RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-bh
December 07, 2014 - May 17, 2016
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> -----
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12/07/14
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic plug |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
It can come out two ways. One way is to use a small set of vise grip pliers and
there is enough shoulder to grab it. You can use a small butane torch and heat
the case around it. Try to direct the heat on the case and not the plug. Then
have someone use a metal rod on it and rap it with a hammer as you apply force
with the vise grips. Comes right out.
The other way is to use a Dremel tool with a cut off blade. Put a straght grove
in the plug and use a large tip screwdriver to turn with a wrench attached to
the screwdriver shaft for additional leverage and it will come right out. Again
heat the case and rap it with a hammer and metal rod. Do not cut so deep in
the screw plug with the Dremel to damage the case sealing edge.
Both of these ways work and are easy to do.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435461#435461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=C3=B8rensen?= <stabelvej9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic plug |
Go to Rotax site, and follow the instructions in the learning video for
exactly this subject - there is a procedure for what you do when a hex
is stripped - what tool to use, and what spares to get.
=93Magnetic plug removal=94, SB 914-034
Regards
Gert Dalgaard
Europa Mono / 914 / 1000 hrs.
OY-GDS
> Den 07/12/2014 kl. 20.19 skrev Michael Orth :
>
> Maybe you could use a Dremel-like tool to cut a groove in the plug.
> Then use a large screwdriver in the groove and Vise Grips to get the
plug moving.
> Michael
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com <mailto:ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>>
> To: >
> Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 3:19 PM
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Magnetic plug
>
>
> >
> > Hi Dan,
> >
> > This is easy. I have done many. Give me a call and I'll tell you two
ways to do it in seconds..
> >
> > Roger Lee
> > Tucson, AZ
> > 520-574-1080
> >
> > --------
> > Roger Lee
> > Tucson, Az.
> > Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> > Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> > Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> > Cell 520-349-7056
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435435#435435
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435435#435435>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hi Group
I have a 914. The Garett Air Cooled Turbo that the 914 uses has been around for
some time (I think it is very close to the one on my 1983 GLT50 (245) Volvo Turbo
Wagon).
Curiosity question:
Can a "much more better" designed air pump reduce heating of air?
I was at the New York Bike show over the weekend. One bike really caught my eye:
A Kawasaki H2(R).
It's a track bike with a H2 model that will be street legal (I'm sure less powerful).
Anyway the H2R has a 1,000cc Super Charged engine that is claimed to produce
300hp. 300hp per liter, quite impressive. Specifications are still a bit
vague, but 14K may be close to redline?
Anyway supposedly Kawasaki did their homework (drawing from their affiliates that
know about turbine design) and their H2R design uses ~ a 2.5" diameter centrifugal
compressor with the larger stage being an 18 blade design. It is driven
from the crankshaft via chain off crank, then planetary gears that can spin
turbine up to 140,000rpm, spewing out air centrifugally at up to a little more
than 1,000mph. Just a note, the bike I saw (and heard run) had single speed gearing,
but patent Kawasaki has is for 1,2 or 3 speed. 3 speed would make for
a lot of air at lower rpms (or high altitude!). The gearing on the single speed
was a little under 10 to 1 of crank speed.
The interesting thing is it doesn't have an inter-cooler. Kawasaki mentions it
doesn't need an inter-cooler because the "miracle shaped blades) make less heat
than if it were traditionally shaped (whatever that means".
The super-charger is at the rear of the engine and it has an aluminium combiner/air-box
sitting on top of the engine.
I don't know much about fluid dynamics. Can anyone shed some light:
If a more efficient design is had for a compressor that compresses air to boost
intake pressure to an engine, give me an idea of how much less heat might be
produced.
I know on my 1983 Volvo, it had a 4 cylinder engine with a 2,300cc displacement.
Stock out of the factory without an inter-cooler the turbo would raise air temp
as much as 145 degrees F. If you installed the factory offered inter-cooler,
instead of raising the air temp going into your engine 145F, it would only
raise the air temp 45F. The inter-cooler came with a device that would wait until
you got to 3,750rpm, then it would increase boost.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435789#435789
________________________________________________________________________________
According to the "ideal gas law" (which is a pretty good approximation for
air at the pressure in the intake manifold) PV = nRT so no matter what kind
of compressor/turbo is used, for a given amount of compression there is a
predictable change in temperature. Of course, if there is a difference in
the inefficiency of the turbos being compared that could make a difference
but I suspect that the differences will be minor compared to the theoretical
temperature change.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rparigoris
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 3:25 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Engine boosting
-->
Hi Group
I have a 914. The Garett Air Cooled Turbo that the 914 uses has been around
for some time (I think it is very close to the one on my 1983 GLT50 (245)
Volvo Turbo Wagon).
Curiosity question:
Can a "much more better" designed air pump reduce heating of air?
I was at the New York Bike show over the weekend. One bike really caught my
eye:
A Kawasaki H2(R).
It's a track bike with a H2 model that will be street legal (I'm sure less
powerful). Anyway the H2R has a 1,000cc Super Charged engine that is claimed
to produce 300hp. 300hp per liter, quite impressive. Specifications are
still a bit vague, but 14K may be close to redline?
Anyway supposedly Kawasaki did their homework (drawing from their affiliates
that know about turbine design) and their H2R design uses ~ a 2.5" diameter
centrifugal compressor with the larger stage being an 18 blade design. It is
driven from the crankshaft via chain off crank, then planetary gears that
can spin turbine up to 140,000rpm, spewing out air centrifugally at up to a
little more than 1,000mph. Just a note, the bike I saw (and heard run) had
single speed gearing, but patent Kawasaki has is for 1,2 or 3 speed. 3 speed
would make for a lot of air at lower rpms (or high altitude!). The gearing
on the single speed was a little under 10 to 1 of crank speed.
The interesting thing is it doesn't have an inter-cooler. Kawasaki mentions
it doesn't need an inter-cooler because the "miracle shaped blades) make
less heat than if it were traditionally shaped (whatever that means".
The super-charger is at the rear of the engine and it has an aluminium
combiner/air-box sitting on top of the engine.
I don't know much about fluid dynamics. Can anyone shed some light:
If a more efficient design is had for a compressor that compresses air to
boost intake pressure to an engine, give me an idea of how much less heat
might be produced.
I know on my 1983 Volvo, it had a 4 cylinder engine with a 2,300cc
displacement. Stock out of the factory without an inter-cooler the turbo
would raise air temp as much as 145 degrees F. If you installed the factory
offered inter-cooler, instead of raising the air temp going into your engine
145F, it would only raise the air temp 45F. The inter-cooler came with a
device that would wait until you got to 3,750rpm, then it would increase
boost.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435789#435789
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <ch701builder(at)yahoo.com> |
Rob,
Just FYI.
Here is a link to a company that is using a 912 and 912S, a centrifugal blower,
and getting around 25hp to 45hp extra.
http://www.flygas.info/en/news-en.html
Keith
**********************************************************************************
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 12/16/14, Rob Housman <rob@hyperion-ef.com> wrote:
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Engine boosting
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2014, 5:44 PM
--> RotaxEngines-List message
posted by: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
According to the "ideal gas law" (which is a pretty good
approximation for
air at the pressure in the intake manifold) PV = nRT so no
matter what kind
of compressor/turbo is used, for a given amount of
compression there is a
predictable change in temperature. Of course, if there is a
difference in
the inefficiency of the turbos being compared that could
make a difference
but I suspect that the differences will be minor compared to
the theoretical
temperature change.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of
rparigoris
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 3:25 PM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Engine boosting
-->
Hi Group
I have a 914. The Garett Air Cooled Turbo that the 914 uses
has been around
for some time (I think it is very close to the one on my
1983 GLT50 (245)
Volvo Turbo Wagon).
Curiosity question:
Can a "much more better" designed air pump reduce heating of
air?
I was at the New York Bike show over the weekend. One bike
really caught my
eye:
A Kawasaki H2(R).
It's a track bike with a H2 model that will be street legal
(I'm sure less
powerful). Anyway the H2R has a 1,000cc Super Charged engine
that is claimed
to produce 300hp. 300hp per liter, quite impressive.
Specifications are
still a bit vague, but 14K may be close to redline?
Anyway supposedly Kawasaki did their homework (drawing from
their affiliates
that know about turbine design) and their H2R design uses ~
a 2.5" diameter
centrifugal compressor with the larger stage being an 18
blade design. It is
driven from the crankshaft via chain off crank, then
planetary gears that
can spin turbine up to 140,000rpm, spewing out air
centrifugally at up to a
little more than 1,000mph. Just a note, the bike I saw (and
heard run) had
single speed gearing, but patent Kawasaki has is for 1,2 or
3 speed. 3 speed
would make for a lot of air at lower rpms (or high
altitude!). The gearing
on the single speed was a little under 10 to 1 of crank
speed.
The interesting thing is it doesn't have an inter-cooler.
Kawasaki mentions
it doesn't need an inter-cooler because the "miracle shaped
blades) make
less heat than if it were traditionally shaped (whatever
that means".
The super-charger is at the rear of the engine and it has an
aluminium
combiner/air-box sitting on top of the engine.
I don't know much about fluid dynamics. Can anyone shed some
light:
If a more efficient design is had for a compressor that
compresses air to
boost intake pressure to an engine, give me an idea of how
much less heat
might be produced.
I know on my 1983 Volvo, it had a 4 cylinder engine with a
2,300cc
displacement. Stock out of the factory without an
inter-cooler the turbo
would raise air temp as much as 145 degrees F. If you
installed the factory
offered inter-cooler, instead of raising the air temp going
into your engine
145F, it would only raise the air temp 45F. The inter-cooler
came with a
device that would wait until you got to 3,750rpm, then it
would increase
boost.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435789#435789
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine boosting |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Rob is exactly correct. Compression always increases energy, in this
case heat. For a given compression ratio, there will always be the same
increase in heat energy and if starting from the same temperature,
always ending at the same higher temperature irrespective of fan blade design.
As for "Flygas", not in my airplane! There's something reassuring about
ground up system design and review of all affected parts in terms of
flight reliability.
Happy Holidays and Safe Flight!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436250#436250
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine boosting |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Where I live in Colombia they developed a turbo for the stock 912 before
the 914 came out. It uses a Mitsubishi turbo with the standard carbs
albeit adjusted. I hear that you can get 39" but I only use 33" but given
that I fly out of SKGY MSL 8500 this gives 500' minute performance with two
adults aboard my ICPStol.
The system is pretty much what you would imagine with the four exhausts
feeding the turbo which has the standard vehicle blow off valve but with a
weaker spring than the vehicle one. I had manual adjustment with a vernier
for a while which also worked fine but added work. The cold side feeds an
airbox which feeds the carbs. I like this set up and I have flow nearly
500 hours on it without a problem except once when I fitted normal paper
carb bowl gaskets which let in air and high MP. Cork gaskets solved the
problem.
I had an engine tear down by a rotax certified mechanic at 500 hours and
all tolerances where within spec.
A lot of people use this set up here and I have never heard of any problems
except when the boost is set too high 40" +. In fact due to the complexity
of the 914 in many ways it seems a more reliable option.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Thu, Dec 25, 2014 at 10:43 AM, rampil wrote:
>
> Rob is exactly correct. Compression always increases energy, in this
> case heat. For a given compression ratio, there will always be the same
> increase in heat energy and if starting from the same temperature,
> always ending at the same higher temperature irrespective of fan blade
> design.
>
> As for "Flygas", not in my airplane! There's something reassuring about
> ground up system design and review of all affected parts in terms of
> flight reliability.
>
> Happy Holidays and Safe Flight!
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436250#436250
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine boosting |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
William - Merry Christmas!
It is not wear on moving parts that would be of concern, it is instead
the added stress on the crank, the rods, the pistons and the cylinders/heads.
Remember the rotax gets its performance from light weight alloys which are
designed to just meet expected stress, not the added stress of running at
an MP 10 - 30% higher than design.
The 914 is not just a 912 with a blower bolted on, some moving parts were
also upgraded.
In experimental aviation fooling around with your engine is certainly
permissible, even encouraged, if you know what you are doing. There is
even a Rotax-designated service center in Mississippi that does all
kinds of mods to stock engines for the Highlander / SuperSTOL crowd.
All I said in my initial comments is that for my aircraft, I would not markedly
diminish the reliability of my engine for a small gain in power and an even
smaller gain in speed. Your mileage will vary. I use my 912s Europa for 1000
nm cross country trips from 0 - 1000' MSL airports. I like a reliable engine!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436284#436284
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine boosting |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Ira likewise Merry Christmas.
Yes I had the same thoughts about stress hence keeping the boost to 33" and
reduce power to 30" within 3 minutes of take off. I cruise at 27". Also I
suppose my need taking off at 8500' is slightly out of the normal operating
range and requires extraordinary measures! However the local mechanics
tell me that the internals of the 914 are the same as the 912 and certainly
the anecdotal reliability "stats" would suggest that the mod doesn't over
stress the engine. At 27" I am burning 4 gals and hour.
The downside of the mod in my opinion is weight, complexity and heat
albeit this is less complex than a 914. If I were flying at sea level I
would choose a 912s as an excellent balance weight simplicity and power.
Interestingly enough the only major issue that I have heard of with rotax
here was a 912s on mogas. Even the premium mogas here is of very poor
quality and in a friend's aircraft this caused detonation which cracked a
piston. Quality gas is a must in high compression engines.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 10:16 AM, rampil wrote:
>
> William - Merry Christmas!
>
> It is not wear on moving parts that would be of concern, it is instead
> the added stress on the crank, the rods, the pistons and the
> cylinders/heads.
>
> Remember the rotax gets its performance from light weight alloys which are
> designed to just meet expected stress, not the added stress of running at
> an MP 10 - 30% higher than design.
>
> The 914 is not just a 912 with a blower bolted on, some moving parts were
> also upgraded.
>
> In experimental aviation fooling around with your engine is certainly
> permissible, even encouraged, if you know what you are doing. There is
> even a Rotax-designated service center in Mississippi that does all
> kinds of mods to stock engines for the Highlander / SuperSTOL crowd.
>
> All I said in my initial comments is that for my aircraft, I would not
> markedly
> diminish the reliability of my engine for a small gain in power and an even
> smaller gain in speed. Your mileage will vary. I use my 912s Europa for
> 1000 nm cross country trips from 0 - 1000' MSL airports. I like a reliable
> engine!
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436284#436284
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure at 145 psi |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Henry,
If your oil pressure sender is directly attached to the oil pump, its probably
a dead or damaged sender. Vibration usually kills them over time.
Not recommending you do this, but I moved my sender from the engine block to the
firewall and have a length of pressure hose from the block to the sender. So
far, no problems.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (90 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Jan 17, 2015, at 4:20 PM, henry.voris wrote:
Cruze'n along with the trusty 912 ULS turning 4,800 RPM when I notice the oil pressure
is pegged at 145 psi. The factory sez 73 psi is max. Smartly I execute
a 180 turn and retrace the ten miles to the airport.
While taxiing back to the shadeport I goof with the throttle and see that the oil
pressure rises and falls with the RPM, but by the time it gets to 4,000 RPM
we're showing 100 psi. Inspection shows no leakage.
I'm hoping it's something cheap, easy and on top...
Any help troubleshooting this would be most appreciated... Thanks in advance.
Henry
--------
Henry
Firefly Five-Charlie-Bravo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 503 Oil Cable end wearing out |
| From: | "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net> |
This 503 came from the factory without oil injection. At 80 hours I installed an
injection system. The engine now has 136 hours so only 56 hours on this cable.
You can see it is worn about 1/4 of the way through the barrel swedge on both
ends where it contacts the oil pump lever. The pump lever is not worn at all.
I noticed the swedge is brass. Too soft??? I have lubed it with LPS about every
10 hours.
The engine is on a Kitfox so I had California Power Sports make a cable with the
503 oiler swedge on the pump end and a barrel swedge to fit the Kitfox throttle
reverser bellcrank on the other end. I think I gave them measurements either
too short for the inner cable or too long for the outer cable.
I had to put both lock nuts on the adjuster below the bracket as shown to make
the line on the lever line up at 3000 rpm. This caused the cable to not pull straight
up on the lever at full throttle as shown in the photos. Could that be
my problem
I really like the convenience of the injection and it is supposed to be better
for the engine but this is no good. Anyone else have this problem or have any
ideas. I called CPS and they do not custom make cables anymore.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437518#437518
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_35242800_1420669680_504.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_61384800_1420677060_thumb_966.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 503 Oil Cable end wearing out |
Tom,
I started flying ultralights in '78 with a Pterodactyl, currently own a Hornet
and a Trike. I've had oil injection on a Maxair only which I think is just something
else to go wrong. I understand what you're saying about oil injection but
to me, adding oil to a 5 gallon can of fuel is much more reliable. Just takes
a little effort is all & you eliminate a possible break in the chain.
When the guy who originally ran CPS sold out, we all lost an incredibly knowledgeable
guy who put out a fantastic catalog, loaded with not only great products
but also with an explanation of what they do on almost every page.
I don't have a lot of confidence in the new folks.
Bill Catalina
Tallahassee
blumax008(at)aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Jones <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net>
Sent: Fri, Jan 23, 2015 10:40 am
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 503 Oil Cable end wearing out
This 503 came from the factory without oil injection. At 80 hours I installed an
injection system. The engine now has 136 hours so only 56 hours on this cable.
You can see it is worn about 1/4 of the way through the barrel swedge on both
ends where it contacts the oil pump lever. The pump lever is not worn at all.
I noticed the swedge is brass. Too soft??? I have lubed it with LPS about every
10 hours.
The engine is on a Kitfox so I had California Power Sports make a cable with the
503 oiler swedge on the pump end and a barrel swedge to fit the Kitfox throttle
reverser bellcrank on the other end. I think I gave them measurements either
too short for the inner cable or too long for the outer cable.
I had to put both lock nuts on the adjuster below the bracket as shown to make
the line on the lever line up at 3000 rpm. This caused the cable to not pull straight
up on the lever at full throttle as shown in the photos. Could that be
my problem
I really like the convenience of the injection and it is supposed to be better
for the engine but this is no good. Anyone else have this problem or have any
ideas. I called CPS and they do not custom make cables anymore.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437518#437518
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_35242800_1420669680_504.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_61384800_1420677060_thumb_966.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 503 Oil Cable end wearing out |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Tom:
Looking at your pictures three (3) things come to mind:
1 - This may sound very strange but with over 20 years in QA and test
engineering - The cable has a LEFT TWIST to it. I have see many strange
ware patterns with LEFT TWIST cable. See if you can find a RIGHT TWIST
cable. If you go to a bicycle shop they may have the Right Twist cable and
be able to swag the end fittings.
2 - The PLATE that guides the cable is not at the same angle as the arm...
Twist the plate so it points more to the arm.
3 - The way you fitted the adjustment fitting and nuts is the way most
people and probably the instructions show. BUT! The distance between the
end of the adjustment fitting and the arm is TOO SMALL. You want a nice
smooth arcing of the cable as it exits the adjustment fitting and the arm.
MOVE the double nut mounting point as high - close to the end of the
adjustment threads as possible. I do understand that this may not be due
to the SUPPLIED parts. Time to be smarter than the manufacture and utilize
the Experimental part of the planes certification.
Another trick/item comes to mind... GREASE the cable and inside of the
cable guide with a Teflon based grease. Make sure it can handle the
temperature range. I would guess a range of +250 F to -20 F should cover
the requirements.
Barry
On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 10:39 AM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
> This 503 came from the factory without oil injection. At 80 hours I
> installed an injection system. The engine now has 136 hours so only 56
> hours on this cable. You can see it is worn about 1/4 of the way through
> the barrel swedge on both ends where it contacts the oil pump lever. The
> pump lever is not worn at all. I noticed the swedge is brass. Too soft??? I
> have lubed it with LPS about every 10 hours.
>
> The engine is on a Kitfox so I had California Power Sports make a cable
> with the 503 oiler swedge on the pump end and a barrel swedge to fit the
> Kitfox throttle reverser bellcrank on the other end. I think I gave them
> measurements either too short for the inner cable or too long for the outer
> cable.
>
> I had to put both lock nuts on the adjuster below the bracket as shown to
> make the line on the lever line up at 3000 rpm. This caused the cable to
> not pull straight up on the lever at full throttle as shown in the photos.
> Could that be my problem
>
> I really like the convenience of the injection and it is supposed to be
> better for the engine but this is no good. Anyone else have this problem or
> have any ideas. I called CPS and they do not custom make cables anymore.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437518#437518
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_35242800_1420669680_504.jpg
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_130_0_61384800_1420677060_thumb_966.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 503 Oil Cable end wearing out |
| From: | "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net> |
Thanks for the ideas guys.
I was seriously considering removing the oil injection. I just had the engine
resealed by a Rotax service center and asked his opinion on the cable and on removing
the injection. He said it is a high wear item and convinced me to see
if I can get the cable to last longer. I often don't fly for two weeks or more
and then need to drain the fuel if using premix.
I am going to get s new cable made and will ask them to use a right hand lay cable.
I'll also make sure it is the proper length so I can adjust the end of the
adjuster up higher near the bracket.
I have been doing more research and since I posted this morning I found LEAF Aviation's
catalog has a stainless steel oil cable end for the 503. The only others
I have found in catalogs seem to be brass.
More opinions still welcome if anyone has some.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437534#437534
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 503 Oil Cable end wearing out |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Tom, Use a good quality motorcycle cable oil. I prefer one with graphite
lubricant added to the oil. Soak the cable with the lube a day or two
before installing it and hang it up to let the excess oil run out. Make
sure when you install it that the cable guide is aligned with actuating
lever on the pump at mid stroke to minimize side pressure on the cable and
housing.
Personally, I premix for my 582 but only because the engine came already
converted on my aircraft. The advantage to the injection system is that at
mid throttle, i.e. cruise settings, it reduces oil to fuel ratio to about
70 to 1 and consequently reduces carbon packing in the rings.
Rick Girard
On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
> Thanks for the ideas guys.
>
> I was seriously considering removing the oil injection. I just had the
> engine resealed by a Rotax service center and asked his opinion on the
> cable and on removing the injection. He said it is a high wear item and
> convinced me to see if I can get the cable to last longer. I often don't
> fly for two weeks or more and then need to drain the fuel if using premix.
>
> I am going to get s new cable made and will ask them to use a right hand
> lay cable. I'll also make sure it is the proper length so I can adjust the
> end of the adjuster up higher near the bracket.
>
> I have been doing more research and since I posted this morning I found
> LEAF Aviation's catalog has a stainless steel oil cable end for the 503.
> The only others I have found in catalogs seem to be brass.
>
> More opinions still welcome if anyone has some.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437534#437534
>
>
--
Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
-Andre Gide
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "justingeren" <justingeren(at)hushmail.com> |
When you have problems with the annoying signal that bother you sometimes from
the base station, while you dont have any good idea to do with that, then you
may need a cell phone signal jammer to help you get rid of such things. Or maybe
you own a car, and you dont want to be interrupted by other interference from
other vehicles when you are on the phone in your car, then you may need a car
remote control jammer, which can work well as a nice assistant. Or if you are
trying to avoid of being stalked by others, then you may need to pick up some
powerful anti-tracking items to help you to get rid of such conditions. Most
of them will be provided on jammerinthebox.com, there always can be suitable
for you or just meet your demand perfectly. For we have been researching and
kept improving the quality in this field for decades, all of them can be professionals
in the market, you will need them.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437541#437541
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Harness for "old" SMD electronic modules |
I have an older engine that uses the 965-358 modules and have been dealing
with ignition problems over the years that has mainly been broken wire
related.
If and when I have to replace a module I learned in a recent Rotax class
that these modules are hard to come by and very expensive. A recent vendor
catalog had them listed for over $1300 vs about $950 for a current
edition.(probably NOS if they still have them)
Saw one on EBAY for $400 but what kind of shape is it in and how many
hours under what conditions ?
I ran across a man in England that makes a "plug and play" harness to adapt
the new modules to the' Plug and pin" system on my old engine. This would
allow me to use the new modules on my old engine and they would be
available should I have a failure. So ,I ordered the harness which should be
arriving soon. This harness is not cheap as the parts from Rotax are expensive
but at least the harness will allow me to continue flying.
Installation from cowling off to cowling on takes about an hour according
to the maker.
Thought I would pass this on so that should anyone else in this situation
be interested at least you would have an out. Let me know and I will pass
on the gentleman's name and address. He said he will make these on an
individual basis as there are currently 3 different module systems I believe. My
engine used the first generation system (after the "box")
Dick Maddux
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | General Aviation News and CTFlier.com |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
http://generalaviationnews.com/2015/02/26/ct-typeclub/
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438802#438802
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2015 Annual Page, AZ Fly-In |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
More info here:
http://ctflier.com/index.php?/topic/315 ... az-fly-in/
The time has come. If you said you were going to wait until next year then that
time has come. This will be my last year to be the front runner for this event.
Someone else can take it over (it isn't that tough). If no one does then this
is our last and it's time to step up and come have fun with us one last time.
More fun than you can have in any one place with people from all over the country.
After I get the river trip setup then you all can copy and paste this post to other
flying websites. All are welcome CT or not.
Annual 2015 Page, AZ. Fly-In
biggrin.gifLake Powell, Monument Valley, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Grand Canyon, Bullfrog
Marina Resort...
Make those reservations now. It's time again to work on the Page, AZ Fly-In. We
changed a few things last year that added some new fun. We did the river raft
trip the day before the actual Fly-In day. It was a great raft trip. I would
highly recommend it.
We changed up some of the routes last year which turned out well so we'll do it
again.
The Page, AZ. Fly-In date is October 15-18, 2015
We will fly the Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Monument Valley (breakfast), Zion Canyon
and Bryce Canyon (breakfast), Bullfrog Marina and Resort (breakfast).
I have blocked off 30 rooms. We will be at the Clarion Inn with a rate of $65 (2
queen beds). I hope to have a record number of CT's and LSA aircraft for our
Page Fly-In. Just like last year make the reservations early so you don't miss
out and the hotel won't hold all 30 rooms forever.
Do not wait this year. Book it now and you can cancel up to 24 hours before Oct.
15th. Get it booked and reserved, then if you have to cancel you can, but if
you wait again then you may not be staying with the rest of us and at your own
peril for rates and possibly a different hotel. They book darn near the whole
town in October.
"You must tell them you are with the CT Group" for your reference and the rate
of $65 a night. We will arrive Thursday morning, Oct. 15th. and head home Oct.
18th. Sunday or Monday morning. Breakfast is free in the mornings. This hotel
has not only a continental breakfast, but a full breakfast.
I talked to the people at the Ranch House Grill and they will cater our evening
meals again. We will have evening meals together Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Clarion Inn
Ask for Illisa IF you have any issues with your reservations.
751 South Navajo Drive, Page, AZ 86040
928-645-9000
We will fly into the Page airport - KPGA.
We are staying with Classic FBO and with our group we should get a 30 cent discount
on fuel.
Classic is not the first FBO next to the runway, but the second one behind them.
The Antelope Canyon tour and the Dam tour is open if anyone wants. These are land
tours.
You guys are welcome to invite other planes that are not CT's and everyone is welcome.
Find some more LSA's.
I will develop GPS coordinates for all our routes and post them so you can enter
them in your own GPS. I have a plan to better deal with all our planes for our
flights so they are not crowded in the mornings or evenings.
Don't miss this, we always have fun.
p.s. biggrin.gif
I would like everyone coming to shoot me an email so I can put together a roster
and make name tags. If you attended last year and we have your personal info
then just say you are coming. If you did not come last year then I would like
the email to include: N#, Names of you and co-pilot, cell phone number, city,
state.
This is a big help for me to last year to organize our fly outs since we have so
many planes and gives old friends and new friends a way to contact each other
if need be.
Thanks,
Roger Lee
The River Raft trip (don't miss it). Give me a couple more days to get this trip
set up so don't call them until you see a reservation number posted.
You must refer to this Reservation Number: (to be announced) and tell them you
are with the CT group.
A 1/2 day raft trip on Wed. Oct. 14th from Glen Canyon Dam down to just above Lee's
Ferry.
The trip starts in Page (at 1100 hrs) where we will take a shuttle bus down below
the dam. We will board a 20-22 person raft and travel down river for about
1.5 hrs. and get out for drinks and photos. Then back in and on down close to
Lee's Ferry. Then we turn around a high speed boat back to the start. There is
no white water just a nice trip down through the canyons. The cost for all of
this is $87 a person. The phone number for the reservations is 928-645-9175.
Don't be left out, I know of at least 6 people that have already signed up so don't
be late to make the boat, sign up now. They have a 48 hr. cancellation policy
and you get it all back except a $7 charge. This means you will have to arrive
in Page Oct. 13th.
BRING YOUR HAT, SUNGLASSES AND SUNSCREEN.
Here is the link: http://raftthecanyon...day-raft-trips/
What are you waiting for, let's go, I'm already signed up. ;)
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438815#438815
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Roberts <grroberts3(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2015 Annual Page, AZ Fly-In |
Roger,
Please add me to the list for Page. Thanks for the non-CT invitation.
Gary R. Roberts
4030 N Paseo De Los Rancheros
Tucson, AZ 85745
grroberts3(at)juno.com
cell 520.307-7231
N2174B Marchetti S205R
Co-Pilot to be determined
You and I talked about my Europa/Rotax build a few years ago. We
nearly went flying in your CT, but aborted on taxi due to winds.
Gary R. Roberts
grroberts3(at)juno.co
> On Feb 28, 2015, at 14:48, Roger Lee wrote:
>
>
> More info here:
>
> http://ctflier.com/index.php?/topic/315 ... az-fly-in/
>
>
> The time has come. If you said you were going to wait until next year
then that time has come. This will be my last year to be the front
runner for this event. Someone else can take it over (it isn't that
tough). If no one does then this is our last and it's time to step up
and come have fun with us one last time. More fun than you can have in
any one place with people from all over the country.
>
> After I get the river trip setup then you all can copy and paste this
post to other flying websites. All are welcome CT or not.
>
>
> Annual 2015 Page, AZ. Fly-In
>
>
> biggrin.gifLake Powell, Monument Valley, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Grand
Canyon, Bullfrog Marina Resort...
> Make those reservations now. It's time again to work on the Page, AZ
Fly-In. We changed a few things last year that added some new fun. We
did the river raft trip the day before the actual Fly-In day. It was a
great raft trip. I would highly recommend it.
> We changed up some of the routes last year which turned out well so
we'll do it again.
>
> The Page, AZ. Fly-In date is October 15-18, 2015
>
> We will fly the Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Monument Valley
(breakfast), Zion Canyon and Bryce Canyon (breakfast), Bullfrog Marina
and Resort (breakfast).
>
> I have blocked off 30 rooms. We will be at the Clarion Inn with a rate
of $65 (2 queen beds). I hope to have a record number of CT's and LSA
aircraft for our Page Fly-In. Just like last year make the reservations
early so you don't miss out and the hotel won't hold all 30 rooms
forever.
>
> Do not wait this year. Book it now and you can cancel up to 24 hours
before Oct. 15th. Get it booked and reserved, then if you have to cancel
you can, but if you wait again then you may not be staying with the rest
of us and at your own peril for rates and possibly a different hotel.
They book darn near the whole town in October.
>
> "You must tell them you are with the CT Group" for your reference and
the rate of $65 a night. We will arrive Thursday morning, Oct. 15th. and
head home Oct. 18th. Sunday or Monday morning. Breakfast is free in the
mornings. This hotel has not only a continental breakfast, but a full
breakfast.
> I talked to the people at the Ranch House Grill and they will cater
our evening meals again. We will have evening meals together Thursday,
Friday and Saturday.
>
>
> Clarion Inn
>
> Ask for Illisa IF you have any issues with your reservations.
> 751 South Navajo Drive, Page, AZ 86040
> 928-645-9000
>
> We will fly into the Page airport - KPGA.
> We are staying with Classic FBO and with our group we should get a 30
cent discount on fuel.
> Classic is not the first FBO next to the runway, but the second one
behind them.
>
> The Antelope Canyon tour and the Dam tour is open if anyone wants.
These are land tours.
> You guys are welcome to invite other planes that are not CT's and
everyone is welcome. Find some more LSA's.
>
> I will develop GPS coordinates for all our routes and post them so you
can enter them in your own GPS. I have a plan to better deal with all
our planes for our flights so they are not crowded in the mornings or
evenings.
>
>
> Don't miss this, we always have fun.
>
> p.s. biggrin.gif
> I would like everyone coming to shoot me an email so I can put
together a roster and make name tags. If you attended last year and we
have your personal info then just say you are coming. If you did not
come last year then I would like the email to include: N#, Names of you
and co-pilot, cell phone number, city, state.
> This is a big help for me to last year to organize our fly outs since
we have so many planes and gives old friends and new friends a way to
contact each other if need be.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Lee
>
> The River Raft trip (don't miss it). Give me a couple more days to get
this trip set up so don't call them until you see a reservation number
posted.
> You must refer to this Reservation Number: (to be announced) and tell
them you are with the CT group.
> A 1/2 day raft trip on Wed. Oct. 14th from Glen Canyon Dam down to
just above Lee's Ferry.
> The trip starts in Page (at 1100 hrs) where we will take a shuttle bus
down below the dam. We will board a 20-22 person raft and travel down
river for about 1.5 hrs. and get out for drinks and photos. Then back in
and on down close to Lee's Ferry. Then we turn around a high speed boat
back to the start. There is no white water just a nice trip down through
the canyons. The cost for all of this is $87 a person. The phone number
for the reservations is 928-645-9175.
> Don't be left out, I know of at least 6 people that have already
signed up so don't be late to make the boat, sign up now. They have a 48
hr. cancellation policy and you get it all back except a $7 charge. This
means you will have to arrive in Page Oct. 13th.
> BRING YOUR HAT, SUNGLASSES AND SUNSCREEN.
> Here is the link: http://raftthecanyon...day-raft-trips/
>
> What are you waiting for, let's go, I'm already signed up. ;)
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438815#438815
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Have you been injured?
> Get a free evaluation today to see what your injury case is worth.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3155/54f23a51abc5f3a512e4dmp06vuc
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2015 Annual Page, AZ Fly-In |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Gary,
Got it. Look forward to seeing you there.
p.s.
Thanks for sending it to my regular email.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438860#438860
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax float exchange process |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Just to be clear on the float exchange process.
There are lots of orders out there pending so please be patient as only so many
orders can be filled at a time.
For Kodiak (Rotax Bahamas) customers areas:
For non-certified engines (UL) In the USA, and in other regions where warranty
service is administered by the ROTAX distributor Kodiak (American Samoa, Antigua
And Barbuda, Argentina, Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bermuda, Bolivia,
Brazil, Cayman Islands, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Diego Garcia, Dominica,
Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, French Guiana, Grenada, Guam,
Guatemala, Guyana, Haiti, Honduras, Jamaica, Martinique, Mexico, Netherlands Antilles,
Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Saint Kitts And Nevis,
Saint Lucia, Saint Pierre And Miquelon, Saint Vincent And The Grenadines, Suriname,
Trinidad And Tobago, Turks And Caicos Islands, Uruguay, Venezuela, Virgin
Islands)...
Customers with non-certified (UL) engines, that have affected serial numbers must
contact their respective independent Service Centre, (iSC). At that time they
may purchase the parts from the iSC.
When the old parts are returned and the paperwork is submitted with valid serial
number, a credit will be issued back to the customer. (The iSC will require
the customer to return the old floats, tagged with the engine serial number, before
the customer can receive a refund.)
For customers who prefer to have the parts changed by a qualified independent Rotax
Maintenance Technician, (iRMT), contact your service provider directly to
make appropriate arrangements.
If you don't have an engine in the serial range, but did purchase individual floats
within the affected time period these can be included, but you will need
to have your invoice as proof of purchase. Your distributor you purchased from
may be able to help you if you did not keep the invoice.
p.s.
Just to let people know that these floats are the same, but have a dimple on the
new floats. They are the same float material, but the difference is that instead
of only two test performed before shipment they now get a third test and
the new test is a pressure test. This process finds any floats susceptible to
sinking.
Any floats that you may have with marks on them or scratches DO NOT affect the
float as far as fuel absorption. Floats technically can last for the life of the
engine. What could wear out is the float guide and pin from vibration and rubbing
over time, but even this isn't very prevalent.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439233#439233
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 5-Year Rotax Rubber Replacement |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
On my RV-12, with Rotax 912ULS I am thinking of replacing all hoses with the Aircraft
Specialty (AS) PTFE hoses.
The 5-year replacement "kit" from Cal. Power Systems, seems to have some hoses
that duplicate (more or less) those that I will be using from Aircraft Specialty.
I need to know what rubber parts to purchase beyond those from AS, particularly
the carb parts.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Hopefully Roger Lee can help with this....Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439440#439440
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 5-Year Rotax Rubber Replacement |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Just some food for thought. This is certainly a personal preference item.
I have done 7-8 RV12 hose changes.
Those Teflon hoses are expensive, but yes they are the best. If just the fuel aren't
they $500+? They are supposed to be a 10 year hose?
If you add oil hoses that has to be up around $1000.
The standard rubber fuel hose would be about $15-$20. If you double that for
the 10 year mark that has a pretty big price difference. The standard 13mm (1/2")
oil hoses would normally cost around $35-$45 verses over $500+ for Teflon.
If you are switching to the Teflon hose and since these are pre-made you will
need new fittings for these new hose to fit them to the engine. They may come
with them I do not know, you would hope so. They may or may not come with fire
sleeve I don't know. There is a good chance they come ready to go with fittings
and fire sleeve.
That said you would have labor included for the second hose change and that may
be around $500-$800.
Depending on the shop that changes the hoses a normal full hose change parts and
labor may cost any where from $2500-$4000. The high end number would be a little
more expensive shops.
If you use the Teflon fuel hoses you will still need:
13mm oil hose (from Spruce)
17mm coolant hose from Spruce
25mm (1") coolant hose
90 degree 17mm coolant hose
carb diaphragms
Carb sockets
66mm carb balance tube hose
Oetiker band clamps or fuel injection clamps for standard fuel hose
Fuel injection clamps for the oil line.
Band-It band clamps for the fire sleeve. Fire sleeve may be re-usable if the hose
lengths are the same.
The thing with Spruce's kit is they assume you will take certain things apart and
will need things like crush washers. The thing is you don't need to disturb
the fitting just pull the hose off and replace it. I usually need need as many
parts as they want to sell so when I need things I just buy specific parts and
that can save quite a bit which I can then pass on to the customer.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439450#439450
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 5-Year Rotax Rubber Replacement |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Roger,
Aeroquip 666 is supposed to be a service life unlimited product. Why
assume a ten year replacement, instead of on-condition?
Of course on the rotax we need to use real aerospace 666, not the cheaper
automotive hose lacking the interior conductive carbon strip.
Having said that, I will share a brief cautionary tale.
I removed the crappy VDO oil pressure transducer, replacing it with
a modern, aerospace rated (read expensive) transducer I mounted on the
firewall. I chose Aeroquip666 with appropriate fittings from the block to
the transducer. The hose and the fittings were about $100.
The hose worked great for years until.....I was charging my main battery
and the ground momentarily made contact with the stainless braid of this
hose. Unknown to me at the time, the 20 Amp charge current perforated
the teflon liner. No obvious sign on the ground... About a mile off the
runway, my cockpit filled with smoke from oil spray onto my muffler.
Under engine running oil pressure, that pinhole sprayed quite a bit of oil.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439591#439591
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2015 Annual Page, AZ Fly-In |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Rooms are going quick.
I just talked to the Hotel and managed to book 5 more rooms. The total rooms now
is 35 and we already have 25 reserved.
If you are going to come don't wait too long before you reserve a room. 10 more
rooms isn't very many.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439687#439687
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 5-Year Rotax Rubber Replacement |
fascinating post
Your event makes me think about going beyond basics that have demonstrated
proven reliability over time
BJ Kitfox IV 912
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> Aeroquip 666 is supposed to be a service life unlimited product. Why
> assume a ten year replacement, instead of on-condition?
>
> Of course on the rotax we need to use real aerospace 666, not the cheaper
> automotive hose lacking the interior conductive carbon strip.
>
> Having said that, I will share a brief cautionary tale.
>
> I removed the crappy VDO oil pressure transducer, replacing it with
> a modern, aerospace rated (read expensive) transducer I mounted on the
> firewall. I chose Aeroquip666 with appropriate fittings from the block to
> the transducer. The hose and the fittings were about $100.
>
> The hose worked great for years until.....I was charging my main battery
> and the ground momentarily made contact with the stainless braid of this
> hose. Unknown to me at the time, the 20 Amp charge current perforated
> the teflon liner. No obvious sign on the ground... About a mile off the
> runway, my cockpit filled with smoke from oil spray onto my muffler.
> Under engine running oil pressure, that pinhole sprayed quite a bit of
> oil.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439591#439591
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh McKay" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Engine noise in Radio and Headset |
I have an Allegro 2000 E-LSA with a Rotax 912 UL engine using the
standard Rotax Voltage regulator. After 600 +/- hours I am getting a lot
of =9Cnoise=9D in my head sets when I use the radio
push-to-talk transmit button. The radio is an ICOM IC-A200 VHF
Transceiver using a Comant CI 121 VHF Antenna. When using the P-T button
to transmit I can actually hear the engine rpm, especially at low rpms.
At higher rpms the noise is not as bad but it is still there as noise.
The voltage regulator is wired per the Rotax engine wiring diagram with
the addition of two 10,000 Mf capacitors in parallel.
Can anyone give me advice as to how to eliminate this
=9Cnoise=9D?
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Allegro 2000 E-LSA N661WW
Rotax 912 UL 689 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine noise in Radio and Headset |
| From: | Larry Edson <larryedson(at)ymail.com> |
Hugh,
I would check the noise canceling capacitors. They do fail with exposure to
heat and humidity and they are not hard to check.
The following document will help you to understand the various failure modes
of the different types of capacitors.
http://www.electrocube.com/electrocube/assets/File/documentation-files/capac
itor-documents/electrocube-tech-bulletin-why-capacitors-fail.pdf
Good luck,
Larry Edson
N4362C
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:26 PM, Hugh McKay wrote:
>
> I have an Allegro 2000 E-LSA with a Rotax 912 UL engine using the standard
Rotax Voltage regulator. After 600 +/- hours I am getting a lot of =9C
noise=9D in my head sets when I use the radio push-to-talk transmit bu
tton. The radio is an ICOM IC-A200 VHF Transceiver using a Comant CI 121 VHF
Antenna. When using the P-T button to transmit I can actually hear the engi
ne rpm, especially at low rpms. At higher rpms the noise is not as bad but i
t is still there as noise. The voltage regulator is wired per the Rotax engi
ne wiring diagram with the addition of two 10,000 Mf capacitors in parallel.
>
> Can anyone give me advice as to how to eliminate this =9Cnoise
=9D?
>
> Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
> Senior Consultant
> Worldwide Engineering Inc.
> 4090 North NC Hwy. 16
> Denver, NC 28037
>
> Ph. 704-661-8271
> Fax 704-483-5466
> email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
> Allegro 2000 E-LSA N661WW
> Rotax 912 UL 689 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Engine noise in Radio and Headset |
Also worth checking all the earth connections, including the aerial for
corrosion, not just visually. Undo and clean all connections.
Particularly, check the regulator earth.
Regards
Brian Davies
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
Edson
Sent: 01 April 2015 02:41
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Engine noise in Radio and Headset
Hugh,
I would check the noise canceling capacitors. They do fail with
exposure to heat and humidity and they are not hard to check.
The following document will help you to understand the various failure
modes of the different types of capacitors.
http://www.electrocube.com/electrocube/assets/File/documentation-files/ca
pacitor-documents/electrocube-tech-bulletin-why-capacitors-fail.pdf
Good luck,
Larry Edson
N4362C
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:26 PM, Hugh McKay wrote:
I have an Allegro 2000 E-LSA with a Rotax 912 UL engine using the
standard Rotax Voltage regulator. After 600 +/- hours I am getting a lot
of =9Cnoise=9D in my head sets when I use the radio
push-to-talk transmit button. The radio is an ICOM IC-A200 VHF
Transceiver using a Comant CI 121 VHF Antenna. When using the P-T button
to transmit I can actually hear the engine rpm, especially at low rpms.
At higher rpms the noise is not as bad but it is still there as noise.
The voltage regulator is wired per the Rotax engine wiring diagram with
the addition of two 10,000 Mf capacitors in parallel.
Can anyone give me advice as to how to eliminate this
=9Cnoise=9D?
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Allegro 2000 E-LSA N661WW
Rotax 912 UL 689 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine noise in Radio and Headset Engine noise |
in Radio a
I agree with Brian, That was the cause on my bird. I disconnected the
leads,cleaned them and sprayed with "contact cleaner"...did the job
Dick Maddux
912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
The new formula changed the wear additive package (increased the levels of anti-wear
materials) and the most significant is a change of the base oil used. This
is now a custom formula for Rotax and not anything like the motorcycle blend
that they started with. It took more than 4 years of testing in Rotax engines.
I think it was 8 blends they tested long term in flight school engines back
at the factory that all ran up to TBO. They then selected the best one of
the batch."
http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aeroshell-Sport-Plus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE
"Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, The collaboration of BRP-Rotax
with Shell goes back to 2004. Our decision to work with the AeroShell team on
the development of the new formulation for AeroShell Oil Sport Plus 4 was based
on the benefits the new formulation would provide to our customers. This joint
development is supported by 40 years of Rotax aircraft engines, 25 years
and more than 50.000 engines produced within the Rotax 912/914 engines with more
than 45 million hours of flight."
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#441118
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
And only $14 per quart...
On 4/22/2015 8:04 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> The new formula changed the wear additive package (increased the levels of anti-wear
materials) and the most significant is a change of the base oil used.
This is now a custom formula for Rotax and not anything like the motorcycle blend
that they started with. It took more than 4 years of testing in Rotax engines.
I think it was 8 blends they tested long term in flight school engines
back at the factory that all ran up to TBO. They then selected the best one
of the batch."
>
>
> http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aeroshell-Sport-Plus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE
>
>
>
> "Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, The collaboration of BRP-Rotax
with Shell goes back to 2004. Our decision to work with the AeroShell team
on the development of the new formulation for AeroShell Oil Sport Plus 4 was
based on the benefits the new formulation would provide to our customers. This
joint development is supported by 40 years of Rotax aircraft engines, 25 years
and more than 50.000 engines produced within the Rotax 912/914 engines with
more than 45 million hours of flight."
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#441118
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Elling <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax HD Starter for a 912 on ebay |
I'm pretty sure it has less than 690 hours and it is in good working
condition. If anyone is interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh McKay" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
I would like to know what is wrong with the currently approved oils that
would warrant use of this oil? Doesn't make much sense to me, but I am sure
it does to Rotax!
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
http://www.wwegeo.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Guy Buchanan
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4
And only $14 per quart...
On 4/22/2015 8:04 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> The new formula changed the wear additive package (increased the levels of
> anti-wear materials) and the most significant is a change of the base oil
> used. This is now a custom formula for Rotax and not anything like the
> motorcycle blend that they started with. It took more than 4 years of
> testing in Rotax engines. I think it was 8 blends they tested long term
> in flight school engines back at the factory that all ran up to TBO. They
> then selected the best one of the batch."
>
> http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aeroshell-Sport-Plus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE
> "Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, The collaboration
> of BRP-Rotax with Shell goes back to 2004. Our decision to work with the
> AeroShell team on the development of the new formulation for AeroShell Oil
> Sport Plus 4 was based on the benefits the new formulation would provide
> to our customers. This joint development is supported by 40 years of Rotax
> aircraft engines, 25 years and more than 50.000 engines produced within
> the Rotax 912/914 engines with more than 45 million hours of flight."
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#441118
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | bjones <bjones(at)dmv.com> |
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PT09PT09CgoKCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
Nothing really wrong with the old Aero Shell, they justed wanted to tune it up
and make it better for its specific 912 application. They went through a lot of
time and money to try and find areas they could improve on.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441166#441166
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | Dennis Tubbs <dennistubbs7(at)gmail.com> |
I wonder if this means we can now burn 100LL AvGas in our 912 engines
without penalty of the previously required cleaning of the gear reduction
clutch and more frequent oil changes?
On Thu, Apr 23, 2015 at 4:47 AM, bjones wrote:
> Talking with Shell oil engineers at Sebring LSA EXPO shortly after Shell
&
> To tax introduced Sport Plus 4 oil for our 912s, an ashless dispersant w
as
> added to hold lead in suspension within the oil so the suspended lead can
> be carried out at oil change rather than allow excess lead to accumulate
as
> sludge in the gear case and elsewhere in the engine where it can cause
> damage.
> A lead dispersant additive package is not needed in motorcycle engine oi
l
> that we have been using in our Rotax 912 series engines, because most
> motorcycles use unleaded gas.
> Shell does not advertise that ashless depressant (AD) is in the oil
> formulated for our 912s because Lycoming & Continental owners might think
> the oil can be used in their aircraft engines, which is not the case
> because the anti wear additive package in Sport Plus 4 can cause combusti
on
> chamber deposits that lead to detonation in air cooled aircraft engines
> which have much greater blow by from wide piston to cylinder tolerances
> than our 912s.
> This is more specifc than some of the info we get and obviously it would
> be best to get the most current info directly from Shell or Rotax rather
> than second hand thru my understanding of the matter. If I catch up with
a
> Shell or Rotax rep here at S N F who is technically up on Sport Plus 4 I'
ll
> try to pick his brain and report back if different.
> BJ Kitfox IV, Rotax 912
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Hugh McKay <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
> Date:04/22/2015 7:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4
>
> hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
>
> I would like to know what is wrong with the currently approved oils that
> would warrant use of this oil? Doesn't make much sense to me, but I am
> sure
> it does to Rotax!
>
> Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
> Senior Consultant
> Worldwide Engineering Inc.
> 4090 North NC Hwy. 16
> Denver, NC 28037
>
> Ph. 704-661-8271
> Fax 704-483-5466
> email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
> http://www.wwegeo.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Guy Buchanan
> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 11:20 AM
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4
>
>
> And only $14 per quart...
>
> On 4/22/2015 8:04 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
> ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
> >
> > The new formula changed the wear additive package (increased the levels
> of
> > anti-wear materials) and the most significant is a change of the base
> oil
> > used. This is now a custom formula for Rotax and not anything like the
> > motorcycle blend that they started with. It took more than 4 years of
> > testing in Rotax engines. I think it was 8 blends they tested long ter
m
> > in flight school engines back at the factory that all ran up to TBO.
> They
> > then selected the best one of the batch."
> >
> >
> http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aeroshell-Sport-P
lus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE
> > "Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, =C3=A2=82=AC=C5
=93The collaboration
> > of BRP-Rotax with Shell goes back to 2004. Our decision to work with th
e
> > AeroShell team on the development of the new formulation for AeroShell
> Oil
> > Sport Plus 4 was based on the benefits the new formulation would provid
e
> > to our customers. This joint development is supported by 40 years of
> Rotax
> > aircraft engines, 25 years and more than 50.000 engines produced within
> > the Rotax 912/914 engines with more than 45 million hours of flight."
> >
> > --------
> > Roger Lee
> > Tucson, Az.
> > Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> > Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> > Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> > Cell 520-349-7056
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#441118
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | Gale Derosier <kgderosier(at)gmail.com> |
Great question! anyone with authority like to comment on that?
On Apr 23, 2015 4:19 PM, "Dennis Tubbs" wrote:
> I wonder if this means we can now burn 100LL AvGas in our 912 engines
> without penalty of the previously required cleaning of the gear reduction
> clutch and more frequent oil changes?
>
> On Thu, Apr 23, 2015 at 4:47 AM, bjones wrote:
>
>> Talking with Shell oil engineers at Sebring LSA EXPO shortly after Shell
>> & To tax introduced Sport Plus 4 oil for our 912s, an ashless dispersan
t
>> was added to hold lead in suspension within the oil so the suspended lea
d
>> can be carried out at oil change rather than allow excess lead to
>> accumulate as sludge in the gear case and elsewhere in the engine where
it
>> can cause damage.
>> A lead dispersant additive package is not needed in motorcycle engine
>> oil that we have been using in our Rotax 912 series engines, because mos
t
>> motorcycles use unleaded gas.
>> Shell does not advertise that ashless depressant (AD) is in the oil
>> formulated for our 912s because Lycoming & Continental owners might thin
k
>> the oil can be used in their aircraft engines, which is not the case
>> because the anti wear additive package in Sport Plus 4 can cause combust
ion
>> chamber deposits that lead to detonation in air cooled aircraft engines
>> which have much greater blow by from wide piston to cylinder tolerances
>> than our 912s.
>> This is more specifc than some of the info we get and obviously it would
>> be best to get the most current info directly from Shell or Rotax rather
>> than second hand thru my understanding of the matter. If I catch up with
a
>> Shell or Rotax rep here at S N F who is technically up on Sport Plus 4 I
'll
>> try to pick his brain and report back if different.
>> BJ Kitfox IV, Rotax 912
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>>
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Hugh McKay <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
>> Date:04/22/2015 7:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4
>>
>> hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
>>
>> I would like to know what is wrong with the currently approved oils that
>> would warrant use of this oil? Doesn't make much sense to me, but I am
>> sure
>> it does to Rotax!
>>
>> Hugh G. McKay III, P.E. Fellow, L.M. ASCE
>> Senior Consultant
>> Worldwide Engineering Inc.
>> 4090 North NC Hwy. 16
>> Denver, NC 28037
>>
>> Ph. 704-661-8271
>> Fax 704-483-5466
>> email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
>> http://www.wwegeo.com
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Guy Buchanan
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 11:20 AM
>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4
>>
t
>> >
>>
>> And only $14 per quart...
>>
>> On 4/22/2015 8:04 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
>> ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>> >
>> > The new formula changed the wear additive package (increased the level
s
>> of
>> > anti-wear materials) and the most significant is a change of the base
>> oil
>> > used. This is now a custom formula for Rotax and not anything like th
e
>> > motorcycle blend that they started with. It took more than 4 years of
>> > testing in Rotax engines. I think it was 8 blends they tested long
>> term
>> > in flight school engines back at the factory that all ran up to TBO.
>> They
>> > then selected the best one of the batch."
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aeroshell-Sport-
Plus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE
>> > "Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, =C3=A2=82=AC=C5
=93The
>> collaboration
>> > of BRP-Rotax with Shell goes back to 2004. Our decision to work with
>> the
>> > AeroShell team on the development of the new formulation for AeroShell
>> Oil
>> > Sport Plus 4 was based on the benefits the new formulation would
>> provide
>> > to our customers. This joint development is supported by 40 years of
>> Rotax
>> > aircraft engines, 25 years and more than 50.000 engines produced withi
n
>> > the Rotax 912/914 engines with more than 45 million hours of flight."
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Roger Lee
>> > Tucson, Az.
>> > Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
>> > Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
>> > Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>> > Cell 520-349-7056
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#441118
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >http://www --> htt=EF=BD -Matt Dralle, List
>> Admin.<=======
>>
>>
>>
>> <http://forums.matronics.com>
>>
>
> *
>
===========
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
100LL, lead is lead no matter what oil. If you are using 100LL then you need semi
synthetic and not full synthetic. If you are using 91 oct. then either oil
is okay.
For the 1500 hr. Engines or a 2000 hr. Engine using lead more than 30% of the time
the gearbox gets inspected and cleaned at 600 hrs. If you fail to do this
the overload clutch at about 800 hours will be leaded enough to be non functional.
The 2000 hr. Engines using91 oct. has a 1000 hr. Gearbox inspection.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441195#441195
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net |
Really?=0AShell's website merely confirms that the packaging has
been changed; the oil remains the same as previously. It's n
ot new.=0A=0A=0ADuncan McF.=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom:
Roger Lee =0ATo: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com=0ASe
nt: Wed, 22 Apr 2015 16:16=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: New Aer
o Shell Sport Plus 4=0A=0A=0A--> RotaxEngines-List message posted
by: "Roger Lee" =0A=0AThe new formula changed
the wear additive package (increased the levels of =0Aanti-wear
materials) and the most significant is a change of the base
oil used. =0AThis is now a custom formula for Rotax and
not anything like the motorcycle =0Ablend that they started wi
th. It took more than 4 years of testing in Rotax =0Aen
gines. I think it was 8 blends they tested long term in
flight school engines =0Aback at the factory that all ran
up to TBO. They then selected the best one of =0Athe ba
tch."=0A =0A =0Ahttp://www.transair.co.uk/sp+AeroShell-Sport-PLUS-4-Oil-Aero
shell-Sport-Plus-4-Oil-12x-1-Ltr-ROTAX-912-914-Series+2675CASE=0A =0A =0A
=0A"Thomas Uhr, General Manager BRP-Powertrain said, =C3=A2=82=AC
=C5=93The collaboration of =0ABRP-Rotax with Shell goes back to
2004. Our decision to work with the AeroShell =0Ateam on the
development of the new formulation for AeroShell Oil Sport
Plus 4 =0Awas based on the benefits the new formulation woul
d provide to our customers. =0AThis joint development is suppo
rted by 40 years of Rotax aircraft engines, 25 =0Ayears and
more than 50.000 engines produced within the Rotax 912/914 eng
ines =0Awith more than 45 million hours of flight."=0A=0A-------
-=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman - Maintenance
Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-574-10
80 TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this top
ic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441118#44
===========================
===========================
===========================
-Matt Dralle, Li
===========================
===========================
=====0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Elling <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
| Subject: | Old style 912ULS SMD module up on ebay |
I converted my older 912 USL to the soft-start start modules. These
have 690 hours on them and worked fine when I removed them. Rotax part
number 966 721. Lockwood sells these new for more than $1000.
They might be useful for spares but I recommend against trying to change
them in the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Duncan,
The oil is a new formulation. It isn't the same. The additive package and the base
stock has been altered. Got this right from Rotax. They have been working
on the new formula for the last 4 years and tried some different combinations.
The reason it took so long is that you have to have time to put a bunch of hours
on engines and then tear them down. The new red bottle is to help delineate
from the older formula in the black bottle.
I'll be back at Rotax in three weeks and see what additional info I can get.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441339#441339
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "flynn elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual but
ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We have since
cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of plugs and had
my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant, sometimes
between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet back to its usual
50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but no way,
as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small. A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of difference
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but no
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Thanks John, will pull them out and double check Again .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 06:25 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small. A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of difference
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but no
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
I run a single strand copper wire through them to insure they are clean.
Copper won't scratch the jet.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Thanks John, will pull them out and double check Again .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 06:25 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small. A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of difference
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but no
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Good thought John
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 08:57 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
I run a single strand copper wire through them to insure they are clean.
Copper won't scratch the jet.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Thanks John, will pull them out and double check Again .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 06:25 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small. A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of difference
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but no
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Idle jet clogged |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I agree. Pull the idle jet and run a small strand of copper wire through the extremely
tiny hole in the center. You may need to do the same with the mixture
orifice located in the corner of the bowl.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442464#442464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I agree. Pull the idle jet and run a small strand of copper wire through the extremely
tiny hole in the center. You may need to do the same with the mixture
orifice located in the corner of the bowl.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442465#442465
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Roger, I always called that the "enricher jet" in the "enricher well". Have no
idea what the correct nomenclature of them are.
I iced up the idle jets on my 912ULS in 2000 going in to Toad River, BC. Engine
quite as soon as it went through 3,000 rpm. Would start and run normal above
3,000, but not below it. Went across the Alaska Highway, got a cup of coffee,
came back and the engine idled like a sewing machine. Conditions were conducive
to icing. Learned then that 912's don't like the idle jet to be out of
tune.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442467#442467
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Thanks Roger, as soon as I can escape from work I will do just that and give
feed back.
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 23 May 2015 12:23 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
I agree. Pull the idle jet and run a small strand of copper wire through the
extremely tiny hole in the center. You may need to do the same with the
mixture orifice located in the corner of the bowl.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442465#442465
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
I have seen the problem you have described.=C2- When a carb idle jet beco
mes blocked, the engine will shake at RPM below 3,000.=C2- Then the float
s of both carbs begin to bounce, which contributes to the engine running ro
ugh (floats become incompetent).=C2- By removing the float bowls of both
carbs you can remove the idle jet in each carb for inspection under a brigh
t lite.=C2- I found a very small spec of fuel hose lining blocked a jet o
n one of my carbs.=C2- Probably happened when I installed a carb fuel hos
e on a barb fitting.Dave Weaver N912GR
On Friday, May 22, 2015 2:52 PM, Flynn Elliott wrote:
line.co.za>
Good thought John
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 08:57 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
I run a single strand copper wire through them to insure they are clean.
Copper won't scratch the jet.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Thanks John, will pull them out and double check Again .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 06:25 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small.=C2- A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of diffe
rence
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200=C2- and very rough below below 3000rpm yet
back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem but n
o
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
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-
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your input, every one seems to be in the same mind over this
issue. Will get on it asap and report back .
Flynn
Sent: 23 May 2015 06:26 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
I have seen the problem you have described. When a carb idle jet
becomes blocked, the engine will shake at RPM below 3,000. Then the
floats of both carbs begin to bounce, which contributes to the engine
running rough (floats become incompetent). By removing the float bowls
of both carbs you can remove the idle jet in each carb for inspection
under a bright lite. I found a very small spec of fuel hose lining
blocked a jet on one of my carbs. Probably happened when I installed a
carb fuel hose on a barb fitting.
Dave Weaver N912GR
On Friday, May 22, 2015 2:52 PM, Flynn Elliott
wrote:
Good thought John
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 08:57 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
I run a single strand copper wire through them to insure they are clean.
Copper won't scratch the jet.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Thanks John, will pull them out and double check Again .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hauck
Sent: 22 May 2015 06:25 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Insure both idle jets are completely open.
Over the years I have discovered a rough or no run 912ULS below 3000 rpm
is
idle jet related.
Idle jet is extremely small. A tiny bit of trash makes a lot of
difference
on fuel flow.
For what it is worth.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynn
elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Guys, could really use some help with a 912s.
After leaving my Foxbat for two months , she started up just fine as
usual
but ran as rough as hell untill 3000rpm and up where the motor runs
smooth
as silk.
As always the fuel had been drained and fresh put in after the layup. We
have since cleaned the carbs, put new float bowl gaskets, a fresh set of
plugs and had my A P balance the carbs, which were real close anyway.
The start up is instant as always has been, the mag drop is
inconsistant,
sometimes between 100 and 200 and very rough below below 3000rpm yet
back
to its usual 50rpm drop above.
Original plugs went back in and gave the same result.
I flew for half an hour yesterday in the hope of clearing the problem
but no
way, as I closed the throttle for landing we were back to a very rough
motor.
Any help would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Flynn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442457#442457
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
No virus found in this message.
C========================
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/23/15
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Here's another thought.
At mid range or less throttle, one of the carb
slides may stick in the barrel, unbalancing
the engine. Did you A&P try balancing
down in the throttle range where you see the
trouble?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442517#442517
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vernon mitchell" <vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Yes I did. We are now going to strip everything, to see if possibly there is
a bit of junk floating around somewhere.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 7:03 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
> Here's another thought.
>
> At mid range or less throttle, one of the carb
> slides may stick in the barrel, unbalancing
> the engine. Did you A&P try balancing
> down in the throttle range where you see the
> trouble?
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442517#442517
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912 rough running |
below 3
Flynn,
I had that problem once and finally narrowed it down to the carb operating
cables. One would stick during throttle reduction causing an imbalance. I
replaced the cables and problem solved. I tried to lube them first but that
didn't work well.
Just another idea.
Dick Maddux
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912 rough running |
below 3
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dick,
You're right and one thing we never seem to think about very often on the up front
side of an issue. Cables on engines that are getting older or live in humid
climates can get a little sticky. Just a little bit of friction from rust, corrosion
or even just a slightly bent cable will cause carb unbalance.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442527#442527
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vernon mitchell" <vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912 rough running |
below 3
Although it did not show up during the balancing, it is worthwhile
looking at it again.
Vernon
From: Catz631(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912
rough running below 3
Flynn,
I had that problem once and finally narrowed it down to the carb
operating cables. One would stick during throttle reduction causing an
imbalance. I replaced the cables and problem solved. I tried to lube
them first but that didn't work well.
Just another idea.
Dick Maddux
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912 rough running |
below 3
Hi Roger, we think we have the cable's covered, but as Vernon said we will
for sure double check.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 24 May 2015 03:33 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm912 rough
running below 3
Hi Dick,
You're right and one thing we never seem to think about very often on the up
front side of an issue. Cables on engines that are getting older or live in
humid climates can get a little sticky. Just a little bit of friction from
rust, corrosion or even just a slightly bent cable will cause carb
unbalance.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442527#442527
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Blow the carbs out with carb cleaner and then follow it with air pressure air.
Don't blow against the diaphragm with high pressure air.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442543#442543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Good advice, thanks Roger.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 25 May 2015 12:55 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Blow the carbs out with carb cleaner and then follow it with air pressure
air. Don't blow against the diaphragm with high pressure air.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442543#442543
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/29/15 |
| From: | howard cohen <howardnmn(at)aol.com> |
> On May 30, 2015, at 12:01 AM, RotaxEngines-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 15-05-29&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 15-05-29&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
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> ---
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> ----------------------------------------------------------
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> ----------------------
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Latest update,
Idle jets cleaned, copper wire passed through although nothing appeared in
terms of crud, ran motor seemed better, closed throttle for landing and we
were back to rough running.
This morning pulled idle jets again, able to see through one but not the
other. Cleaned the hell out of it over a white cloth yet no crud seemed to
appear although I can now clearly see through it.
Motor now idles at 1800 rpm reasonably well yet appears to be hunting
slightly whether on left mag, right mag, or both, mag drop 50rpm both.
All cables smooth and returning to stops.
Fuel lines flushed.
Fresh fuel.
Fresh filter
New plugs.
Maybe I am looking for a smooth smooth 912 idle that doesn't exist, we don't
have another at the field to compare.
It has been suggested that ignition packs are at fault although that seems
highly unlikely as the motor starts on the click and cruises super smooth.
Many thanks to all for help and suggestions.
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 25 May 2015 12:55 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Blow the carbs out with carb cleaner and then follow it with air pressure
air. Don't blow against the diaphragm with high pressure air.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442543#442543
-----
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Saw this kind of thing once on an aircraft that sat a while with auto
fuel in the tanks. The evaporating fuel left some residue which then
re-liquified somewhat in the new fuel and wreaked havoc on the fuel
system. Problem was the evidence was very hard to see and the effects
very subtle, as the residue basically "plated" the entire fuel system
with a very light coating of sludge, which would, after some hours,
always lead to either a fuel filter clogging, or a jet clogging, or
something similar. The only solution was to put a Facet fuel pump on the
tank exit line and re-circulate fuel through the tank for days on end,
replenishing the fuel occasionally, to clean out the tank sludge. I hope
this isn't your problem but I thought I'd put it out there.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
Now a glider pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Thanks for that Guy, if I don't solve this by other means then fortunately
the wing tanks can come out.
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy
Buchanan
Sent: 02 June 2015 06:34 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Saw this kind of thing once on an aircraft that sat a while with auto fuel
in the tanks. The evaporating fuel left some residue which then re-liquified
somewhat in the new fuel and wreaked havoc on the fuel system. Problem was
the evidence was very hard to see and the effects very subtle, as the
residue basically "plated" the entire fuel system with a very light coating
of sludge, which would, after some hours, always lead to either a fuel
filter clogging, or a jet clogging, or something similar. The only solution
was to put a Facet fuel pump on the tank exit line and re-circulate fuel
through the tank for days on end, replenishing the fuel occasionally, to
clean out the tank sludge. I hope this isn't your problem but I thought I'd
put it out there.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded Now a glider
pilot, too.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Flynn,
This isn't the ignition modules, wrong symptoms. This is either fuel or the gearbox.
The carbs are clean and nothing is in the mixture jet (corner of the float
bowl) or the idle jet? I take it the idle is in sync and it isn't set too
low an rpm? If the gearbox is a little on the loose side it could need a re-shim.
This can be intermittent due to load changes when there is an rpm change.
Have the float armatures that the float push up on been set to the proper height
of 10.5mm from the edge of the carb to the top of the float armature? (You
may have a tad bit of flooding). Could the floats themselves be a little heavy
causing some mild flooding?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442919#442919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Thanks Roger, would you clarify exactly where to measure 10.5mm. i.e
armatures up or down and what area of edge of carb.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 03 June 2015 01:48 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Flynn,
This isn't the ignition modules, wrong symptoms. This is either fuel or the
gearbox. The carbs are clean and nothing is in the mixture jet (corner of
the float bowl) or the idle jet? I take it the idle is in sync and it isn't
set too low an rpm? If the gearbox is a little on the loose side it could
need a re-shim. This can be intermittent due to load changes when there is
an rpm change. Have the float armatures that the float push up on been set
to the proper height of 10.5mm from the edge of the carb to the top of the
float armature? (You may have a tad bit of flooding). Could the floats
themselves be a little heavy causing some mild flooding?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442919#442919
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Flynn,
The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler and stand
it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now slide it over towards
the float armature so you can see the ruler marks next to the float armature.
The top of the float armature should be 10.5mm. If it is not just bend the
tab where the float needle is suspended to obtain the proper 10.5mm height.
This is what controls the fuel level in the bowl as the floats push up against
it. If it is off adjustment it can cause some flooding and rough running.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Roger,
When I have done this job in the past I used a special Rotax tool for the
correct set up.
It was drawn to my attention that the dimension you refer to varies with
engine type ie 912ul 912uls and 914. Your clarification on this may be
appreciated by many or just me.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 03 June 2015 15:01
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Flynn,
The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler and
stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now slide it
over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler marks next to the
float armature. The top of the float armature should be 10.5mm. If it is not
just bend the tab where the float needle is suspended to obtain the proper
10.5mm height. This is what controls the fuel level in the bowl as the
floats push up against it. If it is off adjustment it can cause some
flooding and rough running.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Rotax does have a special measurement tool the slips over the main jet nipple area.
I was doing this before that tool came out so just stuck with the mm ruler
and saved about $35. :)
Most don't want to spend the money on what many would consider a one time use part,
but either way works and gets the job done.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442940#442940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Roger,
My query was more about the dimension of 10.5 mm. I was told (and the tool
indicates) that different figures apply to the 912, 912s and 914 engines. I
am not too sure how critical this is but the dimensions on the tool are
quite different.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 03 June 2015 16:31
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Rotax does have a special measurement tool the slips over the main jet
nipple area. I was doing this before that tool came out so just stuck with
the mm ruler and saved about $35. :)
Most don't want to spend the money on what many would consider a one time
use part, but either way works and gets the job done.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442940#442940
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vernon mitchell" <vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Pete,
If that is the case, I would be very interested.
Vernon.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>
> Hi Roger,
> When I have done this job in the past I used a special Rotax tool for the
> correct set up.
> It was drawn to my attention that the dimension you refer to varies with
> engine type ie 912ul 912uls and 914. Your clarification on this may be
> appreciated by many or just me.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
> Lee
> Sent: 03 June 2015 15:01
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>
> Hi Flynn,
>
> The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler and
> stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now slide
> it
> over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler marks next to the
> float armature. The top of the float armature should be 10.5mm. If it is
> not
> just bend the tab where the float needle is suspended to obtain the proper
> 10.5mm height. This is what controls the fuel level in the bowl as the
> floats push up against it. If it is off adjustment it can cause some
> flooding and rough running.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
> Light Sport Repairman
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Vernon,
Some years ago I renewed all the maintainable bits of my carbs on a 912ul.
This included the brass pivot arm . At the time I rather naively assumed
that it was just a replacement item and fitted it as supplied in a Rotax
kit. I flew the aircraft and had no problem at all until I throttled back at
top of climb at which time the engine ran very rough. So rough that I
declared an emergency.
The simple fix was to correctly adjust the float levels in both carbs using
the Rotax tool.The tool has steps in it for the different 900 series
engines. I have absolutely no problem doing this with a tape measure as
Roger has described, but according to which engine you are working on
depends what dimension you should be working to. I look forward to Roger's
reply as he is the oracle on these matters.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of vernon
mitchell
Sent: 03 June 2015 18:21
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Pete,
If that is the case, I would be very interested.
Vernon.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>
> Hi Roger,
> When I have done this job in the past I used a special Rotax tool for
> the correct set up.
> It was drawn to my attention that the dimension you refer to varies
> with engine type ie 912ul 912uls and 914. Your clarification on this
> may be appreciated by many or just me.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Roger Lee
> Sent: 03 June 2015 15:01
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
> -->
>
> Hi Flynn,
>
> The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler
> and stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now
> slide it over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler
> marks next to the float armature. The top of the float armature should
> be 10.5mm. If it is not just bend the tab where the float needle is
> suspended to obtain the proper 10.5mm height. This is what controls
> the fuel level in the bowl as the floats push up against it. If it is
> off adjustment it can cause some flooding and rough running.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
> Light Sport Repairman
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vernon mitchell" <vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Yes Pete,
I will be looking forward to Rogers reply as well. Small things
like that, can make a big difference.
Vernon
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>
> Hi Vernon,
> Some years ago I renewed all the maintainable bits of my carbs on a 912ul.
> This included the brass pivot arm . At the time I rather naively assumed
> that it was just a replacement item and fitted it as supplied in a Rotax
> kit. I flew the aircraft and had no problem at all until I throttled back
> at
> top of climb at which time the engine ran very rough. So rough that I
> declared an emergency.
> The simple fix was to correctly adjust the float levels in both carbs
> using
> the Rotax tool.The tool has steps in it for the different 900 series
> engines. I have absolutely no problem doing this with a tape measure as
> Roger has described, but according to which engine you are working on
> depends what dimension you should be working to. I look forward to
> Roger's
> reply as he is the oracle on these matters.
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of vernon
> mitchell
> Sent: 03 June 2015 18:21
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
> -->
>
> Pete,
> If that is the case, I would be very interested.
> Vernon.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 4:34 PM
> To:
> Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Roger,
>> When I have done this job in the past I used a special Rotax tool for
>> the correct set up.
>> It was drawn to my attention that the dimension you refer to varies
>> with engine type ie 912ul 912uls and 914. Your clarification on this
>> may be appreciated by many or just me.
>> Pete
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Roger Lee
>> Sent: 03 June 2015 15:01
>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>>
>> -->
>>
>> Hi Flynn,
>>
>> The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler
>> and stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now
>> slide it over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler
>> marks next to the float armature. The top of the float armature should
>> be 10.5mm. If it is not just bend the tab where the float needle is
>> suspended to obtain the proper 10.5mm height. This is what controls
>> the fuel level in the bowl as the floats push up against it. If it is
>> off adjustment it can cause some flooding and rough running.
>>
>> --------
>> Roger Lee
>> Tucson, Az.
>> Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
>> Light Sport Repairman
>> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>> Cell 520-349-7056
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
This is an excellent example of what is great with Matronics. I too look
forward to Roger's response. Although rather than call him an "Oracle",
google answers "A response which is typically one that is ambiguous or
obscure".
I would prefer you use the term Pontiff as in officiating such as at
mass. I hold Rotax as the ultimate authority and this is no time for
ambiguous or obscure dogmatic answers. I like your method mentioned
above. I love the 912iS with Fadec.
John Cox.
On Wed, Jun 3, 2015 at 12:11 PM, vernon mitchell
wrote:
> vernon11(at)xsinet.co.za>
>
> Yes Pete,
> I will be looking forward to Rogers reply as well. Small things
> like that, can make a big difference.
> Vernon
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 8:35 PM
> To:
> Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>
>> pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
>>
>> Hi Vernon,
>> Some years ago I renewed all the maintainable bits of my carbs on a 912ul.
>> This included the brass pivot arm . At the time I rather naively assumed
>> that it was just a replacement item and fitted it as supplied in a Rotax
>> kit. I flew the aircraft and had no problem at all until I throttled back
>> at
>> top of climb at which time the engine ran very rough. So rough that I
>> declared an emergency.
>> The simple fix was to correctly adjust the float levels in both carbs
>> using
>> the Rotax tool.The tool has steps in it for the different 900 series
>> engines. I have absolutely no problem doing this with a tape measure as
>> Roger has described, but according to which engine you are working on
>> depends what dimension you should be working to. I look forward to
>> Roger's
>> reply as he is the oracle on these matters.
>> Pete
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of vernon
>> mitchell
>> Sent: 03 June 2015 18:21
>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>>
>> -->
>>
>>
>> Pete,
>> If that is the case, I would be very interested.
>> Vernon.
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2015 4:34 PM
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Roger,
>>> When I have done this job in the past I used a special Rotax tool for
>>> the correct set up.
>>> It was drawn to my attention that the dimension you refer to varies
>>> with engine type ie 912ul 912uls and 914. Your clarification on this
>>> may be appreciated by many or just me.
>>> Pete
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Roger Lee
>>> Sent: 03 June 2015 15:01
>>> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
>>>
>>> -->
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Flynn,
>>>
>>> The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler
>>> and stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now
>>> slide it over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler
>>> marks next to the float armature. The top of the float armature should
>>> be 10.5mm. If it is not just bend the tab where the float needle is
>>> suspended to obtain the proper 10.5mm height. This is what controls
>>> the fuel level in the bowl as the floats push up against it. If it is
>>> off adjustment it can cause some flooding and rough running.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Roger Lee
>>> Tucson, Az.
>>> Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
>>> Light Sport Repairman
>>> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>>> Cell 520-349-7056
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
A glimmer of hope, pulled the jets yet again and this time also the mixture
needles and gave them a clean and a light blast of air, along with the brass
down pipe attached to the carb body, reassembled and fired up, smooth as
silk at idle and throttle progression for around fifteen seconds then back
to lumpy running. Think I dislodged a tiny piece of something which may have
got pushed back with the fuel flow. I get the impression the culprit is
sitting in the carb body, will now have to take the carbs off for a strip
down be it that maybe only one carb is causing the problems.
Oh ,and float levels are spot on.
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 03 June 2015 04:01 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Flynn,
The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler and
stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now slide it
over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler marks next to the
float armature. The top of the float armature should be 10.5mm. If it is not
just bend the tab where the float needle is suspended to obtain the proper
10.5mm height. This is what controls the fuel level in the bowl as the
floats push up against it. If it is off adjustment it can cause some
flooding and rough running.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
The 912UL and ULS are the same measurements. They are the same carbs just different
jetting.
When the carbs come off you must flush through every orifice and jet in the bowl
and carb body and leave no stone unturned. It only takes a very tiny piece of
debris to cause this rough running. Your symptoms do sound like you move a piece
of debris, but after it runs it moves again.
I absolutely know you don't want to hear this, but I think you missed something
on the cleaning. Every little hole and crevice needs to be flushed then blown
out with air. Blow the air in more than one direction where possible. I have
seen a few owners have difficulty here because they left one stone unturned.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but no "Oracle" here just an owner like everyone
else and happy to pass on what I learn in all the Rotax schools and what
I have been able to see over the years. matter of fact I just spent all last
week back at Rotax for another school.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442958#442958
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Roger,
I have now had the chance to read up on some old documents that I have and
can now confirm that the setup dimensions for the floats on the 912l and
912s engines are both the same ie 10.5 mm but the 914 is quite different.
Pete
ps I cannot quite relate the dimensions on the Rotax setup tool to the
dimension you quote because it is measuring in a different place, so can't
quote the equivalent figure for the 914. Perhaps you have that figure to
pass on to the Forum.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 04 June 2015 01:32
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
The 912UL and ULS are the same measurements. They are the same carbs just
different jetting.
When the carbs come off you must flush through every orifice and jet in the
bowl and carb body and leave no stone unturned. It only takes a very tiny
piece of debris to cause this rough running. Your symptoms do sound like you
move a piece of debris, but after it runs it moves again.
I absolutely know you don't want to hear this, but I think you missed
something on the cleaning. Every little hole and crevice needs to be flushed
then blown out with air. Blow the air in more than one direction where
possible. I have seen a few owners have difficulty here because they left
one stone unturned.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but no "Oracle" here just an owner like
everyone else and happy to pass on what I learn in all the Rotax schools and
what I have been able to see over the years. matter of fact I just spent all
last week back at Rotax for another school.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442958#442958
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 |
| From: | stephan cassel <stephan.cassel(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Pete,
Hope everything is well.
You right. Just a small adjustment: the tool are the same but measurements
are different.
Heavy Maintenance 73-00-00 3.3.8 shows this in detail.
BTW LN-STE now 600 hours. Greece this summer.
--
Mvh
Stephan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Pete,
Page 30 in chapter 73-00-00 Heavy Maint Manual has the details. I will try
to attach to this message.
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Jeffers
Sent: 04 June 2015 10:35
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Hi Roger,
I have now had the chance to read up on some old documents that I have and
can now confirm that the setup dimensions for the floats on the 912l and
912s engines are both the same ie 10.5 mm but the 914 is quite different.
Pete
ps I cannot quite relate the dimensions on the Rotax setup tool to the
dimension you quote because it is measuring in a different place, so can't
quote the equivalent figure for the 914. Perhaps you have that figure to
pass on to the Forum.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 04 June 2015 01:32
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
The 912UL and ULS are the same measurements. They are the same carbs just
different jetting.
When the carbs come off you must flush through every orifice and jet in the
bowl and carb body and leave no stone unturned. It only takes a very tiny
piece of debris to cause this rough running. Your symptoms do sound like you
move a piece of debris, but after it runs it moves again.
I absolutely know you don't want to hear this, but I think you missed
something on the cleaning. Every little hole and crevice needs to be flushed
then blown out with air. Blow the air in more than one direction where
possible. I have seen a few owners have difficulty here because they left
one stone unturned.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but no "Oracle" here just an owner like
everyone else and happy to pass on what I learn in all the Rotax schools and
what I have been able to see over the years. matter of fact I just spent all
last week back at Rotax for another school.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442958#442958
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Roger,
Carbs now stripped again, thoroughly cleaned out , new o rings ect.
Roughness at idle remains the same. Just for the hell of it we turned the
mixture screw in to lean the mixture, at just on 1/2 a turn out I now have a
very smooth idle ! rpm through the rest of the range is unafected.
Will I be running the motor to lean , from what info I get the mixture screw
only effects low rpm operation i.e idle.
Thanks
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 04 June 2015 02:32 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
The 912UL and ULS are the same measurements. They are the same carbs just
different jetting.
When the carbs come off you must flush through every orifice and jet in the
bowl and carb body and leave no stone unturned. It only takes a very tiny
piece of debris to cause this rough running. Your symptoms do sound like you
move a piece of debris, but after it runs it moves again.
I absolutely know you don't want to hear this, but I think you missed
something on the cleaning. Every little hole and crevice needs to be flushed
then blown out with air. Blow the air in more than one direction where
possible. I have seen a few owners have difficulty here because they left
one stone unturned.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but no "Oracle" here just an owner like
everyone else and happy to pass on what I learn in all the Rotax schools and
what I have been able to see over the years. matter of fact I just spent all
last week back at Rotax for another school.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442958#442958
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "OS" <sieber56(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Flynn,
There is a product called "Colortune spark plug".
You can't use them under load but it's really neat device for setting
mixtures.
I used them extensively in the distant past tuning Weber and Dell'Orto
carbs.
Among others, Amazon sells them here
http://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for-14mm-Spark-Plug/dp/B000E9VGNM
This one's a 14mm thread size.
Regards,
Otto Szorenyi
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 08:17
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Hi Roger,
Carbs now stripped again, thoroughly cleaned out , new o rings ect.
Roughness at idle remains the same. Just for the hell of it we turned the
mixture screw in to lean the mixture, at just on 1/2 a turn out I now have a
very smooth idle ! rpm through the rest of the range is unafected.
Will I be running the motor to lean , from what info I get the mixture screw
only effects low rpm operation i.e idle.
Thanks
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 04 June 2015 02:32 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
The 912UL and ULS are the same measurements. They are the same carbs just
different jetting.
When the carbs come off you must flush through every orifice and jet in the
bowl and carb body and leave no stone unturned. It only takes a very tiny
piece of debris to cause this rough running. Your symptoms do sound like you
move a piece of debris, but after it runs it moves again.
I absolutely know you don't want to hear this, but I think you missed
something on the cleaning. Every little hole and crevice needs to be flushed
then blown out with air. Blow the air in more than one direction where
possible. I have seen a few owners have difficulty here because they left
one stone unturned.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but no "Oracle" here just an owner like
everyone else and happy to pass on what I learn in all the Rotax schools and
what I have been able to see over the years. matter of fact I just spent all
last week back at Rotax for another school.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442958#442958
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "OS" <sieber56(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Flynn,
While looking around on the Net I also found this interesting looking toy
that might interest you.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/plx-dm6-afr-sensor-module-combo.html
Otto S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 08:17
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Hi Roger,
Carbs now stripped again, thoroughly cleaned out , new o rings ect.
Roughness at idle remains the same. Just for the hell of it we turned the
mixture screw in to lean the mixture, at just on 1/2 a turn out I now have a
very smooth idle ! rpm through the rest of the range is unafected.
Will I be running the motor to lean , from what info I get the mixture screw
only effects low rpm operation i.e idle.
Thanks
Flynn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Flynn,
The mixture screw is more for the low rpm.
When you cleaned the carbs did you remove the mixture screw on the bottom and blow
through this orifice? Did you remove or at least blow through the mixture
jet located in the corner of the bowl in both directions?
Is the mixture screw now out 1.5 turns and was it when all this started?
If you put a set of carb sync gauges on do the carbs sync at idle or is one carb
considerably off over the other?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443218#443218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 08 June 2015 04:12 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Flynn,
The mixture screw is more for the low rpm.
When you cleaned the carbs did you remove the mixture screw on the bottom
and blow through this orifice?
Yes
Did you remove or at least blow through the mixture jet located in the
corner of the bowl in both directions?
Yes,removed and pumped fuel and air from both ends.
Is the mixture screw now out 1.5 turns and was it when all this started?
No, just .5 out at the moment to get smooth idle, at 1 .5 idle is rough.
Setting was 1.5 before this started, prior to this issue they have never
been touched.
If you put a set of carb sync gauges on do the carbs sync at idle or is one
carb considerably off over the other?
Carb sync gauges are on the way to me, should have them in a few days.
Thanks
Flynn
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443218#443218
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Thanks Otto.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of OS
Sent: 08 June 2015 04:01 PM
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Flynn,
While looking around on the Net I also found this interesting looking toy
that might interest you.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/plx-dm6-afr-sensor-module-combo.html
Otto S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Flynn
Elliott
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2015 08:17
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
-->
Hi Roger,
Carbs now stripped again, thoroughly cleaned out , new o rings ect.
Roughness at idle remains the same. Just for the hell of it we turned the
mixture screw in to lean the mixture, at just on 1/2 a turn out I now have a
very smooth idle ! rpm through the rest of the range is unafected.
Will I be running the motor to lean , from what info I get the mixture screw
only effects low rpm operation i.e idle.
Thanks
Flynn
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mojavjoe(at)comcast.net |
=EF=BBdose any one on the list have experience with boost bottles on rot
ax two cycle engines
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 914 High Altitude Performance |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
We recently did a flight at a Density Altitude of 15000 ft. We were unable to
maintain 30 in manifold pressure, the fuel flow was about 6.4 gph and the throttle
position was 100%. We subsequently adjusted the wastegate cable less than
1 turn and replaced all the spring style clamps on our airbox pressure and manifold
pressure instrumentation hoses with wraps of safety wire and now we easily
get 30 in manifold pressure with fuel flow of 5.5 gph and throttle position
around 70%.
When looking into this, we referred to the 914 performance charts found in chapter
5 of the Operators Manual and the critical flying altitude in chapter 2.
Chapter 2 states that continuous performance manifold pressure is available up
to 16000 feet when operated at ISA temperature and pressure. Yet the Performance
graph for non-standard conditions, shows when the temperature difference
from standard condition is 0 (so standard ISA conditions) the power drops from
74kw at SL to 66 kw at 16000 ft. This seems to conflict with the critical altitude
statement.
And we have a copy of an early 914 Operators Manual (1996 05 10) where the same
chart shows constant power at 0 deg difference up to 16000 ft. It also shows
the same example as the current chart, Max continuous power at 10000ft, and the
result is 74.9 kw versus the current chart that results in 72 kw.
Just looking for an explanation of the charts and definition of critical altitude.
Thanks
Jim & Heather
Europa XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444658#444658
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 582 grey head ignition |
| From: | Bart Rond <bartrond(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my restoration
project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions failed
in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause of this failure.
It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this problem?
Cheers, Bart
Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
I'm going to say broken ignition (not plug) wire. See this on the 912 all the time.
Use a continuity tester with needles to poke through the insulation. Work
the wires to find the break.
Guy B.
Sent from my iPod
> On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:45 AM, Bart Rond wrote:
>
>
> Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
>
> I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my restoration
project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
> A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions failed
in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause of this failure.
> It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
> We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this problem?
>
> Cheers, Bart
>
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
Bart,
I use a guy in Naples, FL named Rick Davis. He's one of the old pros of 4 & 2 stroke
motors. I'll see if I can find his web site for you....
https://rotaxrick.wordpress.com/
He can help you with just about anything. Best idea is to email him. He stays busy!
Bill Catalina
blumax008(at)aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bart Rond <bartrond(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 12, 2015 2:46 pm
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 582 grey head ignition
Hi
fellow 2-stroke flyers,
I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully)
testflights with my restoration project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey
head.
A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions
failed in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause of
this failure.
It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it
doesn't!
We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this
problem?
Cheers, Bart
Verstuurd vanaf mijn
iPad
- The RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -
Navigator to browse
Un/Subscription,
Photoshare, and much much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
Forums!
http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 ULS Fuel Pressure |
| From: | Stan Tew <stan2tew(at)gmail.com> |
My 912 ULS mounted in my Rans S7-S has 438 hr. I replaced the old style
mechanical pump as recommended by Rotax. I have an electric fuel pump and
fuel pressure gauge. I usually take off with the electric pump running in
addition to the mechanical pump. When I level off to cruise I turn off the
electric pump. My pressure usually is about 4.5 psi. Last week I was flying
and noticed the EIS warning light and it identified my fuel pressure to be
about 0.9 psi. I quickly turned on the electric pump. The pressure went to
about 3.5 psi. I flew back and landed without incident. The engine never
faltered.
Any suggestion on how to test the mechanical pump? Any suggestion on what
the problem might be? I have not had opportunity to remove the cowl to make
any visual checks.
Stan Tew
N29TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
You can put a 10 psi gauge inline with the fuel at the balance tube assembly or
if you don't have one then just plumb it inline. If your electric pump is plumbed
in series it has a check valve that could cause an issue until it gets turned
on.
I doubt it's the mechanical pump, but you won't know for sure until you put a gauge
inline. Possibly the fuel pressure gauge, again an unknow until you put a
gauge inline.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444772#444772
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 912 ULS Fuel Pressure |
"T" a mechanical pressure gauge into your fuel line.
john h
Fort Lewis, WA
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan
Tew
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2015 3:47 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure
My 912 ULS mounted in my Rans S7-S has 438 hr. I replaced the old style
mechanical pump as recommended by Rotax. I have an electric fuel pump
and fuel pressure gauge. I usually take off with the electric pump
running in addition to the mechanical pump. When I level off to cruise I
turn off the electric pump. My pressure usually is about 4.5 psi. Last
week I was flying and noticed the EIS warning light and it identified my
fuel pressure to be about 0.9 psi. I quickly turned on the electric
pump. The pressure went to about 3.5 psi. I flew back and landed without
incident. The engine never faltered.
Any suggestion on how to test the mechanical pump? Any suggestion on
what the problem might be? I have not had opportunity to remove the cowl
to make any visual checks.
Stan Tew
N29TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flynn Elliott" <foxflynn(at)worldonline.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
Hi Roger,and all who offered advice,
The rough running is now in the history books.
After cleaning the carbs yet again, blowing air around and through every
nook and cranny all over a white towel with no crud to be seen whatsoever, I
reassembeled the carbs with new jet 'o' rings etc. Put the carbs back on and
balanced with gauges then a borrowed Carbmate (which is fantastic to use)
Fired up the motor and to my great surprise my 912 was back to her old self,
smooth as silk.
I sooo wish we found some crapp in the carbs if only to tell me the problem
!!
Many many thanks for the help.
Flynn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 03 June 2015 04:01 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm
Hi Flynn,
The carb must be off the engine and held upside down. Take a MM ruler and
stand it upright (straight up) on the outside lip of the carb. Now slide it
over towards the float armature so you can see the ruler marks next to the
float armature. The top of the float armature should be 10.5mm. If it is not
just bend the tab where the float needle is suspended to obtain the proper
10.5mm height. This is what controls the fuel level in the bowl as the
floats push up against it. If it is off adjustment it can cause some
flooding and rough running.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442934#442934
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 rough running below 3000 rpm |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Flynn,
Glad it worked out.
Sometimes when you clean the carbs the tiniest spec goes flying out and the eye
never sees it. It may have been a passage that only had a partial obstruction
to cause the roughness. It's happened to me. I have learned not to piecemeal
everything and just bugle down and just the job top to bottom and 100% and that
eliminates that as a potential problem. Over all it will take less time in
the long run and be a lot less frustrating.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444807#444807
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Bart, Don't know if you've had any luck with this issue, but here are some
more things to check.
Wire/Coil and Wire/Boot connection. Trim a quarter inch or so (6mm) from
the each end of the wire so that the screw inside the coil and boot can get
a firm connection. While you have the boots off, check them for proper
resistance, they should be 5 ohms. If they are too much more consider
replacing them. You can get generics that are 1/10 the price Rotax charges.
Test the spark plug leads, too. They're wire core and s/b zero ohms.
Test your mag switches for intermittent failure. Just use an ohm meter and
flip the switch a couple of dozen times and see if the switch has a failure.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
>
> I'm going to say broken ignition (not plug) wire. See this on the 912 all
> the time. Use a continuity tester with needles to poke through the
> insulation. Work the wires to find the break.
>
> Guy B.
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
> > On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:45 AM, Bart Rond wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
> >
> > I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my
> restoration project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
> > A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions
> failed in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause
> of this failure.
> > It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
> > We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this problem?
> >
> > Cheers, Bart
> >
> > Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
-Andre Gide
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
so that the screw inside the coil and boot can get a firm connection. While you
have the boots off, check them for proper resistance, they should be 5 ohms.
If they are too much more consider replacing them. You can get generics that are
1/10 the price Rotax charges.
Rick....
You just mentioned something that is dear to all our hearts. ($$$).
Could you tell us where to buy coil generics at 1/10th. the price of similar Rotax.
I was just shocked by the price of a single Bing 54 carb.
Thank You!
Bill in Tallahassee
blumax008(at)aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 19, 2015 9:43 am
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: 582 grey head ignition
Bart, Don't know if you've had any luck with this issue, but here are some more
things to check.
Wire/Coil and Wire/Boot connection. Trim a quarter inch or so (6mm) from the each
end of the wire so that the screw inside the coil and boot can get a firm connection.
While you have the boots off, check them for proper resistance, they
should be 5 ohms. If they are too much more consider replacing them. You can
get generics that are 1/10 the price Rotax charges. Test the spark plug leads,
too. They're wire core and s/b zero ohms.
Test your mag switches for intermittent failure. Just use an ohm meter and flip
the switch a couple of dozen times and see if the switch has a failure.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
I'm going to say broken ignition (not plug) wire. See this on the 912 all the
time. Use a continuity tester with needles to poke through the insulation. Work
the wires to find the break.
Guy B.
Sent from my iPod
> On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:45 AM, Bart Rond < bartrond(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
>
> I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my restoration
project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
> A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions failed
in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause of this
failure.
> It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
> We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this problem?
>
> Cheers, Bart
>
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>
>
>
>
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Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
-Andre Gide
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Thomson <peterlthomson(at)gmail.com> |
Friend has been having problems with "vapor lock" particularly at take off
power.
Aircraft is Pelican, high wing, L and R wing tanks feeding through a
L-Both-R-OFF selector to a gascolator, then through two Facet pumps in
series to carburetors, with airbox. Return line is T-eed back to the
gascolator. Most lines fire-sleeved.
Could the problem be fixed by taking the fuel return back to a wing tank ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Vapor lock 914 |
For what it is worth, the LAA approved arrangement for the 914 in a
Europa takes the return line back to the main tank situated in the
fuselage. There is substantial return flow which means that you are
getting rapid supply as far as the pressure relief valve of fuel at the
(hopefully low) temperature of the main tank. In >1000hrs flying this
arrangement in often very hot conditions, have never had serious vapour
lock problems. Regards , David Joyce
On 2015-07-20 13:54, Peter Thomson wrote:
> Friend has been having problems with "vapor lock" particularly at take off power.
>
> Aircraft is Pelican, high wing, L and R wing tanks feeding through a L-Both-R-OFF
selector to a gascolator, then through two Facet pumps in series to carburetors,
with airbox. Return line is T-eed back to the gascolator. Most lines fire-sleeved.
>
> Could the problem be fixed by taking the fuel return back to a wing tank ?
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
[2] http://forums.matronics.com
[3] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vapor lock 914 |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Is the gascolator forward of the firewall (like cessnas) or in the fuselage (like
old pipers or my Europa)? Location and temperature make a difference.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444976#444976
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vapor lock 914 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Why does he think it is vapor lock? It could be something different especially
at take off when things haven't had a good opportunity to get really hot.
Why couldn't it be fuel starvation?
All the Flight Design's have their recirculation line go back into the gascolator
which is in the lower part of the engine compartment. None of them anywhere
has ever had an issue. There is plenty of cool fuel moving through here to prevent
vapor lock. If your gascolator were to be to near a heat source then it
could be affected. Depending on which of his fuel lines are not fire sleeved then
maybe this may contribute. You can plumb the recirculation line back to a
header tank, the wing or the gascolator and all are acceptable.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444985#444985
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl <b.carl(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure |
HI Stan
One year ago I had the same symptoms that you had. I believe this was
caused by the fact that the electric pump has a slightly higher pressure
than the engine pump and this causes the engine pump to stop pumping
while the electric pump is "on." This stagnation of fuel in the engine
pump during TO/Climb cause that fuel to vaporize and a momentary loss of
pressure when the electric pump is turned "OFF".
I've moved my gascolator, filter and boost pump to the rear compartment
and firesleeved all the lines. I also ran a return line to my right wing
tank. Seam to have helped some but I still see the pressure drop and the
occasional warning light when I turn the boost pump "OFF". Never
affected the engine but always ready to reselect to boost pump.
After shutdown on a hot day burning auto fuel, put an ear close to the
engine pump; bet you will hear the fuel boiling.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Stan Tew
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2015 6:47 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure
My 912 ULS mounted in my Rans S7-S has 438 hr. I replaced the old
style mechanical pump as recommended by Rotax. I have an electric fuel
pump and fuel pressure gauge. I usually take off with the electric pump
running in addition to the mechanical pump. When I level off to cruise I
turn off the electric pump. My pressure usually is about 4.5 psi. Last
week I was flying and noticed the EIS warning light and it identified my
fuel pressure to be about 0.9 psi. I quickly turned on the electric
pump. The pressure went to about 3.5 psi. I flew back and landed without
incident. The engine never faltered.
Any suggestion on how to test the mechanical pump? Any suggestion on
what the problem might be? I have not had opportunity to remove the cowl
to make any visual checks.
Stan Tew
N29TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vapor lock 914 |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Peter,
That is not vapor lock!
That is IMPROPER part insulation.
1- Two boost pumps are not required.
2- The boost pump should be after the fuel selector.
3- What size lines are being used?
4- Gascolators... I hate them! They must be located at the very lowest
point in the fuel system. They are a pain to maintain. Their are AD's
concerning the safety wire procedure and the drain valve. They give a
false sense of security. And, they don't work very well.
My guess is you are flooding the carb. Not starving it.
Do you have a fuel flow gauge? Check what the MAX fuel flow is from the
engine manufacturer and comparing it to what you are seeing.
Since you are both a gravity feed and a boost pump feed flooding is more
than likely your issue. So, to answer your question about a return line
back to the tank! YES, that would be my suggestion also.
Next question: What FACET pump do you have? Some of their pumps stop fuel
flow or have a high resistance to fuel flow once the pump is turned off.
Next question: Many builders think bigger and more is better. What fuel
flow rate does your pump supply?
Next question: Did the designer say boost pump?
Prove to yourself that it is vapor lock. Bet you can't! IF you think it
is vapor lock use AvGas and wrap aluminum foil crumpled around the hoses.
You can also build a "COOL CAN"... A coil of copper tubing in a metal
coffee can where you pack in Dry Ice. This will definitely eliminate vapor
lock and increase the SG of the fuel and increase the HP.
But, my money is still on flooding.
Barry
On Monday, July 20, 2015, Peter Thomson wrote:
> Friend has been having problems with "vapor lock" particularly at take off
> power.
>
> Aircraft is Pelican, high wing, L and R wing tanks feeding through a
> L-Both-R-OFF selector to a gascolator, then through two Facet pumps in
> series to carburetors, with airbox. Return line is T-eed back to the
> gascolator. Most lines fire-sleeved.
>
> Could the problem be fixed by taking the fuel return back to a wing tank ?
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
| From: | Bart Rond <bartrond(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Richard and Guy,
Thanks for the tips, you were both right! So far I was able to track it down
to either the generator or the wires to ignition box 2. Sunday we switched o
ut the ign.box for a spare one and the problem stayed the same. I also measu
red the coils in the generator, the kill switches and the wires that connect
them, no problem there. When I interchanged the connectors of the wires to t
he kill switches, the problem moved to the other switch.
Today I mounted new connectors in the white and green wire between the gener
ator and the e-box, no change, the engine still stopped with ign2 ON and ign
1 OFF. Not all the time tough, but after a few minutes of taxiing!!
Then I was sure I had it fixed, when I cut the white and green wire close to
the generator housing and connected new wires instead. The engine kept runn
ing all the time on both ignitions!!
So I cut the engine to put insulation on all connections and secure all wire
s with tie-ripps, and then the downer occurred: the engine only ran on ign.1
and ign.2 did NOT function anymore!
Enough to go absolutely insane....
To be continued!
Bart
Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
> Op 19 jul. 2015 om 15:42 heeft Richard Girard het vo
lgende geschreven:
>
> Bart, Don't know if you've had any luck with this issue, but here are some
more things to check.
> Wire/Coil and Wire/Boot connection. Trim a quarter inch or so (6mm) from t
he each end of the wire so that the screw inside the coil and boot can get a
firm connection. While you have the boots off, check them for proper resist
ance, they should be 5 ohms. If they are too much more consider replacing th
em. You can get generics that are 1/10 the price Rotax charges. Test the spa
rk plug leads, too. They're wire core and s/b zero ohms.
> Test your mag switches for intermittent failure. Just use an ohm meter and
flip the switch a couple of dozen times and see if the switch has a failure
.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm going to say broken ignition (not plug) wire. See this on the 912 all
the time. Use a continuity tester with needles to poke through the insulati
on. Work the wires to find the break.
>>
>> Guy B.
>>
>> Sent from my iPod
>>
>> > On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:45 AM, Bart Rond wrote:
>> >
m>
>> >
>> > Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
>> >
>> > I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my r
estoration project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
>> > A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions
failed in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause o
f this failure.
>> > It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn'
t!
>> > We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this proble
m?
>> >
>> > Cheers, Bart
>> >
>> > Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> xEngines-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
> Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
> -Andre Gide
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure |
I have exactly the same experience, this was after fitting the new
mechanical pump which operates at a slightly higher pressure, it didn't
happen before the new pump was fitted.?
The drop in pressure does not effect the engine performance but am wary
of switching the electric pump back on if required.
Regards Dave Park G-LDVO
On 21 Jul 2015, at 22:29, Carl wrote:
> HI Stan
> One year ago I had the same symptoms that you had. I believe this was
caused by the fact that the electric pump has a slightly higher pressure
than the engine pump and this causes the engine pump to stop pumping
while the electric pump is "on." This stagnation of fuel in the engine
pump during TO/Climb cause that fuel to vaporize and a momentary loss of
pressure when the electric pump is turned "OFF".
> I've moved my gascolator, filter and boost pump to the rear
compartment and firesleeved all the lines. I also ran a return line to
my right wing tank. Seam to have helped some but I still see the
pressure drop and the occasional warning light when I turn the boost
pump "OFF". Never affected the engine but always ready to reselect to
boost pump.
> After shutdown on a hot day burning auto fuel, put an ear close to the
engine pump; bet you will hear the fuel boiling.
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stan Tew
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2015 6:47 PM
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 ULS Fuel Pressure
>
> My 912 ULS mounted in my Rans S7-S has 438 hr. I replaced the old
style mechanical pump as recommended by Rotax. I have an electric fuel
pump and fuel pressure gauge. I usually take off with the electric pump
running in addition to the mechanical pump. When I level off to cruise I
turn off the electric pump. My pressure usually is about 4.5 psi. Last
week I was flying and noticed the EIS warning light and it identified my
fuel pressure to be about 0.9 psi. I quickly turned on the electric
pump. The pressure went to about 3.5 psi. I flew back and landed without
incident. The engine never faltered.
>
> Any suggestion on how to test the mechanical pump? Any suggestion on
what the problem might be? I have not had opportunity to remove the cowl
to make any visual checks.
>
> Stan Tew
> N29TD
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 582 grey head ignition |
Enough to go absolutely insane....
Tell me about it Bart.
I've been flying two cycle UL's since '78. I thought I knew all the mysteries of
the 2-cycle engine. Right.
Had a carb leaking fuel badly on my Hornet. Changed it. The replacement leaked
just as bad. Changed to a 3rd. carb...same thing.
All three were rather old carbs that used Ethanol back when I couldn't get E-free.
Finally, I took one (Bing 54) off my Trike that I knew worked okay and fitted it.
Didn't leak.
I consulted two old time 2-cycle operators: Beaver Borne in Reserve, LA and Rick
Davis in Naples, FL. They too were at a loss.
I took all carbs apart & found eroded Viton tips we're pretty sure was due to Ethanol
& causing the Viton to not seal properly - and causing fuel overflow into
float bowl and engine failure.
Bottom line, don't use E fuel. Photo was taken in 2010 when I couldn't get any
E-free fuel.
blumax008(at)aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bart Rond <bartrond(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 21, 2015 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: 582 grey head ignition
Hi Richard and Guy,
Thanks for the tips, you were both right! So far I was able to track it down to
either the generator or the wires to ignition box 2. Sunday we switched out the
ign.box for a spare one and the problem stayed the same. I also measured the
coils in the generator, the kill switches and the wires that connect them, no
problem there. When I interchanged the connectors of the wires to the kill switches,
the problem moved to the other switch.
Today I mounted new connectors in the white and green wire between the generator
and the e-box, no change, the engine still stopped with ign2 ON and ign1 OFF.
Not all the time tough, but after a few minutes of taxiing!!
Then I was sure I had it fixed, when I cut the white and green wire close to the
generator housing and connected new wires instead. The engine kept running all
the time on both ignitions!!
So I cut the engine to put insulation on all connections and secure all wires with
tie-ripps, and then the downer occurred: the engine only ran on ign.1 and
ign.2 did NOT function anymore!
Enough to go absolutely insane....
To be continued!
Bart
Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
Op 19 jul. 2015 om 15:42 heeft Richard Girard < aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> het volgende
geschreven:
Bart, Don't know if you've had any luck with this issue, but here are some more
things to check.
Wire/Coil and Wire/Boot connection. Trim a quarter inch or so (6mm) from the each
end of the wire so that the screw inside the coil and boot can get a firm connection.
While you have the boots off, check them for proper resistance, they
should be 5 ohms. If they are too much more consider replacing them. You can
get generics that are 1/10 the price Rotax charges. Test the spark plug leads,
too. They're wire core and s/b zero ohms.
Test your mag switches for intermittent failure. Just use an ohm meter and flip
the switch a couple of dozen times and see if the switch has a failure.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
I'm going to say broken ignition (not plug) wire. See this on the 912 all the
time. Use a continuity tester with needles to poke through the insulation. Work
the wires to find the break.
Guy B.
Sent from my iPod
> On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:45 AM, Bart Rond < bartrond(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi fellow 2-stroke flyers,
>
> I am currently working on testruns and (hopefully) testflights with my restoration
project Pulsar 1, equipped with Rotax 582 grey head.
> A few testflights had to be cancelled, because one of the two ignitions failed
in the run-up before take-off. So far, we could not find the cause of this
failure.
> It does not fail constantly, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't!
> We suspect one of the ignition coils. Does anyone recognise this problem?
>
> Cheers, Bart
>
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>
>
>
>
===========
-
xEngines-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
===========
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank"> http://forums.matronics.com
===========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
--
Believe those who are seeking the truth, doubt those who find it.
-Andre Gide
D============================================= Engines-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List D============================================= //forums.matronics.com D============================================= ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=============================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Turbo lubrication question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
I believe that on the older 914s the turbo has a scavenge pump.
However I am looking through the part catalog to find a replacement and I
see that in the latest on there is a pressure line from the oil pump and a
suction line...the implication being that the scavenge pump has been
removed??
Also I cant find the scavenge pump in the turbo section of the catalog.
Does anyone know where to find the part no?
Second question: has anyone run a turbo with a reduced or straight through
"silencer". I have read that turbos have a strong sound suppressing
effect. My reason is that I was wondering whether I could loose the weight
of the silencer.
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turbo lubrication question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry...please cancel my last - I worked it out
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 7:52 AM, William Daniell <
wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote:
> I believe that on the older 914s the turbo has a scavenge pump.
>
> However I am looking through the part catalog to find a replacement and I
> see that in the latest on there is a pressure line from the oil pump and a
> suction line...the implication being that the scavenge pump has been
> removed??
>
> Also I cant find the scavenge pump in the turbo section of the catalog.
>
> Does anyone know where to find the part no?
>
> Second question: has anyone run a turbo with a reduced or straight
> through "silencer". I have read that turbos have a strong sound
> suppressing effect. My reason is that I was wondering whether I could
> loose the weight of the silencer.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 08/02/15 |
| From: | Kissellr <kissellr(at)ameritech.net> |
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oMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgIFRvdGFsIE1lc3NhZ2VzIFBvc3RlZCBTdW4gMDgv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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPcKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDC
oMKgwqDCoCAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0KXy09wqAgVGhhbmsgeW91IGZv
ciB5b3VyIGdlbmVyb3VzIHN1cHBvcnQhCl8tPcKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDC
oMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpf
LT3CoMKgIC0tPiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY29udHJpYnV0aW9uCl8tPT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09CgoK
Cgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Radiator Cap |
This is old news, but I recently confirmed the 912 radiator cap is BMW
part number 17112345074. I purchased it here
<http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/bmw-radiator-cap-17112345074-part.html>for
about half the cost of the Rotax unit.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
Now a glider pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Radiator Cap |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Guy,
Do you happen to know if the BMW part has the same pressure pop-off
as the currently supplied Rotax part?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445823#445823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Radiator Cap |
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
Well I haven't tested it but it has the 1.2 stamped on top and looks and feels
identical. I suspect it's the same part.
Guy
Sent from my iPod
> On Aug 11, 2015, at 7:30 AM, rampil wrote:
>
>
> Hi Guy,
> Do you happen to know if the BMW part has the same pressure pop-off
> as the currently supplied Rotax part?
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445823#445823
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | "michaelrosenberg" <mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com> |
Hi guys, I know this thread was from a while ago, however did you ever find the
solution Froghair. This is the only post I have found with identical problems
to mine. It is only on cold start.... However, I am from South Australia and
a cold day is in the order of 60F. Hardly cold enough to warrant preheating the
engine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446415#446415
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Most of the time these starting issues come from only a couple of things.
Weak battery and or too small a size wire for the starting system and or battery.
Carbs not synced,
Idle rpm too low or too high,
Old black colored starter. The newer gold colored high torque starter is better.
It doesn't turn faster just harder.
Using a primer system instead of the regular choke setup. (This is a big one.)
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446418#446418
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | "michaelrosenberg" <mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com> |
Cheers,
The battery is brand new, cables are fine etc. Carbs are synced and floats are
fine. It does have the black start motor however it cranks over quite hard and
starts almost instantaneously,
The issue is when it starts it has an ungodly resonance for around 10-30 seconds.
In that time it won't accept any throttle response until it comes out of that
period then it runs smooth.
There are a few reports on the forums of indentical issues, however none seem to
report back with the issue or solution.
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446419#446419
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
Try increasing the idle speed or open the throttle a touch more at startup
Dave
> On Aug 25, 2015, at 8:16 PM, michaelrosenberg wrote:
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> The battery is brand new, cables are fine etc. Carbs are synced and floats are
fine. It does have the black start motor however it cranks over quite hard and
starts almost instantaneously,
>
> The issue is when it starts it has an ungodly resonance for around 10-30 seconds.
In that time it won't accept any throttle response until it comes out of
that period then it runs smooth.
>
> There are a few reports on the forums of indentical issues, however none seem
to report back with the issue or solution.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446419#446419
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Micky, What is your startup procedure? How do you set the starting
carburetors and the throttle? What is your normal, all warmed up idle speed
?
Rick Girard
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 8:16 PM, michaelrosenberg wrote:
> mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com>
>
> Cheers,
>
> The battery is brand new, cables are fine etc. Carbs are synced and float
s
> are fine. It does have the black start motor however it cranks over quite
> hard and starts almost instantaneously,
>
> The issue is when it starts it has an ungodly resonance for around 10-30
> seconds. In that time it won't accept any throttle response until it come
s
> out of that period then it runs smooth.
>
> There are a few reports on the forums of indentical issues, however none
> seem to report back with the issue or solution.
>
> Michael
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446419#446419
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
=9CBlessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.=9D
Groucho Marx
<http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/43244.Groucho_Marx>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | "michaelrosenberg" <mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com> |
I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different advice.
All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe from Froghair
on the initial post of this thread.
Basically, cold weather starry is:
Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
Enriched on
Throttle closed
Start
Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or shacking
happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding throttle has no
effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has zero response. Engine
probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No throttle response means I
can not effect this.
Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will idle around
16-1800RPM.
Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get the engine
running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what would happen and
exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back to low RPM and resonated
again. I kind of expected it to happen in this scenario, how ever the starting
issue I have no control over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | Pete Christensen <pchristensen10(at)austin.rr.com> |
I may have had something similar. It turned out to be a sticking float that took
a few shakes to unstick.
Pete
Leander, Tx
Kitfox 3
> On Aug 25, 2015, at 8:16 PM, michaelrosenberg wrote:
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> The battery is brand new, cables are fine etc. Carbs are synced and floats are
fine. It does have the black start motor however it cranks over quite hard and
starts almost instantaneously,
>
> The issue is when it starts it has an ungodly resonance for around 10-30 seconds.
In that time it won't accept any throttle response until it comes out of
that period then it runs smooth.
>
> There are a few reports on the forums of indentical issues, however none seem
to report back with the issue or solution.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446419#446419
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
Michael,
1000 RPM is way too low for idle on the Rotax 80 hp engine. It will always
run rough below about 1800 RPM, and idle speeds lower than that are very
hard on the gear box. I am not at all surprised to hear that your idle is
quite rough at 1,000 RPM. Your idle should be 1800-2000 RPM, minimum. If
it runs smooth at that speed, it's fine.
Regards,
Paul Kuntz
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 7:31 PM, michaelrosenberg wrote:
> mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com>
>
> I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different
> advice. All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe
> from Froghair on the initial post of this thread.
>
> Basically, cold weather starry is:
>
> Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
> Enriched on
> Throttle closed
> Start
>
> Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or
> shacking happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding
> throttle has no effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has
> zero response. Engine probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No
> throttle response means I can not effect this.
>
> Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will
> idle around 16-1800RPM.
>
> Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
>
> I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get
> the engine running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what would
> happen and exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back to low RPM
> and resonated again. I kind of expected it to happen in this scenario, how
> ever the starting issue I have no control over.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
Oops, sorry, I missed the part about no throttle response, which is
obviously the real problem. Yes, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue, but
I don't have any good ideas to offer.
Paul Kuntz
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 9:03 PM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> Michael,
>
> 1000 RPM is way too low for idle on the Rotax 80 hp engine. It will
> always run rough below about 1800 RPM, and idle speeds lower than that are
> very hard on the gear box. I am not at all surprised to hear that your
> idle is quite rough at 1,000 RPM. Your idle should be 1800-2000 RPM,
> minimum. If it runs smooth at that speed, it's fine.
>
> Regards,
> Paul Kuntz
>
> On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 7:31 PM, michaelrosenberg <
> mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com> wrote:
>
>> mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com>
>>
>> I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different
>> advice. All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe
>> from Froghair on the initial post of this thread.
>>
>> Basically, cold weather starry is:
>>
>> Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
>> Enriched on
>> Throttle closed
>> Start
>>
>> Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or
>> shacking happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding
>> throttle has no effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has
>> zero response. Engine probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No
>> throttle response means I can not effect this.
>>
>> Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will
>> idle around 16-1800RPM.
>>
>> Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
>>
>> I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get
>> the engine running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what would
>> happen and exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back to low RPM
>> and resonated again. I kind of expected it to happen in this scenario, how
>> ever the starting issue I have no control over.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt3(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
Have you tried this. This technique was developed by a neighbor and fellow
Kitfox builder owner. His engine is one of the very early 912 ULSs - long
before slipper clutches and soft start modules. I also use it on my 80 hp
and it starts running very smoothly. This is the method. Throttle full
out, pull choke - ignitions off, crank for ten to fifteen seconds. Wait ten
or fifteen seconds throttle in one to 1-1/2 turns. Ignitions both on, pull
choke crank. Mine usually starts over revved a tad but smooth as glass.
Lowell
--------------------------------------------------
From: "michaelrosenberg" <mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 7:31 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start
>
>
> I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different
> advice. All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe
> from Froghair on the initial post of this thread.
>
> Basically, cold weather starry is:
>
> Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
> Enriched on
> Throttle closed
> Start
>
> Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or
> shacking happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding
> throttle has no effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has
> zero response. Engine probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No
> throttle response means I can not effect this.
>
> Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will
> idle around 16-1800RPM.
>
> Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
>
> I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get
> the engine running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what would
> happen and exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back to low
> RPM and resonated again. I kind of expected it to happen in this scenario,
> how ever the starting issue I have no control over.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
My own experience with my second 912, an early 912S (before the ULS
designation). No clutch and HD starter.
Engine started violently shaking both carbs enough to aeriate the fuel
in the float bowls. This is why throttle above idle only caused more
shake, aggravated the situation, and no increase in rpm. Before Rotax
came out with the clutch/HD starter upgrade (at owners expense) my start
procedure was by the book with the exception of cracking the throttle to
about where 2,000 rpm would be. This helped some, but the startups were
still violent and put a lot of stress on the engine and the airframe.
When the update became available for the 912S, I had Ronnie Smith of
South Mississippi Light Aircraft, Lucedale, MS, install. From that
point on, the 912S started like a baby when book procedures were
followed, summer and winter. Idled nice and smooth.
My current 912ULS had the clutch and HD starter from the factory. Never
had a start problem with it as long as I kept the spark plug gaps closed
up to about .020".
john h
Kolb MKIII, N101AB
Hyder, Alaska/Stewart, BC
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Kuntz
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold
start
Oops, sorry, I missed the part about no throttle response, which is
obviously the real problem. Yes, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue,
but I don't have any good ideas to offer.
Paul Kuntz
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 9:03 PM, Paul Kuntz
wrote:
Michael,
1000 RPM is way too low for idle on the Rotax 80 hp engine. It will
always run rough below about 1800 RPM, and idle speeds lower than that
are very hard on the gear box. I am not at all surprised to hear that
your idle is quite rough at 1,000 RPM. Your idle should be 1800-2000
RPM, minimum. If it runs smooth at that speed, it's fine.
Regards,
Paul Kuntz
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 7:31 PM, michaelrosenberg
wrote:
I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different
advice. All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe
from Froghair on the initial post of this thread.
Basically, cold weather starry is:
Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
Enriched on
Throttle closed
Start
Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or
shacking happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding
throttle has no effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has
zero response. Engine probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No
throttle response means I can not effect this.
Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will
idle around 16-1800RPM.
Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get
the engine running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what
would happen and exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back
to low RPM and resonated again. I kind of expected it to happen in this
scenario, how ever the starting issue I have no control over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
-
xEngines-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | "AmphibFlyer" <SeaRey(at)AbstractConcreteWorks.com> |
froghair wrote:
> Wondered if anyone has experienced this:
>
> On cold start, anytime OAT is below ~60F, with full choke (enricher), engine
will start but shake violently as though not running on all cylinders. I have
to coax it to take any throttle increase for up to ~30 seconds. As soon as it
will take throttle, it breaks out of this 'harmonic' and runs normally and will
do so until allowed to cool back down to ambient temperature.
Mick, another possibility is that the gearbox needs shimming. There's a mandatory
600 hour inspection of the gearbox, but it can need this work even at 300 hours
if the engine has often been allowed to idle below about 1800 rpm, especially
with a heavy prop.
The gearbox contains a dog clutch that's supposed to accommodate the strong pulsing
when a cylinder fires at low rpm, but what wears first is the Belleville
washers (which are springs that look like washers). When they get loose, or when
the prop shaft gets excessively worn, the cylinders will fire, but the rpm
won't increase to the point where the spark timing can advance from the retarded
start timing to the advanced run timing. (I forget the specific degrees.) When
this happens the engine is likely to rock violently. If it does start, it
will then run smoothly and will restart when still warm. For a while, until the
wear gets worse; then it won't start, period.
One sign of this condition is that the engine might make a chicka-chicka-chicka
sound when it's trying to start.
The remedy is to remove the gearbox and add shims until the Belleville washers
are tight enough. Gearbox removal is easy, but you'll need a good Rotax shop to
do the shimming.
A somewhat similar condition is when the sprag clutch (the starter drive) gets
worn. When that happens the engine will fire once and the starter will disengage
immediately--too soon to keep the crankshaft turning until the next cylinder
can fire. That's quite violent on the 100 hp 912S, but I've not seen it on the
80 hp 912 or the 914. (The gearbox repair is much easier to do, by the way.)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446442#446442
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | bjones <bjones(at)dmv.com> |
CiAgICAKSSByZWNlbnRseSBoYWQgY2FyYnMgZ29uZSB0aHJ1IGJ5IGFhIGV4cGVyaWVuY2VkIFJv
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQoKCgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 80hp violent vibration on cold start |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
What do you expect!
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015, michaelrosenberg
wrote:
> mickyrosenberg(at)icloud.com >
>
> I have tried many different options for starting from a lot of different
> advice. All options end with the same issue which is perfectly describe
> from Froghair on the initial post of this thread.
>
> Basically, cold weather starry is:
>
> Fuel pump on (5secs or leave on)
> Enriched on
> Throttle closed
> Start
>
> Engine cranks over well and immediately fires and starts, resonance or
> shacking happens for 10-30 seconds. Slowely removing enriched or adding
> throttle has no effect. I can pith the throttle to the firewall and has
> zero response. Engine probably resonated at around 1000RPM(ish)...... No
> throttle response means I can not effect this.
>
> Once everything smoothed out I warm it up at approx 2000RPM and it will
> idle around 16-1800RPM.
>
> Once it moved out of this resonant time, it purrs.
>
> I can only put it down to a fuel delivery or enriched issue. Once I get
> the engine running smooth at idle, I added some enriched to see what would
> happen and exactly the same symptoms occurred. Engine wound back to low RPM
> and resonated again. I kind of expected it to happen in this scenario, how
> ever the starting issue I have no control over.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=446424#446424
>
>
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/02/15 |
| From: | gtblu <gtbjbell(at)gmail.com> |
G
On 03/10/2015 5:13 PM, "RotaxEngines-List Digest Server" <
rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
> the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
> editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 15-10-02&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 15-10-02&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 10/02/15: 0
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/02/15 |
| From: | gtblu <gtbjbell(at)gmail.com> |
Zxxcxz
.
.z
On 03/10/2015 5:13 PM, "RotaxEngines-Lismt Digest Server" <
rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 15-10-02&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 15-10-02&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 10/02/15: 0
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Hi all,
since I'm planning to move (the much lighter) LiFePo battery
http://www.accu-24.de/ALIANT-LiFePO4-Ultralight-Battery-X4-13-2-V-92-Ah from the baggage compartment onto the right footwell and having to change the Rotax sprug clutch this winter (lots of kick backs on starting), I'm also thinking about installing a heavy duty starter like this one http://silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Anlasser.htm .
I seem to remember, that it's most advisable to retrofit it on the 912 S with its
higher compression.
Did anyone of you install such a heavy duty starter on the 912 or 914 or is it
just overkill for this engine?
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
Europa XS TG 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447868#447868
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Roland.
Get the Soft start model, from Con Air.
Problem solved.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447869#447869
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Hi Alan,
I watched the Bully Hawk Video - also a good idea to cure the kick back, but one
also needs to deactivate one ignition circuit on starting to get the best results.
I'll also consider this - thanks.
Regards
Roland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447871#447871
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi, Roland.
I take it you have a Key ignition switch and not two separate on and off switches.
If so you can still use the same switch as L and R mag,
All you need do is deactivate the starter position and take those wires to a separate
Starter Button.
Job Done.
The Soft Start then takes about 20 minutes to fit.
Its an easy job to do.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447882#447882
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
Or you can disable the hard start module by routing it through a switch
you'll keep off when you start. In my case it was avionics power, which
I don't switch on until after start. Once started I switch on the
avionics, which also activates my B, non soft start, module. That
allowed me to use my existing key switch as before. It also allows me to
kill the B module before I shut down, which helps as well.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
Now a glider pilot, too.
On 10/13/2015 8:12 AM, Alan Carter wrote:
>
> Hi, Roland.
>
> I take it you have a Key ignition switch and not two separate on and off switches.
> If so you can still use the same switch as L and R mag,
> All you need do is deactivate the starter position and take those wires to a
separate Starter Button.
> Job Done.
> The Soft Start then takes about 20 minutes to fit.
> Its an easy job to do.
>
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447882#447882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
So does that mean if you switch off the avionics master because you have an
electrical fault that you lose one of your ignition systems? Hm...
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy
Buchanan
Sent: 13 October 2015 17:49
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914?
-->
Or you can disable the hard start module by routing it through a switch
you'll keep off when you start. In my case it was avionics power, which I
don't switch on until after start. Once started I switch on the avionics,
which also activates my B, non soft start, module. That allowed me to use my
existing key switch as before. It also allows me to kill the B module before
I shut down, which helps as well.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
Now a glider pilot, too.
On 10/13/2015 8:12 AM, Alan Carter wrote:
> -->
>
> Hi, Roland.
>
> I take it you have a Key ignition switch and not two separate on and off
switches.
> If so you can still use the same switch as L and R mag, All you need
> do is deactivate the starter position and take those wires to a separate
Starter Button.
> Job Done.
> The Soft Start then takes about 20 minutes to fit.
> Its an easy job to do.
>
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447882#447882
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
Yes it does, but my avionics are simple in the extreme and very unlikely
to catch fire. Any shorts should be handled by the fuses. Not optimal, I
know, but best I could do without a major rework. (The install was a
retrofit.)
Guy
On 10/13/2015 10:51 AM, Brian Davies wrote:
>
> So does that mean if you switch off the avionics master because you have an
> electrical fault that you lose one of your ignition systems? Hm...
>
> Brian Davies
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy
> Buchanan
> Sent: 13 October 2015 17:49
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914?
>
> -->
>
> Or you can disable the hard start module by routing it through a switch
> you'll keep off when you start. In my case it was avionics power, which I
> don't switch on until after start. Once started I switch on the avionics,
> which also activates my B, non soft start, module. That allowed me to use my
> existing key switch as before. It also allows me to kill the B module before
> I shut down, which helps as well.
>
> Guy Buchanan
> Ramona, CA
> Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
> Now a glider pilot, too.
>
>
> On 10/13/2015 8:12 AM, Alan Carter wrote:
>> -->
>>
>> Hi, Roland.
>>
>> I take it you have a Key ignition switch and not two separate on and off
> switches.
>> If so you can still use the same switch as L and R mag, All you need
>> do is deactivate the starter position and take those wires to a separate
> Starter Button.
>> Job Done.
>> The Soft Start then takes about 20 minutes to fit.
>> Its an easy job to do.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447882#447882
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty starter for Rotax 914? |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
This starter is longer and depending on your engine mounts may be too long.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447917#447917
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | engine numbers..? |
Forgive the ignorance- I have just returned to the fold and find 914UL
engines have
now a S/N in the 6,773,xxx range. Hospital time and a long sojourn have
left me
wondering what happened to my S/N 4.418.xxx 914UL engine.=99
Save meFerg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Arblast PV50 Propeller C/S Motor Replacment. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hello All on Forum.
This is for Arblast PV50 flyes if you ever need a new motor, maybe worth copying.
First of all i must say a big thank you to Ms Tendai Mugweni who gave me an excellent
help and service, as an Ex CAA Examiner I rarely would give 10/10 but the
score is 11.
So if you need a motor this is the place to go.
Electro Mechanical Systems Ltd
www.ems-limited.co.uk
Tel: 0118 9817391
Arblast Propellers as you know have ceased trading so spares are difficult to
obtain, I have been looking for the small electric motor which changes the propellers
pitch.
After many e-mail and phone calls i have finally tracked down the components, I
have done all the hard work so here it is my PV50 flyers.
CS Unit Drive.
Its a small electric motor which drives a planetary gear head which then mechanically
turns a jack screw forward or backwards either increases or decreases the
blade pitch angle.
The amount of and aft movement of the jack screw is controlled by two micro switches,
connected to the DC motor and reversing the polarity changes the motors
direction of rotation .
This is the motor and fitting kit, the Gear Head is at extra cost and not listed
here, but its 246 to 1 drive ratio gear head if you need one.
Note the first two numbers refer to the motors diameter ie 23 or 22 the last two
numbers are the voltage 12 or 06.
Seems to me that all the PV50s CS unit had 6 volt motors on the aircrafts 12v system
as mine is and i expect yours is, when measured gives 11.9v at the terminal
on the motor.
On the motors end a small plastic plate cover states FAULHABER Made in Germany
, 2224U006SR, R59, 3909.
The R59 denotes the motor has coils at the segment end.
The 2224U0006SR isnt a like for like replacement for the 2224U006SR-59, due to
the special option 59, which means that the motor has coils for end/commutator
seg secured with special adhesive
So your identical replacement would be a 2224U006SR, R59, 3909, But i have used
the 2224U006SR. at 67.5 which works well, But an upgrade to match the aircrafts
system of 12v would be the 2342S12CR at 167.5
but in doing this you would need the G23m16 fitting kit to attach it to the Gear
Head, ( i have not done this yet but think the fitting kit is the blue alloy
collar in which the two ie Motor and Gear Head are joined in with adhesive.)
The Gear Head is 246 to 1 as used by Arblast but it is possible to have a 406 to
1 which is slower but puts the motor under less load, but better go for the
more expensive 12v motor.
Back at the rear of this lot is a housing with the two Micro Switches which have
a diode across two of the terminal, The mirco switches levers run along a shaft
and are set at the propeller Fine and Course stops.
Removal of Motor.
To remove the Motor, unsolder or cut the two wires as close as possible to the
motors terminals, Remove the tape from the shaft.
The Blue Alloy Collar with light pressure applied to a pair of grips turn the Collar
to brake seal, then unscrew by hand, Gently withdraw the motor and pinion
from the gear box.
Be careful not to disturb the planetary gears as you withdraw motor and pinion,
and the fine metal gear retaining washer in front of the gear box.
With the motor now out, On a table look for and remove the fine hair wire U clip.
Which is Bond in at one end, ( God knows what this is for, seems to doing
nothing as i see it) ????
Be careful not to loose it. ( But if you can see a use for it, i would like to
know.)
Remove the Blue Collar from the motor, by unscrewing the 3 small screws inside
the collar.
Now pull the collar off from the motor, the two surfaces may have been bonded with
Loctite 638, mine was not. (But it is Recommend as listed in text.)
Now you have the little motor in your hand.
Replace in reverse order.
When bonding the motor to the gearhead we suggest you use adhesive Loctite 638
this offers high strength, high temperature resistance and is ideal for bonding
small gaps.
Before re soldering the wire two the motor, hold the wires on terminals to check
the prop works in correct direction/ toggle switch up for fine, toggle down
for course.
change wires round the other way if it dose not work, check, then finally solder
wires onto terminals.
No Workshop Manual is Available , So that,s it.
DC Motors.
1-4pcs 2342S012CR 119.08 + VAT Due to stock availability in Switzerland (subject
to prior sales) the lead time is estimated at 2 3 working weeks from receipt
of an
order/payment.
1-4pcs 2224U006SR 56.25 + VAT Due to stock availability at EMS(subject to prior
sales) therefore please consider 2-3 working days from receipt of an order/payment.
Fitting kits are generally provided free of charge when ordered with a gearhead
but when ordered separately please note the buy prices would be as follows;
G23m18 (Kit required when fitting a 2224U006SR to 23/1 gearhead) 18.85 + VAT please
consider 2-3 working weeks
G23m16 ( Kit required when fitting a 2342S012CR to 23/1 gearhead) 21.15 + VAT please
consider 2-3 working weeks
12v Motor,2342S012CR DC Motor plus Fitting Kit G23M1623/1 168.28 including VAT
please consider 2-3 working weeks
Kindest regards
Ms Tendai Mugweni
Electro Mechanical Systems Ltd
www.ems-limited.co.uk
Tel: 0118 9817391
I have done all the hard work Mr Jeffers as instructed .Happy days
Regards.
Alan[/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448008#448008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spark Plug Wires |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
I was putting the plug wire back on one of the lower spark plugs and the wire just
crumbled in my hand. It appears all the bottom plug wires are brittle and
need replaced. Do I need to replace the upper ones too? All the wires are original,
650 hours on them.
I have gotten the old spark plug cap off and it appears reusable. The wire appears
to be normal wire core spark plug wire that I can get at an auto parts house.
My question is how to get the old wire out of the ignition coil. I understand
the wire twists into the coil like it does the spark plug cap, but there is tubing
similar to heat shrink on the wire and over the end of the coil. The tubing
seems to prevent "just untwisting" the wire from the coil. Do I cut the wire
near the coil and slit the tubing to get it off? Can I reuse the tubing?
If not, is it just heat shrink and what size? Do I need to purchase it from
Rotax?
Can the wires be removed from the coils without taking the modules and coils off
the engine?
The spark plug cap measures the proper resistance, so can it be reused? How do
you measure the pull off force required? Is there a source for the caps that
is less expensive than Rotax?
Thanks for your help.
Jim Butcher
Europa XS
Rotax 914 650 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448420#448420
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Wemmering <wanastuffit(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Wires |
I would replace all upper and lower without question. All caps also. This ho you
maintain a good running engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During |
November!
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through
the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution
counts!
This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along
with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are over 30 different gifts
to choose from - more than we've ever had before! There's something for everyone,
to be sure. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the
vary members and vendors that you'll find on the Matronics Lists and they have
been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous members include:
Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com
Andy is a very generous guy and I encourage you to visit his web site. I would
like publicly to thank Andy for his generous support of the Lists again this
year!!
Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including
using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford
you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying
Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Wires |
Jim
In my case I replaced the wires with Rotax 2 stroke wires from Spruce. I
could not find any info that said the 2 stroke wires could not be used.
They are much cheaper than the 4 stroke wires. Have had them on my engine for
2 years now. I replaced all the end caps with the exact same endcaps (per a
google search of the cap number) at about 1/2 to 1/3 the price that Rotax
charges. You can check the caps for resistance using an ohmmeter and decide
if you want to keep any. In my case I just decided to replace all.
I also reused the tubing that goes over the wires. I shot a little Kroil
under the tube and used a vice to get the tubing off. It wasn't easy but it
worked.
The wires look nice and work great correcting a mis fire I was having.
Dick Maddux
Rotax 912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Wires |
| From: | Lowell Fitt <lcfitt3(at)gmail.com> |
Jim,
It has been years since I did what you plan to do. First, as I recall, I
found the ourltside diameter of the insulation to be unique to Rotax. In
other words, I had to search a bit to find the wire needed - that is if you
want to reuse the wire to coil sleeves. Regarding the sleeves, I found
that they were glued to both wire and coil fittings. I was able to massage
them to break the bond. At least in my case, the glue hardened to a
brittle consistency and could be separated. What you might try is a piece
of stiff wire with the end flattened with a hammer, then rounded to spoon
profile and smoothed. Use this to push between the sleeve and the coil
fitting. The wires indeed are removable by unscrewing them from the coil.
I was able to re-use the spark plug caps. I have a friend that did find
after market caps. I am out of the country now with limited resources, but
try searching for Aerobuilders. A link should come up out if Caldwell,
Idaho. There should be a phone number there. His name is Mark Ferkin.
Lowell Fitt
On Oct 31, 2015 8:45 AM, "h&jeuropa" wrote:
> butcher43(at)att.net>
>
> I was putting the plug wire back on one of the lower spark plugs and the
> wire just crumbled in my hand. It appears all the bottom plug wires are
> brittle and need replaced. Do I need to replace the upper ones too? All
> the wires are original, 650 hours on them.
>
> I have gotten the old spark plug cap off and it appears reusable. The
> wire appears to be normal wire core spark plug wire that I can get at an
> auto parts house.
>
> My question is how to get the old wire out of the ignition coil. I
> understand the wire twists into the coil like it does the spark plug cap,
> but there is tubing similar to heat shrink on the wire and over the end of
> the coil. The tubing seems to prevent "just untwisting" the wire from the
> coil. Do I cut the wire near the coil and slit the tubing to get it off?
> Can I reuse the tubing? If not, is it just heat shrink and what size? Do
> I need to purchase it from Rotax?
>
> Can the wires be removed from the coils without taking the modules and
> coils off the engine?
>
> The spark plug cap measures the proper resistance, so can it be reused?
> How do you measure the pull off force required? Is there a source for the
> caps that is less expensive than Rotax?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Jim Butcher
> Europa XS
> Rotax 914 650 hours
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448420#448420
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Wires |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I would replace all wires. Do not use heat shrink tubing over the wire ends at
the coil. This is not heat shrink tubing and you may have issues trying to use
heat shrink. This other tubing is thicker and setup to handle the electrical
discharge leaks from the coils. As Dick mentioned the plug caps if needed can
be found els where other than Rotax.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=448712#448712
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | ROTAX 914 engine oil |
I have recently begun to prepare to run the title engine for the
first time.
I turned to the engine oil specs to find that the one
recommended is AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 - not available in Canada.
I have therefore sent the following to Austria: =9CWould
you be kind enough to send me a case of AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 engine
oil so that, placed in my oil reservoir, I can fly to U.S.A. to buy a
case of AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 oil?
Fergus Kyle
Europa C-FFGG"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 914 engine oil |
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
I go with the Honda HP4 10-40w. You might find that in Canada.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
Now a glider pilot, too.
On 11/4/2015 11:39 AM, Fergus Kyle wrote:
> I have recently begun to prepare to run the title engine for the first
> time.
> I turned to the engine oil specs to find that the one recommended is
> AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 - not available in Canada.
> I have therefore sent the following to Austria: Would you be kind
> enough to send me a case of AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 engine oil so that,
> placed in my oil reservoir, I can fly to U.S.A. to buy a case of
> AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 oil?
> Fergus Kyle
> Europa C-FFGG"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dashwoodlock <dashwoodlock(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 914 engine oil |
aero shell sport plus 4 is available through arcraft spruce in brantford an
d rotec in britich columbia... i switch to amsole 5/ 40 or 10 /40 motercycl
e oil in the winter months...=C2-
From: Fergus Kyle <f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca>
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 4, 2015 2:39 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: ROTAX 914 engine oil
I have recently begun to prepare to run the title engine for the first tim
e. I turned to the engine oil specs to find that the one recommended is Aer
oSHELL Sport plus 4 - not available in Canada. I=C2-have=C2-therefore s
ent the following to Austria: =C2-=9CWould you be kind enough to se
nd me a=C2-case of AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 engine oil so that, placed in m
y oil reservoir, I can fly to U.S.A. to buy a case of AeroSHELL Sport plus
4 oil?=C2-Fergus KyleEuropa C-FFGG"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | ROTAX 914 engine oil |
I've used Shell Rotella T-6 full synthetic, and sometimes make my own
semi-synthetic by mixing T-6 and Rotella dino oil 50/50, for the past
several thousand hours. Never had a problem with it. Seems to suspend
lead as well as the full dino recommended by Rotax. Wal-Mart sells for
less than 20.00 a gal.
Don't want to shock the Rotax purist, but I have also used Fram filters
since my first 912 back in 1993, plus another two 912ULS engines since
then. My filter of choice is the Fram TG 3614 (that's the Tough Guard
filter). Only time I have flown with Rotax oil filters was the one that
came with each new engine.
Same for spark plug connectors. Last time I found some on line they
were about 4 or 5 dollars each. Searched the part number on the
connector.
john h
Kolb MKIII
hauck's holler, Alabama
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dashwoodlock
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2015 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ROTAX 914 engine oil
aero shell sport plus 4 is available through arcraft spruce in brantford
and rotec in britich columbia... i switch to amsole 5/ 40 or 10 /40
motercycle oil in the winter months...
_____
From: Fergus Kyle <f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, November 4, 2015 2:39 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: ROTAX 914 engine oil
I have recently begun to prepare to run the title engine for
the first time.
I turned to the engine oil specs to find that the one
recommended is AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 - not available in Canada.
I have therefore sent the following to Austria:
=9CWould you be kind enough to send me a case of AeroSHELL Sport
plus 4 engine oil so that, placed in my oil reservoir, I can fly to
U.S.A. to buy a case of AeroSHELL Sport plus 4 oil?
Fergus Kyle
Europa C-FFGG"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make |
A Contribution Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94551-0347
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through
the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added
to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund
Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined
with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site
up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics
Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are
so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have
it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published |
in December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists
are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely
through your Contributions during this time of the year.
*Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another
great year!
Use a credit card or your PayPal account here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by sending a personal check to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Contribution - Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides
for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List.
It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine,
List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line
archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets
the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses.
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List
services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of
the best investments you can make in your Sport!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make |
A Contribution Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Behind By 22% - Please Contribute Today! |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year
is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 22%. Please take this
opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums!
Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members
don't want to support the Lists directly, then I might have to add advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I don't want to have to do
that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot
of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Are You Thankful For...? |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for the many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists.
Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming |
Soon!
Dear Listers,
There's just three more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser - Just Two Days Left! - Still Well Behind... |
Dear Listers,
There are just two more full days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. Over the
last couple of weeks I have received some really nice comments from members
on what the Lists have meant to them and I really appreciate the feedback!
At this point, unfortunately, we are still well behind last year in total Contributions
to support the continued operation of these services. I really want
to keep providing these Lists and Forums to the home built community, but it takes
resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the
operation a float, it's *solely your generosity* during the yearly Fund Raiser
that keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today so that I can keep
the bills paid and the services and systems turned on. If you've been putting
off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time to do it!
To make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution
web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a check in the mail:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your support! It is very much appreciated...
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again
- 52, so don't remind me! :-) But it also means that it's that last official
day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about
picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on
it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever
forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/29/15 |
| From: | ronperr <ronperr(at)telusplanet.net> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Nielsen <genie(at)swissmail.org> |
| Subject: | Looking for Rotax 912 80 HP |
Does anyone of you have a Rotax 912 for sale, or do you know anyone who
does? If so please let me know. I am looking primarily for an engine in
Europe. Thank you.
Best regards,
George Nielsen
The Hague, the Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Auction For P113 eMag To Support Matronics List Fund |
Raiser
Dear Listers,
Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric fame has generously put a new eMag P113 electronic
4-cylinder mag up for sale on EBay. Bob has pledged to donate all of the
proceeds from this auction in support of this year's Matronics Fund Raiser.
If you are in the market for one of these great electronic ignitions (I have two
eMags on my RV-8 and love them), please bid on this one!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151920582478
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2015 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2015 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors.
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection
up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I also want to thank Andy, Bob, and George for their generous support through the
supply of many great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent products
and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com
George Race - Race Consulting - http://www.mrrace.com
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2015 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2015.html
Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted - RING MOUNT for 912ULS, also OIL TANK for same |
| From: | "G-ODTW" <dave(at)robotas.co.uk> |
Wanted - RING MOUNT for 912ULS, also OIL TANK for same
--------
David Walters
01474 816817
dave(at)robotas.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452171#452171
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bart Rond <bartrond(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello listers,
I was victim of online purchase fraud and I send out a warning to you all!
It concerns the purchase of a Rotax engine that was offered on craigslist.
All personal data and bankaccount seemed legitable, but my money is gone and no
engine!!
Be carefull!
Bart Rond
Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
Sorry to hear about that. Details would be very useful, including names
if you feel legally confident in revealing them.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
Now a glider pilot, too.
On 2/2/2016 4:02 AM, Bart Rond wrote:
>
> Hello listers,
>
> I was victim of online purchase fraud and I send out a warning to you all!
> It concerns the purchase of a Rotax engine that was offered on craigslist.
> All personal data and bankaccount seemed legitable, but my money is gone and
no engine!!
> Be carefull!
>
> Bart Rond
>
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bro Sister <purple_hemi_426(at)hotmail.com> |
Wow!!
Thanking you for Info.
BEWARE!!!
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: SCAM!!
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> From: gebuchanan(at)cox.net
> Date: Tue=2C 2 Feb 2016 09:16:06 -0800
>
>
>
> Sorry to hear about that. Details would be very useful=2C including names
> if you feel legally confident in revealing them.
>
> Guy Buchanan
> Ramona=2C CA
> Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
> Now a glider pilot=2C too.
>
>
>
> On 2/2/2016 4:02 AM=2C Bart Rond wrote:
m>
> >
> > Hello listers=2C
> >
> > I was victim of online purchase fraud and I send out a warning to you a
ll!
> > It concerns the purchase of a Rotax engine that was offered on craigsli
st.
> > All personal data and bankaccount seemed legitable=2C but my money is g
one and no engine!!
> > Be carefull!
> >
> > Bart Rond
> >
> > Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Michals <kitfoxsport(at)verizon.net> |
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 2, 2016, at 11:15 AM, bro Sister wrot
e:
>
> Wow!!
>
> Thanking you for Info.
>
> BEWARE!!!
>
> > Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: SCAM!!
> > To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> > From: gebuchanan(at)cox.net
> > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2016 09:16:06 -0800
> >
t>
> >
> > Sorry to hear about that. Details would be very useful, including names
> > if you feel legally confident in revealing them.
> >
> > Guy Buchanan
> > Ramona, CA
> > Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. flying again.
> > Now a glider pilot, too.
> >
> >
> >
> > On 2/2/2016 4:02 AM, Bart Rond wrote:
om>
> > >
> > > Hello listers,
> > >
> > > I was victim of online purchase fraud and I send out a warning to you a
ll!
> > > It concerns the purchase of a Rotax engine that was offered on craigsl
ist.
> > > All personal data and bankaccount seemed legitable, but my money is go
ne and no engine!!
> > > Be carefull!
> > >
> > > Bart Rond
> > >
> > > Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
> > >
> > =============
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michaega" <Michaega(at)verizon.net> |
I'll assume you went thru PayPal. 1. Never fill out the papal purchase or seller
sale agreement. That gives out way to much info to be used against you.
2. PayPal doesn't send you a email that details the transaction and tells you
to send money. The scammer sent that to you.
Now if you didn't deal with PayPal which holds the money until you become a
happy camper with the deal.
Just remember 1&2.
If your selling the 1&2 still applies and 3. If PayPal shows some one put money
In your account that shows on bottom but at top of that page shows no
money, the transaction has not been funded. Go into your account that shows all
your transaction it most likely won't show a completed transaction. [Embarassed]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452546#452546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com> |
Hi all. Looking for a rotax oil tank for my 914. Would like one as new and unused
as possible. Please pm or email me.
Many thanks Frank Xuereb kit#165
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453567#453567
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax oil tank |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Call Leading Edge because they do have used parts many times, but not always.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453589#453589
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax oil tank |
| From: | "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com> |
Hello Rodger, thanks very much for the lead. Forgot to say that I am in the UK
and looking for a source on here if possible.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453593#453593
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <kitfox555(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | 582 volts to high |
I have a 582 grey head model 90 My volt meter at 3000 rpm reads 14.25 and 5500
is 15.50 I replaced it with one from CPS # 866-080 the same one that ran for 125
hr and it reads the same could it be bad or is there something else to look
for I put new battery in checked wire connection and grounds . Thinking of going
to the 3phase one from Cps any info would help thanks. Jerry. Kitfox 2
Magalia cal 530-228-5185
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 volts to high |
That sounds like a normal no-load output
Dave Alberti
414-699-9312
> On Apr 2, 2016, at 9:13 AM, Jerry wrote:
>
>
> I have a 582 grey head model 90 My volt meter at 3000 rpm reads 14.25 and 5500
is 15.50 I replaced it with one from CPS # 866-080 the same one that ran for
125 hr and it reads the same could it be bad or is there something else to look
for I put new battery in checked wire connection and grounds . Thinking of
going to the 3phase one from Cps any info would help thanks. Jerry. Kitfox
2
> Magalia cal 530-228-5185
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 volts to high |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Jerry:
Normal charge is 13.8 VDC to 14.2 VDC. As you know 15.5 VDC is too high
and can overcharge the battery. SO, the simple cure is to Turn Something
On! And then read the voltage. OR! If you are the Electrical Type, just
install a Zenor Diode with a value between 13.8 to 14.2 VDC and a resistor
to handle the over voltage. 15.5 - 14.2 = 1.4 VDC ... 1.4 VDC @ say 3
Amps = 4.2 Watts // 1.4 VDC / 3 Amps = 0.43 Ohms... Easy enough to get a
0.5 Ohm resistor at 5 Watts.
This will limit your voltage to 14.2 VDC for charging. Less expensive than
buying a ...
Barry
On Sat, Apr 2, 2016 at 10:13 AM, Jerry wrote:
>
> I have a 582 grey head model 90 My volt meter at 3000 rpm reads 14.25 and
> 5500 is 15.50 I replaced it with one from CPS # 866-080 the same one that
> ran for 125 hr and it reads the same could it be bad or is there something
> else to look for I put new battery in checked wire connection and grounds
> . Thinking of going to the 3phase one from Cps any info would help thanks.
> Jerry. Kitfox 2
> Magalia cal 530-228-5185
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Back Online |
Dear Listers,
The Matronics Web server lost a critical system hard drive yesterday 4/18/2016.
I have been working feverishly for the last 24 hours to repair the system and
get the Matronics Forums and other web-based resources back online.
Email services were not impacted in anyway.
back online and all resources were successfully restored from a backup.
My apologies for the down time.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Admin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/25/16 |
| From: | Paul <paul(at)sigsolns.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mansfield <europaul383(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/25/16 |
You have to remove yourself I=99m afraid Paul =93
instructions here: http://www.matronics.com/subscription/
HTH
Paul M
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: 26 April 2016 10:16
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: RE: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs -
04/25/16
Please remove me from the list. Thanks, Paul
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S=C2=AE 6, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: RotaxEngines-List Digest Server <rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>
Date: 04/26/2016 2:02 AM (GMT-06:00)
>
Subject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/25/16
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html
&Chapter 16-04-25&Archive=RotaxEngines>
&View=html&Chapter 16-04-25&Archive=RotaxEngines
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&
Chapter 16-04-25&Archive=RotaxEngines>
&View=txt&Chapter 16-04-25&Archive=RotaxEngines
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 04/25/16: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Richards <stephencliverichards(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/25/16 |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High oil temp on 912UL |
| From: | "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com> |
Aircraft: Europa Classic Tri Gear
Engine : Rotax 912 UL (80HP) TT 440 hours
Propeller: Airmaster
I am having a major problem with excessive oil temperature. The Europa Classic
is not brilliant when it comes to cooling due to the design feature of having
the oil cooler mounted behind the left hand coolant radiator and I have carried
out all the recommended mods suggested by other Europa owners to improve cooling.
These have helped and but now the weather is getting warmer (21 degrees!)
I have discovered things have taken a turn for the worse.
My last three flights have been a nightmare due to soaring oil temperature. For
example, yesterday I started my take off roll with an oil temp of 80C and had
to reduce power and level off after less than two minutes (1300 ft) with the
oil temp approaching 130C and CHT of 120C. Cruising at that level quickly drops
the CHT to 110C but the oil takes an age to fall below 120C. If I can get the
aircraft into the cruise above 2500ft the temps stabilise at just below 110C
Oil and 100C CHT, the problem is I just cant get that high at the moment.
I have not changed anything on the aircraft so I am assuming it must be an engine
problem. The oil level is always correct and I use Aeroshell Sport Plus 4
and Rotax filters. The oil has done less than 20 hours and I use MOGAS with no
ethanol. Oil pressure is OK and is about 2.8 3 Bar at a normal cruise.
Does anyone have any ideas what could possibly be causing this problem? I really
hope so as I am not going anywhere as things stand!
Gordon Grant
Europa Classic G-BWFH
--------
Gordon Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456185#456185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Roberts" <jnjrob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp on 912UL |
http://www.batinc.net/laminova.htm These work on the short tail Rans S7.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: GBWFH2010
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 9:39 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: High oil temp on 912UL
Aircraft: Europa Classic Tri Gear
Engine : Rotax 912 UL (80HP) TT 440 hours
Propeller: Airmaster
I am having a major problem with excessive oil temperature. The Europa
Classic is not brilliant when it comes to cooling due to the design
feature of having the oil cooler mounted behind the left hand coolant
radiator and I have carried out all the recommended mods suggested by
other Europa owners to improve cooling. These have helped and but now the
weather is getting warmer (21 degrees!) I have discovered things have taken
a turn for the worse.
My last three flights have been a nightmare due to soaring oil temperature.
For example, yesterday I started my take off roll with an oil temp of 80C
and had to reduce power and level off after less than two minutes (1300 ft)
with the oil temp approaching 130C and CHT of 120C. Cruising at that level
quickly drops the CHT to 110C but the oil takes an age to fall below 120C.
If I can get the aircraft into the cruise above 2500ft the temps stabilise
at just below 110C Oil and 100C CHT, the problem is I just cant get that
high at the moment.
I have not changed anything on the aircraft so I am assuming it must be an
engine problem. The oil level is always correct and I use Aeroshell Sport
Plus 4 and Rotax filters. The oil has done less than 20 hours and I use
MOGAS with no ethanol. Oil pressure is OK and is about 2.8 3 Bar at a
normal cruise.
Does anyone have any ideas what could possibly be causing this problem? I
really hope so as I am not going anywhere as things stand!
Gordon Grant
Europa Classic G-BWFH
--------
Gordon Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456185#456185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp on 912UL |
| From: | Peter Timm <cptimm29(at)gmail.com> |
Gordon, I bought a larger oil cooler from Rotax when I decided to go for the
912S, which runs much hotter than the 912. Then I modified the lower cowling with
the new location for the oil cooler under the propellor. It slides in from
the inside when the cowling is attached and is thus isolated from engine vibration.
This was all done during the build and we don't have the the problems
with certification.
Peter Timm
British Columbia, Canada
On 2016-05-13, at 8:32 AM, Jim Roberts wrote:
>
> http://www.batinc.net/laminova.htm These work on the short tail Rans S7.
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message----- From: GBWFH2010
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 9:39 AM
> To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: High oil temp on 912UL
>
>
> Aircraft: Europa Classic Tri Gear
> Engine : Rotax 912 UL (80HP) TT 440 hours
> Propeller: Airmaster
>
> I am having a major problem with excessive oil temperature. The Europa Classic
is not brilliant when it comes to cooling due to the design feature of having
the oil cooler mounted behind the left hand coolant radiator and I have carried
out all the recommended mods suggested by other Europa owners to improve cooling.
These have helped and but now the weather is getting warmer (21 degrees!)
I have discovered things have taken a turn for the worse.
>
> My last three flights have been a nightmare due to soaring oil temperature. For
example, yesterday I started my take off roll with an oil temp of 80C and had
to reduce power and level off after less than two minutes (1300 ft) with the
oil temp approaching 130C and CHT of 120C. Cruising at that level quickly drops
the CHT to 110C but the oil takes an age to fall below 120C. If I can get
the aircraft into the cruise above 2500ft the temps stabilise at just below 110C
Oil and 100C CHT, the problem is I just cant get that high at the moment.
>
> I have not changed anything on the aircraft so I am assuming it must be an engine
problem. The oil level is always correct and I use Aeroshell Sport Plus
4 and Rotax filters. The oil has done less than 20 hours and I use MOGAS with
no ethanol. Oil pressure is OK and is about 2.8 3 Bar at a normal cruise.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas what could possibly be causing this problem? I really
hope so as I am not going anywhere as things stand!
>
> Gordon Grant
> Europa Classic G-BWFH
>
> --------
> Gordon Grant
>
> G-BWFH
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456185#456185
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp on 912UL |
Gordon
I have a Kitfox and my problem is that the oil temp is too cool. When I
first bought the aircraft the prior owner had a large soft aluminum sheet
with fins (about 3/8 inch fins) wrapped around the oil tank acting as a heat
sink. It was attached by two large hose clamps. I removed it as it was
drawing too much heat out of the oil. I have seen these things used around oil
filters in cars to cool the oil. I don't have a clue is to what they are
called or where to get them but it might be worth a shot to try it. It looks
to be rather inexpensive and was pretty effective on my airplane. In my
case the large oil cooler is more than enough
You might try a goggle search and see what you come up with or maybe
another member would know what they are called. Might be a cheap fix to reduce
some heat.
Good luck,
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp on 912UL |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
HI Gordon,
What coolant are you running? If it's Evans get rid of it and use 50/50. Evans
carries a 20F-30F heat penalty do to poor heat absorption and dissipation.
Next check the oil hoses when hot to make sure none have a narrowed radius in them.
Some people have too tight a bend and that narrows the hose I.D and slows
the oil flow. You should have a 13mm opening all the way through the oil hose
lines.
Heat exchangers usually don't work here unless they are open air engines. Tight
cowled engines don't fair well.
Depending on the number of hours on the engine you may need the oil cooler flushed
from accumulated debris.
If the oil temp wasn't an issue before then something is now restricting its flow.
Usually these problems are not an exotic fix. They are something simple that
most people overlook.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456256#456256
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High oil temp on 912UL |
| From: | "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com> |
Roger,
Thank you for the advice and I will check all these out.
Regards
Gordon
--------
Gordon Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456260#456260
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question on 912 O-rings |
| From: | D L Josephson <dlj04(at)josephson.com> |
There seem to be differing reports on whether you need the
cylinder-to-case o-ring on standard 912UL and ULS. Comments? Are there
recommended alternate sources? Confirmation that they are ordinary
buna-n or Viton? Thanks!
David Josephson
Santa Cruz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question on 912 O-rings |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
There is an "O" ring at the base of the cylinders. See Parts manual section
72-20-00 pg. 16. Item #14 and part #250510. It is a Viton 87mmx2mm "O" ring. I
buy my "O" rings from Maryland Metrics
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456278#456278
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question on 912 O-rings |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Get the size from the IPC then look for it at McMaster Carr. They have an
extensive supply of differing materials and a good chart to help make a
selection.
Rick Girard
On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 2:37 AM, D L Josephson wrote:
> dlj04(at)josephson.com>
>
> There seem to be differing reports on whether you need the
> cylinder-to-case o-ring on standard 912UL and ULS. Comments? Are there
> recommended alternate sources? Confirmation that they are ordinary buna-n
> or Viton? Thanks!
>
> David Josephson
> Santa Cruz
>
>
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>
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--
=9CBlessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.=9D
Groucho Marx
<http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/43244.Groucho_Marx>
December 07, 2014 - May 17, 2016
RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-bh