AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-al
November 13, 2001 - December 01, 2001
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kay <skay(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coaxial cable |
Does that make it inappropriate for aircraft use, I do know it is 75 ohms and has
very high
bandwidth. (2Ghz?)
>
> RG-6 is 75 ohm cable, not 50 ohm. It's used for vhf/uhf &
> cable tv apps.
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coaxial cable |
>> >Bob, I've got a lot of RG-6 (quad shielded, solid center conductor) from wiring
>> >my home theater. Would it be appropriate for any radio application? -Steve
>>
>> I'd have to look up the specs on this stuff . . . I think it's
>> a well shielded material suited for noisy building environments
>> but I think RG-6 insulation is not as whippy as RG-400 or RG-142.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>RG-6 is 75 ohm cable, not 50 ohm. It's used for vhf/uhf &
>cable tv apps.
GOOD POINT! I'd forgotten that.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Oscillating ammeter needle |
>
>The problem was a poor engine to airframe ground and this showed up when the
>"rotating tail beacon" was turned on. Note this "beacon is really a light
>being turned on and off to simulate a rotating light. The "battery chgarging
>ammeter" would pulse in sync with the light. When I properly grounded the
>engine to airframe the pulseing stopped. The owner then asked what I had
>done as he used the "pulsing ammeter" as a "its working" check.
>
>Basically the battery and alternator negative circuits were grounded thru
>the shields and control cables. Been that way for many years. Also cured
>other syrange electrical problems including a poorly charged battery.
>
>Paul
aha! I'm glad you mentioned this Paul. It's true that
MOST wiring problems involve wire but from time to time
components of the airframe and devices in the ground
path are contributors if not direct causation.
I have to continually remind myself never to assume that
because things are sorta bolted together that the
electrical integrity is as good as the mechanical integrity.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | VR749 voltage regulator? |
I went looking for a VR166 voltage regulator today, as that is the
one that Bob Nuckholls recommends. The local Canadian Tire auto
parts guy looked up the Ford section of his cross reference, and
couldn't find VR166 anywhere. The most common one in the 70's was
the VR749, followed by the VR540SLD. The VR749 looked like the
pictures of the VR166 that I had seen on the web, so I bought it.
I'm not sure why the VR166 wasn't on the list - maybe that part
number has been superceded, or a different PN is used up here in
Canada.
Now I need to figure out whether I should use this VR749, or take it
back and continue hunting for a VR166. Can anyone tell me whether
the VR749 is a good bet? I've got a 60 amp ND alternator I bought
from Mark Landoll, which he had modified to take an external
regulator.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | solder, 63/37 alloy - source(s) |
Bob,
Help. I've been hinting in various e-mails that I'd like to buy some
63/37 solder. You'd mentioned a "long time ago" that you had some and
were actually looking for some small spools to wind small batches on.
It's not listed on either your website or B&Cs.
I searched Matt's archives and found an e-mail of yours Apr 7, 2001
which gave Kester & Ersin as high grade suppliers. I just went to their
web sites and talked to a distributor for Kester: Need to know what
solder "wire" diameter I want (choices start at tiny - .010 & .015, & go
up thru .020, .025, .031, .040, .050, etc.
I thought .031 was a farily "standard" - then she asked "what inside
diameter for the resin core?" I asked my options: "1.1%, 2.2%, 3.3%,
4.5%", the higher the percentage, the more resin. She even wanted to
know what KIND of resin I wanted: "Fully activated (most common),
"mildly activated", "no clean .....", "no clean .....something else",
and "synthetic water soluable no clean".
The trick is to ask for something that not only will work adequately,
but will be in stock so they ("Arnet Production Supples and Test") will
sell me 1 roll. If not in stock, they will sell me 5 pounds min (not
bad - I'd do that).
What do you suggest?
I'm going to Radio Shack before I click "send" on this: Bought a 1.5 oz
roll of 63/37 rosin-core , .050 dia for $2.99 (vs $2.49 for 60/40, so
not a big difference. Big difference is in price for larger rolls:
$10.99 for 1 pound (16 oz) roll of 60/40, $7.99 for 1/2 pound roll of
60/40).
- Radio Shack's other diameters were .064 (large) and .032 (pretty
small). The .050 for 63/37 is smaller than some other solder I've used
in the past.
- The rosin core ID wasn't listed. Called Radio Shack Tech
Support: Had to e-mail my request to them - no reply yet.
More late breaking news: I just talked to sales lady at Avnet
Production Supplies & Test (this is for the Kester brand),
1-800-432-2223. She has 1 pound rolls in stock for $5.75. Sure beats
Radio Shack - can pay shipping from California and still be cheaper than
a pound of Radio Shack's stuff.
- What I priced was: .032 dia, 2.2% rosin core size (I compromised
down from their "most common" of 3.3% to 2.2 (1.1% is smallest or least
rosin), thinking that I'm soldering all brand new wires and parts so
don't need lots of rosin residue left on joints/connections.
--- Choices of rosin core material: I asked for "fully
activated", which is what she said was "most commonly ordered".
-- They are open on West Coast 8:30-5:30 Pacific.
-- They have an on-line catalog at www.avnet.psat.com
-- Seems to be no problem ordering a small qty of whatever a
builder needs. They take personal credit card.
Bob, would you comment on the 1.1%, 2.2%, 3.3%, 4.5% spec?
Also, please comment on the "type rosen": "Fully activated",
"Activated", "no clean this" and "no clean that", and "synthetic no
clean..."
I'm ready to order as soon as I get a reply. Thanks.
David Carter
PS:
When I "googled" Ersin, it gave a link to www.multicore.com (in
England), which listed Krydon.com as a distributor - called: 500 pound
minimum! And they stock "Multicore", not Ersin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | My error in Avnet web address |
The correct web address in my "just posted" email should have been
www.avnetpsat.com ( I had a "dot" between avnet & psat).
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 11/13/01 16:02, Kevin Horton at khorton(at)cyberus.ca wrote:
>
> I went looking for a VR166 voltage regulator today, as that is the
> one that Bob Nuckholls recommends. The local Canadian Tire auto
> parts guy looked up the Ford section of his cross reference, and
> couldn't find VR166 anywhere. The most common one in the 70's was
> the VR749, followed by the VR540SLD. The VR749 looked like the
> pictures of the VR166 that I had seen on the web, so I bought it.
> I'm not sure why the VR166 wasn't on the list - maybe that part
> number has been superceded, or a different PN is used up here in
> Canada.
>
> Now I need to figure out whether I should use this VR749, or take it
> back and continue hunting for a VR166. Can anyone tell me whether
> the VR749 is a good bet? I've got a 60 amp ND alternator I bought
> from Mark Landoll, which he had modified to take an external
> regulator.
>
> Thanks,
It's been a few years but as I recall that Mark Landoll used to sell
those Ford regulators for around $10.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Oscillating Voltmeter/Flickering Panel Lights |
Bob:
On a night flight, to Memphis, TN, in my friend's RV6 we noticed the
voltmeter oscillating approximately + - 0.5 volts. The panel lights were
also flickering in synch with the voltmeter.
Turning off the nav and strobe lights did not cure the oscillation or
flickering.
The alternator and the switching voltage regulator in this plane were
purchased from Van's.
The literature that came with the alternator claims that this phenomena
can occur when using switching voltage regulators.
But I've never noticed this phenomena in my car, which also has a
switching regulator.
What's your opinion?
Gabe A Ferrer (Building RV6)
Cell: 561 758 8894
Voice or Fax: 561 622 0960
Email: ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oscillating Voltmeter/Flickering Panel Lights |
In a message dated 11/13/2001 9:31:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> But I've never noticed this phenomena in my car, which also has a
> switching regulator.
>
> What's your opinion?
>
My opinion is: it's aggravating, and mine does it, too. Same 100% Van's
set-up. And the 14.7 volts it came pre-set to is probably flogging my
Odyssey battery . Want a second opinion? I think I'm going for one of those
expensive B&C jobs with OVP later on this season. I bet my panel lights
don't flicker after that.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Crimpers |
Garmin supplies special long pins that extend beyond the connector body.
They accept the 18 gauge wire but fit in the connector body where a 22
gauge usually goes. These are machined pins. Since they stick out they
have to be sleeved. The RCT-3 crimps them fine.
Jim Bean
RV8 fuselage
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> >From: <mailto:onvacation(at)home.com>Jill Lussow
> >To: sales(at)bandcspecialty.com
> >Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 11:18 AM
> >Subject: Crimpers
> >
> >I have a question about a couple of your crimpers. I have a Garmin GPS/Comm
that I am installing and wanted to know if your RCT-3 Machine pin crimper will
work. The radio has 2 plugs, the first is a 37 pin D-sub and the other is a
HD-26 D-sub. All of the wires are 22 AWG except the power lines and they are
18 AWG. Will this tool work?
>
> The RCT-3 will install both standard (20AWG) and high density (22AWG) pins.
> 18AWG power wires can be used but you need to clip off 7 strands
> of wire in order to get the 18AWG wire to fit a 20AWG pin.
> This does not degrade the effectiveness of the joint and
> still lets you take advantage of the lower voltage drop in
> the heavier 18AWG wire.
>
> >
> >I have a Greenlee ratchet crimper and wondered if your RCT-1 is the same or
if it crimps differently for aviation purposes. Sounds like a dumb question but
I don't want to risk my aircraft for a dumb mistake. The people around here
recommend the AMP Pro Crimper II, what do you think?
>
> Not familiar with the Greenlee product you cite. Amp Pro-Crimper II
> tools are for the open-barrel, sheet metal pins. If you try to
> put a 20AWG wire on an 18AWG wire with this tool, you'll get
> a compromised electrical joint. Further, the insulation will
> be too large for a good grip by the tabs on a 20AWG pin.
>
> If it were my airplane, I'd discard the sheet metal pins
> and substitute machined pins installed with the RCT-3.
> If your radio was supplied with sheet metal pins, you need
> our bct-1 tool. I have not tried this tool with the smaller
> high density sheet metal pins . . . my gut feeling is that
> I probably wouldn't use these pins or this tool in my
> project.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#bct-1
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? |
>
>I went looking for a VR166 voltage regulator today, as that is the
>one that Bob Nuckholls recommends. The local Canadian Tire auto
>parts guy looked up the Ford section of his cross reference, and
>couldn't find VR166 anywhere. The most common one in the 70's was
>the VR749, followed by the VR540SLD. The VR749 looked like the
>pictures of the VR166 that I had seen on the web, so I bought it.
>I'm not sure why the VR166 wasn't on the list - maybe that part
>number has been superceded, or a different PN is used up here in
>Canada.
>Now I need to figure out whether I should use this VR749, or take it
>back and continue hunting for a VR166. Can anyone tell me whether
>the VR749 is a good bet? I've got a 60 amp ND alternator I bought
>from Mark Landoll, which he had modified to take an external
>regulator.
I think VR749 is the Wells Electronics for the same
regulator. VR166 is used by Standard and others.
I think the VR749 will be fine too.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Multiple wires in single terminal |
>
>Bob: I'm still fighting with a too short battery stud on my master
>contactor. Is it permissible to trim some strands of wire from the #4
>battery cable so that I can put a # 10 wire (to essential bus switch) and the
>#4 wire in a #4 terminal. I am thinking of both crimping and soldering this.
How many total wires are you trying to put on this stud?
Did you buy the contactor from us? I've never seen a contactor
that wouldn't take two terminals. We supply thin nuts and internal
tooth lockwashers with our contactors. I checked every brand and
p/n of contactor I have in house and the all have just a tad
under 1/2" of exposed thread. This is enough for two small
(red to yellow PIDG) and two 2AWG terminals and still get
a washer and nut on. I'm mystified by the problem you're
having.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Garmin supplies special long pins that extend beyond the connector body.
>They accept the 18 gauge wire but fit in the connector body where a 22
>gauge usually goes. These are machined pins. Since they stick out they
>have to be sleeved. The RCT-3 crimps them fine.
>Jim Bean
>RV8 fuselage
Interesting. I've heard of these but never seen one.
I'd be a little concerned about overcrimping with
the RCT-3 . . . the dies are set up for 20AWG
max. It might put too much crush on the 18AWG
wire grip. You might consider soldering pins
to the few wires that are 18AWG.
How do you extract these pins if the increased diameter
shadows the entry hole on the back of the connector?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: solder, 63/37 alloy - source(s) |
>
>Bob,
>
>Help. I've been hinting in various e-mails that I'd like to buy some
>63/37 solder. You'd mentioned a "long time ago" that you had some and
>were actually looking for some small spools to wind small batches on.
You're making this too complicated. The 63/37 from Radio Shack will
do fine. Or, you can order the Cadillac stuff from Allied Electronics
http://www.alliedelec.com under their catalog #833-5130
This will get you a pound of the same solder that has been used
on my bench for over 20 years. It's .031" Resin 44 by Kester.
It will cost you about $11 and shipping.
>When I "googled" Ersin, it gave a link to www.multicore.com (in
>England), which listed Krydon.com as a distributor - called: 500 pound
>minimum! And they stock "Multicore", not Ersin.
Multicore is the company, Ersin is one of their trade names
for fluxes.
See:
http://www.kellysearch.com/company.asp?corporate-key=80133930
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/7078.html
I checked some Multicore sources . . . they're higher
priced than Kester for similar stuff. Go for the big "K"
from Allied.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> I went looking for a VR166 voltage regulator today, as that is the
> one that Bob Nuckholls recommends. The local Canadian Tire auto
> parts guy looked up the Ford section of his cross reference, and
> couldn't find VR166 anywhere. The most common one in the 70's was
> the VR749, followed by the VR540SLD. The VR749 looked like the
> pictures of the VR166 that I had seen on the web, so I bought it.
> I'm not sure why the VR166 wasn't on the list - maybe that part
> number has been superceded, or a different PN is used up here in
> Canada.
>
> Now I need to figure out whether I should use this VR749, or take it
> back and continue hunting for a VR166. Can anyone tell me whether
> the VR749 is a good bet? I've got a 60 amp ND alternator I bought
> from Mark Landoll, which he had modified to take an external
> regulator.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
Hi Kevin,
Have you tried Mark's regulator? The one he sold me was
about 1" X 1 1/2" X 1/4", weighed about 1 oz, & had a trim
pot to adjust voltage. It could be mounted with stand-off's
directly to the alternator to ease wiring (It cools fine
there, as long as the alt. itself cools ok.) I'd say that it
is at least as reliable as the VR166 package.
BTW, sorry about the non-metric numbers. Our educational
process cheated us out of a proper measurement system.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: solder, 63/37 alloy - source(s) |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> http://www.alliedelec.com under their catalog #833-5130
*** Nice catalog, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Allied has been
around for years & years. Glad to see they recovered from the "evil period"
when they were owned by Radio Shack.
There's an interesting page of greases & epoxies. The product that
interests me the most is the "Circuitworks Silver Conductive Grease". I'm
thinking this might be helpful for airframe grounds - to encourage them to
keep working....
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | VR749 voltage regulator? |
-----Original Message-----
BTW, sorry about the non-metric numbers. Our educational
process cheated us out of a proper measurement system.
Charlie
Just because the rest of the world uses that horrible metric system doesn't
mean they're right. God invented the inch, yard, mile, gallon, mph, and knot
for a good reason. US!
Bruce
Glasair III - no metrics....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oscillating ammeter needle |
Bob,
I'm curious about this because I have the same problem. My electrical system works
great except
the ammeter pulses with the strobes. My question is -- if you have a bunch of
connections that
are "sorta bolted together" how do you check them and ensure that they are good
connections? Can
you do this with an ohmmeter?
>
>The problem was a poor engine to airframe ground and this showed up when the
>"rotating tail beacon" was turned on. Note this "beacon is really a light
>being turned on and off to simulate a rotating light. The "battery chgarging
>ammeter" would pulse in sync with the light. When I properly grounded the
>engine to airframe the pulseing stopped. The owner then asked what I had
>done as he used the "pulsing ammeter" as a "its working" check.
>
>Basically the battery and alternator negative circuits were grounded thru
>the shields and control cables. Been that way for many years. Also cured
>other syrange electrical problems including a poorly charged battery.
>
>Paul
aha! I'm glad you mentioned this Paul. It's true that
MOST wiring problems involve wire but from time to time
components of the airframe and devices in the ground
path are contributors if not direct causation.
I have to continually remind myself never to assume that
because things are sorta bolted together that the
electrical integrity is as good as the mechanical integrity.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple wires in single terminal |
Bob: Regarding my master contactor stud length, the contactor I received
from Van's is a Cole-Hersee brand and the useable stud length beyond the stud
retaining nut is just under 3/8in. When I get one #2 lug and the thin brass
nut and star lock washer that you so kindly sent me on there the nut is just
even with the end of the stud, i.e., no threads showing. This contactor has
a rather thick nut retaining a captive cup shaped washer at the base of the
studs. I have considered separating that nut and washer and replacing the
nut with one of the ones that you sent. This would give me another 1/16in.
or so. I'm starting to think that my best option may be to scrap this
contactor and get one of yours.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | VLM-14 Components and Installation |
Bob,
I have the following.
B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
Electrical system as per Z-13
I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your website
and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and am
still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how to set
it up?
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Multiple wires in single terminal |
>
>Bob: Regarding my master contactor stud length, the contactor I received
>from Van's is a Cole-Hersee brand and the useable stud length beyond the stud
>retaining nut is just under 3/8in. When I get one #2 lug and the thin brass
>nut and star lock washer that you so kindly sent me on there the nut is just
>even with the end of the stud, i.e., no threads showing.
this is not a structural fastener . . . the ol' 3-threads exposed
saw doesn't apply but I'd like to see more than just flush on the
stud.
> This contactor has
>a rather thick nut retaining a captive cup shaped washer at the base of the
>studs. I have considered separating that nut and washer and replacing the
>nut with one of the ones that you sent. This would give me another 1/16in.
>or so.
Loosening the base nut risks altering the alignment of the
contacts inside.
> I'm starting to think that my best option may be to scrap this
>contactor and get one of yours.
You would probably be ahead in terms of time to finish
the task and it would let you do a first class job
of terminating the wires for attachment to the stud.
I'm disappointed that the Cole-Hersee part
is so short.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oscillating ammeter needle |
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm curious about this because I have the same problem. My electrical system
works great except
>the ammeter pulses with the strobes. My question is -- if you have a bunch of
connections that
>are "sorta bolted together" how do you check them and ensure that they are good
connections? Can
>you do this with an ohmmeter?
Your ammeter SHOULD "pulse" or wiggle in response to variable
loads . . . strobes are a good example. The acid test is does
the ammeter steady out when there are no transient conditions.
Further, even if some wiggle can be observed, does it show
up in your most sensitive system transient detector. . . panel
lighting.
An early ancestor to the B&C LR-3 linear regulators was incorporated
onto the Bonanzas about 25 years ago. I designed the regulator to
work with what was then the best we knew how to do in the way
of vacuum pump pad mounted standby power source. This was a
brush type generator. Somebody took one of my regulators and
hooked it to the main alternator and pronounced it okay for
that task as well. Purchasing wanted to buy one part number
for both regulators and my boss wanted to double the product
flow so EVERYBODY was happy . . . .
It didn't take long for us to begin getting complaints from
the field that panel lights would react to strobe firings
on the wing tips. Went out and flew an offending airplane
one night. About 20 minutes of flight with the dancing
post lights is about all I could stand . . . other pilots
were even less tolerant. I dug out my trusty o'scope and
poked around in the system.
Turned out that the time-constant for good regulation on a
generator was VERY different that the one needed for alternators
(Duh . . .) Back to the workbench to work out new regulator
control loop compensation for the alternator. Once that
was accomplished, the purchasing guy was back to buying two
part numbers per airplane :-( but my boss was still selling
twice as many regulators :-)
Bottom line is, don't fixate too closely on wiggles . . .
they might just be related to the regulator doing its
job . . . wiggles strong enough to inject unacceptable
bus voltage aberrations is the thing we want to
eliminate.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 63/37 alloy - source(s) |
>
>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> http://www.alliedelec.com under their catalog #833-5130
>
>*** Nice catalog, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Allied has been
>around for years & years. Glad to see they recovered from the "evil period"
>when they were owned by Radio Shack.
>
> There's an interesting page of greases & epoxies. The product that
>interests me the most is the "Circuitworks Silver Conductive Grease". I'm
>thinking this might be helpful for airframe grounds - to encourage them to
>keep working....
There have been dozens of concoctions and witches brews
around to enhance this joint or protect that one. I suppose
most will work as intended but it's very hard to beat a
properly assembled joint of clean metals. Once you have torqued
the fastener down to get proper crush on the terminals,
it's GAS TIGHT . . . ya just can't get any better than
that no matter what goop you brush on first.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Warren D. Shoun" <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | VW powered Sonerai IIL |
Bob,
This thread is a bit outside of your normal "real airplane" conversations...}8
)
I have purchased a Volkswagen 1835 cc powered Sonerai IIL. http://www.greatplainsas.com
I am rebuilding the engine and refurbishing the airframe, which will include
a new electrical
system.
I have elected to use a beltless alternator and a Hall Effect Electronic Ignition
system, both
built by
http://www.compufire.com
The alternator is the Harley Davidson replacement 32 amp unit, part no. 55540,
and the ignition is
the VW replacement unit, part no. 11100.
Please note that these are parts that do have a long history of reliable use,
some on this type of
aircraft. Those that have had problems in aircraft application, in my opinion,
have been based on
sloppy and/or improper installation.
Will your publication provide me with enough information to correctly and effectively
install
these units, and if not, what additional recommendations could you make to me.
At your leisure and convenience...I am in the midst of the engine rebuild,
and do not have a high
pressure time line. I would much rather take the time to do it right, than take
the time to do it
over.
Cheers,
~Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dual battery circuit |
Bob,
> Further, the
> little Fawcet pumps that are routinely used to augment
> the mechanical pumps are very low in power demand . . . peak
> current during the pressure pulse is about 3A but the
> average current draw is quite nominal.
According to the 914 manual just downloaded from the Kodiak site, the engine
has no mechanical pump but two electrical pumps in series, with two check
valves in parallel.
They feed into a fuel pressure regulator with a return line two the tanks.
The pumps are specific to the engine and supplied by Rotax. The shape looks
cylindrical.
The manual says : "The voltage supply to the two pumps has to be established
completely independent.
Votage supply to main pump directly from internal generator and supply to
the auxiliary fuel pump from bus bar or battery."
So the dual battery idea might be a good one.
> . . . and after learning more about your project, I'm not
> sure you need it. You need to develop a list of all the electrically
> driven devices that you plan for your finished project. Let's
> do a load analysis for all anticipated flight conditions and
> see what's practical and necessary.
Couldn't find the pumps electical consumption. I'll ask The Dyn Aero
factory. The turbo 'box contains some sort of computer, but you just loose
turbo control in case of electrical failure. You still can operate at lower
MP
setting.
The rest of our instruments and avionics will be quite classical : turn
coordinator, horizon, maybe no DG, VHF, transponder, GPS.Engine pressures
and temps, two tanks fuel gauges and low fuel warning. Lighting : wing tip
and tail strobe lights, maybe position lights and panel lighting.
By the way, what is it best to monitor, bus voltage or amps ?
> If you can get by with 4 hours max endurance battery only in
> spite of 8 hours range, then the battery of choice would be
> 17 a.h. and about 7.5 KG.
Four hours is OK. The projected 8 hour endurance is just because in France
we could fly into any place and back without refueling. France is only 1000
km corner to corner.
Thank you for your help,
cheers,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Leading Edge of Airframe Design |
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
:
Envoy : lundi 12 novembre 2001 00:25
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Re: The Leading Edge of Airframe Design
Bob,
> Thanks for your observations on the glass-cockpit products,
> bright sun viewability is difficult . . . but there are
> products coming over the horizon that will make this task
> easier. Map orientation is a pure software issue.
You're right. That's the reason why we were surprised the option is not
included in the product.
> thinking about it, I lay the charts in my lap "north up"
> but all the EFIS displays I've observed display the
> map data in a "track over ground" display. I suppose one
> could learn to fly either.
Agreed. But "I'd prefer..." ;-)
>
> Perhaps a vernier throttle would be useful for this engine.
As the throttle lever & console are included in the kit, it seems easier to
make the gate mod.
According to the engine manual downloaded from the Kodiak site, the MP /
throttle position variation we noticed is designed into the turbo control
unit. Don't know why.
> What kind of rate-of-climb were you getting with this load?
The rate of climb was provided by the flight display, and may not be
reliable. I could read between 800 and 1200 ft/minute, following the power
setting, ie about 32 in of Hg and 5000 rpm, which is believed to equal 75 %
power.
The field elevation is about 1350 ft, and the OAT on the ground was in
the 18/20c range.
We climbed up to 4000 ft. With the turbo, the manifold pressure and rate of
climb stay the same as you climb.
Cheers,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? Source of Mark's reg |
> >Hi Kevin,
> >
> >Have you tried Mark's regulator? The one he sold me was
> >about 1" X 1 1/2" X 1/4", weighed about 1 oz, & had a trim
> >pot to adjust voltage. It could be mounted with stand-off's
> >directly to the alternator to ease wiring (It cools fine
> >there, as long as the alt. itself cools ok.) I'd say that it
> >is at least as reliable as the VR166 package.
> >Charlie
Charlie,
Who is Mark and how do I contact him about the little regulator? I like the
"adjustable voltage" feature.
David Carter
Nederland, Texas RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Garmin supplies special long pins that extend beyond the connector body.
> >They accept the 18 gauge wire but fit in the connector body where a 22
> >gauge usually goes. These are machined pins. Since they stick out they
> >have to be sleeved. The RCT-3 crimps them fine.
> >Jim Bean
> >RV8 fuselage
>
> Interesting. I've heard of these but never seen one.
> I'd be a little concerned about overcrimping with
> the RCT-3 . . . the dies are set up for 20AWG
> max. It might put too much crush on the 18AWG
> wire grip. You might consider soldering pins
> to the few wires that are 18AWG.
>
> How do you extract these pins if the increased diameter
> shadows the entry hole on the back of the connector?
>
> Bob . . .
Fortunately I haven't had to try extraction. I have to think these pins
are overkill. The 430 istructions call for two of these 18 gauge wires
all the way back to the fuse/breaker for the comm power and two more for
ground. I used them but paired up 20 gauge has to be enough. If its a 10
watt transmitter with some unknown efficiency its still not much over
one amp.
Jim Bean
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim Bean wrote:
>
> Fortunately I haven't had to try extraction. I have to think these pins
> are overkill. The 430 istructions call for two of these 18 gauge wires
> all the way back to the fuse/breaker for the comm power and two more for
> ground. I used them but paired up 20 gauge has to be enough. If its a 10
> watt transmitter with some unknown efficiency its still not much over
> one amp.
*** I wired up my '430 with the two #18's, as specified. I think Garmin
was being really conservative with their voltage drop budget, wanting a
voltage supply with low impedance at audio frequencies.
Radio frequency impedance is not an issue because bypass caps can supply
that.
The peak current draw of the GNS430 transmitter is 3A.
My installation is in a 12V airplane. I used the Garmin-recommended
voltage doubler, which is capable of 7A continuous, and requires a 15A
breaker on its 12V side. More overkill.
Well, guess I've got 4A available for other 28V toys....
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
>
>Bob,
>
>I have the following.
>
>B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
>B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
>B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
>Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
>Electrical system as per Z-13
>
>I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your website
>and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
>setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and am
>still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how to set
>it up?
>
>Ross Mickey
Looked for info on the EIS 4000 on the net. Couldn't find
a website for Grand Rapids Tech.
Does the EIS4000 have an ammeter function? Does it utilize
external shunts?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
Here is their website http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
and no, there is no ammeter function.
Ross
> >Bob,
> >
> >I have the following.
> >
> >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
> >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
> >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
> >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
> >Electrical system as per Z-13
> >
> >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
website
> >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
> >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and am
> >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how to
set
> >it up?
> >
> >Ross Mickey
>
>
> Looked for info on the EIS 4000 on the net. Couldn't find
> a website for Grand Rapids Tech.
>
> Does the EIS4000 have an ammeter function? Does it utilize
> external shunts?
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? Source of Mark's |
reg
>
>
>> >Hi Kevin,
>> >
>> >Have you tried Mark's regulator? The one he sold me was
>> >about 1" X 1 1/2" X 1/4", weighed about 1 oz, & had a trim
>> >pot to adjust voltage. It could be mounted with stand-off's
>> >directly to the alternator to ease wiring (It cools fine
>> >there, as long as the alt. itself cools ok.) I'd say that it
>> >is at least as reliable as the VR166 package.
>
>> >Charlie
>
>
>Charlie,
>
>Who is Mark and how do I contact him about the little regulator? I like the
>"adjustable voltage" feature.
>
>David Carter
>Nederland, Texas RV-6
>
Info from the RV Yellow Pages http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
MARK LANDOLL 405-392-3847 STARTERS, MASS/DAMPING RINGS, ALTERNATORS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | conductive epoxy |
I'm looking for a conductive epoxy that cures at room temperature so I can
bond a wire to a graphite/epoxy structure. Anyone know of any? We use a
lot of high-temp cure stuff at work, but I don't want to cook the structure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
Jerry,
Is the voltage converter a Garmin product? Can you provide a part number or
source for it?
Thanks in advance
Dave
jerry(at)tr2.com wrote:
>
> Jim Bean wrote:
> >
> > Fortunately I haven't had to try extraction. I have to think these pins
> > are overkill. The 430 istructions call for two of these 18 gauge wires
> > all the way back to the fuse/breaker for the comm power and two more for
> > ground. I used them but paired up 20 gauge has to be enough. If its a 10
> > watt transmitter with some unknown efficiency its still not much over
> > one amp.
>
> *** I wired up my '430 with the two #18's, as specified. I think Garmin
> was being really conservative with their voltage drop budget, wanting a
> voltage supply with low impedance at audio frequencies.
>
> Radio frequency impedance is not an issue because bypass caps can supply
> that.
>
> The peak current draw of the GNS430 transmitter is 3A.
>
> My installation is in a 12V airplane. I used the Garmin-recommended
> voltage doubler, which is capable of 7A continuous, and requires a 15A
> breaker on its 12V side. More overkill.
>
> Well, guess I've got 4A available for other 28V toys....
>
> - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Two questions:
1. What, if any, is the difference between an AC and a DC switch? I
have access to some military surplus switches., but I think they were
originally used in AC circuits. Can they be used in a DC situation?
2. Can you recommend a bench voltmeter/ammeter, brand and model, for use
in homebuilt circuitry? My old multitester doesn't provide much accuracy
down in the 12 volt range - one whole volt on a small scale is as
accurate as it gets.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB N11CB (res.)
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
>
>Here is their website http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
>and no, there is no ammeter function.
>
>Ross
>
>> >Bob,
>> >
>> >I have the following.
>> >
>> >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
>> >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
>> >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
>> >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
>> >Electrical system as per Z-13
>> >
>> >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
>website
>> >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
>> >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and am
>> >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how to
>set
>> >it up?
>> >
>> >Ross Mickey
>>
Okay, if you already have shunts appropriate to each alernator,
then all you need is the VLM-14 instrument and signal conditioner
board. You'll also need a two-pole, two-position toggle switch
to transfer the ammeter reading between the two shunts. I've
updated the installation instructions at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/instrmnt/9021704E.pdf
to show how the dual alternator shunts are wired. Check the
last page of the instructions.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Two questions:
>
>1. What, if any, is the difference between an AC and a DC switch? I
>have access to some military surplus switches., but I think they were
>originally used in AC circuits. Can they be used in a DC situation?
Do you have my book? Have you read the article at:
http://209.134.106.21/articles/swtchrat.pdf
Before you buy any switches or drill any holes in your panel
I'd recommend you look over the products and information available
from our website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com
>2. Can you recommend a bench voltmeter/ammeter, brand and model, for use
>in homebuilt circuitry? My old multitester doesn't provide much accuracy
>down in the 12 volt range - one whole volt on a small scale is as
>accurate as it gets.
ANY thing you want to pick up at Radio Shack. We sell
a nice instrument from our website catalog at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#dmm-2
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Dave,
>
> Jerry,
> Is the voltage converter a Garmin product? Can you provide a part number or
> source for it?
*** It's made by Ameri-King. P/N AK-550-6. I think mine was supplied by
Garmin - they were shipping it with 28V GNS430's before they came up with
the 14V ones.
However, I do see it listed on page 23 of the current Chief Aircraft
catalog.
- Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: conductive epoxy |
Gary Casey wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for a conductive epoxy that cures at room temperature so I can
> bond a wire to a graphite/epoxy structure. Anyone know of any? We use a
> lot of high-temp cure stuff at work, but I don't want to cook the structure.
*** I saw some in the Allied Electronics catalog - www.alliedelec.com.
Page 891 of the online catalog.
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 63/37 alloy - source(s) |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> There have been dozens of concoctions and witches brews
> around to enhance this joint or protect that one. I suppose
> most will work as intended but it's very hard to beat a
> properly assembled joint of clean metals. Once you have torqued
> the fastener down to get proper crush on the terminals,
> it's GAS TIGHT . . . ya just can't get any better than
> that no matter what goop you brush on first.
>
*** Still,
People continue to have problems with that "other half" of the circuit.
Not only in airplanes - in cars, electronic equipment, whatever. A car
fender seems to be such a substantial piece of metal, and yet it
inexplicably develops resistance where it connects to the car body.
There wouldn't have been "dozens of concoctions" developed if there was
no market. Aluminum is especially challenging, because it instantly
covers itself with aluminum oxide on exposure to air.
My first experience with this was a Heathkit oscilloscope that somebody
gave me back in high school. It would display a 60Hz trace when nothing
was connected to its input. I went through it - beefing up the power supply
caps, shielding things - all to no effect. Then I borrowed another scope
from a friend. Clipped the ground of the testing scope to the chassis of
the scope under test. Accidentally brushed the probe of the testing scope
against another part of the chassis of the scope under test.... Huh? Why is
there a voltage on this chassis? Isn't it a single piece of metal with
that other part of the chassis? Nope. It was multiple pieces of aluminum
fastened together with self-tapping sheetmetal screws. The Al had corroded
slightly at its connection point, producing a resistance.
Some years later, I worked at a telephone equipment factory. We made
large racks of FDM ( Frequency Division Multiplexing ) "stuff". Large
copper ground busses were expensive, and one day somebody had the bright
idea of replacing them with aluminum.
To make this work reliably, we had to come up with our own witches brew
of grease with embedded conductive/abrasive grit. When you tightened down
on the post, the grit would cut through the aluminum oxide. The grease
maintained a gas-tight seal.
And this was stationary equipment kept in clean, sanitary, immobile
racks in temperature controlled environments, NOT wires bolted to
dirty, greasy, flexing, vibrating airplanes!
I can cite lots more of the same...
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald A. Cox" <racox(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11/14/01 |
From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: VR749 voltage regulator?
Just because the rest of the world uses that horrible metric system doesn't
mean they're right. God invented the inch, yard, mile, gallon, mph, and knot
for a good reason. US!
Bruce
Glasair III - no metrics....
--------------------
I thought God used cubits??? Thank Him that we don't have to measure in
those!
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11/14/01 |
While channel surfing late on night, I seem to recall seeing some white
haired TV evangelist rant about how the inch was a derivative if the cubit.
Don't know if he was right or wrong.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald
A. Cox
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs -
11/14/01
From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: VR749 voltage regulator?
Just because the rest of the world uses that horrible metric system doesn't
mean they're right. God invented the inch, yard, mile, gallon, mph, and knot
for a good reason. US!
Bruce
Glasair III - no metrics....
--------------------
I thought God used cubits??? Thank Him that we don't have to measure in
those!
Ron
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
Bob,
Thanks. Just to make sure....is the "signal conditioner" the same as the
"scaling module" shown on your website? Also, I only need one of these? I
see on your website that you need two of these for a dual alternator/battery
airplane. I only have one battery and two alternators. Also, your updated
page shows a regular alternator. I have one 40 amp regular and the SD-8 PM
alternator. I am assuming this doesn't matter.
Ross
> >Ross
> >
> >> >Bob,
> >> >
> >> >I have the following.
> >> >
> >> >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
> >> >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
> >> >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
> >> >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
> >> >Electrical system as per Z-13
> >> >
> >> >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
> >website
> >> >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
> >> >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and
am
> >> >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how
to
> >set
> >> >it up?
> >> >
> >> >Ross Mickey
> >>
>
> Okay, if you already have shunts appropriate to each alernator,
> then all you need is the VLM-14 instrument and signal conditioner
> board. You'll also need a two-pole, two-position toggle switch
> to transfer the ammeter reading between the two shunts. I've
> updated the installation instructions at
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/instrmnt/9021704E.pdf
>
> to show how the dual alternator shunts are wired. Check the
> last page of the instructions.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11/14/01 |
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
> While channel surfing late on night, I seem to recall seeing some white
> haired TV evangelist rant about how the inch was a derivative if the cubit.
*** AFAIK, the inch was defined as the length of the first joint of good King
Henry VIII's thumb. The foot was - the length of his foot, the yard - the
distance from the tip of his nose to the end of his fingers when he
stretched one arm to the side.
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, there is an ammeter under development for the EIS 4000. Not sure
exactly how it will work or what it will include, but many builders have
asked for it so they are putting it in. I discussed it with the owner at
OSH this year (I think his name was Greg....you can call or e-mail him
from the Grand Rapids website....he is very helpful and responsive to
customer input). I plan to purchase the EIS 4000 for my RV-8A and
consider it the best system for the money. It already does more than the
Rocky Mountain unit (4 cylinder graphical leaning display for example)
and you don't have to build it. Cost is comparable to the R.M. unit.
The ammeter was the only thing lacking. As soon as I pay for my engine
overhaul and the ammeter function has been developed I will order one.
The ammeter function may already be available....contact Greg to get the
status.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit on order...
_______
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
Here is their website http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
and no, there is no ammeter function.
Ross
> >Bob,
> >
> >I have the following.
> >
> >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
> >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
> >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
> >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
> >Electrical system as per Z-13
> >
> >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
website
> >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
> >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and
am
> >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how
to
set
> >it up?
> >
> >Ross Mickey
>
>
> Looked for info on the EIS 4000 on the net. Couldn't find
> a website for Grand Rapids Tech.
>
> Does the EIS4000 have an ammeter function? Does it utilize
> external shunts?
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What They're Saying... |
Hi Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is currently underway and lot's of people have
been making their Contribution and saying a lot of very nice things about
the Lists and what they're daily-dose of Forum means to them! I've
included a few more of the Lister comments below.
Won't you take a moment to support your Lists this month? Its fast and
easy by making a Secure Credit Card Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
For Complete information on the upgrades and improvements the Lists and
servers have undergone this year, have a look at this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113171908?KEYS=asdfasdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=4?SERIAL=1942094803?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Here's few more of the comments I've been receiving about what the Lists
mean to its members:
======================
Not only a great way to help each other out, it's been
a wonderful way to meet new friends. - Fred H.
The List is invaluable to me...
- Russell W.
I absolutely love your Lists...
- Scott C.
...you are tying all the builders together.
- David A.
The Lists continue to be an invaluable source of
information. - Jeff O.
I look forward to reading my Email every day...
- Harvey S.
They are invaluable resources to builders of all
skill levels. - Kevin H.
...another year of excellent service.
- Terry W.
Way cool setup.
- Chuck R.
...source of information, inspiration, support,
and camaraderie. - Carlos S.
I'd be lost without them...
- Jeff O.
======================
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
>
>Bob,
>
>Thanks. Just to make sure....is the "signal conditioner" the same as the
>"scaling module" shown on your website? Also, I only need one of these? I
>see on your website that you need two of these for a dual alternator/battery
>airplane. I only have one battery and two alternators. Also, your updated
>page shows a regular alternator. I have one 40 amp regular and the SD-8 PM
>alternator. I am assuming this doesn't matter.
>
>Ross
Only one scaling module or signal conditioner is needed.
Wire per the drawings in the instructions. the update
page just shows how to switch the single instrument between
two alternators . . . it doesn't matter what kind of alternator
it is.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: conductive epoxy |
>
>Gary Casey wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm looking for a conductive epoxy that cures at room temperature so I can
>> bond a wire to a graphite/epoxy structure. Anyone know of any? We use a
>> lot of high-temp cure stuff at work, but I don't want to cook the structure.
What's the purpose of this connection?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11 |
/14/01
SNIP<<
Just because the rest of the world uses that horrible metric system
doesn't mean they're right. God invented the inch, yard, mile, gallon,
mph, and knot for a good reason. US!
SNIP<<
SNIP<<
*** AFAIK, the inch was defined as the length of the first joint of good
King
Henry VIII's thumb. The foot was - the length of his foot, the yard - the
distance from the tip of his nose to the end of his fingers when he
stretched one arm to the side.
SNIP<<
That would be Henry VIII king of the US then?
SNIP<<
and chains, and furlongs, etc. etc. etc. The only real advantage of the
metric system is that it's all based on the decimal system.
SNIP<<
The only *real* advantage of the metric system is that it's based on common
sense
and good science.
Come on America embrace Metrication, you know it makes sense.
I would love to see how Bob N's love of all things American and his love of
good scientific principles resolve this one.
regards
Bob the Brit
PS This is an excellent list, and I design Electrical Power Generation and
Distribution Systems for a living. 5 different aircraft from scratch over
the past 20 years, unfortunately all have been jets, (except the current
project which is a turbo-prop based on imperial units !?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walter S. Fellows" <fellows(at)asiaonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11 |
/14/01
Thankfully all electrical calculations are already METRIC......... So we
can put an end to this senseless interchange.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-
> aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marshall Robert
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 3:31 PM
> To: 'aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs
- 11
> /14/01
>
> <rmarshall@pilatus-aircraft.com>
>
>
> SNIP<<
> Just because the rest of the world uses that horrible metric system
> doesn't mean they're right. God invented the inch, yard, mile, gallon,
> mph, and knot for a good reason. US!
> SNIP<<
>
> SNIP<<
> *** AFAIK, the inch was defined as the length of the first joint of
good
> King
> Henry VIII's thumb. The foot was - the length of his foot, the yard -
the
> distance from the tip of his nose to the end of his fingers when he
> stretched one arm to the side.
> SNIP<<
>
> That would be Henry VIII king of the US then?
>
> SNIP<<
> and chains, and furlongs, etc. etc. etc. The only real advantage of
the
> metric system is that it's all based on the decimal system.
> SNIP<<
>
> The only *real* advantage of the metric system is that it's based on
> common
> sense
> and good science.
>
> Come on America embrace Metrication, you know it makes sense.
> I would love to see how Bob N's love of all things American and his
love
> of
> good scientific principles resolve this one.
>
>
> regards
>
> Bob the Brit
>
>
> PS This is an excellent list, and I design Electrical Power
Generation
> and
> Distribution Systems for a living. 5 different aircraft from scratch
over
> the past 20 years, unfortunately all have been jets, (except the
current
> project which is a turbo-prop based on imperial units !?)
>
>
>
==
>
=
>
=
>
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-
> list
>
=
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Metric, shmetric |
Just to carry dimensions another cubit, have you heard how the Thiokol
boosters on the Shuttle depended for dimension upon the width of two horses'
rear ends?
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
"..............unfortunately all have been jets, (except the current
project which is a turbo-prop based on imperial units !?)"
Dear Bob the Brit:
I realise the historical nature (as well as perhaps the
social...) of the inch, however in view of the sensitive nature of us
colonials, do you suppose you could call them "Commonwealth units"?
Ferg
Europa A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metric, shmetric |
Fergus Kyle wrote:
>
>
> Just to carry dimensions another cubit, have you heard how the Thiokol
> boosters on the Shuttle depended for dimension upon the width of two horses'
> rear ends?
*** Lemme guess:
Booster has to travel on roads. Railroads? Roads based on paths of
centuries past. Paths that acommodated the width of two horses rear ( &
front ) ends. Right?
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? Source of Mark's reg |
Just out of curiosity, is there something wrong with the adjustable regulator
that Van's sells? It's roughly the same size as the one described as
"Mark's."
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
Check out the engine monitor at robhickman/ACS2000.html. It has an ammeter
function as well as trim position, checklist, cht, egt, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
> Guys, there is an ammeter under development for the EIS 4000. Not sure
> exactly how it will work or what it will include, but many builders have
> asked for it so they are putting it in. I discussed it with the owner at
> OSH this year (I think his name was Greg....you can call or e-mail him
> from the Grand Rapids website....he is very helpful and responsive to
> customer input). I plan to purchase the EIS 4000 for my RV-8A and
> consider it the best system for the money. It already does more than the
> Rocky Mountain unit (4 cylinder graphical leaning display for example)
> and you don't have to build it. Cost is comparable to the R.M. unit.
> The ammeter was the only thing lacking. As soon as I pay for my engine
> overhaul and the ammeter function has been developed I will order one.
> The ammeter function may already be available....contact Greg to get the
> status.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit on order...
> _______
> From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
>
> Here is their website http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
> and no, there is no ammeter function.
>
> Ross
>
> > >Bob,
> > >
> > >I have the following.
> > >
> > >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
> > >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
> > >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
> > >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
> > >Electrical system as per Z-13
> > >
> > >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
> website
> > >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
> > >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and
> am
> > >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how
> to
> set
> > >it up?
> > >
> > >Ross Mickey
> >
> >
> > Looked for info on the EIS 4000 on the net. Couldn't find
> > a website for Grand Rapids Tech.
> >
> > Does the EIS4000 have an ammeter function? Does it utilize
> > external shunts?
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
I meant to say check out the engine monitor at
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/ACS2000.html Sorry. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
> Guys, there is an ammeter under development for the EIS 4000. Not sure
> exactly how it will work or what it will include, but many builders have
> asked for it so they are putting it in. I discussed it with the owner at
> OSH this year (I think his name was Greg....you can call or e-mail him
> from the Grand Rapids website....he is very helpful and responsive to
> customer input). I plan to purchase the EIS 4000 for my RV-8A and
> consider it the best system for the money. It already does more than the
> Rocky Mountain unit (4 cylinder graphical leaning display for example)
> and you don't have to build it. Cost is comparable to the R.M. unit.
> The ammeter was the only thing lacking. As soon as I pay for my engine
> overhaul and the ammeter function has been developed I will order one.
> The ammeter function may already be available....contact Greg to get the
> status.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit on order...
> _______
> From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
>
> Here is their website http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
> and no, there is no ammeter function.
>
> Ross
>
> > >Bob,
> > >
> > >I have the following.
> > >
> > >B&C 40 amp alternator with shunt
> > >B&C SD-8 backup alternator with shunt
> > >B&C LR3C-14 Aircraft Alternator Control System
> > >Grand Rapids Technolgy EIS 4000 (with Voltmeter)
> > >Electrical system as per Z-13
> > >
> > >I have been planning on getting your VLM-14. I have looked at your
> website
> > >and am confused as to what components I need and how I would go about
> > >setting it up. I looked at the Installation and Operations manual and
> am
> > >still confused. Could you please clarify what I need to buy and how
> to
> set
> > >it up?
> > >
> > >Ross Mickey
> >
> >
> > Looked for info on the EIS 4000 on the net. Couldn't find
> > a website for Grand Rapids Tech.
> >
> > Does the EIS4000 have an ammeter function? Does it utilize
> > external shunts?
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Loram <johnl(at)loram.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation |
Could we have a complete link? thanks, -john-
-----Original Message-----
From: RION BOURGEOIS [mailto:rion(at)worldnet.att.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
Check out the engine monitor at robhickman/ACS2000.html. It has an ammeter
function as well as trim position, checklist, cht, egt, etc.
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net> |
| Subject: | Conductive epoxy. |
from Rob Shipley. Rob(at)robsglass.com
Gary Casey wrote
I'm looking for a conductive epoxy that cures at room temperature so I
can
bond a wire to a graphite/epoxy structure. Anyone know of any? We use
a
lot of high-temp cure stuff at work, but I don't want to cook the
structure.
I haven't looked for this in a while but Chrysler used to make this for
repairing the connector tabs which had fallen off heated rear windows.
If they don't make it anymore you may find an autoparts dealer who has
it. If you do find it I would appreciate knowing if its still
available.
Rob
RV9A N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Seefried" <seefried(at)oberon.ark.com> |
| Subject: | Conductive epoxy |
I've seen that stuff at the local NAPA automotive store as a Loctite
product.
Andrew Seefried
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VR749 voltage regulator? Source of Mark's reg |
>
>Just out of curiosity, is there something wrong with the adjustable regulator
>that Van's sells? It's roughly the same size as the one described as
>"Mark's."
I'm not familiar with it . . . but it's not difficult
to built a perfectly adequate regulator . . . I've designed
dozens. Just be sure to include ov protection and active
notification of low voltage as part of your COMPLETE
charging system.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | check this out . . . |
This article describes the efforts of a totally volunteer
commission of current and former law enforcement officials who
opined, "Private airplanes can take off totally unsupervised,
leaving a loophole the size of the Lincoln Tunnel,"
They recommend Requiring national identification cards and
upgrading security at what they described as the "totally
unsupervised" area of private aviation . . ."
Here's the whole article.
http://www.newsday.com/news/local/newyork/ny-cards14.story
In the aftermath of 9/11 the uninformed and paranoid citizens
of title and ill-bestowed power are crawling out of the
woodwork. With a paltry 600,000 pilots and 150,000 airplanes
(most of which are non-revenue generating pleasure machines)
it won't take too many vocal millions to have serious and
lasting consequences to our hobby. Be vigilant my friends
and if you value your freedom of the air, be ready to
fight.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitors (was Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation) |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Rion, I have seen the picture of the ACS2000 before, and it looks very
nice, but is it for sale? I have not inquired about it recently but over
a year ago when I looked at it, it was not available for purchase yet.
Anybody know if you can buy one and what the price is? Probes included??
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finish kit on order...
_______
From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
I meant to say check out the engine monitor at
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/ACS2000.html Sorry. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
> Guys, there is an ammeter under development for the EIS 4000. Not sure
> exactly how it will work or what it will include, but many builders
have
> asked for it so they are putting it in. I discussed it with the owner
at
> OSH this year (I think his name was Greg....you can call or e-mail him
> from the Grand Rapids website....he is very helpful and responsive to
> customer input). I plan to purchase the EIS 4000 for my RV-8A and
> consider it the best system for the money. It already does more than
the
> Rocky Mountain unit (4 cylinder graphical leaning display for example)
> and you don't have to build it. Cost is comparable to the R.M. unit.
> The ammeter was the only thing lacking. As soon as I pay for my engine
> overhaul and the ammeter function has been developed I will order one.
> The ammeter function may already be available....contact Greg to get
the
> status.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit on order...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike & Lee Anne (mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)" <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, help
please!.....Built all those nice holes thru the firewall, ran a plethora
of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
things full of? Be gentle please.
Criteria.....ability to 'work it in', reasonable temperature resistance,
'permanent' softness in case I need to rework it for more/fewer wires in
the future, reasonably neat and nice looking. Oh, yeah, must be able to
handle metric and imperial sized holes.....
I've seen high temp red silicon (?) used, but the end product always
looks messy.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Spencer" <Group54(at)mm2k.net> |
| Subject: | Re: That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
Windshield adhesive tape... comes in a roll like caulk. Find it at
autobody supply stores. Made by 3M etc.
David J. Spencer
Beech Super III
djs(at)Group54.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: That "hole filling goopy stuff'.....
(mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)"
>
> Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, help
> please!.....Built all those nice holes thru the firewall, ran a plethora
> of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
> However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
> whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
> things full of? Be gentle please.
>
> Criteria.....ability to 'work it in', reasonable temperature resistance,
> 'permanent' softness in case I need to rework it for more/fewer wires in
> the future, reasonably neat and nice looking. Oh, yeah, must be able to
> handle metric and imperial sized holes.....
>
> I've seen high temp red silicon (?) used, but the end product always
> looks messy.
>
> Mike
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Revision 10 - Chapter 17 PDF file hosed up. |
To Bob George and AeroElectric Listers:
Bob wrote to bring a problem to my attention concerning the
way Chapter 17 in the Rev 9 update was assembled by Acrobat.
I found the problem (foggy weather between the headphones)
and recompiled the .pdf file at:
http://209.134.106.21/articles/Rev9/ch17-9.pdf
. . . any of you who downloaded this document as part of
the update to your Revision 8 books are invited to download
the document again for reprinting.
>Bob,
>Thanks for the quick reply. I guess my 32 years as an IBM Systems Engineer
>(many of them spent updating Operating System technical manuals) is still
>with me.
>
>3) Chapter 17. My text has a full page 15, no page 16. The last paragraph in
>page 15 is as follows:
>
>for the benefits. Who knows, he might even order up his own kit.
I checked the .pdf file and found that WordPerfect hosed the chapter's
alignment when the printer option was changed from a Laserjet to
Acrobat distiller. All the words and figures are there but they've
been seriously moved around to where the figures don't coordinate
with adjacent text and the font got substituted. Thanks for the
heads up on this.
I've recompiled the thing using different drivers and got it
to come together like the printed book version so that it
will match the index of effective pages -AND- leave the figures
where they belong. Try downloading it again.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
>
>Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, help
>please!.....Built all those nice holes thru the firewall, ran a plethora
>of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
>However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
>whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
>things full of? Be gentle please.
>
>Criteria.....ability to 'work it in', reasonable temperature resistance,
>'permanent' softness in case I need to rework it for more/fewer wires in
>the future, reasonably neat and nice looking. Oh, yeah, must be able to
>handle metric and imperial sized holes.....
>
>I've seen high temp red silicon (?) used, but the end product always
>looks messy.
>
>Mike
See:
http://www.firestopit.com/sealants.htm
http://www.firestopit.com/silicone_sealant.htm
http://www.envirograf.com/products/product060.html
http://www.uniquefirestop.com/fill_kit.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Spencer" <Group54(at)mm2k.net> |
| Subject: | Re: That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
One more time...
Windshield adhesive tape... comes in a roll like caulk. Looks like black
caulk, stays flexible, is resistant to oil, gas, H2O2, will cure warts, will
stick to your plane.
Find it at any non-FAA approved autobody supply stores. Made by 3M etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: That "hole filling goopy stuff'.....
>
(mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)"
> >
> >Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, help
> >please!.....Built all those nice holes thru the firewall, ran a plethora
> >of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
> >However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
> >whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
> >things full of? Be gentle please.
> >
> >Criteria.....ability to 'work it in', reasonable temperature resistance,
> >'permanent' softness in case I need to rework it for more/fewer wires in
> >the future, reasonably neat and nice looking. Oh, yeah, must be able to
> >handle metric and imperial sized holes.....
> >
> >I've seen high temp red silicon (?) used, but the end product always
> >looks messy.
> >
> >Mike
>
> See:
>
> http://www.firestopit.com/sealants.htm
> http://www.firestopit.com/silicone_sealant.htm
> http://www.envirograf.com/products/product060.html
> http://www.uniquefirestop.com/fill_kit.htm
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitors (was Re: VLM-14 Components and |
Installation)
Ask Rob, the developper. I think he will sell you a black and white, but he
is currently developping a color screen. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Engine Monitors (was Re: VLM-14 Components and
Installation)
>
> Rion, I have seen the picture of the ACS2000 before, and it looks very
> nice, but is it for sale? I have not inquired about it recently but over
> a year ago when I looked at it, it was not available for purchase yet.
> Anybody know if you can buy one and what the price is? Probes included??
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finish kit on order...
> _______
> From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
>
>
> I meant to say check out the engine monitor at
> http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/ACS2000.html Sorry. Rion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: VLM-14 Components and Installation
>
>
> >
> > Guys, there is an ammeter under development for the EIS 4000. Not sure
> > exactly how it will work or what it will include, but many builders
> have
> > asked for it so they are putting it in. I discussed it with the owner
> at
> > OSH this year (I think his name was Greg....you can call or e-mail him
> > from the Grand Rapids website....he is very helpful and responsive to
> > customer input). I plan to purchase the EIS 4000 for my RV-8A and
> > consider it the best system for the money. It already does more than
> the
> > Rocky Mountain unit (4 cylinder graphical leaning display for example)
> > and you don't have to build it. Cost is comparable to the R.M. unit.
> > The ammeter was the only thing lacking. As soon as I pay for my engine
> > overhaul and the ammeter function has been developed I will order one.
> > The ammeter function may already be available....contact Greg to get
> the
> > status.
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A finish kit on order...
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
"Toni Kerr" , "Mike Kane" ,
"Robin Harina" ,
"Cindy Hagen" , "Gary Gentry" ,
"Katie Cirando" ,
"Tim Bryan" ,
| Subject: | Fw: TECHNOLOGY for COUNTRY FOLKS |
Thought you might find this funny.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IK Technologies - Ralph Krongold" <2pilots(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi Listers -
Those of you who are in the market for an engine monitor might want to check
out the IK2000 Flight & Engine Monitor (www.i-ktechnologies.com). For $1999
($2199 for 6-cylinder system) + sensors, you'll get a compact,
fault-tolerant instrument that will monitor and display KIAS, altitude, RPM,
manifold pressure, oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temperature, voltage,
fuel flow (gph & percent of fuel remaining), as well as 4 or 6 CHTs & EGTs.
Has an Altitude Variation feature and more. Most parameters are displayed
both graphically (on bright tri-colored vertical LED bar graphs) AND
numerically (on a large-character LCD display). Fits into a standard radio
rack and weighs only 3 lbs. Works with all engines -- including Rotax,
Jabiru, Franklin, etc.
Ralph Krongold
2pilots(at)mediaone.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W T Bartlett" <wtbartlett(at)Prodigy.net> |
in the lower right you can see a bowden cable coming through the firewall.
The cover is pressed on a crude die made from scraps of stainless cut from
firewall. it has three scraps of the silicon used for engine baffles punched
with a hole cutter inside. A diagonal cut to the center allows them to be
slipped over wire bundles/cables. The disks are smeared with silconseal
(bathtub caulk) in this case red, and put inside of the cover and pop
riveted in place. The silicon squeezes out and is easily wiped off with a
paper towel when wet. The other stuff in the picture is the shroud over my
oil cooler which regulates the oil temp and can give more me more cabin heat
in the winter.
Bill N7WB
>Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, >help
> please!.....Built all those nice holes through the firewall, ran a
plethora
> of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
> However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
> whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
> things full of?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse block placement in RV4 |
Listers:
I am finally installing my electrical system. In an RV4 there is
precious little room and I am running an all electric system with fuse
blocks for circuit protection. I do not need to access the fuses during
flight. The cheek wells are available and I am evaluating the placement
of the fuse blocks (both essential and main) in the wells. An external
access door would be fabricated. I have considered placing the blocks
behind the instrument panel but taking the multitude of screws out to
remove the anterior skin is too much work to replace a fuse or to simply
check the system. I realize that more wire would be used. I would
appreciate any ideas here. Also, Thank s Bob Nuckolls, for the newest
revisions and access to them. Your support is one the bright spots of
building an aircraft. Without this kind of help, many of us would be too
confused to go on.
Dave Aronson
RV-4
N504RV
electrical system and we fly!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block placement in RV4 |
On 11/18 Dave Aronson wrote:
> Listers:
> I am finally installing my electrical system. In an RV4 there is
> precious little room and I am running an all electric system with fuse
> blocks for circuit protection. I do not need to access the fuses during
> flight..........
I have not tried this but have often thought a good mounting for Bob's fuse
blocks would be on a panel slightly larger than the blocks and hinged to an
upper longeron. In the stowed position (parallel to the floor fuses up) it
could be secured by a cam lock/screw-nut plate or something. In the service
position it would drop down to a vertical position for fuse inspection or
maintenance.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
RV4 250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald A. Cox" <racox(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/17/01 |
> From: "Mike & Lee Anne (mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)" <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: That "hole filling goopy stuff'.....
>
(mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)"
>
> Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, help
> please!.....Built all those nice holes thru the firewall, ran a plethora
> of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
> However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
> whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
> things full of? Be gentle please.
>
> Criteria.....ability to 'work it in', reasonable temperature resistance,
> 'permanent' softness in case I need to rework it for more/fewer wires in
> the future, reasonably neat and nice looking. Oh, yeah, must be able to
> handle metric and imperial sized holes.....
>
> I've seen high temp red silicon (?) used, but the end product always
> looks messy.
>
> Mike
Mike:
The Glasair folks use a 3M Fire Barrier Caulk (CP-25?), and whatever you
choose to use should have similar qualities.
Remember, it's not just the airflow, CO etc. Stuff DOES catch fire out
there, occasionally. You MUST have a good fire barrier of some sort, or
your firewall is just a mounting bulkhead. A nice airflow fed fuel fire
would make short work of most "stuffing" you might put in there...
The 3M stuff is a product Glasair used to sell with their kits (they
probably still do), and I have just found it at Home Depot (in the
electrical department) for about $13 a tube (caulk gun tube). The stuff
isn't exactly clean, either, (kinda messy) but it works, and can fill all
those little holes.
The red silicone stuff won't block an actual fire for long. It'll just
survive higher temps than the regular stuff will in a hot environment.
For fire protection, you need something really fireproof.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block placement in RV4 |
I'm getting close to fuse block(s) mounting myself and am considering
horizontally mounted flush with the bottom of the instrument panel , fuse
down, in front of the right stick on the RV-6, but on hinges so that it's
normally out of sight but, when either released or perhaps just pulled down
and aft on its forward edge, it swings into view.
Don't know yet if it'll work. The tabs and their connectors would have to be
kept away from the instrument panel metal and any metallic components such
as switches and radio racks behind the panel. To reduce stress on the wiring
when the block is swung, the wires would have to be bundled and routed as
close to the hinge pivot as possible.
Also, the effort require to remove or replace a fuse may require two hands
now that the fuse block itself is not rigidly mounted.
Even with these things to consider, I still think it's worth a try.I spent a
lifetime arched backward over that spar with the blood running out of my
arms while they were over my head up behind that panel while wiring up a
friend's -6A QB and am probably overly paranoid about trying to avoid any
unnecessary trips there on my own plane.Now, about that battery position...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block placement in RV4
>
> On 11/18 Dave Aronson wrote:
>
> > Listers:
> > I am finally installing my electrical system. In an RV4 there is
> > precious little room and I am running an all electric system with fuse
> > blocks for circuit protection. I do not need to access the fuses during
> > flight..........
>
> I have not tried this but have often thought a good mounting for Bob's
fuse
> blocks would be on a panel slightly larger than the blocks and hinged to
an
> upper longeron. In the stowed position (parallel to the floor fuses up)
it
> could be secured by a cam lock/screw-nut plate or something. In the
service
> position it would drop down to a vertical position for fuse inspection or
> maintenance.
>
> Dick Sipp
> N250DS
> RV4 250 hours
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block placement in RV4 |
Scott:
Thanks for the input. I found an example of what you and others have
suggested. Go to http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page89.html
to see the example. I believe that it is in an 8.
Dave Aronson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block placement in RV4
>
> I'm getting close to fuse block(s) mounting myself and am considering
> horizontally mounted flush with the bottom of the instrument panel , fuse
> down, in front of the right stick on the RV-6, but on hinges so that it's
> normally out of sight but, when either released or perhaps just pulled
down
> and aft on its forward edge, it swings into view.
> Don't know yet if it'll work. The tabs and their connectors would have to
be
> kept away from the instrument panel metal and any metallic components such
> as switches and radio racks behind the panel. To reduce stress on the
wiring
> when the block is swung, the wires would have to be bundled and routed as
> close to the hinge pivot as possible.
> Also, the effort require to remove or replace a fuse may require two hands
> now that the fuse block itself is not rigidly mounted.
> Even with these things to consider, I still think it's worth a try.I spent
a
> lifetime arched backward over that spar with the blood running out of my
> arms while they were over my head up behind that panel while wiring up a
> friend's -6A QB and am probably overly paranoid about trying to avoid any
> unnecessary trips there on my own plane.Now, about that battery
position...
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block placement in RV4
>
>
>
> >
> > On 11/18 Dave Aronson wrote:
> >
> > > Listers:
> > > I am finally installing my electrical system. In an RV4 there is
> > > precious little room and I am running an all electric system with fuse
> > > blocks for circuit protection. I do not need to access the fuses
during
> > > flight..........
> >
> > I have not tried this but have often thought a good mounting for Bob's
> fuse
> > blocks would be on a panel slightly larger than the blocks and hinged to
> an
> > upper longeron. In the stowed position (parallel to the floor fuses up)
> it
> > could be secured by a cam lock/screw-nut plate or something. In the
> service
> > position it would drop down to a vertical position for fuse inspection
or
> > maintenance.
> >
> > Dick Sipp
> > N250DS
> > RV4 250 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block placement in RV4 |
I am wiring my RV-4 with the fuse blocks recommended in the AeroElectric
Connection. I built a horizontal platform that runs from the uppermost
frame angle of the firewall to the top of the small bulkhead behind the
bottom of the firewall. The fuse blocks (busses) are on top of the platform
with the fuses on the top. It is not hinged, so the fuses won't be
accessible in flight, but with the RV-4, you can remove the top forward
fuselage skin to access them quite easily on the ground. The battery buss
is closest to the panel, then the main buss, then the essential buss
furthest forward. This works because I have a vertical center console
running up to the small bulkhead behind the bottom of the firewall so I can
run the thick #8 cables from the battery and alternator up to the busses
behind the console. I suppose you could also run them up the sides in
front of the bulkhead. There are a LOT of wires, and I think it would be
impractical to hinge your fuse block platform. I don't feel it is necessary
to access my fuses in flight. If you want to be able to check the fuse and
replace it in flight, then I think you need to mount them in plain sight
where you can see which fuse you are pulling, your circuit label, and see
the slot to put the replacement fuse back in.
A friend mounted his fuse blocks vertically on the side fuselage skin of
his RV-4 as high as he could. They are just as easily accessible when you
remove the top skin. Even though he can reach them in flight, I don't think
he can see, pull and replace them in flight. If circuit maintenance in
flight is a must for you, then I think you should use circuit breakers. I
do have two circuit breakers in my system: for alternator disconnect and
for trim servo disconnect. Both are redundant with the fuses for those
circuits and are merely so I can disconnect those two circuits in case of a
runaway alternator or trim servo.
I am still wiring my project, so mine is NOT a proven set-up. My friend
IS flying, and he is very happy with his arrangement. Good luck, Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block placement in RV4
>
> I'm getting close to fuse block(s) mounting myself and am considering
> horizontally mounted flush with the bottom of the instrument panel , fuse
> down, in front of the right stick on the RV-6, but on hinges so that it's
> normally out of sight but, when either released or perhaps just pulled
down
> and aft on its forward edge, it swings into view.
> Don't know yet if it'll work. The tabs and their connectors would have to
be
> kept away from the instrument panel metal and any metallic components such
> as switches and radio racks behind the panel. To reduce stress on the
wiring
> when the block is swung, the wires would have to be bundled and routed as
> close to the hinge pivot as possible.
> Also, the effort require to remove or replace a fuse may require two hands
> now that the fuse block itself is not rigidly mounted.
> Even with these things to consider, I still think it's worth a try.I spent
a
> lifetime arched backward over that spar with the blood running out of my
> arms while they were over my head up behind that panel while wiring up a
> friend's -6A QB and am probably overly paranoid about trying to avoid any
> unnecessary trips there on my own plane.Now, about that battery
position...
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block placement in RV4
>
>
>
> >
> > On 11/18 Dave Aronson wrote:
> >
> > > Listers:
> > > I am finally installing my electrical system. In an RV4 there is
> > > precious little room and I am running an all electric system with fuse
> > > blocks for circuit protection. I do not need to access the fuses
during
> > > flight..........
> >
> > I have not tried this but have often thought a good mounting for Bob's
> fuse
> > blocks would be on a panel slightly larger than the blocks and hinged to
> an
> > upper longeron. In the stowed position (parallel to the floor fuses up)
> it
> > could be secured by a cam lock/screw-nut plate or something. In the
> service
> > position it would drop down to a vertical position for fuse inspection
or
> > maintenance.
> >
> > Dick Sipp
> > N250DS
> > RV4 250 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
Where do I find the pictures Bill?
Thanks,
J.A.
----- Original Message -----
From: W T Bartlett
Subject: AeroElectric-List:
gy.net>
in the lower right you can see a bowden cable coming through the firewall.
The cover is pressed on a crude die made from scraps of stainless cut from
firewall. it has three scraps of the silicon used for engine baffles punched
with a hole cutter inside. A diagonal cut to the center allows them to be
slipped over wire bundles/cables. The disks are smeared with silconseal
(bathtub caulk) in this case red, and put inside of the cover and pop
riveted in place. The silicon squeezes out and is easily wiped off with a
paper towel when wet. The other stuff in the picture is the shroud over my
oil cooler which regulates the oil temp and can give more me more cabin heat
in the winter.
Bill N7WB
>Bob and all those others with greater experience than I, >help
> please!.....Built all those nice holes through the firewall, ran a
plethora
> of wires, then put stainless covers on them with nice rubber grommets.
> However, there is still "air space" that would allow hot air, CO, or
> whatever into the cockpit. What does the world suggest I go stick these
> things full of?
=
=
=
=
c-list
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Hi Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st
I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support
the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a
minute to show their appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of
Contributors? As a number of people have pointed out, the List seems at
least, if not a whole lot more, valuable as a building/flying/recreating
tool as a typical your magazine subscription. We won't even talk about a
newsstand price... :-)
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to
support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa or M/C on the SSL Secure
Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
!! Don't forget !!
Andy Gold of the Builder's Book Store ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) has
generously donated a FREE copy of Van's new "The RV Story" video to anyone
making a Contribution of $50 or more to support the Lists. For complete
information on the _awesome_ offer, please see this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113629625?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=23392130806?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
To make sure you get your video, be sure to follow the instructions at the
URL above carefully!
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution
thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support
that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a
little comment about how the Lists have helped you! I love to feel the
love... :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Missing Pages from Revision 10 books |
Just found that every copy of the latest revision is missing
chapter chapter 5 is missing. My momma told me there would be
days like this.
Just picked up the balance of 1000 books. I checked the original
art and chapter 5 is missing. In the past, when the printing
didn't match the assembly sheet, they would give me a call.
Didn't happen this time. However, they DID charge me for
printing chapter 5!
The chapter has been posted as part of the Rev 9 update package
on my website at:
http://209.134.106.21/articles/Rev9/ch5-9.pdf
I'll get back down to the print shop in a few minutes and
have them print the missing pages and put them individually
in tight envelopes suitable for mailing. If anyone who has
received one of the first wave of shipments and cannot or is
unwilling to download the missing chapter (there are only 7
pages), drop me a note and I'll mail one out.
Sorry 'bout this . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Nowakowski" <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/19/2001 02:14:19 PM
Bob or anybody else who can offer assistance,
I have an RV-6 that I just completed. I have a radio noise (transmission)
problem. When I am at idle power on the ground or when the power is pulled
back (in the pattern) my radio transmission's are crystal clear. When at
cruising poser or full power (climbing out) there is so much static in my
transmissions that they are barely intelligible. I was thinking the noise
was coming from my ignition system so I tried to individually turn off the
magneto on the left side then my electronic ignition that is on the right
side. In each case I still got the static (I'm not going to turn them both
off at the same time, so don't try to talk me into that;-)). I can hear
other transmissions clearly all the time. How do I troubleshoot this
problem? Add a filter? Where? any help would be most appreciated.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Bob or anybody else who can offer assistance,
>
>I have an RV-6 that I just completed. I have a radio noise (transmission)
>problem. When I am at idle power on the ground or when the power is pulled
>back (in the pattern) my radio transmission's are crystal clear. When at
>cruising poser or full power (climbing out) there is so much static in my
>transmissions that they are barely intelligible. I was thinking the noise
>was coming from my ignition system so I tried to individually turn off the
>magneto on the left side then my electronic ignition that is on the right
>side. In each case I still got the static (I'm not going to turn them both
>off at the same time, so don't try to talk me into that;-)). I can hear
>other transmissions clearly all the time. How do I troubleshoot this
>problem? Add a filter? Where? any help would be most appreciated.....don
>
>Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
>Telephone (802)288-3359,
Don, Define "static" . . . static to me is the stuff you hear
on AM radio when a thunderstorm is in progress. I'm not clear
if the problem you describe is what YOU hear or what others
are hearing when you try to talk to them.
First thing to try is shut off the alternator and run
battery only . . . you may not hearing alternator generated
noise rather noise generated by a loose connection in the
alternator system.
Do you have my book? Chapter 16 describes a technique for
deducing antagonists and propagation paths in situations
such as this.
First we need to know if it's a receiving or transmitting
problem.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block placement in RV4 |
> I'm getting close to fuse block(s) mounting myself and am considering
> horizontally mounted flush with the bottom of the instrument panel , fuse
> down, in front of the right stick on the RV-6, but on hinges so that it's
> normally out of sight but, when either released or perhaps just pulled
down
> and aft on its forward edge, it swings into view.
> Don't know yet if it'll work. The tabs and their connectors would have to
be
> kept away from the instrument panel metal and any metallic components such
> as switches and radio racks behind the panel. To reduce stress on the
wiring
> when the block is swung, the wires would have to be bundled and routed as
> close to the hinge pivot as possible.
> Also, the effort require to remove or replace a fuse may require two hands
> now that the fuse block itself is not rigidly mounted.
This is exactly how I did it in my -6. The fuse panel is hinged to the
subpanel, and the camlocks attach to brackets riveted to the instrument
panel bottom. In the stowed position the fuse panel is horizontal with the
fuses pointing up. To open just twist the camlocks and it swings down
between your knees, fuses facing aft. You have to crane your neck a bit to
see all the fuses and labels from a seated position. They are easily
changeable from the pilot's seat although you would probably have to do so
by feel if you were flying the airplane solo.
There is another advantage to this arrangement for those who, like me,
riveted on the fwd skin and mounted the canopy before doing the wiring. Most
of the panel wiring right there in right there in front of you where you can
do 90% of the work from a seated position. I actually didn't have to climb
on my back nearly as often as I thought I would.
It does take some care and planning for where you route the fuse panel wires
to clear the instruments and in my case the row of toggle switches at the
bottom of the panel.
I'll take and post some pictures.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | NAV VOR antenna installation |
Does anyone know the correct way to hook your coax cable up to the VOR
antenna? Do you just run the ground to one connector and the inner
shielded wiring to the other connector?
REgards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com> |
Bob, Can't get mail through to you. Is it me?
from APX1-02-170.PDX.DU.TELEPORT.COM [216.26.61.170]
----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to dr-teeth.eucleides.com.:
>>> MAIL From:
<<< 550 ORBZ Open Relay see <http://www.orbz.org/b.php?207.217.120.179>
554 ... Service unavailable
From: Gary Graham <beeb(at)teleport.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 13:55:43 -0800
Subject: CH 17
Bob, Fig. 17.1 Alt/F/B/?????????
FYI, Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miles McCallum" <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
Just about any silicon sealant will do an excellent job - in my previous
life (preparing racing motorcycles at international level) we used it to
seal exhausts, including the head/header pipe junction with no problems at
all. In fact, I never took one apart and found the sealant burned.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ED KOWALSKI" <salned(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Press to test warning light |
I'm confused on how to wire the MS25041 press to test indicators. I want the pitot
heat light to be on with the switch and yet it seems you need
power to the light all the time for the press to test feature. I would appreciate
any help you can give.
Ed Kowalski
RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
#80127
Getting ready to Fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: That "hole filling goopy stuff'..... |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miles McCallum" <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: That "hole filling goopy stuff'.....
>
> Just about any silicon sealant will do an excellent job - in my previous
> life (preparing racing motorcycles at international level) we used it to
> seal exhausts, including the head/header pipe junction with no problems at
> all. In fact, I never took one apart and found the sealant burned.
>
> Miles
If I remember correctly, the original question of this thread was sealing
holes in the firewal.
Firewall integrity is a matter of life & death if there is a fuel or oil
fire in the engine compartment. In military fighters, we had "Fire" warning
lights and "Overheat" lights. Overheat was for high temp air leaks -
exhaust leaks would be our equivalent. "Fire" means fire - flames.
Rubber grommets and silicon rubber sealant will not save your life by
keeping blow-torch-like flames from coming thru the firewall around your
wires, controls, and tubing.
- Use the "fire resistant putty" stuff (3M and other brands already
mentioned in this thread - "itumescent" is the characteristic you want: It
chars but does not burn or melt.l
-- Stuff used successfully in an "exhaust manifold gasket"
application is NOT "also" OK for firewall sealing.
David Carter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | check this out . . . |
Yesterday I checked out this article, and emailed the newsday folks a letter
to the editor about it. I got a phone call back from an actual person who
told me they were considering it for publication. I don't know if that
means much, but I guess I'll have to look at their site again next week.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 11:40 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: check this out . . .
>
>
> III"
>
> This article describes the efforts of a totally volunteer
> commission of current and former law enforcement officials who
> opined, "Private airplanes can take off totally unsupervised,
> leaving a loophole the size of the Lincoln Tunnel,"
>
> They recommend Requiring national identification cards and
> upgrading security at what they described as the "totally
> unsupervised" area of private aviation . . ."
>
> Here's the whole article.
>
> http://www.newsday.com/news/local/newyork/ny-cards14.story
>
> In the aftermath of 9/11 the uninformed and paranoid citizens
> of title and ill-bestowed power are crawling out of the
> woodwork. With a paltry 600,000 pilots and 150,000 airplanes
> (most of which are non-revenue generating pleasure machines)
> it won't take too many vocal millions to have serious and
> lasting consequences to our hobby. Be vigilant my friends
> and if you value your freedom of the air, be ready to
> fight.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
> ============
> [#####------------------------10.5%----------------------------]
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Kluijfhout, PE1RUI" <jessevli(at)zeelandnet.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Press to test warning light |
Hello Ed,
Youre right.. You will need two positive voltages
One switched for the light on/of and one constant
positive voltage for the press too test function.
The share there common ground.
Or you would need one positive voltage on the common
point, and have you pitot heater switch, switch the
ground, at least for the ON signal. If you choose the
correct switch the heater still can be switched within
the positive voltage line. The thirth point would be
constant ground in that situation. I dont know the
number of the switch now, but I supose you know,
or know how to find out.. If not, dont hesitate too
send me an E-mail.
I would just use an extra positive voltage wire, for
you press-to-test function. As it is the least amount
of work to get it working propperly.
Regards,
Jesse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NAV VOR antenna installation |
>
>Does anyone know the correct way to hook your coax cable up to the VOR
>antenna? Do you just run the ground to one connector and the inner
>shielded wiring to the other connector?
>
>REgards,
>Tom Velvick
>Peoria, AZ
Yup. That works. Don't connect the shield to aircraft
ground, JUST one side of the antenna.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Bob, Can't get mail through to you. Is it me?
I got this one. I think your ISP's email SMTP server
has been flagged as vulnerable to open relay attack
by spam mailers. Try nuckolls(at)kscable.com . . . they
don't filter against the violations list. In the mean
time, send a copy of the bounced note from my
aeroelectric.com address to support@ your service
provider's address. They should fix the problem with
their e-mail server.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/19/01 |
TASERS IN THE COCKPIT
This may have been covered before on this forum, but, I've probably missed
it....
While I've got an RV-6 I like to fly for fun, I also fly a Boeing 777 for a
'major airline' as we like to say. My airline has decided to equip the
cockpit with Taser guns... just in case Osama's friends try to stop by for a
'chat'...
The Taser gun shoots two projecticles with basically straight fish hooks
on the ends, and a 50,000 volt zap between them.
The question has come up: WHAT HAPPENS IF THE TASER PROBES HIT THE CIRCUIT
BREAKER PANEL?
I'm open to any and all opinions on this topic. The pilots really want
to know.
I suggested the wiring from the power busses and to the individual
circuits is behind the panel, and insulated from it. It should not be
affected. Further, most of the c/b panel is plastic -- labeling panels and
such. Probably would get scorched between the two probes, but elsewhere not
much affected.
Further, even if the two probes hit aircraft metal, it would basically
short out the 50,000 volt zap real quick, be of the same potential, and
therefore not really pass the jolt along anywhere else. I'm thinking the
50,000 volts is a potential difference with respect to the 'other' probe, not
necessarily aircraft 'ground', and the aircraft systems would most likely not
be affected.
Am I wrong? Should I be worried?
Thanks for any answers you may have!
BTW, I think at the moment I go firing a Taser at some bad guy invading my
cockpit, I'd not be worried about what's gonna happen to the Circuit breaker
panel in the least! But, some guys worry about this stuff -- primarily those
who still want real guns in the cockpit.
Dan Eikleberry
Las Vegas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ED KOWALSKI" <salned(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Press to test warning light |
Jesse,
Thanks for the reply and your help. I thought what you have suggested would
be the best way to go, but I'm not an engineer and only a first
time builder. I need what ever help I canget. Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!!!......Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Kluijfhout, PE1RUI
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Press to test warning light
evli(at)zeelandnet.nl>
Hello Ed,
Youre right.. You will need two positive voltages
One switched for the light on/of and one constant
positive voltage for the press too test function.
The share there common ground.
Or you would need one positive voltage on the common
point, and have you pitot heater switch, switch the
ground, at least for the ON signal. If you choose the
correct switch the heater still can be switched within
the positive voltage line. The thirth point would be
constant ground in that situation. I dont know the
number of the switch now, but I supose you know,
or know how to find out.. If not, dont hesitate too
send me an E-mail.
I would just use an extra positive voltage wire, for
you press-to-test function. As it is the least amount
of work to get it working propperly.
Regards,
Jesse
=
=
=
=
c-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Spencer" <Group54(at)mm2k.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NAV VOR antenna installation |
Why then does my VOR antenna have two shields connected to the VOR antenna
terminals with an exposed but insulated loop of core wire between the two
shield connectors and another ground to the airframe running from a common
connection of the shields?
David J. Spencer
Beech Super III
djs(at)Group54.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: NAV VOR antenna installation
>
> >
> >Does anyone know the correct way to hook your coax cable up to the VOR
> >antenna? Do you just run the ground to one connector and the inner
> >shielded wiring to the other connector?
> >
> >REgards,
> >Tom Velvick
> >Peoria, AZ
>
> Yup. That works. Don't connect the shield to aircraft
> ground, JUST one side of the antenna.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBFLESHREN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/19/01 |
In a message dated 11/20/2001 4:33:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, DanJE(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> TASERS IN THE COCKPIT
>
Hi Dan , Chris here , I think you would have almost no damage potential from
the Taser because it is truly a "low current" device . The 777 & all modern
certificated A/C have plenty of engineering to protect against static
electricity which is pretty much all the taser puts out . As little as a half
an amp through a human heart can kill so I'm sure in this liabilty paranoid
world we live in the Taser mfg's keep the current down to prevent unintended
deaths , law suits & negative publicity for thier products. I'm an A&P &
recently retired (Pre 9-11 thankfully) from a "Major Airline" . My Dad was an
E.E. & as much as I'd like to think I know a little "bout lectricity" I'd
still like to read Electric Bob's thoughts on this. Good luck w/ the flying
career & I hope you NEVER have to use any anti-hijack protocals. Chris .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NAV VOR antenna installation |
David Spencer wrote:
>
>
> Why then does my VOR antenna have two shields connected to the VOR antenna
> terminals with an exposed but insulated loop of core wire between the two
> shield connectors and another ground to the airframe running from a common
> connection of the shields?
>
*** Hi David,
That sounds like a coax balun. Long story. Basically, for a dipole
antenna to work best, BOTH arms should be "hot". The balun ( short for
"balanced to unbalanced transformer" ) accomplishes this.
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Michael Brown... |
Hi Listers,
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael Brown of Brown
Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has generously
offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making Contributions of
$30 or more this year!
Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for
the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure
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Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
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PO Box 347
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According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings
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The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List
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Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Doble" <mark_doble(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | Fuse block location? Pilot accessible... |
Hi List,
sorry if this was covered...can't find the reference...
i'm locating my fuse blocks and i remeber reading or hearing that the FAR's
require that they be pilot accessible while in flight?? is that right? I
can't find the reference in the big book of rules...
Not that that makes a whole lot of sense...but just want to comply to get my
bird in the sky.
thanks,
Mark
Mustang II - installing electrics...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jandkstone(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/19/01 |
Dan,
Just take careful aim and put one probe in an eye, and the other in a
testicle. The CB panel will be just fine.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <DanJE(at)aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/19/01
>
> TASERS IN THE COCKPIT
>
> This may have been covered before on this forum, but, I've probably missed
> it....
>
> While I've got an RV-6 I like to fly for fun, I also fly a Boeing 777 for
a
> 'major airline' as we like to say. My airline has decided to equip the
> cockpit with Taser guns... just in case Osama's friends try to stop by for
a
> 'chat'...
>
> The Taser gun shoots two projecticles with basically straight fish
hooks
> on the ends, and a 50,000 volt zap between them.
>
> The question has come up: WHAT HAPPENS IF THE TASER PROBES HIT THE
CIRCUIT
> BREAKER PANEL?
>
> I'm open to any and all opinions on this topic. The pilots really
want
> to know.
>
> I suggested the wiring from the power busses and to the individual
> circuits is behind the panel, and insulated from it. It should not be
> affected. Further, most of the c/b panel is plastic -- labeling panels
and
> such. Probably would get scorched between the two probes, but elsewhere
not
> much affected.
> Further, even if the two probes hit aircraft metal, it would basically
> short out the 50,000 volt zap real quick, be of the same potential, and
> therefore not really pass the jolt along anywhere else. I'm thinking the
> 50,000 volts is a potential difference with respect to the 'other' probe,
not
> necessarily aircraft 'ground', and the aircraft systems would most likely
not
> be affected.
> Am I wrong? Should I be worried?
>
> Thanks for any answers you may have!
>
> BTW, I think at the moment I go firing a Taser at some bad guy invading my
> cockpit, I'd not be worried about what's gonna happen to the Circuit
breaker
> panel in the least! But, some guys worry about this stuff -- primarily
those
> who still want real guns in the cockpit.
>
> Dan Eikleberry
> Las Vegas
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? Pilot accessible... |
>
>Hi List,
>
>sorry if this was covered...can't find the reference...
>
>i'm locating my fuse blocks and i remember reading or hearing that the FAR's
>require that they be pilot accessible while in flight?? is that right? I
>can't find the reference in the big book of rules...
=====================================================================
Here's a recap of a discussion on this topic from some months ago
=====================================================================
>Its not a matter of reliability that is at issue. The regs are very specific
>and I am unwilling to chance a debate with the FAA where the odds of winning
>are ZERO.
Don't debate them, ask them to help you UNDERSTAND the
requirements . . .
>My point is the simple fact (at least in the eyes of my local FSDO) that if
>I choose to use a fuse (or a CB) for over current protection on a system
>that must be functional for that mode of flight, (like recognition lights at
>night) that over current protector must be resettable by the flight crew in
>flight.
>
>Further I have been specifically been told that I cannot get my experimental
>acft licensed if I use fuses on these circuits and the fuse is not in flight
>accessible.
Please ask them to cite the specific regulation that
requires this. Parts 23, 25 et. al. are not applicable
to EXPERIMENTAL aircraft.
>I have also been told that getting past the initial license process does not
>protect me from a later inspection that could result in being told its not
>per regs and being grounded. Like a ramp check that the FAA does from time
>to time.
Which regs? A ramp check of your experimental aircraft is
entitled only to look for registration and airworthiness
documents . . . the words EXPERIMENTAL on the side of your
airplane relieves you of all other requirements with respect
to design or condition.
>I do not have a problem with fuses nor do I think that in-flight trouble
>shooting is wise. But I also have a lot of respect for the power of the FAA
>inspector and the well known and time tested failure of winning when they
>disaree.
It may well be that your inspector has endowed himself
authority that outstrips the regulations.
I've uploaded copies of FAR 21, 23, 25, 43 and 91 to my
experimental server. These are text files that are
easily uploaded, read and searched with an ordinary
word processor of choice.
See:
http://209.134.106.21/articles/FaaDocs/far-23.txt
http://209.134.106.21/articles/FaaDocs/far-25.txt
http://209.134.106.21/articles/FaaDocs/far-21.txt
http://209.134.106.21/articles/FaaDocs/far-43.txt
http://209.134.106.21/articles/FaaDocs/far-91.txt
When I search these documents for the word "critical"
I find many, many references to aspects of the airplanes
design, performance and construction that discuss issues
surrounding structures, aerodynamics, engines and
handling qualities . . . ALL of which have to do with
ultimate controllability and endurance of airframe.
When I look for the word "failure" . . . we again
see lots of discussion about the aforementioned
hardware . . . only in part 91 did I find much discussion
about any electrical/electronics failures . . . and
these dealt mostly with procedures for communications
failure.
I also found, "In the event of failure of
any light of the anticollision light system, operation
of the aircraft may continue to a location where
repairs or replacement can be made." This means
you can continue flight to intended destination.
It's not an imperative to land quickly. Conspicuous
by it's omission is any reference to position lights
failure.
The only sentence in part 91 that carries an imperative
is where it talks about radio failure under IFR ops
in VFR conditions we read, "If the failure occurs
in VFR conditions, or if VFR conditions are
encountered after the failure, each pilot shall
continue the flight under VFR and land as soon
as practicable."
If one takes the context under which these two words
are used in the certification of production aircraft
for sale to the general public, it becomes real
clear as to what kinds of things are "critical" and
how one is expected to deal with "failure".
I think the reason that radios, instruments, whether
electrically powered or not, are not discussed in terms
of criticality is because one ASSUMES that these things
FAIL regularly . . . and that there are (or should
be) plan B alternatives in place for any single
failure.
One can LEGALLY fly IFR with a single VOR receiver if all
you intend to do is shoot a VOR approach at both
your destination and/or alternate approaches and the
weather forecasts are cooperating. Obviously not a
bright thing to do. If you can do this legally,
how "critical" can the VOR radio be in terms
of regulations?
Not very.
Fortunately now, you can carry DUAL GPS for under $200
but one VOR is still legal. Nothing in the regs speaks
to extra-ordinary effort to deal with failures (fuses
or otherwise). This has to be because these items
should NOT be critical; you simply have backups and/or
other ability to deal COMFORTABLY with the situation.
For a good rundown on what REGS apply to your task,
check out:
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/
and
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/begin.html
Look specifically in the referenced documents for
duties with respect to: Parts 21 (one or two citations),
23 (no citations), 25 (no citations), 43 (no citations),
45 (a couple of citations on markings) and 91 (a few
more citations) . . . There is very little of the
certified world that applies in a regulatory sense against
the design and construction of our airplanes.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | NAV VOR antenna installation |
>
>David Spencer wrote:
>>
>>
>> Why then does my VOR antenna have two shields connected to the VOR antenna
>> terminals with an exposed but insulated loop of core wire between the two
>> shield connectors and another ground to the airframe running from a common
>> connection of the shields?
>>
>
>*** Hi David,
>
> That sounds like a coax balun. Long story. Basically, for a dipole
>antenna to work best, BOTH arms should be "hot". The balun ( short for
>"balanced to unbalanced transformer" ) accomplishes this.
A balun is the elegant way to connect coaxial cable to
a pair of "cat whiskers" type VOR antenna. We did some
studies on this topic while I was at Cessna about 1967.
We checked antenna performance with and without the
balun and found no discernable effects with respect to
VOR receiver performance . . . the flags on the indicators
would lift at about the same distance from the station
whether or not a balun was used.
While laboratory equipment would confirm a prediction
of lower standing wave ratio, our management decided that
our customers were not Hewlett-Packard antenna analyzers
but pilots. If the pilots couldn't tell whether or not
a balun was installed on their airplane, then why sell
them one?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | check this out . . . |
>
>Yesterday I checked out this article, and emailed the newsday folks a letter
>to the editor about it. I got a phone call back from an actual person who
>told me they were considering it for publication. I don't know if that
>means much, but I guess I'll have to look at their site again next week.
Thanks for your attention and effort. It may not HELP get the
word out but one thing is for sure . . . if we don't bang
on a wash-tub or two, the word NEVER gets out.
Bob . . .
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
>> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 11:40 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: check this out . . .
>>
>>
>> III"
>>
>> This article describes the efforts of a totally volunteer
>> commission of current and former law enforcement officials who
>> opined, "Private airplanes can take off totally unsupervised,
>> leaving a loophole the size of the Lincoln Tunnel,"
>>
>> They recommend Requiring national identification cards and
>> upgrading security at what they described as the "totally
>> unsupervised" area of private aviation . . ."
>>
>> Here's the whole article.
>>
>> http://www.newsday.com/news/local/newyork/ny-cards14.story
>>
>> In the aftermath of 9/11 the uninformed and paranoid citizens
>> of title and ill-bestowed power are crawling out of the
>> woodwork. With a paltry 600,000 pilots and 150,000 airplanes
>> (most of which are non-revenue generating pleasure machines)
>> it won't take too many vocal millions to have serious and
>> lasting consequences to our hobby. Be vigilant my friends
>> and if you value your freedom of the air, be ready to
>> fight.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ////
>> (o o)
>> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
>> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
>> < show me where I'm wrong. >
>> =================================
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Dan:
This is really a question for your airline pilot association. I
was Director, Security, for CALPA here in Canada for four years - ending
with the incorporation of 'security' barriers 01JAN72. We studied TASERs for
several months during the hi-jack hysteria.
Typically they deliver a SMALL frequency to the body (preferably
darts a few feet apart) which confuses the nervous stem while the trigger is
held. This is important because holding too long can interfere with
recovery - deadly in some cases. But it gives time for handcuffing etc.
The signal is tiny and would not interfere unless it acquired
some inner control circuit. I wouldn't concern myself with the signal
problems - proper use is paramount - misuse is deadly - so training matters.
Cheers,
Ferg Europa A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Leonard" <dleonar1(at)maine.rr.com> |
Could somebody please explain impedance to me.
I understand resistance/ ohms, current, amperage,voltage, A/C, D/C, single
phase, relays, capacitors,transformers, and seem to know enough to be
dangerous to myself and others in many different types of electrical
componentry. I have wired houses and troubleshoot machine tools and various
charging systems with reasonable sucess. I own numerous multimeters, and
understand wiring diagrams, but the impedance concept still eludes me. I
can usually keep the smoke inside most of my electronics(on a good day..some
smoke has escaped I admit).
Thanks, Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse block location? Pilot accessible... |
I don't believe there is any such requirement for homebuilts. If you were
doing an airplane that was required to meet the FAR's, you would have to
identify what equipment is essential to the safety of flight. The fuses or
circuit breakers for this equipment would have to be accessible to the
pilot.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
> Hi List,
>
> i'm locating my fuse blocks and i remeber reading or hearing that
> the FAR's
> require that they be pilot accessible while in flight?? is that right? I
> can't find the reference in the big book of rules...
>
> thanks,
>
> Mark
> Mustang II - installing electrics...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
Hi Dave;
Here's my quick try for you.
Impedance is the same as resistance but in an alternating current situation.
Think of it as a resistance that depends on the frequency of the AC current
flowing in the wire.
Things like coils have low or no resistance in a direct current situation.
Put an AC current into a coil and the changing current causes magnetic
fields in the coil which set up an opposing current flow - to the current
source, this looks like a resistance.
Similarly, putting a AC current into a capacitor causes the capacitor to
charge and discharge in a manner which looks like "resistance" to the
current source.
In both cases, the "apparent" resistance (= impedance) varies with the
frequency of the applied voltage/current.
A piece of coaxial cable can be seen as a variety of capacitor so this is
why coax can be said to have a characteristic "impedance".
I have glossed over how current in a capacitor and an inductor (coil) vary
with the applied voltage (one leads, the other lags) which leads into things
like phase angles and a fairly complex analysis of AC circuits.
Hope this helps.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Man.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David A. Leonard" <dleonar1(at)maine.rr.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Impedance?
>
> Could somebody please explain impedance to me.
>
> I understand resistance/ ohms, current, amperage,voltage, A/C, D/C,
single
> phase, relays, capacitors,transformers, and seem to know enough to be
> dangerous to myself and others in many different types of electrical
> componentry. I have wired houses and troubleshoot machine tools and
various
> charging systems with reasonable sucess. I own numerous multimeters, and
> understand wiring diagrams, but the impedance concept still eludes me.
I
> can usually keep the smoke inside most of my electronics(on a good
day..some
> smoke has escaped I admit).
>
> Thanks, Dave Leonard
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Housman" <ROB-HOUSMAN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse block location? Pilot accessible... |
Here's the relevant (sort of) section from the FAR. Note that Part 23.1
does NOT apply to experimental aircraft. So much for the legalities.
Not having the fuses accessible in flight will avoid the temptation to
troubleshoot at a critical time when we should just "fly the airplane."
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear
90% complete, 90% to go
=A723.1 Applicability.
(a) This part prescribes airworthiness standards for the issue of type
certificates, and changes to those certificates, for airplanes in the
normal, utility, acrobatic, and commuter categories.
(b) Each person who applies under Part 21 for such a certificate or
change must show compliance with the applicable requirements of this
part.
=A723.1357 Circuit protective devices.
(a) Protective devices, such as fuses or circuit breakers, must be
installed in all electrical circuits other than --
(1) Main circuits of starter motors used during starting only; and
(2) Circuits in which no hazard is presented by their omission.
(b) A protective device for a circuit essential to flight safety may not
be used to protect any other circuit.
(c) Each resettable circuit protective device ("trip free" device in
which the tripping mechanism cannot be overridden by the operating
control) must be designed so that --
(1) A manual operation is required to restore service after tripping;
and
(2) If an overload or circuit fault exists, the device will open the
circuit regardless of the position of the operating control.
(d) If the ability to reset a circuit breaker or replace a fuse is
essential to safety in flight, that circuit breaker or fuse must be so
located and identified that it can be readily reset or replaced in
flight.
(e) For fuses identified as replaceable in flight --
(1) There must be one spare of each rating or 50 percent spare fuses of
each rating, whichever is greater; and
(2) The spare fuse(s) must be readily accessible to any required pilot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Fuse block location? Pilot accessible...
>
> I don't believe there is any such requirement for homebuilts. If you
were
> doing an airplane that was required to meet the FAR's, you would have
to
> identify what equipment is essential to the safety of flight. The
fuses or
> circuit breakers for this equipment would have to be accessible to the
> pilot.
>
> David Swartzendruber
> Wichita
>
> > Hi List,
> >
> > i'm locating my fuse blocks and i remeber reading or hearing that
> > the FAR's
> > require that they be pilot accessible while in flight?? is that
right? I
> > can't find the reference in the big book of rules...
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > Mark
> > Mustang II - installing electrics...
> >
>
>
=
[#######----------------------13.7%----------------------------]
>
=
>
=
messages.
>
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim Oke wrote:
>
> I have glossed over how current in a capacitor and an inductor (coil) vary
> with the applied voltage (one leads, the other lags) which leads into things
> like phase angles and a fairly complex analysis of AC circuits.
*** There is a rosetta stone for AC analysis. It's called "complex
numbers". He who would understand AC should review complex algebra ( it's
really not very complex :) ). And remember this:
IF YOU USE COMPLEX NUMBERS, then AC CIRCUITS OBEY OHMS LAW.
Pure capacitive reactances are at -90 degrees. Pure inductive reactances
are at +90 degrees. Pure reactances combined with resistors form "complex"
impedances with normal ohms law calculations performed with complex-number
arithmetic.
Well, the subject is really a bit bigger than one can address in a short
note, but the capitalized statement above really turned on the lights for me
in my college AC analysis class....
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kay <skay(at)optonline.net> |
I can't remember who was having trouble mounting the fuse panel, but i
think Waytekwire.com has some really nice components that would be
appropriate for aircraft. They also have a 7/8" terminal lug for whoever
was having that problem. -Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)home.com> |
Ah yes, complex number analysis, aka the story of "i" !
I thought (but not for long) about getting into lead and trailing phase
angles, phasor analysis, power factor, power factor correction, triple phase
AC and the usual stuff but decided a suitably brief description was beyond
my editing skills. Also it has been a few years since my attempts at
university level elec eng. :-)
I shall leave further comment to the pros.
Jim Oke
----- Original Message -----
From: <jerry(at)tr2.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Impedance?
>
> Jim Oke wrote:
> >
> > I have glossed over how current in a capacitor and an inductor (coil)
vary
> > with the applied voltage (one leads, the other lags) which leads into
things
> > like phase angles and a fairly complex analysis of AC circuits.
>
> *** There is a rosetta stone for AC analysis. It's called "complex
> numbers". He who would understand AC should review complex algebra ( it's
> really not very complex :) ). And remember this:
>
> IF YOU USE COMPLEX NUMBERS, then AC CIRCUITS OBEY OHMS LAW.
>
> Pure capacitive reactances are at -90 degrees. Pure inductive
reactances
> are at +90 degrees. Pure reactances combined with resistors form
"complex"
> impedances with normal ohms law calculations performed with complex-number
> arithmetic.
>
> Well, the subject is really a bit bigger than one can address in a
short
> note, but the capitalized statement above really turned on the lights for
me
> in my college AC analysis class....
>
> - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
Impedance exists and can be measured in both AC and DC circuits, not just an
"alternating current situation".
I'm not sure my rusty brain can develop the DC formula ... but here goes a try
at it. (If someone less lazy than me actually looks it up, please check this.)
For a DC circuit:
Z=(Ea-E)/I
where Z = impedance in ohms, I = current in amperes, Ea = potential in volts at
the input, and E = potential in volts at output of circuit.
Bob
Jim Oke wrote:
>
> >>>snip<<<
>
> Impedance is the same as resistance but in an alternating current situation.
> Think of it as a resistance that depends on the frequency of the AC current
> flowing in the wire.
>
> >>>snip<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DALE ALEXANDER <dalexan48(at)Prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/19/01 |
I hope someone can address the below along with Bob's response as I have a
friend with the EXACT plane and circumstances. It would be interesting to
find out what is common between the two RV-6's that would produce the same
problems.
Dale Alexander
Velocity 173 RG Elite
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise
> From: "Donald Nowakowski" <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
> 11/19/2001 02:14:19 PM
>
>
> Bob or anybody else who can offer assistance,
>
> I have an RV-6 that I just completed. I have a radio noise (transmission)
> problem. When I am at idle power on the ground or when the power is pulled
> back (in the pattern) my radio transmission's are crystal clear. When at
> cruising poser or full power (climbing out) there is so much static in my
> transmissions that they are barely intelligible. I was thinking the noise
> was coming from my ignition system so I tried to individually turn off the
> magneto on the left side then my electronic ignition that is on the right
> side. In each case I still got the static (I'm not going to turn them both
> off at the same time, so don't try to talk me into that;-)). I can hear
> other transmissions clearly all the time. How do I troubleshoot this
> problem? Add a filter? Where? any help would be most appreciated.....don
>
> Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
> Telephone (802)288-3359,
>
> "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
> Michael Collins (1987)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DALE ALEXANDER <dalexan48(at)Prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 11/20/01 |
TASERS IN THE COCKPIT
This may have been covered before on this forum, but, I've probably missed
it....
While I've got an RV-6 I like to fly for fun, I also fly a Boeing 777 for a
'major airline' as we like to say. My airline has decided to equip the
cockpit with Taser guns... just in case Osama's friends try to stop by for a
'chat'...
The Taser gun shoots two projecticles with basically straight fish hooks
on the ends, and a 50,000 volt zap between them.
The question has come up: WHAT HAPPENS IF THE TASER PROBES HIT THE
CIRCUIT
BREAKER PANEL?
I'm open to any and all opinions on this topic. The pilots really want
to know.
I suggested the wiring from the power busses and to the individual
circuits is behind the panel, and insulated from it. It should not be
affected. Further, most of the c/b panel is plastic -- labeling panels and
such. Probably would get scorched between the two probes, but elsewhere not
much affected.
Further, even if the two probes hit aircraft metal, it would basically
short out the 50,000 volt zap real quick, be of the same potential, and
therefore not really pass the jolt along anywhere else. I'm thinking the
50,000 volts is a potential difference with respect to the 'other' probe,
not
necessarily aircraft 'ground', and the aircraft systems would most likely
not
be affected.
I would like to know if Tasers are effective against flak jackets or kevlar
vests. Personally, I won't step into a commercial plane again until the
pilots are armed with lethal weapons. The flight attendents can be part of a
"layered" defense as in THEY can have the Tasers, but if all else fails, I
want the pilot to stop these SOB's dead...in cold blood...in their footsteps
Period! It's past time to worry about politically correct responses to
terrorists and hand-wringing, tonque-clucking fools who worry about what a
stray bullet may do on a potentially doomed airliner.
Dale Alexander
Velocity 173 Rg Elite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Don/Dale,
I had a radio problem that sounds similar to yours. My transmissions
were understandable on the ground (but not clear), but once airborn - while
I could hear others perfectly clear, it was rare that anyone could
understand me. I checked Antennas, connectors, etc all to no avail.
Thinking the radio transmission might be overpowered by cockpit noise I even
sprung $60 for a high noise environment microphone. No noticeable
difference. One day an A&E type was at our little airport working on one of
the FBOs plane so I mentioned my problem to him. He went out to the
airplane, pulled my Terra 760 from its rack, took out a small screwdrive
stuck it in a hole in the side and turned it approx 1/2 turn and told me to
try it. It now works fine. It turns out the "mic gain" was turned up too
high and was overmodulating the carrier wave causing "splatter" resulting in
distortion. By turning down the gain it eliminated the overmodulation and
now EVERYONE can understand me. Don't know if it would have bearing on your
problem, but thought I would mention it. Bob may have some thoughts on this
as a possible cause of your problem.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
>
> I hope someone can address the below along with Bob's response as I have a
> friend with the EXACT plane and circumstances. It would be interesting to
> find out what is common between the two RV-6's that would produce the same
> problems.
>
>
> Dale Alexander
> Velocity 173 RG Elite
>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise
> > From: "Donald Nowakowski" <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
> > 11/19/2001 02:14:19 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Bob or anybody else who can offer assistance,
> >
> > I have an RV-6 that I just completed. I have a radio noise
(transmission)
> > problem. When I am at idle power on the ground or when the power is
pulled
> > back (in the pattern) my radio transmission's are crystal clear. When at
> > cruising poser or full power (climbing out) there is so much static in
my
> > transmissions that they are barely intelligible. I was thinking the
noise
> > was coming from my ignition system so I tried to individually turn off
the
> > magneto on the left side then my electronic ignition that is on the
right
> > side. In each case I still got the static (I'm not going to turn them
both
> > off at the same time, so don't try to talk me into that;-)). I can hear
> > other transmissions clearly all the time. How do I troubleshoot this
> > problem? Add a filter? Where? any help would be most appreciated.....don
> >
> > Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
> > Telephone (802)288-3359,
> >
> > "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
> > Michael Collins (1987)
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBFLESHREN(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/21/2001 10:36:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dleonar1(at)maine.rr.com writes:
> dleonar1(at)maine.rr.com>
>
> Could somebody please explain impedance to me.
>
Hi Dave , I think we are beating a dead horse about this now but in the
simplest terms "Impedance" is the sum total of the inductive reactance ,
capacitive reactance and resistance in any given circuit . Period . Changes
in frequency only effect the inductive & capacative characteristics of a
given circuit , not the purely resistive characteristics . Think of a
capacitor as having LESS "resistance" the HIGHER the frequency goes & an
inductor as having MORE "resistance" the HIGHER the frequency goes . In a
circuit with equal amounts of capacitance & inductance thier effect is to
cancell each other out ! At very low or no frequency ( DC ) no current can
flow thru a capacitor & yet full current will flow thru an inductor . At high
frequencies the actions are completely reversed . The true confusion ( for me
anyway ) occurs when someone wants to discuss this in it's alter ego of
Conductance and Mhos. Good Luck Dave , Chris .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NAV Generator Computer Program |
Hello,
For your enjoyment and edification, I have written a computer program
that generates NAV audio. It (maybe) can be used to tweek VOR indicators
on the bench. I say *maybe* because I haven't tested it on an actual
indicator yet.
It's a little tiny Windows program ( 44K executable ). It's not fancy.
You run it, the sound comes out of the audio card, you adjust the radial
with a slider.
It uses the Windows low-level digital audio API. It runs the sound card
at 48,000 samples per second. That's the fastest documented sample rate of
my sound card, which is nothing special.
The program calculates the sound mathematically, using a sines table.
Anyway, if anybody wants to play with this thing, you can download it at
http://www.tr2.com/jerry/aviation/vorgen.exe.
- Jerry Kaidor ( jerry(at)tr2.com )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Crayon-level question re: connection to heated pitot |
tube
Bear with me, cuz I'm a novice when it comes to things electrical. :-)
I'm installing a heated pitot tube I bought from Gretz Aero...the instructions
state that the wires
to the receptacle assembly should be joined to a connector. But they don't say
what kind of
connector. Can anyone help me out?
Semper Fi
John
RV-6 (left wing)
You might be an RV builder if...you're spending Thanksgiving morning puzzling over
your project's
plans and directions.
Don't forget to contribute to Matt for the upkeep of the Lists! http://www.matronics.com
And Bob, thank you for the time and effort you put into this List. Very much appreciated!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crayon-level question re: connection to heated |
pitot tube
My Aircraft Spruce heated pitot (similar to the Gretz) came with a ceramic connector
-
actually a ceramic housing and two female sockets to hook the wires to. Then this
plugs
into the two male pins sticking out of the pitot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crayon-level question re: connection to heated pitot
tube
|
| Bear with me, cuz I'm a novice when it comes to things electrical. :-)
|
| I'm installing a heated pitot tube I bought from Gretz Aero...the instructions
state
that the wires
| to the receptacle assembly should be joined to a connector. But they don't say
what
kind of
| connector. Can anyone help me out?
|
| Semper Fi
| John
| RV-6 (left wing)
|
| You might be an RV builder if...you're spending Thanksgiving morning puzzling
over your
project's
| plans and directions.
|
| Don't forget to contribute to Matt for the upkeep of the Lists! http://www.matronics.com
|
| And Bob, thank you for the time and effort you put into this List. Very much
appreciated!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "royt.or" <royt.or(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Permanent magnet filter cap voltage requirement? |
('Lectric)Bob,
I'm confused and wanted to check on the required voltage rating for the
electrolytic filter cap for the Rotax (and other permanent magnet
alternators). Rotax call for a 25V cap. Most of the schematics in
appendix Z also call for a 25V cap. Note 20 say's the voltage
requirement ranges from 15V to 50V. The 47,000uFd cap B&C sells (PN
S251D479) and recommends for Rotax is rated at 16V.
Is a 16V capacitor acceptable in this application?
From a long time "lurker", THANKS for all your contributions.
(Building Zenair CH601HDS, Rotax 912S w/optional alternator, all
electric IFR panel).
Regards,
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Mokry <robmokry(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crayon-level question re: connection to |
heatedpitot tube
Ah that lovely ceramic/phenolic connector....do not over tighten the screws...or
you will be
testing superglue on the cracked connector!
Ronnie Brown wrote:
>
> My Aircraft Spruce heated pitot (similar to the Gretz) came with a ceramic connector
-
> actually a ceramic housing and two female sockets to hook the wires to. Then
this plugs
> into the two male pins sticking out of the pitot.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
> To:
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crayon-level question re: connection to heated pitot
tube
>
> |
> | Bear with me, cuz I'm a novice when it comes to things electrical. :-)
> |
> | I'm installing a heated pitot tube I bought from Gretz Aero...the instructions
state
> that the wires
> | to the receptacle assembly should be joined to a connector. But they don't
say what
> kind of
> | connector. Can anyone help me out?
> |
> | Semper Fi
> | John
> | RV-6 (left wing)
> |
> | You might be an RV builder if...you're spending Thanksgiving morning puzzling
over your
> project's
> | plans and directions.
> |
> | Don't forget to contribute to Matt for the upkeep of the Lists! http://www.matronics.com
> |
> | And Bob, thank you for the time and effort you put into this List. Very much
> appreciated!!!!!!!!!
> |
> |
> |
> |
> |
> |
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Permanent magnet filter cap voltage requirement? |
As long as you are using the same MFD rating, you should use a higher
voltage rating to keep voltage spikes from destroying the capacitor. The
physical size may be the deciding factor as you might have a limited space.
I would use the best cap with the right MFD but as at least 3 to 10 times
the voltage rating for longevity as the nominal rating of the device, (12
volts?)
----- Original Message -----
From: "royt.or" <royt.or(at)netzero.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Permanent magnet filter cap voltage requirement?
('Lectric)Bob,
I'm confused and wanted to check on the required voltage rating for the
electrolytic filter cap for the Rotax (and other permanent magnet
alternators). Rotax call for a 25V cap. Most of the schematics in
appendix Z also call for a 25V cap. Note 20 say's the voltage
requirement ranges from 15V to 50V. The 47,000uFd cap B&C sells (PN
S251D479) and recommends for Rotax is rated at 16V.
Is a 16V capacitor acceptable in this application?
>From a long time "lurker", THANKS for all your contributions.
(Building Zenair CH601HDS, Rotax 912S w/optional alternator, all
electric IFR panel).
Regards,
Roy
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Fuse Panel Location |
Hi,
Earlier this week some folks were discussing the idea of mounting the fuse
panel underneath the instrument panel where it is out of the way, but
accessible without climbing under the panel. This is how I did it and I have
posted some pics at: http://www3.mb.sympatico.ca/~creimer/photo.htm
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust indicator
display?
I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
er.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Permanent magnet filter cap voltage requirement? |
>
>As long as you are using the same MFD rating, you should use a higher
>voltage rating to keep voltage spikes from destroying the capacitor.
"spikes" of the capacitor destroying variety don't exist
in our systems. All capacitors have a short duration "surge"
rating that exceeds their rated operating voltage by about
25% but even this capability is seldom tested in our
systems. In fact, it is the capacitor's duty to FILTER off
what some folks refer to as "spikes" and other sources of
noise.
> The
>physical size may be the deciding factor as you might have a limited space.
>I would use the best cap with the right MFD but as at least 3 to 10 times
>the voltage rating for longevity as the nominal rating of the device, (12
>volts?)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "royt.or" <royt.or(at)netzero.net>
>To:
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Permanent magnet filter cap voltage requirement?
>
>
>('Lectric)Bob,
>
>I'm confused and wanted to check on the required voltage rating for the
>electrolytic filter cap for the Rotax (and other permanent magnet
>alternators). Rotax call for a 25V cap. Most of the schematics in
>appendix Z also call for a 25V cap. Note 20 say's the voltage
>requirement ranges from 15V to 50V. The 47,000uFd cap B&C sells (PN
>S251D479) and recommends for Rotax is rated at 16V.
>
>Is a 16V capacitor acceptable in this application?
You betcha! The general rule of thumb for selecting
the capacitor size for a pm alternator is 1,000 uF per
amp of output . . . but having one larger than this
can't do anything but make the output smoother and quieter.
Soooo . . . 10,000 uF or larger is okay for an SD-8,
18,000 or larger is appropriate to the 912/914 Rotax.
47,000 will work for any of them and is a practical
upper limit for physical size . . . bigger capacitors
are harder to mount, more expensive and will add only
marginally to performance.
The biggest stress on capacitors of this type is RIPPLE
CURRENT (the noise that is inherent in the output of
PM alternator) . . . increasing the voltage rating is
of no assistance in making the capacitor last longer . . .
in fact, for the same size capacitor in uFD, the device's
internal impedance will go UP with voltage rating which
in turn adds to internal heating.
All other things being equal, buy capacitors with smaller
diameter and longer cases . . . small diameters are easier
to find clamps for and easier to mount. Smaller diameters
also dump out internal heat better.
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors are life limited critters.
I'd replace them about every 200 hours of operation for
best performance.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>
> Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust in>dicator
display?
>I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
>er.msn.com
I've considered looking into practical uses for automotive
oxygen sensors . . . just not enough hours in the day.
Common wisdom says automotive oxygen sensors won't survive
the lead in a 100LL engine's exhaust. A couple of years ago,
at an RV fly-in in Burlington CO, a pilot brought in a really
nice Falco. I was looking over his craftsmanship under the
cowl and noticed what looked like an oxygen sensor screwed into
a boss on his exhaust stack on one side.
When asked about it, he told me it was indeed a plain vanilla
oxygen sensor that he'd been using for at least 200+ hours to
give him a more accurate leaning tool.
There's a whole raft of information and products out there
for the automotive markets . . . some of these speak to the
evils of "leaded fuel" . . . but it might not cost you much
to find out for yourself. Of course if your project flys with
mogas, you're home free.
Here's just a few interesting hits I got on a web search:
http://crash.ihug.co.nz/~nickf/o2.html
http://www.partrackers.com/library/1/24/28/
http://gong.snu.ac.kr/~ceragas/potentio.htm
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/accel/page1-4.html
http://www.dalhems.com/electronics/halmeter.html
http://www.dnd-automotive.com/tuneup/02-sensor.htm
http://gadgetseller.com/gauges/techinfo.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
> >
> > Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust
in> >dicator display?
> >I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
> >er.msn.com
>
> I've considered looking into practical uses for automotive
> oxygen sensors . . . just not enough hours in the day.
>
> Common wisdom says automotive oxygen sensors won't survive
> the lead in a 100LL engine's exhaust. A couple of years ago,
> at an RV fly-in in Burlington CO, a pilot brought in a really
> nice Falco. I was looking over his craftsmanship under the
> cowl and noticed what looked like an oxygen sensor screwed into
> a boss on his exhaust stack on one side.
>
> When asked about it, he told me it was indeed a plain vanilla
> oxygen sensor that he'd been using for at least 200+ hours to
> give him a more accurate leaning tool.
>
> There's a whole raft of information and products out there
> for the automotive markets . . . some of these speak to the
> evils of "leaded fuel" . . . but it might not cost you much
> to find out for yourself. Of course if your project flys with
> mogas, you're home free.
>
> Bob
Hi Bob,
I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
100LL on it and it still works just fine. I too had heard that an O2 sensor
exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
true. HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline does contaminate the sensor to
the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to change
(milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system and prevent
those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile,
its essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. But, if you
simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
I sent John a schematic of this simple LED Air Fuel Indictor.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>
>>
>> Bob
>
>Hi Bob,
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
>to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
>100LL on it and it still works just fine. I too had heard that an O2 sensor
>exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
>true. HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline does contaminate the sensor to
>the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to change
>(milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system and prevent
>those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile,
>its essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. But, if you
>simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
>relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
>I sent John a schematic of this simple LED Air Fuel Indictor.
>
>Best Regards
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
Ed, if you'd like to have your work posted in the technical
articles archives on aeroelectric.com, you would be welcome
to send me a copy too . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: connection to heated pitot tube |
>
>Bear with me, cuz I'm a novice when it comes to things electrical. :-)
>
>I'm installing a heated pitot tube I bought from Gretz Aero...the instructions
state that the wires
>to the receptacle assembly should be joined to a connector. But they don't say
what kind of
>connector. Can anyone help me out?
didn't he send a connector with it? There should be a
plastic or ceramic device adjacent to the tube fitting
that you can pull on and it will come off in your hand.
The connector disassembles with one or two screws through
it. It will separate into two halves with two female
pins to which you can solder your wires.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Thank you kindly Bob, that'll keep me quiet for a while.
Where would we be with out you.
John A.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Exhaust Gas Indicator
lls(at)aeroelectric.com>
otmail.com>
>
> Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust in
>dicator display?
>I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
>er.msn.com
I've considered looking into practical uses for automotive
oxygen sensors . . . just not enough hours in the day.
Common wisdom says automotive oxygen sensors won't survive
the lead in a 100LL engine's exhaust. A couple of years ago,
at an RV fly-in in Burlington CO, a pilot brought in a really
nice Falco. I was looking over his craftsmanship under the
cowl and noticed what looked like an oxygen sensor screwed into
a boss on his exhaust stack on one side.
When asked about it, he told me it was indeed a plain vanilla
oxygen sensor that he'd been using for at least 200+ hours to
give him a more accurate leaning tool.
There's a whole raft of information and products out there
for the automotive markets . . . some of these speak to the
evils of "leaded fuel" . . . but it might not cost you much
to find out for yourself. Of course if your project flys with
mogas, you're home free.
Here's just a few interesting hits I got on a web search:
http://crash.ihug.co.nz/~nickf/o2.html
http://www.partrackers.com/library/1/24/28/
http://gong.snu.ac.kr/~ceragas/potentio.htm
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/accel/page1-4.html
http://www.dalhems.com/electronics/halmeter.html
http://www.dnd-automotive.com/tuneup/02-sensor.htm
http://gadgetseller.com/gauges/techinfo.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
o00o(_)o00o
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=
=
=
=
c-list
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>
>
> Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust in>dicator
display?
>I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
>er.msn.com
>
Sounds like John wants to roll his own, but for those that are
interested Iceman sells a system using an automotive O2 sensor. See:
http://www.dica.ca/iceindex.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ED KOWALSKI" <salned(at)msn.com> |
"RV-8List" , "Rv-8 Egroups"
| Subject: | Lasar Ignition and NO spark |
We tried to start our engine and have no spark. The engine is a new O360-A1A with
Lasar Electronic Ignition from Lycoming. The keyed ignition switch is ACS.
There's no trouble shooting in the Lasar manual and Unison is closed until Monday.
Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!..........Ed
Ed Kowalski
RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
#80127
Getting ready to Fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar Ignition and NO spark |
Ed,
I have the Jeff Rose system so can't speak from experience about Laser, but
do remember from past threads that the laser system will shut down if it
detects too low of voltage. The starter may be pulling the voltage down and
the laser system shuts down. You may want to charge your battery or try
another one.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: ED KOWALSKI <salned(at)msn.com>
; Rv-8 Egroups
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lasar Ignition and NO spark
>
> We tried to start our engine and have no spark. The engine is a new O360> -A1A
with Lasar Electronic Ignition from Lycoming. The keyed ignition sw> itch
is ACS. There's no trouble shooting in the Lasar manual and Unison i> s closed
until Monday. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!> !!!!!!!!!..........Ed
>
> Ed Kowalski
> RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
> #80127
> Getting ready to Fly
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >
> >>
> >> Bob
>
> Ed, if you'd like to have your work posted in the technical
> articles archives on aeroelectric.com, you would be welcome
> to send me a copy too . . .
>
> Bob . . .
Hi Bob,
I have attached a quick and dirty schematic of the circuit. The only
note I forgot to place in the diagram was depending on what type LEDs you
use the 500 Ohm voltage dropping resistor may not be needed. I use the
minature T-1 (3mm) diffused LEDs. Also, if you use the Bar mode of the
chip the dropping resistor may not be needed. If the LED's look dim remove
the resistor or short around it.
I don't have a good schematic drawing program to make it look nice. If
you know of a free one, I 'll redo it so it will look more "presentable" on
you site. Its precision is as good as the care in calibration. It is of
course a relative Air/Fuel mixture indicator (indicator - because of course,
it does not measure air/fuel ratio but infers it from the oxygen content of
the exhaust gas and has a very non linear curve) rather than an absolute.
Generally the outer limits of the curve lean and rich are what most are
interested in. However, once calibrated and you get use to using it, it is
quite a useful low cost, little circuit. Parts cost approx $10-15 depending
on what and where you get it. I use a couple of 1 1/2 volt dry cells with a
potentiometer to vary the voltage between 100mv and 1000mv to fine tune and
check it out.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered 115 hours
Matthews, NC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers,
Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
Ferg
Europa A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/23/01 |
Good question. No, there wasn't a connector in the package. And I know what you're
thinking, if there
wasn't one, there should have been. I've emailed Warren to ask about it. Thanks!
John
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: re: connection to heated pitot tube
>
>
> >
> >Bear with me, cuz I'm a novice when it comes to things electrical. :-)
> >
> >I'm installing a heated pitot tube I bought from Gretz Aero...the instructions
state that the wires
> >to the receptacle assembly should be joined to a connector. But they don't
say what kind of
> >connector. Can anyone help me out?
>
> didn't he send a connector with it? There should be a
> plastic or ceramic device adjacent to the tube fitting
> that you can pull on and it will come off in your hand.
> The connector disassembles with one or two screws through
> it. It will separate into two halves with two female
> pins to which you can solder your wires.
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Messinger" <paulm(at)tenforward.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Gas Indicator |
In the land down under there is a very nice display kit available. here are
a couple of links. They all ship world wide. Remember the cost is in aussy
$$ not US$$
Paul
"""
3 Digit LED readout plus bargraph.
Display auto-dims at night.
The Silicon Chip September and October 2000 issue features the original
article about the FMD unit that is available as a complete kit (with case),
or a set of two PCBs (prices correct @ 31 Oct 01) from:
Altronics K4347 (AU$64.95)http:
//www.altronics.com.au/cat.asp?cat=11&grp=430&id=K+4347
Jaycar KC5300 (AU$62.95)http: //www.jaycar.com.au/
Dick Smith K4213 (AU$63.95)http: //www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront
""""
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
> Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust in>dicator
display?
>I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
>er.msn.com
I've considered looking into practical uses for automotive
oxygen sensors . . . just not enough hours in the day.
Common wisdom says automotive oxygen sensors won't survive
the lead in a 100LL engine's exhaust. A couple of years ago,
at an RV fly-in in Burlington CO, a pilot brought in a really
nice Falco. I was looking over his craftsmanship under the
cowl and noticed what looked like an oxygen sensor screwed into
a boss on his exhaust stack on one side.
When asked about it, he told me it was indeed a plain vanilla
oxygen sensor that he'd been using for at least 200+ hours to
give him a more accurate leaning tool.
There's a whole raft of information and products out there
for the automotive markets . . . some of these speak to the
evils of "leaded fuel" . . . but it might not cost you much
to find out for yourself. Of course if your project flys with
mogas, you're home free.
Here's just a few interesting hits I got on a web search:
http://crash.ihug.co.nz/~nickf/o2.html
http://www.partrackers.com/library/1/24/28/
http://gong.snu.ac.kr/~ceragas/potentio.htm
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/accel/page1-4.html
http://www.dalhems.com/electronics/halmeter.html
http://www.dnd-automotive.com/tuneup/02-sensor.htm
http://gadgetseller.com/gauges/techinfo.htm
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Warren D. Shoun" <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Take a look at
http://www.dakotadigital.com/Detail.cfm?Category=140&PartNumber=ODY-13-2
for another option in the States.
Cheers,
~Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLL <glikar(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing 'Radar' |
Hello Ferg, yes I am interested. I adapted an ultrasonic detector and feed
into my head set, it produced a higher frequency as you moved closer to the
water. What I wanted was help detecting height over glassy water. It
worked fine at a few feet, but i wanted an indicator that could work at 20
to 30 feet. Like to hear more about yours, and will it work at greater
distances.
Cheers
GLL
Cheers,
Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
Ferg
Europa A064
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | klehman <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Gas Indicator |
FWIW I have heard several reports of oxygen sensors surviving lead
exposure much longer if shielded from direct exhaust such as in a
balance tube or even with a little sheild. I think their response does
slow down as they become contaminated.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vern Smith <vismith(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing 'Radar' |
Hi Fergy..would be interested in seeing your gizmo first hand...now living in
Woodstock so will be able to get away from the basement construction soon! Your
project sounds interesting...hope to get down to Mount Hope soon..regards, Vern
Smith
Fergus Kyle wrote:
>
> Cheers,
> Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
> a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
> A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
> and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
> I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
> taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
> Ferg
> Europa A064
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>> Ed, if you'd like to have your work posted in the technical
>> articles archives on aeroelectric.com, you would be welcome
>> to send me a copy too . . .
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>Hi Bob,
>
> I have attached a quick and dirty schematic of the circuit. The only
>note I forgot to place in the diagram was depending on what type LEDs you
>use the 500 Ohm voltage dropping resistor may not be needed. I use the
>minature T-1 (3mm) diffused LEDs. Also, if you use the Bar mode of the
>chip the dropping resistor may not be needed. If the LED's look dim remove
>the resistor or short around it.
>
> I don't have a good schematic drawing program to make it look nice. If
>you know of a free one, I 'll redo it so it will look more "presentable" on
>you site. Its precision is as good as the care in calibration. It is of
>course a relative Air/Fuel mixture indicator (indicator - because of course,
>it does not measure air/fuel ratio but infers it from the oxygen content of
>the exhaust gas and has a very non linear curve) rather than an absolute.
>Generally the outer limits of the curve lean and rich are what most are
>interested in. However, once calibrated and you get use to using it, it is
>quite a useful low cost, little circuit. Parts cost approx $10-15 depending
>on what and where you get it. I use a couple of 1 1/2 volt dry cells with a
>potentiometer to vary the voltage between 100mv and 1000mv to fine tune and
>check it out.
Ed, you can't send attachments through the list . . . you
can send it to me directly at nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing 'Radar' |
>
>Cheers,
> Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
>a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
> A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
>and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
>I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
>taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
>Ferg
>Europa A064
Had a chance to play with some Polaroid acoustic
ranging products about 10 years ago. These had a still
air range of over 30 feet. Problem at that time was
to filter out slipstream noise . . . only played with it
for a few hours and moved on to other things. Haven't
looked at state of the art products. I'd be interested
in hearing about recent experiences anyone can offer.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing 'Radar' |
I made one based on Ferg's suggestion and did some moving air
experimentation. Also, the ultrasonic transducer that is used on this
model has the limited range but there are others available, as well as more
resistant to weather - it was developed for backup warning systems for
trucks, etc. However, the one Ferg is talking about does work as described
on the avionics page of www.liming.org/ch801
Gary Liming
>
>
> >
> >Cheers,
> > Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
> >a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
> > A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
> >and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
> >I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
> >taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
> >Ferg
> >Europa A064
>
> Had a chance to play with some Polaroid acoustic
> ranging products about 10 years ago. These had a still
> air range of over 30 feet. Problem at that time was
> to filter out slipstream noise . . . only played with it
> for a few hours and moved on to other things. Haven't
> looked at state of the art products. I'd be interested
> in hearing about recent experiences anyone can offer.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing 'Radar' |
Are schematics/drawings/photos available?
Thanks.
Robert
Vern Smith wrote:
>
> Hi Fergy..would be interested in seeing your gizmo first hand...now living in
> Woodstock so will be able to get away from the basement construction soon! Your
> project sounds interesting...hope to get down to Mount Hope soon..regards, Vern
> Smith
>
> Fergus Kyle wrote:
>
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
> > a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
> > A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
> > and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
> > I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
> > taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
> > Ferg
> > Europa A064
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Bob,
I tried e mailing the schematic to you at nuckolls(at)aeroelectic.com and
the mail bounced with the following response:
------Transcript of session follows -------
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
550 ORBZ Open Relay see <http://www.orbz.org/b.php?24.93.67.52>
So, I presume you still did not receive my message with the schematic
attached.
Ed Anderson
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >> Ed, if you'd like to have your work posted in the technical
> >> articles archives on aeroelectric.com, you would be welcome
> >> to send me a copy too . . .
> >>
> >> Bob . . .
> >
> >Hi Bob,
> >
> > I have attached a quick and dirty schematic of the circuit. The only
> >note I forgot to place in the diagram was depending on what type LEDs you
> >use the 500 Ohm voltage dropping resistor may not be needed. I use the
> >minature T-1 (3mm) diffused LEDs. Also, if you use the Bar mode of the
> >chip the dropping resistor may not be needed. If the LED's look dim
remove
> >the resistor or short around it.
> >
> > I don't have a good schematic drawing program to make it look nice. If
> >you know of a free one, I 'll redo it so it will look more "presentable"
on
> >you site. Its precision is as good as the care in calibration. It is of
> >course a relative Air/Fuel mixture indicator (indicator - because of
course,
> >it does not measure air/fuel ratio but infers it from the oxygen content
of
> >the exhaust gas and has a very non linear curve) rather than an
absolute.
> >Generally the outer limits of the curve lean and rich are what most are
> >interested in. However, once calibrated and you get use to using it, it
is
> >quite a useful low cost, little circuit. Parts cost approx $10-15
depending
> >on what and where you get it. I use a couple of 1 1/2 volt dry cells
with a
> >potentiometer to vary the voltage between 100mv and 1000mv to fine tune
and
> >check it out.
>
> Ed, you can't send attachments through the list . . . you
> can send it to me directly at nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Can You Say...? |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting a ton great comments on what the Lists mean to its
members and I've included a few of them below. I'm sure _most_ of you can
echo one or more of these sentiments to the tune of a nice List
Contribution... :-)
Just one more week until I post the 2001 List of Contributors! Won't you
support the continued operation of these Lists by making a Contribution
today and assure your place on the upcoming Contributor List? I'm sure
your friends will be checking for your name on the LOC... ;-)
SSL Secure Web Visa and MasterCard Contributions:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Personal Check via the US Mail:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
I want to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution this
year! YOU make these Lists possible!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
===========================================================================
Can't live without my List everyday!
- John B.
Information you can't get anywhere else.
- George D.
...one of the finest List sites on the Internet.
- Dennis S.
This List has saved my bacon more than once!
- Larry H.
Really invaluable service for a novice builder.
- John B.
...got some useful help from the List.
- Rocky S.
A valuable resource.
- Dennis N.
This List is a Super resource...
- Dwight F.
...couldn't have gotten this far without the
resources on the List.
- Jerry C.
Great service to us builders...
- Ronald M.
...someday we'll all meet in RV Heaven. Hey,
how come there isn't an "RV-Heaven" List?
- Louis W.
The info I've gleaned from the List has saved
me several thousand dollars...
- Kevin H.
...the only International, Interesting, Up-to-date,
List with the best search engine ever!
- Hans L.
...check it ever day so I don't miss anything.
- Jim B.
Great List!
- Douglas G.
This List has saved me a few times already...
- Thomas R.
...part of my morning wake up reading.
- Dwight F.
...helped my make my plane better, safer, better
looking, and built it quicker.
- Kevin H.
Have bought many items from the info the List gives.
- Jim B.
You meet the nicest people here.
- George D.
Informative, Amusing, Entertaining...
- John B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ED KOWALSKI" <salned(at)msn.com> |
I'm Just starting the engine for the first time and when the key is moved to the
start position the VM1000 monitor screen shuts off and then comes back on immediately.
Is this a problem or normal? Thanks...Ed
Ed Kowalski
RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
#80127
Getting ready to Fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Automotive O2 sensors |
>>Common wisdom says automotive oxygen sensors won't survive
the lead in a 100LL engine's exhaust. A couple of years ago,
at an RV fly-in in Burlington CO, a pilot brought in a really
nice Falco. I was looking over his craftsmanship under the
cowl and noticed what looked like an oxygen sensor screwed into
a boss on his exhaust stack on one side.
When asked about it, he told me it was indeed a plain vanilla
oxygen sensor that he'd been using for at least 200+ hours to
give him a more accurate leaning tool.<<
Interesting. I have an O2 meter from Autometer (available at most speed
shops) in my car. It works great, is very light and easy to use. I
wouldn't have guessed that the O2 sensor would last 200 hours on leaded
fuel, but if I were going to do it (sounds like kind of a good idea) I would
try NOT to allow the probe to protrude into the exhaust as it will last
longer if protected from the direct stream. The only reason to have it out
in the stream would be to improve the reaction time and make it warm up
faster, neither of which mean anything. Also, it should see the exhaust
from all cylinders.
Gary Casey
Lancair ES kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
>>Hi Listers, does anyone know of a schematic for building a CO exhaust indicator
display?
I wondered if a normal ox sensor could be used to drive an LED display?
er.msn.com<<
O2 sensors have a very high impedance voltage output that goes between 0 and
1 volt. If you used the voltage as the input of a comparator with at least
that impedance and set the reference at about 0.4 volts it would give a
binary output , high is rich or low for lean. That's about all you need as
the sensor itself is pretty much binary.
Gary Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.weed(at)acterna.com |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/25/01 |
>
>Cheers,
> Anyone 'out there' planning or using aa acoustic unit to provide
>a sliding audio signal which indicates height above landing surface?
> A buddy has devised a system which measures height above surface
>and provides sliding audio from 5" to 5ft (approx.)
>I've built it and it works. It will be useful (to me) to allow me to adjust
>taildown attitude necessary for my monowheel landing.
>Ferg
>Europa A064
>>Had a chance to play with some Polaroid acoustic
>>ranging products about 10 years ago. These had a still
>>air range of over 30 feet. Problem at that time was
>>to filter out slipstream noise . . . only played with it
>>for a few hours and moved on to other things. Haven't
>>looked at state of the art products. I'd be interested
>>in hearing about recent experiences anyone can offer.
>> Bob . . .
Bob,
I had a similar experience. My Poloroid based ground proximity / gear-up sensor
worked great on the bench but, surprise, there seems to be a lot of
ultrasonic noise around airplanes and cars.
I tested it on a car bumper, pointing up, and detected bridges as I drove under
them. Unfortunately, ultrasonics in the wind noise caused lots of false
alarms. My next choice of sensors was the short range radar units used
for opening doors at supermarkets, etc. They have units for alarm systems
that have ranges up to something like 100'. A nice side effect was that
you could set off all the radar detectors in the cars on the highway
beneath you. That alone would have made it fun, but a sample radar unit
was too expensive for my messing around budget and I abandoned that
project.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Question |
>
>I'm Just starting the engine for the first time and when the key is moved> to
the start position the VM1000 monitor screen shuts off and then comes> back on
immediately. Is this a problem or normal? Thanks...Ed
>
>Ed Kowalski
>RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
>#80127
>Getting ready to Fly
>
The very best place to get questions like this answered
with authority is to call the manufacturer . . . and then
post both the question and answer to benefit the rest of
us.
It's not a "bad" thing to inquire as to other people's
experiences with a product but when you're interested in
what's "normal" or "expected" . . . only the guy who
designed the thing can answer that.
I suspect the system does a brownout reset when the battery
voltage drops during cranking and is probably normal
but until you talk to The Man . . . we won't know
for sure.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attn: Bob Nuckolls/Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>
>Bob,
>
> I tried e mailing the schematic to you at nuckolls(at)aeroelectic.com and
>the mail bounced with the following response:
>
>------Transcript of session follows -------
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
>550 ORBZ Open Relay see <http://www.orbz.org/b.php?24.93.67.52>
>
> So, I presume you still did not receive my message with the schematic
>attached.
Yep. . . Paul has installed LOTS of filters on his system's
file handling utilities not the least of which is a subscription
to a sort of "blacklisting" service for ISPs that don't take
measures to prevent their mail forwarding servers from being
commandeered for mischievous activities. Your's has been
so-blessed.
You might drop a note to the tech support folks with your
ISP and ask them to take measures to remove themselves from
the open relay violation blacklist.
In the mean time, try mailing to nuckolls(at)kscable.com . . .
-OR- the very best way for ALL of us to transfer large files
to others is to get a File Transfer Protocol (FTP) program
and learn how to use it to post files to hard drive space
that is almost always provided free with every Internet
connectivity contract. I think my first ISP offered about 5
megabytes of hard drive space that I could post files or
a personal website.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Question |
Ed--
My VM-1000 has done this since day 1, every time the PM starter is
until voltage is back up. This is normal--the internal battery saves
your warning presets, clock time. etc.
ED KOWALSKI wrote:
>
>
> I'm Just starting the engine for the first time and when the key is moved> to
the start position the VM1000 monitor screen shuts off and then comes> back
on immediately. Is this a problem or normal? Thanks...Ed
>
> Ed Kowalski
> RV-8 - Wilmington Il.
> #80127
> Getting ready to Fly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Robinson" <jbr(at)hitechnetworks.net> |
Bob
I sent a power spread sheet for my Glasair and some questions.
Did you ever receive it?
Jim Robinson
Glasair 79R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Automotive O2 sensors |
> The only reason to have it out
> in the stream would be to improve the reaction time and make it warm up
> faster, neither of which mean anything. Also, it should see the exhaust
> from all cylinders.
I know nothing about oxygen sensors, but I'll guess that they output a
voltage proportional (probably non-linear) to the O2 present.
Most RV-6s, 8s & 9s have 4 into 2 exhaust systems. Would two sensors, one in
each pipe and wired in series give a usable indication for leaning the
engine?
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Automotive O2 sensors |
I spoke via 'phone with the designer of the AvMix system which uses an
automotive oxygen sensor. He told me which downpipe of the exhaust to mount
the sensor to(can't remember which one right now but I wrote it on the pipe)
as that was the cylinder that always leaned out first in an 0-320. He had
one sensor for each cylinder on his RV-4 when developing his system.
He also said that mounting the sensor downstream of any slipjoints or
swivels would cause false readings of the presence of oxygen in the exhaust
due to the suction of the exhaust stream when flowing past these joints. It
comes with two methods of mounting the sensor- a weld-on boss or a clamp.
The clamp apparently can also cause occasional false readings.
Also, the system actually triggers before reaching peak EGT, which surprized
me. Leaning using the AvMix's "too lean" light would leave a mixture
somewhere between max rpm and max economy. I still think it's a great idea
and it's on my Christmas Wish List.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive O2 sensors
>
>
> > The only reason to have it out
> > in the stream would be to improve the reaction time and make it warm up
> > faster, neither of which mean anything. Also, it should see the exhaust
> > from all cylinders.
>
> I know nothing about oxygen sensors, but I'll guess that they output a
> voltage proportional (probably non-linear) to the O2 present.
>
> Most RV-6s, 8s & 9s have 4 into 2 exhaust systems. Would two sensors, one
in
> each pipe and wired in series give a usable indication for leaning the
> engine?
>
> Curt
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Automotive O2 sensors |
You can buy a LambdaLink display meter from:
Link Electrosystems Ltd
243d Annex Road
Sockburn
Christchurch
New Zealand
Phone 64 3 348 8854 (64 is country code for NZ)
Fax 64 3 348 1595
E-mail philip.link-electro(at)clear.net.nz
$71 US plust freight. Beautifully finished unit and interfaces with Bosch probes
P/Ns 0258 003 050, (unleaded) 070. 070 (leaded) 0258 104 002 (leaded) Nissan A24
604 110 49262 (unleaded) Honda ND 065500 8210 (unleaded)
John A.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive O2 sensors
cott(at)shaw.ca>
I spoke via 'phone with the designer of the AvMix system which uses an
automotive oxygen sensor. He told me which downpipe of the exhaust to mount
the sensor to(can't remember which one right now but I wrote it on the pipe)
as that was the cylinder that always leaned out first in an 0-320. He had
one sensor for each cylinder on his RV-4 when developing his system.
He also said that mounting the sensor downstream of any slipjoints or
swivels would cause false readings of the presence of oxygen in the exhaust
due to the suction of the exhaust stream when flowing past these joints.
It
comes with two methods of mounting the sensor- a weld-on boss or a clamp.
The clamp apparently can also cause occasional false readings.
Also, the system actually triggers before reaching peak EGT, which surprized
me. Leaning using the AvMix's "too lean" light would leave a mixture
somewhere between max rpm and max economy. I still think it's a great idea
and it's on my Christmas Wish List.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Automotive O2 sensors
>
>
> > The only reason to have it out
> > in the stream would be to improve the reaction time and make it warm
up
> > faster, neither of which mean anything. Also, it should see the exhaust
> > from all cylinders.
>
> I know nothing about oxygen sensors, but I'll guess that they output a
> voltage proportional (probably non-linear) to the O2 present.
>
> Most RV-6s, 8s & 9s have 4 into 2 exhaust systems. Would two sensors, one
in
> each pipe and wired in series give a usable indication for leaning the
> engine?
>
> Curt
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
=
=
=
=
c-list
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Orton <vorton(at)pacstates.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Could somebody please explain impedance to me? |
>
>Could somebody please explain impedance to me.
>
>I understand resistance/ ohms, current, amperage,voltage, A/C, D/C, single
>phase, relays, capacitors,transformers, and seem to know enough to be
>dangerous to myself and others in many different types of electrical
>componentry. I have wired houses and troubleshoot machine tools and various
>charging systems with reasonable sucess. I own numerous multimeters, and
>understand wiring diagrams, but the impedance concept still eludes me. I
>can usually keep the smoke inside most of my electronics(on a good day..some
>smoke has escaped I admit).
>
>Thanks, Dave Leonard
>
*****
Dave -
Sure, I'll give it a try.
Others Listers have given good descriptions, but I think you may be unaware
of the dynamics of AC circuits, which include radio, TV, household current,
and any other non-DC electricity.
Impedance is AC resistance, or CHANGING resistance. Got it? No? Well,
let me try again, with "think about it" examples: one for a COIL, and one
for a CAPACITOR.
COIL:
Rule 1) A coil resists CHANGES in current (amps).
Rule 2) It does this by taking time to CHANGE its magnetic field.
Rule 3) Bigger coils, bigger resistance to current CHANGES.
A coil is a wire, and has (near) zero resistance ... eventually. A
disconnected coil has no magnetic field.
A) When suddenly connected to a 12V battery, the coil INITIALLY has a 12V
drop across it, with no current flowing - effectively a LOT of resistance
(12V/0A = infinite ohms). However, the coil begins to draw current,
building up its magnetic field as it does, storing its energy in the
magnetic field. Eventually the battery will be effectively shorted out
(0V) by the coil, and drawing all the current the battery can deliver -
effectively NO resistance (0V/100A = 0 ohms).
B) Now disconnect the coil, and the current is INITIALLY high (100A in the
above example), and the resistance is also VERY high (thin air). The coil
will resist any change in current - it still wants to pump 100A! You might
wonder where it gets the energy for this - why, from the coil's magnetic
field, of course! How can it get 100A across thin air? By increasing the
VOLTAGE to spark levels. IMPORTANT: While a coil does resist CURRENT
changes, the coil's voltage is free game - ANY voltage will do!
NOTE: Apply voltage to a coil and the current eventually changes from zero
to something. Voltage changes before the current does.
CAPACITOR:
Rule 1) A capacitor resists CHANGES in voltage.
Rule 2) It does this by taking time to CHANGE its electric field.
Rule 3) Bigger capacitors, bigger resistance to voltage CHANGES.
A capacitor is two metallic plates real close together, but not touching.
They're insulated from each other, and have (near) infinite resistance ...
eventually. A disconnected capacitor may or may not have electric field
between its plates.
A) When suddenly connected to a 12V battery, the discharged capacitor
INITIALLY has a 0V drop across it, which suddenly draws all available
current - effectively NO resistance (0V/100A = 0 ohms). IMPORTANT: While a
capacitor does resist VOLTAGE changes, the capacitor's current is free game
- ANY current will do! That battery REALLY wants 12V across that
capacitor! The capacitor begins to charge up, building up its electric
field as it does, storing its energy in the electric field. Eventually the
capacitor will be charged up to 12V, and drawing no more current from the
battery - effectively a LOT of resistance (12V/0A = infinite ohms).
B) Now disconnect the capacitor, and the voltage will remain at 12V,
because the resistance is still VERY high (thin air).
C) If you suddenly short the capacitor, it will resist any change in
voltage - it still wants to hold 12V! You might wonder where it gets the
energy for this - why, from the capacitor's electric field, of course! How
can it get 12V across a short? By increasing the CURRENT to very high
levels.
NOTE: Apply voltage to a capacitor and the current eventually changes from
something to zero. Current changes before the voltage does.
These are the two DC states - on, and off. It's what happens in between
that matters - and how fast. That's the AC part.
For a single change in voltage (or current), the "resistance" changes, then
settles into some new value. NOTE: If you are constantly CHANGING the
voltage (or current) input, then the "resistance" depends upon HOW FAST
you're changing. The RESISTANCE in Ohms depends upon exactly WHEN you
measure the circuit, and is rather irrelevant anyway, 'cause it's gonna
change! The IMPEDANCE will depend upon the frequency of the changes
(usually a smooth sine wave).
For a coil, you can change the voltage (up & down) as fast as you want, it
will gradually increase or decrease the current depending upon the average
voltage over time. This is why coils are good for noise elimination -
spikey alternator juice in one side, smoother current changes coming out
the other.
For a capacitor, any change in voltage is "resisted" - the capacitor tries
to draw or inject current into the circuit to steady the voltage. This is
also used in noise reduction - put one between a bus feed and ground, and
it will really, really try to keep the bus at a steady voltage, absorbing
and returning current as necessary to prevent voltage changes.
Speaking of capacitors - a coax cable is kinda like a capacitor: that long
wire just a fraction of an inch from its shielding - not quite two parallel
plates, but still close enough, especially at RF frequencies. If you know
the FREQUENCY of the AC that you're sending down the wire, then you can
figure out how much "resistance" you will have. UHF and VHF are at certain
frequencies, and the coax is setup to have approximate "resistances" at
those frequencies - this is so radio and antenna manufacturers know what to
design their equipment for. (Higher frequencies = higher resistance, etc.)
That's why it's called impedance, so you don't confuse it with simple DC
resistance. They both resist (or impede) electrical flow. Impedance is
also measured in Ohms, but only for a given frequency (rate of
voltage/current changes - i.e. 100Mhz = 100,000,000 changes per second.)
I am not familiar specifically with aero electrical systems - so feel free
to correct me as necessary, especially if I recommended any no-no's (like
the noise reduction stuff.)
I hope I haven't overdone it on my first post. Great list guys - keep up
the work. I'll be joining you soon ...
Vince Orton
Southern Calif.
(Lurking - don't know what plane to build yet ...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Don't Miss The Video... |
Hey Listers!
Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy
Gold of The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is
donating a FREE COPY of the new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS)
to any List Member making a Contribution of $50 or more!
To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following
information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you
Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check
via the USMail:
Van's RV Story Video Offer
$50 or Greater Contributor
[your name]
[your shipping address]
[your City, State and Zip Code]
If you've already made a Contribution of $50 or more during the 2001 Fund
Raiser and would still like to receive the video, please drop me an email (
dralle(at)matronics.com ) and include the information shown above with the
following Subject Line:
Subject: Video Offer
Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available
in about 8 weeks.
I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very
generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The
Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look (
http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of
interesting, informative, and exceptionally useful books and videos on his
site. Please have a look!
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution
so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Just a few more days until I send
out the List of Contributors for 2001. Make your Contribution today to
make sure your name is on the LOC!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul(at)eucleides.com> |
Indicator
If you click the link, you will see your mail server is listed in ORBZ
because it relays spam. We don't accept mail from any open spam relays.
You need to complain to rr.com. Likely one of their customers is actually
operating the open relay and they in turn relay through the rr.com server
at 24.93.67.52.
Unfortunately when aggressively blocking spam, legitimate mail gets
blocked. In the case of rr.com, they have been a problem for a long time
and most of their mail servers are blocked.
At 07:36 PM 11/25/2001, Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
>Bob,
>
> I tried e mailing the schematic to you at nuckolls(at)aeroelectic.com and
>the mail bounced with the following response:
>
>------Transcript of session follows -------
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
>550 ORBZ Open Relay see <http://www.orbz.org/b.php?24.93.67.52>
>
> So, I presume you still did not receive my message with the schematic
>attached.
>
>Ed Anderson
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > >> Ed, if you'd like to have your work posted in the technical
> > >> articles archives on aeroelectric.com, you would be welcome
> > >> to send me a copy too . . .
> > >>
> > >> Bob . . .
> > >
> > >Hi Bob,
> > >
> > > I have attached a quick and dirty schematic of the circuit. The only
> > >note I forgot to place in the diagram was depending on what type LEDs you
> > >use the 500 Ohm voltage dropping resistor may not be needed. I use the
> > >minature T-1 (3mm) diffused LEDs. Also, if you use the Bar mode of the
> > >chip the dropping resistor may not be needed. If the LED's look dim
>remove
> > >the resistor or short around it.
> > >
> > > I don't have a good schematic drawing program to make it look nice. If
> > >you know of a free one, I 'll redo it so it will look more "presentable"
>on
> > >you site. Its precision is as good as the care in calibration. It is of
> > >course a relative Air/Fuel mixture indicator (indicator - because of
>course,
> > >it does not measure air/fuel ratio but infers it from the oxygen content
>of
> > >the exhaust gas and has a very non linear curve) rather than an
>absolute.
> > >Generally the outer limits of the curve lean and rich are what most are
> > >interested in. However, once calibrated and you get use to using it, it
>is
> > >quite a useful low cost, little circuit. Parts cost approx $10-15
>depending
> > >on what and where you get it. I use a couple of 1 1/2 volt dry cells
>with a
> > >potentiometer to vary the voltage between 100mv and 1000mv to fine tune
>and
> > >check it out.
> >
> > Ed, you can't send attachments through the list . . . you
> > can send it to me directly at nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
>http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
> >
> >
>
>
** L I N U X ** .~. Paul A. Franz, P.E. Engineering Software
The Choice /V\ Blackdog Software Network Consulting and Sales
of the GNU /( )\ <http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/> Custom Web Services
Generation
-
(425) 641-8202, (425) 641-1773 FAX Internet FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul(at)eucleides.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPAM RBL, FTP instructions. |
At 08:07 AM 11/26/2001Robert L. Nuckolls, III sez:
> Yep. . . Paul has installed LOTS of filters on his system's
> file handling utilities not the least of which is a subscription
> to a sort of "blacklisting" service for ISPs that don't take
> measures to prevent their mail forwarding servers from being
> commandeered for mischievous activities. Your's has been
> so-blessed.
This is very true. We subscribe to ORBZ, ORDB, Spamcop, Spamhaus,
Osirusoft, MAPS DUL, and a couple other real time blackhole lists. This
does two things, It prevents our customers from getting spam and it
encourages legitimate users like yourself to complain to their ISPs about
operating open spam relays. Likely in the case of rr.com, their own mail
servers are not misconfigured but they have commercial clients operating
open relays that in turn relay through rr.com. They (road runner) need to
block all mail from these abusing clients. If you complain to them, this
will be a help.
We also filter out all executable files attached to e-mails. We scan all MS
style attachments for macros and they are stripped. (defanged, actually).
We strip all self executing scripts from html e-mails too. We do this
because high volume mail recipients such as Bob get sent as many as 50
viruses a day. Mostly from subscribers on this list. One slip and his
computer is out of commission for the time it takes to clean it. So I do
everything possible to prevent my users from receiving viral attachments.
to date. If you send attachments they will be stripped if they are
executable. So no .VB, .scr, .pif, .exe, .com files will be accepted. You
may send .tar.gz or .zip files or better (and much faster) would be to send
the files via ftp to the anonymous ftp site or post them on your own http site.
> You might drop a note to the tech support folks with your
> ISP and ask them to take measures to remove themselves from
> the open relay violation blacklist.
They can remove themselves from the website noted in the bounce message. A
retest will be scheduled. If they don't pass, they'll go right back on the
list. Some ISP's choose to block the test rather than repair the problem.
In that case they remain on the rbl.
> In the mean time, try mailing to nuckolls(at)kscable.com . . .
> -OR- the very best way for ALL of us to transfer large files
> to others is to get a File Transfer Protocol (FTP) program
> and learn how to use it to post files to hard drive space
> that is almost always provided free with every Internet
> connectivity contract. I think my first ISP offered about 5
> megabytes of hard drive space that I could post files or
> a personal website.
I also operate a free anonymous ftp site. This service is very much the
target of abuse so I have had to really restrict it's use. You may upload
files to the /incoming directory but you cannot see them there or access
them. You can create a directory in /incoming and place files there but you
cannot place directories within the created directory.
If you post a file, you then send me an e-mail (or one to Bob) and I will
then move your uploaded file to the /pub directory.
You can upload and download using any ftp client including the one
furnished with Windows. You can also use your browser for this with some
limitations. You cannot upload with Internet Explorer but you can download.
Using Netscape you can both upload and download.
FTP server address: ftp.eucleides.com
If you use an ordinary FTP client your user name is "anonymous" and your
password is your e-mail address.
For Netscape:
<ftp://anonymous(at)ftp.eucleides.com/>
Upon connection you will be asked for your password. Enter your e-mail
address. You can download from the /pub directory and any of its
subdirectories. You can upload to the /incoming directory only.
For Internet Explorer:
<ftp://ftp.eucleides.com/> You can download only. IE provides no
authentication.
Remember to let me know that you have posted a file to the /incoming
directory so that I can post it to the /pub directory.
** L I N U X ** .~. Paul A. Franz, P.E. Engineering Software
The Choice /V\ Blackdog Software Network Consulting and Sales
of the GNU /( )\ <http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/> Custom Web Services
Generation
-
(425) 641-8202, (425) 641-1773 FAX Internet FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
>>Most RV-6s, 8s & 9s have 4 into 2 exhaust systems. Would two sensors, one
in
each pipe and wired in series give a usable indication for leaning the
engine?<<
Unfortunately, O2 sensors (zirconia-based sensors at least, which are the
easy-to-get cheap ones) are inherently grounded so there is only one
terminal and no way to wire them in series. For all practical purposes
their output is digital with about 1 volt output rich and 0.15 volts lean.
One could hook them in parallel through maybe 10 meg resistors and then the
outputs could be read as an average, but that doesn't tell you much. Best
would be two indicators. What would be kind of cool for the gadget freaks
in the house would be to put one on each exhaust and the have 4 indicator
lights that would turn on when the mixture was rich. At full power you
would want "all green." The transition of the sensor is at stoichiometric
air/fuel ratio, which is about 14.7:1 for car gas. This is leaner than best
power and richer than best economy and maybe a touch richer than peak EGT.
So it gives a very accurate reference signal, but not a "target" for leaning
the engine. The advantage compared to looking for peak EGT is that the
signal is essentially instantaneous - I have looked at the signal with a
scope and been able to read individual cylinders.
Gary Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
Hi Bob,
I am using your 2 relay set up for the flaps. It works very well. I
planned on using an indicator light to show when the flap motor is
running. My original plan was to run a wire from the motor + wire to the
indicator light, but this will only work in one direction, I believe. If
I run a wire from each the + & - wire I think that would create a short.
So where can I hook into the circuit to get my positive input to the
light and show when the flap motor is running?
Thanks Again,
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPAM RBL, FTP instructions. |
Hi Paul,
I received your message to me off the Aeroelectric list explaining
about the SPAM relay problem. I understand completely. Sort of amusing in
that when I tried to respond to your message, my message back to you got
bounced also. Makes sense, since I did not switch providers in the
interval. I doubt seriously that my blacklisted provider which is Time
Warner/AOL would give up the revenue they get from SPAM mail because of my
complaint.
Again thanks for the education about the problem.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul(at)eucleides.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: SPAM RBL, FTP instructions.
>
> At 08:07 AM 11/26/2001Robert L. Nuckolls, III sez:
> > Yep. . . Paul has installed LOTS of filters on his system's
> > file handling utilities not the least of which is a subscription
> > to a sort of "blacklisting" service for ISPs that don't take
> > measures to prevent their mail forwarding servers from being
> > commandeered for mischievous activities. Your's has been
> > so-blessed.
>
> This is very true. We subscribe to ORBZ, ORDB, Spamcop, Spamhaus,
> Osirusoft, MAPS DUL, and a couple other real time blackhole lists. This
> does two things, It prevents our customers from getting spam and it
> encourages legitimate users like yourself to complain to their ISPs about
> operating open spam relays. Likely in the case of rr.com, their own mail
> servers are not misconfigured but they have commercial clients operating
> open relays that in turn relay through rr.com. They (road runner) need to
> block all mail from these abusing clients. If you complain to them, this
> will be a help.
>
> We also filter out all executable files attached to e-mails. We scan all
MS
> style attachments for macros and they are stripped. (defanged, actually).
> We strip all self executing scripts from html e-mails too. We do this
> because high volume mail recipients such as Bob get sent as many as 50
> computer is out of commission for the time it takes to clean it. So I do
> everything possible to prevent my users from receiving viral attachments.
>
> to date. If you send attachments they will be stripped if they are
> executable. So no .VB, .scr, .pif, .exe, .com files will be accepted. You
> may send .tar.gz or .zip files or better (and much faster) would be to
send
> the files via ftp to the anonymous ftp site or post them on your own http
site.
>
> > You might drop a note to the tech support folks with your
> > ISP and ask them to take measures to remove themselves from
> > the open relay violation blacklist.
>
> They can remove themselves from the website noted in the bounce message. A
> retest will be scheduled. If they don't pass, they'll go right back on the
> list. Some ISP's choose to block the test rather than repair the problem.
> In that case they remain on the rbl.
>
> > In the mean time, try mailing to nuckolls(at)kscable.com . . .
> > -OR- the very best way for ALL of us to transfer large files
> > to others is to get a File Transfer Protocol (FTP) program
> > and learn how to use it to post files to hard drive space
> > that is almost always provided free with every Internet
> > connectivity contract. I think my first ISP offered about 5
> > megabytes of hard drive space that I could post files or
> > a personal website.
>
> I also operate a free anonymous ftp site. This service is very much the
> target of abuse so I have had to really restrict it's use. You may upload
> files to the /incoming directory but you cannot see them there or access
> them. You can create a directory in /incoming and place files there but
you
> cannot place directories within the created directory.
>
> If you post a file, you then send me an e-mail (or one to Bob) and I will
> then move your uploaded file to the /pub directory.
>
> You can upload and download using any ftp client including the one
> furnished with Windows. You can also use your browser for this with some
> limitations. You cannot upload with Internet Explorer but you can
download.
> Using Netscape you can both upload and download.
>
> FTP server address: ftp.eucleides.com
>
> If you use an ordinary FTP client your user name is "anonymous" and your
> password is your e-mail address.
>
> For Netscape:
>
> <ftp://anonymous(at)ftp.eucleides.com/>
>
> Upon connection you will be asked for your password. Enter your e-mail
> address. You can download from the /pub directory and any of its
> subdirectories. You can upload to the /incoming directory only.
>
> For Internet Explorer:
>
> <ftp://ftp.eucleides.com/> You can download only. IE provides no
> authentication.
>
> Remember to let me know that you have posted a file to the /incoming
> directory so that I can post it to the /pub directory.
>
>
> ** L I N U X ** .~. Paul A. Franz, P.E. Engineering Software
> The Choice /V\ Blackdog Software Network Consulting and
Sales
> of the GNU /( )\ <http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/> Custom Web
Services
> Generation
-
(425) 641-8202, (425) 641-1773 FAX Internet FAX
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I am using your 2 relay set up for the flaps. It works very well. I
>planned on using an indicator light to show when the flap motor is
>running. My original plan was to run a wire from the motor + wire to the
>indicator light, but this will only work in one direction, I believe. If
>I run a wire from each the + & - wire I think that would create a short.
>So where can I hook into the circuit to get my positive input to the
>light and show when the flap motor is running?
MTR ------->|-----------
|
|
---- TO LIGHT
|
|
MTR-------->|-----------
get two diodes from Radio Shack . . . 1N400x
where x is any digit. Wire as shown to take a
(+) power sample from either motor lead and
route it to the indicator light. The other
side of the light goes to ground. It wouldn't
hurt to put a 24AWG fusible link or 1A inline
fuse at the junction of the two diodes
before carrying the wire off to the panel
lamp fixture.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vm1000 Reply |
>Bob,
> Thanks for your help. With the holiday the Man was closed down and I was
just frustrated. I'll be more patient the next time and won't use your list.
Thank's again !!!!...Ed
>
No problem Ed . . . besides, it's not MY list . . . it's your list.
I didn't mean to come off sounding that way. My reaction was something
of a knee-jerk thing that grows out of my experience in the heavy-iron
birds working with "committees" set up to fix problems. We can spend
a whole lot of killobuck/hour time discussing information that doesn't
come from the most knowledgeable source . . .
The list is an excellent way to share experiences. Several folks
responded to your initial note with stories that confirmed
the same symptoms and said they weren't a problem. This is
a GOOD thing and it's exactly what the list is for. Excellent
info when (like the past holiday) the best sources are unavailable
to you. But like the "committees" I mentioned, it's easy to
relax the search for a real root-cause based on acceptance of
anecdotal information.
When someone (such as yourself) talks to The Man and can offer
his responses to the question, the info is no longer anecdotal
and its value increases greatly.
It's my sincere wish that nobody believes this list is anyone's
personal property or is somehow policed or controlled by anyone.
I'll also beg the indulgence of the list subscribers to
cut a grey-haired ol' fart some slack when he gets in a hurry
and uses a poor choice of words. My signature banner
isn't intended to be facetious or confrontational. I offer it
for what I hope is the goal of everyone here - to participate
in the fabrication of the best airplanes to have ever flown.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Morris" <Jerry.Morris(at)nsc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attn: Bob Nuckolls/Exhaust Gas Indicator |
on the subject of suppliers
www.jcwhitney.com
jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
gage
pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Lever lock switch source |
Sorry, that part number should be MS24658-23D. The Honeywell part number is
1TL1-3D.
Bruce
Glasair III
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce
Gray
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Lever lock switch source
Try MS24658. Then look at
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/environment/catalog/379.pdf
Bruce
Glasair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald A. Cox" <racox(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 11/26/01 |
Vince:
Overdone it? Heck, no!
Great, straightforward explanation. That's what this list is all about.
I didn't ask, but I sure did read and enjoy the answer. I admit I had the
basic principle before, but that helped me a lot.
Thanks, from another non-engineer!
Ron
(Glasair Super II F/T under construction at C77 near RFD)
> From: Vince Orton <vorton(at)pacstates.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Could somebody please explain impedance to
me?
>
>
>
> >
> >Could somebody please explain impedance to me.
> >
> >
> >Thanks, Dave Leonard
> >
> *****
> Dave -
>
> Sure, I'll give it a try.
>
>
> I hope I haven't overdone it on my first post. Great list guys - keep up
> the work. I'll be joining you soon ...
>
> Vince Orton
> Southern Calif.
> (Lurking - don't know what plane to build yet ...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Brown Tool Gift Certificate Reminder... |
Hi Listers,
Just a reminder that in support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael
Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has
generously offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making
Contributions of $30 or more this year!
Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for
the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure
Credit Card Contribution Web Site at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings
attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site
or Catalog."
The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List
Contribution and is according to the following:
$100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate!
or
$30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to:
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com
and include the following information:
1) Subject Line: Tool Offer
2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25)
3) [Your Name]
4) [Your Mailing Address]
5) [Your City, State Zip]
** Please only use the email address shown above (
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate!
*** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for
the Gift Certificate! But, you have to follow the instructions above to
receive it!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks.
I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this
wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a
look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own
it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools.
I would like to thank everyone that has already made a Contribution in this
year's Fund Raiser!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jakent(at)unison.ie |
| Subject: | Locking bat SPDT switches(military/airline type) |
I got mine for my RV-4 when a local maintenance outfit culled its stock of 707
era spares(all new but not well documented stuff).
My BATT and ALT switches will lock ON or OFF.
They are stamped "1TL1-3D" and"MS24658-23D".
They were made by Micro Switch, Freeport, Illinois 61032, a division of Honeywell
(or, I assume, it's current corporate transmogrification!).
I hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lever lock switch source |
>
>I've been digging through various vendor catalogs looking for lever
>lock switches. I find lots of them, but none with the particular mix
>of characteristics I'm looking for. Maybe the switch I want doesn't
>exist, but more likely I simply don't know where to find it. I'd
>appreciate any pointers.
>
>I'm looking for simple SPST, ON-OFF switches, with the largish lever
>lock handles that you see on a lot of military or commercial
>aircraft. Something like the ones you see on King Air 90 Auto
>Ignition, or Bleed Valves. I want the ones where you have to pull
>the lever lock to move the switch in either direction. Ideally,
>these switches would have fast-on tabs, but I'll accept ones that
>take ring terminals in a pinch. No solder-on stuff please.
get this catalog from honeywell:
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/manual/catalog/c30136.pdf
note that the last two columns for describing the various models
show the lever-lock options.
I believe both Allied and Newark stock some of these switches
http://www.alliedelec.com/default.asp
http://search.newark.com/product_search.phtml
personally, I've found that leverlocks are more likely to get
in the way of a deliberate movement than they are to prevent
an accidental movement . . . in 1500 hours of personal flying
and from dozens of queries to forum and seminar attendees,
I've yet to discover a single incident of a tense airborne
situation arising from and inadvertent switch positioning
action.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Villi Seemann <villi.seemann(at)nordea.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 11/27/01 |
>I'm looking for simple SPST, ON-OFF switches, with the largish lever
>lock handles that you see on a lot of military or commercial
>aircraft. Something like the ones you see on King Air 90 Auto
>Ignition, or Bleed Valves. I want the ones where you have to pull
>the lever lock to move the switch in either direction. Ideally,
>these switches would have fast-on tabs, but I'll accept ones that
>take ring terminals in a pinch. No solder-on stuff please.
LancAir sells these with theit kits for gear up/dwn selector
Regards
Villi H. Seemann
Senior Engineer
Infrastructure Network
Phone (+45) 3333 2101
FAX (+45) 3333 1130
CellPhn (+45)2220 7690
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Lever lock switch source |
>
>I've been digging through various vendor catalogs looking for lever
>lock switches. I find lots of them, but none with the particular mix
>of characteristics I'm looking for. Maybe the switch I want doesn't
>exist, but more likely I simply don't know where to find it. I'd
>appreciate any pointers.
>
>I'm looking for simple SPST, ON-OFF switches, with the largish lever
>lock handles that you see on a lot of military or commercial
>aircraft. Something like the ones you see on King Air 90 Auto
>Ignition, or Bleed Valves. I want the ones where you have to pull
>the lever lock to move the switch in either direction. Ideally,
>these switches would have fast-on tabs, but I'll accept ones that
>take ring terminals in a pinch. No solder-on stuff please.
>
>Does anyone know where I can find these critters?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Thanks to everyone who replied, both on and off list. I'd literally
spent hours digging through catalogs and web sites trying to find
these guys.
To summarize for the archives - The switches I want are made by
Honeywell's Micro Switch division, apparently also sold as Selecta
Switch. Part number 1T L1-3D or MS24658-23D. Manufacturer's info at:
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/environment/catalog/379.pdf
http://catalog.micro.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/1tl1.series.chart.2.pdf
Allied has them in stock, but they don't appear in the catalog. I
used the search engine on their catalog and searched for the
manufacturer's PN to find them. Current price is about $34.
Newark stocks them too, but a bit more expensive.
http://www.alliedelec.com/default.asp
http://search.newark.com/product_search.phtml
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBFLESHREN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hurry -Switch deal |
Hello gang , F.Y.I. there is a great deal on Ebay for a lot of milspec
switchs see item # 1667090090 you have about 30 minutes from now till
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul(at)eucleides.com> |
Very unusual - no messages since 7 AM this morning. If its just me, would
someone mail me direct?
Thanks.
** L I N U X ** .~. Paul A. Franz, P.E. Engineering Software
The Choice /V\ Blackdog Software Network Consulting and Sales
of the GNU /( )\ <http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/> Custom Web Services
Generation
-
(425) 641-8202, (425) 641-1773 FAX Internet FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul(at)eucleides.com> |
It's working now.
But this is the first posting I've seen since 7:09 AM. Including none of
the other posts I made.
At 03:42 PM 11/28/2001Paul A. Franz, P.E. sez:
>
>
>Very unusual - no messages since 7 AM this morning. If its just me, would
>someone mail me direct?
>
>Thanks.
** L I N U X ** .~. Paul A. Franz, P.E. Engineering Software
The Choice /V\ Blackdog Software Network Consulting and Sales
of the GNU /( )\ <http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/> Custom Web Services
Generation
-
(425) 641-8202, (425) 641-1773 FAX Internet FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
>
>on the subject of suppliers
>
>www.jcwhitney.com
>
>
>jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
>gage
>pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
>and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
>
>but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
>
Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
sensor/indicator system.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>on the subject of suppliers
>
>www.jcwhitney.com
>
>
>jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
>gage
>pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
>and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
>
>but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
>
Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
sensor/indicator system.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned Thomas" <nthomas(at)mmcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
That's my understanding as well. O2 sensores will quickly be contamiated and
no lolnger work with unleaded fuel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
> Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> L. Nuckolls, III
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >on the subject of suppliers
> >
> >www.jcwhitney.com
> >
> >
> >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> >gage
> >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> >
> >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> >
>
> Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> sensor/indicator system.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
nothing but
100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
an O2 sensor
exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
true.
HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
changes
(milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
and prevent
those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
(emissions control),
it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
> Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> L. Nuckolls, III
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >on the subject of suppliers
> >
> >www.jcwhitney.com
> >
> >
> >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> >gage
> >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> >
> >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> >
>
> Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> sensor/indicator system.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Flap motor control |
Trained in C-152. Now, as I plan my RV:
.... I will install electric flaps. Rather than a flap motor that is on
a switch, with an indicator which must be checked to see what amount of
partial flaps have been deployed, ( or look at the flaps themselves), I
would like to do both: 1. Be able to position a switch at a couple of
detents of flap deployment... without looking, and have the flaps deploy
that much as in Cessna switch set-up... ( I look to confirm
subsequently) . AND 2. be able to choose flaps in between such
notched settings as per an indicator.
Has anyone done this?
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Ed could a person that does not venture into black boxes put your system
together. If so i would love to have a diagram and parts list. Maybe one of
my more gifted friend could help. I don't have panel space for another gauge
by I could arrange the LEDs very nicely. Yesterday was the first time my
EGTs were right but the fuel mixture was to lean. Leads me to believe this
is a good idea.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed
Anderson
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
nothing but
100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
an O2 sensor
exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
true.
HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
changes
(milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
and prevent
those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
(emissions control),
it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
> Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> L. Nuckolls, III
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >on the subject of suppliers
> >
> >www.jcwhitney.com
> >
> >
> >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> >gage
> >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> >
> >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> >
>
> Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> sensor/indicator system.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> < show me where I'm wrong. >
> =================================
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Ed,
Do you know where I could get a data sheet on these sensors? I'm
assuming that these devices output a certain voltage when the oxygen
content in the exhaust corresponds with a 14.7-1 fuel/air mixture. I
suppose I could weld a boss on my exhaust coming off the hottest running
cylinder--so one sensor should be sufficient for leaning purposes.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 246 hours
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Anderson [mailto:eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 9:09 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio
> sensor) using 10 LEDs
> to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have
> 115 hours of
> nothing but
> 100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too
> had heard that
> an O2 sensor
> exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few
> hours. Simply not
> true.
>
> HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
> the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough
> to exhaust
> changes
> (milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management
> system (computer)
> and prevent
> those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in
> an automobile
> (emissions control),
> it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it.
> BUT, if you
> simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide
> and indication of
> relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for
> hundreds of hours.
>
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
> >
> > Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> > contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Robert
> > L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >on the subject of suppliers
> > >
> > >www.jcwhitney.com
> > >
> > >
> > >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a
> round 2 1/16
> > >gage
> > >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> > >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> > >
> > >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this
> gauge....
> > >
> >
> > Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> > one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> > they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> > a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> > anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> > sensor/indicator system.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ============
> [#########--------------------16.1%----------------------------]
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Mullins <n323xl(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Rick,
Check out this LED mixture meter at simple digital systems. I have one on my
panel.
http://www.sdsefi.com/mmm.htm
My panel pages are at: http://n323xl.iwarp.com/blinstpanel1.htm
Dave Mullins KR2S
Nashua, New Hampshire
http://n323xl.iwarp.com
Rick wrote:
>
> Ed could a person that does not venture into black boxes put your system
> together. If so i would love to have a diagram and parts list. Maybe one of
> my more gifted friend could help. I don't have panel space for another gauge
> by I could arrange the LEDs very nicely. Yesterday was the first time my
> EGTs were right but the fuel mixture was to lean. Leads me to believe this
> is a good idea.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed
> Anderson
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
> to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
> nothing but
> 100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
> an O2 sensor
> exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
> true.
>
> HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
> the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
> changes
> (milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
> and prevent
> those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
> (emissions control),
> it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
> simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
> relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >
> > Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> > contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> > L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >on the subject of suppliers
> > >
> > >www.jcwhitney.com
> > >
> > >
> > >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> > >gage
> > >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> > >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> > >
> > >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> > >
> >
> > Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> > one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> > they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> > a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> > anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> > sensor/indicator system.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vern Smith <vismith(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
Hi Ed..do you have a schematic diagram available? Regards, Vern Smith
vismith(at)sympatico.ca
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10 LEDs
> to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
> nothing but
> 100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
> an O2 sensor
> exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply not
> true.
>
> HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
> the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
> changes
> (milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
> and prevent
> those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
> (emissions control),
> it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
> simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication of
> relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of hours.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >
> > Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> > contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> > L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >on the subject of suppliers
> > >
> > >www.jcwhitney.com
> > >
> > >
> > >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> > >gage
> > >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> > >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> > >
> > >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> > >
> >
> > Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> > one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> > they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> > a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> > anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> > sensor/indicator system.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
David, very nice. I really appreciate that. That little unit should work
fine. OF course unless one is familiar with Canadian currency how big is
little. Where did you place the sensor on you application? Thanks
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Mullins
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
Rick,
Check out this LED mixture meter at simple digital systems. I have one on my
panel.
http://www.sdsefi.com/mmm.htm
My panel pages are at: http://n323xl.iwarp.com/blinstpanel1.htm
Dave Mullins KR2S
Nashua, New Hampshire
http://n323xl.iwarp.com
Rick wrote:
>
> Ed could a person that does not venture into black boxes put your system
> together. If so i would love to have a diagram and parts list. Maybe one
of
> my more gifted friend could help. I don't have panel space for another
gauge
> by I could arrange the LEDs very nicely. Yesterday was the first time my
> EGTs were right but the fuel mixture was to lean. Leads me to believe this
> is a good idea.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed
> Anderson
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10
LEDs
> to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
> nothing but
> 100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
> an O2 sensor
> exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply
not
> true.
>
> HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
> the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
> changes
> (milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
> and prevent
> those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
> (emissions control),
> it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
> simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication
of
> relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of
hours.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >
> > Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> > contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> > L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >on the subject of suppliers
> > >
> > >www.jcwhitney.com
> > >
> > >
> > >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> > >gage
> > >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> > >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> > >
> > >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> > >
> >
> > Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> > one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> > they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> > a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> > anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> > sensor/indicator system.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Contributors Down By 25%... |
Dear Listers,
First I want to thank everyone that has already so generously made a
Contribution toward this year 2001 List Fund Raiser. It is your support
that makes these Lists possible.
Since there are only a couple more days until the official end of this
year's drive, I want to share some statistics regarding this and previous
Fund Raiser percentages. In years past, the percentage of members making a
Contribution to support the Lists has typically been right around 23% of
the total List population. This year, however, you'll note from the
Contribution Meter that we're only at a little over 16% for some
reason. This is down by roughly 7%, and translates into about a *30%
decrease* in participation this year!
I'm hoping that everyone is just waiting until the very last minute to make
their Contribution this year, and that the needle on the Contribution Meter
will still creep up to the normal 23% in the next few days! Saturday or
Sunday I will be posting the 2001 List of Contributors, so you'll want to
heat up that Contribution Web Site right away to make sure your name is on
the 2001 LOC!!
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
I am planning on using Ray Allen stick grips on my RV-6, to control my
electric trim. For each stick to have elevator trim, they (Allen) say that
you need to use their "relay unit", which is $35. I was thinking (in my
cheap mind) that there has to be a way to use the $5 Radio Shack relays to
accomplish the same thing.
1) Will this work?
2) Any specific relay needed?
Thanks.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Finish
Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I thought the switches in their stick grips were rated so you don't need
relays. If you do need relays, the cheap ones will do. What some of us are
doing that are using the Infinity grips is use Matt's governor for relay and
speed control. (http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm) Some folks
have found that the MAC units are to fast and therefore to sensitive and
need to be slowed down. Matts units slow them down without reducing their
torque as well as act as a relay.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Relays 101
>
> I am planning on using Ray Allen stick grips on my RV-6, to control my
> electric trim. For each stick to have elevator trim, they (Allen) say
that
> you need to use their "relay unit", which is $35. I was thinking (in my
> cheap mind) that there has to be a way to use the $5 Radio Shack relays to
> accomplish the same thing.
>
> 1) Will this work?
> 2) Any specific relay needed?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 Finish
> Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
Hi Keith,
Or you could use a 4PDT switch (which is what I did), but then you have to select
which side has control over the trim. Having gone the other way with my RV-4,
I thought I would try it this way on the RV-6. It gets real busy wiring the
relays, etc., the switch simplifies the wiring a little.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 Flying
RV-6 Finish Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Hughes
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Relays 101
net>
I am planning on using Ray Allen stick grips on my RV-6, to control my
electric trim. For each stick to have elevator trim, they (Allen) say that
you need to use their "relay unit", which is $35. I was thinking (in my
cheap mind) that there has to be a way to use the $5 Radio Shack relays to
accomplish the same thing.
1) Will this work?
2) Any specific relay needed?
Thanks.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Finish
Denver, CO
=
=
=
=
c-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: The Leading Edge of Airframe Design |
> Perhaps a vernier throttle would be useful for this engine.
> What kind of rate-of-climb were you getting with this load?
>
>
> Bob . . .
Hi Bob,
I'm back in England now. The Rotax 914 is a turbocharged engine. On Europas
a gate is fitted to prevent giving full boost unintentionally. Going
through the gate gives a distinct push ion the back on take off, just when
you want it. A vernier would not work. Quadrant is much better.
Any news on the Microair radios yet?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator size 40 or 60 amp? |
I'm getting ready to engine my RV-6 and I'm trying to figure out how big
an alternator I'll need. I'll be running all electric with :
RC Allen horizon and DG, Navaid ap, EI ubg16, Matronics fuelscan,
Van's gauges for about everything else, KMD 150 gps, KX 165 and
indicator, and a transponder, 2 100watt landing lights (wigwag), whelen
comet flash strobes, pitot heat, dual lightspeed ignitions and electric
trim.
The documentation that I've got doesn't tell me what the power
consumption is on most of this stuff. I've tried to measure the amps on
a gyro with my multimeter and got nowhere.
Any ideas?
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator size 40 or 60 amp? |
Ed,
I measured the current draw on my RC Allen horizon. It starts at 1.5 amp and
then gradually goes down to 0.76 amp as it gets up to speed. This was
measured at 12.4 volts using just a battery. The current draw may be
slightly different at 14 volts with alternator on line.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I'm getting ready to engine my RV-6 and I'm trying to figure out how big
an alternator I'll need. I'll be running all electric with :
RC Allen horizon and DG, Navaid ap, EI ubg16, Matronics fuelscan,
Van's gauges for about everything else, KMD 150 gps, KX 165 and
indicator, and a transponder, 2 100watt landing lights (wigwag), whelen
comet flash strobes, pitot heat, dual lightspeed ignitions and electric
trim.
The documentation that I've got doesn't tell me what the power
consumption is on most of this stuff. I've tried to measure the amps on
a gyro with my multimeter and got nowhere.
Any ideas?
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor control |
Robert,
I too am using the electric flap motor w/ just a momentary toggle switch. I
am using a small magnet glued inside of the flap and on the inside of the
fuselage I have mounted 3 reed switches (like the ones you get for a window
in a home security system), each positioned for 10,20,30 degrees of flaps.
At the panel where you mount the toggle switch you can wire in 3 LEDs and
resistors or 3 filament type indicator lamps and as the flaps move through
each position it will light up to tell you what position your flaps setting
is in. I am working on my motor mount for my 601XL.
Hope this helps.
Bob
N601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Miller" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Flap motor control
>
> Trained in C-152. Now, as I plan my RV:
> .... I will install electric flaps. Rather than a flap motor that is on
> a switch, with an indicator which must be checked to see what amount of
> partial flaps have been deployed, ( or look at the flaps themselves), I
> would like to do both: 1. Be able to position a switch at a couple of
> detents of flap deployment... without looking, and have the flaps deploy
> that much as in Cessna switch set-up... ( I look to confirm
> subsequently) . AND 2. be able to choose flaps in between such
> notched settings as per an indicator.
> Has anyone done this?
> Robert
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Listers,
A couple List Members have asked if the Lists are "in trouble financially"
and wanted to know if this is why I was having a Fund Raiser. It got to
thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also
take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide
a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a great amount of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
new List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of
use is outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth
of messages online for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew who where
building RVs. It has grown into nearly 40 different aviation-related Email
Lists and an associated web site that receives over 500,000 hits each
month!! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value
in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing
and improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
The US Mail Address:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator |
The manual says the meter cannot be used with leaded fuels.
OH, well!
Bob
RV8#423 working on fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Mullins
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
Rick,
Check out this LED mixture meter at simple digital systems. I have one on my
panel.
http://www.sdsefi.com/mmm.htm
My panel pages are at: http://n323xl.iwarp.com/blinstpanel1.htm
Dave Mullins KR2S
Nashua, New Hampshire
http://n323xl.iwarp.com
Rick wrote:
>
> Ed could a person that does not venture into black boxes put your system
> together. If so i would love to have a diagram and parts list. Maybe one
of
> my more gifted friend could help. I don't have panel space for another
gauge
> by I could arrange the LEDs very nicely. Yesterday was the first time my
> EGTs were right but the fuel mixture was to lean. Leads me to believe this
> is a good idea.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed
> Anderson
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
>
> I have a homemade Air/Fuel indicator (Oxygen ratio sensor) using 10
LEDs
> to indicate relative richness or leaness of mixture. I have 115 hours of
> nothing but
> 100LL on the O2 sensor and it still works just fine. I too had heard that
> an O2 sensor
> exposed to leaded gas would die in a few minutes to a few hours. Simply
not
> true.
>
> HOWEVER, apparently, leaded gasoline DOES contaminate the sensor to
> the point that it loses its ability to respond quickly enough to exhaust
> changes
> (milliseconds) to control an automobile Fuel management system (computer)
> and prevent
> those bad exhaust emissions. So for its intended purpose in an automobile
> (emissions control),
> it is essentially correct that leaded gas will degrade it. BUT, if you
> simply want to use an O2 sensor in your exhaust to provide and indication
of
> relative fuel mixture, it will work fine using 100 LL for hundreds of
hours.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
>
>
> >
> > Do these O2 sensors work with leaded fuel? I've heard they get
> > contaminated and stop working but that could be old wife's tale.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> > L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Exhaust Gas Indicator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >on the subject of suppliers
> > >
> > >www.jcwhitney.com
> > >
> > >
> > >jc whitney air/fuel ratio gauge a bar graph mounted in a round 2 1/16
> > >gage
> > >pn 81ts5401x... $35.95
> > >and oxygen sensor for above is 81ts5403t .... $49.95
> > >
> > >but any standard automobile ox sensor will work with this gauge....
> > >
> >
> > Jerry. Thanks for the heads up on this. By the time
> > one bought the parts and put this indicator together,
> > they'd have more than $50 tied up in it. Looks like
> > a good way to go. Would be interested in hearing of
> > anyone's experience with this or any similar o2
> > sensor/indicator system.
> >
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > ////
> > (o o)
> > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> > < Go ahead, make my day . . . >
> > < show me where I'm wrong. >
> > =================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike & Lee Anne (mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca)" <mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: flap position for RV |
>
Robert, here's something you might consider. It's a simplification (and in my
opinion,
an
improvement) on the Cessna system. A little more difficult to construct, but elegantly
simple to use. I first saw this in a Diamond Katana, so find a local dealer and
check
it out.
Flap switch is not a momentary contact switch like the days of old, but is simply
a 3
position
switch. Top position is cruise (flaps up), middle position is takeoff flaps, bottom
position is
landing flaps. No opportunity for screw ups in deployment. You do have to give
up the
feeling that you "need" that infinite number of middle settings - sometimes a hard
thing
for us
homebuilders to do, but in my opinion the right thing if you are really looking
for
simplicity. After
a lot of discussion with the Diamond factory people about this, I am convinced.
My next
airplane
will have this, but I haven't figured out the behind the scenes wiring to make
it
happen. I'm
sure some listers here will know how, but it might be simpler to check with the
Diamond
Aircraft folks.
Mike
>
> Trained in C-152. Now, as I plan my RV:
> .... I will install electric flaps. Rather than a flap motor that is on
> a switch, with an indicator which must be checked to see what amount of
> partial flaps have been deployed, ( or look at the flaps themselves), I
> would like to do both: 1. Be able to position a switch at a couple of
> detents of flap deployment... without looking, and have the flaps deploy
> that much as in Cessna switch set-up... ( I look to confirm
> subsequently) . AND 2. be able to choose flaps in between such
> notched settings as per an indicator.
> Has anyone done this?
> Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
I'm currently using my Magellan GPS315A to drive the Anywhere map on my iPAQ.
More frequently I've begun to loose signal ("Poor GPS Coverage"), so I'm looking
for
an alternative (read backup) GPS to feed the iPAQ.
I'm surprised to find that the Garmin GPS35 sells for more than $180 whereas I
can buy
a Magellan GPS310 for $100 at Walmart.
Apart from having to push the "Power on" button on the GPS310, is there any advantage
to using the GPS35?
Anybody know of a cheap source for a GPS35?
Finn
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap position for RV |
I agree with your points here...
but - What kind of switch? How to include indicator? Circuit design?
These are the questions I have... as I already have a preference for a
system similar to your thoughts.
Robert
Mike & Lee Anne (mwiebe(at)sympatico.ca) wrote:
>
>
>Robert, here's something you might consider. It's a simplification (and in my
opinion,
>an
>improvement) on the Cessna system. A little more difficult to construct, but
elegantly
>simple to use. I first saw this in a Diamond Katana, so find a local dealer and
check
>it out.
>Flap switch is not a momentary contact switch like the days of old, but is simply
a 3
>position
>switch. Top position is cruise (flaps up), middle position is takeoff flaps,
bottom
>position is
>landing flaps. No opportunity for screw ups in deployment. You do have to give
up the
>feeling that you "need" that infinite number of middle settings - sometimes a
hard thing
>for us
>homebuilders to do, but in my opinion the right thing if you are really looking
for
>simplicity. After
>a lot of discussion with the Diamond factory people about this, I am convinced.
My next
>airplane
>will have this, but I haven't figured out the behind the scenes wiring to make
it
>happen. I'm
>sure some listers here will know how, but it might be simpler to check with the
Diamond
>Aircraft folks.
>
>Mike
>
>
>>Trained in C-152. Now, as I plan my RV:
>>.... I will install electric flaps. Rather than a flap motor that is on
>>a switch, with an indicator which must be checked to see what amount of
>>partial flaps have been deployed, ( or look at the flaps themselves), I
>>would like to do both: 1. Be able to position a switch at a couple of
>>detents of flap deployment... without looking, and have the flaps deploy
>>that much as in Cessna switch set-up... ( I look to confirm
>>subsequently) . AND 2. be able to choose flaps in between such
>>notched settings as per an indicator.
>>Has anyone done this?
>>Robert
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
To anyone interested:
An oxygen sensor is available that has a bolt on flange that bolts on to a
surface. The sensor then screws into the flange. The Standard part no. are
SG-17 and SG-18.
SG-17 lists for $89.53 and dealer price is 60.15. SG-18 lists for 54.58 and
dealer is 36.67. They are the same except the SG-17 is a universal one that
comes with a butt connector, and SG-18 comes with the OEM Toyota style
connector. They both come with a separate flange and gasket for the flange
Remember that an O2 sensor must come up to its operating temp before it reads
correctly. So you may not get a correct reading while the engine is warming
up.
Steve
Springfield Auto Parts Co., Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Free Stuff Reminder... |
Dear Listers,
Don't forget that you can receive a free copy of Van's new Video, "The RV
Story" with a $50 or greater contribution this year, or a $10 Gift
Certificate from Brown Tool for a $30 or greater contribution or a $25 Gift
Certificate for a $100 contribution. Below are two URLs for complete
information on the two Offers. Please follow the respective instructions
*carefully*.
Van's Video Offer Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5781141?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09092616692?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Brown Aviation Tool Gift Certificate Information:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5838463?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=09080216166?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
I want to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore and Michael Brown of
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for their generous offers in support the
Lists this year!! Thank you, guys!
I'd like to thank everyone that has already made a generous Contribution in
support of the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary K" <flyink(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap position for RV |
I bought the RV flap motor and cut out an article from December 97
Kitplanes by Mike Palmer for a pushbutton flap controller. I didn't have
much luck finding the pushbutton switch assembly that he mentions so I will
try either a pickup selector switch from an electric guitar or a small lever
connected to a linear slider potentiometer. I have all the parts and wired
some of it but haven't tried it yet. I will have a PC and display in the
panel so I will probably use it for a display and controller but I may use
this circuit in the interim or as a backup. It uses a quad LM324 op amp and
two relays with a linear slider potentiometer sensing the flap position. I
could copy and send the article to anyone that is interested.
I was considering using a "flap enable" switch to prevent inadvertant or
runaway flaps and possibly a "trim enable" push button to prevent runaway
trim. They would both be normally off and provide power to the control
circuits only when enabled before selecting flap or trim position. Does
anyone have any thoughts on either of these?
Gary K.
Pelican PL w/Stratus EA-81
wiring engine and panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Guys,
My "Electrocally Challenged" brain has a question for all of you wizards out
there.
I am have some Electro-Luminescent "Flat-Lite" for my glareshield lighting
on my RV6. I need to create a dimmer for it. The EL strips will work on
variable VOLTAGE (Not Current) from 7 to 12 volt. The inverter pulls only
about 4500Milli Amps, so current is not my problem.
I need to know the easiest way to provide a variable voltage input source.
I know there is rheostats and potentiomenter, but I'm to ignorant to know
which one to get or what size it should be. Basically I need someone to
hold my hand and tell me the technical details on which type of dimmer I
should buy that will provide me variable voltage from 7 volts up to 12
volts.
Thanks,
Stein Bruch.
RV6, slowly wiring! Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
If your lighting is REALLY drawing 4500ma - that's 4.5 amps and is much
to high for a simple potentiometer. Are you SURE it's 4500ma...might it
be 450ma?
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer Question
Hi Guys,
My "Electrocally Challenged" brain has a question for all of you wizards
out
there.
I am have some Electro-Luminescent "Flat-Lite" for my glareshield
lighting
on my RV6. I need to create a dimmer for it. The EL strips will work
on
variable VOLTAGE (Not Current) from 7 to 12 volt. The inverter pulls
only
about 4500Milli Amps, so current is not my problem.
I need to know the easiest way to provide a variable voltage input
source.
I know there is rheostats and potentiomenter, but I'm to ignorant to
know
which one to get or what size it should be. Basically I need someone
to
hold my hand and tell me the technical details on which type of dimmer I
should buy that will provide me variable voltage from 7 volts up to 12
volts.
Thanks,
Stein Bruch.
RV6, slowly wiring! Minneapolis
==
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/aeroelectric-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Bob
>I sent a power spread sheet for my Glasair and some questions.
>Did you ever receive it?
>
>Jim Robinson
>Glasair 79R
The new figure Z-14 in the Revision 10 update
shows what I was talking about on the phone. Two
battery busses for electrically dependent engine
hardware, main bus for 40A alternator, aux bus
for 20A alternator. CB tied right to the main
battery contactor for the gear pump.
You can download the Revision 10 materials
at:
http://209.134.106.21/articles.html
I'd recommend a pair of 16-17 a.h. batteries.
to go with the 40/20 combo of alternators.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Ooops, got an extra zero. That should be 450Ma.
Sorry!
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd
Wenzel
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer Question
<TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com>
If your lighting is REALLY drawing 4500ma - that's 4.5 amps and is much
to high for a simple potentiometer. Are you SURE it's 4500ma...might it
be 450ma?
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dimmer Question
Hi Guys,
My "Electrocally Challenged" brain has a question for all of you wizards
out
there.
I am have some Electro-Luminescent "Flat-Lite" for my glareshield
lighting
on my RV6. I need to create a dimmer for it. The EL strips will work
on
variable VOLTAGE (Not Current) from 7 to 12 volt. The inverter pulls
only
about 4500Milli Amps, so current is not my problem.
I need to know the easiest way to provide a variable voltage input
source.
I know there is rheostats and potentiomenter, but I'm to ignorant to
know
which one to get or what size it should be. Basically I need someone
to
hold my hand and tell me the technical details on which type of dimmer I
should buy that will provide me variable voltage from 7 volts up to 12
volts.
Thanks,
Stein Bruch.
RV6, slowly wiring! Minneapolis
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| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator size 40 or 60 amp? |
Ed,
My partner and I are building an RV with a similr setup (without the
electric RC Allens)
Navaid AP
EI UBG
Van's Gauges
KMD 150 GPS
UPS SL40 (no indicator yet)
KT76A Transponder
2 100 watt lights
Whelen Strobes
No Pitot heat (yet)
Jeff Rose Electronic Ignition
Manual Trim
Turn Coordinator
Electronic Compass
Sony "Entertainment Subsystem" ;-) .
We started out **thinking** that a 35 AMP alternator would work ...I don't
think so!
There is a scenario where the above adds up to over 50 AMPS!
The more likely scenario can *probably* be covered with the 40. But even
though my partner says she will never fly it at night, IFR, in a storm, over
the mountains and that she KNOWS I won't either, we will most likely go with
the 60.
November 13, 2001 - December 01, 2001
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-al