Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-fn
March 29, 2006 - April 24, 2006
Christian Tremblay wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I want to know who is building a CH640.
>
>I build from plan and I want to exchange informations and tricks with other
>CH640 builder.
>
>My rudder and mostly of the part of the tail wing are nearly completed.
>
>My website is located at : http://www.zodiac640.com
>
>Many photographies of my installation including a steel bending breake and
>press for ribs holes (home made).
>
>Thanks.
>
>Christian Tremblay
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 801801801801 |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Well, there's no reason that with the excellent communications that have developed
between builders that we can't have the same alert system in the non-certified
arena.
As an example, take the issues with the non-nitrated Corvair crank shafts. If I
was already flying a Corvair I would treat this no different than an AD. I personally
don't need the government to tell me that if the same thing is breaking
in a number of aircraft that I ought to get my part checked.
Doug Garrou wrote:
> One thing worth pondering further in the never-ending auto v. aircraft engine
debate is this AD point.
>
> True, only certified engines are subject to costly ADs (if you wish to keep them
certified, anyway), but that fact doesn't cut just one way. The AD system
is one manifestation of the fact that certified engines in the U.S. are subject
to an incredibly rigorous quality control and regulatory regime. This means
that owners at least have a CHANCE of FINDING OUT about potential problems in
their engines, from an authoritative source, backed up by actual data, BEFORE
the thing goes belly up.
>
> Compare this to the situation with some Subaru-based auto conversions discussed
on this list. Some of these engines had very serious flaws resulting in *multiple
in-flight powerplant failures*, even though the total number of these
engines in service is quite small compared to Lycosauruses. I suspect the *percentage*
of these engines experiencing major problems would be an absolute jaw
dropper in the world of certified engines.
>
> Does anyone really think that these engines wouldn't have been grounded if they
were subject to an AD regime?
>
> To each his own, but at the moment my auto conversion goes quiet at 8,000 feet
over a mountain range, the cost of the quality control and warnings available
through the AD system will likely seem fairly small.
>
> With all that said, I'd fly behind Ben Haas's engine any day. That thing just
looks COOL.
>
> --
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25008#25008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom(at)mcmsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 801801801801 |
<<>>
Although I had my Crank nitrided from the beginning, I felt that the LOW
sample volumn, the type of inspections and the lack of much knowledge of the
products when they were installed, did not lend as much credibility to the
movement as it is being given. But I'm glad it's happening and glad I
didn't have to make that decision. I would have probably kept flying on
mine if it was a NON nitrided crank, because with my experience with
nitriding other products, i didn't feel like the process would help the
problems being experienced... IF any. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 9:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 801801801801
>
> Well, there's no reason that with the excellent communications that have
developed between builders that we can't have the same alert system in the
non-certified arena.
>
> As an example, take the issues with the non-nitrated Corvair crank shafts.
If I was already flying a Corvair I would treat this no different than an
AD. I personally don't need the government to tell me that if the same thing
is breaking in a number of aircraft that I ought to get my part checked.
>
>
> Doug Garrou wrote:
> > One thing worth pondering further in the never-ending auto v. aircraft
engine debate is this AD point.
> >
> > True, only certified engines are subject to costly ADs (if you wish to
keep them certified, anyway), but that fact doesn't cut just one way. The
AD system is one manifestation of the fact that certified engines in the
U.S. are subject to an incredibly rigorous quality control and regulatory
regime. This means that owners at least have a CHANCE of FINDING OUT about
potential problems in their engines, from an authoritative source, backed up
by actual data, BEFORE the thing goes belly up.
> >
> > Compare this to the situation with some Subaru-based auto conversions
discussed on this list. Some of these engines had very serious flaws
resulting in *multiple in-flight powerplant failures*, even though the total
number of these engines in service is quite small compared to Lycosauruses.
I suspect the *percentage* of these engines experiencing major problems
would be an absolute jaw dropper in the world of certified engines.
> >
> > Does anyone really think that these engines wouldn't have been grounded
if they were subject to an AD regime?
> >
> > To each his own, but at the moment my auto conversion goes quiet at
8,000 feet over a mountain range, the cost of the quality control and
warnings available through the AD system will likely seem fairly small.
> >
> > With all that said, I'd fly behind Ben Haas's engine any day. That
thing just looks COOL.
> >
> > --
>
>
> --------
> W.R. Gig Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25008#25008
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder of an CH640 from plan |
> Christian, I like your website. Your homemade brake
> is inovative and your a plans builder like me too.
> I have a similiar brake system like yours, but
> haven't tried it out yet. I have very little room
> in my garage. I have the plans for the 701. Maybe
> we can compare notes....Thanks Bob S.
--- Christian Tremblay
wrote:
> Tremblay
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I want to know who is building a CH640.
>
> I build from plan and I want to exchange
> informations and tricks with other
> CH640 builder.
>
> My rudder and mostly of the part of the tail wing
> are nearly completed.
>
>
>
> My website is located at : http://www.zodiac640.com
>
>
>
> Many photographies of my installation including a
> steel bending breake and
> press for ribs holes (home made).
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Christian Tremblay
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender access covers |
I made two covers that had a sort of a tit in the middle of them. I drilled
a hole in a board about an inch across, smoothed the edges and then used a
broom handle to pound a protrusion into the aluminum. When I was satisfied,
I cut them round and put felt inside to ensure they didn't ground on the
sender. My plane will be at Sun-n-Fun for your inspection.
Phil Maxson
N601MX
601XL/Corvair
> > I do recall one person saying that he scratch built a domed
> > cover for his senders.
>
>If you get an answer on that, I would like to know as well. I have the same
>problem, but haven't tackled it yet (low on the priority list). Filing down
>the terminal didn't work for me, nor any of the other tricks previously
>mentioned, so I will also need some sort of domed covers.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder of an CH640 from plan |
Christian, I agree with Bob, I "LIKE" your brake. I am getting parts for
a 10' this weekend. I don't have anything that long on the CH701 I'm
scratch building, but my Smyth Sidewinder has 10' spars that I have been
wondering what I was going to do. Now I know!!!!!
Keep up the good work.
Keith
CH701
N 38.9947
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
85% of all 0.016" parts cutout and formed
**********************************************
ROBERT SCEPPA wrote:
>
>
>
>>Christian, I like your website. Your homemade brake
>>is inovative and your a plans builder like me too.
>>I have a similiar brake system like yours, but
>>haven't tried it out yet. I have very little room
>>in my garage. I have the plans for the 701. Maybe
>>we can compare notes....Thanks Bob S.
>>
>>
>
>--- Christian Tremblay
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>Tremblay
>>
>>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>>I want to know who is building a CH640.
>>
>>I build from plan and I want to exchange
>>informations and tricks with other
>>CH640 builder.
>>
>>My rudder and mostly of the part of the tail wing
>>are nearly completed.
>>
>>
>>
>>My website is located at : http://www.zodiac640.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Many photographies of my installation including a
>>steel bending breake and
>>press for ribs holes (home made).
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>>Christian Tremblay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>FAQ,
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>>
>>Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com
************************************
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************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Dunning <peterd(at)metec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: VDO fuel tank senders |
Hi Frank,
My 601HD wing tanks use the VDO sender kit P/N 226 002
10 to 180 ohms as supplied by ZAC. Empty = 10 ohms
VDO contact in the US.............
VDO North america
188 Brooke Road
Winchester, Virginia 22603
Ph: 540 665 0100
VDO specifically recommends that the fuel gauge is checked for compatibility
with the fuel sender. The installation instructions also refer to the VDO
Nth America catalog to check for matching.
I went one step further by setting up the sender/gauge for temporary
operation using a 12V bench power supply, and checked the general
calibration.
Cheers
Peter Dunning
CH601HD/912S
Wellington, NZ.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 3:40 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: VDO fuel tank senders
> Hi Guys can someone tell me what the model of the sender that ZAC uses is
> for the VDO fuel gauge.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rory Davis <n7cr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VDO fuel tank senders |
> From: Peter Dunning <peterd(at)metec.co.nz>
> Hi Frank,
>
> My 601HD wing tanks use the VDO sender kit P/N 226 002
> 10 to 180 ohms as supplied by ZAC. Empty = 10 ohms
The CH-701 illustrated assembly manual specifies 10-70 ohms for the fuel sender,
confirmed by measurement when installed a few days ago.
Rory
Lacombe, LA
CH-701 left wing waiting for fluting pliers to arrive...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 801801801801 |
| From: | Larry Landucci <lllanducci(at)tds.net> |
Without spending a lot of time tallying up the actual cost of the items
you mentioned I can assure you that it was very close to the $30,000
that you determined. All I can tell you is that the total amount
invested in my completed 801 was about $57,000, although that includes
a very full panel (approx $6000).
As far as the Lycoming AD's are concerned, my O-360 was never on any of
the lists that I received in the mail so was not affected. Besides, if
there was a potential problem wouldn't you want to know about it? If
you had a Lycoming clone I wonder if you would get information about
potential problems. The only instance of someone that went with a clone
(in our area) was delayed approx 6 months in his first flight because
of a faulty engine.
Larry Landucci -- N801LL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rookies Welding Tanks ... |
The FAA certification check pressure is only 3.5 psi in the installed
condition. 1 psi will do the job. Use a toy balloon on the vent so it
blows up long before you can damage anything.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bima, Martin" <mbima(at)hydro.mb.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Rookies Welding Tanks ...
>
>
> It took me 1 month of part time work to fab 4 tanks. All of that time
> included learning how to weld thin scrap aluminum (burning lots of
> holes), cutting, bending, beading, fitting, clamping, welding (with a 35
> year-old Purox torch). Before this I had 1 big bottle of amateur
> welding experience. The local tig welders did not believe me when I
> said that it was .025 - as they thought it was 1/2 the thickness of the
> minimum to torch-weld.
>
> I am not tooting my own horn here - just giving some other amateurs
> confidence that with enough patience, allowing yourself to fail and
> learn, an empty wallet (I am not paying $1000 to Zenith if there is a
> remote possibility I can do it myself for a tenth of the cost), and of
> course the stubbornness of a three-legged mule, IT CAN BE DONE.
>
> I pressure/leak tested all of them (blew up one of them like a balloon
> with about 4 psi), fixed the pinholes by welding, tested them again, and
> then dumped in the tank seal for even more insurance (although the pros
> recommended not to do that because the tank becomes un-weldable to
> repair). When the first tank leaks, I will just replace it with another
> complete tank (cost about $25 in materials).
>
> HAPPY BUILDING
>
>
> Martin Bima
> STOL-Vair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
Doing the rivet hole drilling on the center wing of my HDS.
There are a number of "No rivet zones". Thinking back to the rudder, you went
ahead and layed out and drilled the holes but didn't rivet them until final
assembly.
Same thing on the center wing? Lay out and drill the holes, but don't rivet
until mating with the fuselage, or leave them blank?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy" <ray.murphy(at)verizon.net> |
Fellow listers,
I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been prescribe 5mg.
of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this will affect passing a standard
3rd class medical?
Thanks
Ray Murphy
Bandon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
Looks encouraging. See www.leftseat.com/medcat1.htm and search for Prinivil,
Prinzide, Zestril, Zestoretic or Lisinopril. They are about 2/5th of the way
down the page.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ray Murphy
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 4:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Medical issue
Fellow listers,
I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been prescribe
5mg. of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this will affect passing a
standard 3rd class medical?
Thanks
Ray Murphy
Bandon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Cc: Stanley Challgren
| From: | Stanley Challgren <challgren(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Medical issue |
Ray:
Read the side effects closely. Lisinopril gave me a persistent dry
cough that only ended 2 months after switching to a different med.
Stan
On Mar 29, 2006, at 4:48 PM, Ray Murphy wrote:
>
>
> Fellow listers,
> I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been
> prescribe 5mg. of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this
> will affect passing a standard 3rd class medical?
>
> Thanks
> Ray Murphy
> Bandon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jlatimer1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No rivet zone |
Don't drill the holes. You will install parts later that will dictate where the
holes go. You can't just use the spacing specified on the drawings to locate
these holes.
Jerry
601HDS
>
> From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net>
> All-
> Doing the rivet hole drilling on the center wing of my HDS.
> There are a number of "No rivet zones". Thinking back to the rudder, you
went ahead and layed out and drilled the holes but didn't rivet them until final
assembly.
> Same thing on the center wing? Lay out and drill the holes, but don't rivet
until mating with the fuselage, or leave them blank?
> Bill
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel Vandenberg <djvdb63(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Medical issue |
The dry cough is usually a minor thing. It occurs in about 20% of patients, and
can by eliminated by switching to another class of medicine, as was mentioned.
Ray...Lisinopril is, overall, a great drug, and you are taking a low dose. The
key is whether it is adequately controlling your blood pressure. If so, you
will have no problems with your medical clearance, as long as there are no other
serious issues.
Dan Vandenberg, M.D.
Ray:
Read the side effects closely. Lisinopril gave me a persistent dry
cough that only ended 2 months after switching to a different med.
Stan
On Mar 29, 2006, at 4:48 PM, Ray Murphy wrote:
>
>
> Fellow listers,
> I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been
> prescribe 5mg. of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this
> will affect passing a standard 3rd class medical?
>
> Thanks
> Ray Murphy
> Bandon, OR
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Medical issue |
Ray,
Call or visit the doctor that does your flight physical as a
pre-physical consult for an answer.
Then it's up to you to decide if you want to continue take the stuff, or
he can prescribe something better..
Larry McFarland
Ray Murphy wrote:
>
>Fellow listers,
>I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been prescribe 5mg.
of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this will affect passing a standard
3rd class medical?
>
>Thanks
>Ray Murphy
>Bandon, OR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Medical issue |
MILDLY hypertensive shouldn't get you in trouble. I think you can get away with
about 155 over 90 or so.
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryMcFarland<mailto:larry(at)macsmachine.com>
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Medical issue
Ray,
Call or visit the doctor that does your flight physical as a
pre-physical consult for an answer.
Then it's up to you to decide if you want to continue take the stuff, or
he can prescribe something better..
Larry McFarland
Ray Murphy wrote:
>
>Fellow listers,
>I've been diagnosed as midly hypertensive and as such have been prescribe 5mg.
of Lisinopril per day. Does anyone know how this will affect passing a standard
3rd class medical?
>
>Thanks
>Ray Murphy
>Bandon, OR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Page <webmaster(at)upac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: About 912 muffler |
Jari, as far as I can tell on my new ZAC system it's just a can
without any internal baffles.
A word of caution however: make you you have ball joints on each
cyclinder tube otherwise you will get cracks and failures!! A lot of
people have had issues with rigid exhaust tubes so don't make the
same mistake! My new system even has ball joints on the exhuast tubes
exiting the can below the cowling.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Mar 29, 2006, at 8:14 AM, Jari Kaija wrote:
>
>
> I'm going to visit our metal dealer and I need to know structure of
> muffler's silencer "bottle". Is it just plain stainless steel can
> with 4
> intakes and one outlet, or has it steel plates (with or without holes)
> inside it for silencing purposes?
>
> ----------------------------------
> http://www.jarikaija.com
> http://www.project-ch701.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
I had a discussion with my machine shop this evening
about the way we use our engines. He was comparing
flying engine usage with (speed) boat engine usage.
Normally, I take off with 4500-4600 rpm (65 to 70
mph). Then, I cruise at 4300-4500 rpm. At level
flight, I get 4950 max rpm.
How is it for those of you guys using Soob engines on
CH601s?
The machine shop guy is telling me it is easier on
engine heads to rev at higher speed with less torque
and load than to be too much loaded at lower speed.
Michel CH601-HD; 177 hours since Oct 5, 2004
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brandon Tucker <btucke73(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rookies Welding Tanks ... |
I put a ball valve and a fitting on mine and simply
blew into the tank for pressurization. Stop when the
tank sides begin to balloon slightly. I then used my
daughters bubble solution to find pinholes and marked
them with a sharpie. I used 5052 for my wing tanks,
as per a Tony Bingelis article at .032, and 6061 for
the header tank, as per plans at .025. They were
all deformed after welding, but who cares? Thicker is
easier. If I were to do it again, I would probably do
it with .040. The weight difference could be
minimized slightly by the reduced amount of filler
needed to fill gaps due to heat distortion on the
thinner metal.
My welding services are available to anyone within
driving distance of Oceanside, Ca. -For the
reasonable rate of 2 cold delicious beers an hour.
R/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS
Corvair purring like a kitten
in final assembly
http://home.sandiego.edu/~btucker-03/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: About 912 muffler |
> Jari, as far as I can tell on my new ZAC system it's just a can
> without any internal baffles.
Thank's for the information!
> A word of caution however: make you you have ball joints on each
> cyclinder tube otherwise you will get cracks and failures!! A lot of
I noticed it, when I was in Rotax service training course. Will
include those ball joints!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
| Subject: | Weather for Sun-N-Fun |
Below is the link for the 10 day forecast for Lakeland , bring your Sun
Screen !!! For Canadians who are not snowbirds better bring SPF 50 to
cover up that Great White North skin. :-)
HYPERLINK
"http://www.intellicast.com/IcastPage/LoadPage.aspx?loc=klal&seg=LocalWe
ather&prodgrp=Forecasts&product=Forecast&prodnav=none"http://www.intelli
cast.com/IcastPage/LoadPage.aspx?loc=klal&seg=LocalWeather&prodgrp=Forec
asts&product=Forecast&prodnav=none
cdngoose
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 801801801801 |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I put a Superior XP-360 in my CH640 because it was thousands less than the Lycoming
and fits the FWF kit without modifications. It's a nice engine, and they
do issue service letters and AD's if any problems develop with the parts. Remember,
not only does it use the same parts as the Vantage certified engine, most
of the parts are certified replacement parts for Lycomings. If there is a problem,
you will hear about it. If the XP-360 wasn't available or was completely
untested, I would definitely have bought a Lycoming.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25239#25239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Goodings" <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Access Covers |
We made a nice cover for our fuel sender in the header tank of our 601
using fibreglass to cover a chemist's watchglass (but a child's ball of
suitable diameter would be just as good, to use as a mold; I've also seen
someone use the bottom of a jar, taking advantage of the curved-up
perimeter). A 3/4 inch hat brim was added later. This has the advantage
of being able to sand the hat brim to fit the curvature of the turtle deck
exactly (or the wing curvature in the case of wing tanks). The hat brim
was formed initially by laying a sheet of wax paper over the turtle deck.
The circular cover is held in place by 8 small sheet metal screws. A
nitrile ring gasket about 3/4 inches wide provides a bit of compression
spring to hold the sheet metal screws in place, and seals against rain.
This took a bit of time to make. The end product is nice. We all have
our own ways of wasting time!
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Waterloo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Craze" <garycraze(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Other Add-ons for Google Earth |
Ok... I'm a huge Google Earth fan, and I gotta say....THANKS !!
That's are REALLY cool use of Google Earth !
I use Google Earth all the time to preview approaches to see what the
surrounding area really looks like.
And the ability overal the sectional, WOW!
Thanks!
Gary
N801GC
Houston, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
Hi Michel,
I was told that the EA-81 Subaru has been revved supercharged to 10,000 rpm
and they hold together, so I take off at 4900 rpm, climb to altitude at
95 mph,
let off as EGTs climb thru 1400 deg f. I cruise at 125 if needed at
4800 rpm.
It does 5100 rpm maxed out with 17-deg on the prop, its top end is 133 mph.
Flying locally, I prefer low to mid range rpms of 4200 to 4500 to save
fuel at
105 to 115 mph. I think the Subaru will last longer if one conserves
rpms in
cruise, but don't understand a corelation between loading at low or high
speeds.
There doesn't seem to be any one rpm that doesn't work well in the
Subaru but
for the point where belt climb is noticed. Havn't had any of that of
lately.
Power loading would seem to even out if the mixtures are correct through
the full range. This is probably quite different from a Subaru in a car
where
power loading is linked more to inertia and the engine heads work more
against the tires on the street.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at 85.8 hours
Michel Therrien wrote:
>
>I had a discussion with my machine shop this evening
>about the way we use our engines. He was comparing
>flying engine usage with (speed) boat engine usage.
>
>Normally, I take off with 4500-4600 rpm (65 to 70
>mph). Then, I cruise at 4300-4500 rpm. At level
>flight, I get 4950 max rpm.
>
>How is it for those of you guys using Soob engines on
>CH601s?
>
>The machine shop guy is telling me it is easier on
>engine heads to rev at higher speed with less torque
>and load than to be too much loaded at lower speed.
>
>
>Michel CH601-HD; 177 hours since Oct 5, 2004
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Egan" <eedetailing(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Condition inspection list wanted |
Folks,
Anyone here have a good checklist for an annual
condition inspection of a 601?
Thanks,
Tim E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Young" <armyret(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection list wanted |
Tim- My POH has one in it which I'd be glad to make a copy and send you.
Give me an address off list and I'll be glad to do it.
Al Young
601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Egan" <eedetailing(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Condition inspection list wanted
>
> Folks,
> Anyone here have a good checklist for an annual
> condition inspection of a 601?
> Thanks,
> Tim E
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel Vandenberg <djvdb63(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Phil Maxson's 601XL/Corvair Video Clip |
This was posted to the Corvair list, but I think alot of folks on the Zenith list
will enjoy the video of Phil's Corvair-powered 601XL that is posted on William
Wynne's Web Site. Go to the link and click on the first photograph:
http://www.flycorvair.com/hangar.html
Dan
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Olfa is a brand of razor knives. I bought several at my local
hardware store (True Value stores).
I keep one of these knives in my work apron and use it several times
every day. It is wonderful for trimming adhesive tape down to the
size needed and other simple cutting tasks. It is also great for
opening those expensive packages from Aircraft Spruce including all
the little plastic bags of parts. This is the only tool I have found
that will strip Tefzel wire as well.
Paul
XL wings
>All-
> After watching the new Homebuilder Help video on Zenith
> construction, I was sold on something called the "Olfa Knife".
> Makes nice, straight cuts on sheet stock.
> Tried Home Depot, etc. and got no hits. Is anyone familiar with
> a similar tool, and what's it called in the States?
> Thanks.
>
>Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tinerj2005(at)tinerj.com" <tinerj2005(at)tinerj.com> |
As a first-time builder I've been caught by the no-rivet zone problem a
couple of times. It really means "no drill" zone.
Also, if you are building a 601 in the same order as the photo diagrams,
when you
get to the fuselage, that is the first time (I think) that rivet lines are
not necessarily straight. There are offsets to avoid being too close to the
edge of longrons. So, look at the drawings and at the photo diagrams to
catch these less than straight rivet lines.
John Hudson Tiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Davidson" <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Project table available in Northern Virginia |
That's right, the self proclaimed slowest builder on record has moved off
the table. My 601 fuselage is now on its gear and my project table is in
the way.
Free to a good home!
Table top is 4 by 10 feet with particle board top surface to stay straight
and flat. The top frame is overbuilt with 2x8s and 2x4s. I supported the
top with home made saw horses which I'm still using - not available at this
time, but you can copy them easily. So the table top is available now to
whomever can use it. Come and get it in Herndon, Virginia near Dulles
International (KIAD). For this price, it won't last long!
Jeff Davidson
CH 601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thesumak(at)aol.com |
Greetings. I'm an Ercoupe owner who is just starting a 601 project in
Morgantown, WV. There is so much Zenith stuff going on this year that I have decided
to drive to Sun & Fun (Ercoupe down for annual). My plan is to camp. My
schedule is flexible, but I would lobby to stay as long as possible. I have room
for one. If someone close to MGW or along my path is interested in joining
me and sharing expenses, please contact me off the list.
Bill Jones
304 296 9551
thesumak(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Wiki! |
Dear Listers,
I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone
from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many
things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting
tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists.
Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community
Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists
found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the
Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls
of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft".
I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days.
To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the
Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki
site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the
data at the site.
Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create
an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note
that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content.
The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content
found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update
it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI
PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a
flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information
with others with similar interests.
Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages.
And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page.
I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE
FUN!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Center Wing Spar, HDS |
All-
No doubt about it- Zenith sent me a center spar that was built incorrectly,
and may be unusable.
Picture available offlist. Take a look at the centerlines, see how much rib
I have to work with, and do the math. Just about a nice, round 10mm off. Project
on hold until I get word that I can safely use a factory part.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Cohen" <bradfnp(at)msn.com> |
I have two questions regarding the wingtip assembly for anyone who has gotten to
that stage with their XL;
1. on page 6-w-9 there is a table of X/Y coordinates for trimming the wingskin.
At the bottom of the table marked "wing tip rear skins" the X coordinate is 730
and Y (recently changed to) 395. I went to measure mine, but my "X" stops at
705. Thinking I had made a mistake I went back to page 6--w-8 and confirmed
that the width of the bottom rear wingskin is indeed only 705mm. So how, praytell,
did they come up with 730? there is no way you can have a value of 730
from the mainspar rivet line to the trailing edge of the wingskin if the skin
was only 705 to begin with.
What I ended up doing, was to trim the edge flush with the end of the rear channel.
Has anyone else come across this discrepancy?
2. The fiberglass wingtip; Are the flanges of the wingtip are supposed to be inside
the wingskin? would there be any adverse consequences to putting the fiberglass
flanges on the outside of the skin? after fiddling, begging and coercing
the flanges inside and being completely dissatisfied with the results, I am
considering putting mine on the outside, they just seem to fit much better this
way.
brad cohen
601XL
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JERICKSON03E(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection list wanted |
In a message dated 3/30/2006 3:11:19 PM Central Standard Time,
eedetailing(at)qwest.net writes:
Folks,
Anyone here have a good checklist for an annual
condition inspection of a 601?
Thanks,
Tim E
FAR part 43, appendix D. AC 43.13 is useful in that it gives advice on what
to inspect, and info on what the condition should be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net> |
Potential new builder of an 801 with a rivet question.....I've searched the archives
for reference to using solid driven rivets rather than pulled and not found
any discussion Has anyone used driven rivets or those along in the
project see any compelling reason not to use driven rivets Murray Myricks
Airport MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
| Subject: | Zenith Builders & Owners BBQ |
Hi Group, this is it, sign up is closed and I=92m heading out the door for
Sun-N-Fun! The Zenith Builders cook out is on Thursday April 6. I have
just counted everyone who sent me an E-Mail and we are presently at 146
people planning to attend. Add to that all the builders who are not
online that will show up at the show and we are poised to not only be
the largest event for Zenith builders and owners but possibly the
largest event of any group of aviation enthusiasts. If you have not yet
sent me an E-Mail then let me know at the Zenith booth, but only if you
have not sent me an E-Mail previously or I will get confused. I will be
buying all the food on Wed. We could use some deserts, pop and salads if
you wish to bring something we will be throwing on the burgers and dogs
plus this year were going to add wings to the menu, whoever brought the
strawberries last year, I hope your able to do it again! They were
really good. I would like to thank Jabiru USA, Homebuilthelp.com and
Sensornetics for there donations towards this event. David, Jon, Rick
and Myself will be donating the rest to ensure that you all have a great
time.
Guys & Gals this event is for you! It is not a Zenith sponsored event
but is one started by builders for builders. There are no formal name
tags this year either. Have fun, come out to the show and spend an
Evening with Chris Heintz and Gang!
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
Murray, this question has popped up before, using solid rivets will only
strengthen the area in which you use and will not strengthen the design.
The speed gain in an 801 will be less then 0.2mph but you will add
another 1000hrs to your build time and need a partner for most of the
process. The choice is ultimately yours but I really can't fathom any
reason or desire to solid rivet a STOL aircraft. In fact it makes little
sense to solid rivet any design that fly's at less then 200mph.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Murray
Randall
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 1:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivets
Potential new builder of an 801 with a rivet question.....I've searched
the archives for reference to using solid driven rivets rather than
pulled and not found any discussion Has anyone used driven rivets
or those along in the project see any compelling reason not to use
driven rivets Murray Myricks Airport MA
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
Murray,
I am building an 801. I might use countersunk rivets on my fuselage sides
just for looks. Although when I get to them, I really will probably use
"pop" rivets. I have used both kinds on other projects and the only reason I
can see to use them on an 801 is for looks. If you use the domed head driven
rivets, you end up with the same appearance. So, since there is no
advantage, strengthwise, do what ever you want. My opinion is, it's your
plane, do what you want.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivets
>
> Potential new builder of an 801 with a rivet question.....I've searched
> the archives for reference to using solid driven rivets rather than pulled
> and not found any discussion Has anyone used driven rivets or
> those along in the project see any compelling reason not to use driven
> rivets Murray Myricks Airport MA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Meiste" <kellymeiste(at)jcwifi.com> |
> Normally, I take off with 4500-4600 rpm (65 to 70
> mph). Then, I cruise at 4300-4500 rpm. At level
> flight, I get 4950 max rpm.
>
> How is it for those of you guys using Soob engines on
> CH601s?
> Michel CH601-HD; 177 hours since Oct 5, 2004
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Michel,
I normally fly my Stratus EA-81 as follows:
Take off = 4,500 RPM
Cruise = 4,000 RPM (approx 95 MPH)
Kelly Meiste
601 HD (135 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
On a slow plane like the 801 (and I doubt it would make hardly any
difference on a 601XL either) I can't see any reason other than
aesthetics for going for solid rivets.
They take a LOT! more time to set (and some skill...larger scew up
factor), needs lots of expensive tools (buy an ex RV builder dinner for
him and his Wife!) and need access to both sides of the rivet.
Its up to you if this is worth it to you...For me it would not.
I assume you can drop down one size if using solid rivets...I.e an AN4
pop rivet would be replaced with an AN3 C/s rivet...after you have
dimpled both parts of course. This would make it a lot easier.
Frank
601 HDS 394 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Ruddiman
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivets
-->
Murray,
I am building an 801. I might use countersunk rivets on my fuselage
sides just for looks. Although when I get to them, I really will
probably use "pop" rivets. I have used both kinds on other projects and
the only reason I can see to use them on an 801 is for looks. If you use
the domed head driven rivets, you end up with the same appearance. So,
since there is no advantage, strengthwise, do what ever you want. My
opinion is, it's your plane, do what you want.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivets
>
> Potential new builder of an 801 with a rivet question.....I've
searched
> the archives for reference to using solid driven rivets rather than
pulled
> and not found any discussion Has anyone used driven rivets
or
> those along in the project see any compelling reason not to use driven
> rivets Murray Myricks Airport MA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Deburring Blind Holes |
Can anyone tell me how to debur a "blind" hole? For example, on the 601XL
rudder, we do not install the upper bearing mount brackets (6T4-3) until we
are ready to install the rudder on the fuselage. This involves drilling
through the spar ((6T4-4) from the front to mount these brackets. Since the
rudder is already closed, there is no way to debur the back side of these
holes in the spar.
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Maselli <jfmasell(at)optonline.net> |
I have to agree. I actually found riveting to be an enjoyable job with my
pneumatic riveter. Even the hand riveter is satisfying to use. Also using
the standard blind rivets is much quicker and there are quite a few on the
801!
John Maselli
A Computer Consulting
516-524-0420
_____
I've stopped 1,014 spam messages. You can too!
One month FREE spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
Cloudmark SpamNet - Join the fight against spam!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Rivets
-->
On a slow plane like the 801 (and I doubt it would make hardly any
difference on a 601XL either) I can't see any reason other than aesthetics
for going for solid rivets.
They take a LOT! more time to set (and some skill...larger scew up factor),
needs lots of expensive tools (buy an ex RV builder dinner for him and his
Wife!) and need access to both sides of the rivet.
Its up to you if this is worth it to you...For me it would not.
I assume you can drop down one size if using solid rivets...I.e an AN4 pop
rivet would be replaced with an AN3 C/s rivet...after you have dimpled both
parts of course. This would make it a lot easier.
Frank
601 HDS 394 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivets
-->
Murray,
I am building an 801. I might use countersunk rivets on my fuselage sides
just for looks. Although when I get to them, I really will probably use
"pop" rivets. I have used both kinds on other projects and the only reason I
can see to use them on an 801 is for looks. If you use the domed head driven
rivets, you end up with the same appearance. So, since there is no
advantage, strengthwise, do what ever you want. My opinion is, it's your
plane, do what you want.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivets
>
> Potential new builder of an 801 with a rivet question.....I've
searched
> the archives for reference to using solid driven rivets rather than
pulled
> and not found any discussion Has anyone used driven rivets
or
> those along in the project see any compelling reason not to use driven
> rivets Murray Myricks Airport MA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Blind Holes |
Dave,
There is supposed to be a tool that you can stick through the hole and
deburr the back side. I haven't used one and don't even know if they really
exist. If you look on page 15 of the new Cleveland Tool catalog there is a
hooked blade for the deburring tool they have that looks like it might work.
If you don't have a catalog look on www.CleavelandTool.com .
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 5:15 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Deburring Blind Holes
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how to debur a "blind" hole? For example, on the 601XL
> rudder, we do not install the upper bearing mount brackets (6T4-3) until
> we
> are ready to install the rudder on the fuselage. This involves drilling
> through the spar ((6T4-4) from the front to mount these brackets. Since
> the
> rudder is already closed, there is no way to debur the back side of these
> holes in the spar.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> Madison, WI
> 601XL
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Maselli <jfmasell(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Deburring Blind Holes |
You can make a little tool that will go in the hole and scrap it clean. You
can use small debarring tools, consider a hook like instrument, take a wire
and bend it you can even use emery cloth wrapped around a thin piece of
wire. Not perfect but once you get a feel for it you will be able to clean
the back side. In addition if you use a sharp drill with very light pressure
their will be as cleaner hole that may not even need to be debarred!
John Maselli
A Computer Consulting
516-524-0420
_____
I've stopped 1,014 spam messages. You can too!
One month FREE spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
Cloudmark SpamNet - Join the fight against spam!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave VanLanen
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 8:15 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Deburring Blind Holes
-->
Can anyone tell me how to debur a "blind" hole? For example, on the 601XL
rudder, we do not install the upper bearing mount brackets (6T4-3) until we
are ready to install the rudder on the fuselage. This involves drilling
through the spar ((6T4-4) from the front to mount these brackets. Since the
rudder is already closed, there is no way to debur the back side of these
holes in the spar.
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith Builders & Owners BBQ |
Hi Mark:
Can I bring two guests? If not I'll just eat 1/3rd of
a burger and share.
Looking forward to seeing you and David.
Scott Laughlin
--- Zodie Rocket wrote:
>
>
> Hi Group, this is it, sign up is closed and I=92m
> heading out the door for
> Sun-N-Fun! The Zenith Builders cook out is on
> Thursday April 6. I have
> just counted everyone who sent me an E-Mail and we
> are presently at 146
> people planning to attend. Add to that all the
> builders who are not
> online that will show up at the show and we are
> poised to not only be
> the largest event for Zenith builders and owners but
> possibly the
> largest event of any group of aviation enthusiasts.
> If you have not yet
> sent me an E-Mail then let me know at the Zenith
> booth, but only if you
> have not sent me an E-Mail previously or I will get
> confused. I will be
> buying all the food on Wed. We could use some
> deserts, pop and salads if
> you wish to bring something we will be throwing on
> the burgers and dogs
> plus this year were going to add wings to the menu,
> whoever brought the
> strawberries last year, I hope your able to do it
> again! They were
> really good. I would like to thank Jabiru USA,
> Homebuilthelp.com and
> Sensornetics for there donations towards this event.
> David, Jon, Rick
> and Myself will be donating the rest to ensure that
> you all have a great
> time.
> Guys & Gals this event is for you! It is not a
> Zenith sponsored event
> but is one started by builders for builders. There
> are no formal name
> tags this year either. Have fun, come out to the
> show and spend an
> Evening with Chris Heintz and Gang!
>
>
> Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
> Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
> HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org /
> HYPERLINK
> "http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
> "http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
protection around
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
Try Office Max or Office Depot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JERICKSON03E(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Blind Holes |
In a message dated 4/2/2006 7:19:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Can anyone tell me how to debur a "blind" hole? For example, on the 601XL
rudder, we do not install the upper bearing mount brackets (6T4-3) until we
are ready to install the rudder on the fuselage. This involves drilling
through the spar ((6T4-4) from the front to mount these brackets. Since the
rudder is already closed, there is no way to debur the back side of these
holes in the spar.
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL
Dave, Take a look at www.mcmaster.com page2592. It has reversible
deburring tools at about 16 bucks. The one I have sleeps most of the time, works
well when it is needed.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Eatman" <pilotdna(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Deburring Blind Holes |
The tool you are looking for is generally called an "In-Out Deburrer." It
consists of an 1/8" shaft with a tiny spring loaded blade that sticks out of
one side. You chuck it in a drill motor, spin it up and push it through
then pull it back out of the hole. I got mine out of a dumpster behind a
Grumman plant (when I saw boxes of tools being dumped, I couldn't help it!).
Wicks Aircraft stocks it, search their site for "burraway" or just click the
option of "sheet metal" under the "tools" menu.
6061 is soft enough that you must be quick with the tool so that it doesn't
start to countersink or enlarge the hole.
Douglas Eatman
601XL/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
If, in your area, you have a glass business, there is a supplier that we all
use C.R. Laurence Co. whereby they sell the quality stainless steel OLFA
knives (product #SVR-1) and blade refills are available. These are a much
improved quality as they are a tool for glass businesses.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JohnDRead(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Olfa Knife
>
> Try Office Max or Office Depot.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't know why you would want to, but I don't see any reason you couldn't use
bucked rivets. I'm not an engineer, but I would be a little cautious installing
the rivets flush with countersinking. The tensile strength of the joint could
be affected. The tensile strength may be limited as much by the thin skins
we use as by the actual rivet strength, so a bucked flush rivet may be no stronger
than a pulled flush rivet in tension. It may even be weaker than a domed
pulled rivet.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26227#26227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 601XL First Ride |
Dear Thread Friends, had a great day Sunday. First, weather was good, gas
tanks full and winds blowing down the runway. My granddaughter, Catfish Ivy, 10
years old, took her first flight and it was a thrill. She had helped me
regularly for three years of building, but had never had the chance to fly. Fact
is
she had never even been to an airport before. We took off, zipped to 4,000 ft.
and after a couple minutes seeing how to control the stick she flew around
for almost an hour. She has a great feel for the plane and I must say she was
more sure of herself than my Wife who has flown with me for many years. Yes, I
was real proud of that little girl and I bragged big time on her. She was
blushing bright from all the attention. Well, I hope to meet a bunch of you fine
fellows at the S n F Bar B Q. You can meet Catfish as well. Best regards, Bill
of Georgia 601XL-3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601XL First Ride |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Excellent, Maybe you have encouraged a future female aviator there Bill.
I can certainly understand your pride.
Good job!
Frank
601HDS 394 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 8:24 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL First Ride
Dear Thread Friends, had a great day Sunday. First, weather was good,
gas tanks full and winds blowing down the runway. My granddaughter,
Catfish Ivy, 10 years old, took her first flight and it was a thrill.
She had helped me regularly for three years of building, but had never
had the chance to fly. Fact is she had never even been to an airport
before. We took off, zipped to 4,000 ft.
and after a couple minutes seeing how to control the stick she flew
around for almost an hour. She has a great feel for the plane and I must
say she was more sure of herself than my Wife who has flown with me for
many years. Yes, I was real proud of that little girl and I bragged big
time on her. She was blushing bright from all the attention. Well, I
hope to meet a bunch of you fine fellows at the S n F Bar B Q. You can
meet Catfish as well. Best regards, Bill of Georgia 601XL-3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Hollingsworth <walter2005(at)earthlink.net> |
Please remove me from your list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Tedford" <rick.tedford(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Hello All : Can anyone recommend a method of making the trim stay on the canopy
? I have had a dickens of a time with trying to keep same on the canopy .
All suggestions will be appreciated . ( I have had no success with the glue recommende
by ZAC )
Regards to all
Rick Tedford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john H" <professor71(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Hi Rick
I used clear silicone and it has worked fine.
John
>From: "Rick Tedford" <rick.tedford(at)sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Zenith-List: Glue for rubber trim on canopy
>Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 14:27:32 -0400
>
>
>
>Hello All : Can anyone recommend a method of making the trim stay on the
>canopy ? I have had a dickens of a time with trying to keep same on the
>canopy .
>All suggestions will be appreciated . ( I have had no success with the glue
>recommende by ZAC )
>
>Regards to all
>Rick Tedford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gas Welding for Rookies |
As the author of the Kitplanes article, parts I and II
(mentioned below), I highly recommend the Meco Midget
torch. I was using it last weekend thinking how glad
I was that I learned to gas weld. All of my
experience has been on thin steel, but I plan to learn
to weld thin aluminum with the torch soon. I ordered
the flux and filler rods from Tinmantech.com but they
have been gathering dust mostly. For anybody that's
interested, part II of my article was about the
technique of welding with oxy/acet. and I posted it
here:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/WeldingPart2.pdf
Part I was about gathering the bottles, goggles, etc.
and I don't think I scanned it.
In following this thread I saw no mention of goggles
for aluminum welding. I did a lot of research on this
and it seems that you need blue goggles to filter out
the orange flame that can obscure the puddle when
aluminum welding. I saw this the one time I tried it
with regular goggles. I found some cobalt blue
goggles that have a gold tint on the front to protect
your eyes after an extensive internet search a few
years ago. I can't find the link right now so I can't
post the location. Apparently the cobalt blue goggles
that smelters use is not approved for aluminum welding
because it damages your eyes. Something to keep in
mind.
Happy Building,
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Sun-N Fun Bound!
--- "Condon, Philip M." wrote:
> http://www.tinmantech.com/html/kent_white.php
Last year,
> Kit Planes did a article on gas welding and used the
> same torch
> (Meco)that Kent sells (get the tip kit and carrying
> fish)
> http://www.tinmantech.com/html/meco_midget_torch.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdascomb(at)aol.com |
After using Cortec 373 under all my riveted surfaces for a year or so, I
think I discovered a hidden benefit .........It's just sticky enough that if all
my rivets somehow fall out, this stuff is going to hold the plane together!
How's that for a safety feature?
(No Gracy....I'm only kidding)
George
701 N701GD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Gas Welding for Rookies |
I went through the Gas Welding E.A.A. seminar last January and the
instructor specifically mentioned that there is nothing about gas welding
light that can damage your eyes. The darker lens and special color lens is
strictly for allowing you to see the puddle and how the material is reacting
to the flame. Tig welding is another story as is any electric welding.
Dave
And I highly recommend taking the course. I welded aluminum too but you
don't want any aluminum I welded in your plane.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of N5SL
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: RE: Gas Welding for Rookies
In following this thread I saw no mention of goggles
for aluminum welding. I did a lot of research on this
and it seems that you need blue goggles to filter out
the orange flame that can obscure the puddle when
aluminum welding. I saw this the one time I tried it
with regular goggles. I found some cobalt blue
goggles that have a gold tint on the front to protect
your eyes after an extensive internet search a few
years ago. I can't find the link right now so I can't
post the location. Apparently the cobalt blue goggles
that smelters use is not approved for aluminum welding
because it damages your eyes. Something to keep in
mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Heart attack averted |
All-
I've had a lot of off-list questions about the latest bump in the road, and
rather than try to answer them individually, here goes- get in for a long story!
This was a case where there was no glaring mistakes that jump out and grab
your eye until it seems that it's too late. It's known as cumulative error. A
combination of factory error, then procedural error, finally doubled by a visit
from Mr. Murphy.
From the HDS builder's manual for the center wing- "Clamp the L Angle at STA.
900 and 1014 over the pre-drilled holes in the Spar caps. Next clamp the (Nose)
rib to the L Angle and check the alignment of the pre-drilled holes in the
Spar Web with the Rib flange. Back drill with #20."
When I did this, the web holes were off center with the starboard gear inboard
nose rib flanges (The web holes were off by 3mm) but still legal. We've all
been there. That's great for the the nose ribs, but your rear gear ribs are
locked in with no slack.
When I started working with the rear ribs, I found that the A6 holes barely
showed contact with the inboard edge of the doubler. The gear rib alignment checked
out, so I measured the A6 holes. The starboard side was right on the money
by my calculations, but the port was inboard by 7mm. I triple checked everything,
then decided my best course of action was to drill holes to the centerline
of the port doublers, and contacted Zenith as to how best fill the extra
holes.
Moving back around to the nose side, I made nose rib adjustments TO THE WRONG
SET OF HOLES, doubling the error. It wasn't until I set the rear bottom skin,
straigthening up all the ribs until they were square and perpendicular, that
the problem was noticable. This is why my picture looks so hideous.
Bottom line- I'll have 2 sets of A6s in the inboard gear rib flanges, and will
make .025 doubler strips for both front and back of the affected web flange,
but we're back on the road.
Amazing how two holes can damn near ruin the next couple of months!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Ap. Rodrigues de Brito" <lenabeto(at)uol.com.br> |
Hi Murray,
I'm building a Zodiac Xl 601 all with flush head rivets.
It's hard, but it's getting beautiful.
The hardest thing was the body and the tail.
The wing were easier.
I built a dimple machine and it helped me a lot.
I'll send you some pictures of teh Zodiac.
Best regards,
Roberto Brito S=E3o Paulo -- Brazil
Zodiac XL 601--Jab 3300 serial number 6096 -70%
Stol Ch 701 serial number 6342
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christian Tremblay <cj.tremblay(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP |
Hi,
Somebody can tell me if this engine is suitable for aviation?
Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP
Thanks,
Christian T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodie rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith Builders & Owners BBQ |
you are more then welcome to come with company.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "N5SL" <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Zenith Builders & Owners BBQ
>
> Hi Mark:
>
> Can I bring two guests? If not I'll just eat 1/3rd of
> a burger and share.
>
> Looking forward to seeing you and David.
>
> Scott Laughlin
>
> --- Zodie Rocket wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Group, this is it, sign up is closed and I=92m
> > heading out the door for
> > Sun-N-Fun! The Zenith Builders cook out is on
> > Thursday April 6. I have
> > just counted everyone who sent me an E-Mail and we
> > are presently at 146
> > people planning to attend. Add to that all the
> > builders who are not
> > online that will show up at the show and we are
> > poised to not only be
> > the largest event for Zenith builders and owners but
> > possibly the
> > largest event of any group of aviation enthusiasts.
> > If you have not yet
> > sent me an E-Mail then let me know at the Zenith
> > booth, but only if you
> > have not sent me an E-Mail previously or I will get
> > confused. I will be
> > buying all the food on Wed. We could use some
> > deserts, pop and salads if
> > you wish to bring something we will be throwing on
> > the burgers and dogs
> > plus this year were going to add wings to the menu,
> > whoever brought the
> > strawberries last year, I hope your able to do it
> > again! They were
> > really good. I would like to thank Jabiru USA,
> > Homebuilthelp.com and
> > Sensornetics for there donations towards this event.
> > David, Jon, Rick
> > and Myself will be donating the rest to ensure that
> > you all have a great
> > time.
> > Guys & Gals this event is for you! It is not a
> > Zenith sponsored event
> > but is one started by builders for builders. There
> > are no formal name
> > tags this year either. Have fun, come out to the
> > show and spend an
> > Evening with Chris Heintz and Gang!
> >
> >
> > Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
> > Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
> > HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org /
> > HYPERLINK
> > "http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
> > "http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> >
> >
> > Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> protection around
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
Does anyone have any experience with the 180HP Jabiru 5100A? Seems like it could
be a possibility for my 801. I don't know anything more than what I have read
on their website. Just checking all possibilities.
Dave in Salem
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Aluminum Welding for Rookies ... |
| From: | "Bima, Martin" <mbima(at)hydro.mb.ca> |
(THIS IS RATHER LONG AND BORING FOR THE BUILDER NOT INTERESTED IN AL
WELDING - SORRY)
Some tips from a former rookie aluminum gas welder:
1. I welded my tanks with a big-ol PUROX. I think it was formerly used
to weld engine blocks to locomotive couplers (what I want to say it that
it is a HUGE burner). You ever try hammering staples with a
sledgehammer?
So, do you absolutely need the MECO torch or similar? No.
The dumb thing I did was to order the MECO torch and ultra-light weight
hose AFTER finishing the tanks (I was learning 4130 tube welding now)
and it was 1000x easier to use the MECO. It is well worth the
investment, to save time, frustration, gas, aluminum, and your wrist.
(I HAVE NO AFFILIATION WITH KENT WHITE OR MECO)
2. Aluminum welding absolutely requires a means to filter out that
orange flame. Remember that aluminum goes from hard, to liquid, to
gaping hole without any color change.
3. Reading glasses inside your goggles will let you get closer to the
action. You absolutely have to see that puddle start to form, and if
you are at arms-length away, you'll miss it. I have perfect vision, but
have become addicted to those glasses for all welding now. It makes
that little puddle the size of a football field!
4. A respirator. I use one for all welding. There is some debate on
this, but I err on the safe side. Cooking fluxes and gaseous metals
can't be good for you. The other benefit is that when you exhale, you
are not blowing warm, moist air on your work.
5. WATCH someone do it for a while - or even better - get some
instruction. I could not find anyone local that melted aluminum with
gas, so I had Kent White fly up from California to show me how (in the
form of his video tape of course). Just like painting, most of the
labour in aluminum welding comes in the prep. I was welding a perfect
seem with a beautiful thick bead until I came to a speck of AL-oxide.
She glowed bright orange, turned dark-gray, and made a big hole. Repair
consisted of scraping out the crud, filing down to shiny metal, and
adding lots of flux and filler.
6. Lots of practice. The last practice piece I have is one where I
welded a 1" x 1" x 3/16" thick piece into a .025 sheet.
7. POST-Weld treatment. Get that flux and other stuff out of there and
protect your work and work area.
8. Although you CAN cut the powder flux with alcohol, don't. I did this
once. I probably passed the flame to close to the cup of flux and it
took my 5 year old son to come into the shop and tell me that there was
a fire in the cup (I was wearing those blue goggles, remember - you
can't see orange flames). No damage done other than one melted cup.
HAPPY WELDING
Martin Bima
Winnipeg
STOL-Vair
www.mts.net/~embima
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | ith-List:Blind hole deburrer |
Just discovered a easy and disposable blind hole deburring tool. You're
walking on them.
Take a steel rivet mandrel and grind a edge on one side for about 1/4". Sort
of like a short blunt knife blade. Then bend about 3/16" of this sharpened
part up toward the rest of the shaft (less than 90 degrees). Put a paint
spot on the shaft so you know which way the bend is facing when its in the
hole. Now chuck it in a slow cordless drill and insert it in the hole to be
deburred by starting at an angle and then straightening out. Spin the drill
and then pull up gently. Practice on scrap before you use it on your spar.
My first one worked great.
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Further investigation looks like the load range C tires are 6 ply.
Cheng Shin offers a 6 ply tire for $19 (mail order) and $32 for the
Carlisle item also mail order.
Anyone know if the Chen shins work OK...in other words are rated
accordingly?
Or did ZAC originally supply load range B tires?
Help!...:)
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ELT and Transponder/Altimeter certification |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantc(at)ca.inter.net> |
In Canada the ELT must be certified annually, and the Altimeter
(transponder/encoder) must be certified each 2 years if you are flying IFR
or VFR in class B, C airspace etc...
As amateur builders (owner maintenance) I'm guessing this is difficult to do
without some special test equipment/training? Or is it? What are those of
you flying, doing for certification of these two pieces of equipment?
Answer me off-forum if you prefer to remain below the radar ha ha!
--
Grant Corriveau
C-GHTF / HDS / CAM100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Rick, I used some gue I got at a motor parts store, Black tube, tough as hell
when it dries and sticks to plastic glass, rubber and painted metal. Problem
is the tube is at the airport and I'm leaving for S n F, Can you wait until
next week when I return and can write you the name of the stuff ? Best regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Gates <leogates(at)allvantage.com> |
Just went out to the hangar to check. My original ZAC tires (1997 kit)
are 4.80-8, "NANCO" brand, load range "C".
270 landings in past year and not one sign of wear - grass strip ;-)
Leo Gates
N601Z
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>
>Snip---------
>
>Or did ZAC originally supply load range B tires?
>
>
>Help!...:)
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Gates <leogates(at)allvantage.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
I used "Shoe Goo" from my local hardware store. Clear, dries clear,
water and solvent proof, and will glue ANYTHING TO ANYTHING. This
includes Lexan and will not fog Plexiglass.
Leo Gates
N601Z
Rick Tedford wrote:
>
>Hello All : Can anyone recommend a method of making the trim stay on the canopy
? I have had a dickens of a time with trying to keep same on the canopy .
>All suggestions will be appreciated . ( I have had no success with the glue recommende
by ZAC )
>
>Regards to all
>Rick Tedford
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Tedford" <rick.tedford(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Thanks Bill : Have a great time at S & F and yes I can wait
Best regards
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: <JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Glue for rubber trim on canopy
>
> Rick, I used some gue I got at a motor parts store, Black tube, tough as
> hell
> when it dries and sticks to plastic glass, rubber and painted metal.
> Problem
> is the tube is at the airport and I'm leaving for S n F, Can you wait
> until
> next week when I return and can write you the name of the stuff ? Best
> regards,
> Bill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <d3dw(at)msn.com> |
ZAC originally supplied load range B by Chen, but the inflation capacity is less.
the wal-mart tires for $9.95 is what I have been using...they show a higher
capacity...that of load range C or close.
----- Original Message -----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)<mailto:frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: tires
Further investigation looks like the load range C tires are 6 ply.
Cheng Shin offers a 6 ply tire for $19 (mail order) and $32 for the
Carlisle item also mail order.
Anyone know if the Chen shins work OK...in other words are rated
accordingly?
Or did ZAC originally supply load range B tires?
Help!...:)
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jonathan Starke" <jonathan(at)entry.co.za> |
| Subject: | Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Hi All,
Just thought I would let you all know, my bird has flown the coupe, she is now
out of the garage, and at the field, awaiting final assembly...
Should be test flown this weekedn - can't wait...
Zodiac XL
912S
All complete, in two years to the day!
Cheers
Jonathan Starke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AVIIDFLYIER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
I am Tom Knox a kit builder in Tarboro, NC. I have the rudder built and 85
percent of the tail kit complete. I had to put it all back in the crate in
order to protect it as I finished another project...my house. House is
complete and now I have another problem...my cardiologist say no more long projects
to worry about. I am THINKING of letting my parts go. Do you have any idea
how I would find someone who wants a tail kit.
Tom Knox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue for rubber trim on canopy |
Tom,
Let everyone on this list know about it. Which you probably just did. Also,
maybe Barnstormers. I sold a rudder on Ebay a few years ago.
Dave in Salem
----- Original Message -----
From: <AVIIDFLYIER(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Glue for rubber trim on canopy
>
> I am Tom Knox a kit builder in Tarboro, NC. I have the rudder built and
> 85
> percent of the tail kit complete. I had to put it all back in the crate
> in
> order to protect it as I finished another project...my house. House is
> complete and now I have another problem...my cardiologist say no more
> long projects
> to worry about. I am THINKING of letting my parts go. Do you have any
> idea
> how I would find someone who wants a tail kit.
>
> Tom Knox
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl(at)cox.net> |
List,
I just bought 3 new NANCO 4.80-8 6pr tires directly from MATCO for
$20.37 each. I ordered them Sunday from MATCO's website, and they
arrived Tuesday via UPS. Shipping cost was $14.81, totaling $75.92 for
the whole order. These are the exact same tires that were supplied with
my original ZAC kit, which I purchased in 1998. They can be found at:
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php selecting the "TIRE; 4.80-8 6
PR (TIRT480-8)"
The reason I need new tires is that the inside sidewalls on the mains
had cracked pretty badly over the winter - their first winter outside.
A bit puzzling, since the outside sidewalls look fine, and the nosewheel
looks fine. Tires exposed to oxiding agents like ozone and even regular
atmospheric oxygen do deteriorate over time, and I guess 8 years is a
bit of time - but the part that rankles me is that 7 of those years were
in storage in my garage! The fact that only the inside sidewalls
cracked makes me wonder if it doesn't have something to do with brake
fluid (DOT 5). Although I don't have any brake line leaks, I do
remember making a mess when I originally filled them up.
Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 42 hrs, 53 landings
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | ELT and Transponder/Altimeter certification |
List,
I just had my transponder checked last week. The whole test took all of
5 minutes and did not require removal of anything form the aircraft. I
had mentioned to the the technician ahead of time that I knew the blind
encoder from my Dynon was giving the transponder the correct altitude
(29.92 pressure altitude) and that the transponder was encoding for that
altitude, because I could read it on my ATD-300 "Traffic Watch"
collision avoidance device. All the technician did was use a device to
interogate my transponder and read its output signal. I received
official paperwork stating that "I certify that the ATC Transponder
tests and Inspections required by FAR Part 91.413 were performed and
found to comply with FAR Part 43 Appendix F." Total cost, including the
paperwork was $60. The shop was "Avionics Shop" at TWF.
Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 42 hrs, 53 landings
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl(at)cox.net> |
List,
I forgot to mention that the NANCO tires
I bought from MATCO state on the sidewalls:
"6 P.R. 71M, LOAD RANGE C, TUBELESS"
"MAX. LOAD 745 LBS AT 90 P.S.I. COLD"
I use my with inner tubes (which MATCO also supplies) at 30 psi.
Paul
Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 42 hrs, 53 landings
Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
How about the heat from the brakes?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Hartl" <paulhartl(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:42 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: tires
>
> List,
>
> I just bought 3 new NANCO 4.80-8 6pr tires directly from MATCO for
> $20.37 each. I ordered them Sunday from MATCO's website, and they
> arrived Tuesday via UPS. Shipping cost was $14.81, totaling $75.92 for
> the whole order. These are the exact same tires that were supplied with
> my original ZAC kit, which I purchased in 1998. They can be found at:
> http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php selecting the "TIRE; 4.80-8 6
> PR (TIRT480-8)"
>
> The reason I need new tires is that the inside sidewalls on the mains
> had cracked pretty badly over the winter - their first winter outside.
> A bit puzzling, since the outside sidewalls look fine, and the nosewheel
> looks fine. Tires exposed to oxiding agents like ozone and even regular
> atmospheric oxygen do deteriorate over time, and I guess 8 years is a
> bit of time - but the part that rankles me is that 7 of those years were
> in storage in my garage! The fact that only the inside sidewalls
> cracked makes me wonder if it doesn't have something to do with brake
> fluid (DOT 5). Although I don't have any brake line leaks, I do
> remember making a mess when I originally filled them up.
>
> Paul
>
> Paul Hartl, N414PZ, 601HDS/Jabiru 3300A, 42 hrs, 53 landings
> Flight Simulator 2002/4 Zodiac Website: www.members.cox.net/paulhartl
> Sun Valley, Idaho 83340 208-788-9147
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gfduncan" <gfduncan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Homebuilder help videos.- |
I understand that there are homebuilder help videos available for the 601 XL
Any ideas where these can be purchased?
Thanks,
GF Duncan
gfduncan(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
From: Leo Gates <leogates(at)allvantage.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: tires
Just went out to the hangar to check. My original ZAC tires (1997 kit)
are 4.80-8, "NANCO" brand, load range "C".
270 landings in past year and not one sign of wear - grass strip ;-)
Leo Gates
N601Z
/Grass is certainly easy on the tires. I had more wear in 3 months off
pavement than in the next 3 years off grass.
alex/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4(at)tlb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilder help videos.- |
www.HomebuiltHelp.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gfduncan" <gfduncan(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:06 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Homebuilder help videos.-
>
> I understand that there are homebuilder help videos available for the 601
XL
> Any ideas where these can be purchased?
>
> Thanks,
> GF Duncan
> gfduncan(at)cox.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilder help videos.- |
Here is the address:
http://www.homebuilthelp.com/
William Dominguez
plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
--- gfduncan wrote:
>
>
> I understand that there are homebuilder help videos
> available for the 601 XL
> Any ideas where these can be purchased?
>
> Thanks,
> GF Duncan
> gfduncan(at)cox.net
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilder help videos.- |
I dont know if there is one specialy for the XL , but are all great videos.
www.homebuilthelp.com
Saludos
Gary Gower.
gfduncan wrote:
I understand that there are homebuilder help videos available for the 601 XL
Any ideas where these can be purchased?
Thanks,
GF Duncan
gfduncan(at)cox.net
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Other Add-ons for Google Earth |
| From: | "ToddK" <tkneib(at)marellasands.com> |
:o Wow! Those addins are great. I'll have to tell my MS FlightSim buddies about
these.
Thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26705#26705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AVIIDFLYIER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Other Add-ons for Google Earth |
I am into MS Flight Sim. what are the Google ad on??Please I missed it
Tom Knox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monty Graves <mgraves(at)usmo.com> |
| Subject: | Zenith 701 take off videos |
Someone posted a link to a 701 landing and taking off recently, and I lost
the link and the video.
Anyone have the link?
Or other links to good clips of the 701 demonstrating short takeoff
Monty G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john butterfield <jdbutterfield(at)yahoo.com> |
hi list
i have been looking at the plans for a few days, and
the placement of the middle balance fairlead seems to
be on a L-Angle, but it only shows up in the partial
view on the drawings. I am going to connect it to the
rear seat panel, but if this is incorrect let me know.
my brain has hit a void spot, maybe scotch brite
poisoning? i acturally feel stupid sending this, but
better truth than false illusion
john butterfield
601xl, corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "neitzel" <n963wb(at)frontiernet.net> |
Greetings all,
Some time ago there was a discussion about the requirement for the new 406 Mhz
PLB. I went to an FAA site and after wading through countless pages knew less
than when I started. It appeared that it was going to be an ICAO requirement
only, which would mean the 121.5/243.0 would still be monitored in the US. I
was on the Aviation Digital Data Service site today and they were able to say
in one sentence what took the FAA hundreds of pages to say (and left me clueless).
Apparently the current ELT system will shut down on 2/1/09. There after
only the 406 Mhz PLB will be monitored. If anyone wants to get the understandable
explanation of this new system, go to ADDS and you will see on the opening
page the links to get the correct information. I'm glad I ran into this info
as I can now return the Ameri-King ELT, that I just bought, and get a full
refund towards the purchase price of the more expensive 406 Mhz unit.
I would put the ADDS address here but it is about a foot long. If you don't already
have ADDS in your favorite list, use any search engine and type in ADDS.
Aviation Digital Data Service will be one of the first to come up. There is
also an wealth of weather data available on this site.
Dick Neitzel
Sayner, WI
701 Jabiru 2200
About 70% Hope to be on the gear by end of week end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
not really, the ELT info is on the first page
http://adds.aviationweather.noaa.gov/
-
Dave
...........I would put the ADDS address here but it is about a foot long.
If you don't already have ADDS in your favorite list, use any search engine
and type in ADDS. Aviation Digital Data Service will be one of the first to
come up. There is also an wealth of weather data available on this site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Minimum Edge Distance |
Recently I e-mailed some questions to Nick regarding edge distances. In his
response, he included a pdf file labeled CS #101. Based on his e-mail, it
sounds like this may be an excerpt from a complete construction manual that
will be coming out later in the summer. Anyway, when I looked at this page
it showed the minimum edge distance formula as 1.5d. In the material we
received at our workshop, the minimum edge distance formula was represented
as 2d. I asked Nick in a follow-up e-mail which formula was correct, and he
responded that 1.5d is correct. Can anyone shed any additonal light on this
discrepancy for me?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
Madison, WI
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <paulrod36(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Edge Distance |
According to my old copy of 43.13 Para 99d(1) calls for edge distance of not
less than 2D, and spacing of not less than 3D. They may have changed it
since 1972.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Minimum Edge Distance
>
> Recently I e-mailed some questions to Nick regarding edge distances. In
his
> response, he included a pdf file labeled CS #101. Based on his e-mail, it
> sounds like this may be an excerpt from a complete construction manual
that
> will be coming out later in the summer. Anyway, when I looked at this
page
> it showed the minimum edge distance formula as 1.5d. In the material we
> received at our workshop, the minimum edge distance formula was
represented
> as 2d. I asked Nick in a follow-up e-mail which formula was correct, and
he
> responded that 1.5d is correct. Can anyone shed any additonal light on
this
> discrepancy for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> Madison, WI
> 601XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Edge Distance |
Hi Dave,
Not sure what's up with this but my information received with the rudder
and again with the complete kit (arrived here 15MAR06 so I think it was
current) is that the ideal edge distance is three times the hole diameter.
In other words, for a 1/8" rivet: 1/8" equals 0.125" which multiplied times
3 equals 0.375" . Multiply that by 25.4 mm per inch to get an ideal edge
distance of 9.525 mm . That's why we were instructed to use 10.0 mm for
the rivet line where it was feasible. In a tight area, we were told that 7.5
mm was adequate: in other words, about 2.5 x the diameter is the minimum
edge distance. I have no idea why they would suddenly switch to a guideline
of 1.5 x d . You might want to review this with and ask why it has changed
because this does indeed represent a significant recent change in technique.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL working on tail
Rudder workshop (8-9DEC05 still fresh in memory)
Subject: Zenith-List: Minimum Edge Distance
>
>
> Recently I e-mailed some questions to Nick regarding edge distances. In
> his
> response, he included a pdf file labeled CS #101. Based on his e-mail, it
> sounds like this may be an excerpt from a complete construction manual
> that
> will be coming out later in the summer. Anyway, when I looked at this
> page
> it showed the minimum edge distance formula as 1.5d. In the material we
> received at our workshop, the minimum edge distance formula was
> represented
> as 2d. I asked Nick in a follow-up e-mail which formula was correct, and
> he
> responded that 1.5d is correct. Can anyone shed any additonal light on
> this
> discrepancy for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> Madison, WI
> 601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Edge Distance |
Is think that the 1.5 times diameter is from the edge of the hole, the 2 x
diameter is from the centre of the hole. That's been my understanding for
both my a/c.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Edge Distance |
Measuring from the edge of the hole is not very useful in the construction
process unless you want to draw the line, then guess where to spot the drill
bit tip to have the edge touch the line. Distance from the edge of the hole
sounds like the stuff a DAR might use to evaluate the quality of the
construction. While building, it is more appropriate to work on the line
which translates to distance from the center of the hole to the edge. That's
how my instructions were written and it makes sense from the builder's
prospective.
Ed Moody II
>
> Is think that the 1.5 times diameter is from the edge of the hole, the 2 x
> diameter is from the centre of the hole. That's been my understanding for
> both my a/c.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trimming messages |
| From: | Richard A Hartwig <rhartwig11(at)juno.com> |
PLEASE...please think before you hit the "Reply" when responding to
something on the Zenith List. Yesterday a couple of people resent the
whole digest from the day before. This makes the Digest very difficult
to read and also fills up the archives with useless repeats. Matronics
etiquette says to trim down the message you are replying to...leave only
what is necessary for understanding.
Dick H
rhartwig11(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Minimum edge distance |
Way back in the cold war days, when I was designing sheet metal structure at McDonnell
Aircraft, the standard edge distance was 2D plus .06 inch (.31 inch for
a 1/8 rivet, just under 8mm). If we didn't put a dimension on the rivet pattern,
that edge distance was assumed and gave the mechanics some leeway in locating
the hole. 2D was adequate distance, but we had to show that dimension on
the drawing. In many cases, the stress analysts would approve 1.5D. These were
the standards used on the F4 and F101 fighters.
These edge distances were for solid (bucked) rivets, not pulled rivets such as
the Avex rivets we are using. Usually the designer tries to balance the shear
strength of the fastener with the shear tearout strength of the sheet, but other
factors sometimes enter in. Avex rivets have a lower shear strength than
solid AN rivets, and 6061-T6 is not as strong as the 2024-T3 used for those military
airplanes. For my own 601, I am assuming that 2D is adequate.
George Swinford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
The cheapest 406 MHz unit I know of is the Artex ME406
(http://www.artex.net/me406.html), under $1000.
If you find yourself faced with posting a very long web address (URL) use
http://tinyurl.com to create a short equivalent. The tinyURL for the link
above is http://tinyurl.com/nwjoa. Not a very impressive demo but it will
create an equally short address for ones hundreds or thousands of characters
long.
BTW "PLB" is a misnomer for an ELT. A Personal Locator Beacon is typically a
portable, hand-held device (also on 406 MHz) and generally cheaper than a
406 MHz aircraft ELT. You can get one including an internal GPS for around
$800 (I'm ignoring the units intended for marine use). The down-side is that
they have to be manually activated.
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VideoFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming messages |
<<<< Matronics etiquette says to trim down the message you are replying
to...leave only what is necessary for understanding.>>>>
Amen!!!!!!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130 |
Weird... My drawings 4/06 (SP) doesn't have information of jury struts material.
Even drawings dated as 2003 doesn't include it. Older CH701 (non SP) uses
one bended 4130 pipe.
Is it a same 4130N or is it 6061-T6?
----------------------------------
http://www.jarikaija.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130 |
| From: | "Ashcraft, Keith -AES" <Keith.Ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
Hi Jari,
My drawings (4th Edition, 6th printing 02/2002) page 7-V-10 shows:
NOTE: ONE PIECE WING STRUTS 4130N ROUND SEAMLESS TUBE 1.125"OD X 0.035"
3SP JURY STRUTS -- .500"OD X 0.035" (8 REQ'D) -- 6061-T6 ROUND TUBE
4SP JURY STRUT ANGLE -- t=3D0.025" 6061-T6 -- (4 + 4 BRACKETS REQ'D)
5SP JURY STRUT BRACKETS -- 4130 t=3D0.050" -- (2 REQ'D)
6SP JURY STRUT BRACKETS -- 4130 t=3D0.050" -- (2 REQ'D)
7SP JURY STRUT CAP -- t=3D0.250" 6061-T6 -- l=3D21 (12 REQ'D) l=3D38 (4 REQ'D)
It looks like for the actual jury struts (3SP), mine indicates 6061. I have also
heard that for the Front and Read Struts, they have changed to streamline 4130
material, but I don't know if that is true.
Good luck,
Keith
*************************************************************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jari Kaija
Sent: Sat 4/8/2006 4:31 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130
Weird... My drawings 4/06 (SP) doesn't have information of jury struts material.
Even drawings dated as 2003 doesn't include it. Older CH701 (non SP) uses
one bended 4130 pipe.
Is it a same 4130N or is it 6061-T6?
----------------------------------
http://www.jarikaija.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient should
check this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT Industries
accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted
by this e-mail.
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair(at)ATT.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130 |
I've got a pre SP and mine is 6061 (though not bended, I didn't much care for that
design). My neighbor built an SP kit and his struts were also 6061 (and a much
better method of strut attachment than the early drawings).
Mike
Jari Kaija wrote:
>
> Weird... My drawings 4/06 (SP) doesn't have information of jury struts material.
> Even drawings dated as 2003 doesn't include it. Older CH701 (non SP) uses
> one bended 4130 pipe.
>
> Is it a same 4130N or is it 6061-T6?
>
> ----------------------------------
> http://www.jarikaija.com
> http://www.project-ch701.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130 |
Hi all,
I don't know where those 3D s came from, it wasn't my typing. It had to
be the my work's web base mail system!!!!
Keith
******************************************************
Ashcraft, Keith -AES wrote:
>
>Hi Jari,
>My drawings (4th Edition, 6th printing 02/2002) page 7-V-10 shows:
>
>NOTE: ONE PIECE WING STRUTS 4130N ROUND SEAMLESS TUBE 1.125"OD X 0.035"
>
>3SP JURY STRUTS -- .500"OD X 0.035" (8 REQ'D) -- 6061-T6 ROUND TUBE
>4SP JURY STRUT ANGLE -- t=3D0.025" 6061-T6 -- (4 + 4 BRACKETS REQ'D)
>5SP JURY STRUT BRACKETS -- 4130 t=3D0.050" -- (2 REQ'D)
>6SP JURY STRUT BRACKETS -- 4130 t=3D0.050" -- (2 REQ'D)
>7SP JURY STRUT CAP -- t=3D0.250" 6061-T6 -- l=3D21 (12 REQ'D) l=3D38 (4 REQ'D)
>
>It looks like for the actual jury struts (3SP), mine indicates 6061. I have also
heard that for the Front and Read Struts, they have changed to streamline 4130
material, but I don't know if that is true.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Keith
>*************************************************************************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jari Kaija
>Sent: Sat 4/8/2006 4:31 AM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130
>
>
>Weird... My drawings 4/06 (SP) doesn't have information of jury struts material.
>Even drawings dated as 2003 doesn't include it. Older CH701 (non SP) uses
>one bended 4130 pipe.
>
>Is it a same 4130N or is it 6061-T6?
>
>
>----------------------------------
>http://www.jarikaija.com
>http://www.project-ch701.net
>
>
>************************************
>This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient
should check this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT
Industries accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted
by this e-mail.
>************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you
have received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that
any views or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of ITT Industries, Inc. The recipient should
check this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT Industries
accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted
by this e-mail.
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: Jury struts 6061-T6 or 4130 |
> 3SP JURY STRUTS -- .500"OD X 0.035" (8 REQ'D) -- 6061-T6 ROUND TUBE
Thanks! Whew... I have enough that pipe already in my garage :-)
----------------------------------
http://www.jarikaija.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
Has anyone installed floats on a 601 taildragger? I am considering
doing so and wondered about how one would attach same.
Trigear is attached to the undercarriage attach points, this won't work
on a tail dragger. At least I can't visualize it. Open to any reasonable
explainations.
alex
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 03/31/06 |
Al, I also would like a copy of your Condition Insoection.
Thanks,
Greg Jannakos
gpjann(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Roy" <savannah174(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | CH-701 Auto Pilot |
Speaking with a sales rep from EZ-PILOT autopilot, I was informed that that there
were installed on CH-701's if that be true could these folks contact me off
line for advise on the system, thank you
RJ
Savannah174(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christian Tremblay <cj.tremblay(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | Countersunk / domed bending rivet in Chris H. aircraft design |
Hi dear Zenith Builders,
I build a CH640 from plan, and wondering with some friends, if the fact to
use countersunk rivets, with a domed head rivet gun, could improve rivet
resilience or adding stress to rivets, when doing this kind of "counter
bending" former process. The other question that I have, is why Chris H.
don't design the aircraft with already existing Avex domed rivet?
Note: The College Design courses of Christ H., in his 2 article dedicated to
rivets, don't give the background reasons for this design. Somebody know
the reasons behind this specific utilization of countersunk rivets? Or is
this something frequent in the aircraft industry?
Thanks a lot for explanation.
http://www.zodiac640.com/
Christian Tremblay
Montreal, QC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk / domed bending rivet in Chris H. aircraft |
design
> The other question that I have, is why Chris H.
> don't design the aircraft with already existing Avex domed rivet?
I'm more than happy, that Chris didn't. I love to build plane,
what is simple enough for everyone and do not require any
stupid (baby face style) working methods. Reasons are many.
If you want plane, what has "baby face" skin, you should
consider other planes or buy (factory made) one.
http://www.jarikaija.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Young" <armyret(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 03/31/06 |
Gregg- Need your address. I'll make you a copy and snail mail it. I don't
have it on my computer.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gpjann(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 03/31/06
>
> Al, I also would like a copy of your Condition Insoection.
> Thanks,
> Greg Jannakos
> gpjann(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <n801za(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone know if there are COM receivers that will let us monitor the new
406mhz ELT frequency, or will it only be monitored by the sattellites? I
see that currently available 406 ELTs transmit on both, but will that be the
case after the changeover in 2009?
Jim Frisby
Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 406 Mhz PLB |
Don't think you would hear much being a digital pulsed signal. Still will
have the old low power 121.5 transmitting continuously to home on. The
digital pulsed signal is the reason that can increase the transmitted power
to 5 watts and have the batteries last so long. Shortly there should be an
article on 406 MHz I wrote for Sport Pilot.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Frisby" <n801za(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: 406 Mhz PLB
>
> Does anyone know if there are COM receivers that will let us monitor the
> new
> 406mhz ELT frequency, or will it only be monitored by the sattellites? I
> see that currently available 406 ELTs transmit on both, but will that be
> the
> case after the changeover in 2009?
>
> Jim Frisby
> Alaska
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk / domed bending rivet in Chris H. aircraft |
design
> I build a CH640 from plan, and wondering with some friends, if the fact to
> use countersunk rivets, with a domed head rivet gun, could improve rivet
> resilience or adding stress to rivets, when doing this kind of "counter
> bending" former process. The other question that I have, is why Chris H.
> don't design the aircraft with already existing Avex domed rivet?
OOOPS! I'm really sorry. I'm was hurry, when I read your message
first time and countersunk/domed messed with my brain, as english is
not my natural language. Yes, you are right about that rivet question.
I'm using domed rivet with my ch701, but not from "Avdel". I think,
and there was a topic about this thing earlier too, that when using
countersunk rivets, rivet itself fills hole much better than domed will.
Reforming rivet from counters. to domed won't hurt rivet so much
either. Just think, what rivet's "pipe"-part have to endure. Very much
more forming than rivet's head. I'm really sorry that I confused these
rivets, since I thought, that you want to build plane with totally smooth
surface!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Harding" <charding(at)houston.rr.com> |
I think I'm fairly near to securing a deal on a nice, lightly used 701. Does anyone
have any suggestions for the best deals in insurance? I'm based in the
USA.
Thanks,
Chris Harding
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27072#27072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
AOPA, best deal I found by quite a margin. They will give you a quote
without you actually being a member, then you can join if the deal looks
good to you.
Frank
601HDS 394 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Harding
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Insurance - 701
-->
I think I'm fairly near to securing a deal on a nice, lightly used 701.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the best deals in insurance? I'm
based in the USA.
Thanks,
Chris Harding
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27072#27072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP |
Christian,
Virtually every engine is suitable for aviation if the application is
correct. The 140 hp on 1.8 Liter suggests
it works pretty hard doing high speed road work in a car. The
difficulty would be putting an ideal gear reduction
on it to obtain a best combination of torque and rpm for a practical
prop. This might restrict the engine to a lighter and or
slower aircraft than you desired. If it did fit an aircraft you were
interested in, then you'd only have to find a way to
put an exhaust, carburetor, ignition and cooling system in place that
will continue to balance output while cooling, feeding and
controlling the decibel level for the engine. The question also gets
into the kind of bearings and crank that will
be exchanging harmonics that may differ from those dampened by a
transmission that were best for a car, but could be
thoroughly destructive with a prop attached. There's only one way to
find out and that's to have at it and work it out.
I'm not an engine guy, but this is where you're at.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS with a Stratus-Ram Subaru at www.macsmachine.com
Christian Tremblay wrote:
>
>Hi,
>Somebody can tell me if this engine is suitable for aviation?
>Mazda engine from MX3 - 6 CYL, 1.8 L. 140HP
>Thanks,
>
>
>
>Christian T.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nyterminat(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance - 701 |
Cost me $1600 through EAA and Falcon. I think I used $45,000 or $40,000 as hull
coverage
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/ CH701/912S
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Harding <charding(at)houston.rr.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Insurance - 701
I think I'm fairly near to securing a deal on a nice, lightly used 701. Does
anyone have any suggestions for the best deals in insurance? I'm based in the
USA.
Thanks,
Chris Harding
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27072#27072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DVanvoorhi(at)aol.com |
I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to
remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now
and take them out with filler after installation?
Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Forced landing in Ohio |
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
-2.0210
I was planning to fly down to Sun 'N' Fun on the first of April in my
Zodiac. The weather that morning in the Detroit area was crappy so I waited
around until noon. At that time there was a 2000 foot overcast with 3000
foot tops and it had quit raining. The weather south of Ohio was reported as
clear so I decided to take off and see. I flew under the Detroit class B at
about 1500 feet and started to see some breaks in the overcast.
An hour into the flight I was just southeast of the Toledo class C when the
engine suddenly started shaking and lost about 600 RPM. I was about 5 miles
north of Wood County Airport (1G0) so I pulled the throttle and started
gliding towards the airport. All my guages were in the green and the engine
stayed running but very rough. When I got down to about 200 feet above the
ground with nothing but plowed fields and a crowded freeway below me I
realized I wasn't going to be able to glide to the airport. The engine was
still making power so I shoved the throttle back in and managed to get about
200 feet per minute climb rate out of it. It was enough to get me lined up
on runway 18 with a 15 knot crosswind directly from the west. I called up
the unicom and anounced my intentions and then made a safe landing.
After I taxied up to the terminal, I shut it down and got out and started
looking for the trouble. Everything looked OK from the outside of the
engine. No oil or coolant leaks and no appearant damage. I didn't have
enough tools with me to do muc troubleshooting so I barrowed the courtesy
car to go down to the store to buy a spark plug wrench. I finally determined
that I had no compression on the number 1 cylinder and when I pulled that
plug, there was impact damage to the electrode. My preliminary determination
was some sort of valve train failure. Since I couldn't do much to fix the
problem right then and it wasn't fit to fly home, I tied it down for the
night and called to reserve a rental car.
The folks at Wood County treated me very well they even offered to put the
plane in a hangar for the night. One of the instructors was giving a lesson
that day and gave me a ride up to Toledo Express Airport so I could pick up
my rental, saving me the expense of a taxi ride.
I drove the rental home that night and the next day drove up to Midland to
get my trailer and my dad and brother to help me recover the airplane. We
then drove down to Bowling Green to tear down the plane for the haul back
home. The people at the airport let me use put the plane in a hangar to
dissasemble it for the trip back. It's a good thing they did, it was pouring
down rain by the time we got done loading in the trailer. We got the plane
back to my hangar at Ray and got the rental returned to the local depot and
got back to Midland at about 2 AM. Monday evening, I decided to use some of
my frequent flyer miles to complete the trip to Lakeland and let the
airplane wait until I got back.
Today I finally got to my hangar to start tearing down the engine to see
what went wrong. I heard stories about valve guide failures in some of the
EA81 engines so I thought I might find the same thing with mine. It turns
out that the problem wasn't the valve guides. A big chunk of the intake
valve in the number 1 cylinder broke off and did mayhem inside the engine.
The piston had a bunch of holes in it and had several cracks clear across
the face of the piston. The piston skirt must also be all broken up because
you can rock the piston back and forth in the cylinder. There also seems to
be some collateral damage to the intake valve in the number 3 cylinder,
probably by bits of metal getting blown back into the intake manifold. Our
resident engine expert took a look at the valve and decided that it was a
fatigue failure possibly caused by a slight misalignment of the valve. There
is some evidence that the valve was hitting harder on one side of the port
than the other. I've put 145 hours on the engiine since I bought from
Stratus.
I plan on pulling off the other head to check it and will probably send both
of them off to RAM for rebuild.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax(at)hotmail.com> |
I had the same problem on my leading edges of my wings. Bill Clapp, Corvair
Aviator and Car Restorer, gently worked them out by flexing the metal with a
small suction cup. After flexing it many times, it came close to being like
new. My leading edges are now polished and look OK.
Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
>From: DVanvoorhi(at)aol.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Smiles
>Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 19:57:07 EDT
>
>
>I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
>maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done
>to
>remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them
>now
>and take them out with filler after installation?
>
>Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Attaching rubber trim to the canopy |
I posted the information below about a year ago, hopefully it remains in the
archives. My 601HDS now has over 230 hours on it and the rubber trim remains
securely attached in all places. This method is certainly long-term reliable and
I
think it's by far the easiest way to glue the rubber trim to the canopy.
++ The magic bullet for attaching rubber to the canopy is a product called "Poly
Zap" made by Pacer Technology. It is very specialized instant glue for adhering
the
slippery plastics together like Nylon, Delran, etc. Because is specialized you
may
not find it on the shelf at your local hobby shop, but you can easily find and
buy
it on-line. Application is so simple you essentially can't mess up if you just
take
your time. Most people think they have to spread a continuous amount of glue from
one end to the other under the rubber and at the same time keep things lined up
and
worry about glue oozing out. Nope... just put the rubber strip in place where
it's
supposed to be on the canopy, then lift the edge of the rubber up at one end and
place a small dot (about 1/8" in size, doesn't take much) about half way down the
depth of the rubber seal and let the rubber gently come back in contact with the
canopy. When that end is "tacked", move to the other end, pull the slack out of
the rubber and tack that end. Now it's held in place. Then, go to the middle,
half
way between the two glue dots, lift the rubber up at that point and place another
dot down in there. Then do it again between that middle dot and each of the end
dots and so on, and so on until you have these dots applied about every 3 or 4
inches. Do the same on the inside edge of the canopy and it's done. This type
of
instant glue has a shorter shelf life than some of the others so keep it in a
plastic bag in the refrigerator and it will remain good to use for a long time.
My
aircraft has been flying for 4 years now and NOT ONE of those glue dots has let
go.
Tail winds..... Fred Hulen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
Dirk,
I'd consider tracing it to another piece and make another at this point
if you've not attached it.
Another consideration, you might want to make the forward top skin
removable for access to your
panel etc. As scratch builder, you've an advantage in deciding these
things. I've got most of the detail
covered on my website that shows how it's done. The FW top skin has
been off a good number of times
since the Airworthiness and paid its value the first time it had to come
off.
If you need more info on this just ask.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
DVanvoorhi(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I mishandled the nose skin on my 601 HD and generated several "smiles" (or
>maybe they should be called "frowns"). Is there anything that can be done to
>remove them before installing the piece? Is it better to live with them now
>and take them out with filler after installation?
>
>Dirk Van Voorhis (scratch building in Riverside CA)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "peter kleinjan" <pkleinjan(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
I agree, a simple order of solid rivets is taking 3 weeks to ship? no more
aircraft spruce for me!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
Maybe it is just luck of the draw. I have been getting excellent
service from Aircraft Spruce. They always ship the same day I order,
and usually have everything I want in stock.
I guess different folks get different experiences.
Paul
XL wings
At 06:28 AM 4/10/2006, you wrote:
>The last few orders from Aircraft Spruce I placed got
>sooooooooooooooooo screwed up I really wanted to wring their
>necks,,Of course when I called to complain they tried to spin it
>around to look like it was a simple mistake on their part and "I
>need them" and not" they need us". What they really need is a
>BOYCOTT on sales. They are so arrogent now ,Jim Irwin , the owner
>probably won't even get it though. Oh yeah... I want this archived too.
>
>Ben Ha
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Bing Carb Type 64 adjustments INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 |
-2.0210
Hi guys,
The necessity of changing jets can be a stress raiser if you've not done
it before, but I've made most of the mistakes and can finally comment
that theres little to worry about, but there are a few things that make
the job safer and easier for Bing Type 64 carburetors.
Disassembly can be done right on the engine and should not be a problem
with the Stratus Subaru setup. Fuel valves should be shut off. You do
need a Bing Manual the first time or so as it offers very specific
guidance on everything.
Air filters are removed and the intake tube opening covered with a shop
rag to prevent dropping anything into the intake. Then the throttle
cables and enrichment (choke) cable lugs need to be disconnected.
Rotating the enrichment lever against the spring allows removing the lug
and cable. The throttle cable bracket is disconnected at one end to
allow it to be pivoted from over the enrichment return spring. The
spring is disconnected and set aside. Two large Phillips top cover
screws are removed. Anything that would prevent lifting the cover
vertically a couple of inches should be removed.
The throttle is closed to prevent anything from dropping into the
intake. The cap, jet needle housing, diaphragm and large spring are
lifted off and rotated out of the way. The large spring and jet needle
housing is set aside. Note the jet protruding inside the bottom of the
carburetor body.
The jet needle is accessible only after a large blade screwdriver is
used to unscrew the threaded retainer from within the topside of the
tube. Using too small a screwdriver can easily damage the retainer slot
and make it non removable, so grind a large one down to fit inside the
tube if necessary. Remove the needle and adjust the circlip as
necessary. Note the jet needle identity size by counting the rings, not
the notches for the circlip.
The lower fuel float reservoir spring is pivoted to the rear and up
enough to allow the reservoir and floats to be lowered, removed and set
aside.
Before removing the main jet and mid-range jets, take a 6-inch piece of
.020 stainless safety wire and insert it down thru the opening of the
jets allowing 2-inches to protrude out the bottom. Bend the wire to
prevent loosing the small jets as they are removed. The main jet is
removed first. Take note of the size of the main jet and set it aside.
The mid-range jet is removed second and all successive parts are removed
on the wire to keep them from dropping out of sight. Sizes are only
found stamped on the main and mid-range jets. Make changes as needed and
take note of the arrangement of the jets shown on the Bing exploded view
to be sure that the jets are reassembled in proper order.
For reverse assembly, be careful to not stub the jet body end going back
into the carburetor body. Be careful to not damage the reservoir gasket
on reassembly. Be careful about alignment of the diaphragm key,
alignment of the jet needle, the enrichment lug, and final throttle
cable position etc.
Small wrenches used to remove the jets and throttle nuts are 8mm, 9mm
and 10mm combination open and closed end. These are easily purchased as
a set of small ignition wrenches in a plastic envelope from Sears. If
you do drop a 10mm nut into the intake as I did once, you can remove it
with a high-powered vacuum sweeper by opening the intake valves one side
at a time with the spark plug removed while rotating the engine slowly
by hand. Just dont make that mistake!
Have a good day.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Smiles. now aircraft spruce |
>
> Maybe it is just luck of the draw. I have been getting excellent
> service from Aircraft Spruce.
Me too...... I haven't had much trouble with orders, shipping or availability over
the last three years of doing business with them. Other mail and online order
places seem to be about the same too. Just one of those "who knows?" things
I guess.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
| From: | "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh(at)HODGES.INFO> |
Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the ailerons (flex
hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence manual now where its
trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they will be stored for a while,
I'm wondering if I should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems
like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage. Anyone
have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
Mitch Hodges
Powder Springs, GA
N601MH (601HDS)
Rudder Done
Ailerons Done
Right Wing 99.999% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27374#27374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
That's one reason the hinged ailerons have an avantage...You just pull
out the pins to remove the alerons...This was very useful when I had to
unzip the nose skin to pull out the LE tank to repair a leak.
Anyway, Personally I would leave a few clecoes in and assemble at the
airport.
Frank
Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the
ailerons (flex hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence
manual now where its trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they
will be stored for a while, I'm wondering if I should not hold off until
later in the assembly. Just seems like attached there is a good chance
they'll get bent in storage. Anyone have thoughts one way or the
other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
If you don't attach them now a good way to protect the exposed edges where
the "hinge" will go is the split, hollow foam tubes sold to insulate water
pipes.
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
I think holding off is a good idea considering that you can cleco them in place
anytime you need to. I'm reserving that same opotion for my elevator hinge. It's
rivetted to the elevator but only clecoed to the stabilizer.
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL wings
>
> Just seems like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage.
Anyone have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they
had not?
>
> I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
>
> Mitch Hodges
> Powder Springs, GA
> N601MH (601HDS)
> Rudder Done
> Ailerons Done
> Right Wing 99.999% complete
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27374#27374
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
Mitch,
I left the ailerons on the ceiling storage racks until they were ready
to move to the airport. I made racks
that enabled storage of the wings without ailerons on long blocks of
foam for the leading edge etc.
When they were ready to go to the airport, I riveted the ailerons in
place on the rack and put it all
on the trailer. Worked very well and the racks will serve moving the
wings home again for paint.
See links below,
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/winghandling/full/overhead-wing-stowage.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/HScentersection/full/wg2rack2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/hscentersection/full/zenith-to-airport.jpg
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Mitch Hodges wrote:
>
>Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the ailerons (flex
hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the sequence manual now where its
trimmed, fitted and ready to attach, but given they will be stored for a while,
I'm wondering if I should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems
like attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in storage. Anyone
have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one way, and wish they had not?
>
>I know in the end its probably "builder's choice", and I'm leaning towards holding
off until there are critical measurements required.
>
>Mitch Hodges
>Powder Springs, GA
>N601MH (601HDS)
>Rudder Done
>Ailerons Done
>Right Wing 99.999% complete
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
| From: | "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh(at)HODGES.INFO> |
>That's one reason the hinged ailerons have an avantage...You just pull
out the pins to remove the alerons
I did think of that as I was trying to decide what to do. 8
)
Thanks to all that replied, as usual the common sense answer appears to be correct.
Also, (Craig) great idea on the pipe insulation "protectors". I just happen to
have some in the "too valuable to throw away, no real need for them now" pile
just looking for an excuse to be used.
Mitch Hodges
--------
N601MH (Zenith 601HDS)
Wings Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27395#27395
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MR M VITA" <n81lv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Engine air filter |
I have a 601HD with a 3300 engine.I do not have FWF kit.Has anyone used a K&N conical
air filter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
Here's one for y'all-
Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual says "Maintain
safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the 2x diameter rivet
distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information I can find that gives
the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No problem centering the hole to
the slide flange, it's the ground side end I'm wondering about.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt spacing |
Bill,
Once you've placed the box on the angles, mark centerlines so that for
A3 bolts,
you've enough distance to avoid the nut being drawn down on the inside
radius of the angle.
Ink mark the angle edge and check the nut for good position before
laying down centerlines on the box. Then
place the box back on the angles, match mark and remove to carefully
drill the holes in the box. Then match mark
and drill the angles. Once you've drilled two holes each side
successfully, put a bolt thru and drill the rest. The most difficult
were the holes that match thru the reinforcing angle, box and guide angles.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-support-brackets-fitti.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gfairingbrackets.gif
Assembly is the most fun though, putting the nuts on from the inside :-) .
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/gearAW/full/gear-support-nut-holding-wr.gif
If the A3 holes aren't capable of having a 2x edge distance, center the
holes on the short sides of the angles anyway.
Larry
Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
>Here's one for y'all-
> Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual says "Maintain
safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the 2x diameter rivet
distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information I can find that gives
the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No problem centering the hole to
the slide flange, it's the ground side end I'm wondering about.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ribb" <dan(at)danribb.com> |
| Subject: | 601 XL available? |
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt spacing |
Larry-
I wasn't worried about the placement on the width of the slides, more
the distance to the end. I laid everything out, but haven't drilled anything
yet. Suppose I better take another look tomorrow.
Thanks.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bolt spacing
>
> Bill,
> Once you've placed the box on the angles, mark centerlines so that for
> A3 bolts,
> you've enough distance to avoid the nut being drawn down on the inside
> radius of the angle.
> Ink mark the angle edge and check the nut for good position before
> laying down centerlines on the box. Then
> place the box back on the angles, match mark and remove to carefully
> drill the holes in the box. Then match mark
> and drill the angles. Once you've drilled two holes each side
> successfully, put a bolt thru and drill the rest. The most difficult
> were the holes that match thru the reinforcing angle, box and guide
> angles.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gear-support-brackets-fitti.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/gear/full/gfairingbrackets.gif
> Assembly is the most fun though, putting the nuts on from the inside :-) .
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/TJH/gearAW/full/gear-support-nut-holding-wr.gif
> If the A3 holes aren't capable of having a 2x edge distance, center the
> holes on the short sides of the angles anyway.
>
> Larry
>
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
>>
>>Here's one for y'all-
>> Getting ready to drill the gear box/slide holes for my HDS. Manual
>> says "Maintain safe edge distance". Doesn't look like I can hold to the
>> 2x diameter rivet distance with a 3/16" bolt, and there's no information
>> I can find that gives the edge distance calculation for a bolt. No
>> problem centering the hole to the slide flange, it's the ground side end
>> I'm wondering about.
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daniel Vandenberg <djvdb63(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL available? |
There is one here...I believe built by Art Mitchell in Canada:
http://www.aso.com/aircraft/97933/
DJV
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
I went ahead and riveted my hinge-less aileron before finishing the
wing. However, I did not rivet the flaps since the instructions said
to wait until fitted to the fuselage. I am building an XL so the
issues may be very different from the HDS.
If you want to store the wing after the aileron is installed you can
immobilize it with a couple of strips of wood laid across the hinge
and held in place with duct tape.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
>>Trying to get a feel from the group as to when they attached the
>>ailerons (flex hinge) to the wings. I'm at the point in the
>>sequence manual now where its trimmed, fitted and ready to attach,
>>but given they will be stored for a while, I'm wondering if I
>>should not hold off until later in the assembly. Just seems like
>>attached there is a good chance they'll get bent in
>>storage. Anyone have thoughts one way or the other, or did it one
>>way, and wish they had not?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "noel anderson" <nandrand(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi Dan. It may not be any use to you, but there is a brand new Czech built CH601XL
for sale in New Zealand at NZ$69,000. The guy's name is Paul Muller Ph. No.
0064 6 7550077. I assume it came to NZ in a container, it could leave in the
same way!!!! Regards NOEL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Pizer" <rjp(at)pizer.org> |
| Subject: | 601 XL available? |
Hi Dan, I have a Czech built CH601XL one for sale in Sacramento CA. 140
hours fully loaded and fly's good. The owner could not get a sport pilot
license because he lost his medical. $ 59,500 Ron 775-240-5378 do not
archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ribb
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 XL available?
I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
Anybody know of anything out there available?
- Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Does anyone have pictures from Sun-N-Fun? |
| From: | "John Hines" <John.Hines(at)craftontull.com> |
Does anyone have pictures from Sun-N-Fun posted on their web site yet?
John Hines
www.johnsplane.com
John Hines
IT Manager
Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc.
901 N. 47th Street, Suite 200
Rogers, AR 72756
Direct: 479-878-2449
Mobile: 479-366-4783
Phone: 479-636-4838
Fax: 479-631-6224
John.Hines(at)craftontull.com
Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc. exists to anticipate and understand the needs
of our clients and provide them with successful solutions.
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.. If you
have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message
contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual
named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute
or copy this e-mail. Please notify the sender immediately by e-mail if you
have received this e-mail by mistake and delete this e-mail from your system.
If you are not the intended recipient you are notified that disclosing, copying,
distributing or taking any action in reliance on the contents of this information
is strictly prohibited.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: When to attach Ailerons |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I would go ahead and install them for a couple of reasons. I think there is as
much chance to damage them seperately as there is to damage them when they are
on the wing. My philosophy when building was to get as much done at home as I
could. I don't know what your setup at the airport will be like, but any tools
I needed to work with at the airport I had to truck back and forth everytime
I went, and it's really a drag when you get to the airport and realize you don't
have something you need. Work also procedes slower at the airport because
it is inconvenient. Taking your bird to the airport puts you into the "almost
ready to fly" mental state, which tends to burn you out if you have 6 more months
of work to do once you get it there.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27559#27559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy Mathis <tallow_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: Aluminum/Aircraft Spruce |
Hey Guys:
I have bought aluminum from Airparts and it has always
been cheaper and it was packaged quite well. All of
the Bearhawk builders buy from them.
WWW.airpartsinc.com
Fax 913-831-6797
1-800-800-3229
Jimmy Mathis 601XL
--- Zenith-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy Mathis <tallow_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: Aluminum/Aircraft Spruce |
Hey Guys:
I have bought aluminum from Airparts and it has always
been cheaper and it was packaged quite well. All of
the Bearhawk builders buy from them.
WWW.airpartsinc.com
Fax 913-831-6797
1-800-800-3229
Jimmy Mathis 601XL
--- Zenith-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Schoenberger" <hrs1(at)frontiernet.net> |
List . . . I have the 2004 Archive CD which was a bonus with an annual donation.
I tried to use it for the first time this morning, and I can't seem to open
and search the zenith files. Is there any secret? Thanks for your help. Robert
701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jim(at)pellien.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL available? |
Dan,
I have a used 2005 Certified ELSA on consignment for sale for $69,000. It has about 200 hours on it. See my website: www.MASPL.com for pictures and specifications. It is in beautiful shape. It can be used for commercial training through Jan 31st 2010.
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Center of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
Jim(at)Pellien.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Dan Ribb" <dan(at)danribb.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 17:37:35 -0700
>
>I have a friend looking to buy a flying or nearly ready to fly 601 XL.
>Anybody know of anything out there available?
>
> - Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at mail.pellien.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
At 08:50 AM 4/11/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>List . . . I have the 2004 Archive CD which was a bonus with an annual donation.
I tried to use it for the first time this morning, and I can't seem to open
and search the zenith files. Is there any secret? Thanks for your help. Robert
701
Robert,
Are you using correct version of the CD that matches your OS? There are two discs,
one for Windows 95/98/ME/NT and another disc for Windows 2000 and XP. The
two discs differ only in the format of the pre-compiled index file for the search
engine. There is a subtle difference between the two sets of OSs mentioned
above that require a differently formatted index.
What specifically is the error message you are receiving?
If the correct disc doesn't solve your problem, drop me an email directly at dralle(at)matronics.com
and we'll see about getting you a replacement disc set.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David main <chief1946_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello group,
I am thinking about sell my continental c-90-8 with
engine mount,new warpdrive prop,and new engine
intruments.(4 in 1 cht,oil temp,oil pressure,and
rpm/tach gauge) engine runs fine and is currently on
my 701 project. The reason I may sell is to finish
funding my project. I have pictures also. If
interested please e-mail me off the group or feel free
to call me @ 252-975-7978. David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Page <webmaster(at)upac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Does anyone have pictures from Sun-N-Fun? |
John, I don't have many but a few are on mine here:
http://pagefamily.homeunix.org/picture_album/
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Apr 11, 2006, at 7:19 AM, John Hines wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have pictures from Sun-N-Fun posted on their web site yet?
>
> John Hines
> www.johnsplane.com
>
>
> John Hines
> IT Manager
> Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc.
> 901 N. 47th Street, Suite 200
> Rogers, AR 72756
> Direct: 479-878-2449
> Mobile: 479-366-4783
> Phone: 479-636-4838
> Fax: 479-631-6224
> John.Hines(at)craftontull.com
>
> Crafton, Tull & Associates, Inc. exists to anticipate and
> understand the needs of our clients and provide them with
> successful solutions.
>
> This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
> intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom
> they are addressed.. If you have received this email in error
> please notify the system manager. This message contains
> confidential information and is intended only for the individual
> named. If you are not the named addressee you should not
> disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. Please notify the
> sender immediately by e-mail if you have received this e-mail by
> mistake and delete this e-mail from your system. If you are not the
> intended recipient you are notified that disclosing, copying,
> distributing or taking any action in reliance on the contents of
> this information is strictly prohibited.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gord O'Donnell" <gordo(at)xplornet.com> |
Alex, Grove Aircraft makes a spring gear for the ch601, I dont know alot about the taildragger but you may be able to install the spring gear which would provide you a better platform to mount the floats. If you wantamphibs the latest floats from czech have 4 wheel versions eliminating the need to install the nose wheel.Just a thought ... www.groveaircraft.com C-FXZI on amphibs
Gord O'Donnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Flap actuator travel |
I want to connect a Ray Allen position sensor to my 601XL's flap actuator to
drive the indicator on the panel. Looking at the actuator and linkage to the
flaps I am guessing the actuator will move farther than the range of travel
of Ray Allen's "longest" sensor. So I expect I'll have to cobble up some
linkage to reduce the travel the sensor "sees". How far does the actuator
move in a "typical" XL? The distance between the rollers of the two limit
switches would get me started.
Or does someone have a more clever scheme?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Russell <clojan(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator travel |
I thought about the indicator but decided that the cheapest way was to just look
out the window at the flaps. As far as the sensor, I suspect that you could
mount it anywhere along the actuator arm to the back of the seat frame creating
whatever range was required by the sensor. Jack in Los Osos Ca
P.s. Faa has finally scheduled a inspection next week after several months of
delay. ya hoo!
Craig Payne wrote:
I want to connect a Ray Allen position sensor to my 601XL's flap actuator to
drive the indicator on the panel. Looking at the actuator and linkage to the
flaps I am guessing the actuator will move farther than the range of travel
of Ray Allen's "longest" sensor. So I expect I'll have to cobble up some
linkage to reduce the travel the sensor "sees". How far does the actuator
move in a "typical" XL? The distance between the rollers of the two limit
switches would get me started.
Or does someone have a more clever scheme?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george may" <gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flap actuator travel |
Craig--
I've installed the sensor on my XL. No need to cobble anything together.
You will have to fabricate a small mount for the sensor and then just pick a
position
along the vertical flap arm which coincides with the travel of the sensor
arm.
A little trial and error and it works fine. I attached mine with a R/C
clevis
and threaded rod. Let me know if you need pictures.
George May
601XL 912s
>From: "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Zenith-List: Flap actuator travel
>Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 13:36:45 -0600
>
>
>I want to connect a Ray Allen position sensor to my 601XL's flap actuator
>to
>drive the indicator on the panel. Looking at the actuator and linkage to
>the
>flaps I am guessing the actuator will move farther than the range of travel
>of Ray Allen's "longest" sensor. So I expect I'll have to cobble up some
>linkage to reduce the travel the sensor "sees". How far does the actuator
>move in a "typical" XL? The distance between the rollers of the two limit
>switches would get me started.
>
>Or does someone have a more clever scheme?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Ricks" <allenricks(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Access panel and wing lockers... |
Dear fellow listers...
I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.
1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
and file, or any other
great method.
2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.
I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
Thanks.
Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
Allen,
Don't use any power equipment. These are best done by hand. If you
need to cut a circle type
hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a
drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside,
manually pull the tool like a compass
in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk
virtually drops into your hand. This
is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your
luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a
hole with a step drill a couple of
inches inside of the line. Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand
shears, right or left hand and work
the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth
inch. Then proceed to cut on the
inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file
the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any
outside the perimeter of the hole you
intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good
job. See links below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif
If you have further questions, just ask.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Allen Ricks wrote:
>
>Dear fellow listers...
>
>I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.
>
>1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
> inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
>and file, or any other
> great method.
>
>2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
> advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
> Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
> too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.
>
>I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
>rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Allen Ricks
>Beaverton, OR.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
Two words.. Olfa Knife
http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm
It is the best thing for straight cuts like the one
needed for the wing lockers.
William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
--- Allen Ricks wrote:
>
>
> Dear fellow listers...
>
> I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.
> Two questions.
>
> 1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice
> for cutting the
> inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck
> with a hole saw vs. drill
> and file, or any other
> great method.
>
> 2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker
> option. Again, any great
> advice here. I do have a hand held high speed
> air cutting wheel.
> Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the
> metal
> too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other
> advice or tips.
>
> I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.
> They are ready to
> rivet in place once I have accomplished the above
> two tasks.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Allen Ricks
> Beaverton, OR.
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
protection around
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Ricks" <allenricks(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Access panel and wing lockers...
Allen-
Drill access holes in the corners, duct tape over top of the skin to
within 1/8" of your line. Use an appropriate metal cutting blade in a good
saber saw to cut close to the line. (Mine is a variable speed Skil). Touch
up with a mill bastard file.
Alternative, if you haven't already permanently attached the skins, is
to use an Olfa knife. Just getting around to trying it- looks real clean in
the HomebuiltHelp DVD.
Bill
>
> 2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
> advice here.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Access panel and wing lockers... |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
For the baggage holes I had rapid success with a jigsaw...Tape the skins
with masking tape so the foot of the saw won't scratch...Then let it
rip...Now don't try to cut up to the edges of the hole with a saw,
grinding wheel or anything else that is "hi speed"...simply cut to
within 3/8ths" minimum and finish off with tin snips.
This mthod has them cut in no time flat!
Frank
601HDS 395 hours...fresh BFR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allen Ricks
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Access panel and wing lockers...
-->
Dear fellow listers...
I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.
1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs.
drill and file, or any other
great method.
2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any
great
advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.
I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
Thanks.
Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
Hi Allen,
It seems like there are as many ways to cut holes in wing skins as
there are builders doing it. Let me add my method to the list of alternatives.
First I mark exactly the shape I want in the finished hole with a
felt tip (permanent) marker. This often requires making a pattern
from 1/8 inch plywood or similar material and just tracing the
outline. In the case of an inspection hole, I mark the centerline
and endpoints of the oval shape on the wing and then use my full size
pattern with matching centerline marks to locate and draw the outline
on the skin.
To get the actual hole I use what I call my "Sneaking up"
method. This method works for everything from forming nearly perfect
inspection holes to machining parts on a lathe or shoving dirt and
gravel around with a tractor. In the wing skin case, I start by
making a nice hole with a step drill somewhere inside the marked
pattern. This hole winds up being 3/4 inch or so and is large enough
to allow tin snips to start cutting toward the final outline. Next I
make as many repeated passes as necessary with the snips removing
metal from the hole. Depending on the shape needed, I stop using the
snips when I am around 1/4 inch from the final mark to right on the
line for a straight portion of the outline. Then I move to hand
files and sometimes a Dremel tool with a triangular (conical?) rotary
file to work ever closer to the final line. I like the triangular
shape because I can choose to use the small radius portion for slow
cutting or move to larger radius portion for faster metal removal. A
rat tail file is great for forming relatively small radius areas like
a rounded inside corner.
For an actual inspection plate, I start by making the plate
itself. I drill pilot holes where the final screws will go. After
finding the correct position for the plate, I attach it to the skin
with duct tape and drill through the holes to get perfect matches for
the holes in the skin. Clecos are handy for this process too. The
actual inspection hole is then marked inside the screw holes and the
metal is removed. Meanwhile the screw holes are opened up to the
required size for the screws and nut plates installed on the
inspection plate. (I set the solid rivets using a 1 ton arbor press
I have had around the shop for a long time.) After creating the
inspection hole, the screw holes are enlarged. To install the
inspection plate I like to attach a temporary handle with duct tape
rolled into a circle to make double stick duct tape. That is used to
hold a block of wood onto the plate to position it for the
screws. After the screws are installed the temporary handle comes right off.
After reaching the marked outline, it is time to finish the edge of
metal. I do this with smooth files of appropriate shape. The half
round shape seems to be the best for most uses. Final finish can be
done with the files or a few passes with extra fine grit sandpaper or
emery cloth will make a very smooth edge that won't cut you or one of
your many girlfriends while they are stowing baggage for the weekend
in the wilderness.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
At 04:28 PM 4/12/2006, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
> inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
>and file, or any other
> great method.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: driving a flycutter -preferable a dual fly-cutter |
> "one who just have cut altogether 45 holes for just 9
> panel instruments"
Max! What the heck you are doing with your tools?
Okay, I use single knife version only for holes below 35mm.
Every other holes are done with two knifes hole cutter.
All holes maded without any mistakes. Oh, yes. never use
mains powered tools with these cutters either. Those toys
has too much power to ruin everything!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Two questions for you Larry.
First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing
lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them.
I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner
or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.
Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them
and if so where?
GigG
larry(at)macsmachine.com wrote:
> Allen,
> Don't use any power equipment. These are best done by hand. If you
> need to cut a circle type
> hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a
> drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
> fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside,
> manually pull the tool like a compass
> in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk
> virtually drops into your hand. This
> is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your
> luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
>
> On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a
> hole with a step drill a couple of
> inches inside of the line. Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand
> shears, right or left hand and work
> the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth
> inch. Then proceed to cut on the
> inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file
> the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
> This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any
> outside the perimeter of the hole you
> intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good
> job. See links below.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif
>
> If you have further questions, just ask.
> Good luck,
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Allen Ricks wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dear fellow listers...
> >
> > I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. Two questions.
> >
> > 1. Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
> > inspection panels out. Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
> > and file, or any other
> > great method.
> >
> > 2. I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option. Again, any great
> > advice here. I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
> > Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
> > too much? Can you keep it straight? Any other advice or tips.
> >
> > I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point. They are ready to
> > rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Allen Ricks
> > Beaverton, OR.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28135#28135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder aerodynamics |
| From: | ray.stlaurent(at)vsea.com |
I?m mounting the tail on my 701 and am wondering about the bottom edge of
the rudder above the rear fin. Since the bottom is not flush with the
rudder skin it would make a scoop whenever the rudder was not centered. I
was thinking of riveting a skin over the area to make it more aerodynamic
then realized that if Chris thought it was important he would have changed
it. Anybody else wonder about that?
- Ray St-Laurent
701/Pegasus wings/Suzuki
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: driving a flycutter -preferable a dual fly-cutter |
> flycutter on the drill press...
"Drill press". The magic word! I haven't that kind of
machine, since my workshop is a way too small for it.
Handheld battery (accu) powered works fine too.
Normally their rpm is slow enough with reasonable power
and most of them has adjustable friction lock, what helps
a lott, when knife stopped suddenly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon" <cscsail(at)gmavt.net> |
| Subject: | driving a flycutter |
I was concerned that I could really screw up a perfectly good chunk of aluminum
with a flycutter. I used a flycutter or hole saw to make plywood templates. I
then used a hand held Riobi battery powered laminate trimmer with a 1/2" router
bit and top bearing that would run around the inside of the template. Makes
very clean perfect holes and shapes.
Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: driving a flycutter -preferable a dual fly-cutter |
Cutting & Shaping
In a previous post, some said there are several ways to do it, I certainly
agree. What worked best for me is a unibit for the corners and a Dremel with
a cut off wheel for straight cuts, works great and is very easy to control.
I have also used the Dremel drum type sanding wheels to smooth and finish
the transition from straight to the radius. I consider the Dremel to be one
of the most versital tools I have. I also use the fly cutter for large round
holes at very low RPM, in some cases I drill the hole under power and turn
the fly cutter by hand to finish the hole, it is really easy to do.
Clyde Barcus
601XL, Corvair Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: driving a flycutter -preferable a dual fly-cutter
>
>> flycutter on the drill press...
>
> "Drill press". The magic word! I haven't that kind of
> machine, since my workshop is a way too small for it.
> Handheld battery (accu) powered works fine too.
> Normally their rpm is slow enough with reasonable power
> and most of them has adjustable friction lock, what helps
> a lott, when knife stopped suddenly.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ GREENWAY" <kylepilot(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 04/12/06 |
how can a make a post? do I have to be a member?
thanks,
russ greenway
LaGrange, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers... |
Gig,
I used Dzus fasteners have been illustrated for the installation in the
2006 Aircraft Spruce Catalog
on page 105. The problem with Dzus components is picking the right
sizes. See the following links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzustools.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusdimples.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusspring.gif
The links show a Dzus tool set, the dimpled set of holes that are needed
and the back side
of the installed Dzus spring. I use A4 rivets to secure the springs.
Dimple the material for the head
and use the flat surface on the pop riveter to secure. Dzus springs are
S4-225s. The Dzus studs are
S4 (1/4-inch) and are -50 length. The Dzus grommets are GB4B.
You need a set of dimpling dies that can be pulled with your pop riveter.
I had to make a similar dimpler for the large stud holes to dimple them too.
You need to make a steel drill template to allow marking and drilling
accurate holes
for the springs and Dzus studs. The holes for the studs should be
5/16-inch and the
holes for the rivets are 1/8-inch. You need to make a shim to adjust
the springs to the correct
height from a smooth surface for uniformity. The installed spring needs
to be centered across
the stud hole accurately and can be done visually. All spring height
and centering adjustments can be
made by hand with two pair of pliers.
Also, you want to install the springs in a manner that leaves the slot
aligned with the wind or uniform to
the rest of the installed studs.
Now, as you progress in making or obtaining these parts and making the
tools, don't just start on your
airplane. Make a test sample installation on one or two sample patches
of aluminum. When you're satisfied
that the installed Dzus pieces are done correctly, then start on your
luggage area. I prefer the Dzus fasteners
to the newer components because they're simpler. If you aren't
satisfied with the fit, you drill out the rivets as
you would for any other redo and salvage the springs. You might need to
tighten the spring for the rivet or not
but I've not had any come loose since they were installed.
The spiders for the inspection plates are of my own design. The spiders
have half an inch overlap on the inspection
holes. The centers are held by an 8-32 screw in a rivnut. The .040
inspection plates were spun in a lathe to remove half an inch
of material thickness or .015 so the plate stays centered in the hole
and the spider is adjusted to a consistent
height that snugs the plate and won't let go. You should try making
one. They're not really hard to do. If you need
to put one forward of the spar underneath, I recommend you add a leading
edge screw and tinnerman for security.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/spiders.jpg
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
Good luck,
Larry McFarland- 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Gig Giacona wrote:
>
>Two questions for you Larry.
>
>First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing
lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them.
I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner
or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.
>
>Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them
and if so where?
>
>GigG
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Goodings" <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Access panel and wing lockers |
I made wooden handles for one end of hacksaw blades - both the 10" long x
1/2" wide ones (for straight cuts), and also the 6" long x 1/4" wide ones
(for curved cuts). They don't distort the edge of the cut like snips do.
The bigger blades are easy and quick to use. The small blades are a bit
tedious.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, 97 hours, Toronto/Waterloo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
For anyone that has finished the trim tab on their 801, I have a question. I have
gone over and over this. I drilled the bottom skin and through the hinge without
going through the top skin. I put one rivet in. This doesn't look right.
The rivet holds the skin open, plus it will be constantly rubbing against it.
Does anyone know if this is correct. I don't see why I can't just drill through
the whole thing and rivet it completely. Any suggestions? I guess I should
call ZAC tomorrow, but I wanted to finish it tonight.
Dave in Salem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Pellien" <jim(at)pellien.com> |
| Subject: | MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over $12,000 |
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes is selling its 2005 Zenair 601XL SLSA
Demonstration Aircraft (N601VA , highlighted in a number of different
aviation magazines and also in Popular Mechanics Magazine in the April 2006
issue).
Save over $12,000 off the new price. Only has been used for 300 flight
hours. Meticulously maintained and Inspected every 50 hours. Will deliver
anyplace within 1000 miles of Washington, DC for FREE. We will delivery
anytime after our new airplane arrives on May 29th. This aircraft, because
it has been certified as an SLSA, can be used for commercial flight
training and commercial rentals.
EQUIPPED WITH:
Air Speed Indicator
Altimeter
Vertical Speed Indicator
Engine Instruments
Hobbs Meter
Dual control sticks with PTT and Electric Aileron and Elevator Trim *****
Extra Cost Option
Aluminum HD Gear System with 5.00X5 wheels
Tinted Canopy with Lock
Dual Toe Brakes
Electric Flap Control
Electric Elevator Trim with Indicator (button control on stick)
Electric Aileron Trim with Indicator (button control on stick)
Cabin Heat
Two Color Paint Upgrade ***** Extra Cost Option
Wing Lockers L+R wings
Vertical Card Compass Upgrade ***** Extra Cost Option
Garmin GTX 327 Transponder (with AK-350 encoder & antenna) ***** Extra
Cost Option
Garmin GNC-250XL Communications and GPS ***** Extra Cost Option
Intercom PS Engineering PM 1000 ***** Extra Cost Option
ELT AK 450 ***** Extra Cost Option
Strobe Lights ***** Extra Cost Option
Navigation Lights ***** Extra Cost Option
Landing Light ***** Extra Cost Option
Lighted Panel ***** Extra Cost Option
Cabin Cover ***** Extra Cost Option
Leather Seats ***** Extra Cost Option
Regular Price: $91,506
Selling Price: $79,000
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
________________________________________________________________________________
Cc: Stanley Challgren
| From: | Stanley Challgren <challgren(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealer |
List:
We previously built a 601 HDS and our EAA technical advisor strongly
recommended we seal our tanks before installing them. We got
Randolph Products #912 sloshing compound from Aircraft Spruce and
sloshed all four tanks. While we never had any fuel leaks in the
four + years we flew the aircraft I am now wondering if it is
necessary with the Zenair tanks as they seem to be very
professionally done.
I am working on the right wing now and installation of the tank is
close at hand. I am wondering what the experience has been with
those who have installed Zenair tanks. I would appreciate
information on those who have installed Zenair built tanks and if any
fuel leaks have developed; and, if so, what might have been the
problem. If you have installed their tanks and did not slosh them;
have you had any problems with them? How long installed, and number
of hours flown would be very helpful.
One other question is prompted by the April 2006 EAA Sport Pilot
Magazine. On page 30 of the article on the RANS S-7LS there is a
picture of the sight gauge for their 9-gallon tank. I have also
noted that the Aviat Husky has a sight gauge. I was always thankful
we had a sight gauge on our HDS and would like to do the same on the
wing tanks of my 701. Has any one used a sight gauge on their 701;
and, if so, how was it installed?
Thanking you in advance for your responses.
Stan Challgren
701/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealer |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I had a leak in a 601 wing tank at around 200 hours...Too sharp a bend
on the flange that was welded and it cracked.
I also know of an aircraft that made a forced landing in a field due to
sloshing compound...It made dangly strings which hardened and broke off
in flight plugging the fuel filters.
Frank
601HDS 395 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stanley
Challgren
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 8:51 PM
Cc: Stanley Challgren
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel Tank Sealer
List:
We previously built a 601 HDS and our EAA technical advisor strongly
recommended we seal our tanks before installing them. We got Randolph
Products #912 sloshing compound from Aircraft Spruce and sloshed all
four tanks. While we never had any fuel leaks in the four + years we
flew the aircraft I am now wondering if it is necessary with the Zenair
tanks as they seem to be very professionally done.
I am working on the right wing now and installation of the tank is close
at hand. I am wondering what the experience has been with those who
have installed Zenair tanks. I would appreciate information on those
who have installed Zenair built tanks and if any fuel leaks have
developed; and, if so, what might have been the problem. If you have
installed their tanks and did not slosh them; have you had any problems
with them? How long installed, and number of hours flown would be very
helpful.
One other question is prompted by the April 2006 EAA Sport Pilot
Magazine. On page 30 of the article on the RANS S-7LS there is a
picture of the sight gauge for their 9-gallon tank. I have also noted
that the Aviat Husky has a sight gauge. I was always thankful we had a
sight gauge on our HDS and would like to do the same on the wing tanks
of my 701. Has any one used a sight gauge on their 701; and, if so, how
was it installed?
Thanking you in advance for your responses.
Stan Challgren
701/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: driving a flycutter -preferable a dual fly-cutter |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I used a single knife fly cutter in a battery drill for all of my panel holes.
Most good drills have an adjustable "clutch" normally used for driving screws.
set this fairly low so if the cutter catches, it stops spinning. Drill slowly
with a wood block under the panel and you won't get any wobble. I was worried
because of all the horror stories I had heard, but it seemed safe and easy to
me without a drill press, even on smaller pieces.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28339#28339
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AVIIDFLYIER(at)aol.com |
I have a rudder and partially assembled tail kit for sale. Health forceed the
sale. ahh the joys of getting old! write mo off line for details. kit is in
eastern NC
Tom Knox
252-813-7853 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Ricks" <allenricks(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Dremel cutting bits... |
Fellow listers,
In follow-up to my previous post about cutting out panels for access and
wing lockers...
Those of you that have used a dremel tool for "routing" out panels, etc.
What
bit (please be specific if you know) did you use for the task. I have been
practicing on scraps. This method works pretty well, but the cutting bits I
have are "grabbier" than I would like.
My thought is to make very simple wooden jigs to go around the outside of
the
area that I want to cut out. I would need to make one for the wing lockers,
and
one for the access panels, but this would be a LOT quicker than having to
make
another wing skin if I screw up. Less expensive too.
Thanks in advance, and thanks to those that answered my previous question.
Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over $12,000 |
Jim,
Great description except one thing - which engine does N601VA have?
Tim Garrett
Zodiac XL with Jabiru 3300 (very similar to N601VA otherwise)
N360TM - Getting ready for first flight...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Kirby" <graham(at)601hd.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealer |
Stan,
I've heard of people having problems with sloshing compounds breaking up in
the tank when they are exposed to different fuel additives such as MTBE.
Bits peel of the tank wall and hopefully get caught in the filter before
reaching the carb.
Perhaps if you stick to avgas you will be okay but I suggest you dig through
the various archives before you make a final descision. It's easy enough to
get the sloshing compound into the tank but a bugger to get it out if you
change your mind :-).
Graham Kirby
601HD
=========
We previously built a 601 HDS and our EAA technical advisor strongly
recommended we seal our tanks before installing them. We got
Randolph Products #912 sloshing compound from Aircraft Spruce and
sloshed all four tanks. While we never had any fuel leaks in the
four + years we flew the aircraft I am now wondering if it is
necessary with the Zenair tanks as they seem to be very
professionally done.
Stan Challgren
701/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dremel cutting bits... |
| From: | "Ashcraft, Keith -AES" <Keith.Ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
Hi Allen,
I haven't gotten to this point yet, ...but.... I am going to use an inside template.
That way while you are cutting out the hole using an inside template and
you wonder off of the template, the inside scrap gets messed up. If you were
using a template and following along the outside of the template and your bit
wonders, then you just cut into your outer wing skin. I always try to make sure
that any mistakes are "into" the scrap piece of metal.
Do that make sense??
Good luck
Keith
CH701 -- 80% of all 0.016" metal cut and/or formed
***************************************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Allen Ricks
Sent: Fri 4/14/2006 3:13 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
Fellow listers,
In follow-up to my previous post about cutting out panels for access and
wing lockers...
Those of you that have used a dremel tool for "routing" out panels, etc.
What
bit (please be specific if you know) did you use for the task. I have been
practicing on scraps. This method works pretty well, but the cutting bits I
have are "grabbier" than I would like.
My thought is to make very simple wooden jigs to go around the outside of
the
area that I want to cut out. I would need to make one for the wing lockers,
and
one for the access panels, but this would be a LOT quicker than having to
make
another wing skin if I screw up. Less expensive too.
Thanks in advance, and thanks to those that answered my previous question.
Allen Ricks
Beaverton, OR
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
Hi Guys & Gals
We got back to Ontario alright, but I came back to no internet access
due to a server crash. Never fun. But I'm back online and would like to
know how everyone enjoyed the Sun-N-Fun BBQ? Anything you would like to
see changed?
I will be posting pictures on the www.ch601.org and www.ch701.com
website by the end of the weekend.
A few things of note, I had 200 plates (we ran out early) 160 hamburgers
(8 left over) 120 hotdogs (all gone) 3 bags of 120 wings (quarter bag
left, will add a mild sauce to them next year) 75 fire roasted corn on
the cob (5 left) 16 two liters of pop (ran out way to early).
Flightcrafters brought the biggest cake I have ever seen, it was almost
gone by 8pm, some others brought strawberries. I would like to Thank
Jabiru USA, Sensornetics, Homebuilthelp.com and Can-Zac Aviation for
there donations to our event. I would also like to thank everyone who
contributed to the donation jar which helped bring this event into the
black and start building the funds for next years event if we have it.
That depends on you, was this event worth having? Did you have fun?
Though David and I work the show as Can-Zac Aviation, this event was
never supposed to be a Zenith Aircraft event. It was to be an event held
by builders for builders and owners of which we are! This is a major
cost for me in time and effort, all day Wed and most of Thursday my time
was dedicated to the BBQ, to try and provide all of you with the best
event possible.
The BIGGEST THANK-YOU goes out to Rick Roberts and his crew Ron and
Jerry who were our cooks! These guys bring there own grills, donate
there time and are not even builders, in fact when I mentioned that
wings would be nice to add to the menu they ran out and bought a Turkey
deep fryer just for our event. They enjoy helping us out and allow us
all the chance to mingle and get to place faces to the names we
constantly read. I also would like to thank Jim Hoak for reserving the
campground spot and lending a helping hand.
I hope you all had fun, Chris Heintz loves the event and looks forward
to it. please let me know if you want it in the future.
cdngoose
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Ricks" <allenricks(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Dremel cutting bits... |
Hi Keith,
Yes, an inside template was what I was thinking.
I was figuring that I would need to make one for the lockers, and one for
the access
plates. Thin plywood should work well. If this works well, it may work for
the panel.
I'm thinking about the dynon stuff, so flywheel won't work as it would be
square holes.
The problem is the Dremel bits I have for cutting are grabby in aluminum. I
think they're
really designed for wood or plastic.
Thanks
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ashcraft,
Keith -AES
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
Hi Allen,
I haven't gotten to this point yet, ...but.... I am going to use an inside
template. That way while you are cutting out the hole using an inside
template and you wonder off of the template, the inside scrap gets messed
up. If you were using a template and following along the outside of the
template and your bit wonders, then you just cut into your outer wing skin.
I always try to make sure that any mistakes are "into" the scrap piece of
metal.
Do that make sense??
Good luck
Keith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hoak" <planejim(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun BBQ |
Mark and David,
I thought it was a great event and was worth the effort. I had a few
interesting days hanging on to the space in the campground but I'm glad we
could do it. There were many who wanted the space.
I'm not sure what will actually transpire by next SunNFun, but if My Basic
Sheet Metal Workshop is still in a tent, that could be a place where we
could hold the BarBQue. It is at least as large as the space we had this
year. We'll see. Thanks for everyones efforts.
Jim Hoak
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sun-N-Fun BBQ
>
>
> Hi Guys & Gals
>
> We got back to Ontario alright, but I came back to no internet access
> due to a server crash. Never fun. But I'm back online and would like to
> know how everyone enjoyed the Sun-N-Fun BBQ? Anything you would like to
> see changed?
> I will be posting pictures on the www.ch601.org and www.ch701.com
> website by the end of the weekend.
> A few things of note, I had 200 plates (we ran out early) 160 hamburgers
> (8 left over) 120 hotdogs (all gone) 3 bags of 120 wings (quarter bag
> left, will add a mild sauce to them next year) 75 fire roasted corn on
> the cob (5 left) 16 two liters of pop (ran out way to early).
> Flightcrafters brought the biggest cake I have ever seen, it was almost
> gone by 8pm, some others brought strawberries. I would like to Thank
> Jabiru USA, Sensornetics, Homebuilthelp.com and Can-Zac Aviation for
> there donations to our event. I would also like to thank everyone who
> contributed to the donation jar which helped bring this event into the
> black and start building the funds for next years event if we have it.
> That depends on you, was this event worth having? Did you have fun?
> Though David and I work the show as Can-Zac Aviation, this event was
> never supposed to be a Zenith Aircraft event. It was to be an event held
> by builders for builders and owners of which we are! This is a major
> cost for me in time and effort, all day Wed and most of Thursday my time
> was dedicated to the BBQ, to try and provide all of you with the best
> event possible.
>
> The BIGGEST THANK-YOU goes out to Rick Roberts and his crew Ron and
> Jerry who were our cooks! These guys bring there own grills, donate
> there time and are not even builders, in fact when I mentioned that
> wings would be nice to add to the menu they ran out and bought a Turkey
> deep fryer just for our event. They enjoy helping us out and allow us
> all the chance to mingle and get to place faces to the names we
> constantly read. I also would like to thank Jim Hoak for reserving the
> campground spot and lending a helping hand.
>
> I hope you all had fun, Chris Heintz loves the event and looks forward
> to it. please let me know if you want it in the future.
>
> cdngoose
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dremel cutting bits... |
| From: | "Ashcraft, Keith -AES" <Keith.Ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
I have used ZIP Bits in the past for cutting holes in drywall, wood, when I put
in my dish-washer. They are 1/8" with a high-twist, but when I used them in wood,
I had complete control of where they went. These might be what you are talking
about. I have not tried them on aluminum. (but I was going to) I also have
a "router" attachment for my Dremel. It has big handles on it and you treat
it like a router, but once again I haven't tried it on aluminum yet.
Don't know what to tell ya!!
Keith
********************************************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Allen Ricks
Sent: Fri 4/14/2006 5:06 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
Hi Keith,
Yes, an inside template was what I was thinking.
I was figuring that I would need to make one for the lockers, and one for
the access
plates. Thin plywood should work well. If this works well, it may work for
the panel.
I'm thinking about the dynon stuff, so flywheel won't work as it would be
square holes.
The problem is the Dremel bits I have for cutting are grabby in aluminum. I
think they're
really designed for wood or plastic.
Thanks
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ashcraft,
Keith -AES
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
Hi Allen,
I haven't gotten to this point yet, ...but.... I am going to use an inside
template. That way while you are cutting out the hole using an inside
template and you wonder off of the template, the inside scrap gets messed
up. If you were using a template and following along the outside of the
template and your bit wonders, then you just cut into your outer wing skin.
I always try to make sure that any mistakes are "into" the scrap piece of
metal.
Do that make sense??
Good luck
Keith
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | test flight for changing Bing main jets from 176 to 178 INNOCENT |
GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -2.0210
Hi Guys,
It's been a month since the main jets were changed, but testing waited
for Sun n Fun and weather. Thought I should finally report the
results for those with a Stratus EA81 and Ram Performance heads.
Sunshine and tall overcast clouds were on tap today with just a few
sprinkles. About 2:00 weather was finally flyable with reported ceilings
of 3800 ft. I did preflight and twice checked the header tank for water.
Still pitched at 17-degrees, N601EZ lifted off at 2:30, climbed into the
south practice area and I observed the effects of changing the Bing main
jets from 176 to 178. A 180 main jet was tried last year and it caused
the engine to run a little rough. On climb out at high rpm the EGT never
exceeded 1400 deg F. Engine power seemed the same and it ran smoothly.
At 3500 feet I leveled off, pushed the throttle fully forward and
watched the tach reach 4950 rpm but no further. The richer mixture was
obviously cooler and yielded a little less horsepower. I adjusted
elevator trim to optimize airspeed and held a level attitude and waited.
The airspeed topped out at 128 mph, 5 less than before. EGTs settled to
1350 degrees F. and stayed there. At full throttle, oil temperature
finally reached my alarm set point of 250 degrees and the light came on,
so I backed off to 120 mph and the oil temp settled to 240 degrees F.
Cylinder head and coolant temps were 204 degrees F. Ambient air was
78-degrees F, which is hot for this time of year, but I was pleased that
the EGTs were lower with this 178 main jet. At a cruise airspeed of 120
mph, an exhaust gas temp of 1325 degrees F was a definite improvement.
Despite a slight loss of top end rpm, I'm really happy with the 601 and
Stratus Subaru at this point in time. Ram Performance said 1350 was a
good target EGT temp and Stratus said that 1500 would be a good max
EGT. So I think this 178 main jet will stay on and I'll continue to
watch it as the season changes.
The tower broke my focus with a warning for possible thunderclouds, rain
and severe convective in the area. Recalling last night's local
tornados, I immediately turned around and headed back under a much
darker set of clouds and a thick haze at 3000 feet. My landing was real
good and I used 23 to return to the hangars with 55 minutes on the
clock. With three quarters of the fuel used up, I'll probably drain the
rest and prepare for paint.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun BBQ |
| From: | "Martin Pohl" <mpohl(at)pohltec.ch> |
Thanks to everybody that helped organize the BBQ at Sun n Fun. The "swiss delegation"
:D enjoyed the hamburgers, the strawberries and the sweet cake very very
much!!! The talks with all of you were SUPER.
Cheers and best regards
Pascale & Martin
--------
________________________
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
8645 Jona, Switzerland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28513#28513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dremel cutting bits... |
For a full scale plane, a Dremel is like using a tack hammer to drive a
railroad spike. I've never had any luck using one- always wound up having to
go with a saber saw or snips in the past. The disks just don't hold up
cutting .025, and the mills are slow as molasses. Can't wait for the next
opportunity to try the Olfa knife.
If your mind is made up to use a rotary tool, you're probably money
ahead to invest in a die grinder.
Bill
do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
>
> Allen, While I find a Dremel useful,
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Bending Brake Welding Question |
I bought Zenith bending brake plans and I have all the
parts ready for welding. The end plates are 1/8 inch
thick and need to be welded to the end of 4 x 4
angular that are 1/4 of an inch thick. Both material
are steel. My questions are:
- The manual recommends arc welding to avoid heat
distortion. Is there any way that can be gas welded
with no heat distortion?
- If I gas weld, should I use a tip for 1/8 or a tip
for 1/4
- What would be the most economical arc welder for
this job? The cheapest ones welds up to 3/16 in a
single pass, what does this mean? Will it weld thicker
by multi passing?
- Any other recommendation.
I have no welding experience but I want to learn and I
have enough scrap metal to practice. I also have
Richard Finchs Welder Handbook.
Thanks
William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
Working on bending brake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Sealer |
I researched this very extensively before I used the Randolph 912 compound in my
801 tanks. The only failures I could find where the ones where there was a leak
in an existing tank that already had fuel in them. That fuel leaves a residue
that is next to impossible to remove for the compound to attach properly to
the wall of the tank. There is not one instance where I found a failure in tanks
that were treated while in a virgin { prefuel} state and properly prepped.
I am sure there is additives out there somewhere they use in gas that might
attack the compound though. YMMV..
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Graham Kirby" wrote:
Stan,
I've heard of people having problems with sloshing compounds breaking up in
the tank when they are exposed to different fuel additives such as MTBE.
Bits peel of the tank wall and hopefully get caught in the filter before
reaching the carb.
Perhaps if you stick to avgas you will be okay but I suggest you dig through
the various archives before you make a final descision. It's easy enough to
get the sloshing compound into the tank but a bugger to get it out if you
change your mind :-).
Graham Kirby
601HD
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
We previously built a 601 HDS and our EAA technical advisor strongly
recommended we seal our tanks before installing them. We got
Randolph Products #912 sloshing compound from Aircraft Spruce and
sloshed all four tanks. While we never had any fuel leaks in the
four + years we flew the aircraft I am now wondering if it is
necessary with the Zenair tanks as they seem to be very
professionally done.
Stan Challgren
701/?
I researched this very extensively before I used the Randolph 912 compound in my
801 tanks. The only failures I could find where the ones where there was a leak
in an existing tank that already had fuel in them. That fuel leaves a residue
that is next to impossible to remove for the compound to attach properly to
the wall of the tank. There is not one instance where I found a failure in tanks
that were treated while in a virgin { prefuel} state and properly prepped.
I am sure there is additives out there somewhere they use in gas that might
attack the compound though. YMMV..
BenHaas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
--"GrahamKirby"graham(at)601hd.comwrote:
--Zenith-Listmessagepostedby:"GrahamKirby"graham(at)601hd.com
Stan,
I'veheardofpeoplehavingproblemswithsloshingcompoundsbreakingupin
thetankwhentheyareexposedtodifferentfueladditivessuchasMTBE.
Bitspeelofthetankwallandhopefullygetcaughtinthefilterbefore
reachingthecarb.
PerhapsifyousticktoavgasyouwillbeokaybutIsuggestyoudigthrough
thevariousarchivesbeforeyoumakeafinaldescision.It'seasyenoughto
getthesloshingcompoundintothetankbutabuggertogetitoutifyou
changeyourmind:-).
GrahamKirby
601HD
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Wepreviouslybuilta601HDSandourEAAtechnicaladvisorstrongly
recommendedwesealourtanksbeforeinstallingthem.Wegot
RandolphProducts#912sloshingcompoundfromAircraftSpruceand
sloshedallfourtanks.Whileweneverhadanyfuelleaksinthe
four+yearsweflewtheaircraftIamnowwonderingifitis
necessarywiththeZenairtanksastheyseemtobevery
professionallydone.
StanChallgren
701/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Brake Welding Question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Dominguez" <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 9:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bending Brake Welding Question
The answer to most of your questions is "maybe". An experienced welder can
gas weld and avoid heat distortion. An experienced welder can also get the
best out of a low amp welder. Yes a low amp/inexpensive welder can weld
thicker metal if you grind out the weld and make multiple passes. In truth
when they claim 3/16th thay are pushing the envelope for many of the cheaper
welders. You would likely be better served by cutting the pieces and
getting it welded professionally. Perhaps you could tack it together and
save a little that way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Pellien" <jim(at)pellien.com> |
| Subject: | MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over $12,000 |
Rotax 912ULS 100 hp
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of OK2AV8(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: MASPL Demonstrator Aircraft For Sale - Save over
$12,000
Jim,
Great description except one thing - which engine does N601VA have?
Tim Garrett
Zodiac XL with Jabiru 3300 (very similar to N601VA otherwise)
N360TM - Getting ready for first flight...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
William:
You can gas weld it. Or, if you don't already have a
wire-feed welder and have an extra $300, get one from
Lowes or Home depot. With a little practice you can
wire-feed weld like a pro. Just use the flux-core
wire and don't worry about using gas (argon). Don't
buy a stick welder for what we do on airplanes.
If you want to gas-weld it, just keep the heat
concentrated on the thicker part and make sure you get
penetration on both parts. Cool the puddle with the
filler rod as you go and don't work in one place too
long. Do a short tack on one side, then the other,
then 90 deg. from there and spread the welds around.
Yesterday I was welding one of two tricky parts of my
throttle linkage (gas welding) and I finished one weld
perfectly. The second one I got impatient and kept
going in one spot and melted the part off. It's a
good thing my little helper wasn't around when the red
hot part fell to the floor or she would have learned a
new word.
Good luck,
Scott Laughlin
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/4_14_06_Throttle.JPG
--- William Dominguez wrote:
Is there any way that can be gas welded
> with no heat distortion?
> - What would be the most economical arc welder for
> this job? The cheapest ones welds up to 3/16 in a
> single pass, what does this mean? Will it weld
thicker by multi passing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Brake Welding Question |
Bill-
I've used a Lincoln stick welder of one model or another for over 35
years. Just what I'm familiar with, I suppose. Best if you have access to
240V. You can get a dual steel/aluminum model for around $300 US if you
watch for the sales. Problem is, gold is cheaper than the aluminum rods.
When I was a teenager, I welded the roll cage for a stock car where the
driver caught a T bone right at him. The well case bent as much as 6", but
the welds never broke. I had maybe 75 hours experience with the welder at
that point. Suppose you could say you don't have to worry whether the welder
was capable. Not me, the machine!
Bill
do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Dominguez" <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 8:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bending Brake Welding Question
>
> I bought Zenith bending brake plans and I have all the
> parts ready for welding.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
Thanks Scott, I've been fighting the temptation to buy
the Lincoln Electric Weldpack 100 HD for $350, it seem
that it will do the job. My problem is that this might
be the only arc welding Ill be doing in this project,
after this it will be sitting in my shop collecting
dust. So far Ive contacted one professional welder
and he is asking $120 if I go to his shop and $180 if
he do it in my home. I have a friend who can stick
weld it but he has been unavailable lately.
William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
Working on bending brake
--- N5SL wrote:
>
>
> William:
>
> You can gas weld it. Or, if you don't already have
> a
> wire-feed welder and have an extra $300, get one
> from
> Lowes or Home depot. With a little practice you can
> wire-feed weld like a pro. Just use the flux-core
> wire and don't worry about using gas (argon). Don't
> buy a stick welder for what we do on airplanes.
>
> If you want to gas-weld it, just keep the heat
> concentrated on the thicker part and make sure you
> get
> penetration on both parts. Cool the puddle with the
> filler rod as you go and don't work in one place too
> long. Do a short tack on one side, then the other,
> then 90 deg. from there and spread the welds around.
>
> Yesterday I was welding one of two tricky parts of
> my
> throttle linkage (gas welding) and I finished one
> weld
> perfectly. The second one I got impatient and kept
> going in one spot and melted the part off. It's a
> good thing my little helper wasn't around when the
> red
> hot part fell to the floor or she would have learned
> a
> new word.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/4_14_06_Throttle.JPG
>
> --- William Dominguez wrote:
>
> Is there any way that can be gas welded
> > with no heat distortion?
>
> > - What would be the most economical arc welder for
> > this job? The cheapest ones welds up to 3/16 in a
> > single pass, what does this mean? Will it weld
> thicker by multi passing?
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Howerton" <Bill(at)Howerton.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
I've got the same dilemma. I've got an oxy-acetylene welder that I've had for
years, but even trying to use it on 6061 has resulted in nothing more aluminum
slag. Now I have reason to do some welding on my plane - specifically the overflow
tube on my right wing broke off while I was transporting it to the hangar,
and I am more inclined to buy a TIG welder that I can use for other things
than to pay $100 (or more) to have a welder come out to my shop for a one-time
fix.
Does anybody have a good suggestion for a small TIG welder that runs on 120V and
doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
----- Original Message -----
From: William Dominguez
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question
Thanks Scott, I've been fighting the temptation to buy
the Lincoln Electric Weldpack 100 HD for $350, it seem
that it will do the job. My problem is that this might
be the only arc welding Ill be doing in this project,
after this it will be sitting in my shop collecting
dust. So far Ive contacted one professional welder
and he is asking $120 if I go to his shop and $180 if
he do it in my home. I have a friend who can stick
weld it but he has been unavailable lately.
William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
Working on bending brake
--- N5SL wrote:
>
>
> William:
>
> You can gas weld it. Or, if you don't already have
> a
> wire-feed welder and have an extra $300, get one
> from
> Lowes or Home depot. With a little practice you can
> wire-feed weld like a pro. Just use the flux-core
> wire and don't worry about using gas (argon). Don't
> buy a stick welder for what we do on airplanes.
>
> If you want to gas-weld it, just keep the heat
> concentrated on the thicker part and make sure you
> get
> penetration on both parts. Cool the puddle with the
> filler rod as you go and don't work in one place too
> long. Do a short tack on one side, then the other,
> then 90 deg. from there and spread the welds around.
>
> Yesterday I was welding one of two tricky parts of
> my
> throttle linkage (gas welding) and I finished one
> weld
> perfectly. The second one I got impatient and kept
> going in one spot and melted the part off. It's a
> good thing my little helper wasn't around when the
> red
> hot part fell to the floor or she would have learned
> a
> new word.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/4_14_06_Throttle.JPG
>
> --- William Dominguez wrote:
>
> Is there any way that can be gas welded
> > with no heat distortion?
>
> > - What would be the most economical arc welder for
> > this job? The cheapest ones welds up to 3/16 in a
> > single pass, what does this mean? Will it weld
> thicker by multi passing?
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dremel cutting bits... |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Yup die grinders are dirt cheap and fast at cuttig metal or
plastics...Used with rotary burrs are great bang for the buck...Using 3"
cutting disks are great.
I would still use a jig saw to get the rough opening for the baggage
lockers...finish with snips= no edge distortion.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
For a full scale plane, a Dremel is like using a tack hammer to
drive a railroad spike. I've never had any luck using one- always wound
up having to go with a saber saw or snips in the past. The disks just
don't hold up cutting .025, and the mills are slow as molasses. Can't
wait for the next opportunity to try the Olfa knife.
If your mind is made up to use a rotary tool, you're probably money
ahead to invest in a die grinder.
Bill
do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Dremel cutting bits...
>
> Allen, While I find a Dremel useful,
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Brake Welding Question |
I think arc welding in all forms is potentially much more dangerous
than gas welding. The energy developed in the arc can produce all
sorts of damage to humans from sunburn to radiation poisoning to
blindness. Gas welding has none of these risks associated with it -
but you certainly can get your fingers burned.
I learned gas welding from a book many years ago and have used it
from time to time. I don't think there are any size limits to the
process - just limits brought on by the size of the acetylene tank
you have. There are also no real limits in the processes you can do
including welding, brazing, cutting, and other useful things.
To prevent warping in heavy steel like you described, all you really
need to do is tack weld the corners and perhaps a couple of places in
the middle of the joint and then fill in the bead for the length of
the joint. The tack welds will hold the pieces in place and prevent bending.
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
>- The manual recommends arc welding to avoid heat
>distortion. Is there any way that can be gas welded
>with no heat distortion?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
Bill,
I welded my first aircraft fuel tanks with oxyacetylene and it was much
like riding a unicycle in a dark room.
Joint design and material selection are the critical issues with gas,
but it can be done. You need to work in
3000 or 5052 series aluminum to get good results with gas. Do lap joints
to get better at it. Edge welds are easy
but notoriously weak in gas welding.
The cheapest thing I've seen is a TIG and ARC welding solid state
inverter technology unit from Harbor Freight
for $250. Not sure how durable or repairable it would be, but it might
work for you.
See link.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91811
I use a Miller Syncrowave that does TIG nicely but it was expensive at
$1500 or so.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Howerton wrote:
>
>I've got the same dilemma. I've got an oxy-acetylene welder that I've had for
years, but even trying to use it on 6061 has resulted in nothing more aluminum
slag. Now I have reason to do some welding on my plane - specifically the overflow
tube on my right wing broke off while I was transporting it to the hangar,
and I am more inclined to buy a TIG welder that I can use for other things
than to pay $100 (or more) to have a welder come out to my shop for a one-time
fix.
>
>Does anybody have a good suggestion for a small TIG welder that runs on 120V and
doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
All-
Did I happen to mention that, last I knew, even the "Cheap Stick Welder"
from Lincoln was MADE IN THE STATES? If they've outsourced since the last
time I checked- don't tell me. It's nice to be able to point to at least one
superior product that was competitively priced with a sticker that said
"Made in the USA".
Don't get me wrong- if it weren't for Harbor Freight, we'd all have more
money in our tools than in our projects. Lincoln was the notable exception.
Talk about irony.I was once talking computers with a member of a heavy
equipment trade delegation from Belarus (Old "White" Russia). We got on the
subject of how cheap RAM had become, and I noted that most of it was now
made in Taiwan. He snorted and said "That's the good stuff- now everything
comes from Indonesia".
What can you say. MiG outsourced to China years ago...........
Bill
do
not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron dewees" <rdewees(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question
>
> I second the Lincoln 175.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doug kandle <d_kandle(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
I have found the people in my EAA chapter to be a real help on things
like this. If you have a chapter nearby, then you will likely find a
good welder among the members who be very happy to help you with a
welding task.
So, if you are not already a member of your local EAA chapter then
join it. You will find lots of resources there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deglass1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
As sort of a survey for the list of XL kit builders:
I'm preparing to install the NACA cockpit air vent (6B20-4) just behind
the firewall, between the second and third stiffeners per the plans.
In that location, the vent appears to be close interference for the
outside foot on the pedals on each side, even with my size-10 shoe as a
trial fit. I noticed on XLs at Sun'n Fun that some were placed per
plans, but the commercially finished XLs (AMD) had the vents higher and
farther aft, as do about half the XLs in the Zenith albums.
Do any of you have the higher location, and anyone who built per plans
wish you had placed the vents higher and more aft? Or is the plans
location not in the way after all?
Thanks, and I enjoyed meeting some of you at the BBQ!
David G
Forest (near Lynchburg) VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
I put mine here and so far it hasn't run into anything
and allows for installation of my BRS harness:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/4_1_06_Kitplanes.JPG
--- deglass1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> As sort of a survey for the list of XL kit builders:
> I'm preparing to install the NACA cockpit air vent
> (6B20-4) just behind
> the firewall,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Davidson" <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
David Wrote
" I'm preparing to install the NACA cockpit air vent (6B20-4) just behind
the firewall, between the second and third stiffeners per the plans.
In that location, the vent appears to be close interference for the
outside foot on the pedals on each side, ..."
I installed mine in the location between the 2nd and 3rd L stiffener. It
now is a sharp turn to put in the tubing to the eyeball vent in the panel,
or even to in a triangle shaped addition below the panel. Higher would be
better if you will use tubing to move the air to a "remote" eyeball vent.
N601VA has the eyeball part directly on the vent. You have to reach down
and move it. Of course, that is always after you have tightened the
seatbelt!
Where you put the vent is partially determined by where you want the air to
come out in the cockpit, as much as by the aerodynamics of the vent itself.
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
| From: | "Daniel Vandenberg" <djvdb63(at)yahoo.com> |
[quote="nfivesl(at)yahoo.com"]I put mine here and so far it hasn't run into anything
and allows for installation of my BRS harness:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/4_1_06_Kitplanes.JPG
Scott...
I think we've caught you daydreaming about the RV-9A in the latest Kitplanes
[Wink]
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28711#28711
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george may" <gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com> |
Greg-
Get the variable speed. It will give you more options when trying to cut
metal and/or
fiberglass
George May
601XL 912s Engine first startup schedule for tomorrow
do no archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hi Greg,
Welcome aboard.
I recently got one of the new lithium battery powered ones. It is
variable speed and goes faster than any of the corded ones. I find
it wonderful to use.
Paul
XL wings
>First time posting here. I'm just getting started with my XL, actually
>attending the rudder workshop next month. I'm getting organized, work
>shop, bench, some basic tools that I didn't have lying around already,
>etc., and had a simple question - I was going to get a Dremel tool
>anyway, and I was wondering if there is any real advantage to the
>variable speed vs. the two speed models?
>
>Thanks in advance and thanks for all the invaluable advice you guys have
>already provided.
>
>Greg Marlow
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas-Welding or Arc-Welding Question |
A friend of mine, a Pitts builder, got a Lincon Sq Wave 175 on Ebay and there were
two listed then But none now I bought a 175 new years ago and it does
well in the hands of a hack Check Ebay Murray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Tim Shankland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Tim Shankland
Lists: Zenith-List
Subject: Tach filter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tshank@core.com.04.16.2006/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leo Corbalis" <leocorbalis(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Remove from list |
Please remove this account from your list. Recipient is deceased.
Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a template for the
cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Page <webmaster(at)upac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
GIg, here you go!
http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/airvent-601.pdf
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Apr 17, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Gig Giacona wrote:
>
> Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a
> template for the cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
>
> --------
> W.R. Gig Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
That outline is for when you build your own ducting out of metal. If you
have the factory-supplied plastic ones make sure the outlines match.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Trevor Page
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent?
GIg, here you go!
http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/airvent-601.pdf
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Apr 17, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Gig Giacona wrote:
>
> Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a
> template for the cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
>
> --------
> W.R. Gig Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
Gig,
I see the drawing was posted for the Zenith NACA vent. You can take it
just a step or so further to an inexpensive
directable air vent from a car as seen in the links below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/NACAvent.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/outletventright.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/NACAvent.gif
Pivots both ways and works like a charm. In the cold winter months, I
put a piece of
foam in the rear of the NACA vent opening to seal it completely.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Gig Giacona wrote:
>
>Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a template for the
cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
>
>--------
>W.R. Gig Giacona
>601XL Under Construction
>See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rubber o-ring on the quick drain fuel fitting supplied by |
Zenith
| From: | "Eddie Seve" <eddie.seve(at)clarity.com> |
Hi all,
I noticed that after fitting the fuel level sender to my right wing tank
and then sloshing the tank out with preium unleaded pertol to removed
dust etc. that the small o-ring on the fuel quick drain in the bottom of
the fuel tank had expanded in size and no longer provided a good seal,
in fact it looked like it would slide off completely if left alone, I
removed it and after a few hours it returned to its correct size. I was
under the impression that this should have been safe to use for MOGAS or
AVGAS, has anyone else had this problem, or do I need to install a
different type of o-ring.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Best Regards,
Eddie Seve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rubber o-ring on the quick drain fuel fitting supplied |
by Ze
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
My guess is the mogas may have contained alcohol.
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - awaiting kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29012#29012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Page <webmaster(at)upac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
Gig, I actually opted for the Vans kit which gives you the eyeball
vents, hoses and NACA ducts. Total was about $60 for both sides and
worked out really good. Glad I did, it gets very hot under that
canopy and the eyeball vents make it very easy to control
temperatures when flying.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Apr 17, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Gig Giacona wrote:
>
> Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a
> template for the cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
>
> --------
> W.R. Gig Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Murphy's law did not apply |
Hello group!
Well, this evening, I've been lucky with some bad luck
(or more precisely, bad design).
After dinner, I decided to go flying at sunset. I
departed CSB3 at 19h30EAT and went to Mascouche
(CSK3). Then, I took position to depart from runway
11. Several seconds after applying full throttle, the
engine came back to idle and the throttle lever was
non effective. The plane started to decelerate on the
runway.
I parked it at the end of the runway, removed the
cowling and quickly noticed that my throttle lever was
disassembled. When I modified the carburetor, I cut
down the throttle lever and made a plate what would
accomodate the throttle push rod I'm using. This
plate is (or was) attached to the Carburetor throttle
arm with two A5 Avex rivets.
The plane flew more than 200 hours before the rivets
failed ant the plate detached from the throttle arm!
Should Murphy have made this happen 10 seconds later,
I,would have been in deep s..t (there are no good
options for emergency landings during a moment after
take off on that runway). But the law did not apply
and I simply had a good workout pulling the plane to a
hangar I have access to (which was near the other end
of the runway).
Here are some pictures showing that plate:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP02135.JPG
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP02158.JPG
This being said, I would suggest looking at any
situation where a couple of rivets hold a critical
part that is subject to constant stress and vibration.
These two rivets will be replaced with two AN3 bolts
and lock nuts in the next few days!
Michel :-)
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Murphy's law did not apply |
Hi Michel:
Were the rivets steel or aluminum?
John (soon to start building a CH710)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Murphy's law did not apply |
Hi Michel:
I took look at your pictures. Why did you not weld the
modified bracket as opposed to rivets?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Murphy's law did not apply |
Michel that is very timely news! A few days ago I
made a similar installation on my throttle where I
installed two rivets - then, the day after I installed
it, I drilled them out and installed AN3 bolts because
it didn't feel right after sleeping on it!
It's good to hear you got a break on that one!
Scott Laughlin
--- Michel Therrien wrote:
>
>
> Hello group!
>
> Well, this evening, I've been lucky with some bad
> luck
> (or more precisely, bad design).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Franke" <pfranke(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
Trev,
With the Vans eyeball vents, how well do u find that they work? I've heard
rumours that the plastic type supplied don't seal well when closed.
Cheers,
Peter Franke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trevor Page" <webmaster(at)upac.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent?
>
> Gig, I actually opted for the Vans kit which gives you the eyeball
> vents, hoses and NACA ducts. Total was about $60 for both sides and
> worked out really good. Glad I did, it gets very hot under that
> canopy and the eyeball vents make it very easy to control
> temperatures when flying.
>
> Trev Page
> C-IDUS 601HD R912
>
>
> On Apr 17, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Gig Giacona wrote:
>
> >
> > Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a
> > template for the cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
> >
> > --------
> > W.R. Gig Giacona
> > 601XL Under Construction
> > See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevor Page <webmaster(at)upac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
Peter, they seem fine to me. I fly in warm weather most of the time
so I tend to use them. If I recall they might leak a little bit but
it's never bothered me. Michel Therien has them as well and he's done
more flying then me so perhaps he can chime in on this.
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
On Apr 18, 2006, at 6:27 AM, Peter Franke wrote:
>
> Trev,
>
> With the Vans eyeball vents, how well do u find that they work?
> I've heard
> rumours that the plastic type supplied don't seal well when closed.
>
> Cheers,
> Peter Franke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Trevor Page" <webmaster(at)upac.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent?
>
>
>>
>> Gig, I actually opted for the Vans kit which gives you the eyeball
>> vents, hoses and NACA ducts. Total was about $60 for both sides and
>> worked out really good. Glad I did, it gets very hot under that
>> canopy and the eyeball vents make it very easy to control
>> temperatures when flying.
>>
>> Trev Page
>> C-IDUS 601HD R912
>>
>>
>> On Apr 17, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Gig Giacona wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Since we're on the subject of the NACA vent does anybody have a
>>> template for the cutout for the one that Zenith supplies?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> W.R. Gig Giacona
>>> 601XL Under Construction
>>> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28984#28984
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Murphy's law did not apply |
I read or saw somewhere that throttle linkage need to
be installed in such way that in case of failure, the
spring should open the throttle to full position
instead of closing it. Then you will use mixture
control to reduce power and when in final for landing,
you can turn off the engine and glide to the runnway.
I thought this was common practice. Is there a reason
why not to do this?
William Dominguez
Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
--- Michel Therrien wrote:
>
>
> Hello group!
>
> Well, this evening, I've been lucky with some bad
> luck
> (or more precisely, bad design).
>
> After dinner, I decided to go flying at sunset. I
> departed CSB3 at 19h30EAT and went to Mascouche
> (CSK3). Then, I took position to depart from runway
> 11. Several seconds after applying full throttle,
> the
> engine came back to idle and the throttle lever was
> non effective. The plane started to decelerate on
> the
> runway.
>
> I parked it at the end of the runway, removed the
> cowling and quickly noticed that my throttle lever
> was
> disassembled. When I modified the carburetor, I cut
> down the throttle lever and made a plate what would
> accomodate the throttle push rod I'm using. This
> plate is (or was) attached to the Carburetor
> throttle
> arm with two A5 Avex rivets.
>
> The plane flew more than 200 hours before the rivets
> failed ant the plate detached from the throttle arm!
>
> Should Murphy have made this happen 10 seconds
> later,
> I,would have been in deep s..t (there are no good
> options for emergency landings during a moment after
> take off on that runway). But the law did not apply
> and I simply had a good workout pulling the plane to
> a
> hangar I have access to (which was near the other
> end
> of the runway).
>
> Here are some pictures showing that plate:
>
>
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP02135.JPG
>
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP02158.JPG
>
> This being said, I would suggest looking at any
> situation where a couple of rivets hold a critical
> part that is subject to constant stress and
> vibration.
> These two rivets will be replaced with two AN3
> bolts
> and lock nuts in the next few days!
>
> Michel :-)
>
>
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair engine failure |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
You stated the plane on developed partial power. Was this a low RPM issue or did
the plane just not accelerate to the speed necessary to allow a proper climb
once out of ground effect?
Since he didn't abort the take off roll I would hope it is the later and if so
look at the prop pitch.
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29115#29115
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
I had always planned to duct the vent and add an eyeball to direct the air. Acctually
my plan is to put a valved Y behind the eyeball so the same vent would
be used for both cabin heat and "cold" air.
I'll check this weekend and see if the cutout for the metal "HD" vent is the same
as the plastic and report back.
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29122#29122
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fritz Gurschick <taffy8706(at)yahoo.com> |
List,
I try to keep my posts to a minimum, but feel this issue is worth
giving my two cents worth.
First I am glad Michel or his airplane did not get hurt during his
incident. I do not intend to try and outthink Chris Hientz as I have
nothing but the most respect for the man.
I built my 701 as per the plans (scratch built). After many flight
hours and several condition inspections it was found that several rivets
which were installed on a support bracket for the center elevator hinge
had come loose. I immediately replaced two of these A-5 rivets with
AN 3 bolts.
Having gone thru this experience with the 701. Now, on the 601 XL
which I am scratch building, I install several (depending on
its design and how many rivets used) AN 3 bolts on any bracket which
has external (push/ pull) forces applied to it. I.E. the support
bracket for the Aileron bellcrank.
Over-kill ? yes, maybe? But I know I will enjoy flying a lot more
knowing that those parts which aren't seen on every preflight, are not
going to come loose on me. ( I know that ZAC also sells stainless A-5
rivets as used on mounting the rudder pedal/ toe brake hinges)
Here, I expect an outcry of: weight control !!! I am well aware of
it, and thus would rather go without the Big Mac on days which I fly.
Please take Michel's post seriously, and look for any similar
situation on YOUR airplane.-------Fritz
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Moore <moorecomp(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Leo J. Corbalis Obituary |
All,
I found this online in the archives of the San Jose'
Mercury News -
Leo J. Corbalis
CA, United States
Major Leo J. Corbalis USAF, Ret. Entered into repose
in Saratoga on Dec. 5, 2005. Beloved husband to
Betty, and father to Leo, Charles, Hugh, Catherine,
and
Mary. Devoted grandfather of nineteen. A career Air
Force pilot, he flew B-47 bombers and moved to Titan
II missile command. Retired to California in 1970 and
went into electronics and communications. An avid
pilot, he built and flew his own experimental
aircraft.. . A devoted Catholic, by word and example.
Published on December 8, 2005, San Jose Mercury News
(CA)
His aircraft is also listed for sale here -
http://www.airplanedreams.com/Aircraft/AircraftPages/N1229G.aspx
Pray for his family.
Best to all,
Craig Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Murphy's law did not apply |
I had the same thought yesterday... I heard that Rotax
engines are designed this way (full throttle in case
of throttle failure). I'll be looking at how to
implement something similar on my installation.
Michel
PS: But all of this is temporary :-) More on that
very soon!
--- William Dominguez wrote:
>
>
> I read or saw somewhere that throttle linkage need
> to
> be installed in such way that in case of failure,
> the
> spring should open the throttle to full position
> instead of closing it. Then you will use mixture
> control to reduce power and when in final for
> landing,
> you can turn off the engine and glide to the
> runnway.
> I thought this was common practice. Is there a
> reason
> why not to do this?
>
>
>
> William Dominguez
> Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
>
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keystone Engineering LLC <keystone(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | 801 on Full Lotus Floats |
OH what a night.
Last night weighted my 801 on Full Lotus floats. I just finished installing the
floats. Well, I still need to figure out how to lift the water rudder (the
devil is in the details!)... I took my 801 off floats and put it back on wheels.
I then weighed it again. I weighed it from the lifting eyes I bolted to
the main spar with a halibut scale I borrowed from the local fish cannery. My
left wing is still 20 lbs heaver than my right. When lifting it from the main
spar the force needed to balance the plane on the tail was downward. It turns
out the empty CG is 2-3" forward of the main spar.
On floats the empty the weight is 1379 lbs with the CG at 415 mm
On wheels the empty the weight is 1208 lbs with the CG at 396.2 mm
My 801 gained 33 lbs over the last 2 years. Most of that was probably from changing
from 8.00x6 tires to 8.5x6 tires on the mains. I also had 7 quarts of oil
in the engine. Who knows dirt and oil probably added a couple of pounds.
When the lakes thaw up here I will put it back on floats. I am really looking
forward to float flying this year!
I need to send Nick a note and ask what the allowable gross weight is on floats.
I have heard it is often several hundred pounds heaver on floats than on wheels.
There is no way I will get to Vne on floats.
I wanted to be on wheels for the Valdez May Day fly-in. I borrowed a climb prop
so hopefully I will be sub 100' on my take off distance in the short field contest
this year . Last year I was 139'.
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
Valdez, AK
250 hrs
I'm ready to go to the beach!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Zed Smith <zsmith3rd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 brake lines? |
Chuck,
Added you to my "approved list" and got the photos.
Thanks.
Mine will be exactly as you show.....I had decided on that routing, but sure did
wonder about the tees.
I had also looked at the ZAC builders stuff. Not much mention of brakes, but the
hose routing on the dual-caliper wheels was evident in the Gear Section.
I have a vacuum pump from ER that they decided to dispose of.... small fractional-horse
motor with rotary pump, pint jar, hoses, etc.
If you reverse the hoses it makes a neat "pusher/pressure" pump.....just put the
brake fluid in the jar and flip the switch. It puts air into the closed jar
thru one tube forcing the fluid out the other tube and up the bleeder valve.
It has about as much pressure a fellow could exert by blowing with his mouth.
Works great. Used it on the previous plane and loaned it to others, too.
Again, thanks!
Zed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fritz Gurschick <taffy8706(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | full throttle ????? |
List,
Full throttle in case of linkage failure ??? When building my 701, I had the
very same thoughts about going "full throttle" with any linkage failure. It
sounded like a great idea to me. I talked it over with a couple of friends, and
they both said the same thing: "What if you have a throttle failure on engine
start, at a fly-in, crowed ramp conditions, with all kinds of people and
airplanes around".
In a panic situation, the shut-down procedure might not get done as quickly as
one might expect and a lot of folks and equipment could be severly damaged.
I opted for a conventional set up, make the throttle system as "murphy proof"
as possible and check it on every preflight. I feel the dangers of "full throttle,
if linkage fails" outweigh the advantages. (Of course it all depends
on when the failure occurs, In Michel's situation it would have paid off, but
what if it had happened 15-20 minutes earlier ??-------my opimion only--- Fritz
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Location for the NACA cockpit vent? |
Vans also sells the (expensive} all-metal eyeball vents:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1145387743-78-363&brow
se=heatvent&product=sv-6
Or as a tiny URL: http://tinyurl.com/pqajz
SteinAir is promising a cheaper all-metal solution:
http://www.steinair.com/eyeballvents.htm
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 701 brake lines? |
| From: | "Geoff Heap" <stol10(at)comcast.net> |
Hi Chuck. I too am just about to work on my main wheels and would appreciate the
info on your 701 instalation. Thanks... Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29223#29223
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sales@steelframe" <sales(at)steelframe.com.au> |
| Subject: | Radiator Placement |
G'Day List,
I am seeking a bit of advice re radiator placement, I have just about finished
my Scrap built 601 & to keep the airframe as clean as possible I have mounted
the radiator between the firewall & the Subaru engine & am relying on turbulent
ram air, I have cowled the radiator very tightly so the air has to go thru the
radiator,
I have also fitted a shutter at bottom aft end of the lower cowl to create a low
pressure area to assist in scavenging, sad to say the cooling does not work
as I had hoped, Is there anyone on the list that has had success with the
fitting of radiators within the engine compartment? any help would be appreciated
Ron Saarinen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radiator Placement |
This is how mine is setup... it works well. I have
several local friends with similar installation that
get good results.
See:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chengine.htm
One thing to notice... my air inlets are fairly big
(and this is true as well for my friends with in-cowl
radiators).
Michel
--- "sales@steelframe"
wrote:
> "sales@steelframe"
>
> G'Day List,
>
> I am seeking a bit of advice re radiator placement,
> I have just about finished
> my Scrap built 601 & to keep the airframe as clean
> as possible I have mounted
> the radiator between the firewall & the Subaru
> engine & am relying on turbulent
> ram air, I have cowled the radiator very tightly so
> the air has to go thru the radiator,
> I have also fitted a shutter at bottom aft end of
> the lower cowl to create a low
> pressure area to assist in scavenging, sad to say
> the cooling does not work
> as I had hoped, Is there anyone on the list that has
> had success with the
> fitting of radiators within the engine compartment?
> any help would be appreciated
>
> Ron Saarinen
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Preflight tests (was: Corvair engine failure) |
Before we did the first flight with my Soob powered
601-HD, I'm glad we did a lot of testing on the
ground. Actually, the engine ran for approximatively
15 hours before flying. During the first few hours,
we discovered that my ignition setup was bogus. I
tried using Mitsubishi pickups with IC107 coils. We
burned both coils within a few hours. With the
Mitsubishi pickups we need the IC12 coils with
appropriate resistors.
Then, later, after final inspection, but before 1st
flight, I discovered my engine mount was not good (it
flexed - inappropriate design). I got somebody to
modify its design in the field.
We also did a traction test on the ground with the
plane attached to a scale.
On the day of the 1st flight, my test pilot did
several acceleration runs on the runway with no
intention to fly. When he got comfortable that he
reached 50mph in a short enough distance (and that the
engine ran well), then he lifted off.
After 1st flight, we modified the prop pitch.
I don't know if we can run an air cooled engine on the
ground at full rpm for a long period (that was not an
isssue with the soob). I know that if we did not do
that, my aircraft would not have served me for long.
Michel
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KOBO" <kobo1(at)cyberbeach.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radiator Placement |
Michel, your rad placement looks a little high. It seems to be above the
carburetor, is that right?
Michael K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Therrien" <mtherr(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Radiator Placement
>
>
> This is how mine is setup... it works well. I have
> several local friends with similar installation that
> get good results.
>
> See:
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chengine.htm
>
> One thing to notice... my air inlets are fairly big
> (and this is true as well for my friends with in-cowl
> radiators).
>
> Michel
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair engine failure |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Sounds very much like a take off that should have been aborted. If he was using
the Warp Drive prop that William Wynne recomends then it is indeed ground adjustable.
I look forword to hearing more info.
--------
W.R. Gig Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29388#29388
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: full throttle ????? |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I guess you all are talking primarily about the Rotax, but most carburated Lycomings
also have a "safety spring" intregal to the carb throttle linkage which
goes full throttle in the case of a broken cable. I don't know about FI engines.
I think this just makes sense. I have never started an aircraft with anyone
standing anywhere close to the front of my plane and always have brakes on when
starting. Even with a little creep or sliding forward when mashing on the brakes
and full throttle, you should still have plenty of time to figure out what
is happening and shut down before doing any damage or hurting someone. Now,
if you start up without your feet on the brakes or with someone standing 10 feet
in front of your prop, there might be a problem even if there's nothing wrong
with your throttle cable. I'll take an unexpected full throttle on the ground
any day over the throttle going to idle in flight. Just my 2 cents worth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29399#29399
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <n801za(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 801 on Full Lotus Floats HOORAY! |
>Subject: Zenith-List: 801 on Full Lotus Floats
Congratulation Bill, To my knowledge, yours will be the first 801 ever to
actually be flown on floats. I hope to follow you one of the days.
Jim Frisby
N801ZA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <n801za(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 801 on Full Lotus Floats HOORAY! |
>Subject: Zenith-List: 801 on Full Lotus Floats
Congratulation Bill, To my knowledge, yours will be the first 801 ever to
actually be flown on floats. I hope to follow you one of the days.
Jim Frisby
N801AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | full throttle (back on topic) |
Bing carbs are designed to be able to change the spring from normally open
to normally closed so it's completely application dependant. You can do the
same with any carb if you change the linkage to pull to close and place the
throttle spring (normally return) on so that it pulls the throttle open.
I'll bet you didn't know that on the old 60's and 70's cars that if that
return spring broke the throttle went to wide open from the vacuum of the
engine sucking across the throttle plates.
On a side note, if you fly "standard" aircraft you already know that it's
push to accelerate. So no matter what you decide to do at least configure
your aircraft that way, because when you need it most your mind will react
that way and you may not get a chance to recover from a mistake.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fritz
Gurschick
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: full throttle ??? spin/no spin ?
All--- this is why I keep my post to a minimum--- will do my best not to
make any more, but I have a hard time keeping quiet when it is a saftey
issue.
Let's not "spin" this around---- the orginal question was about-- "Full
throlle at linkage breakeage." Not everyone is
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Air Filter K&N & canopy gue |
Dear Thread Friends, a couple days/ weeks ago these topics came up and I did
not get to post answers because I needed to get the info from the hanger. On
the K&N air filter the manufacture part number I use is 33-2008-1. Got it at
Auto Zone for about $35.00. It fit right into the FWF kit airbox setup without
modification. The second issue was on what kind of goo I used to attach the
rubber seals to the canopy glass. I used 3M Black Super Weather Adhesive. Comes
in a smallish black tube and when dry is black rubber. Sticks like the devil,
but is malleable for a few minutes until it dries. Clean up with lacquer
thinner so you do not dare put the stuff where you have to clean the plastic. Hope
this helps some one, best regards, Bill of Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fritz Gurschick <taffy8706(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | I changed my opinion |
List----after the discussion on "full throttle at linkage breakage", I have evaluated
the comments made and have changed my mind. I feel with the "slower
rev-ing" 4 cycle engines ( and good brakes) the "full throttle at linkage breakage"
is the best way to go.
In all fairness to my earlier thinking ( full throttle being unsafe). I made
that decision when I was using the Rotax 582, which is a quick rev-ing, high
torque engine which will go to full rpm VERY quickly compared to a 4 cycle engine.----
Fritz
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I changed my opinion |
Fritz,
I don't know why Jon hasn't spoken up (www.ch701.com is registered to Jon)
Read his story about carb. springs!!!
http://www.ch701.com/webmaster/Jon/deer%20hunting/jon_crash.htm
(hope you don't mind Jon, your experience is a learning lesson for all
of us!!)
Keith
***********************************************************************************
Fritz Gurschick wrote:
>
>List----after the discussion on "full throttle at linkage breakage", I have evaluated
the comments made and have changed my mind. I feel with the "slower
rev-ing" 4 cycle engines ( and good brakes) the "full throttle at linkage breakage"
is the best way to go.
> In all fairness to my earlier thinking ( full throttle being unsafe). I made
that decision when I was using the Rotax 582, which is a quick rev-ing, high
torque engine which will go to full rpm VERY quickly compared to a 4 cycle engine.----
Fritz
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT Industries
Advanced Engineering & Sciences
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com
************************************
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************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zodie Rocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
| Subject: | I changed my opinion |
Hi Keith and all, I put Jon's story on CH701.com and ch601.org with
Jon's permission. He is willing to share his mistake with everyone in
the hopes that it is never repeated. IF it were not for the spring
change on Jon's 912 he never would have had the accident! Please make
sure that every engine is set to full open if a throttle gets broken, it
is far cheaper to re-build a motor then to replace the plane/Motor/ and
pilot! As for the address on Jon's story, Jon is not a hunter and
wouldn't partake in such a practice, but his plane spiraling through the
tree's making the sound of a 1001 beer cans being crushed all at once
had the effect of clearing that part of the forest of many resident
deer, even to this day!
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
Fritz,
I don't know why Jon hasn't spoken up (www.ch701.com is registered to
Jon)
Read his story about carb. springs!!!
http://www.ch701.com/webmaster/Jon/deer%20hunting/jon_crash.htm
(hope you don't mind Jon, your experience is a learning lesson for all
of us!!)
Keith
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ribb" <dan(at)danribb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: reamer size vs drill bit size |
Carlos, this chart seems to verify the sizes you mention.
http://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm
- Dan
----- Original Message -----
> message posted by: Carlos Sa
> Hello, all
> Could someone tell me what is the correct drill bit size (alphabetic) for
> 5/16" (N?) and 3/8"
> (U?).
> I failed to order the bits when I ordered the reamers, and want to make
> sure I order the right
> bits first time.
> Thanks in advance
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Ruddiman" <pacificpainting(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | May 6th - Zenith Fly-In |
Does anyone know anything about the Zenith Fly-In on May 6th in California. I thought
about driving down from Oregon. Might be a long way to go for a one day
deal.
Dave in Salem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CH701" <701stol(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | May 6th - Zenith Fly-In |
Dave & All,
Here's the Zenith (Quality Sport Planes LLC) link to info on the event:
http://www.qualitysportplanes.com/qsp-2006_036.htm
Todd Henning
West Bend, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Ruddiman
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 12:13 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: May 6th - Zenith Fly-In
-->
Does anyone know anything about the Zenith Fly-In on May 6th in California.
I thought about driving down from Oregon. Might be a long way to go for a
one day deal.
Dave in Salem
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sensenich ground adj prop |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Does anyone have any experience with the Sensenich Carbon Fiber ground adjustable
prop used on a Jabiru 3300 in a 601XL?
Sensenich has a 10% off sale thru the end of April if you order direct from the
factory so I'd like to take advantage of the list's collective wisdom to help
make a purchase decision.
Tim
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - awaiting kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29647#29647
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More 701 brakes |
Zed, I have the plastic tube brake lines on my XL. If I was building again I
would not install it and here is why. When I vigorously apply bakes I am
getting hard pressure, but the plane does not slow as readily as I believe it
should. I think (without any real proof) that some of the pressure is dissipated
by
the general expansion of 14/17 feet of plastic lines and in effect reducing
that to the brake calibers. I fly and land my plane, but I have missed more
than a few turn offs because I simply rolled past them. And I am not happy about
short airports. If I was building or if I ever have to rebuild ( pray Lord I
never have to ) I would install steel lines. FWIW, Best regards, Bill of
Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair engine failure - 04/17/06 |
I wonder if the pilot reached good static PRM while ground testing his
engine.
If he did, than maybe the prop/pitch was not correct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich ground adj prop |
I spoke with the guru at Sensenich last year about this new
product. I believe it has just been made available to customers
recently, so there is not much information floating around. You
might check with Pete at Jabiru since he was involved a little in the
product development.
My understanding is you can get it from 60 to 62 inches and there
might be an option to get a leading edge reinforcement installed at
the factory. My current plan is to order one in the 60 inch length
since this should allow full 3300 rpm use on the Jabiru
3300. According to the guy at Sensenich the 62 inch length is
designed for use to 3200 rpms. (I hope my memory is good on this
point, but I am sure you can confirm the facts with the authorities.)
Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
>Does anyone have any experience with the Sensenich Carbon Fiber
>ground adjustable prop used on a Jabiru 3300 in a 601XL?
>
>Sensenich has a 10% off sale thru the end of April if you order
>direct from the factory so I'd like to take advantage of the list's
>collective wisdom to help make a purchase decision.
>
>Tim
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ribb" <dan(at)danribb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich ground adj prop |
More info here.
http://www.sensenichprop.com/sen_html/carbon_faq-2.pdf
- Dan
----- Original Message -----
> Does anyone have any experience with the Sensenich Carbon Fiber
> ground adjustable prop used on a Jabiru 3300 in a 601XL?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doug kandle <d_kandle(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More 701 brakes |
I found out that if you don't break in the pads as the instructions
state, they don't work very well. When I break in a new set of
linings I taxi 2 or 3 thousand feet with the brakes on. They get hot
and I see sparks coming off of the disks. But after they cool, they
work much better.
---
When I vigorously apply bakes I
> >> > am
> >> > getting hard pressure, but the plane does not slow as readily as I
> > believe
> >> > it
> >> > should. I think (without any real proof) that some of the pressure is
> >> > dissipated by
> >> > the general expansion of 14/17 feet of plastic lines and in effect
> >> > reducing
> >> > that to the brake calibers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beckman, Rick" <Rick.Beckman(at)atk.com> |
Hi, Y'all
If any of you are using the GRT EIS with the
FloScan sensor, would you e-mail me off list, please? I have some
technical questions I need answered. Thanks,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Corvair engine failure - 04/17/06 |
He might have reached a really good static. So high that the prop goes sonic
and the engine can't make it turn any faster and the "bite" to too small to
reach flying speed. It happens. Too flat a pitch is just as bad as too
much pitch.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gpjann(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 3:27 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Corvair engine failure - 04/17/06
>
> I wonder if the pilot reached good static PRM while ground testing his
> engine.
> If he did, than maybe the prop/pitch was not correct.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich ground adj prop |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Thanks. I talked to Pete earlier today and he said that there were at least a
couple of Zenith owners flying behind the new prop. He had generally favorable
comments about the prop when used with Jabiru aircraft and said that about
half the Zenith folks buying Jab 3300's were opting for the new prop.
I was hoping there might be someone on the list who could share their first hand
experiences.
Tim
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - awaiting kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29736#29736
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich ground adj prop |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Oops! I forgot to mention some other info I got while talking with Sensenich -
You might find their comments useful
"We have a 64" two blade propeller for the jabiru 3300 engine.
Propeller is rated at the same rating as the engine: 3300 intermittant,
2850 continuous.
In my opinion, the propeller is fine for 3000 continuous.
Now with the new economy tuning kit, most people with 3300 engines will stay below
2900 because fuel consumption rises by 2 gph at 3000 and above. For the month
of april, our composite aircraft propellers are available direct from the
factory at 10% off.
$1525 retail - $1375 april special cost includes all mounting hardware for propeller.
Normal finish is all white, red tips and flat back face. Alternate solid
colors are: grey and black with white or red tips. Includes nickel leading edge.
Delivery usually runs 2-3 weeks."
Tim
--------
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - awaiting kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29739#29739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Russell <clojan(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Faa inspection passed |
Our experience with the FAA inspector was a good one. The inspection took a couple
of hours and the only problem he had was one prop bolt safety wire was loose.
Should be in the air soon!
Of course, We had to wait about 3 months for this all to occur so learn from
our mistakes.
We went to the local fsdo and was told to bring all paperwork to their office
which we did the next day. A couple of weeks later the inspector called to set
up an appointment and asked if we had registered it with OK. Told him that he
had the paper work. Long story short, The registration must be sent direct to
OK and not the local office before the inspection can be set up. We sent it
off to OK and finally we got the regs back. All the run around took about 2 months
longer than it should have. Just a word of advice, get it registered long
before you think you might be getting to the end. Jack in Los Osos Ca.
Ps. The Inspector was a great guy to work with. Very helpful.
Jack Russell -Clovis CA
601 XL Jabiru 3300
Progress update at:
http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Faa inspection passed |
So Jack, how did she fly ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More 701 brakes |
| From: | Larry Landucci <lllanducci(at)tds.net> |
As Doug Kandle eluded to, proper break-in of the brakes is essential. I
have an 801 and even at gross weight with Zenith-supplied plastic brake
lines I have no trouble stopping. Before the break-in I could not keep
the plane from creeping forward during 1900 rpm mag tests. The
polypropylene lines supplied by Zenith are very hard, unlike many other
plastic types. Another potential problem leading to insufficient
braking is the presence of some air in the brake lines.
Larry Landucci -- N801LL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "george may" <gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Faa inspection passed |
Jack--
Congradulations on passing the inspection. Keep us posted on the flight
results.
George May
601XL 912s---first engine run up complete without a hitch
>From: Jack Russell <clojan(at)sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Faa inspection passed
>Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:06:25 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Our experience with the FAA inspector was a good one. The inspection took a
>couple of hours and the only problem he had was one prop bolt safety wire
>was loose. Should be in the air soon!
> Of course, We had to wait about 3 months for this all to occur so learn
>from our mistakes.
> We went to the local fsdo and was told to bring all paperwork to their
>office which we did the next day. A couple of weeks later the inspector
>called to set up an appointment and asked if we had registered it with OK.
>Told him that he had the paper work. Long story short, The registration
>must be sent direct to OK and not the local office before the inspection
>can be set up. We sent it off to OK and finally we got the regs back. All
>the run around took about 2 months longer than it should have. Just a word
>of advice, get it registered long before you think you might be getting to
>the end. Jack in Los Osos Ca.
> Ps. The Inspector was a great guy to work with. Very helpful.
>
>
>Jack Russell -Clovis CA
>601 XL Jabiru 3300
> Progress update at:
>http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doug kandle <d_kandle(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | 701-Mounting Slats |
I am trying to bolt the slats to my wing. There are two jigs used,
one for the bottom alignment and one for the top gap. But when I
have the bottom set correctly there is too much gap at the top. The
bracket on the wing hits the slat and I can't get them close enough
together to meet all the specs. There is supposed to be a 16 to 18mm
gap between the top of the slat and the top of the wing. But the
closest I can get at the top is about 21mm. All 8 brackets are about
the same. I have already filed down the tops of the brackets so that
there is a 10mm radius around the top hole.
Anyone hit this problem? Any suggestions before I send ZAC a note
and ask if I can reposition the mounting holes and cut down the
bracket (or just have a 20mm gap at the top)?
Doug Kandle
CH701
Boise ID
All Airfoils done
Trying to mount slats
Jabiru 2200
From complete kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I guess I am confused by this question. When I do wing skins, the
clecos go on the outside rather than the inside. The only ones on
the inside are in places that will always be accessible like the
baggage compartment.
Paul
XL wings.
At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:
>This might be a stupid question, but when you turn over the wings
>and cleco top skin on the inside.
>Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go to rivet bottom
>skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
>the inside on the top skin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:701-Mounting Slats |
Doug,
If you lift up slightly at the bottom(or better, slide slat up from bottom a little),
the gap will close at the top slightly and bring it in spec.. The wing
nose skin slightly bulges out on the bottom where it bends around the nose ribs.
This slightly moves the jig on the bottom lower than shown on the plans. Look
at how the brackets on the slats and the wing come together at all 4 points.
There is a natural fit to these. If the slat brackets look like they are sitting
alot lower than the wing brackets this is due to you trying to align the
slat grounded to the jig. This will work on their drawing but in reality I found
it will not work. The drawing is basically showing that if you set the wing
on a table with the slat attached, the slat edge will touch the table. In reality
the slat edge will sit slightly higher than the bottom surface of the wing.
I got 18 mm between the top of wing and slat. Do not cut your brackets or reposition
holes. I did round off the top as you did a
lso. You used separately made jigs to carefully position these brackets on the
slat ribs and the wing nose ribs. They should line up pretty close
in the final assembly.
Brian
701
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
stripped. Is there a good fix?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
Craig,
I would suggest drilling clear thru so you can use a screw long enough
to go thru the opposite
side. Then stub the pointed end so you don't get caught on it. If that
isn't good, go with a recessed head machine screw
and cap-nut the screw as it comes out the other side.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
>
>Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
>stripped. Is there a good fix?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
Paul:
If you cleco the inside of your wingskin, then rivet
the other side, you will have no way to remove the
clecos. You should cleco the skin on the outside,
turn the wing over and use some sort of spacers (2x2's
or metal beams) so the clecos don't hit the table,
then rivet the side that is up. In the case described
below, the bottom is riveted first so the clecos
should be on the outside of the top skin with the wing
resting on spacers. The assembly manual available on
the ZAC builder's page is pretty clear on this.
Some of the questions I read on this list lead me to
believe not everyone knows about the updated assembly
manuals. ZAC will give you the password if you call
them in Mexico, MO.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Wiring my yoke
--- Paul Mulwitz wrote:
> I guess I am confused by this question.
> Paul
> XL wings.
> At 02:56 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:
> >This might be a stupid question, but when you turn
> over the wings
> >and cleco top skin on the inside.
> >Then turn over and do the bottom skin when you go
> to rivet bottom
> >skin on skeleton, how do you remove the clecos from
> >the inside on the top skin.
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Latimer" <jlatimer1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
Graig,
You might try the next larger size screw on the stripped out holes.
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:35 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes?
Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
stripped. Is there a good fix?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
Mel, all of us that have built the wings know the issue and there are
probably as many ways to resolve it as XLs out there. What I did was build the
wing
on top of two 12 foot steel I-beams that I mounted semi permeant on my 12x4
building table. I got them level with a digital level and each time I flipped the
wings it took two folks and we lifted high enough to clear the bottom
inverted clecos and re set so the clecos cleared the beams. I built the whole wing
without riveting until all skins and holes were ready. Then I riveted the bottom
(minus flap attachment area where I inserted clecos up side down), top skin,
then nose skin, then tip. I'm sure it can be accomplished other ways, but the
beams assured everything was square and plum. best regards, Bill of Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
Craig, I don't know if this is the "approved' method, but I did one by
putting JB Weld in the hole and a little on the threads of the screw and re screwed
until it was set. Now I have not removed that screw so I am not sure I can,
but expect I won't have to unless the canopy has to be replaced then the screw
will be the least of worries. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Miller" <tutuzulu(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
If you use JBWeld, just wrap a single layer of plumber's Teflon tape
around the screw before inserting, tight so the threads are defined
thru the tape. You can then pack the JBWeld into the covered threads
and put it into the hole. I once made a bolt hole in a rock this way,
and it held strong!
Bob
BTW Bill, great meeting you at the BBQ. I still chuckle at the story
about the fuel flood!
On 4/22/06, JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Craig, I don't know if this is the "approved' method, but I did one by
> putting JB Weld in the hole and a little on the threads of the screw and re screwed
> until it was set. Now I have not removed that screw so I am not sure I can,
> but expect I won't have to unless the canopy has to be replaced then the screw
> will be the least of worries. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
>
>
--
Bob Miller
601HD N722Z
Charlottesville, Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Gates <leogates(at)allvantage.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to do about stripped canopy screw holes? |
Craig,
If you go the JB Weld route, just put some Vaseline on the screw
threads. The JB Weld will not stick to the threads then and will make
perfect threaded holes. IMHO the Teflon tape method will work, but more
work.
Leo Gates
N601Z
Craig Payne wrote:
>
>Some of the holes in my canopy frame for the screws holding the bubble are
>stripped. Is there a good fix?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Vetterli <richvetterli(at)yahoo.com> |
For sale, both brand new in the box as received from
Aircraft Spruce. #1 - Airspeed Indicator, Falcon,
ASI160M-3, P/N 10-02917, 3, 0-160. List for
$114.95, will let it go for $90.00. #2 - Altitude
Encoder, Ameri-King, AK-350. Lists for $149.95, will
sell for $120.00. Check out details at ASS. E-mail
me off-line if interested. First offer gets them and
Ill pay shipping.
Rich Vetterli
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 701 Header tank installation |
| From: | "Geoff Heap" <stol10(at)comcast.net> |
Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
Thanks to all......Geoff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30077#30077
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701(at)internet.is> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 Header tank installation |
Hello Geoff.
I installed a D header tank and had help with removing the filler cap.
Then I installed a vent that extends up to the right wing around the
hight of the wing tank. No gauges in the wing tanks but only in the D
tank. I never liked the sight glass system. Installed the VDO fuel level
sensor and am using the Stratomaster EM2 gauge for instruments. Also
installed the fuel flow system which is very nice to have. Tells me
exactly how much time I have of fuel or how many miles to fly base on
the Rotax 912 fuel consumptions and the present rpm.
I have one fuel pump located behind the seats which I use to transfere
fuel from the wing tank to the header tank. I can see when the fuel is
out in the wing tanks by a clear tubes from the wings to the fuel shut
of valve located on the flaperon rod cover behind the pax/pilots head. I
can send you some pictues of this setup.
Look under Zenith, fuselage page 6. There you will see my tank
installation. See my homepage: www.gi.is/fis
If you need more pictues, please let me know.
I am very happy with this installation.
Regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Z701/Joeing701
Geoff Heap wrote:
>
>Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
> Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
> Thanks to all......Geoff.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 Header tank installation |
Geoff,
You might be interested in the Header Tank page on my site,
www.macsmachine.com. The page is a descriptive of
the installation from making the tank to all views for supporting it
before the skins were on the plane.
My header is only about 9-gallons, but the principal is the same. If
you need other info, just ask.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Geoff Heap wrote:
>
>Guys. I could use help with installing my header tank. I originally started from
plans only in 1991 and at that time the wing tank size was much smaller than
at present. They hold a total of about 14 gallon. My wings were finished years
ago and I don't feel like ripping them apart so I got ZAC to build me a half
size "D" tank that holds about 6 gallon. Problem is the new plans don't consider
a header tank behind the panel. If anyone has seen plans from 1991 ......well
they leave a lot to be desired. I would appreciate photos from anyone who
has fitted a header. Come Monday I'll give ZAC a call to see if the have anything
better.
> Would appreciate comments/opinions on the sight glass versus a gage.
> Thanks to all......Geoff.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30077#30077
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
Hello All:
Regarding wings and any part of the aircraft that you would
like to build true. It is imperative that the building table is flat with no
twist or humps in it. My table is a welded truss frame that will not twist.
Any spacers that are used to hold clecoed wings or other parts should also be
parallel and true. How flat and true (within 1/32 over 12 feet, if you want
the plane to fly straight)?
Regards, John Read, Starting a CH701
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Gary,
that is interesting, our projects seem to run totally parallel. I am working on
the (1st) wing of my HDS TD VW Project. I thought I am the last to build this
"dinosaur" [Wink]
However, I did flip over once for now. Clecoed the skeleton and rear top skin, then flipped over onto a super simple holding device made out of scrapped shelves and some lumber , I had lying around. (see: http://www.petersprojekt42.de/PDRM0114_JPG_view.htm ) took about half an hour to complete. I ripped the contour from the second pair of rear ribs I have. Totally true and level and gives me the opportunity to move the assebly around on the table. I intend to complete the whole thing in clecos before I start riveting.
Best Regards from Germany
Peter Barthold
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30310#30310
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Crvsecretary(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rivets for Aileron bellcrank bracket |
Hello All:
I finally caught up in reading a lot of posts that have come in over the
past two weeks and I have a concern about the A5 rivets coming loose on the
aileron bellcrank support P/N 6W6-11. I see these brackets are held to the Rear
Rib # 7 with (3) each A5 rivets. As the bracket receives force from the
control cables through the bellcrank the brackets are pulled in to the rib, but
as the bellcrank transmits that force to the aileron the brackets are
receiving shear forces and transmitting that load through the A5 rivets to the
rib.
My question is: I do not understand the forces involved here to cause those
rivets to fail in this location. Are rivets by design stronger in shear than
in tension? I don't see a lot on tension force here - what am I missing?
Also, are AN bolts stronger than rivets in this situation? No, I am NOT
doubting the designer here, I'm just trying to understand this situation.
Can't you tell I am at this point in wing construction?
Thank you everyone for the suggestions, directions, and contributions made
on this list for the benefit of everyone.
Best Regards,
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N5SL <nfivesl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets for Aileron bellcrank bracket |
Tracy:
I did this:
March 29, 2006 - April 24, 2006
Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-fn