Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-ht
February 20, 2008 - March 04, 2008
goes through the firewall and through a bent steel plate in back which also
bolts into the flange of the firewall. Presumably whatever mount you're building
could be attached the same way.
Incidentally, the previous 912 bed-mount mounts a little differently right here.
The mount tab sticks up rather than to the left, so it overlaps on top of 7F7-1SP.
That way the bolt goes through 7F7-1SP as well, which seems a little
more durable to me.
Hope that helps. Drop me an email offline if not, or give Zenith a call.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165154#165154
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1488_142.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Manual for sale |
Hi All,
I have a brand new extra copy of Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric Connection
Manual Revision 11 which I am selling for $30 including priority mail
shipping in the US.
Please let me know if you are interested.
Thanks,
John Davis
Burnsville, NC
601XL QB - Jab 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sabrina Re: pitching the H-stab |
Hi, Ben,
Have you considered adjusting the flap pushpull tube to position the
flaperons to give you that little bit that gives you the "sweet spot" pitch
attitude and the 4 mph? Seems to me that would be your best "no-flap"
setting.
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XL WING BOLTS?? |
Hi, Bryan,
Rather than leaving out the washer under the bolt-head, a better way to get
proper thread exposure is to use thin washers, i.e., AN-960-516L. The
washer under the bolt-head serves as a bearing during tightening as well as
a spacer.
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zill Coleman" <zill(at)pinnacletrans.com> |
My 601HDS has two 10 gallon leading edge fuel tanks. I want to add 3-5
gallons fuel capacity. Will have the wing skins off. Any suggestions?
HDS 235L2C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Hey <jerry(at)jerryhey.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 motor mount attach points on firewall |
John, thanks. That helps a lot. I notice that you have installed
7F7-5 firewall stiffeners at an angle instead of vertical. Does that
have to do with the Rotax installation? One last question, what is
the capacity of the Rotax oil tank? Thanks again, Jerry
>
> Jerry:
> I've attached a picture of the left side of my 912 ring mount. You
> can see the tab sticking out to the left where it will be bolted to
> the firewall. The bolt goes through the firewall and through a bent
> steel plate in back which also bolts into the flange of the
> firewall. Presumably whatever mount you're building could be
> attached the same way.
>
> Incidentally, the previous 912 bed-mount mounts a little differently
> right here. The mount tab sticks up rather than to the left, so it
> overlaps on top of 7F7-1SP. That way the bolt goes through 7F7-1SP
> as well, which seems a little more durable to me.
>
> Hope that helps. Drop me an email offline if not, or give Zenith a
> call.
>
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165154#165154
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1488_142.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
| From: | "txpilot" <djg7(at)comcast.net> |
Brad,
Getting back to the original subject, page 7-301 of AC 43.13-1B shows proper torque
values. Yes, they are based on shank size, not wrench size. I have this
page posted on my workbench as I seem to refer to it almost every day.
As opposed to a torque wrench you'd find at Home Depot, I strongly recommend taking
the plunge and buying a quality torque wrench. I have one from US Tool -
model TP349 and it's great. If you're planning on installing a Rotax, You'll
definitely use the metric (Newton-meter) side for your engine work. I know it's
expensive, but IMHO it is a must-have. Here is their website:
http://www.ustool.com/
That's my two cents.
Dan Ginty
N787DG
90% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165215#165215
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tp349_torque_wrench_199.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kensmith(at)springnet1.com" <kensmith(at)springnet1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 02/19/08 |
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sabrina Re: Pitching the H-Stab.
Two changes to the aircraft by changing the pitch to the H-Stab has not
yet been addressed.
#1 - People in the agriculture spraying business sometimes increase the
up pitch to the H-Stab
because they have a out of aft CG when fully loaded. The tail assembly
on an aircraft helps the
loading and CG of the aircraft's stability in the flying mode. When you
increase the angle of attack
on the H-Stab you increase the loading on the tail section of the
aircraft which in turn decreases
some of the loading on the main wing spar section. Reduce the main wing
loading and you will
reduce the stall speed of the aircraft.
#2 - If you reduce the angle of attack of the H-Stab, just the opposite
will occur. You have
reduced the loading to the tail section and in turn increased the
loading on the main wing spar
section. You have then made the aircraft a less stable as well as you
have increased the
STALL SPEED of your aircraft.
Ken Smith
>From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sabrina Re: pitching the H-stab
>
>The stabilizer has little to do with the cruise flight attitude of the
>fuselage, it mainly has to do with the trim condition of the airplane.
>If you can trim out the elevator forces in cruise without excessive
>trim tab deflection, re-pitching the stabilizer won't help you. I re-
>pitched my stabilizer because I couldn't trim out the stick forces,
>not because the attitude of the airplane was wrong. I had to hold back
>pressure on the stick all the time to keep the plane from diving.
>
>The cruise flight attitude of the fuselage is controlled mainly by the
>angle of incidence of the main wing. Increasing the angle of incidence
>of the main wing will bring the nose of the fuselage down, but then
>you will also have to pitch the stabilizer up to get it back into trim.
>
>On Feb 19, 2008, at 1:26 AM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>With all the talk of pitching the horizontal stabilizer lately I
>>have a quick question. I am doing my conditional inspection on my
>>701 and decided to replace the front horizontal stabilizer brackets
>>to the .063 material. There were no cracks in my old ones but I
>>figured I might as well bite the bullet now while the weather is
>>keeping me from flying anyway. I have always felt that I was flying
>>in a nose high attitude while at cruise and that I do not see the
>>higher MPH that others see. I purchased a digital level and have
>>discovered that my horizontal stabilizer was about a half of a
>>degree low in the front (approx 3 mm). I plan on raising it one
>>degree so that I will be a half of a degree higher in the front
>>based on the A-E line. I am wondering if this is a good idea as I
>>believe this will get me flying in a better attitude at cruise and
>>pick up some speed. Any thoughts?
>>
>>Bob Spudis
>>N701Zx/ CH-701/ 912S/ 140hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeyoung65(at)aol.com |
Why not add the wing baggage comp. fuel tanks? Jerry of Ga
In a message dated 2/20/2008 10:38:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
zill(at)pinnacletrans.com writes:
My 601HDS has two 10 gallon leading edge fuel tanks. I want to add 3-5
gallons fuel capacity. Will have the wing skins off. Any suggestions?
HDS 235L2C
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Sturgis <bobefx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric Connection Manual for sale |
I am interested. I am just gathering all my insterments and getting ready to wire.
Bob Sturgis
bobefx(at)yahoo.com
601xl QB
818-902-9354 work 6am - 6pm Mon to Sat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
Hi Zill,
I'd recommend you look at putting extra tanks in the wing lockers or use
a small header.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Zill Coleman wrote:
> My 601HDS has two 10 gallon leading edge fuel tanks. I want to add
> 3-5 gallons fuel capacity. Will have the wing skins off. Any
> suggestions?
>
> HDS 235L2C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diesel engines |
| From: | "dalemed" <dalemed(at)gmail.com> |
You might be interested in the Gemini 100 by Powerplant Developements in England.
I saw the engine at the Light Sport Expo in Florida and really like the looks
and idea of it.
Its 100bhp at 2500rpm and has a specific fuel consumption of 0.37 at 75%. The
total installed wet weight is 190.5 lbs. That's competitive with the Jabiru 3300
or Rotax 912.
You can request info at info(at)ppdgemini.com.
--------
Dale
Flying Cessna 170B
Building Zenith 601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165270#165270
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gemini_100_spec_sheet_12_07_910.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aprazer" <aprazer(at)cableone.net> |
Ladies and Gents;
I have decided to glue the broken triangular piece back onto the canopy instead
of purchasing a new canopy for $550 and then go through all the trouble of trimming,
drilling, etc...
To cover the damaged area, I have decided to revert back to the old way of doing
things by installing a metal flashing on the front of the canopy.
This is where I need the help from someone!
Does anyone have the dimensions for this front flashing? My plans are too new and
don't show this flashing.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Mack
N990MK
CH601XL/Jabiru3300
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165275#165275
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | I m spreading the news. |
Our fellow builder and contributior to this site, Larry McFarland has a
machine shop and offers his services to this group.
I saw that he had a nose wheel tow bar and strut collar for sale and I
bought one from him. It arrived today.....
What an " absolutely beautiful" piece of craftsmanship.
The design is perfect and this product is amazing.
Like most builders I thought I might build my own tow bar system, but
now know that there's no way I could come close to the quality of
Larry's work. I hope Larry continues to make these items and I
recommend that everyone ask him about his products.
Thanks Larry
Steve Weston
N9554Z
601XL
almost, almost almost done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
My oldest set of plans lists .025, 210 X 1600, 6-C-3, 05/01. Same on the
01/03 version.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aprazer
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 3:29 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL Canopy
Ladies and Gents;
I have decided to glue the broken triangular piece back onto the canopy
instead of purchasing a new canopy for $550 and then go through all the
trouble of trimming, drilling, etc...
To cover the damaged area, I have decided to revert back to the old way of
doing things by installing a metal flashing on the front of the canopy.
This is where I need the help from someone!
Does anyone have the dimensions for this front flashing? My plans are too
new and don't show this flashing.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Mack
N990MK
CH601XL/Jabiru3300
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165275#165275
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
Nearly out of airframe parts!
Need some help on this.
Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit
the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from
flying people.
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I m spreading the news. |
| From: | "cookwithgas" <cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Steve:
It is no surprise to me. I've been admiring Larry's work for years. His sheet
brake plans were superb and allowed me to build a sheet brake that helped me
plans-build my airplane.
I'm a big Larry Mc -fan also.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165317#165317
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I m spreading the news. |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
I'm a big Larry Mac fan also. Look at the bike I hope to bring to SnF. His plans
and seat form make it all possible. I did a little work myself but "Good
Design is Good Design".
Thanks Larry!
http://mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=rlendon&project=441
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165322#165322
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
don't forget that you need a calibration check at least once a year. Before the
flames start to bloom, a simple fixture with a crank arm in a bearing and a tared
bucket with water in it (pure water is 1 gram/cc; 453.6 grams/pound) is a
good functional check.
Brad,
Getting back to the original subject, page 7-301 of AC 43.13-1B shows proper torque
values. Yes, they are based on shank size, not wrench size. I have this
page posted on my workbench as I seem to refer to it almost every day.
As opposed to a torque wrench you'd find at Home Depot, I strongly recommend taking
the plunge and buying a quality torque wrench. I have one from US Tool -
model TP349 and it's great. If you're planning on installing a Rotax, You'll
definitely use the metric (Newton-meter) side for your engine work. I know it's
expensive, but IMHO it is a must-have. Here is their website:
http://www.ustool.com/
That's my two cents.
Dan Ginty
N787DG
90% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165215#165215
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tp349_torque_wrench_199.jpg
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Upholstery sources |
I am at that point on my XL where I have to start thinking about interior
upholstery. I would be interested in getting recommendations (or avoidance
warnings) on who has the best interiors. I am partial to leather (or
similar) at this point.
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Vetterli <richvetterli(at)yahoo.com> |
I bought my seats and side panels from Flightctafters
and they are a thing of beauty. Look at the
upholstery page on the Zenith web-site and you'll find
a link.
Rich Vetterli
Pleasanton, CA
CH601XL under construction
Check out my progress at: www.geocities.com/stixx5a
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone used Cleveland wheels and brakes on the 601XL. I have a chance
to buy a set of almost new 5.00X5 Cleveland wheels, brakes and axle's for
$250. They have brand new tires and tubes on them and did 4 take off and
landings on turf before he went up one size. They are off of a Cessna 150. The
AP
at the airport says that they are in excellent shape. I do not know what
kind of weight penalty I would incur if any? If you have used this setup, let
me know. The AP seems to think that they would be superior to the grove
wheels for performance. Still looking for spring gear if anyone has some.......
Larry Husky
N667H (Reserved)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I m spreading the news. |
| From: | "rroberts" <n701rr(at)yahoo.com> |
I too am a huge Larry fan. I have his radiator set up on my 701 and it worked
from the very minute I put it on. I would still be chasing my tail. His tow
bar and collar was a welcome addition to the Purple Dragon as well!
Many -o- thanks Larry ! !
--------
Low & Slow
Rick
www.n701rr.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165373#165373
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/air_intake_installation_142.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ZodieRocket" <zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca> |
XL owners, I need a favor. Can you hop in your plane and measure the
distance from the top of the arm rest 6-B-18-2 where it meets the center
back seat channel 6-B-16-2 and measure the distance between that spot
and the top of the rear Canopy frame 6-C-3-1 where the plastic is joined
to the alum tube. Please measure to the forward side of the tube while
the canopy is in the closed position. I realize the tape measure will
have to bend to reach. Also can you check the height of the arm rest to
the highest portion of your canopy. Each of us have fitted this
differently but I am curious as to the variance and If there is a base
measure to help others in the future. I would use mine for this but I
have installed an older 601HD canopy and it is a different shape then
the 601XL's.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
2/18/2008 6:49 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zill Coleman" <zill(at)pinnacletrans.com> |
Does anyone have a right wing for 601 HDS? With fuel tank?
501.351.5959
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601XL wheels |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
I haven't used Clevelands on my XL but had them on my 172 and later 182. I also
retrofitted a set to my Aeronca Champ where they worked great. Cleveland makes
a great product and unlike the Grove are FAA approved for production aircraft.
Don't get me wrong, the Grove wheels are very well made... the main difference
is that the company hasn't jumped through the hoops required by the FAA
so they are currently approved only for experimental aircraft.
If they will fit on the gear you plan to use I would say it sounds like a good
deal, especially if axles are included. You can use master cylinders from cleveland,
grove, matco or whoever you want.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165428#165428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HDS wing wanted |
Zill,
Try Mr Booths's email at gboothe(at)calply.com as he wants to change
aircraft and build a Pietenpol.
good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Anyhow, I would like to sell the completed rudder, tail kit, wings and
uncompleted center section. The rudder, tail and wings were all
purchased kits, but the center section is a scratch build. The wings are
for an HDS, with lockers and locker tanks.
I dont think I will get all my money out of it, so I will be happy to
discuss pricing with any interested parties all, or part.
Gary Boothe
Zill Coleman wrote:
> Does anyone have a right wing for 601 HDS? With fuel tank?
> 501.351.5959
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upholstery sources |
call FLight Crafters in Zephyrhills. The set up in plane they made for me and
did a great JOb. The PLeather they put in is wearing well and durable and the
seats are well built. The contact is Russ Lepre 813-690-1916.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Paul Riedlinger <cndmovn(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Feb 20, 2008 10:12 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Upholstery sources
>
>I am at that point on my XL where I have to start thinking about interior
>upholstery. I would be interested in getting recommendations (or avoidance
>warnings) on who has the best interiors. I am partial to leather (or
>similar) at this point.
>
>
>--
>Paul Riedlinger
>cndmovn(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I m spreading the news. |
I'am In too... Larry, is Great .... good info and parts, and tool's. Intake
scoop for the radi, also the lo presure louvers, tow bar, for my RAM 130
keeps her cool. Joe N101HD/ 601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "rroberts" <n701rr(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 5:27 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: I m spreading the news.
>
> I too am a huge Larry fan. I have his radiator set up on my 701 and it
> worked from the very minute I put it on. I would still be chasing my
> tail. His tow bar and collar was a welcome addition to the Purple Dragon
> as well!
>
> Many -o- thanks Larry ! !
>
> --------
> Low & Slow
> Rick
> www.n701rr.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165373#165373
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/air_intake_installation_142.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Zill,
I am selling my HDS project. I have two wings (with lockers), tail,
rudder
and =BD complete center section. You can contact me at:
gboothe5(at)comcast.net.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Zill
Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: HDS wing wanted
Does anyone have a right wing for 601 HDS? With fuel tank?
501.351.5959
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upholstery sources |
| From: | "AZFlyer" <millrML(at)aol.com> |
How about some pictures and prices...
Thanks,
Mike
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml(at)aol.com
601 XL, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165584#165584
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LRI Probe Question |
| From: | "pavel569" <pm569(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Does anyone of you using a holes in the wing as a ports for AOA? IMHO it is the
most accurate method. Any disadvantages, bugs - other than possibilities of insects
or ice pluging the hole? They are really small - .060" so there shouldn't
be too much problems with flies etc. And I don't really like the look of the
probe protruding the wing.
--------
Pavel
CA
Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165594#165594
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Stratus Re-drive Belt alternate source |
Hi guys,
Bill Morelli recently asked for a source for the Stratus Redrive Belt as
performance
alternative to Stratus in Washington. I just ordered a belt as a spare from
Motion Industries 1920-5th Ave, Moline, IL 61265 Phone 309-797-1111
The price was near $65.00 which is reasonable for a Jason HTB Belt.
Jason number printed on the belt is 880-8M-60MM.
If you don't have a spare, perhaps it's time. Store it on edge in a zip
lock or
plastic bag. Keep it out of the sun and cold temps. Should be good for
years.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell Haas" <darrellhaas(at)gmail.com> |
What are people using for the rear light on the rudder? I don't have
one yet and wonder if I should rivet the rudder before buying and
installing the light or go ahead and finish the rudder and add the
light later. What about the wires. Best bang for the buck? Zenith vs
??
Darrell
601 XL
reserved N723DD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
If you want to save power Kuntzleman has a new LED taillight:
http://www.kestrobes.com/heads.htm#NEW_ITEM!
Also the fiberglass taillight fairing from Zenith is not a great fit for
some taillights. Others have bent up their own from Al sheet.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Haas
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 1:07 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: rudder light
What are people using for the rear light on the rudder? I don't have
one yet and wonder if I should rivet the rudder before buying and
installing the light or go ahead and finish the rudder and add the
light later. What about the wires. Best bang for the buck? Zenith vs
??
Darrell
601 XL
reserved N723DD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bolding" <jnbolding1(at)teleshare.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder light |
Steve Wittman mounted a bulb holder so that the only thing that protruded
from the rudders edge was the bulb top itself, no lens cover at all, Light
,cheap , practical, and it works, typical Wittman. John Bolding
>
> What are people using for the rear light on the rudder? I don't have
> one yet and wonder if I should rivet the rudder before buying and
> installing the light or go ahead and finish the rudder and add the
> light later. What about the wires. Best bang for the buck? Zenith vs
> ??
> Darrell
> 601 XL
> reserved N723DD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I had my rudder riveted up when I installed mine, used stock install at time which
was aeroflash.
Go to bottom of page to see cutout done with air powered fiberglass disc cutter.
http://www.701builder.com/rudder3.htm
I used the fiberglass fairing and it seems very solid when installed.
Brian Unruh
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
Bill,
Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder
from the saddle piece?
I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting the
elevator bellcrank
clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on the
rudder. Then fill the
bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> All-
> Nearly out of airframe parts!
> Need some help on this.
> Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit
> the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from
> flying people.
> Thanks.
> Bill Naumuk
> Townville, Pa.
> HDS Fuse/Corvair
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell Haas" <darrellhaas(at)gmail.com> |
How tight should the skins be on the rudder? Like a drum head? Should you be
able to push them in and out slightly? Oil can? What is acceptable?
Darrell
601XL
N723DD reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upholstery sources |
| From: | "swater6" <waters.scott(at)comcast.net> |
I bought the ready made upholstery from Flightcrafters. I haven't installed it
yet but have see it in other XL's. It looks and feels great and I was impressed
with the quality sewing especially on the piece that covers the armrest and
forms the boot for the control stick. They also included some extra fabric
which I will use to cover between the seats up top.
This link is to the info on Zenith's site.
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/xl-upholstery.html
This link is the Flightcrafters link with price.
http://www.zenithdistributing.com/
It's not cheap but my sewing skills are non-existent and this will give me "that
new plane smell".....
Scott
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and both wings complete. Now working on fuselage
www.scottwaters.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165701#165701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
Larry-
Having troubles- hell, I'm flying blind! I have absolutely no print or
manual information about installing the saddle whatsoever. I don't even know
if I can install the saddle now, before the rear top fuse skins are on. I
wanted to get the empennage rough-rigged and my belly strobe wired before
closing in the rear of the fuse, if possible.
1. How does the saddle attach to the stab? You had one picture in the
archives that had two (Bolts/rivets) located at the aft end of the saddle. I
would assume, then, that you used some standard angle for a mount. Did you
continue the angle and hole pattern the entire length of the attachment area
or just in the area shown in the picture?
2. Once the bottom edge is contoured to the stab, I'm assuming you
follow the angle of the top of the saddle to meet the spar, plus 5mm
clearance for the rudder nose skin cut.
3. Do you leave the flat top of the saddle closed, or are you supposed
to cut it out?
You know from my experience with the outboard fairings that I hate
fiberglass, and it hates me. I'll be damned if I go through 3 saddles before
I get it right this time.
I intend to line the saddle on the CL with the top vertex even with the
front of the nose skin. Then, I'll use a spacer to trace the contour of the
stab and cut the bottom of the saddle. This will allow me to lay out the
rudder nose skin cut.
After cutting the nose skin, I'll trace the perimeter outline of the
saddle to the stab, adjust for the thickness of the fiberglass, and install
standard angle to the top of the stab for as long as practical.
Sound like a plan? Let me know if I should wait until the top rear fuse
skins are on. (I don't think they're a factor).
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>
> Bill,
> Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder from
> the saddle piece?
> I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting the
> elevator bellcrank
> clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
> Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on the
> rudder. Then fill the
> bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>> All-
>> Nearly out of airframe parts!
>> Need some help on this.
>> Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit the
>> stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from flying
>> people.
>> Thanks.
>> Bill Naumuk
>> Townville, Pa.
>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>> *
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
Here's a picture.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
> Larry-
> Having troubles- hell, I'm flying blind! I have absolutely no print or
> manual information about installing the saddle whatsoever. I don't even
> know if I can install the saddle now, before the rear top fuse skins are
> on. I wanted to get the empennage rough-rigged and my belly strobe wired
> before closing in the rear of the fuse, if possible.
> 1. How does the saddle attach to the stab? You had one picture in the
> archives that had two (Bolts/rivets) located at the aft end of the saddle.
> I would assume, then, that you used some standard angle for a mount. Did
> you continue the angle and hole pattern the entire length of the
> attachment area or just in the area shown in the picture?
> 2. Once the bottom edge is contoured to the stab, I'm assuming you
> follow the angle of the top of the saddle to meet the spar, plus 5mm
> clearance for the rudder nose skin cut.
> 3. Do you leave the flat top of the saddle closed, or are you supposed
> to cut it out?
> You know from my experience with the outboard fairings that I hate
> fiberglass, and it hates me. I'll be damned if I go through 3 saddles
> before I get it right this time.
> I intend to line the saddle on the CL with the top vertex even with the
> front of the nose skin. Then, I'll use a spacer to trace the contour of
> the stab and cut the bottom of the saddle. This will allow me to lay out
> the rudder nose skin cut.
> After cutting the nose skin, I'll trace the perimeter outline of the
> saddle to the stab, adjust for the thickness of the fiberglass, and
> install standard angle to the top of the stab for as long as practical.
> Sound like a plan? Let me know if I should wait until the top rear fuse
> skins are on. (I don't think they're a factor).
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder from
>> the saddle piece?
>> I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting the
>> elevator bellcrank
>> clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
>> Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on the
>> rudder. Then fill the
>> bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
>>
>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>> All-
>>> Nearly out of airframe parts!
>>> Need some help on this.
>>> Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to fit
>>> the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome, especially from
>>> flying people.
>>> Thanks.
>>> Bill Naumuk
>>> Townville, Pa.
>>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>>> *
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
You're right Bill,
but you do need to put the rear top skins on before you get into fitting
the saddle. Then you have the dimensions
needed and the estimate of fit to make it work. Don't know anyone
that's succeeded in putting it on before the
rear top skin. Even trimming the rear top skin for the stab is a pain,
but that needs doing too.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudderfairing.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/fitfairing.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/ruddernose.gif
The rudder, elevator bellcrank and rear top skin fitted for the nose of
the stabilizer, then the saddle.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/runuprear.gif
The saddle is a bitch to get in until you learn to spread the sides of
it as you draw it back under the rudder far
enough to get the front edge under the rear top skin. You have to not
trim too much from your rear top skin to
allow fasteners and rudder gap and bellcrank their proper clearances. It
gets close with this piece.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/bhorn.gif
The two screws you see on each side screw into tinnermans on a short
standard angle. The front of the saddle
is fitted with 3 tinnermans and I have screws going thru the rear top
skin and into the tinnermans. That was my
solution to the forward and rear side attach points.
Hope this helps a bit,
Larry McFarland
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> Here's a picture.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 10:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>
>
>> Larry-
>> Having troubles- hell, I'm flying blind! I have absolutely no
>> print or manual information about installing the saddle whatsoever. I
>> don't even know if I can install the saddle now, before the rear top
>> fuse skins are on. I wanted to get the empennage rough-rigged and my
>> belly strobe wired before closing in the rear of the fuse, if possible.
>> 1. How does the saddle attach to the stab? You had one picture in
>> the archives that had two (Bolts/rivets) located at the aft end of
>> the saddle. I would assume, then, that you used some standard angle
>> for a mount. Did you continue the angle and hole pattern the entire
>> length of the attachment area or just in the area shown in the picture?
>> 2. Once the bottom edge is contoured to the stab, I'm assuming you
>> follow the angle of the top of the saddle to meet the spar, plus 5mm
>> clearance for the rudder nose skin cut.
>> 3. Do you leave the flat top of the saddle closed, or are you
>> supposed to cut it out?
>> You know from my experience with the outboard fairings that I hate
>> fiberglass, and it hates me. I'll be damned if I go through 3 saddles
>> before I get it right this time.
>> I intend to line the saddle on the CL with the top vertex even
>> with the front of the nose skin. Then, I'll use a spacer to trace the
>> contour of the stab and cut the bottom of the saddle. This will allow
>> me to lay out the rudder nose skin cut.
>> After cutting the nose skin, I'll trace the perimeter outline of
>> the saddle to the stab, adjust for the thickness of the fiberglass,
>> and install standard angle to the top of the stab for as long as
>> practical.
>> Sound like a plan? Let me know if I should wait until the top rear
>> fuse skins are on. (I don't think they're a factor).
>> Bill
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LarryMcFarland"
>>
>> To:
>> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:59 PM
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>> Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder
>>> from the saddle piece?
>>> I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting
>>> the elevator bellcrank
>>> clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
>>> Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on
>>> the rudder. Then fill the
>>> bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
>>>
>>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>>
>>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>>> All-
>>>> Nearly out of airframe parts!
>>>> Need some help on this.
>>>> Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to
>>>> fit the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome,
>>>> especially from flying people.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>> Bill Naumuk
>>>> Townville, Pa.
>>>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>>>> *
>>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "THOMAS SMALL" <tjs22t(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
>The saddle is a bitch to get in until you learn to spread the sides of it
>as you draw it back under the rudder far
>enough to get the front edge under the rear top skin.
...or try this which also allows the stab to be removed without marring
paint/finish.
http://www.ch601.org/resources/zodiac%20updates/mod_to_remove_stabilizer_at_a_la.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Michael Honer" <amhoner(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
I have lost the sight of my left eye, and will sell my carefully built
601XL for about one half of what I have in it.
Includes Jab 3300 mounted in fitted cowling, firewall forward, dual
sticks, hinged ailerons, aileron trim. Fuselage ,wings and tail are
complete and have been test mounted and cables rigged. wings are back
off.
fuselage is complete less about half the work to finish the
canopy...Ready to install the systems, decide what instruments and
radios to buy and to put in it and do that job.
Airplane is in N.C., and can be had for $17,500. Off- line inquiries
please...Lots of pictures
EAA guy says "excellent"
amhoner(at)rtmc.net...336-857-1151
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bottom Rudder Bracket attachment |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
OK so assuming that the prints are incorrect on the number of A5 rivets it says
6, someone has confirmed with Zenith that the correct # is 4, is the number of
bolts still 4 as indicated in the drawings? Two are shown in the manual....
Yes, I understand the drawings take priority over the manual and not to count
the x's for rivets. Anybody mind taking a look at their QB kit? How is Zenith
installing them these days?
Thanks,
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165783#165783
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bottom Rudder Bracket attachment |
Take a look at these shots of my QBK.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MHerder
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 11:59 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Bottom Rudder Bracket attachment
OK so assuming that the prints are incorrect on the number of A5 rivets it
says 6, someone has confirmed with Zenith that the correct # is 4, is the
number of bolts still 4 as indicated in the drawings? Two are shown in the
manual.... Yes, I understand the drawings take priority over the manual and
not to count the x's for rivets. Anybody mind taking a look at their QB
kit? How is Zenith installing them these days?
Thanks,
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165783#165783
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upholstery sources |
| From: | "archerm" <archermj(at)swbell.net> |
I ended up building my own and then taking it to a local auto upholstery shop.
I am real happy with the resluts. Check it out on my site
http://www.zodiacxl.com/Seats.htm
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
--------
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165804#165804
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1786_107.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
On lister advice, decided to wait until rear top skins were in place
before fitting the saddle. Rough rigged elevator; will have to pore over
ACS catalog to get electrical fittings to connect tail light, elevator
trim, and belly strobe. Will also have to install a fitting attached to
the lower fuse to support cables. Then I can install the rear fuse top
skins.
Note: HF cable cutting pliers are a POS. The ACS $15.00 Nico Press
squeezer is barely adequate for the assembly of 1 project. I have 2
fittings to go and the squeezer is about shot.
90% done, 95% to go!
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
All,
I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really are
three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs, and the
upholstery.
My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
(reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site appears to
be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use fiberglass.
For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common soft foam
to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns for the
601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of Hi-Tech,
but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured shapes. Does
anyone have either installed?
I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover done
should be the easiest part.
I have a couple questions:
How far above the baggage shelf should the headrest portion of the seatback
extend to protect our heads? Most of the pictures I see just have a large
arc or simple straight edge as the top of the seat back. Is there a reason
that there is no head rest? Should the seats be more like the bucket seats
in a car with integral head rests? Is it just personal preference? I just
measured my plane and came up with 300 mm above the shelf for the top of the
headrest assuming a 3 inch foam seat over the seat pan. How do the
Flightcrafters or Zenith seats compare?
Thanks ....
Jeff D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saddle, pt II |
For the five conductor trim cable, go to Radio Shack and buy the panel
mount plug for a CB mic. It has five pins and has a locking ring to keep
it securely plugged.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 2:59 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Saddle, pt II
All-
On lister advice, decided to wait until rear top skins were in
place before fitting the saddle. Rough rigged elevator; will have to
pore over ACS catalog to get electrical fittings to connect tail light,
elevator trim, and belly strobe. Will also have to install a fitting
attached to the lower fuse to support cables. Then I can install the
rear fuse top skins.
Note: HF cable cutting pliers are a POS. The ACS $15.00 Nico Press
squeezer is barely adequate for the assembly of 1 project. I have 2
fittings to go and the squeezer is about shot.
90% done, 95% to go!
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/22/2008 6:39 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Hi Jeff,
The seats are easily done with plywood backs or fiberglass. Automotive
foams are cheaper and perhaps
easier to get hold of at many sewing and fabric outlets. Density is
something you want to pay attention to.
Confor foam is expensive beyond practical concerns, but for flammability
perhaps. I've a page on
seat construction that may explain the process. See link below.
Seat backs need only go an inch or more above the shelf or to shoulder
support height. Easier to get
belts over your shoulders if you don't go too high. Head rests are for
the flying public and passengers
but I wouldn't recommend them because of a need for access to the rear
shelf during flight.
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jeff wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really are
> three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs, and the
> upholstery.
>
> My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site appears to
> be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use fiberglass.
>
> For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common soft foam
> to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns for the
> 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of Hi-Tech,
> but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured shapes. Does
> anyone have either installed?
>
> I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover done
> should be the easiest part.
>
> I have a couple questions:
>
> How far above the baggage shelf should the headrest portion of the seatback
> extend to protect our heads? Most of the pictures I see just have a large
> arc or simple straight edge as the top of the seat back. Is there a reason
> that there is no head rest? Should the seats be more like the bucket seats
> in a car with integral head rests? Is it just personal preference? I just
> measured my plane and came up with 300 mm above the shelf for the top of the
> headrest assuming a 3 inch foam seat over the seat pan. How do the
> Flightcrafters or Zenith seats compare?
>
> Thanks ....
>
> Jeff D.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder cut-out |
When the plane is completely done, is when I bothered with the saddle. the very
last thing right before first flight. measure 20 then cut once, then measure
20 , cut once, etc... fits nice and snug now.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
>Sent: Feb 23, 2008 12:43 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>
>
>You're right Bill,
>but you do need to put the rear top skins on before you get into fitting
>the saddle. Then you have the dimensions
>needed and the estimate of fit to make it work. Don't know anyone
>that's succeeded in putting it on before the
>rear top skin. Even trimming the rear top skin for the stab is a pain,
>but that needs doing too.
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudderfairing.gif
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/fitfairing.gif
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/ruddernose.gif
>The rudder, elevator bellcrank and rear top skin fitted for the nose of
>the stabilizer, then the saddle.
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/runuprear.gif
>The saddle is a bitch to get in until you learn to spread the sides of
>it as you draw it back under the rudder far
>enough to get the front edge under the rear top skin. You have to not
>trim too much from your rear top skin to
>allow fasteners and rudder gap and bellcrank their proper clearances. It
>gets close with this piece.
>http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/bhorn.gif
>The two screws you see on each side screw into tinnermans on a short
>standard angle. The front of the saddle
>is fitted with 3 tinnermans and I have screws going thru the rear top
>skin and into the tinnermans. That was my
>solution to the forward and rear side attach points.
>
>Hope this helps a bit,
>
>Larry McFarland
>
>
>Bill Naumuk wrote:
>> Here's a picture.
>> Bill
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 10:18 AM
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>>
>>
>>> Larry-
>>> Having troubles- hell, I'm flying blind! I have absolutely no
>>> print or manual information about installing the saddle whatsoever. I
>>> don't even know if I can install the saddle now, before the rear top
>>> fuse skins are on. I wanted to get the empennage rough-rigged and my
>>> belly strobe wired before closing in the rear of the fuse, if possible.
>>> 1. How does the saddle attach to the stab? You had one picture in
>>> the archives that had two (Bolts/rivets) located at the aft end of
>>> the saddle. I would assume, then, that you used some standard angle
>>> for a mount. Did you continue the angle and hole pattern the entire
>>> length of the attachment area or just in the area shown in the picture?
>>> 2. Once the bottom edge is contoured to the stab, I'm assuming you
>>> follow the angle of the top of the saddle to meet the spar, plus 5mm
>>> clearance for the rudder nose skin cut.
>>> 3. Do you leave the flat top of the saddle closed, or are you
>>> supposed to cut it out?
>>> You know from my experience with the outboard fairings that I hate
>>> fiberglass, and it hates me. I'll be damned if I go through 3 saddles
>>> before I get it right this time.
>>> I intend to line the saddle on the CL with the top vertex even
>>> with the front of the nose skin. Then, I'll use a spacer to trace the
>>> contour of the stab and cut the bottom of the saddle. This will allow
>>> me to lay out the rudder nose skin cut.
>>> After cutting the nose skin, I'll trace the perimeter outline of
>>> the saddle to the stab, adjust for the thickness of the fiberglass,
>>> and install standard angle to the top of the stab for as long as
>>> practical.
>>> Sound like a plan? Let me know if I should wait until the top rear
>>> fuse skins are on. (I don't think they're a factor).
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LarryMcFarland"
>>>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:59 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder cut-out
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bill,
>>>> Are you having difficulty cutting the line that separates the rudder
>>>> from the saddle piece?
>>>> I've got a 5mm clearance between the saddle and the rudder. Getting
>>>> the elevator bellcrank
>>>> clearance and then the gap at the rudder is tricky.
>>>> Place the saddle with crank clearance first. Then work up trim on
>>>> the rudder. Then fill the
>>>> bottom of the rudder with a bulkhead flanges up.
>>>>
>>>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>>>
>>>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>>>> All-
>>>>> Nearly out of airframe parts!
>>>>> Need some help on this.
>>>>> Anyone have a surefire way of cutting the rudder nose skin to
>>>>> fit the stab and rudder fairing? All suggestions welcome,
>>>>> especially from flying people.
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>> Bill Naumuk
>>>>> Townville, Pa.
>>>>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>>>>> *
>>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Where's the Love? |
| From: | "cookwithgas" <cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Here's the Love:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQCF6Ab7ITU
Motivation for the week.
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Omaha, Nebraska
35 hours and counting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165839#165839
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Friend,
I'm sorry that you feel you must sell your XL. Such decisions are never easy.
I would like to point out that in my flying career I have worked with two pilots
who had sight in only one eye and each went on to earn their private licenses.
One owned and flew a Piper Arrow for many years. Also, let us not forget
the great Wiley Post.
Good luck!
Tim Juhl
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165842#165842
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stanley Challgren <challgren(at)mac.com> |
To the friend that lost an eye:
As Tim Juhl pointed out, there are one-eyed pilots. We had one at the
airline I flew for. He was grounded for about a year before getting
his medical back and then another year before he was back in the left
seat.
It's possible--Good Luck.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Betty Lou" <sutliff(at)suddenlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Michael Honer
To: Zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 1:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote
I have lost the sight of my left eye, and will sell my carefully built
601XL for about one half of what I have in it.
Includes Jab 3300 mounted in fitted cowling, firewall forward, dual
sticks, hinged ailerons, aileron trim. Fuselage ,wings and tail are
complete and have been test mounted and cables rigged. wings are back
off.
fuselage is complete less about half the work to finish the
canopy...Ready to install the systems, decide what instruments and
radios to buy and to put in it and do that job.
Airplane is in N.C., and can be had for $17,500. Off- line inquiries
please...Lots of pictures
EAA guy says "excellent"
amhoner(at)rtmc.net...336-857-1151
where is aircraft located.what kind of gear.single stick or dual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One-eyed Pilots |
Heck, I dont have brains and I fly..
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stanley Challgren" <challgren(at)mac.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 5:31 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: One-eyed Pilots
>
> To the friend that lost an eye:
>
> As Tim Juhl pointed out, there are one-eyed pilots. We had one at the
> airline I flew for. He was grounded for about a year before getting
> his medical back and then another year before he was back in the left
> seat.
>
> It's possible--Good Luck.
>
> Stan
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
What you pay attention to matters much more than how many eyes you see
things with. Disappointment is inevitable. Surrender, however, is still
optional. Give it a while. It seems a shame to walk away from an
excellent aircraft.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Michael Honer
To: Zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 1:40 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote
I have lost the sight of my left eye, and will sell my carefully
built 601XL for about one half of what I have in it.
Includes Jab 3300 mounted in fitted cowling, firewall forward, dual
sticks, hinged ailerons, aileron trim. Fuselage ,wings and tail are
complete and have been test mounted and cables rigged. wings are back
off.
fuselage is complete less about half the work to finish the
canopy...Ready to install the systems, decide what instruments and
radios to buy and to put in it and do that job.
Airplane is in N.C., and can be had for $17,500. Off- line inquiries
please...Lots of pictures
EAA guy says "excellent"
amhoner(at)rtmc.net...336-857-1151
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
| From: | "skyridersbn" <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
Please, please, PLEASE......do yourself a really BIG FAVOR (and the rest of us
that are feeling your pain and sorrow). Do NOT SELL YOUR LOVE OF FLIGHT!! Hold
on to your airplane for several years until you get a more definitive idea
of what your limitations are. As others have said to you before, they know of,
or are personal friends of people that HAVE FLOWN and DO FLY with only one eye!!
Sure, things are going to be hard to adjust to at first, but in time, your
body DOES learn to adapt - and it adapts quite well for the most part. Give
yourself some space and time. Do those things you need to to complete your
"baby".....I would hate to see you give up this dream while you're in this state
of mind. Learn to drive your car first and then see how it goes. Remember
too, you do NOT NEED a General Aviation License to fly this! You can claim you
will fly this under the new Light Sport Class, which you only need a valid
driver's license!! DO NOT go for another flight medical.....you do not want to
be denied for any reason. You do NOT need a medical to fly under the Light
Sport!!! Please check out what I am telling you. The Zodiac CH601XL IS A "PERFECT"
Light Sport aircraft!
I hope I've given you something to really think about and a sense of hope for your
future in flying.....don't EVER give up your dreams!
Blue Skies Always,
Larry H
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165863#165863
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Personal experience: During my fuselage build, I suffered a detached retina.
Beyond surgery, part of the correction was inserting a gas bubble in the eyeball
to keep the retina pressed against the lining of the eyeball. The gas was
slowly absorbed and it was gone in about six weeks. But while it was there, I
couldn't see through that bubble; so I had single eye vision for a while. Sure,
it really eliminated "normal" depth perception, but I kept building. I keenly
recall drilling the flap actuator bracket to its support, upside down, using
a mirror and one good eye. It CAN be done. Please give yourself some time to
adjust before deciding to chuck it. Please.
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
"skyridersbn" wrote:
>
>Please, please, PLEASE......do yourself a really BIG FAVOR (and the rest of us
that are feeling your pain and sorrow). Do NOT SELL YOUR LOVE OF FLIGHT!! Hold
on to your airplane for several years until you get a more definitive idea
of what your limitations are. As others have said to you before, they know of,
or are personal friends of people that HAVE FLOWN and DO FLY with only one
eye!! Sure, things are going to be hard to adjust to at first, but in time, your
body DOES learn to adapt - and it adapts quite well for the most part. Give
yourself some space and time. Do those things you need to to complete your
"baby".....I would hate to see you give up this dream while you're in this state
of mind. Learn to drive your car first and then see how it goes. Remember
too, you do NOT NEED a General Aviation License to fly this! You can claim
you will fly this under the new Light Sport Class, which you only need a valid
driver's license!! DO NOT go for another flight med!
> ical.....you do not want to be denied for any reason. You do NOT need a medical
to fly under the Light Sport!!! Please check out what I am telling you.
The Zodiac CH601XL IS A "PERFECT" Light Sport aircraft!
>
>I hope I've given you something to really think about and a sense of hope for
your future in flying.....don't EVER give up your dreams!
>
>Blue Skies Always,
>Larry H
>
>--------
>Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165863#165863
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One-eyed Pilots |
which airline was that so that I avoid it.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Stanley Challgren <challgren(at)mac.com>
>Sent: Feb 23, 2008 7:31 PM
>To: Zenith List
>Subject: Zenith-List: One-eyed Pilots
>
>
>To the friend that lost an eye:
>
>As Tim Juhl pointed out, there are one-eyed pilots. We had one at the
>airline I flew for. He was grounded for about a year before getting
>his medical back and then another year before he was back in the left
>seat.
>
>It's possible--Good Luck.
>
>Stan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
If you haven't lost you medical yet then you can fly as a sport pilot - no
questions asked. The only medical requirement for sport pilot is that you
hold a valid driver's license.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Michael
Honer
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote
I have lost the sight of my left eye, and will sell my carefully built 601XL
for about one half of what I have in it.
Includes Jab 3300 mounted in fitted cowling, firewall forward, dual sticks,
hinged ailerons, aileron trim. Fuselage ,wings and tail are complete and
have been test mounted and cables rigged. wings are back off.
fuselage is complete less about half the work to finish the canopy...Ready
to install the systems, decide what instruments and radios to buy and to put
in it and do that job.
Airplane is in N.C., and can be had for $17,500. Off- line inquiries
please...Lots of pictures
EAA guy says "excellent"
amhoner(at)rtmc.net...336-857-1151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One-eyed Pilots |
> My flight instructor only had one eye, but he could
> teach a blind man to fly. Don't give up...
--- steve wrote:
>
>
> Heck, I dont have brains and I fly..
>
> SW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stanley Challgren" <challgren(at)mac.com>
> To: "Zenith List"
> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 5:31 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: One-eyed Pilots
>
>
> Challgren
> >
> > To the friend that lost an eye:
> >
> > As Tim Juhl pointed out, there are one-eyed
> pilots. We had one at the
> > airline I flew for. He was grounded for about a
> year before getting
> > his medical back and then another year before he
> was back in the left
> > seat.
> >
> > It's possible--Good Luck.
> >
> > Stan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
It's going to change with the temperature. The best you can do is warm up everything
and assemble and rivet. When it cools it will be as tight as it is going
to be. Some folks place everything in the sun to warm it up, me, living in
the great gray north, use a furnace to heat up the entire garage.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165877#165877
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where's the Love? |
> Perhaps the one eyed pilot should get some incentive
> not to give up flying after he sees this video..
--- cookwithgas wrote:
>
>
> Here's the Love:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQCF6Ab7ITU
>
> Motivation for the week.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> www.cooknwithgas.com
> Omaha, Nebraska
> 35 hours and counting
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165839#165839
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)primus.ca> |
I adjusted the rear hor. stab. mounts. No need to do anything to the
saddle.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
This is a poem my father taught me that has helped many times in my life.
It Couldn't Be Done
Edgar Guest
Somebody said that it couldn't be done,
But he with a chuckle replied
That "maybe it couldn't," but he would be one
Who wouldn't say so till he'd tried.
So he buckled right in with the trace of a grin
On his face. If he worried he hid it.
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
Somebody scoffed: "Oh, you'll never do that;
At least no one ever has done it";
But he took off his coat and he took off his hat,
And the first thing we knew he'd begun it.
With a lift of his chin and a bit of a grin,
Without any doubting or quiddit,
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
There are thousands to tell you it cannot be done,
There are thousands to prophesy failure;
There are thousands to point out to you, one by one,
The dangers that wait to assail you.
But just buckle in with a bit of a grin,
Just take off your coat and go to it;
Just start to sing as you tackle the thing
That "cannot be done," and you'll do it.
Many good people here want to see you continue with your dream of flying. Give
it time.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165890#165890
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Vetterli <richvetterli(at)yahoo.com> |
I installed my saddle yesterday and here's what I did.
From the plans, I plotted and drew out the top half
of the HT rib on a piece of cardboard. I cut that out
and used it to transfer the curve to the bottom of the
saddle with a sharpie. Sanded to the line and had a
nearly perfect fit. A little fine tuning and it was
ready to drill and cleco.
Rich Vetterli
Pleasanton, CA
CH601XL under construction
Check out my progress at: www.geocities.com/stixx5a
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
Rich-
Hmm. More than one way to skin a cat. I was going to level the saddle
and duct tape it directly on the stab. Then run a Sharpie line using a
spacer to get an acceptable height.
If nothing else, we're getting a lot of ideas into the archives. When I
looked this morning, there wasn't much to speak of.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Vetterli" <richvetterli(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 12:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Saddle
>
>
> I installed my saddle yesterday and here's what I did.
> From the plans, I plotted and drew out the top half
> of the HT rib on a piece of cardboard. I cut that out
> and used it to transfer the curve to the bottom of the
> saddle with a sharpie. Sanded to the line and had a
> nearly perfect fit. A little fine tuning and it was
> ready to drill and cleco.
>
> Rich Vetterli
> Pleasanton, CA
> CH601XL under construction
> Check out my progress at: www.geocities.com/stixx5a
>
>
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jean-Paul Roy <royjp(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Many thanks Ron for posting this poem. Your father must have been a great man.
Jean-Paul
Ron Lendon a crit :
This is a poem my father taught me that has helped many times in my life.
It Couldn't Be Done
Edgar Guest
Somebody said that it couldn't be done,
But he with a chuckle replied
That "maybe it couldn't," but he would be one
Who wouldn't say so till he'd tried.
So he buckled right in with the trace of a grin
On his face. If he worried he hid it.
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
Somebody scoffed: "Oh, you'll never do that;
At least no one ever has done it";
But he took off his coat and he took off his hat,
And the first thing we knew he'd begun it.
With a lift of his chin and a bit of a grin,
Without any doubting or quiddit,
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
There are thousands to tell you it cannot be done,
There are thousands to prophesy failure;
There are thousands to point out to you, one by one,
The dangers that wait to assail you.
But just buckle in with a bit of a grin,
Just take off your coat and go to it;
Just start to sing as you tackle the thing
That "cannot be done," and you'll do it.
Many good people here want to see you continue with your dream of flying. Give
it time.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165890#165890
---------------------------------
Dcouvrez les styles qui font sensation sur Yahoo! Qubec Avatars
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
Don't do it! For all the reasons stated above and simply because, it takes a human
to pilot an airplane. You can still breath and you can still see, my guess
is that your humanity didn't leave you. So by my count, you can still be a pilot.
Hell, because of your loss, you'll most likely end of being a better, safer
pilot just because you pay more attention to whats going on then you would
have with both eyes! Don't sell yourself short, give it an honest chance.
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165915#165915
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE : Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
I'll second that comment!
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165917#165917
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One-eyed Pilots |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
[Embarassed]
amyvega2005(at)earthlink. wrote:
> which airline was that so that I avoid it.
>
> --
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165918#165918
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 |
| From: | "Darryl Legg" <dlegg(at)tpg.com.au> |
Hello there 601 builders,
I am finishing off my brake pedals and brackets for the master cylinders and don't
seem to have a great deal of forward travel before the master cyl stops against
the base mounting bracket. Could anyone tell me the actual rudder travel
when the cables are hooked up?
Thanks in advance
happy building
Darryl
Darwin, Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165925#165925
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 |
| From: | "GLJSOJ1" <gljno10(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
When I did mine I needed to file the mounting bracket for the cylinders off a bit
to give me enough travel on the pedals so that they did not hit the bracket.
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165934#165934
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Goodings" <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Michael:
Let me make you aware of the work of Professor Ian Howard, a clinical
psychologist at York University in Toronto. Ian showed, with detailed
experimentation, and even managed to convince Transport Canada, that a
person does not use two eyes for stereoscopic vision at a distance beyond
about 10 feet. That is, in landing an aircraft, you are NOT using
stereoscopic vision, so that one (good) eye is essentially as useful as
two. One gets depth perception from the brain trained to reference on
all the other surrounding objects beyond 10 feet.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Carp/Ottawa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
http://www.qsradio.com/Connectors.htm
Okay guys and gals, I found the mysterious 5-pin plug at the site linked
above. Scroll down about 80%... the various versions with different
numbers of pins are listed there.
These connectors are a nice neat professional looking way to make
connections at the tail, the wing roots, anywhere that might need to
come apart someday.
The four pin version is available at Radio Shack in my home town so I
guess it is available elsewhere as well.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
Dred-
Where did you install the panel mount? I'm guessing on the rear stab
mount. If you put it where the grommet is on the elevator, the male
connector would probably interfere with free travel.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
http://www.qsradio.com/Connectors.htm
Okay guys and gals, I found the mysterious 5-pin plug at the site
linked above. Scroll down about 80%... the various versions with
different numbers of pins are listed there.
These connectors are a nice neat professional looking way to make
connections at the tail, the wing roots, anywhere that might need to
come apart someday.
The four pin version is available at Radio Shack in my home town so I
guess it is available elsewhere as well.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Race" <mykitairplane(at)mrrace.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "THOMAS SMALL" <tjs22t(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | sub D connector for five wire Ray Allen servo |
This is another connector that works back on the top of stab and under
fairing. Thanks to Electrocuted Bob. Position light wire can also be
incorporated...jeff
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
My ophthalmologist (sp?) told me, and I've tried it and found it to be true,
that our binocular vision only gives us depth perception to about fifteen
feet. Beyond that it's the brain's ability to interpolate/extrapolate using
known shapes and apparent movement that gives us depth perception. So, as
Larry Hursh wrote a few posts ago, Give yourself some space and time. Our
bodies are "fearfully and wonderfully made", and adapt to many seemingly
insurmountable difficulties. Reread Larry's post, print it out, keep it and
read it when you feel like surrendering, and keep your dream!
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
George,
Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard of.
Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where to get it,
etc.?
Thanks,
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
"George Race" wrote:
>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>
>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>intermittent connections.
>
>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>connector.
>
>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>
>George
>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry H <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Larry, I have a question about the seats and maybe you can answer it for me. I
was wondering if there's such a thing as replacing the permanently mounted seats
with a moveable seat like that in a Cessna? I'm a pretty short legged pilot
and if I mount the seats too close to the pedals, any of my friends that are
much taller than I will have a dickens of a time with the seat being too close
for them. I've only started my XL but I've been wondering how others have
handled it. When AMD builds the Alarus (mother to the XL), how do they handle
the seating in those?? I'm sure there are a lot of them out here being used
for General Aviation. Any help you could offer here will put my mind at ease
some.
Regards
Larry H
LarryMcFarland wrote:
Hi Jeff,
The seats are easily done with plywood backs or fiberglass. Automotive
foams are cheaper and perhaps
easier to get hold of at many sewing and fabric outlets. Density is
something you want to pay attention to.
Confor foam is expensive beyond practical concerns, but for flammability
perhaps. I've a page on
seat construction that may explain the process. See link below.
Seat backs need only go an inch or more above the shelf or to shoulder
support height. Easier to get
belts over your shoulders if you don't go too high. Head rests are for
the flying public and passengers
but I wouldn't recommend them because of a need for access to the rear
shelf during flight.
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jeff wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really are
> three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs, and the
> upholstery.
>
> My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site appears to
> be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use fiberglass.
>
> For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common soft foam
> to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns for the
> 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of Hi-Tech,
> but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured shapes. Does
> anyone have either installed?
>
> I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover done
> should be the easiest part.
>
> I have a couple questions:
>
> How far above the baggage shelf should the headrest portion of the seatback
> extend to protect our heads? Most of the pictures I see just have a large
> arc or simple straight edge as the top of the seat back. Is there a reason
> that there is no head rest? Should the seats be more like the bucket seats
> in a car with integral head rests? Is it just personal preference? I just
> measured my plane and came up with 300 mm above the shelf for the top of the
> headrest assuming a 3 inch foam seat over the seat pan. How do the
> Flightcrafters or Zenith seats compare?
>
> Thanks ....
>
> Jeff D.
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "leinad" <leinad(at)hughes.net> |
I've managed to loose (if I ever had them) instructions on wiring a dual EGT/CHT
gauge. The gauge doesn't have the manufacturer, just a made in china lable
on it.
It's a 2 1/4" round gauge. It has 4 posts on the back labelled, 1, 3, 4, 5.
I've got thermocouples that I purchased at the same time.
Anyone got some suggestions?
Dan Dempsey
601XL
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165987#165987
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
George-
Jeff showed me his set-up, which is actually a 9 pin computer serial
connector! He's been flying since the late '90s.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: George Race
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar.
They do not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of
humidity in the air or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in
an outdoor atmosphere. The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get
very corroded causing intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of
current that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the
connector. I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any
problem. But to be sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating
BEFORE using this type of connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of
them becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal
them heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes
an airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) |
Jay,
I believe he is referring to adhesive lined shrink tubing. It is used in
marine wiring. Ancor Marine is one manufacturer. Hope this helps.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>
> George,
>
> Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard
> of. Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where
> to get it, etc.?
>
> Thanks,
> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
> "George Race" wrote:
>
>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
>>connectors.
>>
>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They
>>do
>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the
>>air
>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>intermittent connections.
>>
>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>connector.
>>
>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>
>>George
>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
gp to an electronics shop other than Radio Shack and ask for heat shrink with heat
activated glue cores.
Or go on line.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jaybannist(at)cs.com
>Sent: Feb 24, 2008 3:51 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>
>
>George,
>
>Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard of.
Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where to get it,
etc.?
>
>Thanks,
>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>"George Race" wrote:
>
>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>>
>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>intermittent connections.
>>
>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>connector.
>>
>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>
>>George
>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Bonds <kevinbonds(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Micheal
I have a unique perspective on this. I lost sight almost entirely in my
left eye when I was about 13. Got into a fight with a struck nail while
building a skateboard ramp. My vision was about 20-400 if I squinted. I
lost the natural lens in my eye and the doc didn't want to put in an
implant since I was still growing. Before the accident I was a good
shot with a basketball. Afterwards for a while I couldn't hit the "broad
side of a barn" and I bumped into a lot of walls and furniture. But in a
few months time I was hitting baskets again just like nothing was lost.
I didn't miss my eye after a while. as a matter of fact I waited until
my late 20's to have that implant put in. Bad news is, the first one was
too small and slipped downward causing me to see through the
edge--giving me double vision in that eye for a couple of years (I had
to wait to totally heal before redoing the operation). But one of the
"visions" was almost 20-20. Even the seeing of double out of one eye
didn't bother me that much after a while. As long as I didn't close my
good eye, my brain would compensate by filtering out the incorrect of
the two "visions". So don't get down. Give yourself some time. I am
speaking from experience.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Race" <mykitairplane(at)mrrace.com> |
| Subject: | You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink |
Dual Wall Heat Shrink has been around for many years.
Lots of places have it and most call it either Dual Wall Heat Shrink or Heat
Shrink Encapsulate Tubing.
Here are a few references:
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/duwaheshtuki.html They have assorted
kits with a lot of sizes.
http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmdw1info.html Here is a complete
specification page for some really good stuff.
And last but not least, the place I have been buying it from. It is a 3M
product of very good quality. You probably pay a bit more for it but it is
worth it in the long run. Look toward the bottom of their page for the dual
wall stuff.
Their prices are good and they ship real fast. You may also want one of
their catalogues. They have a lot of misc stuff as well.
http://www.action-electronics.com/heatshrink.htm
During my working days we used a lot of this stuff for underground direct
buried cable splices. Worked just great for phone cables, CATV cables, and
even coaxial cables with connectors. The 3/4 inch size stuff works just
great to seal up PL259 Connectors for coax. The 3/8 inch stuff works great
on CATV cables and connectors, the 75 ohm stuff, RG-59U.
Hope this helps.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink |
Waytek sells it too, in a variety of colors and sizes.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_113.PDF
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Race
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink
Dual Wall Heat Shrink has been around for many years.
Lots of places have it and most call it either Dual Wall Heat Shrink or Heat
Shrink Encapsulate Tubing.
Here are a few references:
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/duwaheshtuki.html They have assorted
kits with a lot of sizes.
http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmdw1info.html Here is a complete
specification page for some really good stuff.
And last but not least, the place I have been buying it from. It is a 3M
product of very good quality. You probably pay a bit more for it but it is
worth it in the long run. Look toward the bottom of their page for the dual
wall stuff.
Their prices are good and they ship real fast. You may also want one of
their catalogues. They have a lot of misc stuff as well.
http://www.action-electronics.com/heatshrink.htm
During my working days we used a lot of this stuff for underground direct
buried cable splices. Worked just great for phone cables, CATV cables, and
even coaxial cables with connectors. The 3/4 inch size stuff works just
great to seal up PL259 Connectors for coax. The 3/8 inch stuff works great
on CATV cables and connectors, the 75 ohm stuff, RG-59U.
Hope this helps.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
There are connectors designed for harsh environments. One example are
automotive connectors with individual seals on the leads. Waytek sells them:
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_033.pdf (top of the page)
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Race
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Phillips <ttp44(at)rkymtn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
When I was getting ready to wire up my elevator trim servo, I posed the
connector question on the Aeroelectric list. I was directed towards a
modified DB-9 connector that was originally suggested for this application
by Electric Bob. The resultant thread is here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=35647
One of the responders provides a link to Bob's descriptive web pages.
Nuckoll's recommends DB connectors as inexpensive, high quality (gold
plated contacts), and builder friendly. I plan to use them
extensively--when I get to FWF and panel. I used the modified DB-9 on my
elevator and aileron trims. The circuits test out fine. It'll be a while
before I can prove them in the air. For a description of what I did, go to
my KitlogPro site (see link below) and check out the 12/7/07, 12/11/07,
1/25/08 & 1/27/08 logs.
Incidentally, somewhere in the info I collected on this subject was a
recommendation from RAC to not use crimp connectors on their AWG24 or 26
servo wires. They recommend only solder connections for those wires. It was
difficult to locate a source for solder type male DB-9's, but I found a
place with good selection & price, Action-Electronics.com. I used
gold-plated crimp-type sockets from SteinAir ($.25/ea) for the AWG-22
connection wires.
Also, regarding the adhesive coated heat shrink tubing, McMaster-Carr has
an amazing selection of heat shrink tubing, both with and without adhesive.
I used the adhesive type on my 1st 2 DB-9 connectors and wish I hadn't. I
don't think they can be disassembled w/o damage.
There are lots of acceptable ways to make these connections. I offer the
DB-9's as an alternative to the microphone connectors that you may want to
consider. I think will work for me. YMMV.
Terry
>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>
>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They
>do not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in
>the air or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor
>atmosphere. The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very
>corroded causing intermittent connections.
>
>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the
>connector. I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any
>problem. But to be sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE
>using this type of connector.
>
>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>
>George
>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Hi Larry,
I'd recommend you build the seats to fit the 6'-2" person and after
getting the proportions right for comfort disregarding the length of
your legs, make the seat back adjustable
both top and bottom to allow it to be positioned forward a distance that
you feel best with at the pedals. There are several spacer types or
adapters that would position your seat forward an inch or two so you get
a good fit. I don't see any benefit in trying a track on the bottom of
the seat when it's basically making the seat-back do the work.
The seat bottom is one plane of reference that can be fixed and the seat
back may more easily be made adjustable. This would be my approach.
Take note of the bottom channel that holds the bottom of my seat-back
and imagine two rows of channel and bolt in spacers at the top. I use
bungees for the top of my seats going back inside to hold them in place.
Larry McFarland
Larry H wrote:
> Larry, I have a question about the seats and maybe you can answer it
> for me. I was wondering if there's such a thing as replacing the
> permanently mounted seats with a moveable seat like that in a Cessna?
> I'm a pretty short legged pilot and if I mount the seats too close to
> the pedals, any of my friends that are much taller than I will have a
> dickens of a time with the seat being too close for them. I've only
> started my XL but I've been wondering how others have handled it.
> When AMD builds the Alarus (mother to the XL), how do they handle the
> seating in those?? I'm sure there are a lot of them out here being
> used for General Aviation. Any help you could offer here will put my
> mind at ease some.
>
> Regards
> Larry H
>
> */LarryMcFarland /* wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jeff,
> The seats are easily done with plywood backs or fiberglass.
> Automotive
> foams are cheaper and perhaps
> easier to get hold of at many sewing and fabric outlets. Density is
> something you want to pay attention to.
> Confor foam is expensive beyond practical concerns, but for
> flammability
> perhaps. I've a page on
> seat construction that may explain the process. See link below.
> Seat backs need only go an inch or more above the shelf or to
> shoulder
> support height. Easier to get
> belts over your shoulders if you don't go too high. Head rests are
> for
> the flying public and passengers
> but I wouldn't recommend them because of a need for access to the
> rear
> shelf during flight.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
> Good luck,
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Jeff wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there
> really are
> > three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat
> backs, and the
> > upholstery.
> >
> > My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> > (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site
> appears to
> > be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use
> fiberglass.
> >
> > For the cushions, several types of foam are available from
> common soft foam
> > to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns
> for the
> > 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price
> of Hi-Tech,
> > but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured
> shapes. Does
> > anyone have either installed?
> >
> > I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy <pbuttles(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | nitrogen clynders |
does anyone know what size or part number ,nitrogen clynders are used on the bubble
doors with assits. Zenith does not come with any but I have seen pics of
a few that have been put in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
| From: | <Craig.Spainhower(at)exeloncorp.com> |
I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do from the
wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface, which would
prevent getting an accurate indication.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601xl lyc 0-235, waiting for warmer weather to finish wiring and mount
wings
Does anyone of you using a holes in the wing as a ports for AOA?
-----------------------------------------
**************************************************
This e-mail and any of its attachments may contain Exelon
Corporation proprietary information, which is privileged,
confidential, or subject to copyright belonging to the Exelon
Corporation family of Companies.
This e-mail is intended solely for the use of the individual or
entity to which it is addressed. If you are not the intended
recipient of this e-mail, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, copying, or action taken in relation
to the contents of and attachments to this e-mail is strictly
prohibited and may be unlawful. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately and permanently
delete the original and any copy of this e-mail and any printout.
Thank You.
**************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
| From: | "pavel569" <pm569(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Craig.Spainhower(at)exelo wrote:
> I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do from
the wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface, which would
prevent getting an accurate indication.
I always thought that the AOA is actually measuring the difference of the air layer
(pressure) on top and bottom of the wing. The pitot tube protrudes far from
the wing not to be affected by the boundary layer on the bottom of the wing
you are mentioning, because it measures air speed. The LRI probe has to be further
away from the wing for the same reason. The high/low pressure holes are
close together and the angle of their surfaces substitutes the wing profile. Just
my $.02.
--------
Pavel
CA
Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166051#166051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
Advanced Flight Systems sells a system with flush probes that has been
available for years.
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/Products/AOA/aoa.html
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Craig.Spainhower(at)exeloncorp.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question
I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do
from the wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface,
which would prevent getting an accurate indication.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601xl lyc 0-235, waiting for warmer weather to finish wiring and
mount wings
Does anyone of you using a holes in the wing as a ports for AOA?
-----------------------------------------
**************************************************
This e-mail and any of its attachments may contain Exelon
Corporation proprietary information, which is privileged,
confidential, or subject to copyright belonging to the Exelon
Corporation family of Companies.
This e-mail is intended solely for the use of the individual or
entity to which it is addressed. If you are not the intended
recipient of this e-mail, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, copying, or action taken in relation
to the contents of and attachments to this e-mail is strictly
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**************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
The biggest reason for headrests is that after a rapid deceleration against a restraint
like a seat belt or even a shoulder harness your head will snap back.
If there is no cushion/stop to limit the travel hyperextension of the neck and
even fracture associated with only the snap back can occur.
All,
I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really are
three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs, and the
upholstery.
My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
(reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site appears to
be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use fiberglass.
For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common soft foam
to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns for the
601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of Hi-Tech,
but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured shapes. Does
anyone have either installed?
I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover done
should be the easiest part.
I have a couple questions:
How far above the baggage shelf should the headrest portion of the seatback
extend to protect our heads? Most of the pictures I see just have a large
arc or simple straight edge as the top of the seat back. Is there a reason
that there is no head rest? Should the seats be more like the bucket seats
in a car with integral head rests? Is it just personal preference? I just
measured my plane and came up with 300 mm above the shelf for the top of the
headrest assuming a 3 inch foam seat over the seat pan. How do the
Flightcrafters or Zenith seats compare?
Thanks ....
Jeff D.
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
I used a piece of 6061-T6 1/8" extruded angle to make a bracket for the
panel mount piec and it will mount under the rudder fairing, on the
upper surface of the H-stab once I run the elevator cable. It obviously
has to be off center enough to miss the cable. From the bracket mounted
panel mount part, the RAC cable travels on to the elevator and trim
servo. If the tail parts need to be removed, the male part of the
connector stays with the fuselage and the rest stays with the tail.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
I have used this connector without any trouble for five years in the
tail area of my EAB registered fat ultralight. I have not even shrink
wrapped it, except of course for where the cable enters the two
connector parts. The junction of the two halves of the connector is a
screw together fitting that seems to be sealed well enough based on past
performance.
As a general rule, if the appropriate gauge is too large to fit into the
little solder tubes of the connector, use a heftier connector. The
entire trim system calls for a 2 amp breaker or fuse.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
The Advanced Flight Systems AOA system uses flush mounted ports on the
upper and lower surfaces of the wing for sensing AOA.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bottom Rudder Bracket attachment |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
Thank you Chris, I appreciate your time spent taking your pictures.
I have been building for a few months now, everyone I've come across has been so
helpful. I appreciate all of you out there who are willing to take some time
to help others out. I wonder what it would be like if I wasn't building a Zenith?
Without so many helpful folks I would still have a pile of aluminum in
my garage. Now I have a pile of aluminum that is beginning to resemble a plane!
I had a question that I wrote to Zenith the other day, Sebastian replied
via email in less than 30 minutes! I couldn't believe it.
Though I am new to the list, I look forward to offering my experience and advice
as I progress. At this point I only feel qualified to instruct others on the
techniques of drilling out and replacing rivets :) .
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166108#166108
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wade jones" <wjones(at)BRAZORIAINET.COM> |
| Subject: | Experimental Nature |
Hello group ,though I would share with you an experiment that I just
tried . I live on the gulf coast where the humidity is very high .A
couple of days ago I got a little gas from my 5 gal can into a small
glass jar .This 10 percent ethanol gas had been in my garage about a
week .When it was in the glass jar I noticed it was a milky color .I
though the alcohol may have collected water from the humidity ,so last
night I placed some clear gas into the jar and left it overnight in the
hanger .And this morning it was no longer clear it was a milky color .
Wade Jones
South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Experimental Nature |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
This, among other things, is why Ethanol is bad when it comes to airplanes.
wjones(at)BRAZORIAINET.CO wrote:
> Hello group ,though I would share with you an experiment that I just tried .
I live on the gulf coast where the humidity is very high .A couple of days ago
I got a little gas from my 5 gal can into a small glass jar .This 10 percent
ethanol gas had been in my garage about a week .When it was in the glass jar
I noticed it was a milky color .I though the alcohol may have collected water
from the humidity ,so last night I placed some clear gas into the jar and
left it overnight in the hanger .And this morning it was no longer clear it
was a milky color .
Wade Jones South Texas
> 601XL plans building
> Cont. 0200
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166137#166137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Andrew Elliott" <a.s.elliott(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the firewall |
Met Gus from FlywithGus.com Saturday afternoon at Silver Sky Aviation in
Chandler, AZ, where he is doing a Corvair installation for one of Silver
Sky's customers. I noticed that the firewall looked especially nice,
having a uniform satin aluminum-like color, instead of the unaesthetic
galvanized finish. Asked, and was told that he cleaned and primed the
firewall with self-etching primer and then shot it with aluminum-color
engine paint.
Banging myself on the noggin for not thinking of that one myself, I went
home did the same! I used Duplicolor 1200=B0 High-Heat paint with
ceramic, because I happened to have a 1/2-used can on the shelf. Total
effort about 1/2 hour for removing a few things from the firewall and
masking, then another 15 minutes (not counting drying time) for the
coats of primer and paint.
Voila! Now I also have a pretty satin aluminum finish on my firewall!
And maybe even some insulation value due to the ceramic in the paint.
Thanks, Gus!
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD, Corvair, building...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Steensland <zenith-list(at)steensland.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nitrogen clynders |
not to plagiarize a previous post I found this that may be helpful:
robert stone wrote:
I found the canopy gas springs or struts were not strong enough to
hold the canopy up even in a light breeze. I inquired as to the
strength of the struts furnished in the kit and found them to be 40
pounds. I replaced them with a pair of 60 pounders and eliminated the
problem of my canopy slamming down unexpected.
I am sure some of you who are building or have built the ZodiacXL
either have the same problem or will have so here is the information on
obtaining the stronger struts. McMasters & Company are the people Zenith
Aircraft gets the struts from. Their phone number is 630-833-0300. The
gas struts furnished by Zenith for the ZodiacXL are part number 9416K12
(40 Pound) the stronger strut is part number 8416K123 (60 Pound) The
cost for two is $19.76, shipping is $5.00 for a total of $24.76. They
come without the attaching ends so you have to use your old ones however
the old struts screw out and the new one screws in. Very easy to change.
Tracy wrote:
>
> does anyone know what size or part number ,nitrogen clynders are used on the
bubble doors with assits. Zenith does not come with any but I have seen pics of
a few that have been put in.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | nitrogen clynders |
Just be aware that Tracy's original post appears to be about the bubble doors on
a 701 or 801. The 40 or 60 pound units were for the 601's heavier bubble canopy.
But I'm sure McMasters would have something suitable for the bubble doors.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lee Steensland
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: nitrogen clynders
not to plagiarize a previous post I found this that may be helpful:
robert stone wrote:
I found the canopy gas springs or struts were not strong enough to
hold the canopy up even in a light breeze. I inquired as to the
strength of the struts furnished in the kit and found them to be 40
pounds. I replaced them with a pair of 60 pounders and eliminated the
problem of my canopy slamming down unexpected.
I am sure some of you who are building or have built the ZodiacXL
either have the same problem or will have so here is the information on
obtaining the stronger struts. McMasters & Company are the people Zenith
Aircraft gets the struts from. Their phone number is 630-833-0300. The
gas struts furnished by Zenith for the ZodiacXL are part number 9416K12
(40 Pound) the stronger strut is part number 8416K123 (60 Pound) The
cost for two is $19.76, shipping is $5.00 for a total of $24.76. They
come without the attaching ends so you have to use your old ones however
the old struts screw out and the new one screws in. Very easy to change.
Tracy wrote:
>
> does anyone know what size or part number ,nitrogen clynders are used on the
bubble doors with assits. Zenith does not come with any but I have seen pics of
a few that have been put in.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
Dan, that sounds to me like a Westach gauge to me, you
should be able to get the wiring information from
their website.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
>I've managed to loose (if I ever had them)
>instructions on wiring a
> dual EGT/CHT gauge. The gauge doesn't have the
>manufacturer, just a made
> in china lable on it.
>It's a 2 1/4" round gauge. It has 4 posts on the
>back labelled, 1, 3,
> 4, 5.
>I've got thermocouples that I purchased at the same
>time.
>Anyone got some suggestions?
>Dan Dempsey
>601XL
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Michael Honer" <amhoner(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU! |
The response which I received from my offer to sell my project 601XL has
been more than I expected, both in the many inquiries which came into my
e-mail box, and the notes of reassurance and " don't give up the ship."
Some of them brought tears. Thanks to all of you.
It was about 25 years ago, after We had sent off the last college
tuition check for the last kid that Anne and I decided to go flying. We
earned our ASEL and Instrument ratings and have between the two of us
more than 4500 hours in the air, with about 200 hours of actual
instrument time in our 1980 C-172, which we decided to sell about 2
years ago.
Things got tough physically for me about 10 years ago, when my MD asked
me if I knew I had had a heart attack. After some months, he encouraged
me to go back after my Certificate.
But by that time I was having extreme problems with a rare form of
arthritis, and occasionally could barely walk. (I may finally have found
the right combination to deal with that, by the way.)
It's not worth going over, even if I could without going into a blue
funk.
The stroke was the last straw. Taking the positive approach, that blood
clot(from a stent installed 5 years ago) was the last straw. The clot
took out 60% of my left eye, but could have gone straight into my right
brain and left me in bed with a bed pan, not being able to figure out
what it was for.
So, it can be said that I (we) have already lived our dream of flying.
That is why the 601XL is for sale. It is well built, (if I say so myself
) and it is priced such that perhaps someone younger and healthier than
I can live his own dream. I know the price is about what the engine
alone costs in today's dollars.
Best wishes to all, and thanks very much for your kind wishes.
Mike Honer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Klaus Truemper <klaus(at)utdallas.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Hi,
Another possible choice are the seatbacks used in the RV6. We used that
in my
plane. They are lightweight and strong.
Happy building and flying,
Klaus
klaus(at)utdallas.edu
www.utdallas.edu/~klaus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip" <madriver(at)wildblue.net> |
Thought I'd ask if anyone knew what throttle cables were used in the
Homebuilt help CH 701 912S engine install video.
Would like supplier and part number so I don't have to re-invent the
wheel. Looks like they were going to use a cable on each side -
wondered about the internal friction of two cables.
Also got a good look at the package that had the attachment parts for
the cable to the throttle assy. Does anyone know where they can be
purchased?
Phil Smith
701..... 90 done 110 to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU! |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
As you wish.
You could still finish it, just for the fun of it! Then you could give an even
better deal to some, as you say younger guy. Not me though, the 701 is my dream.
Best Regards
Kevin McCune
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166227#166227
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Experimental Nature |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
It isn't so good for cars ether,but at least in that instance it is not dangerous.
An acceptable risk point of view.
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166228#166228
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Michael Honer" <amhoner(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU! |
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Michael Honer
To: Zenith-List(at)Matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 5:01 PM
Subject: A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU!
The response which I received from my offer to sell my project 601XL
has been more than I expected, both in the many inquiries which came
into my e-mail box, and the notes of reassurance and " don't give up the
ship." Some of them brought tears. Thanks to all of you.
It was about 25 years ago, after We had sent off the last college
tuition check for the last kid that Anne and I decided to go flying. We
earned our ASEL and Instrument ratings and have between the two of us
more than 4500 hours in the air, with about 200 hours of actual
instrument time in our 1980 C-172, which we decided to sell about 2
years ago.
Things got tough physically for me about 10 years ago, when my MD
asked me if I knew I had had a heart attack. After some months, he
encouraged me to go back after my Certificate.
But by that time I was having extreme problems with a rare form of
arthritis, and occasionally could barely walk. (I may finally have found
the right combination to deal with that, by the way.)
It's not worth going over, even if I could without going into a blue
funk.
The stroke was the last straw. Taking the positive approach, that
blood clot(from a stent installed 5 years ago) was the last straw. The
clot took out 60% of my left eye, but could have gone straight into my
right brain and left me in bed with a bed pan, not being able to figure
out what it was for.
So, it can be said that I (we) have already lived our dream of flying.
That is why the 601XL is for sale. It is well built, (if I say so
myself ) and it is priced such that perhaps someone younger and
healthier than I can live his own dream. I know the price is about what
the engine alone costs in today's dollars.
Best wishes to all, and thanks very much for your kind wishes.
Mike Honer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
for the guys still scratching their heads on Torque values, ( i am frankly),
attached is the table from the ASA aviaitoin mechanic handbook:
AN Bolt NUt bolt Tension
Size Size in-lbs
an3 1-32 20-25 add torque for nylock nuts to all
an4 1/4-28 50-70
an5 5/16-24 100- 140
an 6 3/8- 24 460-190
an 7 7/16-20 450- 500
after tyhat size we are getting to Boeing sized Nuts.
Other subject is the flaps. I was coming in for a landing and at 80 mph, set the
flaps switch, as i trimmed, I kept compensating for heavier and heavier left
wing. at 70 mph trimmed on 1/4 mile final, i looked and one flap was at 5
degree down and the other was full 20+ dgree down. the plane was still very
controlable. I landed then reset the flaps. upon review the flaps came up when
I broke the speed above 85 mph inadvertantly. the key is the plane did ot
fall out of the sky, just kept flying it. says great things about the rougedness
of the design.
solved the radio noise from the Jabiru engine. the saver was Resistor Spark PLugs.
Size is DR9EA-9 on the Jab 3300. did the job.
Juan Vega
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dingfelder" <ding(at)tbscc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Seat Builders,
I used 1/4 " birch plywood from Lowes for seat
backs, and it worked out well. I punched several large holes in them to keep
them light, something I'm rather anal about (so I'm told!). They can be
purchased in 2' x 2' pieces. A few miles up
the road fron me is an upholstery supply place. I bought three grades of
foam in 1" thicknesses. An electric kitchen knife, spray glue, and a few
hours later I had nicely shaped, stylish, light and comfy cushions ready for
my sister-in-law to upholster. About $70 invested.
Lynn Corry, PA
601 XL / Corvair
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
| From: | "cookwithgas" <cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Thanks Juan for that story about the flaps.
I have wondered what would happen if one flap was down and the other was not.
What actually came loose? Mine have a bolt through the sleeve that connects the
two sides.
Thanks again,
Scott Laughlin
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Videos/Fly_By_Feb_23_2008.wmv
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166260#166260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Culver" <rculver(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU! |
Wow Mike that is quite a saga. Sounds to me that you have had a long
successful time flying.So sorry that you have to give it up but you know
your body and abilities better than anyone. Big salute from this old
guy..still plugging away on my 701. If I had the money and the desire
for a 601 I would take her and treat her with extreme care but alas that
isn't my situation.
I hope that you can get an up in the right seat if that is to your
interest.It sounds that you married the right woman as well..
God Bless,
Ron Culver
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Michael Honer
To: Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 5:01 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: A Wonderful bunch of guys THANK YOU!
The response which I received from my offer to sell my project 601XL
has been more than I expected, both in the many inquiries which came
into my e-mail box, and the notes of reassurance and " don't give up the
ship." Some of them brought tears. Thanks to all of you.
It was about 25 years ago, after We had sent off the last college
tuition check for the last kid that Anne and I decided to go flying. We
earned our ASEL and Instrument ratings and have between the two of us
more than 4500 hours in the air, with about 200 hours of actual
instrument time in our 1980 C-172, which we decided to sell about 2
years ago.
Things got tough physically for me about 10 years ago, when my MD
asked me if I knew I had had a heart attack. After some months, he
encouraged me to go back after my Certificate.
But by that time I was having extreme problems with a rare form of
arthritis, and occasionally could barely walk. (I may finally have found
the right combination to deal with that, by the way.)
It's not worth going over, even if I could without going into a blue
funk.
The stroke was the last straw. Taking the positive approach, that
blood clot(from a stent installed 5 years ago) was the last straw. The
clot took out 60% of my left eye, but could have gone straight into my
right brain and left me in bed with a bed pan, not being able to figure
out what it was for.
So, it can be said that I (we) have already lived our dream of flying.
That is why the 601XL is for sale. It is well built, (if I say so
myself ) and it is priced such that perhaps someone younger and
healthier than I can live his own dream. I know the price is about what
the engine alone costs in today's dollars.
Best wishes to all, and thanks very much for your kind wishes.
Mike Honer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
Hi Juan,
Could you tell us what exactly happened to cause the flaps to deploy
like that ? Did the torque tube pine come out of the slot ?
Thanks,
John Davis
Burnsville, NC
601XL - Jab 3300 - Almost done!!!
Juan Vega wrote:
>
> for the guys still scratching their heads on Torque values, ( i am frankly),
attached is the table from the ASA aviaitoin mechanic handbook:
>
> AN Bolt NUt bolt Tension
> Size Size in-lbs
>
> an3 1-32 20-25 add torque for nylock nuts to all
>
> an4 1/4-28 50-70
>
> an5 5/16-24 100- 140
>
> an 6 3/8- 24 460-190
>
> an 7 7/16-20 450- 500
>
> after tyhat size we are getting to Boeing sized Nuts.
>
>
> Other subject is the flaps. I was coming in for a landing and at 80 mph, set
the flaps switch, as i trimmed, I kept compensating for heavier and heavier
left wing. at 70 mph trimmed on 1/4 mile final, i looked and one flap was at
5 degree down and the other was full 20+ dgree down. the plane was still very
controlable. I landed then reset the flaps. upon review the flaps came up
when I broke the speed above 85 mph inadvertantly. the key is the plane did ot
fall out of the sky, just kept flying it. says great things about the rougedness
of the design.
>
>
> solved the radio noise from the Jabiru engine. the saver was Resistor Spark
PLugs. Size is DR9EA-9 on the Jab 3300. did the job.
>
>
> Juan Vega
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave VanLanen" <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Gloves For Chemical Protection |
I had my wife (a nurse) procure a box of the high-quality Mediguard nitrile
exam gloves for my use when working with chemicals such as laquer thinner.
On the weekend I cleaned a number of elevator parts in preparation for
priming, and after removing the gloves, I noticed that the skin on a couple
of my fingers, the ones I used to work the cleaning rags, were more dried
out than usual, with small surface cracks. Its possible that this came from
a small hole in the glove or something, but it got me to wondering if these
gloves are adequate for this work. I could purchase the heavier gauge
chemical-resistant gloves that are available, but they are harder to work
with because they are thicker and bulkier. Can anyone offer advice on this?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
601XL - Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
the pin actually came out of the slot in the flap. i think enough up pressure
was placed to drive the pin on the arm out of the flap nylon slot. I remember
the nylon is flexible to certain point.
juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: cookwithgas <cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.COM>
>Sent: Feb 25, 2008 10:29 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise
>
>
>Thanks Juan for that story about the flaps.
>
>I have wondered what would happen if one flap was down and the other was not.
What actually came loose? Mine have a bolt through the sleeve that connects
the two sides.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Scott Laughlin
>http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Videos/Fly_By_Feb_23_2008.wmv
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166260#166260
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
deplyed the flap at too high of a speed all the way to the last setting, and the
pin came out of the slot.
juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Davis <johnd@data-tech.com>
>Sent: Feb 26, 2008 8:09 AM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise
>
>
>Hi Juan,
>
>Could you tell us what exactly happened to cause the flaps to deploy
>like that ? Did the torque tube pine come out of the slot ?
>
>Thanks,
>John Davis
>Burnsville, NC
>601XL - Jab 3300 - Almost done!!!
>
>Juan Vega wrote:
>>
>> for the guys still scratching their heads on Torque values, ( i am frankly),
attached is the table from the ASA aviaitoin mechanic handbook:
>>
>> AN Bolt NUt bolt Tension
>> Size Size in-lbs
>>
>> an3 1-32 20-25 add torque for nylock nuts to all
>>
>> an4 1/4-28 50-70
>>
>> an5 5/16-24 100- 140
>>
>> an 6 3/8- 24 460-190
>>
>> an 7 7/16-20 450- 500
>>
>> after tyhat size we are getting to Boeing sized Nuts.
>>
>>
>> Other subject is the flaps. I was coming in for a landing and at 80 mph, set
the flaps switch, as i trimmed, I kept compensating for heavier and heavier
left wing. at 70 mph trimmed on 1/4 mile final, i looked and one flap was at
5 degree down and the other was full 20+ dgree down. the plane was still very
controlable. I landed then reset the flaps. upon review the flaps came up
when I broke the speed above 85 mph inadvertantly. the key is the plane did
ot fall out of the sky, just kept flying it. says great things about the rougedness
of the design.
>>
>>
>> solved the radio noise from the Jabiru engine. the saver was Resistor Spark
PLugs. Size is DR9EA-9 on the Jab 3300. did the job.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Juan Vega
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Phillips <ttp44(at)rkymtn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gloves For Chemical Protection |
Dave
After a career as a chemical engineer, I tend to be pretty nonchalant about
exposure to chemicals (my wife is convinced I'm killing myself! I hope
she's wrong!) But I am exposed to the lacquer thinner so often while
building that I decided to wear gloves. I just wear some of the knit gloves
that are sold in hardware and other stores that have some sort of rubber
coating on the palms and fronts of the fingers. I've never detected any
lacquer thinner on my hands after use. I doubt that these gloves would be
adequate for long exposure, but my longest usages of thinner have not been
over 4 or 5 minutes. And I never get it on the backs of my hands or fingers.
I have also been using these gloves for other tasks. I really like them
when scouring by hand with ScotchBrite and when deburring inside structures
or handling parts with burred edges. They are not too hot and they have
quite good grip and tactile feedback. They give just enough protection w/o
interfering with the work like leather gloves. I keep one "good" pair for
thinner work, and one "work" pair for other tasks.
Terry
>I had my wife (a nurse) procure a box of the high-quality Mediguard
>nitrile exam gloves for my use when working with chemicals such as laquer
>thinner. On the weekend I cleaned a number of elevator parts in
>preparation for priming, and after removing the gloves, I noticed that the
>skin on a couple of my fingers, the ones I used to work the cleaning rags,
>were more dried out than usual, with small surface cracks. Its possible
>that this came from a small hole in the glove or something, but it got me
>to wondering if these gloves are adequate for this work. I could purchase
>the heavier gauge chemical-resistant gloves that are available, but they
>are harder to work with because they are thicker and bulkier. Can anyone
>offer advice on this?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Van Lanen
>
>601XL - Elevator
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Race" <mykitairplane(at)mrrace.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical Wiring Information |
Here is a web reference to a very good page on electrical connectors,
wiring, heat shrink, crimping and all things electrical for the experimental
aircraft builder.
If nothing more, it make very good reading and contains a lot of
information.
http://www.heli-chair.com/wiring_101.html
Check it out,
George
Zenith CH-701 - N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Dave,
I'm going with the dual throttle mod so my installation is a bit different. Have
you looked at the throttle / choke cable installation instructions on the JabiruUSA
website?
http://www.usjabiru.com/images/pdf/Vernier%20Throttle%20Installation.pdf
Good luck!
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166354#166354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John M. Goodings" <goodings(at)yorku.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
I am a huge believer in silicone grease. Every electrical contact in my
aircraft (nuts, washers, lock washers, screw threads on bolts, pins and
sockets on multi-pin plugs and jacks, etc.) is smeared with silicone
grease before I leave it assembled. I have NEVER had one of these fail to
make contact because of the grease. When I look occasionally at one of
these contacts done 5 or 10 years (or even longer!) ago, the contact is
still covered with silicone grease (a thin layer, put on with my fingers -
not slathered on) and the corrosion is zero.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Carp/Ottawa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
Dave,
Not sure if you have seen the new Homebuilthelp.com Zenith 601/Jabiru installation
video, but it gets covered there. Jabiru recommends bending the brass cable-end
adjuster to help accommodate the bends the cable is required to make.
I am putting in the dual throttle which also requires bending around the center
structure. Although not the best view, I attached the only picture I currently
have showing the bent adjusters at the carb for both throttle and choke.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail & wings completed and
fueslage pretty well done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166366#166366
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuselage_356_974.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Phillips <ttp44(at)rkymtn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Klaus
I am wondering just what you bought from Van. Did you get the foam
cushions? I find them in their on-line catalog for a pretty good price. Or
did you get the supporting seatback for the RV-6? I cannot find seatbacks
on the site. In fact, I cannot find parts that are for any specific kit. Is
there any way (for a non-RV builder) to locate such parts on Van's site?
Terry
>
>Hi,
>
>Another possible choice are the seatbacks used in the RV6. We used that in my
>plane. They are lightweight and strong.
>
>Happy building and flying,
>
>Klaus
>
>klaus(at)utdallas.edu
>www.utdallas.edu/~klaus
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 |
| From: | "swater6" <waters.scott(at)comcast.net> |
I too needed to file the hinge pieces to get the proper travel. Not a big issue
to do and retain the proper radius.
One way to check the required travel is when fitting the nose gear. Once you fit
the nose gear, you can twist it to it's limits and see the distance that the
connecting rods move. It's smaller than you might think. Also when you fit
the rudder, you can check it's limits.
Scott
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and both wings complete. Now working on fuselage
www.scottwaters.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166379#166379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Andrew Elliott" <a.s.elliott(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Attaching rudder springs for TD 601XL? |
For you other XL taildragger builders out there, I need to install the
rudder return springs and was wondering how various people attached them
to the inboard pedals. (The firewall end is straightforward, I think.)
I have thought of tapping into the side of the pedal for an 8-32 screw,
and using some kind of band clamp. I do not want to do any welding at
this stage.
Ideas or Suggestions?
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (reserved)
601XL/TD, Corvair?, building...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Steensland <zenith-list(at)steensland.net> |
| Subject: | 601xl materials list |
Folksen,
I have been working on my materials list for my 601xl. I would like to
believe I have all the major parts listed, thicknesses, number of each
and finally rough dimensions and areas.
Here is what I have for just the sheet goods 6061-T6:
0.016 5-4'x8'
0.025 11-4'x12'
0.032 1-4'x12'
0.063 1-4'x4'
I have checked and rechecked, but it's always good to have someone else
that's been there to either point and laugh or confirm my calculations.
I haven't done the "it's cheaper to get Y-4'x12' sheets rather than
X-4'x8' sheets, etc. This was strictly looking at the max dimensions of
the pieces I needed and buying that + some overage.
Do those quantities jive, or am I smoking crack?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Bonds <kevinbonds(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601xl materials list |
Lee
Go to http://www.ch601.org/builder%20resources.htm and get the 601xl.pdf
where it says "new 601xl version layout sheets". I can't remember what I
ordered originally before the change was made to the thicker skins.
Kevin Bonds
Lee Steensland wrote:
>
>
> Folksen,
>
> I have been working on my materials list for my 601xl. I would like
> to believe I have all the major parts listed, thicknesses, number of
> each and finally rough
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601xl materials list |
Hi Lee,
For the HDS it was prudent to have more 8 foot sheets as I learned the
hard way. You should inventory your long pieces and figure how many of
each you need and add 20% for damage and errors in your shop. I'd buy
enough .016 for ailerons, elevators, etc. Replace any other .016 skin
with .020
where you can. I made 5 ailerons to get two correct and then
accidentally stepped on the good one and bought more sheet. Several rear
top skins
two rudder nose skins, two stabilizer nose skins, and many other parts
too numerous to mention to get it exactly right. You get the idea. With
the XL
you might just be ahead with 12 footers.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Lee Steensland wrote:
>
>
> Folksen,
>
> I have been working on my materials list for my 601xl. I would like
> to believe I have all the major parts listed, thicknesses, number of
> each and finally rough dimensions and areas.
>
> Here is what I have for just the sheet goods 6061-T6:
>
> 0.016 5-4'x8'
> 0.025 11-4'x12'
> 0.032 1-4'x12'
> 0.063 1-4'x4'
>
> I have checked and rechecked, but it's always good to have someone
> else that's been there to either point and laugh or confirm my
> calculations.
>
> I haven't done the "it's cheaper to get Y-4'x12' sheets rather than
> X-4'x8' sheets, etc. This was strictly looking at the max dimensions
> of the pieces I needed and buying that + some overage.
>
> Do those quantities jive, or am I smoking crack?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Smith <zenithlist(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upholstery sources |
What would be a reasonable charge for a local automotive upholstery shop to make
the covers for those seats?
I ended up building my own and then taking it to a local auto upholstery shop.
I am real happy with the resluts. Check it out on my site
http://www.zodiacxl.com/Seats.htm
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
--------
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165804#165804
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1786_107.jpg
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Sherman <msherman95632(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 701 door gas springs |
Tracy.
I don't know if the springs I used will work on the bubble doors or not. Go to www.ch701.com and look under builders photos and then under Mark Sherman.
Pictures and part numbers are there.
Hope this helps.
Mark S.
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gloves For Chemical Protection |
you should try invisible gloves. i use this, and gloves if i know i will get the
chem on my skin. i used to not care, and played with MEK like candy. Now
i have these very weird dried up areas that are immune to any type of lotions
or creams.. next stop will be a dermatologist. nothing to play around with!
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
Http://www.kansasflying.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Dave VanLanen <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:12:09 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Gloves For Chemical Protection
I had my wife (a nurse) procure a box of the high-quality Mediguard nitrile exam
gloves for my use when working with chemicals such as laquer thinner. On the
weekend I cleaned a number of elevator parts in preparation for priming, and
after removing the gloves, I noticed that the skin on a couple of my fingers,
the ones I used to work the cleaning rags, were more dried out than usual, with
small surface cracks. Its possible that this came from a small hole in the
glove or something, but it got me to wondering if these gloves are adequate
for this work. I could purchase the heavier gauge chemical-resistant gloves that
are available, but they are harder to work with because they are thicker and
bulkier. Can anyone offer advice on this?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
601XL - Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gloves For Chemical Protection |
> I use the latex gloves from Walgreens. I had no
> problems with these gloves. They work fine...
--- Michael Hilderbrand
wrote:
> you should try invisible gloves. i use this, and
> gloves if i know i will get the chem on my skin. i
> used to not care, and played with MEK like candy.
> Now i have these very weird dried up areas that are
> immune to any type of lotions or creams.. next stop
> will be a dermatologist. nothing to play around
> with!
>
> Michael Hilderbrand
> Derby, Kansas
> Http://www.kansasflying.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Dave VanLanen <davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net>
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:12:09 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Gloves For Chemical Protection
>
>
> I had my wife (a nurse) procure a box of the
> high-quality Mediguard nitrile exam gloves for my
> use when working with chemicals such as laquer
> thinner. On the weekend I cleaned a number of
> elevator parts in preparation for priming, and after
> removing the gloves, I noticed that the skin on a
> couple of my fingers, the ones I used to work the
> cleaning rags, were more dried out than usual, with
> small surface cracks. Its possible that this came
> from a small hole in the glove or something, but it
> got me to wondering if these gloves are adequate for
> this work. I could purchase the heavier gauge
> chemical-resistant gloves that are available, but
> they are harder to work with because they are
> thicker and bulkier. Can anyone offer advice on
> this?
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> 601XL - Elevator
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
> Who makes the DR9EA-9 plug?
NGK
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166486#166486
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rroberts" <n701rr(at)yahoo.com> |
Hmmmm, Dragon Season must have opened in Alabama! Purple Dragon Season:
http://www.youtube.com:80/results?search_query=n701rr&search_type
--------
Low & Slow
Rick
www.n701rr.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166496#166496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise |
ngk as wel as another few. just google it.
juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron Lendon <rlendon(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Feb 26, 2008 9:13 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Torque Value Table, flap misshap and radio noise
>
>
>> Who makes the DR9EA-9 plug?
>
>NGK
>
>--------
>Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
>http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166486#166486
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Johnson" <david_a_g_johnson(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
Thanks for the tip - I have been watching Jon's videos, but when I saw the
section on installing the dual throttles, I decided that I didn't need to
watch that, as I'm going for the single throttle - WRONG!!
I should have realised that all of Jon's videos are worth watching. I put it
down to a 'senior moment' (I get a lot of them!)
Dave Johnson
----- Original Message -----
From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:01 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Routing choke and throttle cables
>
> Dave,
>
> Not sure if you have seen the new Homebuilthelp.com Zenith 601/Jabiru
> installation video, but it gets covered there. Jabiru recommends bending
> the brass cable-end adjuster to help accommodate the bends the cable is
> required to make. I am putting in the dual throttle which also requires
> bending around the center structure. Although not the best view, I
> attached the only picture I currently have showing the bent adjusters at
> the carb for both throttle and choke.
>
> Good luck,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL, tail & wings completed and
> fueslage pretty well done. Working engine and electrical systems.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166366#166366
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuselage_356_974.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy <pbuttles(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | 701 door springs |
thanks for the info Mark.
imjust woried about flexing on the bubble doors.guess I will build it and find
out
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent8(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 02/26/08 |
You have restored my faith, I thought you would rarely make a
mistake. I feel much better about my own screwups and having to redo parts
now that I see that near perfect workmanship comes at a price.:-)
alex t.
>>
>>
> From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> <mailto:larry(at)macsmachine.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601xl materials list
>
>
> Hi Lee,
> For the HDS it was prudent to have more 8 foot sheets as I learned the
> hard way. You should inventory your long pieces and figure how many of
> each you need and add 20% for damage and errors in your shop. I'd buy
> enough .016 for ailerons, elevators, etc. Replace any other .016 skin
> with .020
> where you can. I made 5 ailerons to get two correct and then
> accidentally stepped on the good one and bought more sheet. Several rear
> top skins
> two rudder nose skins, two stabilizer nose skins, and many other parts
> too numerous to mention to get it exactly right. You get the idea. With
> the XL
> you might just be ahead with 12 footers.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com <http://www.macsmachine.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LRM" <lrm(at)skyhawg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 door springs |
They will definitely crack if you don't reinforce them. Especially in cold
weather. One of mine did. They are made out of Plexiglas. If they had been
made out of Lexan it would not be a problem. Lexan flexes, Plexiglas does
not. Lexan is softer and will scratch easier. It is also harder than
Plexiglas to buff out, but can be done, I have done it. I asked Zenith why
they didn't use Lexan, their answer was that gas would distort or cloud the
finish. So, don't get gas on your doors!! If you do it will buff out.
Truth be known, Plexiglas is cheaper to buy and form. LRM www.skyhawg.com.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy" <pbuttles(at)charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 7:09 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 door springs
>
> thanks for the info Mark.
> imjust woried about flexing on the bubble doors.guess I will build it and
> find out
>
>
> --
> 9:08 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Maynard <jmaynard(at)conmicro.com> |
I'm getting ready to order a Zodiac XLi from AMD, and it was suggested that
I join this list. I know that it's mainly oriented to homebuilding, but I
hope to get some useful insight into the aircraft and flying it. I'd dearly
love to build my own. The reality is that I don't have anything close to the
time needed to devote to such a project.
I just got a BFR in Dragonfly Aviation's Zodiac. It took me one whole flight
and several really terrible arrivals (I won't call them landings) to realize
that I can't fly it the same way I'd fly a 172 or Tiger. The second flight
was a lot better, and I'm now convinced that I can fly the aircraft well,
given sufficient practice. That was my main concern; a secondary concern was
the seating, boththe positionand the upholstery, but that turned out to be a
total non-issue.
I'm about to call John Degonia and get the ball rolling. Hopefully, I'll
have the aircraft before a wholelot of time has passed. See you in the air!
--
Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com
http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!)
AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (getting ready to order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george may <gfmjr_20(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
> "I'm getting ready to order a Zodiac XLi from AMD, and it was suggested t
hat"
Hi Jay--
Welcome to the list. There is a vast array of knowledge of things Zenith
here. I'm etc sure any questions you might have on plane flight characteris
tics or performance can be answered, alsong with engine issues etc.
George May
601XL 912s
> >
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
08
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
Welcome to the list Jay,
Good move being on the list. There's always something that needs
adjusting, replacement or adding,
even with a new plane. You'll make it your own with an LRI or GPS etc.
Lots of archives and people
to assist you in that latest info or solutions. Just don't hesitate to ask.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jay Maynard wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to order a Zodiac XLi from AMD, and it was suggested that
> I join this list. I know that it's mainly oriented to homebuilding, but I
> hope to get some useful insight into the aircraft and flying it. I'd dearly
> love to build my own. The reality is that I don't have anything close to the
> time needed to devote to such a project.
>
> I just got a BFR in Dragonfly Aviation's Zodiac. It took me one whole flight
> and several really terrible arrivals (I won't call them landings) to realize
> that I can't fly it the same way I'd fly a 172 or Tiger. The second flight
> was a lot better, and I'm now convinced that I can fly the aircraft well,
> given sufficient practice. That was my main concern; a secondary concern was
> the seating, boththe positionand the upholstery, but that turned out to be a
> total non-issue.
>
> I'm about to call John Degonia and get the ball rolling. Hopefully, I'll
> have the aircraft before a wholelot of time has passed. See you in the air!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dragon Season |
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twalker(at)cableone.net> |
I really like the sound of that Suzuki engine.... Quite a Hummer!
Tommy
rroberts wrote:
> Hmmmm, Dragon Season must have opened in Alabama! Purple Dragon Season:
>
> http://www.youtube.com:80/results?search_query=n701rr&search_type
--------
Tommy Walker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166611#166611
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: EXP BUS MOUNTING TRAY |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
I've decided to not use the EXP Bus I purchased and before I go through the hassle
of sending it back to ACS I'll offer it to you guys.
ACS price is $424 I'll let it go for $400 and I'll ship it anywhere in the 48 states.
I've had it out of the box to look at it but it has never been installed.
Here is the ACS page on it for more info.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/expbus.php
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166634#166634
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | IFLYSMODEL(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: EXP BUS MOUNTING TRAY |
Hey Gig: I will take your offer on the EXP BUS MOUNTING TRAY.
Lynn Nelsen
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
| From: | "swater6" <waters.scott(at)comcast.net> |
Jay,
Welcome! I'm glad to hear that there will be a Zodiac flying in Minnesota! I
hope I see you around.
I'm curious to hear what the main challenges you faced were transitioning from
a 172 to the Zodiac. Other than getting the feel of a new plane, what things
were hardest to get used to? What surprised you?
Always interesting to here what that first experience was like.
Scott
--------
601 XL kit N596SW reserved
Tail, control surfaces and both wings complete. Now working on fuselage
www.scottwaters.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166645#166645
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dragon Season |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
Too cool Rick!
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166647#166647
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
| From: | "kmccune" <kmccune(at)somtel.net> |
Hey welcome to the list. I live in western WI and drive through Fairmont regularly
for work.
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166648#166648
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New to the list |
| From: | "jmaynard" <jmaynard(at)conmicro.com> |
swater6 wrote:
> Welcome! I'm glad to hear that there will be a Zodiac flying in Minnesota!
I hope I see you around.
Actually, mine will be the second AMD Zodiac in Minnesota. A guy in Crookston got
the first one. He's also worked with the factory to develop a cold weather
kit for the Zodiac: mainly improved cabin sealing, but also cooling inlet restrictors.
I'll have that on my aircraft, as well as a Tanis heater.
> I'm curious to hear what the main challenges you faced were transitioning from
a 172 to the Zodiac. Other than getting the feel of a new plane, what things
were hardest to get used to? What surprised you?
The Zodiac's control feel was significantly lighter than I was used to. I've got
about 165 hours in 172s, PA-28s, and AA-5Bs, and they all feel about the same
- and completely unlike the Zodiac. It took a suggestion from Gig on Usenet
to get me straightened out. The first time, I was using my hand and arm to fly,
as I did in other aircraft, and never really had control of the aircraft. The
second time, I planted the side of my left hand firmly on my thigh and only
used the thumb and forefinger on the base of the grip to fly, and the CFI's comment
was that I finally had command of the aircraft. He was right, too. The one
acceptable landing I made (out of 8 plus one go-around from a landing I couldn't
rescue) was the first one I made the second day, and it was at least rolled
on instead of dropped in from several feet. I have to say the Zodiac's gear
has to be the stoutest I've ever seen, considering the abuse I gave it and the
CFI's reaction to that. ("As long as you put it on the mains first, you won't
break anything.") That's a good thing, but I really hope I learn to do better
before I tear up my own plane! :-)
I'm going to have to spend some time at altitude figuring out power settings and
attitudes to achieve particular speeds and climb/descent rates. I still don't
have a good handle on how to get that perfect 3 degree glide at 60 KIAS down
final, and my command of the aircraft isn't that good yet. I think I'll need
to carry some power on final at 60 knots with half flaps, which is what the CFI
recommended I use. I'm also still overcontrolling a bit, though not as horribly
as I did that first day. I'm not sure how different the AMD version will be,
either in control feel or power/attitude/picture over the nose, from the aircraft
I flew (Dragonfly Aviation's 601XL with the Sparrowhawk O-235). I suspect
it won't make much difference, but won't know till I fly it. I was quoted a
May 10 delivery date by the sales rep I'm dealing with. So far, I've got 3 hours
in the Zodiac; I'll probably need several more before I'll feel comfortable
with it.
As I said in my Usenet posting where I laid out my decision process between the
Zodiac and the other SLSA I was considering, the Tecnam Sierra: Do not fly the
Zodiac without a good, thorough checkout by a CFI who's familiar with the aircraft
and especially transitioning to it from the average light single. It will
save you endless frustration and grief.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166651#166651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make
sure I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my
belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)ATT.NET> |
Hi Bill,
I'm not completely sure, but I don't think you can get mil. spec.
connectors like that.
I like to use the automotive grade connectors with the softer plastic
molded parts that aren't as interested in breaking as the hard
plastic (cheap) ones. I also prefer the spade type connectors to the
round ones like you show in your picture. The spade connectors have
a flat bar on the male end and two rolled spring contactors on the
female end. While these may not be mil. spec. they do a great job of
making and holding a connection.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 05:27 PM 2/27/2008, you wrote:
>All-
> Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in
> the picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to
> make sure I'm using the best.
> No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily
> service my belly strobe.
> Not my best photography!
> Thanks.
>Bill Naumuk
>Townville, Pa.
>HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
Paul-
It's a matter of being able to get the connector through the largest
mounting hole of the light, if need be. That's why I can't use a spade
connector.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Where?
Hi Bill,
I'm not completely sure, but I don't think you can get mil. spec.
connectors like that.
I like to use the automotive grade connectors with the softer plastic
molded parts that aren't as interested in breaking as the hard plastic
(cheap) ones. I also prefer the spade type connectors to the round ones
like you show in your picture. The spade connectors have a flat bar on
the male end and two rolled spring contactors on the female end. While
these may not be mil. spec. they do a great job of making and holding a
connection.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 05:27 PM 2/27/2008, you wrote:
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make
sure I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service
my belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
I looked on B&C, Stein Air and Terminal Town and don't see that specific
"barrel style" connector. But if you are willing to use another style they
have them:
www.terminaltown.com
www.steinair.com
www.bandc.biz/parts.html
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 6:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Where?
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make sure
I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my
belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
| From: | "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Q. for those out flying their XL's.
With the large elevator trim tab, if it was deflected full one way up or down,
is it still controllable? I am fitting the Ray Allen Trim system and thinking
about if one switches sticks.
I may fit a CB to the trim power line and pull it to stop the trim run away if
required, rather than hide it with a fuse. What do others think?
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166695#166695
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
The interlocking knife switch type would probably work for you and they will not
separate under a tension load.
Bill Naumuk wrote: Paul-
It's a matter of being able to get the connector through the largest mounting
hole of the light, if need be. That's why I can't use a spade connector.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Where?
Hi Bill,
I'm not completely sure, but I don't think you can get mil. spec. connectors
like that.
I like to use the automotive grade connectors with the softer plastic molded
parts that aren't as interested in breaking as the hard plastic (cheap) ones.
I also prefer the spade type connectors to the round ones like you show
in your picture. The spade connectors have a flat bar on the male end and
two rolled spring contactors on the female end. While these may not be mil.
spec. they do a great job of making and holding a connection.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 05:27 PM 2/27/2008, you wrote:
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the picture?
These came from the local hardware store and I want to make sure I'm
using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my belly
strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
they are called knife splices
http://www.gyroplanepassion.com/AircraftElectricalTerminalConnectors.html
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c253/P130.pdf
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=racequiet&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=175121486&Count2=92261910&ProductID=18994&Target=products.asp
http://www.gulf-coast-avionics.com/detail/8149/Accessories/%5F/PIDG%5FSplice/
As you see, the last two links are the exact same product - the one sold by the
aircraft outfit is double the price...
As previously stated on the list, silicone dielectric grease is advised for these
connectors without noble plated contacting surfaces.
Bill Naumuk wrote: Paul-
It's a matter of being able to get the connector through the largest mounting
hole of the light, if need be. That's why I can't use a spade connector.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Where?
Hi Bill,
I'm not completely sure, but I don't think you can get mil. spec. connectors
like that.
I like to use the automotive grade connectors with the softer plastic molded
parts that aren't as interested in breaking as the hard plastic (cheap) ones.
I also prefer the spade type connectors to the round ones like you show
in your picture. The spade connectors have a flat bar on the male end and
two rolled spring contactors on the female end. While these may not be mil.
spec. they do a great job of making and holding a connection.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 05:27 PM 2/27/2008, you wrote:
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the picture?
These came from the local hardware store and I want to make sure I'm
using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my belly
strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
Chris,
That is what I did. I have few CB's and trim is one of them for the very reason
that I could pull it if desired.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail & wings completed and
fueslage pretty well done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166700#166700
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "haven" <haven1950(at)yahoo.com> |
If you are going to use automotive type connectors, at least get marine grade.
They are for the harsh marine conditions. And you can always apply some di-electric
grease.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166703#166703
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Ray" <davgray(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
Chris
I have the full span left side elevator trim tab. When I get ham handed I
sometimes inadvertently activate the trim switches on the top of the control
stick. It will get your attention but it is still controllable. Same for
the aileron trim.
I have been at full deflection. The first time it happened it took 10
seconds to diagnose what was causing it.
At normal flight speed it has the most authority. At pattern speeds I need
to increase the trim setting on the aileron.
Time for full deflection is about 3 seconds. By the time you notice it, it
will be at full deployment so pulling a fuse wouldn't help. It will take
power to reverse the setting. I think if it happened it would be an
irritation. The controls are normally very light.
Gary Ray 601XL, 64 hrs TT
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:30 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: what if? elevator trim tab runaway
>
> Q. for those out flying their XL's.
>
> With the large elevator trim tab, if it was deflected full one way up or
down, is it still controllable? I am fitting the Ray Allen Trim system and
thinking about if one switches sticks.
>
> I may fit a CB to the trim power line and pull it to stop the trim run
away if required, rather than hide it with a fuse. What do others think?
> Chris
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166695#166695
>
>
> --
8:45 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Hays <alhays(at)hickoryhillfarmsheep.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
Listers,
FWTW, it seems to me that what might be no more than an irritation
under most conditions could easily become one distraction too many in
a busy airport environment or when dealing with other more
challenging situations. I'm putting in an order for the "Safety-
Trim" system from TCW to use with Ray Allen servos in my ZenVair
601XL (unfinished). Still haven't heard about anyone else having used
it other than Tim Olson's RV-10. TCW's website is: www.tcwtech.com
Al
On Feb 28, 2008, at 7:11 AM, Gary Ray wrote:
>
> Chris
>
> I have the full span left side elevator trim tab. When I get ham
> handed I
> sometimes inadvertently activate the trim switches on the top of
> the control
> stick. It will get your attention but it is still controllable.
> Same for
> the aileron trim.
> I have been at full deflection. The first time it happened it took 10
> seconds to diagnose what was causing it.
> At normal flight speed it has the most authority. At pattern
> speeds I need
> to increase the trim setting on the aileron.
>
> Time for full deflection is about 3 seconds. By the time you
> notice it, it
> will be at full deployment so pulling a fuse wouldn't help. It
> will take
> power to reverse the setting. I think if it happened it would be an
> irritation. The controls are normally very light.
>
> Gary Ray 601XL, 64 hrs TT
> davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:30 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: what if? elevator trim tab runaway
>
>
>
>>
>> Q. for those out flying their XL's.
>>
>> With the large elevator trim tab, if it was deflected full one way
>> up or
> down, is it still controllable? I am fitting the Ray Allen Trim
> system and
> thinking about if one switches sticks.
>>
>> I may fit a CB to the trim power line and pull it to stop the trim
>> run
> away if required, rather than hide it with a fuse. What do others
> think?
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166695#166695
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
> 8:45 PM
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maarten Versteeg <maarten.versteeg(at)swri.org> |
| Subject: | Aileron integration |
Hello List,
I am nearing completion of my first wing. My question is when
have you integrated the aileron with the wing. I have already
drilled the flap and aileron to the wing but when should
these be riveted in place. The guide describes holding off on
the flaps till mounting the wings to the plane, but for the
aileron it might be easy to get the bell crank setup and the
trim servo wires attached.
Any advise ?
Maarten
601XL plans building wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Thatcher" <s_thatcher(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 02/27/08 |
Welcome to the list Jay! I just got my Zodiac registered in December and it
took the combined input of most of the people on this list to get me out of
the jams I'd gotten myself into. Fortunately, you won't experience the
frustration of screwing up but for other issues such as avionics,
autopilots, and various mounting solutions, there is always someone here who
has done that or been there.
Again Congratulations and thanks for the info on on to fly this darn thing!
Scott Thatcher, Palm Beach Gardens, FL
601XL with Corvair, Registered as E-LSA
N601EL
From: Jay Maynard <jmaynard(at)conmicro.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: New to the list
I'm getting ready to order a Zodiac XLi from AMD, and it was suggested that
I join this list. I know that it's mainly oriented to homebuilding, but I
hope to get some useful insight into the aircraft and flying it. I'd dearly
love to build my own. The reality is that I don't have anything close to the
time needed to devote to such a project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Flick" <rflick(at)ovalinternet.net> |
i need seat belts and cowl and eng mt for subaru into 601 hds. thanks
bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601 XL Empty Weight |
| From: | "dalemed" <dalemed(at)gmail.com> |
What can I expect the empty weight of my 601 XL will be when its done - less the
weight of the engine and paint? Assume a stock build with minimal instruments
and minimal corrosion proofing.
Thanks for info!
--------
Dale
Flying Cessna 170B
Building Zenith 601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166733#166733
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron integration |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
I riveted them when I finished the wing long ago. I also installed and ran the
trim before I closed up the wing so they are now tangling at the inboard end of
the wing with all the other wires.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166735#166735
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: EXP BUS MOUNTING TRAY |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
I'm going with switches, circuit breakers and fuses. The main reason is because
I was going to have to put several in anyway I just decided it would be not that
much more work to do all of them.
zenith601xl(at)gmail.com wrote:
> What alternative did you choose and why?
> Dennis Shoup
>
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166741#166741
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
| From: | "rhodes1" <rhodes1(at)copper.net> |
Hello
I was thinking about the same thing. What would the weight [approx] be with a 0200
engine installed?
Thanks Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166748#166748
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
Well that's what AMD puts in the S-LSA so looking at their specs 770 Lbs.
http://www.newplane.com/amd/amd/601_SLSA/specification.html
rhodes1 wrote:
> Hello
> I was thinking about the same thing. What would the weight [approx] be with a
0200 engine installed?
> Thanks Don
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166750#166750
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip" <madriver(at)wildblue.net> |
Asked in a previous post what cable (s) were used in the the CH 701
921S engine installation video. Anybody have any clues? Thinking of
using two throttle cables - any problem with the added internal sliding
friction with two cables? What is the attachment from cable core to
throttle rod used in the installation - froze the video and it looks
like a NAPA HELP type item. What say you guys
Phil Smith
CH-701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Aho <acorn1800(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH that
is building or flying this critter?
Thanks,
Wayne
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)ATT.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
Hi Dave,
I am currently doing the same task. I found the cable end adjusters
included in the FWF from UsJabiru to be completely unusable. The
distance from the carburetor to the nose gear was completely used up
by these parts before inserting the cable.
I decided to make new cable end fittings on my metal lathe. The new
parts extend only one inch from the carburetor bracket. This made it
possible to route the cable around the nose gear column and still get
it to the carburetor. I wound up making three of these fittings
since I have dual throttles. Two were used on the carburetor, and
one on the center cable for the dual throttle.
If you need the dimensions for these parts, I can send you a copy of
my little pencil drawing. Anyone with a lathe and some round brass
bar could make them in less than one hour each. You also will need a
thread forming die. If you don't have a lathe, perhaps you know
someone who does or can use a local machine shop's services. I
suppose you could buy the parts somewhere, but I have no idea where
to look for them. I tried McMaster-Carr and failed miserably.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage - hooking up engine
At 08:13 AM 2/26/2008, you wrote:
>I am installing the Jabiru 3300 on the 601XL and have got to the
>point of connecting up the throttle and choke cables.
>
>My problem is that the carb. is almost directly in front of the nose
>leg, so the cables have to go through a couple of quite sharp bends.
>
>I would be very interested to hear how others have routed their cables.
>
>Dave Johnson.
>
>601XL in the UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)ATT.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
Hi Don,
The AMD web site shows 770 pounds empty weight for the factory built
XL. I believe this model includes the Continental O-200.
My informal examination of many LSA specs seems to indicate using an
O-200 or O-235 adds around 100 pounds to your empty weight compared
to a Rotax or Jabiru installation.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:35 AM 2/28/2008, you wrote:
>Hello
>I was thinking about the same thing. What would the weight [approx]
>be with a 0200 engine installed?
>Thanks Don
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables |
Hello Phil,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Every plane is equipped a
little differently and we had to go back to the catalogs to answer your
questions. All the information was there:
1. Throttle Cables used were A 820 Friction Lock Control (3ft.)
#05-09436
2. Cable Safe #05-16250 used through firewall.
3. Cable holder at throttle rod from Kragen Auto - or you could use a
Cable end "B" nut found in the Spruce Catalog. Part # 05-16210.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Michael Heintz
Quality Sport Planes, LLC
www.qualitysportplanes.com
Representing Zenith Aircraft kits in the West
----- Original Message -----
From: Philip
To: Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:25 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Throttle Cables
Asked in a previous post what cable (s) were used in the the CH 701
921S engine installation video. Anybody have any clues? Thinking of
using two throttle cables - any problem with the added internal sliding
friction with two cables? What is the attachment from cable core to
throttle rod used in the installation - froze the video and it looks
like a NAPA HELP type item. What say you guys
Phil Smith
CH-701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
I am installing the Continental O-200 in my 601 XL, the people at Teledyne
Mattituck told me the O-200 is 215 pounds with accessories, the Jabiru is
listed at 180 with accessories.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz" <psm(at)att.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 601 XL Empty Weight
>
> Hi Don,
>
> The AMD web site shows 770 pounds empty weight for the factory built XL.
> I believe this model includes the Continental O-200.
>
> My informal examination of many LSA specs seems to indicate using an O-200
> or O-235 adds around 100 pounds to your empty weight compared to a Rotax
> or Jabiru installation.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
>
> At 08:35 AM 2/28/2008, you wrote:
>
>>Hello
>>I was thinking about the same thing. What would the weight [approx] be
>>with a 0200 engine installed?
>>Thanks Don
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Valentine" <mgvalentine(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
Wayne -
I am in Contoocook - tail and wings done, fuse in progress.
Ernie is in Merrimack. Sorry Ernie, I can't remember your last name!!
Ernie is probably about to pass me in progress. He will likely chime in
soon.
Roger Pritchard is in Nashua - Plane and Corvair engine pretty much done -
putting on wings somewhere.
George May is done and flying in Kingston (plane in Elliot, ME)
Everyone should be viewable through the web site John Read provided. Email
or call me directly for more info.
Cheers, Michael Valentine
603-746-2166
On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Wayne Aho wrote:
> I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH
> that is building or flying this critter?
>
> Thanks,
> Wayne
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george may <gfmjr_20(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
Wayne--
I see Mike already replied with some. In addition There is another couple
under construction in Moultonboro, and Ossipee. If you'd like a ride or cl
oser inspection of a completed one ,give me a call and we can arrange somet
hing
George May
601XL 912s
Kingston NH
603-642-8694
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:55:16 -0500From: mgvalentine(at)gmail.comTo: zenith-
list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: Zenith-List: Any Zodiac Builders near SE New
HampshireWayne - I am in Contoocook - tail and wings done, fuse in progres
s.Ernie is in Merrimack. Sorry Ernie, I can't remember your last name!! E
rnie is probably about to pass me in progress. He will likely chime in soo
n.Roger Pritchard is in Nashua - Plane and Corvair engine pretty much done
- putting on wings somewhere.George May is done and flying in Kingston (pla
ne in Elliot, ME)Everyone should be viewable through the web site John Read
provided. Email or call me directly for more info.Cheers, Michael Valenti
ne603-746-2166
On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Wayne Aho wrote:
I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH t
hat is building or flying this critter?
Thanks,
Wayne
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
08
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
| From: | "Dave Nixon" <adnasap(at)bellsouth.net> |
I ran into the same problem and talked with Mark at Jabiru. We discussed at length
and then I just made an extension bracket that moved the throttle cable to
the OUTSIDE of the carbie connection point instead of the inside as directed
by Jabiru. It worked great! There was no bend in the throttle cable since it
lined up directly to the carb while sliding along side the nose gear bracket.
It is now smooth and effortless. If I can help, I can send the same pictures that
I sent Mark for his edification. But the Choke cable is somewhat 'S' bent
so I might have to make one for that also. I will know in the next couple of days.
Wish me luck.
Dave Nixon
CH 601 XL 3300 (N 107 R)
99% done with 5% to go.
Going to Weight and Balance in the next day or two
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166801#166801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry H <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
Hey George.....could yah fly up to Michigan and give me a ride too? LOL......just
kidding......
Larry H
george may wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE:
10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } Wayne--
I see Mike already replied with some. In addition There is another couple under
construction in Moultonboro, and Ossipee. If you'd like a ride or closer inspection
of a completed one ,give me a call and we can arrange something
George May
601XL 912s
Kingston NH
603-642-8694
---------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 14:55:16 -0500
From: mgvalentine(at)gmail.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire
Wayne -
I am in Contoocook - tail and wings done, fuse in progress.
Ernie is in Merrimack. Sorry Ernie, I can't remember your last name!! Ernie is
probably about to pass me in progress. He will likely chime in soon.
Roger Pritchard is in Nashua - Plane and Corvair engine pretty much done - putting
on wings somewhere.
George May is done and flying in Kingston (plane in Elliot, ME)
Everyone should be viewable through the web site John Read provided. Email or
call me directly for more info.
Cheers, Michael Valentine
603-746-2166
On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Wayne Aho wrote:
I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH that
is building or flying this critter?
Thanks,
Wayne
arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
---------------------------------
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. Get it now!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
Were those weight wet or dry? How much oil does the Jab hold? (6+lb/gallon)
I am installing the Continental O-200 in my 601 XL, the people at Teledyne
Mattituck told me the O-200 is 215 pounds with accessories, the Jabiru is
listed at 180 with accessories.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz"
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 601 XL Empty Weight
>
> Hi Don,
>
> The AMD web site shows 770 pounds empty weight for the factory built XL.
> I believe this model includes the Continental O-200.
>
> My informal examination of many LSA specs seems to indicate using an O-200
> or O-235 adds around 100 pounds to your empty weight compared to a Rotax
> or Jabiru installation.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
>
> At 08:35 AM 2/28/2008, you wrote:
>
>>Hello
>>I was thinking about the same thing. What would the weight [approx] be
>>with a 0200 engine installed?
>>Thanks Don
>>
>>
>
>
>
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am I crazy
for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the guidance of
an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as well, and I really love
the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime Continental for about 8,000
and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab unfortunately will knock your
socks of at 18000 these days. Aside from the $ I would like to gain the experience
and knowledge from rebuilding my own engine. I am literally shocked that
I can find a thousand times more information on how to convert your corvair
to an aircraft engine than simply how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200.
Any sources for information?
Here is my logic:
I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuild. I believe a Corvair conversion to be
slightly less reliable than a Continental or Lycosaur. Corvair builders please
dont consider this and insult as I will openly acknowledge that I am a newbie.
My beliefs are just that... The beliefs of a newbie.
If I am contemplating my own auto conversion, then why shouldn't I consider an
o-200 overhaul myself?
Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's technology,
using some common sense, having patience and the right tools with some guidance
and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should be accomplishable by anybody
that would also be a candidate for a corvair rebuild.
In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure would like someone with more
experience than I to perform inspections on the darn thing.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166860#166860
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
I was wrestling with the same problem, Continental or Lycoming, about 2 years ago.
Bought the WW Corvair manual (flycorvair.com) then made a trip to SnF to
meet and talk to him. Spent a day at his shop also and that was all it took to
convince me that the Corvair engine would meet my needs. I fly VFR and smooth
air for the most part so it should work well and save me some serious money.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166868#166868
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron integration |
| From: | "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thats what Cleco's are for.
Drill and pin the ailerons, put in the cables, belcrank and trim wire, remove and
store.
Chris..
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166882#166882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Johnson" <david_a_g_johnson(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru ram-air ducts |
I am at the point of installing the ram-air ducts on my Jabiru 3300. The
right-hand duct went on without too many problems (that couldn't be
solved with some colourful cussing!).
The left-hand duct is causing headaches. because of the offset of the
cylinders, the rear cylinder on the left is very close to the engine
mounting plate and I cannot see how I can get the duct in.
On the right, the duct fits between the 5th. and 6th. fins (counting out
from the crankcase). There's no way I can get the left duct that close.
The fibreglass is recessed to clear the engine mount, but only once it
is in place!
Am I being dumb? (don't answer that!). How did other Jab. users solve
the problem?
Hoping someone can help (they always have in the past!)
Dave Johnson
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Pritchard <rogers_pritchard(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
Wayne,
I kit built an XL in a one car garage in Nashua and am now rigging the ailerons
and flaps at
my brother in laws business in Hooksett. Feel free to call me at 496-7542 about
the
building process or if you want to see it.
Roger
Wayne Aho wrote:
I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH that
is building or flying this critter?
Thanks,
Wayne
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru ram-air ducts |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
Dave,
I remember having to play with this left duct a little bit, but it was not a show-stopper,
at least on my engine. Once I found which fins the aft part seemed
to like the best, I put a spot of magic marker on the first visible fin so
I can put it back the next time. There was no one spot that worked perfectly.
I still have to push and shove a bit. If it was any worse, as it appears in
your case, I guess I would try to heat the duct and re-form it a bit.
I do not remember if it made the Homebuilthelp.com video or not, but Mark at Jabiru
USA suggested reinforcing the holes in the ducts that you will be drilling
for the valve cover cap screws. I made a piece small aluminum sheet and JB
weld epoxied it in place.
I have not run yet so this is all theory to me at this point..
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail & wings completed and
fueslage pretty well done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166903#166903
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Pritchard <rogers_pritchard(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Zodiac Builders near SE New Hampshire |
Wayne,
I built most of my Zenvair 601XL in a single car garage in Nashua and am now
rigging the
ailerons and flaps at my wife and brother-in-laws business in Hooksett. Call
me 406-7542
if you want to talk or see it.
Roger
Wayne Aho wrote:
I am considering building a Zodiac 601XL. Is there anyone near Keene, NH that
is building or flying this critter?
Thanks,
Wayne
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
I bought a run out O-200 (With logbooks) from Wentworth for $2,800 with a
replacement guarantee for any major component that cannot be returned to
service. I was also given the name of a reputable company that rebuilds
cylinders, the cost for best case was $325.00 each and the worst case of
$600.00 each. The bottom end of the O-200 has a very good reputation for
strength and reliability, check out a photo of the split case on the
internet and you will see it has a very large front bearing. Parts, repair
manuals, and videos showing how to rebuild the O-200 are readily available.
I was told by Aircraft mechanics it is a very simple engine to rebuild
compared to the auto engines I have rebuilt. I was going to rebuild it
myself but I met a mechanic at the EAA Chapter I belong to and he agreed to
work with me for a reasonable price, of course I will be doing the grunt
work and the engine will remain certified.
If one prefers new, the bottom end kit from Continental is $932.18, the
total for 4 new cylinders in the new style comes to $4068.62 with no
exchange.
Originally I was going with Corvair but my family made it clear they would
not fly with me unless I put a Continental or Lycoming in it, that is the
reason for my change of heart.
I hope that helps:
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
> Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am
> I crazy for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the
> guidance of an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as well, and
> I really love the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime Continental
> for about 8,000 and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab
> unfortunately will knock your socks of at 18000 these days. Aside from
> the $ I would like to gain the experience and knowledge from rebuilding
> my own engine. I am literally shocked that I can find a thousand times
> more information on how to convert your corvair to an aircraft engine than
> simply how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200. Any sources for
> information?
>
> Here is my logic:
>
> I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuild. I believe a Corvair conversion
> to be slightly less reliable than a Continental or Lycosaur. Corvair
> builders please dont consider this and insult as I will openly acknowledge
> that I am a newbie. My beliefs are just that... The beliefs of a newbie.
>
> If I am contemplating my own auto conversion, then why shouldn't I
> consider an o-200 overhaul myself?
>
> Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's
> technology, using some common sense, having patience and the right tools
> with some guidance and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should be
> accomplishable by anybody that would also be a candidate for a corvair
> rebuild.
>
> In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure would like someone
> with more experience than I to perform inspections on the darn thing.
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166860#166860
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Saniewski <tski0403(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
Hi Dave, I did notice that Zenith does not have the empty weight of the 0-200,
I am trying to find the best engine to useful load, the Jab just cost to much,
and would like to know the empty weight on yours when it is installed. Thanks
Tom
David Downey wrote: Were those weight wet or dry? How
much oil does the Jab hold? (6+lb/gallon)
I am installing the Continental O-200 in my 601 XL, the people at Teledyne
Mattituck told me the O-200 is 215 pounds with accessories, the Jabiru is
listed at 180 with accessories.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mulwitz"
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 601 XL Empty Weight
>
> Hi Don,
>
> The AMD web site shows 770 pounds empty weight for the factory built XL.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
| From: | "Dave Nixon" <adnasap(at)bellsouth.net> |
I tried to post pix without any success. Sorry! If you want, I can send them to
you directly via your e-mail address.
Dave Nixon
CH 601 XL jabiru 3300
Couple of man hours left to W&B and liftoff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166942#166942
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing choke and throttle cables |
Send them to the Matronics photoshare. Or send them to me and I'll send
them. Attachments sent to the list (even if they do get through) don't
persist very long in the archived e-mail messages.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Nixon
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 1:48 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Routing choke and throttle cables
I tried to post pix without any success. Sorry! If you want, I can send them
to you directly via your e-mail address.
Dave Nixon
CH 601 XL jabiru 3300
Couple of man hours left to W&B and liftoff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166942#166942
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Painting Experience |
I ll say now that I m having a "happy ending" but...............
Here is how my past week went with the AcryGlo Aircraft paint.
AcryGlo is the best paint I ve ever used. It should be because three
gallons set me back $966.00.
I like polished aluminum airplanes. My friends have polished aircraft
and man their beautiful.
But, I m lazy and didnt want to do the steps required to make my 601
shine..
So. I opted to paint... It all started out as a disaster.
I cleaned the aluminum with "aluma prep.
Applied Alodine to get that golden brown/etched base.
I applied epoxy two part metal primer then waited two weeks for the
cure.
Starting with the rudder, I laid it down on my table in the spray booth
I scuffed the primmer to have excellent "bite" for the base coats.
Vaccuumed all the dust and used tack cloths..
I "fogged on three coats and everything looked super.
After the perfect paint job dried, I flipped the rudder over..
Proceeded to do the same steps as on the first side.
Holy Smolly. Pin holes up the Kazoo!.
I bet I had one thousand small holes in the paint...
Thinking I d let it dry and then sand,,, but I m lazy and used reducer
to wipe off the mess...
I changed paint guns. I was using a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight but
went back to my ol trusty "standard" spray gun...
This time I reduced the paint with reducer by 25%.
Well to make this short....Its working out very nice. Not totally
professional but close...
Its much more work than I thought it would be to paint.... I might,
should have polished and then gone flyin...
I guess thats how we learn, aint it ??
SW
..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Kitplanes Article |
I have an article in the April Kitplanes magazine which some of you
might find interesting.
Chuck D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
All-
There has to be a source for these plugs. The wing position lights
that I bought used from Wentworth's that came off a '50s Bonanza has
them. You can tell everything's original.
Good enough for Beech, good enough for me.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Where?
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make
sure I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my
belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry H <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Experience |
Hey Steve,
My brother in law owns an RV painting shop. They paint the really expensive
units ($500,000 and up). He was asking me if I want to paint my XL or polish
it out. I told him I really liked the polished look as you do, but I didn't want
to have to keep buffing and buffing to keep it up. He told me he would help
me buff it out and then he would put on several layers of "clear coat" for
me. He said that it locks up the aluminum and will never need polishing again.
I LIKE that idea! I'm still not sure if I want to paint color or not. Maybe
a mixture of both. When the time comes, my brother in law is going to sketch
out some really great looking paint schemes for me. He does really great work.
He painted Randy Travis's motorhome for him (I think it was him). It looked
great - He does a lot of airbrush work too. He's willing to do all of it
for me "just for fun".......he must like me or something.
Larry
steve wrote:
I ll say now that I m having a "happy ending" but...............
Here is how my past week went with the AcryGlo Aircraft paint.
AcryGlo is the best paint I ve ever used. It should be because three gallons
set me back $966.00.
I like polished aluminum airplanes. My friends have polished aircraft and man
their beautiful.
But, I m lazy and didnt want to do the steps required to make my 601 shine..
So. I opted to paint... It all started out as a disaster.
I cleaned the aluminum with "aluma prep.
Applied Alodine to get that golden brown/etched base.
I applied epoxy two part metal primer then waited two weeks for the cure.
Starting with the rudder, I laid it down on my table in the spray booth
I scuffed the primmer to have excellent "bite" for the base coats. Vaccuumed
all the dust and used tack cloths..
I "fogged on three coats and everything looked super.
After the perfect paint job dried, I flipped the rudder over..
Proceeded to do the same steps as on the first side.
Holy Smolly. Pin holes up the Kazoo!.
I bet I had one thousand small holes in the paint...
Thinking I d let it dry and then sand,,, but I m lazy and used reducer to wipe
off the mess...
I changed paint guns. I was using a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight but went back
to my ol trusty "standard" spray gun...
This time I reduced the paint with reducer by 25%.
Well to make this short....Its working out very nice. Not totally professional
but close...
Its much more work than I thought it would be to paint.... I might, should
have polished and then gone flyin...
I guess thats how we learn, aint it ??
SW
..
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The RAC
instructions advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that can be
shut off if the problem arises. That's what I did as well.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting Experience |
| From: | "hansriet" <hansinla(at)mac.com> |
Does your wife have an unmarried sister by any chance?
Hanss
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166996#166996
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gpjann1(at)netzero.net" <gpjann1(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
The main difference between a Corvair and O-200 are:
=2E. starter, alternator, fuel pump
=2E. intake manifold
=2E. weight
_____________________________________________________________
Click now to find a divorce attorney near you!
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ZtYPxvW4vhgXmzRYXCX5BEderKl5I/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Painting Experience |
Kitplanes did an article on polishing in November last year ("Dare To Be
Bare"). This is what it had to say on coatings:
"When the Nuvite factory was asked about protective coatings, the
recommendation was, "Use nothing." There are two reasons for this. Consider
that you just worked like crazy to get a slick surface. If you were going to
paint it, you'd be roughing it up to get the paint to stick, so it hardly
makes sense to expect a coating to bond to a surface that was intentionally
made smooth. That means that when part of the top coat comes loose, as it
eventually will, it's going to look different than the adjacent area. In
turn, that means that you have to remove the remainder of the top coat,
which will entail damaging the aluminum. Go to jail. Do not pass Go.
The second reason is closely related to the first. You've seen those
super-brilliant Airstream trailers. The older ones had nothing applied, but
with time and customer demand, the factory shifted to coating. The Airstream
cognoscenti claim they can spot a newer trailer, because the coating
eventually gets cloudy and it just doesn't shine the way the older ones do."
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry H
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Painting Experience
Hey Steve,
My brother in law owns an RV painting shop. They paint the really expensive
units ($500,000 and up). He was asking me if I want to paint my XL or
polish it out. I told him I really liked the polished look as you do, but I
didn't want to have to keep buffing and buffing to keep it up. He told me
he would help me buff it out and then he would put on several layers of
"clear coat" for me. He said that it locks up the aluminum and will never
need polishing again. I LIKE that idea! I'm still not sure if I want to
paint color or not. Maybe a mixture of both. When the time comes, my
brother in law is going to sketch out some really great looking paint
schemes for me. He does really great work. He painted Randy Travis's
motorhome for him (I think it was him). It looked great - He does a lot of
airbrush work too. He's willing to do all of it for me "just for
fun".......he must like me or something.
Larry
steve wrote:
I ll say now that I m having a "happy ending" but...............
Here is how my past week went with the AcryGlo Aircraft paint.
AcryGlo is the best paint I ve ever used. It should be because three
gallons set me back $966.00.
I like polished aluminum airplanes. My friends have polished aircraft and
man their beautiful.
But, I m lazy and didnt want to do the steps required to make my 601
shine..
So. I opted to paint... It all started out as a disaster.
I cleaned the aluminum with "aluma prep.
Applied Alodine to get that golden brown/etched base.
I applied epoxy two part metal primer then waited two weeks for the cure.
Starting with the rudder, I laid it down on my table in the spray booth
I scuffed the primmer to have excellent "bite" for the base coats. Vaccuumed
all the dust and used tack cloths..
I "fogged on three coats and everything looked super.
After the perfect paint job dried, I flipped the rudder over..
Proceeded to do the same steps as on the first side.
Holy Smolly. Pin holes up the Kazoo!.
I bet I had one thousand small holes in the paint...
Thinking I d let it dry and then sand,,, but I m lazy and used reducer to
wipe off the mess...
I changed paint guns. I was using a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight but went
back to my ol trusty "standard" spray gun...
This time I reduced the paint with reducer by 25%.
Well to make this short....Its working out very nice. Not totally
professional but close...
Its much more work than I thought it would be to paint.... I might, should
have polished and then gone flyin...
I guess thats how we learn, aint it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george may <gfmjr_20(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
clyde--
You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice rebuilt ce
rtified engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer certified.
George May
601XL 912s> From: barcusc(at)comcast.net> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com> Subj
ect: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:00:15 -0600
> > I bought a run out O-200 (With logbooks) from Wentworth for $2,800 with
a > replacement guarantee for any major component that cannot be returned
to > service. I was also given the name of a reputable company that rebuild
s > cylinders, the cost for best case was $325.00 each and the worst case o
f > $600.00 each. The bottom end of the O-200 has a very good reputation fo
r > strength and reliability, check out a photo of the split case on the >
internet and you will see it has a very large front bearing. Parts, repair
> manuals, and videos showing how to rebuild the O-200 are readily availabl
e. > I was told by Aircraft mechanics it is a very simple engine to rebuild
> compared to the auto engines I have rebuilt. I was going to rebuild it >
myself but I met a mechanic at the EAA Chapter I belong to and he agreed t
o > work with me for a reasonable price, of course I will be doing the grun
t > work and the engine will remain certified.> If one prefers new, the bot
tom end kit from Continental is $932.18, the > total for 4 new cylinders in
the new style comes to $4068.62 with no > exchange.> Originally I was goin
g with Corvair but my family made it clear they would > not fly with me unl
ess I put a Continental or Lycoming in it, that is the > reason for my chan
ge of heart.> > I hope that helps:> > Clyde Barcus> 601 XL, Continental Pow
ered> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckg
roup.com>> To: > Sent: Thursday, February 28, 20
08 9:27 PM> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours> > > > --> Zenith-List mes
sage posted by: "MHerder" > >> > Alright, be p
atient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am > > I crazy for
considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the > > guidance
of an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as well, and > > I reall
y love the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime Continental > > for a
bout 8,000 and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab > > unfortunate
ly will knock your socks of at 18000 these days. Aside from > > the $ I wou
ld like to gain the experience and knowledge from rebuilding > > my own eng
ine. I am literally shocked that I can find a thousand times > > more infor
mation on how to convert your corvair to an aircraft engine than > > simply
how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200. Any sources for > > informat
ion?> >> > Here is my logic:> >> > I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuil
d. I believe a Corvair conversion > > to be slightly less reliable than a C
ontinental or Lycosaur. Corvair > > builders please dont consider this and
insult as I will openly acknowledge > > that I am a newbie. My beliefs are
just that... The beliefs of a newbie.> >> > If I am contemplating my own au
to conversion, then why shouldn't I > > consider an o-200 overhaul myself?>
>> > Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's >
> technology, using some common sense, having patience and the right tools
> > with some guidance and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should be >
> accomplishable by anybody that would also be a candidate for a corvair >
> rebuild.> >> > In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure woul
d like someone > > with more experience than I to perform inspections on th
e darn thing.> >> > --------> > One Rivet at a Time!> >> >> >> >> > Read th
is topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=1
================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Second thoughts |
| From: | "Tim Juhl" <juhl(at)avci.net> |
Take a look at radio shack
Tim Juhl
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167009#167009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry H <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Experience |
No, sorry. She is the oldest of 4 kids and the other 3 are brothers.
Larry
hansriet wrote:
Does your wife have an unmarried sister by any chance?
Hanss
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166996#166996
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bolding" <jnbolding1(at)teleshare.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
Not really John
----- Original Message -----
From: gpjann1(at)netzero.net
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 5:31 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 601 XL Empty Weight
The main difference between a Corvair and O-200 are:
.. starter, alternator, fuel pump
.. intake manifold
.. weight
_____________________________________________________________
Click now to find a divorce attorney near you!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Forward fuel and oil lines |
Hi Doug,
My kit and FWF came with "Garden variety" rubber hose. No, not
garden hose, but normal automotive fuel hose. It has a 5/8 inch
outside diameter and 1/4 inch I.D.
It is all covered with "fire sleeve" in the area forward of the
firewall. You can order that stuff from A/S.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 11:54 AM 2/29/2008, you wrote:
>What flavour of hoses are commonly being used for
>these fuel and oil line on the Zenith products? I
>have been looking at the Aeroquip hoses listed on
>Aircraft Spruce but don't want to spend $50-$100 on
>hoses and not get the right ones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: 0-200 overhaul |
| From: | <Craig.Spainhower(at)exeloncorp.com> |
I overhauled my lyc 0-235 with the help of an A&P. I purchased the overhaul manual and parts manual, check this link to e-bay for listings for the 0-200 manuals; http://motors.search.ebay.com/_eBay-Motors_W0QQsacatZ6000QQsassZbigbluebook I found rebuilding the 0-235 to be very similar to a VW engine, except for lockwiring the fasteners. Having an A&P check your work is always a good idea. There are a lot of good quality mid-time engines available as well, but be very careful, there are also a lot of improperly stored engines that have been out of service for years.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601xl 0-235 lyc
Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am I crazy
for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the guidance of
an A & P).
-----------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron integration |
| From: | "Ron Lendon" <rlendon(at)comcast.net> |
Right or wrong my left wing is riveted and hanging from the ceiling with straps.
All the plumbing and electrical is in and functioning.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167039#167039
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/aileronflap_005_959.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hangwing_003_157.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Experience |
Actually yes. But the sister is A looney toon.
Extreamly NUTS!
----- Original Message -----
From: "hansriet" <hansinla(at)mac.com>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 5:55 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Painting Experience
>
> Does your wife have an unmarried sister by any chance?
>
> Hanss
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166996#166996
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
Hi George,
I did check, the engine stands alone when it comes to certification.
However, to keep the certification I would not be able to do anything
but certain types of maintenance myself, it would require a certified
mechanic. One other point, it is possible to get 25 hours instead of the
40 hour restriction.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: george may
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
clyde--
You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice
rebuilt certified engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer
certified.
George May
601XL 912s
> From: barcusc(at)comcast.net
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:00:15 -0600
>
>
> I bought a run out O-200 (With logbooks) from Wentworth for $2,800
with a
> replacement guarantee for any major component that cannot be
returned to
> service. I was also given the name of a reputable company that
rebuilds
> cylinders, the cost for best case was $325.00 each and the worst
case of
> $600.00 each. The bottom end of the O-200 has a very good reputation
for
> strength and reliability, check out a photo of the split case on the
> internet and you will see it has a very large front bearing. Parts,
repair
> manuals, and videos showing how to rebuild the O-200 are readily
available.
> I was told by Aircraft mechanics it is a very simple engine to
rebuild
> compared to the auto engines I have rebuilt. I was going to rebuild
it
> myself but I met a mechanic at the EAA Chapter I belong to and he
agreed to
> work with me for a reasonable price, of course I will be doing the
grunt
> work and the engine will remain certified.
> If one prefers new, the bottom end kit from Continental is $932.18,
the
> total for 4 new cylinders in the new style comes to $4068.62 with no
> exchange.
> Originally I was going with Corvair but my family made it clear they
would
> not fly with me unless I put a Continental or Lycoming in it, that
is the
> reason for my change of heart.
>
> I hope that helps:
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601 XL, Continental Powered
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
>
> >
> > Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this
but.... Am
> > I crazy for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully
with the
> > guidance of an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as
well, and
> > I really love the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime
Continental
> > for about 8,000 and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab
> > unfortunately will knock your socks of at 18000 these days. Aside
from
> > the $ I would like to gain the experience and knowledge from
rebuilding
> > my own engine. I am literally shocked that I can find a thousand
times
> > more information on how to convert your corvair to an aircraft
engine than
> > simply how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200. Any sources
for
> > information?
> >
> > Here is my logic:
> >
> > I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuild. I believe a Corvair
conversion
> > to be slightly less reliable than a Continental or Lycosaur.
Corvair
> > builders please dont consider this and insult as I will openly
acknowledge
> > that I am a newbie. My beliefs are just that... The beliefs of a
newbie.
> >
> > If I am contemplating my own auto conversion, then why shouldn't I
> > consider an o-200 overhaul myself?
> >
> > Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's
> > technology, using some common sense, having patience and the right
tools
> > with some guidance and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should
be
> > accomplishable by anybody that would also be a candidate for a
corvair
> > rebuild.
> >
> > In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure would like
someone
> > with more experience than I to perform inspections on the darn
thing.
> >
> > --------
> > One Rivet at a Time!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166860#166860
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> &g=================
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your
Hotmail=AE-get your "fix". Check it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Bonds <kevinbonds(at)comcast.net> |
I was talking to one of the A&P instructors at MTSU a couple of days
ago. We were talking about the 40 hour restriction period for
homebuilts. He spoke up and said "25, if you go with a certified
engine". I had forgotten that, as well.
Clyde: We need to touch base. Haven't heard about you project in a while.
Kevin Bonds
Clyde Barcus wrote:
> Hi George,
>
> I did check, the engine stands alone when it comes to certification.
> However, to keep the certification I would not be able to do anything
> but certain types of maintenance myself, it would require a certified
> mechanic. One other point, it is possible to get 25 hours instead of
> the 40 hour restriction.
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601 XL, Continental Powered
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* george may
> *To:* zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, February 29, 2008 6:48 PM
> *Subject:* RE: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
> clyde--
> You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice
> rebuilt certified engine on your experimental plane, it is no
> longer certified.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sabrina" <chicago2paris(at)msn.com> |
Hey guys... not much homework tonight... missed you all!
E-LSAs are eligible for a 5 hour test phase as opposed to 25 or 40. Of course,
for the 5 or 25 to apply, the engine/prop combination must be a previously certified
combination, not just a certified engine.
As to the 0-200A with ECI cylinders, my IA needed a full set of 030 push rods to
meet lashing specs after an overhaul of my 1972 C150L's TCM, even with a brand
new camshaft. Is ECI doing something wrong?
As to: "You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice rebuilt certified
engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer certified." But
that does not take away from the fact that the engine was previously certified
with various prop combinations.
For an E-LSA, however, if you use a certified engine, even if the prop is not certified
or was never certified in combination with the engine, the E-LSA repairman
license would not allow you to perform a "major repair/alteration" on the
"no longer certified" engine since it was originally "produced under an FAA
approval."
Does that same limitation apply to the repairman certificate on an amateur built?
Someone mentioned that I am in this month's Sport Aviation, I did not get my copy
yet, were they nice to me? I can find the issue on line but not all articles
have clickable links.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167068#167068
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | O-200 Questions & Concerns |
Re: Continental O-200
Since my post there have been a few comments and questions on
certification or loss of certification along with other concerns. To
help eliminate confusion I have decided to put together a list of
questions and call EAA Headquarters for clarification. Because I am not
an expert on anything related to flying, I decided to join the EAA to
get good accurate information so I could lower the risk of making
expensive or dangerous mistakes. I plan on getting this done on Monday,
after discussing this with someone qualified in this area I will post
their answers. If anyone has a question (Related to this discussion)
they would like answered, email me and I will add it to the list.
Regards:
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
Unless "things" have changed.... And they do sometimes, IF your use, lets
say an 0-200 in your homebuilt, all needed is to remove the data plate.
Removing the plate puts the engine in the experimental catagory and then the
work / inspections can be done by the "homebuilder"...
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sabrina" <chicago2paris(at)msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 12:56 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
> Hey guys... not much homework tonight... missed you all!
>
> E-LSAs are eligible for a 5 hour test phase as opposed to 25 or 40. Of
> course, for the 5 or 25 to apply, the engine/prop combination must be a
> previously certified combination, not just a certified engine.
>
> As to the 0-200A with ECI cylinders, my IA needed a full set of 030 push
> rods to meet lashing specs after an overhaul of my 1972 C150L's TCM, even
> with a brand new camshaft. Is ECI doing something wrong?
>
> As to: "You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice
> rebuilt certified engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer
> certified." But that does not take away from the fact that the engine
> was previously certified with various prop combinations.
>
> For an E-LSA, however, if you use a certified engine, even if the prop is
> not certified or was never certified in combination with the engine, the
> E-LSA repairman license would not allow you to perform a "major
> repair/alteration" on the "no longer certified" engine since it was
> originally "produced under an FAA approval."
>
> Does that same limitation apply to the repairman certificate on an amateur
> built?
>
> Someone mentioned that I am in this month's Sport Aviation, I did not get
> my copy yet, were they nice to me? I can find the issue on line but not
> all articles have clickable links.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167068#167068
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
doesn't that 25 hours need to be a certified engine/prop combination? I thought
as soon as you put a different prop on it you were back to 40 hours - at least
in the olden days...
Clyde Barcus wrote: .hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px;
PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } BODY.hmmessage
{ FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } Hi George,
I did check, the engine stands alone when it comes to certification. However,
to keep the certification I would not be able to do anything but certain types
of maintenance myself, it would require a certified mechanic. One other point,
it is possible to get 25 hours instead of the 40 hour restriction.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: george may
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
clyde--
You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice rebuilt certified
engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer certified.
George May
601XL 912s
> From: barcusc(at)comcast.net
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:00:15 -0600
>
>
> I bought a run out O-200 (With logbooks) from Wentworth for $2,800 with a
> replacement guarantee for any major component that cannot be returned to
> service. I was also given the name of a reputable company that rebuilds
> cylinders, the cost for best case was $325.00 each and the worst case of
> $600.00 each. The bottom end of the O-200 has a very good reputation for
> strength and reliability, check out a photo of the split case on the
> internet and you will see it has a very large front bearing. Parts, repair
> manuals, and videos showing how to rebuild the O-200 are readily available.
> I was told by Aircraft mechanics it is a very simple engine to rebuild
> compared to the auto engines I have rebuilt. I was going to rebuild it
> myself but I met a mechanic at the EAA Chapter I belong to and he agreed to
> work with me for a reasonable price, of course I will be doing the grunt
> work and the engine will remain certified.
> If one prefers new, the bottom end kit from Continental is $932.18, the
> total for 4 new cylinders in the new style comes to $4068.62 with no
> exchange.
> Originally I was going with Corvair but my family made it clear they would
> not fly with me unless I put a Continental or Lycoming in it, that is the
> reason for my change of heart.
>
> I hope that helps:
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601 XL, Continental Powered
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
>
> >
> > Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am
> > I crazy for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the
> > guidance of an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as well, and
> > I really love the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime Continental
> > for about 8,000 and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab
> > unfortunately will knock your socks of at 18000 these days. Aside from
> > the $ I would like to gain the experience and knowledge from rebuilding
> > my own engine. I am literally shocked that I can find a thousand times
> > more information on how to convert your corvair to an aircraft engine than
> > simply how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200. Any sources for
> > information?
> >
> > Here is my logic:
> >
> > I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuild. I believe a Corvair conversion
> > to be slightly less reliable than a Continental or Lycosaur. Corvair
> > builders please dont consider this and insult as I will openly acknowledge
> > that I am a newbie. My beliefs are just that... The beliefs of a newbie.
> >
> > If I am contemplating my own auto conversion, then why shouldn't I
> > consider an o-200 overhaul myself?
> >
> > Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's
> > technology, using some common sense, having patience and the right tools
> > with some guidance and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should be
> > accomplishable by anybody that would also be a candidate for a corvair
> > rebuild.
> >
> > In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure would like someone
> > with more experience than I to perform inspections on the darn thing.
> >
> > --------
> > One Rivet at a Time!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166860#166860
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
&g=================
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail-get your
"fix". Check it out.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
| From: | "KC7HFA" <kc7hfa(at)totalusa.net> |
The weight of my 601xl, Jabiru 3300 with paint and upholstery, ready to fly less
fuel came in at 744 lbs. This includes the Dynon D180 and a Dynon D100 for
instruments, and a Garmin transponder and Icom A200 radio. I hope this helps!
--------
Ron Asbill
N601ZX - CH-601 XL
Jabiru 3300
Completed and Flying!~
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167117#167117
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
There is a QBK that was built in California and he hung an O-200. He only
had to fly 5 hrs. It may only depend on who inspects it.
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
| From: | "dalemed" <dalemed(at)gmail.com> |
Yes! Great information.
--------
Dale
Flying Cessna 170B
Building Zenith 601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167128#167128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wscribb" <wscribb(at)centurytel.net> |
Bill,
You might try West Marine, they have spade disconnects. You could then
cover this with heat shrink tubing.
Here is a tiny url <http://tiny.cc/GuWX0> http://tiny.cc/GuWX0
Hope this helps.
Bill Cribb
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 3:57 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Second thoughts
All-
There has to be a source for these plugs. The wing position lights that
I bought used from Wentworth's that came off a '50s Bonanza has them. You
can tell everything's original.
Good enough for Beech, good enough for me.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk <mailto:naumuk(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Where?
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make sure
I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my
belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net> |
I think you'll find that was under the E-LSA rules which we can no longer take
advantage of.
LHusky(at)aol.com wrote:
> There is a QBK that was built in California and he hung an O-200. He only had
to fly 5 hrs. It may only depend on who inspects it.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167146#167146
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Another day another disaster |
So, here I am in the Arizona sun with temperature in the low 80s.
I painted my fuselage today and need advise. Advise from experienced
painters...
The fuselage was primed with a two part epoxy primer (green).
Its cured for months and has been scuffed for that extra "bite".
In some spots I used Tempo primer from a can. Aircraft Spruce sells the
stuff for priming under epoxy paints so I "think" is a good product.
Well I see bleeding in some areas and wonder if its the "zinc" type
primer?
Anyway, what do I need to do ? I assume I let it all cure for a few
days and lightly sand and apply one last light coat..???...
Any thoughts ??
Thanks
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying Today - Steep Turns |
| From: | "cookwithgas" <cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.COM> |
Fellow Zen-Builders:
Today I went for a flight in my airplane with my instructor and took a photo off
the left wing while doing some steep turns at 4,500 feet. Wow that was fun!
I spent a few hours up there having a great time. Here's a picture:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Flying/3_1_2008_Turning.JPG
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167166#167166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? |
I'm experimenting with various ways to fasten the canopy to the hoops. The
factory approach uses NAS548p6-10 self-tapping screws. But they don't say
(plans or photo guide) what size hole to drill in the tubes after the #40
pilot hole through the canopy and the tube. The best information I've been
able to find (for a similar screw on McMasters Carr) says a #32 hole. Anyone
have any advice?
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? |
Craig,
I drilled w/ #30 for A4 clecos. The screws went in just fine.
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
"Craig Payne" wrote:
>
>I'm experimenting with various ways to fasten the canopy to the hoops. The
>factory approach uses NAS548p6-10 self-tapping screws. But they don't say
>(plans or photo guide) what size hole to drill in the tubes after the #40
>pilot hole through the canopy and the tube. The best information I've been
>able to find (for a similar screw on McMasters Carr) says a #32 hole. Anyone
>have any advice?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Question |
I want to order a nose wheel for my project. I found the same part number
that Zenith has, for a lot less at ACS. Now, they have 2 different size
bearings. Can anyone tell me the bearing size that comes with the kit, since
I
will probably order the axle from them.
Larry Husky
N667H (Reserved)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I have
now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so simple
in the manual...
I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to
plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable
material to work with.
I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also
make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed
by a piece of steel cable.
OK. I'm done venting.
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the following
tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with
cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or
less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like
hell. There must be a better way.
As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so
that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest when
I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think you can
truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables. If
you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed
a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Riedlinger" <cndmovn(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem. You have a bit of flashing to deal with,
but it comes off very easily with an exacto knife. Drilling created some
flash that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well.
My method was to:
1) Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.
2) Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes
3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with
a bandsaw
4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief
contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then back at it, to
bring the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing. It took me about 5
minutes per fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to size
5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.
FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead
material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the
factory just cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse
side. I did the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a
drill press.
Detail can be seen on my blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/
Hope that helps
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder
wrote:
>
> I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...
> I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so
> simple in the manual...
>
> I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
> similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
> generally a miserable material to work with.
>
> I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the
> a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be
> being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
>
> OK. I'm done venting.
>
> But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
> following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),
> dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel
> which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and
> it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
>
> As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this
> point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the
> rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't
> think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run
> the cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you
> should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you
> are drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired
> of drilling out rivets.
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>
>
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
I cut mine with a bandsaw.
George Swinford
----- Original Message -----
From: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rudder Cable farings
>
> I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...
I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so
simple in the manual...
>
> I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
generally a miserable material to work with.
>
> I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the
a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be
being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
>
> OK. I'm done venting.
>
> But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),
dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel
which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and
it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
>
> As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this
point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the
rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't
think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run
the cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you
should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you
are drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired
of drilling out rivets.
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>
>
> --
6:32 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
I don't see how a circuit breaker or fuse would help at all if you
have run-away trim. By the time you turn off the power to the trim
servo, the trim will already be crashed into one end of the travel or
the other. Turning off the power just guarantees it will stay there.
Fortunately, I have heard reports that it doesn't take super-human
strength to overcome full limit trim.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 10:59 AM 2/29/2008, you wrote:
>I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The
>RAC instructions advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that
>can be shut off if the problem arises. That's what I did as well.
>
>Dred
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
FWIW: I cut the N66 with a common hacksaw and cleaned up the cut with a
simple (Nicholson) file. No problems at all.
Jeff Davidson
....
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),
dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel
which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and
it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Nylon will usually cut beautifully with a bandsaw and a 4 tpi skip tooth blade.
Alternatively, cut a 3/8" hole in a piece of 3/4" or 1" plywood/MDF and screw
a sabresaw to the back with a coarse tooth blade mounted and sticking up through
the hole - poor man's bandsaw.
To finish, use very sharp drills/bits. I usually use a 2 or 3 flute router mounted
in a table to clean up edges - if you use sandpaper, the finshed edge will
collect dirt and be very ugly over time. Just shave the edges taking a very small
amount of material off in a pass - never plow. The burr remaing in the edge
is best removed by use of a brand new, very sharp #11 X-acto blade/handle and
trimming carefully at 45.
I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I have
now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so simple
in the manual...
I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to
plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable
material to work with.
I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also
make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed
by a piece of steel cable.
OK. I'm done venting.
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the following
tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with
cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or
less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like
hell. There must be a better way.
As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so
that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest when
I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think you can
truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables. If
you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed
a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
by the way, what usually wears out in time is the cable - not the Nylon fairlead!
The better aligned to the likely range of position of the cable in use, the
longer the cable will last!
Paul Riedlinger wrote: Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem. You
have a bit of flashing to deal with, but it comes off very easily with an exacto
knife. Drilling created some flash that needs to be cleaned up with an
exacto as well.
My method was to:
1) Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.
2) Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes
3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with a bandsaw
4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief contact
and then allowing for a quick cool down and then back at it, to bring the
N66 to the same dimension as the fairing. It took me about 5 minutes per fairing
to get the N66 cut and sanded to size
5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.
FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead material,
but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the factory just cuts
a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse side. I did the same
with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a drill press.
Detail can be seen on my blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/
Hope that helps
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder wrote:
I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I have
now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so simple
in the manual...
I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to
plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable
material to work with.
I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also
make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed
by a piece of steel cable.
OK. I'm done venting.
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the following
tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with
cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or
less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like
hell. There must be a better way.
As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so
that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest when
I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think you can
truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables. If
you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed
a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn(at)gmail.com
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Saniewski <tski0403(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
I have talked with some of the guys in my EAA group. most are RV's, and they said
that a runaway does not happen that often, but they do run it to the limit
and fly. They say it is not that difficult to control, just slow down and fly
the plane. A breaker would be good to stop the servo from driving and burning
out. Good luck Tom, saving for wings.
Paul Mulwitz wrote: I don't see how a circuit breaker or fuse would
help at all if you have run-away trim. By the time you turn off the power
to the trim servo, the trim will already be crashed into one end of the travel
or the other. Turning off the power just guarantees it will stay there.
Fortunately, I have heard reports that it doesn't take super-human strength to
overcome full limit trim.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 10:59 AM 2/29/2008, you wrote:
I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The RAC instructions
advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that can be shut off if the
problem arises. That's what I did as well.
Dred
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Band saw and belt sander. Compared to some other tasks I can think of, no
problem.
Bill
do
not archive
> I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
> similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
> generally a miserable material to work with.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)primus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Hacksaw.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Michael,
I've used a hacksaw to cut, then dressed with sandpaper. Hand tools and hand work
get the job done. Power just melts the stuff.
Jay in Dallas
"MHerder" wrote:
>
>I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I have
now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so simple
in the manual...
>
>I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to
plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable
material to work with.
>
>I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also
make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed
by a piece of steel cable.
>
>OK. I'm done venting.
>
>But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the following
tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with
cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or
less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like
hell. There must be a better way.
>
>As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so
that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest when
I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think you can
truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables. If
you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed
a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
>
>--------
>One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
There is an old receipe for working with plastics such as nylon etc. Freeze
the material and it will work easily in this state...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:36 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Rudder Cable farings
>
> Michael,
>
> I've used a hacksaw to cut, then dressed with sandpaper. Hand tools and
> hand work get the job done. Power just melts the stuff.
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
> "MHerder" wrote:
>
>>
>>I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...
>>I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks
>>so simple in the manual...
>>
>>I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
>>similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
>>generally a miserable material to work with.
>>
>>I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the
>>a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly
>>be being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
>>
>>OK. I'm done venting.
>>
>>But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
>>following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router
>>(same), dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic
>>cutoff wheel which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic
>>all over me and it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
>>
>>As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this
>>point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill
>>the rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I
>>don't think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try
>>to run the cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize
>>that you should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away
>>then there you are drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of
>>you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
>>
>>--------
>>One Rivet at a Time!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
I found that drilling and deburring a hole at the terminus of the slot
in the fairlead, then cutting to the hole with a bandsaw worked well.
Dred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Spencer" <jpspencer(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
Those with flying 701's
Have you had a problem with your fuel caps leaking and if so what did
you do for a fix? I have tried about a half dozen different gaskets and
no success. Believe now that the fuel may be getting between the cap and
the doubler inside it and then sucking out.
Thanks Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaybannist(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft Quality |
I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried Google and
Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use aircraft quality."
If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an AN bolt, what makes
the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
What makes a "certified" aircraft safe ?
It has FAA seal of approval..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:30 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
>
> I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried
> Google and Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use
> aircraft quality." If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an
> AN bolt, what makes the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
>
> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin L. Rupert" <klr12(at)psu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
Every AN bolt, nut, washer, etc has to meet the criteria for a mil spec
and is QC'ed to that spec. SAE grades, such as a grade 8's, has an
inspection done on only a few in a batch. The ones that are not
inspected are a crap shoot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Spencer" <jpspencer(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
Ben
Thanks for the reply. I brazed on forward facing 3 inch high fuel vent
tubes while building the plane. I don't believe that's the problem...am
thinking it's maybe more of a problem with the double walled fuel caps
supplied by Zenith in the kit...the fuel may be getting between the 2
parts of the cap and then getting sucked out regardless of gasket
integrity???You are correct in that it only happens when near full.
Thanks again
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
It is to do with the accuracy with which the bolts and nuts are
manufactured, form of the thread etc. There is a small radii between the head
and the
bolt shank that properly distributes the load on the head. The tensile strength
of the steel is only one characteristic. The standards are set by the Army
and Navy hence the AN part of the part number not the FAA.
John Read
Phone: 303-648-3261
Fax: 303-648-3262
Cell: 719-494-4567
In a message dated 3/2/2008 7:47:49 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,
notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "steve"
What makes a "certified" aircraft safe ?
It has FAA seal of approval..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:30 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jaybannist(at)cs.com
>
> I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried
> Google and Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use
> aircraft quality." If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an
> AN bolt, what makes the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
>
> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Smith <zenithlist(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
Are you suggesting that, unlike SAE, every AN items get inspected? If not, wouldn't
uninspected AN be potentially crap shoot as well?
Every AN bolt, nut, washer, etc has to meet the criteria for a mil spec
and is QC'ed to that spec. SAE grades, such as a grade 8's, has an
inspection done on only a few in a batch. The ones that are not
inspected are a crap shoot.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
Michael Hilderbrand
----- Original Message ----
From: "Jaybannist(at)cs.com" <Jaybannist(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 2, 2008 8:30:30 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried Google and
Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use aircraft quality."
If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an AN bolt, what makes
the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
It is not necessarily better quality. About 10 years ago a flood of "bogus" "aircraft
grade" hardware, AN, MS, NAS, NASM, BAC, showed up in the market and there
were some failures that led to a very expensive testing and certification
to fasteners in the supply chain. That is with fairly rigorous process and quality
standards that "aircraft grade" hardware come burdened with.
Grade 8 bolts have a less rigorous pedigree requirement (in my opinion). Things
like rolled threads, perpendicularity of the washer face under the head and the
head itself, concentricity, fillet geometry under the head, alloy, heat treatments,
temper, coating/plating, are all controlled in "aircraft grade" hardware.
Using "aircraft grade" is expensive but gives the peace of mind that the joint
will perform as designed.
I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried Google and
Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use aircraft quality."
If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an AN bolt, what makes
the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
| From: | "rroberts" <n701rr(at)yahoo.com> |
I'll take two of those modified caps if anyone knows where to get them. ZAC just
emailed me back saying they couldn't provide the part??
--------
Low & Slow
Rick
www.n701rr.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167367#167367
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bolding" <jnbolding1(at)teleshare.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
Hi Joe, How's tricks in Miss.?? seal up the cap halves with proseal
, had to do that on a Pacer once. John
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Spencer
To: Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 9:46 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 Fuel Caps leaking
Ben
Thanks for the reply. I brazed on forward facing 3 inch high fuel vent
tubes while building the plane. I don't believe that's the problem...am
thinking it's maybe more of a problem with the double walled fuel caps
supplied by Zenith in the kit...the fuel may be getting between the 2
parts of the cap and then getting sucked out regardless of gasket
integrity???You are correct in that it only happens when near full.
Thanks again
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Spencer" <jpspencer(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Caps leaking |
John
Right. Your description is just about exactly what I did on the vent
tube and of course after really looking at the cap it's obvious that
fuel is getting around the portion of the vent tube that extends inside
the fuel cap as well as thru the existing small holes. Will epoxy all
that up or maybe braze and believe that will do it.
Guys thanks for the replies.
Joe
Of course that vent tube brazed to the top of the cap needs to go
through the inner portion of the cap as well, then the original holes in
that inner layer are plugged.
Those caps with that original venting system are only suitable for a
filler neck that's well above the fuel level, like in a car gas tank.
If the fuel sloshes up against the cap, like it will do in a full
aircraft tank, they will leak.
The new vent tube only needs to be 1/8" bore, and three inches high is
enough to prevent fuel sloshing up and out. Bent so it's facing forward
pressurizes it very slightly and prevents it from sucking fuel out.
Bend it so that the very front is a bit down and then rain doesn't get
in. There's no airflow as such into the tube, just enough to replace
fuel volume used and release fuel vapour pressure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another day another disaster |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Steve, I have some experience with paint and painting once over zinc primer. I
was not able to re coat sufficiently to halt bleed through totally. I don't think
allowing any amount to cure time with allow you to re coat with success. On
my plane, thankfully, the zinc bled though under the wing at the skin seam and
is very difficult to see, but I know where it is. If it had been on top somewhere
I would have had to remove to metal. Zinc will bleed through two coats
of two part epoxy and two coats of polyurethane single stage finish coat. If there
is another fix I don't know what it is. I ended up taking both flaps to the
metal to remove the zinc. Sorry I can't be more help. This issue has a long
thread in the archives. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: steve <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 5:56 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Another day another disaster
So, here I am in the Arizona sun with temperature in the low 80s.
I painted my fuselage today and need advise.? Advise from experienced painters...
The fuselage was primed with a?two part epoxy primer (green).
Its cured for months and has been scuffed for that extra "bite".
In some spots I used Tempo primer from a can.? Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff
for priming under epoxy paints so I "think" is a good product.
Well I see bleeding in some areas and wonder if its the "zinc" type primer??
Anyway, what do I need to do ??? I assume I let it all cure for a few days and
lightly sand and apply one last light coat..???...
Any thoughts ??
?
Thanks
?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Polishing with Nuvite |
Hi All,
Can any of you guys who have used Nuvite to polish you plane tell me how
much of their polishing materials you used ?
And which grades did you find to work best ?
Thanks,
John Davis
Burnsville, NC
601 XL - Jab 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another day another disaster |
| From: | "n85ae" <n85ae(at)yahoo.com> |
You might try a Waterborne Epoxy primer like System Three WR-155,
the Zinc primer you have is probably being dissolved and bleeding into
the primer you are using now due to the solvents.
Of course, if you use the WR-155, then you'll need to test all your topcoats
for compatability with the primer ...
Jeff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167417#167417
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
| From: | "skyridersbn" <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
I am about to buy a small blasting unit so I can clean up my aluminum parts. I
have available 2 different grit sizes I could buy. The grit grade of "fine"
is 24 grit. The other one has a grit grade of 12 and is called "course". Which
one is the best one to use for cleaning up my Corvair engine parts? I also
have the tubes, valve covers, oil pan and baffles that are needing to be blasted.
Can I use the walnut shells on them or should I switch over to sand or a
different media??
Any information will be greatly appreciated!
Larry Hursh
CH601XL Rudder done, working on elevator kit and have wings on order.
Corvair powered
(N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167433#167433
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
Grade 8 bolts are to be 150,000 psi tensile strength minimum. AN3-AN8 bolts are
heat treated to 125,000 psi minimum tensile strength.
A lower strength bolt can indeed bend more before failure more readily than a higher
strength bolt. Bolted joints require well designed choices of the fasteners,
the plates being joined, service conditions, etc. Since the bolts are a relatively
small cost in the total, for airframes, why consider using other?
This discussion started with reference to WW referring to Grade 8 bolts in the
engine. The original and all subsequent GM test engines were built without AN,
MS, or NAS bolts - shouldn't their hardware be suitable?
Michael Hilderbrand wrote:
I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
Michael Hilderbrand
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Vega <amyvega2005(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
keep in mind that one of the speculative reasons that 601 crashed 1.5 years ago
with a wing falure waws that the guy bought the plane and replaced the wing spar
bolt with local hardware store bolt. is it fact I do not know however i know
the AN bolts are cheap and that a good design can still fail due to pilot
failure on shoddy work and short cuts.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2008 2:33 PM
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
>
>Grade 8 bolts are to be 150,000 psi tensile strength minimum. AN3-AN8 bolts are
heat treated to 125,000 psi minimum tensile strength.
>
>A lower strength bolt can indeed bend more before failure more readily than a
higher strength bolt. Bolted joints require well designed choices of the fasteners,
the plates being joined, service conditions, etc. Since the bolts are a
relatively small cost in the total, for airframes, why consider using other?
>
>This discussion started with reference to WW referring to Grade 8 bolts in the
engine. The original and all subsequent GM test engines were built without AN,
MS, or NAS bolts - shouldn't their hardware be suitable?
>
>Michael Hilderbrand wrote:
> I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
>
>Michael Hilderbrand
>
>
>
>
> Dave Downey
> Harleysville (SE) PA
> 100 HP Corvair
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Race" <mykitairplane(at)mrrace.com> |
| Subject: | Monday Evening Chat Room |
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
CH-701 N73EX (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clyde Barcus" <barcusc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Clarification---Certified Engines & Experimental aircraft. |
Because of all the comments and questions in response to the posting I
made on the Continental O-200, it became clear I needed to find out what
is correct. What I did find out was some of what I was told was right
and some was wrong, even though the information came from people heavily
involved in aviation including certified A & P's. I am making the
assumption that Joe Norris at EAA headquarters knows the right answer. I
spoke with Joe today, below is the questions I ask along with his
answers.
Question: Is a certified aircraft engine still certified after it is
installed in an experimental aircraft?
Answer: No,it is no longer certified. (George, you were right, I was
told the opposite by an A &P)
Question: If that is the case, then what about the 25 hour and 40 hour
test phase?
Answer: To get the 25 hour fly off you must prove it is a certified
engine including the correct prop and all accessories (carb, starter,
mags,etc) for that specific engine. The example he gave was: If it came
off a Cessna 150, the prop has to be the same pitch and diameter
designated for that application for anything else it will be assigned 40
hours. Once the inspection is done, the engine is no longer certified.
Question: Who can work on the engine at that point?
Answer: Anyone when it is on a experimental aircraft (E-AB.)
Question: When can you work on the engine or make changes to the
certified engine.
Answer: Immediately after the inspector leaves.
Question: Now that it is no longer certified, is it necessary to take
the data plate off?
Answer: No, actually it is best to leave it in place.
Question: When buying a used aircraft engine, how would someone like me
find about AD's on a particular engine?
Answer: www.faa.gov 1. Do a search on make and model 2. Ask around a
local EAA Chapter, most IAs have a CD Rom they can use to look up
information on any aircraft engine.
Question: What about the 5 hour test flight phase.
Answer: That was only for the so-called "fat ultralight" it has
expired..
Thanks to all, your response has pointed out the need for me to look for
better answers.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Ray" <davgray(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Polishing with Nuvite |
John
#7 for initial compounding (slow bonnet lambs wool 3M)
#7 for initial polishing (cyclo)
C for secondary compounding (slow bonnet lambs wool 3M)
C for polishing (cyclo)
S for final polishing (cyclo)
Final cyclo with microfiber
I used mineral spirits to clean the metal between grit size changes but not
after the S polish since it will remove a
protective coating.
Polish as much as possible before attaching it to the aircraft. Especially
the bottom side of the wings and stabilizer.
I did not like the #9. It did not seem to cut as well as the #7.
I did not like the #6 for the same reason.
1/2 lb each for one 601XL possibility more of the #7 if any.
This will produce a pretty good appearance but it is not a perfect mirror.
It would take a double pass application of each step above for that. Takes
about 3 hours per Lf top, Lf bottom, Rt top, Rt Bottom wing surface.
You need thick chemical resistant rubber gloves and a face mask and a shower
after you work with this stuff. The residue is black and very fine.
Gary Ray 601XL
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Davis" <johnd@data-tech.com>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 11:49 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Polishing with Nuvite
>
> Hi All,
>
> Can any of you guys who have used Nuvite to polish you plane tell me how
> much of their polishing materials you used ?
>
> And which grades did you find to work best ?
>
> Thanks,
> John Davis
> Burnsville, NC
> 601 XL - Jab 3300
>
>
> --
3:59 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
| From: | "annken100" <annken100(at)aol.com> |
Larry,
I used the fine grit and it worked well on my aluminum parts. It cleans and polishes
the aluminum very nicely. Just make sure that all the heavy grease and
oil is removed beforehand because you'll end up with neat little clumps of walnut
media.
The walnut media doesn't work well with steel parts unless they are already very
clean and rust-free. I used conventional sand blast media to clean the steel
parts.
Good luck,
Ken Pavlou
601XL / Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167500#167500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
| From: | "skyridersbn" <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the steel parts
or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I honestly never heard
of using walnut shells before so this part is all new to me. I DID buy the
fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can use it as a "finishing blast".
I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of silica sand for the steel parts.
I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder coating.
I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor Freight. It was a fraction
of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm looking for a used gas stove
to bake the parts in. I was looking for a primer to apply to the parts prior
to powder coating. My brother in law told me he didn't think I needed a primer,
just only an acid etch to lock up the rust. I have that already, just not
sure if I should or shouldn't use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that
one?
I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and hopefully,
I can get some really good information just from asking the right questions.
Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
Best Regards
Larry Hursh
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
| From: | "annken100" <annken100(at)aol.com> |
Larry,
I don't know much about powder coating. I believe that some sort of conversion
coating is required before the powder coat is applied. I'm sure a google search
will set you on the right path.
Good Luck,
Ken
601XL / Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167505#167505
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | burbby <burbby(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | monday nite chat |
does anyone know the address of the monday nite chat?
Thanks
Gary
601XL
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Downey <planecrazydld(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Please keep in mind that it is very difficult to purge more aggressive media to
change over to a less aggressive media. OK going the hard/heavy to soft/light
- just very hard to eliminate the harsh residual contamination.
Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the steel parts
or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I honestly never heard
of using walnut shells before so this part is all new to me. I DID buy the
fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can use it as a "finishing blast".
I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of silica sand for the steel parts.
I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder coating.
I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor Freight. It was a fraction
of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm looking for a used gas stove
to bake the parts in. I was looking for a primer to apply to the parts prior
to powder coating. My brother in law told me he didn't think I needed a primer,
just only an acid etch to lock up the rust. I have that already, just not
sure if I should or shouldn't use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that
one?
I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and hopefully,
I can get some really good information just from asking the right questions.
Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
Best Regards
Larry Hursh
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bolding" <jnbolding1(at)teleshare.net> |
| Subject: | Powder requirements |
Spent a career selling powder equipment and blast equipment so I'll throw my
.02 in here.
Unlike a solvent born liquid paint, powder is VERY unforgiving of a
contaminated substrate, it MUST be clean, no oils, ect. Wiping it down
with solvent just spreads the oils around in lower concentrations. Rust HAS
to be removed down to the white metal. (If you're serious about a quality
job) A solvent born paint uses the solvents to "blend into" a contaminated
surface much better than a water born paint and infinitely better than
powder. A blasted surface with a little "tooth" is the preferred surface
for powder.
look for an electric oven instead of the gas fired one, much safer.
John Bolding
-----
> I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
> coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor
> Freight. It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm
> looking for a used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a
> primer to apply to the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law
> told me he didn't think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock
> up the rust. I have that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't
> use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that one?
>
> I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
> hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the
> right questions.
> Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
>
> Best Regards
> Larry Hursh
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: monday nite chat |
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
Doug
--- burbby wrote:
> does anyone know the address of the monday nite
> chat?
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 601XL
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Short" <creativesigns(at)embarqmail.com> |
Has anyone considered making the panel form carbon fiber or composite
materials?
My thought is I would make for a slick looking, very strong glare free
surface.
Also thinking of using this technique for tips and farings.
CREATIVE SIGNWORKS
1168 Byron Rd.
Kaufman, Tx 75142
John & Mindy Short
972-962-7464
Cell: 214-240-3815
www.creative-sign-works.com
creativesigns(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
This topic comes up all the time. To get the 25 hour phase 1 you need a certified
engine/prop combo. However, once that engine is hung on your E-AB it is no
longer certified, no matter who does the maintenance. If you pull the engine and
want to put it into a certified aircraft, it needs to be signed off by an A+P.
It's much more likely that it will be signed off without being torn down if
all the work is done and documented by a certified mechanic, but there is no
way to maintain its certified status while it's on your experimental. Don't mess
with the data plate; you don't need to remove it to make it an experimental,
and it's value in the certified world is minimal without a data plate. In any
event it's pretty tough to do a thorough test protocol in 25 hours anyway,
so I wouldn't fret about it too much.
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167544#167544
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william Clapp <iflykrs(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | SOUTHERN B-B-QUE FLY-IN MARCH 15th UPDATE ! |
Hi Folks - for any of you interested in the Southern B-B-Que Fly-in and get together
on March 15th there is some information for you at billclapp.com . I hope
to see some of you there for some fun and an excuse to fly and meet people.
Call me or email me if you have specific needs or questions. Thank you.
Bill Clapp
Bill Clapp - KR2S builder and pilot
Valdosta GA
www.billclapp.com
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry H <skyridersbn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder requirements |
Thanks for the info John. I did realize that I need an electric oven instead of
a gas one. Makes sense because I never thought of "fumes" being so explosive.
Glad I asked about it.
I'm slowly learning about the powder coating too. I was told I need to use a
"pre-primer" (acid type solution) and another person suggested an "etching primer"
as a base coat. Everything I've been reading says I need only bare metal
for the best adhesion, but it MUST be clean as you said. I'm planning on powder
coating the push rod tubes, cylinder heads, and the rear cover. I still
haven't decided if I want to buy the "Corvair 100 HP valve covers from WW or
coat these too, along with the oil pan. Decisions, decisions! I think once I
learn all the in's and out's of powder coating, I'll want to paint anything and
everything I can get into the oven!
I read too that there is such a thing as a "low temp" powder but as of yet, I
haven't run across it for sale. Is there such a thing and if there is, where
could it be purchased at?
Like I said before, I'm such a newbie at this but I DO have the perfectionism
in me to do something extremely well if I do it at all. For me, there is no
such thing as "good enough". It HAS TO BE RIGHT or I will NOT do it. (I guess
this is why I'm going through the learning curve, asking as many questions as
I can to learn.
Thanks to all that are helping me to understand this process of powder coating.
I think it is going to be something that is going to be well worth the efforts!
Regards,
Larry Hursh
John Bolding wrote:
Spent a career selling powder equipment and blast equipment so I'll throw my
.02 in here.
Unlike a solvent born liquid paint, powder is VERY unforgiving of a
contaminated substrate, it MUST be clean, no oils, ect. Wiping it down
with solvent just spreads the oils around in lower concentrations. Rust HAS
to be removed down to the white metal. (If you're serious about a quality
job) A solvent born paint uses the solvents to "blend into" a contaminated
surface much better than a water born paint and infinitely better than
powder. A blasted surface with a little "tooth" is the preferred surface
for powder.
look for an electric oven instead of the gas fired one, much safer.
John Bolding
-----
> I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
> coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor
> Freight. It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm
> looking for a used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a
> primer to apply to the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law
> told me he didn't think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock
> up the rust. I have that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't
> use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that one?
>
> I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
> hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the
> right questions.
> Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
>
> Best Regards
> Larry Hursh
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell Haas" <darrellhaas(at)gmail.com> |
What are people using for HVLP paint sprayers- The best for the buck?
Thanks,
Darrell
601 XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Arnold" <arno7452(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | SOUTHERN B-B-QUE FLY-IN MARCH 15th UPDATE ! |
Zenith Listers,
While flying from Zephyrhills, FL to Goldsboro, NC, my CFI abandoned me
and my CH701 near Folkston, GA. I had the good fortune of finding Bill
who lives near by in Valdosta, GA.
The Rotax 912 ULS developed a problem with the fuel pump. Lockwood made
an overnight delivery with new pump. Thanks Lockwood! I returned home
February 20, 2008 - March 04, 2008
Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-ht