Stratus-Archive.digest.vol-ac
October 05, 2004 - July 31, 2005
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
Frank,
no embarrassment, I did plumb as you described - but that was also
how the factory told me to do it.
The first question I asked them when they described how to put the
pumps was "won't that pump sucking the fuel cause vapour-lock if the
wing pump fails?". They said it wouldn't and if I remember correctly
he said they had theirs plumbed that way at the time.
This didn't necessarily convince me but with the wing tank pump
pushing I didn't worry too much.
For me to have fuel starvation the following needs to happen :
1. One wing tank pump fails
=09- switch tanks and pumps
2. Other wing tank pump fails
- allow firewall pump to continue pumping
3. Firewall pump either fails or vapour-locks within minutes of 2
since flight will be terminated after 1 or 2.
4. I allow the flight to continue long enough for this to all
transpire.
I tend to doubt that a two pumps will fail within a few minutes and
the third will immediately cause vapour-lock before I could get down.
If I am being naive feel free to say so, rather have my feelings hurt
than kill myself.Feel free to let me know your thoughts and
recommendations, again, free exchange of ideas and knowledge is a
good thing and I won't be upset if you say I'm being a moron - just
do it nicely ;)
Thanks!
Andy
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>Andy,
>
>If you have don what I think you have, then I do not like your fuel
>system design.
>
>This is what I THINK you did...
>
>You put a single pump that draws from both tanks using a selector
>valve
>perhaps? You have a second pump on the firewall that is plumbed in
>series with the wing tanks.
>
>I say I think you did this because series plumbing of two pumps is
>the
>only way your pressure will double like that.
>
>Is this the case?...If so I think you should replumb your system as
>you
>are asking for vapour lock....with deadly consequences...Admittedly
>the
>the wing tank pump will have to fail for this to happen but its not
>ideal by any stretch.
>
>Let me know what you did and we can talk some more.
>
>I will post this to the group, not to embarrass you, just simply to
>get
>the word out.
>
>Frank
>
>
Frank,
no embarrassment, I did plumb as you described - but that was also how the factory
told me to do it.
The first question I asked them when they described how to put the pumps was won't
that pump sucking the fuel cause vapour-lock if the wing pump fails?. They
said it wouldn't and if I remember correctly he said they had theirs plumbed
that way at the time.
This didn't necessarily convince me but with the wing tank pump pushing I didn't
worry too much.
For me to have fuel starvation the following needs to happen :
1. One wing tank pump fails
- switch tanks and pumps
2. Other wing tank pump fails
- allow firewall pump to continue pumping
3. Firewall pump either fails or vapour-locks within minutes of 2 since flight
will be terminated after 1 or 2.
4. I allow the flight to continue long enough for this to all transpire.
I tend to doubt that a two pumps will fail within a few minutes and the third
will immediately cause vapour-lock before I could get down.
If I am being naive feel free to say so, rather have my feelings hurt than kill
myself.Feel free to let me know your thoughts and recommendations, again, free
exchange of ideas and knowledge is a good thing and I won't be upset if you
say I'm being a moron - just do it nicely ;)
Thanks!
Andy
--=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
Andy,
If you have don what I think you have, then I do not like your fuel
system design.
This is what I THINK you did...
You put a single pump that draws from both tanks using a selector
valve
perhaps? You have a second pump on the firewall that is plumbed in
series with the wing tanks.
I say I think you did this because series plumbing of two pumps is
the
only way your pressure will double like that.
Is this the case?...If so I think you should replumb your system as
you
are asking for vapour lock....with deadly consequences...Admittedly
the
the wing tank pump will have to fail for this to happen but its not
ideal by any stretch.
Let me know what you did and we can talk some more.
I will post this to the group, not to embarrass you, just simply to
get
the word out.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing tanks...probably
been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I complety
forgot about the header tank.
Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
positive head over the firewall pump.
If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on the
firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except that
the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to this
level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two or
three pumps are run.
Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
header.
The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a redundant
pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the outlet of
each tank is fine.
Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump fed
from each battery)
Hope that helps
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
SanClemente
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Cooling
-->
Frank,
no embarrassment, I did plumb as you described - but that was also
how the factory told me to do it.
The first question I asked them when they described how to put the
pumps was "won't that pump sucking the fuel cause vapour-lock if the
wing pump fails?". They said it wouldn't and if I remember correctly
he said they had theirs plumbed that way at the time.
This didn't necessarily convince me but with the wing tank pump
pushing I didn't worry too much.
For me to have fuel starvation the following needs to happen : 1. One
wing tank pump fails
=09- switch tanks and pumps
2. Other wing tank pump fails
- allow firewall pump to continue pumping
3. Firewall pump either fails or vapour-locks within minutes of 2
since flight will be terminated after 1 or 2.
4. I allow the flight to continue long enough for this to all
transpire.
I tend to doubt that a two pumps will fail within a few minutes and
the third will immediately cause vapour-lock before I could get down. If
I am being naive feel free to say so, rather have my feelings hurt
than kill myself.Feel free to let me know your thoughts and
recommendations, again, free exchange of ideas and knowledge is a
good thing and I won't be upset if you say I'm being a moron - just
do it nicely ;)
Thanks!
Andy
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>Andy,
>
>If you have don what I think you have, then I do not like your fuel
>system design.
>
>This is what I THINK you did...
>
>You put a single pump that draws from both tanks using a selector valve
>perhaps? You have a second pump on the firewall that is plumbed in
>series with the wing tanks.
>
>I say I think you did this because series plumbing of two pumps is the
>only way your pressure will double like that.
>
>Is this the case?...If so I think you should replumb your system as you
>are asking for vapour lock....with deadly consequences...Admittedly
>the
>the wing tank pump will have to fail for this to happen but its not
>ideal by any stretch.
>
>Let me know what you did and we can talk some more.
>
>I will post this to the group, not to embarrass you, just simply to get
>the word out.
>
>Frank
>
>
Frank,
no embarrassment, I did plumb as you described - but that was also
how the factory told me to do it.
The first question I asked them when they described how to put the
pumps was won't that pump sucking the fuel cause vapour-lock if the wing
pump fails?. They said it wouldn't and if I remember correctly he said
they had theirs plumbed that way at the time.
This didn't necessarily convince me but with the wing tank pump pushing
I didn't worry too much.
For me to have fuel starvation the following needs to happen : 1. One
wing tank pump fails
- switch tanks and pumps
2. Other wing tank pump fails
- allow firewall pump to continue pumping
3. Firewall pump either fails or vapour-locks within minutes of 2 since
flight will be terminated after 1 or 2. 4. I allow the flight to
continue long enough for this to all transpire. I tend to doubt that a
two pumps will fail within a few minutes and the third will immediately
cause vapour-lock before I could get down. If I am being naive feel
free to say so, rather have my feelings hurt than kill myself.Feel free
to let me know your thoughts and recommendations, again, free exchange
of ideas and knowledge is a good thing and I won't be upset if you say
I'm being a moron - just do it nicely ;)
Thanks!
Andy
wrote: --=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
Andy,
If you have don what I think you have, then I do not like your fuel
system design.
This is what I THINK you did...
You put a single pump that draws from both tanks using a selector
valve perhaps? You have a second pump on the firewall that is plumbed
in series with the wing tanks.
I say I think you did this because series plumbing of two pumps is the
only way your pressure will double like that.
Is this the case?...If so I think you should replumb your system as
you are asking for vapour lock....with deadly consequences...Admittedly
the the wing tank pump will have to fail for this to happen but its not
ideal by any stretch.
Let me know what you did and we can talk some more.
I will post this to the group, not to embarrass you, just simply to
get the word out.
Frank
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
Frank,
I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is
a pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the
firewall (Boost Pump).
Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is
a separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost
pump.
Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
Should I run the "boost" (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
end of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when
the fuel pressure is too high at the carbs?
Thanks for the information and feedback!
-Andy
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing
tanks...probably
>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
complety
>forgot about the header tank.
>
>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>
>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>positive head over the firewall pump.
>
>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on
>the
>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
that
>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
>this
>level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two
or
>three pumps are run.
>
>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>header.
>
>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>redundant
>pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the outlet
>of
>each tank is fine.
>
>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump
>fed
>from each battery)
>
>Hope that helps
>
>Frank
>
Frank,
I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is a pump at
each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the firewall (Boost Pump).
Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is a separate
pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost pump.
Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness inspection
is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be re-plumbing my entire
fuel system!
Should I run the boost (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is just the
one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom end of the allowable
fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when the fuel pressure is too high
at the carbs?
Thanks for the information and feedback!
-Andy
--=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing tanks...probably
been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I complety
forgot about the header tank.
Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
positive head over the firewall pump.
If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on
the
firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except that
the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
this
level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two or
three pumps are run.
Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
header.
The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
redundant
pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the outlet
of
each tank is fine.
Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump
fed
from each battery)
Hope that helps
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
If you use the 106 pump (not the 105) it will give you about 3.5psi at
full power which is just fine. The boost pump makes way too much
pressure and does nothing to avoid vapour lock.
The Andair selector is redundant and unnecessary...just switch pumps to
switch tanks...sooner of later you will get confused which pump goes
with which valve position.
I just have an on/off valve (for impending crashes) and non return
valves on the discharge of the pumps (I also have a filter for each pump
here) so the contents of one tank don't end up in the other.
Run both wing tank pumps on take off. Because the pumps are in parallel
they will not double the pressure like what is happening now.
Too much pressure means eventually you will flood the carbs because the
fuel pressure will overcome the float valve...Maybe not now but in time
this could happen.
If you remove the boost pump you will also remove some pressure drop
which will bring your pressure up a bit at the carbs Run both on takeoff
and you will also get another 1 psi or so.
I never rely on just one pump on take off.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
SanClemente
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Cooling
-->
Frank,
I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is
a pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the
firewall (Boost Pump).
Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is
a separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost
pump.
Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
Should I run the "boost" (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
end of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when
the fuel pressure is too high at the carbs?
Thanks for the information and feedback!
-Andy
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing
tanks...probably
>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
complety
>forgot about the header tank.
>
>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>
>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>positive head over the firewall pump.
>
>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on the
>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
that
>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to this
>level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two
or
>three pumps are run.
>
>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>header.
>
>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the
>outlet of
>each tank is fine.
>
>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump fed
>from each battery)
>
>Hope that helps
>
>Frank
>
Frank,
I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is a
pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the firewall
(Boost Pump).
Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is a
separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost
pump.
Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
Should I run the boost (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom end
of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when the fuel
pressure is too high at the carbs?
Thanks for the information and feedback!
-Andy
wrote: --=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing tanks...probably
been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I complety
forgot about the header tank.
Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
positive head over the firewall pump.
If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on the
firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except that
the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to this
level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two or
three pumps are run.
Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
header.
The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the
outlet of each tank is fine.
Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump fed
from each battery)
Hope that helps
Frank
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
So now you tell me I could have saved all that time - money - and
aggravation on setting up the Andair selector!! I like your setup,
nice clean and simple.
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>If you use the 106 pump (not the 105) it will give you about 3.5psi
>at
>full power which is just fine. The boost pump makes way too much
>pressure and does nothing to avoid vapour lock.
>
>The Andair selector is redundant and unnecessary...just switch pumps
>to
>switch tanks...sooner of later you will get confused which pump goes
>with which valve position.
>
>I just have an on/off valve (for impending crashes) and non return
>valves on the discharge of the pumps (I also have a filter for each
>pump
>here) so the contents of one tank don't end up in the other.
>
>Run both wing tank pumps on take off. Because the pumps are in
>parallel
>they will not double the pressure like what is happening now.
>
>Too much pressure means eventually you will flood the carbs because
>the
>fuel pressure will overcome the float valve...Maybe not now but in
>time
>this could happen.
>
>If you remove the boost pump you will also remove some pressure drop
>which will bring your pressure up a bit at the carbs Run both on
>takeoff
>and you will also get another 1 psi or so.
>
>I never rely on just one pump on take off.
>
>Frank
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
>SanClemente
>To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Cooling
>
>
>-->
>
>Frank,
>I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is
>a pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the
>firewall (Boost Pump).
>Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is
>a separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the
>boost
>pump.
>Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
>inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
>re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
>
>Should I run the "boost" (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or
>is
>just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
>end of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when
>the fuel pressure is too high at the carbs?
>
>Thanks for the information and feedback!
>-Andy
>
>
>wrote:
>>(Corvallis)"
>>
>>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing
>tanks...probably
>>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
>complety
>>forgot about the header tank.
>>
>>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>>
>>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>>positive head over the firewall pump.
>>
>>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on
>>the
>>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
>that
>>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
>>this
>>level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two
>or
>>three pumps are run.
>>
>>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>>header.
>>
>>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>>redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at
>>the
>>outlet of
>>each tank is fine.
>>
>>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source
>>(I
>>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump
>>fed
>>from each battery)
>>
>>Hope that helps
>>
>>Frank
>>
>
>
>Frank,
>I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is
>a
>pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the
firewall
>(Boost Pump).
>Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is
>a
>separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost
>pump.
>Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
>inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
>re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
>
>Should I run the boost (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
>just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
>end
>of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when the
>fuel
>pressure is too high at the carbs?
>
>Thanks for the information and feedback!
>-Andy
>
>
>wrote: --=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
>(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
>
>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing
>tanks...probably
>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
>complety
>forgot about the header tank.
>
>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>
>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>positive head over the firewall pump.
>
>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on
>the
>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
>that
>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
>this
>level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two
>or
>three pumps are run.
>
>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>header.
>
>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at
>the
>outlet of each tank is fine.
>
>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump
>fed
>from each battery)
>
>Hope that helps
>
>Frank
>
>
>==
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>_-
>=====================================================================
>===
>_-
>=====================================================================
>===
>_-
>=====================================================================
>===
>_-
>=====================================================================
>===
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus EA-81 Cooling |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I have been banging on about this subject for years (they call me Mr
Vaopour lock...:).) it was all in the archives my friend.
Remember if you use my setup it would be very worthwhile to install a
non return valve at the discharge of each pump...The pumps are a little
leaky backwards, its not much but enough to confuse you which tank the
fuel is.
I'm thinking of setting up my new Lycomming project (run on auto fuel)
the same way.
Have a good one.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
SanClemente
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Cooling
-->
So now you tell me I could have saved all that time - money - and
aggravation on setting up the Andair selector!! I like your setup,
nice clean and simple.
wrote:
>(Corvallis)"
>
>If you use the 106 pump (not the 105) it will give you about 3.5psi at
>full power which is just fine. The boost pump makes way too much
>pressure and does nothing to avoid vapour lock.
>
>The Andair selector is redundant and unnecessary...just switch pumps to
>switch tanks...sooner of later you will get confused which pump goes
>with which valve position.
>
>I just have an on/off valve (for impending crashes) and non return
>valves on the discharge of the pumps (I also have a filter for each
>pump
>here) so the contents of one tank don't end up in the other.
>
>Run both wing tank pumps on take off. Because the pumps are in parallel
>they will not double the pressure like what is happening now.
>
>Too much pressure means eventually you will flood the carbs because the
>fuel pressure will overcome the float valve...Maybe not now but in
>time
>this could happen.
>
>If you remove the boost pump you will also remove some pressure drop
>which will bring your pressure up a bit at the carbs Run both on
>takeoff and you will also get another 1 psi or so.
>
>I never rely on just one pump on take off.
>
>Frank
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
>SanClemente
>To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Cooling
>
>
>-->
>
>Frank,
>I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is a
>pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the firewall
>(Boost Pump). Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector
>and there is a separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch
>for the boost
>pump.
>Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
>inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
>re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
>
>Should I run the "boost" (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
>just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
>end of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when
>the fuel pressure is too high at the carbs?
>
>Thanks for the information and feedback!
>-Andy
>
>
>wrote:
>>(Corvallis)"
>>
>>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing
>tanks...probably
>>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
>complety
>>forgot about the header tank.
>>
>>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>>
>>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>>positive head over the firewall pump.
>>
>>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on the
>>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
>that
>>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
>>this level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when
>>two
>or
>>three pumps are run.
>>
>>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>>header.
>>
>>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>>redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the
>>outlet of
>>each tank is fine.
>>
>>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
>>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump
>>fed
>>from each battery)
>>
>>Hope that helps
>>
>>Frank
>>
>
>
>Frank,
>I don't have a header, just the wing tanks. Currently the setup is a
>pump at each wing tank, and an additional inline pump on the
firewall
>(Boost Pump).
>Only one tank is active at a time via an Andor selector and there is a
>separate pump switch for each tank and a third switch for the boost
>pump.
>Im glad to hear its not completely messed up since my airworthiness
>inspection is most likely going to be next week and Id hate to be
>re-plumbing my entire fuel system!
>
>Should I run the boost (firewall) pump on takeoff and landing or is
>just the one wing tank pump sufficient even though its at the bottom
>end of the allowable fuel pressure range? What exactly happens when the
>fuel
>pressure is too high at the carbs?
>
>Thanks for the information and feedback!
>-Andy
>
>
>wrote: --=A0Stratus-List message posted by: Hinde, Frank George
>(Corvallis) frank.hinde(at)hp.com
>
>Actually for some reason I thought you only had wing tanks...probably
>been so long since I been flying with wing tanks only that I
>complety
>forgot about the header tank.
>
>Secondly I had assumed from your description that you only had two
>pumps...One on the firewall and one for both wing tanks.
>
>If you have a header the problem goes away because there is always
>positive head over the firewall pump.
>
>If you have THREE pumps (one at the outlet of each tank and one on the
>firewall) and no header tank the problem also goes away...Except
>that
>the firewall pump is a third level of protection (and designing to
>this
>level is overkill) and the fuel pressure will go too high when two
>or
>three pumps are run.
>
>Personally I would remove the firewall pump if you don't have the
>header.
>
>The important thing here is to NOT suck on the fuel and have a
>redundant pump that will also not suck on the fuel.....One pump at the
>outlet of each tank is fine.
>
>Also make sure each pump is fed from a separate electrical source (I
>have two electrically isolated batteries, one ignition and one pump fed
>from each battery)
>
>Hope that helps
>
>Frank
>
>
>==
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>_-
>=====================================================================
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>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | EGT and Timing Advance |
Hi Guys,
I've been reading and researching the imbalance of EGTs
right side to left on my Stratus. It's about a 60-degree F difference
and the highest runs to 1450 for a short time in takeoff at 5100 rpm.
I'm told the timing set by Stratus, set to 31-degrees can be adjusted
a little bit to perhaps lower the EGT temps, but there's risk of detonation
or on the opposite side, a loss of power.
Does anyone know what actual acceptable limits for timing adjustment for the
Stratus EA81 are, or have successful experience with adjusting timing for lower
temps?
Thanks for any experience or advice available on this one.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | CHT - Water Temps - Plug Colors |
Having gotten to about 5 hours on my engine I have some questions and
observations regarding a few things. My water temps are a consistent
165-170, never higher.
My CHT climbs rapidly to 210-250 depending upon if Im moving or not,
a fast taxi drops it down to 210-220.
I just sent for a new oil temp sender as the vdo that came with the
engine doesn't work for my gauge (mitchell).
Should the CHT climb that rapidly? Does that water temp sound correct
given the much higher CHT? I have seen in the archives where people
have stated the CHT is a useless gauge, Im interested in comments.
My water looks great but that CHT gauge has me nervous given its
proximity to that 260 overheat mark stated by stratus. Since I don't
have an oil temp yet I can't feed that data into this.
I pulled my plugs and found that each is burning different. 4 is very
sooty and black, 2 is a nice light to medium brown, 3 is black but
not as sooty as four, and 1 is a darker brown that 2 but not bad.
This seems strange to me as I would expect differences between carbs,
but between cylinders? Again comments welcome,
Thanks as usual
- Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Rotation Speeds - 601 HDS |
Sorry to ask this but I scoured the archives and couldn't find the
numbers Im looking for. Im sure others may find this useful down the
road as well.
In a 601 HDS (I have stratus) What are people using for :
- Rotation Speed on takeoff (and I noticed in the archives back
elevator is required or no liftoff regardless of speed)
- Downwind Leg
- Base Leg
- Final
- Touchdown
Please specify if your using MPH or KTS.
Im finalizing my flight test plan and want to have these numbers in
there.
Thanks!!!
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus primer and fuel hookup questions |
| From: | "Hansen, Ronald" <RH122050(at)ncr.com> |
I'm getting ready to install a Stratus EA81 on a Zenair 601HDS and
have run into a couple of things lately I'm not too sure about:
1) What are folks using as fuel line between an electric primer (ACS
type) and the carbs? The fitting on the bottom of the carbs is only
about half an inch long and less than 1/4 inch OD. I'm having trouble
finding a snug fit and you could barely get one hose clamp on there.
Any suggestions? Are people replacing the primer fitting? Are people
putting in a "T" on each carb to give access for carb sync tools?
2) What are you using for "T"s for the main fuel lines after the fuel
filter? Zenith uses a small brass "T" that would accommodate one hose
clamp per branch, but it seems a little "lawnmowerish" for an airplane.
Using three AN 1/4 inch hose fittings screwed into an all-male "T"
would work, but seems a bit ungainly. As much as I've read over the
years, I must be missing some nifty products or ideas.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Ron Hansen
Los Angeles
601HDS, day-nite VFR, scratch-built, Stratus, BRS
Airframe 90%
Plumbing 80%
Wiring 60%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus primer and fuel hookup questions |
Ron,
I used the original dual-choke cables to put in the "inrichment circuit"
(term used by Bing). Didn't like the short fitting either.
As for the T after the main fuel filter, I used a AN 824 T and aeroquip 491
hose fittings with a stainless sheathed hose to get from the pumps to the
filter
and then to the carbs. These are clamped at the Bings and are really
durable.
Carb sync is worth while only once or twice if you've managed to avoid the
dual
cables for throttle control. I purchased a device to check this, but will
not have
much use for it after verifying the carbs are in sync because I made a flex
connection
that ties the carb throttles together and they are operated by a single
solid sheathed .060 wire
that does push-pull on the right carb from the firewall center arm. Works
like a Cessna 150 or other
and hits the stops exactly every time. If you need better pictures, just
ask.
More details can be found on my site for Scratch Built 601s on the Subaru
engine page.
www.macsmachine.com
Congratulations on making it this far. The scratch built 601 is a great
work in progress.
Hope this helps.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS (scratch built) w/Stratus and Ram Heads, 42 hours.
Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus primer and fuel hookup questions
> I'm getting ready to install a Stratus EA81 on a Zenair 601HDS and
> have run into a couple of things lately I'm not too sure about:
>
> 1) What are folks using as fuel line between an electric primer (ACS
> type) and the carbs? >
> 2) What are you using for "T"s for the main fuel lines after the fuel
> filter? > Thanks in advance for the help,
>
> Ron Hansen
> Los Angeles
> 601HDS, day-nite VFR, scratch-built, Stratus, BRS
> Airframe 90%
> Plumbing 80%
> Wiring 60%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus primer and fuel hookup questions |
Ron,
I used blue Aeroquip rubber hose and aluminum barbed 1/8 NPT fittings into
a female 1/8NPT "T".
gary
> 1) What are folks using as fuel line between an electric primer (ACS
> type) and the carbs? The fitting on the bottom of the carbs is only
> about half an inch long and less than 1/4 inch OD. I'm having trouble
> finding a snug fit and you could barely get one hose clamp on there.
> Any suggestions? Are people replacing the primer fitting? Are people
> putting in a "T" on each carb to give access for carb sync tools?
>
> 2) What are you using for "T"s for the main fuel lines after the fuel
> filter? Zenith uses a small brass "T" that would accommodate one hose
> clamp per branch, but it seems a little "lawnmowerish" for an airplane.
> Using three AN 1/4 inch hose fittings screwed into an all-male "T"
> would work, but seems a bit ungainly. As much as I've read over the
> years, I must be missing some nifty products or ideas.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotation Speeds - 601 HDS |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Its flying at 60mph but I usually hold the nose down (in ground effect)
till 70mph which seems to be about Vy.
For really short fields I use about 65mph.
My landing approach I make at 75 to 80mph
Short fields about 70mph...Definate effort to hold the nose up on
landing
Frank
Stratus 601 HDS...Nose heavy.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
SanClemente
Subject: Stratus-List: Rotation Speeds - 601 HDS
-->
Sorry to ask this but I scoured the archives and couldn't find the
numbers Im looking for. Im sure others may find this useful down the
road as well.
In a 601 HDS (I have stratus) What are people using for :
- Rotation Speed on takeoff (and I noticed in the archives back
elevator is required or no liftoff regardless of speed)
- Downwind Leg
- Base Leg
- Final
- Touchdown
Please specify if your using MPH or KTS.
Im finalizing my flight test plan and want to have these numbers in
there.
Thanks!!!
Andy
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
I just ordered a new intake manifold from Ram that eliminates the
dual bing carbs (which I hate).
Ron has several new products including a fuel injection system witha
direct fire ignition that sounds very slick. That system would
require me to pull my heads and ship them back to have injectors put
in, replace all fuel lines with high pressure lines, and add return
lines to the tanks - way more work than I wanted to deal with.
I ended up ordering the new intake manifold with the AeroV throttle
body. It eliminates all that hose that snakes around the top of the
engine, eliminates the dual carb issue, and eliminates the uneven
mixtures from cylinder to cylinder caused by the current intakes and
carbs. For mixture adjustment, you use a knob like in every other
spam can, controllable from the cockpit.
It should arrive in about 3 weeks, Ill let you all know how it works
out.
-Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Cool,
Ron is a very talented and innovative individual and I wish we could get
the word out to push more work his way. On the stepped valve guide issue
he was the ONLY engine guy that could make a set of stepped valve guides
with no problem and understood how to heat freeze them into the heads
the way they should be.
Thanks to Ron I'm finally relaxed knowing my engine is not looking for a
place to kill me!
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
SanClemente
Subject: Stratus-List: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds
-->
I just ordered a new intake manifold from Ram that eliminates the
dual bing carbs (which I hate).
Ron has several new products including a fuel injection system witha
direct fire ignition that sounds very slick. That system would
require me to pull my heads and ship them back to have injectors put
in, replace all fuel lines with high pressure lines, and add return
lines to the tanks - way more work than I wanted to deal with.
I ended up ordering the new intake manifold with the AeroV throttle
body. It eliminates all that hose that snakes around the top of the
engine, eliminates the dual carb issue, and eliminates the uneven
mixtures from cylinder to cylinder caused by the current intakes and
carbs. For mixture adjustment, you use a knob like in every other
spam can, controllable from the cockpit.
It should arrive in about 3 weeks, Ill let you all know how it works
out.
-Andy
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
Gary,
If you're wanting 130-140 hp for a 601, I'd recommend you take a
pass on that one. The 601 is not a heavy plane, and the brackets
that connect the longerons to the firewall and engine mount are not
designed for anything of that potential weight and torque.
The Stratus is a practical limit for weight and the Jabaru is a practical
limit for HP. I'd be reluctant to combine a package that did both.
The consequences of that type of decision could be fatal weeks, months
or even years later.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
>
> Andy,
I'm still thinking of upgrading because I'd
> like 130-140HP, but I think I'd leave the Stratus as-is until I buy all
> new
> as another package. Better resale that way too.
> Anyone know anyone flying with a full-up RAM engine?
>
> Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
Larry,
I've got a Pelican. It flies great on 100 HP but if I can swap in more HP
at the same weight, that's a good trade for me. I'd like to put it on
amphibious floats someday too.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds
>
>
> Gary,
> If you're wanting 130-140 hp for a 601, I'd recommend you take a
> pass on that one. The 601 is not a heavy plane, and the brackets
> that connect the longerons to the firewall and engine mount are not
> designed for anything of that potential weight and torque.
> The Stratus is a practical limit for weight and the Jabaru is a practical
> limit for HP. I'd be reluctant to combine a package that did both.
> The consequences of that type of decision could be fatal weeks, months
> or even years later.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS
>
>>
>> Andy,
> I'm still thinking of upgrading because I'd
>> like 130-140HP, but I think I'd leave the Stratus as-is until I buy all
>> new
>> as another package. Better resale that way too.
>> Anyone know anyone flying with a full-up RAM engine?
>>
>> Gary
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
Gary,
the particular change Im making does not have high pressure lines,
it uses the same 4-5psi put out by a facet pump. Im getting a new
intake manifold that uses the throttle body and thats it. You can get
a different mod that is fuel injected with the direct fire ignition.
As far as the standard Stratus setup goes, before my engine had 1
hour on it I had to :
1. Have the heads and valves done (talk to Frank ;)
2. Replace the distributor
3. Replace the alternator
4. Replace the backup ignition module
5. Im going to be replacing the carbs, (throttle body) but the
throttle setup on my bing carbs is such that you end up "Pushing for
idle, pulling for power" - opposite of what it should be. This
happened due to some starters being longer (mine) and causing them to
put the throttles on in a manner that fits. The byproduct being a
reversed throttle setup - unsafe and a pain to fix.
The current design of the intake manifold + carbs means that you will
NEVER get all cylinders to have the same mixture. The best you can do
is get 2 out of 4 burning properly, the other 2 will be too rich.
Balancing two carbs is also more trouble than its worth in my
opinion, Ill take simplicity over complexity any day - one carb to
two. Having the ability to adjust the mixture from the cockpit like
most spam cans also is something I like.
Stratus is a good company and has been responsive to most of my
problems and questions so I have nothing personal against them. I
have just had too much trouble for what I paid.
My two cents, which is about what its worth ;)
- Andy
>
>Andy,
>I heard that the Aero V carb doesn't work well under pressure. It's
>made
>for gravity feed I think. I don't know what I'm talking about but
>you might
>want to look into that.
>Keep in mind that one of the best things about the Stratus is that
>it's a
>pretty well-proven package as-is. The more you change, the more
>risk you
>take (except for the valve guides - beat you to it Frank, and the
>upper
>right engine mount). Never heard of the dual carbs causing much of
>a
>problem, and there are lots of high-time Stratus's running with
>slightly
>unbalanced cylinders due to the intake. Not perfect, but pretty
>darn good,
>simple and cheap. Of course, I'm still thinking of upgrading
>because I'd
>like 130-140HP, but I think I'd leave the Stratus as-is until I buy
>all new
>as another package. Better resale that way too.
>Anyone know anyone flying with a full-up RAM engine?
>
>Gary
>===
>_-
>=====================================================================
>===
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
Does anyone have the model number/name of the Prop that came with the
Stratus Firewall Forward Package from Zenith?
Thanks
- Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive Prop |
Andy,
The Warp drive prop on my Stratus powered 601 is a Warp Drive
HP 3/8" Hub No D1, SAE I pattern, #70-R-3 bladed Composite Fiber,
w/tapered tips.
Not sure if ZAC provides something other than what this describes.
This is what I purchased from Warp Drive direct.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Subject: Stratus-List: Warp Drive Prop
>
>
> Does anyone have the model number/name of the Prop that came with the
> Stratus Firewall Forward Package from Zenith?
> Thanks
> - Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
I believe that RAM is producing an EA-81 with 130 to 140 hp with little if any
increase in weight. If you can get that much more horse power and the same weight,
it should not be a problem for a 601 and would make it significantly faster.
Would use a good deal more fuel though.
Just my opinion.
Regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
ZAC has said for years that the HD/HDS airfoil will not go significantly faster
than what we/they have been seeing. It's a high-lift (and high-drag) airfoil.
What you say, Bill, may be true for the XL with its thinner and lower-drag
airfoil. I don't know, but that makes sense. With the HD/HDS, more power will
get you a faster climb, but not enough more speed to justify the increase in
cost/weight/fuel burned. You are completely correct about fuel burn rates;
they're usually proportional to power generated.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
>
> If you can get that much more horse power and the same weight,
> it should not be a problem for a 601 and would make it significantly faster.
> Would use a good deal more fuel though.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew SanClemente <ansancle(at)townisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
Talk to Ron at Ram, he was telling me about one if his engines in a
Europa I believe where they had it down to burning 2.5 gallons per
hour at cruise - and I believe it was a 150 horse. He's doing some
pretty incredible stuff with these engines.
- A
>
>
>I believe that RAM is producing an EA-81 with 130 to 140 hp with
>little if any increase in weight. If you can get that much more
>horse power and the same weight, it should not be a problem for a
>601 and would make it significantly faster. Would use a good deal
>more fuel though.
>
>Just my opinion.
>
>Regards,
>Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Keep in mind that Chris Heinz rates the airframe up to 115 HP. At least
on the HD and HDS models (I believe the XL is the same). There have
already been some problems with cracked motor mounts.
Fly Safe,
Jim Weston
601HDS
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Morelli
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds
I believe that RAM is producing an EA-81 with 130 to 140 hp with little
if any increase in weight. If you can get that much more horse power and
the same weight, it should not be a problem for a 601 and would make it
significantly faster. Would use a good deal more fuel though.
Just my opinion.
Regards,
Bill
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
I'm sure you are correct that the HDS will not go faster than what ZAC has said
it will. Problem is, mine does about 115 mph cruise (on a god day) and ZAC had
always advertised I think in the 130 mph range. If I could get mine to go that
fast with a 130 or so hp engine, I think it may be worth it (especially if
the engine weight remained the same).
Regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ram Performance - new intake manifolds |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
True but the fuel burn will go WAY up....I think speed is proportional
to power cubed (or is the squared?) ...Anyway lets say you do 125mph
(WOT) on 8GPH right now...Well you 115mph is around 5 GPH correct?
Do you really want to almost double your fuel burn for another
10mph?...Not worth it. On cross X you will be landing much more often
that your door to dorr speed will be much higher by flying slower.
Where 130+hp will benefit is doing what the 601 does pretty darned well
already...i.e...CLIMB!
A much better benefit would be to look at closing down the cowl openings
(almost redundant in the Stratus intallation anyway) to reduce the
cooling drag...That way you get hopfully some more speed with no extra
fuel burn.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Morelli
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Ram Performance - new intake manifolds
I'm sure you are correct that the HDS will not go faster than what ZAC
has said it will. Problem is, mine does about 115 mph cruise (on a god
day) and ZAC had always advertised I think in the 130 mph range. If I
could get mine to go that fast with a 130 or so hp engine, I think it
may be worth it (especially if the engine weight remained the same).
Regards,
Bill
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Spark plugs and EGT |
Hi guys,
Is anyone using a spark plug other than the standard specified
NKG BP6ET for the Stratus EA-81 for the purpose of lowering
their EGT? A short piece on the internet suggests that various
plugs provide differing effects on exhaust gas temps. Not sure
how to read that either way, but if anyone has input
on plugs, I'd like to hear about it.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Dual Dizzy ignition |
Hi guys,
I finally got the spare distributor with the dual LX 600 pickups
and the TP45 ignition modules wired and it started. It seems the engine
needs both to start on and then either will run as needed. I used 30-degrees
BTDC @4000rpm for the Stratus and so far it sounds good. The external ignition
is still in place to be used as a double backup if needed.
Do appreciate the help I've recieved on this site and have mailed my donation to
Matt
Dralle for making it happen.
Thanks again,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus - Ram Heads - Dual Dizzy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Dual ignition decision |
Hi Guys,
After putting together the dual-ignition distributor and still having the flywheel
ignition on board, I pause to wonder. Is it safer to use the distributor
for both ignitions or is it better to use one pickup from the distributor and
the other from the external electronic flywheel ignition? Do failures occur at
the distributor cap or rotor that would push this decision this way or the other?
The only ignition failure I've had was the tach pickup on the external and that's
been no trouble since replacing it.
I'd be interested in opinions on the matter as it's a case for deciding which of
two sets of wires to use regularly.
Thanks,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus Subaru
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
Hi guys,
I've been chasing a pulse thinking the engine was missing
because it vibrates a bit when it's cold and the pulse is felt until things warm
up. After replacing the rotor, cap, plugs and checking coils and wires, it
runs well warm, but there is still a rumble, vibration band at 2500 to 2800 rpm
that seems a bit intense. Above and below that band everything sounds smooth.
Am I looking at the difference between the seasonal warm of recent and the cold
which is only 30-40 degrees cooler? It doesn't change when running off the A-distributor
ignition or B-flywheel ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture. Still
a 60-70 degree
difference in EGTs, right being higher. Belt is snug to spec and the prop is tracking
within 1/32" each blade, but there's still more vibration than I'd like to fly
with.
Any ideas on this? I feel like I've missed something here.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus at 45 hours and holding.
________________________________________________________________________________
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
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| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
Larry,
If, as you say, the vibration is only in a fairly narrow RPM band, and if
that band isn't at a normal operating speed (I doubt that you'd cruise the
Stratus for very long at 25-2800), then perhaps the solution is a yellow band
on the tachometer. I remember some others writing about a similar issue a year
or so ago. Did you check the archives? As I recall, the conclusion was that
the belt vibrated when run at certain speeds - not full speed or cruise
settings.
Doc, it hurts when I hit my head on the wall. -> So don't hit your head on
the wall.
My engine vibrates in a certain RPM range. -> So don't run it in that
range.
It sounds like an over-simplification, but that may be the best solution,
especially if it's smooth at all other speeds.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
Subject: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
>
> It doesn't change when running off the A-distributor ignition or B-flywheel
> ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture.
>
__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Belt rumble vibration |
still a rumble, vibration band at 2500 to 2800 rpm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Larry,
I get the same vib's but mine is about 3,300 RPM, so I also simply try to
avoid that setting if possible. As nothing I found makes it go away.
Kelly
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Belt rumble vibration |
you could run it without the prop to baseline the vibration level. if it's
rough, work on the engine, if it's smooth, work on the prop/spinner.
dynamic balance is well worth it and i found that getting every blade
exactly the same helps. takes a little longer to fiddle with prop when
adjusting pitch but i think it pays off. if you get a balance, make sure
you put spinner on.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
>
>
> Hi guys,
> I've been chasing a pulse thinking the engine was missing
> because it vibrates a bit when it's cold and the pulse is felt until
> things warm
> up. After replacing the rotor, cap, plugs and checking coils and wires,
> it
> runs well warm, but there is still a rumble, vibration band at 2500 to
> 2800 rpm
> that seems a bit intense. Above and below that band everything sounds
> smooth.
> Am I looking at the difference between the seasonal warm of recent and the
> cold
> which is only 30-40 degrees cooler? It doesn't change when running off
> the A-distributor
> ignition or B-flywheel ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture.
> Still a 60-70 degree
> difference in EGTs, right being higher. Belt is snug to spec and the prop
> is tracking
> within 1/32" each blade, but there's still more vibration than I'd like to
> fly with.
>
> Any ideas on this? I feel like I've missed something here.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus at 45 hours and holding.
>
>
> _-=====================================================================
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>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
This subject is interesting to me. I've had the same problem for about
5 years now. I've tried a lot of different things. The only thing that
seems to affect it is changing the belt tension. I remember that it
used to run very smooth when I first started using the engine after
receiving it from Stratus. I also remember that the belt was very tight
as compared to the way that I set it. I've never tried setting it very
tight again, since I'm concerned about damaging the bearings. I believe
that the secret is to run the belt tight enough, but I'm just not crazy
about tightening it any more, since it tightens more once the engine
heats up. I check the tension with the engine hot. By the way, my
vibration is also from 2500 to 2800, just where I'd like to run the rpm
on approach. I do the same and avoid this RPM band.
Jim Weston
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of The
Meiste's
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
still a rumble, vibration band at 2500 to 2800 rpm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Larry,
I get the same vib's but mine is about 3,300 RPM, so I also simply try
to avoid that setting if possible. As nothing I found makes it go away.
Kelly
_-=====================================================================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Check the carb balance....That helped a little bit.
After that and still having the rum-rum vibration I went and had the
prop dynamically balanced....Wow! What a difference.
Frank
Stratus with Ram heads 347 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
Hi guys,
I've been chasing a pulse thinking the engine was missing because it
vibrates a bit when it's cold and the pulse is felt until things warm
up. After replacing the rotor, cap, plugs and checking coils and wires,
it runs well warm, but there is still a rumble, vibration band at 2500
to 2800 rpm that seems a bit intense. Above and below that band
everything sounds smooth. Am I looking at the difference between the
seasonal warm of recent and the cold which is only 30-40 degrees cooler?
It doesn't change when running off the A-distributor ignition or
B-flywheel ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture. Still a
60-70 degree difference in EGTs, right being higher. Belt is snug to
spec and the prop is tracking within 1/32" each blade, but there's still
more vibration than I'd like to fly with.
Any ideas on this? I feel like I've missed something here.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus at 45 hours and holding.
_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
_-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
_-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
_-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
_-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
_-_-= List Contribution Web Site
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_-_-= Thank you for your generous support!
_-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_-_-=====================================================================
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_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of
List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Frank,
Thanks for the feedback on dynamic balance. I've been assuming that my
problem with the rumble at 2500 to 2800 was with belt tension. It used
to be very smooth, but has rumbled for some time now with nothing
helping. I wonder how I could have gotten out of balance when it used
to be so smooth.
Jim
Stratus with 226 hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
Check the carb balance....That helped a little bit.
After that and still having the rum-rum vibration I went and had the
prop dynamically balanced....Wow! What a difference.
Frank
Stratus with Ram heads 347 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
Hi guys,
I've been chasing a pulse thinking the engine was missing because it
vibrates a bit when it's cold and the pulse is felt until things warm
up. After replacing the rotor, cap, plugs and checking coils and wires,
it runs well warm, but there is still a rumble, vibration band at 2500
to 2800 rpm that seems a bit intense. Above and below that band
everything sounds smooth. Am I looking at the difference between the
seasonal warm of recent and the cold which is only 30-40 degrees cooler?
It doesn't change when running off the A-distributor ignition or
B-flywheel ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture. Still a
60-70 degree difference in EGTs, right being higher. Belt is snug to
spec and the prop is tracking within 1/32" each blade, but there's still
more vibration than I'd like to fly with.
Any ideas on this? I feel like I've missed something here.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus at 45 hours and holding.
_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
_-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
_-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
_-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
_-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
_-_-= List Contribution Web Site
_-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_-_-= Thank you for your generous support!
_-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_-_-====================================================================
=
_-= - The Stratus-List Email Forum -
_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of
List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
_-=====================================================================
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_-=====================================================================
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_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
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_-_-= Thank you for your generous support!
_-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_-_-=====================================================================
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_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of
List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
_-=====================================================================
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_-=====================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I never came up with an acceptable reason in my own mind either. Just
because, I changed the belt and replaced the prop bearings at 300 hours
as well (they are cheap enough and by the time you got the belt off its
only another 1.5 hours to have the bearings changed out)...Put it all
back together...Yup rum-rum was still there and it varied with belt
tension.
Like you I realised that 1/8th deflection at 20 lbs is VERY
tight...Didn't like it so I put up with the rum-rum.
Checked the blade angles...all good and went to the dynamic balancer.
The flight home was the smoothest ever (also got the Wife a test flight
in the RV 7A at Van's factory as it was on the way.. Yes she did
approve....:).
The vibration was not that bad, the trouble was I was still gun shy of
the motor dropping a valve guide even though I know in my head its been
fixed for good. So my head would play tricks...Oh no...its just got
worse...It always got worse over big towns,water or mountains....Hmmmm
No no more vibes (well very small) and I fly more at ease.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Weston,
Jim
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
Frank,
Thanks for the feedback on dynamic balance. I've been assuming that my
problem with the rumble at 2500 to 2800 was with belt tension. It used
to be very smooth, but has rumbled for some time now with nothing
helping. I wonder how I could have gotten out of balance when it used
to be so smooth.
Jim
Stratus with 226 hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
Check the carb balance....That helped a little bit.
After that and still having the rum-rum vibration I went and had the
prop dynamically balanced....Wow! What a difference.
Frank
Stratus with Ram heads 347 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
Hi guys,
I've been chasing a pulse thinking the engine was missing because it
vibrates a bit when it's cold and the pulse is felt until things warm
up. After replacing the rotor, cap, plugs and checking coils and wires,
it runs well warm, but there is still a rumble, vibration band at 2500
to 2800 rpm that seems a bit intense. Above and below that band
everything sounds smooth. Am I looking at the difference between the
seasonal warm of recent and the cold which is only 30-40 degrees cooler?
It doesn't change when running off the A-distributor ignition or
B-flywheel ignition, so perhaps it's the belt or my mixture. Still a
60-70 degree difference in EGTs, right being higher. Belt is snug to
spec and the prop is tracking within 1/32" each blade, but there's still
more vibration than I'd like to fly with.
Any ideas on this? I feel like I've missed something here.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus at 45 hours and holding.
_-=====================================================================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Belt rumble vibration |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Thanks Frank. I've had the same head problem (the one on my shoulders)
since having the valve guide problem. I've not had anymore problems,
since replacing the heads. But, psychologically it's still there,
particularly over water.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Belt rumble vibration
-->
I never came up with an acceptable reason in my own mind either. Just
because, I changed the belt and replaced the prop bearings at 300 hours
as well (they are cheap enough and by the time you got the belt off its
only another 1.5 hours to have the bearings changed out)...Put it all
back together...Yup rum-rum was still there and it varied with belt
tension.
Like you I realised that 1/8th deflection at 20 lbs is VERY
tight...Didn't like it so I put up with the rum-rum.
Checked the blade angles...all good and went to the dynamic balancer.
The flight home was the smoothest ever (also got the Wife a test flight
in the RV 7A at Van's factory as it was on the way.. Yes she did
approve....:).
The vibration was not that bad, the trouble was I was still gun shy of
the motor dropping a valve guide even though I know in my head its been
fixed for good. So my head would play tricks...Oh no...its just got
worse...It always got worse over big towns,water or mountains....Hmmmm
No no more vibes (well very small) and I fly more at ease.
Frank
_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
_-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
_-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
_-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
_-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
_-_-= List Contribution Web Site
_-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_-_-= Thank you for your generous support!
_-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_-_-=====================================================================
_-= - The Stratus-List Email Forum -
_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
_-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other
_-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
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| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Subaru ICM failure? and ignition performance |
Hello. I just joined this list after browsing the
very useful archives.
I noticed that several people had failures with the
Subaru Nippodenso ignition control module. Was the
module used with the Subaru Nippodenso K31 coil (the
stock coil)? Or with something else?
My aircraft flew about 80 hours this year and during
all that time, we were dissatisfied with engine
performance. I tried replacing cyl. heads, tuning
carb, reajusting lifters, tuning exhaust, I even
dismantled the engine and had it checked at the
machine shop.
Today, I decided to try the stock Subaru ignition
system in lieu of the ND pickup/TP45/IC107
combination. With the GM HEI system, I obtained 4300
rpm static on the ground (plane attached). Well,
with the Subaru ignition, I got 5050 rpm (you read
right 700+ additional static rpms)!!! This is not the
same engine at all!! I did not check timing or
temperatures or anything as I was too excited to
think. It just seems that my performance problem may
be a thing of the past.
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru ICM failure? and ignition performance |
> I noticed that several people had failures with the
> Subaru Nippodenso ignition control module. Was the
> module used with the Subaru Nippodenso K31 coil (the
> stock coil)? Or with something else?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Michel,
I fly the Stratus engine in my 601 and lost my ign in flight at 60 hours on
the Hobbs. My coil (IC107) failed causing my ICM inside the ND distributor
to fry it's self.
Kelly Meiste
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru ICM failure? and ignition performance |
> I noticed that several people had failures with the
> Subaru Nippodenso ignition control module. Was the
> module used with the Subaru Nippodenso K31 coil (the
> stock coil)? Or with something else?
Michel,
That's great that you're finally getting it running right. As far as the
coils, that's something i've been meaning to look into. Clare Snyder on the
airsood list says that the IC107 coil needs a ballast resistor. This may
explain why some of them burn up - too much current.
Also, both of the ignitions on the stock Stratus work about the same. I
can switch from the distributor with the stock ND, and the GM ignition with
the mag pickup on the flywheel and the engine runs about the same. Slight
difference in idle due to advance differences but there's nothing like 700
rpm change between the two.
good luck,
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their
Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send
another set in a couple of days.
Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few
days, the contributions have really started to come in and its looking like
support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few
days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time!
Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
----------------- More of What Listers Are Saying... --------------------
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http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
For the heck of it, after reading the posts on carb jets, I flew to experiment
with the enrichener. In the midrange, pulling the enrichener (choke) increased
the rpm by about 150. Then in the main jet range adding the enrichener made
no difference.
On a cooler day I did the same and found that the midrange increased even more
and the main jet range rpm increased by about 50 when enrichened. Is it likely
that lowering the needle in the midrange will affect them both. Should I increase
main jet size and lower the needle? Will a main jet change affect the
midrange? Don Walker HDS TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Don,
What you describe is detailed to some exactitude on page 18 of the Bing
Carburettors Aircraft tuning and
parts manual. Picking up power with the enriching circuit (choke) suggests
you're running lean if the EGTs
are reduced. If you lower the needle, you will lean the engine further and
risk damage to the engine. They recommend doing only one thing at a time.
I'd consider just another size jet first. I'm using 170s and my
needle is on 3, one notch from the richest setting. Not being satisfied
with trying to estimate by EGTs, I'm going to purchase a Colortune plug from
Bing Monday. Then it might be possible to see better what these changes do.
Yes, a main jet change will affect the midrange. It sound like you need the
manual from Bing.
Larry McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: carb jets
>
> For the heck of it, after reading the posts on carb jets, I flew to
> experiment with the enrichener. In the midrange, pulling the enrichener
> (choke) increased the rpm by about 150. Then in the main jet range adding
> the enrichener made no difference.
> On a cooler day I did the same and found that the midrange increased even
> more and the main jet range rpm increased by about 50 when enrichened. Is
> it likely that lowering the needle in the midrange will affect them both.
> Should I increase main jet size and lower the needle? Will a main jet
> change affect the midrange? Don Walker HDS TD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re-drive bearings |
Someone mentioned last week the task of changing bearings in the Stratus
reduction drive. How bad a job IS that, anyway? Do I need gear pullers and an
arbor press, or is it not that complex?
Danny W.
Kitfox 5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re-drive bearings |
> Someone mentioned last week the task of changing bearings in the Stratus
> reduction drive. How bad a job IS that, anyway? Do I need gear pullers and
> an
> arbor press, or is it not that complex?
>
> Danny W.
> Kitfox 5
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Danny,
Go back & search the achieves as I believe this was discussed here about a
year ago.
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re-drive bearings |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Just normal tools.Easy job..I heated my alu gear in the oven on about
150F before I dropped the bearings in...Virtually fell into place,
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of The
Meiste's
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: re-drive bearings
> Someone mentioned last week the task of changing bearings in the
> Stratus reduction drive. How bad a job IS that, anyway? Do I need gear
> pullers and an arbor press, or is it not that complex?
>
> Danny W.
> Kitfox 5
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Danny,
Go back & search the achieves as I believe this was discussed here about
a
year ago.
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Subaru ICM failure? and ignition performance |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Seems several of the IC107 coils have gone to low resistance on the
primary coil...Less than 1ohm I believe. The coil would still work but
as you say the $300 ND chip will fry itself.
It's a hassle but the TP45 chip wired to the stock PU coil (which will
still be fine) is a much more robust system....You could even continue
to run the old coil but for $50 I think I would change it.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of The
Meiste's
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Subaru ICM failure? and ignition performance
> I noticed that several people had failures with the
> Subaru Nippodenso ignition control module. Was the
> module used with the Subaru Nippodenso K31 coil (the
> stock coil)? Or with something else?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Michel,
I fly the Stratus engine in my 601 and lost my ign in flight at 60 hours
on
the Hobbs. My coil (IC107) failed causing my ICM inside the ND
distributor
to fry it's self.
Kelly Meiste
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re-drive bearings |
Danny,
I replaced my redrive bearings last year. It was no too bad and you do not need
any special tooling.
I have a text document and some photos on how I performed the replacement. If you
or anyone else would like these, I will e-mail them directly to you. The zip
file containing the document and photos is a bit large at about 1.7k bytes.
Let me know.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 378.0 flight
hrs. - 506 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Winter flying...... |
Hi guys,
My Stratus powered 601 is in its first winter season and temperatures have dropped
to the low teens. I'm wondering how cold is too cold to fly. Given that
the engine is kept warm, will it be able to stay at normal operating temps, or
are there things needed to keep it going? I'm looking at reducing radiator exposure
a bit, but not sure how much. Are there any other problems out there?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter flying...... |
Hi Larry,
I do a few minor tweaks when preparing my Stratus (and me) for winter
flying.
1. As you noted block off rad as required (most I've done so far is 3/4
closed).
2. Change from 20W-50 to 10W-30 Castrol GTX.
3. Change from my summer 40% coolant, to 60% coolant.
4. Make sure as many cockpit air leaks are sealed off as possible.
5. Go to F&F and stock up on toe warmers.
6. As long as your at F&F purchase one of those round 5 gallon bucket
cushions the ice fishermen use to sit on and place it in your seat (it does
actually provide some warmth, thou it's a little uncomfortable to sit on).
7. Don't forget to ask Santa for a new pair of Long Johns (you have been
good this year haven't you?).
8. Make sure you have a good quality pair of sunglasses as the newly fallen
snow, & bright sun combined with a polished aluminum plane will give a whole
new meaning to "blinded by the light".
9. Watch your tires air pressures as they will drop quickly compared to the
summer.
10. Have fun! I really love winter flying as the air is generally glassy
smooth. And as much as you may like try to resist kissing your beautiful
bird in the winter as your lips (or tongue) will surely stick to the
aluminum, and you don't want Lee to see that now do you!
Kelly
(Hanger frame still standing after the 60 MPH winds this week)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Stratus-List: Winter flying......
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> My Stratus powered 601 is in its first winter season and temperatures have
> dropped to the low teens. I'm wondering how cold is too cold to fly.
> Given that the engine is kept warm, will it be able to stay at normal
> operating temps, or are there things needed to keep it going? I'm looking
> at reducing radiator exposure a bit, but not sure how much. Are there any
> other problems out there?
>
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=S58+ANUbOnLpYi2w8LX2+fY/yit2VVxEJQVxQsta1n8qWVsFT9CrNk0UluyrH2PPXVJMePSdwbnLktFbgpGwq6hj7/Dtor2UXImedEUWo2Zd4O+Qz77xJFZ+gUM8ICOZ7QndBNSYxGk01WnCMUYR36tqx/znA1hCdIlHAPm7YQk;
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Winter flying...... |
Larry,
To what the others had said, I'd only add --> What's the coldest weather
in which you'd drive a Subaru equipped with an EA-81 engine? That's the
coldest you should fly in. As long as you're not in icing conditions, the
plane shouldn't care, may even fly better in the cold.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
Hi guys,
My Stratus powered 601 is in its first winter season and temperatures have
dropped to the low teens. I'm wondering how cold is too cold to fly. Given
that the engine is kept warm, will it be able to stay at normal operating
temps, or are there things needed to keep it going? I'm looking at reducing
radiator exposure a bit, but not sure how much. Are there any other problems
out there?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Winter flying...... |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
It will but remember if there is any water in the tanks it will be
ice...As long as you have been diligent in draining the tanks when it
was above freezing it should be just fine.
I'd be more worried about keeping myself warm....:)
Frank
Zodiac, Stratus 350 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Raker
Subject: Stratus-List: Winter flying......
Larry,
To what the others had said, I'd only add --> What's the coldest
weather in which you'd drive a Subaru equipped with an EA-81 engine?
That's the coldest you should fly in. As long as you're not in icing
conditions, the plane shouldn't care, may even fly better in the cold.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% completed
-->
Hi guys,
My Stratus powered 601 is in its first winter season and temperatures
have
dropped to the low teens. I'm wondering how cold is too cold to fly.
Given that the engine is kept warm, will it be able to stay at normal
operating temps, or are there things needed to keep it going? I'm
looking at reducing radiator exposure a bit, but not sure how much. Are
there any other problems out there?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter flying...... |
> It will but remember if there is any water in the tanks it will be
> ice...As long as you have been diligent in draining the tanks when it
> was above freezing it should be just fine.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Thanks for jarring my brain on this Frank.
Has anyone ever noticed water come out of their header tank (that's all I
have) when you drain the gasolator?
I have the standard ZAC 16 gal header tank & ZAC gasolator located low on
the firewall and have yet to see any water in my inspection jar. Like Larry
I'm in northern IL. not Arizona???
Kelly
601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs into the
archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of "discovery". The "Bing
Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is needed to fully visualize
this information. Bing can be reached at 1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only
$8.00. (Yes, the spelling is correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier
and primer for getting correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till
it's right, so for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle mixture-jets
adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72 mid-range jets. (Note;
all jets have the number stamped on each one.) The mid-range jet-needles came
with 2 scribed rings on their diameters for identification and on the jet-needle
4 snap-ring notches, the circlips were set at the #2 position or second
notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The rework also
provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are recommended by Ron at Ram to
get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees. Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500
degrees is fine with an upper limit short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were too high
for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200 rpm. (Still
too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set higher to enrich
fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down to the #3 notch. This
made a serious difference and I could cruise at 4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees
EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which
I felt might be high for continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types because of
concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the carburetors, provided
more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool weather also seemed to
increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I had not yet
increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72 with 2.76 jets and
lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent of a one-jet change would
work. 174 mains were also changed to 176 jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes
brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather quickly. The needle jet was then raised
by re-setting the circlip down to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm,
but no higher. Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at higher
rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and holding short, watched
pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was given for takeoff. Climb out
was impressive, and EGTs were slow to climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms
to 4400 and turned south to the practice area and EGTs came down to 1435.
Rpms were lowered to a comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest
change from increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400
on takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other temps
were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced with the
original foam types to see if they would make a difference. Went home for lunch.
Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in 16 mph winds to lift off
very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower and never got past 1420 on takeoff.
After leveling the plane, I headed south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set
back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at 1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference
from the right to left sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the
EGTs would level out at 1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact
on mixture than I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I
can cruise at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen evidence that
re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better. Plugs soot up at idle
and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so I purchased a high-compression
Colortune plug from Bing. This will permit actually seeing the mixture
and rpms from idle to 4000, but no further. Haven't used it yet as focus has
been on the high end and getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install
an O2 sensor to confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of the first
straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a hose-clamp that
also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This thing
is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and immediately displaying
an alarm-light while pointing out any out-of-limit condition. It's
an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51, to where
it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific jet and needle
setting information for this engine. That's as much as I know at this time.
If you've been there done that, have a comment or objection, please do, so
we can all compare notes and learn from the collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs into the
archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of "discovery". The "Bing
Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is needed to fully visualize
this information. Bing can be reached at 1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only
$8.00. (Yes, the spelling is correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier
and primer for getting correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till
it's right, so for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle mixture-jets
adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72 mid-range jets. (Note;
all jets have the number stamped on each one.) The mid-range jet-needles came
with 2 scribed rings on their diameters for identification and on the jet-needle
4 snap-ring notches, the circlips were set at the #2 position or second
notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The rework also
provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are recommended by Ron at Ram to
get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees. Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500
degrees is fine with an upper limit short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were too high
for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200 rpm. (Still
too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set higher to enrich
fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down to the #3 notch. This
made a serious difference and I could cruise at 4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees
EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which
I felt might be high for continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types because of
concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the carburetors, provided
more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool weather also seemed to
increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I had not yet
increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72 with 2.76 jets and
lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent of a one-jet change would
work. 174 mains were also changed to 176 jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes
brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather quickly. The needle jet was then raised
by re-setting the circlip down to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm,
but no higher. Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at higher
rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and holding short, watched
pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was given for takeoff. Climb out
was impressive, and EGTs were slow to climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms
to 4400 and turned south to the practice area and EGTs came down to 1435.
Rpms were lowered to a comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest
change from increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400
on takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other temps
were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced with the
original foam types to see if they would make a difference. Went home for lunch.
Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in 16 mph winds to lift off
very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower and never got past 1420 on takeoff.
After leveling the plane, I headed south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set
back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at 1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference
from the right to left sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the
EGTs would level out at 1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact
on mixture than I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I
can cruise at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen evidence that
re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better. Plugs soot up at idle
and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so I purchased a high-compression
Colortune plug from Bing. This will permit actually seeing the mixture
and rpms from idle to 4000, but no further. Haven't used it yet as focus has
been on the high end and getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install
an O2 sensor to confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of the first
straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a hose-clamp that
also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This thing
is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and immediately displaying
an alarm-light while pointing out any out-of-limit condition. It's
an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51, to where
it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific jet and needle
setting information for this engine. That's as much as I know at this time.
If you've been there done that, have a comment or objection, please do, so
we can all compare notes and learn from the collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
> Larry,
> Thanks for taking the time to write & post your findings on the Bing
> Jetting, very interesting!
yes, thanks very much Larry - much appreciated.
gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
-->
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are too
lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high RPM
for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped some.
Jim Weston
601HDS, Stratus
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
-->
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
-->
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
That's hard to say Jim.
I can say that when my heads came back from Ram the engine was running
WAY lean...I can't say for sure this was the case as stock from Stratus.
Being as however Mykal's engine shop said repeatedly there were signs of
overheating when my guides kept falling out (cus I forgot to do a rain
dance before I got in the plane...or was that due to the fact I flew
when there was a "Y" in the month?), it is a fair suspicion that these
motors were not jetted correctly from the get go.
The EGT guages really are of very limited benefit...I would save the
time to do a proper tie down test and test the jetting per the Bing
manual, or by hooking up an exhaust gas mixture gauge.
Both my main and needle jets had to be upsized considerably.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Weston,
Jim
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are too
lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high RPM
for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped some.
Jim Weston
601HDS, Stratus
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
-->
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
-->
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
> So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are too
> lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
> gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high RPM
> for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
> mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped some.
Nope - I don't have EGT's and never messed with my engine at all. I
reploaced foam filters with K&N and have RAM heads so I guess I'd better
check. The engine has always started and run perfectly so I was never
concerned. Plugs looked fine when I checked, and water, engine and oil
temps are fine even at extended WOT. I bought EGT's when I bought the
engine but never installed them. I guess it's time, now I want to know.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
> So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are too
> lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
> gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high RPM
> for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
> mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped some.
>
> Jim Weston
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jim,
My Stratus seems to be the same as yours. I'm not running EGT's either and
have always had trouble with high water & oil temps. I've have also gone to
the 3rd ring groove in my needle also with a slight improvement. I seem to
be running fine at the moment but will probably try larger jets soon.
Kelly Meiste
(stock Stratus heads)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
> Nope - I don't have EGT's and never messed with my engine at all. I
> reploaced foam filters with K&N and have RAM heads so I guess I'd better
> check. The engine has always started and run perfectly so I was never
> concerned. Plugs looked fine when I checked, and water, engine and oil
> temps are fine even at extended WOT. I bought EGT's when I bought the
> engine but never installed them. I guess it's time, now I want to know.
>
> Gary
Pleased you're looking into this. It'll be interesting to find out
how your engine was set up and what jets you find in your Bings.
Very curious to hear. Also, at the very least, hook up those EGTs and get
some readings.
It'd be really good to be able to establish a baseline of temps for
comparison.
Regards,
Larry McFarland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Jim, You might check your jet size compared to this report. Mine came from Stratus
with smaller main jets...162 rather than the 164 reported here. Mine ran smooth
as a sewing machine until this week when I changed the jetting. I put in
a 165 main, which seems to do well, and enriched the mid-range two notches. Now
I am going to do what you did...bring the mid-range back up to the third notch.
Also remember that some here are getting more air flow with the Ram heads.
don walker----- Original Message -----
From: Weston, Jim<mailto:Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are too
lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high RPM
for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped some.
Jim Weston
601HDS, Stratus
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40 idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs. Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information, so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S. This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com<http://www.macsmachine.com/>
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Thanks to everyone for all of the feedback.
Don...You say that yours ran as smooth as a sewing machine until this
week. Did installing richer main jets cause it to run rough? Mine
humms along smoothly also. Wouldn't want to lose that.
I've thought several times about installing an oil cooler, since when I
run higher RPM the oil temp seems to rise first, followed by the engine
temp. Haven't gotten around to the oil cooler yet.
I've also been studying prop pitch settings, since Mykal at Stratus
recommended that I start with a 17.5 degree pitch to keep the rpm down
(I've never run it that high). Someone sent around a nice spreadsheet
with graph curves that has really helped in trying different pitch
settings and checking the performance curves as I make the changes. It
even tells you if you need to increase the pitch or decrease it to head
toward your goal. I collected this spreadsheet months ago. Does anyone
know if there is a more recent version? If accurate, it is good. It's
for a 601HDS.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
Jim, You might check your jet size compared to this report. Mine came
from Stratus with smaller main jets...162 rather than the 164 reported
here. Mine ran smooth as a sewing machine until this week when I changed
the jetting. I put in a 165 main, which seems to do well, and enriched
the mid-range two notches. Now I am going to do what you did...bring the
mid-range back up to the third notch. Also remember that some here are
getting more air flow with the Ram heads. don walker----- Original
Message -----
From: Weston, Jim<mailto:Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are
too
lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high
RPM
for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped
some.
Jim Weston
601HDS, Stratus
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is
I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing
carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40
idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would
still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs.
Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the
equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees
rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip
down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens
at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to
the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out
in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was
slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I
headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in
at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to
left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out
at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run
better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information,
so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S.
This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as
I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com<http://www.macsmachine.com/>
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Hi Jim,
The main jet seems to be good at 165 on mine...a change from the 162. It ran
rough last week with the midrange on the bottom notch. Last weekend I moved that
up to the third, just like yours and that is working well. I also took a lot
of time balancing the carbs.
To summarize, mine ran very smoothly with the 162 but I knew it was at least
slightly lean in the mid and high ranges...particularly in cooler weather. Now
I am pleased to say the engine is running better...smoother than ever throughout
the throttle range and seems to have better power. The roughness at the
2800 rpm setting was reduced to negligible. I am beginning to think much of any
roughness in the midrange was due to a little carb imbalance. It has always
been smooth above 3800 until backing off the power. Now it is much smoother in
backing off the power throughout the range.
Regarding oil temps...I hear many running oil temps higher. Just a note...with
a heat muff and an adjustable door in front of my oil pan, my oil temps never
exceed 190 even in the hot summer, though the head will get up to 215 in a
climb. don
----- Original Message -----
From: Weston, Jim<mailto:Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 8:26 AM
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
Thanks to everyone for all of the feedback.
Don...You say that yours ran as smooth as a sewing machine until this
week. Did installing richer main jets cause it to run rough? Mine
humms along smoothly also. Wouldn't want to lose that.
I've thought several times about installing an oil cooler, since when I
run higher RPM the oil temp seems to rise first, followed by the engine
temp. Haven't gotten around to the oil cooler yet.
I've also been studying prop pitch settings, since Mykal at Stratus
recommended that I start with a 17.5 degree pitch to keep the rpm down
(I've never run it that high). Someone sent around a nice spreadsheet
with graph curves that has really helped in trying different pitch
settings and checking the performance curves as I make the changes. It
even tells you if you need to increase the pitch or decrease it to head
toward your goal. I collected this spreadsheet months ago. Does anyone
know if there is a more recent version? If accurate, it is good. It's
for a 601HDS.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
Jim, You might check your jet size compared to this report. Mine came
from Stratus with smaller main jets...162 rather than the 164 reported
here. Mine ran smooth as a sewing machine until this week when I changed
the jetting. I put in a 165 main, which seems to do well, and enriched
the mid-range two notches. Now I am going to do what you did...bring the
mid-range back up to the third notch. Also remember that some here are
getting more air flow with the Ram heads. don walker----- Original
Message -----
From: Weston, Jim<mailto:Jim.Weston(at)delta.com<mailto:Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 12:55 PM
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>>
So am I to take it that everyone has been finding that the jets are
too
lean at cruise, as the engine comes from Stratus? I don't have EGT
gauges. This might explain why I've never been able to run at high
RPM
for long before the temps (engine & oil) start to climb. I changed my
mid-range needle to the 3rd ring, some time back, and this helped
some.
Jim Weston
601HDS, Stratus
Concord, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde,
Frank George (Corvallis)
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >>
Your experience pretty much mirros mine Larry, the only difference is
I
ended up with a cruise EGT of 1450. The mixture were confirmed correct
by the exhaust gas analyser.
I can't remember what jets I ended up with finally.
Thanks
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
--> >>
Hi guys, (fellow Stratus EA-81 users)
I think it's time to put the experience of re-jetting Stratus-Bing
carbs
into the archives. Perhaps it'll reduce your time and expense of
"discovery". The "Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning & Parts Manual" is
needed to fully visualize this information. Bing can be reached at
1-800-309-2464 weekdays and it's only $8.00. (Yes, the spelling is
correct) The manual is a good parts-identifier and primer for getting
correct mixture, but you have to do the guesswork till it's right, so
for the Stratus, that's what this piece is about.
My Stratus engine with Bing carburetor's initially came with No.40
idle
mixture-jets adjusted 2-turns from closed, 164 main jets and 2.72
mid-range jets. (Note; all jets have the number stamped on each one.)
The mid-range jet-needles came with 2 scribed rings on their diameters
for identification and on the jet-needle 4 snap-ring notches, the
circlips were set at the #2 position or second notch from the top.
Ram Performance installed new S.S. valves, springs and guides. The
rework also provides more airflow, so increased jet sizes are
recommended by Ron at Ram to get a target cruise EGT of 1350-degrees.
Mykal at Stratus says 1400 to 1500 degrees is fine with an upper limit
short duration 1600-degrees.
With high EGTs, I changed to 170 main jets. EGTs came down, but were
too high for takeoff rpms. 180 main jets were tried but the engine ran
rough with these.
With 174 mains, the plane flew well. EGTs reached 1400 degrees at 4200
rpm. (Still too high for higher rpms) The mid-range jet-needle was set
higher to enrich fuel mixture by moving the circlip from #2 notch down
to the #3 notch. This made a serious difference and I could cruise at
4600 rpm all day at 1390 degrees EGT. At full 5100, the EGT would
still
slowly climb above 1450-degrees, which I felt might be high for
continuous running.
Without initially knowing, I changed out the air filters to K&N types
because of concern for the foam. This reduced air resistance into the
carburetors, provided more air, leaner mixture and increased EGTs.
Cool
weather also seemed to increase EGTs.
On a Bing phone inquiry/discussion, the technical rep was surprised I
had not yet increased mid-range jetting and suggested I replace 2.72
with 2.76 jets and lower the needles one notch to see if the
equivalent
of a one-jet change would work. 174 mains were also changed to 176
jets. A 3500-rpm run-up with brakes brought EGTs to 1400-degrees
rather
quickly. The needle jet was then raised by re-setting the circlip
down
to #3 notch and the EGTs climbed to 1290 at 3500-rpm, but no higher.
Quite a difference!
Was anxious to fly these jet and needle settings to see what happens
at
higher rpms. Today, at 40-degrees, winds at 10, I taxied to 31 and
holding short, watched pre-heated oil reach 240 until clearance was
given for takeoff. Climb out was impressive, and EGTs were slow to
climb to 1450 at 5100, so I reduced rpms to 4400 and turned south to
the
practice area and EGTs came down to 1435. Rpms were lowered to a
comfortable 4300 and EGTs stabilized at 1420. The largest change from
increasing jet sizes was the slow mid range climb through 1400 on
takeoff. I flew an hour and then returned to land on 27. All other
temps were normal throughout the flight.
Back at the hangar, the K&N type air filters were removed and replaced
with the original foam types to see if they would make a difference.
Went home for lunch. Afterward, I refueled the plane and taxied out
in
16 mph winds to lift off very quickly from 31. The EGT rise was
slower
and never got past 1420 on takeoff. After leveling the plane, I
headed
south for 15 minutes. Rpms were set back to 4350 and EGTs settled in
at
1375. There's still about a 40-degree difference from the right to
left
sides. I tried raising the rpms to 5000 and the EGTs would level out
at
1425. The old foam filters had a much greater impact on mixture than
I'd have thought. EGTs are satisfactory to this point as I can cruise
at 115 to 120 without getting much beyond a 1400-degree limit.
My Engine timing is set to 30-degrees at 4500 rpm. I haven't seen
evidence that re-timing 1 or 2 degrees either way helped it run
better.
Plugs soot up at idle and plug color doesn't offer exact information,
so
I purchased a high-compression Colortune plug from Bing. This will
permit actually seeing the mixture and rpms from idle to 4000, but no
further. Haven't used it yet as focus has been on the high end and
getting Horsepower at lower EGTs. I expect to install an O2 sensor to
confirm running mixtures when the jet settings have been flown.
EGT sensors are installed 3-1/2" from the exhaust flange in the top of
the first straight after the bend. They are a probe-type secured by a
hose-clamp that also grips a belting heat wrap on the exhaust pipes to
protect the cowling.
All engine data is displayed on a Grand Rapids Technologies E I S.
This
thing is indispensable for showing all real-time engine parameters and
immediately displaying an alarm-light while pointing out any
out-of-limit condition. It's an easy set-up too!
Earlier this season, the radiator was moved back as a P51,
to where it was and it works very well.
Please forgive the lengthy diatribe, but the archives needed specific
jet and needle setting information for this engine. That's as much as
I
know at this time. If you've been there done that, have a comment or
objection, please do, so we can all compare notes and learn from the
collective experience.
Thanks guys,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with Stratus Subaru and Ram Performance heads
at www.macsmachine.com<http://www.macsmachine.com/>>
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Thanks Don,
I'm assuming that you're thinking that the heat muff shields the back of
the oil pan from the muffler? I don't need the heat muff, but I have
thought about installing some sort of heat shield between the muffler
and the back of the oil pan. I may actually be getting false high
readings from the oil temp due to the radiated heat from the muffler.
That oil temp sensor is right on the back side of the oil pan. I've
also thought about drilling thru that nut that the sensor screws into on
the back of the pan, so that the sensor is actually bathed in the oil.
But I worry about causing a leak.
Thanks Again,
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
Hi Jim,
The main jet seems to be good at 165 on mine...a change from the 162.
It ran rough last week with the midrange on the bottom notch. Last
weekend I moved that up to the third, just like yours and that is
working well. I also took a lot of time balancing the carbs.
To summarize, mine ran very smoothly with the 162 but I knew it was
at least slightly lean in the mid and high ranges...particularly in
cooler weather. Now I am pleased to say the engine is running
better...smoother than ever throughout the throttle range and seems to
have better power. The roughness at the 2800 rpm setting was reduced to
negligible. I am beginning to think much of any roughness in the
midrange was due to a little carb imbalance. It has always been smooth
above 3800 until backing off the power. Now it is much smoother in
backing off the power throughout the range.
Regarding oil temps...I hear many running oil temps higher. Just a
note...with a heat muff and an adjustable door in front of my oil pan,
my oil temps never exceed 190 even in the hot summer, though the head
will get up to 215 in a climb. don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters |
Jim,
I went thru many many revisions of my cooling system, and when I was
trying to get it to work with the stock exhaust I played with a heat shield
and trying to get better airflow over the pan and muffler. The heat shield
helped a little but I got tired of making minor changes to a system that was
marginal. I know you're not interested in a major redesign, but it was like
night and day when I finally made the big change. I'll try to dig out some
notes, but I was thinking the same as you - possibly radiated
heat onto the sensor, and I was disappointed at the results. I think it's
radiated heat onto the whole oil pan, not just the sensor. So I think it's
a valid oil temp reading. Easy enough to try the heat shield but if it's
marginal, it'll only make it less marginal. It was very obvious when I
moved the exhaust that things were right, very glad I did it. Next is ram
air and exhaust augmented cooling, and hopefully a Quinti/Sensenich prop.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
> Thanks Don,
>
> I'm assuming that you're thinking that the heat muff shields the back of
> the oil pan from the muffler? I don't need the heat muff, but I have
> thought about installing some sort of heat shield between the muffler
> and the back of the oil pan. I may actually be getting false high
> readings from the oil temp due to the radiated heat from the muffler.
> That oil temp sensor is right on the back side of the oil pan. I've
> also thought about drilling thru that nut that the sensor screws into on
> the back of the pan, so that the sensor is actually bathed in the oil.
> But I worry about causing a leak.
>
> Thanks Again,
> Jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
>
> Hi Jim,
> The main jet seems to be good at 165 on mine...a change from the 162.
> It ran rough last week with the midrange on the bottom notch. Last
> weekend I moved that up to the third, just like yours and that is
> working well. I also took a lot of time balancing the carbs.
> To summarize, mine ran very smoothly with the 162 but I knew it was
> at least slightly lean in the mid and high ranges...particularly in
> cooler weather. Now I am pleased to say the engine is running
> better...smoother than ever throughout the throttle range and seems to
> have better power. The roughness at the 2800 rpm setting was reduced to
> negligible. I am beginning to think much of any roughness in the
> midrange was due to a little carb imbalance. It has always been smooth
> above 3800 until backing off the power. Now it is much smoother in
> backing off the power throughout the range.
> Regarding oil temps...I hear many running oil temps higher. Just a
> note...with a heat muff and an adjustable door in front of my oil pan,
> my oil temps never exceed 190 even in the hot summer, though the head
> will get up to 215 in a climb. don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
Don,
I went thru many many revisions of my cooling system, and when I was
trying to get it to work with the stock exhaust I played with a heat shield
and trying to get better airflow over the pan and muffler. The heat shield
helped a little but I got tired of making minor changes to a system that was
marginal. I know you're not interested in a major redesign, but it was like
night and day when I finally made the big change. I'll try to dig out some
notes, but I was thinking the same as you - possibly radiated
heat onto the sensor, and I was disappointed at the results. I think it's
radiated heat onto the whole oil pan, not just the sensor. So I think it's
a valid oil temp reading. Easy enough to try the heat shield but if it's
marginal, it'll only make it less marginal. It was very obvious when I
moved the exhaust that things were right, very glad I did it. Next is ram
air and exhaust augmented cooling, and hopefully a Quinti/Sensenich prop.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
> Thanks Don,
>
> I'm assuming that you're thinking that the heat muff shields the back of
> the oil pan from the muffler? I don't need the heat muff, but I have
> thought about installing some sort of heat shield between the muffler
> and the back of the oil pan. I may actually be getting false high
> readings from the oil temp due to the radiated heat from the muffler.
> That oil temp sensor is right on the back side of the oil pan. I've
> also thought about drilling thru that nut that the sensor screws into on
> the back of the pan, so that the sensor is actually bathed in the oil.
> But I worry about causing a leak.
>
> Thanks Again,
> Jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Jetting Stratus Bing Carbureters
>
>
> Hi Jim,
> The main jet seems to be good at 165 on mine...a change from the 162.
> It ran rough last week with the midrange on the bottom notch. Last
> weekend I moved that up to the third, just like yours and that is
> working well. I also took a lot of time balancing the carbs.
> To summarize, mine ran very smoothly with the 162 but I knew it was
> at least slightly lean in the mid and high ranges...particularly in
> cooler weather. Now I am pleased to say the engine is running
> better...smoother than ever throughout the throttle range and seems to
> have better power. The roughness at the 2800 rpm setting was reduced to
> negligible. I am beginning to think much of any roughness in the
> midrange was due to a little carb imbalance. It has always been smooth
> above 3800 until backing off the power. Now it is much smoother in
> backing off the power throughout the range.
> Regarding oil temps...I hear many running oil temps higher. Just a
> note...with a heat muff and an adjustable door in front of my oil pan,
> my oil temps never exceed 190 even in the hot summer, though the head
> will get up to 215 in a climb. don
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Hi guys,
The winter weather has my hangar in its grip and
the 601 is enjoying the benefit of a oil-warming heater
but, I'm concerned about water condensing
within the top of my fuel tank. There's about 2" that
remains open because of the overflow tube that leads out
to the wing. Should I be using one of the anti-water products
like Heet or such in this engine? The likelihood is that
for 2 to 4 weeks, the plane will set idle and the fuel will get
stale or worse accumulate moisture. Any opinions?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus Subaru using 87-octane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! |
Dear Listers,
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heet products? |
Hi Larry,
I was a little leery of adding "Heet" because I was afraid of putting to
much alcohol thru the Bing carbs.
This may be a good question to ask Bing. I've gotten their OK to use
gasohol, but I never asked about adding a can of Heet to the fuel. At times
in the winter I have added fuel stab when I new the plane would be sitting
more than a few weeks.
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | bearing maintenance |
Gotta repack my prop shaft bearings. Can anyone shed some light on how to
remove those nuts off the back of the prop shaft? I tried the hammer-and-drift
punch routine. Didn't even budge. Those are come fine maintenance
instructions in the manual, eh?
Danny Williamson
Kitfox 5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hello Larry,
I never had any problems with water in the tanks except when parked over
night outside in a little mountanous get-away with the song birds
tweating and.....Sorry Monday morning romatacising..:)
Yes I saw a little water in the bottom of the tank. All I did was to
shake the wing to get any condensation off the top airspace, complete my
preflight and then drain the water off the bottom.
No probs!
Surprised you use 87 octane. I and a few others had problems with the
engine running on when the ignition was killed which spelled preignition
to us. Even happened with 89 octane but went away with 92 octane.
Just a thought.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: Heet products?
-->
Hi guys,
The winter weather has my hangar in its grip and the 601 is enjoying the
benefit of a oil-warming heater but, I'm concerned about water
condensing within the top of my fuel tank. There's about 2" that
remains open because of the overflow tube that leads out to the wing.
Should I be using one of the anti-water products like Heet or such in
this engine? The likelihood is that for 2 to 4 weeks, the plane will
set idle and the fuel will get stale or worse accumulate moisture. Any
opinions?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus Subaru using 87-octane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | bearing maintenance |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
I assume that you have noticed that there is a very large locking washer
with bend down tabs to hold it in place. You need to bend the tabs up.
Jim Weston
601HDS
Concord, Ga
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N53dw(at)aol.com
Subject: Stratus-List: bearing maintenance
Gotta repack my prop shaft bearings. Can anyone shed some light on how
to remove those nuts off the back of the prop shaft? I tried the
hammer-and-drift punch routine. Didn't even budge. Those are come fine
maintenance instructions in the manual, eh?
Danny Williamson
Kitfox 5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <rmrlpfm(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Reiner Hoffman, are you there? |
Reiner Hoffman, are you still out there? Sure would love to hear from
you again, long time my friend...
Mike Heit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reiner Hoffman, are you there? |
he's probably not on this list Michael (unfortunately). I asked Matt at
Matronics to start this list and it's mostly a handful of guys from the
Zenith list. I'm not sure who else may have joined but I doubt Reiner or
even Mykal at Stratus are on the list. Just us owners trying to keep them
flying safely.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Heit" <rmrlpfm(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Stratus-List: Reiner Hoffman, are you there?
>
> Reiner Hoffman, are you still out there? Sure would love to hear from
> you again, long time my friend...
> Mike Heit
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <rmrlpfm(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Reiner Hoffman ... |
Thanks Gary, Mykal is a great guy too, really knows those soobs inside
and out. I knew him from NSI when I was out there building an Avid
Magnum. Was going to put an NSI EJ-22 in it but ended up using an O-360
in it. NSI was good at details, but their gear box sucked .... left me
in a no power situation in Montana in a Kitfox .. landed on a rural dirt
road .... the drive shaft int eh gear reduction unit was trashed ....
and Lance at NSI was a cockroach. Other than that, was a good engine. I
hated the Ellison throttle body. If I had it to do over again, would
have gone with the Stratus conversion. It is lighter, more reliable. Are
you flying a Stratus engine? EA-81??
>
>he's probably not on this list Michael (unfortunately). I asked Matt at
>Matronics to start this list and it's mostly a handful of guys from the
>Zenith list. I'm not sure who else may have joined but I doubt Reiner or
>even Mykal at Stratus are on the list. Just us owners trying to keep them
>flying safely.
>
>Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reiner Hoffman ... |
> hated the Ellison throttle body. If I had it to do over again, would
> have gone with the Stratus conversion. It is lighter, more reliable. Are
> you flying a Stratus engine? EA-81??
yes, and I'm really happy with it. There were a handful of engines that
dropped some valve guides so a lot of guys (including me) had the heads
reworked just to be safe, and a few cracked engine mounts on the Zenith
version but overall I think there are a lot out there that have held up
really well.
Still flying the Magnum? Nice plane, must be a real workhorse with a 360 in
it.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reiner Hoffman ... |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hmmm...Quite a few have dropped valve guides...My engine dropped
three...Ram Performance now make stepped valve guides and heat shrink
them in place.
Stratus redrive is good but I would not trust their head shop anymore.
Frank
Zodiac 601 Stratus with Ram heads
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Reiner Hoffman ...
> hated the Ellison throttle body. If I had it to do over again, would
> have gone with the Stratus conversion. It is lighter, more reliable.
> Are you flying a Stratus engine? EA-81??
yes, and I'm really happy with it. There were a handful of engines that
dropped some valve guides so a lot of guys (including me) had the heads
reworked just to be safe, and a few cracked engine mounts on the Zenith
version but overall I think there are a lot out there that have held up
really well.
Still flying the Magnum? Nice plane, must be a real workhorse with a
360 in it.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | balancing the carbs |
Hi guys.
I have just discovered this list and finished reading the archives which have
been a great info source. Myself and a friend have two identical wood/fabric
float planes powered by a stratus EA81 in the Vancouver area. We both just
bought them off the original builders. Mine has about 200 hours on it, and the
heads were done sometime ago, no problem with the engine mounts as yet, but I
have notice the alternator bracket is cracked. The other plane just had the
heads redone after about 40 hours TT and their ignition has just failed. We
area both about to go through our first fuel pump as well. We also have
vibration in certain ranges that sounds similar to what people have discussed
here. Pretty standard stuff it seems.
To reduce vibrations people have suggested the following. (1) balance the carbs
(2) ensure correct belt tension and tracking and (3) get a prop balance. When
balancing the carbs how have people achieved this? When my friends tried to
balance theirs they removed the crossover tube and pluged in the vacuum but a
got wildly fluctuating bouncing up and down between two values. Some ideas
tossed around thought this may be because of the firing order causing all
vacuum, no vacuum, all vacuum, no vacuum etc. I have read of people installing
a "T" in the crossover tube, but then you are just measuring the agregate of
the different pressures so I am not sure how you make sure both are producing
even vacuum? Any ideas appreciated.
Regards
BRETT RUEFF
Vancouver
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: balancing the carbs |
Brett,
I've done as you've described with mostly good results, but a piece of
equipment you guys could share is a "Twinmax" for balancing carbs from Bing.
They're $70 or so, but you remove the screw at the protruding stem
next to the idle screw and hook up a plastic tube to each carb. Block off
the crossover hose with a plug and short hose stubs. You get a very precise
reading from the Twinmax that you can adjust to while running.
The other thing is your linkage carb to carb. If you're using two cables
and the spring on throttles to actuate them, singular adjustments are
difficult.
I did a cross linkage that flexes and attaches to the throttle shaft, is
adjustable
but holds the alignment of throttle plates very exactly and requires only
one
throttle arm of the two Bings to be connected to your panel throttle cable.
My site below has pictures on the control linkages and subaru engine pages
if it's even applicable to your birds.
Bings phone number is 1-800-309-2464 and you should probably get the
Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning and Parts Manual for $8.00 if you don't
have one as well.
Larry McFarland - 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
Subject: Stratus-List: balancing the carbs
>
> Hi guys.
>
> I have just discovered this list and finished reading the archives which
> have
> been a great info source. Myself and a friend have two identical
> wood/fabric
> float planes powered by a stratus EA81 in the Vancouver area. >
> To reduce vibrations people have suggested the following.
(1) balance the carbs
> (2) ensure correct belt tension and tracking and (3) get a prop balance.
> When
> balancing the carbs how have people achieved this? When my friends tried
> to
> balance theirs they removed the crossover tube and pluged in the vacuum
> but a
> got wildly fluctuating bouncing up and down between two values. Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
> Regards
> BRETT RUEFF
> Vancouver
> rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: balancing the carbs |
Thanks Larry, i'll look into that. I was planning on getting the bing manual
anyway.
Brett
Quoting Larry McFarland :
>
> Brett,
> I've done as you've described with mostly good results, but a piece of
> equipment you guys could share is a "Twinmax" for balancing carbs from Bing.
> They're $70 or so, but you remove the screw at the protruding stem
> next to the idle screw and hook up a plastic tube to each carb. Block off
> the crossover hose with a plug and short hose stubs. You get a very precise
> reading from the Twinmax that you can adjust to while running.
>
> The other thing is your linkage carb to carb. If you're using two cables
> and the spring on throttles to actuate them, singular adjustments are
> difficult.
> I did a cross linkage that flexes and attaches to the throttle shaft, is
> adjustable
> but holds the alignment of throttle plates very exactly and requires only
> one
> throttle arm of the two Bings to be connected to your panel throttle cable.
> My site below has pictures on the control linkages and subaru engine pages
> if it's even applicable to your birds.
>
> Bings phone number is 1-800-309-2464 and you should probably get the
> Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning and Parts Manual for $8.00 if you don't
> have one as well.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Subject: Stratus-List: balancing the carbs
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys.
> >
> > I have just discovered this list and finished reading the archives which
> > have
> > been a great info source. Myself and a friend have two identical
> > wood/fabric
> > float planes powered by a stratus EA81 in the Vancouver area. >
> > To reduce vibrations people have suggested the following.
> (1) balance the carbs
> > (2) ensure correct belt tension and tracking and (3) get a prop balance.
> > When
> > balancing the carbs how have people achieved this? When my friends tried
> > to
> > balance theirs they removed the crossover tube and pluged in the vacuum
> > but a
> > got wildly fluctuating bouncing up and down between two values. Any
> > ideas appreciated.
> >
> > Regards
> > BRETT RUEFF
> > Vancouver
> > rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: balancing the carbs |
Howdy Larry,
I have just finished browsing your website and have a couple of questions. Great
website too by the way.
Firstly with the carbs. When we are bloking the crossover tube and measuring
the vacuum but we can't get an accurate reading because the gauge bounces
eratically. We are assuming this is because the firing order fires the two
pistions on one side, then the two on the other. If this is the case then I
guess you have all suction, then nothing, all suction etc. Do you get this
wild reading? Mine seemed to fluctuate between 4-5 when no suction was
occuring and 13-15 when the suction was occuring. And does the twin max give
stable readings?
The second question is regarding the linkages for the throttle cable to the
carbs. I see you have a great looking fitting with a 90 degree bend that looks
nice and solid. Where did these come from....I have a bad setup with the
throttle cable just shoved into the fitting sleve on the carby which means it
isn't secured very well - I like your fitting.
Brett
Quoting Larry McFarland :
>
> Brett,
> I've done as you've described with mostly good results, but a piece of
> equipment you guys could share is a "Twinmax" for balancing carbs from Bing.
> They're $70 or so, but you remove the screw at the protruding stem
> next to the idle screw and hook up a plastic tube to each carb. Block off
> the crossover hose with a plug and short hose stubs. You get a very precise
> reading from the Twinmax that you can adjust to while running.
>
> The other thing is your linkage carb to carb. If you're using two cables
> and the spring on throttles to actuate them, singular adjustments are
> difficult.
> I did a cross linkage that flexes and attaches to the throttle shaft, is
> adjustable
> but holds the alignment of throttle plates very exactly and requires only
> one
> throttle arm of the two Bings to be connected to your panel throttle cable.
> My site below has pictures on the control linkages and subaru engine pages
> if it's even applicable to your birds.
>
> Bings phone number is 1-800-309-2464 and you should probably get the
> Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning and Parts Manual for $8.00 if you don't
> have one as well.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Subject: Stratus-List: balancing the carbs
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys.
> >
> > I have just discovered this list and finished reading the archives which
> > have
> > been a great info source. Myself and a friend have two identical
> > wood/fabric
> > float planes powered by a stratus EA81 in the Vancouver area. >
> > To reduce vibrations people have suggested the following.
> (1) balance the carbs
> > (2) ensure correct belt tension and tracking and (3) get a prop balance.
> > When
> > balancing the carbs how have people achieved this? When my friends tried
> > to
> > balance theirs they removed the crossover tube and pluged in the vacuum
> > but a
> > got wildly fluctuating bouncing up and down between two values. Any
> > ideas appreciated.
> >
> > Regards
> > BRETT RUEFF
> > Vancouver
> > rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot Network
http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | balancing the carbs |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
Brett,
Vacuum gauges usually come with a restrictor fitting, restrictor valve,
or have one built into the gauge to dampen out the vacuum pulses that
are in all intake manifolds. You can use most any type of adjustable
clamp to pinch the hose going to the gauges. Adjust it until it pinches
off and holds pressure, then just back off a bit. It will then slowly
move from one reading to another as the throttle is changed.
Hope this helps,
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: balancing the carbs
Howdy Larry,
I have just finished browsing your website and have a couple of
questions. Great website too by the way.
Firstly with the carbs. When we are bloking the crossover tube and
measuring the vacuum but we can't get an accurate reading because the
gauge bounces eratically. We are assuming this is because the firing
order fires the two pistions on one side, then the two on the other. If
this is the case then I guess you have all suction, then nothing, all
suction etc. Do you get this wild reading? Mine seemed to fluctuate
between 4-5 when no suction was occuring and 13-15 when the suction was
occuring. And does the twin max give stable readings?
The second question is regarding the linkages for the throttle cable to
the carbs. I see you have a great looking fitting with a 90 degree bend
that looks nice and solid. Where did these come from....I have a bad
setup with the throttle cable just shoved into the fitting sleve on the
carby which means it isn't secured very well - I like your fitting.
Brett
Quoting Larry McFarland :
> -->
>
> Brett,
> I've done as you've described with mostly good results, but a piece of
> equipment you guys could share is a "Twinmax" for balancing carbs from
Bing.
> They're $70 or so, but you remove the screw at the protruding stem
> next to the idle screw and hook up a plastic tube to each carb. Block
> off the crossover hose with a plug and short hose stubs. You get a
> very precise reading from the Twinmax that you can adjust to while
running.
>
> The other thing is your linkage carb to carb. If you're using two
> cables and the spring on throttles to actuate them, singular
> adjustments are difficult.
> I did a cross linkage that flexes and attaches to the throttle shaft,
> is adjustable but holds the alignment of throttle plates very exactly
> and requires only one throttle arm of the two Bings to be connected to
> your panel throttle cable.
> My site below has pictures on the control linkages and subaru engine
> pages if it's even applicable to your birds.
>
> Bings phone number is 1-800-309-2464 and you should probably get the
> Bing Carburettors Aircraft Tuning and Parts Manual for $8.00 if you
> don't have one as well.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601hds @ www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Subject: Stratus-List: balancing the carbs
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys.
> >
> > I have just discovered this list and finished reading the archives
> > which have been a great info source. Myself and a friend have two
> > identical wood/fabric float planes powered by a stratus EA81 in the
> > Vancouver area. > To reduce vibrations people have suggested the
> > following.
> (1) balance the carbs
> > (2) ensure correct belt tension and tracking and (3) get a prop
balance.
> > When
> > balancing the carbs how have people achieved this? When my friends
> > tried to balance theirs they removed the crossover tube and pluged
> > in the vacuum but a
> > got wildly fluctuating bouncing up and down between two values.
Any
> > ideas appreciated.
> >
> > Regards
> > BRETT RUEFF
> > Vancouver
> > rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot
Network http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system
to the webmaster of this website at the following address:
webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | cracked alternator bracket |
Hi everyone, quick question for you all. When your alternator bracket cracked
and you got a new heavier duty one, did you have to pay for it? While I
realise the engine doesn't really have a "warranty" as such I would have
thought if a design fault means most alternator plates crack they would be
replaced free of charge. Apparently not, so I just wanted to find out what
other people experiences were before I push the point with Mkyal.
Cheerio
Brett
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cracked alternator bracket |
Subject: Stratus-List: cracked alternator bracket
I just wanted to find out what
other people experiences were before I push the point with Mkyal.
>
> Cheerio
Brett,
Mykal is one of the good guys, so ask him what he'd like to do
in replacing the bracket. If it's not been too long, I'd think he'd
probably like to replace it, but give him the opportunity to decide.
It's not an expensive piece anyway.
He recently replaced my RH upper engine mount as it had cracked
at 40+ hours and I was pleased to recieve it without cost.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | fuel pumps and the POH |
Hi guys,
I'm working thru the POH, filling out detail and rewording
some of the boilerplate on the page for starting the engine.
The part that says the pumps should not be turned on just
prior to ignition puzzles me because I always turn on the
pumps, wait for 10 seconds and then fire up ignition.
Is there a proper answer for this procedure and am I doing
something wrong at startup by not having a pump on?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel pumps and the POH |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Only in that it won't start (or prime, if you use a primer solenoid like
mine) before you turn the pumps on. So yes the pumps need to be run,
make pressure, prime and then start.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
McFarland
Subject: Stratus-List: fuel pumps and the POH
-->
Hi guys,
I'm working thru the POH, filling out detail and rewording some of the
boilerplate on the page for starting the engine.
The part that says the pumps should not be turned on just prior to
ignition puzzles me because I always turn on the pumps, wait for 10
seconds and then fire up ignition.
Is there a proper answer for this procedure and am I doing something
wrong at startup by not having a pump on?
Larry McFarland - 601HDS Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus Water Pump |
Hi Gang,
It's been to quite on the list lately so apparently my Stratus thought we
needed some discussion.
Just the other day I flew my HD for the first time in a month and a half
(winters up north tend to make one do that). Anyway about 15 minutes into my
flight I caught a distinctive smell of coolant .... rats never smelled that
before. I was hoping to land and find a loose rad hose but no such luck. The
lower firewall on my 601 was wet with coolant but no leaks were found. I'm
thinking it's my water pump as everything below it seems to be getting wet.
Could this be just a bad gasket, or seal? Or must we caulk up one more
"watch out" item to our got-cha list. If the water pump needs replacing is
it as simple as ripping off the old and bolting on the new, or is there more
to it than that?
Thanks for any advice.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD (114 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus Water Pump |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
It probaly IS the water pump....get down below the engine with the cowl
off...the weep hole will be on the underside of the pump in the alu
shaft housing between the pump istelf and the steel pulley...The hole is
where the coolant comes out.
Now there are two types of pump and rumour has it that the type with the
pressed steel rotor will cavitate which causes overheating and eventual
destruction of the pump rotor. Apparently this is supposed to happen
above 5000rpm...Mine climbs out at 4900 RPM and is just fine with the
pressed steel rotor...Having a good pressure cap is a must!
So pull your pump off...very simple, and you will probably have the Cast
iron rotor which is a lower pumping capacity..See if your local
autoparts place has this type...take it with you!
If you go to Autozone they offer a lifetime guarantee as long as its not
for off road use....well we are above roads most of the time...:)
Good luck
Frank
Hi Gang,
It's been to quite on the list lately so apparently my Stratus thought
we needed some discussion.
Just the other day I flew my HD for the first time in a month and a half
(winters up north tend to make one do that). Anyway about 15 minutes
into my flight I caught a distinctive smell of coolant .... rats never
smelled that before. I was hoping to land and find a loose rad hose but
no such luck. The lower firewall on my 601 was wet with coolant but no
leaks were found. I'm thinking it's my water pump as everything below it
seems to be getting wet.
Could this be just a bad gasket, or seal? Or must we caulk up one more
"watch out" item to our got-cha list. If the water pump needs replacing
is it as simple as ripping off the old and bolting on the new, or is
there more to it than that?
Thanks for any advice.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD (114 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Water Pump |
Kelly,
I have not had any trouble with my water pump leaking. There are a few of us with
a good amount of hours on the Stratus now and I have not heard of any problems
with the pump so I don't think it is an expected failure like the engine mount,
alternator mount, valve guides, etc., were.
As Frank said, look at the weep hole at the bottom. That's where the fluid will
come out if the seal is failing.
Should be an easy replacement if it is the pump.
Regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Water Pump |
>
> As Frank said, look at the weep hole at the bottom. That's where the fluid
> will come out if the seal is failing.
>
> Should be an easy replacement if it is the pump.
>
> Regards,
> Bill
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Bill,
I used a mirror & checked the weep hole that Frank suggested me to look at.
Sure enough I can see were fluid had been running out of this hole by a dark
colored line from the hole & down the side of the casting.
What is the purpose of this "weep hole" anyway? Is it just an indicator to
let you know the pump seal has failed? How about if I just shove my chewing
gum into the hole & go fly?
Sorry I couldn't help think that (I'm an X ultralight pilot).
Also why would these pumps fail after only 100 hours in a plane, & yet in
cars they'll go for 100,000 miles, is it because we run them at higher
RPM's?
Thanks Frank & Bill for your the input,
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Water Pump |
The weep hole is there to keep the coolant from contaminating the bearings
after the seal fails and leaks. Do not plug it, as then the coolant will
fail the bearing. REPLACE the pump.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus Water Pump
>
> >
> > As Frank said, look at the weep hole at the bottom. That's where the
fluid
> > will come out if the seal is failing.
> >
> > Should be an easy replacement if it is the pump.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bill
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Hi Bill,
> I used a mirror & checked the weep hole that Frank suggested me to look
at.
> Sure enough I can see were fluid had been running out of this hole by a
dark
> colored line from the hole & down the side of the casting.
>
> What is the purpose of this "weep hole" anyway? Is it just an indicator to
> let you know the pump seal has failed? How about if I just shove my
chewing
> gum into the hole & go fly?
> Sorry I couldn't help think that (I'm an X ultralight pilot).
>
> Also why would these pumps fail after only 100 hours in a plane, & yet in
> cars they'll go for 100,000 miles, is it because we run them at higher
> RPM's?
> Thanks Frank & Bill for your the input,
>
> Kelly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Water Pump |
Kelly,
I'm not sure why yours failed at only 100 hours. I have not heard of any Stratus
water pump failures to date. I would not think that is s the high rpm since
I have 386 hours and have not had a problem to date.
Bill
Bill Morelli
billvt(at)together.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Pitch Optimums? |
Hi guys,
Has anyone continued to use a 17" or longer pitch on a Stratus
with a 70" warp drive? I've been using 16" and it accelerates
about twice the rate of the Cessna I used to fly. I'm interested
in knowing if the coming summer and humidity is going to push
me back into a 16" pitch.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Pitch Optimums? |
Has anyone continued to use a 17" or longer pitch on a Stratus with a 70"
warp drive?
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Larry,
I'll have do look back thru my records of saved info about prop setting for
our engines (from past postings), but if I recall correctly I've seen at
least two Stratus 601 pilots who have gone as far as 17 pitch, but
eventually both backed off to somewhere around 15 pitch.
I'll do some digging to see if I can verify that for you.
Kelly (16 pitch)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
Howdy List,
Remember last week I asked about my water pump failing after only 100 hours on
the clock. Well I started wondering if my newly added Dex-Cool (red colored) coolant
had anything to do with my pump failing. I have been running the green
Prestone coolant for the first 100 hours, then I drained and flushed my coolant
system and changed over to the red colored Dex-Cool, and only a month or two
later (about 10 hours) my pump failed????
Thinking that was odd I contacted Mykal and asked him if Dex-Cool would cause problems
with our EA-81 engines (water pumps). He simply said "he didn't think
so".
But now I'm not so sure ...... I just came across this today.
http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html
It's a class action lawsuit against Dex-cool. Here's the jest of it.
Girard Gibbs & De Bartolomeo is investigating claims in connection with a proposed
class action against General Motors Corporation and Chevron/Texaco Corporation
concerning DEX-COOL.
Customers complain that DEX-COOL forms a sludge-like substance that clogs their
vehicles' cooling systems causing them to overheat, and that DEX-COOL corrodes
all parts of the engine it comes in contact with including the heater core,
water pump, hoses, cap, upper and lower intake manifold, thermostat, and engine
block.
Any one else out there running this stuff in your engine, & if so have you noticed
any problems?
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
I have to say that is Mykal's answer to a few questions both from my experience
and those of the people on this board. "I dont think so" or "it should be ok"
seem to be his most oft used phrases. Not 100% confidence inspring for me
anyway.
Cheers
Brett
Quoting Kelly Meiste :
>
> Howdy List,
> Remember last week I asked about my water pump failing after only 100 hours
> on the clock. Well I started wondering if my newly added Dex-Cool (red
> colored) coolant had anything to do with my pump failing. I have been running
> the green Prestone coolant for the first 100 hours, then I drained and
> flushed my coolant system and changed over to the red colored Dex-Cool, and
> only a month or two later (about 10 hours) my pump failed????
>
> Thinking that was odd I contacted Mykal and asked him if Dex-Cool would cause
> problems with our EA-81 engines (water pumps). He simply said "he didn't
> think so".
> But now I'm not so sure ...... I just came across this today.
>
> http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html
>
> It's a class action lawsuit against Dex-cool. Here's the jest of it.
>
> Girard Gibbs & De Bartolomeo is investigating claims in connection with a
> proposed class action against General Motors Corporation and Chevron/Texaco
> Corporation concerning DEX-COOL.
>
>
> Customers complain that DEX-COOL forms a sludge-like substance that clogs
> their vehicles' cooling systems causing them to overheat, and that DEX-COOL
> corrodes all parts of the engine it comes in contact with including the
> heater core, water pump, hoses, cap, upper and lower intake manifold,
> thermostat, and engine block.
>
> Any one else out there running this stuff in your engine, & if so have you
> noticed any problems?
>
> Kelly
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | pictures of cracked alternator bracket |
Hi guys.
I am replacing my cracked alternator bracket on the stratus EA81. I whipped up
a quick website to show you all the pics and it has some questions there as
well. Hope you can help.
http://www3.telus.net/public/rueffy/
Cheerio
Brett
Vancouver
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | pictures of cracked alternator bracket |
Bret,
The original alternator brackets were made from a thinner material than later ones.
I don't recall how thin the material was on the originals but the current
brackets are made from .185" thick material. I would first check to see if you
had the .185" bracket.
I purchased my engine in 1998 and the alternator bracket was painted blue. Did
yours come unpainted as shown in your photos.
To answer some of your questions.
- The small hose you mention and it's location are normal. I zip tied a piece of
tygon tubing on that hose to prevent chafing where it rubs against the alt mounting
bolt.
- The three leveling washers sound normal also. Mine came from Stratus that way.
- I have not seen any oil seepage from around the bolt you describe.
I had replaced my original thin alternator bracket re welded before Stratus had
sent me the newer .185" version. The re welded bracket cracked again!! After
installing the new thick bracket at 168 hours, I have not had any problems and
now have 389 hours. I have not heard of any problems with the thick bracket.
You can check out my web site (address below) to see the write up and photos I
posted back when my bracket failed.
Hope this helps
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 389.4 flight
hrs. - 519 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>Hi guys.
> I am replacing my cracked alternator bracket on the stratus EA81. I whipped
up
> a quick website to show you all the pics and it has some questions there
as
> well. Hope you can help.
>
> http://www3.telus.net/public/rueffy/
>
> Cheerio
> Brett
> Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | pictures of cracked alternator bracket |
Hi Bill,
Just back from my trip and I am not sure if I responded to your email - but
thanks for the info. Much appreciated
Brett
Quoting Bill Morelli :
>
> Bret,
>
> The original alternator brackets were made from a thinner material than later
> ones. I don't recall how thin the material was on the originals but the
> current brackets are made from .185" thick material. I would first check to
> see if you had the .185" bracket.
>
> I purchased my engine in 1998 and the alternator bracket was painted blue.
> Did yours come unpainted as shown in your photos.
>
> To answer some of your questions.
>
> - The small hose you mention and it's location are normal. I zip tied a piece
> of tygon tubing on that hose to prevent chafing where it rubs against the alt
> mounting bolt.
>
> - The three leveling washers sound normal also. Mine came from Stratus that
> way.
>
> - I have not seen any oil seepage from around the bolt you describe.
>
> I had replaced my original thin alternator bracket re welded before Stratus
> had sent me the newer .185" version. The re welded bracket cracked again!!
> After installing the new thick bracket at 168 hours, I have not had any
> problems and now have 389 hours. I have not heard of any problems with the
> thick bracket.
>
> You can check out my web site (address below) to see the write up and photos
> I posted back when my bracket failed.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 389.4
> flight hrs. - 519 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>
>
> >Hi guys.
>
> > I am replacing my cracked alternator bracket on the stratus EA81. I
> whipped up
> > a quick website to show you all the pics and it has some questions
> there as
> > well. Hope you can help.
> >
> > http://www3.telus.net/public/rueffy/
> >
> > Cheerio
> > Brett
> > Vancouver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | stories and questions. |
Hi Stratus Goers.
Well - after 3 months of odds and ends work on the plane without flying it over
the winter I finally made the final (what I thought were final) repairs and
went flying this arvo. Was great to be back in the air again. I bought the
two place float plane with a stratus EA81 a year ago and have been putting a
lot of work in for not much flying....time to start reaping the rewards now.
For those interested here is what I have done:
1. Replaced PRSU cog belt
2. Replaced cracked (maybe smashed is a better word) alternator bracket.
3. Re-routed that breather hose that ran under the alternator and was beign
destroyed.
4. Replaced two heater hoses and replaced fluid.
5. Compression test and other engine tests
6. Installed new battery
7. Rewired Aileron control system to remove some control cable rub.
8. Installed turnbuckles in all aileron and rudder systems (boy are those
turnbuckles expensive!)
9. Repaired a leaky float
10. Repaired a broken Airspeed indicator (neat to look inside)
11. bought a new radio
12. Installed drain grommets (still more to go however)
13. Repaired a mount for elevator push pull tube
14. Few other bits and peices that slip my mind now.
Anyway the test flight went well and all was normal. Oil and Water were very
tight - no leaks visible at all. I had a some fluctation on the fuel pressure
but I knew the number one fuel pump is on its last legs. I shall replace it
before the next flight and replace the filters while I am at it.
After the flight I noticed a little weaping from the PRSU behind the flywheel.
Not much, just a small area and the fuild had the slighest of green shades to
it. Is that what people are refering to when they say the main PRSU bearing is
weeping a little? The engine only has about 50 hours before I am supposed to
re-grease the bearings as per the 300 hour stratus schedule.
Cheerio
brett
Vancouver, Canada
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
Brett,
If you've got a weeping oil situation behind the flywheel, the large
seal may need replacing it which is a National
#415021 and regreasing its contact surfaces with white lithium grease.
If you begin finding a film of oil in the end of the lower pully and
crank shaft end, you'll need to get after it agressively because I found
it can really increase output in a hurry.
Mykal doesn't use a seal, but an o-ring that's sort of placed there. I
removed it and cleaned the material behind it to dry metal and then used
heavy RTV before replacing the o-ring and then buried it again in RTV
sealant. Very dry now much later.
I was emailed a 3-page instruction sheet on replacing the redrive
bearings and front and rear engine seals by one of the posters in this
group and I'd be willing to copy-forward these zip files if they'd be
of help to you. Lots of pictures too.
Larry McFarland
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>
> Is that what people are refering to when they say the main PRSU bearing is
>weeping a little?
>
>Cheerio
>brett
>Vancouver, Canada
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stories and questions. |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Have the heads had the stepped valve guides installed by Ram
Performance?...Stratus motors have had a number of valve guide failures
which can easily trash your engine completely...Or worse.
If you have not had this done I would say this is the best $600 you
could spend on that airplane.
Ram Performance is the only company I would trust with this work. Once
they have done it it will be pretty much bullet proof.
Do you have two ignition systems fitted to the engine? When one of them
dies a much better system is to use the Subaru puckup coil to drive a
$25 GM ignitor chip...I have two ignitions built into the same
distributor...Much better than the $300 you will pay for the original
style ignitor chip...:)
As to the bearing, the seal wears a groove in the anodised spacer and it
ends up leaking...I changed the seal and moved it outboard a little to
wear a new groove....Works great so far.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
Subject: Stratus-List: stories and questions.
Hi Stratus Goers.
Well - after 3 months of odds and ends work on the plane without flying
it over the winter I finally made the final (what I thought were final)
repairs and went flying this arvo. Was great to be back in the air
again. I bought the two place float plane with a stratus EA81 a year
ago and have been putting a lot of work in for not much flying....time
to start reaping the rewards now.
For those interested here is what I have done:
1. Replaced PRSU cog belt
2. Replaced cracked (maybe smashed is a better word) alternator bracket.
3. Re-routed that breather hose that ran under the alternator and was
beign destroyed.
4. Replaced two heater hoses and replaced fluid.
5. Compression test and other engine tests 6. Installed new battery 7.
Rewired Aileron control system to remove some control cable rub.
8. Installed turnbuckles in all aileron and rudder systems (boy are
those turnbuckles expensive!) 9. Repaired a leaky float 10. Repaired a
broken Airspeed indicator (neat to look inside) 11. bought a new radio
12. Installed drain grommets (still more to go however) 13. Repaired a
mount for elevator push pull tube 14. Few other bits and peices that
slip my mind now.
Anyway the test flight went well and all was normal. Oil and Water were
very tight - no leaks visible at all. I had a some fluctation on the
fuel pressure but I knew the number one fuel pump is on its last legs.
I shall replace it before the next flight and replace the filters while
I am at it.
After the flight I noticed a little weaping from the PRSU behind the
flywheel.
Not much, just a small area and the fuild had the slighest of green
shades to it. Is that what people are refering to when they say the
main PRSU bearing is weeping a little? The engine only has about 50
hours before I am supposed to re-grease the bearings as per the 300 hour
stratus schedule.
Cheerio
brett
Vancouver, Canada
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Network http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | stories and questions. |
Thanks Frank,
The heads were re-done by the original owner. I know of 3 stratus engines in
this area - all had self distructing heads, one did it after only 4 hours. It
wasnt RAM that was used, but the heads were definately redone.
It does have two ignitions as well. Standard stratus one and a nipondenso one.
I kind of think this is a bit of a gimick though - you have two ignitions but
only one key switch, one set of leads, one distributor.
Where did you get the new seal from?
Thanks for your comments.
Brett
Quoting "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" :
>
>
> Have the heads had the stepped valve guides installed by Ram
> Performance?...Stratus motors have had a number of valve guide failures
> which can easily trash your engine completely...Or worse.
>
> If you have not had this done I would say this is the best $600 you
> could spend on that airplane.
>
> Ram Performance is the only company I would trust with this work. Once
> they have done it it will be pretty much bullet proof.
>
> Do you have two ignition systems fitted to the engine? When one of them
> dies a much better system is to use the Subaru puckup coil to drive a
> $25 GM ignitor chip...I have two ignitions built into the same
> distributor...Much better than the $300 you will pay for the original
> style ignitor chip...:)
>
> As to the bearing, the seal wears a groove in the anodised spacer and it
> ends up leaking...I changed the seal and moved it outboard a little to
> wear a new groove....Works great so far.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Stratus-List: stories and questions.
>
>
> Hi Stratus Goers.
>
> Well - after 3 months of odds and ends work on the plane without flying
> it over the winter I finally made the final (what I thought were final)
> repairs and went flying this arvo. Was great to be back in the air
> again. I bought the two place float plane with a stratus EA81 a year
> ago and have been putting a lot of work in for not much flying....time
> to start reaping the rewards now.
> For those interested here is what I have done:
>
> 1. Replaced PRSU cog belt
> 2. Replaced cracked (maybe smashed is a better word) alternator bracket.
> 3. Re-routed that breather hose that ran under the alternator and was
> beign destroyed.
> 4. Replaced two heater hoses and replaced fluid.
> 5. Compression test and other engine tests 6. Installed new battery 7.
> Rewired Aileron control system to remove some control cable rub.
> 8. Installed turnbuckles in all aileron and rudder systems (boy are
> those turnbuckles expensive!) 9. Repaired a leaky float 10. Repaired a
> broken Airspeed indicator (neat to look inside) 11. bought a new radio
> 12. Installed drain grommets (still more to go however) 13. Repaired a
> mount for elevator push pull tube 14. Few other bits and peices that
> slip my mind now.
>
> Anyway the test flight went well and all was normal. Oil and Water were
> very tight - no leaks visible at all. I had a some fluctation on the
> fuel pressure but I knew the number one fuel pump is on its last legs.
> I shall replace it before the next flight and replace the filters while
> I am at it.
>
> After the flight I noticed a little weaping from the PRSU behind the
> flywheel.
> Not much, just a small area and the fuild had the slighest of green
> shades to it. Is that what people are refering to when they say the
> main PRSU bearing is weeping a little? The engine only has about 50
> hours before I am supposed to re-grease the bearings as per the 300 hour
> stratus schedule.
>
> Cheerio
> brett
> Vancouver, Canada
>
>
> Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot
> Network http://www.jetthrust.com
>
>
> Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system
> to the webmaster of this website at the following address:
> webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stories and questions. |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Seal you can get from Stratus but it is a common seal...I think I still
have the box in the hangar so you could probably get it from just about
any bearing supplier. Just have to wait till I go down the hangar to get
the number...they are about 25 bucks.
You say the heads were "re done". What exactly does that
mean?....Subarus use parallel valve guides that the rebuilders choose to
press in at room temperature. They have no step on the outside and if
they work loose they slip into the combustion chamber till they hit the
tapered part of the valve where chunks get broken off...Hence the self
destruct.
This fitting method is crap!
Valve guides should be made 2 thou oversize and the head heated and the
guide frozen before they are put together. They should also have a step
on the outside (Stratus now use a circlip and that fails too!). As the
guides do not have a step this shrink fit method is crucial to get
right...Of course its only been done this way for the last 100 years so
why the soob rebuilders think they can get away with room temperature
fit is beyond me.
But anyway, it is important to know what the previous owner did because
if he simply replicated what was there in the first place that is not
good enough IMO.
Ram Performance is the only company as far as I know that will make a
new set of guides with steps on the outside and shrink fit them
properly. I would strongly advise you to get what procedure he used. At
the minimum this needs to be a shrunk fit guide, no loctite and
definatly no knurling of the outside of the guide to bring it up to
size.
I've had three failures and have become an expert on this issue...Sadly!
Your ignition set up is not adequate. You have many single points of
failure there. I have 2 batteries (isolated with a diode) and a separate
switch for each ignition system....There is no point on the low tension
side of the the ignitions systems that join together at any point. This
second battery (3AH only weighs 2 pounds) system also runs the second
fuel pump....I can have an alternator/battery fire/short out and can
continue to run the engine for an hour or so.
If your igniton switch burns out down you go!
The distributor is a single point of failre but they rarely fail...The
low tension wiring is a different matter though.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: stories and questions.
Thanks Frank,
The heads were re-done by the original owner. I know of 3 stratus
engines in this area - all had self distructing heads, one did it after
only 4 hours. It wasnt RAM that was used, but the heads were definately
redone.
It does have two ignitions as well. Standard stratus one and a
nipondenso one.
I kind of think this is a bit of a gimick though - you have two
ignitions but only one key switch, one set of leads, one distributor.
Where did you get the new seal from?
Thanks for your comments.
Brett
Quoting "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" :
>
>
> Have the heads had the stepped valve guides installed by Ram
> Performance?...Stratus motors have had a number of valve guide
> failures which can easily trash your engine completely...Or worse.
>
> If you have not had this done I would say this is the best $600 you
> could spend on that airplane.
>
> Ram Performance is the only company I would trust with this work. Once
> they have done it it will be pretty much bullet proof.
>
> Do you have two ignition systems fitted to the engine? When one of
> them dies a much better system is to use the Subaru puckup coil to
> drive a
> $25 GM ignitor chip...I have two ignitions built into the same
> distributor...Much better than the $300 you will pay for the original
> style ignitor chip...:)
>
> As to the bearing, the seal wears a groove in the anodised spacer and
> it ends up leaking...I changed the seal and moved it outboard a little
> to wear a new groove....Works great so far.
>
> Frank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Stratus-List: stories and questions.
>
>
> Hi Stratus Goers.
>
> Well - after 3 months of odds and ends work on the plane without
> flying it over the winter I finally made the final (what I thought
> were final) repairs and went flying this arvo. Was great to be back
> in the air again. I bought the two place float plane with a stratus
> EA81 a year ago and have been putting a lot of work in for not much
> flying....time to start reaping the rewards now.
> For those interested here is what I have done:
>
> 1. Replaced PRSU cog belt
> 2. Replaced cracked (maybe smashed is a better word) alternator
bracket.
> 3. Re-routed that breather hose that ran under the alternator and was
> beign destroyed.
> 4. Replaced two heater hoses and replaced fluid.
> 5. Compression test and other engine tests 6. Installed new battery 7.
> Rewired Aileron control system to remove some control cable rub.
> 8. Installed turnbuckles in all aileron and rudder systems (boy are
> those turnbuckles expensive!) 9. Repaired a leaky float 10. Repaired a
> broken Airspeed indicator (neat to look inside) 11. bought a new radio
> 12. Installed drain grommets (still more to go however) 13. Repaired a
> mount for elevator push pull tube 14. Few other bits and peices that
> slip my mind now.
>
> Anyway the test flight went well and all was normal. Oil and Water
> were very tight - no leaks visible at all. I had a some fluctation on
> the fuel pressure but I knew the number one fuel pump is on its last
legs.
> I shall replace it before the next flight and replace the filters
> while I am at it.
>
> After the flight I noticed a little weaping from the PRSU behind the
> flywheel.
> Not much, just a small area and the fuild had the slighest of green
> shades to it. Is that what people are refering to when they say the
> main PRSU bearing is weeping a little? The engine only has about 50
> hours before I am supposed to re-grease the bearings as per the 300
> hour stratus schedule.
>
> Cheerio
> brett
> Vancouver, Canada
>
>
> Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit Jet Thrust.com- The
> Pilot Network http://www.jetthrust.com
>
>
> Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail
> system to the webmaster of this website at the following address:
> webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot
Network http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system
to the webmaster of this website at the following address:
webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
> It does have two ignitions as well. Standard stratus one and a nipondenso
> one.
> I kind of think this is a bit of a gimick though - you have two ignitions
> but
> only one key switch, one set of leads, one distributor.
the dual ignitions have saved a few people anyway, seems to be the coils and
modules that go. to take full advantage though, I think it's best to have
separate switches and a small backup battery. make as much redundant as
possible. then just do good maintenance on the distr, wires and plugs.
what's the empty/gross on your plane and how does it perform on floats? i'd
like to get floats someday and i'm not sure the stratus will have enough
juice.
gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
I think the gross is about 1300lbs (haven't weight it myself - going off old
info that I am not totally confident in). Its on Murphy home built 1500 floats
and the stratus blasts off the water no worries. We did some rough
calculations, and the power to weight is at the high end for float planes
considering I very rarely take off at gross. For a light plane like mine it is
more than adequate. In fact 100hp is about the limit for the airframe in my
opinion.
Thanks to Frank and Larry, your points are duly noted.
Picture of the plane is attached,
Brett
Quoting gary :
>
> > It does have two ignitions as well. Standard stratus one and a nipondenso
>
> > one.
> > I kind of think this is a bit of a gimick though - you have two ignitions
> > but
> > only one key switch, one set of leads, one distributor.
> the dual ignitions have saved a few people anyway, seems to be the coils and
>
> modules that go. to take full advantage though, I think it's best to have
> separate switches and a small backup battery. make as much redundant as
> possible. then just do good maintenance on the distr, wires and plugs.
>
> what's the empty/gross on your plane and how does it perform on floats? i'd
>
> like to get floats someday and i'm not sure the stratus will have enough
> juice.
>
> gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
I have those seals in stock $12
Ron
RAM Performance
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Repost from AirSoob |
The following was posted on Airsoob a couple of days ago. I wanted to repost it
here for all our interest since many of us are running the EA81. I haven't
heard of this happening before - has anybody else?
What do you think of the fix?
Brett
Last week I had the oil seal, on the water pump end of the engine,
of my EA81 slip inside of the engine. It took about 3 or 4 minutes
to lose all the oil. Luckily I was on floats and was able to make
it back on the water just as the oil pressure dropped to zero. This
seal is a press fit in the crankcase, there is no lip on the
inside of the case to keep this from happening. I know of one other
EA 81 that had this same thing happen. Anyone else had this
problem? Is there a fix? I installed the new seal with Permatex
high strength sleeve retainer. Any ideas or help would be
appreciated.
Dale
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Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
stratus-list
| Subject: | Purolator Fuel Filter Warning |
Hi guys,
Very recently, I referred to a search for a Purolator "See Through" Fuel
Filter in a posting.
This filter was eventually located and found to be a *Purolator Pro-Fuel
Filter*. In the Google perusal
of articles on this filter, I found that *there is a recall of this
filter series* because the
polylmer used for the housing in the suspect fuel filters may not be
compatible with ethanol
and other chemicals sometimes found in fuel systems. If the housing
leaks, you could have
a fire. In another listed instance, an aircraft builder's filter leaked
and it was on negative pressure, sucked air
and his engine quit on takeoff due to fuel starvation. Subsequent
replacement of this item was found to
be difficult as the replacement product was re-marked as Made in USA and
it was obviously made in Taiwan.
The latter didn't even exhibit the necessary quality found on the failed
original filter made in the US.
So much for the Purolator Company and their filters. I didn't want to
have misled anyone into using this
filter on their plane just because the basic concept embodied what I'd
like to have found in one..........
Pleased to have found this, but immensely disappointed that the trend of
once good products are
disappearing and being re-mfg as similiar, but inferior items from
offshore that could get you killed.
Please be aware and *do not use the Purolator Part Numbers 804, 805, 806
and NAPA
624804, 624805 and 624806 part numbers*.
Now I've got to find something else with a see-thru stainless filter
that works. Arrrgh!
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
Hey Soobers. Im scrating my head and not coming up with much (which is not
unusual for me). I have a 72" 3 blade warp drive on the EA81. When I take the
end of the prop blade, and wiggle gently from side to side I can get a tiny bit
of play (were are talking very very small barely noticable amount at the hub
somewhere) It has been bugging me for ages exactly where the play was. I
thought it was in a particular blade but then I tried something - if I place
one hand behind the prop hub and pull so the hub is firmly supported and then
wiggle - there is no play. So now I am thinking it might be a tiny bit play
somewhere else that is transfering though the hub and blade. Would it be
possible that the tiny movement I am feeling is coming from in the PRSU where
the prop shaft fits in its sleeve? I haven't had this PRSU apart yet so I am
not sure of the exact deisgn and tolerances. That would make more sense
because I have inspected the prop very carefully and cant find signs of wear.
The engine is coming up to 300 hours soon and is due for the bearing re-grease.
I emailed Warp Drive and asked and they said no movement is allowed (between
blade and hub).
Ideas?
Brett
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
Brett,
I believe Warp Drive means no movement between the composite and the
clamping hub, but the take-up
you feel at the redrive shaft could be nothing more than bearings
setting cool within the housing. I'd bet you
would find that when they are warm, and you know they do get "warm", the
tolerences change as they cool, or
perhaps the redrive housing has broken in a bit. I'd get a dial
indicator on the hub and measure the exactitude
of the play you find both diametral and axial. If you do that, I'll do
the same and we might learn what or how
much "play" is normal.
Question though. How do you like the 72" on the Stratus? I'm using a
70" and would think you'd be getting a
really good climb or cruise with yours.
Larry McFarland
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>
>Hey Soobers. Im scrating my head and not coming up with much (which is not
>unusual for me). I have a 72" 3 blade warp drive on the EA81. When I take the
>end of the prop blade, and wiggle gently from side to side I can get a tiny bit
>of play (were are talking very very small barely noticable amount at the hub
>somewhere) It has been bugging me for ages exactly where the play was. I
>thought it was in a particular blade but then I tried something - if I place
>one hand behind the prop hub and pull so the hub is firmly supported and then
>wiggle - there is no play. So now I am thinking it might be a tiny bit play
>somewhere else that is transfering though the hub and blade. Would it be
>possible that the tiny movement I am feeling is coming from in the PRSU where
>the prop shaft fits in its sleeve? I haven't had this PRSU apart yet so I am
>not sure of the exact deisgn and tolerances. That would make more sense
>because I have inspected the prop very carefully and cant find signs of wear.
>The engine is coming up to 300 hours soon and is due for the bearing re-grease.
>
>
>I emailed Warp Drive and asked and they said no movement is allowed (between
>blade and hub).
>
>Ideas?
>Brett
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
Thanks Larry,
I will do that but I will need to borrow the tool so it might take a couple of
weeks for me to get around to it and take the measurements. I haven't thought
to try it when hot, so I might warm up the engine and see if the same thing
happens.
I have to change the oil seal next week so I will have the prop off then and
while I have the prop off I will see if I can feel the play between the blade
and clamping hub. I agree with your definition of "no play" that warp drive
were getting at - that was what I meant but it may have been poorly worded. It
has been difficult to gauge and find the play because its only some blades, in
certain positions where I can feel it. Normally I just feel blade flex but if
I get it just right I can feel ever so slightly the unmistakable click click
feel as you move side to side and feel contact. Warp Drive said do not fly
until resolved, but they were refering to movement between the composite and
clamping hub, which I dont think I have, he seemed to think it may have been a
previous prop strike, but that is impossible - its only ever been on this float
plane.
As for the performance question - I find it great. Solo I can get 1500ft/min
which is great considering I am dragging 1500 floats into the air. Two people
is about 1000ft/min at 5250 which is as high as I have the engine set to Rev.
The blades are at 10 deg and cruise is about 85-90mph.
Also a question about the seal behind the flywheel. I think it was you larry
who wrote the guide that I have with the pictures. People have been using RTV
sealant when putting it in. My soob workshop manual says lithium grease on the
inside against the crack, and clean engine oil on the outside against the
housing. If you are using RTV sealant are you still using the oil - exaclty
where are you putting the RTV sealant? I have never used the stuff so I am not
totally sure how, why or where to apply it or what purpose it serves.
Cheerio
Brett
Quoting Larry McFarland :
>
> Brett,
> I believe Warp Drive means no movement between the composite and the
> clamping hub, but the take-up
> you feel at the redrive shaft could be nothing more than bearings
> setting cool within the housing. I'd bet you
> would find that when they are warm, and you know they do get "warm", the
> tolerences change as they cool, or
> perhaps the redrive housing has broken in a bit. I'd get a dial
> indicator on the hub and measure the exactitude
> of the play you find both diametral and axial. If you do that, I'll do
> the same and we might learn what or how
> much "play" is normal.
>
> Question though. How do you like the 72" on the Stratus? I'm using a
> 70" and would think you'd be getting a
> really good climb or cruise with yours.
>
> Larry McFarland
>
>
> rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Hey Soobers. Im scrating my head and not coming up with much (which is not
> >unusual for me). I have a 72" 3 blade warp drive on the EA81. When I take
> the
> >end of the prop blade, and wiggle gently from side to side I can get a tiny
> bit
> >of play (were are talking very very small barely noticable amount at the
> hub
> >somewhere) It has been bugging me for ages exactly where the play was. I
> >thought it was in a particular blade but then I tried something - if I
> place
> >one hand behind the prop hub and pull so the hub is firmly supported and
> then
> >wiggle - there is no play. So now I am thinking it might be a tiny bit
> play
> >somewhere else that is transfering though the hub and blade. Would it be
> >possible that the tiny movement I am feeling is coming from in the PRSU
> where
> >the prop shaft fits in its sleeve? I haven't had this PRSU apart yet so I
> am
> >not sure of the exact deisgn and tolerances. That would make more sense
> >because I have inspected the prop very carefully and cant find signs of
> wear.
> >The engine is coming up to 300 hours soon and is due for the bearing
> re-grease.
> >
> >
> >I emailed Warp Drive and asked and they said no movement is allowed
> (between
> >blade and hub).
> >
> >Ideas?
> >Brett
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
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http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stories and questions. |
Brett,
When you say click-click on only certain positions, I'd have to bet
you're feeling the rolling clearance within the bearings of your
redrive. With a little time, this could be expected when the hours say
you're near replacing them. Two bearings in tandem on a shaft would
probably do exactly what you describe at certain positions and have a
nearly imperceptible amount of slop on the thrust line.
On the small diameter o-ring seal seen inside the lower belt pully at
the crank end, I used RTV sealant behind it first, then added RTV to the
o-ring and packed it into place, because there is no relative motion on
this o-ring seal. The large diameter seal is pressed in place and white
lithium grease is added to the front face to keep it from abraiding.
I didn't write the instructions, or take the pictures, but I recieved
them from *Bill Morelli who did the hard work *before forwarding them on
to people like us. I've not had to remove my redrive bearings yet with
only 55 hours, but I do have spare sets of bearings, seals etc standing
by in my "consumables & spares" box.
Larry
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>
>Thanks Larry,
>
>I will do that but I will need to borrow the tool so it might take a couple of
>weeks for me to get around to it and take the measurements. I haven't thought
>to try it when hot, so I might warm up the engine and see if the same thing
>happens.
>
>I have to change the oil seal next week so I will have the prop off then and
>while I have the prop off I will see if I can feel the play between the blade
>and clamping hub. I agree with your definition of "no play" that warp drive
>were getting at - that was what I meant but it may have been poorly worded. It
>has been difficult to gauge and find the play because its only some blades, in
>certain positions where I can feel it. Normally I just feel blade flex but if
>I get it just right I can feel ever so slightly the unmistakable click click
>feel as you move side to side and feel contact. Warp Drive said do not fly
>until resolved, but they were refering to movement between the composite and
>clamping hub, which I dont think I have, he seemed to think it may have been a
>previous prop strike, but that is impossible - its only ever been on this float
>plane.
>
>As for the performance question - I find it great. Solo I can get 1500ft/min
>which is great considering I am dragging 1500 floats into the air. Two people
>is about 1000ft/min at 5250 which is as high as I have the engine set to Rev.
>The blades are at 10 deg and cruise is about 85-90mph.
>
>Also a question about the seal behind the flywheel. I think it was you larry
>who wrote the guide that I have with the pictures. People have been using RTV
>sealant when putting it in. My soob workshop manual says lithium grease on the
>inside against the crack, and clean engine oil on the outside against the
>housing. If you are using RTV sealant are you still using the oil - exaclty
>where are you putting the RTV sealant? I have never used the stuff so I am not
>totally sure how, why or where to apply it or what purpose it serves.
>
>
>Cheerio
>Brett
>
>Quoting Larry McFarland :
>
>
>
>>
>>Brett,
>>I believe Warp Drive means no movement between the composite and the
>>clamping hub, but the take-up
>>you feel at the redrive shaft could be nothing more than bearings
>>setting cool within the housing. I'd bet you
>>would find that when they are warm, and you know they do get "warm", the
>>tolerences change as they cool, or
>>perhaps the redrive housing has broken in a bit. I'd get a dial
>>indicator on the hub and measure the exactitude
>>of the play you find both diametral and axial. If you do that, I'll do
>>the same and we might learn what or how
>>much "play" is normal.
>>
>>Question though. How do you like the 72" on the Stratus? I'm using a
>>70" and would think you'd be getting a
>>really good climb or cruise with yours.
>>
>>Larry McFarland
>>
>>
>>rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Hey Soobers. Im scrating my head and not coming up with much (which is not
>>>unusual for me). I have a 72" 3 blade warp drive on the EA81. When I take
>>>
>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>end of the prop blade, and wiggle gently from side to side I can get a tiny
>>>
>>>
>>bit
>>
>>
>>>of play (were are talking very very small barely noticable amount at the
>>>
>>>
>>hub
>>
>>
>>>somewhere) It has been bugging me for ages exactly where the play was. I
>>>thought it was in a particular blade but then I tried something - if I
>>>
>>>
>>place
>>
>>
>>>one hand behind the prop hub and pull so the hub is firmly supported and
>>>
>>>
>>then
>>
>>
>>>wiggle - there is no play. So now I am thinking it might be a tiny bit
>>>
>>>
>>play
>>
>>
>>>somewhere else that is transfering though the hub and blade. Would it be
>>>possible that the tiny movement I am feeling is coming from in the PRSU
>>>
>>>
>>where
>>
>>
>>>the prop shaft fits in its sleeve? I haven't had this PRSU apart yet so I
>>>
>>>
>>am
>>
>>
>>>not sure of the exact deisgn and tolerances. That would make more sense
>>>because I have inspected the prop very carefully and cant find signs of
>>>
>>>
>>wear.
>>
>>
>>>The engine is coming up to 300 hours soon and is due for the bearing
>>>
>>>
>>re-grease.
>>
>>
>>>I emailed Warp Drive and asked and they said no movement is allowed
>>>
>>>
>>(between
>>
>>
>>>blade and hub).
>>>
>>>Ideas?
>>>Brett
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
Hi Larry and all other followers. Managed to get out to the plane today and do
some more investigating. Its definately not the prop - I pulled it off and
tried my wiggle experiment while the base was held firmly and there is no play
in any of my blades - thats good news as far as I am concerned - at least I am
not grounded.
So I put the prop back on and tried it again paying close attention to the upper
pulley and im pretty sure it is the bearings I can feel. I managed to get the
same effect with the prop off by grabbing each side of the upper pulley and
apply a small twisting force in each direction - I can feel the play if I get
it just right. I can also replicate it by grabbing the bases of two blades
with the prop on and applying a similar twisting/rocking force and I can feel
the tiny bit of play.
Guess I will go ahead and order some replacement bearings and see if that will
fix the problem.
Brett
BC, Canada, where it snowed to the 1000ft level and sent freezing rain to sea
level last night - in the middle of april!!!
Quoting Larry McFarland :
>
> Brett,
> I believe Warp Drive means no movement between the composite and the
> clamping hub, but the take-up
> you feel at the redrive shaft could be nothing more than bearings
> setting cool within the housing. I'd bet you
> would find that when they are warm, and you know they do get "warm", the
> tolerences change as they cool, or
> perhaps the redrive housing has broken in a bit. I'd get a dial
> indicator on the hub and measure the exactitude
> of the play you find both diametral and axial. If you do that, I'll do
> the same and we might learn what or how
> much "play" is normal.
>
> Question though. How do you like the 72" on the Stratus? I'm using a
> 70" and would think you'd be getting a
> really good climb or cruise with yours.
>
> Larry McFarland
>
>
> rueffy(at)jetthrust.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Hey Soobers. Im scrating my head and not coming up with much (which is not
> >unusual for me). I have a 72" 3 blade warp drive on the EA81. When I take
> the
> >end of the prop blade, and wiggle gently from side to side I can get a tiny
> bit
> >of play (were are talking very very small barely noticable amount at the
> hub
> >somewhere) It has been bugging me for ages exactly where the play was. I
> >thought it was in a particular blade but then I tried something - if I
> place
> >one hand behind the prop hub and pull so the hub is firmly supported and
> then
> >wiggle - there is no play. So now I am thinking it might be a tiny bit
> play
> >somewhere else that is transfering though the hub and blade. Would it be
> >possible that the tiny movement I am feeling is coming from in the PRSU
> where
> >the prop shaft fits in its sleeve? I haven't had this PRSU apart yet so I
> am
> >not sure of the exact deisgn and tolerances. That would make more sense
> >because I have inspected the prop very carefully and cant find signs of
> wear.
> >The engine is coming up to 300 hours soon and is due for the bearing
> re-grease.
> >
> >
> >I emailed Warp Drive and asked and they said no movement is allowed
> (between
> >blade and hub).
> >
> >Ideas?
> >Brett
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot Network
http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Brett,
You can get those bearings (and a belt if the time is right) from your
local bearing supplier. They are very common bearings and usually
available the same or next day.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rueffy(at)jetthrust.com
Subject: Stratus-List: bearing slop
Hi Larry and all other followers. Managed to get out to the plane today
and do some more investigating. Its definately not the prop - I pulled
it off and tried my wiggle experiment while the base was held firmly and
there is no play in any of my blades - thats good news as far as I am
concerned - at least I am not grounded.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AVIATION GROUP <aviationgrp(at)yahoo.com> |
m.poederbach(at)chello.nl, aviation-enthusiasts(at)yahoogroups.com
AVIATION News Group to view & share your valuable comments and the latest trends
and happenings in the aviation industry.
Please click on the attached yahoo group link site to share & receive the updates
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Please take few moments recommend us to your near & dears in the industry. We
welcome your valuable comments and updates.
With best regards
AVIATION NEWS.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AVIATION-NEWS/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Connecting to Bing primer ports on Stratus |
| From: | "Hansen, Ronald" <RH122050(at)ncr.com> |
I've put this off, but pretty soon I need to hook up my engine and I'm
not happy with what I've come up with so I'd like to ask for some help.
How are people hooking a primer line to the small fitting on the bottom
of the Bing carbs?
You could barely get one hose clamp on there and it's a metric fitting
(5mm), I think. I can squeeze some 1/4" ID yellow tygon down on it with
a small clamp, but that doesn't seem like a great solution. I think
vibration might cause the clamp to cut into the line and I'd like a more
robust line carrying fuel in the engine compartment. I guess I could
put some firesleeve around the tygon and try to find a hose clamp that
stays round when clamping that small.
As far as I can tell, the fitting is pressed into the carb and I haven't
messed with it. I've searched the archives and found I can get some
soft primer line from Lockwood Aviation, but I know others have solved
this problem, so I thought I'd ask. I could go back to using the
chokes, but I've got the primer installed and wired at this point.
Also, for carb balancing, are you incorporating a "T" in the lines or
disconnecting at the carb or maybe the primer solenoid?
Thanks, all.
Ron Hansen
Los Angeles
Zenair 601HDS, Stratus, BRS, 90%+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Connecting to Bing primer ports on Stratus |
Ron,
I never installed a primer. I use the choke and it starts immediately
year round. Actually, I didn't like my dual cables so I only have one choke
hooked up.
gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hansen, Ronald" <RH122050(at)ncr.com>
Subject: Stratus-List: Connecting to Bing primer ports on Stratus
>
> I've put this off, but pretty soon I need to hook up my engine and I'm
> not happy with what I've come up with so I'd like to ask for some help.
>
> How are people hooking a primer line to the small fitting on the bottom
> of the Bing carbs?
>
> You could barely get one hose clamp on there and it's a metric fitting
> (5mm), I think. I can squeeze some 1/4" ID yellow tygon down on it with
> a small clamp, but that doesn't seem like a great solution. I think
> vibration might cause the clamp to cut into the line and I'd like a more
> robust line carrying fuel in the engine compartment. I guess I could
> put some firesleeve around the tygon and try to find a hose clamp that
> stays round when clamping that small.
>
> As far as I can tell, the fitting is pressed into the carb and I haven't
> messed with it. I've searched the archives and found I can get some
> soft primer line from Lockwood Aviation, but I know others have solved
> this problem, so I thought I'd ask. I could go back to using the
> chokes, but I've got the primer installed and wired at this point.
>
> Also, for carb balancing, are you incorporating a "T" in the lines or
> disconnecting at the carb or maybe the primer solenoid?
>
> Thanks, all.
>
> Ron Hansen
> Los Angeles
> Zenair 601HDS, Stratus, BRS, 90%+
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Connecting to Bing primer ports on Stratus |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I just used some "thin walled" tygon tube from the hardware store that
is a push fit onto the fittings...no clamps.
I use a tee threaded into the primer solenoid.
Seeing how the tube only flows fuel for a few seconds and the volume of
fuel contained in the primer lines is very small I did not worry about
firesleev and such...Just kept the line tied up away from chafing or hot
components.
Frank
Stratus 360 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hansen,
Ronald
Subject: Stratus-List: Connecting to Bing primer ports on Stratus
I've put this off, but pretty soon I need to hook up my engine and I'm
not happy with what I've come up with so I'd like to ask for some help.
How are people hooking a primer line to the small fitting on the bottom
of the Bing carbs?
You could barely get one hose clamp on there and it's a metric fitting
(5mm), I think. I can squeeze some 1/4" ID yellow tygon down on it with
a small clamp, but that doesn't seem like a great solution. I think
vibration might cause the clamp to cut into the line and I'd like a more
robust line carrying fuel in the engine compartment. I guess I could
put some firesleeve around the tygon and try to find a hose clamp that
stays round when clamping that small.
As far as I can tell, the fitting is pressed into the carb and I haven't
messed with it. I've searched the archives and found I can get some
soft primer line from Lockwood Aviation, but I know others have solved
this problem, so I thought I'd ask. I could go back to using the
chokes, but I've got the primer installed and wired at this point.
Also, for carb balancing, are you incorporating a "T" in the lines or
disconnecting at the carb or maybe the primer solenoid?
Thanks, all.
Ron Hansen
Los Angeles
Zenair 601HDS, Stratus, BRS, 90%+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | reduction unit grease fitting |
Well, I finally took a pic of the grease fitting installed on the upper hub of
the Stratus reduction unit. Some of you asked about it, but I have been a long
time having my camera with me when at the hangar...but a picture is available
now for those who are interested...just ask.
I have over 100 hours on it since the installation and all looks well. For
those who were concerned about heat, it runs very cool. The bearings are simply
a little warm to the touch after flying...surprisingly cool. There is a little
residue that seeps out around the seal, but no mess. I have wiped it off two
or three times over past 100 hrs. I have shot a couple of squirts of grease
in at annual inspection...the second time today. Don Walker HDS TD 362 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: reduction unit grease fitting |
> of course, please send me a picture.
>
> gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com>
> To: "stratus-list"
> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 8:12 AM
> Subject: Stratus-List: reduction unit grease fitting
>
>
>>
>> Well, I finally took a pic of the grease fitting installed on the upper
>> hub of the Stratus reduction unit. Some of you asked about it, but I have
>> been a long time having my camera with me when at the hangar...but a
>> picture is available now for those who are interested...just ask.
>> I have over 100 hours on it since the installation and all looks
>> well. For those who were concerned about heat, it runs very cool. The
>> bearings are simply a little warm to the touch after
>> flying...surprisingly cool. There is a little residue that seeps out
>> around the seal, but no mess. I have wiped it off two or three times over
>> past 100 hrs. I have shot a couple of squirts of grease in at annual
>> inspection...the second time today. Don Walker HDS TD 362 hrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
Hey guys,
Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather my
belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed up...then
it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a drum with engine
temps over 195.
I changed bearings at 250 hours because the front were already worn, I think
because the belt was too tight. then set it to its current tension setting. Now
with another 100+ the bearings seem good, but that tension sure seems tight
in the summer. don walker hds td
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: belt tension |
Hi Don,
I frequently check the tension ( 1/4"@ 20lbs) and wondered about the
same thing. Seemed a bit tighter
this summer. Can't get better than 1/8" at 20lbs. Adjustment is
probably advisable.
Larry McFarland
Don Walker wrote:
>
>Hey guys,
> Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather my
belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed up...then
it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a drum with engine
temps over 195.
> I changed bearings at 250 hours because the front were already worn, I think
because the belt was too tight. then set it to its current tension setting.
Now with another 100+ the bearings seem good, but that tension sure seems tight
in the summer. don walker hds td
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: belt tension |
Larry,
My specs call for 1/8" at 20 lbs. with warm engine. How has the 1/4 been working
for you? don
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry McFarland<mailto:larrymc(at)qconline.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: belt tension
Hi Don,
I frequently check the tension ( 1/4"@ 20lbs) and wondered about the
same thing. Seemed a bit tighter
this summer. Can't get better than 1/8" at 20lbs. Adjustment is
probably advisable.
Larry McFarland
Don Walker wrote:
>
>Hey guys,
> Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather
my belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed up...then
it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a drum with engine
temps over 195.
> I changed bearings at 250 hours because the front were already worn, I think
because the belt was too tight. then set it to its current tension setting.
Now with another 100+ the bearings seem good, but that tension sure seems tight
in the summer. don walker hds td
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: belt tension |
Don,
I'd re-set mine last fall in much cooler temps, because it had a bit of
a rum, rum noise at 2800 rpm. Otherwise it
flew beautifully at all higher rpms. No detectible vibrations or wear
seen on the belt since. I thought things had
tightened a bit since winter, but expansion of the aluminum assembly may
be greater than the core fiber that
make up the belt. The latest measurements seemed tight, but as the
engine warms, perhaps it also lets up some.
Wish there was a better way to know whats happening, but very few seem
to have experienced problems
beyond timely bearing replacement.
Larry
Don Walker wrote:
>
>Larry,
>My specs call for 1/8" at 20 lbs. with warm engine. How has the 1/4 been working
for you? don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry McFarland<mailto:larrymc(at)qconline.com>
> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 8:04 AM
> Subject: Re: Stratus-List: belt tension
>
>
> Hi Don,
> I frequently check the tension ( 1/4"@ 20lbs) and wondered about the
> same thing. Seemed a bit tighter
> this summer. Can't get better than 1/8" at 20lbs. Adjustment is
> probably advisable.
>
> Larry McFarland
>
>
> Don Walker wrote:
>
> >
> >Hey guys,
> > Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather
my belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed up...then
it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a drum with engine
temps over 195.
> > I changed bearings at 250 hours because the front were already worn, I think
because the belt was too tight. then set it to its current tension setting.
Now with another 100+ the bearings seem good, but that tension sure seems tight
in the summer. don walker hds td
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: belt tension |
> Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather
> my belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed
> up...then it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a
> drum with engine temps over 195.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Don,
I normally check my belt tension when the engine is cold and found 5/16" def
@ 20 lb to be about right for my Stratus. I leave it there year round
(location is northern IL). This setting seems to be just a little looser
than the 1/8" required when hot, but I want it that way. I flew a rotax 503
with a similar belt drive on my Challenger before building my HD. Like you I
saw many bearing failures by going too tight on the belt, but never seen a
problem with one too loose. I saw one once that was so loose it was almost
falling off the sprockets, the owner said he has always run it that loose
and never had a problem!
I have some belt tensioning info I can send you if you like. It's mainly for
the rotax / Challenger setup, but it does talk about the 601 belt drive also
as a comparison.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
| Subject: | Re: belt tension |
Along with belt tension the subject of bearing failure has come up. What are
the typical signs and warnings of bearing failure?
Brett
Quoting Kelly Meiste :
>
> > Do any of you change belt tension for summer and winter? In cold weather
>
> > my belt is sloppy with engine cold and makes a little noise until warmed
> > up...then it is good. In Texas summer it is tight and seems tight as a
> > drum with engine temps over 195.
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Don,
> I normally check my belt tension when the engine is cold and found 5/16" def
>
> @ 20 lb to be about right for my Stratus. I leave it there year round
> (location is northern IL). This setting seems to be just a little looser
> than the 1/8" required when hot, but I want it that way. I flew a rotax 503
> with a similar belt drive on my Challenger before building my HD. Like you I
>
> saw many bearing failures by going too tight on the belt, but never seen a
> problem with one too loose. I saw one once that was so loose it was almost
> falling off the sprockets, the owner said he has always run it that loose
> and never had a problem!
> I have some belt tensioning info I can send you if you like. It's mainly for
>
> the rotax / Challenger setup, but it does talk about the 601 belt drive also
>
> as a comparison.
>
> Kelly Meiste
> 601 HD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot Network
http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
i was just going thru my logbook gathering temps, pressures, rpm's and
speeds. i'll be putting them in a spreadsheet that i have with other
peoples data in there too. anybody care to contribute? low, avg and high
oil temp, pressure, water temp, cyl head, climb and cruise rpm's, static and
WOT with prop specs and speeds, etc. OAT and ALT would be nice too but it's
hard to get a really good complete set of data. any other suggestions too.
everybody having fun flying? what's new? i'm in hawaii - month 10 out of a
year so it's back to reality pretty soon. been having fun with trikes and
gliders but i sure miss my little subaru powered pelican. had to miss SNF
and OSH but will be making Copperstate (flying commercial) and SNF (flying
my Pelican) next year I hope. I'm still planning on hanging an Airmaster
prop on the Stratus later this year, any thoughts on that? I'll be
reworking the exhaust and cowling again too. that's the good thing about
being away from it for a year - i'll be ready to do some work to clean it
all up.
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
Hi Gary,
I'll compile a spreadsheet of my info for you and send it your way soon.
If you recall my plane is a 601 HD Tri Gear (120 hours).
If anyone else is interested in my numbers I'd be happy to send a copy your
way also, so ask if your interested.
Hawaii!!! ...................... no comment!
Kelly
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> i was just going thru my logbook gathering temps, pressures, rpm's and
> speeds. i'll be putting them in a spreadsheet that i have with other
> peoples data in there too. anybody care to contribute? low, avg and high
> oil temp, pressure, water temp, cyl head, climb and cruise rpm's, static
> and
> WOT with prop specs and speeds, etc. OAT and ALT would be nice too but
> it's
> hard to get a really good complete set of data.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "P.H. Raker" <n556p(at)yahoo.com> |
Yes, Kelly,
I'd be interested to see your data. I'm not flying yet, but would
add it to the growing collection of data that I'll have to compare with
when I finally do fire it up. Thanx, in advance.
Phil Raker N556P HDS/Stratus ~85% complete
Hi Gary,
I'll compile a spreadsheet of my info for you and send it your way
soon.
If anyone else is interested in my numbers I'd be happy to send a copy
your way also, so ask if your interested.
Kelly
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
Fellow Stratusites,
I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
movement is coming from the prop bearings.
I put a scale down by the prop bearing center race and made the above
movement. There is movement there of probably less than .005" - Obviously
that slop is amplified at the blade tips.
Looking at the prop bearings that I pulled out two years ago, the inner
races of both bearings also had this slight slop.
This movement at the prop tips may have always been there but I had not
noticed it until now (417 flight hours) and it has me a bit concerned.
Anyway, does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel anything?
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
flight hrs. - 559 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
Bill,
Mine comes from the movement of the cog in the belt. there is more space in each
groove of the belt than the cog requires. they say this is for the escape
of air. My engineer buddy says it should have been made an exact fit. I dunno,
but I have noticed that prop movement from early on. Don Walker
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Morelli<mailto:billvt(at)together.net>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 5:18 PM
Subject: Stratus-List: Prop play
Fellow Stratusites,
I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
movement is coming from the prop bearings.
I put a scale down by the prop bearing center race and made the above
movement. There is movement there of probably less than .005" - Obviously
that slop is amplified at the blade tips.
Looking at the prop bearings that I pulled out two years ago, the inner
races of both bearings also had this slight slop.
This movement at the prop tips may have always been there but I had not
noticed it until now (417 flight hours) and it has me a bit concerned.
Anyway, does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel anything?
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
flight hrs. - 559 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
> I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
> blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
> about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
> movement is coming from the prop bearings.
> does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
> for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel
> anything?
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
> flight hrs. - 559 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Bill,
I just ran out to my plane & checked, but all I notice after 120 hours is
the usual 1/4" CW & CCW movement of the prop tips. I feel no front to back
movement.
Keep us posted as to what you find.
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Bill,
I have not noticed for and aft movement either. How old are your
bearings/belt?
When it came time to change the belt I just got new bearings from an
industrial bearing supplier...don't remember the cost but it was cheap
enough to just change the bearings 'cus I had already taken it all
apart.
AS I remember the end play of the bearings is set by the locknut set on
the back of the hub. Get a helper to flex the prop tips while you see if
you can feel movement between the locknuts and the aluminium casting.
If you can loosen the locknuts and tighten the preload on the bearing
just enough to make the play go away.
If the 417 hours is on the original bearings personally I would just
change them out as it is not THAT big of a job...Doing the belt is like
75% of the work...At least as far as I remember.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
Meiste
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Prop play
-->
> I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive
> prop blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see
> probably about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears
> that this movement is coming from the prop bearings.
> does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips for
> and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel
> anything?
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont -
417.0
> flight hrs. - 559 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Bill,
I just ran out to my plane & checked, but all I notice after 120 hours
is the usual 1/4" CW & CCW movement of the prop tips. I feel no front to
back movement.
Keep us posted as to what you find.
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
Hi bill,
I commented on this about 2 months ago and made some posts. Im not sure if you
can dig them out of the archives. I have exactly the same issue on my stratus
EA81 with 72" three blade prop. I initially thought it was a single blade but
I found its all blades and I too have a very very small amount of movement that
I have traced to the prop bearings. Seems to be only present when the bearings
are cold though. My engine is approaching 300 hours and I was going to change
the bearings at 300hours anyway. I have continued flying in the meantime and I
am watching it closely but I haven't seen any noticable degredation since I
first noticed it.
P.S. I have a pair of murphy 1500 straight floats for sale for $6000 USD.
Brett Rueff
Vanacouver Canada
Quoting Bill Morelli :
>
> Fellow Stratusites,
>
> I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
> blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
> about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
> movement is coming from the prop bearings.
>
> I put a scale down by the prop bearing center race and made the above
> movement. There is movement there of probably less than .005" - Obviously
> that slop is amplified at the blade tips.
>
> Looking at the prop bearings that I pulled out two years ago, the inner
> races of both bearings also had this slight slop.
>
> This movement at the prop tips may have always been there but I had not
> noticed it until now (417 flight hours) and it has me a bit concerned.
>
> Anyway, does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
> for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel anything?
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
> flight hrs. - 559 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot Network
http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rueffy(at)jetthrust.com |
I think Gary Wolf is floating around this forum. If so can we talk more about
what you have mentioned on the airsoob forum about stress reversals or prop
reversals, whichever it was for inflight adjustable props on the belt drive
stratus EA81. Its something I have not looked into but would like to learn
more about. Can you explain the phenomona a little more - is it only
adjustable props or fixed as well?
Thanks
Brett Rueff
Vancouver
Quoting Bill Morelli :
>
> Fellow Stratusites,
>
> I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
> blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
> about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
> movement is coming from the prop bearings.
>
> I put a scale down by the prop bearing center race and made the above
> movement. There is movement there of probably less than .005" - Obviously
> that slop is amplified at the blade tips.
>
> Looking at the prop bearings that I pulled out two years ago, the inner
> races of both bearings also had this slight slop.
>
> This movement at the prop tips may have always been there but I had not
> noticed it until now (417 flight hours) and it has me a bit concerned.
>
> Anyway, does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
> for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel anything?
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
> flight hrs. - 559 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Pilots!-For all your aviation resources visit
Jet Thrust.com- The Pilot Network
http://www.jetthrust.com
Please report IMMEDIATELY any abuse/spam or scams of our webmail system to
the webmaster of this website at the following address: webmaster(at)jetthrust.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry McFarland <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Bill,
The free movement you feel would probably not be available to the
running bearings because
as the grease slings about the rotating parts, it becomes a film which
would close the gaps
under pressure of rotation. I'd worry if the bearings had any rattle or
galled feel to them
when rotating, but doubt you have a serious problem. It might be cause
to remove the bearings
and look at them closely to feel any roughness in them once, but that
would be it for me.
I've no perceptible motion fore or aft in mine but the housing does get
overly warm to the touch
and that may be because of the takeup.
Larry McFarland
Kelly Meiste wrote:
>
>
>
>>I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive prop
>>blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see probably
>>about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears that this
>>movement is coming from the prop bearings.
>>does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips
>>for and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel
>>anything?
>>
>>Regards,
>>Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 417.0
>>flight hrs. - 559 landings
>>web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
I replaced both of my prop bearings and HTD belt on 11/10/03 at 291 hours.
So the bearings that are in there now have only 126 hours on them!!
I don't recall checking for this front to back play back when I replaced the bearings
but I think I would have noticed it??
Will look at Franks preload suggestion to see if I can take that slop out.
Regards,
Bill
Bill,
I have not noticed for and aft movement either. How old are your
bearings/belt?
When it came time to change the belt I just got new bearings from an
industrial bearing supplier...don't remember the cost but it was cheap
enough to just change the bearings 'cus I had already taken it all
apart.
AS I remember the end play of the bearings is set by the locknut set on
the back of the hub. Get a helper to flex the prop tips while you see if
you can feel movement between the locknuts and the aluminium casting.
If you can loosen the locknuts and tighten the preload on the bearing
just enough to make the play go away.
If the 417 hours is on the original bearings personally I would just
change them out as it is not THAT big of a job...Doing the belt is like
75% of the work...At least as far as I remember.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
Meiste
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Prop play
-->
> I have noticed that if I grab the tip of any of the three warp drive
> prop blades and move them in a for and aft motion, I can feel and see
> probably about a 1/32 or so of movement. Looking closer, it appears
> that this movement is coming from the prop bearings.
> does anyone have this issue? Could any of you move your prop tips for
> and aft next time you get to your aircraft and see if you feel
> anything?
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont -
417.0
> flight hrs. - 559 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Bill,
I just ran out to my plane & checked, but all I notice after 120 hours
is the usual 1/4" CW & CCW movement of the prop tips. I feel no front to
back movement.
Keep us posted as to what you find.
Kelly
Bill Morelli
billvt(at)together.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
Well, here is an update on my prop play issue.
Remember I had some for and aft play at the prop tips which turned out to be the
prop bearings.
Took Frank H's advice and tightened up the bearing preload as follows:
- Bent back locking ring on rear prop shaft lock nut
- Loosened both prop shaft clamp bolts and installed the spreader bolts
- Adjusted (tightened) the read nut (one just in front of the rear lock nut) until
the play was gone.
- Retightened lock nut at rear and bent locking ring back down
- Removed spreader bolts and tightened clamp bolts to 120 in/lbs
- All of this was done without changing the belt tension or tracking adjustments
and took less than 1/2 hour
- Went for a test flight with no problems
- After flight - felt rear bearing and it was warm to the touch but I could leave
my fingers on it so it was not heating up.
That's it
Thanks Frank !!!! If I ever get to meet you, I'll buy you a beer.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 418.6 flight
hrs. - 562 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Prop Play |
Thanks for the update Bill, glad to hear it was a relatively easy fix.
I'll place you memo in my files just in case.
Are you going to fly into Osh again this year?
Kelly
Do not achieve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net>
Subject: Stratus-List: RE: Prop Play
>
> Well, here is an update on my prop play issue.
>
> Remember I had some for and aft play at the prop tips which turned out to
> be the prop bearings.
>
> Took Frank H's advice and tightened up the bearing preload as follows:
>
> - Bent back locking ring on rear prop shaft lock nut
> - Loosened both prop shaft clamp bolts and installed the spreader bolts
> - Adjusted (tightened) the read nut (one just in front of the rear lock
> nut) until the play was gone.
> - Retightened lock nut at rear and bent locking ring back down
> - Removed spreader bolts and tightened clamp bolts to 120 in/lbs
>
> - All of this was done without changing the belt tension or tracking
> adjustments and took less than 1/2 hour
>
> - Went for a test flight with no problems
> - After flight - felt rear bearing and it was warm to the touch but I
> could leave my fingers on it so it was not heating up.
>
> That's it
>
> Thanks Frank !!!! If I ever get to meet you, I'll buy you a beer.
>
> Regards,
> Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 418.6
> flight hrs. - 562 landings
> web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Karnes" <jpkarnes2000(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | prop drive belt failure |
0.03 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_HTML BODY: HTML contains text after HTML close tag
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure. Luckily, I still was on the
ground. The belt had about 80 hours on it but dated back to when Stratus changed
from two belts to one (about three to fours ago?). Upon examination, the
"teeth" on the inside of the belt separated from the rest of the belt, thus
causing the belt to lose grip of the pulley and resulted in a failure. When
I called Mykal, he said that "materials degrade over time and the belt should
be changed out every year". This, of course, is contrary to his published maintenance
schedule for this item. Given the critical nature of this part and my
recent experience, I would have to agree and recommend a yearly change out of
the belt. I can't imagine the end result of a belt failure over hostile terrain...=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn
Karnes=0D=0AN601JK Zenith 601HDS=0D=0AWashington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | prop drive belt failure |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Great! and Mykal will be writing to inform all his customers of this
change will he?
To be fair to the belt I am surprised it failed...Was it the single 55mm
belt?...Thats a lot of work and it's the first failure of a single belt
I have heard of.
If the belt truly needs to be changed every year then I doubt he will be
selling many motors from now on.....Everyone will buy a Rotax.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Karnes
Subject: Stratus-List: prop drive belt failure
On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure. Luckily, I still
was on the ground. The belt had about 80 hours on it but dated back to
when Stratus changed from two belts to one (about three to fours ago?).
Upon examination, the "teeth" on the inside of the belt separated from
the rest of the belt, thus causing the belt to lose grip of the pulley
and resulted in a failure. When I called Mykal, he said that "materials
degrade over time and the belt should be changed out every year". This,
of course, is contrary to his published maintenance schedule for this
item. Given the critical nature of this part and my recent experience,
I would have to agree and recommend a yearly change out of the belt. I
can't imagine the end result of a belt failure over hostile
terrain...=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn Karnes=0D=0AN601JK Zenith
601HDS=0D=0AWashington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | prop drive belt failure |
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
John...Sorry to hear about your problem. This is important safety info.
Did the entire belt layer of teeth separate from the other layers of the
belt, or did the teeth all shear off? It will help to know what to look
for. I have the same belt that was changed when Stratus changed from
the dual 30mm to the single 60mm belt. I now have about 180 hours on
the new belt.
Thanks and glad you and your plane are ok,
Jim Weston
Concord, GA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Karnes
Subject: Stratus-List: prop drive belt failure
On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure. Luckily, I still
was on the ground. The belt had about 80 hours on it but dated back to
when Stratus changed from two belts to one (about three to fours ago?).
Upon examination, the "teeth" on the inside of the belt separated from
the rest of the belt, thus causing the belt to lose grip of the pulley
and resulted in a failure. When I called Mykal, he said that "materials
degrade over time and the belt should be changed out every year". This,
of course, is contrary to his published maintenance schedule for this
item. Given the critical nature of this part and my recent experience,
I would have to agree and recommend a yearly change out of the belt. I
can't imagine the end result of a belt failure over hostile
terrain...=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn Karnes=0D=0AN601JK Zenith
601HDS=0D=0AWashington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Karnes" <jpkarnes2000(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop drive belt failure |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Morelli" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Prop belt drive failure |
I don't buy the belt needs changing every year statement by Mykal.
I replaced mine the first and only time at 290 hours and the one I removed looked
as good as the new one. I now have 418 hours on the engine so this new belt
is at 128 hours.
Could you tell if possibly the belt loosened up for some reason (tension adjustment
slipped) ?? Was you tension set correctly?
As Frank said, there are quite a number of Stratus engines with a good number of
hours and this is the first report of a belt failure.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 418.6 flight
hrs. - 562 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Karnes" <jpkarnes2000(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Prop belt drive failure |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Prop belt drive failure |
Same here, Bill. My old one looked good as the new. I changed it at 250 hours and
three years old. However, I do preflight the belt occasionally, looking at
the teeth and layers. My new one is now three years old and looks good, but I
guess I will go ahead and replace it. It is against my nature to throw away good
stuff, but in an airplane I force myself to do it sometimes.
Mykal is a "nice guy", but covering his "ASS" on this one. Sometimes he feels
the need to be a "company man". Not being a pilot, he doesn't quite understand
our insistence on shooting straight about stuff. I wouldn't fault anyone for
putting a new one on each year, and Mykal will be happy to supply them.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Morelli<mailto:billvt(at)together.net>
To: stratus-list
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 5:35 PM
Subject: Stratus-List: RE: Prop belt drive failure
I don't buy the belt needs changing every year statement by Mykal.
I replaced mine the first and only time at 290 hours and the one I removed looked
as good as the new one. I now have 418 hours on the engine so this new belt
is at 128 hours.
Could you tell if possibly the belt loosened up for some reason (tension adjustment
slipped) ?? Was you tension set correctly?
As Frank said, there are quite a number of Stratus engines with a good number
of hours and this is the first report of a belt failure.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - 601HDS - Tri - Stratus (RAM Heads) - Vermont - 418.6 flight
hrs. - 562 landings
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clark.dale(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Stratus belt failure |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30 seconds
after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid flyer on floats,
back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about 200 hours on them and
the belt was about three years old. The prop pulley showed wear on the top of
the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth on all the teeth on the prop
pulley. The crank pulley also had some of the anodizing missing on some of the
teeth, but just small chips missing. I talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't
shed any light on what may have happened. I suspect that maybe the tension
was to tight on the belt and or the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I
am looking for a complete stratus redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows
of one I am interested in buying.
Dale 907 225 4930
I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30 seconds after
lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid flyer on floats, back
on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about 200 hours on them and the
belt was about three years old. The prop pulley showed wear on the top of the
teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth on all the teeth on the prop pulley.
The crank pulley also had some of the anodizing missing on some of the teeth,
but just small chips missing. I talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't
shed any light on what may have happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was
to tight on the belt and or the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking
for a complete stratus redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one
I am interested in buying.
Dale 907 225 4930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop drive belt failure |
I read an article recently about a Challenger
ultralight crash due to a failed belt. The article
explains that belt tension is critical. On this
aircraft, there was not enough tension. Details are
given on how to adjust tension.
Look for belt redrive failure Challenger on google.
Michel
PS: From Airventure :-)
--- John Karnes wrote:
>
>
> On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure.
> Luckily, I still was on the ground. The belt had
> about 80 hours on it but dated back to when Stratus
> changed from two belts to one (about three to fours
> ago?). Upon examination, the "teeth" on the inside
> of the belt separated from the rest of the belt,
> thus causing the belt to lose grip of the pulley and
> resulted in a failure. When I called Mykal, he said
> that "materials degrade over time and the belt
> should be changed out every year". This, of course,
> is contrary to his published maintenance schedule
> for this item. Given the critical nature of this
> part and my recent experience, I would have to agree
> and recommend a yearly change out of the belt. I
> can't imagine the end result of a belt failure over
> hostile terrain...=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn
> Karnes=0D=0AN601JK Zenith 601HDS=0D=0AWashington
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | prop drive belt failure |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Yeah I was thinking about this and wondered the same thing. Belt drive
failure so far (ha!) has been extremly rare. I wondered if the tooth
failure in another post was a result of the belt chattering on the
sprockets.
So far my belt/teeth look in perfect condition and I changed the first
one at about 3 years and 300 hours. The belt looked perfect.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Therrien
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: prop drive belt failure
I read an article recently about a Challenger ultralight crash due to a
failed belt. The article explains that belt tension is critical. On
this aircraft, there was not enough tension. Details are given on how
to adjust tension.
Look for belt redrive failure Challenger on google.
Michel
PS: From Airventure :-)
--- John Karnes wrote:
>
>
> On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure.
> Luckily, I still was on the ground. The belt had about 80 hours on
> it but dated back to when Stratus changed from two belts to one (about
> three to fours ago?). Upon examination, the "teeth" on the inside of
> the belt separated from the rest of the belt, thus causing the belt to
> lose grip of the pulley and resulted in a failure. When I called
> Mykal, he said that "materials degrade over time and the belt should
> be changed out every year". This, of course, is contrary to his
> published maintenance schedule for this item. Given the critical
> nature of this part and my recent experience, I would have to agree
> and recommend a yearly change out of the belt. I can't imagine the
> end result of a belt failure over hostile terrain...=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn
> Karnes=0D=0AN601JK Zenith 601HDS=0D=0AWashington
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus belt failure |
Thanks for posting that Dale. I think I'll be checking my pulley condition
when I get back, if I don't see any wear then it's worth the peace of mind.
A belt replacement might not be necessary every 100 hours but I'm gonna put
belt removal and inspection on my annual.
How did you adjust your belt? I use the 1/4" play at the prop tip when cold
method. That seems to be about right, when it warms up the play goes away.
I think it's a pain to adjust and keep the pulleys in parallel and get just
the right tension, but when it's setup it usually stays that way. Just a
little tighter or looser seems to make a big difference in sound and
vibration.
I was always afraid of making it too tight and cooking the bearings. I'd
like to put a thermocouple on the drive near the bearing. I figure if I
baseline the temps, maybe I'll see an increase if/when the bearing starts to
go. Does this sound worthwhile to anyone?
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <clark.dale(at)att.net>
Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid
> flyer on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about
> 200 hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some of
> the anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips missing.
> I talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what may
> have happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the belt
> and or the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a complete
> stratus redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am interested
> in buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid flyer
> on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about 200
> hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some of the
> anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips missing. I
> talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what may have
> happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the belt and or
> the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a complete stratus
> redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am interested in
> buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus belt failure |
Gary, it might be as simple as touching your bearings occasionally after flying...just
getting used to what is normal. Mine are okay to touch...not hot...just
warm. I think you could feel if they start heating up. then check them out further.
don
----- Original Message -----
From: gary<mailto:FlyinK(at)efortress.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
Thanks for posting that Dale. I think I'll be checking my pulley condition
when I get back, if I don't see any wear then it's worth the peace of mind.
A belt replacement might not be necessary every 100 hours but I'm gonna put
belt removal and inspection on my annual.
How did you adjust your belt? I use the 1/4" play at the prop tip when cold
method. That seems to be about right, when it warms up the play goes away.
I think it's a pain to adjust and keep the pulleys in parallel and get just
the right tension, but when it's setup it usually stays that way. Just a
little tighter or looser seems to make a big difference in sound and
vibration.
I was always afraid of making it too tight and cooking the bearings. I'd
like to put a thermocouple on the drive near the bearing. I figure if I
baseline the temps, maybe I'll see an increase if/when the bearing starts to
go. Does this sound worthwhile to anyone?
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html>
----- Original Message -----
From: <clark.dale(at)att.net<mailto:clark.dale(at)att.net>>
To: >
Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid
> flyer on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about
> 200 hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some of
> the anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips missing.
> I talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what may
> have happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the belt
> and or the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a complete
> stratus redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am interested
> in buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about 30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid flyer
> on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about 200
> hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some of the
> anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips missing. I
> talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what may have
> happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the belt and or
> the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a complete stratus
> redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am interested in
> buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stratus belt failure |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I don't know if thermocoupling your bearings will give you good data or
not. Its probably a case of try it and see. My guess would be the
cooling effect in flight will be highly ambient temperature dependant
which may well mask any useful data.
I think we now have three documented belt failures between this and the
Zenith list...Is that correct?...I hope this is not going the same way
as the valve guides!
Nervous Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
Gary, it might be as simple as touching your bearings occasionally after
flying...just getting used to what is normal. Mine are okay to
touch...not hot...just warm. I think you could feel if they start
heating up. then check them out further. don
----- Original Message -----
From: gary<mailto:FlyinK(at)efortress.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
>
Thanks for posting that Dale. I think I'll be checking my pulley
condition
when I get back, if I don't see any wear then it's worth the peace of
mind.
A belt replacement might not be necessary every 100 hours but I'm
gonna put
belt removal and inspection on my annual.
How did you adjust your belt? I use the 1/4" play at the prop tip
when cold
method. That seems to be about right, when it warms up the play goes
away.
I think it's a pain to adjust and keep the pulleys in parallel and get
just
the right tension, but when it's setup it usually stays that way.
Just a
little tighter or looser seems to make a big difference in sound and
vibration.
I was always afraid of making it too tight and cooking the bearings.
I'd
like to put a thermocouple on the drive near the bearing. I figure if
I
baseline the temps, maybe I'll see an increase if/when the bearing
starts to
go. Does this sound worthwhile to anyone?
Gary Krysztopik
Pelican PL - N522GK
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Newport, RI
http://members.efortress.com/flyink/index.html
com/flyink/index.html>
----- Original Message -----
From: <clark.dale(at)att.net<mailto:clark.dale(at)att.net>>
To: >
Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus belt failure
clark.dale(at)att.net
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about
30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an
Avid
> flyer on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have
about
> 200 hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop
pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the
teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some
of
> the anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips
missing.
> I talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what
may
> have happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the
belt
> and or the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a
complete
> stratus redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am
interested
> in buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
>
> I recently had the belt break on my Stratus EA81. I happened about
30
> seconds after lift off. I was able to dead stick the plane , an Avid
flyer
> on floats, back on the lake. The belt and redrive both have about
200
> hours on them and the belt was about three years old. The prop
pulley
> showed wear on the top of the teeth, the anodizing was worn off the
teeth
> on all the teeth on the prop pulley. The crank pulley also had some
of the
> anodizing missing on some of the teeth, but just small chips
missing. I
> talked to Mykal at stratus and he couldn't shed any light on what
may have
> happened. I suspect that maybe the tension was to tight on the belt
and or
> the tracking wasn't within tolerance. I am looking for a complete
stratus
> redrive if anyone has one for sale or knows of one I am interested
in
> buying.
> Dale 907 225 4930
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)ciaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus belt failure |
The first belt failure on a stratus setup I heard of was on the airsoob
list a couple years ago. The fellow was in Florida on a flying tour
with some other aircraft from South America . He was trying
to find a Florida source for a new belt. I have not heard of many
more may be about 2 others like Frank sez.
There were not many details possibly due to language difference problems.
Jim Pollard
Merlin Ont
ch601hds
ea81
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <FlyinK(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus belt failure |
> The first belt failure on a stratus setup I heard of was on the airsoob
> list a couple years ago. The fellow was in Florida on a flying tour
> with some other aircraft from South America . He was trying
> to find a Florida source for a new belt. I have not heard of many
> more may be about 2 others like Frank sez.
> There were not many details possibly due to language difference problems.
i think i remember that one, but it was the old two-belt design and I think
he lost one belt and didn't know until he opened the hood (that's
autoconversion talk). that one and another two-belt failure were the only
stratus failures that i ever heard of before these two recent ones. as far
as these two - just to make myself feel better - one was a pretty old belt
(not hours used but years aged - and btw, i got my single-belt engine in
2000 and they were already single belt for a while so if John's belt was
from when they first switched over then it is at least 6 or 7 years old) and
the other may have been some kind of problem since the pulley was worn ?
gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Belt life and failure. |
I have used a Jason belt for six years with no problems... now on my second one...from
Stratus. The info below leads me to wonder about the Gates Powergrip GT2.
Have any of you used it yet. Review the info below. It is from the article
Michel refers to in the note below. don Walker
The Gates PowerGrip GT2=AE version was introduced in February 2000. The GT2 belt
features a longer and more robust life and with its redesigned deep cog profile
is capable of transmitting up to 200% more power than previous PowerGrip GT
and PowerGrip HTD belts.
When tested against competitor belts at sprocket speeds up to 9000 rpm the GT2
belt outlasted the competitor belts more than two to one. As patented belt designs
expire numerous generic versions enter the marketplace. There are presently
at least 12 different brands of synchronous belts on the market. A recently
introduced belt features a small lateral groove along the face of the cog.
The purpose of the groove is to allow the release of trapped air and to reduce
noise generation. QCU, the manufacturer of the Challenger Ultralight was requested
to provide the research data or to provide the foundation for the imposition
of their 100-hour, one-year in-use limitation placed on the re-drive belt.
The stated belt limitations imposed b y QCU in the Challenger 50 Hour Inspection
Report was found to be arbitrary and without foundation. The QCU imposed belt
limitations remain unchanged despite technological advances in belt design and
durability.
The 880 8M 85 synchronous belt used on the Zenair 601 is about an inch wider and
6 inches shorter than the 960 08M 50 belt used on the Challenger. Belt life
is projected to be a minimum of 500 hours of operation utilizing a Subaru 100
hp 4-stroke engine at 4500rpm. While utilizing pre-G2 belt technology and design,
Zenair belt usage to 850 hours is commonplace in applications up to 200 horsepower.
----- Original Message -----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)<mailto:frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: prop drive belt failure
Yeah I was thinking about this and wondered the same thing. Belt drive
failure so far (ha!) has been extremly rare. I wondered if the tooth
failure in another post was a result of the belt chattering on the
sprockets.
So far my belt/teeth look in perfect condition and I changed the first
one at about 3 years and 300 hours. The belt looked perfect.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Therrien
To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: prop drive belt failure
I read an article recently about a Challenger ultralight crash due to a
failed belt. The article explains that belt tension is critical. On
this aircraft, there was not enough tension. Details are given on how
to adjust tension.
Look for belt redrive failure Challenger on google.
Michel
PS: From Airventure :-)
--- John Karnes > wrote:
> >
>
> On power up yesterday, I experienced a belt failure.
> Luckily, I still was on the ground. The belt had about 80 hours on
> it but dated back to when Stratus changed from two belts to one (about
> three to fours ago?). Upon examination, the "teeth" on the inside of
> the belt separated from the rest of the belt, thus causing the belt to
> lose grip of the pulley and resulted in a failure. When I called
> Mykal, he said that "materials degrade over time and the belt should
> be changed out every year". This, of course, is contrary to his
> published maintenance schedule for this item. Given the critical
> nature of this part and my recent experience, I would have to agree
> and recommend a yearly change out of the belt. I can't imagine the
> end result of a belt failure over hostile terrain...0D0A0D0AJohn
> Karnes0D0AN601JK Zenith 601HDS0D0AWashington
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601>
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby>
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
Here are findings from the Challenger belt failure.
FINDINGS
1) The engine driven reduction belt failed under high torque at a critical moment
during take-off.
2) The lower than optimum engine rpm prior to the occurrence was evidence of excessive
belt friction.
3) The belt failure was caused by inadequate tensioning of the belt.
4) The failed PowerGrip HTD belt was an earlier, less robust version of current
PowerGrip GT belts.
5) Synchronous belt manufacturers' prescribed belt-tensioning values and procedures
are not readily available to aircraft owners, pilots and maintainers.
6) The pilot was unaware that minor tachometer rpm fluctuations to above normal
values at take-off power indicated imminent belt failure and total loss of thrust.
7) The one-year, one hundred hour service life imposed by QCU on the Challenger
synchronous belt is arbitrary and without foundation.
8) For liability considerations the Gates PowerGrip belt application on the Challenger
(and other) aircraft is not endorsed by Gates Rubber Company.
9) Direction of rotation should be identified on the belt and that direction should
be maintained for the life of the belt.
10) The Challenger aircraft's docile stall characteristics averted a potentially
serious accident.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)ciaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Belt life and failure. |
At 06:09 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote:
>Zenair belt usage to 850 hours is commonplace in applications up to 200
>horsepower.
I wonder how common are 850 hour belt drive zenairs.
Also 200 hp zenairs seem to be commonplace also?
Jim Pollard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael & Donna Heit" <rmrlpfm(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | CHALLENGER BELT FAILURE |
Here is one link to a website detailing belt failures on the Challenger. As
an A&P I have flown, built, and inspected, hundreds of belt drive engine
powered aircraft. I inspected a belt for a fellow one time, and told him it
was about to fail but he chose to ignore my warnings and flew the aircraft
anyway. The belt failed on landing approach, and he ended up landing in a
oat field.
From what I have experienced and read over the years, my gut feeling is that
the largest percentages of belt failures were due to lack of proper
installation, poor or non existent proper inspection technique, and just
plain old fashion lack of knowledge.
The Challenger has been a very safe competent aircraft; many have flown some
amazing cross country flights, and I personally have flown several with
complete confidence in the design. I also do a very thorough pre flight
before I fly any aircraft, and if there are any doubts in what I see, I
don't fly.
October 05, 2004 - July 31, 2005
Stratus-Archive.digest.vol-ac