AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ce
July 07, 2003 - July 15, 2003
>
>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
>Finn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
Well, the description says it's transflective, but I really wanted real
life comparison.
Finn
Don Honabach wrote:
>
>Finn,
>
>I believe you want to look for a unit that has a transflective screen.
>These are what I see mentioned whenever viewing issues are mentioned and
>what folks should look for if they don't want viewing issues.
>
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net]
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable?
>
>
>-->
>
>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
>Finn
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
Thank you, Brad!
Now for the next question: No serial port?
Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
cable?
The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
Finn
Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
>Finn,
>
>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an IPaq 3650.
The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect - it's brighter,
easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more evenly lit when
the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much better battery life.
>
>Thanks!
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>RV6AQB underway...
>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>
>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy |
Werner: I found a different discrepancy between the pinout diagram on p 2-11
and the interconnect diagram on p 2-5. I called Honeywell product support at
1-800-257-0726 and got it sorted out. Ask for Glenn at x-2155 if he's
available.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype |
Bill, good work!
I already have Aeroflash tip position & stobes that I paid dearly for - but
I also want to run my IFR RV-6 with all electric engine (efi, ignition) on a
35 amp alternator, so am looking for "load shedding" components.
Put me down for a set.
We ought to be able to do a "replacement in lieu of" for the incandescent
bulbs in the Whelen and Aeroflash tip units.
How about "low current" landing and taxi lights next (to replace Halogen 50
or 100 watt bulbs) - that will be a good "load shedder" for the peak
current portion of flight - night IFR approaches & landings.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube
>
> Well, after a few delays, including learning how to use the
latest
> printed circuit board (PCB) design software, the prototype LED position
> lights are complete and working perfectly. I tested the finished units and
> they put out more than enough light in all directions to meet FAA specs.
>
> Here is a link to the write-up with some pictures:
>
> <http://www.KillaCycle.com/Lights.htm>
>
> The prototype board is designed to lay flat against the aft wall
> of the Vans sheared tip interior space. It's important to note that the
> actual physical lay-out of the components is quite fluid. That is, as long
> as each of the LEDs is pointing in the direction it needs to, it is
> possible to move any of the components wherever you would like or re-shape
> the board completely.
>
> The next iteration of current regulator PCBs will be considerably
> more compact. I thought I might need de-coupling capacitors, so I put in
> pads for them on the prototype PCBs. However, the circuit works fine
> without them so I will eliminate the pads (and the space they occupy) on
> the next design iteration.
>
>
> _ /|
> \'o.O' Bill Dube'
> =(___)= bdube(at)al.noaa.gov
> U
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Finn Hi!
>
> Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
One of my fellow Europa Pilots has just got one with his new Dell PC.
>
> Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
Yes! or at least bright English sunshine! It was the first check we did.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
Yes, there is a serial and USB ports on the Axim just like there are on the IPaq
- you can find pinout specs at this link :
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/bevhoward/SERIAL.htm#Axim
I might also recommend the Axim hardware forums on Dell's web site :
http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board?board.id=dellpda
...there are a number of message threads there from folks who are doing / have
done exactly what you are looking to do.
Best Regards,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/7/2003 at 12:17 PM Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>Thank you, Brad!
>
>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>cable?
>
>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>
>Finn
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Finn,
>>
>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>better battery life.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>RV6AQB underway...
>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>
>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
There is a cradle with serial cable connection, Dell Part No. 310-3475
shown on their website; however I ordered and received Dell Part No.
310-3173, which is just a serial port cable... I haven't tried it yet,
but I also just got a Compaq 3955 on a great deal, and here are the
differnces I can see thus far:
The Compaq 3955 is just *slightly* brighter than the Dell Axim; but the
Axim is far brighter than the 3600/3700 series.
The Axim's battery lasts at least twice as long as the 3955
The 3955 display is about 2mm wider and 2mm taller than the Dell, but
the Dell seems to have a crisper display (same resolution)
The Axim is thicker than the 3955; but it includes a CompactFlash slot.
To get the CF slot on the 3955, you need to get the slide-on CF adapter,
which then makes it thicker than the Axim.
And of course, the Axim is half the price of the 3955!
However, the folks at ControlVision say they have not been able to get
the Axim's serial port to work, as of about 3 months ago... I haven't
tried it yet, but will soon; maybe I'll take the whole kit'n'kaboodle to
Osh and try to load it there, on the spot.
-John
part no. 310-3475
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>Thank you, Brad!
>
>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>cable?
>
>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>
>Finn
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Finn,
>>
>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an IPaq
3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect - it's brighter,
easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more evenly lit when
the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much better battery life.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>RV6AQB underway...
>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>
>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting |
(long)
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I wanted to share with you some recent events surrounding troubleshooting
>'noisy radio' problems in my 1966 Mooney, just in case this ever happens
>to you. The electrical system is standard "store bought" with battery on
>the firewall, 60A PMA'd alternator with external Zeftronics VR with on
>board over voltage protection. The output of the alt goest thru the
>firewall to the bus bar. (NFG). Gage is battery ammeter and I monitor
>bus voltage via a feature on the Stormscope. Regulator has 800 hours on
>it, and the alternator is a rebuilt with approx 50 hours.
Art,
Thank you for sharing this with us. Let's see what tid-bits
of data we can glean from this narrative . . .
Data point: The problem affected transmit audio quality on TWO radios.
We don't know exactly what controllers on the ground heard (I've
never heard one complain of alternator whine, strobe whine,
motorboating,
over modulation distortion, weak modulation, etc. While this would
be very useful to know, controllers are not experienced listeners
of radios . . . they are expected only to be proficient in the
vernacular unique to their training. The best we can reasonably
expect from these guys is, "yeah, I can understand you good,
not so good, just barely or not at all."
Data point: The fact that both radios were affected in both
transmit and receive audio strongly suggests a major electrical
system antagonist. Problems that show up receive-only or transmit-
only can have simple root causes in the avionics suite. However,
problems with so broad a effect tend to be larger hammers
Data point: The "frying" noise is certainly a different source than the
usual culprits . . . alternator whine and strobe whine.
Data point: Turning on extra loads will generally make
alternator whine louder, not go away.
System loads will have no effect on strobe whine or
from other potential antagonists like blower or pump motors.
Data point: no mention was made of poor alternator performance
either in terms of observed readings on instrumentation or
in terms of keeping battery up and carrying normal system loads.
Inferred data point: Alternator is 50-hour part. It wasn't
stated that the noise was never noticed on the old alternator
but after knowing the diagnosis and fix, we can assume this
was true. Given that the malfunction might have started off
very small and grew with time, it's understandable that the
onset of the problem wasn't tied to installation of a "new"
alternator.
Data point: Turning alternator OFF stops the noise.
Data point: The noise was observed over a long
period of time with no other manifestation of failure
(smoked or overheated stuff that looked/smelled bad).
This is a strong suggestion that the problem lies in the low power
side of the alternator system where normal current flows
are on the order of 3A or less and typically less than
1A in cruise. Faults in the output of the alternator tend
to be high energy things that operate for relatively
short periods of time before gross failure occurs.
E.g.: a loose b-lead nut on an alternator tends to burn
the stud off in a few hours of operation.
>
>The lesson, FWIW.
>What started out as a radio annoyance turned out to be a mechanical
>problem on the alternator. The radio and audio noise, as it turns out,
>were the best troubleshooting tools at my disposal. Better that than
>total alternator failure in the goo at night. In the future, I will not
>take changes in headset noise lightly. It could be trying to tell me
>something.
EVERY anomaly is part of a data set. It's like playing the
parlor game CLUE. Some data items are insignificant, others
fit together into a complete story that tells us what's
wrong and suggests a fix. More often than not, problems with
airplanes or any other complex machine are purely mechanical
in nature.
Good piece of work Art, thanks for sharing it with us.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
The Axim is a bit different with regards to the serial port; unlike the IPaq, the
DTR line needs to be raised. Simply connecting TX,RX, and GND won't work.
Not hard, but certainly not obvious...
Cheers,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/7/2003 at 1:45 PM John Rourke wrote:
><jrourke@allied-computer.com>
>
>There is a cradle with serial cable connection, Dell Part No. 310-3475
>shown on their website; however I ordered and received Dell Part No.
>310-3173, which is just a serial port cable... I haven't tried it yet,
>but I also just got a Compaq 3955 on a great deal, and here are the
>differnces I can see thus far:
>
>The Compaq 3955 is just *slightly* brighter than the Dell Axim; but the
>Axim is far brighter than the 3600/3700 series.
>The Axim's battery lasts at least twice as long as the 3955
>The 3955 display is about 2mm wider and 2mm taller than the Dell, but
>the Dell seems to have a crisper display (same resolution)
>The Axim is thicker than the 3955; but it includes a CompactFlash slot.
>To get the CF slot on the 3955, you need to get the slide-on CF adapter,
>which then makes it thicker than the Axim.
>
>And of course, the Axim is half the price of the 3955!
>
>However, the folks at ControlVision say they have not been able to get
>the Axim's serial port to work, as of about 3 months ago... I haven't
>tried it yet, but will soon; maybe I'll take the whole kit'n'kaboodle to
>Osh and try to load it there, on the spot.
>
>-John
>
>
>part no. 310-3475
>
>Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Thank you, Brad!
>>
>>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>>cable?
>>
>>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Brad Benson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>better battery life.
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>>RV6AQB underway...
>>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>>
>>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>>
>>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>>
>>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>>
>>>>Finn
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Little" <stevelittle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (long) |
Robert, can you please remove this email from your list. For some reason I
am getting all this emails....
Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (long)
>
> >
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I wanted to share with you some recent events surrounding troubleshooting
> >'noisy radio' problems in my 1966 Mooney, just in case this ever happens
> >to you. The electrical system is standard "store bought" with battery on
> >the firewall, 60A PMA'd alternator with external Zeftronics VR with on
> >board over voltage protection. The output of the alt goest thru the
> >firewall to the bus bar. (NFG). Gage is battery ammeter and I monitor
> >bus voltage via a feature on the Stormscope. Regulator has 800 hours on
> >it, and the alternator is a rebuilt with approx 50 hours.
>
>
>
>
> Art,
>
> Thank you for sharing this with us. Let's see what tid-bits
> of data we can glean from this narrative . . .
>
> Data point: The problem affected transmit audio quality on TWO radios.
>
> We don't know exactly what controllers on the ground heard (I've
> never heard one complain of alternator whine, strobe whine,
> motorboating,
> over modulation distortion, weak modulation, etc. While this would
> be very useful to know, controllers are not experienced listeners
> of radios . . . they are expected only to be proficient in the
> vernacular unique to their training. The best we can reasonably
> expect from these guys is, "yeah, I can understand you good,
> not so good, just barely or not at all."
>
> Data point: The fact that both radios were affected in both
> transmit and receive audio strongly suggests a major electrical
> system antagonist. Problems that show up receive-only or transmit-
> only can have simple root causes in the avionics suite. However,
> problems with so broad a effect tend to be larger hammers
>
> Data point: The "frying" noise is certainly a different source than
the
> usual culprits . . . alternator whine and strobe whine.
>
> Data point: Turning on extra loads will generally make
> alternator whine louder, not go away.
>
> System loads will have no effect on strobe whine or
> from other potential antagonists like blower or pump motors.
>
> Data point: no mention was made of poor alternator performance
> either in terms of observed readings on instrumentation or
> in terms of keeping battery up and carrying normal system loads.
>
> Inferred data point: Alternator is 50-hour part. It wasn't
> stated that the noise was never noticed on the old alternator
> but after knowing the diagnosis and fix, we can assume this
> was true. Given that the malfunction might have started off
> very small and grew with time, it's understandable that the
> onset of the problem wasn't tied to installation of a "new"
> alternator.
>
> Data point: Turning alternator OFF stops the noise.
>
> Data point: The noise was observed over a long
> period of time with no other manifestation of failure
> (smoked or overheated stuff that looked/smelled bad).
>
> This is a strong suggestion that the problem lies in the low power
> side of the alternator system where normal current flows
> are on the order of 3A or less and typically less than
> 1A in cruise. Faults in the output of the alternator tend
> to be high energy things that operate for relatively
> short periods of time before gross failure occurs.
> E.g.: a loose b-lead nut on an alternator tends to burn
> the stud off in a few hours of operation.
>
>
> >
> >The lesson, FWIW.
> >What started out as a radio annoyance turned out to be a mechanical
> >problem on the alternator. The radio and audio noise, as it turns out,
> >were the best troubleshooting tools at my disposal. Better that than
> >total alternator failure in the goo at night. In the future, I will not
> >take changes in headset noise lightly. It could be trying to tell me
> >something.
>
> EVERY anomaly is part of a data set. It's like playing the
> parlor game CLUE. Some data items are insignificant, others
> fit together into a complete story that tells us what's
> wrong and suggests a fix. More often than not, problems with
> airplanes or any other complex machine are purely mechanical
> in nature.
>
> Good piece of work Art, thanks for sharing it with us.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting |
(long)
>
>
>Robert, can you please remove this email from your list. For some reason I
>am getting all this emails....
>
>Thank you.
You do this at the same place where you originally subscribed.
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
<<(Drilling straight-in is the hard part)>>
I installed one on an IO360 A3B6D not to long ago. To keep the drill straight
(perpendicular to the case surface) find a small square block of aluminum
or steel with a thickness a little less than the clearance between the case and
the back side of the flange. Drill a pilot hole through it on your drill press.
Now you have a drill guide. Just hold it firmly against the case and insert
the drill through the pilot hole.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
I did a side-by-side in bright sunlight comparo between my Axim and a 3800 series
iPAQ and there seemed to be little difference. Neither were very good with the
light in front of you (behind the PDA) but with the sun behind you shining
directly on the screen, the Axim really shone! The serial cable I purchased from
Dell works fine with the PCFlightSystems EFIS system as far as the GPS & AHRS
goes, but will have to wait till installation complete in the plane to see how
the Navaid/Porcine interface responds...
From The PossumWorks
Mark
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
> Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
> Finn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
LSE also makes a hall effect module that you can stick in the hole where the
mag used to be. Probably not as reliable as the crank sensor but it would
be easier to install. It's more expensive too. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
>
> I received my electronic ignition from Light Speed Engineering a couple of
days ago. I'm preparing to install it on my Lycoming O-235 but can't figure
out how to drill tap the holes for the sensor bracket without splitting the
case.The way I see itnowthe holes in the prop flange don't line up with the
sensor bracket mounting holes so it seems the case has to be split and the
crank removed? But then I wont have the crank to center the bracket on. How
do I get the drill behind the prop flange?
> Advice from someone who has installed one would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Krueger
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | wire "forking" question |
I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
how to wire the 3 position lights.
Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok, so
2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
the wire out 3 ways would be.
I would lean toward this...
14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some "fork"
point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
there out to the 3 lights?
See what I'm getting at?
It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
wires, etc.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
together. Is this correct?
The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
I have attached the FADEC recommended electrical schematics for your
review.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
Richard,
I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then double clicked
new filename to see if it would open - - Windows ME didn't
have anything to open it with.
- Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site - found a Pascal
pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal compiler/pgm
on this machine to run this thing.
- The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
funciton . . ."
- Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>
> If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
> using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
> virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you can put the
> entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
> asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and pan
> and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps the
> detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
>
> Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to convert it
> to PDF format.
>
> Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have AutoCAD
> could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
>
> http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
>
> This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> RV-9A right wing
>
> David Carter wrote:
>
> >
> >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
> >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that I've made
which I'd like comments on.
> >
> >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system to
power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic fuel inj &
ignition).
> >
> >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments, etc
will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses. I'm seeking
"validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
> >
> >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a cad
program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get the part of
the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
> > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right and
lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all details
are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and attach all 4
to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the drawing.
> >
> >David Carter
> >RV-6
> >Nederland, Texas
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ageless Wings" <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
David...
Here's a fantastic little (LITTLE? ) graphic viewer/editor that reads,
displays, edits and converts just about every type of raster graphic file
you can find (including wmf). It also has a really great album/image
organizing program and slide show viewer. Everything in one package, and
it's totally free for the download!
I've been using commercial versions of graphic software for years....this
beats almost all of them.
http://www.irfanview.com/
Harley
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
>> Carter
>> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 7:00 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard,
>>
>> I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then
>> double clicked
>> new filename to see if it would open - -
>> Windows ME didn't
>> have anything to open it with.
>> - Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site -
>> found a Pascal
>> pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal
>> compiler/pgm
>> on this machine to run this thing.
>> - The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
>> funciton . . ."
>> - Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
>>
>> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
>>
>> David
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
>> > using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
>> > virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you
>> can put the
>> > entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
>> > asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and pan
>> > and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps the
>> > detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
>> >
>> > Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to
>> convert it
>> > to PDF format.
>> >
>> > Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have AutoCAD
>> > could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
>> >
>> > http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
>> >
>> > This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
>> >
>> > Dick Tasker, 90573
>> > RV-9A right wing
>> >
>> > David Carter wrote:
>> >
>>
>> > >
>> > >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
>> Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
>> > >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that
>> I've made
>> which I'd like comments on.
>> > >
>> > >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system to
>> power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic
>> fuel inj &
>> ignition).
>> > >
>> > >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments, etc
>> will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses.
>> I'm seeking
>> "validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
>> > >
>> > >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a cad
>> program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get
>> the part of
>> the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
>> > > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right and
>> lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all details
>> are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and
>> attach all 4
>> to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the drawing.
>> > >
>> > >David Carter
>> > >RV-6
>> > >Nederland, Texas
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
David -
Am I missing something? Where does one find the Z-14 FADEC version?
We are building a Lancair ES and would like to have the FADEC. At Sun N
fun, we also learned that there would most likely be a brownout condition
for the FADEC if we crank the engine with both batteries. Jabe told us that
the simplest sollution would be to install a heavier battery that would be
used for cranking and that the crossfeed switch would be off until fail;ure
conditions warrant tying the two systems together.
Bob -
We would like your opinion on the FADEC wiring. I have a .DWG file of it
and it looks fairly straight forward wi/r to adapting it to the Z-14.
Thanks to all,
John
> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
> FADEC version,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread so far! Charlie's then Kent's
separate suggestions to press out one of the prop flange bushings did the trick
for drill alignment. Dan's suggestion about using a square block of steel
or aluminum to keep the drill square to the case sounds like a good one too. I'll
probably drill tap next weekend when I have the time.
I'll take photos of my installation and send them in. Hopefully it will be helpful
to others.
I'm nowhaving a little trouble mounting the ignition coils on the top of the case
where it is recommended by LSE.I can think of at least one way of solving the
problem but I'm hopinganyone with experience willtell me what they did. The
tab on theplastic bracket that the ignition coils came on is not 'long' enough
or 'deep' enough to reach a bolt that holds the case together. I'm a little
weary about using plastic and also about putting a bracket on that bolt. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 10:46:52 -0500
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton
Grant,
You shouldn't have to split the cases.
You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
drill to indicate depth.
Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
(Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
Piece of cake
--Kent Ashton.
it would be pretty cool if someone could do a series
of photos from which a comic-book work-instruction can
be crafted. I'd be willing to post such a document
should the photos and data me made available to the
task. Klaus SHOULD be doing this but better that we
do it for ourselves than set around complaining that
he hasn't done it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Try inserting the file into an MS WORD document.
>
> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
>
> David
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RSwanson" <rswan19(at)comcast.net> |
Couldn't agree more. Be using it for several years. Haven't found
anything better or easier.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ageless Wings" <harley(at)AgelessWings.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>
> David...
>
> Here's a fantastic little (LITTLE? ) graphic viewer/editor that reads,
> displays, edits and converts just about every type of raster graphic file
> you can find (including wmf). It also has a really great album/image
> organizing program and slide show viewer. Everything in one package,
and
> it's totally free for the download!
>
> I've been using commercial versions of graphic software for years....this
> beats almost all of them.
>
> http://www.irfanview.com/
>
> Harley
>
>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
David
> >> Carter
> >> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 7:00 PM
> >> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Richard,
> >>
> >> I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then
> >> double clicked
> >> new filename to see if it would open - -
> >> Windows ME didn't
> >> have anything to open it with.
> >> - Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site -
> >> found a Pascal
> >> pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal
> >> compiler/pgm
> >> on this machine to run this thing.
> >> - The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
> >> funciton . . ."
> >> - Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
> >>
> >> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
> >>
> >> David
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
> >> To:
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
> >> > using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
> >> > virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you
> >> can put the
> >> > entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
> >> > asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and
pan
> >> > and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps
the
> >> > detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
> >> >
> >> > Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to
> >> convert it
> >> > to PDF format.
> >> >
> >> > Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have
AutoCAD
> >> > could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
> >> >
> >> > http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
> >> >
> >> > This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
> >> >
> >> > Dick Tasker, 90573
> >> > RV-9A right wing
> >> >
> >> > David Carter wrote:
> >> >
> >>
> >> > >
> >> > >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
> >> Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
> >> > >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that
> >> I've made
> >> which I'd like comments on.
> >> > >
> >> > >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system
to
> >> power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic
> >> fuel inj &
> >> ignition).
> >> > >
> >> > >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments,
etc
> >> will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses.
> >> I'm seeking
> >> "validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
> >> > >
> >> > >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a
cad
> >> program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get
> >> the part of
> >> the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
> >> > > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right
and
> >> lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all
details
> >> are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and
> >> attach all 4
> >> to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the
drawing.
> >> > >
> >> > >David Carter
> >> > >RV-6
> >> > >Nederland, Texas
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
Hi Grant,
A bracket on the case half bolts is the way to go:
A piece of 1" x 1-1/2" x .125 angle aluminum A bit of work with a hack saw
and some plate nuts touch it up with some filing and mild polishing around
the edges. The holes for the bolts can be located by measuring making a
cardboard template. Leave room under the mount deck for the plate nuts to
clear the case halves. Two longer no.8 course thread bolts tourqued to
spec. A couple of bolts for the coils and you are done.
Torque the case halves right and all will be well,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
>
>
> Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread so far! Charlie's then
Kent's separate suggestions to press out one of the prop flange bushings did
the trick for drill alignment. Dan's suggestion about using a square block
of steel or aluminum to keep the drill square to the case sounds like a good
one too. I'll probably drill tap next weekend when I have the time.
>
>
> I'll take photos of my installation and send them in. Hopefully it will be
helpful to others.
>
>
> I'm nowhaving a little trouble mounting the ignition coils on the top of
the case where it is recommended by LSE.I can think of at least one way of
solving the problem but I'm hopinganyone with experience willtell me what
they did. The tab on theplastic bracket that the ignition coils came on is
not 'long' enough or 'deep' enough to reach a bolt that holds the case
together. I'm a little weary about using plastic and also about putting a
bracket on that bolt. Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Grant Krueger
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
> Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 10:46:52 -0500
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton
>
> Grant,
> You shouldn't have to split the cases.
> You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
> hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
> a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
> bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
> Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
> need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
> Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
> drill to indicate depth.
> Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
> (Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
> Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
> gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
> stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
> Piece of cake
> --Kent Ashton.
>
> it would be pretty cool if someone could do a series
> of photos from which a comic-book work-instruction can
> be crafted. I'd be willing to post such a document
> should the photos and data me made available to the
> task. Klaus SHOULD be doing this but better that we
> do it for ourselves than set around complaining that
> he hasn't done it.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
<>
Plastic bracket? Hmm, mine was supplied with an aluminum. You can't
clamp plastic with a case bolt and expect the bolt to do anything for holding the
case together. You better fabricate something suitable.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
I guess you could call it a brown-out. The real issue apparently is
cranking with both batteries, draining them both, and then possibly
loosing an alternator on take-off or shortly thereafter. Neither
battery would have enough power to run the FADEC.
Bob was kind enough to draw a FADEC version of Z-14 for me a while ago,
but I think it too ties the batteries together. I'll send it to you
directly.
Regards,
David
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Schroeder
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FADEC / Z-14
David -
Am I missing something? Where does one find the Z-14 FADEC version?
We are building a Lancair ES and would like to have the FADEC. At Sun N
fun, we also learned that there would most likely be a brownout
condition
for the FADEC if we crank the engine with both batteries. Jabe told us
that
the simplest sollution would be to install a heavier battery that would
be
used for cranking and that the crossfeed switch would be off until
fail;ure
conditions warrant tying the two systems together.
Bob -
We would like your opinion on the FADEC wiring. I have a .DWG file of it
and it looks fairly straight forward wi/r to adapting it to the Z-14.
Thanks to all,
John
> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
> FADEC version,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Brusehaver <cozytom(at)mn.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype |
The Cheif Aircraft has a special this month (and
last, so maybe it is something longer). The Welen
nav/strobe 3 light package is 299.50, no power
supply tho.
Still high priced, but $100 cheaper than normal.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi?action=serve&item=/Aircraft/Aircraft.html
David Carter wrote:
>
> Bill, good work!
>
> I already have Aeroflash tip position & stobes that I paid dearly for - but
> I also want to run my IFR RV-6 with all electric engine (efi, ignition) on a
> 35 amp alternator, so am looking for "load shedding" components.
>
> Put me down for a set.
>
> We ought to be able to do a "replacement in lieu of" for the incandescent
> bulbs in the Whelen and Aeroflash tip units.
>
> How about "low current" landing and taxi lights next (to replace Halogen 50
> or 100 watt bulbs) - that will be a good "load shedder" for the peak
> current portion of flight - night IFR approaches & landings.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube
>>
>> Well, after a few delays, including learning how to use the
>
> latest
>
>>printed circuit board (PCB) design software, the prototype LED position
>>lights are complete and working perfectly. I tested the finished units and
>>they put out more than enough light in all directions to meet FAA specs.
>>
>> Here is a link to the write-up with some pictures:
>>
>><http://www.KillaCycle.com/Lights.htm>
>>
>> The prototype board is designed to lay flat against the aft wall
>>of the Vans sheared tip interior space. It's important to note that the
>>actual physical lay-out of the components is quite fluid. That is, as long
>>as each of the LEDs is pointing in the direction it needs to, it is
>>possible to move any of the components wherever you would like or re-shape
>>the board completely.
>>
>> The next iteration of current regulator PCBs will be considerably
>>more compact. I thought I might need de-coupling capacitors, so I put in
>>pads for them on the prototype PCBs. However, the circuit works fine
>>without them so I will eliminate the pads (and the space they occupy) on
>>the next design iteration.
>>
>>
>> _ /|
>> \'o.O' Bill Dube'
>> =(___)= bdube(at)al.noaa.gov
>> U
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
I drilled the holes for the bracket through the prop flange. Keep
turning it until one lines up. If you use a 6 inch or 12 inch drill the
flange hole dosn't have to line up exactly, just enough overlap to allow
the drill shank. I echo the others, call Klaus.
Jim Bean
RV-8 engine room
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>
>I guess you could call it a brown-out. The real issue apparently is
>cranking with both batteries, draining them both, and then possibly
>loosing an alternator on take-off or shortly thereafter. Neither
>battery would have enough power to run the FADEC.
>
>Bob was kind enough to draw a FADEC version of Z-14 for me a while ago,
>but I think it too ties the batteries together. I'll send it to you
>directly.
>
>Regards,
the FADEC version removes the automatic paralleling
feature for cranking that is recommended and shown
in the stock configuration for Z-14. In the FADEC
version, engine is cranked from that main battery
and equipment that cannot live in the real world runs
from the isolated, fantasy bus powered by the aux battery.
There is still a cross-feed feature for use when either
alternator craps . . . in this case, the crossfeed contactor
can be replaced with smaller relay because this circuit
is no longer expected to carry cranking currents.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
Thank you very much, all of you, and especially Brad for the tech info!
Finn
Brad Benson wrote:
>
>Yes, there is a serial and USB ports on the Axim just like there are on the IPaq
- you can find pinout specs at this link :
>
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/bevhoward/SERIAL.htm#Axim
>
>I might also recommend the Axim hardware forums on Dell's web site :
>
>http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board?board.id=dellpda
>
>...there are a number of message threads there from folks who are doing / have
done exactly what you are looking to do.
>
>Best Regards,
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>RV6AQB underway...
>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 7/7/2003 at 12:17 PM Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Thank you, Brad!
>>
>>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>>cable?
>>
>>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Brad Benson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>>>
>>>
>>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>>better battery life.
>>
>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>>RV6AQB underway...
>>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>>>
>>>
>>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>
>>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>>
>>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>>
>>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>>
>>>>Finn
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
>
>
>Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
>FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
>in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
>separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
>together. Is this correct?
The Z-14 I'm looking at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Appendix_Z_Drawings/z14j.pdf
uses an S700-2-50 that is normally down (ALL OFF). For engine
cranking, the switch is raised fully up against the spring loaded
top position to (a) close crossfeed contactor and (b) engerize
starter.
After engine start, the switch is returned to the fully down,
ALL OFF position.
Should one alternator fail, you have the option of moving the
switch to the mid, CROSSFEED ON position to share remaining
alternator power between both systems.
>The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
>FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
>start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
>'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
>keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
>continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
>batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
>automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
This is BS . . . First, any owner of a OBAM aircraft
that "grinds his battery(s) down" getting the engine started
needs to fix his engine. Only ham-fisted spam-can pilots
do such things because fixing anything is always expensive.
If you can't get your engine started in a few revolutions
of the prop and less than 5% of a battery's total capacity,
ESPECIALLY with FADEC, there's something wrong that should
be fixed.
If this is the same FADEC Lancair has been working
with, then they failed to tell you that their system won't
function at battery voltage levels NORMALLY associated
with engine cranking. The REAL reason they need two
batteries is to keep the system from going brain-dead
during cranking.
>If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
>tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
>together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
>redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
>need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
In the FADEC version of Z-14
http://216.55.140.222/temp/z14_FADEC.pdf
we see a single pole, S700-1-3 use to control cross-feed contactor
INDEPENDENTLY of the starter pushbutton. Normal postion of the
crossfeed control during engine cranking is OFF to protect the
fantasy bus.
Except for the acknowledged inability of the FADEC to
live in the real world, there's no reason for any kind
of auto-select of a higher voltage battery . . . especially
if your OBAM aircraft has two properly maintained RG batteries,
two alternators of proven track-record like B&C and the
ability to crossfeed the two systems.
Clearly, folks who produce this system consider
the classic spam-can electrical system to be their major
target market. Shortcomings of these systems (as illustrated
in chapter 17) and the lack of understanding of most
folks who fly them combined with the shortcomings of
their own product SHOULD raise a lot of concern in
the legal department. Hence a "requirement" to drive
the FADEC from dual batteries with some type of
auto-select circuit that favors a higher voltage battery.
You can't send attachments through the list-server but
I suspect the circuit simply takes a pair of diodes to two
batteries such that the higher voltage source picks up
FADEC loads. You can use this if you wish in the
z14_FADEC by simply taking a FADEC feed from both
battery busses . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
>-
>Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
>gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
Good advice
>stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
Turn 1.5 turns clockwise, then 1 turn counterclockwise. Repeat. Every 5
cycles, pull the tap out and clean.
>Piece of cake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire "forking" question |
>
>I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
>how to wire the 3 position lights.
>
>Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok, so
>2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
>
>My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
>the wire out 3 ways would be.
>
>I would lean toward this...
>
>14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
>strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
>
>Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some "fork"
>point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
>there out to the 3 lights?
>
>See what I'm getting at?
>
>It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
>wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
>I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
>wires, etc.
If it were my airplane, I'd use a 7A fuse and bring a single
20AWG from fuse to switch and three 20AWG wires into a single
blue PIDG terminal at the output side of the position
lights switch. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/3x20Blue.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Diode source and ANL location |
Hi Bob,
You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an S704-1
relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
Also, after thinking it over, I see a modest benefit to hanging the starter solenoid
and ANL 40 current limiter on the engine side of the firewall (smaller firewall
penetration, starter contactor away from my feet. Is this an acceptable
environment for these two electrical devices?
thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish kit
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
Richard,
Better tell him about your melted RG-58 to the coils.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom" <tomrv8(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
Hi all,
I'm having a transmitting problem with the radio in my RV-4. Here's the
background;
16 year old Terra TX 720 dinosaur radio with pushbutton frequency change
RST intercom, built by my amatuer hands 16 years ago
Push to talk button on control stick
Reception/ transmission has always been fine, never any grief
Problem;
Other planes I fly with report they are not receiving my voice
transmissions (it is actually intermittent, occasionally they will
"hear" me at good volume)
Factors to consider;
I am receiving full volume sidetone in my headset (I assume that means
the microphone is OK)
Happens whether I'm using the pilot or passenger jacks
Changing headsets has no effect
Ever since the first time I used the radio, it has a very distictive
"ping" when I press the push to talk switch. It is audible both
in my headset, as well as being received by the planes I fly with. Even
now, with the inability of others to hear my voice transmission, the
"ping" is still very audible to them. (I assume that means the antennae is
OK)
When I've tested the unit on the ground using my handheld radio to
listen to the transmission, I clearly hear the "ping", and actually
can hear my voice transmission at a "very" low level.
I would really like you guys to tell me to just throw away the radio and get
a real one and all my troubles will be over , but I'd better make sure the
radio is the culprit before I go to that extreme.
Thanks for the help,
Tom Chapman
RV-4 N153TK
1020 hours of fun
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Scott" <jabiru22(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Seriel multiplexer/swithc |
HI all,
I am connecting the 2 GPS units to the Ipaq for mapping purposes, and I
also want to be able to switch to sat phone or CDMA phone to check
weather and file plans etc, is there a suitable switch that can switch
one serial signal to 5 or so sources, that is small and looks good?
Thanks
Ian
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Bob -
I have the Aerosance FADEC wiring diagrams converted to a .dwg. I'll send
it to you via separate email. Let me know if this address won't work:
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
This issue is critical to our electrical design. Right now, we have one
feed off of each battery buss (Z-14) to a switch on the panel for each lead
and then to the Aerosance FADEC. The Crossfeed will be only an on-off
switch. Start will be a separate switch. Procedurally we would plan to use
one battery (main) to start. This battery would initially be a 17AH RG, but
could easily go to a larger one if experience warrants it. The other
battery would be on for start and will pick up the FADEC demand during
start. As I understand it, each of the two channels of the FADEC are
connected to their own power source and run off of that source. In our
case, it is the two batteries. If one source goes below about 10.5 v, as I
recollect Jabe Luttrell's (Aerosance) words, the unit switches to the
higher voltage source. This looks pretty standard design to me.
If you get the chance to look over the Aerosance diagrams, I would most
appreciate getting your comments and suggestions on whether or not more
mods to Z-14 should be made.
BTW, this is the FADEC that Lancair has been working with. It is also
installed in Velocity's new factory demo. If it would help, I could contact
Velocity to see how they wired it. Their problem initially was not with
electrical. It was with boost pump pressure (engine driven).
Thanks,
John
>> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
>> FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
>> in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
>> separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
>> together. Is this correct?
>
> The Z-14 I'm looking at
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Appendix_Z_Drawings/z14j.pdf
>
> uses an S700-2-50 that is normally down (ALL OFF). For engine
> cranking, the switch is raised fully up against the spring loaded
> top position to (a) close crossfeed contactor and (b) engerize
> starter.
>
> After engine start, the switch is returned to the fully down,
> ALL OFF position.
>
> Should one alternator fail, you have the option of moving the
> switch to the mid, CROSSFEED ON position to share remaining
> alternator power between both systems.
>
>
>> The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
>> FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
>> start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
>> 'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
>> keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
>> continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
>> batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
>> automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
>
>
> This is BS . . . First, any owner of a OBAM aircraft
> that "grinds his battery(s) down" getting the engine started
> needs to fix his engine. Only ham-fisted spam-can pilots
> do such things because fixing anything is always expensive.
> If you can't get your engine started in a few revolutions
> of the prop and less than 5% of a battery's total capacity,
> ESPECIALLY with FADEC, there's something wrong that should
> be fixed.
>
> If this is the same FADEC Lancair has been working
> with, then they failed to tell you that their system won't
> function at battery voltage levels NORMALLY associated
> with engine cranking. The REAL reason they need two
> batteries is to keep the system from going brain-dead
> during cranking.
>
>> If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
>> tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
>> together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
>> redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
>> need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
>
> In the FADEC version of Z-14
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/z14_FADEC.pdf
>
> we see a single pole, S700-1-3 use to control cross-feed contactor
> INDEPENDENTLY of the starter pushbutton. Normal postion of the
> crossfeed control during engine cranking is OFF to protect the
> fantasy bus.
>
> Except for the acknowledged inability of the FADEC to
> live in the real world, there's no reason for any kind
> of auto-select of a higher voltage battery . . . especially
> if your OBAM aircraft has two properly maintained RG batteries,
> two alternators of proven track-record like B&C and the
> ability to crossfeed the two systems.
>
> Clearly, folks who produce this system consider
> the classic spam-can electrical system to be their major
> target market. Shortcomings of these systems (as illustrated
> in chapter 17) and the lack of understanding of most
> folks who fly them combined with the shortcomings of
> their own product SHOULD raise a lot of concern in
> the legal department. Hence a "requirement" to drive
> the FADEC from dual batteries with some type of
> auto-select circuit that favors a higher voltage battery.
>
> You can't send attachments through the list-server but
> I suspect the circuit simply takes a pair of diodes to two
> batteries such that the higher voltage source picks up
> FADEC loads. You can use this if you wish in the
> z14_FADEC by simply taking a FADEC feed from both
> battery busses . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Audio Isolator/Mixer |
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
07/08/2003 09:17:06 AM,
Serialize complete at 07/08/2003 09:17:06 AM
Hi All,
Does anyone have an update on the status of the
audio isolator that Bob was working on?
(Inquiring minds and all that)
Ira N224XS
Wiring 95% done
In Paint Shop!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
Might want to check the connections to the antenna.
If you could rig up another temporary antenna, you might be able to note
whether there is a difference.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 12:54 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio transmission probelm....help!
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having a transmitting problem with the radio in my RV-4. Here's the
> background;
> 16 year old Terra TX 720 dinosaur radio with pushbutton
> frequency change
> RST intercom, built by my amatuer hands 16 years ago
> Push to talk button on control stick
> Reception/ transmission has always been fine, never any grief
>
> Problem;
> Other planes I fly with report they are not receiving my voice
> transmissions (it is actually intermittent, occasionally they will
> "hear" me at good volume)
>
> Factors to consider;
> I am receiving full volume sidetone in my headset (I assume that means
> the microphone is OK)
> Happens whether I'm using the pilot or passenger jacks
> Changing headsets has no effect
> Ever since the first time I used the radio, it has a very distictive
> "ping" when I press the push to talk switch. It is audible
> both
> in my headset, as well as being received by the planes I fly with. Even
> now, with the inability of others to hear my voice
> transmission, the
> "ping" is still very audible to them. (I assume that means the antennae is
> OK)
> When I've tested the unit on the ground using my handheld radio to
> listen to the transmission, I clearly hear the "ping", and
> actually
> can hear my voice transmission at a "very" low level.
>
> I would really like you guys to tell me to just throw away the
> radio and get
> a real one and all my troubles will be over , but I'd better make sure the
> radio is the culprit before I go to that extreme.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Tom Chapman
> RV-4 N153TK
> 1020 hours of fun
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
>
>Hi Bob,
>You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
>S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
Radio Shack
>Also, after thinking it over, I see a modest benefit to hanging the
>starter solenoid and ANL 40 current limiter on the engine side of the
>firewall (smaller firewall penetration, starter contactor away from my
>feet. Is this an acceptable environment for these two electrical devices?
These parts have lived long and useful lives on the
forward side of the firewall on over 100,000 airplanes.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seriel multiplexer/swithc |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Ian,
If I understand correctly, you want to switch 5 incoming serial leads to
your PocketPC - is that correct?
If so, the ultimate would be to write a PocketPC program that
communicated to a uController which in turn would switch the serial
lines and select the program that is associated with serial data.
It seems that most of the devices out there don't use the DTR and 'extra
lines' of the RS-232 interface. As such, you could use those lines to
signal to the uController what action you wanted performed.
It would be a lot of work and obviously the background would need to be
there or learned, but then you don't have another switch on the panel.
With that said, one obstacle is that the programs running on your
PocketPC will all assume the data on the serial port is for them which
could get complicated very quickly. If you can get a USB connection on
the PocketPC, Qualtech makes a USB to (2,4,6, or 8) Serial Port
Converter that might be useful and eliminate the need for a switch. They
also make PC Card versions but I'm not sure how many serial ports are
supported or whether they include drivers for the PocketPC.
Good Luck,
Don Honabach
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Scott [mailto:jabiru22(at)yahoo.com.au]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Seriel multiplexer/swithc
-->
HI all,
I am connecting the 2 GPS units to the Ipaq for mapping purposes, and I
also want to be able to switch to sat phone or CDMA phone to check
weather and file plans etc, is there a suitable switch that can switch
one serial signal to 5 or so sources, that is small and looks good?
Thanks
Ian
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note: http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It takes a
bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the beam, then
you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the angle, then you
figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need. Photometrics is
tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA and the physics doesn't
care.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones(at)charter.net
"Nothing is too wonderful to be true."
- James Clerk Maxwell, discoverer of electromagnetism
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."
- Mae West, discoverer of personal magnetism
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Option for alternator B-lead fuse |
>
> Bob,
>
>I would like to get your opinion on the use of a fuse holder similar to
>the following for alternator b-lead protection forward of the firewall:
>
>http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-08KCpdYV9zh/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&g=716&id=morephotos&pi=1&i=575CPPFH4&display=L#morephotos
>
>These are commonly used in car stereo installations and are designed to
>go under the hood, near the battery. My plan is to have it mounted to
>the engine mount using adel clamps near the starter contactor. 40 Amp
>fuses are available (for my 40 amp B&C alternator.) The one drawback I
>can see is that the attachment of the wires is done with a set screw
>rather than a clamped connection. My alternative is to use a Bussmann
>JJS/JJN type fuse as shown in your book.
Hardware for automotive guitar-driven
rock-crushers, as you have noted, do not feature
gas-tight connections so prized by those who
deliver solderless hardware to the aerospace
industry. The JJS/JJN series fuses can be purchased
through local electrical supply houses. You might
also consider miniature versions of the ANL series
fuses. If you have a high speed connection, download
this catalog and check out the MIDI series fuses
from Littlefuse:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Littlefuse.pdf
There's a MAXI version of the small plastic
fuses. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/maxifuse.pdf
This device would be suitable for small alternator
b-lead protection. I'd have no heartburn with using
a MAX40 fuse in the b-lead of a 40A machine. Automotive
parts stores carry in-line fuse holders for this
plastic super-fuse. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/MAX_InLine.pdf
The options offered above are much superior
to the device you cited.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wire "forking" question |
Dan,
On my RV-6, I installed some small terminal strips on the rear side of the
spar. I got it at RS. I ran the nav lights to it then used three jumpers for
the three smaller wires to the lights. I also used RMD landing lights in the
wing tips so this also goes to the terminal strip. I later added a wig/wag
flasher from Gall's on the lights which was easy to wire in since I had that
strip to work with.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 & One Design
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: wire "forking" question
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:41:58 -0700
>
>
>
>I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
>how to wire the 3 position lights.
>
>Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok,
>so
>2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
>
>My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
>the wire out 3 ways would be.
>
>I would lean toward this...
>
>14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
>strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
>
>Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some
>"fork"
>point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
>there out to the 3 lights?
>
>See what I'm getting at?
>
>It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
>wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
>I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
>wires, etc.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Loram <johnl(at)loram.org> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
Perhaps not quite as expensive or tricky as in the past.
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
regards, -john-
johnl(at)loram.org
www.loram.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones(at)charter.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Position lights.
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not
FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED
tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It
takes a bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the
beam, then you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the
angle, then you figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need.
Photometrics is tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA
and the physics doesn't care.
Eric M. Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
Eric,
Boy, it's been awhile since I've seen this much hand waving. How about a little
mathematical rigor. If you are going to question someone's work fine, but
do it well.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones(at)charter.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Position lights.
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note: http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It takes a
bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the beam, then
you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the angle, then you
figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need. Photometrics is
tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA and the physics doesn't
care.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones(at)charter.net
"Nothing is too wonderful to be true."
- James Clerk Maxwell, discoverer of electromagnetism
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."
- Mae West, discoverer of personal magnetism
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
> >Hi Bob,
> >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
> >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
>
> Radio Shack
I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
But Bob, a part #, a part #!
Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Please see the attached zip file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Isolator/Mixer |
>
>Hi All,
>
>Does anyone have an update on the status of the
>audio isolator that Bob was working on?
>
>(Inquiring minds and all that)
The hardware is all done and tested. I'm working
on the companion article that will describe how
it's assembled and set up.
The complete data package will be published shortly.
In the mean time, those with some knowledge and
skills to proceed on preliminary data can go now to
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
I have a few bare etched circuit boards at $20 each.
The assembled and tested prototype is available for
$100 first come first served. You can also download
the ECB artwork if you choose to order boards yourself
from Express PCB
http://www.expresspcb.com/
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
>
>
>Bob -
>
>I have the Aerosance FADEC wiring diagrams converted to a .dwg. I'll send
>it to you via separate email. Let me know if this address won't work:
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
use bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net
>This issue is critical to our electrical design. Right now, we have one
>feed off of each battery buss (Z-14) to a switch on the panel for each lead
>and then to the Aerosance FADEC. The Crossfeed will be only an on-off
>switch. Start will be a separate switch. Procedurally we would plan to use
>one battery (main) to start. This battery would initially be a 17AH RG, but
>could easily go to a larger one if experience warrants it. The other
>battery would be on for start and will pick up the FADEC demand during
>start. As I understand it, each of the two channels of the FADEC are
>connected to their own power source and run off of that source. In our
>case, it is the two batteries. If one source goes below about 10.5 v, as I
>recollect Jabe Luttrell's (Aerosance) words, the unit switches to the
>higher voltage source. This looks pretty standard design to me.
sounds like a plan . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
>
> > >Hi Bob,
> > >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
> > >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
> >
> > Radio Shack
>
>I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
>annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
>I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
>
>But Bob, a part #, a part #!
>
>Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
Gee, I thought the Radio Shack guys had all the answers . . .
they should be able to sell you a 1N400x diode. BTW, the
"X" implies ANY digit . . . there are a range of parts in
this class ALL of which are suited to the task.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Led Position Lights |
> Boy, it's been awhile since I've seen this much hand waving. How about a little
>mathematical rigor. If you are going to question someone's work fine, but
>do it well.
>John
and
>Perhaps not quite as expensive or tricky as in the past.
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
My comment....If something seems too good to be true....
The (simplified) mathematical rigor is posted on my website if you want to see
it:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm
Even if you want to buy the ones Bill offers, you need to read and understand the
argument.
Don't be in a rush for these. Many many people have built similar position lights,
and I am a big believer in these devices. And yes you CAN build LED position
lights even now, just check my website. But killacycle's LED position lights
are not quite there. I have asked Bill Dube' to send me some details and I
will figure out how close this is to the FAA requirements (I bet he's wrong by
a factor of 4X). I will post this on the aeroelectric website.
My comment that when buying LEDs you FIRST buy the ANGLE, then you buy the brightness....this
is the whole trick and it won't work the other way. Unless Bill
Dube' got the LEDs off the Roswell saucer, his setup will fall way short of what
is necessary. And I know he didn't because I GOT THE LEDS OFF THE ROSWELL
SAUCER, and that miracle cell-phone antenna stick-on thingy.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones(at)charter.net
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there
is."
-Yogi Berra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
>
>
>Might want to check the connections to the antenna.
>
>If you could rig up another temporary antenna, you might be able to note
>whether there is a difference.
>
>James
Good suggestion. From what he described, this seems
a likely source of problem. If a substitute antenna
is not available on the airplane, take a 20' or so
hunk of RG58 and carefully cut away 50" of outer jacket.
Pull center conductor through the braid at the end
of outer jacket like so:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Exposed center conductor and shield can be spread out
and taped to the end of a 2x4 about 6-8 feet long so that
end of center conductor is even with end of board. Coax
feedline comes off 25" from end of board and exposed shield
continues on for an additional 25"
Fabricate some means for holding 2x4 upright (bucket full
of sand/gravel works good). Put connector on free end of
coax to mate with transceiver.
Set antenna on ground as far as far from aircraft as
your scrap of coax will allow and attach connector
to your transceiver.
See if the symptoms go away or change in any way
you can detect.
Use handheld radio and/or someone setting in another
airplane to evaluate your transmitted signal.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Multimeter test adaptor |
Hi Bob,
I need help in understanding how to make up the test adaptor, page Z6.
Do you crimp or solder the "banana plugs" to one end of the 1573 plug and plug
the other end into the 1576 receptacle, allowing you to clamp a multimeter to
the "banana plugs".
Is there a picture somewhere of this?
Would radio shack know what to sell me if I ask for "banana plugs"?
It's probably there but I can't find in your book the purpose of the 5A C.B. in
the alt. field wire.
Also, does it need to be in plain view so you can see immediately if it trips or
can I put it out of the way but still accessable by touch in-flight?
And if I haven't strained your patience too far, the Radio Shack P/N for the 1N4005
diode. One responded with 276-1141 and another with 276-1105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location) |
Bob,
I saw the comment about being asked questions over and over and it struck me
that it's probably true, especially because I've seen various messages asking
questions to which I've wanted to know the answers, and which aren't answered
directly in the Aeroelectric Connection book.
Is there some way that we can feed back to you suggestions for things (often
absurdly simple) to include in the next edition?
Two examples that spring to mind are: this question below about contactor /
relay diodes; and the recent question about where to join multiple wires on
the same circuit (the actual question was about posn lights).
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Diode source and ANL location
>
> >
> > > >Hi Bob,
> > > >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of
an
> > > >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
> > >
> > > Radio Shack
> >
> >I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
> >annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
> >I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
> >
> >But Bob, a part #, a part #!
> >
> >Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
>
> Gee, I thought the Radio Shack guys had all the answers . . .
> they should be able to sell you a 1N400x diode. BTW, the
> "X" implies ANY digit . . . there are a range of parts in
> this class ALL of which are suited to the task.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LED position lights...Alternative? |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
> I'm certainly no expert, but I've been interested in alternative
> lighting for a long time. I wonder if the small "cold cathode"
> fluorescents that are proliferating in automotive applications would be
> suitable. They are certainly cheap, efficient, apparently vibration
> resistant, and available in multiple colors. They don't have the
> "angle" problem of LEDs, but there may be other issues I'm not aware
> of.
>
> see:
>
> http://www.elwirecheap.com/neonwircarki.html
>
>
> JFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
Bob and others who have recently given suggestions on converting .dwg files:
Either export as .wmf & use IRFANview freeware or print to Adobe (or free
trial version of FinePoint's "pdfFactory") which converts whatever you print
in Autocad or Intellicad to .pdf.
The programs are functioning, but NOT giving USEABLE results - details when
"zoom" in on the pdf or wmf conversions.
- In ALL cases (exporting to .wmf and viewing with irfanview, exporting
to .bmp and viewing with "paint", and printing direct from Intellicad to
pdfFactory and saving as .pdf), I get just the level of detail that is
showing in Intellicad when I click "print"
1) If entire schematic (drawing) is showing on screen - but unreadable
until I zoom in - then the wmf and pdf files, when "zoom", are not legible -
no detail.
2) If zoom in in Intellicad so details (wire gauge, pin numbers, etc)
are readable, then "select all" and "print", I only get in the wmf and pdf
files what was showing in the computer screen in Intellicad (a tiny part of
the schematic, not the whole enchilada) The detail is the same as what I
saw in Intellicad, while zoomed in.
At this point, unless someone can point out a basic error in my
"print"keystrokes in Intellicad/Autocad, then I only see one solution for
letting others view my .dwg files for peer review , for sharing ideas, and
for documenting my work on a website:
- That solution is to provide a note to click a nearby link to a
download free CAD viewer that will allow viewing .dwg files, with full zoom
and pan cabability.
I downloaded Bob's CD ( AEC8_0.zip ) and scanned down to the bottom where it
listed the 3 CAD programs (Autocad Lite, Intellicad, and Turbocad 2d Lt.
- Turbocad was the only one of the 3 that was contained in a single
file to download and install, so that would appear to be the preferred
"simplest" way of giving someone access to a free .dwg viewer.
So, if that is to be "our" only method of sharing .dwg files (with entire
schematic/drawing available for pan and zoom) that will show details and not
be "blurred"/unreadable at high magnification, then I need to study how to
create the link to "which" site for downloading Turbocad;
- If I can upload the zipped Turbocad file to my website (assuming it
won't exceed my allowance of disk space on my ISP's server), then it is easy
to do the links.
- If, as I suspect, this will exceed my quota of space, then I'd need a
link to some website for the download.
I just called my ISP - said "No problem, not enforcing the 5mb quota - go
ahead and put it (Turbocad zip file) up."
Unless someone can help me with a simpler way, that is what I will pursue.
- Bob, the version of TC Lite is Feb 2002 - is there likely to be a
later version? Any tips on this?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Builder documentation on the Web-summary
>
> >
> >
> >I received 13 excellent, helpful replies to my request for "how to create
> >drawings, sketches, & tables viewable on a web site". Thank you all.
> >
> >Here's a summary of what I learned:
> >
> >1. Drawings made by CAD programs (Autocad, Intellicad-an Autocad "full
> >features clone" (I have Airplane PDQ which has full Intellicad embedded):
> > a. File, Export to File, in the Save As box navigate to the desired
> > folder, use or change the file name, then go to File Type & scroll down
> > to & select .bmp; that all disappears and you are back in Intellicad
with
> > the "Selection Menu" box popped up - click "select all" then press
> > "Enter" (a non-intuitive response to a command line question) and in a
> > short moment the conversion is completed.
> > b. Then use Paint (MSPAINT) to open the file & immediately Save As a
> > .jpg Everyone with Windows has Microsoft's "Paint" for this
.bmp
> > to .jpg conversion. And everyone with Windows has Kodak's "Imaging"
> > program that views .jpgs, plus .jpg files/images are imbedded directly
> > into aweb page and thus viewable by a browser.
> > (interesting side note: My "Imaging" pgm won't let me save
anything
> > as .jpg . . . weird.)
> >
> >2. Non-cad drawings and sketches (fuel system, simple electrical
> >schematics or wire diagrams, etc)
> > a. Hand draw and color sketches and simply scan them as .jpg files
> > to insert into web page; or,
> > b. Use "Paint" (MSPAINT.EXE in Programs, Accessories) for
Sketches -
> > c. Excel has a "drawing" mode with lots of features.
> > - Another lister several months ago shared how he used Excel to
> > "draw" a very neat electrical schematic.
> > - My impression is that one would be able to "draw" a neater,
> > more detailed drawing than using PAINT - maybe easier, too, since Exel
> > has more drawing features than the rudimentary lines, rectangle, and
> > "free hand with a mouse" of PAINT.
>
> Better yet. Get Adobe Acrobat. It's for sale all over ebay and other
> places on the 'net. Acrobat fools your computer into thinking that
> it is a printer . . . you can "print" to Acrobat and instead of
getting
> paper out of a printer, you get .pdf file on your hard drive.
>
>
>
> >Other tips (summary listing):
> >1. Eric M. Jones: If you have an interest in CAD, please see
> >http://www.tenlinks.com/CAD/products/free/cad.htm. This is a repository
of
> >all things in free cad, and add-ons too
> >
> >2. Chris Good: Powerpoint has an "export to html" function that creates
> >the pages on the web site.
> >
> >3. Ernest Christley: Try "The Gimp". There is a version for Windo[ws]
> > It's a Photoshop wannabe, that will cost you exactly $0. You'll
be
> >able to work on the JPG files and do lots of other neat things if you'll
> >just spend a few hours with the included documentation. As a bonus, the
> >JPG files it produces tend to be about 1/4th the size of what my digital
> >camera program produces.
> >
> >4. Dale Smith: "jpeg optimizer" will trim your photos' file size
> >literally to any size you like, all the while showing you in a window
what
> >the downsized picture file looks like! ... it's shareware located for
> >download on CNet at: http://download.com.com/3000-2192-9623164.html
> > - File sizes a third of the original show with almost negligible
> > differences. If it does degrade, just kick it up a few percent. You
> > don't need to re-size most pics down to enjoy the benefits, but cropping
> > out the unneeded always helps keep the filesize in check.
> >
> >5. Rob Housman: Use "FinePrint" to save the file in Adobe Acrobat's pdf
> >format. Go to www.fineprint.com and download the free version of that
> >program. [ This sounds like one to get familiar with. ]
> >
> >6. Dan Checkoway: There are plenty of forums and self-teach web sites
> >out there for web development. See http://www.w3schools.com, for
> >example. [ I went to this and will use it as my primary learning tool
for
> >web stuff.]
> >
> >7. Joshua Siler: Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, with a tablet input
> >device, are the
> >best ways to do this [sketches]. However they are quite expensive.
> > - Try Paint Shop Pro 8.0 - you can find it at
http://www.download.com
> > . It will let you create an
> >image, and then you can save it as a file format that windows can read.
>
> Our CD Rom has three Autocad compatible drafting programs on
> it. You can download from the website at
> http://216.55.140.222/CD/AEC8_0.zip
> or purchase at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.htm
>
> Acrobat reader is free to everybody. Your published works will be
easily
> read and printed. I often publish .jpg photos to .pdf files just to
insure
> the manner in which they are displayed and printed. The REALLY neat
thing
> about going the Adobe route is that Acrobat allows you to edit
multiple
> .pdf files together. For example,
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/Audio_Prelim.pdf
> contains pages of data that were generated on three different
applications:
> Autocad.dwg, camera.jpg, and ECB layout.jpg. I could easily have
included
> pages of word processor text and maybe even pages from a .pdf file
> generated
> by another source. Very, VERY powerful and easy on your readers.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
David -
.DWG files are rooted deeply in AutoCAD. Furthermore, they vary by the
versions of AutoCAD that AutoDesk has published thru the years. Most of the
CAD programs that put out ".dwg" files put out either marginal files, in
and of themselves, or are predicated on a specific version of AutoCAD - or
a combination of both. Same is true, but to a lesser extent of Adobe
Acrobat files. Both companies endeavour to allow you to publish for a
specific version of their program and will read files published in their
previous versions. Bottom line: translating in other programs is at best a
crap-shoot and it may or may not work at any time. Also, files like .bmp
and .jpg are bitmapped (raster) files and those from Illustrator, CorelDraw
and AutoCAD are vector based files (mathematically calculated). CAD
programs use some variety of a vector-based format. Using bitmapped files
in a vector based program is not the easiest of things to do - unless you
are willing to spend a lot of time tracing the bitmaps to get them into
vector format. Or getting them to print well as part of a CAD plot is
problematic.
Finally, if one wishes to send a "cad" drawing to someone else, I would
recommend that they save it as a .DXF file. That format has the best chance
of being read in other CAD programs, including AutoCAD (all verions),
because it is based on a commonly accepted standard in the industry. I can
pull in a .pdf file to CorelDraw and export as a .dxf file. AutoCAD 2000 LT
can pull this in and read just about everything. However, a lot of the
nuances and "things" that were in the original CAD file may not have made
it into the .pdf file that I started with, or get included in the .dxf
file. All of this works fairly well, but if I upgrade to the next version
of CorelDraw, it may lock up the machine: another crap-shoot. Thus, when
Bob publishes a .pdf file, which is great for most applications, I ask him
for a .dwg file because I want to incorporate it into an existing file or
modify it a bit for our application in the airplane.
.WMF has always been problematical to work with because it is a Microsoft
vector-based invention . Same is true for .BMP as Microsoft's entry to the
bit-mapped race.
Hope this helps a bit.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Audio Isolation Amp/Mixer Project |
>
>Hi All,
>
>Does anyone have an update on the status of the
>audio isolator that Bob was working on?
>
>(Inquiring minds and all that)
The hardware is all done and tested. I'm working
on the companion article that will describe how
it's assembled and set up.
The complete data package will be published shortly.
In the mean time, those with some knowledge and
skills to proceed on preliminary data can go now to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
I have a few bare etched circuit boards at $20 each.
The assembled and tested prototype is available for
$100 first come first served. You can also download
the ECB artwork if you choose to order boards yourself
from Express PCB. Artwork processing and order software
is available free from:
http://www.expresspcb.com/
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Hey Gang,
I finally got my new AMP ProCrimper II today and did some test crimps.
Wow - what a crimper (never thought I'd say that - at least not in
public).
The appearance of the crimp is beautiful (again, never thought I'd say
that as well). The crimp is also strong enough that I literally can't
pull the wire out. If I try, the connector/terminal deforms and then I
stop. When using my Ideal Ratchet Crimper or the normal hand held
crimps, I was able to get a decent crimp but with enough force (required
a very hefty tug) I could eventually pull the wire out. Maybe the other
crimpers required different dies or better technique...
In short, while the AMP Crimper may be overkill, I'm extremely happy
that I got it and ultimately the piece of mind was well worth the ~$120
for the crimper kit (came with crimper, die, and an assorted of PIDG
connectors). With that said, I'll now be trying to crimp everything -
it's wonderful what a good tool will do for a major change in attitude.
Before I was trying to avoid crimping connections, now I can't imagine
not crimping a connection.
Regards,
Don Honabach
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
David & others,
I recently had some CAD files in DWG format sent over from another lister,
and discovered that CorelDraw could import them. Okay, it doesn't do the
best job in the world, but it's all there and looks exactly as intended.
Personally, I can't make head nor tail of most CAD programs, so it was a
blessing to discover that Corel could understand the format.
Hope this helps.
Nev
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PIDG Crimps... |
>
>Hey Gang,
>
>I finally got my new AMP ProCrimper II today and did some test crimps.
>Wow - what a crimper (never thought I'd say that - at least not in
>public).
>
>The appearance of the crimp is beautiful (again, never thought I'd say
>that as well). The crimp is also strong enough that I literally can't
>pull the wire out. If I try, the connector/terminal deforms and then I
>stop. When using my Ideal Ratchet Crimper or the normal hand held
>crimps, I was able to get a decent crimp but with enough force (required
>a very hefty tug) I could eventually pull the wire out. Maybe the other
>crimpers required different dies or better technique...
If one considers the goal of achieving "gas tight" joints
between metal strands of wire and metal wire grip barrel
of terminal, then the terminal and wire become one piece
of metal. It stands to reason that the wire or terminal
will break before you pull the strands from the terminal.
If a pull test does release the strands from the wire
grip, then there is a mis-match between tool, terminal
and/or wire . . . or the tool is worn out (which is rare).
>In short, while the AMP Crimper may be overkill, I'm extremely happy
>that I got it and ultimately the piece of mind was well worth the ~$120
>for the crimper kit (came with crimper, die, and an assorted of PIDG
>connectors). With that said, I'll now be trying to crimp everything -
>it's wonderful what a good tool will do for a major change in attitude.
>Before I was trying to avoid crimping connections, now I can't imagine
>not crimping a connection.
Your experience reenforces the idea that folk
who promote a superiority of solder or crimp+solder
over crimping alone simply don't understand how the two
systems work and what their respective limits and
capabilities are.
Thanks for sharing your observations and conclusions.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net> |
| Subject: | Electric supercharger |
The website <http://www.acturbo.com/index2.html> peddles an electric
"turbo". Since it only promises 2 psi boost, it looks like snake oil to me.
However, it did prompt me to wonder about electronic control of manifold
pressure. Anyone working on that one?
Bob Williams
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> The website <http://www.acturbo.com/index2.html> peddles an electric
> "turbo". Since it only promises 2 psi boost, it looks like snake oil to me.
> However, it did prompt me to wonder about electronic control of manifold
> pressure. Anyone working on that one?
Sounded good but..... Unsure what figures 'gain' based on and 19 AMPS
current drawn. That probably uses up any useful gain in HP.
Maybe I'm wrong.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electric supercharger
>
> > The website <http://www.acturbo.com/index2.html> peddles an electric
> > "turbo". Since it only promises 2 psi boost, it looks like snake oil to
me.
> > However, it did prompt me to wonder about electronic control of manifold
> > pressure. Anyone working on that one?
>
> Sounded good but..... Unsure what figures 'gain' based on and 19 AMPS
> current drawn. That probably uses up any useful gain in HP.
>
> Maybe I'm wrong.
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
> Gerry Holland
> Europa 384
I would recommend not spending your money on this item. While it just might
be possible to get 2 psi pumping from this motor into a closed duct (or
box), however, there is no way it would maintain 2 psi in the manifold of an
engine sucking 200 -300 + cubic feet per minute of air. In fact, the
airflow of the engine sucked throught the fan would probably cause it to
spin faster, but actually impeding air flow..
It would consume approx 266 watts of electrical power (14 Volts x 19 amps).
This equates to approx 0.357 HP. IF it could provide the 2 psi claimed and
you had a 160 HP engine, then the 2 psi would equate to 2+14.7/14.7 *160 180 HP
or a 20 HP boost (actually it would be somewhat less due to the less
denser air caused by the 2 psi compression process). So here we have a
device consuming 0.357 HP and resulting in a 15-20HP gain, not bad in my
book, in fact too good to be true.
Barnum Baily, etc.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW 200 Rotary Hours
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
We use a viewer available on the Autodesk site called Voloview. The
full program costs money ($49 until Jul 31) but there is a version
called Voloview Express that allows viewing and printing DWG files and
is free. We use it at our business so people without AutoCAD on their
systems can view and print drawings. It seems to work just fine for that.
I would list the correct URL, but it uses cookies and would probably not
work. So... Go to www.autodesk.com , choose United States and then
click on "products" in the upper left hand box. At the bottom of the
subsequent window Voloview and Voloview Express is listed. Click on
whichever one you are interested in and proceed. The download is 24MB
so hopefully you have a broadband connection :-) . The latest version
will run on Windows 98Se or better so if you are still running Windows
95 it won't work. I do have a previous version that works with the
latest AutoCAD (but not the new version 2004) and Windows 95 that I
could provide (somehow).
Dick Tasker
John Schroeder wrote:
>
>Terry -
>
>Thanks for the comments. You're right about the origin of .dxf files being
>AutoDesk. It is still the accepted standard and about the only way one can
>have a reasonable chance of getting various programs to read vector
>drawings.
>
>John
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger |
Well, according to their literature..
1.7 psi @796cfm to 2 psi @800CFM (1600 CFM for twin turbo)
a.. 3.6 Lbs per unit
a.. 2000+ hr running time
a.. Equipped with 270o thermo-switch
a.. 12VDC or 24VDC (for hybrid motors)
a.. 19 Amp pull
a.. 22 blade blower fan, all aluminum (45o pitch)
a.. Centrifugal designed units
a.. Casing made of 650 degree polypropylene plastic
> > Europa 384
>
> I would recommend not spending your money on this item. While it just
might
> be possible to get 2 psi pumping from this motor into a closed duct (or
> box), however, there is no way it would maintain 2 psi in the manifold of
an
> engine sucking 200 -300 + cubic feet per minute of air. In fact, the
> airflow of the engine sucked throught the fan would probably cause it to
> spin faster, but actually impeding air flow..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger |
If it really provides 2 psi (IF), that is an increase of 13% over over
sea level atmospheric pressure. Which (in a perfect world) would
provide a 13% increase in HP output. Even assuming that their lower
predictions (+10 HP) is correct then the modest 19 A @ 12V (228W or .3
HP) only uses a small percentage of that. Of course, the conversion
from motor HP to blower HP is not 100% efficient, but even assuming 30%
efficiency, that still is only 1 HP lost to power the blower for a net 9 HP.
I am certainly not endorsing this product, but at least it looks like it
could provide more output than it takes (at a cost of more gas of course
:-) ).
YMMV...
Dick Tasker
Gerry Holland wrote:
>
>
>
>>The website <http://www.acturbo.com/index2.html> peddles an electric
>>"turbo". Since it only promises 2 psi boost, it looks like snake oil to me.
>>However, it did prompt me to wonder about electronic control of manifold
>>pressure. Anyone working on that one?
>>
>>
>
>Sounded good but..... Unsure what figures 'gain' based on and 19 AMPS
>current drawn. That probably uses up any useful gain in HP.
>
>Maybe I'm wrong.
>
>Regards
>
>Gerry
>
>Gerry Holland
>Europa 384
>G-FIZY
>+44 7808 402404
>gnholland(at)onetel.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [Fwd: [c-a] Malfunction electronic equipment around |
Bakerfield]
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
This showed up on the canard aviators web site, and seemed
too entertaining to not re-post here. Plus its relevant. I
have a few ideas, but was curious to see what the collective
wisdom gathered here might have to say.
Frank, I hope you don't mind me passing this around....
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [c-a] Malfunction electronic equipment around Bakerfield
From: Frank Hoffmann <entenvater(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, July 8, 2003 11:18 am
Hello Gang,
This might sound a little bit strange, but after it
has happened six times in row I feel it is justified
to bring it to your attention.
Last year we installed in our LongEZ an EGT and CHT
from Aerospacelogic in Canada. For those who are not
familiar with
these units, they are 4 channel digital instruments
displaying the hottest cylinder or step from one to
four. They work
very nice and besides having some trouble with the
installation we are very happy with them. When I
originally installed them
they worked fine with the alternator turn off, but
with the alternator charging the gauges showed extreme
low temperature or
COLD. I tried to fix the problem with additional
grounding. (close but no cigar).The Aerospacelogic
customer was very helpful
and ultimately they send me two replacement units with
a different grounding system. After solving this
initial problem EGT/CHT
we have flown 100 hours and the instruments are
working fine and wouldn't have anything to complain,
but since the installation
of the gauges they failed every single time in
approx.15NM radius around Bakerfield(BFL) , showing
the same symptoms as described
above. The Burtday trip really took the cake, our
standard EGT/CHT malfunction came with soundtrack.
Mysteriously we heart
a Mexican radiostation in our headsets. A glue to the
EGT/CHT malfunction might be the microwave tower
depicted on the chart
in this area. I am wondering has anybody encountered
similar problems in this area or similar problem with
the Aerospacelogic instruments.
Thank you for all your help.
Frank Hoffmann
LongEZ 526J
__________________________________
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http://www.challengerone.com/t/l.asp?cid=2805&lp=calcium2.asp
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: [c-a] Malfunction electronic |
equipment around Bakerfield]
>
>Hello Gang,
>
>This might sound a little bit strange, but after it
>has happened six times in row I feel it is justified
>to bring it to your attention.
>Last year we installed in our LongEZ an EGT and CHT
>from Aerospacelogic in Canada. For those who are not
>familiar with
>these units, they are 4 channel digital instruments
>displaying the hottest cylinder or step from one to
>four. They work
>very nice and besides having some trouble with the
>installation we are very happy with them. When I
>originally installed them
>they worked fine with the alternator turn off, but
>with the alternator charging the gauges showed extreme
>low temperature or
>COLD. I tried to fix the problem with additional
>grounding. (close but no cigar).The Aerospacelogic
>customer was very helpful
>and ultimately they send me two replacement units with
>a different grounding system.
Common problem with thermocouple instruments that
do not isolate the thermocouple electrically from
the engine . . . "additional" grounding wouldn't
have helped but I'll be that moving the instrument's
power ground from the ground bus up front to a crankcase
ground would have solved the problem. See first
column of page 5-7 in the 'Connection. This is
a very common problem with canard pushers.
> After solving this
>initial problem EGT/CHT
>we have flown 100 hours and the instruments are
>working fine and wouldn't have anything to complain,
>but since the installation
>of the gauges they failed every single time in
>approx.15NM radius around Bakerfield(BFL) , showing
>the same symptoms as described
>above. The Burtday trip really took the cake, our
>standard EGT/CHT malfunction came with soundtrack.
>Mysteriously we heart
>a Mexican radiostation in our headsets. A glue to the
>EGT/CHT malfunction might be the microwave tower
>depicted on the chart
>in this area. I am wondering has anybody encountered
>similar problems in this area or similar problem with
>the Aerospacelogic instruments.
>Thank you for all your help.
Plastic airplanes are "wide open" when
it comes to ingress of external RF sources. FM
and TV stations are particularly vicious because
of there VHF and higher frequencies, high power
transmitters and antennas that focus transmitted
energy into a flat disk radiating toward the horizon.
Since you're aware of this problem, I'd let
it ride. It's a relatively rare, short duration
event that affects readings that do not help
you fly the airplane. The time and effort
to eliminate the problem could be extensive and
will only drive up parts count (drive down
reliability and could affect accuracy).
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Ferg-
The crimper I purchased is good for AMP PIDG style connectors/terminals
that fit into the color coding scheme of Red, Blue, and Yellow. Off the
top of my head I believe this covers the 12 to 24 Gauge wire sizes (give
or take a couple gauges). These are the most common style of
connector/terminal used when wiring and are needed if you plan on using
BK's fuse panel design and/or the switches available at Aero-Electric. I
don't have it handy, but if you'd like the part # at Mouser/DigiKey
and/or a link to Tyco/AMP's website just let me know.
With that said, it will not work for crimping larger
connectors/terminals - like 4 guage battery leads and so on.
Because of various other projects and so on, I think it's well worth the
investment to buy one. That way when your dealing with common wiring
connections, you'll have the right tool for the job. I would also
recommend buying an assortment of the AMP PIDG connectors/terminals.
Nothing like have a box full of connectors to make the job go easy.
As a side note, I've also fallen in love with the mil spec pins for DB
style connectors. I never knew making these could be so darn easy.
That's another crimp tool that I'm happy I purchased and learned about
on the Aero-Electric site and directly with BK. Except for the cost of
the pins which for small projects is manageable, I can't see any reason
to pull out the smelly old solder iron for most projects.
Good Luck,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Fergus Kyle [mailto:VE3LVO(at)rac.ca]
Subject: Crimpery
Don,
You sum up your last message,
"Before I was trying to avoid crimping connections, now I can't imagine
not crimping a connection." ...... but you don't say what size/type
connection it is. Is this $120 crimper good for all usual terminals,
plus 9/15/25 AMP-style subminiature connectors?
Just curious before buying/renting/borrowing for
connections. Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger |
Unfortunately claims can be made about anything (for a while) regarding
performance, but 800 CFM! that is more airmass through-put than a 350 CID
V8 can suck at 6000 rpm.
That means that little fan must flow (at 800 cfm) 1.15 pounds of air per
second, 70 pounds of air per minute or 4, 144 lbs in one hour. Furthermore,
if the exit airduct is 3" in diameter = 7 sq inches, this unit must
accelerate that airmass from sitting still to approx 300 ft/sec in what
appears to be approx 6" distance. Now, if they have a little 1/3 HP motor
that can do that, then I want to buy stock in the company producing these
units. .
Anyone is certainly free to spend their $$ for such items, but you will be
disappointed. These units have been advertised on e bay running from $49 to
$249, so pick the cheaper one if you are really interested in one. It would
be nice as I am currently looking at putting turbocharger on my engine and
will eagerly jump on such a device if it would give me even 1.7 psi at 800
cfm, it would be well worth the money. But, unless somebody has repealed
certain phyiscal laws, it sadly - ain't gonna happen
Ed Anderson
>
> Well, according to their literature..
> 1.7 psi @796cfm to 2 psi @800CFM (1600 CFM for twin turbo)
> a.. 3.6 Lbs per unit
> a.. 2000+ hr running time
> a.. Equipped with 270o thermo-switch
> a.. 12VDC or 24VDC (for hybrid motors)
> a.. 19 Amp pull
> a.. 22 blade blower fan, all aluminum (45o pitch)
> a.. Centrifugal designed units
> a.. Casing made of 650 degree polypropylene plastic
> > > Europa 384
> >
> > I would recommend not spending your money on this item. While it just
> might
> > be possible to get 2 psi pumping from this motor into a closed duct (or
> > box), however, there is no way it would maintain 2 psi in the manifold
of
> an
> > engine sucking 200 -300 + cubic feet per minute of air. In fact, the
> > airflow of the engine sucked throught the fan would probably cause it to
> > spin faster, but actually impeding air flow..
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Crimpery |
Ferg,
The Pro Crimper II tool can crimp D-sub type pins, Mate-n-lok, BNC, PIDG and
a whole bunch of others. The dies for the different pins have to be bought
separately though.
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Crimpery
>
> Ferg-
>
> The crimper I purchased is good for AMP PIDG style connectors/terminals
> that fit into the color coding scheme of Red, Blue, and Yellow. Off the
> top of my head I believe this covers the 12 to 24 Gauge wire sizes (give
> or take a couple gauges). These are the most common style of
> connector/terminal used when wiring and are needed if you plan on using
> BK's fuse panel design and/or the switches available at Aero-Electric. I
> don't have it handy, but if you'd like the part # at Mouser/DigiKey
> and/or a link to Tyco/AMP's website just let me know.
>
> With that said, it will not work for crimping larger
> connectors/terminals - like 4 guage battery leads and so on.
>
> Because of various other projects and so on, I think it's well worth the
> investment to buy one. That way when your dealing with common wiring
> connections, you'll have the right tool for the job. I would also
> recommend buying an assortment of the AMP PIDG connectors/terminals.
> Nothing like have a box full of connectors to make the job go easy.
>
> As a side note, I've also fallen in love with the mil spec pins for DB
> style connectors. I never knew making these could be so darn easy.
> That's another crimp tool that I'm happy I purchased and learned about
> on the Aero-Electric site and directly with BK. Except for the cost of
> the pins which for small projects is manageable, I can't see any reason
> to pull out the smelly old solder iron for most projects.
>
> Good Luck,
> Don
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fergus Kyle [mailto:VE3LVO(at)rac.ca]
> To: Don Honabach
> Subject: Crimpery
>
>
> Don,
> You sum up your last message,
> "Before I was trying to avoid crimping connections, now I can't imagine
> not crimping a connection." ...... but you don't say what size/type
> connection it is. Is this $120 crimper good for all usual terminals,
> plus 9/15/25 AMP-style subminiature connectors?
> Just curious before buying/renting/borrowing for
> connections. Cheers, Ferg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | B-Crimp terminals... |
| From: | "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler(at)boeing.com> |
Bob,
I'm trying to source the B-crimp style terminals used in connectors for B&C (and
similar) alternator field connections. I've tried everywhere from Radio Shack
to Digikey.. I'm probably searching using the wrong name.. Can you advise a
name, P/N and/or source?
Rgds
Wayne Blackler
IO-360 Long EZ
Single Bat/Dual Alt..
Seattle, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm trying to source the B-crimp style terminals used in connectors for
>B&C (and similar) alternator field connections. I've tried everywhere from
>Radio Shack to Digikey.. I'm probably searching using the wrong name.. Can
>you advise a name, P/N and/or source?
>
>Rgds
>
>Wayne Blackler
"b-crimp" . . . the term I know is applied to the manner in
which this tool:
http://www.bandc.biz/BCT1info.html
folds the wings of a sheet metal pin down on the wire
as described in this article on Mate-n-Lock connectors:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Note the shape of the female side of the die in first
photo of the article. The "butt-cheeks" shape of the
die produces the "b" shaped crimp around the wire strands.
Terminals that mate with the B&C alternator field connections
are 1/4" Fast-On tab terminals described at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
and sold down near the bottom of the page at:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?12X358218
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm trying to source the B-crimp style terminals used in connectors for
>B&C (and similar) alternator field connections. I've tried everywhere from
>Radio Shack to Digikey.. I'm probably searching using the wrong name.. Can
>you advise a name, P/N and/or source?
>
>Rgds
>
>Wayne Blackler
"b-crimp" . . . the term I know is applied to the manner in
which this tool:
http://www.bandc.biz/BCT1info.html
folds the wings of a sheet metal pin down on the wire
as described in this article on Mate-n-Lock connectors:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Note the shape of the female side of the die in first
photo of the article. The "butt-cheeks" shape of the
die produces the "b" shaped crimp around the wire strands.
Terminals that mate with the B&C alternator field connections
are 1/4" Fast-On tab terminals described at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
and sold down near the bottom of the page at:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?12X358218
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
I'm clearly confused by your reference to the second bus in Z14 as the
"fantasy" bus. I am using that bus for critical items such as my backup
electric gyro and essential items that the smaller of the two
alternators can safely run. Otherwise most of my critical components,
including the FADEC are dual-homed so they will work off either bus
without having to throw the cross-feed.
Are you implying that the 2nd bus is unnecessary in an all-electric
aircraft? If so, how can I feed one primary bus with two alternators
etc. and an automatic cutover?
On the FADEC issue, there is no question they are erring on the side of
caution (and their STC) as you are well aware producing SPAM cans for
the general public. I suspect they have no choice.
I as most builders on the other hand am striving for a much better
electrical system design than most production aircraft ... one that
brings the aircraft into the 20th century. Just like the FADEC finally
brings engine technology into the same. I'm stuck in the middle trying
to strike a balance between the two ... thus my questions to experts
such as yourself.
Regards,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
I also searched everywhere for these. I finally gave up and called B &
C and they agreed to send me a couple extras in the mail. I suggested
to them that a couple spares included with the alternator might be a
good idea. They did say that these are not even on their website, but
they do stock them. Give 'em a call.
Jeff Point
RV-6 FWF/ wiring
Milwaukee WI
I-Blackler, Wayne R wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm trying to source the B-crimp style terminals used in connectors for B&C (and
similar) alternator field connections. I've tried everywhere from Radio Shack
to Digikey.. I'm probably searching using the wrong name.. Can you advise a
name, P/N and/or source?
>
>Rgds
>
>Wayne Blackler
>IO-360 Long EZ
>Single Bat/Dual Alt..
>Seattle, WA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric supercharger Specsmanship |
Really good analyses from several people!
The electric turbocharger is ultimately a good idea, but the specs are obviously
a sales gimmick.
It is true that 1/3 HP can move 800 cfm (or more); it can also generate 2 pounds
boost (or two zillion pounds boost), but not at the same time. Still it's not
entirely a scam--little by little electric stuff has been taking the place of
mechanical engine driven stuff and a lot of it looked pretty strange when introduced.
Remember that the engine has an electrical power generator ANYWAY. Then the question
is whether doing the job electrically is lower cost, size and weight, advantageousness
or convenience than doing the job some other way. If everything
were perfect, then grabbing just one spare HP from the alternator would give
you 14.5V at 50 Amps.
Thought-provoking factoid: The 1940-41 Italian Campini-Caproni CC-2 jet aircraft
used a separate reciprocating internal combustion engine to power the jet's
turbo compressor. I speculate that It was done that way because the turbo compressor
was available essentially off the shelf and thus the hot parts were easy
and cheap to make. The thing had an afterburner too. Hmmmmm.................!
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones(at)charter.net
"When they say it's not about money, it's about money.
When they say it's not about sex, it's about sex."
--Dale Bumpers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a schematic for a power supply for my ANR headsets that I can hardwire
into the panel. Call me cheap, but I think it can be done for a lot less
than the $80 the manufacturer wants.
Here's what they have to say about their power supply:
Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power supply. Our
panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC converter for isolation,
and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
It's output is 9v. I don't know what the current draw would be.
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber(at)earthlink.net> |
Find a datasheet on the web for an LM317 and it will show a recommended
circuit for building a 9V power supply. You can buy LM317's at Radio
Shack, but beware of the pinout given on the back of the package. It
has pins 1 and 3 reversed. Use the pinout given by the datasheet. I
think DigiKey will give you a link to the datasheet. This may not have
the same isolation that your manufacturer's supply is giving. Does
anyone have any comments about how necessary that is?
Dave in Wichita
>
>
> I'm looking for a schematic for a power supply for my ANR headsets
that I
> can hardwire into the panel. Call me cheap, but I think it can be
done
> for a lot less than the $80 the manufacturer wants.
>
> Here's what they have to say about their power supply:
>
> Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC
> converter for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
>
> It's output is 9v. I don't know what the current draw would be.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches for
instruments than Greenlee?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
>Files in the .dxf format generally seem to import and export better than
>most. They usually work with DeltaCAD. That program claims to be the
>easiest CAD program to learn, and I believe them-even if the company is
>called "Midnight Software."
>
>Adobe .pdf files often seem to have such poor resolution that the fine print
>is not readable.
>
>Any change future files could be posted in .dxf as well as other formats?
readability issues with .pdf are addressed with later versions
of AutoCAD . . . One can assign line weights within the print
driver definition for any printer including Acrobat Distiller.
This feature is not as effectively controlled with simpler
.pdf generators.
Publishing in .dxf files creates large files. These
are indeed a semi universal format for vector
based drawing files but they're pure ASCII text files that
describe EVERY feature of a drawing. A .dwg file published
in .dxf grows by 2 to 3 times in size. Further, it's still
not an absolute exchange . . . polylines can often loose
thickness data so that things like arrowheads disappear.
I will continue to use Acrobat Distiller with attention
to printability. I test all of my files now. If anyone has
a problem with reading material printed from a .pdf
off my server, let me know what file it is. It may be
an old one that needs some attention to lineweight control.
For those who would like to view and print my published
.dwg files, I've become a registered distributor for
Voloview. You can download this free viewer of AutoCAD
drawings at
http://216.55.140.222/Voloview/vve201setup.exe
It's about 25 Mbytes and takes 2 minutes to download
on a high speed connection.
I've been trying to save .dwg files for publishing
in the oldest AutoCAD format available on my system,
DOS Version R12 I believe. This fomrmat is readable,
editable, and printable by a host of applications including
three different programs distributed on my CD and
downloadable for free at
http://216.55.140.222/CD/AEC8_0.zip
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
Avery Tools. $15 rental for the panel punch.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
KahnSG(at)aol.com said:
>
> Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
> Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches for
> instruments than Greenlee?
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Bob -
I tried to import your Z-14FADEC.pdf file into my full up Acrobat v5.0
program. It is very fuzzy and poor quality compared to your other .pdf
files. I then saved it and tried to import it into CorelDraw to get it into
.dxf format. This has worked very well in the past. However, when I pull up
the .dxf file in AutoCAD 2000LT, the drawing is still fuzzy and full of
artifacts. All of the lines and most of the text are composed of
polylines!! This is very strange and definitely not the same quality
translation of some of your files I've been able to obtain in the past. It
might be a case of too much line weight control.:-))
Could you post the Z-14FADEC in a dwg format on your website? Much obliged.
John
PS: did you get the aerosance .dwg files
>
> I will continue to use Acrobat Distiller with attention
> to printability. I test all of my files now. If anyone has
> a problem with reading material printed from a .pdf
> off my server, let me know what file it is. It may be
> an old one that needs some attention to line weight control.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Steve,
I bought it at www.digikey.com
Part # A9821-ND
Includes the AMP Pro Crimper II, Red/Blue/Yellow PIDG Die, and an
assortment of PIDG connectors.
Cost was $112.50 plus shipping.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: KahnSG(at)aol.com [mailto:KahnSG(at)aol.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches for
instruments than Greenlee?
Steve
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Steve,
I'm not sure what Greenlee charges, but I know that you can also buy
them from Avery Tools and the like. If memory is working, they're around
$100 to $200 for a unit that will do both.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)BowenAero.com]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
-->
Avery Tools. $15 rental for the panel punch.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
KahnSG(at)aol.com said:
>
> Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
> Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches
> for instruments than Greenlee?
>
> Steve
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm trying to source the B-crimp style terminals used in connectors for
>B&C (and similar) alternator field connections. I've tried everywhere from
>Radio Shack to Digikey.. I'm probably searching using the wrong name.. Can
>you advise a name, P/N and/or source?
>
>Rgds
>
>Wayne Blackler
"b-crimp" . . . the term I know is applied to the manner in
which this tool:
http://www.bandc.biz/BCT1info.html
folds the wings of a sheet metal pin down on the wire
as described in this article on Mate-n-Lock connectors:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Note the shape of the female side of the die in first
photo of the article. The "butt-cheeks" shape of the
die produces the "b" shaped crimp around the wire strands.
Terminals that mate with the B&C alternator field connections
are 1/4" Fast-On tab terminals described at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
and sold down near the bottom of the page at:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?12X358218
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu> |
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
Chief Aircraft has the Pro Crimper II on their online catalog for $95, but
it's a little tricky to find. Use the search function for "terminals", then
click on the "wiring terminals" line of the search results and scroll down.
www.chiefaircraft.com
William Slaughter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
Bowen
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
Avery Tools. $15 rental for the panel punch.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
KahnSG(at)aol.com said:
>
> Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
> Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches for
> instruments than Greenlee?
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
>
>I also searched everywhere for these. I finally gave up and called B &
>C and they agreed to send me a couple extras in the mail. I suggested
>to them that a couple spares included with the alternator might be a
>good idea. They did say that these are not even on their website, but
>they do stock them. Give 'em a call.
Now I am lost . . . Oh! you're talking about the un-insulated
brass terminals that go inside a nylon housing that fits the
back of the alternator. Looks like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/41194.pdf
except fitted with a barb on the back side to retain it
in the connector housing.
I used to carry those and in fact, I think I gave my
inventory to B&C when all the parts business moved up
there. I don't recall now where I found them. They
were all strung together for automatic feed into
a crimping machine.
They were unplated brass as I recall. I wouldn't
have any heartburn with going directly onto the
tabs at the back of the alternator with a single
PIDG Faston installed on the field wire. The PIDG
terminals are plated and made from harder metal.
Electrically and mechanically a much better terminal.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Parks" <flightwork2(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Voltage Regulator |
Bob!
Will the Ford VR166 regulator work with B&C's L-60 alternator or do I need to purchase
B&C's LR3C-14 regulator? Can buy a whole lot of VR166 units for the pricey
LR3C-14 unit.
regards
Tom Parks RV-7 N620CF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAKEROCB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ELT Control Requirements |
7/10/2003
Hello Fellow Builders, I am interested in knowing the definitive word on
whether or not an ELT installed in a general aviation airplane (type certificated
or amateur built) must be able to be controlled by the pilot while in flight.
By controlled I mean able to turn OFF or ON, or from an UNARMED state to an
ARMED state. Further, must the pilot be automatically informed (by lights or
other means) by the ELT when it is transmitting?
There seems to be a general presumption that there is a requirement for in
flight control capability and some ELT's being sold have remote cable extensions
that permit this control. Some also provide a warning light when transmitting.
But there is nothing in FAR Sec. 91.207 that states those requirements. There
is nothing in TSO-C91a that states those requirements, but this TSO like so
many others is a very superficial document and the meat of the TSO's
requirements are found in the references to the TSO.
TSO-91a references Radio Technical Commission for Aeronautics (RTCA) Document
No. DO-183, "Minimum Operational Performance Standards for Emergency Locator
Transmitters; Automatic Fixed - ELT (AF), Automatic Portable - ELT (AP),
Automatic Deployable - ELT (AD), Survival - ELT (S); Operating on 121.5 and 243.0
Megahertz," Section 2.0, dated May 13, 1983, but I don't have access to this
document.
I am interested in people's experience and opinions on this subject, but
please don't make any definitive pronouncements unless you also provide specific
references.
I am currently flying a type certificated Diamond Aircraft DA20-C1 composite
airplane that has an EBC (Emergency Beacon Corp.) EBC 502 ELT installed.**
This ELT is mounted back in the baggage compartment behind the right seat
occupant's right shoulder. It is within view of the pilot, but beyond his reach
during flight. It has no remote control arrangement of any kind or any warning
light when activated. It does have a separate battery that is supposed to provide
power to an audible warning when the ELT is transmitting, but I don't know if
this audible warning can be heard over the ambient cockpit noise and through
headset sound protection.
If this arrangement is legal / acceptable I don't see why one would need to
install the remote control / warning light capability that comes with an ELT
like the ACK ELT-01 in their amateur built experimental aircraft unless there is
some requirement that I am not aware of.
Can anybody clear this up? Many thanks.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
PS: This ELT has one puny little thin vertical wire antenna sticking up out
of the top of it. No fancy coil in the antenna wire, no ground plane of any
kind. Makes one wonder about all the fuss about installing radiating strips of
metal foil in order to provide a ground plane as is commonly suggested for ELT
antenna installations.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Head" <banana(at)atlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Contacts for Narco 111 or 112 |
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone knows what contacts are used in the Narco 111 or
112 15 pin card edge connector? Narco gave me a Molex connector and contact
number but it no longer appears valid. I have compared the contact to the
ones used in my double sided Icom and Terra connectors but, due to the
single sided Narco design the contacts do not appear interchangeable.
Thanks in advance,
Dean Head
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Multimeter test adaptor |
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Fogerson
Subject: Multimeter test adaptor
Hi Bob,
I need help in understanding how to make up the test adaptor, page Z6.
Do you crimp or solder the "banana plugs" to one end of the 1573 plug and plug
the other end into the 1576 receptacle, allowing you to clamp a multimeter to
the "banana plugs".
Is there a picture somewhere of this?
Would radio shack know what to sell me if I ask for "banana plugs"?
It's probably there but I can't find in your book the purpose of the 5A C.B. in
the alt. field wire.
Also, does it need to be in plain view so you can see immediately if it trips or
can I put it out of the way but still accessable by touch in-flight?
And if I haven't strained your patience too far, the Radio Shack P/N for the 1N4005
diode. One responded with 276-1141 and another with 276-1105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
Sure, now you tell me. I will just go with the molex type connector
included with the alternator.
As long as we are on the topic of connectors...
In wiring up my shiny new LR3C-14 regulator, I noticed that it uses
spade type connectors. Since B & C doesn't sell these, I was forced to
go to Radio Shack and use the el-cheapo crimped terminals. It appears
that there are three options for using these:
1. use as is.
2. remove insulating jacket, crimp wire, put heat shrink over crimp.
3. crimp as is and put heat shrink over the insulating jacket and wire
I went with option 2, which seemed to make the connection more
mechanically sound, but it is not too late to change. Your thoughts Bob?
Also, given your affinity for faston terminals, I am curious why the
LR3C-14 does not use them?
Jeff Point
>
>
>
> They were unplated brass as I recall. I wouldn't
> have any heartburn with going directly onto the
> tabs at the back of the alternator with a single
> PIDG Faston installed on the field wire. The PIDG
> terminals are plated and made from harder metal.
> Electrically and mechanically a much better terminal.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
>> Chief Aircraft has the Pro Crimper II on their online catalog for
$95, but it's a little tricky to find. Use the search function for
"terminals", then click on the "wiring terminals" line of the search
results and scroll down. www.chiefaircraft.com
Just make sure it has the dies with it, and if you want the extra
connectors/terminals (i.e. the kit), it may be worth the extra few bucks
at digi or at chief if they sell it that way.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: William Slaughter [mailto:willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu]
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
-->
Chief Aircraft has the Pro Crimper II on their online catalog for $95,
but it's a little tricky to find. Use the search function for
"terminals", then click on the "wiring terminals" line of the search
results and scroll down. www.chiefaircraft.com
William Slaughter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
Bowen
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
-->
Avery Tools. $15 rental for the panel punch.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
KahnSG(at)aol.com said:
>
> Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
> Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches
> for instruments than Greenlee?
>
> Steve
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ELT Control Requirements |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Don't know the official answer, but a local builder was told by the DAR
that would be inspecting his plane that he needed to install the remote
switch/indicator. They went back and forth on the issue for a bit and
bottom line, he ended having to install the remote switch/indicator.
Sorry for the lack of details, but take it for what it's worth.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: BAKEROCB(at)aol.com [mailto:BAKEROCB(at)aol.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ELT Control Requirements
7/10/2003
Hello Fellow Builders, I am interested in knowing the definitive word on
whether or not an ELT installed in a general aviation airplane (type
certificated
or amateur built) must be able to be controlled by the pilot while in
flight.
By controlled I mean able to turn OFF or ON, or from an UNARMED state to
an
ARMED state. Further, must the pilot be automatically informed (by
lights or
other means) by the ELT when it is transmitting?
There seems to be a general presumption that there is a requirement for
in
flight control capability and some ELT's being sold have remote cable
extensions
that permit this control. Some also provide a warning light when
transmitting.
But there is nothing in FAR Sec. 91.207 that states those requirements.
There
is nothing in TSO-C91a that states those requirements, but this TSO like
so
many others is a very superficial document and the meat of the TSO's
requirements are found in the references to the TSO.
TSO-91a references Radio Technical Commission for Aeronautics (RTCA)
Document
No. DO-183, "Minimum Operational Performance Standards for Emergency
Locator
Transmitters; Automatic Fixed - ELT (AF), Automatic Portable - ELT (AP),
Automatic Deployable - ELT (AD), Survival - ELT (S); Operating on 121.5
and 243.0
Megahertz," Section 2.0, dated May 13, 1983, but I don't have access to
this
document.
I am interested in people's experience and opinions on this subject, but
please don't make any definitive pronouncements unless you also provide
specific
references.
I am currently flying a type certificated Diamond Aircraft DA20-C1
composite
airplane that has an EBC (Emergency Beacon Corp.) EBC 502 ELT
installed.**
This ELT is mounted back in the baggage compartment behind the right
seat
occupant's right shoulder. It is within view of the pilot, but beyond
his reach
during flight. It has no remote control arrangement of any kind or any
warning
light when activated. It does have a separate battery that is supposed
to provide
power to an audible warning when the ELT is transmitting, but I don't
know if
this audible warning can be heard over the ambient cockpit noise and
through
headset sound protection.
If this arrangement is legal / acceptable I don't see why one would need
to
install the remote control / warning light capability that comes with an
ELT
like the ACK ELT-01 in their amateur built experimental aircraft unless
there is
some requirement that I am not aware of.
Can anybody clear this up? Many thanks.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
PS: This ELT has one puny little thin vertical wire antenna sticking up
out
of the top of it. No fancy coil in the antenna wire, no ground plane of
any
kind. Makes one wonder about all the fuss about installing radiating
strips of
metal foil in order to provide a ground plane as is commonly suggested
for ELT
antenna installations.
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | AC rated key switch |
Bob,
I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push button
for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some measure of
security for overnights away from home, airshows etc. My idea is to
place a simple two position key switch, with key removable from either
position, in series with the DC master power switch. The switch I am
looking at is Digikey p/n 360-1456-ND.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0864.pdf
This switch is not DC rated, but is AC rated for 3A @250V. Since the
switch would not be used to actually control the circuit, only prevent
it from being energized, I do not believe the lack of a DC rating would
be an issue. I am aware that this adds another potential point of
failure, but I am willing to trade this for the added security.
Your thoughts?
Jeff Point
RV-6 FWF/ wiring
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-Crimp terminals... |
Hello Jeff,
not spad on terminals, I used ring terminals and this worked pretty well
and I bought them from B&C.
Ok, a bit more worke then spads (unscrewing total) but I feel more confident
then with some kind of spads.
Werner (final stage wiring)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: B-Crimp terminals...
>
> Sure, now you tell me. I will just go with the molex type connector
> included with the alternator.
>
> As long as we are on the topic of connectors...
> In wiring up my shiny new LR3C-14 regulator, I noticed that it uses
> spade type connectors. Since B & C doesn't sell these, I was forced to
> go to Radio Shack and use the el-cheapo crimped terminals. It appears
> that there are three options for using these:
>
> 1. use as is.
> 2. remove insulating jacket, crimp wire, put heat shrink over crimp.
> 3. crimp as is and put heat shrink over the insulating jacket and wire
>
> I went with option 2, which seemed to make the connection more
> mechanically sound, but it is not too late to change. Your thoughts Bob?
>
> Also, given your affinity for faston terminals, I am curious why the
> LR3C-14 does not use them?
>
> Jeff Point
>
> >
> >
> >
> > They were unplated brass as I recall. I wouldn't
> > have any heartburn with going directly onto the
> > tabs at the back of the alternator with a single
> > PIDG Faston installed on the field wire. The PIDG
> > terminals are plated and made from harder metal.
> > Electrically and mechanically a much better terminal.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
Looking up that part number, I see PG terminals, (which I think are the
Plast-Grip terminals from page 172)... not the PIDG Diamond Grips (from
page 181)... which did you receive, or have you received the kit yet?
Considering that the PGs are only half the price of the PIDGs, I'd
suspect they are the more ordinary automotive-type... can you confirm it
one way or the other?
-John R.
Don Honabach wrote:
>
>Steve,
>
>I bought it at www.digikey.com
>
>Part # A9821-ND
>
>Includes the AMP Pro Crimper II, Red/Blue/Yellow PIDG Die, and an
>assortment of PIDG connectors.
>
>Cost was $112.50 plus shipping.
>
>Don
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: KahnSG(at)aol.com [mailto:KahnSG(at)aol.com]
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
>
>
>Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
>Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches for
>
>instruments than Greenlee?
>
>Steve
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches |
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
The kit comes with an assortment of both styles - check out Tyco/AMPs
site and search on the mfg. part. It will have a better description of
the kit.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: jrourke@allied-computer.com [mailto:jrourke@allied-computer.com]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
Looking up that part number, I see PG terminals, (which I think are the
Plast-Grip terminals from page 172)... not the PIDG Diamond Grips (from
page 181)... which did you receive, or have you received the kit yet?
Considering that the PGs are only half the price of the PIDGs, I'd
suspect they are the more ordinary automotive-type... can you confirm it
one way or the other?
-John R.
Don Honabach wrote:
>-->
>
>Steve,
>
>I bought it at www.digikey.com
>
>Part # A9821-ND
>
>Includes the AMP Pro Crimper II, Red/Blue/Yellow PIDG Die, and an
>assortment of PIDG connectors.
>
>Cost was $112.50 plus shipping.
>
>Don
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: KahnSG(at)aol.com [mailto:KahnSG(at)aol.com]
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re:Pro Crimper II & hole punches
>
>
>Where did Don buy the crimper for $120.00?
>
>Does anyone have a cheaper source for 3.125 & 2.250 in. hole punches
>for
>
>instruments than Greenlee?
>
>Steve
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:22:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
davevon(at)tir.com writes:
> Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC converter
> for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
>
>
Dave,
The ANR headset manufacturer's statement is true to get the best performance
possible. A DC-DC converter is considerable more parts count than just an
LM-317 and voltage divider resistors. They are building or selling a power
supply that truly isolates input and supplied output voltages.
If cheap is what you want, see how many 9 V batteries you can buy for $80.
...A stand alone battery is the best isolation possible...You could attach a
small charging circuit to your ship's power cheaply that could keep a 9.6 V
NiCad battery pack alive and switch it out of the circuit manually, etc.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC rated key switch |
Put your toggle switches under a locking cover and forego the extra failure
point of an additional switch...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: AC rated key switch
>
> Bob,
>
> I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push button
> for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some measure of
> security for overnights away from home, airshows etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
Thanks John,
I was wondering about the LM-317 being a clean enough power source. My main
reason for wanting to go with the aircraft power system is to eliminate the
need to turn the ANR on and off separate from everything else.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <KITFOXZ(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
> In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:22:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> davevon(at)tir.com writes:
>
> > Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> > supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC
converter
> > for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
> >
> >
>
> Dave,
>
> The ANR headset manufacturer's statement is true to get the best
performance
> possible. A DC-DC converter is considerable more parts count than just an
> LM-317 and voltage divider resistors. They are building or selling a
power
> supply that truly isolates input and supplied output voltages.
>
> If cheap is what you want, see how many 9 V batteries you can buy for $80.
> ...A stand alone battery is the best isolation possible...You could attach
a
> small charging circuit to your ship's power cheaply that could keep a 9.6
V
> NiCad battery pack alive and switch it out of the circuit manually, etc.
>
> John P. Marzluf
> Columbus, Ohio
> Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
John,
I have two of the kits integratet into my system, going to one fuse on the
panel, I can
send you some pictures. I do not worrie about a switch, power on means ANR
power
available, if it dies, I have standard headsets, together with the ANR kit
they are anyway
cheaper.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
> Thanks John,
>
> I was wondering about the LM-317 being a clean enough power source. My
main
> reason for wanting to go with the aircraft power system is to eliminate
the
> need to turn the ANR on and off separate from everything else.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KITFOXZ(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:22:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > davevon(at)tir.com writes:
> >
> > > Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> > > supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC
> converter
> > > for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > The ANR headset manufacturer's statement is true to get the best
> performance
> > possible. A DC-DC converter is considerable more parts count than just
an
> > LM-317 and voltage divider resistors. They are building or selling a
> power
> > supply that truly isolates input and supplied output voltages.
> >
> > If cheap is what you want, see how many 9 V batteries you can buy for
$80.
> > ...A stand alone battery is the best isolation possible...You could
attach
> a
> > small charging circuit to your ship's power cheaply that could keep a
9.6
> V
> > NiCad battery pack alive and switch it out of the circuit manually, etc.
> >
> > John P. Marzluf
> > Columbus, Ohio
> > Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>
>I'm clearly confused by your reference to the second bus in Z14 as the
>"fantasy" bus. I am using that bus for critical items such as my backup
>electric gyro and essential items that the smaller of the two
>alternators can safely run. Otherwise most of my critical components,
>including the FADEC are dual-homed so they will work off either bus
>without having to throw the cross-feed.
>Are you implying that the 2nd bus is unnecessary in an all-electric
>aircraft? If so, how can I feed one primary bus with two alternators
>etc. and an automatic cutover?
No, just ranting over the fact that there are a number
of products offered for use in both certified and
OBAM aircraft including FADEC's, EFIS systems, engine
instrumentation systems, etc. that cannon live in
the real world of operation in an airplane. 25 years
ago it was a challenge to design these systems for
good behavior in spite of momentary brownout during cranking.
Today it's much easier. I'm mystified as to why suppliers
would push off requirements for a second battery
onto the customer for things like EFIS and other
processor based accessories.
In the case of FADEC, advantages of fully redundant sources are
easy to understand as with ANY other form of electrically
dependent engine. FADEC guys can sorta slide into home plate
with nobody noticing they've got holes in their shoes . . . unless
their shortcomings negate the advantage of what Z-14 architecture
offers for improved cranking on two relatively small batteries
COMBINED with there reliability of dual, independent
electrical systems.
Part of that advantage has to be given up to allow one of the
ship's batteries keep the FADEC alive during cranking. Hence
our aux bus having become a 'fantasy' bus . . . a bus for
products that purchased on faith that they're ready to
function in the real world.
>On the FADEC issue, there is no question they are erring on the side of
>caution (and their STC) as you are well aware producing SPAM cans for
>the general public. I suspect they have no choice.
I can't disagree on range of choices but I'll bet few
of the choices were support by engineering caution.
I can cite several cases where bureaucratic/regulatory
tomfoolery masquerading as caution has impeded
simple fixes to problems which have cost
$millions$ and years of lost opportunity.
I've been going over the drawings from Aerosance
and was astounded at the amount of wire and connectors it takes
to put one of these systems in an airplane. If one installs a wire it's
fair to assume that it has a useful purpose. It may even be required
for a particular system to function. If a system like FADEC is
required to function for continued flight in spite of a failure,
then there must be a back-up system -AND- a way of detecting and
annunciating the failure -AND- an hopefully a way to help a mechanic
localize and repair the failure on the ground. I am immediately
suspicious of a system that brings 51 wires into the cockpit
from system black boxes and needs 8 circuits protected at 10A each
distributed on two busses. Additionally, the system appears
to have three toggle switches in addition to something called
a start/control switch that uses a totally mystifying symbology.
>I as most builders on the other hand am striving for a much better
>electrical system design than most production aircraft ... one that
>brings the aircraft into the 20th century. Just like the FADEC finally
>brings engine technology into the same. I'm stuck in the middle trying
>to strike a balance between the two ... thus my questions to experts
>such as yourself.
Understand . . . but keep in mind that complexity is often
mistaken for useful redundancy . . . but in this case,
suppose the system could have been designed to meet single
failure operational goals with say 12 wires and 2 protected circuits
from two buses, the system would be 1/4th as likely to suffer
a maintenance event due to wiring problems. The detection,
annunciation and troubleshooting tasks would be markedly
reduced as well. Studies of their vision of a single engine
system architecture as depicted on the drawings suggest
a poor understanding of how their system would be installed
in a real airplane. They've produced a drawing that may
well explain requirements for the FADEC system but I now
understand why lister Schroeder sent me the drawings. There
is no part of the Aerosance drawing that remotely matches
how a stock certified or OBAM ship is wired so that one can
easily see where his stock airplane ends and the FADEC system
begins.
I've started some system integration drawings in an
attempt to sort out the options and make it look like
something we'd actually want to build. Obviously can't
help the FADEC, it's a what-you-see-is-what-you-get
deal. I can hook it up to Z-14 in a reasoned manner
but it will take some conversation with the manufacturer
to better understand real requirements.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC rated key switch |
>
>Bob,
>
>I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push button
>for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some measure of
>security for overnights away from home, airshows etc. My idea is to
>place a simple two position key switch, with key removable from either
>position, in series with the DC master power switch. The switch I am
>looking at is Digikey p/n 360-1456-ND.
>
>http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0864.pdf
>
>This switch is not DC rated, but is AC rated for 3A @250V. Since the
>switch would not be used to actually control the circuit, only prevent
>it from being energized, I do not believe the lack of a DC rating would
>be an issue. I am aware that this adds another potential point of
>failure, but I am willing to trade this for the added security.
>
>Your thoughts?
Security against what?
How many things does a thief break through BEFORE he
gets to your magneto switches? I used to have a tenant
in one of the hangars on our airport that left
the doors on his airplane unlocked. This was to
make sure the thief didn't do many hundreds of dollars
damage to his door -AND- get the radios to boot.
Recall that twin engine airplanes don't have TWO
keyswitches . . . if you get inside a King-Air
or a C-310 . . . you own the airplane.
I once brought a rental airplane home after having lost the keys
and if the battery had been dead, I STILL could have brought the
airplane home (couldn't crank it with the battery, had to prop
the engine). If someone wants your airplane bad enough
and knows what he is doing, he'll get it . . . unless you make
it so difficult compared to stealing the airplane next door that he
won't bother with yours. My personal favorite security is a piece
of really hard chain, covered with leather jacket, and just long
enough to do a figure-8 over your prop hub to be secured with
a really good padlock. See locksmith for the lock.
This kind of security is right out in front visible to lots of
other folks should some thief think he is going to work on the
chain . . . You can get a leather cover sewn up at any seat cover
or custom leather shop. Wont scratch the prop or spinner. Best thing
yet is that it adds nothing to parts count for your airplane's
operating systems.
As to switch "ratings" see
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
Any switch with any ratings would do for the application
you propose.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: special terminals for LR3?????? |
>
>Sure, now you tell me. I will just go with the molex type connector
>included with the alternator.
>
>As long as we are on the topic of connectors...
>In wiring up my shiny new LR3C-14 regulator, I noticed that it uses
>spade type connectors. Since B & C doesn't sell these, I was forced to
>go to Radio Shack and use the el-cheapo crimped terminals. It appears
>that there are three options for using these:
>
>1. use as is.
>2. remove insulating jacket, crimp wire, put heat shrink over crimp.
>3. crimp as is and put heat shrink over the insulating jacket and wire
>
>I went with option 2, which seemed to make the connection more
>mechanically sound, but it is not too late to change. Your thoughts Bob?
>
>Also, given your affinity for faston terminals, I am curious why the
>LR3C-14 does not use them?
What makes you think the LR3 uses spade terminals? The
screws are easily removed for the use of ring terminals.
We've never carried nor recommended the use of a "spade"
(I think you mean open fork) terminals.
The screw terminals were Bill's wish at the time of
the design effort. If it were my regulator, it would
have a d-sub connector on it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Contacts for Narco 111 or 112 |
>
>Hi,
>I was wondering if anyone knows what contacts are used in the Narco 111 or
>112 15 pin card edge connector? Narco gave me a Molex connector and contact
>number but it no longer appears valid. I have compared the contact to the
>ones used in my double sided Icom and Terra connectors but, due to the
>single sided Narco design the contacts do not appear interchangeable.
>Thanks in advance,
>Dean Head
what Molex numbers were you given?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator |
>
>Bob!
>
>Will the Ford VR166 regulator work with B&C's L-60 alternator or do I need
>to purchase B&C's LR3C-14 regulator? Can buy a whole lot of VR166 units
>for the pricey LR3C-14 unit.
Yes it will . . . but keep in mind that the LR3 is THREE
products in one package. Regulator, OV Protection, Active
Notification of Low Voltage. If you choose the VR166 route,
you should count on procuring and mounting the other two
feature by alternative means. If you call the LR3 a "regulator"
the price is breathtaking. If you call it an "alternator system
controller" with everything you need in one box, the price
makes more sense.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC rated key switch |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Bob,
>>
>>I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push button
>>for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some measure of
>>security for overnights away from home, airshows etc. My idea is to
>>place a simple two position key switch, with key removable from either
>>position, in series with the DC master power switch. The switch I am
>>looking at is Digikey p/n 360-1456-ND.
>>
>>http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0864.pdf
>>
>>This switch is not DC rated, but is AC rated for 3A @250V. Since the
>>switch would not be used to actually control the circuit, only prevent
>>it from being energized, I do not believe the lack of a DC rating would
>>be an issue. I am aware that this adds another potential point of
>>failure, but I am willing to trade this for the added security.
>>
>>Your thoughts?
>>
>>
>
> Security against what?
>
> How many things does a thief break through BEFORE he
> gets to your magneto switches? I used to have a tenant
> in one of the hangars on our airport that left
> the doors on his airplane unlocked. This was to
> make sure the thief didn't do many hundreds of dollars
> damage to his door -AND- get the radios to boot.
>
One of the reasons to use a switch like this is if you live in (which I
do) or fly to NJ is that the state requires at least two locking devices
for a GA aircraft. Can be a locked hanger and a locked canopy or, if it
is tied down rather than hangered, a locked canopy and a starter lock.
I would have to assume that your method of a chain and padlock would be
acceptable as one of the locking devices also, although a bit heavy to
carry around in the plane.
Can't say as I agree with it, but unfortunately it is the law now.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: special terminals for LR3?????? |
I played around with using ring terminals, but it was sufficiently
difficult to re-insert the screw that I concluded that a spade was
called for. In my (admittedly limited) experience with electronic
devices, a receptacle of this type usually indicates a spade terminal.
Apparently my reasoning was flawed, and I will try again using a ring
terminal. I do mean the "open fork" type when I refer to a spade. It
is what I have always known it as (perhaps because it's shaped like a
garden spade? Who knows.)
I have a copy of your book, a big box full of electric goodies from B &
C and a thousand questions. I do appreciate the time you spend on the
list answering all of our dumb questions and helping improve the state
of the art of electric systems.
Jeff Point
> What makes you think the LR3 uses spade terminals? The
> screws are easily removed for the use of ring terminals.
> We've never carried nor recommended the use of a "spade"
> (I think you mean open fork) terminals.
>
> The screw terminals were Bill's wish at the time of
> the design effort. If it were my regulator, it would
> have a d-sub connector on it.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
Bob,
What are your thoughts on how clean the power source for ANR headsets need
to be? If I build a LM-317 voltage regulator and it's not good enough,
could I damage the ANR circuitry? How will the ANR respond if the input is
not clean enough?
I've got the Headset Inc. ANR setup in a Peltor 7005 and it really works
great! I'm also using their auto shut off battery box, which I'm sure has
saved me a couple of batteries already. The problem is that the battery box
lays on the floor in front of the spar (RV-6) out of sight and out of mind.
The headset plugs are down under the panel (I didn't put them there). I'll
forget to turn it on before I'm strapped in and can't reach the box and/or
forget to turn it off when I hop out. (I know, could be a check list item,
but I think something like this should be transparent)
I'm going to upgrade my copilot's (wife) headset soon and just wanted to get
a handle on this.
Not affiliated with Headsets Inc. in any way, just like the way it works.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
The Silver Turtle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
> Thanks John,
>
> I was wondering about the LM-317 being a clean enough power source. My
main
> reason for wanting to go with the aircraft power system is to eliminate
the
> need to turn the ANR on and off separate from everything else.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KITFOXZ(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:22:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > davevon(at)tir.com writes:
> >
> > > Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> > > supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC
> converter
> > > for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > The ANR headset manufacturer's statement is true to get the best
> performance
> > possible. A DC-DC converter is considerable more parts count than just
an
> > LM-317 and voltage divider resistors. They are building or selling a
> power
> > supply that truly isolates input and supplied output voltages.
> >
> > If cheap is what you want, see how many 9 V batteries you can buy for
$80.
> > ...A stand alone battery is the best isolation possible...You could
attach
> a
> > small charging circuit to your ship's power cheaply that could keep a
9.6
> V
> > NiCad battery pack alive and switch it out of the circuit manually, etc.
> >
> > John P. Marzluf
> > Columbus, Ohio
> > Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | $10 fix for Noisy Transmissions??? |
Regarding noisy radio transmissions. Well, I flew with the Turn Coordinator
turned off and no one could understand my transmissions, so its apparently
my problem is not noise generated by the gyro motor. I've had my Terra 760D
into shops three times and nothing can be found wrong. Then in surfing the
web I came across this very interesting bit of information regarding the
effects of very noisy cabin environments (mine is very noisy) on the
electret microphone that most of our headsets have.
Apparently if the noisy level reaches over 95db it causes the microphone to
go into some sort of harmonic resonation such that it not only does not
cancel out the cabin noise but actually adds to it. The end effect being
that your transmission is totally garbled by the resulting noise.
There is an interesting article on this effect on the electret mic on the
Oregon Aero web site (URL below). If it doesn't take you to the discussion,
try www. Oregonareo.com, select "Product"/ "Headset Upgrade"/"Why do I have
trouble communicating..." and that will bring you to the article that
describes the effect.
http://www.oregonaero.com/p5657_2001.html
Bob, I would be interested in your assessment of this. A $10 fix would sure
be nice.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: special terminals for LR3?????? |
A closer examination of the LR3C reveals that the plastic cover over the
terminals is removable, making the use of rings a snap. I feel a little
foolish for not noticing this sooner.
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC rated key switch |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AC rated key switch
>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Bob,
> >>
> >>I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push button
> >>for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some measure of
> >>security for overnights away from home, airshows etc. My idea is to
> >>place a simple two position key switch, with key removable from either
> >>position, in series with the DC master power switch. The switch I am
> >>looking at is Digikey p/n 360-1456-ND.
> >>
> >>http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0864.pdf
> >>
> >>This switch is not DC rated, but is AC rated for 3A @250V. Since the
> >>switch would not be used to actually control the circuit, only prevent
> >>it from being energized, I do not believe the lack of a DC rating would
> >>be an issue. I am aware that this adds another potential point of
> >>failure, but I am willing to trade this for the added security.
> >>
> >>Your thoughts?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Security against what?
> >
> > How many things does a thief break through BEFORE he
> > gets to your magneto switches? I used to have a tenant
> > in one of the hangars on our airport that left
> > the doors on his airplane unlocked. This was to
> > make sure the thief didn't do many hundreds of dollars
> > damage to his door -AND- get the radios to boot.
> >
>
> One of the reasons to use a switch like this is if you live in (which I
> do) or fly to NJ is that the state requires at least two locking devices
> for a GA aircraft. Can be a locked hanger and a locked canopy or, if it
> is tied down rather than hangered, a locked canopy and a starter lock.
> I would have to assume that your method of a chain and padlock would be
> acceptable as one of the locking devices also, although a bit heavy to
> carry around in the plane.
>
> Can't say as I agree with it, but unfortunately it is the law now.
If you leave NJ or spend less than 24 hours at another NJ airport you do not
need to carry the chain with you.
John Eckel
>
> Dick Tasker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: $10 fix for Noisy Transmissions??? |
Borrow an old hand mike from someone - every fbo will have a drawer full of
them... If it clears up the audio then your theory is likely...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: $10 fix for Noisy Transmissions???
>
> Regarding noisy radio transmissions. Well, I flew with the Turn
Coordinator
> turned off and no one could understand my transmissions, so its apparently
> my problem is not noise generated by the gyro motor. I've had my Terra
760D
> into shops three times and nothing can be found wrong. Then in surfing
the
> web I came across this very interesting bit of information regarding the
> effects of very noisy cabin environments (mine is very noisy) on the
> electret microphone that most of our headsets have.
>
> Apparently if the noisy level reaches over 95db it causes the microphone
to
> go into some sort of harmonic resonation such that it not only does not
> cancel out the cabin noise but actually adds to it. The end effect being
> that your transmission is totally garbled by the resulting noise.
>
> There is an interesting article on this effect on the electret mic on the
> Oregon Aero web site (URL below). If it doesn't take you to the
discussion,
> try www. Oregonareo.com, select "Product"/ "Headset Upgrade"/"Why do I
have
> trouble communicating..." and that will bring you to the article that
> describes the effect.
>
> http://www.oregonaero.com/p5657_2001.html
>
> Bob, I would be interested in your assessment of this. A $10 fix would
sure
> be nice.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Head" <banana(at)atlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Contacts for Narco 111 or 112 |
Bob,
Following up I realized that the part number that Narco had provided was
their number. The contacts are available from them but, at a high price
($1.74 ea). This is a single sided 15 contact "molex/amp" style connector.
The contacts are identical to the more common 2 sided Molex 4338 style
connector except, the extension ears that locate the contact within the
connector body (between the crimp area and finger of the contact) are longer
than the 2 sided version. This is due to the construction of the single
sided connector body. Does this description make any sense? Maybe the $1.74
ea 'aint such a bad deal!
Thanks
Dean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynwood Stagg <woody6(at)yahoo.com> |
This is the same predicament I am in currently. I'm building a Z14 RV7A
w/FADEC. I'm no electronics expert, and it is difficult to figure out how
to put this thing in place in a reasonable way. Z14 FADEC integration help
from 'Lectric Bob would help immensely!
Thanks!
Woody Stagg
7A QB Finish Kit
>
>
>I'm clearly confused by your reference to the second bus in Z14 as
the
>"fantasy" bus. I am using that bus for critical items such as my
backup
>electric gyro and essential items that the smaller of the two
>alternators can safely run. Otherwise most of my critical
components,
>including the FADEC are dual-homed so they will work off either bus
>without having to throw the cross-feed.
> Are you implying that the 2nd bus is unnecessary in an all-electric
>aircraft? If so, how can I feed one primary bus with two
alternators
>etc. and an automatic cutover?
No, just ranting over the fact that there are a number
of products offered for use in both certified and
OBAM aircraft including FADEC's, EFIS systems, engine
instrumentation systems, etc. that cannon live in
the real world of operation in an airplane. 25 years
ago it was a challenge to design these systems for
good behavior in spite of momentary brownout during cranking.
Today it's much easier. I'm mystified as to why suppliers
would push off requirements for a second battery
onto the customer for things like EFIS and other
processor based accessories.
In the case of FADEC, advantages of fully redundant sources are
easy to understand as with ANY other form of electrically
dependent engine. FADEC guys can sorta slide into home plate
with nobody noticing they've got holes in their shoes . . .
unless
their shortcomings negate the advantage of what Z-14
architecture
offers for improved cranking on two relatively small batteries
COMBINED with there reliability of dual, independent
electrical systems.
Part of that advantage has to be given up to allow one of the
ship's batteries keep the FADEC alive during cranking. Hence
our aux bus having become a 'fantasy' bus . . . a bus for
products that purchased on faith that they're ready to
function in the real world.
> On the FADEC issue, there is no question they are erring on the side of
>caution (and their STC) as you are well aware producing SPAM cans
for
>the general public. I suspect they have no choice.
I can't disagree on range of choices but I'll bet few
of the choices were support by engineering caution.
I can cite several cases where bureaucratic/regulatory
tomfoolery masquerading as caution has impeded
simple fixes to problems which have cost
$millions$ and years of lost opportunity.
I've been going over the drawings from Aerosance
and was astounded at the amount of wire and connectors it takes
to put one of these systems in an airplane. If one installs a
wire it's
fair to assume that it has a useful purpose. It may even be
required
required to function for continued flight in spite of a failure,
then there must be a back-up system -AND-a way of detecting and
annunciating the failure -AND-an hopefully a way to help a
mechanic
localize and repair the failure on the ground. I am immediately
suspicious of a system that brings 51 wires into the cockpit
from system black boxes and needs 8 circuits protected at 10A
each
distributed on two busses. Additionally, the system appears
to have three toggle switches in addition to something called
a start/control switch that uses a totally mystifying symbology.
> I as most builders on the other hand am striving for a much better
>electrical system design than most production aircraft ... one that
>brings the aircraft into the 20th century. Just like the FADEC
finally
>brings engine technology into the same. I'm stuck in the middle
trying
>to strike a balance between the two ... thus my questions to experts
>such as yourself.
Understand . . . but keep in mind that complexity is often
mistaken for useful redundancy . . . but in this case,
suppose the system could have been designed to meet single
failure operational goals with say 12 wires and 2 protected
circuits
from two buses, the system would be 1/4th as likely to suffer
a maintenance event due to wiring problems. The detection,
annunciation and troubleshooting tasks would be markedly
reduced as well. Studies of their vision of a single engine
system architecture as depicted on the drawings suggest
a poor understanding of how their system would be installed
in a real airplane. They've produced a drawing that may
well explain requirements for the FADEC system but I now
understand why lister Schroeder sent me the drawings. There
is no part of the Aerosance drawing that remotely matches
how a stock certified or OBAM ship is wired so that one can
easily see where his stock airplane ends and the FADEC system
begins.
I've started some system integration drawings in an
attempt to sort out the options and make it look like
something we'd actually want to build. Obviously can't
help the FADEC, it's a what-you-see-is-what-you-get
deal. I can hook it up to Z-14 in a reasoned manner
but it will take some conversation with the manufacturer
to better understand real requirements.
Bob . . .
-- Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client:
http://www.opera.com/m2/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AC rated key switch |
How about a canopy lock and a throtle lock, just a u-shaped piece of
steel with lock on the bottom that prevents the throtle from being
moved. Works on our local rental Cessna. I like the itea of a prop lock
too, but the weight of the thing is something on overnight trips.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AC rated key switch
-->
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>-->
>
>
>
>>-->
>>
>>Bob,
>>
>>I have decided to use toggle switches for the ignition and a push
>>button for the starter, per your book. I would like to add some
>>measure of security for overnights away from home, airshows etc. My
>>idea is to place a simple two position key switch, with key removable
>>from either position, in series with the DC master power switch. The
>>switch I am looking at is Digikey p/n 360-1456-ND.
>>
>>http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T032/0864.pdf
>>
>>This switch is not DC rated, but is AC rated for 3A @250V. Since the
>>switch would not be used to actually control the circuit, only prevent
>>it from being energized, I do not believe the lack of a DC rating
>>would be an issue. I am aware that this adds another potential point
>>of failure, but I am willing to trade this for the added security.
>>
>>Your thoughts?
>>
>>
>
> Security against what?
>
> How many things does a thief break through BEFORE he
> gets to your magneto switches? I used to have a tenant
> in one of the hangars on our airport that left
> the doors on his airplane unlocked. This was to
> make sure the thief didn't do many hundreds of dollars
> damage to his door -AND- get the radios to boot.
>
One of the reasons to use a switch like this is if you live in (which I
do) or fly to NJ is that the state requires at least two locking devices
for a GA aircraft. Can be a locked hanger and a locked canopy or, if it
is tied down rather than hangered, a locked canopy and a starter lock.
I would have to assume that your method of a chain and padlock would be
acceptable as one of the locking devices also, although a bit heavy to
carry around in the plane.
Can't say as I agree with it, but unfortunately it is the law now.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: special terminals for LR3?????? |
>
>A closer examination of the LR3C reveals that the plastic cover over the
>terminals is removable, making the use of rings a snap. I feel a little
>foolish for not noticing this sooner.
No biggie. I won't tell about the epiphany I experienced
yesterday. My excuse is "senior moments" . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAKEROCB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | headset jack locations |
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
<<.....skip.....The headset plugs are down under the panel (I didn't put them
there).....skip..... Dave>>
7/12/2003
Hello Dave, Please let me sympathize with your unhappiness over the location
of your headset jacks.
Also let me take this as another opportunity to suggest that the best place
in a side by side two place airplane for the headset jacks for the pilot is
behind the co pilots seat within reach and view of the pilot while strapped in.
The best place for the co pilot's jacks is behind the pilots seat within view
and reach of the co pilot while he is strapped in.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAKEROCB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | special terminals for LR3?????? |
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: Jeff Point
Re: special terminals for LR3??????
<>
7/12/2003
Hello Jeff, I too was not happy with the use of ring terminals on my LR3 so I
just converted it. One can purchase bare metal male push on tabs designed to
be fastened in place with the terminal screw. Then the wire to be connected
receives a crimped on female push-on connector.
Realize that like so many other products there are lesser quality and various
sized items in the male tabs and the female push-ons so pay attention
commensurate with the ultimate quality / performance that you are seeking.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
PS: Yes, I am aware that you will increase the parts count by exactly the
number of male tabs that you install, and that Bob Nuckolls abhors parts count
increase, but considering the complexity and failure prone nature of the simple
metal parts that were added I was willing to accept that burden.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
>
>Bob,
>
>What are your thoughts on how clean the power source for ANR headsets need
>to be? If I build a LM-317 voltage regulator and it's not good enough,
>could I damage the ANR circuitry? How will the ANR respond if the input is
>not clean enough?
Been thinking about this tread . . . unless the system requires
an isolated power supply (both + and - leads floating with
respect to other parts of the system) then I think the LM317
will do just fine.
I've posted the data sheets for LM317 at
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/LM117.pdf
Recommend you try the circuit shown in upper
left corner of page 12.
For 9V output you can use fixed resistors
throughout. Put a 1500 ohm resistor in at R2.
If you need an isolated supply, there are some
surplus DC-DC converters out there that could
be used to pre-regulate the input to the circuit
above and provide isolation . . . these are
a mixed bag as they have oscillators inside that
may fix a noise issue in the intercom and create
a noise issue elsewhere.
As long as there are no isolation issues, then
you can't hurt anything by trying the LM317
regulator circuit. There's a 99.5% chance this
is going to work fine.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: special terminals for LR3?????? |
>
>I played around with using ring terminals, but it was sufficiently
>difficult to re-insert the screw that I concluded that a spade was
>called for. In my (admittedly limited) experience with electronic
>devices, a receptacle of this type usually indicates a spade terminal.
> Apparently my reasoning was flawed, and I will try again using a ring
>terminal. I do mean the "open fork" type when I refer to a spade. It
>is what I have always known it as (perhaps because it's shaped like a
>garden spade? Who knows.)
6 of one, half dozen of the other. I've heard the open-
ring terminals called "spade" terminals. For my purposes,
I try to avoid confusion between the open-ring and Faston
terminals by limiting the use of "spade" to speaking about
Fastons . . .
>I have a copy of your book, a big box full of electric goodies from B &
>C and a thousand questions. I do appreciate the time you spend on the
>list answering all of our dumb questions and helping improve the state
>of the art of electric systems.
The AeroElectric Connection's mission is to gather the
best collection of simple-ideas we can find and help
those of all experience levels assemble them into
useful systems. I'll suggest that your attitude and
actions demonstrated thus far bode well for the success
and quality of your project.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New look coming for aeroelectric.com |
Been literally "cut off" from the world for 24 hours. While
the wire laying machine was putting a new feed into my
neighbors house for their cable/internet service, they
nicked my feeder. I didn't know it until after they
left. My environmental splices don't work on RG-59
so I had to wait for the cable guy to get to us this morning
and fix it. Fortunately, my mother-in-law who lives behind
us noted the presence of the machine about the same
time our system went down so that troubleshooting the
outage was done before the cable guy got here this morning.
Anywho, we're back up and running.
Some of you many have noticed that we have removed B&C's
activity from the AeroElectric Connection server. Todd
got all the parts plugged into their website at
http://www.bandc.biz late last week and we pulled all
that data off our server about Tuesday.
It's a goal now to expand the aeroelectric.com in accordance
with the mission of providing a gathering place for
data combined with a forum for discussion about how data
(simple-ideas) can be assembled in useful and constantly
improving systems.
Someone attending a meeting I was in a few weeks ago
noted that "Those guys out there building stuff in the
garage are plagued with configuration chaos . . . it
must be a nightmare trying to get your arms around
the right way to do things."
I retorted, "No, BLESSED with configuration chaos.
Anything can be tried, anything can be changed if
it doesn't work, and every new airplane that flies
has the opportunity to be better than the last.
We (spam-can builders), on the other hand, are so busy
trying to make sure every airplane goes out the door looking like
the ones we built 15 years ago. 'Getting better'
is increasingly difficult and incrementally poorer
for return on investment. I'll opt for chaos any
day."
He snorted but offered no rebuttal. Anyhow, watch
for new features in posted data.
New directories are already in place at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Page_Per_System
Not all directories or sub-directories have files
in them - but I think the titles are self explanatory
as to the intent of future content.
I'll leave Revision 8.0 for the CD ROM on the server
as-is for the moment:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/CD/AEC8_0.zip
It contains the parts catalog as it last existed on
my server and has links to supporting documentation
that B&C may or may not have captured.
The next CD (Rev 9.0) will be a data-only publication
depicting the concentrated attention to simple-ideas.
I'll welcome suggestions for additions to the site
that will enhance your learning and building experience.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Multimeter test adaptor, diodes, etc. |
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rick Fogerson
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Multimeter test adaptor
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>I need help in understanding how to make up the test adaptor, page Z6.
>
>Do you crimp or solder the "banana plugs" to one end of the 1573 plug and
>plug the other end into the 1576 receptacle, allowing you to clamp a
>multimeter to the "banana plugs".
>
>Is there a picture somewhere of this?
>
>Would radio shack know what to sell me if I ask for "banana plugs"?
Yes, they'll know. They're also shown in the Radio Shack catalog
as shown in the clip at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Banana_Plugs.jpg
The 1576/1573 pair of connectors simply provide a convenient
means for plugging a multimeter into a cockpit mounted test jack
to measure field voltage. Figure Z-23 describes the airplane
wiring. You'll need to make an extension cable with banana plugs
(or what ever mates with your multimeter) on one end and a
274-1573 plug on the other.
Alternatively, one could simply mount a pair of 274-725 banana jacks
on the panel (Item 23 down lower on the clip cited above)
and use test leads with banana plugs on both ends
to effect the connection between multimeter and the electrical
system. However one chooses to do this, it affords the troubleshooter
a vital piece of information needed to diagnose alternator system
problems BEFORE pulling the cowl.
>It's probably there but I can't find in your book the purpose of the 5A
>C.B. in the alt. field wire.
If you use a modern, crowbar ov protection system, the system
DEPENDS on a convenient means for interrupting
the field supply in case of an ov event. This is
described in terms of hardware in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bleadov.pdf
and described operationally on page 6-7 of the book.
Since it is possible to get nuisance trips of the
OV system, it's the one breaker that I would include
on the panel of my airplane even when I'm using fuse
blocks to protect the rest of the system.
>Also, does it need to be in plain view so you can see immediately if it
>trips or can I put it out of the way but still accessable by touch in-flight?
I like to put them in same row as switches. See
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Switches.pdf
>And if I haven't strained your patience too far, the Radio Shack P/N for
>the 1N4005 diode. One responded with 276-1141 and another with 276-1105
The 276-1141 is a 3A diode like those we pre-install
on the contactors which you can see at:
http://www.bandc.biz/S701-2.html
and
http://www.bandc.biz/S701-1.html
The 1A diodes would work fine here but they're
smaller and not no robust. The 3A devices are
mechanically a better choice. It would work but
is pretty fat for use on the S704 coil terminals.
The 276-1105 is as near as I can tell,
a bogus number. I plugged it into the search engine
on Radio Shack's website and it came up empty.
Refering to my Radio Shack catalog, I find
this listing:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
Here's the full range of 1A, 3A and 25A bridge
rectifier diodes suited for use in the various
applications depicted in the website articles
and pages of the 'Connection.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>This is the same predicament I am in currently. I'm building a Z14 RV7A
>w/FADEC. I'm no electronics expert, and it is difficult to figure out how
>to put this thing in place in a reasonable way. Z14 FADEC integration help
>from 'Lectric Bob would help immensely!
It's in the works. Need to have some conversation with Aerosance
next week to ferret out some operational details . . .
Does anyone have an installation manual or a pilot's
operating handbook for this system?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Contacts for Narco 111 or 112 |
>
>Bob,
>Following up I realized that the part number that Narco had provided was
>their number. The contacts are available from them but, at a high price
>($1.74 ea). This is a single sided 15 contact "molex/amp" style connector.
>The contacts are identical to the more common 2 sided Molex 4338 style
>connector except, the extension ears that locate the contact within the
>connector body (between the crimp area and finger of the contact) are longer
>than the 2 sided version. This is due to the construction of the single
>sided connector body. Does this description make any sense? Maybe the $1.74
>ea 'aint such a bad deal!
Check out the Molex listings under
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data
If your radio connector is the single sided, 6422 then you
need pins selected from the data sheet at
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Molex_2478_Pins.pdf
These are minimally sold in bags of 100 and would
cost you about $0.60 each. If all you need is the
small number to install one radio, I'll suggest there
is little value for time expended + minimum buy
quantities to beat the price down.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry & Linda" <tyeager(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | sending to wrong person |
to whom this may concern; your emailing to the wrong person. please check your
email address before sending thank you. im getting tired of deleteing . check
with the person your trying contact and get his address corrected .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: $10 fix for Noisy Transmissions??? |
>
>
>Regarding noisy radio transmissions. Well, I flew with the Turn Coordinator
>turned off and no one could understand my transmissions, so its apparently
>my problem is not noise generated by the gyro motor. I've had my Terra 760D
>into shops three times and nothing can be found wrong. Then in surfing the
>web I came across this very interesting bit of information regarding the
>effects of very noisy cabin environments (mine is very noisy) on the
>electret microphone that most of our headsets have.
>
>Apparently if the noisy level reaches over 95db it causes the microphone to
>go into some sort of harmonic resonation such that it not only does not
>cancel out the cabin noise but actually adds to it. The end effect being
>that your transmission is totally garbled by the resulting noise.
>
>There is an interesting article on this effect on the electret mic on the
>Oregon Aero web site (URL below). If it doesn't take you to the discussion,
>try www. Oregonareo.com, select "Product"/ "Headset Upgrade"/"Why do I have
>trouble communicating..." and that will bring you to the article that
>describes the effect.
>
>http://www.oregonaero.com/p5657_2001.html
>
>Bob, I would be interested in your assessment of this. A $10 fix would sure
>be nice.
This is the first I've heard of the phenomenon. I'm going to have
to look into it with more detail. In the mean time, they describe
the fabrication of their product pretty well. You can buy the open
cell foam windscreens at Radio Shack for larger microphones but
there's nothing magic about contiguous envelope of windscreen material
around the mic . . . you just need a layer between the noise+voice
(frontside)
and noise (backside) ports on the microphone. A pull-over cover could
be fabricated from a scrap of Naugahyde . . . and if your budget goes
as high as $10, you can buy the critters already made at
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/micmuf.php
for $9.95 each . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FSmith9890(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List power supply for ANR headsets |
I used a fixed output positive voltage regulator that puts out 9 volts at
100ma, with any input of 10 to 30 volts. This is really the only part that you
need, although I put a small 100 mfd condenser across the output. Works fine.
DC to DC isolation , whatever that is is not needed Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Primer? |
As I was partially constructed when I came upon The Aeroelectric Connection Iwent
along with the kit manufacturer's instructions and installed a traditional,
plunger style (for lack of a better term) primer. As I already havean electric
boost pumpI'm considering switching to an electric primer valve.
What are the advantages disadvantages of and electric primer valve? The added
safety of having one less fuel line behind the firewall is all I can think of.
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant
Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com VirusScan Online
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer? |
Grant, I put one of the fuel valves that Aircraft Spruce sells in my
Glasair. It works GREAT. All the plumbing is in the engine compartment.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electric Primer?
>
> As I was partially constructed when I came upon The Aeroelectric
Connection Iwent along with the kit manufacturer's instructions and
installed a traditional, plunger style (for lack of a better term) primer.
As I already havean electric boost pumpI'm considering switching to an
electric primer valve.
>
> What are the advantages disadvantages of and electric primer valve? The
added safety of having one less fuel line behind the firewall is all I can
think of. Any input will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Grant
> Protect your PC - Click here
for McAfee.com VirusScan Online
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: headset jack locations |
In my Glasair, I put the jacks in the top of the wing, right next to the
side wall, just aft of the main spar wing attach brackets. That spot is
near your knee. It's real convenient, and you can SEE them and easily reach
them, unlike some of the behind-the-seat arrangements.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: <BAKEROCB(at)aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: headset jack locations
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
>
>
> <<.....skip.....The headset plugs are down under the panel (I didn't put
them
> there).....skip..... Dave>>
>
> 7/12/2003
>
> Hello Dave, Please let me sympathize with your unhappiness over the
location
> of your headset jacks.
>
> Also let me take this as another opportunity to suggest that the best
place
> in a side by side two place airplane for the headset jacks for the pilot
is
> behind the co pilots seat within reach and view of the pilot while
strapped in.
> The best place for the co pilot's jacks is behind the pilots seat within
view
> and reach of the co pilot while he is strapped in.
>
> 'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Foerster" <jmfpublic(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: power supply |
Dave,
For less than $3, you can get a surplus DC/DC 12 to 9 volt converter at www.alltronics.com
The part number is Ll2SER2509-GP, listed under power supplies. It is limited to
225 ma, which is good enough for about 4 headsets. This saves you the task
of building the LM317, which will work just fine
Jim Foerster
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <bob(at)flyboybob.com> |
'Lectric Bob,
I designed an alternative to the Z-14 diagram that uses diodes from the two
battery busses to power the main and essential busses. My engine is
supplied with a permanent magnet alternator and I added a second one for
parts consistency. The over voltage protection disconnects the dynamo from
the battery using a disconnect relay. A quad op amp, voltage divider and
zener diode reference drives the disconnect relay. If the voltage regulator
goes over voltage it is automatically disconnected and an over voltage
disconnect light is lit on the panel. An additional voltage since circuit
is used to monitor the essential bus voltage and drive over and under
voltage indicator lights on the panel. If the essential bus goes under
voltage I can shed the main bus load by opening the two circuit breaker
switches connecting the main bus to the two battery busses. There is a
standby essential bus switch that will connect to the battery side of the
battery contactors so the two master switches can be closed and eliminate
the battery contactors and their field load.
There is no interconnect for starting, the starter runs off battery 2 and
everything else including electronic ignition runs off of battery 1. After
starting the number 2 master is switched on and both systems are online. I
am considering Concorde RG-1207 batteries. The MEEL is:
Load Amps Source
Notes
Light dimmer 0 - .700 Measured use
.700 amps
Electronic ignition 8 From Specs
Fuel Pumps .500 From Specs
Transponder .800 Measured
Turn Coordinator .100 Measured
Nav/Com .500 Measured
Compass .200 Measured
microMonitor .050 Measured
Auto Pilot and Trim .500 Measured
Prop 0 - 3 Measured
0 amps when not changing pitch
Total 11.350
Using two 10AH batteries yields:
((10AH + 10AH) * 50% ) / 11.350 Amps ) * (60 min/hr) = 53 minutes battery
only run time
Is this realistic with dual dynamos, or should I consider larger capacity
(and weight) batteries?
I have changed ISPs so you should be able to see the picture at:
http://flyboybob.com/kr2/wd0002.htm. The pull-down at the bottom of the
diagram lets you select which sheet of the diagram to view, power
distribution, grounding or wiring diagram.
Thanks for all your help.
Regards,
Bob Lee
______________________________
N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Hi Bob -
I had a long talk with Jabe Luttrell at Aerosance this past Friday. Jabe is
the VP of Engineering. He sent me 3 other diagrams to look over. They are
for an aircraft with a rear mounted engine. I believe they are close to
what Velocity has in their new factory bird. Scott Baker at Velocity told
me that they are going to a dual alternator/dual battery system. Aerosance
shows an optional second alternator in this set of diagrams.
One note: the keyed switch is for starter actuation and also it completes
an arming circuit for each channel of the FADEC. My thought would be to
include that arming function on the channel power switch (S700-2-50). That
way, the whole engine is not relying on one multi purpose switch. The
starter could then be push button or keyed (New Jersey's 2-lock law).
There is a rationale for having so many cb's/fuzes. I do not fully
understand it so you may want to call Jabe and discuss it. His number is:
860 409-7880 x15. He agrees that with a dual battery/dual alternator you
can leave out the Hall Effect current monitor, but again, I'm not sure how
you would take it out. He can get you the installation manual - if there is
one.
I believe that this FADEC system needs 2 batteries and 2 alternators for
optimal safety and redundancy. Thus, it begs for meshing with an already
existing, well-designed system: Z-14. :-))
I'll convert the drawings from .pdf to .dwg and get them to you today.
Cheers,
John
wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> This is the same predicament I am in currently. I'm building a Z14 RV7A
>> w/FADEC. I'm no electronics expert, and it is difficult to figure out
>> how
>> to put this thing in place in a reasonable way. Z14 FADEC integration
>> help
>> from 'Lectric Bob would help immensely!
>
> It's in the works. Need to have some conversation with Aerosance
> next week to ferret out some operational details . . .
>
> Does anyone have an installation manual or a pilot's
> operating handbook for this system?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAKEROCB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | headset jack locations |
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "J. Oberst"
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
<>
7/13/2003
Hello Jim, Thanks for your response. I am glad that you are happy with your
headset jack locations.
I fully agree with the need to SEE the jacks as you are attempting to use
them. That is why I say that the installations in back of the opposite seat must
be in view and reach of the intended user -- just turning the head should be
sufficient to see them.
Among other advantages of the behind the opposite seat locations is no cords
dangling / lying across the lap.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Epiphany" redux . . . |
>Curiosity got the better of me when you mentioned the "epiphany I
>experienced". So, looking it up on the Internet, I
>find the following, and I still didn't get your meaning.
>Oh well.
>Cecil Hatfield
Good morning my friend,
With due notice given to third order definitions
from Webster:
Epiphany
3a (1) : a usually sudden manifestation or perception
of the essential nature or meaning of something (2) : an
intuitive grasp of reality through something (as an event)
usually simple and striking (3) : an illuminating
discovery b : a revealing scene or moment
I experienced a "simple and striking" epiphany when
I ripped the gearbox out of the drill motor I selected
for driving my centrifuge project while attempting
to get rated horsepower at 1/3 of rated RPM. Better
yet, my division VP was standing there watching while
I did it.
I've got the centrifuge back in my shop being fitted with
a new, more robust drill motor and a 3:1 reduction chain
drive so that when I ask the drill motor for nearly 1 hp
of output, it really stands a chance of delivering it.
Everyone has opportunities to take their turn in this
situation. My boss at Electro-Mech about 25 years ago insisted
that we use a drive shaft with universal joints to take
14,000 RPM x 10 HP motion from a variable speed drive
through a sealed shaft in the wall of an environmental
chamber to test starter generators we were designing
for Beech.
I wanted to turn the generator with a hydraulic motor
driven with a pump on the Vari-Drive and take a
couple of hydraulic lines through the chamber wall.
He opined that the shaft would be quite sufficient.
He further resisted my suggestion that we use VW drive
shafts fitted with constant velocity joints as the
coupling mechanism. This was years before popularity
of front wheel drive cars and the VW was the only
plentiful source of magic-joints I was aware of.
The very first time this system was fired up, he was at
the controls with a Beech purchasing guy standing behind
him (Beech had bought us the new chamber as part of the
non-recurring development costs for the program). As he
cranked 'er past 10K, there was sudden onset of loud buzzing
followed shortly by a very loud clank. Fortunately, the
scatter shield we'd put in place kept all the pieces from
flying about the lab.
Two weeks later, we spun up our first test article to
14,000 RPM with nary a whimper . . . on the end of two
hydraulic lines. I was in Electro-Mech's mechanical test
lab last week. That system is still in use.
Fortunately, my own educational experience last week was
not a deleterious influence on schedule - boss's
chuckles as he walked away adequately suppressed
concerns for the program.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: headset jack locations |
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "J. Oberst"
><joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> < side wall, just aft of the main spar wing attach brackets. That spot is
> near your knee. It's real convenient, and you can SEE them and easily reach
> them, unlike some of the behind-the-seat arrangements. Jim Oberst >>
>
>7/13/2003
>
>Hello Jim, Thanks for your response. I am glad that you are happy with your
>headset jack locations.
>
>I fully agree with the need to SEE the jacks as you are attempting to use
>them. That is why I say that the installations in back of the opposite
>seat must
>be in view and reach of the intended user -- just turning the head should be
>sufficient to see them.
>
>Among other advantages of the behind the opposite seat locations is no cords
>dangling / lying across the lap.
The only jacks I've personally installed were new ones for an
intercom system we were installing in one of our C-150 trainers
at 1K1. I got the idea that putting them above and behind the seats
so that cords dangled behind and out of the way went over well
with the mechanic signing off on the install. Two weeks later,
one of the instructors suggested that the pilot's jack should
be on the right side and passenger jack should be on the left,
easier for both individuals to see/reach their jacks. Flipping
a few wires over in a connector accomplished the fix. Of course,
one needs to put prominent labels on the jacks so as to
avoid confusion but everyone really seemed to like the arrangement.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Noisy Radio transmission |
Regarding pervious thread on noisy communciation over aircraft radio.
Well, I make a Micmuff type of cover out of some old demin patches for blue
jeans that had sticky on one side. I put it on the mic for my trip to
Mississippi yesterday and had no problem talking with anyone. I was in
South Carolina approx 90 miles away when I heard a guy overy my home field
and just for the heck of it gave him a call and was stunned when he
responded. Called several Unicoms on the trip and all responded. Still can
hear the cockpit noise in the background, but at least now it does not
overide my voice. So apparently there is something to the article on the
Oregon Aero website about how intense noise causes electret mics to
malfunction and add even more noise to the system rather than cancel it.
Total cost approx $0.50! Hopefully, this is the cure
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
I am installing LSE's single Plasma II system on my Kitfox with Lyc O-235. For
putting the 15 pin connector through the firewall, LSE recommends drilling a large
hole to put the connector through. In order to put the wires through a small
hole, one would have to remove/replace the wires from the connector or cut
splice the wires away from the connector.
I'd hate to drill that big of a hole in my firewall but am hesitant to cut re-splice.
Does someone who has installed one have any hindsight advice for me?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
high voltage wires!)
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Tinne maha wrote:
>
>I am installing LSE's single Plasma II system on my Kitfox with Lyc O-235. For
putting the 15 pin connector through the firewall, LSE recommends drilling a
large hole to put the connector through. In order to put the wires through a small
hole, one would have to remove/replace the wires from the connector or cut
splice the wires away from the connector.
>I'd hate to drill that big of a hole in my firewall but am hesitant to cut re-splice.
Does someone who has installed one have any hindsight advice for me?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
>
>I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
>drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
>good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
>shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
>you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
>high voltage wires!
Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
harness with connector installed that needs to go through
the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
install pins in new connector, route the harness through
a smaller hole.
What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
firewall?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mooney Alternator Problem |
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>dennis makielski (makhaven(at)comcast.net) on Sunday, July 13, 2003 at 03:16:05
>
>Sunday, July 13, 2003
>
>dennis makielski
>
>,
>Email: makhaven(at)comcast.net
>Comments/Questions: i have a mooney with an alternator problem. After 40
>minutes of flight, the ALT Volt annunicator light illuminates steady
>(overvoltage)
Is your airplane fitted with ov protection?
Has it ever been checked for proper operation?
>reseting the alt field cb which was not tripped does not extinguish the
>alt volt steady light.
Unless you have a crowbar ov protection system that
is designed to open the breaker on ov condition, there
is no reason to expect it to trip. If you had an
ov condition that persisted for more than a second,
there is reason to believe there are problems with the
ov protection. If you had an ov condition at all, there
are reasons to suspect the regulator is bad.
> instead, the alt volt annunicator light begins to flash
> (undervoltage) and the battery begins to discharge.
perhaps the ov protection DID operated and take
the alternator off line.
>resetting again, no results except smoke from behind the cb panel.
I'm mystified as to why you would fiddle with this
in flight.
> on landing the batt voltage on battery 1 and 2 are less than 24
> volts indicating discharge during non alternator operations.
> shutdown engine. restart engine. alternator comes on line,
> charges system at 28 volts for both batteries, but amps for
> battery #1 at 52 amps with battery # 2 at 13 amps. 10 to 13 amps normal
Sounds like the batteries are in markedly different
conditions. Suggest a capacity check for both
batteries but particularly the one that was recharging
at only 13 amps.
>had maintenance. alt field voltage checked at alternator
>at 23 volts from both batteries.
How was this measured? With the engine running?
A field voltage measurement with engine not running
only says that there is continuity between the bus
and the alternator's field terminal. This test
says nothing about regulator performance.
> voltage regualtor NOT replaced
>
>flew again wiht same resulting emergency.
>
>need ideas as to what's the problem
If it were my airplane, both batteries come out
for a capacity check. Replace if less than 50% of
new. Find out where that smoke came from. Remove
and bench test the ov protection device if
separate from regulator. Remove and bench test
regulator.
If your mechanic knows what he is doing, he
can "bench test" both functions in the
airplane using a variable DC power supply.
I am mystified by the fact that you reported
an annunciated OV condition and the regulator
was not very closely examined.
I would also install a temporary measurement
wire running from the alternator field terminal
into the cockpit. This can often be run out the
bottom of the cowl and through the door gasket.
Put a 1000 ohm resistor in series with this
wire at the alternator end.
Next time you fly, measure voltage on this
wire with respect to airframe ground. Normal
readings can be as low as 2 volts with the system
lightly loaded. It seldom goes as high as
12-15 volts with everything turned on. If the
condition you first observed repeats, you need
to note and record field voltage at the onset
of the problem. If high, like more than 15 volts,
then the regulator is either bad or something
is telling the regulator that the bus voltage
is too low irrespective of the truth of the
matter. This can be caused by intermittent
connection in a voltage sense line to the
regulator.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrison Sem" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
I am also installing a plasma III in an RV-8. After much wasting time I
drew a brief schematic, labled the wires and cut. You don't have to cut
the power and ground wires if you are going to reuse the connector.
Tomorrow Im going to see if there is a D sub compatible with the female
connectror on the box and ask Klaus what wires its ok to run in a bundle
with what. I also want to know if it is ok to substiture RG 400 for the RG
58 that comes with the l Plasma III. I know its not permissible to run the
wires from the crank sensor near the coils and the coax to the coils.
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
canopy and details
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
>
>
>
>
> >
> >I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
> >drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
> >good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
> >shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
> >you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
> >high voltage wires!
>
>
> Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
> harness with connector installed that needs to go through
> the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
> one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
> install pins in new connector, route the harness through
> a smaller hole.
>
> What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
> firewall?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Multimeter test adaptor, diodes, etc. |
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rick Fogerson
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Multimeter test adaptor
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>I need help in understanding how to make up the test adaptor, page Z6.
>
>Do you crimp or solder the "banana plugs" to one end of the 1573 plug and
>plug the other end into the 1576 receptacle, allowing you to clamp a
>multimeter to the "banana plugs".
>
>Is there a picture somewhere of this?
>
>Would radio shack know what to sell me if I ask for "banana plugs"?
Yes, they'll know. They're also shown in the Radio Shack catalog
as shown in the clip at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Banana_Plugs.jpg
The 1576/1573 pair of connectors simply provide a convenient
means for plugging a multimeter into a cockpit mounted test jack
to measure field voltage. Figure Z-23 describes the airplane
wiring. You'll need to make an extension cable with banana plugs
(or what ever mates with your multimeter) on one end and a
274-1573 plug on the other.
Alternatively, one could simply mount a pair of 274-725 banana jacks
on the panel (Item 23 down lower on the clip cited above)
and use test leads with banana plugs on both ends
to effect the connection between multimeter and the electrical
system. However one chooses to do this, it affords the troubleshooter
a vital piece of information needed to diagnose alternator system
problems BEFORE pulling the cowl.
>It's probably there but I can't find in your book the purpose of the 5A
>C.B. in the alt. field wire.
If you use a modern, crowbar ov protection system, the system
DEPENDS on a convenient means for interrupting
the field supply in case of an ov event. This is
described in terms of hardware in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bleadov.pdf
and described operationally on page 6-7 of the book.
Since it is possible to get nuisance trips of the
OV system, it's the one breaker that I would include
on the panel of my airplane even when I'm using fuse
blocks to protect the rest of the system.
>Also, does it need to be in plain view so you can see immediately if it
>trips or can I put it out of the way but still accessable by touch in-flight?
I like to put them in same row as switches. See
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Switches.pdf
>And if I haven't strained your patience too far, the Radio Shack P/N for
>the 1N4005 diode. One responded with 276-1141 and another with 276-1105
The 276-1141 is a 3A diode like those we pre-install
on the contactors which you can see at:
http://www.bandc.biz/S701-2.html
and
http://www.bandc.biz/S701-1.html
The 1A diodes would work fine here but they're
smaller and not no robust. The 3A devices are
mechanically a better choice. It would work but
is pretty fat for use on the S704 coil terminals.
The 276-1105 is as near as I can tell,
a bogus number. I plugged it into the search engine
on Radio Shack's website and it came up empty.
Refering to my Radio Shack catalog, I find
this listing:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
Here's the full range of 1A, 3A and 25A bridge
rectifier diodes suited for use in the various
applications depicted in the website articles
and pages of the 'Connection.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>mail.flyboybob.com"
>
>'Lectric Bob,
>
>I designed an alternative to the Z-14 diagram that uses diodes from the two
>battery busses to power the main and essential busses. My engine is
>supplied with a permanent magnet alternator and I added a second one for
>parts consistency. The over voltage protection disconnects the dynamo from
>the battery using a disconnect relay. A quad op amp, voltage divider and
>zener diode reference drives the disconnect relay. If the voltage regulator
>goes over voltage it is automatically disconnected and an over voltage
>disconnect light is lit on the panel. An additional voltage since circuit
>is used to monitor the essential bus voltage and drive over and under
>voltage indicator lights on the panel. If the essential bus goes under
>voltage I can shed the main bus load by opening the two circuit breaker
>switches connecting the main bus to the two battery busses. There is a
>standby essential bus switch that will connect to the battery side of the
>battery contactors so the two master switches can be closed and eliminate
>the battery contactors and their field load.
>
>There is no interconnect for starting, the starter runs off battery 2 and
>everything else including electronic ignition runs off of battery 1. After
>starting the number 2 master is switched on and both systems are online. I
>am considering Concorde RG-1207 batteries. The MEEL is:
>
> Load Amps Source
> Notes
> Light dimmer 0 -
> .700 Measured use .700 amps
> Electronic ignition 8 From Specs
> Fuel Pumps .500 From Specs
> Transponder .800 Measured
> Turn Coordinator .100 Measured
> Nav/Com .500 Measured
> Compass .200 Measured
> microMonitor .050 Measured
> Auto Pilot and Trim .500 Measured
> Prop 0 -
> 3 Measured 0 amps when not changing pitch
>
> Total 11.350
>
> Using two 10AH batteries yields:
>
> ((10AH + 10AH) * 50% ) / 11.350 Amps ) * (60 min/hr) = 53
> minutes battery
>only run time
It would be interesting to get a measured value on the ignition
system. I can't imagine what one would do with over 100 watts
of snort to keep an engine running.
>Is this realistic with dual dynamos, or should I consider larger capacity
>(and weight) batteries?
with two engine driven power sources, battery life and condition
is much less an issue as long as either source can sustain your
endurance loads indefinitely. Even if your ignition DOES take
the full 8A, it doesn't seem likely that you have a battery
size issue.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Primer? |
>
>As I was partially constructed when I came upon The Aeroelectric
>Connection Iwent along with the kit manufacturer's instructions and
>installed a traditional, plunger style (for lack of a better term) primer.
>As I already havean electric boost pumpI'm considering switching to an
>electric primer valve.
>
>What are the advantages disadvantages of and electric primer valve? The
>added safety of having one less fuel line behind the firewall is all I can
>think of. Any input will be appreciated.
More than once in my nearly lifetime interest in aviation,
I have read dark-n-stormy-night stories by pilots wherein
manually stroking the primer kept and engine delivering
power of sufficient magnitude and duration to effect a
damage-free landing after some other portion of the main
fuel delivery system failed.
I've suggested that engines fitted with a primer port
for each cylinder could benefit from a po' man's
fuel injection system as a standby fuel delivery path.
A number of years ago, (I think right after the
root cause of John Denver's accident was published)
I had some conversation with another Long Ez owner
that wanted to do a total electric fuel management
system that takes advantage of the primer system
as an alternative fuel delivery system. We
brainstormed up the drawing at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/All-Elect-Fuel.jpg
Take primer fuel from it's own strainer on the tank
you plan to exhaust last. Run through a filter, electric
shutoff valve, an electric pump, then through a needle
valve and finally to the primer tubes on the engine. Put
small quantity of fuel in tank, open shutoff, turn on pump,
run flow into measuring cup. Set needle valve for
flow equal to say 55-60% power. At this power level,
flight can be sustained at ANY mixture without
serious risk to engine.
All fuel management except firewall shutoff is
handled with panel mounted switches. No single
failure deprives the engine of fuel from at
least one tank. In flight fuel management is
crafted so that the left tank is the last
one to be drawn below 1/2.
The system gets pre-flight tested every flight
by using it to prime engine. Should primary
system become unavailable, shut off main fuel
flow. Turn on "primer" flow and adjust throttle
for smoothest running engine. You've just cheated
yourself out of the staring role in a gripping,
dark-n-stormy-night story.
Some folks have installed this system into a
more contemporary system with fuel selector valve
by teeing into the fuel line downstream of boost pump
with an electric valve.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | DC power jacks for portables in airplane/car |
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>Jim Streit (wooody04(at)bellsouth.net) on Friday, July 11, 2003 at 10:16:26
>
>Friday, July 11, 2003
>
>Jim Streit
>
>,
>Email: wooody04(at)bellsouth.net
>Comments/Questions: Bob, I have an Anywhere map and Ipaq PDA from control
>Vision and the garmin "brick" GPS. The GPS and Ipaq are powered from the
>airplane through a cigarette adapter plug. The problem is that the plug
>seems to work loose and I loose the power connection. Can you recomend
>some type of connector (both male and female) in the power cord and female
>in the plane, so thatI can plug into "connector/jack" while in the
>airplane and use the cig plug when in my car.
I have accessory power connectors in my cars that
bypass that butt-ugly cigar lighter jack. There's
no reason you can't have tight fitting, reliable
connections for DC power in both the car -AND-
the airplane.
Likely candidates are the 274-010 and 274-013
pair of connectors from Radio Shack. See
http://216.55.140.222/temp/274-010.jpg
and
http://216.55.140.222/temp/274-013.jpg
These are metal-shell parts intended originally
for microphone cable connectors. They're designed
for a bizillion mate/de-mate cycles. The plug
locks into the jack to prevent inadvertent disengagement.
The pair of connectors is about $8.50
Consider a sheet metal bracket under the dash of
your car wired to a fused source of +12V that
mounts a couple of the jacks. A similar installation
would work in your airplane as well.
These will not "work loose" . . . and are more
compact that the cigar lighter socket/plug
combination.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
Yes, Bob. Your presumption is correct. LSE supplies a pre-wired harness with a15
pin connector on one end the direct crank sensor cirquit board on the other.
The 15 pin connector hooks up to the control module which is recommended to
be installed behind the firewall. A minimum of 3 inches away from these input
wires the installer is supposed to route 2 seaparate RG58 coaxial cables thatconnect
to the 2ignition coils (assuming a 4 cylinder engine)
LSE cannot recommend cutting re-splicing/soldering the input wires to get them
through the firewall so they recommend drilling a hole just large enough to get
the bare minimum of the 15 pin connector (cover removed) through the firewall.I
could do that just find a mondo grommet that I'd have tocut a radius in
but itkinda bugs me. I think Ilike your d-sub idea but I don't know much at all
about them. Seen the pictures on the tools page but that's it. I'm pretty sure
when I say 15 pin connector it is a d-sub but I don't know for sure I certainly
don't know if they are removable but I will research that pathas soon as
time allows.
Unfortunately I'm having to work out of town for a week and wont have internet
access until Saturday the 19th. This is my last post until then but I look forward
to your response.
Thanks,
Grant
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point
I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
high voltage wires!
Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
harness with connector installed that needs to go through
the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
install pins in new connector, route the harness through
a smaller hole.
What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
firewall?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
Thanks for the input, Paul. I'm pretty sure I want to follow in your footsteps.
I'll be working out of town for a week wont be back 'till the 19th but would
like to be kept up to date on your progress and listen to any recommendations
you may have.
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
Kitfox
FW Fwd
From: "Garrison Sem" <CHASM711(at)MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:54:29 -0700
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Garrison Sem"
I am also installing a plasma III in an RV-8. After much wasting time I
drew a brief schematic, labled the wires and cut. You don't have to cut
the power and ground wires if you are going to reuse the connector.
Tomorrow Im going to see if there is a D sub compatible with the female
connectror on the box and ask Klaus what wires its ok to run in a bundle
with what. I also want to know if it is ok to substiture RG 400 for the RG
58 that comes with the l Plasma III. I know its not permissible to run the
wires from the crank sensor near the coils and the coax to the coils.
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
canopy and details
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point
I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
high voltage wires!
Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
harness with connector installed that needs to go through
the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
install pins in new connector, route the harness through
a smaller hole.
What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
firewall?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Aux Battery Management Module |
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>Bart Morgan (bartmo(at)earthlink.net) on Wednesday, July 9, 2003 at 20:29:57
>
>Wednesday, July 9, 2003
>
>Bart Morgan
>
>,
>Email: bartmo(at)earthlink.net
>Comments/Questions: Bob,
>I want to install an alternate battery in my Dragonfly. Are the AEC
>9005-101 and 201 what I need to do that.
>Best regards,
>Bart
You don't NEED the aux battery management module to install
a second battery. Simply add a contactor, battery and battery
bus along side the first battery and an aux battery master
switch on the panel. What IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED is active
notification of alternator failure. This should be a flashing
light and/or alarm tone in your headset.
If you already have the low voltage warning system then
you don't need an AEC9005-101. If you still need
the low voltage warning, then I suggest you either
acquire the AEC9005-101 or built it's equal.
If you purchase the AEC9005, then it comes with an
additional feature for automatically managing the aux
battery contactor if you wire it as shown on page 7
of the instructions. You can download a copy of
the instructions at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005-701B.pdf
Note that you will also need an S700-2-10 switch
from B&C at www.bandc.biz
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I saw the comment about being asked questions over and over and it struck me
>that it's probably true, especially because I've seen various messages asking
>questions to which I've wanted to know the answers, and which aren't answered
>directly in the Aeroelectric Connection book.
>
>Is there some way that we can feed back to you suggestions for things (often
>absurdly simple) to include in the next edition?
>
>Two examples that spring to mind are: this question below about contactor /
>relay diodes; and the recent question about where to join multiple wires on
>the same circuit (the actual question was about posn lights).
I hesitate to put much in the way of catalog information
in the book. Catalog data can be pretty fluid stuff and change
with no notice. I've been archiving a lot of conversation
on various topics on the list with the notion of editing
them into a kind of frequency asked questions publication
that would be down-loadable from the website.
You may be aware of the fact that it's MUCH easier
to put detailed photographic illustration into a web
publication than a paper publication. I'll cite posted
examples in the form of a comic book approach for Bob's
Shop Notes. For the moment, I don't see a practical
way to put this much info into the 'Connection and keep
it from becoming 2 inches thick and selling for $60 . . .
The Connection's mission is, I believe, well served with
the symbiotic combination of paper and Internet publication.
I think I posted a note earlier that the website is slated
for some major changes both to expand the coverage of simple-
I understand your suggesting and will endeavor to address
the issue in the most practical way.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
Haven't we already developed a solution to this "problem" of the big hole
for the connector & associated wires?
Isn't it the "stainless steel grab bar" used on the forward side of the
firewall over a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" round hole, then all the wires sealed with
a 3 inch or so length of firesleeve clamped onto the 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" OD of
the metal fitting (end cut off of the grab bar) on one end, and the wires
coming out of the metal fitting being wrapped with strips of firesleeve and
then clamped tightly inside the other end of the 3" length of firesleeve?
So what if there is a connector there? Run it through first, then run all
your other wires through and finish just as Bob has described and
illustrated with photos on the website.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
>
>
> Yes, Bob. Your presumption is correct. LSE supplies a pre-wired harness
with a15 pin connector on one end the direct crank sensor cirquit board on
the other. The 15 pin connector hooks up to the control module which is
recommended to be installed behind the firewall. A minimum of 3 inches away
from these input wires the installer is supposed to route 2 seaparate RG58
coaxial cables thatconnect to the 2ignition coils (assuming a 4 cylinder
engine)
>
>
> LSE cannot recommend cutting re-splicing/soldering the input wires to get
them through the firewall so they recommend drilling a hole just large
enough to get the bare minimum of the 15 pin connector (cover removed)
through the firewall.I could do that just find a mondo grommet that I'd
have tocut a radius in but itkinda bugs me. I think Ilike your d-sub idea
but I don't know much at all about them. Seen the pictures on the tools page
but that's it. I'm pretty sure when I say 15 pin connector it is a d-sub but
I don't know for sure I certainly don't know if they are removable but I
will research that pathas soon as time allows.
>
>
> Unfortunately I'm having to work out of town for a week and wont have
internet access until Saturday the 19th. This is my last post until then but
I look forward to your response.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Grant
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point
>
> I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
> drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
> good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
> shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
> you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
> high voltage wires!
>
>
> Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
> harness with connector installed that needs to go through
> the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
> one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
> install pins in new connector, route the harness through
> a smaller hole.
>
> What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
> firewall?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Routing cables around back of panel |
Hi guys,
Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and tubes
around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties and screw-down
bases for routing around the inside of the firewall, where the fuseholders
are, but I'm trying to avoid screws going through the panel.
I can weld some lugs on the blind side of the panel to support cables, but
I'd be interested to know if there's a handy way of doing it.
While I'm on the subject, what about the routing of cables from behind
instruments, radios, etc. It's only a foot or so, but what's a good way to
secure cables from the back of a radio, say, down to the panel? It seems as
though I should add some structure to support all the back-of-panel wiring
and tubing.
Thanks!
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
My feeling is "wassabigdeal?!" I'm not ABOUT to cut a 1" hole in my
firewall when I could get away with a much smaller pass-through just for the
wire. I'll be chopping my connector off.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_lightspeed_harness.jpg
That's a photo of what the 15-pin connector looks like when you take the
housing off, as it comes from LightSpeed. I don't understand why you
wouldn't just order a new crimp pin connector from Mouser (or the like) for
*less than a buck*, cut the wires off one by one and crimp on D-subs and
insert 'em into the new connector. Don't even need to label if you do it
one wire at a time. But I plan on cutting the existing connector off,
running the wire through a small pass-through (along with the bundle of
engine transducer/sensor wires, but not with the coil wires), and then
crimping on the new connector once the wire passes aft of the firewall.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_lightspeed_schematic.jpg
That's a crappy photo of the schematic that comes with the LightSpeed
system...but you've got a reference if you get stuck. I understand why
Klaus doesn't want to support myriad problems when people cut off his
connector and screw up installing a new one, but I also don't think it's
that complicated that we should consider gouging our firewalls
unnecessarily.
Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I'll wrap up the firewall forward
wiring on my RV-7, so I'll have pics on the site for reference.
By the way, the 15-pin connector housings are available from Mouser...part #
156-1415 (receptacle) or 156-1416 (plug), and the crimp pin/socket contacts
are on page 603 of the online catalog as well.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/614/603.pdf
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
>
>
> Yes, Bob. Your presumption is correct. LSE supplies a pre-wired harness
with a15 pin connector on one end the direct crank sensor cirquit board on
the other. The 15 pin connector hooks up to the control module which is
recommended to be installed behind the firewall. A minimum of 3 inches away
from these input wires the installer is supposed to route 2 seaparate RG58
coaxial cables thatconnect to the 2ignition coils (assuming a 4 cylinder
engine)
>
>
> LSE cannot recommend cutting re-splicing/soldering the input wires to get
them through the firewall so they recommend drilling a hole just large
enough to get the bare minimum of the 15 pin connector (cover removed)
through the firewall.I could do that just find a mondo grommet that I'd
have tocut a radius in but itkinda bugs me. I think Ilike your d-sub idea
but I don't know much at all about them. Seen the pictures on the tools page
but that's it. I'm pretty sure when I say 15 pin connector it is a d-sub but
I don't know for sure I certainly don't know if they are removable but I
will research that pathas soon as time allows.
>
>
> Unfortunately I'm having to work out of town for a week and wont have
internet access until Saturday the 19th. This is my last post until then but
I look forward to your response.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Grant
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point
>
> I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
> drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
> good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
> shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
> you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
> high voltage wires!
>
>
> Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
> harness with connector installed that needs to go through
> the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
> one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
> install pins in new connector, route the harness through
> a smaller hole.
>
> What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
> firewall?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
>
>My feeling is "wassabigdeal?!" I'm not ABOUT to cut a 1" hole in my
>firewall when I could get away with a much smaller pass-through just for the
>wire. I'll be chopping my connector off.
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_lightspeed_harness.jpg
yup . . . good ol' d-sub. cutoff and replacement is a piece
of cake. Go with machined pins, throw away the saddle-clamp
strain-relief and replace with silicon tape wrap sufficient
to provide very snug fit in the exit hole of the backshell
like this:
http://216.55.140.222/Catalog/avionics/760harn.jpg
Crimped on d-subs have to be the easiest connectors in the
world to work with. Wouldn't hesitate for a second to
chop one off and replace it.
Don't even need to label if you do it
>one wire at a time. But I plan on cutting the existing connector off,
>running the wire through a small pass-through (along with the bundle of
>engine transducer/sensor wires, but not with the coil wires), and then
>crimping on the new connector once the wire passes aft of the firewall.
Tell me about the "coil wires" . . . are these the infamous
coax cable leads? Why wouldn't one route these same hole?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
>
>
>Bob -
>
>I tried to import your Z-14FADEC.pdf file into my full up Acrobat v5.0
>program. It is very fuzzy and poor quality compared to your other .pdf
>files. I then saved it and tried to import it into CorelDraw to get it into
>.dxf format. This has worked very well in the past. However, when I pull up
>the .dxf file in AutoCAD 2000LT, the drawing is still fuzzy and full of
>artifacts. All of the lines and most of the text are composed of
>polylines!! This is very strange and definitely not the same quality
>translation of some of your files I've been able to obtain in the past. It
>might be a case of too much line weight control.:-))
>
>Could you post the Z-14FADEC in a dwg format on your website? Much obliged.
Okay.
http://216.55.140.222/Page_Per_System/Power_Distribution/z14_fadec.dwg
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wind driven generator for Corben Jr. ACE |
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>Lewis Hood (lewis.hood(at)us.army.mil) on Thursday, July 3, 2003 at 10:47:29
>
>Thursday, July 3, 2003
>
>Lewis Hood
>
>,
>Email: lewis.hood(at)us.army.mil
>Comments/Questions: I have built A non-electric Corben Jr. ACE. I wish to
>use Microair VHF with air driven generator (no vac drive on my eng) any
>suggestions on the generator? am willing to build same.1 amp should be
>adequate. THANKS
I've had in the back of my mind a project to see what can
be done with a bicycle generator fitted with model airplane
propeller driving a high efficiency rectifier/regulator.
There was a similar project written up in Sport Aviation
about 10-15 years ago. Don't recall details now and I'm
curious just how much energy can be extracted from such
a system with careful attention to the physics.
Have you considered an alkaline battery pack of
two 6v lantern batteries. Lots of capacity for size,
excellent shelf life. REALLY easy to put in the
airplane. I'll bet a pair of batteries would carry
your radio for a year's worth of flying.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg's Mail" <50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity stick grip wiring |
What would be the best connector to install on the leads coming out
of Infinity stick grip harness , the switches are rated at 8 amps.max.
Would the D sub connectors be heavy enough?
Thanks Greg Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitor on output of PM alternator? |
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>Derek Ferris (derekferris(at)cox.net) on Monday, July 14, 2003 at 07:42:06
>
>Monday, July 14, 2003
>
>Derek Ferris
>
>,
>Email: derekferris(at)cox.net
>Comments/Questions: Bob:
>What is the ideal rating (capacitance & voltage) for the computer-grade
>filter capacitor, used with the Rotax 912 18A alternator?
>I have seen various ratings in drawings - 20,000, 22,000, 47,000, 16V, 25V
>- and so on.
>Mallory who makes these capacitors does not offer all of these ratings.
>Lastly, is the capacitor really necessary or highly advisable?
Any capacitor 20,000 uF or more, 16V or more will be a
great asset to the reduction of rectified AC ripple
that comes from any rectifier/regulator for a PM
alternator. I would go for a 47 KuF and plan to
replace it every three or four years.
>One home-builder told me he saw no difference in his radio noise with or
>without the capacitor.
Then HIS radio noise is coming from another antagonist.
Elimination of the capacitor does not mean you WILL have
noise nor does inclusion of the capacitor mean you WILL
NOT have noise. It's simply one of many things we do
to improve the overall performance of the system.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity stick grip wiring |
><50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
>
>What would be the best connector to install on the leads coming out
>of Infinity stick grip harness , the switches are rated at 8 amps.max.
>Would the D sub connectors be heavy enough?
>Thanks Greg Davis
That's what I would use . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
> Tell me about the "coil wires" . . . are these the infamous
> coax cable leads? Why wouldn't one route these same hole?
Yep, they're the two coax leads going from the brain box to the coils' two
fast-ons each.
From the LSE installation manual online:
"Route the RG58 coax cables to the ignition coils. Avoid their exposure to
heat from cylinder heads or exhaust systems. The primary ignition coil
wires running from the Plasma CD Ignition module to the ignition coils can
be routed together, however they should be kept separate from the ignition
system input wires (harness)."
Plenty of specificity in "kept separate," huh? 8-) I recall somebody else
posting a 3" suggested separation.
In my case, the installation takes care of separation. I have the direct
crank sensor, so my "input wire harness" will run beneath the cylinders,
secured to the case via adel clamps, then up along the engine mount and in
through the sensor wire pass-through.
My coil wires will go pretty much directly from the brain box, which I've
installed centered in front of the pilot about 4" behind the firewall,
straight across the top of the mount and case to the coils (exact coil
location TBD...discussing that on the lycoming/rv-lists as we speak). So
the separation of coil leads and the crank sensor harness is sort of "built
in."
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity stick grip wiring |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Some folks have used the mini connectors from model airplane shops. As I
recall, they used 22 awg and it worked OK.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <bob(at)flyboybob.com> |
| Subject: | Essential Bus Diode Wiring |
'Lectric Bob,
On page Z-9 of The AeroElectric Connection, Figure Z-11 shows the full wave
bridge rectifier being used to power the essential bus from the main bus.
Why did you not connect the input side to both AC terminals? From the
schematic it appears that this will give you twice the diode capacity.
Wouldn't it be better to use two diodes at half the power each to get the
same DC+ output result?
Regards,
Bob Lee
______________________________
N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
>
> > Tell me about the "coil wires" . . . are these the infamous
> > coax cable leads? Why wouldn't one route these same hole?
>
>Yep, they're the two coax leads going from the brain box to the coils' two
>fast-ons each.
>
> From the LSE installation manual online:
>
>"Route the RG58 coax cables to the ignition coils. Avoid their exposure to
>heat from cylinder heads or exhaust systems. The primary ignition coil
>wires running from the Plasma CD Ignition module to the ignition coils can
>be routed together, however they should be kept separate from the ignition
>system input wires (harness)."
I can deduce no good reason for extra-ordinary separation
efforts. This wire SHOULD be a shielded, twisted pair fabricated
from modern, high temperature insulation. But even with the
low temperature coax, there's no reason in physics to suspect
these wires as possible antagonists. For every electron going
out on center conductor, there is a companion electron coming back
on the shield - net magnetic field is zero. Shielding takes care
of any potential electro-static coupling.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wind driven generator for Corben Jr. ACE |
> >Comments/Questions: I have built A non-electric Corben Jr. ACE. I wish to
> >use Microair VHF with air driven generator (no vac drive on my eng) any
> >suggestions on the generator? am willing to build same.1 amp should be
> >adequate. THANKS
>
> I've had in the back of my mind a project to see what can
> be done with a bicycle generator fitted with model airplane
> propeller driving a high efficiency rectifier/regulator.
>
We are using in our L-4, non electric a small accumulator and a solarpanel
about 10 by 20 inches, works out very well with a small becker radio.
Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
A little empiracle data below...
snip
>> cable leads? Why wouldn't one route these same hole?
>>
>>Yep, they're the two coax leads going from the brain box to the coils'
>> two fast-ons each.
>>
>> From the LSE installation manual online:
>>
>>"Route the RG58 coax cables to the ignition coils. Avoid their
>> exposure to heat from cylinder heads or exhaust systems. The primary
>> ignition coil wires running from the Plasma CD Ignition module to the
>> ignition coils can be routed together, however they should be kept
>> separate from the ignition system input wires (harness)."
>
> I can deduce no good reason for extra-ordinary separation
> efforts. This wire SHOULD be a shielded, twisted pair fabricated
> from modern, high temperature insulation. But even with the
> low temperature coax, there's no reason in physics to suspect
> these wires as possible antagonists. For every electron going
> out on center conductor, there is a companion electron coming back
> on the shield - net magnetic field is zero. Shielding takes care of
> any potential electro-static coupling.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
I actually didn't even use shielded wire for either the wires to
the coil, nor the ones from the crank triggers. I did twist the
pair of wires leading to each device from the brain box (though I
am not positive that is even required/beneficial - think it is for
the sensors, as the input probably has good common mode rejection).
All of the wires are bundled together for about 2 feet from the
engine end of the motor mount, through the firewall to the LSE box.
No evidence of malfunction, misfire, or other noise issues. It
might be fun to scope them sometime, however.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Dave,
I used a LM-317T voltage regulator to provide ship's power to my DRE
headsets. I talked with the DRE tech support and they suggested this
approach. It works very well. I have had no problems with noise or headset
damage.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, 215 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave von Linsowe [mailto:davevon(at)tir.com]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
Bob,
What are your thoughts on how clean the power source for ANR headsets need
to be? If I build a LM-317 voltage regulator and it's not good enough,
could I damage the ANR circuitry? How will the ANR respond if the input is
not clean enough?
I've got the Headset Inc. ANR setup in a Peltor 7005 and it really works
great! I'm also using their auto shut off battery box, which I'm sure has
saved me a couple of batteries already. The problem is that the battery box
lays on the floor in front of the spar (RV-6) out of sight and out of mind.
The headset plugs are down under the panel (I didn't put them there). I'll
forget to turn it on before I'm strapped in and can't reach the box and/or
forget to turn it off when I hop out. (I know, could be a check list item,
but I think something like this should be transparent)
I'm going to upgrade my copilot's (wife) headset soon and just wanted to get
a handle on this.
Not affiliated with Headsets Inc. in any way, just like the way it works.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
The Silver Turtle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
> Thanks John,
>
> I was wondering about the LM-317 being a clean enough power source. My
main
> reason for wanting to go with the aircraft power system is to eliminate
the
> need to turn the ANR on and off separate from everything else.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KITFOXZ(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:22:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > davevon(at)tir.com writes:
> >
> > > Active noise reduction systems require a very stable and clean power
> > > supply. Our panel-mount power supply has 2 voltage regulators, a DC-DC
> converter
> > > for isolation, and an in-line 1/4 amp fuse.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > The ANR headset manufacturer's statement is true to get the best
> performance
> > possible. A DC-DC converter is considerable more parts count than just
an
> > LM-317 and voltage divider resistors. They are building or selling a
> power
> > supply that truly isolates input and supplied output voltages.
> >
> > If cheap is what you want, see how many 9 V batteries you can buy for
$80.
> > ...A stand alone battery is the best isolation possible...You could
attach
> a
> > small charging circuit to your ship's power cheaply that could keep a
9.6
> V
> > NiCad battery pack alive and switch it out of the circuit manually, etc.
> >
> > John P. Marzluf
> > Columbus, Ohio
> > Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic MAP control |
As I mentioned in my original post, I was suspicious of the electric
supercharger. What I was really trying to ask was, "Is anyone utilizing an
electronic control for engine boost-either turbocharger/wastegate or other?"
Sorry that my question lead everyone off in the wrong direction.
The discussion of the Aerosance FADEC system has been interesting. Is
anyone working on a similar homerolled system?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Essential Bus Diode Wiring |
>mail.flyboybob.com"
>
>'Lectric Bob,
>
>On page Z-9 of The AeroElectric Connection, Figure Z-11 shows the full wave
>bridge rectifier being used to power the essential bus from the main bus.
>
>Why did you not connect the input side to both AC terminals? From the
>schematic it appears that this will give you twice the diode capacity.
>Wouldn't it be better to use two diodes at half the power each to get the
>same DC+ output result?
Diodes generally don't parallel well. I.e., if you're EXPECTING
to get twice the current capability by paralleling two diodes,
it doesn't work. Now, since a major goal of configuring the
elegant endurance bus is to MINIMIZE loads on battery while
conducting en route flight operations, then we're never
expecting to push the nominally 25A rated diodes toward their
limits. In this case, paralleling two diodes MIGHT have a
very slight effect on reducing forward voltage drop . . . perhaps
0.1 volts or so.
The short answer to you question is that it wouldn't hurt
anything but it wont be a big help either.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>
>
>Dave,
>
>I used a LM-317T voltage regulator to provide ship's power to my DRE
>headsets. I talked with the DRE tech support and they suggested this
>approach. It works very well. I have had no problems with noise or headset
>damage.
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6, 215 hours
Thanks for that useful data point Ken . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
For the real experimental types who want a bargain. The US government is auctioning 60-120 kw gas turbine power plants, also smaller Teledyne and Rotax engines on http://www.govliquidation.com/ Whether they are usable or not depends on how resourceful you are. They seem to be VERY low time powerplants. It might be worth a look.
Some government stuff is just a large box of stuff. The bid description says "Stuff
in large box". Often these are real deals. One "large shipping crate A/C
parts" some years ago went for $500 and it turned out to be an F104B.
Eric M. Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power supply |
Thanks to everyone for taking the time to come up with an inexpensive
(cheap) power supply for my ANR headsets. At the price of these, I can
build up a few of each, test them and have some for my buddies!
This list is great!
Thanks,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: power supply
>
> >
> >
> >
> >Dave,
> >
> >I used a LM-317T voltage regulator to provide ship's power to my DRE
> >headsets. I talked with the DRE tech support and they suggested this
> >approach. It works very well. I have had no problems with noise or
headset
> >damage.
> >
> >Ken Harrill
> >RV-6, 215 hours
>
> Thanks for that useful data point Ken . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
Hi Bob and all,
Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
airplane.
My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might not
do.
Here is my question :
What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
price ?
Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
Thanks for your advice,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | OV protection on internally regulated alternators |
>July 14, 2003
>
>Dear MR. Muckolls,
>My name is John Chandler and I need information and advice on OV >protection.
I'm building an RV 7 with an IO 360. I have a Lightweight >Nippo Alternator my
engine builder supplied. It has a built in regulator >that I would not like to
remove. This alternator is intended to be used >on an aircraft. I have your
book, and after reading about OV protection, >I'm confused. It looks like on OV,
the field gets pull to ground >tripping the field circuit breaker. If that
is the case, why do you also >open up the B + line? Is that not redundant?
The small wire going into the rear of an alternator with
built in regulator is NOT the field supply wire. It's a
CONTROL wire to an integrated circuit within the regulator.
Further, on some alternators, this control wire is just to
DELAY onset of alternator activity until after the engine
is started and the electronic fuel control system thinks it's
okay to add load to the engine . . . once turned ON by this
wire, it cannot be turned OFF except by stopping the engine.
Last, there are failure modes within such alternators that
completely bypass the control function to produce a runaway
condition capable of 100 volts or more output from your
alternator.
> If just pulling the field >to ground is all I need, what do you recommend, and
do you sale the OV >protector?
I designed the OVM-14 crowbar ov protection module
and used to sell it from my website. The parts and
materials business exploded on me and became a third
full time job. I transferred that activity to
B&C at http://www.bandc.biz a few years ago. You
can get the OVM-14 ov module and the companion
S701-1 continuous duty contactor from them if you
so choose. There is also an article on my website
at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
that explains how to do your own.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator wiring |
>
>Comments/Questions: Bob, I purchased an overvoltage control a ouple years
>ago. Been layed up and am now getting plane going again. have misplaced
>the info on kit, looked on website, couldn't find. It worked before( I
>disassembled to paint) but I have no wiring diagram to find out how to run
>proper wires to 3 pronged receptacle on reear of alternator. I have the
>batt wire ok but I have another wire with jumper to hook to two terminals.
Which alternator do you have?
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frequent flyer <jdhcv(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi, I hav3e never posted to this very valuable list
but I lurk a lot and I need 18 of the Molex pins for
my AT-50A Narco transponder. Maybe we could get enough
people that need pins to get an order together.
Jack
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and tubes
>around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties and screw-down
>bases for routing around the inside of the firewall, where the fuseholders
>are, but I'm trying to avoid screws going through the panel.
>
>I can weld some lugs on the blind side of the panel to support cables, but
>I'd be interested to know if there's a handy way of doing it.
>
>While I'm on the subject, what about the routing of cables from behind
>instruments, radios, etc. It's only a foot or so, but what's a good way to
>secure cables from the back of a radio, say, down to the panel? It seems as
>though I should add some structure to support all the back-of-panel wiring
>and tubing.
There are a number of products offered as self-sticking
mounting points for tie wraps. Depending on who's adhesive
is supplied and how old it is, the self sticking
feature can have a problematical service life.
However, if you purchase the screw-mount versions -OR-
strip the adhesive pad off the back, you can mount these
to a clean aluminum surface with a good epoxy like
JB Weld. If you need a standoff mounting that does not
penetrate the panel, consider mounting a threaded spacer
on a 1" square piece of aluminum using flathead screw, then
bond aluminum base to back side of instrument panel.
I've also used JB Weld to attach aluminum L-brackets to
the back of a panel to provide mounting surface for
wire bundle clamps, small accessory items, etc.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
A Nuckoll's online FAQ is a superb idea!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
There is a FAQ. It is called 'The AeroElectric Connection' and it can be
purchased from Bob himself or the Builders Bookstore.
www.aeroelectric.com
http://www.buildersbooks.com/aeroelectric_connection.htm?38,57
I do electrical designs for a living and I learned a LOT from this book. If
you are planning to wire your own airplane then you MUST buy this book. At
$31 it is a wash compared to all the grief that you will save.
Besides, Bob spends a bunch of time on this list answering our questions and
asks nothing in return. Go buy the book.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Common questions
>
> A Nuckoll's online FAQ is a superb idea!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Master Bus Wire Size |
Howdy all,
I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution diagram
to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I have
two questions...
One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the battery
contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
to.
Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ted scott" <teds532(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Flap motor wireing |
I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part #05-66223
and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get the three positions
on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank you,Ted.Kis Cruiser
builder. teds532(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
:
Envoy : mardi 15 juillet 2003 14:42
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
> airplane.
> My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
> But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
> machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
not
> do.
>
> Here is my question :
> What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
> price ?
> Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
> I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
>
> Thanks for your advice,
>
> Gilles
>
After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder those
minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
Any opinions ?
Thanks,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a month ago with
the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally wired it
up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS, not even
using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and index finger.
The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't possibly have
put that much torque on the thing.
The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I couldn't get the
nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always think of
B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
Gilles.Thesee wrote:
>
>
>----- Message d'origine -----
>De : "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> :
>Envoy : mardi 15 juillet 2003 14:42
>Objet : AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>>Hi Bob and all,
>>
>>Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
>>airplane.
>>My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
>>But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
>>machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
>>
>>
>not
>
>
>>do.
>>
>>Here is my question :
>>What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
>>price ?
>>Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
>>I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
>>
>>Thanks for your advice,
>>
>>Gilles
>>
>>
>>
>
>After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder those
>minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
>So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
>Any opinions ?
>
>Thanks,
>Gilles
>
As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
just fine.
Charlie
Electronics Tech in another life
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
>
>I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a month ago with
>the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally wired it
>up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
>
>I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS, not even
>using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and index finger.
>The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't possibly have
>put that much torque on the thing.
>
>The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
>though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I couldn't get the
>nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
>
>I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always think of
>B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
Unless they've changed suppliers from what I originally
stocked for this part, the manufacturer was Grayhill . . .
an old line, respected supplier to the industry.
See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/39_Series.pdf
I sold several dozen of those switches before B&C took over
the activity and I've personally used perhaps a dozen more
in personal projects over the past 20+ years. Unless
we can find some evidence to the contrary, I'd like to
believe your experience was an isolated incident borne
of a batch QA problem.
I note from the spec sheet cited above that rated installation
torque for the part is 2-in lbs, not really hefty but
it is, after all, a rather petite part. I would expect
the mounting bushing to be good for at least twice that
before failure.
Given the difficulty you had removing the carcass,
there would probably be no value in having you send
me the failed part. I'll ask B&C to pull a couple from
stock and send them down to me for examination and
testing. I'm certain they'll be pleased to replace
the one that broke for you . . . but let's wait
until we gage the condition of other switches in stock.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
>
>
>Howdy all,
>
>I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution diagram
>to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I have
>two questions...
>
>One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
>noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the battery
>contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
>wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
>away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
>alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
>to.
The main bus feeder is sized for alternator load. Since the
rest of the airplane's fat wires are 4AWG, you've probably
already got enough left over to do the main bus feed with
4AWG too . . . which would be fine.
To drive a 60A bus, you can downsize to 6AWG. 8AWG would
be fine for a 40A system . . . unless you're going to add
electric toe warmers, I cannot imagine that you'd ever need
a 60A machine.
The drawing looks fine.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
I'm glad I'm not the only one. Same thing on a Piper Archer a few months ago,
for me!
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 5:23 am
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
> I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a
> month ago with
> the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally
> wired it
> up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
>
> I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS,
> not even
> using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and
> index finger.
> The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't
> possibly have
> put that much torque on the thing.
>
> The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I
> couldn't get the
> nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
>
> I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always
> think of
> B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
> >After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try
> and solder
> >those minute gold contacts onto the wires ? So all I'll need is and
> >insertion tool. Any opinions ?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gilles
> >
> As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
> just fine.
>
> Charlie
> Electronics Tech in another life
Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
slowly, if you don't remove it. Get a temperature controlled soldering
iron and very fine rosin core solder, practice a little and you'll be
fine. Also get an eye loupe or some sort of magnifier for inspection.
As far as an insertion tool, none is needed. Just need it to remove a
pin from the connector.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 323 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi Bob and all,
>
>Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
>airplane.
>My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
>But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
>machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might not
>do.
I've used the B&C crimper on the hi-density d-sub pins
with great success.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Charlie & Tupper England"
:
Envoy : mercredi 16 juillet 2003 03:37
Objet : Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
> >
> >After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder
those
> >minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
> >So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
> >Any opinions ?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gilles
> >
> As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
> just fine.
>
> Charlie
> Electronics Tech in another life
Charlie,
Thank you for responding.
Am I right in supposing that proper technique means pre tinning the parts,
using not too much solder, etc..?
Thanks,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor wireing |
>
>I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part
>#05-66223 and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get the
>three positions on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank
>you,Ted.Kis Cruiser builder. teds532(at)bellsouth.net
I presume you're interested in having the
flaps automatically drive to and stop at
some position intermediate to full up or
full down. Be aware that such systems may
have failure modes that can cause unexpected,
uncommanded flap motion.
Do you plan to have a flap position
indicator? Unless the airplane has
VERY powerful flaps like the early
"barn door" flaps on high wing Cessnas,
I think you'll find that you can control
flaps with the simple spring-loaded, center
off switch without even looking at the
flap indicator.
Configuring automatic controls with
safeguards adds a degree of complexity
that may not be good value in terms
of overall flap system reliability.
Is this feature a matter of consensus
among Kis owners as to need or just a neat,
gee-whiz?
Kirk Hammersmith and I tossed around the
notion of a similar system for Lancairs
at the factory . . . after some thought,
I suggested that we not mess up what
has proven to be a perfectly good working
system.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
:
Envoy : mercredi 16 juillet 2003 04:40
Objet : Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
> >But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
> >machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
not
> >do.
>
> I've used the B&C crimper on the hi-density d-sub pins
> with great success.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
Good news.
Thanks a lot,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ted scott" <teds532(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor wireing |
Thanks ,Bob. Do you have a book on electrical systems that I could buy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Flap motor wireing
>
> >
> >I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part
> >#05-66223 and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get
the
> >three positions on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank
> >you,Ted.Kis Cruiser builder. teds532(at)bellsouth.net
>
> I presume you're interested in having the
> flaps automatically drive to and stop at
> some position intermediate to full up or
> full down. Be aware that such systems may
> have failure modes that can cause unexpected,
> uncommanded flap motion.
>
> Do you plan to have a flap position
> indicator? Unless the airplane has
> VERY powerful flaps like the early
> "barn door" flaps on high wing Cessnas,
> I think you'll find that you can control
> flaps with the simple spring-loaded, center
> off switch without even looking at the
> flap indicator.
>
> Configuring automatic controls with
> safeguards adds a degree of complexity
> that may not be good value in terms
> of overall flap system reliability.
>
> Is this feature a matter of consensus
> among Kis owners as to need or just a neat,
> gee-whiz?
>
> Kirk Hammersmith and I tossed around the
> notion of a similar system for Lancairs
> at the factory . . . after some thought,
> I suggested that we not mess up what
> has proven to be a perfectly good working
> system.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
Alex,
This is a lot of info.
> Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
> soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
> temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
> slowly, if you don't remove it.
Hey, I didn't know that.
Get a temperature controlled soldering
> iron and very fine rosin core solder, practice a little and you'll be
> fine. Also get an eye loupe or some sort of magnifier for inspection.
>
You're right, I'll order one tomorrow.
> As far as an insertion tool, none is needed. Just need it to remove a
> pin from the connector.
July 07, 2003 - July 15, 2003
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ce