jschepis(at)comcast.net> |
THe "R" on New Jersey Licence plates is showing support the Rutgers University
Scarlet Knights.
http://www.alumni.rutgers.edu/s/896/2col.aspx?sid=896&pgid=349
https://www.govtrack.us/states/nj/bills/2012-2013/s753
Thanks for the info
[quote="BARRY CHECK 6"]Vance:
If you consider what you, are expected from a 3 blade Vs 2 blade... Then
YES - You will be disappointed.
The advantage of a 3 blade are:
Lower Tip Speed at the same RPM
Less noise
Better Vertical Speed (VSI)
More Ground clearance
Easier to do static prop balance.
Easier to do dynamic prop balancing
The advantages of a 2 blade are:
Higher IAS
Disadvantages of a 3 Blade:
Lower IAS.
A bit scary to Hand Prop.
In the winter you collect (more) snow & ice in the spinner.
When you ding a prop you usually ding 2 or more blades of the prop.
Doing R&R of the cowling is a bit more tricky.
Even though your logic was not correct the main thing is you are happy with
the prop you chosen.
*Barry*
*Chopd Liver*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers.
You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to
identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of
saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Vance Simons wrote:
> The firefly will haul up aloft. You might find the plane a bit of a little
> tight fit for a guy your size but height seems a bigger issue than weight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414054#414054
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Of Pencils & Airplanes [Repost From AeroElectric-List]... |
[Dear Listers, last week, Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric fame, posted a very
nice message discussing the Lists and Forums at Matronics. It is a very insightful
piece and I asked Bob if I could forward it to the rest of the Lists for
the other members to enjoy and contemplate as well. He gladly agreed, and so
below I have included the text from that message. Enjoy. -Matt Dralle, Matronics
Email List and Forum Administrator]
"As most of you know, Matt's ISP was fiddling with some crucial
details for the exchange of data on the 'net a few weeks ago.
The Lists, Matt's business site, and AeroElectric.com got really
flakey. . . I was 'unhooked' from the List and all of three of
my e-mail services for several days. Out of business and out
of touch.
After two days, I was beginning to worry. I had no idea as
to root cause nor was there a time table for resolution . . .
I began to mull over plan-B options. Of course, plan-B
would have entailed seeking a new home for aeroelectric.com and
ancillary services. NOT a quick, inexpensive or happy thing to
contemplate.
The time talents and resources that go into fabrication and
maintenance of some of the 'simplest' features of our lives often
go unnoticed . . . not because they're unappreciated . . . but simply
because we're unaware of their significance.
I will invite you all to read an essay by one Leonard Read written
in 1958 titled "I pencil". See:
http://tinyurl.com/me3q3hj
It's a fascinating and well crafted peek into a society of
unacquainted, self-interested individuals who exploited
uncountable windows of opportunity for what has
been called "spontaneous order" in the manufacture and sales
of the simple wood pencil. The point of citing Mr. Read's
essay is to examine two features of the human experience that
contribute to the success of this List and our various interests
in airplanes.
The first point I'd like to make is that we cannot know
the millions of individuals who contributed to the materials
and infrastructure that make this List possible. We sit at the
top of a pyramid of work-product derived from the time,
talents and resources of millions of people who we'll never
know.
Another feature I'd like to emphasis is our ignorance
of the criticality for any single component for a host
of materials and components for the manufacture and
sales of a simple pencil or an affordable airplane. Suppose
any one of the materials or processes described in Read's
essay were simply unavailable. How would that impact
the price of a pencil? Would the pencil even continue to
exist at it's new price? The really big question is, "How
might some seemingly small loss ripple throughout the
economy of our existence?"
The time, talent and resources that support infrastructure
for this List, my website, Matt's website, and our e-mails
cannot be accurately known. That infrastructure stands
on an exceedingly complex array of activities that arose
from the ingenuity and spontaneous organization of free-
market enterprises. But from our perch at the top of
this pyramid we need only look down a few layers and see that
this resource upon which we depend is vulnerable. There are
risks we all assume . . . Matt could get t-boned in an
intersection tomorrow. Lightning could strike the pole behind
his facility and do catastrophic damage to the hardware.
Yours truly could take a deer through the windshield on
his way to Wichita some morning.
Other risks are less catastrophic. They include things
like amateurish behaviors by maintainers of the Internet
highway's potholes. Perhaps some material critical to
the manufacture of terabyte hard drives dries up. Or
maybe the cost of keeping the lights on and the bytes
herded become more than Matt can justify given his personal
needs for existence.
Several times a year I get an opportunity to
plant new seeds of thought in the minds of fellow citizens.
One of my favorites is to be standing in a long line
at Panera's waiting to purchase a bagel and coffee and
hear somebody in line complaining about the
wait. I suggest to them that to wait in line for a
much desired product is a GOOD thing. Not having
to wait is a BAD thing if there is not enough business
to encourage them to be open tomorrow.
It goes without saying that few, if any of us, possess the
talents, resources or motivation to step up and do what
Matt does. At last count, there were about 1600 individuals
who subscribe to this List [Aeroelectric-List]. . .
certainly many more make up the population of subscribers
to all of the Lists on Matronics.
A few years back, Matt was besieged by legal trials
and tribulations over the naming of his products . . .
seems somebody claimed ownership of the words 'scan'
and/or 'scanner' . . . We here on the AeroElectric-List
perceived a risk to Matt's operations and came up with
several thousands of dollars to contribute to his defense
fund. We need make no greater 'investment' in Matt's
operations now than it takes to stand in a line for
a Quarter-Pounder Combo . . . or a fist full of pencils.
You and I can have no more positive influence over the
manufacture of pencils and hard drives than to continue
to purchase such things and encourage those with the
time, talent and resources to continue doing what they
do best.
Let's contribute to the comfortable maintenance of this
service which is probably more valuable than we know.
Just a little bit from thousands of us on the Matronics
Lists can make a big difference.
Bob . . ."
Please take a minute to make your Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Joint Release Announcement from TSFlightlines and Aircraft |
Specialty
| From: | Aircraft Specialty <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com> |
Tom of www.tsflightlines.com and Steve of www.aircraftspecialty.com are
extremely excited to announce a joint collaboration project we have been
working on for several months.
Today we are announcing that we have developed a complete RV-12 hose
retrofit kit.
Please click here for the press
release.<http://aircraftspecialty.com/PDF%20Documents/Rotax%20912%20press%20release.pdf>
There is more information located on our websites at www.tsflightlines.comand
www.aircraftspecialty.com
Please feel free to contact Tom or I with any questions that you may have.
We are very excited about this new kit and the ability to offer Rotax
owners a better alternative for fuel hose replacements.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming |
Soon!
Dear Listers,
There's just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've
been putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to
choose from this year. I personally want at least four of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again;
the big 50, in fact! But it also means that it's that last official day
of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking
up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you to all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Restart the engine after a flight |
Hi There All,
I have a 912ULS mounted on an Europa XS with almost 500 hours which runs
perfectly=85 when it runs:
- Cold start is easy and ok even in cold weather (assuming
battery
is correctly charged and can drive the engine to 600 rpm)
- Restart after a 30 minutes stop following a flight is
difficult
with bubbles visible via the overflow tube creating irregular run and
smell
of gasoline. After few (long) seconds it comes back to normal and shows
no
other symptoms.
Any advice?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn=92A=E9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jonathan(at)Entry.co.za" <jonathan(at)entry.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
Hi Max,
Do you have a Return to tank?
I have had the same problem for 500+hrs. I do NOT have a return to tank.
I found it to be a build up of pressure in the fuel line, under the cowl
of my Zenith CH601XLb. (All the heat seems to come out of the engine.)
The fuel pump has a check valve, and hence the fuel will not return on
it's own.
All I do now is switch off the fuel, when taxiing to the hangar, and
when I stop I open the oil filler cowl flap, to let out the hot air. The
lack of fuel in the lines, (used up in the taxi) and the little bit of
extra cooling seems to have helped a lot with this rich start problem.
I also find that if I let it stand for an hour, the problem also goes
away.
Hope this helps
Jonathan
----- Original Message -----
From: Max Cointe (Free)
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 4:25 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Restart the engine after a flight
Hi There All,
I have a 912ULS mounted on an Europa XS with almost 500 hours which
runs perfectly. when it runs:
- Cold start is easy and ok even in cold weather (assuming
battery is correctly charged and can drive the engine to 600 rpm)
- Restart after a 30 minutes stop following a flight is
difficult with bubbles visible via the overflow tube creating irregular
run and smell of gasoline. After few (long) seconds it comes back to
normal and shows no other symptoms.
Any advice?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn'A=E9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
| From: | Pete Christensen <pchristensen10(at)austin.rr.com> |
Sounds like flooding. I turn off my fuel valve and let it run awhile before
shutting down. Seems to take care of that problem.
Pete
Leander, Tx
On Dec 9, 2013, at 8:25 AM, "Max Cointe (Free)" wrote:
> Hi There All,
>
> I have a 912ULS mounted on an Europa XS with almost 500 hours which runs p
erfectly when it runs:
> - Cold start is easy and ok even in cold weather (assuming batter
y is correctly charged and can drive the engine to 600 rpm)
> - Restart after a 30 minutes stop following a flight is difficult
with bubbles visible via the overflow tube creating irregular run and smell
of gasoline. After few (long) seconds it comes back to normal and shows no o
ther symptoms.
> Any advice?
>
> Max Cointe
> mcointe(at)free.fr
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
>
> F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vernon Mitchell" <vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
I had the same problem. Balanced the carbs, and all was well.
Vernon.
From: Pete Christensen
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Restart the engine after a flight
Sounds like flooding. I turn off my fuel valve and let it run awhile
before shutting down. Seems to take care of that problem.
Pete
Leander, Tx
On Dec 9, 2013, at 8:25 AM, "Max Cointe (Free)" wrote:
Hi There All,
I have a 912ULS mounted on an Europa XS with almost 500 hours which
runs perfectly when it runs:
- Cold start is easy
and ok even in cold weather (assuming battery is correctly charged and
can drive the engine to 600 rpm)
- Restart after a 30
minutes stop following a flight is difficult with bubbles visible via
the overflow tube creating irregular run and smell of gasoline. After
few (long) seconds it comes back to normal and shows no other symptoms.
Any advice?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
=========
ctric.com
>www.buildersbooks.com
uilthelp.com
otstore.com
matronics.com/contribution
=========
st">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
=========
cs.com
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh McKay" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
Don=92t know your fuel piping situation, but it clearly sounds like you
are flooding the engine. If you have an electric fuel pump in line with
the mechanical pump that is on the engine turn the electric pump off and
try starting the engine using the Rotax start procedure for a hot or
warm engine. Don=92t use the cold engine start procedure.
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E.
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
http://www.wwegeo.com
From: Vernon Mitchell
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Restart the engine after a flight
I had the same problem. Balanced the carbs, and all was well.
Vernon.
From: Pete Christensen
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Restart the engine after a flight
Sounds like flooding. I turn off my fuel valve and let it run awhile
before shutting down. Seems to take care of that problem.
Pete
Leander, Tx
On Dec 9, 2013, at 8:25 AM, "Max Cointe (Free)" wrote:
Hi There All,
I have a 912ULS mounted on an Europa XS with almost 500 hours which
runs perfectly when it runs:
- Cold start is easy
and ok even in cold weather (assuming battery is correctly charged and
can drive the engine to 600 rpm)
- Restart after a 30
minutes stop following a flight is difficult with bubbles visible via
the overflow tube creating irregular run and smell of gasoline. After
few (long) seconds it comes back to normal and shows no other symptoms.
Any advice?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
=========
ctric.com
>www.buildersbooks.com
uilthelp.com
otstore.com
matronics.com/contribution
=========
st">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
=========
cs.com
=========
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.mypilotstore.com">www.mypilotstore.com
href="http://www.mrrace.com">www.mrrace.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Max,
As someone ask, do you have an electric pump? Are you starting with just a single
pump? Are you using the choke on the second start? What is the idle set for
(after it warms)? Do you apply any throttle during the start? When was the last
time you did a carb sync? What are your plugs gapped at?
These all play an important part and if you can fill in these questions I would
bet we can help.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415283#415283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
Hi Roger, many thanks to you and to everyone who answered.
I have a fuel tank return and an electric fuel pump. After warm the idle set
is 1600 rpm. I do use the hot start procedure with no shoke (at least
usually. For this one I'm not really sure). The carb sync should be correct
as the engine runs with no vibe whatever is the rpm. The sparkplugs have 15
hours and standard gap.
All opinions converge to a flood which could have been induced by using a
(not awared) wrong procedure and/or some vapor lock, which I already
experimented but at higher weather temp.
I will anyhow retain the process to close the fuel valve before turning of
the engine
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Roger
Lee
Envoy: mardi 10 dcembre 2013 05:03
: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Restart the engine after a flight
-->
Hi Max,
As someone ask, do you have an electric pump? Are you starting with just a
single pump? Are you using the choke on the second start? What is the idle
set for (after it warms)? Do you apply any throttle during the start? When
was the last time you did a carb sync? What are your plugs gapped at?
These all play an important part and if you can fill in these questions I
would bet we can help.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint.
Rated Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415283#415283
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Restart the engine after a flight |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Carb's can be out of sync quite a bit and many would never know. If they haven't
been synced within the last 100 hrs. they are over due.
Your idle for a ULS is too low and this will add to hard starts if the throttle
is left closed to that mark. This will add to excessive vibration to if you actually
idle that low. Either set the idle up to around 1700-1800 or at least
crack the throttle when starting. I don't know what standard gap is. I get them
in shop shop from .020 to .038. The proper gap should be between .023-.027.
During the winter either .023 cold climate or .025 for the southwest where winter
climates are a little milder. Narrow gaps for cold weather and wider gaps
for hot weather. There is a possibility of a little vapor lock. Are your fuel
hoses in fire sleeve? This will not only protect you, but help a little with
heat build up on the hose and vapor production. There is a slight possibility
that you need to adjust your float level in the bowls.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415309#415309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Roden <krazydoc33(at)gmail.com> |
I have a 912 ULS in a RV-12. It has run rich from day one. Another flyer on
the field had a similar problem and he raised both needles one notch,
leaner mixture, which cured his problem.
I decided to give that a try, as well as running rich, the EGT were around
1230. The left carb. needle was set at the second notch down and I moved
that to the third notch. The right carb. was already at the third notch! I
moved that one down to the fourth notch. I have not started it yet as today
was too cold and wanted to see if there were any comments first. It seems
odd that the two needles would be in different positions as this was an
engine directly from the factory. The plugs on both sides looked the same,
a fairly light coating of black soot that was easy to remove but below that
was black color on the ceramic that was very hard to remove. Fuel
consumption has not been high, right around 5 gals./hour.
Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Running rich |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Henry,
Your right that the factory needle clip position is the 3 notch down from the top.
Moving the clip to the bottom or fourth notch will richen it. Moving it up
to the 2nd from the top will lean it. I allows the needle to sit down further
into the main jet. Cold dry OAT's help lean your mixture. Don't take black dry
sooty plugs as being too rich if you have been idling. That is normal many times.
Once the engine is run up to let's say 4K rpm and run for a few minutes
that goes away. Pay more attention to EGT's and what plugs look like if you shut
down from higher rpms.
The leaner clip position from factory will be the 2nd notch from the top.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415378#415378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "egp8111" <egp8111(at)aol.com> |
I'm looking for a 80 hp 912. Please PM me if you know of anything along those
lines.
Thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415403#415403
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | early GTR EIS manual 912 |
| From: | "egp8111" <egp8111(at)aol.com> |
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for an early Grand Rapides EIS ? This one
has the two plug connection and is model EIS 3 adv-w/912. I have the operators
manual but cant find the wiring diagram. Grand Rapids does have anything for
this old of a model....
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415543#415543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2013 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2013 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors.
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection
up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I also want to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon for their generous support
through the supply of many great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent
products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
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And finally, I'm proud to present The 2013 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
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Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
I used a Carb Mate synchronizer once and found I was fumbling around a lot to get
the carbs balanced.
If, for examle, the LED light is offset to the right, do you loosen , or tighten
the cable feed to that right side carb? Or do either to the left side?
Instructions didn't provide any clues.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416293#416293
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
This is one of my dislikes about electronic devices. I still prefer gauges. You
can't diagnose with electronic devices. I have used them, but always gone back
to gauge. The easiest way to check and see is to move a carb throttle arm and
watch the indicator. If you do it to both one at a time then you can watch the
indicator move to where you want it and then know how far and which carb to
adjust. I think gauges are faster.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416318#416318
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Hi John,
I use a balancing tool similar to the Carb Mate to do my synchronizing.
First, only adjust one side, never both sides. All you are trying to do is get
one side to match the other. If you try to adjust both sides youll be chasing
it all day long.
Pick a side to adjust and make a small adjustment on the ferrule, really doesnt
matter which way, all you want to see is which way the Carb Mate changes. If
it improves, that's the way you want to adjust to balance. If the Carb Mate
goes the wrong way, you want to adjust the ferrule in the other direction. Then
continue to make adjustments till you get the Carb Mate centered at highest
resolution.
Its really quite easy once you get the hang of it.
Rotax-Owner.com has a good video review of the Carb Mate which includes a demonstration
on its use. You should check it out. If you are a member of Rotax-Owner.com
there are other excellent, detailed, videos available on carb balancing
the 912/914. If you arent a member of Rotax-Owner.com I highly recommend joining
to gain access to all their other videos and to their informational e-mailing.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Dec 28, 2013, at 3:40 PM, JohnF wrote:
I used a Carb Mate synchronizer once and found I was fumbling around a lot to get
the carbs balanced.
If, for examle, the LED light is offset to the right, do you loosen , or tighten
the cable feed to that right side carb? Or do either to the left side?
Instructions didn't provide any clues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Thank you, Bob, for your iinformation. I appreciate it. I am in an RV-12
with 190 hours on it now...many minor items have come up but so far nothing
major which I hope continues because if you need to get at the starter or
other major things the entire engine would have to be pulled...a real
pain...the RV-12 with the Rotax 912uls is pretty crowded.
Again, thank you
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Borger" <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: CarbMate
Hi John,
I use a balancing tool similar to the Carb Mate to do my synchronizing.
First, only adjust one side, never both sides. All you are trying to do is
get one side to match the other. If you try to adjust both sides youll be
chasing it all day long.
Pick a side to adjust and make a small adjustment on the ferrule, really
doesnt matter which way, all you want to see is which way the Carb Mate
changes. If it improves, that's the way you want to adjust to balance. If
the Carb Mate goes the wrong way, you want to adjust the ferrule in the
other direction. Then continue to make adjustments till you get the Carb
Mate centered at highest resolution.
Its really quite easy once you get the hang of it.
Rotax-Owner.com has a good video review of the Carb Mate which includes a
demonstration on its use. You should check it out. If you are a member of
Rotax-Owner.com there are other excellent, detailed, videos available on
carb balancing the 912/914. If you arent a member of Rotax-Owner.com I
highly recommend joining to gain access to all their other videos and to
their informational e-mailing.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Dec 28, 2013, at 3:40 PM, JohnF wrote:
I used a Carb Mate synchronizer once and found I was fumbling around a lot
to get the carbs balanced.
If, for examle, the LED light is offset to the right, do you loosen , or
tighten the cable feed to that right side carb? Or do either to the left
side?
Instructions didn't provide any clues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
The problem with doing it with a blind adjustment to just make them match is if
you screw one out that increases one carb's rpm then it usually will be too far
out to set the idle. As a general rule you want to adjust the carb that is
getting a little more fuel/air and pull that cable back to retard it some. Then
when you go to idle you will still have adjustment.
The gauges will tell you exactly which carb to adjust and by how much and how far
off they are. The gauge will tell you before you spend a lot of time trying
to make an adjustment if the cable lengths are close enough or too far apart
to make an adjustment to get them synced and they will tell you if the idle circuit
is clogged. The carbmate won't tell you any of that and you may spend a
1-3 hours working on it when using a set of gauge would have told you those things
in seconds to a couple of minutes.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416344#416344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Thank you, Roger. I think before my next condition inspection I want to get
gauges...I noticed you recommend liquid-filled gauges that dampen the
movement, which makes sense.
Would you be kind enough to recommend model/brand of gauges you use.
I also plan to purchase a dynamic prop balancer to use during the condtion
inspection, so before balancing the prop it seems important to get the
carbs right. Right now I am debating between the Dyna Vibe and the ACES
unit...both seem like they would do the job, with the ACES a suggested
weight is provided, but otherwise they seem about the same. The ACES unit
uses the formula that I could do myself. They cost the same, so its a toss
up but the Dyna Vibe seems a tad easier to use.
Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:16 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: CarbMate
>
> The problem with doing it with a blind adjustment to just make them match
> is if you screw one out that increases one carb's rpm then it usually will
> be too far out to set the idle. As a general rule you want to adjust the
> carb that is getting a little more fuel/air and pull that cable back to
> retard it some. Then when you go to idle you will still have adjustment.
> The gauges will tell you exactly which carb to adjust and by how much and
> how far off they are. The gauge will tell you before you spend a lot of
> time trying to make an adjustment if the cable lengths are close enough or
> too far apart to make an adjustment to get them synced and they will tell
> you if the idle circuit is clogged. The carbmate won't tell you any of
> that and you may spend a 1-3 hours working on it when using a set of gauge
> would have told you those things in seconds to a couple of minutes.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416344#416344
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
No special brad. I don't buy top dollar, but don't buy cheap either. When you get
them just pull a vacuum on them at the same time and make sure they are reading
the same.
Put an in line needle valve in each vacuum line to pinch it down to dampen the
impulses even more. You can buy every thing you need except the gauges at Ace
Aviation (Ace Hardware). :)
here is a picture of a simple carb sync tool that works very well and doesn't cost
a lot.
I have ab Aces dynamic prop balancer. It is fairly pricey for a one time owner
unless you plan on doing a lot of planes. Wouldn't it be cheaper ($300) to just
pay someone a one time fee.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416392#416392
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_150_483.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Carb sync for beginners |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
PROCEDURES FOR MECHANICAL AND PNEUMATIC SYNCHRONIZATION OF THE 912 CARB'S:
This will get you through the basics and after you do a sync or two it will get
easier and you will get better. This is not an official document and is only
meant for your edification and will get you through a carb sync. Some experienced
people that do carb syncs on a 912s may vary some, but the basics ideas are
the same.
Mechanical Synch of the Carburetors Do this First
Bowden cables adjustment screws (cable housing adjuster) should be centered, but
not mandatory. By having the Bowden cable adjustments in the middle of their
adjustment range will give you a little more adjustment when you get to that
part of the procedure.
Adjust throttle cables so that both carb throttle arms move simultaneously to both
extremes (open and closed).
Ensure Idle Mixture Control Screw is properly set (on the bottom of each carb).
Screw them all the way in then back out 1 turns.
Reverse the throttle arm springs so they pull toward closed throttle just to facilitate
mechanical sync.
Unscrew the Idle Stop Screw. Make sure the throttle is closed in the cockpit. With
a .004 feeler gauge between the screw and the arm tighten the screw until
it just touches. There should be minimal friction on the feeler gauge.
Remove the feeler gauge and screw the Idle Stop Screw in 1 turn.
Return springs to original configuration (i.e., pulling the throttle arms toward
to the open position).
Connect the Pneumatic Synch Tool
It is imperative to have the engine up to the operating temperature. Remove one
end of the rubber crossover compensating tube between the two intake manifolds
or connect to the top of the intake manifolds or use the cross over tube rubber
hose pinch off method shown in Rotax owner videos. All these attachment methods
will work.
Hook up gauges or electronic sync tool. Secure one end of a gauge or electronic
device to the rubber end of the compensating tube and the other to the gauge
at the 90 degree fitting coming out of the intake manifold where the compensating
tube hose was removed. Secure both attachments with a hose clamps to prevent
leaks. Leaks will affect the results of your sync process. You can hook up
your sync tool at the small screw on top of the intake manifold, but then you
have to pinch off the rubber hose between the carbs on the cross over compensating
line. I find this is just more work and you need to make sure the rubber
hose on the compensating tubes are long enough (usually newer engines) and you
dont allow any leaks between the carbs. Many people have to cut the tube shorter
and make the rubber hose longer to pinch it if you have an older engine with
short rubber connecting tubes. I think it is easier and faster by just pulling
the hose off as originally described and it facilitates complete carb separation.
Make sure you have good brakes, use wheel chocks and or if you have not so good
brakes or no wheel chocks then tie your plane down and always have someone in
the cockpit. Never do this alone while running an engine and no one in the cockpit..
On Idle Synch
NOTE* Many people like to do the high rpm or off idle adjustment first and
then do the idle set.
I would do the high rpm sync first because it will affect the idle sync.
Note*
The gauge or carb with the lower vacuum number is getting more air/fuel and the
gauge or carb with the higher vacuum number is getting less air/fuel.
Bring the cockpit throttle lever to idle stop. Ideal idle RPM is approximately
1700-1800 rpm depending on your specific aircraft and needs. Adjust idle setting
to this value. The 912UL 80 HP can handle a little lower idle rpm over the
912ULS 100 HP due to compression ratio.
If the idle is high (say, 1900), adjust the carb with the lower vacuum number on
the gauge because that is the one getting more air/fuel. Retard the Idle Set
Screw until the vacuum numbers are the same. Example: If one gauge is at 15
of vacuum and one at 14 of vacuum retard the lower 14 until it drops to 15 to
equal the other carb which will now lower your idle rpm.
If idle is low (say, 1600), adjust the carb with the higher value, it is getting
less air/fuel. Advance the Idle Set Screw until the vacuum readings are the
same. Example: If one carb is at 15 and one at 14 turn the idle stop screw in
on the carb with 15 of vacuum to match the one with 14. This will raise the overall
idle rpm.
Needles should now match.
Off Idle or high rpm Synch
If while running the engine the gauge needles shake then you will need to install
or close down the inline needle valves until the gauge needles stop shaking
and pulsating. Now the needles will likely show different vacuum readings. Do
this sync before the idle sync because this sync usually will affect your idle
sync set point.
Run engine at approximately 3500 RPM. Do the Off Idle synchronizations at this
rpm. I prefer 3500 rpm to start since that is closer to where you run the engine.
You may find that setting the balance at lower rpms doesnt stay very accurate
and that as you move up in rpm to 4000-4500 rpm they are out of sync again.
Set them at the higher rpm or at least double check the higher rpm when you
think you are done. There is a good chance they wont be in sync if you used a
low (
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416396#416396
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_150_818.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CarbMateCarbMate |
John,
I too use a similar unit for carb syncing. It's for a twin motorcycle
actually. But on my older Kitfox I have a bell crank throttle system and have a
device called a "throttle link" attached to the back of one of the
throttle cables. It has a knob allowing me to adjust the throttle cable length
in
very small increments. I can thus sync the carbs without even getting out
of the aircraft. I just look at the gauge on the carb sync instrument I have
attached to the carbs, turn the knob on the throttle link, and I am synced
in about 30 seconds !. This is really a neat item ! Go to Highwing LLC if
you are curious. This will most likely not work on your aircraft but it is
a great idea that has been working for years for me. Lowell has had some
great ideas that he has developed .
Dick Maddux
Kitfox 4, 912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Jim <jimgraham42(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 5 Year Replacement of Hoses etc |
There's a periodic (5 year interval) hose and rubber parts replacement requirement
for the 912ULS... Can anyone on the list provide your experience regarding
the likely cost of that maintenance... i.e., typical # of hours to accomplish
in a Rotax shop, and rough cost of the component parts (using authorized Rotax
parts)?
Thanks,
Jim Graham
NOVA Light Flight--KHWY
Tecnam Sierra N25HV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 5 Year Replacement of Hoses etc |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Jim,
I do about 20 hose changes a year. Your parts cost will be around $1000-$1200 for
parts if you do it right. Depending on the shop and the plane type the total
could cost with labor could cost any where from $2000-$4000. You can buy some
things locally and will be the same as what you will buy from a Rotax distributor
because they don't use Rotax parts for some things. Rotax doesn't supply
everything. Time depends on the plane. it could be anywhere from a 1-2 days.
All fuel and oil lines should be in fire sleeve. You should not use cheap serrated
worm drive clamps like you use on a garden hose for fuel hoses. Use either
Oetiker clamps or fuel injection clamps. These are both types of good sealing
band clamps. The fire sleeve should have Band-It clamps, but an Oetiker band
clamp will work. Don't use crap parts. Blow out each fuel line with air before
the install. Throwing this together with parts from an hardware store and baling
wire isn't the right way. It's your hide and your passengers hide that are
on the line. If you do things the wrong way and try to cut too many corners
and cause engine damage or an off field landing may cost you really big bucks
for cutting those corners.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416585#416585
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 5 Year Replacement of Hoses etc |
| From: | "frank3" <frank3phyl(at)comcast.net> |
Roger
What style(s) of Oetiker clamps do you use and on which hoses?
Thanks
--------
Frank McDonald
Kitfox S7
912S, Sensenich Composite 3 Blade
Acworth, GA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416596#416596
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 5 Year Replacement of Hoses etc |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Oetiker one ear clamps.
Here is an article that will help.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=416600#416600
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/the_task_at_hand_160.docx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Jim <jimgraham42(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 5 Year Replacement of Hoses etc |
Roger, thanks for your cost summary, plus the good quality reminders. Maintenance-wise
and quality-wise, we have always been committed not to cut corners, so
this periodic hose replacement will be a costly implementation of that principle--but
that's the reason we're planning for it now, just a bit ahead of time--to
be sure we can cover the costs when we have them. Appreciate your assistance.
Jim Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Rotax service info releases |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
FYI,
Here is new service info for the new software version for BUDS for the IS engine.
This one will only affect about 10-12 people in the US.
http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si-912i-003r2.pdf
Here is new service info for the Teflon fuel lines that feed the carbs if you have
them. No longer on the 5 year replacement program.
http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si-912-022.pdf
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417301#417301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump replacement |
I have complied with the instructions to replace the fuel pump, installed a
fuel pressure sensor. When flying at @5000 rpm I am showing about 4.2 - 4.
7 psi with the electric fuel pump on. When I turn it off and rely solely on
the newly installed mechanical pump the pressure drops only slightly. But
other times when I turn off the electric pump it fall below the 2.7 psi ala
rm I have set on my EIS. The engine continues to run fine. Anyone else had
similar experience?=0A=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2=0ARans S7-S=0ARotax 912 ULS=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump replacement |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Stan,
Do you have a re-circulation line? These new pumps new them.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417347#417347
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 |
Yes I have the line returning fuel to the gascolator. Is that significant?
=0A=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Wednesday, January 22, 2014 2:20 AM, Ro
taxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:=0A
=0A*=0A=0A=====================
=====0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A==
========================0A=0A
Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of th
e =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest form
atted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked In
dexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Version:
=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
View=html&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Version:
=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
View=txt&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A====
====================0A- EMail Vers
ion of Today's List Digest Archive=0A============
============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ------------
----------------------------------------------=0A- - - - - -
- - - - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A-
- - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Tue 01/21/14: 1
=0A- - - - - ---------------------------------------------------
-------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A-
- 1. 04:45 AM - Re: Fuel pump replacement- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________- Message 1- ______________________________
Fuel pump replacement=0AFrom: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>=0A=0A=0AHi
Stan,=0A=0ADo you have a re-circulation line? These new pumps new them.=0A
=0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman - Maintenance
Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-574-1080- TR
Y HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0A
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417347#417347=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=========================0A
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax mechanic at SAC |
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?
Thanks, Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Yes it's significant, but in a good way. You really need one with the new pump.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417435#417435
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Woolson <mrwoolson(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC |
Hi Kevin=0AThere was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active b
ut I'm sure there are others in your area. You might want to contact the we
stern sales contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/
-if your seeking service for the 912/914.-=0A-=0A-I have yet to mee
t-anyone in the bayarea-that really-knows 2cycle that know what-the
y are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the rest as the
y go.=0A-=0ASorry I can't be of more help=0AMike=0ALivermore.CA=0A=0A=0A_
_______________________________=0A=0A--> RotaxEngines-List message posted b
y: Kevin Klinefelter =0A=0AAnyone know if ther
e is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?=0AThanks, Ke
vin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Look here.
http://www.rainbowaviation.com/repairman.htm
and here
http://rotaxirmt.com/
or Jeremy McGregor in Tracy, CA 209-481-5881
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417440#417440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC |
Mike and Roger,
Thanks for your replies.
Kevin
> On Jan 22, 2014, at 1:30 PM, Michael Woolson wrote
:
>
> Hi Kevin
> There was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active but I'm sur
e there are others in your area. You might want to contact the western sales
contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/ if your see
king service for the 912/914.
>
> I have yet to meet anyone in the bayarea that really knows 2cycle that kn
ow what they are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the r
est as they go.
>
> Sorry I can't be of more help
> Mike
> Livermore.CA
>
>
vin(at)gmail.com>
>
> Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive a
irport?
> Thanks, Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph K. Hallett III" <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 01/22/14 |
Kevin,
There is a fellow at Gnoss KDVO in Navato, CA name is Bill Sherlock.
He's from England and really knows the Rotax family. I'll find his phone
number and send it to you.
Ralph
On 1/23/2014 12:01 AM, RotaxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 14-01-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 14-01-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 01/22/14: 6
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 11:09 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 (Stan Tew)
> 2. 11:25 AM - Rotax mechanic at SAC (Kevin Klinefelter)
> 3. 12:11 PM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 (Roger Lee)
> 4. 01:30 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Michael Woolson)
> 5. 02:45 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Roger Lee)
> 6. 06:27 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Kevin Klinefelter)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14
>
> Yes I have the line returning fuel to the gascolator. Is that significant?
> =0A=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Wednesday, January 22, 2014 2:20 AM, Ro
> taxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:=0A
> =0A*=0A=0A====================
> =====0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=
> ========================0A=0A
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of th
> e =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest form
> atted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked In
> dexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Version:
> =0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
> View=html&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Version:
> =0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
> View=txt&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A===
> ====================0A- EMail Vers
> ion of Today's List Digest Archive=0A===========
> ============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ------------
> ----------------------------------------------=0A- - - - - -
> - - - - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- - -
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A-
> - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Tue 01/21/14: 1
> =0A- - - - - ---------------------------------------------------
> -------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A-
> - 1. 04:45 AM - Re: Fuel pump replacement- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A=0A____
> ____________________________- Message 1- ______________________________
> Fuel pump replacement=0AFrom: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>=0A=0A=0AHi
> Stan,=0A=0ADo you have a re-circulation line? These new pumps new them.=0A
> =0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman - Maintenance
> Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-574-1080- TR
> Y HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0A
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417347#417347=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
> =========================0A
> ==================
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
> From: Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?
> Thanks, Kevin
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Yes it's significant, but in a good way. You really need one with the new pump.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417435#417435
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Woolson <mrwoolson(at)prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
>
> Hi Kevin=0AThere was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active b
> ut I'm sure there are others in your area. You might want to contact the we
> stern sales contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/
> -if your seeking service for the 912/914.-=0A-=0A-I have yet to mee
> t-anyone in the bayarea-that really-knows 2cycle that know what-the
> y are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the rest as the
> y go.=0A-=0ASorry I can't be of more help=0AMike=0ALivermore.CA=0A=0A=0A_
> _______________________________=0A=0A--> RotaxEngines-List message posted b
> y: Kevin Klinefelter =0A=0AAnyone know if ther
> e is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?=0AThanks, Ke
> vin
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Look here.
> http://www.rainbowaviation.com/repairman.htm
>
> and here
>
> http://rotaxirmt.com/
>
> or Jeremy McGregor in Tracy, CA 209-481-5881
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417440#417440
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
>
> Mike and Roger,
> Thanks for your replies.
> Kevin
>
>> On Jan 22, 2014, at 1:30 PM, Michael Woolson wrote
> :
>> Hi Kevin
>> There was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active but I'm sur
> e there are others in your area. You might want to contact the western sales
> contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/ if your see
> king service for the 912/914.
>>
>> I have yet to meet anyone in the bayarea that really knows 2cycle that kn
> ow what they are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the r
> est as they go.
>>
>> Sorry I can't be of more help
>> Mike
>> Livermore.CA
>>
>>
> vin(at)gmail.com>
>> Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive a
> irport?
>> Thanks, Kevin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph K. Hallett III" <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 01/22/14 |
Kevin,
Take a look at Website link,
http://aircraftserviceuk.com/
Bill really knows the little devil inside out!
Ralph
On 1/23/2014 12:01 AM, RotaxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 14-01-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 14-01-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 01/22/14: 6
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 11:09 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 (Stan Tew)
> 2. 11:25 AM - Rotax mechanic at SAC (Kevin Klinefelter)
> 3. 12:11 PM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14 (Roger Lee)
> 4. 01:30 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Michael Woolson)
> 5. 02:45 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Roger Lee)
> 6. 06:27 PM - Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC (Kevin Klinefelter)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14
>
> Yes I have the line returning fuel to the gascolator. Is that significant?
> =0A=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Wednesday, January 22, 2014 2:20 AM, Ro
> taxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:=0A
> =0A*=0A=0A====================
> =====0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=
> ========================0A=0A
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of th
> e =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest form
> atted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked In
> dexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Version:
> =0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
> View=html&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Version:
> =0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
> View=txt&Chapter 14-01-21&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A===
> ====================0A- EMail Vers
> ion of Today's List Digest Archive=0A===========
> ============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ------------
> ----------------------------------------------=0A- - - - - -
> - - - - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- - -
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A-
> - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Tue 01/21/14: 1
> =0A- - - - - ---------------------------------------------------
> -------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A-
> - 1. 04:45 AM - Re: Fuel pump replacement- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A=0A____
> ____________________________- Message 1- ______________________________
> Fuel pump replacement=0AFrom: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>=0A=0A=0AHi
> Stan,=0A=0ADo you have a re-circulation line? These new pumps new them.=0A
> =0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman - Maintenance
> Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-574-1080- TR
> Y HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0A
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417347#417347=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
> =========================0A
> ==================
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
> From: Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?
> Thanks, Kevin
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/21/14
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Yes it's significant, but in a good way. You really need one with the new pump.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417435#417435
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Michael Woolson <mrwoolson(at)prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
>
> Hi Kevin=0AThere was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active b
> ut I'm sure there are others in your area. You might want to contact the we
> stern sales contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/
> -if your seeking service for the 912/914.-=0A-=0A-I have yet to mee
> t-anyone in the bayarea-that really-knows 2cycle that know what-the
> y are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the rest as the
> y go.=0A-=0ASorry I can't be of more help=0AMike=0ALivermore.CA=0A=0A=0A_
> _______________________________=0A=0A--> RotaxEngines-List message posted b
> y: Kevin Klinefelter =0A=0AAnyone know if ther
> e is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive airport?=0AThanks, Ke
> vin
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax mechanic at SAC
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Look here.
> http://www.rainbowaviation.com/repairman.htm
>
> and here
>
> http://rotaxirmt.com/
>
> or Jeremy McGregor in Tracy, CA 209-481-5881
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417440#417440
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax mechanic at SAC
>
> Mike and Roger,
> Thanks for your replies.
> Kevin
>
>> On Jan 22, 2014, at 1:30 PM, Michael Woolson wrote
> :
>> Hi Kevin
>> There was a few guys based out of Oakland when CPS were active but I'm sur
> e there are others in your area. You might want to contact the western sales
> contact for the Aerotrek LSA aircraft http://www.aerotrek.aero/ if your see
> king service for the 912/914.
>>
>> I have yet to meet anyone in the bayarea that really knows 2cycle that kn
> ow what they are doing. I feel they read stuff off the web and fill in the r
> est as they go.
>>
>> Sorry I can't be of more help
>> Mike
>> Livermore.CA
>>
>>
> vin(at)gmail.com>
>> Anyone know if there is a Rotax mechanic at or near Sacremento Executive a
> irport?
>> Thanks, Kevin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
> 3D===============3
> D==============
> ==============
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Maybe Roger Lee can answer this one:
I purchased a Dyna Vibe dynamic prop balancer and the instructions seem clear except
for this statement:
"If the accelerometer cable is pointing away from the center of the bub, then the
angle reported by the Dyna Vibe is the HEAVY spot (where to remove weight,
or 180 degrees from where to add weight.) If you flip it so the accelerometer
cable is pointing toward the hub, then the reading will indicate the light spot
(where to ADD weight.)"
Question: How can be orientation of the cable (not the accelerometer) change what
the reading angle means? (ie, heavy or light)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417551#417551
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
Sorry I'm out of the info loop on this one. I don't have a clue.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417561#417561
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John:
I missed the question... I have a Dyna Vibe, how can I help?
Barry
On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 7:47 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> Sorry I'm out of the info loop on this one. I don't have a clue.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417561#417561
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Hi John:
I just read the original post.
The answer is: It Can't!
It has to be a misprint.
I'm thinking it is easier to describe the accelerometer by identifying the
cable as apposed to the mounting threads. Which will be hidden when mounted.
Can you tell me what page that statement is on? And also what revision of
the manual you are reading?
If you really wanted to attempt something crazy, YES, you could make a
mount that points the accelerometer way from the HUB (Center of the shaft).
And that would give you the Lite Point, but, you would probably be adding
all sorts of erroneous vibrations due to the extended size of the bracket.
I do not understand why Dyna Vibe did not simply have the feature of
REVERSING the math or the output of the accelerometer. Or why they
used such a large housing for the accelerometer; phones and iPads have
surface mount accelerometers that are only 0.100" high and 0.250" square.
Take that and pot it and you are done. Oh, well! It works.
Barry
On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 11:49 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
> Maybe Roger Lee can answer this one:
>
> I purchased a Dyna Vibe dynamic prop balancer and the instructions seem
> clear except for this statement:
>
> "If the accelerometer cable is pointing away from the center of the bub,
> then the angle reported by the Dyna Vibe is the HEAVY spot (where to remove
> weight, or 180 degrees from where to add weight.) If you flip it so the
> accelerometer cable is pointing toward the hub, then the reading will
> indicate the light spot (where to ADD weight.)"
>
> Question: How can be orientation of the cable (not the accelerometer)
> change what the reading angle means? (ie, heavy or light)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417551#417551
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
Barry, thank you for the response. The statement is on page 33 of the
manual, second paragraph from the bottom. I have version 1-07. I am
repeating below the answer I got from Dyna Vibe which I will have to
read and re-read several times to try to understand it..
One other question I have is just exactly what is the 'axis of the
accelerometer' - is the vertical orientation of the unit, or some
rotational position? I don't have a clue.
Anyway, here is the answer from RPX...maybe you can help me clarify what
they are telliing me.
Fun question.
It has to do with the timing of the signals and what the accelerometer
"feels" vs when it feels it with respect to the optical tach signal. If
the accelerometer is rotated 180 degrees then the signals are backwards.
That's why the solution flips (heavy vs light). If you are 90 degrees,
then you will sense engine rotation in addition to vibration but the
vibration will be rotated 90 degrees and mixed with rotational
vibration. So that's not really useful. If you are at 45 degrees, then
you will sense rotation and vibration, but at a complex angle. So the
math would be quite convolved. You would have to separate rotation, x
vibration, and y vibration, which can't be done without more sensors to
see what is going on.
But I don't think you are looking for the literal answer to your
question. So the actual answer is that you want the axis of the
accelerometer pointing toward the center of rotation. If it isn't, then
you start sensing rotational vibration which isn't what you are looking
for. And if the sensor is backwards, then the math in the meter will be
backwards. Which explains the heavy vs light statement
Thanks again for your ehlp.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: FLYaDIVE
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer
Question
Hi John:
I just read the original post.
The answer is: It Can't!
It has to be a misprint.
I'm thinking it is easier to describe the accelerometer by identifying
the cable as apposed to the mounting threads. Which will be hidden when
mounted.
Can you tell me what page that statement is on? And also what
revision of the manual you are reading?
If you really wanted to attempt something crazy, YES, you could make a
mount that points the accelerometer way from the HUB (Center of the
shaft). And that would give you the Lite Point, but, you would probably
be adding all sorts of erroneous vibrations due to the extended size of
the bracket. I do not understand why Dyna Vibe did not simply have the
feature of REVERSING the math or the output of the accelerometer. Or
why they used such a large housing for the accelerometer; phones and
iPads have surface mount accelerometers that are only 0.100" high and
0.250" square. Take that and pot it and you are done. Oh, well! It
works.
Barry
On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 11:49 PM, JohnF wrote:
Maybe Roger Lee can answer this one:
I purchased a Dyna Vibe dynamic prop balancer and the instructions
seem clear except for this statement:
"If the accelerometer cable is pointing away from the center of the
bub, then the angle reported by the Dyna Vibe is the HEAVY spot (where
to remove weight, or 180 degrees from where to add weight.) If you flip
it so the accelerometer cable is pointing toward the hub, then the
reading will indicate the light spot (where to ADD weight.)"
Question: How can be orientation of the cable (not the
accelerometer) change what the reading angle means? (ie, heavy or light)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417551#417551
==========
-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John:
The answer can be quite confusing. Why? Because I'm an engineer and there
are no simple answers ;-)
Ok, the short version:
There are Three (3) primary axis's: X - Y - Z
X - is the Horizontal axis from Left to Right.
Y - Is the Vertical axis and is perpendicular to the X axis consider the
letter L
Z - is ... Harder to explain, take the letter L and draw a line from the
point where the Vertical and Horizontal come together BUT - Draw it
straight out towards you.
Now, 'axis of the accelerometer'. That is the way it is mounted... It
should be Vertical - Straight Up and Down. AND mounted ON TOP of the engine
- - - What Dyna Vibe is also explaining is the relationship between the
Accelerometer and the Photo Eye for obtaining the RPM. ALL your reading
will be in reference to the photo eye and what you deem the #1 blade of the
prop. The degree position of rotation is in relationship to the photo eye.
SO... If the Accelerometer is mounted on the Center-Line (C/L) of the
engine and the photo eye is off to one side (as in the pictures in the
manual) the degree indication of the Heavy point will NOT align with the
Accelerometer. AND THIS will drive you crazy when you try to put the
balance weights on. Example: The Dyna Vibe will say the heavy point is 090
Deg... You add 180 Deg and get 270 Deg... BUT! The photo eye is OFF C/L
to the right (facing) by say 1"... That will ADD about 15 Deg to the 270
reading and give you 285 Deg for the lite point. If you do
not consider this little fact you will chasing your tail trying to find the
prop balance point.
How do you correct this error? Make a bracket that puts the Accelerometer
and Photo Eye on the same Vertical Y axis.
I should sell these brackets but the price would be too high...
I read the response from Dyna Vibe... Yea, I understand it but it is
not very clear. They could have done a better job. Go with my
above explanation and things will work out correctly.
Now, my question: What plane and engine are you trying to balance?
I want to balance a friends Rotax Pusher but there is NO ring
gear/flywheel, where can I put the weights? It is also a three (3) blade
prop. <-- That makes no difference - Can do!
Barry
On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 10:30 AM, JohnF wrote:
> Barry, thank you for the response. The statement is on page 33 of the
> manual, second paragraph from the bottom. I have version 1-07. I am
> repeating below the answer I got from Dyna Vibe which I will have to read
> and re-read several times to try to understand it..
>
> One other question I have is just exactly what is the 'axis of the
> accelerometer' - is the vertical orientation of the unit, or some
> rotational position? I don't have a clue.
>
> Anyway, here is the answer from RPX...maybe you can help me clarify what
> they are telliing me.
>
>
> Fun question.
>
> It has to do with the timing of the signals and what the accelerometer
> =93feels=94 vs when it feels it with respect to the optical tach signal.
If the
> accelerometer is rotated 180 degrees then the signals are backwards. That
=92s
> why the solution flips (heavy vs light). If you are 90 degrees, then you
> will sense engine rotation in addition to vibration but the vibration wil
l
> be rotated 90 degrees and mixed with rotational vibration. So that=92s no
t
> really useful. If you are at 45 degrees, then you will sense rotation and
> vibration, but at a complex angle. So the math would be quite convolved.
> You would have to separate rotation, x vibration, and y vibration, which
> can=92t be done without more sensors to see what is going on.
>
> But I don=92t think you are looking for the literal answer to your
> question. So the actual answer is that you want the axis of the
> accelerometer pointing toward the center of rotation. If it isn=92t, then
you
> start sensing rotational vibration which isn=92t what you are looking for
.
> And if the sensor is backwards, then the math in the meter will be
> backwards. Which explains the heavy vs light statement
> Thanks again for your ehlp.
>
> John
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* FLYaDIVE
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 25, 2014 6:42 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RotaxEngines-List: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Questio
n
>
> Hi John:
>
> I just read the original post.
> The answer is: It Can't!
> It has to be a misprint.
> I'm thinking it is easier to describe the accelerometer by identifying th
e
> cable as apposed to the mounting threads. Which will be hidden when mount
ed.
> Can you tell me what page that statement is on? And also what revision o
f
> the manual you are reading?
>
> If you really wanted to attempt something crazy, YES, you could make a
> mount that points the accelerometer way from the HUB (Center of the
> shaft). And that would give you the Lite Point, but, you would probably
be
> adding all sorts of erroneous vibrations due to the extended size of the
> bracket. I do not understand why Dyna Vibe did not simply have the featu
re
> of REVERSING the math or the output of the accelerometer. Or why they
> used such a large housing for the accelerometer; phones and iPads have
> surface mount accelerometers that are only 0.100" high and 0.250" square.
> Take that and pot it and you are done. Oh, well! It works.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 11:49 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
>>
>> Maybe Roger Lee can answer this one:
>>
>> I purchased a Dyna Vibe dynamic prop balancer and the instructions seem
>> clear except for this statement:
>>
>> "If the accelerometer cable is pointing away from the center of the bub,
>> then the angle reported by the Dyna Vibe is the HEAVY spot (where to rem
ove
>> weight, or 180 degrees from where to add weight.) If you flip it so the
>> accelerometer cable is pointing toward the hub, then the reading will
>> indicate the light spot (where to ADD weight.)"
>>
>> Question: How can be orientation of the cable (not the accelerometer)
>> change what the reading angle means? (ie, heavy or light)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417551#417551
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List ">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RotaxEngines-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com ">http:/
/forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution ">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
===========
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Right you are John!
"I agree that RXP could improve their manual.....its hard to write clearly
when you have total knowledge of the subject and are writing to someone
else that isn't on board yet. You can easily forget to be detailed enough
to satisfy the uninformed mind.
Cheers
John"
John:
I wrote many a procedure and manual and you have to write as if the person
reading is not in the room with you and had no knowledge of the subject. I
use to say many a tech writer cannot see the forest, for the trees. Just
look at Micro Soft... The information they supplied was totally accurate,
but totally useless.
Barry
On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 10:30 AM, JohnF wrote:
> Barry, thank you for the response. The statement is on page 33 of the
> manual, second paragraph from the bottom. I have version 1-07. I am
> repeating below the answer I got from Dyna Vibe which I will have to read
> and re-read several times to try to understand it..
>
> One other question I have is just exactly what is the 'axis of the
> accelerometer' - is the vertical orientation of the unit, or some
> rotational position? I don't have a clue.
>
> Anyway, here is the answer from RPX...maybe you can help me clarify what
> they are telliing me.
>
>
> Fun question.
>
> It has to do with the timing of the signals and what the accelerometer
> =93feels=94 vs when it feels it with respect to the optical tach signal.
If the
> accelerometer is rotated 180 degrees then the signals are backwards. That
=92s
> why the solution flips (heavy vs light). If you are 90 degrees, then you
> will sense engine rotation in addition to vibration but the vibration wil
l
> be rotated 90 degrees and mixed with rotational vibration. So that=92s no
t
> really useful. If you are at 45 degrees, then you will sense rotation and
> vibration, but at a complex angle. So the math would be quite convolved.
> You would have to separate rotation, x vibration, and y vibration, which
> can=92t be done without more sensors to see what is going on.
>
> But I don=92t think you are looking for the literal answer to your
> question. So the actual answer is that you want the axis of the
> accelerometer pointing toward the center of rotation. If it isn=92t, then
you
> start sensing rotational vibration which isn=92t what you are looking for
.
> And if the sensor is backwards, then the math in the meter will be
> backwards. Which explains the heavy vs light statement
> Thanks again for your ehlp.
>
> John
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* FLYaDIVE
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 25, 2014 6:42 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RotaxEngines-List: Dyna Vibe Prop Dynamic Balancer Questio
n
>
> Hi John:
>
> I just read the original post.
> The answer is: It Can't!
> It has to be a misprint.
> I'm thinking it is easier to describe the accelerometer by identifying th
e
> cable as apposed to the mounting threads. Which will be hidden when mount
ed.
> Can you tell me what page that statement is on? And also what revision o
f
> the manual you are reading?
>
> If you really wanted to attempt something crazy, YES, you could make a
> mount that points the accelerometer way from the HUB (Center of the
> shaft). And that would give you the Lite Point, but, you would probably
be
> adding all sorts of erroneous vibrations due to the extended size of the
> bracket. I do not understand why Dyna Vibe did not simply have the featu
re
> of REVERSING the math or the output of the accelerometer. Or why they
> used such a large housing for the accelerometer; phones and iPads have
> surface mount accelerometers that are only 0.100" high and 0.250" square.
> Take that and pot it and you are done. Oh, well! It works.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 11:49 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
>>
>> Maybe Roger Lee can answer this one:
>>
>> I purchased a Dyna Vibe dynamic prop balancer and the instructions seem
>> clear except for this statement:
>>
>> "If the accelerometer cable is pointing away from the center of the bub,
>> then the angle reported by the Dyna Vibe is the HEAVY spot (where to rem
ove
>> weight, or 180 degrees from where to add weight.) If you flip it so the
>> accelerometer cable is pointing toward the hub, then the reading will
>> indicate the light spot (where to ADD weight.)"
>>
>> Question: How can be orientation of the cable (not the accelerometer)
>> change what the reading angle means? (ie, heavy or light)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417551#417551
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">
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>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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tor?RotaxEngines-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spark plug wire pulled out of ignition coil 912ul |
| From: | "egp8111" <egp8111(at)aol.com> |
During some obviously ham handed treatment trying to get my ignition mounted I
pulled one of the spark plug wires out of the ignition coil. Has anyone experienced
this and is there a fix short of buying a new coil ?
thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418317#418317
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plug wire pulled out of ignition coil 912ul |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Skip,
yes they can. They just screw in place over a threaded spike inside the coil insertion
point. Same as the spark plug boot. Trim it back 1/4" - 3/8" to get clean
undamaged wire.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418345#418345
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Introduction John Hauck |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Folks:
My name is John Hauck. Have owned and flown with Rotax 912 (before the days of
the 912UL and ULS) beginning in 1992. Started out with a 912, then two 912ULS's.
Have accumulated a little over 3,000 hours on these engine during the past
22 years. I fly a 1992 Kolb MKIII. The first 220 hours on the airframe I
used a 582, that promptly seized in 1993. What a difference the 912 engines made
on the MKIII.
Hope to learn more about our engines here. Maybe I can pass along some of the
experiences I have had flying two and four stroke Rotax engines for the past 30
years.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418457#418457
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Folks:
I've been using iridium spark plugs in my 95 Nissan V6, Suzuki DRZ400E, and Honda
Ricon, for some time now with excellent results.
My questions to the Rotax Engine List are:
Has anyone experimented with NGK DCPR7EIX/DCPR8EIX spark plugs in the 912UL/912ULS
engines?
Anyone have any info from ROTAX reference use of iridium plugs?
I have never had any problems with DCPR7E/DCPR8E plugs in my 912UL/912ULS engines.
Thanks,
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418464#418464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
The iridium's will work, but I don't know if you really get any more for your money.
They are almost triple the price.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418506#418506
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Over the years we have gotten good results running the standard plug well past
the 100 and 200 hour limits for the 912ULS and 912UL. John Williamson went past
200 hours with his 912ULS. I've been flying these engines for a long time.
I always hate to change them because I can never see any increase in performance
with a new set of plugs. Back in the days of the 912, 1993, a DCPR7ES cost
about 9.00 each. Rotax was the only supplier. I contacted the US Distributor
for NGK to find another source, but there was none. There was nothing extraordinary
about the DCPR7ES, but ROTAX's price.
I think the iridium plugs will go much, much further. Eventually, Rotax will probably
start supplying them.
If I didn't have a fresh set of DCPR8ES plugs to install, I'd spring for a set
of iridium. My main concern was if they had the same rib pattern and screw off
nuts. From photos, looks like they have the ribs and specs indicate screw off
nuts. I'll have to wait another 100 hours to do some experimenting.
Surprised no one has not already tried them.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418509#418509
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Greetings from Iceland |
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?J=C3=B3hann_Gestur_J=C3=B3hannsson?= <joeing701(at)simnet.is> |
Hello John and welcome to the Rotax list.
Glad to hear from you again. We will definetly benifit from your experience on
this list.
Good to hear that you are still enjoying your Kolb. My plane is a Zenith 701 with
a Rotax 912 ul. Building one with the uls. First flight scheduled in 2015.
Look forward to hear your comments on the list.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
You can buy NGK DCPR8E plugs for about $2.80 each ($22.40 total). Iridium's are
about $9 each ($72 total). You can afford to have new plugs 3 times for the price
of iridium's. Iridium's will still need to be gapped and cleaned. Any leaded
fuel will still deposit lead. I know you travel a lot so you may use 100LL
more often than some?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418523#418523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I found NGK Iridium Plugs, DCPR8EIX, last night for 6.99 at the local O'reilly's
Auto. I get a 10% military discount, so that brings them down to 6.30 each.
I can afford that.
Only time I ever fouled a plug was a DCPR7E on the 912 during a flight to Alaska
in 1994. Wasn't a problem, just an annoyance until I got on the ground in Sault
Saint Marie, Ontario, where I cleaned it with my pin knife.
Haven't had a problem with lead fouling on the 912 or the 912ULS's since. Yes,
I burn a lot of 100LL. All one can get on cross country flights. On a normal
flight out West I will fly about 75 hours and burn 375 gals of 100LL. I fly
at 5,000 rpm and higher, always. Don't believe in babying the 912. That and
a little Marvel Mystery Oil keeps the 912ULS happy. On one trip to Alaska I
used Alcor TCP. Didn't seem to do any better job than the MMO.
I believe I will get a little improvement with the iridium plugs. Will only know
once I get them installed and when the weather gets a bit better, get some
time on them.
Thanks for the info from Roger Lee and the welcome from Johann J, an old friend
from the Kolb List.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418537#418537
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Refitting the fly wheel |
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?J=C3=B3hann_Gestur_J=C3=B3hannsson?= <joeing701(at)simnet.is> |
Hello Rotax owners.
I am about to re-fit the fly wheel on my Rotax 912 uls engine after installing
a new stator assy.
The heavy maintenance manual states that it should be tightened to 45 Nm + 180
deg. Angle to rotation. This should be around 1062 in/pounds. This is a lot for
only one stop bolt on the crankshaft. Will this procedure be safe for the crankshaft
not to twist under all this force?
Regards,
Johann G.
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Refitting the fly wheel |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
This is about 88 ft/lbs. The one on the PTO side inside the gearbox gets around
149 ft/lbs. It isn't so bad when you compare. 45nm is 398 in/lbs or 33 ft/lbs.
I'm not 100% sure what the extra 180 degree turn would yield, but is common
on head bolts and the like to apply a certain torque followed by a certain amount
of degree turn.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418638#418638
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Refitting the fly wheel |
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_J=F3hannsson?= <joeing701(at)simnet.is> |
Thank you again, Roger, for you help. It was not as extreme as I had thought when
I had the right tool. Flywheel torqued according to the manual.
Best regards,
Johann G.
On 13.2.2014, at 00:39, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> This is about 88 ft/lbs. The one on the PTO side inside the gearbox gets around
149 ft/lbs. It isn't so bad when you compare. 45nm is 398 in/lbs or 33 ft/lbs.
I'm not 100% sure what the extra 180 degree turn would yield, but is common
on head bolts and the like to apply a certain torque followed by a certain amount
of degree turn.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418638#418638
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Wheelwright" <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Oil Thermostat
I'm considering fitting the Oil thermostat supplyed by Conair in the UK (Approved
LAA Mod) My Question is. After removing my cowl and considering the best location
to mount the thermostat, Does anyone have any pictures of a suggested location.
As the thermostat is quite large with the hose connections fitted to
it.
Thank you in advance
Richard Wheelwright
G-IRPW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418803#418803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Roberts" <jnjrob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Thermostat |
Mocal A0T2-7 -8AN Male. Mount where vacuum pump would mount.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Wheelwright
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 1:29 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Oil Thermostat
Oil Thermostat
I'm considering fitting the Oil thermostat supplyed by Conair in the UK
(Approved LAA Mod) My Question is. After removing my cowl and considering
the best location to mount the thermostat, Does anyone have any pictures of
a suggested location. As the thermostat is quite large with the hose
connections fitted to it.
Thank you in advance
Richard Wheelwright
G-IRPW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418803#418803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Thermostat |
Jim,=0A- - Thank you for your reply. Yes that sounds like a good locati
on. The only thing with that is the LAA mod instructions only says Do not m
ount directly to the Engine. Other wise it would be good to go.=0A=0ARegard
s=0A-=0A=====================
=========================0A
=0ARichard Wheelwright=0A================
=====0A=0A=0A=0AOn Sunday, 16 February 2014, 21:21, Jim Roberts wrote:=0A =0AMocal A0T2-7 -8AN Male.- Mount where vacuum
pump would mount.=0AJim=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message----- =0AFrom: Richard
Wheelwright=0ASent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 1:29 PM=0ATo: rotaxengines-l
ist(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Oil Thermostat=0A=0A--> Rot
axEngines-List message posted by: "Richard Wheelwright" =0A=0A=0AOil Thermostat=0A=0AI'm considering fitting the Oil thermo
stat supplyed by Conair in the UK =0A(Approved LAA Mod) My Question is. Aft
er removing my cowl and considering =0Athe best location to mount the therm
ostat, Does anyone have any pictures of =0Aa suggested location. As the the
rmostat is quite large with the hose =0Aconnections fitted to it.=0A=0AThan
k you in advance=0A=0ARichard Wheelwright=0AG-IRPW=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this
topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41880
3#418803
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Thermostat |
| From: | Nati Niv <n992dn(at)gmail.com> |
Richard
For what it worth, here are pictures of a THERMOSTASIS oil thermostat
installed on 912ULS in my RANS S6S
Works perfect for me
Nati
Illinois, US
On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Richard Wheelwright <
rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
>
> Oil Thermostat
>
> I'm considering fitting the Oil thermostat supplyed by Conair in the UK
> (Approved LAA Mod) My Question is. After removing my cowl and considering
> the best location to mount the thermostat, Does anyone have any pictures of
> a suggested location. As the thermostat is quite large with the hose
> connections fitted to it.
>
> Thank you in advance
>
> Richard Wheelwright
> G-IRPW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418803#418803
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aircraft Specialty <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Thermostat |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
The iridium electrode plugs feature perhaps the lowest rate of electrode lo
ss or wear over time.- They make sense for high energy ignition systems.
- The Rotax ignition system is a low energy system where standard spark p
lug electrode wear over time is very low.- I appreciate the low maintenan
ce of iridium spark plugs in my autos, but do not feel they are a good inve
stment for my Rotax 912.- I consider iridium spark plugs in my autos to b
e life time plugs.- I have a Toyota that is at 200,000 miles with the ori
ginal iridium spark plugs still performing as if the auto were new.--Af
ter first 100,000 miles, the electrode gap had changed only 1.5 - 2.0 thous
andths!- When I do pull them, I check for gas leakage around the porcelai
n insulator before regaping and reinstallation.- Some auto manufacturers
spec their autos equipped with iridium spark plugs for spark plug service a
fter 100,000 miles.=0ADavid Weaver N012GR=0A- =0A =0A=0A_________________
_______________=0A From: Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>=0ATo: rotaxengines
-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, February 10, 2014 6:49 PM=0ASubject: R
otaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Spark Plugs=0A =0A=0A--> RotaxEngines-List messa
ge posted by: "Roger Lee" =0A=0AThe iridium's will wor
k, but I don't know if you really get any more for your money. They are alm
ost triple the price.=0A=0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport
Repairman - Maintenance Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
=0AHome 520-574-1080- TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARe
ad this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
=========================0A
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Adm
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
David:
You are using reverse logic. The poorer the ignition system the more you
should do to improve it. Not to keep it poor. The advantage of iridium or
platinum plugs are:
1 - Harder denser material which will not reverse deposit, deteriorating
away the electrode.
2 - Higher corrosion protection so the electrodes will not rust away
loosing material.
3 - Higher resistance to erosion at high temperatures both from the heat of
the engine and the heat of the electric spark.
4 - Lower electrical resistance.
5 - Smaller surface area which reduces carbon and lead fouling. I know, I
know, this sounds like reverse logic, doesn't it! - Because you would think
that MORE area would be required so when you get carbon and lead fouling
more area would be available for the spark to jump across the electrodes.
NOT SO! Better conduction, with smaller area, allows the carbon and lead
fouling to be blown off an NOT get a foot hold. Contrary to popular
opinion - More is not always better. Consider the Massive Electro Plugs -
No where near as good as the 'BY' series or the better iridium plugs.
I do not understand why a new engines like the Rotax do not have a modern
ignition system. You would think that all that was learned over the past
104 years of aviation and automobiles - SOME of it would be applied to
today's engines.
Car ignition systems of today produce 60,000 to 100,000 Volts to make a
spark. Yes, there are some systems today that are up there, some, very few.
As for co$t. I don't think you will find anyone else as tight fist'd as I.
And even so when you compare: A basic plug of $2.50 Vs a iridium plug of
$7.50 ... What are you talking about a $5 difference!!! That would be $25
more for an entire engine that cost you $18,000! $25 would buy you about
4.5 gallons of AvGas or 6.5 gallons of MoGas. How much is it worth NOT to
get stranded and NOT have to pull & clean the plugs? This is one area where
I want to hedge my bet.
Barry
On Fri, Feb 21, 2014 at 9:08 AM, David Weaver wrote:
> The iridium electrode plugs feature perhaps the lowest rate of electrode
> loss or wear over time. They make sense for high energy ignition systems.
> The Rotax ignition system is a low energy system where standard spark plug
> electrode wear over time is very low. I appreciate the low maintenance of
> iridium spark plugs in my autos, but do not feel they are a good investment
> for my Rotax 912. I consider iridium spark plugs in my autos to be life
> time plugs. I have a Toyota that is at 200,000 miles with the original
> iridium spark plugs still performing as if the auto were new. After first
> 100,000 miles, the electrode gap had changed only 1.5 - 2.0 thousandths!
> When I do pull them, I check for gas leakage around the porcelain insulator
> before regaping and reinstallation. Some auto manufacturers spec their
> autos equipped with iridium spark plugs for spark plug service after
> 100,000 miles.
> David Weaver N012GR
>
> *From:* Roger Lee
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, February 10, 2014 6:49 PM
> *Subject:* RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 Spark Plugs
>
>
> The iridium's will work, but I don't know if you really get any more for
> your money. They are almost triple the price.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopnbsp; -Matt
> Dralle,===========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I have a set of DCPR8EIX NGK's to install as soon as I get a chance. Anxious to
see how they perform in the 912ULS compared to the DCPR8E NGK's. If I get a
little more power, I'll take it. If I get a little bit better fuel burn, I'll
take that too.
I paid twice as much for the iridium plugs as I would have for standard plugs.
I'm sure I can get 200 hours out of them, we did that with DCPR8E's in the 912ULS.
At the rate I have been flying the last couple years, those iridium plugs may last
the rest of my life. ;-)
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419114#419114
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 91X 26 amp Gen2 $137.50 per amp |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hi Group
Those who have a Rotax 91X know things aren't cheap.
Here's a 26 amp Gen2 for $137.50 per amp:
http://sportair.aero/12-epapower/epapower/
Ron Parigoris
BTW if you are a real die hard you can put one on the 130 HP 915 for $57,250
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419116#419116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
I have over 350 hours on a 912-UL engine burning no-lead auto fuel.- I pu
rchased an extra set of standard NGK plugs so I could have a clean extra se
t to swap out on periodic inspection.- It appears that the standard plugs
may last for the first 1,000 hours of engine operation simply by cleaning
and readjusting electrode gap as necessary.- I know some believe cleaning
spark plugs to be improper procedure and dirty plugs should be replaced.
- It is hard for me to change what I have learned from experience working
on gas engines from the time that we were polarizing replacement voltage r
egulators on automotive electrical system with generators.- When it comes
time to replace the-manufacturer specked-spark plugs, I will install t
he iridium equivalent and fully expect to see no change in engine performan
ce.-=0ADave Weaver N912GR=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A Fr
om: John Hauck =0ATo: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Friday, February 21, 2014 7:05 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: R
Hauck" =0A=0AI have a set of DCPR8EIX NGK's to insta
ll as soon as I get a chance.- Anxious to see how they perform in the 912
ULS compared to the DCPR8E NGK's.- If I get a little more power, I'll tak
e it.- If I get a little bit better fuel burn, I'll take that too.=0A=0AI
paid twice as much for the iridium plugs as I would have for standard plug
s.- I'm sure I can get 200 hours out of them, we did that with DCPR8E's i
n the 912ULS.=0A=0AAt the rate I have been flying the last couple years, th
ose iridium plugs may last the rest of my life.- ;-)=0A=0A--------=0AJohn
Hauck=0AMKIII/912ULS=0Ahauck's holler=0ATitus, Alabama=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead
this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Adm
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Spark Plugs |
Hi Folks:
The 912UL is much easier on spark plugs than the 912ULS, having discovered
this by flying 1250.0 hours with my 912 (bought it before the 912UL/912ULS
were developed), and 2,000.0+ hours on my 912ULS's. On a steady diet of
MOGAS, the 912UL might just make it to 1,000.0 hours on a set of plugs, but
I imagine there won't be much left of the electrode and ground strap.
I pulled my old DCPR8ES's out of the 912ULS this morning and replaced with
DCPR8EIX's. Comparing the two plugs it seems to me that the newer
technology will work a lot better in my engine. I am going to think
positive and hope for a slight improvement in performance. I can use all I
can get.
I have three tractors that sport generators and voltage regulators.
However, I polarize the generator and not the regulator. My first generator
was on a 1931 Model A Ford I drove to school back in the mid-50's. However,
back then I didn't know the first thing about polarizing generators. ;-)
Looking forward to flying with the iridium plugs as soon as my airstrip
dries out from the thunder storms last night, and I get the cow manure
spread out to dry. The cows love to crap on my airstrip. I have a diamond
drag I made out of 6 truck tires. I use the old antique tractors to pull
the drag to spread the manure which helps it dry faster. Kills two birds
with one stone. Gets the old gals some exercise and helps keep the cow crap
off my airplane.
john h
Kolb MKIII - 3,231.8 hours
912ULS - 663.3 hours
Titus, Alabama
I have over 350 hours on a 912-UL engine burning no-lead auto fuel
It is hard for me to change what I have learned from experience working on
gas engines from the time that we were polarizing replacement voltage
regulators on automotive electrical system with generators.
When it comes time to replace the manufacturer specked spark plugs, I will
install the iridium equivalent and fully expect to see no change in engine
performance.
Dave Weaver N912GR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> |
Jan,
I am planning to fly to the event in Sweden at end of May. With regard to flying
through Netherlands can you recommend any advice with regard to navigation and
recommended stops.
Regards
David Park
dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk
On 3 Aug 2013, at 20:02, Jan de Jong wrote:
>
> Hi Jacques.
>
> The 912iS alternator is oil cooled and needs the 912iS engine block, so that
option seems definitely out.
>
> Jan de Jong
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Ethanol Free MoGas |
Friends,
I found this site which lists service stations in the USA & Canada offering ethanol
free MoGas.
http://pure-gas.org/
Select your state or province and check for availability in your area.
Good luck! So far, I haven't found a source in my locality :-(
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914 w/ Intercooler & Airmaster C/S Prop
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
H: 940-497-2123
C: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Lines and Aluminum AN Fittings |
Anybody using aluminum AN fittings on their oil lines on a 912? With an
oil cooler? For approximately how many hours? I've been told I must
convert to steel for all the oil line end fittings. Tough to do with AN
fittings and decent routing.
Next: Anybody using AN non-banjo fittings to attach fuel lines to the
carbs? I found an 8mm male to -3 AN male steel adapter, but have 1/4"
fuel lines so need to convert to -4. I can only find -3 AN to -4 AN
converters in aluminum.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
Now a glider pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mark donahue" <marktdonahue(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Lines and Aluminum AN Fittings |
Hi Guy,
I have alum AN fittings on my LO cooler and have had them for 1000 hrs...no
issues.
I just have the barbed fittings and fuel hose with clamps to the carbs.
Take care,
Mark Donahue
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy
Buchanan
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 7:25 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Oil Lines and Aluminum AN Fittings
-->
Anybody using aluminum AN fittings on their oil lines on a 912? With an oil
cooler? For approximately how many hours? I've been told I must convert to
steel for all the oil line end fittings. Tough to do with AN fittings and
decent routing.
Next: Anybody using AN non-banjo fittings to attach fuel lines to the carbs?
I found an 8mm male to -3 AN male steel adapter, but have 1/4"
fuel lines so need to convert to -4. I can only find -3 AN to -4 AN
converters in aluminum.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded Now a glider
pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil change question |
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change it at
20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after burping
the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in the tank,
which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil level is above the
dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20 revolutions and ran the starter
for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil pressure and level did not go down. Pressurized
the tank, via the oil blow by line, to about 7-8 # with no change. This
did not happen when I first filled the tank with oil. What am I doing wrong?
Is it safe to start and check the oil pressure within 30 seconds?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Roberts" <jnjrob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
If your start switch is also the master you have no power to the senders in
the start mode. Check for pressure just as you release the start mode but
the switch is still on.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: krazydoc33
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2014 11:28 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: oil change question
I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in
the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil level
is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20 revolutions and
ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil pressure and level did
not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow by line, to about 7-8 #
with no change. This did not happen when I first filled the tank with oil.
What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and check the oil pressure within
30 seconds?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re:_RotaxEngines-List:_oil_change_question? |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Krazy, NO! If you truly believe you don't have oil pressure it is
definitely NOT safe to start the engine. The 912 does not tolerate no or
low oil pressure and long before that 30 seconds is up your engine will be
toast.
Suggest you pull the top spark plugs from all cylinders and spin the engine
by hand until you hear the engine burp. If you cannot get the engine to
burp and you still believe the engine has no oil pressure, pull the oil
pressure sender and install a mechanical gauge like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-82323/overview/ as a test unit. Yeah,
it will double the price of your oil change but an extra $40 is cheaper by
far than a new engine.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM, wrote:
> You are probably being a little impatient with your expectations of oil
> pressure in 6 or 7 seconds.
> Are you sure that you did not turn the engine at all, forwards or
> backwards when your oil tank was empty?
> If so you could have got air into the oil system. The oil pump will not
> pump air!!! If you did then you will need to bleed the oil system from
> scratch. See the Rotax manual for procedure.
> I expect you just did not motor the engine long enough. Remove one plug
> from each cylinder and motor for 20 secs or until oil pressure rises. If
> you still don't get px then bleed the oil system.
>
> Regards
> Pete Jeffers
>
> *From:* Jim Roberts
> *Sent:* Sunday, 6 April 2014 17:44
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> If your start switch is also the master you have no power to the senders
> in
> the start mode. Check for pressure just as you release the start mode but
> the switch is still on.
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: krazydoc33
> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2014 11:28 AM
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: oil change question
>
>
> I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
> it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
> burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back
> in
> the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil
> level
> is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20 revolutions and
> ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil pressure and level
> did
> not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow by line, to about 7-8
> #
> with no change. This did not happen when I first filled the tank with oil.
> What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and check the oil pressure
> within
> 30 seconds?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re:_RotaxEngines-List:_oil_change_question? |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- It's been a while since I looked in my Bing 54, so I have to ask.- Wh
at is the proper installation of the sieve sleeve in the carb bowl?- Bott
om of the jet, or slid all the way up?=0A=0A----------
-------------------------
-------------------------
---------------- Bill Sullivan=0A---
-------------------------
-------------------------
----------------------- Winds
or Locks, Ct.=0A-------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
-------- Kolb Firestar, 447=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Oil change should be simple. Rotate the prop before you drain oil or remove the
filter and never again until the oil is back in the tank and the filter installed.
3 qts. of oil. If you introduce too much air into the system then you will
need to do a full Rotax oil purge. There is no need to go there. If you are
using Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 then they are liters and just use all 3 liters.
This should put you at the top of the dip stick. You can not pre-fill the new
Rotax oil filters because of the check valve in the filter. Leave the plugs in
place and rotate the prop 20 times +/- it doesn't need to be exact. You must
leave the plugs in place because the only way for oil to get back to the oil
tank is by crankcase pressure. If you remove the plugs you lose that. Then start
the engine and the pressure is usually there within a 1-3 seconds because
the system still has oil in it. I would not personally turn the engine over with
the ignition off. First it isn't necessary and if done wrong under certain
conditions can cause damage.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to call.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421699#421699
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "egp8111" <egp8111(at)aol.com> |
I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but turning
off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them several time
but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and waited for
it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and everything was in order.
The funny thing is the switches had been working fine before and have been
since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this is possible if the engine
is shut down hot but in this case the motor was barely warm.. Anyone have any
ideas ?
Thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nati Niv <n992dn(at)gmail.com> |
Hi
It is not possible for the engine to keep on running if the ignition
switches are in the off position, and you said that you checked continuity
to ground, correct?
It is very possible that as part of the carb sync you messed up with the
aluminum tube that connects the two carbs together, this tube is located
very close to the electronic ignition modules and it is possible that while
messing with it, you actually broke the "kill" wires leading from the
ignition switches in the cockpit to the electronic modules, I would suggest
checking continuity to ground starting right on the kill connection at the
module location itself.
Nati
RANS 6 912ULS, Illinois
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 10:56 AM, egp8111 wrote:
>
> I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but
> turning off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them
> several time but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and
> waited for it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and
> everything was in order. The funny thing is the switches had been working
> fine before and have been since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this
> is possible if the engine is shut down hot but in this case the motor was
> barely warm.. Anyone have any ideas ?
> Thanks
> EG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
EG:
Did the engine run smooth after you shut off the ignition switches? If so
then check the grounding of your switches again. Check further down the
wiring not just at the switch to ground.
If the engine ran rough then you could have a HOT SPOT in one or more
cylinders. A hot spot can cause run-on, dieseling, and pre-ignition. If
this is the case check the plugs first, then the area inside the cylinders
where the plugs screw into. You are LQQKing small hang-nails of metal.
These will heat up, hold the temps and fire-off a fuel air mixture.
Barry
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 11:56 AM, egp8111 wrote:
>
> I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but
> turning off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them
> several time but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and
> waited for it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and
> everything was in order. The funny thing is the switches had been working
> fine before and have been since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this
> is possible if the engine is shut down hot but in this case the motor was
> barely warm.. Anyone have any ideas ?
> Thanks
> EG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
You bought a RatTax
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM, krazydoc33 wrote:
>
> I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
> it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
> burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in
> the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil
> level is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20
> revolutions and ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil
> pressure and level did not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow
> by line, to about 7-8 # with no change. This did not happen when I first
> filled the tank with oil. What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and
> check the oil pressure within 30 seconds?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry Doc,
But this is the biggest failure on Rotax's part, they did not eliminating a
ridiculous problem. All these engines and all these years and all they
could do is offer a complicated solution. Would deal with a car that had
this issue?
Barry
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM, krazydoc33 wrote:
>
> I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
> it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
> burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in
> the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil
> level is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20
> revolutions and ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil
> pressure and level did not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow
> by line, to about 7-8 # with no change. This did not happen when I first
> filled the tank with oil. What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and
> check the oil pressure within 30 seconds?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I would look at grounding at the ignition switch and up at the ignition modules
on the 6 pin connectors. White wire in the corner.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421750#421750
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jim, The panel is a Dynon skyView, when the master is on so are all the senders.
As others have suggested the oil pump needed to be primed. I think what happened
is that I left the oil filter off overnight to let it drain down and it
also drained the oil pump down too. I purged the system per the Rotax manual
and all is now well. I did remove all the top plugs to be able to spin the engine
over easier. This engine has always run with a black sooty exhaust pipe.
The front two plugs have a black sooty deposit on them but the two rear plugs
look fine, a light brown color. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421752#421752
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Rick, I was under the impression the main jet well screen was an air dam to
prevent air bubbles from entering the main jet well that could lean out the
mixture.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
William, The screen should sit in the well cast into the float bowl as a
final coarse filter to keep crap out of the main jet.
Rick Girard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Roberts" <jnjrob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
100LL or car gas?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: krazydoc33
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 8:57 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: oil change question
Hi Jim, The panel is a Dynon skyView, when the master is on so are all the
senders. As others have suggested the oil pump needed to be primed. I think
what happened is that I left the oil filter off overnight to let it drain
down and it also drained the oil pump down too. I purged the system per the
Rotax manual and all is now well. I did remove all the top plugs to be able
to spin the engine over easier. This engine has always run with a black
sooty exhaust pipe. The front two plugs have a black sooty deposit on them
but the two rear plugs look fine, a light brown color. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421752#421752
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Henry,
Some of the things you are talking about are normal and there are some tips I can
give you. Give me a call. I'll be able to put your mind at rest.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421771#421771
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jim,
So far nothing but 91 octane automotive fuel, and all from the same gas
station which is right across the road from the air park. Maybe time to try
another one?
Roger, I will give you a call or maybe stop by there?
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421817#421817
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CHT reading failure |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
The 912S sat out the winter months while we worked through the gig list
from the aircraft's annual. The only change to the engine was replacing an
O-ring on the coolant inlet of the number 4 head.
On startup last Sunday, the engine started and ran fine however the MGL
EFIS would not show CHT readings. I've verified that the wires from the
senders to the RDAX unit are connected, but the day closed out before I
could get any further. It seems unlikely that both senders would fail at
once but I would still like to verify that they're working properly. Does
anyone have or know of a resistance chart for Rotax CHT senders?
Thanks,
Rick Girard
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT reading failure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi rick,
I can almost guarantee it isn't the two separate CHT senders. Somewhere there is
a bad connection.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421836#421836
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Roberts" <jnjrob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
I have read auto fuel will cause the exhaust pipe to be black.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: krazydoc33
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2014 8:54 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: oil change question
Hi Jim,
So far nothing but 91 octane automotive fuel, and all from the same
gas station which is right across the road from the air park. Maybe time to
try another one?
Roger, I will give you a call or maybe stop by there?
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421817#421817
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
If your engine is operating properly neither fuel makes the exhaust black. too
much idling and too low an idle rpm might.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421861#421861
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT reading failure |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Rick,
Here is a VDO chart of temp sensors.
Jim Butcher
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421867#421867
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/temperatureresistancechart_124.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sonar1(at)cox.net" <sonar1(at)cox.net> |
Exact same thing happened to me about 50 engine hours ago. I tried reaching under
the instrument panel to ground the switch terminals - no luck. Finally just
let it run out of fuel. Next time it worked just fine, and has for over a year.
Can't explain it.......Fred
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421948#421948
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Down for Repair (PLEASE READ)... |
Dear Listers,
Late Tuesday night 4/15/2014, the Matronics Web server crashed due to a multi-disk
RAID 5 failure. The system has complete data backups, but I will likely have
to order some replacement disks to rebuild the system. I'll work as quickly
as I can to restore the Matronics Web Server.
The Matronics EMAIL server is NOT impacted by this issue. All normal Matronics
Email List mail will flow as usual. However, the Matronics Web Forums interface
will not be available.
Also impacted by the Web Server outage will be the AeroElectric web site.
I will try to post daily updates on the Web Server restoration status.
I apologize for the inconvenience... :-(
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ) |
Dear Listers,
The new hard drives for the Matronics web server arrived today, Thursday 4/17/2014
and the RAID5 disk array rebuild went very smoothly.
Web server is back online and fully functional! No data or files were lost.
Additionally, those that frequent the AeroElectric web site will find that it has
been restored as well.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blinking Charge Light |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Our electrical system has worked without a problem for 500 hours and 5 years.
Recently the charge lite has begun to blink on and off while in flight. It is
still on solid at low rpm or engine off and gets dimmer and finally goes off
as the rpm is increased (around 3000 rpm). But during cruise at 5000 rpm, it
blinks off and on. And this behavior seems a little intermittent. First noticed
it 2 flights ago. The next flight was fine and today it was fine for the
first half of the flight and then blinked the last half.
Yet the engine monitor shows the voltage constant at 13.2 volts and current into
the battery varying between 2 and 4 amps. These are the same as have been for
years.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Jim & Heather
Europa XS 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422329#422329
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blinking Charge Light |
Check the gound connection for corrosion.
Kevin
> On Apr 24, 2014, at 12:58 PM, "h&jeuropa" wrote:
>
>
> Our electrical system has worked without a problem for 500 hours and 5 years.
Recently the charge lite has begun to blink on and off while in flight. It
is still on solid at low rpm or engine off and gets dimmer and finally goes off
as the rpm is increased (around 3000 rpm). But during cruise at 5000 rpm, it
blinks off and on. And this behavior seems a little intermittent. First noticed
it 2 flights ago. The next flight was fine and today it was fine for the
first half of the flight and then blinked the last half.
>
> Yet the engine monitor shows the voltage constant at 13.2 volts and current into
the battery varying between 2 and 4 amps. These are the same as have been
for years.
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> Jim & Heather
> Europa XS 914
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422329#422329
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Blinking Charge Light |
The Charge Light is blinking. That only tells you that the indicator
light is blinking. Start there. The fault may only be the light. If
the light checks OK then move on to grounds, the wiring, etc.
Think of all the stories of the parts replacement technician at the
local auto dealer. His computer says the MAP sensor is bad. He
replaces it and one of two things happen. The problem goes away but
actually it is cured because the act of disconnecting it "cleaned" the
connection. Or, the computers says the oxygen sensor is bad. Replacing
it does one of the same two things.
The next day the guy's wife loses the gas cap. A new one is installed
and, voila, the problem goes away.
On 4/24/2014 8:17 PM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote:
>
> Check the gound connection for corrosion.
> Kevin
>
>
>> On Apr 24, 2014, at 12:58 PM, "h&jeuropa" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Our electrical system has worked without a problem for 500 hours and 5 years.
Recently the charge lite has begun to blink on and off while in flight. It
is still on solid at low rpm or engine off and gets dimmer and finally goes off
as the rpm is increased (around 3000 rpm). But during cruise at 5000 rpm,
it blinks off and on. And this behavior seems a little intermittent. First noticed
it 2 flights ago. The next flight was fine and today it was fine for the
first half of the flight and then blinked the last half.
>>
>> Yet the engine monitor shows the voltage constant at 13.2 volts and current
into the battery varying between 2 and 4 amps. These are the same as have been
for years.
>>
>> Any ideas or suggestions?
>>
>> Jim & Heather
>> Europa XS 914
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422329#422329
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Sent from my Gateway E4610D
Lyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Problem on 912ULS |
Hi There all,
Cold start ok, run smooth @2500 rpm, when temp ok can run till 5800 rpm but
test @3850 rpm fails on EACH (same on one or the other) circuit alone :
loose 700 RPM and runs rough and not equilibrated. Back to a quasi smooth
run when on both circuits!
Any Idea?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
rparigoris
Envoy: mercredi 4 juillet 2012 00:36
: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: RotaxEngines-List: I wish there was a Rotax 9XX video like this.
-->
I wish there was a 9XX video like this:
http://jalopnik.com/5922349/watch-an-engine-rebuild-itself-in-this-3000+phot
o-stop+motion-video
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=377182#377182
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Problem on 912ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
You need to check the ignition grounds at the switch and at the ignition modules
and check all other wires at the modules plugs. If you loose 700 rpm it can't
be running smooth as you think.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422435#422435
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Damien Graham <dgraham7(at)TWCNY.RR.COM> |
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem on 912ULS |
- Max- Are you talking about a magneto test?- If so, you may have a dir
ty plug or bad wire on each circuit.=0A=0A-----------
-------------------------
-------------------------
-- Bill Sullivan=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From
: Max Cointe (Free) =0ATo: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Sunday, April 27, 2014 5:48 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Prob
(Free)" =0A=0AHi There all,=0A=0ACold start ok, run smoot
h @2500 rpm, when temp ok can run till 5800 rpm but=0Atest @3850 rpm fails
on EACH (same on one or the other) circuit alone :=0Aloose 700 RPM and runs
rough and not equilibrated. Back to a quasi smooth=0Arun when on both circ
===============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Problem on 912ULS |
Hi Bill and Roger Lee,
Thks both for your answers. As a matter of fact I just mixed and matched
the
plugs on cylinders 2 and 4 on the lower sparks. So on one mag whichever
it
was the cylinders 2 and 4 weren=92t lighted. So I have asked someone to
kick
my a.. after having reconnected everything right!
Have good flights, rgds
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn=92A=E9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
De : owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
william
sullivan
Envoy=E9 : dimanche 27 avril 2014 17:01
=C0 : rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: RotaxEngines-List: Problem on 912ULS
Max- Are you talking about a magneto test? If so, you may have a
dirty
plug or bad wire on each circuit.
Bill
Sullivan
_____
From: Max Cointe (Free) <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2014 5:48 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Problem on 912ULS
Hi There all,
Cold start ok, run smooth @2500 rpm, when temp ok can run till 5800 rpm
but
test @3850 rpm fails on EACH (same on one or the other) circuit alone :
loose 700 RPM and runs rough and not equilibrated. Back to a quasi
smooth
run when on both circuits!
Any ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List"
target="_bla//forums.matronics.com/" = -->
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Problem on 912ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
yep, that would do it.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422505#422505
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blinking Charge Light |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Problem solved! Pulled each fast-on terminal off the regulator and pushed it back
on again, cleaning the contact. Also cleaned the ground connection. All
is well. Thanks for the suggestions.
Jim & Heather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422558#422558
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rotax 377 freeair |
I being stupid as a hell bought an engine ,a rotax 377 that was used "less
tyhan 100 hrs" in a wind tunnel in a trackter configuration. I must say tha
t i had never seen a 377 and all i kneww was that they produced 35 hp and t
he general consensus was that the 377 was a good solid engine and that the
plane I was building would be very happy with it .i am building a KOlB Fire
fly- a pusher and i came to find out that everybody says that being a KOL
B it- would never work unless it had fan cooling!=0A------ My
question is has any one ever changed a freeair 377 or 447 to fan cooling ?
How many parts other than the fan and the cooling shrouds are there to cha
nge ? If any one has please lend me your experence . thanks in advance Chri
s=0A=0Ap.s. I also read somewhere online that the aluminum shrouds are no g
ood anybody know why?=0A=0A-=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pil
ot=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem on 912ULS |
is there anyone here=0A=0A=C2-=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider P
ilot=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly?=0AOn Sunday, April 27, 2014 1:
21 PM, Max Cointe (Free) wrote:=0A =0AHi Bill and Roger L
ee,=0A>=C2-=0A>Thksboth for your answers. As a matter of fact I just mixe
d and matched the plugs on cylinders 2 and 4 on the lower sparks. So on one
mag whichever it was the cylinders 2 and 4 weren=99t lighted. So I h
ave asked someone to kick my a.. after having =C2-reconnected everything
right!=0A>Have good flights, rgds=0A>=C2-=0A>Max=C2- Cointe=0A>mcointe@
free.fr=0A>F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear=0A>Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332
490 hours=0A>=C2-=0A>F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S =0A>Kit #27-2002
912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures=0A>=C2-=0A>De=C2-:owner-rotaxengines
-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics
.com] De la part de william sullivan=0A>Envoy=C3=A9=C2-: dimanche 27 avri
l 2014 17:01=0A>=C3=C2-: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Objet=C2
-: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Problem on 912ULS=0A>=C2-=0A>=C2- Max- Are
you talking about a magneto test?=C2- If so, you may have a dirty plug or
bad wire on each circuit.=0A>=0A>=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Bill Sullivan=0A>=C2-=0A>=C2-
=0A>=0A>________________________________=0A>=0A>From:Max Cointe (Free) =0A>To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent: Sunday, Apri
l 27, 2014 5:48 AM=0A>Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Problem on 912ULS=0A>=0A>
fr>=0A>=0A>Hi There all,=0A>=0A>Cold start ok, run smooth @2500 rpm, when t
emp ok can run till 5800 rpm but=0A>test @3850 rpm fails on EACH (same on o
ne or the other) circuit alone :=0A>loose 700 RPM and runs rough and not eq
uilibrated. Back to a quasi smooth=0A>run when on both circuits!=0A>Any ref
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List" target="_bla//f
orums.matronics.com/" ==C2- --> =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=C2-
=0A>=C2-=0A>=C2-=0A> =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2- - The RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -=0A>--> http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List=0A> =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -=0A>-
-> http://forums.matronics.com=0A> =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- - List Contribution Web Site -=0A>Thank y
ou for your generous support!=0A>=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- -Matt Dralle, Lis
============= =0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem on 912ULS |
Chris,=0A=0AYes, we're out here. =C2-I remember that you posted a questi
on a while back. =C2-And I remember that I didn't have an answer for you
at that time. =C2-Perhaps there were no other answers as well. =C2-Tr
y posting the question again and see if it helps.=0ABlue skies & tailwinds
,=0ABob Borger=0AEuropa XS Tri, Rotax 914 w/ Intercooler & Airmaster C/S P
rop=0ALittle Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming AEIO-320 EXP=0A3705 Lynchburg Dr
.=0ACorinth, TX 76208-5331=0AH: 940-497-2123=0AC: 817-992-1117=0A=0AOn May
08, 2014, at 08:23 AM, chris davis wrote:=0A=0Ais t
here anyone here=0A=C2-=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilot=0A
Disabled from crash building Firefly?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
Hi there all,
Oil pressure on the 912S fitted on my MCR 4S) is ever low, under 2 bars and
just over the red line... Is there a way to trim it?
BTW it is not much more on the 912S on my Europa, just above 3 bars.
Cheers,
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
rparigoris
Envoy: mercredi 4 juillet 2012 00:36
: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: RotaxEngines-List: I wish there was a Rotax 9XX video like this.
-->
I wish there was a 9XX video like this:
http://jalopnik.com/5922349/watch-an-engine-rebuild-itself-in-this-3000+phot
o-stop+motion-video
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=377182#377182
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
May be time to replace the oil pressure sending unit. I still hard mount
mine. They do not last long. One of these days I will remote mount and see
if I can get more hours out of it.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Hi there all,
Oil pressure on the 912S fitted on my MCR 4S) is ever low, under 2 bars and
just over the red line... Is there a way to trim it?
BTW it is not much more on the 912S on my Europa, just above 3 bars.
Cheers,
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil low pessure |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Max I had the same thing, turned out to be air in the system.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 8:15 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
>
> May be time to replace the oil pressure sending unit. I still hard mount
> mine. They do not last long. One of these days I will remote mount and
> see
> if I can get more hours out of it.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
> Hi there all,
>
> Oil pressure on the 912S fitted on my MCR 4S) is ever low, under 2 bars
> and
> just over the red line... Is there a way to trim it?
> BTW it is not much more on the 912S on my Europa, just above 3 bars.
> Cheers,
>
>
> Max Cointe
> mcointe(at)free.fr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil low pessure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
29 psi to 43 psi is within the guidelines, but anything below 40 psi seems a bit
low to be real. The number one cause for low readings is the sending unit. They
cost about $35.
Single pole sender:
http://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=360-004
Double pole sender:
http://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=360-430
The second cause is air in the oil sending line.
The other item that should be done is install the new oil pressure regulator cone,
spring and cap screw. It only takes about 5 min. and cost is around $75.
The old ball bearing can and will cause lower readings for some.
Never add shims unless you put an inline mechanical gauge in the oil line to test
the real pressure or like the majority of people will actually over pressure
the system because they never checked it and the readings were lying to them.
Volume is more important than pressure.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423505#423505
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil low pessure |
| From: | Nati Niv <n992dn(at)gmail.com> |
The first question I would ask myself is weather there is a real problem of
low oil pressure or is it a simply an indication problem. The way to verify
it is to (temporary) plumb a mechanical oil gauge using a T fitting and to
compare the readings of the Rotax provided sensor with the mechanical one.
Depending on the outcome of this test will be the diagnostic/corrections
actions
Nati
RANS S6S 912ULS,
Illinois
On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 8:27 AM, William Daniell <
wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote:
> Max I had the same thing, turned out to be air in the system.
> Will
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
>
> On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 8:15 AM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>> jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
>>
>> May be time to replace the oil pressure sending unit. I still hard mount
>> mine. They do not last long. One of these days I will remote mount and
>> see
>> if I can get more hours out of it.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII
>> Titus, Alabama
>>
>>
>> Hi there all,
>>
>> Oil pressure on the 912S fitted on my MCR 4S) is ever low, under 2 bars
>> and
>> just over the red line... Is there a way to trim it?
>> BTW it is not much more on the 912S on my Europa, just above 3 bars.
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>> Max Cointe
>> mcointe(at)free.fr
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> nes-List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
This looks like a case of "It was working until I fixed it"
Annual condition inspection; new plugs at 0.027-inches, carbmate showed exact balance,
Dyna Vibe gave engine smoothness like a turbine, cylinder differential
pressure almost perfect all cylinders, began using non-ethanol 91-octane gas,
no oil consumption, crossover fittings (hoses) all tight, cruise speed normal,
climb out at max throttle 5,000+ then over 5,100 after a few moments while still
over the runway.
Spark plug wires firmly attached
"Killing" A side ignition, mag drop averages 150 rpm
"Killing" B side ignition, mag drop averages 290 rpm, so it looks like a
problem with the A side ignition.
Next try will be new plugs (again) on top of cyl #1 & 2
new plugs (again) on bottom of cyl #4 & 3 to eliminate a
bad new plug.
Anything else to check?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423608#423608
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
What rpm are you doing the mag drop at?
Plugs are worth checking / replacing and gaps. Since you pulled the plug boots
off you may have inadvertently pulled the plug wire a little too much where it
goes into the boot. It wouldn't hurt to unscrew each one and trim the wire back
1/4" and then thread the boot back on.
I even think 150 is a little high if the rpm is 3500 and under. Average is 50-100.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423611#423611
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Roger,
I run up to 4,000 rpm and then 'kill' each circuit in turn.
I have never 'unscrewed' a plug boot...I assume I can hold the main wire and twist
on the 'plug' end that would connect to the top of the spark plug. I am picking
up 4 new plugs tomorrow and will gap and install...will try that plug wire
trimming and reattaching.
Thanks for the input Roger...I wish you were a bit closer, I would just fly down
to Tuscon and put the whole thing into your hands !
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423614#423614
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
John,
I had almost the exact same problem except the mag drop was about 350 rpm
on one side when checked at 4,000 rpm. What I found was that I had switched
the two top left plug wires. #2 went to #4 plug & #4 went to #2 plug. The surprise
was that it ran as well as it did with the plug wires reversed. Some idiot
(me) had mismarked the cylinders when pulling the wires off.
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423628#423628
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
Hi There All,
Did the same as the length of the wire pushed me to switch them. On two mags
at least all cylinders are lighted at the right time, but with one mag one
cylinder is not lighted at the right time...
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
krazydoc33
Envoy: vendredi 23 mai 2014 10:29
: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS
-->
John,
I had almost the exact same problem except the mag drop was about 350
rpm on one side when checked at 4,000 rpm. What I found was that I had
switched the two top left plug wires. #2 went to #4 plug & #4 went to #2
plug. The surprise was that it ran as well as it did with the plug wires
reversed. Some idiot (me) had mismarked the cylinders when pulling the wires
off.
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423628#423628
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
John,
I had a similar problem one time so I walked down the airport with my new
plugs to a friends hanger. He had a spark plug "bomb" checker as part of his
Champion spark plug cleaner unit. We checked the new plugs and sure enough,
one of them would not fire under air pressure. I threw that one in the bin
checked another and soon I was "back in business." So, you might have a bad
"new" plug.
Dick Maddux
912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi All
Rotax 914 warning lights. TCU switch ON.
I have a Europa 914,
Red warning light ?!!!!!
Amber warning light ?!!!!
What are they for, What should I know about them.
Many thanks.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423638#423638
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Alan,=0A=0AIf you don't have copies of the various 914 manuals, go to Rota
x-Owner.com and download them.=0A=0ARotax Operators Manual, Section 4.4) C
aution lamps -- Page 4-4 Subsections 4.4.1-4.4.3 describes the illuminatio
n of the red and orange warning lamps and what the meaning is.=0A=0ASectio
n 3.4) Engine start -- page 3-7 Lamps describes the self test illumination
on start.=0ABlue skies & tailwinds,=0ABob Borger=0AEuropa XS Tri, Rotax 9
14 w/ Intercooler & Airmaster C/S Prop=0ALittle Toot Sport Biplane, Lycomi
ng AEIO-320 EXP=0A3705 Lynchburg Dr.=0ACorinth, TX 76208-5331=0AH: 940-497
-2123=0AC: 817-992-1117=0A=0AOn May 23, 2014, at 08:56 AM, Alan Carter wrote:=0A=0A-- =C2- =C2-> RotaxEngines-List me
ssage posted by: "Alan Carter" =0A=0AHi All=0ARotax 914 warning lights. TCU switch ON.=0AI hav
e a Europa 914, =0ARed warning light ?!!!!! =0AAmber warning light ?!!!!=0A
=0AWhat are they for, What should I know about them.=0AMany thanks.=0AAlan
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.c
= -- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rot
====================0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Bob.
Hope you are well, nice weather here in the UK.
Well ," Blinking" lot to remember.
I will make up a small emergency check list for that lot.
Many thanks,
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423653#423653
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Bob.
Warning Lamps.
I have a small plastic reservoir for the engine coolant, I take it the unit is
a sealed radiator system, but I have noticed over a period of time the level has
gone down a little, is this normal.
Also why is there not a warning light which illuminates if the coolant level
is getting low.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423661#423661
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
plugs can be bad out of the box. I have had two over the years.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423669#423669
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
I found all plugs on the A side very black and sooty. Had perhaps 3 or 4 hours
total running time on them.
I trimmed the spark plug wires back 1/4-inch and reinstalled the boots, and made
absolutely certain the boots were correctly and well seated on the new spark
plugs that I just purchased and set to 0.027.
Have not yet run the engine..my time at the airport is very limited because I am
a care taker for my invalid wife, and I can only 'get away' for a few hours
at a time...tomorrow I hope to run the plane and see if I made any progress.
I appreciate the help I have been give more than you might expect.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423673#423673
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Hi Alan,
Reasonably well over here. On the final stages of getting my Europa back in the
air after the fuel tank replacement. Have to do some engine ground run tests
tomorrow morning. Positive tests and weather permitting I might have it back
in the air on Sunday. Weather may go to poop on Sunday though. And is certain
forecast for poop on Monday. And I depart for Chennai, India on Tuesday.
Will be there for almost 4 weeks on business. Id like to have the Europa ready
to fly when I get back so I can have some fun and do some cross country travel.
Yes, Blinking lot to remember. Mostly remember that if they come on in flight
its a bad thing.
Not a bad idea to add to the emergency check list either.
As to the coolant levels. Yes, they seem to go down over time. Im not sure why.
Give me some recent flight time starting in late June and well see what we
come up with. As to a warning light for coolant level, I guess thatd be your
coolant or CHT temperature indicators.
Enjoy the good weather while you can!
Best,
Bob
On May 23, 2014, at 12:58 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
Hi Bob.
Hope you are well, nice weather here in the UK.
Well ," Blinking" lot to remember.
I will make up a small emergency check list for that lot.
Many thanks,
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Ivor Phillips <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
I fitted a small float to my expansion bottle wired to a led on my panel, and pleased
to say it's performed well over the last five years,
A couple of years ago one of my water bleed screws developed a leak and it gave
me a heads up earlier than a high water temperature would have done, so worth
doing IMO,
The Rotax900 series are renowned for loosing a bit of coolant from the water pump
drain hole if left inactive for any length of time,
Ivor Phillips
Sent from my iPad
> On 23 May 2014, at 22:13, Robert Borger wrote:
>
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> Reasonably well over here. On the final stages of getting my Europa back in
the air after the fuel tank replacement. Have to do some engine ground run tests
tomorrow morning. Positive tests and weather permitting I might have it back
in the air on Sunday. Weather may go to poop on Sunday though. And is certain
forecast for poop on Monday. And I depart for Chennai, India on Tuesday.
Will be there for almost 4 weeks on business. Id like to have the Europa ready
to fly when I get back so I can have some fun and do some cross country travel.
>
> Yes, Blinking lot to remember. Mostly remember that if they come on in flight
its a bad thing.
>
> Not a bad idea to add to the emergency check list either.
>
> As to the coolant levels. Yes, they seem to go down over time. Im not sure
why. Give me some recent flight time starting in late June and well see what
we come up with. As to a warning light for coolant level, I guess thatd be your
coolant or CHT temperature indicators.
>
> Enjoy the good weather while you can!
>
> Best,
> Bob
>
>
> On May 23, 2014, at 12:58 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bob.
> Hope you are well, nice weather here in the UK.
> Well ," Blinking" lot to remember.
> I will make up a small emergency check list for that lot.
> Many thanks,
> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
The mystery deepens
I ran the engine after new plugs on the A side and now the problem has shifted
to the B side.
I was getting too much rpm drop when the B side was turned off, now the excessive
rpm drop occurs when the A side is turned off.
First mag drop checks at 3500 showed 70 rpm drop running with the B side only operating,
and 170 rpm drop when the A side only was operating.
Then at 4,000 rpm the first mag checks showed a rpm drop of 160 and 130 on A and
B side. I thought it was fixed...but....
Subsequent mag checks consistently showed the when the A side was killed the rpm
dropped an average of 385 rpm (4 tries), and when the B side was killed the
average of 4 tries showed a drop of 120 rpm.
This switching of excessive mag drop from the A side to the B side seems
to indicate some sort of bad connection or other intermittent fault.
Its interesting to note that the first tries showed normal and acceptable rpm drops
as the mags were 'killed' but subsequent tries showed bad drops on the opposite
side from yesterday's trials.
I am really confused now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423744#423744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
I have been really thinking about this problem, and recalled that two years ago
I had a situation where I was getting serious rpm drops during mag checks. A
local A&P and an experienced RV builder were helping me. We noticed that if the
top cowling was off everything was fine. When fully assembled with the top cowling
back on, the mag drop was seriously down again.
I found an exhaust pipe slightly out of the 'socket' on the muffler. When fully
cowled the engine was 'sucking' up exhaust fumes, and naturally the engine didn't
work well. With the top cowling off there was plenty of free air and the
engine worked fine.
I am going to pull the cowling again and closely inspect for possible exhaust leaks.
Anything else you can suggest?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423749#423749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Ivor> I fitted a small float to my expansion bottle wired to a led on my panel
Hi Ivor,
Do you have a reference for the part you used for the float?
Regards,
sacha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Goodings <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/14 |
Subject: Re: Blue coolant tubing for Rotax 912S
From: John Goodings <goodings(at)yorku.ca>
We need to replace the large thin-walled blue coolant tubing on our Rotax
912S. I should be grateful if someone can tell me (a) the diameter; (b)
the length we need, (c) possible suppliers, and (d) a Canadian supplier if
that is possible. Our CH601HD is in Ottawa (Carp), and I have to order
the tubing from Toronto. All I can recall is that this tubing has a
rather special diameter, and is rather hard to find. Thanks for your
help.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Ottawa/Carp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Goodings <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 05/24/14 |
Subject: Re: Blue coolant tubing for Rotax 912S
From: John Goodings <goodings(at)yorku.ca>
We need to replace the large thin-walled blue coolant tubing on our Rotax
912S. I should be grateful if someone can tell me (a) the diameter; (b)
the length we need, (c) possible suppliers, and (d) a Canadian supplier if
that is possible. Our CH601HD is in Ottawa (Carp), and I have to order
the tubing from Toronto. All I can recall is that this tubing has a
rather special diameter, and is rather hard to find. Thanks for your
help.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Ottawa/Carp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
My hope of finding a easy fix to my mag drop problem faded when no exhaust leaks
were found.. bad mag drop with or without cowling on/off.
Next effort will be to recheck carb balance in case that somehow got screwed up.
('tho I don't really expect this is the problem, but everything I can think
of needs to be done !)
Problem was on A side ignition, then switched to B side, and is staying on the
B side being the problem. Problem exists if mag run up is done at 3500 or 4000,
and same results if reading an MGL tach I have installed instead of the Dynon
D-180's tach.)
Failing in this, I guess the only thing left to try is to replace plugs and trim
plug wires a bit on the remaining 4 plugs on which I have not done this.
/John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423779#423779
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hello Ivor.
Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is closed.
I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a good idea,
is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
Can you give some info on this.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Ivor Phillips <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
Hi alan
I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax supplied, I
put her midway so the level would need to drop to minimum before the sensor triggered,
I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used from my records and let
you no,
It's a simple wiring job once you are through the firewall,
Regards
Ivor
Sent from my iPad
> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter" wrote:
>
>
> Hello Ivor.
> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is closed.
> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a good idea,
is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
> Can you give some info on this.
> Regards.
> Alan
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the
fluid is in the bottle as long as the level in the header
tank is OK, and I assume you check that frequently as part
of your preparation for flight. The bottle is just there
to make any fluid pushed out by thermal expansion
recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and complication?
regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
Ivor Phillips wrote:
>
>
> Hi alan
> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle
>that Rotax supplied, I put her midway so the level would
>need to drop to minimum before the sensor triggered,
> I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used
>from my records and let you no,
> It's a simple wiring job once you are through the
>firewall,
> Regards
> Ivor
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Ivor.
>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know
>>Manston is closed.
>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have
>>done, sounds a good idea, is there something you can
>>drill and attach to the filler cap.
>> Can you give some info on this.
>> Regards.
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Un/Subscription,
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
I doubt seriously your uneven mag drop is caused by your carbs. It most
likely is an ignition problem. I have dealt with similar problems with my old
(mid 90's) 912 UL.
During my last event I "bit the bullet" and bought new ignition wires and
caps when I was having bad mag drops. This cured the problem. Now in my case
the wires/caps were old and probably needed replacement anyway so I didn't
feel too bad about it. I was able to save on the wire /plugs thru online
vendors.
I think if you clip the wires or search out a bad plug (bomb check
them),you will find your problem.
My opinion
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
All wires should have been trimmed. All plug gaps re-checked. I would do both of
these first.
Black sooty plugs under 3500 rpm can be very normal and can move to different plugs
at times and is different for every engine.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423804#423804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
Dick,
I agree with you. The carbs are not likely to be my mag drop problem. Prior
to a lot of work during the annual condx inspection things were fine. Some
thing I probably did is causing my problem, and I am at a loss for what it
might be, so I am going back over everything I did to try to eliminate any
remote possibility. Thanks for your input.
John
----- Origin.al Message -----
From: Catz631(at)aol.com
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS
I doubt seriously your uneven mag drop is caused by your carbs. It most l
ikely is an ignition problem. I have dealt with similar problems with my ol
d (mid 90's) 912 UL.
During my last event I "bit the bullet" and bought new ignition wires and
caps when I was having bad mag drops. This cured the problem. Now in my ca
se the wires/caps were old and probably needed replacement anyway so I didn
't feel too bad about it. I was able to save on the wire /plugs thru online
vendors.
I think if you clip the wires or search out a bad plug (bomb check them)
,you will find your problem.
My opinion
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
912UL
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protec
tion is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Thanks, Roger...have trimmed the A side, and doing the B side this morning and
going over the carb balance even tho I doubt it is involved, but the mag drop
was OK prior to a lot of work during the annual condx inspection, so I have to
think it was something I did.
I still may have to fly to Tuscon and drop it into your hands !!!
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423806#423806
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Kelley <thekelleygroup(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
Please remove me for this list!!!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 26, 2014, at 8:21 AM, "JohnF" wrote:
>
> Dick,
>
> I agree with you. The carbs are not likely to be my mag drop problem. Prio
r to a lot of work during the annual condx inspection things were fine. Some
thing I probably did is causing my problem, and I am at a loss for what it m
ight be, so I am going back over everything I did to try to eliminate any re
mote possibility. Thanks for your input.
>
> John
> ----- Origin.al Message -----
> From: Catz631(at)aol.com
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 6:40 AM
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS
>
> I doubt seriously your uneven mag drop is caused by your carbs. It most li
kely is an ignition problem. I have dealt with similar problems with my old (
mid 90's) 912 UL.
> During my last event I "bit the bullet" and bought new ignition wires and c
aps when I was having bad mag drops. This cured the problem. Now in my case t
he wires/caps were old and probably needed replacement anyway so I didn't fe
el too bad about it. I was able to save on the wire /plugs thru online vendo
rs.
> I think if you clip the wires or search out a bad plug (bomb check them),
you will find your problem.
> My opinion
> Dick Maddux
> Fox 4
> 912UL
>
>
> ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
> ics.com
> .matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus prote
ction is active.
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | Pete Christensen <pchristensen10(at)austin.rr.com> |
Kelly, Go here.
http://www.matronics.com/subscription/
> On May 26, 2014, at 8:23 AM, Richard Kelley wrote
:
>
> Please remove me for this list!!!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 26, 2014, at 8:21 AM, "JohnF" wrote:
>>
>> Dick,
>>
>> I agree with you. The carbs are not likely to be my mag drop problem. Pri
or to a lot of work during the annual condx inspection things were fine. Som
ething I probably did is causing my problem, and I am at a loss for what it m
ight be, so I am going back over everything I did to try to eliminate any re
mote possibility. Thanks for your input.
>>
>> John
>> ----- Origin.al Message -----
>> From: Catz631(at)aol.com
>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 6:40 AM
>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS
>>
>> I doubt seriously your uneven mag drop is caused by your carbs. It most l
ikely is an ignition problem. I have dealt with similar problems with my old
(mid 90's) 912 UL.
>> During my last event I "bit the bullet" and bought new ignition wires and
caps when I was having bad mag drops. This cured the problem. Now in my cas
e the wires/caps were old and probably needed replacement anyway so I didn't
feel too bad about it. I was able to save on the wire /plugs thru online ve
ndors.
>> I think if you clip the wires or search out a bad plug (bomb check them)
,you will find your problem.
>> My opinion
>> Dick Maddux
>> Fox 4
>> 912UL
>>
>>
>> ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> ics.com
>> .matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus prot
ection is active.
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John,
Easy ways just don't work! Well, they do, but only for those people that
won the lottery.
In simple terms, even if you had a exhaust leak, it very we'll Would Not
give you
a
Mag drop. Nor would
an
out of tune Carb. Nor would the point of running With or Without the
cowling on. That logic would follow checking the air pressure in your
tires for the Mag drop!
IF the Mag drop was good on one Mag, you are STILL using the SAME Carb for
the Good Mag as for the Bad Mag
, no reason why it would change for the second Mag
... Do ya see the logic there?
Next is the Exhaust System. If there was an Exhaust leak, it
would depend where the leak was... An exhaust valve leak would leak on
either Mag so No difference in Mag check
with this scenario. If it was a pipe or muffler leaking it would again
be the same leak no matter which Mag you were on,
so No difference in Mag check
with this scenario either.
This is the way you go about checking out a Mag Drop Problem:
1 - Clean the plugs.
2 - TRIPLE check the Timing.
3 - Check the condition AND resistance of the spark plug wires.
4 - Did you ever DROP a spark plug? If so - Replace it, don't think about
it, do it. OR, test it on a Pressure-Voltage Spark Plug checking station.
Those are your ONLY options when it come to plugs.
5 - This is a bit more difficult - Check the Voltage coming out of your
Mag. You will need a High Voltage Probe Volt Meter, not many people have
them.
6 - Question: Do you get a Mag drop at BOTH low RPM and high RPM? If so,
then go back to #1 and run through the steps... 1 thru 5. If it only
happens at High RPM then there could be a voltage breakdown of a component
and an overhaul is needed. Problem being - You have a Rotax and both Low
and High are both High when you consider the small delta between the two
ranges. SO... What Next? SWAP out the Mag with one of known GOOD working
condition.
These are your options. Go through the steps and I'm positive you will
find the problem.
Barry
On Sunday, May 25, 2014, JohnF wrote:
>
> My hope of finding a easy fix to my mag drop problem faded when no exhaust
> leaks were found.. bad mag drop with or without cowling on/off.
>
> Next effort will be to recheck carb balance in case that somehow got
> screwed up. ('tho I don't really expect this is the problem, but everything
> I can think of needs to be done !)
>
> Problem was on A side ignition, then switched to B side, and is staying on
> the B side being the problem. Problem exists if mag run up is done at 3500
> or 4000, and same results if reading an MGL tach I have installed instead
> of the Dynon D-180's tach.)
>
> Failing in this, I guess the only thing left to try is to replace plugs
> and trim plug wires a bit on the remaining 4 plugs on which I have not done
> this.
>
> /John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423779#423779
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
John
I had a similar problem, it was a bad connection in the bundle of wires
that sits on top of the engine
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 8:11 AM, JohnF wrote:
> Dick,
>
> I agree with you. The carbs are not likely to be my mag drop problem.
> Prior to a lot of work during the annual condx inspection things were fine.
> Something I probably did is causing my problem, and I am at a loss for what
> it might be, so I am going back over everything I did to try to eliminate
> any remote possibility. Thanks for your input.
>
> John
>
> ----- Origin.al Message -----
> *From:* Catz631(at)aol.com
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, May 26, 2014 6:40 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RotaxEngines-List: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS
>
> I doubt seriously your uneven mag drop is caused by your carbs. It most
> likely is an ignition problem. I have dealt with similar problems with my
> old (mid 90's) 912 UL.
> During my last event I "bit the bullet" and bought new ignition wires and
> caps when I was having bad mag drops. This cured the problem. Now in my
> case the wires/caps were old and probably needed replacement anyway so I
> didn't feel too bad about it. I was able to save on the wire /plugs thru
> online vendors.
> I think if you clip the wires or search out a bad plug (bomb check
> them),you will find your problem.
> My opinion
> Dick Maddux
> Fox 4
> 912UL
>
> *
>
> ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
> ics.com <http://ics.com>
> .matronics.com/contribution <http://matronics.com/contribution>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------
> <http://www.avast.com/>
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus<http://www.avast.com/>protection is active.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Progress on the mag drop !
Taking suggestions from you folks, I trimmed back the plug wires on the ignition
side that I had not yet done.
As expected, mag balance was perfect.
As to exhaust leak...prior experience has shown me that a serious leak, one pipe
1/2 way out of the 'socket' on the muffler...definitely and repeatedly showed
that mag drop was OK with the top cowling off, but bad with it one. An A&P and
an experienced builder working with me saw this at least three times before
I figured out what the problem was. Fixing the exhaust pipe into the muffler
fixed everything.
As to today....the mag drop, average of 10 'runs' is now only 14 rpm difference
between A and B sides. I still am not happy with the drop, its 227 rpm drop on
A side, and 241 rpm drop on B side. I have buttoned up the cowling and will
fly tomorrow, weather permitting, and run the plane hard for about 30 minutes
and see if that changes anything.
My guess now is that the wire into the boot on cyl #4, bottom, was too far back
in; trimming it as Roger and others suggested fixed the large difference in
mag drops.
My appreciation for all the help.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423817#423817
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uneven Mag Drop 912 ULS |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John,
Easy ways just don't work! Well, they do, but only for those people that
won the lottery.
In simple terms, even if you had a exhaust leak, it very we'll Would Not
give you
a
Mag drop. Nor would
an
out of tune Carb. Nor would the point of running With or Without the
cowling on. That logic would follow checking the air pressure in your
tires for the Mag drop!
IF the Mag drop was good on one Mag, you are STILL using the SAME Carb for
the Good Mag as for the Bad Mag
, no reason why it would change for the second Mag
... Do ya see the logic there?
Next is the Exhaust System. If there was an Exhaust leak, it
would depend where the leak was... An exhaust valve leak would leak on
either Mag so No difference in Mag check
with this scenario. If it was a pipe or muffler leaking it would again be
the same leak no matter which Mag you were on,
so No difference in Mag check
with this scenario either.
This is the way you go about checking out a Mag Drop Problem:
1 - Clean the plugs.
2 - TRIPLE check the Timing.
3 - Check the condition AND resistance of the spark plug wires.
4 - Did you ever DROP a spark plug? If so - Replace it, don't think about
it, do it. OR, test it on a Pressure-Voltage Spark Plug checking station.
Those are your ONLY options when it come to plugs.
5 - This is a bit more difficult - Check the Voltage coming out of your
Mag. You will need a High Voltage Probe Volt Meter, not many people have
them.
6 - Question: Do you get a Mag drop at BOTH low RPM and high RPM? If so,
then go back to #1 and run through the steps... 1 thru 5. If it only
happens at High RPM then there could be a voltage breakdown of a component
and an overhaul is needed. Problem being - You have a Rotax and both Low
and High are both High when you consider the small delta between the two
ranges. SO... What Next? SWAP out the Mag with one of known GOOD working
condition.
These are your options. Go through the steps and I'm positive you will
find the problem.
Barry
On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 2:07 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
> Progress on the mag drop !
>
> Taking suggestions from you folks, I trimmed back the plug wires on the
> ignition side that I had not yet done.
>
> As expected, mag balance was perfect.
>
> As to exhaust leak...prior experience has shown me that a serious leak,
> one pipe 1/2 way out of the 'socket' on the muffler...definitely and
> repeatedly showed that mag drop was OK with the top cowling off, but bad
> with it one. An A&P and an experienced builder working with me saw this at
> least three times before I figured out what the problem was. Fixing the
> exhaust pipe into the muffler fixed everything.
>
> As to today....the mag drop, average of 10 'runs' is now only 14 rpm
> difference between A and B sides. I still am not happy with the drop, its
> 227 rpm drop on A side, and 241 rpm drop on B side. I have buttoned up the
> cowling and will fly tomorrow, weather permitting, and run the plane hard
> for about 30 minutes and see if that changes anything.
>
> My guess now is that the wire into the boot on cyl #4, bottom, was too far
> back in; trimming it as Roger and others suggested fixed the large
> difference in mag drops.
>
> My appreciation for all the help.
>
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423817#423817
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Ivor Phillips <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/ connections developed
a leak when airborne you would be unaware until the level dropped below
the pressure cap bottle,
Once it had done so it would effectively stop circulating through the radiator
and your temperature would start climbing upwards,
The sensor is a couple of grams at most and IMO would give me a heads up long before
it got critical,
My expansion bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be
seen without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01. Website
http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-overview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
Regards
Ivor
Sent from my iPad
> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce" wrote:
>
>
> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid is in the bottle
as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I assume you check that
frequently as part of your preparation for flight. The bottle is just there
to make any fluid pushed out by thermal expansion recoverable as I see it. Why
add weight and complication? regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>> Hi alan
>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax supplied,
I put her midway so the level would need to drop to minimum before the sensor
triggered,
>> I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used from my records and let
you no,
>> It's a simple wiring job once you are through the firewall,
>> Regards
>> Ivor
>> Sent from my iPad
>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter" wrote:
>>> Hello Ivor.
>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is closed.
>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a good idea,
is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>> Regards.
>>> Alan
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>> Un/Subscription,
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> Forums!
>> Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Ivor Phillips a crit :
>
> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/ connections
developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until the level dropped below
the pressure cap bottle,
Ivor and all,
In my opinion, monitoring the coolant *pressure* would be preferable,
since pressure would be more closely related to the primary cause -leak
in the circuit - than the consequence - low coolant level.
Be prepared for some additional head-scratching, like is always the case
when you monitor a new parameter.
One word of caution : anytime one opens the pressure cap of the
expansion tank, one breaks the syphon, so it's not the best way to check
the coolant level. Better monitor the level in the translucent overflow
bottle, without disturbing the coolant circuit.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would
guess that a leaking or burst hose will let fluid out and
air out of/in to the radiator system without producing
sufficient suction to empty out the overflow bottle, so
that you could boil without your level sensor saying
anything. On the other hand boiling the coolant is
something that is very noticeable in air - you get blue
fluid all over the screen - experienced when I was trying
to do a 5 min full power climb to satisfy the LAA with one
of my early model props.!
Regards, David
Ivor Phillips wrote:
>
>
> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of
>your hoses/ connections developed a leak when airborne
>you would be unaware until the level dropped below the
>pressure cap bottle,
> Once it had done so it would effectively stop
>circulating through the radiator and your temperature
>would start climbing upwards,
> The sensor is a couple of grams at most and IMO would
>give me a heads up long before it got critical,
> My expansion bottle is centre of the firewall as high as
>possible so cannot be seen without removing the top cowl,
>I of course visually check it but on a long flight it
>nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
>For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS
>10 A01. Website
>
> http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-overview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
>
> Regards
> Ivor
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce"
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level
>>the fluid is in the bottle as long as the level in the
>>header tank is OK, and I assume you check that frequently
>>as part of your preparation for flight. The bottle is
>>just there to make any fluid pushed out by thermal
>>expansion recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and
>>complication? regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>
>>
>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi alan
>>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle
>>>that Rotax supplied, I put her midway so the level would
>>>need to drop to minimum before the sensor triggered,
>>> I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used
>>>from my records and let you no,
>>> It's a simple wiring job once you are through the
>>>firewall,
>>> Regards
>>> Ivor
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hello Ivor.
>>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know
>>>>Manston is closed.
>>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have
>>>>done, sounds a good idea, is there something you can
>>>>drill and attach to the filler cap.
>>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>>> Regards.
>>>> Alan
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>> Un/Subscription,
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>> Forums!
>>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Un/Subscription,
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Many Thanks All.
Ivan thanks for your link.
I would think with a small leak which could occur in flight or a leak the occurs
when warming up and stops when the engine is hot would take coolant from the
reservoir, as you can not see the reservoir with the cowlings on I think it is
a nice idea to have a warning light as its so simple to install. Myself I would
like to find a Small sensor probe that I could drill a hole in the reservoir
filler cap and fix this sensor probe. Anybody know of such a think,? Can always
find a new cap.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423875#423875
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 only putting out 12.5 volts |
| From: | "dsingleton" <dsingleton(at)aol.com> |
My grand Rapids unit shows 12.5 volts. Goes down to 12.3 with radio and transponder
on. landing light or strobes take it below 12.0. Installed new regulator(
Kawasaki) and new battery. Still persist. Any Ideas ??
--------
Dennis Singleton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423891#423891
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Ivor Phillips <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my Expansion bottle
is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a positive head of pressure
back to the filler cap,
Twice I have had small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring
clamp type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted,
Both times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became critical,
I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react quickly enough
but thats were my water temperature sender with voice activated Dynon shouting
high temperature in my ears would get my complete attention,
Regards
ivor
Sent from my iPad
> On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce" wrote:
>
>
> Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that a leaking or
burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the radiator system without
producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow bottle, so that you
could boil without your level sensor saying anything. On the other hand boiling
the coolant is something that is very noticeable in air - you get blue fluid
all over the screen - experienced when I was trying to do a 5 min full power
climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early model props.!
> Regards, David
>
>
> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/ connections
developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until the level dropped
below the pressure cap bottle,
>> Once it had done so it would effectively stop circulating through the radiator
and your temperature would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple of
grams at most and IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical,
My expansion bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be
seen without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
>> For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01. Website
>> http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-overview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
>> Regards
>> Ivor
>> Sent from my iPad
>>> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce" wrote:
>>> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid is in the
bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I assume you check that
frequently as part of your preparation for flight. The bottle is just there
to make any fluid pushed out by thermal expansion recoverable as I see it. Why
add weight and complication? regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>>> Hi alan
>>>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax supplied,
I put her midway so the level would need to drop to minimum before the sensor
triggered,
>>>> I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used from my records and
let you no,
>>>> It's a simple wiring job once you are through the firewall,
>>>> Regards
>>>> Ivor
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter" wrote:
>>>>> Hello Ivor.
>>>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is closed.
>>>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a good
idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
>>>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>>>> Regards.
>>>>> Alan
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>>> Un/Subscription,
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>> Forums!
>>>> Admin.
>> Un/Subscription,
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> Forums!
>> Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 only putting out 12.5 volts |
Dennis, have you checked a direct voltage at the battery
to compare? My newly fitted MGL EMS showed only about
11volts, but the battery voltage was 12.9 and there was an
adjustment in the set up program that allowed me to make
the two read identically.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
"dsingleton" wrote:
>
>
> My grand Rapids unit shows 12.5 volts. Goes down to 12.3
>with radio and transponder on. landing light or strobes
>take it below 12.0. Installed new regulator( Kawasaki)
>and new battery. Still persist. Any Ideas ??
>
> --------
> Dennis Singleton
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423891#423891
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Un/Subscription,
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 only putting out 12.5 volts |
David Joyce a crit :
>
>
>
> Dennis, have you checked a direct voltage at the battery to compare?
> My newly fitted MGL EMS showed only about 11volts, but the battery
> voltage was 12.9 and there was an adjustment in the set up program
> that allowed me to make the two read identically.
+1
Also please give additional information :
- Was your electrical system performing well before ?
- Or is it a new or modified installation, etc. ?
- Is a description of schematics of your power circuit available ?
- Have you checked that your actual installation is in accordance with
the intended schematics ?
- Did you check every connection ?
- Etc..
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | Joel Milloway <dirtfly7(at)yahoo.com> |
What if the overflow bottle was mounted on the cockpit side of the firewall where
it was visible at all times?
On May 28, 2014, at 2:04 AM, Ivor Phillips wrote:
>
> I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my Expansion bottle
is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a positive head of pressure
back to the filler cap,
> Twice I have had small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring
clamp type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted,
> Both times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became critical,
> I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react quickly enough
but thats were my water temperature sender with voice activated Dynon shouting
high temperature in my ears would get my complete attention,
>
> Regards
> ivor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that a leaking
or burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the radiator system without
producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow bottle, so that you
could boil without your level sensor saying anything. On the other hand boiling
the coolant is something that is very noticeable in air - you get blue fluid
all over the screen - experienced when I was trying to do a 5 min full power
climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early model props.!
>> Regards, David
>>
>>
>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/ connections
developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until the level dropped
below the pressure cap bottle,
>>> Once it had done so it would effectively stop circulating through the radiator
and your temperature would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple
of grams at most and IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical,
My expansion bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be
seen without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
>>> For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01. Website
>>> http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-overview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
>>> Regards
>>> Ivor
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce" wrote:
>>>> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid is in the
bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I assume you check
that frequently as part of your preparation for flight. The bottle is just there
to make any fluid pushed out by thermal expansion recoverable as I see it.
Why add weight and complication? regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>>>> Hi alan
>>>>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax supplied,
I put her midway so the level would need to drop to minimum before the sensor
triggered,
>>>>> I will try and turn up the type of float sensor I used from my records and
let you no,
>>>>> It's a simple wiring job once you are through the firewall,
>>>>> Regards
>>>>> Ivor
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter" wrote:
>>>>>> Hello Ivor.
>>>>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is closed.
>>>>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a good
idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
>>>>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>>>>> Regards.
>>>>>> Alan
>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>>>> Un/Subscription,
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>>> Forums!
>>>>> Admin.
>>> Un/Subscription,
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>> Forums!
>>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
When the fluid boils the cockpit could be filled with steam. That would
certainly get your attention!
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Milloway
Sent: 31 May 2014 06:20
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
-->
What if the overflow bottle was mounted on the cockpit side of the firewall
where it was visible at all times?
On May 28, 2014, at 2:04 AM, Ivor Phillips
wrote:
> -->
>
> I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my
> Expansion bottle is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a
> positive head of pressure back to the filler cap, Twice I have had
> small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring clamp
> type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted, Both
> times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became critical,
> I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react
> quickly enough but thats were my water temperature sender with voice
> activated Dynon shouting high temperature in my ears would get my
> complete attention,
>
> Regards
> ivor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce"
wrote:
>>
>> -->
>>
>> Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that a
leaking or burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the radiator
system without producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow
bottle, so that you could boil without your level sensor saying anything. On
the other hand boiling the coolant is something that is very noticeable in
air - you get blue fluid all over the screen - experienced when I was trying
to do a 5 min full power climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early model
props.!
>> Regards, David
>>
>>
>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>> -->
>>> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/
>>> connections developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until
the level dropped below the pressure cap bottle, Once it had done so it
would effectively stop circulating through the radiator and your temperature
would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple of grams at most and
IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical, My expansion
bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be seen
without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
>>> For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01.
Website
>>> http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-o
>>> verview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
>>> Regards
>>> Ivor
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce"
wrote:
>>>> -->
>>>> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid is
>>>> in the bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I
>>>> assume you check that frequently as part of your preparation for
flight. The bottle is just there to make any fluid pushed out by thermal
expansion recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and complication? regards,
wrote:
>>>>> -->
>>>>> Hi alan
>>>>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax
>>>>> supplied, I put her midway so the level would need to drop to
>>>>> minimum before the sensor triggered, I will try and turn up the
>>>>> type of float sensor I used from my records and let you no, It's a
>>>>> simple wiring job once you are through the firewall, Regards Ivor
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
wrote:
>>>>>> -->
>>>>>> Hello Ivor.
>>>>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is
closed.
>>>>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a
good idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler cap.
>>>>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>>>>> Regards.
>>>>>> Alan
>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>>>> Un/Subscription,
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>>> Forums!
>>>>> Admin.
>>> Un/Subscription,
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>> Forums!
>>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joel Milloway <dirtfly7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Thats the whole point right :)
On May 31, 2014, at 1:46 AM, Brian Davies
wrote:
>
> When the fluid boils the cockpit could be filled with steam. That
would
> certainly get your attention!
>
> Regards
>
> Brian Davies
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Joel
> Milloway
> Sent: 31 May 2014 06:20
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
>
> -->
>
> What if the overflow bottle was mounted on the cockpit side of the
firewall
> where it was visible at all times?
> On May 28, 2014, at 2:04 AM, Ivor Phillips
> wrote:
>
>> -->
>>
>> I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my
>> Expansion bottle is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a
>> positive head of pressure back to the filler cap, Twice I have had
>> small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring clamp
>> type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted, Both
>> times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became critical,
>> I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react
>> quickly enough but thats were my water temperature sender with voice
>> activated Dynon shouting high temperature in my ears would get my
>> complete attention,
>>
>> Regards
>> ivor
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce"
> wrote:
>>>
>>> -->
>>>
>>> Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that a
> leaking or burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the
radiator
> system without producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow
> bottle, so that you could boil without your level sensor saying
anything. On
> the other hand boiling the coolant is something that is very
noticeable in
> air - you get blue fluid all over the screen - experienced when I was
trying
> to do a 5 min full power climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early
model
> props.!
>>> Regards, David
>>>
>>>
>>> Ivor Phillips wrote:
>>>> -->
>>>> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/
>>>> connections developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware
until
> the level dropped below the pressure cap bottle, Once it had done so
it
> would effectively stop circulating through the radiator and your
temperature
> would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple of grams at most
and
> IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical, My expansion
> bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be seen
> without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a
long
> flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
>>>> For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01.
> Website
>>>>
http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-o
>>>> verview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
>>>> Regards
>>>> Ivor
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce"
> wrote:
>>>>> -->
>>>>> Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid
is
>>>>> in the bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I
>>>>> assume you check that frequently as part of your preparation for
> flight. The bottle is just there to make any fluid pushed out by
thermal
> expansion recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and complication?
regards,
> wrote:
>>>>>> -->
>>>>>> Hi alan
>>>>>> I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that
Rotax
>>>>>> supplied, I put her midway so the level would need to drop to
>>>>>> minimum before the sensor triggered, I will try and turn up the
>>>>>> type of float sensor I used from my records and let you no, It's
a
>>>>>> simple wiring job once you are through the firewall, Regards Ivor
>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>>> On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
> wrote:
>>>>>>> -->
>>>>>>> Hello Ivor.
>>>>>>> Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is
> closed.
>>>>>>> I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done,
sounds a
> good idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler
cap.
>>>>>>> Can you give some info on this.
>>>>>>> Regards.
>>>>>>> Alan
>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
>>>>>> Un/Subscription,
>>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>>>> Forums!
>>>>>> Admin.
>>>> Un/Subscription,
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>> Forums!
>>>> Admin.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl <b.carl(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
I was once comfortable checking the overflow bottle level. not any more. A
friend had a small leak in one of his hoses and the first indication he had
was an overheat indication. When he landed his over flow bottle was at the
normal level but he had no coolant in the pressure reservoir.
Over time the coolant had slowly leaked ender pressure and on cool down the
system sucked in air instead of coolant from the reserve bottle.
I now check for leaks, bottle level and coolant in the pressure tank.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
>
> Ivor Phillips a crit :
>>
>>
>> I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/
>> connections developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until the
>> level dropped below the pressure cap bottle,
>
> Ivor and all,
>
> In my opinion, monitoring the coolant *pressure* would be preferable,
> since pressure would be more closely related to the primary cause -leak in
> the circuit - than the consequence - low coolant level.
> Be prepared for some additional head-scratching, like is always the case
> when you monitor a new parameter.
>
> One word of caution : anytime one opens the pressure cap of the expansion
> tank, one breaks the syphon, so it's not the best way to check the coolant
> level. Better monitor the level in the translucent overflow bottle,
> without disturbing the coolant circuit.
>
> Best regards,
> --
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Collings" <rcollings(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Hi everyone.
I think the experienced pilots amongst our community need to stop this
right now and I don=99t class myself in that group. Imagine the
situation, say on take off, your busy in the cockpit to say the least
and you see the engine temp rise into the red,
what do you do, you can=99t shut down, you must expedite a safe
landing asap. If you have time before the engine seizes try to do an
abbreviated circuit and radio your intention with a Pan call and pray
you can get back down in one piece. I am sure other pilots will offer
differing scenarios. The point is if on top of the considerable work
load the pilot has, he now has to somehow manage boiling water and
steam in the cabin, he isn=99t going to do it.
Sorry for being blunt.
Richard
only 700ish hrs 75 on type
From: Joel Milloway
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2014 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
Thats the whole point right :)
On May 31, 2014, at 1:46 AM, Brian Davies
wrote:
When the fluid boils the cockpit could be filled with steam. That
would
certainly get your attention!
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Joel
Milloway
Sent: 31 May 2014 06:20
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
-->
What if the overflow bottle was mounted on the cockpit side of the
firewall
where it was visible at all times?
On May 28, 2014, at 2:04 AM, Ivor Phillips
wrote:
-->
I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my
Expansion bottle is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a
positive head of pressure back to the filler cap, Twice I have had
small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring
clamp
type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted,
Both
times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became
critical,
I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react
quickly enough but thats were my water temperature sender with voice
activated Dynon shouting high temperature in my ears would get my
complete attention,
Regards
ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce"
wrote:
-->
Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that
a
leaking or burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the
radiator
system without producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow
bottle, so that you could boil without your level sensor saying
anything. On
the other hand boiling the coolant is something that is very
noticeable in
air - you get blue fluid all over the screen - experienced when I was
trying
to do a 5 min full power climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early
model
props.!
Regards, David
Ivor Phillips wrote:
-->
I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your
hoses/
connections developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware
until
the level dropped below the pressure cap bottle, Once it had done so
it
would effectively stop circulating through the radiator and your
temperature
would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple of grams at most
and
IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical, My expansion
bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be seen
without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a
long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01.
Website
http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-o
verview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
Regards
Ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce"
wrote:
-->
Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the
fluid is
in the bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK,
and I
assume you check that frequently as part of your preparation
for
flight. The bottle is just there to make any fluid pushed out by
thermal
expansion recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and complication?
regards,
wrote:
-->
Hi alan
I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that
Rotax
supplied, I put her midway so the level would need to drop
to
minimum before the sensor triggered, I will try and turn up
the
type of float sensor I used from my records and let you no,
It's a
simple wiring job once you are through the firewall, Regards
Ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
wrote:
-->
Hello Ivor.
Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know
Manston is
closed.
I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have
done, sounds a
good idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler
cap.
Can you give some info on this.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
Un/Subscription,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
Forums!
Admin.
Un/Subscription,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
Forums!
Admin.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.m &n -
&nbs -->
http://www.matronics.com/co================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
Folks:
I believe the 912 series engines are primarily oil cooled, with some
water and air cooling to help. The engine can be flown at reduced power
for some time after a complete loss of coolant without seizing.
Before I sacrificed myself and my airplane, I'd fly to a safe landing
area to fix the problem.
john h
MKIII
Near - Burns Junction, Oregon
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Richard Collings
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 6:18 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
Hi everyone.
I think the experienced pilots amongst our community need to stop this
right now and I don=99t class myself in that group. Imagine the
situation, say on take off, your busy in the cockpit to say the least
and you see the engine temp rise into the red,
what do you do, you can=99t shut down, you must expedite a safe
landing asap. If you have time before the engine seizes try to do an
abbreviated circuit and radio your intention with a Pan call and pray
you can get back down in one piece. I am sure other pilots will offer
differing scenarios. The point is if on top of the considerable work
load the pilot has, he now has to somehow manage boiling water and
steam in the cabin, he isn=99t going to do it.
Sorry for being blunt.
Richard
only 700ish hrs 75 on type
From: Joel Milloway <mailto:dirtfly7(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2014 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
Thats the whole point right :)
On May 31, 2014, at 1:46 AM, Brian Davies
wrote:
When the fluid boils the cockpit could be filled with steam. That would
certainly get your attention!
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Milloway
Sent: 31 May 2014 06:20
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights
-->
What if the overflow bottle was mounted on the cockpit side of the
firewall
where it was visible at all times?
On May 28, 2014, at 2:04 AM, Ivor Phillips
wrote:
-->
I see what you are say David but in my case it works well, my
Expansion bottle is set high in the centre of the firewall and has a
positive head of pressure back to the filler cap, Twice I have had
small leaks, one from a hose clip before changing to the spring clamp
type and once from a bottom hose bleed nipple that I had fitted, Both
times I was aware of the coolant loss long before it became critical,
I take your point that with a burst hose it probably wouldn't react
quickly enough but thats were my water temperature sender with voice
activated Dynon shouting high temperature in my ears would get my
complete attention,
Regards
ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 27 May 2014, at 14:58, "David Joyce"
wrote:
-->
Ivor, It is not often I disagree with you, but I would guess that a
leaking or burst hose will let fluid out and air out of/in to the
radiator
system without producing sufficient suction to empty out the overflow
bottle, so that you could boil without your level sensor saying
anything. On
the other hand boiling the coolant is something that is very noticeable
in
air - you get blue fluid all over the screen - experienced when I was
trying
to do a 5 min full power climb to satisfy the LAA with one of my early
model
props.!
Regards, David
Ivor Phillips wrote:
-->
I don't quite agree David, if unbeknown to you one of your hoses/
connections developed a leak when airborne you would be unaware until
the level dropped below the pressure cap bottle, Once it had done so it
would effectively stop circulating through the radiator and your
temperature
would start climbing upwards, The sensor is a couple of grams at most
and
IMO would give me a heads up long before it got critical, My expansion
bottle is centre of the firewall as high as possible so cannot be seen
without removing the top cowl, I of course visually check it but on a
long
flight it nice to know that nothing untoward is happening,
For people interested in the sensor I used its a DE4 PPS 10 A01.
Website
http://www.deeter.co.uk/products/float-switch-liquid-level-sensors-o
verview/40-series-horizontal-liquid-level-sensor-float-switch
Regards
Ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 26 May 2014, at 11:19, "David Joyce"
wrote:
-->
Alan, For my money it doesn't really matter what level the fluid is
in the bottle as long as the level in the header tank is OK, and I
assume you check that frequently as part of your preparation for
flight. The bottle is just there to make any fluid pushed out by thermal
expansion recoverable as I see it. Why add weight and complication?
regards,
wrote:
-->
Hi alan
I drilled into the side of the plastic expansion bottle that Rotax
supplied, I put her midway so the level would need to drop to
minimum before the sensor triggered, I will try and turn up the
type of float sensor I used from my records and let you no, It's a
simple wiring job once you are through the firewall, Regards Ivor
Sent from my iPad
On 26 May 2014, at 08:51, "Alan Carter"
wrote:
-->
Hello Ivor.
Looks like Lydd is going to become more active know Manston is
closed.
I would like to fit an indicator the same as you have done, sounds a
good idea, is there something you can drill and attach to the filler
cap.
Can you give some info on this.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423797#423797
Un/Subscription,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
Forums!
Admin.
Un/Subscription,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
Forums!
Admin.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.m &n -
&nbs -->
http://www.matronics.com/co================
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Turbo Warning Lights |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Your 912 was designed to run at least 30 min. without coolant. Coolant only cools
the heads and not the rest of the engine like a car. You can help control temps
after total coolant loss by flying at reduced throttle settings. If temps
exceed the maximum on the heads the you should have the heads tested for hardness.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424293#424293
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
I run ethanol free mogas in my 912 (Diamond Katana) currently. I noticed in my
AFM that Diamond allows fuel that meets the ATSM D4814 fuel standard as well
as 100LL. I believe this standard allows up to 10% ethanol but the ATSM website
charges $60 for the pdf file. Does anyone know if I am correct and that normal
auto fuel pump gas is ATSM D4814 compliant. This would let me buy some of
my fuel at my local gas station. Thanks for any help. -John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425157#425157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question |
Everything you might want to know about mogas can be found in this Chevron
technical review ;
http://www.chevronwithtechron.com/products/documents/69083_motorgas_tech_rev
iew.pdf Your specific question is discussed on page 45 of that document.
The answer to your question about "normal auto fuel" seems to be: maybe J
Be sure to read the final paragraph on page 94, where Chevron tries to scare
us into not using mogas in aircraft engines.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JohnE
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 9:55 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question
j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com>
I run ethanol free mogas in my 912 (Diamond Katana) currently. I noticed in
my AFM that Diamond allows fuel that meets the ATSM D4814 fuel standard as
well as 100LL. I believe this standard allows up to 10% ethanol but the
ATSM website charges $60 for the pdf file. Does anyone know if I am correct
and that normal auto fuel pump gas is ATSM D4814 compliant. This would let
me buy some of my fuel at my local gas station. Thanks for any help. -John
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425157#425157>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425157#425157
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
ASTM is okay with auto fuel. As an example many of the SLSA aircraft are ASTM compliant
and allowed to use auto fuel. ASTM isn't the same nor have the teeth
that the FAR's do.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425164#425164
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the link, I'll read it in a bit.
Diamond Aircraft changed the language in the AFM for my Katana regarding fuel specification.
If the fuel meets ASTM D4814 it is allowable which is great because
ethanol free gasoline is hard to find. I'm lucky that there are 2-3 airports
within 50nm that sell it. I understand that Rotax allows up to 10% ethanol.
-John
rob(at)hyperion-ef.com wrote:
> Everything you might want to know about mogas can be found in this Chevron technical review ; http://www.chevronwithtechron.com/products/documents/69083_motorgas_tech_review.pdf (http://www.chevronwithtechron.com/products/documents/69083_motorgas_tech_review.pdf) Your specific question is discussed on page 45 of that document.
>
> The answer to your question about normal auto fuel seems to be: maybe J
>
> Be sure to read the final paragraph on page 94, where Chevron tries to scare
us into not using mogas in aircraft engines.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Irvine, California
> Europa XS
> Rotax 914
> S/N A070
> Airframe complete
> Avionics in progress
>
>
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425166#425166
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Mogas - ATSM ethanol question |
| From: | "mhinde" <melhinde(at)gmail.com> |
Something to investigate... In Canada, SHELL V-Power at every gas station is ethanol
free. I have contacted SHELL a number of times over the years and every
time have been assured that at every gas station the premium blend V-Power is
guaranteed to be ethanol free. Not sure in other countries what SHELL offers.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425206#425206
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | air entering fuel system on suction side - or is my |
Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Hi Folks,
Yesterday was supposed to be my final fuel flow test before taking to the
air again. I have recently installed a fuel return line in my 912 system
and also a fuel pressure gauge. The a/c is a Kitfox tri-gear, so high-wing
with tanks in each wing and a header tank located behind the seats. The
fuel flow test was performed on the ground with the aircraft in "take-off"
attitude with tail on the ground (approx 17 degrees).
Previous tests showed 100 l/hr (26 gal/hr) at the exit of the electrical
fuel pump and before the mechanical pump. This time, to be more realistic,
I measured the fuel flow after the mechanical fuel pump, at the entry of the
4-way junction that goes the carbs and to the fuel return line. In 18
minutes, the pump put out 18 litres, so 60 l/hr (16 gal/hr), which is still
acceptable, though 40% lower than the first measurement. But then,
something strange happened: the fuel flow went down dramatically, to approx.
20 l/hr (just over 5 gal/hr). I checked the gascolator and found it to be
clean.
A further investigation revealed that the fuel that was being pushed out
contained some air bubbles, which to me means that air must be entering the
fuel circuit on the suction side of the electrical pump. Or else the
electrical fuel pump is somehow broken and is letting air in. A further
data point is that if I hook up all the hoses and run the electrical fuel
pump the fuel pressure gauge indicates lower than usual pressure (0.25 bar
instead of 0.45 bar).
So before I go and investigate the suction side of the fuel system I'd like
to ask any experts out there:
1) Is it possible that I damaged the electrical fuel pump by letting it run
continuously for 20 minutes?
2) Is anyone aware of such failure modes for the Pierburg electrical fuel
pump?
3) How would you go about investigating the suction side of the fuel
system? My idea was to disconnect the hose at the exit of the fuel pump
and clamp it closed and then pressurize the circuit between the header tank
and the exit of the electrical fuel pump with an airline and search for
bubbles using soap water.
Thanks in advance for any help... the weather is beautiful flying weather
but I'm grounded until I can sort this out :(:(:(
Sacha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Sacha- I can think of a couple of things to check before blaming the pump. First,
are the tanks vented? Are the vents functioning? Second, make sure that
there isn't something blocking the fuel intake. I had this problem once on
a new piece of equipment with a diesel engine. It would sit and run at full throttle
for hours, but if it went down the street it would suck air, and shut
the engine down. It drove us nuts for a while, until we pulled the fuel tank
and found a 1" square piece of masking tape drifting around in the fuel. When
it sloshed over to the sucker tube, it blocked it and shut down the engine.
Air in the fuel always makes me think of that. We found it by pulling the plug
at the bottom and trying to drain it. The fuel would stop running. Poke a
wire in there, and it would run again. It was invisible when soaked with fuel.
We had to pull the tank to get it out. The tape had been used to cover all
openings when shipped from one
factory to another, and a piece dropped in when the manufacturer pulled it off.
Bill Sullivan
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 6/22/14, Sacha wrote:
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on suction side - or is my
Pierburg electrical pump broken?
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, June 22, 2014, 3:56 AM
--> RotaxEngines-List message
posted by: "Sacha"
Hi Folks,
Yesterday was supposed to be my final fuel flow test before
taking to the
air again. I have recently installed a fuel return
line in my 912 system
and also a fuel pressure gauge. The a/c is a Kitfox
tri-gear, so high-wing
with tanks in each wing and a header tank located behind the
seats.----
A further investigation revealed that the fuel that was
being pushed out
contained some air bubbles, which to me means that air must
be entering the
fuel circuit on the suction side of the electrical
pump.
RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Hi! Sacha,
Have you checked the thimble filter in the Pierburg electrical pump? It
needs a very sharp needle or pointed hooked instrument but only apply it to
the plastic collar and be careful replacing it with a wooden very blunt
pencil pushed home in to place very carefully, do not damage the gauze
filter element because they will NOT supply a replacement .....it would need
an entirely new pump.
Regards
Bob Harrison Europa G-PTAG c/w 914 Rotax and two electric fuel pumps.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sacha
Sent: 22 June 2014 08:57
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on suction side - or is
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Hi Folks,
Yesterday was supposed to be my final fuel flow test before taking to the
air again. I have recently installed a fuel return line in my 912 system
and also a fuel pressure gauge. The a/c is a Kitfox tri-gear, so high-wing
with tanks in each wing and a header tank located behind the seats. The
fuel flow test was performed on the ground with the aircraft in "take-off"
attitude with tail on the ground (approx 17 degrees).
Previous tests showed 100 l/hr (26 gal/hr) at the exit of the electrical
fuel pump and before the mechanical pump. This time, to be more realistic,
I measured the fuel flow after the mechanical fuel pump, at the entry of the
4-way junction that goes the carbs and to the fuel return line. In 18
minutes, the pump put out 18 litres, so 60 l/hr (16 gal/hr), which is still
acceptable, though 40% lower than the first measurement. But then,
something strange happened: the fuel flow went down dramatically, to approx.
20 l/hr (just over 5 gal/hr). I checked the gascolator and found it to be
clean.
A further investigation revealed that the fuel that was being pushed out
contained some air bubbles, which to me means that air must be entering the
fuel circuit on the suction side of the electrical pump. Or else the
electrical fuel pump is somehow broken and is letting air in. A further
data point is that if I hook up all the hoses and run the electrical fuel
pump the fuel pressure gauge indicates lower than usual pressure (0.25 bar
instead of 0.45 bar).
So before I go and investigate the suction side of the fuel system I'd like
to ask any experts out there:
1) Is it possible that I damaged the electrical fuel pump by letting it run
continuously for 20 minutes?
2) Is anyone aware of such failure modes for the Pierburg electrical fuel
pump?
3) How would you go about investigating the suction side of the fuel
system? My idea was to disconnect the hose at the exit of the fuel pump
and clamp it closed and then pressurize the circuit between the header tank
and the exit of the electrical fuel pump with an airline and search for
bubbles using soap water.
Thanks in advance for any help... the weather is beautiful flying weather
but I'm grounded until I can sort this out :(:(:(
Sacha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D L Josephson <dlj04(at)josephson.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinder head coolant leak? |
I'm working on a 912ULS from a windstorm-damaged plane that I'm pulling
out to put in a homebuilt. The engine sat on the airplane for about a
year after the airframe was totaled. All logs OK, looks very well cared
for. But, #2 cylinder had about 1/4 cup of coolant in it. Good thing no
one tried to start the engine, it was hydro locked by that. The spark
plugs had some rust on the electrodes. I haven't pulled the head off yet
but assume the valves will be in trouble too. The other cyls look OK.
Is this a commonly seen problem? I have to guess there is some corrosion
or a crack between the coolant passage and the valve. There's no coolant
in the oil.
Suggestions?
David Josephson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
| From: | Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
> On Jun 22, 2014, at 14:26, william sullivan wrote:
>
> First, are the tanks vented? Are the vents functioning? Second, make sure that
there isn't something blocking the fuel intake.
Thanks Bill. I've been away from the hangar (and email) for a few days but I will
check it this week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
| From: | Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Bob thank you. I will check it this week. Hopefully I don't need a new pump....
> On Jun 22, 2014, at 19:52, "Bob Harrison" wrote:
>
> Have you checked the thimble filter in the Pierburg electrical pump?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Hi Bill,
I took the header tank off today, emptied and cleaned it. It had some
silicon gasket material left over from when I installed the fuel level
sender. Occasionally bits would float around and block the exit orifice and
cause fuel flow to slow down substantially, exactly as you described. I
expect things will go back to normal as soon as I re-mount the tank.
Thanks again for the help!
Regards,
Sacha
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of william
sullivan
Sent: Sunday, 22 June, 2014 14:27
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on suction side -
or is my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
-->
Sacha- I can think of a couple of things to check before blaming the pump.
First, are the tanks vented? Are the vents functioning? Second, make sure
that there isn't something blocking the fuel intake. I had this problem
once on a new piece of equipment with a diesel engine. It would sit and run
at full throttle for hours, but if it went down the street it would suck
air, and shut the engine down. It drove us nuts for a while, until we
pulled the fuel tank and found a 1" square piece of masking tape drifting
around in the fuel. When it sloshed over to the sucker tube, it blocked it
and shut down the engine. Air in the fuel always makes me think of that.
We found it by pulling the plug at the bottom and trying to drain it. The
fuel would stop running. Poke a wire in there, and it would run again. It
was invisible when soaked with fuel. We had to pull the tank to get it out.
The tape had been used to cover all openings when shipped from one factory
to another, and a piece dropped in when the manufacturer pulled it off.
Bill Sullivan
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 6/22/14, Sacha wrote:
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on suction side - or
is my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, June 22, 2014, 3:56 AM
--> RotaxEngines-List message
posted by: "Sacha"
Hi Folks,
Yesterday was supposed to be my final fuel flow test before taking to the
air again. I have recently installed a fuel return line in my 912 system
and also a fuel pressure gauge. The a/c is a Kitfox tri-gear, so high-wing
with tanks in each wing and a header tank located behind the seats.----
A further investigation revealed that the fuel that was being pushed out
contained some air bubbles, which to me means that air must be entering the
fuel circuit on the suction side of the electrical pump.
RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Sacha- nice find. I have also had trouble with Teflon tape. If you overlap
the end of a fitting, it will tear off and clog a filter. Good luck.
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 6/24/14, Sacha wrote:
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on suction side - or
is my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, June 24, 2014, 11:16 AM
--> RotaxEngines-List message
posted by: "Sacha"
Hi Bill,
I took the header tank off today, emptied and cleaned
it. It had some
silicon gasket material left over from when I installed the
fuel level
sender. Occasionally bits would float around and block
the exit orifice and
cause fuel flow to slow down substantially, exactly as you
described. I
expect things will go back to normal as soon as I re-mount
the tank.
Thanks again for the help!
Regards,
Sacha
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of william
sullivan
Sent: Sunday, 22 June, 2014 14:27
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on
suction side -
or is my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
-->
Sacha- I can think of a couple of things to check
before blaming the pump.
First, are the tanks vented? Are the vents
functioning? Second, make sure
that there isn't something blocking the fuel intake. I
had this problem
once on a new piece of equipment with a diesel engine.
It would sit and run
at full throttle for hours, but if it went down the street
it would suck
air, and shut the engine down. It drove us nuts for a
while, until we
pulled the fuel tank and found a 1" square piece of masking
tape drifting
around in the fuel. When it sloshed over to the sucker
tube, it blocked it
and shut down the engine. Air in the fuel always makes
me think of that.
We found it by pulling the plug at the bottom and trying to
drain it. The
fuel would stop running. Poke a wire in there, and it
would run again. It
was invisible when soaked with fuel. We had to pull
the tank to get it out.
The tape had been used to cover all openings when shipped
from one factory
to another, and a piece dropped in when the manufacturer
pulled it off.
Bill Sullivan
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 6/22/14, Sacha
wrote:
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: air entering fuel system on
suction side - or
is my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, June 22, 2014, 3:56 AM
--> RotaxEngines-List message
posted by: "Sacha"
Hi Folks,
Yesterday was supposed to be my final fuel flow test
before taking to the
air again. I have recently installed a fuel return
line in my 912 system
and also a fuel pressure gauge. The a/c is a Kitfox
tri-gear, so high-wing
with tanks in each wing and a header tank located behind
the seats.----
A further investigation revealed that the fuel that
was being pushed out
contained some air bubbles, which to me means that air
must be entering the
fuel circuit on the suction side of the electrical
pump.
RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | air entering fuel system on suction side - or is |
my Pierburg electrical pump broken?
Silicone seal/products don't get along well with gasoline.
October 24, 2013 - June 24, 2014
RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-bf