Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-gm
February 07, 2007 - February 20, 2007
>
>I guess my choices at this point are whether to
>settle for the current limit of 20 degrees or
>demand or design a larger deflection.
>
>Paul
>XL fuselage
>
>
>At 02:58 PM 2/7/2007, you wrote:
>>
>>Paul--
>> I fought the same issue when I built my
>> flaps. I could not get the 30 degrees. I ended
>> up with 26 degrees. Based on previous comments
>> on trim issues, I enlarged my elevator trim tab
>> to full span. I can trim out flaps up to about
>> 18-20 degrees. With full flap deflection I need to hold back stick
>>
>>George May
>>zodiac 912s 44 hours
>>
>>
>>>From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
>>>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Zenith-List: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection.
>>>Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 12:18:08 -0800
>>>
>>>
>>>I have been fighting with the flap actuator
>>>motor on my XL and come up with a strange set
>>>of design conflicts. The deflection called for
>>>on sheet 6-S-3 calls for 30 degrees maximum
>>>deflection, but the design shown on 6-B-19 can
>>>only produce about 20 degrees of deflection.
>>>
>>>I spoke to Caleb at ZAC today and he promised
>>>to look into this issue and get back to me. I
>>>also wanted to ask list members if anyone has
>>>run into this problem already. What flap
>>>deflection have builders who finished their
>>>XLs get? A related question (according to
>>>Caleb) is whether the elevator trim can
>>>neutralize the pitch changes with full flaps.
>>>
>>>I would appreciate any information related to XL flap deflection.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Paul
>>>XL fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>-
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo
>>buy and sell with people you know
>>
>>
>>
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Paul Mulwitz
>32013 NE Dial Road
>Camas, WA 98607
>---------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection. |
where I have an issue is on eleveator deflection, as I am only getting 26 degrees
up elevator, any thoughts or similar issues out there?
JUan
-----Original Message-----
>From: george may <gfmjr_20(at)HOTMAIL.COM>
>Sent: Feb 7, 2007 5:58 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection.
>
>
>Paul--
> I fought the same issue when I built my flaps. I could not get the 30
>degrees. I ended up with 26 degrees. Based on previous comments on trim
>issues, I enlarged my elevator trim tab to full span. I can trim out flaps
>up to about 18-20 degrees. With full flap deflection I need to hold back
>stick
>
>George May
>zodiac 912s 44 hours
>
>
>>From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
>>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Zenith-List: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection.
>>Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 12:18:08 -0800
>>
>>
>>
>>I have been fighting with the flap actuator motor on my XL and come up with
>>a strange set of design conflicts. The deflection called for on sheet
>>6-S-3 calls for 30 degrees maximum deflection, but the design shown on
>>6-B-19 can only produce about 20 degrees of deflection.
>>
>>I spoke to Caleb at ZAC today and he promised to look into this issue and
>>get back to me. I also wanted to ask list members if anyone has run into
>>this problem already. What flap deflection have builders who finished
>>their XLs get? A related question (according to Caleb) is whether the
>>elevator trim can neutralize the pitch changes with full flaps.
>>
>>I would appreciate any information related to XL flap deflection.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Paul
>>XL fuselage
>>
>>
>>-
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people
>you know
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Saad Mahaini" <n5ff(at)tx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 583 engine package |
Hey David, I enjoyed looking at the photos and mainly the link to Lodi
(the
DZ). I jumped there for few years in the late 80s and early 90s before
moving to Texas. I still jump but have not been back in Lodi to visit
Bill
and Kathy for many years so please tell them I said hello. I plan to
stop by
this summer over a weekend and make a few jumps, so I will look you up
and
take a closer look at your toys. Blue skies, Saad
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Mikesell
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 11:56 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rotax 583 engine package
Rotax 583 90hp engine, both carbs, cdi unit (about 65 hrs tsn), 0 time
new
items include GPL starter, C box, tuned exhaust, Grand Rapids EIS with
fuel
flow and coolant pressure options. . Asking $ 6000 for all. Removed Rans
S12
new owner wanted 912, over $8000 invested.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filling in the rib ends? |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
TxDave wrote:
> Hey Andy,
>
> I'm assuming you're talking about the small gap left at the trailing edge of
the control surfaces. If so, when I first started building I worried what to do
about it. I went to a hanger and looked at production aircraft (Cessna, Beech,
etc). I noticed they also had gaps between the aft end of the various control
surface ribs and the trailing edge skin. Even a multi-million dollar Pilatus
PC-12 had gaps. Attached is a photo of a Cessna 150 flap showing a pretty large
gap.
>
> If I misunderstood what you were describing, then ...never mind.
>
> Dave Clay
Actually, I believe it's preferable to leave them open for drainage just in case
water does get in there. It's not suppose to, but it can. It'd have to be perfectly
sealed (welded) to never get moisture in there. The entire structure is
link a fuel tank that breathes. Air is always going to get in there, and with
it, humidity. You want that moisture to make it way back out too. Not only breathing
of the structure but also, outright leakage, like with a car door. They
always have drain holes at the bottom, or at least should. For appearances
sake (and to cut down on rain water getting in in the first place), I'd say it's
ok to fill the top gaps of say the rudder, but the bottom should be open, because
the fuel tank-like structure will always breath in moisture and you don't
want that moisture staying in there, you want it to run out.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93619#93619
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator trim servo |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
I'm thinking of using something other than an expenive Ray Allen unit. Any suggestions?
Is there a specific weight limit for how heavy the trim servo can be?
Obviously I want to install something that's light as possible and yet still
up to the task.
Thanks
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93633#93633
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling plastic lens |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
shilocom(at)mcmsys.com wrote:
> Here are three methods that have worked for me.
>
> 1 Buy bits made for drilling Plexiglas
> 2. Use any standard bit, BUT.. sharpen it BACKWARDS. This means grind the
> "rake" backwards. Normally a bit is ground with the cutting edge "higher"
> than the relieved, trailing edge. Grind it backwards by making the "cutting
> edge", lower than the trailing edge. The bit has to "burn" it's way thru
> the Plexiglas, rather than "cut" it's way thru.
> 3. Run a drill backwards?
>
> Bob U.
>
> This probably works well. Often times going through steel with say a 1/4" bit,
the bit grabs just as it's about to go break through the metal and then screws
it's way through on the burrs on the backside. If that was plastic, thats the
point that the plastic would shatter. Being that it was metal, drill at that
point starts screwing it's way through the backside burns. I'll often run the
drill backwards and break the burrs, sometimes it even drills it's way through
that last .5% while running backwards. Even if it doesn't, it wears the burrs
off of the backside and then allows me to finish drilling running the proper
direction withouth grabbing.
>
>
> ---
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93647#93647
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
Mr Ashontz,
I'd recommend you reconsider Ray Allen Mac Trim Systems as they have
product for trim switches, stick grips with switches, rocker
switches and position indicators that are designed to work with each
other. Expensive or not, it's easier than doing a
servo that will either not fit the space needed or work with the other
components or have the force function or operating voltage
or distance throw that you need. I'd recommend you go with a company
that has worked all that out ahead of time.
It's more than one component and if you decide to do the R&D, you should
plan on adding another year or more working on your plane.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
ashontz wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of using something other than an expenive Ray Allen unit. Any suggestions?
Is there a specific weight limit for how heavy the trim servo can be?
Obviously I want to install something that's light as possible and yet still
up to the task.
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> CH601XL - Corvair
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93633#93633
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
larry(at)macsmachine.com wrote:
> Mr Ashontz,
> I'd recommend you reconsider Ray Allen Mac Trim Systems as they have
> product for trim switches, stick grips with switches, rocker
> switches and position indicators that are designed to work with each
> other. Expensive or not, it's easier than doing a
> servo that will either not fit the space needed or work with the other
> components or have the force function or operating voltage
> or distance throw that you need. I'd recommend you go with a company
> that has worked all that out ahead of time.
> It's more than one component and if you decide to do the R&D, you should
> plan on adding another year or more working on your plane.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> ashontz wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'm thinking of using something other than an expenive Ray Allen unit. Any
suggestions? Is there a specific weight limit for how heavy the trim servo can
be? Obviously I want to install something that's light as possible and yet still
up to the task.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --------
> > CH601XL - Corvair
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93633#93633
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Thanks. However, I like making stuff and have an idea using a little motor assembly like this (http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1646.html). If I'm not mistaken, 46 in-oz of torque is 4lbs applied at one inch, that's actually a lot or torque, enough to easily drive a 1/4 bolt through a all-thread connector sliding through a square hole and attached to the elevator trim bellcrank. At 20 threads per inch, at 62rpm and about 1/2" deflection needed that would translate to about 9 seconds to travel the full range of deflection.
Working in mm a 1/4inch bolt is 6.35mm in diameter which gives a circumference
of 19.9, roughly 20:1, so the fulcrum action of the thread would be a multiplier
of 20 or 46oz times 20, or almost 80pounds.
This unit is nice in that it's got all the multiplicative torque needed and as
metal gears, and weighs hardly anything, and only costs $23 to boot. Making an
aluminum housing for this badboy would be a piece of cake. I just may have to
give it a try at that price.
Unless my math is off, this seems like it fits well within the parameters of the
Ray Allen component at a tenth the price.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93659#93659
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/ractrimservos.php
SERVOS ONLY
RAC Servo Sys. Part No. Output Shaft Movement Travel Time Price Buy
T2-7A 11-02048 0.7 in. 10 sec. $127.95 ($157.38CAN)
T2-10A 11-02058 1.0 in. 16 sec. $127.95 ($157.38CAN)
T3-12A 11-02065 1.2 in. 19 sec. $149.95 ($184.44CAN)
T4-5 11-02066 0.5 in. 15 sec. $193.95 ($238.56CAN)
I wouldn't be surprised if ray allen is using a very similar looking arrangement
internally as what I'm describing. I guess $127 for just the servo itself isn't
too bad. I may still try it though. Ray Allen's motor is probably a 5v motor
with a voltage divider in it. The travel and time is nearly exactly the same
though as well as the output force.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93670#93670
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brucealee" <brucealee(at)comcast.net> |
That's why I feel Beechcraft are the toughest, most overbuilt GA aircraft in the
world. I've owned 2 of them and don't regret either one. If that happened in
a Piper, Cessna or one of the newer plastic planes, you would be looking at a
smoking hole. Just my .02
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93676#93676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Administrator <admin(at)arachnidrobotics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
You can usually pick up the Ray Allen servo on Ebay for less than $100, including
the indicator and pushrod.
I'm thinking of using something other than an expenive Ray Allen unit. Any suggestions?
Is there a specific weight limit for how heavy the trim servo can be?
Obviously I want to install something that's light as possible and yet still
up to the task.
Thanks
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93633#93633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hans van Riet <hansinla(at)mac.com> |
Hi Gang,
I just ordered the Rudder starter kit to see if I'm fit to build a
601Xl (preferably on amphibian floats).
I've been studying tons of web resources and admired many projects.
One thing strikes me as odd though and maybe your collective wisdom
can shed some light on this:
I see double throttles on many panels. Why is this done? Would one
central throttle with the dual stick option not be sufficient?
Thanks,
Hans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Is anyone else having trouble getting their parts from WW.
601 XL engine on floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wade jones" <wjones(at)brazoriainet.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling wing spars |
Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar and
the wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a 9/32
drill bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he has
recently completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from fellow
scratch builders that may help me on this task would be greatly
appreciated . Thanks
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: |
My opinion only here..... I view the dual throttle linkage as an unnecessary complication.
One center throttle with a friction lock should be totally adequate.
I learned to fly in a C-150 with my left hand on the yoke and my right on the
throttle. Later, I flew an ultralight with my right hand on the stick and my
left hand on the throttle. The moral? It's as easy to fly well one way as the
other.
I like the dual sticks precisely because it allows me to change hands as needed
to reach and operate switches and buttons anywhere on the panel. If I'm going
to use that benefit, I can ceratinly tolerate the single center located throttle.
Dred
---- Hans van Riet wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> I just ordered the Rudder starter kit to see if I'm fit to build a
> 601Xl (preferably on amphibian floats).
> I've been studying tons of web resources and admired many projects.
> One thing strikes me as odd though and maybe your collective wisdom
> can shed some light on this:
>
> I see double throttles on many panels. Why is this done? Would one
> central throttle with the dual stick option not be sufficient?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Hans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Yes if you have the dual sticks a single throttle will be fine. The reason you
see the dual throttles are needed to fly from either side of the center stick
version which is standard.
Also, a lot of folks with dual sticks want to be able to fly with the right hand
on the stick and the left on the throttle.
BTW... Welcome to the Zenith family.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93742#93742
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
Just out of curiosity, what kind of problems are you having with them? I'm going
with the Corvair myself too.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93748#93748
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
hansinla(at)mac.com wrote:
> Hi Gang,
>
> I just ordered the Rudder starter kit to see if I'm fit to build a
> 601Xl (preferably on amphibian floats).
> I've been studying tons of web resources and admired many projects.
> One thing strikes me as odd though and maybe your collective wisdom
> can shed some light on this:
>
> I see double throttles on many panels. Why is this done? Would one
> central throttle with the dual stick option not be sufficient?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Hans
The main problem with that is, the hand in the center will also be on the control
stick, so it's either dual sticks and one throttle or one stick and dual throttles.
Personally, I'd rather have the dual sticks and the throttle in the
center. More ergonamic in a lot of respects.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93751#93751
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
brothapig(at)HOTMAIL.COM wrote:
> Is anyone familiar with the "Central Machinery" brand of sheet metal brake sold
by Harbor Freight, part number 46508-1VGA? It is a 40" brake that looks solid
enough for aluminum sheet metal (advertises up to 16 gauge steel), and is
only $100.
>
> I'm interested because I just started to scratch build, and I don't have a brake
yet. I will be building my own 8 ft brake when I need it, but this seems
like it would be very nice to have in the shop; handy, light, and maneuverable.
(and cheap)
>
> I hope someone out there has at least tried it. I'm interested if it puts a
radius on the bend, and if not, if it's possible to modify it to put a radius
on it.
>
> Ryan
Check out my homemade brake.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93754#93754
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
When I ordered my engine, which WW is building, a couple of weeks ago he gave me
a 6 to 8 week turnaround time. I took it with a grain of salt when he told me
he had 4 other engines ahead of me.
Have you called him about your parts?
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93757#93757
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
He has out right lied to me about when he would be shipping my parts to me.
I have called Zenith and they are calling him to try to help. He keeps telling
me he will ship them this week. That has been going on since DEC.
I would not go with the corvair again. I have nothing against the engine, in
fact I really like it but William doesn't know how to run a business.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
I plan on rebuilding the engine myself so if he can just ship a book to me without
a lot of hassle that'll be good enough for me. Just looking at him, he seems
to be exceptionally intelligent, kind of like the absentminded professor that
forgets to put his pants on. I'm sure he knows exactly what he's doing when
it comes to engineering, aviation, and the Corvair in particular, like you said
though, he may be a little off on the business end of things, but that because
his head is literally and figuratively in the clouds. Can't blame him for
that. :)
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93763#93763
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
He called me last week and told me about a guy that was selling a FWF for
8,000.00. I thought that was strange since he still hasn't sent me the parts I
had ordered from him. He also said he has no idea when the nose bowls would be
done since the new guy he got to make them isn't making them due to the fact
that he got a larger order from another company. I honestly think he is
building yesterday parts with today's money.
I heard of 1 guy that has waited a year for a nose bowl and is pleading with
someone to help him find one so he can finish his project. Guys this is very
sad.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
On the flip side of that, most of your avionics and what not are in the center
of the panel for convenience as well as visibilities sake for both people in the
plane, so you'll want a free right hand to access them. Also, if you're right
handed, you'll want your right hand free to write ATC notes or whatever.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93766#93766
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
He also told me the he was behind because some old guy was hanging around
and bugging him for his engine that William was building. He said now he would
get caught up... I just wonder if the guy was hanging around because he was
sick and tired of the delays. I would be very careful sending your money to
him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I agree with you 100% he is a brilliant man no doubt but the bottom line is
I gave him my money and he made me one promise after another that he didn't
follow thru with.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Mikesell" <skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
William is actually a very upstanding guy. He is pretty honest and does
great work. One thing I found in dealing with him is that he is a very
very bad estimater on things in relation to time. He is really trying
and he believes he will finish with his product on time, he is just
estimating about 1/2 as many hours as required.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
I agree with you 100% he is a brilliant man no doubt but the bottom
line is I gave him my money and he made me one promise after another
that he didn't follow thru with.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one week
then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due in a few
days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me. Now that
my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
[quote="Afterfxllc(at)aol.com"]I would agree with you except he told me my mount
would be shipped one week then the next week I called and he told me the metal
shipment was due in a few days and he would be building it that week and
then ship it for me. Now that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
> [b]
Maybe he just needs more help.
Is it safe to say that at least ordering the book should be no problem?
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93800#93800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Stecher" <mrcc1234(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is not
a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the
delete key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He
has made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to
still be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to
none and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He
posts every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety
and experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are being
converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small and
keep from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me. He
may even still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world we
live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some things
are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne,
the EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have
learned to trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:04 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one
week then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due
in a few days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me.
Now that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Turnquist <ter_turn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I have an xtra never been used WW Corvair manual which I'll get in the mail asap
to whomever wants to save ten bucks.
email me offline.
Terry Turnquist
601-XL Plans
St. Peters, MO
Matt Stecher wrote:
Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is not
a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the delete
key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He has
made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to still
be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to none and
for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He posts
every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety and
experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are being
converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small and keep
from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me. He may even
still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world we
live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some things are
worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne, the
EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have learned to
trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one week then
the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due in a few
days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me. Now that my
friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
You must only read what you want and then chime in on the rest. I don't give
a shift about his track record or how many people he has helped in the past.
If the man can't do what he says he is a liar. I gave him my money in good
faith and he assured me my parts would be ready when I needed them and so far
he has let me down. If I order a kit from zenith and they tell me it will be
ready on a certain date I would bet you it would be. With William he just
tells you what you need to hear to get your money and if you can't tell yes I
am
pissed.
In a message dated 2/8/2007 7:44:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mrcc1234(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is not
a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the
delete key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He
has made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to
still be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to
none and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He
posts every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety
and experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are being
converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small and
keep from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me. He
may even still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world we
live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some things
are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne,
the EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have learned
to trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Does any one have the specs. and process details for building and testing
the dual points distributor?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Stecher
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:40 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is
not a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the
delete key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He
has made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to
still be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to
none and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He
posts every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety
and experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going
in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are
being converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small
and keep from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me.
He may even still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world
we live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some
things are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne,
the EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have
learned to trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:04 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one
week then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due
in a few days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me.
Now that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Ray" <davgray(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
If anybody is unhappy with what WW is offering with respect to products
or timing then it would make sense to ask for a refund and go your
separate way. We will all be happier.
Gary Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
You must only read what you want and then chime in on the rest. I
don't give a shift about his track record or how many people he has
helped in the past. If the man can't do what he says he is a liar. I
gave him my money in good faith and he assured me my parts would be
ready when I needed them and so far he has let me down. If I order a kit
from zenith and they tell me it will be ready on a certain date I would
bet you it would be. With William he just tells you what you need to
hear to get your money and if you can't tell yes I am pissed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Gary,
how about you buy my 1/2 completed FWF and then work with William to get the
other 1/2 of your parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Would I have had this problem with Lycoming? The higher price is well worth
the piece of mind. Half my parts won't get me in the air no matter how much I
saved.
In a message dated 2/8/2007 9:49:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
If anybody is unhappy with what WW is offering with respect to products or
timing then it would make sense to ask for a refund and go your separate way.
We will all be happier.
Gary Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Locking Latch part numbers |
I think almost all the part numbers are shown in the photo assembly guide.
Many of the part numbers used by Zenith are the manufacture's part numbers.
For example search www.mcmaster.com for 1226A62 you will find the latch for
$13.87. But I found it easier to just order all the parts from Zenith.
These came from Zenith:
1 - Latch w/key 1226A62
2 - Strap Fork End P/N SA262-2 (Wicks and Spruce have SA362-2 also known as
NAS1435)
1 - Inside knob (no part number) - *not* the same knob used in the
non-locking latch
4 - Nicopress 871-1-C (but only 2 go at the latch-end of the cables - Wicks
has these)
These I had to order from Spruce:
2 - clevis pins for strap forks - AN393-7
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I don"t know if this will help ,but I'am going through the samething with
my eng. builder.It's enough to make you makeyou want to kill, What can you
do, they got your money.. I think that none of them have a nodding
acqaintance with the truth. It's part of there job description. What a
joke....Just send more money
joe 601 XL P.S. been on the two yard line for 3 mo....
----- Original Message -----
From: "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems
>
> [quote="Afterfxllc(at)aol.com"]I would agree with you except he told me my
> mount would be shipped one week then the next week I called and he told
> me the metal shipment was due in a few days and he would be building it
> that week and then ship it for me. Now that my friend was a bold face
> lie.
> What he needs is competition.
>
>> [b]
>
>
> Maybe he just needs more help.
>
> Is it safe to say that at least ordering the book should be no problem?
>
> --------
> CH601XL - Corvair
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93800#93800
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BadBob" <badbob0007(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I ordered the engine manual and it didn't take long to arrive. I ordered
one of his (William Wynne)DVD's and received the wrong one by mistake. I
was told to mail it back. I received the new one with a $5.00 bill
inside to cover the return postage on the first one! Does that sound
like a liar and a crook to you? A friend of mine sent his Piper engine
to a certified rebuild shop.....and it took MONTHS to get it back!
I for one can wait for things to arrive. I am sorry for those that
can't. Perhaps airplanes aren't a good hobby for those. It can take
months to get a quick built from Vans, and he gets a chunk of your money
up front also.
Just my thoughts,
Bob from Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Bob,
With all due respect... I don't mind waiting for parts, I had to wait for 2
months to get my heads back from falcon and that was fine with me because Mark
told me he was behind and when he could get to them. When it came about time
to expect them I called Mark and he told me there was a slight delay and I
should be getting them in a couple of weeks. I called Mark in a couple of
weeks and he had just shipped them as promised. That my friend is the way you
run
a business. He didn't lie and say next week and next week and next week he
was up front and honest about when he could get them done.
If William had told me it would be 3 months before I would see my parts then
so be it, but that was not the case. When someone gives me his word that is
what I expect to happen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Also WW is one of the only people that require all of the money up front
when you order parts. And as far as the manual and DVD Grace handles that part
of things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I will tell you that I spoke to Gordon tonight and he said he spoke to
William and I should have my parts By this Saturday. I have someone that is going
to pick them up I will let you know the outcome but I am not holding my
breath.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Administrator <admin(at)arachnidrobotics.com> |
| Subject: | WW: Okay, We get it! |
Isn't there a Corvair list this might be more appropriate for? I understand
your frustration. I think we ALL do after the fifth post.
Afterfxllc(at)aol.com wrote: Would I have had this problem with Lycoming? The
higher price is well worth the piece of mind. Half my parts won't get me in
the air no matter how much I saved.
In a message dated 2/8/2007 9:49:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
writes:
If anybody is unhappy with what WW is offering with respect to products
or timing then it would make sense to ask for a refund and go your separate
way. We will all be happier.
Gary Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Bellach" <601zv(at)ritternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
What parts do you have, for how much $?
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
Gary,
how about you buy my 1/2 completed FWF and then work with William to
get the other 1/2 of your parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
...What he needs is competition..
OK.you made your point...If that's the way you feel, then go for it!! I
suspect you will spend 4 years in college, 5 years in the industry gaining
knowledge and experience, and several more years perfecting your
business..see you in 2019.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one week
then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due in a
few days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me. Now
that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ross <coross(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 50 Msgs - 02/08/07 |
Yes. I ordered one about a month ago and received it within a week.
Chris Ross
Weighing Options
>Maybe he just needs more help.
>
>Is it safe to say that at least ordering the book should be no problem?
>
>--------
>CH601XL - Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dominguez <bill_dom(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
What WW need is a good parts distributor. Someone who could buy his inventory
wholesale and then retail it and keep track of back orders. In this case William
would concentrate on making parts and give support, and the distributor will
conentrate on resell and distribution. I don't know how close to production
cost WW sell his parts, if this is the case, such distributor will have to
raise prices a little bit. So, is there anyone with some cash, ready for a business
oportunity. The hardes part would be convincing WW.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami, Florida
Gary Boothe wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui)
} ..What he needs is competition.
OKyou made your point..If thats the way you feel, then go for it!! I suspect
you will spend 4 years in college, 5 years in the industry gaining knowledge
and experience, and several more years perfecting your business.see you in
2019.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
---------------------------------
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:04 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped one
week then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment was due in
a few days and he would be building it that week and then ship it for me. Now
that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling plastic lens |
| From: | caspainhower(at)aep.com |
Instead of buying special bits or sharpening them backwards why not just
use a unibit? They are fast and make a perfect hole with no chance of
cracking the plastic/plexi. Every builder should have at least on set of
unibits.
Craig
N601XS, 601xl, lyc 0-235, completing FWF, ready for wiring.
> Here are three methods that have worked for me.
>
> 1 Buy bits made for drilling Plexiglas
> 2. Use any standard bit, BUT.. sharpen it BACKWARDS. This means grind
the
> "rake" backwards. Normally a bit is ground with the cutting edge
"higher"
> than the relieved, trailing edge. Grind it backwards by making the
"cutting
> edge", lower than the trailing edge. The bit has to "burn" it's way thru
> the Plexiglas, rather than "cut" it's way thru.
> 3. Run a drill backwards
----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom skins and on
and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin is even messed with? Anybody
have and timelines as to when they did all they internal work.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93909#93909
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Wacker" <ccwacker(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
If you go with the dual sticks you can have one throttle in the center of
the panel. This is what i am doing. If you go with thestock center stick
setup the center throttle would be a pain to use. That is why the center
stick has two throttles on both sides of the cockpit.
Chuck Wacker
610XL Quick Build
>From: Hans van Riet <hansinla(at)mac.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 10:57:41 -0800
>
>
>Hi Gang,
>
>I just ordered the Rudder starter kit to see if I'm fit to build a 601Xl
>(preferably on amphibian floats).
>I've been studying tons of web resources and admired many projects.
>One thing strikes me as odd though and maybe your collective wisdom can
>shed some light on this:
>
>I see double throttles on many panels. Why is this done? Would one central
>throttle with the dual stick option not be sufficient?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Hans
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live
Spaces
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Valentine" <mgvalentine(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
I did most of my stuff after riveting the bottom skin. I would drill your
entire top skin to A5, finish the wing tip, and then have at it. I also
worked on my nose skin and fuel tank before running the wires/tubes.
I bought nylon conduit from Vans and ran it the length of the wing just
behind the baggage locker. (On that note - make sure you know where the
back of the locker is before you run your wires so that they are clear.) I
ran this conduit about an inch below the top of the wing. I ran tubing for
AOA/pitot near the bottom. The big conduit used grommets 931-14-20 (I think
- that is from memory - the 14-20 is definitely right). The conduit is
fantastic for easily running wires. You can cut small holes in it along the
way if you are installing aileron trim or a heated pitot.
Have fun.
Michael in NH
- finishing the second wing this weekend come hell or high water
On 2/9/07, ashontz wrote:
>
>
> When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom skins
> and on and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin is even
> messed with? Anybody have and timelines as to when they did all they
> internal work.
>
> --------
> CH601XL - Corvair
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BadBob" <badbob0007(at)earthlink.net> |
I re-read my post and it had a little 'bite' to it that I didn't intend.
I guess I should 'proof read' my comments! LOL How do I get hold of
Falcon to get some head work done?
Thanks,
Bob form Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
With one of the cruise controls off a Goldwing?
In a message dated 2/9/2007 8:31:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Larry(at)portouw.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Portouw"
Stray voltage (It's early). Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the
stick? -
601zv(at)ritternet.com wrote:
> Me too. I was mistakenly thinking of the single center stick situation - a
> bit of mind warp apparently translated dual stick into single stick. I'm
> doing the single stick and don't see a practical way to avoid the dual
> throttle.
>
> Do not archive.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
I did the wiring and plumbing after the bottom skin was
riveted. This was the point when I installed the navigation lights
and strobes as well as the pitot and LRI probes.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 06:38 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>
>When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom
>skins and on and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin
>is even messed with? Anybody have and timelines as to when they did
>all they internal work.
>
>--------
>CH601XL - Corvair
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
I've ordered three items from WW. First, the manual a couple of years ago. I got
it in a week or two.
4 or 5 months ago I ordered the engine mount. Got it in 3 weeks.
Then I called him in October to talk about ordering a complete engine. We talked
on the phone for over 30 minutes most of which was spent with him trying to
talk me out of him building my engine. He talked me into going to the Corvair
College that was happening the next month. I learned a lot. Got to fly in a few
Corvair powered aircraft.
In the end I decided that while I could do it if I had to I would be better off
with him building my engine. As I said before I took the 6 to 8 weeks quote with
a grain of salt.
I also figured this out. WW is an engineer he's not a salesman and he isn't an
organizational whiz. If I could give him one piece of business advise it would
be to hire a manager and let the manager do the scheduling and delivery time
quotes.
His operation is basically a 2 or 3 man, 1 woman and 1 cat shop. His sales have
increased dramatically, he is still doing R&D on many of the things he is going
to offer and a lot of the stuff that goes into his product comes from other
sources that he doesn't have a lot of control over.
If you didn't understand this going in YOU didn't do your homework.
I'd be willing to bet that if you had called him and placed your order and he had
told you that he wasn't sure when you would get the product you would have
been on here bitching that WW dosen't have a product and the whole Corvair engine
thing is hype.
If you can't live with the delays I'd suggest you go with a Lycoming, Rotax or
Jabariu.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93955#93955
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Well since I am building a zenith it is appropriately directed.
In a message dated 2/9/2007 10:05:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
601zv(at)ritternet.com writes:
Convincing WW that he needs a middleman to increase prices would be
impossible. He is quite aware that the problem is with production and that the
time
and cost involved in the distribution part is insignificant in comparison.
This thread has been hashed over and rehashed many times on the Corvair list,
and related posts would more appropriately be directed there instead to the
Zenith list.
Just my 2-cents worth.
Do not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I also saw a dual point that was for the corvair that wasn't William's some
where but can't remember where at the moment.
In a message dated 2/9/2007 10:14:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
larry(at)macsmachine.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: LarryMcFarland
Raymond,
There was a dual ignition paper by Paul Messenger which converted a
single pickup and module distributor
to dual pickups and used externalized modules. I have a copy of that
data if you're interested. I used that
information to convert my Subaru to dual ignition. If that's what you
need, contact me off line (larry(at)macsmachine.com).
Point type ignition is another matter.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Once again let me repeat myself so the ONES WITH GLASSES CAN SEE IT!!!
WILLIAM AND MYSELF HAD A LONG TALK ABOUT MY PROJECT AND I TOLD HIM I WAS ALMOST
READY FOR FWF HE ASSURED ME I WOULD NOT HAVE TO WAIT ON PARTS. If he would have
told me it would be months after his quoted time frame I would have made
another choice SO HE IS A SALESMAN.
In a message dated 2/9/2007 12:10:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
wr.giacona(at)cox.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona"
I've ordered three items from WW. First, the manual a couple of years ago. I
got it in a week or two.
4 or 5 months ago I ordered the engine mount. Got it in 3 weeks.
Then I called him in October to talk about ordering a complete engine. We
talked on the phone for over 30 minutes most of which was spent with him trying
to talk me out of him building my engine. He talked me into going to the
Corvair College that was happening the next month. I learned a lot. Got to fly
in a few Corvair powered aircraft.
In the end I decided that while I could do it if I had to I would be better
off with him building my engine. As I said before I took the 6 to 8 weeks
quote with a grain of salt.
I also figured this out. WW is an engineer he's not a salesman and he isn't
an organizational whiz. If I could give him one piece of business advise it
would be to hire a manager and let the manager do the scheduling and delivery
time quotes.
His operation is basically a 2 or 3 man, 1 woman and 1 cat shop. His sales
have increased dramatically, he is still doing R&D on many of the things he is
going to offer and a lot of the stuff that goes into his product comes from
other sources that he doesn't have a lot of control over.
If you didn't understand this going in YOU didn't do your homework.
I'd be willing to bet that if you had called him and placed your order and
he had told you that he wasn't sure when you would get the product you would
have been on here bitching that WW doesn't have a product and the whole
Corvair engine thing is hype.
If you can't live with the delays I'd suggest you go with a Lycoming, Rotax
or Jabariu.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herbert Heaton" <heatonhe36(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling wing spars |
Wade,
I used a laser level to set the dihedral of the outer spar to the center
spar. Fit your outer spar to the center spar and lay flat on your
workbench. Tape the laser level to the bottom of the center spar with the
laser pointing toward the wing tip. Measure the distance from the laser
beam to the bottom of the outer spar where it meets the center spar and add
this to the dimension you calculate at the tip. 6-W-4, lower right corner
gives you all the measurements you need to calculate the rise for the 5.65
deg angle. A scale held at the end of the spar will allow you to set the
angle within 1/2 mm.
Good luck,
Herb
>From: "wade jones" <wjones(at)brazoriainet.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
>Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 14:11:02 -0600
>
>Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar and the
>wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a 9/32 drill
>bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he has recently
>completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from fellow scratch
>builders that may help me on this task would be greatly appreciated .
>Thanks
>Wade Jones South Texas
>601XL plans building
>Cont. 0200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins clecoed
until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and rigging.
I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few
builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable
via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good
idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the rudder
pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work between
the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes
so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the entire
front top skin.
If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues
when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once the
rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and
turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the cockpit.
Dred
601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
---- Paul Mulwitz wrote:
> I did the wiring and plumbing after the bottom skin was
> riveted. This was the point when I installed the navigation lights
> and strobes as well as the pitot and LRI probes.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
> At 06:38 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
> >
> >When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom
> >skins and on and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin
> >is even messed with? Anybody have and timelines as to when they did
> >all they internal work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle and stick configuration |
Guys..... at the risk of stating the obvious, the K.I.S.S. rules applies here,
big-time. The more complicated the throttle linkage gets, the more likely you
are to have a serious inflight malfunction or failure. The fairly simple dual
throttle linkage or in my case, the simple and rugged dual stick option seem completely
trustworthy and dependable. Now a twist grip throttle or an electronic
cruise control device???? I wouldn't try that.
Dred
---- NYTerminat(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> With one of the cruise controls off a Goldwing?
>
> Larry(at)portouw.com writes:
>
> Stray voltage (It's early). Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the
> stick? -
>
> 601zv(at)ritternet.com wrote:
> > Me too. I was mistakenly thinking of the single center stick situation - a
> > bit of mind warp apparently translated dual stick into single stick. I'm
> > doing the single stick and don't see a practical way to avoid the dual
> > throttle.
> >
> > Do not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle and stick configuration |
Dred,
It was a joke about the cruise control!!!!!!
In a message dated 2/9/2007 1:33:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
dredmoody(at)cox.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by:
Guys..... at the risk of stating the obvious, the K.I.S.S. rules applies
here, big-time. The more complicated the throttle linkage gets, the more likely
you are to have a serious inflight malfunction or failure. The fairly simple
dual throttle linkage or in my case, the simple and rugged dual stick option
seem completely trustworthy and dependable. Now a twist grip throttle or an
electronic cruise control device???? I wouldn't try that.
Dred
---- NYTerminat(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> With one of the cruise controls off a Goldwing?
>
> Larry(at)portouw.com writes:
>
> Stray voltage (It's early). Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the
> stick? -
>
> 601zv(at)ritternet.com wrote:
> > Me too. I was mistakenly thinking of the single center stick situation
- a
> > bit of mind warp apparently translated dual stick into single stick.
I'm
> > doing the single stick and don't see a practical way to avoid the dual
> > throttle.
> >
> > Do not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
Dred,
I'd recommend you not use nutplates, but do use u-nuts and j-nuts to do
the forward top skin. Too much effort in
installing nut plates and little room to work with if you have a header
tank at the firewall and instruments at the other.
The cost versus effective holding, repair, replacement and install
really favors 6-32 u-nut/j-nut installation in this particular area.
Well said, you're going to appreciate the ease of access anyway. There
are ways to make it easier to remove the fwd top
skin too.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins
clecoed until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and
rigging. I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few
builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable
via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good
idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the
rudder pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work
between the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes
so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the
entire front top skin.
>
> If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues
when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once
the rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and
turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the
cockpit.
>
> Dred
> 601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BadBob" <badbob0007(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
I re-read my post and it had a little 'bite' to it that I didn't intend.
I guess I should 'proof read' my comments! LOL How do I get hold of
Falcon to get some head work done?
Thanks,
Bob form Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection. |
Hi Tim,
I understand the choice between using deep slips and flaps for
creating a steep approach to landing. I am not sure either one has
much advantage over the other one. Of course if you have a plane
with no flaps you have no choice. I guess the slip choice can be a
little unnerving on inexperienced passengers, but I am not sure if
this is an advantage or disadvantage.
The situation is a little different with takeoff. A little flaps -
perhaps 10 degrees - can greatly shorten your ground roll and might
even allow you to climb at a higher angle. This option doesn't exist
on a plane with no flaps.
The situation I ran into while building my XL showed me several
things about the kit and plans.
1. The design has recently been changed to limit the flap deflection
to 20 degrees instead of the 30 degrees the XL has had since its
first prototype. This was done without any mention to the buyer
community - just a change that kit and plan buyers learn about as
they reach that stage of building.
Perhaps the only reason for this change was to allow the elevator
trim to neutralize the pitch with full flaps - something that
apparently was not possible with 30 degrees of flaps. According to
my current flight instructor and fellow local EAA club member, this
is a very important quality for a plane to have and is indeed
required for part 23 certification. His explanation talked about
having a bee chase you around the cockpit on approach so you let go
of the stick to defend yourself.
This change certainly had nothing to do with LSA stall speeds since
they are specified without the use of flaps.
2. The flap control design is very sensitive to the vertical
position of the long control tube that connects the two flaps. If
this tube is mounted too low (as on my first attempt) then there is a
collision between the large channel the tube is mounted on and the
steel tube extension on the linear motor actuator. This seems like a
really bad problem to me. The location of the control tube is not
specified on the prints. Instead, it is determined by a long string
of events that lead to the exact location of the wing trailing
edge. I plan to suggest this specification be changed to help
following builders avoid the problem I had.
3. Reports from current XL owners indicate 20 degrees of flap
deflection is sufficient for their flying needs and 30 is just plain
overkill. I suppose that means it is reasonable to accept the new
design from ZAC even though it could have been changed in a more public way.
4. As always, support from ZAC has been excellent. In this case,
Caleb spent time on this problem including several communications and
parts of several days of effort.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:16 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>
>If you want to lose a bunch of altitude in a hurry without
>overspeeding the aircraft try a slip. I fly a Aeronca L16A which
>has no flaps and don't really miss them. When I put it into a slip
>it comes down like a rock (without gaining airspeed) - as soon as I
>release the slip I'm back flying at my desired attitude and
>airspeed. The flat side of the XL should make it slip pretty good.
>
>My understanding is that the flaps were added to the XL to get the
>stall speeds within the light sport category.
>
>That said, when my plane is done I'm sure I'll use flaps on
>approach. I will also experiment (at altitude) with slips with
>flaps extended as well as the ability of the aircraft to hold
>altitude and climb with full flaps.
>
>Tim
>
>---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Mark (Falcon)
2043 S Fish Hatchery Road
Oregon, WI 53575
(608) 835-3317
In a message dated 2/9/2007 2:06:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
badbob0007(at)earthlink.net writes:
I re-read my post and it had a little 'bite' to it that I didn't intend. I
guess I should 'proof read' my comments! LOL How do I get hold of Falcon to
get some head work done?
Thanks,
Bob form Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keystone Engineering LLC <keystone(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | VGs feathers on an 801 |
I finally got time to add 100 VGs to my tail to see if that makes a difference.
It did not seem to make a difference. Here is a summary of my testing. I only
stalled the plane 3 or 4 times in each configuration. The numbers should
be within a mile an hr or two. The winds have been light when I have done the
testing. I used GPS speeds. To calculate air speeds at high altitudes I assumed
the plane's speed would increase 3% per 1000' rise in altitude.
Removed Leading Edge Slats off the CH 801
Installed home made VGs 10% of chord and at a 45 degree angle
Stall clean 55
Stall dirty 43
Cruise I 108 MPH GPS 103 MPH
Density altitude at 3000' +500'
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 115 MPH
Installed feathers at 10% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 51
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 110 MPH GPS 104 MPH
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 113 MPH
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise not measured
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Removed large VGs from tail installed 100 smaller home made VGs at a 15 degree
angle
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 105 MPH GPS 103
Cruise at 4500' standard day 114 MPH
Take off and landing distances are definitely longer. They are a lot shorter than
a Cessna but...
If you factor the cruise to 6000' you would be 122 MPH. The plane seems slipperier.
Not like a Bonanza or Mooney but more slippery that it was.
Before VGs I used 50 as my final approach speed now I need to use 58 mph.
Is loosing 8 mph on the bottom end worth gaining 10 mph on the top end?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
280 hrs
Valdez, Ak
Scratching head contemplating installing fairings to lift struts, fixing gas tank
leak and installing new engine driven fuel pump and electric fuel pump. Does
maintenance ever end?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Briggs <idyll1(at)clearwire.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Bob,
I have been waiting on a nosebowl I ordered last March (2006). If I
were waiting on a manual or a DVD it wouldn't be any big deal. Like
the originator of this thread, I have committed to the corvair
conversion (and have a completed engine) and just want to get the
part(s) I ordered and paid for so I can complete my project. When you
pay a seller for an item, they have a responsibility to provide the
item in a reasonable amount of time. That is the way things are
expected to work. I'm glad you got your manual and DVD on time. Why
don't you order a dozen nosebowls, (since you get parts on time) you
could kick the price up a hundred bucks and sell them to builders who
have been waiting for months on their orders.
Gary
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
just -pleace a bottom hatch, they are in the plans.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
>Sent: Feb 9, 2007 1:24 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables.
>
>
>Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins
clecoed until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and
rigging. I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few
builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable
via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good
idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the
rudder pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work between
the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes
so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the entire
front top skin.
>
>If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues
when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once the
rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and
turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the cockpit.
>
>Dred
>601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
>
>---- Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>> I did the wiring and plumbing after the bottom skin was
>> riveted. This was the point when I installed the navigation lights
>> and strobes as well as the pitot and LRI probes.
>>
>> Paul
>> XL fuselage
>>
>> At 06:38 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>> >
>> >When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom
>> >skins and on and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin
>> >is even messed with? Anybody have and timelines as to when they did
>> >all they internal work.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb |
| From: | "dougsire" <dsire(at)imt.net> |
I saw where the NTSB report on the fatal 601XL accident last February in Oakdale,
CA has been completed. It doesn't list a probable cause and it didn't necessarily
answer the questions I had.
--------
Doug Sire 601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94011#94011
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Shuck" <stshuck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb |
I agree, there is nothing said about a missing bolt or nut on the rear wing
spar as reported from a Canadian Zenith dealer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dougsire" <dsire(at)imt.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 12:30 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb
>
> I saw where the NTSB report on the fatal 601XL accident last February in
> Oakdale, CA has been completed. It doesn't list a probable cause and it
> didn't necessarily answer the questions I had.
>
> --------
> Doug Sire 601XL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94011#94011
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aprazer" <aprazer(at)cableone.net> |
Beech does make a pretty good bird, but have you looked at the Navion?
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94014#94014
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Marzulli" <john.marzulli(at)gmail.com> |
On the topic of BRS....
I got this link in my office email today:
http://www.turbopilot.com/copa/image3/brs.wmv
John in Seattle
On 2/9/07, aprazer wrote:
>
>
> Beech does make a pretty good bird, but have you looked at the Navion?
>
> --------
> The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94014#94014
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
Forgive me if this is slightly off topic, but I spotted an ad for Kapton
tubing the other day in one of my engineering newsletters.
The stuff is very light and thin, and carries a fire resistant rating. It
may not be as cheap as the stuff from Lowe's aviation supply, but for
lightness I would it is worth a look. I worked with this stuff years ago,
and perhaps for out aircraft, it might make a good conduit choice. Try a
Google on Kapton tube.
Craig Smith
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Valentine
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables.
I did most of my stuff after riveting the bottom skin. I would drill your
entire top skin to A5, finish the wing tip, and then have at it. I also
worked on my nose skin and fuel tank before running the wires/tubes.
I bought nylon conduit from Vans and ran it the length of the wing just
behind the baggage locker. (On that note - make sure you know where the
back of the locker is before you run your wires so that they are clear.) I
ran this conduit about an inch below the top of the wing. I ran tubing for
AOA/pitot near the bottom. The big conduit used grommets 931-14-20 (I think
- that is from memory - the 14-20 is definitely right). The conduit is
fantastic for easily running wires. You can cut small holes in it along the
way if you are installing aileron trim or a heated pitot.
Have fun.
Michael in NH
- finishing the second wing this weekend come hell or high water
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Logajan <JamesL(at)Lugoj.com> |
John Marzulli wrote:
> On the topic of BRS....
>
> I got this link in my office email today:
>
> http://www.turbopilot.com/copa/image3/brs.wmv
That's quite amazing - thanks for passing it on!
Jim Logajan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Throttle and stick configuaration |
Many have most of their experience in aircraft that you control pitch and
roll with the right hand and power with the left. (Piper J-3, Bell Huey, 1-26
glider). It seems natural. Some years ago, a retired fighter pilot was checking
out in an executive jet. He landed hard while doing a go around. Old habits led
him to "apply power" pushing forward with his left hand and pulling back with
his right to "pitch up". I worried that I would have the same problem with a
Luscombe that I bought. They have dual sticks and center throttle. Happy to
report that there was no problem and it immediately felt normal. I say don't
fret about it but build it fool proof.
Bob
Lyc XL (tail feathers) dual sticks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce |
Does anyone have experience with this type of landing gear? Looks like a big
weight saving.
Click here: Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/compositelg.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | VGs feathers on an 801 |
Aren't VGs on the tail surfaces used for correcting control issues, not for
changing stall speeds?
Craig Smith
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keystone
Engineering LLC
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: VGs feathers on an 801
I finally got time to add 100 VGs to my tail to see if that makes a
difference. It did not seem to make a difference. Here is a summary of my
testing. I only stalled the plane 3 or 4 times in each configuration. The
numbers should be within a mile an hr or two. The winds have been light
when I have done the testing. I used GPS speeds. To calculate air speeds
at high altitudes I assumed the plane's speed would increase 3% per 1000'
rise in altitude.
Removed Leading Edge Slats off the CH 801
Installed home made VGs 10% of chord and at a 45 degree angle
Stall clean 55
Stall dirty 43
Cruise I 108 MPH GPS 103 MPH
Density altitude at 3000' +500'
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 115 MPH
Installed feathers at 10% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 51
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 110 MPH GPS 104 MPH
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 113 MPH
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise not measured
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Removed large VGs from tail installed 100 smaller home made VGs at a 15
degree angle
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 105 MPH GPS 103
Cruise at 4500' standard day 114 MPH
Take off and landing distances are definitely longer. They are a lot
shorter than a Cessna but...
If you factor the cruise to 6000' you would be 122 MPH. The plane seems
slipperier. Not like a Bonanza or Mooney but more slippery that it was.
Before VGs I used 50 as my final approach speed now I need to use 58 mph.
Is loosing 8 mph on the bottom end worth gaining 10 mph on the top end?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
280 hrs
Valdez, Ak
Scratching head contemplating installing fairings to lift struts, fixing gas
tank leak and installing new engine driven fuel pump and electric fuel pump.
Does maintenance ever end?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce |
I just sent mine back to Aircraft Spruce today. It is a 2 pc set that
requires you make up and design custom attachment brackets. I purchased the NK-07
for my CH701, had a lot of hassle returning them, told them that they are not
a direct replacement. They look nice, seem to be of good quality, but not
worth my effort to convert to my already flying plane.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX
In a message dated 2/9/2007 5:32:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
MaxNr(at)aol.com writes:
Does anyone have experience with this type of landing gear? Looks like a big
weight saving.
_Click here: Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce_
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/compositelg.php)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/compositelg.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb |
Here is a link to the report for anyone who wants to read it:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=LAX06LA105&rpt=fa
Paul
XL fuselage
At 12:30 PM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>
>I saw where the NTSB report on the fatal 601XL accident last
>February in Oakdale, CA has been completed. It doesn't list a
>probable cause and it didn't necessarily answer the questions I had.
>
>--------
>Doug Sire 601XL
>
>
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Logajan <JamesL(at)Lugoj.com> |
John Marzulli wrote:
> On the topic of BRS....
>
> I got this link in my office email today:
>
> http://www.turbopilot.com/copa/image3/brs.wmv
Here's what appears to be the full cockpit video from collision to
touchdown:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_JAg1ZedGo
According to the comments, he was flying a Rans S6. Also, the CNN
video was also posted to YouTube, and based on the dates of those
postings this appears to have been reported back in December
(around Christmas) of last year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
The question is, did WW intend to go into mass production from the
get-go, or was he putzing around his shop, came up with an idea and
enormous demand evolved without warning?
All of us have a mod of our own. Who knows how to build it? You,
maybe one or two other people. Everyone finds out about it and they want
one. All of a sudden you have have orders coming out the ying yang, but
who's qualified to fill them? Sounds suspiciously like the background of
recent posts.
The inconsistant delivery times are a mystery, though.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hulland" <marinegunner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection. |
Why not try a speed brake somewhere under the center fuselage?
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hulland" <marinegunner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb |
NTSB report page is no good if your computer cannot open an "asp" file.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | NTSB Report on 601XL last Feb |
Actually the link ends up opening a PDF (Adobe Acrobat) file. A common
format also used for the Zenith photo assembly guides. Get the free reader
here:
www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "austria" <kleinsaft(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
How quickly one can remove the wings and store on a trailer?
[Question] austria
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94106#94106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
[quote="naumuk(at)alltel.net"]All-
The question is, did WW intend to go into mass production from the get-go,
or was he putzing around his shop, came up with an idea and enormous demand
evolved without warning?
All of us have a mod of our own. Who knows how to build it? You, maybe one
or two other people. Everyone finds out about it and they want one. All of
a sudden you have have orders coming out the ying yang, but who's qualified
to fill them? Sounds suspiciously like the background of recent posts.
The inconsistant delivery times are a mystery, though.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
> [b]
Probably the later. I also wouldn't be surprised if he's personally checking each
part. which is a good thing. Something like that could take awhile. He's probably
just meticulous about what goes out the door.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94118#94118
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
[quote="mrcc1234(at)sbcglobal.net"]Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is not
a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the delete
key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He has
made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to still
be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to none
and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He posts
every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety and
experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are being
converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small and keep
from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me. He may
even still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world we
live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some things
are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne, the
EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have learned to
trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
> --
Yes, I support him too, even if he's a little slow on production. This is what
grassroots aviation is about. This is what it was like 10 years ago, mom and pop
outfits and doing their best. Be glad you still have this level of freedom.
It could all be regulated by the FAA outright these days. 10+ years ago you'd
be hard pressed to have even basic access and info about the Corvair conversion.
Personally, I'd rather wait 2 months for parts then either never get them
because they weren't available or there wasn't anyone out there that had done
this level of research. WW runs a relatively small shop. Try rebuilding an engine
yourself. I've done it, but it takes quite awhile, but it they're doing 5
a week and there's 8 people in the shop (8 people he trusts which extends to you
trusting too) and there's 100+ on back order, well, it's going to take awhile.
Not only that, they're also building custom parts for DYIers, as well as things
like engine mounts and putting together Corvair workshops, I'd say they
have their hands full. Just be patient. Probably should have ordered the engine
from him 6 months ago.
If you're in that much of a hurry, why not buy one of the ones he has advertised
as ready to go on his website and just leave him your core?
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94120#94120
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Maxson <pmaxpmax(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Speed Brake?! Are We Still Talking about the CH601? |
Speed Brake? I must say, this is the first time I've heard that one! Are
n't those things usually found on fast, slick airplanes? The XL doesn't re
ally even need flaps (though I use them on almost every landing to point th
e nose down).
You could be the first in the neighborhood to have one.Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 19:17:58 -0700From: marinegunner(at)gmail.comTo: zenith-
list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: XL Flaps: Maximum down defl
ection.Why not try a speed brake somewhere under the center fuselage?-- Sem
per Fi,Steven R. HullandCH 600 TaildraggerAmado, AZThis and all other incom
ing/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned prior to opening/sendin
g and uses an external firewall to help insure virus free email and attachm
ents.
_________________________________________________________________
Live Search: Better results, fast
http://get.live.com/search/overview
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Kit Crate Dimensions are... |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
I just got my wing kit. Big crate. Here are the dimensions for the next builder
who's wondering how big of a trailer he needs:
Crate length: 151"
Crate width: 49"
Crate height: 27.5"
Crate weight: 651 lbs
I'd rented a 12' trailer with a tailgate. 12' trailer... 12 and a half foot crate...
Had a bit of a challange getting it home. Used ratchet straps and took
the backroads, but I got it home... :-)
Unloaded it by myself in about 30 minutes using an ordinary floor jack, wood scraps,
and two cheap furniture dollies (the kind with small wheels on each corner).
- Patrick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94130#94130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maarten Versteeg <maarten.versteeg(at)swri.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 64 Msgs - 02/09/07 |
Hello Wade,
Just a related question, where did you buy the reamer/drill
combination.
Maarten Versteeg, San Antonio
601XL kit building, but doing wings from scratch
>>From: "wade jones" <wjones(at)brazoriainet.com>
>>To:
>>Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
>>Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 14:11:02 -0600
>>
>>Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar and the
>>wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a 9/32 drill
>>bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he has recently
>>completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from fellow scratch
>>builders that may help me on this task would be greatly appreciated .
>>Thanks
>>Wade Jones South Texas
>>601XL plans building
>>Cont. 0200
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | control cabl tenshion |
| From: | "flyingmike9" <mlloyd9(at)csi.com> |
hi
can anybody tell me what the tenshion of the control cables (rudder,elevator) should
be i am building the UK model with dual sticks from CZECH AIRCAFT can not
find anything in the plans
thanks in advance
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94135#94135
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict1100_106.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
The key phrase is "Finding extra talent". Those of you out there who are
managers should be able to empathize. I can't help but think of a saying my
uncle has- the one who survived being in the 100th/8th Bombardment:
"When I have a job to do, I do not leave it 'till it's through. Be it
big or be it small, I do it right or not at all".
'Nuff said.
do
not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: WW
No question, WW
> is honest and hard working and life has overloaded his plate, but he will
> come thru. I'd imagine he feels a lot of the same pressure as those
> who've ordered from him. Two weeks or two months is not a long time in
> this business. Hiring people is even more pressure and finding extra
> talent is another kind of problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control cabl tenshion |
Hi Mike,
You've got things seriously under way there. The 601 series is a light
aircraft, so I'd not tighten cables to more than
20 lbs. 15 to 20 lbs is a good range. If you haven't bought one of
those expensive cable tension gages, you can build one
and calibrate it to the range you need. See links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tenscalbrate.gif
I used garage door pulleys obtained from Lowe's, but any like them would
work.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
flyingmike9 wrote:
>
> hi
> can anybody tell me what the tenshion of the control cables (rudder,elevator)
should be i am building the UK model with dual sticks from CZECH AIRCAFT can
not find anything in the plans
> thanks in advance
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brett Hanley <bretttdc(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Next time I will start with firewall fwd |
ALL the auto conversion people have had delivery problems at one time or an
other. My advice to anyone that wants to do an auto conversion is to start
the firewall forward forward first. Get your core and start building an e
ngine. WHEN, you have part delivery problem you can play the appropriate
cards to deal with suppliers. While waiting you can go work on the airframe
. With a little luck the engine will be ready shortly after the airframe is
done.=0A =0A WW has made available a great deal of information for a very
reasonable price. His book is a must read for anyone contemplating an auto
conversion no matter what engine they will use. He has done a lot of resea
rch and has some very innovative ideas. =0A =0AI can understand your frust
ration with conversion parts. I have been there as well with engines other
than Corvair. It is obvious that Fly Corvair is going through some growing
pains. Be patient. I am sure WW will come through as soon as he can. I kno
w that's not much constellation if it's you, your money and your project be
ing tied up. If you are having problems with WW I think you should take t
hose to him . This list is about sharing information; not bashing supplier
s that are having scheduling problems.=0A =0APlease understand this is only
one mans opinion. Opinions are like A holes. Everybody got one and every
body is intittled to one. This opinion and a buck will get you a cup of co
ffie at McDonnalds. =0A =0AWelcome to the wonderful exciting world of EXPE
RIMENTAL avation. I truly hope you can solve your hombuilding problems soo
n and get that thing in the air. I wish you blue skies and calm days for f
light testing.=0A =0ABrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | XL Kit & Engine for sale |
For personal reasons I am selling my 601 XL kit and completely assembled
Corvair engine using nearly all of William Wynne's parts.
601 XL Kit with the following options: Strobes, landing lights, wing
locker baggage option, 2 axis trim, dual stick option, dual brakes,
wheel fairings, upgraded to latest drawings and components. Thorough
documentation including pictures, log and receipts. Rudder, elevator,
stabilizer, flaps, ailerons, two axis trim finished. Both wings complete
including wing lockers, controls and wiring, except outboard ends need
trimmed and end caps put on. Rear fuselage assembled, cabin floor,
rudder pedals and brakes assembled but not riveted yet. Paid $18,569 not
including shipping, will sell for $14,900. Located near Nashville,
Tennessee. Total hours to date: 1000
William Wynne Corvair Conversion and firewall forward package. I do not
have the carb, alternator or deep sump pickup. Paid $7,701, will take
$5,700. Crankshaft was nitrided.
Company Part # Price
Extra capacity oil pan Albert Ramsey $150.00
Used Corvair Engine Albert Ramsey $275.00
Rear Oil Accessory Case William Wynne $249.00
Corvair Engine installation William Wynne $20.00
Warp Drive Prop William Wynne $600.00
Dual Ignition Distributor William Wynne $239.00
Damper William Wynne $100.00
CNC Machined Prop Hub William Wynne $319.00
Modified Crank w/shaft, studs & hardware. William Wynne $449.00
Alternator Pulley William Wynne $59.00
Front Starter Kit William Wynne $645.00
13" spinner bulkhead William Wynne $149.00
Fiberglass Nosebowl William Wynne $349.00
Motor Mount William Wynne $639.00
Stainless Intake William Wynne $269.00
Stainless Exhaust William Wynne $499.00
SET--Pistons, Chrome Rings, Cylinders Clark's C8327 $630.25
SET-- Reconditioned & Balanced Rods Clark's C9203 $236.00
Assemble pistons, rods & pins (set) Clark's C8828R $25.00
New OT-10 Cam & Billet Gear assembled Clark's C8800FG $275.05
Gasket set Clark's C120WW $92.40
Head Stud Nuts Clark's C-1089 $10.10
Blind Ended Nut for installing head studs Clark's C2001 $5.55
Oil Pump Primer Rod Clark's C-366 $4.15
Lifters Clark's C5856X $45.80
Valve guides Clark's C6702 $54.00
Intake Valves Clark's C3020P $30.60
Exhaust Valves Clark's C3022P $53.70
Valve Springs Clark's C8619 $52.85
Copper Head Gaskets Clark's C3946 $17.75
3/8 Drill Clark's C3440 $6.05
Helicoil 3/8 CoarseTap Clark's C3220 $19.85
Helicoil Installer Clark's C3221 $11.45
3/8 helicoil inserts for head studs (24) Clark's C3223 $50.40
ARP Studs SC Performance $240.00
Head Work & Welding Sexton's $359.10
Tubing for intake Burn's Stainless $36.14
Used Corvair engine Albert Ramsey $275.00
Spinner FP-13 Van's $160.00
Total $7,701.19
If interested contact offline.
Clyde Barcus
Hendersonville, TN
615-822-2135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control cabl tenshion |
| From: | "flyingmike9" <mlloyd9(at)csi.com> |
thanks for that larry
unfortunatlly i have bought the expensive type we live and learn
thank you again
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94148#94148
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
In a message dated 2/10/2007 9:07:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ashontz(at)nbme.org writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
[quote="mrcc1234(at)sbcglobal.net"]Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows is
not a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to hit the
delete key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost. He
has made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane and to
still be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record is second to
none and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem. He
posts every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money, safety
and experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are
being converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business small and
keep from growing into a nameless face of a company that's fine with me. He
may even still be around 10 years from now because of it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This world
we live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I think some
things are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William Wynne,
the EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I have
learned to trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
> --
Yes, I support him too, even if he's a little slow on production. This is
what grassroots aviation is about. This is what it was like 10 years ago, mom
and pop outfits and doing their best. Be glad you still have this level of
freedom. It could all be regulated by the FAA outright these days. 10+ years ago
you'd be hard pressed to have even basic access and info about the Corvair
conversion. Personally, I'd rather wait 2 months for parts then either never
get them because they weren't available or there wasn't anyone out there that
had done this level of research. WW runs a relatively small shop. Try
rebuilding an engine yourself. I've done it, but it takes quite awhile, but it
they're doing 5 a week and there's 8 people in the shop (8 people he trusts which
extends to you trusting too) and there's 100+ on back order, well, it's going
to take awhile. Not only that, they're also building custom parts for
DYIers, as well as things like engine mounts and putting together Corvai!
r workshops, I'd say they have their hands full. Just be patient. Probably
should have ordered the engine from him 6 months ago.
If you're in that much of a hurry, why not buy one of the ones he has
advertised as ready to go on his website and just leave him your core?
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
I for one would like to put this to bed. I started this thread and I would
like to finish it today. I spoke with William yesterday and he himself assured
me that the parts would be ready for pick up today. If everyone would read
all the posts and not just chime in in the middle you would understand what the
topic is all about. WW doesn't owe me an engine he only owes me a engine
mount, nose bowl, intake, and exhaust that's it.
As I told everyone before I like the corvair and William has done great
things for the corvair and GA. And once again My only problem with him is that
he
would keep telling me my parts would ship at the end of the week over and
over again. If he would have simply stated they aren't going to be ready due to
whatever that would have been fine but I have things to do also and I plan my
work according to what parts I will be getting in that week. I only started
posting out of frustration and anger. I have been moved from my heated hanger
and am working in a 27 degree one and that isn't fun. If I had had my parts
by Christmas I would be finished now. If I were to do it all over again would
I have gone with the corvair probably not. That said do I think William will
come thru with your parts if you order them well in advance? I believe he
would. The cold facts are he has created a monster and he has to tame it. Like
it or not some business's have to grow and this looks like one of them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan" <hillsgun(at)nwinfo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Well said. With an auto conversion we should all expect delays. It's
part of the game. I am enjoying the process, and since a homebuilt
project is never really finished anyway I am sure I could find something
productive to do to the plane rather than continue to bash William.
Dan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Stecher
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
Look guys and gals,
Don't you think you are being a little hard on the guy. What follows
is not a rant or tirade, but a few suggestions. Everyone is welcome to
hit the delete key if they want.
William has been nothing but helpful to hundreds of folks at no cost.
He has made it possible for most of us to be able to have our own plane
and to still be safe about it for a reasonable cost. His track record
is second to none and for at least half the money of comparable engines.
He also does not run and hide when something ends up being a problem.
He posts every bit of research and gives the best solution from a money,
safety and experience perspective.
Sure he has more work than he can handle, but didn't you know that
going in?
Just take a look at the turnout he always gets and the crowds that are
being converted to Corvair Flyers. If he wants to keep his business
small and keep from growing into a nameless face of a company that's
fine with me. He may even still be around 10 years from now because of
it.
Just order your parts well in advance or build them yourself. This
world we live in has conditioned us to expect everything now, but I
think some things are worth the wait.
I will see you at the airport in my plane someday thanks to William
Wynne, the EAA, a few local builders and Zenith. These are the folks I
have learned to trust.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher in Katy, TX
XL Corvair
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:04 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne
problems
I would agree with you except he told me my mount would be shipped
one week then the next week I called and he told me the metal shipment
was due in a few days and he would be building it that week and then
ship it for me. Now that my friend was a bold face lie.
What he needs is competition.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/10/2007 4:08 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | control cabl tenshion |
Hey that's pretty slick, are there drawings for plans, or just the 2
pictures?
Craig Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryMcFarland
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: control cabl tenshion
Hi Mike,
You've got things seriously under way there. The 601 series is a light
aircraft, so I'd not tighten cables to more than
20 lbs. 15 to 20 lbs is a good range. If you haven't bought one of
those expensive cable tension gages, you can build one
and calibrate it to the range you need. See links.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tenscalbrate.gif
I used garage door pulleys obtained from Lowe's, but any like them would
work.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mack Kreizenbeck" <aprazer(at)cableone.net> |
Ladies and Gents;
I've been reading this forum for about 6 months now -- finding every once in
a while that some get off on a tangent. I've been in business for myself
for many years and have found that communication between the offender and
the one that has been offended works well. A small organization (limited #
of employees) can't operate like a mega-sized firm, i.e., who does the work
when the proprietor or one of his employees gets ill? There can be a lot of
extenuating circumstances that we don't know about. Give WW a chance and
don't beat him up in the public or offer him advice through the media. You
know that he already has enough enemies in the Corvair Clubs.
Mack
601XL with Jabiru in final stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JG" <vgstol(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Gday All,
I really feel for this WW fella.
Having started up a couple of small businesses based on my own
engineering and R&D, and then finding that the duties of production
manager, distribution manager, customer relations manager, etc, etc,
overwhelm everything else, and if you have a good product you become a
slave to the business and can't even focus any longer on the R&D that
got you there in the first place, and if you hire more staff then you
become personell manager as well, and that's even less fun and more
stressful........ That was a long tiring sentence without a breath, but
that's just how life feels in such a business situation. I just hope WW
has a thick enough skin and the constitution to handle all that stress
without burning out.....
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Mack Kreizenbeck
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: WW
Ladies and Gents;
I've been reading this forum for about 6 months now -- finding every
once in
a while that some get off on a tangent. I've been in business for
myself
for many years and have found that communication between the offender
and
the one that has been offended works well. A small organization
(limited #
of employees) can't operate like a mega-sized firm, i.e., who does the
work
when the proprietor or one of his employees gets ill? There can be a
lot of
extenuating circumstances that we don't know about. Give WW a chance
and
don't beat him up in the public or offer him advice through the media.
You
know that he already has enough enemies in the Corvair Clubs.
Mack
601XL with Jabiru in final stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hulland" <marinegunner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brake?! Are We Still Talking about the CH601? |
Phil,
Not sure Speed Brake is a good idea, but something to look into - especially
with input from this group. Structually the airplane could handle one
somewhere under the center fuselage with a simple mechanical open close
handle. A small one might not be hard to operate and might be an interesting
and useful addition. Right now I am just thinking about the subject. All
comments are welcome.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <paulrod36(at)msn.com> |
Time for a new thread.........Woulda's.=0A=0AIf I had it to do o
ver again I woulda:=0A=0A1: Made every "L" angle, wherever possi
ble, re-curved on one flange. It would take up less room, be considera
bly stronger, and be less likely to slash my delicate skin.=0A
=0A2: Made the outer end of the wings flat, a la Cessna construction,
and found me a set of fiberglass Hoerner wingtips to slip over it, the
reby saving much frustration in making those curves. Not to mention mu
ch prettier.=0A=0A3: Filed a 1/4 inch radius on every corner.
=0A=0A4: ??? Up to you guys now.............=0A=0APaul Rodr
iguez=0A601XL/Corvair.=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control cabl tenshion |
Craig,
The cable tensioner gage can be done freehand from the images. It will
get tension close enough to
satisfy what's needed.
Sorry, I fixed the flip side of the image to "tension 4, see below.
Larry
C Smith wrote:
>
> Hey that's pretty slick, are there drawings for plans, or just the 2
> pictures?
>
>
you can build one and calibrate it to the range you need. See links.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension4.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tenscalbrate.gif
>
> I used small garage door pulleys obtained from Lowe's, but any like them would
> work.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
After starting my last thread I'm gonna stay far far away from this one lol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NEED TO FINISH MY PLANE William Wynne problems |
Ok William did come thru with my parts today they were picked up and they
will be shipped to me Monday.
I would like to thank William for acknowledging he dropped the ball when it
came to communicating the delays. I want everyone to remember that my parts
were promised before Christmas so if anyone is going to order their parts and
then bitch a week later and trash him on the list I would think twice about
it. I risked him sending me a check instead of parts. I started this thread
because I was pissed and wanted to let the world know It NOT to get my parts
faster. I had other means to do that.
I only hope that if nothing else comes from this that William will quote
realistic delivery times and understand that if things happen to delay a
shipment he simply sends a email and lets the customer know.
I would like to apologize to William for the thread just as he did for
admitting he dropped the ball. In the end I hope this will bring about change
for
the better on both ends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
HDS People-
I'm at a loss here. My upper rear longeron tracks straight along the
top edge and over the inboard rear former, but is a good 1/8" from
contacting the top of the former closest the tail. Former and side skin
dimensions are well within =B1 2mm of print. Yes, everything's level.
What do you think? Shim the top of the tail former, or bend the
longeron down to make contact with the tail former?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hulland" <marinegunner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brake?! Are We Still Talking about the CH601? |
On second thought all the small retro rockets and small regular rockets
would have to be fake and made of composite to avoid serious weight
problems. Still, flying around here with even fake ones would be a 'hoot" at
best, a real "drag" at worst.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Re:Speed brake?! Are We Still talking about the CH601? |
Got me thinking.. could beef up the wing locker doors and see what kind of
hydraulics Harbor Freight has.
Bob Dingley
601XL Lyc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brake?! Are We Still Talking about the CH601? |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
[quote="MaxNr(at)aol.com"]Got me thinking.. could beef up the wing locker doors
and see what kind of hydraulics Harbor Freight has.
Bob Dingley
601XL Lyc
> [b]
I think I'd leave the whole idea alone. The last thing anyone needs is a spoiler
that doesn't retract.
How about just using a little cross-controls, rudder one way, ailerons the other.
What speed range are we talking about? If you need to go from 150 down to 60
for an approach, I'd say the approach was set up wrong in the first place.
It's not like the XL is some 600 mph airliner, or even a 300 mph WWII dive bomber.
It shouldn't take to long to go from 135 cruise down to 70 for an approach.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94259#94259
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
[quote="tya2(at)4-fly.net"]Dear Samm,
I own a CH2000. The factory offers an upgrade kit out of Georgia with all of the parts necessary to do the change over from the old style CH2000 to AMD Alarus style Ch2000. Go to www.newplane.com (http://www.newplane.com/) prices can be found in the owners section. The information is kind of scanty but the pictures of the CH640 construction on one of the local builders websites will show you how it is done.
Personally the best kind of Canopy is the AA-1 or AA-5 style as used in the Grumman
AA-x series. Split in the middle and slides back like an F-86... You
can choose to fly with the canopy open and that is a fine feeling on warm days.
Turn off the radios and fly nordo through the mountains
Rocky near Edmonton, AB
> I am considering replacing the canopy with gull-wing doors like that on the CH2000.
Does anyone have information on how I should go about that change? Anyone
have drawings or suggestions as to how I could accomplish this?
>
> Samm Munn
> Zenith 601XL (plans builder), Corvair
> (129% to go)
>
>
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
> > - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> > http://forums.matronics.com (http://forums.matronics.com)
> > - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> > http://wiki.matronics.com (http://wiki.matronics.com)
> > - List Contribution Web Site -
> > -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
> >
> > [/b]
> [b]
Do you know the link of the guy building the CH640 and his pix of the gull wing
doors. I'm interested in this option too. Any other info on the AA-1 and AA-5
sliding canopy? That sounds interesting too. Thanks
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94263#94263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wade jones" <wjones(at)brazoriainet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling wing spars |
Thanks to those that replied with suggestions to this post. I may get
enough nerve to try drilling these holes today.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling wing spars
Hello Group ,I am ready to drill the 5/16 holes in my center spar and
the wing spars on a 601XL .I have just bought a 5/16 reamer and a 9/32
drill bit .I have received some good advise from Dave Clay as he has
recently completed this task . Any additional advise or tips from fellow
scratch builders that may help me on this task would be greatly
appreciated . Thanks
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> |
I know the below was said in jest but some might believe it. Go back in
the archives, now so bloated that they are unusable, and you'll read of
a crash with a 601 caused by one of the wing lockers being unfastened
and coming up in flight after takeoff.
| From: | "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> |
The Construction Manual (circa 1999) that came with my kit said 30
pounds.
In conversation with Nick he said 25 to 30 pounds. You should be able
to borrow a tensioner from a local airport mechanic for a six-pack.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
Bill,
Not knowing exactly how complete your tail segment is yet, but I'd make
that decision when all the rudder and stab plates have been
positioned. Do consider the spacing of the rudder hinge plates and the
distance needed between pivot angles on your rudder. Check for
alignment and hinge distance and adjust by shim or shim plus deflection
accordingly.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> HDS People-
> I'm at a loss here. My upper rear longeron tracks straight along
> the top edge and over the inboard rear former, but is a good 1/8" from
> contacting the top of the former closest the tail. Former and side
> skin dimensions are well within 2mm of print. Yes, everything's level.
> What do you think? Shim the top of the tail former, or bend the
> longeron down to make contact with the tail former?
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | HDS People-Longeron mystery solved |
HDS People-
Matt, please don't edit this out, as it can help someone else down
the line.
Once again, the construction manual and the plans don't agree. F-4
in the construction manual calls for an overall length of 358mm for
6F2-3, while the print 6F2-3HD calls for an OAL of 360mm. Factor in 1mm
of the general =B1 2mm tolerance and you get the 1/8" I'm short.
What I've decided to do is to remove the upper flange of 6F2-3HD,
then fabricate a second 6F2-4 angle out of .032 using my 18" brake and
attach it in the correct position using the same 5 A5s used for the
original 6F2-4.
Thank God everything's still in clecos!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | landing gear 701 |
builder#5390 plan built info on bending main landing gear spring
thanks
_________________________________________________________________
http://local.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&cp=43.658648~-79.383962&style=r&lvl=15&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=3702663&cid=7ABE80D1746919B4!1329
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Makibbin" <tmak(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Control Cable Lengths |
I am installing my control cables for the elevator and rudder and I am
wondering what the best way to determine how long to make the cables? What
is the easiest way to figure where to cut the cable? Thanks.
Tom Makibbin
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
HDS People-
Attached is a shot of my rear former after adjustments. (It's fuzzy,
I know). Note the top flange is the same configuration as the bottom.
Also note that the longerons are right on track and the level bubble is
centered.
3 hours to put things right, but zero outlay. New builders might
want to set up after the side skins are on and make adjustments as
necessary.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control cabl tenshion |
you can buy a sail boat one for 50 bucks.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
>Sent: Feb 10, 2007 4:23 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: control cabl tenshion
>
>
>Craig,
>The cable tensioner gage can be done freehand from the images. It will
>get tension close enough to
>satisfy what's needed.
>
>Sorry, I fixed the flip side of the image to "tension 4, see below.
>
>Larry
>
>C Smith wrote:
>>
>> Hey that's pretty slick, are there drawings for plans, or just the 2
>> pictures?
>>
>>
> you can build one and calibrate it to the range you need. See links.
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension3.gif
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tension4.gif
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/tjh/cabletools/full/tenscalbrate.gif
>>
>> I used small garage door pulleys obtained from Lowe's, but any like them would
>> work.
>>
>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Control Cable Lengths |
I locked my control stick into position and made 1 end up then ran it thru
thr fush. then cut it alittle long then made up the cable with the turn buckle
half way adjusted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keystone Engineering LLC <keystone(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | VGs feathers on an 801 |
Craig
The suggestion was made that the tail was stalling before the wing. Adding more
smaller VGs tested this theory.
You are correct the stall speed did not change but I already had VGs on the tail.
The VGs on the tail give you more elevator authority at very little cost.
For example adding VGs to the "original" small tail for the 801 gives you more
elevator authority than changing to the larger tail.
15 years ago everyone "knew" the only reason to use VGs was to correct design mistakes.
Today they are used as a high lift device and to direct vortexes when
desired to reduce drag.
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
281 hrs
Valdez, Ak
From: "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: VGs feathers on an 801
Aren't VGs on the tail surfaces used for correcting control issues, not for
changing stall speeds?
Craig Smith
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keystone
Engineering LLC
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: VGs feathers on an 801
I finally got time to add 100 VGs to my tail to see if that makes a
difference. It did not seem to make a difference. Here is a summary of my
testing. I only stalled the plane 3 or 4 times in each configuration. The
numbers should be within a mile an hr or two. The winds have been light
when I have done the testing. I used GPS speeds. To calculate air speeds
at high altitudes I assumed the plane's speed would increase 3% per 1000'
rise in altitude.
Removed Leading Edge Slats off the CH 801
Installed home made VGs 10% of chord and at a 45 degree angle
Stall clean 55
Stall dirty 43
Cruise I 108 MPH GPS 103 MPH
Density altitude at 3000' +500'
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 115 MPH
Installed feathers at 10% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 51
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 110 MPH GPS 104 MPH
Cruise at 4500' Standard day 113 MPH
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise not measured
Installed Feathers at 6% of chord at 12 degrees
Removed large VGs from tail installed 100 smaller home made VGs at a 15
degree angle
Stall clean 50
Stall dirty 45
Cruise I 105 MPH GPS 103
Cruise at 4500' standard day 114 MPH
Take off and landing distances are definitely longer. They are a lot
shorter than a Cessna but...
If you factor the cruise to 6000' you would be 122 MPH. The plane seems
slipperier. Not like a Bonanza or Mooney but more slippery that it was.
Before VGs I used 50 as my final approach speed now I need to use 58 mph.
Is loosing 8 mph on the bottom end worth gaining 10 mph on the top end?
Bill Wilcox
N801BW
280 hrs
Valdez, Ak
Scratching head contemplating installing fairings to lift struts, fixing gas
tank leak and installing new engine driven fuel pump and electric fuel pump.
Does maintenance ever end?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jake Reyna <jakereyna(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | FYI - LSA Comparison and builder spreadsheet |
I get distracted from building on occasion and have
decided to share some stuff with other like minded
individuals.
I've created a LSA Experimental Kit comparison page
with similar type aircraft. It is what it is. Go to
the following address to view.
http://www.iflylsa.com/
And I have an Excel spreadsheet configured to track
building expenses. It's commented (red tag indicates
comment), with sample numbers. Feel free to use and
share.
http://www.iflylsa.com/BuildExp.xls
If all goes well my XL will be flying sometime in
April.
If you have comments or questions please contact me
off list, jakereyna at yahoo . com
Hasta la Vista!
Jake
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Twist Throttle on stick |
| From: | caspainhower(at)aep.com |
A while back Brett Ray (brett@hog-air.com) made a Harley engine conversion
and put one in his 601XL with a twist throttle. It uses a friction lock and
he seemed happy with it. He has since sold the plane and is no longer on
the list, but if you were really curious the e-mail may still be valid.
Craig
N601XS
Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the stick?
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beau" <beaudunn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist Throttle on stick |
Hello all,
I'm a newby to the group but here is my experience with the twist throttle.
A few years ago I flew an Ultralight (Aerolight 103) with a twist grip
throttle incorporated into a break lever (tube, pull up for breaking) on the
left side. So my left hand was twisting for throttle and flying with right.
It also had a friction lock but made the twisting difficult. Although it did
the job it is not intuitive as the standard throttles are. I found myself
twisting in the wrong direction many times. This was not good but I had
plenty of time to correct.... My opinion is the standard throttles. Oh, the
factory discontinued it shortly after and went to standard throttles.
Beau Dunn
6-6800
Number nine build.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
caspainhower(at)aep.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 4:04 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Twist Throttle on stick
A while back Brett Ray (brett@hog-air.com) made a Harley engine conversion
and put one in his 601XL with a twist throttle. It uses a friction lock and
he seemed happy with it. He has since sold the plane and is no longer on
the list, but if you were really curious the e-mail may still be valid.
Craig
N601XS
Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the stick?
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Twist Throttle on stick |
worked real good... if you have a center stick. , u you twist it open to the
back, just like on a bike. it helps to havea push pull cable set up carb.
joe HD101
----- Original Message -----
From: <caspainhower(at)aep.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Twist Throttle on stick
>
>
> A while back Brett Ray (brett@hog-air.com) made a Harley engine conversion
> and put one in his 601XL with a twist throttle. It uses a friction lock
> and
> he seemed happy with it. He has since sold the plane and is no longer on
> the list, but if you were really curious the e-mail may still be valid.
>
> Craig
> N601XS
>
> Has anyone ever tried a twist throttle on the stick?
> -
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
> Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
> use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
> privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
> distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
> message.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FYI - LSA Comparison and builder spreadsheet |
nice spread sheet. where"s the rate of climb,and the prop type tha would
even more helpful.. Great job joe N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jake Reyna" <jakereyna(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: FYI - LSA Comparison and builder spreadsheet
>
> I get distracted from building on occasion and have
> decided to share some stuff with other like minded
> individuals.
>
> I've created a LSA Experimental Kit comparison page
> with similar type aircraft. It is what it is. Go to
> the following address to view.
>
> http://www.iflylsa.com/
>
> And I have an Excel spreadsheet configured to track
> building expenses. It's commented (red tag indicates
> comment), with sample numbers. Feel free to use and
> share.
>
> http://www.iflylsa.com/BuildExp.xls
>
> If all goes well my XL will be flying sometime in
> April.
>
> If you have comments or questions please contact me
> off list, jakereyna at yahoo . com
>
> Hasta la Vista!
> Jake
>
>
> Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601HD for sale (soon) |
| From: | "hansriet" <hansinla(at)mac.com> |
That link doesn't seem to work here.
Hans
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94646#94646
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is a photo of the CH2000,CH640 cabin structure.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94669#94669
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabin_214.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
steveadams wrote:
> Here is a photo of the CH2000,CH640 cabin structure.
I see no reason why that can't be easily adaptable to the CH601XL. If you ask me
the CH2000 looks just like a CH601XL except with a hardtop canopy.
[img]http--www.airbum.com-pireps-CH20001.jpg[/img]
Doesn't even look all that difficult to make, unless I'm missing something.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94676#94676
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
To each his own... but that big bubble canopy on the 601XL was a big selling point
for me.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94691#94691
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun group ride share from Michigan to ZBBQ |
| From: | "pilot4pay" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I live in central Michigan (Howell, between Lansing and Detroit). Is anyone in
the area interested in a group tansport to spread the costs of rooms and transportation?
If anyone has a seat available in a plane or car, I'd love to help
with the costs. If necessary I can drive, but my pick-up doesn't get the best
milage. Departure would be dawn on the 18th at the latest, predict 18hr drive
time. I simply can't afford to make the trip on my own, but think the shared info
would be worth the trip. Rooms need to be booked ASAP, or stay in Tampa or
Orlando area. Camping is alternative, I have sufficient gear, but prefer a real
bed.
Interested parties can e-mail me direct.
--------
Craig Smith
Future CH640 builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94694#94694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
I used to monitor the RV list, and after listening to them complain about
the quality of the canopy, I'm glad I've chosen to go with Zenith, not to
mention not having to buck all those rivets! Looks like very high quality
glass work.
Craig Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steveadams
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 7:51 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Gull-wing Doors
-->
Here is a photo of the CH2000,CH640 cabin structure.
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabin_214.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
Gig Giacona wrote:
> To each his own... but that big bubble canopy on the 601XL was a big selling
point for me.
Gig Giacona wrote:
> To each his own... but that big bubble canopy on the 601XL was a big selling
point for me.
To each his own.
I like the hardtop. Looks like a Piper Cherokee. May give a little more roll-over
protection too if done right. I also don't like the idea of being trapped in
a bubble upside down, you can pop the door latch (per a lot of flight manuals
in prep for an emergency landing) prior to landing, especially if it's a regular
front hinge door like a Cherokee. Not only that but I'd be easier and cleaner
to put a couple slider windows in the thing and it also offers some measure
of sun protection without giving up too much visibility. To me the hardtop
just looks more like a GA airplane. I think it's cool and would probably be cheaper
too. Also, it looks like something I can make and repair. Crack a fullsized
bubble canopy while doing something to it and you're screwed and have to buy
a new one. I also don't like the idea of having something on the plane I can't
make myself or would be really hard-pressed to make. Worst case if for some
reason say the smaller windshield cracked and I couldn't find another one at
a reasonable price, it'd be a hell of a lot easier to make a small plexi-glass
front or side windshield that it would be to make a full-sized canopy. I intend
to keep this plane for a long time. If in 2030 I need a windshield and the
company that made the original wasn't around I wouldn't be SOL.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94700#94700
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
I think I'd make the door spring loaded somehow so that it stays closed even if
someone forgets to latch it.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94785#94785
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
I woulda jumped into to building YEARS ago knowing how much I like it and how little
it really costs.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94789#94789
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
If you're going to spring load the locker doors, wouldn't it be a better idea to
spring load them OPEN? That way, they are not flopping in your way when you
are loading or unloading them, and the best part is that it is painfully obvious
if you have forgotten to latch them. I mean, if you start up and taxi out with
the doors sprung wide open, you are probbaly not a good choice for the left
seat.
Dred
---- ashontz wrote:
>
> I think I'd make the door spring loaded somehow so that it stays closed even
if someone forgets to latch it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone use a dual stick, dual throttle setup? that is sort of what I had been
thinking of (you know, a side by side tandem!)
japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote: Jay, I also have dual sticks in my XL and I had
thought I would use the single throttle in the center somewhere. Instead I have
the duals with spin friction locks. It is a little more work and $ to install
two throttles, but as a right handed guy I like landing with my most coordinated
hand on the stick and left hand on the go ball. If I was left handed the
center throttle would be preferred for me. This question is a preference point
only your taste in flying can answer. I have a couple hundred hours in 152,172
and Warriors and I always had to land left handed and I knew the other way
would work better for me. Best regards, Bill of Georgia N505WP 601XL-3300 105
hours
-----Original Message-----
From: Jaybannist(at)cs.com
Sent: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 2:35 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List:
.AOLPlainTextBody { margin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial,
Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px; color: #000; background-color:
#fff; } .AOLPlainTextBody pre { font-size: 9pt; } .AOLInlineAttachment
{ margin: 10px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader { font: 11px arial;
border: 1px solid #7DA8D4; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
.Title { font: 11px arial; background: #B5DDFA; padding:
3px 3px 3px 3px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader .FieldLabel { font: 11px
arial; color: #000000; padding: 1px 10px 1px 9px; background:
#F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader .FieldValue { font: 11px arial;
color: #000000; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader a, .AOLImage
a { color: #2864B4; text-decoration: none; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
a:hover, .AOLImage a:hover { color: #2864B4; text-decoration:
underline; } .AOLWebSuiteCompose
.AOLPicturesFullSizeLink, .AOLWebSuite .AOLPicturesFullSizeLink { height:
1px; width: 1px; overflow: hidden; } body { background-color:
white; font-family: "Verdana"; font-size: 10pt; border: 0px;
} .AOLWebSuiteCompose p { margin: 0px; padding: 0px; } img.managedImg
{ width: 0px; height: 0px; } img.placeholder {
width: 275px; height: 206px; background: #F4F4F4 center center no-repeat;
border: 1px solid #DADAD6 !important; }
---------------------------------
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Vechinski <brothapig(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
The only problem with that is, IF the latch should somehow fail in flight, you
WILL have a working spoiler, and I doubt one could recover and land safely from
that.
What about a dual action spring hinge, one that pulls the door closed when it is
more that halfway closed, and pushes the door open when it is more than halfway
open? I don't know what you call these, but the same principle is at work
on most automobile fuel doors. Just a thought.
Ryan
----------------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 16:31:44 -0500
> From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: wing locker doors
>
>
> If you're going to spring load the locker doors, wouldn't it be a better idea
to spring load them OPEN? That way, they are not flopping in your way when you
are loading or unloading them, and the best part is that it is painfully obvious
if you have forgotten to latch them. I mean, if you start up and taxi out
with the doors sprung wide open, you are probbaly not a good choice for the left
seat.
>
> Dred
>
> ---- ashontz wrote:
> >
> > I think I'd make the door spring loaded somehow so that it stays closed even
if someone forgets to latch it.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XL Flaps: Maximum down deflection. |
Would there be adequate trim capability if the tab were full span on both elevators?
I also plan to use something other than the elevator mounted trim motor
design because I do not like the unbalanced controls in the first place.
Hi Tim,
I understand the choice between using deep slips and flaps for
creating a steep approach to landing. I am not sure either one has
much advantage over the other one. Of course if you have a plane
with no flaps you have no choice. I guess the slip choice can be a
little unnerving on inexperienced passengers, but I am not sure if
this is an advantage or disadvantage.
The situation is a little different with takeoff. A little flaps -
perhaps 10 degrees - can greatly shorten your ground roll and might
even allow you to climb at a higher angle. This option doesn't exist
on a plane with no flaps.
The situation I ran into while building my XL showed me several
things about the kit and plans.
1. The design has recently been changed to limit the flap deflection
to 20 degrees instead of the 30 degrees the XL has had since its
first prototype. This was done without any mention to the buyer
community - just a change that kit and plan buyers learn about as
they reach that stage of building.
Perhaps the only reason for this change was to allow the elevator
trim to neutralize the pitch with full flaps - something that
apparently was not possible with 30 degrees of flaps. According to
my current flight instructor and fellow local EAA club member, this
is a very important quality for a plane to have and is indeed
required for part 23 certification. His explanation talked about
having a bee chase you around the cockpit on approach so you let go
of the stick to defend yourself.
This change certainly had nothing to do with LSA stall speeds since
they are specified without the use of flaps.
2. The flap control design is very sensitive to the vertical
position of the long control tube that connects the two flaps. If
this tube is mounted too low (as on my first attempt) then there is a
collision between the large channel the tube is mounted on and the
steel tube extension on the linear motor actuator. This seems like a
really bad problem to me. The location of the control tube is not
specified on the prints. Instead, it is determined by a long string
of events that lead to the exact location of the wing trailing
edge. I plan to suggest this specification be changed to help
following builders avoid the problem I had.
3. Reports from current XL owners indicate 20 degrees of flap
deflection is sufficient for their flying needs and 30 is just plain
overkill. I suppose that means it is reasonable to accept the new
design from ZAC even though it could have been changed in a more public way.
4. As always, support from ZAC has been excellent. In this case,
Caleb spent time on this problem including several communications and
parts of several days of effort.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:16 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>
>If you want to lose a bunch of altitude in a hurry without
>overspeeding the aircraft try a slip. I fly a Aeronca L16A which
>has no flaps and don't really miss them. When I put it into a slip
>it comes down like a rock (without gaining airspeed) - as soon as I
>release the slip I'm back flying at my desired attitude and
>airspeed. The flat side of the XL should make it slip pretty good.
>
>My understanding is that the flaps were added to the XL to get the
>stall speeds within the light sport category.
>
>That said, when my plane is done I'm sure I'll use flaps on
>approach. I will also experiment (at altitude) with slips with
>flaps extended as well as the ability of the aircraft to hold
>altitude and climb with full flaps.
>
>Tim
>
>---
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: |
amd plane parked in Lantana FLA has dual stick dual throttle, flew it this week
end. Dual throttle was a waste of space due to the fact that the center (copilot)
throttle was more convenient than right hand on stick and left throttle
for pilot. Save you self the hassle if going dual stck, and go single center
throttle.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Feb 13, 2007 5:04 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List:
>
>Has anyone use a dual stick, dual throttle setup? that is sort of what I had been
thinking of (you know, a side by side tandem!)
>
>japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote: Jay, I also have dual sticks in my XL and I had
thought I would use the single throttle in the center somewhere. Instead I have
the duals with spin friction locks. It is a little more work and $ to install
two throttles, but as a right handed guy I like landing with my most coordinated
hand on the stick and left hand on the go ball. If I was left handed the
center throttle would be preferred for me. This question is a preference point
only your taste in flying can answer. I have a couple hundred hours in 152,172
and Warriors and I always had to land left handed and I knew the other way
would work better for me. Best regards, Bill of Georgia N505WP 601XL-3300 105
hours
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jaybannist(at)cs.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 2:35 PM
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List:
>
> .AOLPlainTextBody { margin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial,
Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px; color: #000; background-color:
#fff; } .AOLPlainTextBody pre { font-size: 9pt; } .AOLInlineAttachment
{ margin: 10px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader { font: 11px
arial; border: 1px solid #7DA8D4; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
.Title { font: 11px arial; background: #B5DDFA; padding:
3px 3px 3px 3px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader .FieldLabel { font: 11px
arial; color: #000000; padding: 1px 10px 1px 9px; background:
#F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader .FieldValue { font: 11px arial;
color: #000000; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader a, .AOLImage
a { color: #2864B4; text-decoration: none; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
a:hover, .AOLImage a:hover { color: #2864B4; text-decoration:
underline; } .AOLWebSuiteCompose
> .AOLPicturesFullSizeLink, .AOLWebSuite .AOLPicturesFullSizeLink { height:
1px; width: 1px; overflow: hidden; } body { background-color:
white; font-family: "Verdana"; font-size: 10pt; border: 0px;
} .AOLWebSuiteCompose p { margin: 0px; padding: 0px; } img.managedImg
{ width: 0px; height: 0px; } img.placeholder {
width: 275px; height: 206px; background: #F4F4F4 center center no-repeat;
border: 1px solid #DADAD6 !important; }
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Dave Downey
> Harleysville (SE) PA
> Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce |
I thought that these were 2 piece, left and right? no work for 601XL if 2 piece
MaxNr(at)aol.com wrote: Does anyone have experience with this type of landing gear?
Looks like a big weight saving.
Click here: Composite Landing Gears from Aircraft Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/compositelg.php
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
brothapig(at)HOTMAIL.COM wrote:
> The only problem with that is, IF the latch should somehow fail in flight, you
WILL have a working spoiler, and I doubt one could recover and land safely from
that.
>
> What about a dual action spring hinge, one that pulls the door closed when it
is more that halfway closed, and pushes the door open when it is more than halfway
open? I don't know what you call these, but the same principle is at work
on most automobile fuel doors. Just a thought.
>
> Ryan
>
>
> I thought of that but there's no good way to do it being that you need the spring
to travel through the pivot of the hinge, offset of course. You'd have to
have the door hinge offset and mounted about and inch or so below the wing skin.
That or use one of those cabinet hinges that's has two hinges and works like
a parallelogram and springs into position in both directions. I'd still be
wary of it possibly snapping to the up position of the latch wasn't secure in
flight and then having the thing stuck in the up position anyway. You'd need a
wing tunnel to test the loads etc that it would take to snap the door up against
the spring loading. Seems safer to just have it spring loaded down for double
safety. You could also put a second latch on it like a car hood, pop the latch,
then reach under and pop another latch to fully open it.
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
> > Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 16:31:44 -0500
> > From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
> > To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Re: wing locker doors
> >
> >
> >
> > If you're going to spring load the locker doors, wouldn't it be a better idea
to spring load them OPEN? That way, they are not flopping in your way when
you are loading or unloading them, and the best part is that it is painfully
obvious if you have forgotten to latch them. I mean, if you start up and taxi
out with the doors sprung wide open, you are probbaly not a good choice for the
left seat.
> >
> > Dred
> >
> > ---- ashontz wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I think I'd make the door spring loaded somehow so that it stays closed
even if someone forgets to latch it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94837#94837
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: |
Since I'm doing dual sticks, I understand the pros and cons of doing that. What
I don't understand is why you would install dual sticks AND dual throttles. When
you go the dual stick route, the part of the console that extends forward
from the armrest and then up to the bottom of the panel is not interferred with
by the stick anymore (as it was with the center stick). That makes it the perfect
loctaion for a single throttle that is is easy reach from both seats. So
again, why complicate the situation with dual throttles?
Dred
---- David Downey wrote:
> Has anyone use a dual stick, dual throttle setup? that is sort of what I had
been thinking of (you know, a side by side tandem!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
There is not a single latch to fail on the wing locker doors is there? There are
multiple D-Zus fasteners or Cam-Locs or whatever. Is there really a chance of
such a multiple failure inflight?
Still the best route is a complete checklist and a dependable routine.
Dred
---- Ryan Vechinski wrote:
>
>
> The only problem with that is, IF the latch should somehow fail in flight, you
WILL have a working spoiler, and I doubt one could recover and land safely from
that.
>
> What about a dual action spring hinge, one that pulls the door closed when it
is more that halfway closed, and pushes the door open when it is more than halfway
open? I don't know what you call these, but the same principle is at work
on most automobile fuel doors. Just a thought.
>
> Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CH 701 failed landing attempt |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Amazing that these planes want to fly so bad...
My hangar buddy has put his 701 in the ground on a hard landing....
912S engine mount bent
Nose wheel bent
Right wing leading edge slat bent with wingtip end broke..
Can anyone tell us where to get a leading edge slat for the right wing...
Neither of us are builders....He would like to buy one...
Thanks,
Wayne McCullough
Eaa chapter 330 president
Briar Patch airfield (9GA1)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94874#94874
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing locker doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
If I go with wing lockers I'll have the multiple fasteners and the spring action
close, and the double latch. I don't want any unintended flight surfaces (spoilers)
sticking up. Everyone else is welcome to do whatever they're comfortable
with. That's what I'd be comfortable with.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94894#94894
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CH 701 failed landing attempt |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
I really am amazed how tough this aircraft is..........even when the engine mount
bent.........The prop (warp drive) sustained only a scratching of the prop
tips....
The nose wheel bent back and did not even hurt the engine exhaust....The main nosewheel
rod...did NOT bend.........Good grief thats tough.........
Oh yeah........Just had the bubble doors installed and a fresh annual...WAS running
great..........More gusty wind is what I am told.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94906#94906
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodney Mills <Ramills(at)charter.net> |
Listers,
I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's
even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used.
I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will
be buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is
interested they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal
, What a deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun
or a spare this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and
would not buy again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
Rodney Mills
Northport, Al
601XL/ Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Mikesell" <skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com> |
I have been using Harbor Freight rivet pullers for years. I have even pulled
Cherry #6 with them repairing working rivets on DeHavilland Twin Otter
struts. Best deal out there, my oldest one is 4 years old and still working
without a problem.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney Mills" <Ramills(at)charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up to
> now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's even
> with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used. I
> recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will be
> buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is interested
> they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal , What a
> deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun or a spare
> this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and would not buy
> again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I am sure that you could adapt a similar designed canopy to the 601, however it
would have to be built from scratch, not a modification of the 640 canopy because
the dimensions are all different. In the 640 it is a structural component
of the fuselage, tying the upper 1/2 of the firewall into the fuselage. It is
also quite complex, made completely of carbon fiber, with many areas a sandwiched
structure with an inner and outer layup. Since it wouldn't be primarily structural
in a 601, you could probably make a much simpler design and use fiberglass
rather than carbon fiber however it would have to be pretty sturdy to give
adequate support to the doors and the roll over protection you are looking
for.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94953#94953
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
steveadams wrote:
> I am sure that you could adapt a similar designed canopy to the 601, however
it would have to be built from scratch, not a modification of the 640 canopy because
the dimensions are all different. In the 640 it is a structural component
of the fuselage, tying the upper 1/2 of the firewall into the fuselage. It
is also quite complex, made completely of carbon fiber, with many areas a sandwiched
structure with an inner and outer layup. Since it wouldn't be primarily
structural in a 601, you could probably make a much simpler design and use fiberglass
rather than carbon fiber however it would have to be pretty sturdy to
give adequate support to the doors and the roll over protection you are looking
for. Also, being a very well made $4000 piece of the 640, it is definitely
not cheap.
Good info. I was wondering it was structural or not in the 640. Obviously it wouldn't
be in the 601XL so the contruction woould be easier. I'm going to have
to look into this.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94956#94956
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CH 701 failed landing attempt |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Thanks guys for the imput..........I am currently building a Kolbra.....
I knew that a lot of people watch these lists.....Matt sure does a great job.
Once again thanks for the information.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94969#94969
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Anyone have the SKU for the sale price? I just searched HF for "rivet" and
lowest price I could find on the 93458-3VGA 3/16 air hyd. Riveter is 26.99.
As for convenience of use..
Rodney, have you tried a swivel hose attachment?
ITEM 46123-2VGA
Or
ITEM 7535-3VGA
Thanks for the tip.
Craig Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Mikesell
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
-->
I have been using Harbor Freight rivet pullers for years. I have even pulled
Cherry #6 with them repairing working rivets on DeHavilland Twin Otter
struts. Best deal out there, my oldest one is 4 years old and still working
without a problem.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney Mills" <Ramills(at)charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up to
> now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's even
> with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used. I
> recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will be
> buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is interested
> they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal , What a
> deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun or a spare
> this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and would not buy
> again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wade jones" <wjones(at)brazoriainet.com> |
Hey Craig ,The catalog for HF is 881-C ,Key on back is BD3713 .Item #
93458-4BDB $19.99 . Hope this helps
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:17 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Anyone have the SKU for the sale price? I just searched HF for "rivet" and
> lowest price I could find on the 93458-3VGA 3/16 air hyd. Riveter is
> 26.99.
> As for convenience of use..
> Rodney, have you tried a swivel hose attachment?
> ITEM 46123-2VGA
> Or
> ITEM 7535-3VGA
>
> Thanks for the tip.
> Craig Smith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
> Mikesell
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:26 AM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> -->
>
> I have been using Harbor Freight rivet pullers for years. I have even
> pulled
> Cherry #6 with them repairing working rivets on DeHavilland Twin Otter
> struts. Best deal out there, my oldest one is 4 years old and still
> working
> without a problem.
>
>
> David Mikesell
> 23597 N. Hwy 99
> Acampo, CA 95220
> 209-224-4485
> skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
> www.skyguynca.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rodney Mills" <Ramills(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:47 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
>> to
>
>> now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's even
>> with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used. I
>> recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
>> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
>> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
>> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
>> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will be
>> buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is interested
>> they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal , What a
>> deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun or a
>> spare
>
>> this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and would not
>> buy
>
>> again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>>
>> Rodney Mills
>> Northport, Al
>> 601XL/ Corvair
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Mikesell" <skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com> |
Here is a link to the one I have been using. I have two of them and both
work fine. The one I have had for 4 years is a bit bigger than this one
but they don't make it anymore.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93458
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Brumpton
To: skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:14 AM
Subject: Rivit Gun
Hi David
Could you tell me the make & model of riviter you purchased & possibly
a link would be appreciated
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Josh Wilson <jwguitars(at)yahoo.com> |
I built the tail section with the rivet gun and also
had trouble with smiley's...I started using the hand
riveter on the wings and I was surprised how quickly
that went...It seems like a lot of rivets to pull by
hand, but the hand riveter works great...
Working on wings
--- C Smith wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have the SKU for the sale price? I just
> searched HF for "rivet" and
> lowest price I could find on the 93458-3VGA 3/16 air
> hyd. Riveter is 26.99.
> As for convenience of use..
> Rodney, have you tried a swivel hose attachment?
> ITEM 46123-2VGA
> Or
> ITEM 7535-3VGA
>
> Thanks for the tip.
> Craig Smith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of David Mikesell
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:26 AM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> -->
>
> I have been using Harbor Freight rivet pullers for
> years. I have even pulled
> Cherry #6 with them repairing working rivets on
> DeHavilland Twin Otter
> struts. Best deal out there, my oldest one is 4
> years old and still working
> without a problem.
>
>
> David Mikesell
> 23597 N. Hwy 99
> Acampo, CA 95220
> 209-224-4485
> skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
> www.skyguynca.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rodney Mills" <Ramills(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:47 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have
> used it to build with up to
>
> > now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and
> creating smiley's even
> > with pressure set as low as possible and flow
> controls being used. I
> > recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and
> tried it today
> > installing wing skins. This gun has very little or
> no recoil, no bounce
> > and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor
> Freight gun is not as
> > comfortable to use and the air line is in an
> awkward position but the
> > results in my case were far superior to my Zenith
> supplied gun. I will be
> > buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If
> anyone is interested
> > they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99.
> What a deal , What a
> > deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for
> their first gun or a spare
>
> > this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for
> Zenith gun and would not buy
>
> > again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
> >
> > Rodney Mills
> > Northport, Al
> > 601XL/ Corvair
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy" <ding(at)tbscc.com> |
Listers,
I also use one from H.F. I use a regulator at the compressor
and one of their swivels with an adjustable restrictor at the gun so it
pulls the rivet at a slower speed. Works great.
Lynn
601XL / Corvair Building fuselage currently
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney Mills" <Ramills(at)charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 12:47 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
> to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's
> even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used.
> I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will
> be buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is
> interested they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal
> , What a deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun
> or a spare this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and
> would not buy again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
All, I have received one of these types of rivet guns for Christmas, (my
wife), but haven't had any time to use it. I did read through the
directions, about the "Priming" part. Mine does have some oil in it, but
I am not sure if the amout is correct. The directions are very "UNCLEAR"
about how much oil to add. It just says fill the cap full, What Cap?
Any info would be helpfull.
Keith
CH701 -- not riveting, but cutting and forming ribs
****************************************************************
Rodney Mills wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with
> up to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating
> smiley's even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls
> being used. I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried
> it today installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil,
> no bounce and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun
> is not as comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward
> position but the results in my case were far superior to my Zenith
> supplied gun. I will be buying another one of the Harbor Freight
> guns. If anyone is interested they are in the current sale catalog
> for $19.99. What a deal , What a deal. Just thought if anyone was
> looking for their first gun or a spare this is worth looking at. I
> paid over $70 for Zenith gun and would not buy again. Inquiring minds
> may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and do not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this e-mail.
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
Did the Zenith nose piece fit the HF gun?
John Read
CH701 in Colorado slats and all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gull-wing Doors |
| From: | caspainhower(at)aep.com |
I considered gull-wing doors also, there are a few flying out there. I
ended up designing cantilever hinges so I could have a permanent windshield
and rear opening canopy. I had Todd at www.toddscanopies.com build a custom
canopy with a little extra headroom and a more gradual rear slope. For the
scratch builders out there, he produces an excellent product at a
reasonable price.
Craig
N601XS, 601xl, 0-235 lyc, wiring/plumbing left
I see no reason why that can't be easily adaptable to the CH601XL. If you
ask me
the CH2000 looks just like a CH601XL except with a hardtop canopy.
Doesn't even look all that difficult to make, unless I'm missing something.
----------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it from the
Nuclear Generation Group of American Electric Power are for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and
privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or
distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original
message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
John, the gun I got from Harbor Freight and the gun I got with the tool kit through
Zenith do not share the same nose pieces. I didn't even try to modify the
HF nose pieces.... I shipped a set back to Zenith and they did them for a small
fee.
Dred
---- JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:
> Did the Zenith nose piece fit the HF gun?
>
> John Read
> CH701 in Colorado slats and all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I didn't believe it till I saw it |
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twalker(at)cableone.net> |
You guys may have seen this 701 on UTube, but I missed it.
I didn't know it would do that, plus I'm not sure I would even try.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAN6jzbhEAw
Plus, here's another longer one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7DIVkrMIOU
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-035#95035
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
I sidestepped the whole pneumatic riveter bit. I discovered an electric drill
attachment called RiveDrill, from Isham, Inc. I actually used two of them, one
set up for A4 rivets and one for A5s. I nearly broke my hands pulling A5s before
I got the RiveDrill. Makes pulling rivets a cinch with no chance of smileys.
Tight spots still require a hand puller. I got one from Ace Hardware with
a swiveling head that works much better than the one I got from ZAC. I cupped
the nose pieces myself, with good results. (I don't work for RiveDrill,
Isham or Ace, but I can sure vouch for their products)
Jay in Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
Everybody spends money somewhere. Some here some there. I got a Huck 175
riveter. Lots of power, no kick back, very compact and light, lots of money!
I'm happy.
Aaron Gustafson 601 HD 11 years fly in two months????? 0-200 do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Com Antenna Wingtip |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear Thread Friends, anybody ever install one of the Bob Archer type com antenna
in their wingtips ? How was it to install and what kind of performance do you
achieve ? I think I remember an article in Kitplanes some years ago detailing
how to build it. Does anybody remember same or have the article ? best regards,
Bill of Georgia N505WP 601XL-3300 104 hours
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elwood140(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/14/2007 2:17:06 P.M. Central Standard Time,
agustafson(at)chartermi.net writes:
Everybody spends money somewhere. Some here some there. I got a Huck 175
riveter. Lots of power, no kick back, very compact and light, lots of money!
I'm happy.
Aaron, I'm convinced. Where can one buy a Huck 175?
Larry Wood
(N701LW will fly this year?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
list,
switching from the rivet duhick thing for a minute, is everyone getting the suggested
deflection on the elevator of 27 plus degrees up elevator. I have struggled
to get there. I checked dimensions of all pieces of control structure and
all are to specs. I asked the question before with no response from anyone..
DOes that mean everyone's elevator throws are as per plans?
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Mikesell <skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com>
>Sent: Feb 14, 2007 10:55 AM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com, John Brumpton
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rivit Gun
>
>Here is a link to the one I have been using. I have two of them and both work
fine. The one I have had for 4 years is a bit bigger than this one but they don't
make it anymore.
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93458
>
>
>David Mikesell
>23597 N. Hwy 99
>Acampo, CA 95220
>209-224-4485
>skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
>www.skyguynca.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Brumpton
> To: skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:14 AM
> Subject: Rivit Gun
>
>
> Hi David
> Could you tell me the make & model of riviter you purchased & possibly a link
would be appreciated
> Thanks
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it |
| From: | "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis(at)earthlink.net> |
There's a photo on the Zenith Website showing a Swedish 701 just about to nose
over and it says "Don't try this at home" Interesting that they'd post it...
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-115#95115
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/viz03loop_147.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
try
http://www.toolsusa.com/asp/item_detail.asp?T1=PBE+RSR+4766
<http://www.toolsusa.com/asp/item_detail.asp?T1=PBE+RSR+4766&GENB=&UID>
&GENB=&UID
or
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hucak175a.html
or
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--Air_Tools--Specialty_Air_Tool--HUCAK175A.
shtml
and
http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_systems/commercial/en/product.asp?cat_id=564
<http://www.alcoa.com/fastening_systems/commercial/en/product.asp?cat_id=564
&prod_id=2859> &prod_id=2859
Just a few from a quick Google
Craig Smith
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Elwood140(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
In a message dated 2/14/2007 2:17:06 P.M. Central Standard Time,
agustafson(at)chartermi.net writes:
Everybody spends money somewhere. Some here some there. I got a Huck 175
riveter. Lots of power, no kick back, very compact and light, lots of money!
I'm happy.
Aaron, I'm convinced. Where can one buy a Huck 175?
Larry Wood
(N701LW will fly this year?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing Gear for CH701 Scatch built |
Hi there,
Anyone out there gone through the process of bending the main landing gear
spring?
Really could use some input or thoughts on this mystery.
Thanks
brianbowen_@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Find out the restaurants participating in Winterlicious
http://local.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&cp=43.658648~-79.383962&style=r&lvl=15&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=3702663&cid=7ABE80D1746919B4!1329
>From January 26 to February 8, 2007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Gun - cutting the forming feature in the nose. |
Hi Ed,
You can buy a ball end mill at Traver's tool or MSC or any number of
other cutting tool places. I tried that the first time to make the
concave cutout in the riveter nose piece with medium results. I got
much better results with a little round stone or steel cutter in a
Dremmel tool.
When I did my nose pieces I mounted the old nose piece in a metal
lathe and cut the curved spot in the face of the nose piece while
turning the lathe. For those who don't have a metal lathe handy, you
can probably do just as well my mounting the nose piece in a drill
press or even a hand drill and spinning it while grinding and/or
cutting the face. It helps if you start by marking the outside
diameter of the cutout on the nosepiece with a magic marker before
you start. This will be the same size as the round flat part of the
rivet before setting.
I went through a process of cutting the nose piece and then testing
its use on the desired rivets. I checked for the shape I wanted and
flat edges against the "Skin" of the riveted piece. Adjustments can
be made in one direction by making the concave shape
deeper. Adjustments in the other direction can be made by filing the
end of the nose piece down a little. Finishing of the nose piece can
be done with abrasive cloth or even the dreaded Scotchbrite pads.
Paul
XL fuselage
>Rookie question here Bill. Where can I buy a ball mill?
>
>Dred
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ryan Vechinski" <brothapig(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
List, I was looking at routers today, as I think I am going to buy one
to help with rib forms, and I'm going to try the routing method for
cutting rib blanks. Does it make a difference when cutting aluminum to
get a variable speed router? I will only use this for the airplane, so
I don't need a wood worker's dream router; just something to last a
little while.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brett Hanley <bretttdc(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a good bit of experience with routers. I like the Rigged laminate t
rim router from Home Depot the best for cutting thin aluminum. It will acc
ept a Porter Cable template guide in its base. Also a good carbide straigh
t flute bit of 1/8 or 1/4 depending on what size template guide you have.
Grizzly Tool Company as a great book out on the use of a routers. With the
right templates and a little skill it is one of the most versatile tools i
n the shop.=0A =0ABrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
Personally, I used a basic older Sears router mounted
in my fathers home made router table. With a little
practice it work quite well.
A couple of items worth mentioning are first, be
prepared for a mess. My Dad's table has a 4hp shopvac
connected to a dust hood and aluminum shavings still
got everywhere. Second, make darn sure that you have
both eye and ear protection while using a router. The
high pitch whine is the perfect frequency and volume
to destroy hearing over a relatively short period of
time(just ask dear old Dad). The eye protection is
due to all of the metal shavings flying around.
Another item to keep in mind is, keep the amount you
are trimming less than the diameter of the router bit.
I found the vibration level too high if you try
cutting with more than one side of the router bit.
Overall this is an excellent way to cut parts blanks.
A quick touch-up with a file or flapper disk
(Homebuilthelp.com scratchbuilding video) and you are
all set for flanging. It is a good place to start on
a project to get used to working with aluminum.
Hope this info is of some use
I suppose this could be a good tip for the Archives.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Sitting on the wheels (temporarily) for the first
time.
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ryan Vechinski" <brothapig(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I have a couple of Porter Cable router bits, which I've heard are good
quality. They have worked fine on wood so far.
Anyone have any comment on the variable speed routers? Do I need that
option before cutting aluminum?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MacDonald
Doug
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 6:07 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Routers
Personally, I used a basic older Sears router mounted
in my fathers home made router table. With a little
practice it work quite well.
A couple of items worth mentioning are first, be
prepared for a mess. My Dad's table has a 4hp shopvac
connected to a dust hood and aluminum shavings still
got everywhere. Second, make darn sure that you have
both eye and ear protection while using a router. The
high pitch whine is the perfect frequency and volume
to destroy hearing over a relatively short period of
time(just ask dear old Dad). The eye protection is
due to all of the metal shavings flying around.
Another item to keep in mind is, keep the amount you
are trimming less than the diameter of the router bit.
I found the vibration level too high if you try
cutting with more than one side of the router bit.
Overall this is an excellent way to cut parts blanks.
A quick touch-up with a file or flapper disk
(Homebuilthelp.com scratchbuilding video) and you are
all set for flanging. It is a good place to start on
a project to get used to working with aluminum.
Hope this info is of some use
I suppose this could be a good tip for the Archives.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Sitting on the wheels (temporarily) for the first
time.
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Young" <armyret(at)mchsi.com> |
Here is my set up: Ky-97A comm- Flightcom 403 intercom- Allen grip
control (trim-PTT).
Problem: Won't transmit. I can receive other xmissions and the TX
lights up on the Ky97A when I push the PTT from either control (Pilot
or Co-Pilot) If you listen to another radio, you can hear a weak
carrier when you push the PTT but no voice. I can't get the plane to a
Avionics shop since I have not flown off the req 40 hrs yet. The radio
has been sent out to a avionics shop and declared as OK. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Al Young
N601AY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C Smith" <pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Hope this doesn't start a flame, but has anyone seen the new Sears craftsman
CNC router.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&cat=Bench+Power+Tool
s&subcat=Jointers%2C+Planers+%26+Shapers&pid=00921754000&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
It's pricey, but it seems a group of builders could pool together and turn
out some pretty decent parts. The table accepts stock up to 14.5" wide and
an unlimited length. Heck, you could start up a co-op to produce parts fast
and cheap.
I just thought it was interesting.
Craig Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dino Bortolin" <dbortol(at)gmail.com> |
I'm using an old, basic Rotozip-style router, single speed, that my
brother picked up at a yard sale for $5. It cuts aluminum beautifully
and I haven't wished for anything fancier. I also bought a round-over
bit which I use to radius the form blocks.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear for CH701 Scatch built |
Brian, I sent you an email to your personal address, with some information.
Keith
**********************************************************************
Brian Bowen wrote:
> <brianbowen_@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi there,
> Anyone out there gone through the process of bending the main landing
> gear spring?
> Really could use some input or thoughts on this mystery.
> Thanks
> brianbowen_@hotmail.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find out the restaurants participating in Winterlicious
> http://local.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&cp=43.658648~-79.383962&style=r&lvl=15&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=3702663&cid=7ABE80D1746919B4!1329
>
>
>> From January 26 to February 8, 2007
>
>
--
*************************************
*Keith Ashcraft*
ITT
5009 Centennial Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO
80919
(719) 599-1787 -- work
(719) 332-4364 -- cell
keith.ashcraft(at)itt.com
************************************
This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are proprietary and intended solely
for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this e-mail in error please notify the sender. Please note that any views
or opinions presented in this e-mail are solely those of the author and do not
necessarily represent those of ITT, Inc. The recipient should check
this e-mail and any attachments for the presence of viruses. ITT accepts
no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this e-mail.
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "j. davis" <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca> |
See how I did it: http://cleco.ca then click Homebuilding
How-to then Routed Ribs. No variable speed, cut 10-12 blanks
at a time!
Brett Hanley wrote:
> -->
> I have a good bit of experience with routers. I like the Rigged
> laminate trim router from Home Depot the best for cutting thin
> aluminum. It will accept a Porter Cable template guide in its base.
> Also a good carbide straight flute bit of 1/8 or 1/4 depending on what
> size template guide you have. Grizzly Tool Company as a great book out
> on the use of a routers. With the right templates and a little skill it
> is one of the most versatile tools in the shop.
>
> Brett
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Regards, J.
flying: Zenith STOL CH701/912 C-IGGY, 350 hrs.
building: Sonex #325, Jabiru 3300/6, 85% completed
-------------------------------------------------
J. Davis, M.Sc. (computer science)
*NIX consulting, SysAdmin
email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca
voice: 519.289.1527 http://www.cleco.ca
c/o Brandywine Aviation 5507 Irish Dr., Appin, ON
N42 47.33 W081 36.50 31/13 2000+ x 60', elev: 740'
-------------------------------------------------
To most people the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
Winners do what losers don't want to do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodney Mills <Ramills(at)charter.net> |
Guys
Not to beat a dead horse but I do have a proper regulator and a flow
restrictor on my Zenith supplied gun--no help with recoil. John, my nose
pieces supplied with the Zenith gun do fit my HF gun.
Rodney Mills
601XL/ Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio Problem |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Al, that sounds much like my set up. I had a similar problem. Could receive fine,
but when transmitting a high pitch whine accompanied the words. Fix was a separate
ground wire from the headset jacks up to the main ground buss bar. I had
thought the baggage deck where the jacks were mounted was ground enough, but
not so. The separate wire fixed the problem. Maybe it will fix yours. I talked
to David Cotton couple weeks ago. He said he finally got his plane parts to
his hanger in Winder and was running control cables. I will try to find time
to fly up there to help/ look see, but this RV-8 is using most every moment of
my time so I have to have priorities. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: armyret(at)mchsi.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Radio Problem
Here is my set up: Ky-97A comm- Flightcom 403 intercom- Allen grip control (trim-PTT).
Problem: Won't transmit. I can receive other xmissions and the TX lights up on
the Ky97A when I push the PTT from either control (Pilot or Co-Pilot) If you
listen to another radio, you can hear a weak carrier when you push the PTT but
no voice. I can't get the plane to a Avionics shop since I have not flown
off the req 40 hrs yet. The radio has been sent out to a avionics shop and declared
as OK. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Al Young
N601AY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601 xl looking for some dimension |
hello can someone help me with the dimensions x and y? it is for my 601 xl rtf
waiting on delivery.
Also looking for drawing and dimentions for footroom (Y control stick) to get carpets
made.
thanks for your help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-390#95390
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/parcel_shelf_973.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: |
Thanks Juan.
amd plane parked in Lantana FLA has dual stick dual throttle, flew it this week
end. Dual throttle was a waste of space due to the fact that the center (copilot)
throttle was more convenient than right hand on stick and left throttle for
pilot. Save you self the hassle if going dual stck, and go single center throttle.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Downey
>Sent: Feb 13, 2007 5:04 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List:
>
>Has anyone use a dual stick, dual throttle setup? that is sort of what I had been
thinking of (you know, a side by side tandem!)
>
>japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote: Jay, I also have dual sticks in my XL and I had thought
I would use the single throttle in the center somewhere. Instead I have
the duals with spin friction locks. It is a little more work and $ to install
two throttles, but as a right handed guy I like landing with my most coordinated
hand on the stick and left hand on the go ball. If I was left handed the center
throttle would be preferred for me. This question is a preference point only
your taste in flying can answer. I have a couple hundred hours in 152,172
and Warriors and I always had to land left handed and I knew the other way would
work better for me. Best regards, Bill of Georgia N505WP 601XL-3300 105 hours
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jaybannist(at)cs.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 2:35 PM
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List:
>
> .AOLPlainTextBody { margin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;
font-size: 12px; color: #000; background-color: #fff; } .AOLPlainTextBody
pre { font-size: 9pt; } .AOLInlineAttachment { margin: 10px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
{ font: 11px arial; border: 1px solid #7DA8D4; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
.Title { font: 11px arial; background: #B5DDFA; padding: 3px
3px 3px 3px; } .AOLAttachmentHeader .FieldLabel { font: 11px arial; color:
#000000; padding: 1px 10px 1px 9px; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
.FieldValue { font: 11px arial; color: #000000; background: #F9F9F9; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
a, .AOLImage a { color: #2864B4; text-decoration: none; } .AOLAttachmentHeader
a:hover, .AOLImage a:hover { color: #2864B4; text-decoration:
underline; } .AOLWebSuiteCompose
> .AOLPicturesFullSizeLink, .AOLWebSuite .AOLPicturesFullSizeLink { height: 1px;
width: 1px; overflow: hidden; } body { background-color: white; font-family:
"Verdana"; font-size: 10pt; border: 0px; } .AOLWebSuiteCompose p { margin: 0px;
padding: 0px; } img.managedImg { width: 0px; height: 0px; } img.placeholder
{ width: 275px; height: 206px; background: #F4F4F4 center center no-repeat; border:
1px solid #DADAD6 !important; }
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Dave Downey
> Harleysville (SE) PA
> Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike O'Connor" <mjoconn(at)pacbell.net> |
From: Rodney Mills <Ramills(at)charter.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
Does the HF rivet puller come with the appropriately cupped socket to
form the head of the rivet? Does it support the different rivet sizes
used on the XL kit?
Thanks,
Mike
Listers,
I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's
even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used.
I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will
be buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is
interested they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal
, What a deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun
or a spare this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and
would not buy again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
Rodney Mills
Northport, Al
601XL/ Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | fiberglass wingtip_position light |
Two questions for the list;
1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit well
except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at the
leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if that
would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave it,
fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a ring
connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second piece
of wire. Any other suggestions?
Brad Cohen
maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com
601XL, thinking about corvair power
5-6803
_________________________________________________________________
The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by Experian.
http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Bellach" <601zv(at)ritternet.com> |
| Subject: | fiberglass wingtip fit |
Re: first question -
I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil Lightweight
Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all gap. Seems to be
a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of the poor factory parts
fits.
Robin in AR
601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad(at)HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>
>
> Two questions for the list;
> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
> suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave
> it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
> ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
> piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>
> Brad Cohen
> maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com
> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
> 5-6803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
2) That idea will work OK. Make sure you sand off the point where
your ground wire will attach to the airframe (to remove any oxide
coating) and use an anti-oxidation compound on this termination. A
product called "No-Ox" is available for use on aluminum to copper
electrical connections. Anti-sieze might work as well.
>
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going
> to run a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket
> (housing) via a ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to
> the aiframe with a second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it |
| From: | "john300exc" <jw5677(at)hughes.net> |
I hate for my first post on this forum to be negative, but the roll demonstrated
on the You Tube video wasnt much of a roll. The aircraft nose is pointed down
as the plane is inverted and he finishes the roll about 90 degrees off his initial
heading. I also wonder how many Gs he pulled to get the nose level at the
end of his roll. It is hard to estimate his altitude, but how many mistakes
high he was flying? The 701 is a tough little plane but the wing is probably
not the best for inverted flight. It takes a significant push on the stick in
a Decathlon or Pitts to keep the nose up while inverted with their symmetric wing,
must take a massive push with the 701. Sometimes Dont try this at home actually
means, DONT TRY THIS AT HOME!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-491#95491
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Arnold" <arno7452(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Building CH701 DVD |
Listers,
I just finished watching the latest DVD "Forward Fuselage" from
HomebuiltHELP.com. It continues their tradition for professional work.
I highly recommend anyone owning, building or thinking of building a 701
consider buying it. Jon Croke's presentation is excellent. He points
out the areas to leave for later. This alone will save the builder many
hours of redoing or even worse, scrapping parts.
Regards,
Ken Arnold
Pikeville, NC
Building QBK CH701 w/912 ULS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bolding" <jnbolding1(at)teleshare.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I didn't believe it till I saw it |
Interesting video, the roll and loop were fun to watch but what was
VERY interesting to me was the impression that this aircraft has a
longer wing (the "European" version I've been told).
I ask every few months in case a new member has some info.
Does anyone have any information on the construction of the longer
wing??
I have been told (by someone that has looked at one carefully)that a
simple increase in span OUTBOARD the struts was done with NO change to
the web,caps,skins, ribs ect.,just the addition of one extra bay.
Can anyone add to that info, or throw cold water on it?
LOW&SLOW John Bolding
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LRM" <lrm(at)skyhawg.com> |
| Subject: | Oil in air cooled engines |
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you
could ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as
a Lycoming. My immediate reaction was "why?". He couldn't answer me
and I have yet to find anyone who can. I sorta think it one of those
"because we always done it that way" answers. If I was to get one,
which I'm not going to do, the first thing I would have done was put
synthetic oil in it. I might have been screwing up. So if anyone can
give me an answer, I might sleep tonight.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reply from the Corvair Authority |
| From: | "Bima, Martin" <mbima(at)hydro.mb.ca> |
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happannings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Mikesell" <skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Well we have several cetified aircooled Cont. and we only run
non-detergent oil during the break in on a new or rebuilt engine. Once
oil consumption has stopped showing all parts seated then we switch to
detergent oil.
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca(at)skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: LRM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Oil in air cooled engines
The other day I was talking to a friend of mine and he stated that you
could ONLY use NON-detergent oil in air-cooled aircraft engines such as
a Lycoming. My immediate reaction was "why?". He couldn't answer me
and I have yet to find anyone who can. I sorta think it one of those
"because we always done it that way" answers. If I was to get one,
which I'm not going to do, the first thing I would have done was put
synthetic oil in it. I might have been screwing up. So if anyone can
give me an answer, I might sleep tonight.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Afterfxllc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority |
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happenings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
Yup he is one smooth talker. The one thing that he omitted from his little
cry baby explanation is the fact that he also lied to the person that is buying
the airplane after telling him he would like to keep a good relationship
with him. The man never once said he did anything wrong but there are people
out there that will follow some right off a cliff I guess. As for my pro
builder status, I am simply helping finish a project I never had intended to sell.
I have put my other 601 on barnstormers but after meeting a guy that can't
build it his self he asked me to help him finish his also and I said yes I
would. I enjoy building and have been building one thing or another for the past
5 years. I am going to scratch build MY airplane along side the one I just
sold because I don't have the money to just out right build one to completion
for just me. And I dam sure don't have the money to send WW 5,000 dollars and
just wait for him to decide I need my parts now. I have made a lot of friends
in aviation and those that know me know I would bend over backwards to help
someone so what WW wrote about me doesn't bother me it really sounded like a
lot of excuses and non of it his fault. But I would ask you this... is there
anyone else out there that asks for 100% of your money to buy a product and
doesn't give you a delivery date? And sometimes never delivers the parts at
all?
I think if he truly is re vamping his way of doing business he should
require a 25% deposit and the balance upon shipping. That will show me he truly
cares about the low budget builder that doesn't have tons of money to keep WW in
business. I call it building yesterdays parts with today's money. Sooner or
later it catches up.
He also told me with regards to the nose bowl that he has no idea when the
guy that was going to make them will get to them.... but he will gladly except
your money even when he knows he can't deliver them and has no idea when he
can. As for us excepting a one piece instead of a 2 piece. After William told
me he had no idea when or even if he could get the new ones what would you
have done? It doesn't take a lot of work to cut it and make it a 2 piece bowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan" <hillsgun(at)nwinfo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reply from the Corvair Authority |
so what WW wrote about me doesn't bother me it really sounded like a lot
of excuses and non of it his fault.
Does this sound familliar? Could we please get back to building
airplanes. Dan.
----- Original Message -----
From: Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reply from the Corvair Authority
For all those that still have doubts about William, please see his
web-site for the most recent post. He explains the situation with the
build-for-profit customer, and the recent happenings in the hanger.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
StolVair 701
Yup he is one smooth talker. The one thing that he omitted from his
little cry baby explanation is the fact that he also lied to the person
that is buying the airplane after telling him he would like to keep a
good relationship with him. The man never once said he did anything
wrong but there are people out there that will follow some right off a
cliff I guess. As for my pro builder status, I am simply helping finish
a project I never had intended to sell. I have put my other 601 on
barnstormers but after meeting a guy that can't build it his self he
asked me to help him finish his also and I said yes I would. I enjoy
building and have been building one thing or another for the past 5
years. I am going to scratch build MY airplane along side the one I just
sold because I don't have the money to just out right build one to
completion for just me. And I dam sure don't have the money to send WW
5,000 dollars and just wait for him to decide I need my parts now. I
have made a lot of friends in aviation and those that know me know I
would bend over backwards to help someone so what WW wrote about me
doesn't bother me it really sounded like a lot of excuses and non of it
his fault. But I would ask you this... is there anyone else out there
that asks for 100% of your money to buy a product and doesn't give you a
delivery date? And sometimes never delivers the parts at all?
I think if he truly is re vamping his way of doing business he should
require a 25% deposit and the balance upon shipping. That will show me
he truly cares about the low budget builder that doesn't have tons of
money to keep WW in business. I call it building yesterdays parts with
today's money. Sooner or later it catches up.
He also told me with regards to the nose bowl that he has no idea when
the guy that was going to make them will get to them.... but he will
gladly except your money even when he knows he can't deliver them and
has no idea when he can. As for us excepting a one piece instead of a 2
piece. After William told me he had no idea when or even if he could get
the new ones what would you have done? It doesn't take a lot of work to
cut it and make it a 2 piece bowl.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/16/2007 2:25 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
| From: | "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au> |
With the earth I took an each way bet, and for the cost and weight of an extra
wire I ran a seperate earth wire for my strabe / nav lights back to the fuse..
I can always use it as a power wire later If I ever need an extra one.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-573#95573
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au> |
OK guys and girls
Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking out and
searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template demensions.. Hey
with all this talent I would have thought there would have been some. this
is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and give to
my motor trimmer
..
Chris
XL Sydney Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-574#95574
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Valentine" <mgvalentine(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
I don't think you need to ground the nav light separately. The strobe power
supply obviously needs to be grounded. But, I believe that one of the wires
running from the light unit back to the power supply grounds everything in
the light housing. At least, my lights have worked on the table and all I
have grounded is the power supply.
For the electrically gifted, am I wrong on this one?
Michael in NH
On 2/16/07, maureen cohen wrote:
>
> maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com>
>
> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
> ring
> connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
> piece
> of wire. Any other suggestions?
>
> Brad Cohen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim templates |
Chris,
Seats are pretty much same for the 601s. If you want to do separate
removable seats and backs, my web page "seats"
shows a method for making them from scratch. You can then take the
shaped foam to an upholsterer.
see link,
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
chris Sinfield wrote:
>
> OK guys and girls
> Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking out
and searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template demensions..
Hey with all this talent I would have thought there would have been some. this
is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
>
> Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and give
to my motor trimmer
>
> ..
> Chris
> XL Sydney Australia
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-574#95574
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip_position light |
if you look AT THE LIGHT HOUSING THAT IS TO BE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WING HOLDING
THE LENSE, THERE SHOULD BE A LITTLE WIRE, VISUALLY TOUCHING THE METAL OF THE
HOUSING, ITS DIFFERENT WITH EACH MANUFACTURER.
JUAN
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Valentine <mgvalentine(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Feb 16, 2007 4:46 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>
>I don't think you need to ground the nav light separately. The strobe power
>supply obviously needs to be grounded. But, I believe that one of the wires
>running from the light unit back to the power supply grounds everything in
>the light housing. At least, my lights have worked on the table and all I
>have grounded is the power supply.
>
>For the electrically gifted, am I wrong on this one?
>
>Michael in NH
>
>
>On 2/16/07, maureen cohen wrote:
>>
>> maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com>
>>
>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run a
>> short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
>> ring
>> connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a second
>> piece
>> of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>
>> Brad Cohen
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim templates |
Larry, did you get my E mail I sent to you last night ? Joe G N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Trim templates
>
> Chris,
> Seats are pretty much same for the 601s. If you want to do separate
> removable seats and backs, my web page "seats"
> shows a method for making them from scratch. You can then take the shaped
> foam to an upholsterer. see link,
> http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> chris Sinfield wrote:
>>
>>
>> OK guys and girls
>> Iam not the first to do the XL seats and side panels so I started looking
>> out and searching the web for the drawings. I cant find any template
>> demensions.. Hey with all this talent I would have thought there would
>> have been some. this is a kit so everyones should be about the same???
>>
>> Any one know of any templates I can view. download, word, PDF, ect and
>> give to my motor trimmer
>>
>> ..
>> Chris XL Sydney Australia
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-574#95574
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip fit |
All-
For God's sake, I thought this was over with the XL-3/8" of putty is not
acceptable!! Check the archives- this is one subject that HAS been flogged
to death.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Bellach" <601zv(at)ritternet.com>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:39 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
> Re: first question -
> I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil Lightweight
> Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all gap. Seems to
> be a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of the poor factory
> parts fits.
>
> Robin in AR
> 601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad(at)HOTMAIL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>
>
>>
>>
>> Two questions for the list;
>> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
>> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
>> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer as
>> suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
>> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
>> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I leave
>> it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other suggestions.
>>
>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run
>> a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via a
>> ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a
>> second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>
>> Brad Cohen
>> maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com
>> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
>> 5-6803
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip fit |
To be more specific, +/-2mm = +/-.0792. 3/8"= .375. It's your plane, but I
rest my case.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
> All-
> For God's sake, I thought this was over with the XL-3/8" of putty is
> not acceptable!! Check the archives- this is one subject that HAS been
> flogged to death.
>
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Bellach" <601zv(at)ritternet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:39 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
>
>
>>
>> Re: first question -
>> I had about 3/8" gap at the front of wingtips. I used FiberFil
>> Lightweight Epoxy Filler from ACS to reshape the tips and eliminate all
>> gap. Seems to be a handy easily worked filler to help clean up many of
>> the poor factory parts fits.
>>
>> Robin in AR
>> 601XL Zen-Vair, N601ZV reserved
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "maureen cohen" <maureenandbrad(at)HOTMAIL.COM>
>> To:
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:54 AM
>> Subject: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip_position light
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Two questions for the list;
>>> 1) i have fitted the fiberglass wingtip as best i can, it seems to fit
>>> well except for a 4mm gap between the fiberglass and the sheet metal at
>>> the leading edge. I have tried heating the fiberglass with a hairdryer
>>> as suggested by zenith, hell, i even tried (carefully) using a propane
>>> torch....(shudder). I also tried replacing the A4 with an A5 to see if
>>> that would narrow the gap, all to no avail. so my question is; do I
>>> leave it, fill it in and paint or does anyone have any other
>>> suggestions.
>>>
>>> 2) any ideas how to ground the position light? I was simply going to run
>>> a short piece of wire from the inside of the light socket (housing) via
>>> a ring connector and an A4 rivet and connect it to the aiframe with a
>>> second piece of wire. Any other suggestions?
>>>
>>> Brad Cohen
>>> maureenandbrad(at)hotmail.com
>>> 601XL, thinking about corvair power
>>> 5-6803
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
| From: | "secatur" <appraise1(at)bigpond.com> |
I'm not sure if it's relevant, but we always add 1-2% castor oil to synthetic oil
in our methanol fuel for R/C aircraft engines.
With such large oil percentages (12-20%), you wouldn't think it would make much
difference, but we have found that engines that aren't used all the time rust
with just synthetic oil!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-632#95632
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass wingtip fit |
Hi Bill,
I take a different view of the fiberglass gap in the wing tip.
I think the 3 mm measurement limit specified in the builder's manual
is a general tolerance limit for structural components. In any case
where this limit is exceeded it is time to call for technical support
and professional engineer judgement whether to accept the design
change or rebuild the part or structure in question.
In this case, the fiberglass is essentially a fairing rather than a
critical structural component. The gap in fitting this fairing to
the aluminum skin occurs in a place where there is normally no air
flow anyway since the skin is outside the fiberglass. I think it is
OK to fill this gap with any sort of material that you can get to
stick in there.
I realize this could be a minority opinion. Still, I have to
conclude that the strength required for the fiberglass wing tip only
needs to be enough to keep it from falling apart in flight.
Paul
XL fuselage
>
>To be more specific, +/-2mm = +/-.0792. 3/8"= .375. It's your plane,
>but I rest my case.
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | fiberglass wingtip fit |
...I used a hand-flanging tool to roll the edge enough to fill the gap...why
introduce more stuff? Keep it simple....
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fiberglass wingtip fit
Hi Bill,
I take a different view of the fiberglass gap in the wing tip.
I think the 3 mm measurement limit specified in the builder's manual
is a general tolerance limit for structural components. In any case
where this limit is exceeded it is time to call for technical support
and professional engineer judgement whether to accept the design
change or rebuild the part or structure in question.
In this case, the fiberglass is essentially a fairing rather than a
critical structural component. The gap in fitting this fairing to
the aluminum skin occurs in a place where there is normally no air
flow anyway since the skin is outside the fiberglass. I think it is
OK to fill this gap with any sort of material that you can get to
stick in there.
I realize this could be a minority opinion. Still, I have to
conclude that the strength required for the fiberglass wing tip only
needs to be enough to keep it from falling apart in flight.
Paul
XL fuselage
>
>To be more specific, +/-2mm = +/-.0792. 3/8"= .375. It's your plane,
>but I rest my case.
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob west <lsabuilder(at)yahoo.com> |
List,
The turbo-diesel web site that Sebastian took pictures of and mentioned on the
Zenith web site, is now open. Very little information yet, but the first will
be in a 701. I e-mailed the site and got a quick reply. I hope these guys
make a go of it. Someone needs to compete with Rotax.
BOB
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.P." <zodie(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Noise cancelling Intercom |
I was getting ready to take the Zodiac over the Tehachapi mountains
yesterday to visit Minter Field when the intercom died. It's an old
second-hand Sigtronics portable I got on Ebay for a few bucks.
I'm going to replace it with a new unit, but can't decide which one to
buy. Doing a Google search for "aviation intercom" comes up with a
page full of options, the one on the top of the page is
http://www.flighttech.com/ which makes intercoms with active noise
reduction instead of a "squelch control" knob.
Has anyone here used one of these? How well do they work?
Rick Pitcher
N601ZR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
>The turbo-diesel web site that Sebastian took pictures of and mentioned
> on the Zenith web site, is now open. Very little information yet, but
the
> first will be in a 701. I e-mailed the site and got a quick reply.
WWW link?
http://www.jarikaija.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
http://www.advertiser.fi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ZodieRocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
HYPERLINK
"http://vulcanaircraftengines.com/index.html"http://vulcanaircraftengine
s.com/index.html
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jari Kaija
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Diesel Zenith
>The turbo-diesel web site that Sebastian took pictures of and mentioned
> on the Zenith web site, is now open. Very little information yet, but
the
> first will be in a 701. I e-mailed the site and got a quick reply.
WWW link?
HYPERLINK "http://www.jarikaija.com"http://www.jarikaija.com
HYPERLINK "http://www.project-ch701.net"http://www.project-ch701.net
HYPERLINK "http://www.advertiser.fi/"http://www.advertiser.fi
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List"http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Zenith-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
--
2/16/2007 2:25 PM
--
2/16/2007 2:25 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
I must have missed the original posting. I assuem that this is very expensive and
can run on jet-A? How about RPM and weight?
Thanks.
Jari Kaija wrote:
>The turbo-diesel web site that Sebastian took pictures of and mentioned
> on the Zenith web site, is now open. Very little information yet, but the
> first will be in a 701. I e-mailed the site and got a quick reply.
WWW link?
http://www.jarikaija.com
http://www.project-ch701.net
http://www.advertiser.fi
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Winger" <larrywinger(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Assembly Drawing 6W3, number of hat stiffeners |
?
Hi Dave,
I went through the archives and found this email from you last year. I'm
now ready to proceed with my wing spars, and wanted to be sure I understood
them fully before cutting metal.
Here's my question. You say that the spar layout on 6W3 (for long range
tanks) shows 2 short and 1 long hat stiffener (6W8). I would agree that
both the rivet layout elevation (top of page) and the cap/stiffener/NRA
diagram (middle of the page) support that part count. Why, then, do you
think they show two long and two short hat stiffeners in the top view
(between the other two elevations)? I'm assuming it was just a mistake.
I was in Orlando on business for 3-1/2 days last week and leave tomorrow for
a solid week in Chicago. I'm trying to steal a few hours in the garage
today so I can make a little forward progress on these spars.
How's it going on your wings?
Stay warm.
LW
On 1/21/07, TxDave wrote:
>
>
> Page 6-K-0 of the plans shows the dimensions and spar layout for the
> standard tanks. There are 2 long and 2 short hat stiffeners specified in the
> plans for the standard tanks. Page 6-W-3 shows the spar configuration for
> the long range tanks which specifies 2 short and 1 long stiffeners. Note
> that the location of LNRA#4 is different for the standard tanks. I think ZAC
> should have put the drawings for the standard tanks on 6-W-3 and the
> optional long range tanks on page 6-K-0. That seems to be more logical, to
> me.
>
> Dave Clay
> http://www.daves601xl.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=89455#89455
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
Ron-
You were kind enough to send pictures of your Dynon pitot tube
installation and like an idiot, I saved the wrong posting to my
"Keepers" file.
Please resend.
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
Bill,
Try this link and look down the date files, around 1/15/07 to 1/22/07 was when
I was working on that.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-784#95784
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
I've been tracking my progress on my 601 XL, and today I will pass the 100 hour
mark.
Here's what I've accomplished in that 100 hours:
Rudder - Done (at Zenith workshop).
Stabilizer - Done.
Elevator - Done (with trim tab).
Corvair Engine - Disassembled, initial cleaning, baffles & pushrod tubes finished
and painted, awaiting parts.
Flaps - Both in clecoes (will deburr & cortec today).
Right Aileron - In clecoes (will deburr & cortec today).
Left Aileron - In clecoes, currently fitting trim tab (will deburr & cortec today).
Most difficult task so far: Removing several frozen bolts on my Corvair core.
First-time builder, so I don't know if I'm "fast" or "slow", but all those pre-drilled
holes sure are a BIG help. Sometimes I wonder if they didn't ship me
a QB kit by mistake.
I didn't track the time I spent preparing by workshop (insulating, putting down
an epoxy floor, installing lights and a heater), building my table, convincing
my wife, scrounging through junkyards for an engine, or researching on-line.
- Patrick
601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-808#95808
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
I didn't see any pricing. Anybody know...?
I would have (would still?) seriously considered a diesel for my 601 if one were
available for a reasonable price (Delta Hawk diesels are WAY expensive).
I've got a VW TDI and an old MB diesel, and if I could I'd run diesel in all my
stuff.
- Patrick
601XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-809#95809
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
Ron-
Now that I see the pictures, we might be talking apples and oranges.
When I built my wings many moons ago, the Dynon EFIS was out of my price
range, so I installed an ACS pitot/static combination for steam gauges. Now
I'm totally committed to going Dynon EFIS or an equivalent with a couple of
steam gauge backups. I have no intention of installing an AOA, which is what
your pitot is for, but hate to have a batch of unnecessary holes if I have
to re-install the necessary pitot.
My question is, do you need a special pitot for the Dynon EFIS, or am I
OK with what I have? This information wasn't evident a couple of years ago.
Incidentally, nice job of design and execution. If you're like me,
you're prouder of your own creation than you are of the rest of the plane.
(Sort of).
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 10:50 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon
>
> Bill,
>
> Try this link and look down the date files, around 1/15/07 to 1/22/07 was
> when I was working on that.
>
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-784#95784
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
Is there anyone out there that installed belly and/or turtle deck
strobes? I never wanted them on the wingtips, even before I decided to
polish, rather than paint. Too distracting.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
Duh! Just checked the Dynon website, and any pitot will work with
the EFIS. Still, I'd like to hear from anyone with a Dynon EFIS re:
pitot tubes used.
Thanks, people.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
If you are not going to is the AOA you don't need to use the Dynon pitot. You ACS
should work fine.
naumuk(at)alltel.net wrote:
>
> My question is, do you need a special pitot for the Dynon EFIS, or am
I
> OK with what I have? This information wasn't evident a couple of years ago.
> ---
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-843#95843
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Andrew Elliott" <a.s.elliott(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Heated pitot tubes |
Folks:
Since I do fly in the clouds sometimes, I have been looking for heated
pitot tubes. New ones run between $500-$900. Used 12V units usually go
for $150-$300 on EBay. I often saw 24V units much cheaper and wondered
how they would work on my 12V airplane. Since a heated pitot tube is
designed to melt off ice when it's -56=B0C, I figured that running it at
1/4 power might be OK for an occasional trip into clouds below the
freezing level.
I purchased a very nice 24V unit on eBay for $43 (including mounting
bracket and shipping!) and here are the two results of my
not-too-scientific testing:
[1] Hooked up to my 13.8V bench power supply, the unit reached a
temperature that burned my finger in less than 1 minute. I turned it
off then.
[2] Room temperature resistance was about 2.7 Ohms, meaning the start-up
draw should be about 13.8/2.7 = 5.1 amps.
This makes it about a 70-watt heater, which I am going to say is fine
for my purposes. Complete testing would actually measure both the tip
temperature and resistance as a function of time and environment
temperature, but I'm pretty happy as is. Of course, you should make
your own decisions about that for your own planned flight profiles.
Note that this is a pitot tube only, and a source for static air has to
be installed. I plan on using the $20 static air kit from Van's and
placing the ports on the fuselage sides about 1/2 way back, much as they
are placed in the certified aircraft.
FWIW,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD/QB, Corvair, building...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
Are you guys building from kits? I'm building from plans and have about 350 hours
in. rudder, stabilizer, and elevator done. right wing about 50% complete. I
have a fair amount of time logged for miscellaneous workshop related etc... so
probably about 250 actual build time.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-860#95860
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
Hi Darrell,
I flew a rented Piper PA28 for a few hours to stay current, then got an
hour of right seat time in a 601. The piper is heavier, the reactions
similar but its slower. Youll find an 601XL elevator is lighter and
more responsive, but the rest should seem very normal.
Draft a test program for flight evaluation progressing from taxi to
pattern flight to the working envelope so that it guarantees all
preflight checks are done including CG for the very first flight. Taxi
test for one or two days to check your engine, landing gear, fuel
systems, prop pitch setting etc. Get comfortable with progressively
higher taxi speeds to just light on the gear. Stop when youre fully
satisfied that your systems are reliable and youre comfortable with the
way the plane handles on the ground. Wait to the next good day to fly.
Youre first flight depends a bit more on your hours and your personal
confidence in flying the plane. Theres nothing wrong with having
someone fully qualified flying the XL first if you have concerns that
youre not ready.
If you have a tower, initially, ask for clearance for test space
directly above the airport at 4000 feet or so rather than leaving the
airport immediately. It would be good to keep a small voice recorder in
a pocket that you input data to and later evaluate engine and aircraft
performance after each flight. Before and after each flight for a month,
with a flashlight, check everything in the extreme for fuel leaks, oil
seepage, etc and eventually build a practical preflight check list and a
landing checklist that covers essential items that are specific to your
aircraft and continue to use them.
With your hours and one doing right seat in a XL, you'll do fine.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Darrell Haas wrote:
> I have about 130 hours in various planes and will be building a 601
> xl- 3300 Jab. and wonder how many of you who have built your own
> planes did your own test flights and if yes how did you prepare for them?
> Thank you,
> Darrell Haas
> Troutdale, Oregon
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Marzulli" <john.marzulli(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) |
When I started building, part of the planning stage consisted of trying to
figure out how much of a time commitment I needed to make. Searching among
701 builder websites, not much time data was available, so I publish and
track my time using a Blog.
Many things affect how long a project lasts, including how often you work on
the project. For me, the biggest effect is whether or not someone if helping
me. A helper seems to reduce time by 50%, plus you get someone to double
check all measurements and assumptions.
After approximately 137 hours ( most with a helper), the rudder, elevator,
horizontal stabilizer and flaperons have been completed. I'm currently
working on the wing skeletons.
Good luck!
- John in Seattle
On 2/18/07, PatrickW wrote:
>
>
> I've been tracking my progress on my 601 XL, and today I will pass the 100
> hour mark.
>
> Here's what I've accomplished in that 100 hours:
>
> Rudder - Done (at Zenith workshop).
> Stabilizer - Done.
> Elevator - Done (with trim tab).
> Corvair Engine - Disassembled, initial cleaning, baffles & pushrod tubes
> finished and painted, awaiting parts.
> Flaps - Both in clecoes (will deburr & cortec today).
> Right Aileron - In clecoes (will deburr & cortec today).
> Left Aileron - In clecoes, currently fitting trim tab (will deburr &
> cortec today).
>
> Most difficult task so far: Removing several frozen bolts on my Corvair
> core.
>
> First-time builder, so I don't know if I'm "fast" or "slow", but all those
> pre-drilled holes sure are a BIG help. Sometimes I wonder if they didn't
> ship me a QB kit by mistake.
>
> I didn't track the time I spent preparing by workshop (insulating, putting
> down an epoxy floor, installing lights and a heater), building my table,
> convincing my wife, scrounging through junkyards for an engine, or
> researching on-line.
>
> - Patrick
> 601XL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-808#95808
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Marzulli" <john.marzulli(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
To me, the biggest advantage of a diesel would be the ability to run Jet-A
and not have to worry about the ethanol content of fuel. There just doesn't
seem to be a good 100LL alternative engine for the 701.
- John in Seattle
On 2/18/07, PatrickW wrote:
>
>
> I didn't see any pricing. Anybody know...?
>
> I would have (would still?) seriously considered a diesel for my 601 if
> one were available for a reasonable price (Delta Hawk diesels are WAY
> expensive).
>
> I've got a VW TDI and an old MB diesel, and if I could I'd run diesel in
> all my stuff.
>
> - Patrick
> 601XL/Corvair
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-809#95809
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you won't have to carry as
much
fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no mixture to worry about!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Marzulli
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
To me, the biggest advantage of a diesel would be the ability to run
Jet-A
and not have to worry about the ethanol content of fuel. There just
doesn't
seem to be a good 100LL alternative engine for the 701.
- John in Seattle
On 2/18/07, PatrickW wrote:
I didn't see any pricing. Anybody know...?
I would have (would still?) seriously considered a diesel for my 601 if
one
were available for a reasonable price (Delta Hawk diesels are WAY
expensive).
I've got a VW TDI and an old MB diesel, and if I could I'd run diesel in
all
my stuff.
- Patrick
601XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-809#95809>
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.014).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.014).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
Noel,
Diesel/JetA is heavier than AvGas or MoGas
In a message dated 2/18/2007 4:56:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca writes:
Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you won't have to carry as much
fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no mixture to worry about!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
> Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you won't have to carry as
much fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no mixture to worry about!
Somewhere it was pointed out that although Diesel engines get better miles
per gallon they get about the same miles per pound of fuel. True?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
True... But not nearly so heavy as pure water (10 lb/Imp Gal). Gas is
around 6 lb/Imp Gal and Jet A around 7Lb/Imp gal.. You should also only
need a lot less fuel by weight to do the same work. The fuel is not
near as
volatile as gas but packs a lot more BTU per Gal. this is why they run
turbine engines on the stuff. If there were more power in gas it would
be
easy to make the adjustments in the turbines to run effective in it.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
Noel,
Diesel/JetA is heavier than AvGas or MoGas
In a message dated 2/18/2007 4:56:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca writes:
Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you won't have to carry as
much
fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no mixture to worry about!
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.014).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
No... There is more power (BTU) in a pound of Diesel than there is in a
pound of Gasoline It also is not as volatile. One down side could be that
diesels are notoriously hard to start in cold weather. They do need good
size starters and probably heavy batteries.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
> Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you won't have to carry as
much fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no mixture to worry about!
Somewhere it was pointed out that although Diesel engines get better miles
per gallon they get about the same miles per pound of fuel. True?
-- Craig
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.014).
http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
Bill,
Gig is right, any pitot will work. I just liked the AOA Dynon tube and do plan
to tune it in.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-929#95929
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
I am planning on mounting the AeroFlash units, nav/pos/strobe, on the wing tip
below my sight lines from the cockpit. That should take care of me getting distracted
by them. If the light bounces off clouds, just switch em off.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-932#95932
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | stuff about sunglasses |
Since there was some discussion about sunglasses recently, here is some
info a former Sonex builder shared with me:
>From rec.aviation.soaring safety FAQ:
"Polarized lenses are great for fishing but bad for
flying. Due to manufacturing stresses, there may be
small areas of polarization in an aircraft canopy or
windscreen and, if the angles of polarization in the
glasses and the windscreen differ, a blind spot can be
produced. Polarization may also interfere with depth
and distance perception, particularly during a bank.
Just what you need turning on final!"
>From the iPilot message boards (sorry about the
lazyman typing, with no caps):
"if you're looking for the best in lenses, try Maui
Jim's. (www.mauijims.com<http://www.mauijims.com/>) they make a style
that has a
very thin, flexible piece of titanium as the temple
and it has no hinges. i have a reuglar hinged style
and they are the best lenses i have ever used BY FAR!
i have a low tolerance for bright light so the more
protection teh better. the lenses block UVA and UVB,
and are polarized. the polarized lesnes can pose as a
problem in that they can partially or totally block
the view of some digital avionics. i have never had
this occur though. you can make it occur if you tilt
your head 90 degrees to the avionics, the frequencies
on your radios will disappear, then reappear when you
tilt your head back to normal. the FAA doesn't
recommend the use of polarized lenses for that reason
but there are no regs against them."
>From the FAA website, in a Federal Air Surgeon's
Medical Bulletin titled "Are Sunglasses in Aviation
Really Necessary?":
"Polarized lenses eliminate reflected glare from a
flat surface. However, looking through a laminated
aircraft windscreen, while wearing polarized lenses,
can result in a reduced retinal image. "
>From a website called
"www.iflyamerica.com<http://www.iflyamerica.com/>", in an
article about choosing the right sunglasses:
"But all pilots should avoid polarized sunglasses,
says Dr. William Monaco, an aviation optometrist in
Wilmington, Delaware, because they eliminate the
all-important glare or glint of light reflected from
other maneuvering aircraft that catches your eye,
alerting you to traffic nearby."
>From the website
"www.aviationmedicine.com<http://www.aviationmedicine.com/>", article
titled "Eye Protection and Optimum Vision for Pilots":
Polarized lenses should not be worn by pilots in the
cockpit. Glare from flat surfaces is blocked by
polarized lenses which are oriented in parallel lines
like closely spaced prison bars. Light parallel to the
lines is transmitted while non-parallel light (glare)
is blocked. Unfortunately, if the windscreen is
polarized and the lenses are not precisely oriented
the same as the windscreen, all light may be blocked.
Changing bank angle and head position could create
blind spots. For those who are boating and need glare
protection from light reflected off the water,
polarized lenses are excellent choices.
I also found that Flying magazine article about
Scheyden Sunglasses where they state:
The standard neutral gray lenses did not change the
colors of the instruments, which is key since the FAA
doesn't allow pilots to wear polarized sunglasses in
the cockpit.
I'm not sure where they got that info, since even the
material from the FAA site doesn't indicate it is "not
allowed".
So, it looks like the general concensus is that
polarized sunglasses aren't a great idea for flying,
but it isn't against the FAR's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Yet another photo assembly guide update |
| From: | "lwinger" <larrywinger(at)gmail.com> |
Hello all,
I just noticed a new update for the photo guide, surprisingly dated 3/12/07. These
guys at ZAC are ahead of their time in so many ways!
The update is for 6-W-1 "Wings: Flaps."
Since I recently asked the list a question about placement of the control plate
(6W1-3), I was interested to see that they now suggest that we not install the
plate until the wing is bolted on the fuselage.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL #6493 from scratch
Control surfaces complete/starting on wing spars
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-971#95971
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
| From: | "2thesky" <biggerspurs(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Float Flyr wrote:
> One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to start in cold weather.
They do need good size starters and probably heavy batteries.
Only diesel engines that aren't properly cared for, have fuel pressure problems,
or are worn out are hard to start. I currently own five diesel engines and
have owned many more in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start engine,
I have been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the problem of being
hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and more batteries
to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is, in fact, what
most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine so that they start easily
through keeping the fuel system in top shape. I own one diesel in a Ford
F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor trailers with big 550 hp engines and smaller
diesel powered aux. power units on them, too. None of these are hard to
start in the cold because they are all equipped with block heaters that keep the
coolant warm. When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated dipstick that
tends to keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. All of my trucks start just
fine in really cold weather. It has been hovering around 0 degrees here for
a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started everyday with no problems, usually
after just a couple of turns of the engine. One of my trucks sat outside
in North Dakota for three days last week. It started on the third turn. In fact,
I drive my diesel pickup more in the cold weather because the oil and coolant
is warm all the time, and my car has to start cold. The diesel engines run
smooth from the start and my car and farm tractor complain to me for the first
few seconds. It is my opinion that because of the block and oil heating devices,
my diesels suffer less wear than my gas engines from cold weather starts.
It is simply a matter of plugging it in to a 110 volt electrical outlet at
night, or just a couple of hours or so before starting (depending on the temp).
I prefer to leave them plugged in all the time when not in use. For an airplane,
I think I would leave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick
so!
not to
add any extra flying weight. To me, that sounds easier than the propane powered
pre-heater that I use on the PA-28 I rent now. Just show up at the hangar,
unplug and remove the heated dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick. You are
ready to rock and roll.
As for the starters and batteries, both of my semi's are equipped with auxiliary
power units so that we don't need to idle the big engine for overnight stays
and still run the heat/AC, provide electricity in the sleeper for lights, refrigerator,
microwave, engine block heaters, battery charging for the big engine,
etc. These units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by Kubota,
and require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my little V-6
powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very easily. The starters
are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt that for these lighter
aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or starter would be needed. We
do use huge starters on truck diesels, but I think that it is because manufacturers
realize that most will allow small air leaks in the fuel system exist.
I think these diesels could be great for airplanes if they can just keep the installed
weight down. I hope by the time I am finally ready to start building,
I will have a choice of engines that can run on diesel or Jet-A. I like it
more than gas because of the volatility of gasoline. Also, my auto and truck
diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer than my gas engine cars. One of my
truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I usually run trucks to 1.5 million
before trading them in or rebuilding them with meticulous maintenance, of course.
I am sure most aircraft owners, particularly folks who built them are
very good about maintenance. I hope that longevity will be the same in aircraft
diesels. Just my opinions.
--------
Every takeoff is optional, but every landing is mandatory!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-976#95976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bima, Martin" <mbima(at)hydro.mb.ca> |
A really terrific book I have is "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" by
Vaughan Askue. You should actualy buy (and I mean buy, because if you
borrow it, you will not want to give it back) it before you start
throwing the big parts together because it has quite a bit of info on
ergonomics and modifying the cabin to suit you (and your parachute).
It is surprisingly thin for what it is, but it has all the good stuff
from the first flight to envelope expansion and developing the numbers
for your aircraft. It is also honest and covers the real dangers (and
risk-reduction) of flying a new plane.
I do not have anything to gain by plugging this book, other than - ....
I just don't want to lend mine out anymore.
I am sure that others would agree.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brandon Tucker <btucke73(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus problems |
Gents,
I got a call from an HDS builder not too far from
me who is having problems with his Stratus. I fly
with a Corvair, so I am not much help. His engine
runs great on climb out, but when he throttles back on
downwind, it runs very poorly. I have a hunch that is
is a sync problem between his dual bing carbs, but I
am not a Subaru guy... I will relay any
troubleshooting tips any of you may have.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours
Never Miss an Email
Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john butterfield <jdbutterfield(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | wing attachment /cables |
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <paulrod36(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
So, acting real casual, like I just wanted to make conversation, I wa
lk up next to this guy who knows a lot about diesels, and I very casua
lly ask, "what's the horsepower, weight and RPM on one of them there K
ubota auxiliary engines?"=0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/Coprvai
r=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: 2thesky<mailto:big
gerspurs(at)HOTMAIL.COM> =0A To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com =0A Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 2:10 A
M=0A Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith=0A=0A=0A --
ilto:biggerspurs(at)hotmail.com>>=0A=0A=0A Float Flyr wrote:
=0A > One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to s
tart in cold weather. They do need good size starters and probably he
avy batteries.=0A=0A=0A Only diesel engines that aren't pro
perly cared for, have fuel pressure problems, or are worn out are hard
to start. I currently own five diesel engines and have owned many mo
re in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start engine, I have
been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the problem of bein
g hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and more
batteries to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is,
in fact, what most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine
so that they start easily through keeping the fuel system in top shape
I own one diesel in a Ford F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor tr
ailers with big 550 hp engines and smaller diesel powered aux. power u
nits on them, too. None of these are hard to start in the cold becaus
e they are all equipped with block heaters that keep the coolant warm.
When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated dipstick that tends to
keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. A!=0A ll of my trucks
start just fine in really cold weather. It has been hovering around 0
degrees here for a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started every
day with no problems, usually after just a couple of turns of the engi
ne. One of my trucks sat outside in North Dakota for three days last
week. It started on the third turn. In fact, I drive my diesel picku
p more in the cold weather because the oil and coolant is warm all the
time, and my car has to start cold. The diesel engines run smooth fr
om the start and my car and farm tractor complain to me for the first
few seconds. It is my opinion that because of the block and oil heati
ng devices, my diesels suffer less wear than my gas engines from cold
weather starts. It is simply a matter of plugging it in to a 110 volt
electrical outlet at night, or just a couple of hours or so before st
arting (depending on the temp). I prefer to leave them plugged in all
the time when not in use. For an airplane, I think I would l!=0A
eave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick so!
=0A not to =0A=0A add any extra flying weight. To me, that
sounds easier than the propane powered pre-heater that I use on the PA
-28 I rent now. Just show up at the hangar, unplug and remove the hea
ted dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick. You are ready to rock
and roll. =0A=0A As for the starters and batteries, both of my
semi's are equipped with auxiliary power units so that we don't need t
o idle the big engine for overnight stays and still run the heat/AC, p
rovide electricity in the sleeper for lights, refrigerator, microwave,
engine block heaters, battery charging for the big engine, etc. Thes
e units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by Kubota, and
require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my littl
e V-6 powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very eas
ily. The starters are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt
that for these lighter aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or sta
rter would be needed. We do use huge starters on truck diesels, but
I think that it is because manufacturers realize that most will allow
small air leaks in the fuel system exist. I think these diesels could
be great for airplanes if they can just keep the installed weight dow
n. I hope by the time I am final!=0A ly ready to start building,
I will have a choice of engines that can run on diesel or Jet-A. I l
ike it more than gas because of the volatility of gasoline. Also, my
auto and truck diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer than my gas
engine cars. One of my truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I
usually run trucks to 1.5 million before trading them in or rebuilding
them with meticulous maintenance, of course. I am sure most aircraft
owners, particularly folks who built them are very good about mainten
ance. I hope that longevity will be the same in aircraft diesels. J
ust my opinions.=0A=0A --------=0A Every takeoff is optiona
l, but every landing is mandatory!=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A Read
this topic online here:=0A=0A http://forums.matronics.com/view
topic.php?p-976#95976<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
=======================
=======================
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
=======================
=======================
=======================
=====================0A
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
| From: | "billmileski" <mileski(at)sonalysts.com> |
Things are a little confused here. There is mineral oil, and the remainder is ashless dispersant. Ashless dispersant can be synthetic or petroleum based, or a combination. An example of how Lycoming refers to them can be seen here http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/serviceInstructions/SI1014M.pdf
Mineral oil is not often the choice for normal, non-break-in operation (see above
link).
Synthetic is sometimes the oil of choice. Rotax recommends semi-synthetic for all-around
use, and full synthetic as long as 100LL is not used more than 30% of
the time. This is because fully synthetic oil can have difficulty keeping the
large amounts of lead in suspension, leading to accumulation, and bad things,
such as potential spalling of gearbox components. I mention the Rotax because
clearly not everyone is flying every day and yet semi- or full synthetic remains
the manufacturer recommendation.
Bill Mileski
701 912S 76hrs
>
> So true:
>
> Synthetic oil is great in engines that are used for long periods of time everyday.
For everything else, including differentials mineral lube. If you aren't
flying a couple of hours every day don't even consider Synthetic oils.
>
>
>
> Noel
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'059#96059
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
I just finished cortecing my flaps yesterday, and will rivet tonight.
The new doc is a lot better than the old one. It would have helped me. I really
like the way they do the piano hinge. The part about starting drilling from
the trailing edge is different too - the old way was "front - bottom - top".
I built mine on steel rails, so I wonder if it'll make a difference?
Note the photo where they have their control plate installed wrong, next to their
suggestion of waiting until the wing is bolted to the fuselage. I can really
appreciate the subtle humor there. [Laughing]
My control plate is oriented correctly - per the drawings, but there's no way of
knowing how far off I am until I get a fuselage. I only drilled the rivet holes
and the center hole (not a slot) so hopefully I have enough leeway there.
I'm glad they are updating their doc's. I'm happy with how it's all going so far.
- Patrick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'063#96063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brandon Tucker <btucke73(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus problems |
Larry,
Your post is the exact reason why I sent him in
your direction first. You are and asset to this
forum.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours
Want to start your own business?
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
John, you can disconnect the alerion cables at the bell crank. Tie a cord to each
and pull them through the wing as you pull the wing away from the fuselage.
Then untie the cords once they have cleared the wing. That way you have cords
through the wing to re-fish the cables back to the bell crank once the wings
are re attached. I have did it without the cords and it is a pain in the butt.
The electrics and fuel connections are obvious. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
601XL-3300 104 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: jdbutterfield(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <zman601xl(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 2007/02/19 Mon AM 11:53:39 CST
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
John,
I used to work on the F-100 jet fighter,and it had a nice quick disconnect setup
for the flight control cables when taking off the aft fuselage section.It was
a neat system because you didn't always have to re-set the cable tension.I too
would like to do my flyoff at an airport with a long runway(Niagara Falls Int,with
a 9800' runway).My home airport is grass and 2100' wth trees.I'm going
to check with the guys at EAA Chapter 46 and see if they have ever heard of cable
quick disconnects for a small aircraft.I'll post a message if I get any good
info.
Bob Haring,601XL
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
Hi Bill,
The idea with the cords in the wings to replace the aileron cables is
a great one. However, for those who lose the cord or don't have one
I can suggest a method to replace the cord.
All you need is a long stick, some cord, and maybe some duct
tape. You attach the cord to one end of the stick with the duct tape
and shove the stick in the path the cable needs to take. You can
remove the tape and cord end near the aileron bellcrank and remove
the stick. Of course this method won't work if the wing is attached
to the fuselage.
Paul
Washington State
At 12:02 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>John, you can disconnect the alerion cables at the bell crank. Tie a
>cord to each and pull them through the wing as you pull the wing
>away from the fuselage. Then untie the cords once they have cleared
>the wing. That way you have cords through the wing to re-fish the
>cables back to the bell crank once the wings are re attached. I have
>did it without the cords and it is a pain in the butt. The electrics
>and fuel connections are obvious. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
>601XL-3300 104 hours
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
| From: | "Jason" <ingram20(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant wouldn't mind
sharing some of your plane specifications? I have been reading gobs about
the engine and the plane and it seems like a pretty good fit to me, but I keep
having one nagging problem and since I don't actually have a plane or any real
experience, I was hoping that some of you might share.
I was curious what the useful load of a Corvair powered 601XL was?
With a full tank, using the Lycoming O-235 as a comparable engine of approximatly
the same weight (from the XL specifications page), I'm basically getting that
the max take off weight is about 375lbs.
This is important to me because my father and I are not small people, we both are
over 200lbs and even our most optimal and healthy weight would still have us
both over 200lbs. Can anyone speak to this from actual real first hand knowledge?
Any feedback greatly appreciated.
Jason
PS: My calculations were based on 24 gallons of fule on the XL weighing 145lbs.
520-145 = 375lbs avaliable for two passengers.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'098#96098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe" <joe(at)kfiz.com> |
I just purchased my basic white paint today for my 601XL and I found a real
great buy! I picked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane which is similar to
Imron for only $69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan Wisconsin and is used
by Oshkosh Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's like Imron. This stuff can be
mixed to match any color.
I also learned something today from these masters of paint! I asked for the
brightest white I could get and they basically talked me out of it! By
adding a little grey or blue, you don't need as much paint to cover, and it
looks better! I thought white was white, but he brought out about 50 shades!
I picked a deep white with a hint of blue instead of the hint of grey.
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies paint to the auto body industry and to
factories. I was told they have 5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
ordered by Leach Truck before they went out of business. It's a light to
medium grey and they will sell it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is looking
for that color, call 920-235-6520.
Joe Scheibinger
601 XL in Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe" <joe(at)kfiz.com> |
I just purchased my basic white paint today for my 601XL and I found a real
great buy! I picked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane which is similar to
Imron for only $69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan Wisconsin and is used
by Oshkosh Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's like Imron. This stuff can be
mixed to match any color.
I also learned something today from these masters of paint! I asked for the
brightest white I could get and they basically talked me out of it! By
adding a little grey or blue, you don't need as much paint to cover, and it
looks better! I thought white was white, but he brought out about 50 shades!
I picked a deep white with a hint of blue instead of the hint of grey.
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies paint to the auto body industry and to
factories. I was told they have 5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
ordered by Leach Truck before they went out of business. It's a light to
medium grey and they will sell it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is looking
for that color, call 920-235-6520.
Joe Scheibinger
601 XL in Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich" <4rcsimmons(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) |
I'm a above the 400 hours mark and am on the Fuselage sides.
Wings done and Tail section done.
Rich Simmons
601 XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Here is a quote from William Wynne's web site about their Corvair-equipped
601xl (look about 3/4s of the way down the page):
"Like Gus, Derek is a very burly guy. Together, they weigh more than 500
pounds. But the 601's efficient airframe, and its 44" wide cabin flew both
of them in comfort with a good rate of climb. In extreme cases like this, we
do not operate the airplane with full fuel. But two FAA sized people could
fill up the 24 gallon tanks on the XL, still carry 86 pounds of baggage, and
be within gross weight. With the standard Corvair engine, this combination
performs very well."
http://www.flycorvair.com/601.html
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions |
| From: | "StolBrit" <john.hunter(at)lineone.net> |
Hello Chaps,
I've all but made the decision to build a 701, (Quick build, once the European
distribution situation and LSA issue settle down), and having absorbed as much
as I can from the Zenith website and this forum, I have some questions about
the reality of flying the aeroplane.
- What's the real world cruise speed and endurance with the standard 20 USG tank
fit? Is there any need for the additional 20 USG tanks?
- 80 v 100 HP Rotax? Most of Europe (less the Alps) is relatively low! Does the
shorter T/O and slightly better cruise outweigh the extra cost and harshness
(?) of the 100 Hp engine?
- Have many of you fitted a ballistic recovery system?
There's a whole bunch of other questions, but I would appreciate your experiences
in answering these ones.
Regards,
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'135#96135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
Ron, Gig+All-
Glad to hear it. The last thing I wanted to hear after the wing was
basically all closed up, the plumbing run, mounting holes drilled, rivnuts
installed and everything bought and paid for, that I'd have to tear
everything apart and start over.
Been there, done that too many times.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon
>
> Bill,
>
> Gig is right, any pitot will work. I just liked the AOA Dynon tube and do
> plan to tune it in.
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-929#95929
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
Need some advice here.
There is not enough distance depth-wise across the narrow trailing edge of my flaps
to allow for two rivets to fit butt-to-butt.
One rivet is to be installed from the top skin of the flap. The other rivet is
to be installed from the bottom skin of the flap. The problem is that the holes
(factory drilled) in the top skin line up perfectly with the holes on the
bottom skin.
Installation of a rivet in either the top side or the bottom does not allow enough
space for installation of the rivet on the opposite side.
Hence my question: is there such a thing as a "half deep" rivet?
Ideas...?
- Patrick
601XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'169#96169
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brandon Tucker <btucke73(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
John,
You freakin' kill me... And you beat me to the
punch...
VR/
Brandon
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours - a few of them with two 200+ lb fat asses on board.
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
| From: | "PatrickW" <pwhoyt(at)yahoo.com> |
Great ideas. Thank you!
Here's what I did - hope it helps the next guy who reads this:
I installed A4 rivets on the line at the trailing edge of the flap. Did the ones
on the top skin first to present a better "fit & finish", and then set the
bottom ones in place "crooked". The A4's are slightly shorter than the A5's,
and where there simply was not enough room for A5's, there was enough room for
A4's if the A4's were slanted over to one side in the larger A5 holes.
As the rivet gun pulled the A4's, they straightened out as their length decreased,
and they ended up flush.
- Patrick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'187#96187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Josh Wilson <jwguitars(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
The last rivets in the top and bottom of the flap
skins are offset a few mm. Although this doesn't help
much if you've already drilled the holes I guess....
--- PatrickW wrote:
>
>
> Need some advice here.
>
> There is not enough distance depth-wise across the
> narrow trailing edge of my flaps to allow for two
> rivets to fit butt-to-butt.
>
> One rivet is to be installed from the top skin of
> the flap. The other rivet is to be installed from
> the bottom skin of the flap. The problem is that
> the holes (factory drilled) in the top skin line up
> perfectly with the holes on the bottom skin.
>
> Installation of a rivet in either the top side or
> the bottom does not allow enough space for
> installation of the rivet on the opposite side.
>
> Hence my question: is there such a thing as a "half
> deep" rivet?
>
> Ideas...?
>
> - Patrick
>
> 601XL/Corvair
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'169#96169
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Pam Fisher <dpfisher(at)scottsbluff.net> |
At 12:58 AM 2/17/2007, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any information on the construction of the longer
>wing??
Hi John and list,
I don't know how the European long wing for the 701 is made, but I have a
sketch from Chris H in answer to my request to stretch each wing by one
foot. His note says: "To retain full strength the web doubler 7V2-6SP
should be T = .040 ( instead of .032) and longer."
The sketch shows the web doubler made longer by a minimum of 160 mm.( 80
mm inboard and 80 mm outboard.) The top outboard corner has an AN3 bolt
with an AD-4 rivet inboard of it on the 80mm extension. There are also two
AD-4 rivets on each of the other three corners of the new web doubler.
My sketch is several years old and I'm sure that Zenith has done work on
the new CH750 since then so they should have better and more complete
information now. My advice would be to contact Zenith and request approval
and advice on the mod you are considering.
Chris's note doesn't address the details of adding a foot to each wing .
If I do the mod, my plan is to rebuild the wings from the last rib on out
and I'll add a rib.
My situation is that my field elevation is 4000 ft. and I'd like to operate
at altitudes that approach the service ceiling of the 701. My power is an
old A80-8 Continental which is also anemic at high altitudes. I think the
extra wing area will help so I'm seriously considering the mod.
If you've got lots of horses up front or are operating at lower altitudes,
I'm not sure that the mod makes sense as the 701 seems to be a well
balanced airplane as it is.
The down side to any mod , of course , is that you'll add weight and much
time to the project and you'll be the test pilot on the prototype, so you
won't have the safety cushion that you get from a proven design with lots
of safe hours.
Please let me know what you decide to do.
Good Luck!
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl |
Hello,
we have found a new Navaid AP1 when we cleared out an avionic shop but i look for
some HELP
Can anyone help me with a wiring diagram for the 12pin electrical socket ?
also would be thankfull for some pics for the installation for the servo
Thanks allready now
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'220#96220
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron trim for a CH701 |
| From: | "mcolbeck" <mark(at)dogpound.anikast.ca> |
Can Aileron trim for a CH701 be done when equipped with flaperons? And if so is
there a special type and installation that I will require for flaperons?
--------
CH701 Builder and new flyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'243#96243
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike honer" <amhoner(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
John, what I decided to do was to put the fairleads on the outside of the
fuselage, mounted with #10 fasteners. Remove the fairlead, unscrew the cable
by turning the adjusting barrel, and pulling the cable and end-piece
assembly thru the big hole in the fuse.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "john butterfield" <jdbutterfield(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
>
>
> hi list
>
> i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
> wondering how you can take the wings off later and
> disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
> put it together, the cables cannot be easily
> disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
> adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
> acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
> that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
> this problem. any suggestions.
> john butterfield
> 601XL, corvair
> torrance, ca
>
>
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
| From: | "ashontz" <ashontz(at)nbme.org> |
Jason wrote:
> Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant wouldn't
mind sharing some of your plane specifications? I have been reading gobs about
the engine and the plane and it seems like a pretty good fit to me, but I keep
having one nagging problem and since I don't actually have a plane or any real
experience, I was hoping that some of you might share.
>
> I was curious what the useful load of a Corvair powered 601XL was?
>
> With a full tank, using the Lycoming O-235 as a comparable engine of approximatly
the same weight (from the XL specifications page), I'm basically getting
that the max take off weight is about 375lbs(useful load w/ full tank).
>
> This is important to me because my father and I are not small people, we both
are over 200lbs and even our most optimal and healthy weight would still have
us both over 200lbs. Can anyone speak to this from actual real first hand knowledge?
>
> Any feedback greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason
>
> PS: My calculations were based on 24 gallons of fuel on the XL weighing 145lbs.
520-145 = 375lbs avaliable for two passengers.
I think you'll find the new gross weight of the XL can be up to 1320 and still
be sport pilot. Don't quote me though. I've seen people report and loaded XL with
a Corvair weighing in at 735lbs giving, 1320 - 735 = 585 useful load. 585
- 145 = 440 means two 220lb people. I'd guess the that 735 may even be a bit high
too. Depends on how many radios and whatnot you have in the thing. You could
always go with 3/4 filled tanks too. How often will you be flying with your
Dad? You could always look into the CH640. I believe that can even be built from
plans. Don't know how heavy an engine that takes but I'd guess and Chevy small
block v-6 conversion would fit confortably on that puppy and easily give
you 180hp without stressing the engine. There's some good auto engine conversion
books out there that feature the chevy v-6. I wouldn't put one on an XL though.
The Corvair seems ideal for the XL.
Personally, I don't trust the high revving engines. Seems like too much stress and heat, plus they sound whacky. They don't sound like a real plane at all. Check out Scott Laughlin's videos of his Corvair running. Sounds awesome. www.cookinwithgas.com. I also don't trust the reduction belt drives on the Rotaxes. Ever have a timig belt go in a car? Same deal, except you can't pull over. Belts are great concepts for motorcycle drives, not for planes. Just more complications and things to go wrong. The idea behind an airplane engine is to be light, low-stress, simple, and reliable. And they're more reliable when they're simple. I have an 21 year 140hp outboard on my boat. Always runs. Simple design. I see more people with newer more complex engines broken down than Ive had problems myself. Same with airplane engines.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'261#96261
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Peterson" <brian(at)epetersons.com> |
You can send the HF rivet gun heads to Zenith and they'll machine the cups
for $11.99 I think.
On 2/15/07, Mike O'Connor wrote:
>
> From: Rodney Mills <Ramills(at)charter.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Does the HF rivet puller come with the appropriately cupped socket to form
> the head of the rivet? Does it support the different rivet sizes used on the
> XL kit?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
> ** **
> *Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
> to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's
> even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used.
> I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will
> be buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is
> interested they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal
> , What a deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun
> or a spare this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and
> would not buy again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Brian Peterson
brian(at)epetersons.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
Jason, I don't know where you are located but if east central Fla is not to far
away go by William Wynne's place. I'll bet you could talk him into a flight.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'285#96285
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)cox.net> |
a 3 or 4 mm offset will do it.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'289#96289
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
I have already drilled and cut the flap plates to the location and dimensions on
the drawing. Does anybody who already fitted the flaps and flap controls have
any comments on the issues they had here? I am guessing that their input to
ZAC led to this change. Should I go ahead and buy some more nylon material
before I get to this point and find it doesn't fit right? Just wondering.
Thanks
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'294#96294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl |
There are some pictures of various AP servos installed in 601's in the file
archive:
www.matronics.com/photoshare/craig(at)craigandjean.com.02.11.2006/
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks for the update Larry,
David Gallagher, I'm in the same position as you. I plan on drilling the pin hole
in the control arm after fitting the wing/flaps. That should make it all
line up.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'307#96307
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aprazer" <aprazer(at)cableone.net> |
Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for
50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'329#96329
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aprazer" <aprazer(at)cableone.net> |
Ladies and Gents,
I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where to install
it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what kind of handle
works best? Can anyone supply me with this info and possibly pictures?
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'331#96331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
I wrapped my exhaust system and haven't had any trouble with it in
180 flight hours. That price is cheaper than J. C. Whitney's.
>
> Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have
> approximately 1/4 inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe.
> I have considered wrapping the exhaust pipe with the insulating
> wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for 50' 2" roll or trimming
> the cowling, which could be unsightly.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Mack, exactly where is the pipe close to the cowl and how much pipe ? If it is
at a bend and only a small portion is near it it may not be a problem. Also, inside
the cowl a bunch of air is pulling though to the bottom exit real fast and
my ground and flight tests of inside cowl tempts were very reasonable. Up on
the firewall at the rectifier, with the air temperature on the ground of 100
degrees, at 3500 feet and 135 mph the max temperature was 123 degrees on my digital
meter. On the ground after the flight during taxi it went down to 93 degrees
which was 7 degrees cooler than the outside temperature. Weird huh ? Even
in hot Georgia summertime. Before doing any cowl cutting I would suggest you
do more checking. The distance of 1/4 inch you speak of is about the distance
I have on my bottom end where the pipes exit the cowl and I have seen no heat
marks. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: aprazer(at)cableone.net
Sent: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 3:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 3300 Exhaust
Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for 50'
2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'329#96329
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Mack, again, I built my XL with only left side brakes and no parking break valve.
At the annual teardown I added brakes on the right side and the Matco parking
break valve. Best mods I have made to date and wish I had installed them in
building as you are. Working standing on my head was a real pain!!. I mounted
the valve in the center of the plane on top of the heal pan. I made a bracket
for a pull cable and ran the knob under the dash at the far left out of the way
for entry. Works great and it should be a standard part on the XL. I wish I
had some photos to send you as I'm proud of how well it came out. You are welcome
to come see it anytime your nearby. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: aprazer(at)cableone.net
Sent: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Parking brake
Ladies and Gents,
I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where to
install it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what kind of
handle works best? Can anyone supply me with this info and possibly pictures?
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'331#96331
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
Hi Mack,
You have two options, one of making an adaptive bump in your lower cowl
which can look good.
Or the cowl can be trimmed out and an extension of aluminum that will
withstand the temps better.
I've done both of these progressing from the first to the second option
and also have wrapped my
stainless exhaust with the belting. It can be neatly done and not foul
your sensitivities or prevent you
from putting in EGT sensors. See the following links from my cowl page
and engine page.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/formnmold.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/matoverlay.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/lowercowl1.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowlfairingsinside.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/subaruengine/full/exhaustwrapsilver.gif
Neither of these are hard to do.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmahine.com
aprazer wrote:
>
> Ladies and Gents,
> Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping
the exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43
for 50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Mack
> 601XL in final stages
>
> --------
> The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
Mack,I do not know what the clearance is on mine, but it is close. I
hope to be enjoying the sky tomorrow and will look; however, Ishould
think that the temps near the end of the exhaust pipes would notbe too
high with the 1/4 inch clearance to cause any heat distortion,especially
considering the airflow in the area. I would definitely not trim
cowling lip, as that helps to create the low pressure for cowling
airflowfor cooling the cylinders.Tony GrazianoXL/Jab3300A N493TG 209 hrs
------Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have
approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered
wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43
for
50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
I've attached pictures of how the valve is installed in Bob Archibald's
601XL at Dragonfly Aviation. Note that his plane has pilot and copilot brake
pedals.
Also look at the link below for how the valve was installed in an RV-7.
There are links to the Matco diagrams and some of the fittings which make
for a cleaner installation. For a knob I just bought one of Spruce's cheaper
push/pull cables.
www.rvproject.com/20030521.html
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Diesel Zenith |
There is another A/C Diesel on the market. This company is in Great Britian
and is shipping their 100 hp. They have flown it in a Pietenpol. There are also
instalations in Thorp T-211 and Europa. I got a price some months ago for >
$20K.
www.wilksch.com
Also found (and misplaced) a recent letter from FAA re: type cerification of
diesels. You have to disable a cylinder during tests, then see if the vibs
don't break the motor mount.
Bob Dingley
601XL(Lyc)
**************************************
Check out free AOL at
security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free
AOL Mail and much more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions |
| From: | "StolBrit" <john.hunter(at)lineone.net> |
Many Thanks to Dick, Max and Dan who have already replied direct by email reporting
the experience of themselves and colleagues.
Standard 20 USG tanks Standard is good (up to 5hrs endurance and 400 miles), unless
fuel availability en route is an issue.
Rotax 80 v 100hp Seems that the 80hp Rotax is 'more than adequate' for landplane
T/O, but the 100hp can add up to 15mph to the cruise (and the relatively slow
cruise is the 701's only real downside - but you can't have it all). So, 80hp
= 85mph and 100hp = 100mph cruise then.
BRS STOL performance and strength say its not required, but why would you not fit
it?
This summary does not do justice to their emails and the words are mine. I'll
be back here when a new route for a UK QBK becomes possible again following the
termination of the CZAW arrangement with Zenair last summer - and this seems
partly tied up with EASA's resolution of European LSA rules ...
In the meantime, I'll keep reading the boards - and plan for a 80hp rotax with
standard tanks and a BRS! (Oh and a Dynon panel!)
... unless of course anyone else wants to re-open the debate!
Good building and flying - Regards,
John
[/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'379#96379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Bellach" <601zv(at)ritternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
I put mine just left of center about 11" up on the firewall, and fabricated
a bracket several inches above it for a control cable to the insrument
panel.
Robin in AR
N601ZV
----- Original Message -----
From: "aprazer" <aprazer(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 2:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Parking brake
>
> Ladies and Gents,
> I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where
> to install it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what
February 07, 2007 - February 20, 2007
Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-gm