AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-hp
January 29, 2008 - February 13, 2008
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160931#160931
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Z Diagram Questions |
Hello,
I'm an RV10 builder with a bunch of questions regarding the Z diagrams. Sidebar:
I really appreciate the obvious amount of work required to put these together.
I'd hate to think how much time and $$ would be wasted rolling my own electrical
system without leveraging this resource.
Cheers,
Jay
* I have in mind using two 17AH batteries to be mounted in the battery mount back
behind the baggage compartment. What's connected from here is up for grabs.
* The current plan is to use one electronic ignition and one traditional mag with
glass panel (and a few steam gauge backups). Others have done this successfully,
so this shouldn't be breaking too much new ground. I believe my choices
are pointing to using either Z-14 (Dual Battery/Alternator/Split Bus) or Z-19RB
(Dual Battery/Single Alt/Rear Batt).
* Z-14 is obviously way more expensive, has more moving parts and appears to be
overkill. However, the Z-19RB (5/4/07) has shows 5 engine/dc power switches as
compared to 3 required for Z-14. In addition, Z-19RB appears to use an obsolete/unavailable
part (ack!) AEC9005-101 low voltage module. I found another Z-19
cousin while pawing around called FOLDOUT4.DWG. This one uses the LR-3 and
appears to be a bit more simple compared to the Z-19RB. Is Z-19RB "dated"?
Q1: Z-14 diagram (rev 5/9/06) strangeness... Both AUX & Main contactors are shown
with 4AWG in and out of the primary terminals. Strangely, the Crossfeed contactor
has 2AWG out (to Main Batt Contactor) which then uses 4AWG going forward
to the Starter contactor. 2AWG is shown from Starter contactor to Starter.
>>> It seems like 2AWG should be used consistently (without mixing 4AWG in series)
to carry high current loads forward? The REAR Battery contactors are close
to batteries, but the Crossfeed
contactor is ~15 feet away on the engine side of the firewall close to
the Starter contactor. Was Z-14 orginally created assuming forward battery placement?
Q2: General ALT fuse question: What's the rationale behind how to size ANL fuses
(maybe max amps - 10 or something)? The fuse protects the wire, right? So are
we assuming the purpose of ANL is to protect against possible runaway ALT operation?
Under what conditions might this scenario occur? Are ANL slow blow fuses?
If so, why would one use those in general? Note 10 didn't go into enough
detail for inquiring minds.
Q3: Some Z diagrams show the LR-3 ALT Controller "Volts Warn" light with a push-to-test
switch. I would think the lamp would light whenever batt power is applied
to the LR-3, but the ALT is not yet running. Is PTT really necessary (it's
yet another switch)?
Q4: A number of Z diagrams show an inline current sensing resistor (w/ voltage
output). Are builders exposing voltmeters on their panel, plumbing volts to EFIS
display or something else? I haven't seen lots of panels with voltmeters hanging
off them except in spam cans... Knowing current state is obviously a great
indicator of ALT health.
Q5: What's your opinion on solid state (i.e. MOSFET) contactors? Are they ready for prime time? Aircraft Spruce lists one on their website, but no pricing is shown (I smell problems). How long should steam guage contactors last under normal operation? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php
Q6: Why do B&C alternators all use external regulators? Are there safety and/or
MTBF factors to consider as opposed to internally regulated units? The external
LR-3 really add to the total $$.
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
From: | "rvtach" <rvtach(at)msn.com> |
david.nelson(at)pobox.com wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> Clever idea. I presume it's brass so it's corrosion resistant even though
> you drilled out the threads.
>
>
[/quote]
Yup. It is solid brass. Any opinions if brass is adequate fire protection in this
application?
> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are too
> close to high current (fat) wires.
> Dale Ensing
>
Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus feed lines
through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No really fat wires
(like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough current here for me to
need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires separate?
Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make 2 more penetrations
then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
Thanks,
--------
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Finishing Kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161114#161114
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | B&C alternator 30Amps |
From: | "kakydanou" <daniel.gallaz(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello,
I've ordered a B&C alternator 433H 30amps for my engine, a C90-14F. They just keep
pushing the shipping date month after month and I'm getting tired of waiting.
1 Does someone already have installed this unit? If yes, is it worth the wait?
2 what other alternative do I have? Needed output is around 30amps max?
Thank you for your help,
Daniel
Zurich, Switzerland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161117#161117
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Scott" <gregory.scott1(at)virgin.net> |
Subject: | Re: B&C alternator 30Amps |
Daniel,
Try a Nippon Denso 35amp auto alternator. You will need an external
regulator and best if you have over voltage protection. B and C do a
reg/over volt combination, I think it is an LR3 C but check their site.
Greg Scott
U.K.
PS
Have such an alternator on my RV4 for 500 plus hours, good as gold. Bought
mine from Van's Aircraft but you could get one from an auto dealer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kakydanou" <daniel.gallaz(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:44 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: B&C alternator 30Amps
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I've ordered a B&C alternator 433H 30amps for my engine, a C90-14F. They
> just keep pushing the shipping date month after month and I'm getting
> tired of waiting.
> 1 Does someone already have installed this unit? If yes, is it worth the
> wait?
> 2 what other alternative do I have? Needed output is around 30amps max?
> Thank you for your help,
>
> Daniel
> Zurich, Switzerland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161117#161117
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: B&C alternator 30Amps |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
433H doesn't look like one of the B&C part numbers. Maybe a reseller's
number? I don't see a 30A alternator for a Continental on there. They
have a 12A unit listed here:
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?17X358218
One complication about using an automotive alternator (ND) on a
Continental is that many (all?) of their small engines don't have a belt
driven alternator; they're mostly gear driven. One could design a belt
drive for one of these engines (making it like the accessory case driven
big bore Continentals). Or one could add a pulley to the crank end - I've
seen that on some engines.
Regards,
Matt-
>
>
> Daniel,
> Try a Nippon Denso 35amp auto alternator. You will need an external
> regulator and best if you have over voltage protection. B and C do a
> reg/over volt combination, I think it is an LR3 C but check their site.
> Greg Scott
> U.K.
> PS
> Have such an alternator on my RV4 for 500 plus hours, good as gold.
> Bought
> mine from Van's Aircraft but you could get one from an auto dealer.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kakydanou" <daniel.gallaz(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:44 PM
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: B&C alternator 30Amps
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I've ordered a B&C alternator 433H 30amps for my engine, a C90-14F. They
>> just keep pushing the shipping date month after month and I'm getting
>> tired of waiting.
>> 1 Does someone already have installed this unit? If yes, is it worth
>> the
>> wait?
>> 2 what other alternative do I have? Needed output is around 30amps
>> max?
>> Thank you for your help,
>>
>> Daniel
>> Zurich, Switzerland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161117#161117
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins(at)MCHSI.COM> |
Subject: | Re: B&C alternator 30Amp |
Are you sure you need 30 amps? I would think most day VFR C-90s could get
by fine with the B&C 200G. That's what I used for the last 20 years in my
Q-200.
Sam
Murphysboro, IL
On Jan 29, 2008 11:44 AM, kakydanou wrote:
> daniel.gallaz(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> I've ordered a B&C alternator 433H 30amps for my engine, a C90-14F. They
> just keep pushing the shipping date month after month and I'm getting tir
ed
> of waiting.
> 1=B0 Does someone already have installed this unit? If yes, is it worth t
he
> wait?
> 2=B0 what other alternative do I have? Needed output is around 30amps max
?
> Thank you for your help,
>
> Daniel
> Zurich, Switzerland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161117#161117
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000 |
Anyone know what battery Dynon uses for (internal)backup power? Make model
size etc? If you get one from the factory they cost an arm and a leg
($125.00) and I know they must be available from my local battery mart for a
LOT less.
Same question on the internal battery for a legacy (monochrome LCD screen)
VM-1000 DPU? I haven't opened the DPU but since all the battery in there
does is hold up the memory I suspect it's a button cell like those in a PC.
Since this model of VM-1000 is now orphaned it would be nice to find
alternate source for the internal battery. Thanks.
Dean
RV-6A N197DM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
>Hello,
>
>I'm an RV10 builder with a bunch of questions regarding the Z diagrams.
>Sidebar: I really appreciate the obvious amount of work required to put
>these together. I'd hate to think how much time and $$ would be wasted
>rolling my own electrical system without leveraging this resource.
>
>Cheers,
>Jay
>
>* I have in mind using two 17AH batteries to be mounted in the battery
>mount back behind the baggage compartment. What's connected from here is
>up for grabs.
Why two?
>* The current plan is to use one electronic ignition and one traditional
>mag with glass panel (and a few steam gauge backups). Others have done
>this successfully, so this shouldn't be breaking too much new ground. I
>believe my choices are pointing to using either Z-14 (Dual
>Battery/Alternator/Split Bus) or Z-19RB (Dual Battery/Single Alt/Rear Batt).
>
>* Z-14 is obviously way more expensive, has more moving parts and appears
>to be overkill. However, the Z-19RB (5/4/07) has shows 5 engine/dc power
>switches as compared to 3 required for Z-14. In addition, Z-19RB appears
>to use an obsolete/unavailable part (ack!) AEC9005-101 low voltage module.
>I found another Z-19 cousin while pawing around called FOLDOUT4.DWG. This
>one uses the LR-3 and appears to be a bit more simple compared to the
>Z-19RB. Is Z-19RB "dated"?
First, consider Z-13/8 with one battery and tell us how
it falls short of a perceived requirement. If you're
planning any form of non-traditional aircraft ignition,
consider a p-mag.
>Q1: Z-14 diagram (rev 5/9/06) strangeness... Both AUX & Main contactors
>are shown with 4AWG in and out of the primary terminals. Strangely, the
>Crossfeed contactor has 2AWG out (to Main Batt Contactor) which then uses
>4AWG going forward to the Starter contactor. 2AWG is shown from Starter
>contactor to Starter.
Z-14 is not appropriate for 99% of the OBAM projects
under construction . . .
>Q2: General ALT fuse question: What's the rationale behind how to size ANL
>fuses (maybe max amps - 10 or something)? The fuse protects the wire,
>right? So are we assuming the purpose of ANL is to protect against
>possible runaway ALT operation? Under what conditions might this scenario
>occur? Are ANL slow blow fuses? If so, why would one use those in general?
>Note 10 didn't go into enough detail for inquiring minds.
Fuses protect wires only and have no value in
mitigating a runaway alternator condition. A runaway
alternator is generally incapable of opening the
b-lead protection under any conditions.
>Q3: Some Z diagrams show the LR-3 ALT Controller "Volts Warn" light with a
>push-to-test switch. I would think the lamp would light whenever batt
>power is applied to the LR-3, but the ALT is not yet running. Is PTT
>really necessary (it's yet another switch)?
>
>Q4: A number of Z diagrams show an inline current sensing resistor (w/
>voltage output). Are builders exposing voltmeters on their panel, plumbing
>volts to EFIS display or something else? I haven't seen lots of panels
>with voltmeters hanging off them except in spam cans... Knowing current
>state is obviously a great indicator of ALT health.
Only if you know how to interpret what it
displays. See chapter on instrumentation.
>Q5: What's your opinion on solid state (i.e. MOSFET) contactors? Are they
>ready for prime time? Aircraft Spruce lists one on their website, but no
>pricing is shown (I smell problems). How long should steam guage
>contactors last under normal operation?
><http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/superSwitch.php
>
Don't know how to answer this. I've ssen them last
20 years with no problems and I have some rental
airplanes that got replacements in less than 5 years.
The best answer is that return on investment for these
devices is good. A failure tolerant architecture
makes contactor failure a cost of ownership issue
and not a flight safety issue. That's what I would
use if I were building.
There are no mosfet contactors suited for both
loading and charging a battery . . . mosfet
devices are decidedly one-way streets.
>Q6: Why do B&C alternators all use external regulators? Are there safety
>and/or MTBF factors to consider as opposed to internally regulated units?
>The external LR-3 really add to the total $$.
This is discussed at length in the archives, on
the website articles and chapters in the 'Connection.
At present, there is no practical way to make an
internally regulated alternator function in
the same manner as externally regulated machines
have and still to perform in aircraft. I'm working
on it but my 20-hour a week consulting task has
morphed into another career! See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Adapting_IR_Alternators_to_Aircraft.pdf
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Note 8 in App_ ZR11 M |
Bob, Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'll just have to remember to check
continuity of the field wire from the regulator to the alternator first, but
this means one less wire attached to that big shaky thing to break too.
Marty . . .
Subject: Re: Note 8 in App_ ZR11 M
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III (nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net)
Date: Tue Jan 29 - 4:29 AM
>
>Bob,
>Instead of running the test lead from the alternator, can one run the lead
>from terminal #4 of the LR3C-14?
Sure . . . you're looking for a voltage measurement
on that lead. The only advantage of moving out on the
lead is to include an ability to sense broken circuits
further downstream.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Z Diagram Questions |
* I have in mind using two 17AH batteries to be mounted in the battery
mount back behind the baggage compartment. What's connected from here is
up for grabs.
Why two?
>>> Assumming dead alternator... The goal is for battery (or batteries) to provide
adequate power to avionics & ignition system to safely complete flight. Hopefully,
the total available amp-hour capacity exceeds available fuel supply.
The notion is that two batteries provide redundancy if one proves incapable of
providing adequate performance. Rotating one out at each annual reduces dud factor.
* Z-14 is obviously way more expensive, has more moving parts and appears
to be overkill. However, the Z-19RB (5/4/07) has shows 5 engine/dc power switches
as compared to 3 required for Z-14. In addition, Z-19RB appears
to use an obsolete/unavailable part (ack!) AEC9005-101 low voltage module.
I found another Z-19 cousin while pawing around called FOLDOUT4.DWG. This one uses
the LR-3 and appears to be a bit more simple compared to the
Z-19RB. Is Z-19RB "dated"?
First, consider Z-13/8 with one battery and tell us how
it falls short of a perceived requirement. If you're planning any form of non-traditional
aircraft ignition,
consider a p-mag.
>>> Z-13 is an attractive setup. However, my understanding is that p-mag devices
aren't available for 6 cylinder (e.g. Lycoming 540) engines. I thought they
were only used on 4 cylinder ones. Therefore, I have not considered Z-13 as a
viable option. Z19RB still seems to fit.
Q1: Z-14 diagram (rev 5/9/06) strangeness... Both AUX & Main contactors
are shown with 4AWG in and out of the primary terminals. Strangely, the
Crossfeed contactor has 2AWG out (to Main Batt Contactor) which then uses
4AWG going forward to the Starter contactor. 2AWG is shown from Starter contactor
to Starter.
Z-14 is not appropriate for 99% of the OBAM projects
under construction . . .
>>> It is overkill. What are the characteristics of the 1% that Z-14 would be good
for? Dual electronic ignition w/ EFIS-only avionics seems a likely candidate.
Q2: General ALT fuse question: What's the rationale behind how to size ANL
fuses (maybe max amps - 10 or something)?
Fuses protect wires only and have no value in
mitigating a runaway alternator condition. A runaway
alternator is generally incapable of opening the
b-lead protection under any conditions.
>>> Okay, but what size ANL is appropriate for 60A alternator? Something less than
60A ANL? I can't imagine ever pulling anywhere close to 60A total. Dumb question
- Does a 60A alternator put out 60A continuously or does its output vary
depending upon other factors?
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Bridged Amps, miss match impedance (was: Dumb questions) |
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dumb questions
>What Rick is referring to is the differential balanced PAIR
>of wires that goes to each speaker. This is a technique
> that allows TWO amplifiers to drive both wires of a
> speaker out
To add to Bob's comments, "bridged amps", each speaker
wire, Pos and Neg are powered by amps, so don't ground
the speaker's Neg to gnd or airframe gnd. It might be best to
use the pre-amp output of the radio to drive your intercom.
When you connect a car's "bridge amp" to an intercom, with
on single common gnd you have an ISSUE? Most just use the
Pos from L & R & don't connect the Neg speaker wires at
all. It works, but some amps detect an imbalance & may not
work, shutting down, protecting itself. Use a 10uF capacitor
in line with the Pos speaker output, tricking it. For the
ground connection on the intercom? Leave it disconnected
or ground to the airframe (I'm talking about the ground on
the intercom's AUX audio input, not the receiver/CD player.)
I wouldn't use the hi-pwr speaker outputs at all. Most quality
radios today have preamp outputs. Using the speaker output
to drive your little mill-watt intercom is over driving to the
extreme. I guess you can hook-up some speakers to the
high pwr speaker drivers, and "rock-out" at the air show?
Impedance
The other issue is impedance. The impedance from car
receiver speaker output's is typ 8 ohm. Even little portable
players have 16-31 ohm head-phone outputs typically. The
INPUT to the intercom is typically 600-1000 ohms. This
miss-match will reduce the volume or gain. It might work,
it might not. The best way to handle this is a matching
transformer. A cars pre-amp output is typically of 2v to 5v,
so the mismatch may not be a big issue, since it has pwr
to overcome the inefficiency. Battery powered iPods on
the other hand have low pwr output and are affected by
miss-match more, so volume levels can be unacceptably low.
You can buy a solution from these guys. ($35?)
http://www.cirruslog.com/products/imp_adp/garmin_296.htm
(don't use this with a bridged amp, for low power no bridge)
You can make your own. Radio Shack to the rescue.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254
You need two for stereo.
Model: EI-19 Catalog #: 273-1380
Wire diagram:
http://www.cirruslog.com/products/imp_adp/garmin11.gif
EI-19 may not be the perfect transformers; if you have a
better suggestion or source let us all know.
*** Stereo to Mono Quandary:
If you want to go from stereo to mono (with a portable
low power device) don't tie the L & R together to make
mono directly. You may damage your iPod. Regardless,
it's just poor form. A resistor/capacitor pair is sometimes
used on each L & R channel, isolating them, before
connecting them together to make mono. However with
the miss-match mentioned above, the efficiency is already
pretty low; combined w/ the resistor/capacitor and small
amp, of a portable device, you might not have much volume.
Some will use a resistor/capacitor in line with each
speaker output (L&R) before tying them together.
Another way, use the matching/isolation transformer
above (EI-19) and wire like this.
http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/856/matchingtransformerfz7.jpg
(The radio shack audio transformer has a center tap
on the 1000 ohm side. Again not for high powered bridge
amps, just little low drive MP3, pocket AM/FM radios.)
The third way to handle low volume of portable devices
is this isolation / pre-amp. Here is a home made design
you build from your own parts (not a kit).
http://www.minidisc.org/headbanger.html
Enjoy George ATP/CFI - RV7
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | AM/FM radio antennas for planes (was: Dumb questions) |
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dumb questions
>The antenna is another deal entirely. Vertically
>polarized, medium wave signals run along the
>ground and work really fine with short antennas on
>ground based vehicles. Once you leave the ground,
>performance for a short whip antenna degrades.
The following is AM/FM radio fun talk and links on
antennas you all might find interesting, regarding receiving
AM and FM commercial broadcast signals in a plane.
If you are determined to have a car AM/FM receiver in
your plane you will have to deal with the antenna issue.
The following info is might give you some ideas. The big
point is, AM and FM antennas are really two different
animals by a factor of 75.
FM is more line of sight. If going X-C you will only have the
radio station for a 100-200 miles. AM radio is more suited
for long range listening, but there are other issues with AM.
Satellite radio (at $13 month) is a deluxe or best solution?
Many Sat radio car receivers also have a XM / Sirius receiver
built-in. You can get small compact portable Sat radio
receivers as well; even the Garmin 496 has a XM receiver.
The Sat radio antenna is a typical small GPS looking affair.
XM of course has weather service avaiable for $50/mo.
Down side of satellite radio is the fee. If determined to have
AM/FM radio read on.
As suggested before, I'm NOT a fan of AM/FM/CD car
receivers in the panel of a plane, but to each his own.
I prefer using portable entertainment devices. My big
complaint is the weight, about 3.5 to 5 lbs. The car
radios are heavy, by plane standards, and the extra
antenna wiring is an issue. Portable devices have
their own antenna which seem to work adequately
in a small plane, especially with a bubble canopy.
Therefore I like or recommend portable iPods or
radios, like a Grundig Mini 300 AM/FM/SW (pocket)
radio
Comant makes airplane antennas for AM/FM. They
are adaptations of a VHF whip about 20" to 25" long.
The problem is AM is from 530 KHz to 1700 KHz and
FM is 88 MHz to 108 MHz, so any two-in-one antenna
is NOT ideal for either, especially AM radio. So both
Comant or automotive antennas are not ideal. The
Comant is 50 ohm. FYI, most car radios are in the
75 ohm range.
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/[ci%20222]5-05.pdf
Like anything with antennas, there is optimal
sensitivity, signal and directional characteristics.
Car antennas are compromises. The commercial
aircraft AM/FM antennas are really VHF Com
antennas warmed over, a compromise. The difference
between FM and AM Freq is a factor of 75 !
PS Engineering sells an "Aviation" AM/FM/CD
player and they sell a preamp antenna (see pg 2-5).
http://www.ps-engineering.com/docs/PAV80_IM.pdf
This antenna looks just like a commercially avaiable
one for marine use ($16). Not sure how well it works.
http://tinyurl.com/2ew9zx
*** AM antenna's ***
Bob mentioned a trailing wire antenna of a doz feet or so.
If you are going for a trailing wire AM radio antenna, than
why not go all the way, +200-300 feet would be more
optimal (but not practical). It would be fun to play with
a long wire to see what you can receive.
Trivia:
Air-force one has a trailing wire antenna 5 miles long!
Military uses 15-20Khz for talking to subs and 1/2
wave length antenna is about 26,750 feet or 5 miles.
If you fly near Arlington, Washington State, the
Jim Creek Naval Radio Station is in the foot hills
of the near by Cascade mountains. The antenna is
strung across the valley between two mountain
tops from two 200' tall towers. I am guessing the
antenna is about 5 to 6 miles long!
One popular antenna for AM radio, when you can't string
250 or 500 feet of wire outside, is a LOOP. A loop is really
a long wire antenna wrapped around in a circle or square.
They can be very effective in pulling in signals. What is
cool about a LOOP is it can pull in stations 600 plus mile
away. They are not quite as good as a long wire but more
compact for sure.
Not really practical for an airplane, but if you made a
made a small 8" loop and manipulate it in the cockpit
(with a safety pilot), you can find direction to the station.
If the loop is "balanced" you rotate the loop to find the
NULL signal. You will have to maneuver to determine
the "ambiguity" since there are two NULLS. This is
HOW the ADF works, but ADF's use 4 loops in one unit.
With the signals from the 4 loops and a sense antenna
(the long wire), the ADF receiver interprets the signals.
The direction (ambiguity) to station is solved automatically,
thus the name, Automatic Direction Finder or ADF.
Below are links on LOOPS for grins and giggles.
If you are interested in LOOPS, you could make your
own and get your old table top AM radio receiving
stations 500-1000 miles away!
http://www.mindspring.com/~loop_antenna/
Commercial AM radio indoor loop antenna
products like the link below
http://www.smarthome.com/7744ad.html
provide amazing performance It is connected
with two wires to the radio, but it also works by
just placing it near the radio. Interesting. Portable
radios typically have a "ferrite loopstick" as Bob
calls them. Often they don't have antenna hook
up scews. The oop antenna has electromagnetic
affect on the internal antenna and pulls in more
signal. If you have a fiberglass plane you could
wrap a loop in the aft fuselage..
*** FM Radio ***
You can buy slick looking coil loaded antennas for
cars but I suspect they look better than perform, like
this one:
http://tinyurl.com/37hte5
An FM radio antenna whip, min length 2.5' to 3'. A simple
FM antenna is a dipole antenna for $3 from a hardware
store. These are the "Tee" wire dipole antennas come
with most TV's in a box. They work for FM as well.
They're 58" across and 300 ohm. A 75 ohms version is:
http://tinyurl.com/cbmzj
Car radios are usually 75 ohm. Portable radios don't
usually have external antenna connections, but if they
do, it usually is 300 ohm (screw terminals) or 75 ohm,
if there's a F-connector (like your cable TV). There are
low cost balun connectors to convert the 75 Ohms to
300 Ohms. You could wrap these wire antennas under
the canopy, fiberglass fuselage or cowl area. It's only
58" long, which is 1/2 wave for FM. Will it work for AM?
Yes, but its not ideal. As I started off, AM and FM is
different. One antenna for both AM/FM is a compromise.
Also what works on a car or boat is not necessarily
ideal for airplanes. Have fun making antennas.
Cheers George ATP/CFI - RV7
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: B&C alternator 30Amps |
From: | "kakydanou" <daniel.gallaz(at)hotmail.com> |
mprather(at)spro.net wrote:
> 433H doesn't look like one of the B&C part numbers.
>
Actually it is but you have to check it under the "catalog PDF" page 7.
You find it as well on the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
And as my airplane is a certified model, it would be to obvious if I'd use a belt
driven unit. I really to use something similar to the 200G which "tolerated"
from our Swiss Authorities.
I definitely need 25A because my airplane is Night VFR.
Thank's for your replies,
Daniel
www.hb-sop.ch if you want to check my internet site (french AND English)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161309#161309
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: AM/FM radio antennas for planes (was: Dumb questions) |
Good Morning George,
Piper Pacers and TriPacers came from the factory with a very efficient loop
antenna inside the tail cone. It was supported by the longerons, had three or
four turns of wire, and was about two feet in diameter. By judicious
adjustment of the volume, it was easy to use that fixed loop to determine a one
degree null. Appropriate maneuvering of the aircraft allowed the pilot to
determine the state of ambiguity so that it could be determined if the airplane
was
pointing toward or away from the station.
It was, and still could be, a very low cost means of very accurate
navigation.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
628 West 86th Street
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8502
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
In a message dated 1/30/2008 4:26:54 A.M. Central Standard Time,
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com writes:
If you have a fiberglass plane you could
wrap a loop in the aft fuselage.
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Please ignore my previous post regarding ALT output current. I believe the regulator
samples voltage and then controls Field lead to make generator (ALT) output
current up to the rated capacity of the device.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161343#161343
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000 |
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know what battery Dynon uses for (internal)backup power? Make model
> size etc? If you get one from the factory they cost an arm and a leg
> ($125.00) and I know they must be available from my local battery mart for a
> LOT less.
>
> Same question on the internal battery for a legacy (monochrome LCD screen)
> VM-1000 DPU? I haven't opened the DPU but since all the battery in there
> does is hold up the memory I suspect it's a button cell like those in a PC.
> Since this model of VM-1000 is now orphaned it would be nice to find
> alternate source for the internal battery. Thanks.
>
>
Take the battery out and carry it over to your local "Batteries-R-Us".
They'll match it up and give you the cheapest price you'll find other
than surplus.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Firewall penetration |
We used a similar fitting but it has a barbed extension to clamp flexible c
onduit over it.$2.50 ea in Lowes Aviation dept.See photos attached We used
4 of theses on our RV-10 mounted in the firewall center recess.The wires pa
ss thru the bulkhead fitting with a connector on either side.The wires are
wrapped in fire sleeve similar to the SafeAir design.After the pass-thrus a
re in the firewall the FWF side connectors are mounted on to the back side
of a SS plate which covers the recess. Eric ParlowRV-10, 40014N104EP> Date:
ctric-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrat
lson(at)pobox.com>> > Hi Jim,> > Clever idea. I presume it's brass so it's cor
rosion resistant even though> you drilled out the threads.> > I saw a cleve
r use of EMT tubing set screw connectors (ie steel electrical> conduit tubi
ng). You can see a picture here (search for 'set-screw'):> > http://www.all
iedtube.com/electrical-raceways/conduit/emt-connectors-couplings.asp> > The
builder had notched out the set screw. Personally, I think I'd leave> the
set screw hole (and toss the set screw) and make sure the inside of> coupli
ng was free of any burrs, etc. The set screw hole is slightly> raised thus
providing a little bit of a 'barb' to keep any clamps and fire> sleeve from
backing out.> > The connectors are available in a variety of nominal sizes
from 1/2',> 3/4', 1', 1-1/4', 1-1/2', all the way up to 4'. Any hardware s
tore (at> least in the US) would have the smaller sizes.> > I would also th
ink about using some .032 sheet behind the locking nut> rather than have th
e nut gouge the firewall.> > Regards,> /\/elson> Austin, TX> RV-7A - Canopy
frame> > > ~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without
any spring. ~~> > On Mon, 28 Jan 2008, rvtach wrote:> > > --> AeroElectric-
List message posted by: 'rvtach' > >> > Hi-> >> > Working o
n making firewall penetrations and making them fireproof. I'm using steel e
yeballs for engine control cables and a stainless heater valve. I'm expecti
ng to have a single penetration for electrical wiring and for engine sensor
s etc near the battery box.> >> > I like Bob's modified grab handle method
for a fireproof penetration but it's larger and bulkier than I need. And it
's probably not a good use of my $time$ to try to come up with a less expen
sive alternative to the SafeAir 1 stainless fire wall pass through system;
it's only $50. But it's $50! I came across a plumbing fitting in the 'swamp
cooler' section of my local plumbing supply today and it just might be a $
3.50 alternative. I have posted some photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/
rvtach/FirewallPassthrough that show the hardware.> >> > It comes threaded
internally for 1/2' NPT. I removed the threads by running a 7/8' drill thro
ugh it. The whole thing fits snugly through a 1' hole and is secured by a t
hreaded nut which would need to be secured with some thread locker. I would
use firesleeve and hose clamps like Bob's grab handle or the SafeAir 1 pro
duct. There's just over 1/2' to clamp the sleeve to which is a little short
but should be adequate.> >> > So, can any of you guys think of any problem
s with this method? Maybe I shouldn't use brass hardware against the s/s fi
rewall? Brass melts to easily? Anything? Appreciate any help at all here.>
>> > --------> > Jim McChesney> > Tucson, AZ> > RV-7A Finishing Kit> >> >>
>> >> > Read this topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/view
> > >
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mlas(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000 |
The Dynon uses lithium cells with a power protection circuit. Early in
their production some units were shipped without this power circuit.
Dynon went to great lengths to ensure these improperly manufactured
battery packs were replaced at Dynon's expense. If your not familiar
with Lithium packs, they will not tolerate over voltage during the
charge cycle. They will swell and in the most extreme cases rupture and
catch fire. That is the reason for the protection circuit on the
battery, hence the cost. I want to say that the cell make up was a four
cell pack. I would consider using an external battery system with your
own charge controller.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Ernest Christley
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know what battery Dynon uses for (internal)backup power? Make
model
> size etc? If you get one from the factory they cost an arm and a leg
> ($125.00) and I know they must be available from my local battery mart
for a
> LOT less.
>
> Same question on the internal battery for a legacy (monochrome LCD
screen)
> VM-1000 DPU? I haven't opened the DPU but since all the battery in
there
> does is hold up the memory I suspect it's a button cell like those in
a PC.
> Since this model of VM-1000 is now orphaned it would be nice to find
> alternate source for the internal battery. Thanks.
>
>
Take the battery out and carry it over to your local "Batteries-R-Us".
They'll match it up and give you the cheapest price you'll find other
than surplus.
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Subject: | Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000 |
Yes I was going to say you can get SLA batteries as small as about 1.2AH from Batteries.com....Simply
use a diode to drop the charging voltage to about 12V
(and prevent backfeeding). Then run your Dynon from from this little battery.
Frank.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Internal Batterys for Dynon and VM1000
The Dynon uses lithium cells with a power protection circuit. Early in their production
some units were shipped without this power circuit.
Dynon went to great lengths to ensure these improperly manufactured battery packs
were replaced at Dynon's expense. If your not familiar with Lithium packs,
they will not tolerate over voltage during the charge cycle. They will swell
and in the most extreme cases rupture and catch fire. That is the reason for
the protection circuit on the battery, hence the cost. I want to say that the
cell make up was a four cell pack. I would consider using an external battery
system with your own charge controller.
Mike
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
>* I have in mind using two 17AH batteries to be mounted in the battery
>mount back behind the baggage compartment. What's connected from here is
>up for grabs.
>
>Why two?
>
> >>> Assumming dead alternator... The goal is for battery (or batteries)
> to provide adequate power to avionics & ignition system to safely
> complete flight. Hopefully, the total available amp-hour capacity exceeds
> available fuel supply. The notion is that two batteries provide
> redundancy if one proves incapable of providing adequate performance.
> Rotating one out at each annual reduces dud factor.
If you have a vacuum pump pad open, an 8A
alternator is a whole lot lighter than
a second 17 a.h. battery, has indefinite
service life and unlimited energy for
continued flight.
>
>
>* Z-14 is obviously way more expensive, has more moving parts and appears
>to be overkill. However, the Z-19RB (5/4/07) has shows 5 engine/dc power
>switches as compared to 3 required for Z-14. In addition, Z-19RB appears
>to use an obsolete/unavailable part (ack!) AEC9005-101 low voltage module.
>I found another Z-19 cousin while pawing around called FOLDOUT4.DWG. This
>one uses the LR-3 and appears to be a bit more simple compared to the
>Z-19RB. Is Z-19RB "dated"?
Z-19 is for electrically dependent automotive
conversions that CANNOT have a second alternator.
>First, consider Z-13/8 with one battery and tell us how it falls short of
>a perceived requirement. If you're planning any form of non-traditional
>aircraft ignition,
>consider a p-mag.
>
> >>> Z-13 is an attractive setup. However, my understanding is that p-mag
> devices aren't available for 6 cylinder (e.g. Lycoming 540) engines. I
> thought they were only used on 4 cylinder ones. Therefore, I have not
> considered Z-13 as a viable option. Z19RB still seems to fit.
No. Z-13/8 can be used with ANY combination of ignition
systems. For the lightest weight, lowest cost of ownership
and highest reliability, Z-13/8 with one battery is your
best choice.
>Q1: Z-14 diagram (rev 5/9/06) strangeness... Both AUX & Main contactors
>are shown with 4AWG in and out of the primary terminals. Strangely, the
>Crossfeed contactor has 2AWG out (to Main Batt Contactor) which then uses
>4AWG going forward to the Starter contactor. 2AWG is shown from Starter
>contactor to Starter.
>
>Z-14 is not appropriate for 99% of the OBAM projects under construction . . .
>
> >>> It is overkill. What are the characteristics of the 1% that Z-14
> would be good for? Dual electronic ignition w/ EFIS-only avionics seems a
> likely candidate.
No. A Lancair IVP with full up IFR panel both
sides and intended to be used in a manner that
pushes the comfort zone for all weather flight.
Since that drawing was published, I've had only
3 or 4 readers who were building that kind of
airplane with that kind of mission.
>Q2: General ALT fuse question: What's the rationale behind how to size ANL
>fuses (maybe max amps - 10 or something)?
>
>Fuses protect wires only and have no value in mitigating a runaway
>alternator condition. A runaway alternator is generally incapable of
>opening the b-lead protection under any conditions.
>
> >>> Okay, but what size ANL is appropriate for 60A alternator? Something
> less than 60A ANL? I can't imagine ever pulling anywhere close to 60A
> total. Dumb question - Does a 60A alternator put out 60A continuously or
> does its output vary depending upon other factors?
Look at the specs for an ANL published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
An ANL35 would carry the full output of a 60A alternator
indefinitely. ANL devices are not fuses in the classic
sense. They're designed to protect against hard faults
against batteries (read 1000+ amps). They don't have to
be calibrated with the same precision as the classic fuse.
It's easy to find an 60, use that.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell" <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net> |
Has anyone developed a program to reduce post flight data from a Dynon
EMS D120 log?
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Re: DYNON EMS Log |
Try searching for "WAITERS FLIGHT DATA RECORDER". Pretty slick freeware.
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same
opening which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It
really doesn't matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during
cranking. At idle on the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition
noise from one ignition. No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
I don't have mags.
Ken
>
>
>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are too
>> close to high current (fat) wires.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>
>
> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus feed lines
through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No really fat
wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough current here for me to
need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires separate?
>
> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make 2 more
penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lincoln Keill <airlincoln(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I'm planning on initially equipping my RV-7 for day/night VFR flight with one magneto
and one Lightspeed electronic ignition, turn coordinator, one VHF radio
and transponder. Once I get comfortable in the airplane (and the budget allows),
I plan on buying all the goodies to make her an IFR bird and re-doing the
panel with a GNS-430 and Dynon D-100 (or similar).
Bob describes the Z-13/8 architecture as "dual-layer" so my plan was to build
the "Z-13" part of the system initially and leave the "/8" part of it out until
I get to the point where my bank account and experience allow me to make her
IFR. It looks like everything on the "/8" side of the system is in front of
the firewall (except for the wires running to the "AUX ALT" switch and the additional
loadmeter/ammeter) so I'm thinking this is a good plan. By buying big
enough fuse blocks for future expension and sizing the main alternator appropriately,
it seems doable. Anyone ever do this, think about doing it or have
advice one way or the other? Please feel free to shoot holes in my thinking.
I did a search on the site but came up empty. Thanks.
Lincoln Keill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cleary" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
Jim,
This search led me to the FlyEZ site - what a great site.
Thank you,
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
McBurney
Sent: Friday, 1 February 2008 2:03 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DYNON EMS Log
Try searching for "WAITERS FLIGHT DATA RECORDER". Pretty slick freeware.
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
9:29 AM
9:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
f you have a vacuum pump pad open, an 8A
alternator is a whole lot lighter than
a second 17 a.h. battery, has indefinite
service life and unlimited energy for
continued flight.
>> I do have one and I will consider this option.
Z-19 is for electrically dependent automotive
conversions that CANNOT have a second alternator.
>> That's fairly obvious once you understand what ECU and EFI acronyms mean...
However, the diagram nicely showed a rear battery mount just like the RV10 requires
(it's nose heavy). I had a lot of confusion until someone pointed out to
me that, in general, Z diagrams were written from the view point of airplanes
that use front-mounted batteries. It's not always easy to tell which is which
as "RB" only appears in the -19 as far as it could see.
Z-13/8 can be used with ANY combination of ignition
systems. For the lightest weight, lowest cost of ownership
and highest reliability, Z-13/8 with one battery is your
best choice.
>> I agree in principle that this would be the best choice. However - I spoke with
the P-Mag guys and the 6 cylinder version is -not- a shipping product (or
anytime soon either). Since vaporware isn't a good power source, I'll build my
electrical system to not preclude this as a future upgrade.
A Lancair IVP with full up IFR panel both
sides and intended to be used in a manner that
pushes the comfort zone for all weather flight.
Since that drawing was published, I've had only
3 or 4 readers who were building that kind of
airplane with that kind of mission.
>> Maybe, but I'm willing to bet there are more than a couple of RV10 builders
considering this route. Are you guys out there lurking? :-)
Look at the specs for an ANL published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
>> Thanks. It's a bit overwhelming how many documents are available. I'm not complaining
as it's better to know the information must be out there than to simply
"guess" and be sorry later!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161665#161665
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
One more question... The Z-19RB battery location is the same as for the RV-10.
Do you see any real advantage of running a #2AWG ground forward to the forest
of tab in a metal airplane rather than grounding locally? There's plenty of conduit
space space in my fuse, but would rather save the weight as #2 is pretty
heavy. I'm planning on running #2AWG forward to the starter...
Thanks,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161668#161668
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Wireless Thermometers |
Hi:
Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
Thanks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation |
I have just joined the list today although I have made good use of the
AeroElectric website for a long time. I have probably the 3000th radio
noise question for the list but mine might be more uncommon due to my
uncommon installation. I have a Chevy V8 on a Murphy Super Rebel, using an
MSD dual electronic ignition system. Two ignition modules, two coils, one
dual pickup distributor, one set of unshielded ignition wires and resistor
plugs. There is a switch in the cockpit for choosing one system or the
other which basically just switches modules and coils. I have the following
avionics which were professionally prewired for me so all I had to do was
hook up power, ground and antenna wires.
Garmin 340 Audio Panel
King KX-165 Nav/Com
King 76C Transponder
Centruy NSD360A non-slaved HSI
My battery is grounded in the back directly to the airframe. I have a
grounding block on the firewall where all of the avionics are grounded,
along with most other things although one ignition module is grounded to the
firewall in a different location. The grounding block on the firewall is
directly connected to the engine block with a large gauge cable. I have
filters on the alternator but the alternator is not the source. (I ran the
engine with the alternator solonoid switch open and the alternator drive
belt removed. Still have the same noise.) I detect no noise from the
stobes. The radio power wire is filtered. I used RG-142/400 antenna wire.
The noise is present with or without the audio panel/intercom. I made sure
none of the headset jacks were grounding to the airframe and the noise is
present in all jacks. The noise is much worse on the NAV side unless there
is voice on the NAV frequency, then the noise is about the same. The comm
antenna is on the cabin top and the nav antenna is on top of the vertical
stab. The noise changes in pitch with engine RPM. It's a sort of whine
with static. My transmissions are reported by the tower as loud and clear.
The ignition modules are mounted inside the cockpit, one on each sidewall
just behind the firewall. I can only see this as the source if I have a
compromise in both the comm and nav antenna wires or coax connectors that
are nearby. I wouldn't put it past me to screw up more than one coax
connector but I was pretty careful installing them on the wires. Someone
told me that I might try disconnecting the NAV/COMM ground wire because it
might be grounded through the mounting tray and the additional ground might
set up a loop. I haven't tried that yet. I remember reading about making
sure the antenna itself was grounded but I think I remember a cork gasket
that went under it before mounting to the airframe. Might there be a
problem with the way I mounted the comm and nav antennas themselves? If the
problem is radiated from the coils, ignition wires, or distributor I'm
screwed. Shielding those will be a huge problem.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mike Kimball
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Hi Mike,
Are you using (have you tried) spiral wound wires? I am running an old
LSE ignition on my O-200 powered Varieze. This model of LSE has an MSD
amplifier and a pair of MSD coils. When I installed the system I made
custom length Moroso spiral core wires connected to Nippon Denso
(resistor) plugs.
The electronic ignition is _very_ quiet compared to the magneto.
Disconnect the antenna leads from the back of the radio. If the noise is
gone, the propagation mode is radiated...
I have heard of people having noise problems when using solid core wires.
Regards,
Matt-
> I have just joined the list today although I have made good use of the
> AeroElectric website for a long time. I have probably the 3000th radio
> noise question for the list but mine might be more uncommon due to my
> uncommon installation. I have a Chevy V8 on a Murphy Super Rebel, using
> an
> MSD dual electronic ignition system. Two ignition modules, two coils, one
> dual pickup distributor, one set of unshielded ignition wires and resistor
> plugs. There is a switch in the cockpit for choosing one system or the
> other which basically just switches modules and coils. I have the
> following
> avionics which were professionally prewired for me so all I had to do was
> hook up power, ground and antenna wires.
>
> Garmin 340 Audio Panel
> King KX-165 Nav/Com
> King 76C Transponder
> Centruy NSD360A non-slaved HSI
>
> My battery is grounded in the back directly to the airframe. I have a
> grounding block on the firewall where all of the avionics are grounded,
> along with most other things although one ignition module is grounded to
> the
> firewall in a different location. The grounding block on the firewall is
> directly connected to the engine block with a large gauge cable. I have
> filters on the alternator but the alternator is not the source. (I ran
> the
> engine with the alternator solonoid switch open and the alternator drive
> belt removed. Still have the same noise.) I detect no noise from the
> stobes. The radio power wire is filtered. I used RG-142/400 antenna
> wire.
> The noise is present with or without the audio panel/intercom. I made
> sure
> none of the headset jacks were grounding to the airframe and the noise is
> present in all jacks. The noise is much worse on the NAV side unless
> there
> is voice on the NAV frequency, then the noise is about the same. The comm
> antenna is on the cabin top and the nav antenna is on top of the vertical
> stab. The noise changes in pitch with engine RPM. It's a sort of whine
> with static. My transmissions are reported by the tower as loud and
> clear.
>
> The ignition modules are mounted inside the cockpit, one on each sidewall
> just behind the firewall. I can only see this as the source if I have a
> compromise in both the comm and nav antenna wires or coax connectors that
> are nearby. I wouldn't put it past me to screw up more than one coax
> connector but I was pretty careful installing them on the wires. Someone
> told me that I might try disconnecting the NAV/COMM ground wire because it
> might be grounded through the mounting tray and the additional ground
> might
> set up a loop. I haven't tried that yet. I remember reading about making
> sure the antenna itself was grounded but I think I remember a cork gasket
> that went under it before mounting to the airframe. Might there be a
> problem with the way I mounted the comm and nav antennas themselves? If
> the
> problem is radiated from the coils, ignition wires, or distributor I'm
> screwed. Shielding those will be a huge problem.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Mike Kimball
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wireless Thermometers |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
I doubt it would be a problem. I think they are using low power 433MHz
transceivers which isn't really near any aircraft system. I might do a
fairly careful study before I planned to fly the plane with a coupled
autopilot in the clouds if I had such a probe in the airplane - just to be
sure.
Something like this?
http://www.weatherconnection.com/product.asp?itmky=24075
Regards,
Matt-
> Hi:
>
> Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
> your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation |
Taylor 409 spiral wound wires. Supposed to be very good wires and good for
noise suppression. I'm pretty sure I did check the noise with the antenna
disconnected and the noise is gone. I'll recheck that when it warms up (-25
F today and the near future here in Fairbanks, AK and the plane is outside)
That's why I am interested in possible antenna mounting issues. Thanks.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation
Hi Mike,
Are you using (have you tried) spiral wound wires? I am running an old
LSE ignition on my O-200 powered Varieze. This model of LSE has an MSD
amplifier and a pair of MSD coils. When I installed the system I made
custom length Moroso spiral core wires connected to Nippon Denso
(resistor) plugs.
The electronic ignition is _very_ quiet compared to the magneto.
Disconnect the antenna leads from the back of the radio. If the noise is
gone, the propagation mode is radiated...
I have heard of people having noise problems when using solid core wires.
Regards,
Matt-
> I have just joined the list today although I have made good use of the
> AeroElectric website for a long time. I have probably the 3000th radio
> noise question for the list but mine might be more uncommon due to my
> uncommon installation. I have a Chevy V8 on a Murphy Super Rebel, using
> an
> MSD dual electronic ignition system. Two ignition modules, two coils, one
> dual pickup distributor, one set of unshielded ignition wires and resistor
> plugs. There is a switch in the cockpit for choosing one system or the
> other which basically just switches modules and coils. I have the
> following
> avionics which were professionally prewired for me so all I had to do was
> hook up power, ground and antenna wires.
>
> Garmin 340 Audio Panel
> King KX-165 Nav/Com
> King 76C Transponder
> Centruy NSD360A non-slaved HSI
>
> My battery is grounded in the back directly to the airframe. I have a
> grounding block on the firewall where all of the avionics are grounded,
> along with most other things although one ignition module is grounded to
> the
> firewall in a different location. The grounding block on the firewall is
> directly connected to the engine block with a large gauge cable. I have
> filters on the alternator but the alternator is not the source. (I ran
> the
> engine with the alternator solonoid switch open and the alternator drive
> belt removed. Still have the same noise.) I detect no noise from the
> stobes. The radio power wire is filtered. I used RG-142/400 antenna
> wire.
> The noise is present with or without the audio panel/intercom. I made
> sure
> none of the headset jacks were grounding to the airframe and the noise is
> present in all jacks. The noise is much worse on the NAV side unless
> there
> is voice on the NAV frequency, then the noise is about the same. The comm
> antenna is on the cabin top and the nav antenna is on top of the vertical
> stab. The noise changes in pitch with engine RPM. It's a sort of whine
> with static. My transmissions are reported by the tower as loud and
> clear.
>
> The ignition modules are mounted inside the cockpit, one on each sidewall
> just behind the firewall. I can only see this as the source if I have a
> compromise in both the comm and nav antenna wires or coax connectors that
> are nearby. I wouldn't put it past me to screw up more than one coax
> connector but I was pretty careful installing them on the wires. Someone
> told me that I might try disconnecting the NAV/COMM ground wire because it
> might be grounded through the mounting tray and the additional ground
> might
> set up a loop. I haven't tried that yet. I remember reading about making
> sure the antenna itself was grounded but I think I remember a cork gasket
> that went under it before mounting to the airframe. Might there be a
> problem with the way I mounted the comm and nav antennas themselves? If
> the
> problem is radiated from the coils, ignition wires, or distributor I'm
> screwed. Shielding those will be a huge problem.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Mike Kimball
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago using
the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment. I was
cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast steel
compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would actually burn
very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the steel tube/forged
fittings which were much more expensive but would not burn.
I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention it.
Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
Just what I was told on this list back then.
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same opening
which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It really doesn't
matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during cranking. At idle on
the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition noise from one ignition.
No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
I don't have mags.
Ken
>
>
>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>
>
> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough current
here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires
separate?
>
> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make 2
more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Sounds fine..
What kind of fuel delivery do you have? Carb or FI?
-25F? That's just silly. :)
Matt-
>
> Taylor 409 spiral wound wires. Supposed to be very good wires and good
> for
> noise suppression. I'm pretty sure I did check the noise with the antenna
> disconnected and the noise is gone. I'll recheck that when it warms up
> (-25
> F today and the near future here in Fairbanks, AK and the plane is
> outside)
> That's why I am interested in possible antenna mounting issues. Thanks.
> Keep the suggestions coming.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
> Prather
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:05 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation
>
>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Are you using (have you tried) spiral wound wires? I am running an old
> LSE ignition on my O-200 powered Varieze. This model of LSE has an MSD
> amplifier and a pair of MSD coils. When I installed the system I made
> custom length Moroso spiral core wires connected to Nippon Denso
> (resistor) plugs.
>
> The electronic ignition is _very_ quiet compared to the magneto.
>
> Disconnect the antenna leads from the back of the radio. If the noise is
> gone, the propagation mode is radiated...
>
> I have heard of people having noise problems when using solid core wires.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Matt-
>
>
>> I have just joined the list today although I have made good use of the
>> AeroElectric website for a long time. I have probably the 3000th radio
>> noise question for the list but mine might be more uncommon due to my
>> uncommon installation. I have a Chevy V8 on a Murphy Super Rebel, using
>> an
>> MSD dual electronic ignition system. Two ignition modules, two coils,
>> one
>> dual pickup distributor, one set of unshielded ignition wires and
>> resistor
>> plugs. There is a switch in the cockpit for choosing one system or the
>> other which basically just switches modules and coils. I have the
>> following
>> avionics which were professionally prewired for me so all I had to do
>> was
>> hook up power, ground and antenna wires.
>>
>> Garmin 340 Audio Panel
>> King KX-165 Nav/Com
>> King 76C Transponder
>> Centruy NSD360A non-slaved HSI
>>
>> My battery is grounded in the back directly to the airframe. I have a
>> grounding block on the firewall where all of the avionics are grounded,
>> along with most other things although one ignition module is grounded to
>> the
>> firewall in a different location. The grounding block on the firewall
>> is
>> directly connected to the engine block with a large gauge cable. I have
>> filters on the alternator but the alternator is not the source. (I ran
>> the
>> engine with the alternator solonoid switch open and the alternator drive
>> belt removed. Still have the same noise.) I detect no noise from the
>> stobes. The radio power wire is filtered. I used RG-142/400 antenna
>> wire.
>> The noise is present with or without the audio panel/intercom. I made
>> sure
>> none of the headset jacks were grounding to the airframe and the noise
>> is
>> present in all jacks. The noise is much worse on the NAV side unless
>> there
>> is voice on the NAV frequency, then the noise is about the same. The
>> comm
>> antenna is on the cabin top and the nav antenna is on top of the
>> vertical
>> stab. The noise changes in pitch with engine RPM. It's a sort of whine
>> with static. My transmissions are reported by the tower as loud and
>> clear.
>>
>> The ignition modules are mounted inside the cockpit, one on each
>> sidewall
>> just behind the firewall. I can only see this as the source if I have a
>> compromise in both the comm and nav antenna wires or coax connectors
>> that
>> are nearby. I wouldn't put it past me to screw up more than one coax
>> connector but I was pretty careful installing them on the wires.
>> Someone
>> told me that I might try disconnecting the NAV/COMM ground wire because
>> it
>> might be grounded through the mounting tray and the additional ground
>> might
>> set up a loop. I haven't tried that yet. I remember reading about
>> making
>> sure the antenna itself was grounded but I think I remember a cork
>> gasket
>> that went under it before mounting to the airframe. Might there be a
>> problem with the way I mounted the comm and nav antennas themselves? If
>> the
>> problem is radiated from the coils, ignition wires, or distributor I'm
>> screwed. Shielding those will be a huge problem.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Mike Kimball
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
>
>One more question... The Z-19RB battery location is the same as for the
>RV-10. Do you see any real advantage of running a #2AWG ground forward to
>the forest of tab in a metal airplane rather than grounding locally?
>There's plenty of conduit space space in my fuse, but would rather save
>the weight as #2 is pretty heavy. I'm planning on running #2AWG forward to
>the starter...
>
>Thanks,
>Jay
See
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Jay,
I'm using a Z-14 in my RV-10. I have dual electronic ignitions and an all electric
panel (but with 2.25" ASI and ALT for backup). Given my absolute dependence
on having juice flowing, it wasn't that much of a leap from Z-13/20 to Z-14.
I have an electronic ignition on each battery bus and the panel "stuff" is
split between the buses. When I did the allocations to each bus it was with
consideration of what would happen "if". Given that, I can lose one bus in its
entirety and still not be sweating even if I'm in the clag. Granted, if that
happens I'll get on the ground and figure it out but it will be with the comfort
of being able to pick which airport and approach I'll use.
Looking at actual measured panel loads, it would be no big deal to downsize from
a 60A main alternator to a 40A and the vacuum pad alternator from 20A to 8A.
That would probably more than offset the additional cost/weight of the second
battery, 2 contactors and related wire while still retaining huge redundancy.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161821#161821
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
>
>f you have a vacuum pump pad open, an 8A
>alternator is a whole lot lighter than
>a second 17 a.h. battery, has indefinite
>service life and unlimited energy for
>continued flight.
>
> >> I do have one and I will consider this option.
??? What consideration of physics and operational
philosophy prevents you from doing this right
now? How does a second battery become more attractive
than an engine driven power source that is lighter,
performs better (unlimited energy, practically
zero maintenance) and a fraction of the cost of
ownership?
>Z-19 is for electrically dependent automotive
>conversions that CANNOT have a second alternator.
>
> >> That's fairly obvious once you understand what ECU and EFI acronyms
> mean... However, the diagram nicely showed a rear battery mount just like
> the RV10 requires (it's nose heavy). I had a lot of confusion until
> someone pointed out to me that, in general, Z diagrams were written from
> the view point of airplanes that use front-mounted batteries. It's not
> always easy to tell which is which as "RB" only appears in the -19 as far
> as it could see.
You can mount the battery(ies) in the back for ANY
of the Z-figures. If you're selecting Z-19RB just
because of where the battery goes, then it's
not clear that you understand what the z-figures
are intended to illustrate.
>Z-13/8 can be used with ANY combination of ignition
>systems. For the lightest weight, lowest cost of ownership
>and highest reliability, Z-13/8 with one battery is your
>best choice.
>
> >> I agree in principle that this would be the best choice. However - I
> spoke with the P-Mag guys and the 6 cylinder version is -not- a shipping
> product (or anytime soon either). Since vaporware isn't a good power
> source, I'll build my electrical system to not preclude this as a future
> upgrade.
Don't understand. Conversations with Emagair have
nothing to do with your architecture decision.
ANY electronic ignition including Emags will
operate happily from any source of 12 volts be
it one of the z-figures . . . or a 12-v lantern
battery. If you "agree in principal" which I
presume is an acknowledgement of value for
seeking the elegant solution, then what information
are you working with that makes the less elegant
solution more attractive?
>A Lancair IVP with full up IFR panel both
>sides and intended to be used in a manner that
>pushes the comfort zone for all weather flight.
>Since that drawing was published, I've had only
>3 or 4 readers who were building that kind of
>airplane with that kind of mission.
>
> >> Maybe, but I'm willing to bet there are more than a couple of RV10
> builders considering this route. Are you guys out there lurking? :-)
Conversations with other RV10 builders have
nothing to do with your architecture decision.
What failures do you anticipate and under what
flight conditions that you now believe Z19RB
or even Z14 is a better choice than Z13/8?
This is the discussion that should drive choice of
architecture.
>Look at the specs for an ANL published at:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
>
> >> Thanks. It's a bit overwhelming how many documents are available. I'm
> not complaining as it's better to know the information must be out there
> than to simply "guess" and be sorry later!
But that illustrates my whole point. There is
a wealth of published data out there to help you
make considered decisions based on understanding
of simple-ideas from which repeatable experiments
(useful inventions) are assembled. I totally agree
that "guessing" is bad policy. But "going with
the flow" may not be much better.
If it's "overwhelming" to exploit these resources
to augment your own understanding, then you're
reduced to decision making by consensus.
Problem is, those in which you place your trust
may be no better informed than you choose to
be. This places you in the position of doing
what feels best. The result could become the
equivalent of using a dump truck to tow your
trash down to the curb or using a back-hoe to
plant petunias. They DO get the job done but
the cost of ownership is much larger than it
needs to be.
Know that a tiny fraction of bad days in the
cockpit resulting in bent airplanes and/or
people have root causes in electrical system
problems. The vast majority of those events
that ARE unhappy could be mitigated if not
eliminated a little preventative maintenance
or improved understanding. Virtually all of
the dark-n-stormy night stories I read and
accidents I've investigated revealed severe
lack of understanding . . . a condition that
is the EASIEST to avoid and MOST likely to
have reduced or even prevented the scenario
from going to it's unpleasant conclusion.
Hundreds of thousands of TC aircraft have been
successfully flown in the conditions you're
anticipating for nearly 100 years. This largely
event free outcome is in spite of being burdened
with crummy batteries, poor preventative
maintenance and generators/alternators that
were not much more robust than the batteries.
If you take a stock 1970 C-172 and do nothing
more than add low volts warning and put in
a PROPERLY MAINTAINED RG battery and top
of with some understanding of system physics,
I suggest that virtually ALL the dark-n-stormy
night stories in which this genre'of electrical
system has center stage would never have been
written.
Now we have alternators that run past TBO
on engines, second alternators that provide
unlimited endurance, and the freedom to craft
architectures that optimize performance while
suffering any failure of a component. As OBAM
aircraft builders, we're encouraged to understand
things about our airplanes that our spam-can-bound
brothers are NOT required to know.
This is an opportunity to take out lots of
weight, cost and $time$ to maintain while boosting
system reliability to numbers the TC guys
will be hard pressed to achieve . . . EVER.
That's what we're all here for. Not a pool of
consensus in which one simply puts a dip-stick.
This List is where one can find assistance in
achieving lowest weight, lowest volume, lowest
parts count, lowest cost of ownership, and
highest system reliability based on an OPTIMAL
combination of simple-ideas and repeatable-
experiments.
Overwhelming? Sure . . . we are ALL there
too at some point in our experiences.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maule Driver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
Here is my interpretation of same:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2155&log=43554&row=12
Thanks Bob.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>
>>One more question... The Z-19RB battery location is the same as for the
>>RV-10. Do you see any real advantage of running a #2AWG ground forward to
>>the forest of tab in a metal airplane rather than grounding locally?
>>There's plenty of conduit space space in my fuse, but would rather save
>>the weight as #2 is pretty heavy. I'm planning on running #2AWG forward to
>>the starter...
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Jay
>
> See
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z Diagram Questions |
>
>
>Jay,
>
>I'm using a Z-14 in my RV-10. I have dual electronic ignitions and an all
>electric panel (but with 2.25" ASI and ALT for backup). Given my absolute
>dependence on having juice flowing, it wasn't that much of a leap from
>Z-13/20 to Z-14. I have an electronic ignition on each battery bus and
>the panel "stuff" is split between the buses. When I did the allocations
>to each bus it was with consideration of what would happen "if". Given
>that, I can lose one bus in its entirety and still not be sweating even if
>I'm in the clag. Granted, if that happens I'll get on the ground and
>figure it out but it will be with the comfort of being able to pick which
>airport and approach I'll use.
>
>Looking at actual measured panel loads, it would be no big deal to
>downsize from a 60A main alternator to a 40A and the vacuum pad alternator
>from 20A to 8A. That would probably more than offset the additional
>cost/weight of the second battery, 2 contactors and related wire while
>still retaining huge redundancy.
>
>Bob #40105
A considered analysis of a repeatable experiment.
Thank you.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
1. Is 40" the correct length?
2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
conductor?
Deems Davis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation |
Holley 650 double pumper with a special plate that goes between the float
bowl and mixture plate that gives me mixture control in the cockpit. I am
also running dual electric fuel pumps with one way check valves. I have
eliminated the fuel pumps as the source.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation
Sounds fine..
What kind of fuel delivery do you have? Carb or FI?
-25F? That's just silly. :)
Matt-
>
> Taylor 409 spiral wound wires. Supposed to be very good wires and good
> for
> noise suppression. I'm pretty sure I did check the noise with the antenna
> disconnected and the noise is gone. I'll recheck that when it warms up
> (-25
> F today and the near future here in Fairbanks, AK and the plane is
> outside)
> That's why I am interested in possible antenna mounting issues. Thanks.
> Keep the suggestions coming.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
> Prather
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:05 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Noise Chevy V8 installation
>
>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Are you using (have you tried) spiral wound wires? I am running an old
> LSE ignition on my O-200 powered Varieze. This model of LSE has an MSD
> amplifier and a pair of MSD coils. When I installed the system I made
> custom length Moroso spiral core wires connected to Nippon Denso
> (resistor) plugs.
>
> The electronic ignition is _very_ quiet compared to the magneto.
>
> Disconnect the antenna leads from the back of the radio. If the noise is
> gone, the propagation mode is radiated...
>
> I have heard of people having noise problems when using solid core wires.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Matt-
>
>
>> I have just joined the list today although I have made good use of the
>> AeroElectric website for a long time. I have probably the 3000th radio
>> noise question for the list but mine might be more uncommon due to my
>> uncommon installation. I have a Chevy V8 on a Murphy Super Rebel, using
>> an
>> MSD dual electronic ignition system. Two ignition modules, two coils,
>> one
>> dual pickup distributor, one set of unshielded ignition wires and
>> resistor
>> plugs. There is a switch in the cockpit for choosing one system or the
>> other which basically just switches modules and coils. I have the
>> following
>> avionics which were professionally prewired for me so all I had to do
>> was
>> hook up power, ground and antenna wires.
>>
>> Garmin 340 Audio Panel
>> King KX-165 Nav/Com
>> King 76C Transponder
>> Centruy NSD360A non-slaved HSI
>>
>> My battery is grounded in the back directly to the airframe. I have a
>> grounding block on the firewall where all of the avionics are grounded,
>> along with most other things although one ignition module is grounded to
>> the
>> firewall in a different location. The grounding block on the firewall
>> is
>> directly connected to the engine block with a large gauge cable. I have
>> filters on the alternator but the alternator is not the source. (I ran
>> the
>> engine with the alternator solonoid switch open and the alternator drive
>> belt removed. Still have the same noise.) I detect no noise from the
>> stobes. The radio power wire is filtered. I used RG-142/400 antenna
>> wire.
>> The noise is present with or without the audio panel/intercom. I made
>> sure
>> none of the headset jacks were grounding to the airframe and the noise
>> is
>> present in all jacks. The noise is much worse on the NAV side unless
>> there
>> is voice on the NAV frequency, then the noise is about the same. The
>> comm
>> antenna is on the cabin top and the nav antenna is on top of the
>> vertical
>> stab. The noise changes in pitch with engine RPM. It's a sort of whine
>> with static. My transmissions are reported by the tower as loud and
>> clear.
>>
>> The ignition modules are mounted inside the cockpit, one on each
>> sidewall
>> just behind the firewall. I can only see this as the source if I have a
>> compromise in both the comm and nav antenna wires or coax connectors
>> that
>> are nearby. I wouldn't put it past me to screw up more than one coax
>> connector but I was pretty careful installing them on the wires.
>> Someone
>> told me that I might try disconnecting the NAV/COMM ground wire because
>> it
>> might be grounded through the mounting tray and the additional ground
>> might
>> set up a loop. I haven't tried that yet. I remember reading about
>> making
>> sure the antenna itself was grounded but I think I remember a cork
>> gasket
>> that went under it before mounting to the airframe. Might there be a
>> problem with the way I mounted the comm and nav antennas themselves? If
>> the
>> problem is radiated from the coils, ignition wires, or distributor I'm
>> screwed. Shielding those will be a huge problem.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Mike Kimball
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
I understand the experimental mentality and all, but this crap is so
cheap-o. Are we left to salvaging conduit fittings from electrical
contractors? I have tons of these things in coffee cans in my basement
if anyone really wants to use them.
These clamps are right at home running conduit to my air-conditioner,
but if you do a risk analysis of using them on the firewall with your
family sitting behind them, what value would you place on buying
something actually made for the firewall for a few dollars more?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago
using the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment.
I was cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast
steel compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would
actually burn very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the
steel tube/forged fittings which were much more expensive but would not
burn.
I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention
it. Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
Just what I was told on this list back then.
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same
opening which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It
really doesn't matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during
cranking. At idle on the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition
noise from one ignition. No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
I don't have mags.
Ken
>
>
>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>
>
> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough
current here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these
wires separate?
>
> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make
> 2
more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
Bob Archer makes one out of copper tape and it is 40 inches long.
Apparently that is the proper length for 1/4 wavelength. Here is a link to
a document with information about his antennas for composite airplanes and
contact info for him. He might even be willing to talk to you about making
your own even though he'll be talking himself out of a sale.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
Davis
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:27 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
1. Is 40" the correct length?
2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
conductor?
Deems Davis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
Forgot the link. It's http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/PRODS2.doc
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [mailto:mkimball(at)gci.net]
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
Bob Archer makes one out of copper tape and it is 40 inches long.
Apparently that is the proper length for 1/4 wavelength. Here is a link to
a document with information about his antennas for composite airplanes and
contact info for him. He might even be willing to talk to you about making
your own even though he'll be talking himself out of a sale.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
Davis
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:27 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
1. Is 40" the correct length?
2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
conductor?
Deems Davis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Kimball <mkimball(at)gci.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
Anybody have a web link to the proper penetration fittings?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg(at)pjm.com
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
I understand the experimental mentality and all, but this crap is so
cheap-o. Are we left to salvaging conduit fittings from electrical
contractors? I have tons of these things in coffee cans in my basement
if anyone really wants to use them.
These clamps are right at home running conduit to my air-conditioner,
but if you do a risk analysis of using them on the firewall with your
family sitting behind them, what value would you place on buying
something actually made for the firewall for a few dollars more?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago
using the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment.
I was cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast
steel compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would
actually burn very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the
steel tube/forged fittings which were much more expensive but would not
burn.
I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention
it. Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
Just what I was told on this list back then.
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same
opening which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It
really doesn't matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during
cranking. At idle on the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition
noise from one ignition. No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
I don't have mags.
Ken
>
>
>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>
>
> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough
current here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these
wires separate?
>
> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make
> 2
more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
These are what I installed. Buy direct from EPM or get them through
Aircraft Spruce.
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
The idea here is to buy time to shut off the fuel and get the airplane
on the ground in the event of an in flight engine fire. Aluminum,
plastic, brass, and zinc/aluminum (conduit fittings) will fail
catastrophically well below the temperature at which gasoline burns.
Steel (stainless or non-stainless) will withstand that temperature much
longer, allowing for a better chance at surviving the situation.
It is called a "firewall" for a reason.
Steve A
RV-6A
Mike Kimball wrote:
>
> Anybody have a web link to the proper penetration fittings?
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
Mike,
Here is one example. Hopefully this discussion will shake out some other
"less expensive" options.
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Kimball
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
Anybody have a web link to the proper penetration fittings?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
longg(at)pjm.com
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
I understand the experimental mentality and all, but this crap is so
cheap-o. Are we left to salvaging conduit fittings from electrical
contractors? I have tons of these things in coffee cans in my basement if
anyone really wants to use them.
These clamps are right at home running conduit to my air-conditioner, but if
you do a risk analysis of using them on the firewall with your family
sitting behind them, what value would you place on buying something actually
made for the firewall for a few dollars more?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago using
the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment.
I was cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast steel
compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would actually burn
very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the steel tube/forged
fittings which were much more expensive but would not burn.
I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention it.
Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
Just what I was told on this list back then.
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same opening
which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It really doesn't
matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during cranking. At idle on
the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition noise from one ignition.
No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
I don't have mags.
Ken
>
>
>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>
>
> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough current
here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires
separate?
>
> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make
> 2
more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> Jim McChesney
> Tucson, AZ
> RV-7A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
This is what I used and I like them. I bought the middle size, hoping that
two of them would be big enough and that it would be cheaper than the bigger
ones. Hindsight says that the biggest ones would have been better for me.
Terry
RV-8A
Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
These are what I installed. Buy direct from EPM or get them through
Aircraft Spruce.
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
The idea here is to buy time to shut off the fuel and get the airplane
on the ground in the event of an in flight engine fire. Aluminum,
plastic, brass, and zinc/aluminum (conduit fittings) will fail
catastrophically well below the temperature at which gasoline burns.
Steel (stainless or non-stainless) will withstand that temperature much
longer, allowing for a better chance at surviving the situation.
It is called a "firewall" for a reason.
Steve A
RV-6A
Mike Kimball wrote:
>
> Anybody have a web link to the proper penetration fittings?
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
In a message dated 02/01/2008 3:40:03 PM Central Standard Time, longg(at)pjm.com
writes:
I understand the experimental mentality and all, but this crap is so
cheap-o. Are we left to salvaging conduit fittings from electrical
contractors?
OK folks- I've been watching this pass-thru stuff for quite a while now
(years, in fact) and while building my plane, solved the issue to my satisfaction
with the following:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5006_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5006)
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5007_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5007)
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5517_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5517)
For use by a fellow builder, I've had additional copies of this made in the
size shown and slightly larger to accomodate fatter/more wires, and the extra
parts I had cut have been hanging on the wall of my shop for some time, looking
for a home. I had no intention of "marketing" this, but if there is any
interest, I'd gladly send what I have to those interested, provided my costs were
covered. I have theorized some improvements and might even consider going
into production if y'all think it would be useful. I could provide fotos of the
newer installation to those interested.
It ain't rocket science, it just works...
>From The PossumWorks in TN,
Mark Phillips, RV-6A N51PW "Mojo" (she's a good girl!)
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
For some reason this link hasn't worked for the last few days from
Vansairforce.net but I have just recently bought one of their stainless
firewall penetrations. They only have 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" i.d. versions.
Kind of pricey but will certainly do the job.
Also just ordered a similar 0.90 i.d. firewall penetration from SafeAir1 at
http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm.
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wiring and plumbing
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
>>>Behalf Of Mike
>>>Kimball
>>>Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 4:26 PM
>>>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Anybody have a web link to the proper penetration fittings?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>>longg(at)pjm.com
>>>Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 12:35 PM
>>>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>>>
>>>
>>>I understand the experimental mentality and all, but this crap is so
>>>cheap-o. Are we left to salvaging conduit fittings from electrical
>>>contractors? I have tons of these things in coffee cans in
>>>my basement
>>>if anyone really wants to use them.
>>>
>>>These clamps are right at home running conduit to my air-conditioner,
>>>but if you do a risk analysis of using them on the firewall with your
>>>family sitting behind them, what value would you place on buying
>>>something actually made for the firewall for a few dollars more?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>Behalf Of Bill
>>>Schlatterer
>>>Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:34 PM
>>>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>>>
>>>
>>>Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago
>>>using the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the
>>>attachment.
>>>I was cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast
>>>steel compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would
>>>actually burn very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the
>>>steel tube/forged fittings which were much more expensive
>>>but would not
>>>burn.
>>>
>>>I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention
>>>it. Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
>>>
>>>Just what I was told on this list back then.
>>>
>>>Bill S
>>>7a
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>Behalf Of Ken
>>>Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
>>>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>>>
>>>
>>>FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same
>>>opening which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It
>>>really doesn't matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during
>>>cranking. At idle on the ground I can hear a bit of
>>>electronic ignition
>>>noise from one ignition. No alternator noise at all so I'd
>>>do it again.
>>>I don't have mags.
>>>Ken
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if
>>>sensor leads are
>>>>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>>>>> Dale Ensing
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main
>>>bus and e-bus
>>>feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine
>>>sensors). No
>>>really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough
>>>current here for me to need to make a separate penetration
>>>to keep these
>>>wires separate?
>>>>
>>>> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do
>>>need to make
>>>> 2
>>>more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Jim McChesney
>>>> Tucson, AZ
>>>> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | RYO Marker Beacon Antenna |
>
>Bob Archer makes one out of copper tape and it is 40 inches long.
>Apparently that is the proper length for 1/4 wavelength. Here is a link to
>a document with information about his antennas for composite airplanes and
>contact info for him. He might even be willing to talk to you about making
>your own even though he'll be talking himself out of a sale.
>
>Mike
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
>Davis
>Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:27 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: RYO Marker Beacon Antenna
>
>
>I have been told that you can make an acceptable marker beacon antenna
>from a stripped piece of approx 40" coax, mounted horizontally within a
>fiberglass wingtip. So my questions are -
>1. Is 40" the correct length?
yes. 30" works too, 50" also works. Marker
beacons are an exceedingly robust systems.
You're flying over the antenna at less than
1000 feet and the transmitter is on the order
of 2-5 watts. A HUGE signal compared to tapping
an RCO out 100 miles or flying a high-altitude
VOR at the fringes of its service area.
>2. Is it acceptable to strip only the outer coax covering and the shield
>material leaving the insulator in place which surrounds the center
>conductor?
yes.
It's a low-risk experiment. Get close and go fly it.
Do some passes over the markers at 1500' AGL and
see how the lights behave.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 question |
>I'm planning on initially equipping my RV-7 for day/night VFR flight with
>one magneto and one Lightspeed electronic ignition, turn coordinator, one
>VHF radio and transponder. Once I get comfortable in the airplane (and
>the budget allows), I plan on buying all the goodies to make her an IFR
>bird and re-doing the panel with a GNS-430 and Dynon D-100 (or similar).
>
>Bob describes the Z-13/8 architecture as "dual-layer" so my plan was to
>build the "Z-13" part of the system initially and leave the "/8" part of
>it out until I get to the point where my bank account and experience allow
>me to make her IFR. It looks like everything on the "/8" side of the
>system is in front of the firewall (except for the wires running to the
>"AUX ALT" switch and the additional loadmeter/ammeter) so I'm thinking
>this is a good plan. By buying big enough fuse blocks for future
>expension and sizing the main alternator appropriately, it seems
>doable. Anyone ever do this, think about doing it or have advice one way
>or the other? Please feel free to shoot holes in my thinking. I did a
>search on the site but came up empty. Thanks.
Sounds like a plan . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wireless Thermometers |
>Hi:
>
>Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
>your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
>
>Thanks
>
It won't be a problem. Bluetooth accessories are outside
the frequencies of interest for aircraft also.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bob noffs" <icubob(at)newnorth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firewall penetration |
i guess i have to ask why you cant slip a fire sleeve over this fitting and
the wire and use hose clamps to hold it in place. if the sleeve protects
gasoline in a rubber line it should work with these fittings. these fittings
are very compact and easy to work with and sorry to say dirt cheap.
bob noffs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
> Just FWIW, I posted a similar firewall penetration a couple years ago
> using
> the cheap pot metal electrical connectors shown in the attachment. I was
> cautioned to AVOID any of the fittings that were made of cast steel
> compounds (gray looking pot metal material) because they would actually
> burn
> very well under modest flame. Was told to ONLY use the steel tube/forged
> fittings which were much more expensive but would not burn.
>
> I did not put a torch on them to find out but thought I might mention it.
> Pictures of the rejected fittings attached.
>
> Just what I was told on this list back then.
>
> Bill S
> 7a
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 8:52 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Firewall penetration
>
>
> FWIW I ran everything including starter fat wire through the same opening
> which is a hardware store steel towel rack/grab bar elbow. It really
> doesn't
> matter if an engine sensor is misreading a bit during cranking. At idle on
> the ground I can hear a bit of electronic ignition noise from one
> ignition.
> No alternator noise at all so I'd do it again.
> I don't have mags.
> Ken
>>
>>
>>> Be aware of possible impact on engine sensor data if sensor leads are
>>> too close to high current (fat) wires.
>>> Dale Ensing
>>>
>>
>>
>> Hadn't thought of this. I had planned on running my main bus and e-bus
> feed lines through this pass through (along with all engine sensors). No
> really fat wires (like starter or B-lead) but would there be enough
> current
> here for me to need to make a separate penetration to keep these wires
> separate?
>>
>> Really appreciate all the input so far. If I actually do need to make 2
> more penetrations then maybe this is worthwhile ($7 vs $100).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --------
>> Jim McChesney
>> Tucson, AZ
>> RV-7A Finishing Kit
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wireless Thermometers |
Thanks all.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wireless Thermometers
>
>
> >Hi:
> >
> >Does anyone know if using a wireless thermometer or temperature probe in
> >your plane causes any problems whatsoever while flying.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
>
> It won't be a problem. Bluetooth accessories are outside
> the frequencies of interest for aircraft also.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Firewall penetration |
From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Bill and others,
IMHO, I went thru the same thing several years ago. I changed my
heater box for the same reason. I now have stainless steel in place of
the aluminum unit. I went to the aviation section of McMaster Carr and
bought a stainless steel handicap grab bar. It was a short unit but it
worked out very nice, the flange is welded on and I used the 90* end.
This allowed me to get all the wires forward. It is amazing how many
wires go there from the instrumentation we use today. I then used two
fire shield lengths / diameters to close off the opening. I am going to
fill any remaining space with RTV copper hi-temp silicone today. I will
use safety wire to provide the remaining squeeze to seal it wiring to the
fire shield. You can see it on my web site
www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . That may help you in the decision to
keep the unwanted stuff up front and not on your feet.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
RV9 A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | Firewall penetration |
Try, http://websites.expercraft.com/jimn/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=11035
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H
Nelson
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetration
Bill and others,
IMHO, I went thru the same thing several years ago. I changed my
heater box for the same reason. I now have stainless steel in place of
the aluminum unit. I went to the aviation section of McMaster Carr and
bought a stainless steel handicap grab bar. It was a short unit but it
worked out very nice, the flange is welded on and I used the 90* end.
This allowed me to get all the wires forward. It is amazing how many
wires go there from the instrumentation we use today. I then used two
fire shield lengths / diameters to close off the opening. I am going to
fill any remaining space with RTV copper hi-temp silicone today. I will
use safety wire to provide the remaining squeeze to seal it wiring to the
fire shield. You can see it on my web site
www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . That may help you in the decision to
keep the unwanted stuff up front and not on your feet.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
RV9 A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
I have a power question:
The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
There is also a power input for Nav and com
You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
You get a message on the display that says com failure
However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is blank.
Question is:
Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with 14
volts at the same time??
I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and EX500
which will both be running off a booster which is taking the aircraft normal
14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with the dc50.
The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com radio
since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to the unit.
However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav portion of
the sl30 if possible.
I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the hard way
that it does not !!
Thanks
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Is 10,000 uF enough? |
From: | "ianwilson2" <ianwilson2(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm (still!) working on a list of parts for my Jabiru X-Air, based on Z-20. B&C
have a kit of parts (504-1) which includes the alternator disconnect relay,
OVM-14 and a 10,000uF capacitor. Z-20 and Note 20, both call for a 20,000 to
50,000uF capacitor. Do you think that I would I be OK with the 10,000 capacitor
in the PMOV kit, or should I order the parts independently and go with a 20,000
- 50,000 uF capacitor?
Many thanks.
Ian Wilson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162151#162151
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Is 10,000 uF enough? |
>
>I'm (still!) working on a list of parts for my Jabiru X-Air, based on
>Z-20. B&C have a kit of parts (504-1) which includes the alternator
>disconnect relay, OVM-14 and a 10,000uF capacitor. Z-20 and Note 20, both
>call for a 20,000 to 50,000uF capacitor. Do you think that I would I be
>OK with the 10,000 capacitor in the PMOV kit, or should I order the parts
>independently and go with a 20,000 - 50,000 uF capacitor?
The "rule of thumb" for filtering is 1,000 uF per
1A of alternator output. This is not critical.
The 10,000 uF is fine but if you want to put a
bigger one on, it's okay too.
Keep in mind that the Z-figures are primarily
intended to illustrate architecture. They're
not intended to suggest a bill of materials.
If anything you find in a z-figure argues with
the manufacturer's suggested parts, the
manufacturer's recommendations should prevail.
You may find perfectly valid reasons for mixing
and matching various accessories. For example,
circuit breakers and fuses are generally inter-
changeable, e-mags and p-mags can be used on
virtually any of the z-figures where those
products will fit the engine, etc.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: SL30 nav com radio |
>I have a power question:
>The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
>
>There is also a power input for Nav and com
>
>You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
>
>You get a message on the display that says com failure
>
>
>However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is blank.
>
>Question is:
>
>Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with 14
>volts at the same time??
>
>I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and EX500
>which will both be running off a booster which is taking the aircraft
>normal 14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with the dc50.
>
>The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com
>radio since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to the unit.
>
>However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav portion
>of the sl30 if possible.
>
>I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the hard
>way that it does not !!
Your marching off into unproven territory. Since
your chosen configuration for power generation
and distribution is not in the bag of tricks for
folks who do this for a living in TC aircraft,
that combination (along with its unique failure
modes) has never (to my knowledge) been explored
for robustness.
Unless someone here on the List has an intimate
working knowledge of this products internal
characteristics and limits, your most reliable
and probably the only accurate source of information
will come from the factory.
I'm a bit confused tho . . . why not run both
sides from 14V if that's the ship's main source?
I've looked over a few marketing blurbs for this
suite of equipments and it's not obvious to me
why the nav/com cannot be operated totally
from the 14 system.
Bob. . .
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: SL30 nav com radio |
From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
The data output from the SL-30 will be to standard spec regardless
of whether it is run from 14 or 28. It will be understood by any other
box, even one running 400 cycle 3 phase. I would think it a very bad
idea to have half the SL-30 on 14 and the other half on 28.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162172#162172
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: SL30 nav com radio |
Jeff:
I can't answer your question but if you call Garmin at 800.525.6726
x3991, you should get to the AT install/service techs at Garmin. These
are the guys that came over from Apollo when Garmin bought them.
Terry, or John there could answer your question, and if they don't know
they will get hold of the engineers and get the question answered for
you. If you don't get them on that number call 888.442.7646, follow the
prompts until you get the Garmin tech-reps and ask them to put you thru
to the AT guys. I've just spent the last week with them on a
complicated SL30 install and found them to be very knowledgeable and
helpful.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeffrey W. Skiba
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: SL30 nav com radio
I have a power question:
The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
There is also a power input for Nav and com
You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
You get a message on the display that says com failure
However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is
blank.
Question is:
Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with
14 volts at the same time??
I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and
EX500 which will both be running off a booster which is taking the
aircraft normal 14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with
the dc50.
The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com
radio since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to
the unit.
However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav
portion of the sl30 if possible.
I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the
hard way that it does not !!
Thanks
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fire wall penetration |
From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Bruce for the "direct to" on the fire wall pass through.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 02/02/08 |
HI All-
I went through the same process, with virtually the same result. The only
real differences are to say that I was also able to run my engine control
cables through the grab bar fixtures, and that I went to the aviation
safety dept of the local Lowes and bought a caulk gun sized tube of
intumescent caulk to seal the works up. I think they called it fire block.
As Bob has previously pointed out, this stuff will swell up and fill all
sorts of gaps when heated sufficiently. It also costs a fraction of what
the re-marketer with the SS cabin heat boxes charges.
FWIW-
>
> Bill and others,
> IMHO, I went thru the same thing several years ago. I changed my
> heater box for the same reason. I now have stainless steel in place of
> the aluminum unit. I went to the aviation section of McMaster Carr and
> bought a stainless steel handicap grab bar. It was a short unit but it
> worked out very nice, the flange is welded on and I used the 90* end.
> This allowed me to get all the wires forward. It is amazing how many
> wires go there from the instrumentation we use today. I then used two
> fire shield lengths / diameters to close off the opening. I am going to
> fill any remaining space with RTV copper hi-temp silicone today. I will
> use safety wire to provide the remaining squeeze to seal it wiring to the
> fire shield. You can see it on my web site
> www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . That may help you in the decision to
> keep the unwanted stuff up front and not on your feet.
>
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
>I have a power question:
>The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
>
>There is also a power input for Nav and com
>
>You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
>
>You get a message on the display that says com failure
>
>
>However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is blank.
>
>Question is:
>
>Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with 14
>volts at the same time??
>
>I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and EX500
>which will both be running off a booster which is taking the aircraft
>normal 14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with the dc50.
>
>The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com
>radio since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to the
unit.
>
>However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav portion
>of the sl30 if possible.
>
>I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the hard
>way that it does not !!
I'm a bit confused tho . . . why not run both
sides from 14V if that's the ship's main source?
I've looked over a few marketing blurbs for this
suite of equipments and it's not obvious to me
why the nav/com cannot be operated totally
from the 14 system.
Bob. . .
The #1 reason I want to run 2 voltages is that if the DC50 data coupler
device for the AVidyne ex500 (they share one VHF antenna) looses power it
states it will be Damaged if the com radio (sl30) tries to transmit without
the DC50 powered.
Hence run the sl30 com portion from the same power booster that runs the
DC50 (per dc50 install manual), so that if the dc50 looses power the SL30
also does hence protecting any damage to the DC50.
I will try to call the AT guys at Garmin latter this week to see if the sl30
can be powered in this fashion safely
(thanks for the tip Mark)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
It would be relatively easy to setup a relay to provide power to the SL30.
The 28V bus provides the control signal for the relay - driving the coil.
The relay switching the 14V feed to the COM. If 28V power is lost, the
relay opens, disabling the COM portion of the radio.
Since COM functionality isn't really a safety of flight issue, I wouldn't
be concerned about the added parts count associated with having an extra
relay in the circuit.
You could also (instead) use 28V to control a relay in line with the PTT
circuit on the COM portion of the radio. Drive the power input to the COM
portion straight through with 14V. Then even after loss of 28V power you
could still safely receive on the COM - the transmitter would be disabled
- possibly useful.
Matt-
>
>
>>I have a power question:
>
>>The sl30 can accept power either 14v or 28 v
>>
>>There is also a power input for Nav and com
>>
>>You CAN power just the nav line and get the nav functions to work.
>>
>>You get a message on the display that says com failure
>>
>>
>>However you can NOT power just the com portion as the display is blank.
>>
>>Question is:
>>
>>Can you power the com portion with 28 volts and the nav portion with 14
>>volts at the same time??
>>
>>I ask since this sl30 will be connected to a DC50 comdat coupler and
>> EX500
>>which will both be running off a booster which is taking the aircraft
>>normal 14 volt system to 28 to get the ex500 powered along with the dc50.
>>
>>The DC50 box stress to power the unit from the same breaker as the com
>>radio since transmitting with the dc50 unpowered will cause damage to the
> unit.
>>
>>However if I lose the booster I would still like to have the nav portion
>>of the sl30 if possible.
>>
>>I would think it would work but do not really want to find out the hard
>>way that it does not !!
>
> I'm a bit confused tho . . . why not run both
> sides from 14V if that's the ship's main source?
> I've looked over a few marketing blurbs for this
> suite of equipments and it's not obvious to me
> why the nav/com cannot be operated totally
> from the 14 system.
>
> Bob. . .
>
> The #1 reason I want to run 2 voltages is that if the DC50 data coupler
> device for the AVidyne ex500 (they share one VHF antenna) looses power it
> states it will be Damaged if the com radio (sl30) tries to transmit
> without
> the DC50 powered.
>
> Hence run the sl30 com portion from the same power booster that runs the
> DC50 (per dc50 install manual), so that if the dc50 looses power the SL30
> also does hence protecting any damage to the DC50.
>
> I will try to call the AT guys at Garmin latter this week to see if the
> sl30
> can be powered in this fashion safely
> (thanks for the tip Mark)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com> |
Hi all
I've got a Magnaflite MZ6222 starter on my IO-320, Odyessy PC680 battery, #2
welding cable from battery to master contactor and to firewall earth (15"
and 12" respectively), 14" copper braid from firewall earth to sump bolt at
rear of engine, 6" copper bus bar from master contactor to starter
contactor, 24" #4 Tefzel from starter contactor to starter and am having
problems as follows.
The engine has very good compressions and a new bottom end so is tight but
easy enough to turn over by hand. Symptoms are that the starter finds it
very hard to get the engine over the first compression even when the engine
is warm, but when turning rotates the prop very very fast. The prop is wood
so very little flywheel effect.
The starter was "as new" second hand and has no obvious faults.
Questions: Are these symptoms typical of magnaflites in general or could
mine be faulty? If so what is a decent starter (must be short version as the
fuel feed from the injector to the flow divider runs behind the starter)
that doesn't need engine mods or rewiring. Alternatively how can I diagnose
if I'm losing voltage somewhere and/or check the starter? All connections
are checked and good and runs as short as possible.
Any ideas/suggestions gratefully received
Best regards
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
PRetty handy wire size calculator spreadsheet is attached. Has anyone used it before?
I've been playing around with it some and it looks to be pretty accurate.
There may be a newer version, but I haven't yet been able to locate the author
(Scott Dahlgren) to ask...
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162223#162223
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wire_size_107.xls
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Z-13/8 RE: P/E-Mags Bus Feed |
Looking carefully at the drawing the inset in the lower right side
shows the P-Mag fed from the "Main Bus" and the E-Mag fed through the
S700-2-10 switch from the "Battery Bus". Then if you look at the upper
left hand part of the drawing at the "Main Battery Bus" you see both the
right and left ignitions coming off this bus. I think my question is
this...Is the "Battery Bus" and the "Main Bus" nomenclature in the lower
right inset really the "Main Battery Bus" and not the Battery Bus and
the Main Power Distribution Bus? Probably a dumb question for anyone
than has done more electrical work than changing a light bulb. Do not
archive.
Jim Thorne
RV7A CHD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Pengilly" <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
Peter,
Sounds like your starter is at fault. Skytec have a very good trouble
shooting page on their website
(http://www.skytecair.com/Troubleshooting.htm), but I suspect you will
be in for a new starter. You could always fit a Skytec or B&C starter
for around $500 + all the usual. If you go the Skytec route, be aware
that their latest "straight" offering (I think the 149-NL) is longer
than the others (HT, PM or LS models), so you will need to ensure you
have sufficient room.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Mather
Sent: 03 February 2008 19:46
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter Woes
Hi all
I've got a Magnaflite MZ6222 starter on my IO-320, Odyessy PC680
battery, #2
welding cable from battery to master contactor and to firewall earth
(15"
and 12" respectively), 14" copper braid from firewall earth to sump bolt
at
rear of engine, 6" copper bus bar from master contactor to starter
contactor, 24" #4 Tefzel from starter contactor to starter and am having
problems as follows.
The engine has very good compressions and a new bottom end so is tight
but
easy enough to turn over by hand. Symptoms are that the starter finds it
very hard to get the engine over the first compression even when the
engine
is warm, but when turning rotates the prop very very fast. The prop is
wood
so very little flywheel effect.
The starter was "as new" second hand and has no obvious faults.
Questions: Are these symptoms typical of magnaflites in general or could
mine be faulty? If so what is a decent starter (must be short version as
the
fuel feed from the injector to the flow divider runs behind the starter)
that doesn't need engine mods or rewiring. Alternatively how can I
diagnose
if I'm losing voltage somewhere and/or check the starter? All
connections
are checked and good and runs as short as possible.
Any ideas/suggestions gratefully received
Best regards
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | leaking battery? |
>
>Comments/Questions: Bob,
>I have an RV-8A with two batteries (Odyssey PC560, I think). They are
>mounted on the side, under the floor panels. I am in the process of a
>condition inspection and was surprised to find that a liquid (now dry) in
>the region of the battery had removed the wash primer used by Van for the
>quickbuild kits. I removed one of the batteries where the liquid had
>pooled, as it appeared that this could have been battery acid, however,
>the battery looks perfect and I see no evidence of leaking (I assume that
>this is not possible anyway.
>It is possible that was I am seeing is a result of the plane being cleaned
>with an alkaline-based cleaner that ran down the interior of the
>fuselage? Any other ideas?
>
>Thanks much for your time.
I think it unlikely. RG batteries contain so little
liquid that you would have to squeeze the plate/
separator array with a great deal of pressure in
order that you recover any liquid.
I think it more likely that you're seeing the
results of a pooling of condensation. The interior
surfaces of every airplane gets wet when descending
from cold flight environments into warmer and
moister airport environments.
The 'hell hole' behind the rear pressure bulkhead
of a biz-jet literally rains inside as the airplane
descends. We had to build rain "gutters and downspouts"
into certain areas of the cabin, under the upholstery
to prevent water dripping on the passengers during
descent.
In any case, where ever the liquid came from
it wasn't from the battery.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
>
>It would be relatively easy to setup a relay to provide power to the SL30.
> The 28V bus provides the control signal for the relay - driving the coil.
> The relay switching the 14V feed to the COM. If 28V power is lost, the
>relay opens, disabling the COM portion of the radio.
>
>Since COM functionality isn't really a safety of flight issue, I wouldn't
>be concerned about the added parts count associated with having an extra
>relay in the circuit.
>
>You could also (instead) use 28V to control a relay in line with the PTT
>circuit on the COM portion of the radio. Drive the power input to the COM
>portion straight through with 14V. Then even after loss of 28V power you
>could still safely receive on the COM - the transmitter would be disabled
>- possibly useful.
>
>
>Matt-
Good thinking!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 RE: P/E-Mags Bus Feed |
>Looking carefully at the drawing the inset in the lower right side shows
>the P-Mag fed from the "Main Bus" and the E-Mag fed through the S700-2-10
>switch from the "Battery Bus". Then if you look at the upper left hand
>part of the drawing at the "Main Battery Bus" you see both the right and
>left ignitions coming off this bus. I think my question is this...Is the
>"Battery Bus" and the "Main Bus" nomenclature in the lower right inset
>really the "Main Battery Bus" and not the Battery Bus and the Main Power
>Distribution Bus?
The distribution suggestions you've cited are
artifacts left over from the Pre-Emag era where
individuals with electrically dependant engines
are encourage to run all engine feeds from the
battery buss. This would include up to 2 two
electronic ignitions including E-mags.
In the new era of best-we-know-to-do for
aircraft ignitions, the earlier architecture
still holds for two E-mags. However, the
special nature of the P-mag's internal power
supply combined with the owner/operator's
desire to occasionally test a P-mag for
full functionality, running the P-mags
(whether one or two devices) from the main
bus keeps the switching simple while allowing
for the occasional testing of the P-Mag's
alternator.
So the short answer to your question is, it
depends. If you have any combination of ignition
system products that depend on the ship's
electrical system, run them from the battery
bus. If you have one or two P-mags, run them
from the main bus.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z-13/8 RE: P/E-Mags Bus Feed |
>
>Devices hanging off the battery bus (like EMags or electronic ignition)
>don't have any way to be shut down when the master is switched off. Each
>of the above must therefore have it's own switch to de-energize that
>circuit, right?
Seems like the way to go. If you were flying a J-3
with NO electrical system, you'd still have a couple
of switches that control the magnetos. Further,
operation of those switches would be addressed in
your pre-fight/post-flight protocols.
The supporting simple-idea is that one selects
the accessories that are needed to meet
design/mission goals for the aircraft. Then
figure out ways to minimize weight, parts
count, pilot workload, costs of ownership,
and still have an acceptable failure mode
effects analysis (favorable = failure tolerant).
The collection of switches, the things they
control, the manner in which they are operated
and the sources for power are all ingredients
that go into the recipe for success. Further,
there are MANY recipes for success that select
from a HUGE array of ingredients.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator |
spreadsheet
Life is an estimate. This is one of those things that looks useful up
front, but it's like counting calories. Naturally, the total weight of
all your wire before the install will differ greatly after the install.
The best approach might be to use this at the end. Collect all your
receipts for wire purchases, subtract the waste and enter the balance.
Ok, you'll have your estimated wire weight and now you can decide
whether using that #2 cable for the #19 rear battery install was too
heavy and then rip it all out :)
Sort of like having concrete rails on my snow sled - but fun.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:36 PM
Subject: [Probable SPAM] AeroElectric-List: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size
Calculator spreadsheet
-->
PRetty handy wire size calculator spreadsheet is attached. Has anyone
used it before? I've been playing around with it some and it looks to be
pretty accurate.
There may be a newer version, but I haven't yet been able to locate the
author (Scott Dahlgren) to ask...
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162223#162223
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wire_size_107.xls
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
>
>It would be relatively easy to setup a relay to provide power to the SL30.
> The 28V bus provides the control signal for the relay - driving the coil.
> The relay switching the 14V feed to the COM. If 28V power is lost, the
>relay opens, disabling the COM portion of the radio.
>
>Since COM functionality isn't really a safety of flight issue, I wouldn't
>be concerned about the added parts count associated with having an extra
>relay in the circuit.
>
>You could also (instead) use 28V to control a relay in line with the PTT
>circuit on the COM portion of the radio. Drive the power input to the COM
>portion straight through with 14V. Then even after loss of 28V power you
>could still safely receive on the COM - the transmitter would be disabled
>- possibly useful.
>
>
>Matt-
Good thinking!
Bob . . .
Well, I got a hold of the AT guys at garmin per Matt's info (thanks again
Matt)
They advised that you CAN NOT power the com and nav sides from different
voltages, if you do you radio will let out all the "magic smoke" and no
longer function.
So I will be doing something like the above to safe guard the DC50 box.
Thanks again to all.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Hinchcliff" <cfi(at)conwaycorp.net> |
Subject: | TDR-950 Contacts |
Can somebody tell me where I can find replacement contacts for a Collins
TDR-950 transponder connector?
Thanks!
Michael H.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: TDR-950 Contacts |
>Can somebody tell me where I can find replacement contacts for a Collins
>TDR-950 transponder connector?
>
>Thanks!
>Michael H.
Are there any markings on the connector that would tell us
what it's pedigree might be? Can you send us a picture
of the housing?
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | MINIMUM INSTRUMENT AND EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS |
2/6/2008
Hello Raymond, You wrote "....prepare for the worst." Not a bad slogan for
someone living in Minnesota, particularly this time of year. I spent the
first 17 years of my life as a Minnesota farm boy before I enlisted in the
US Navy in 1950 and vowed to never return to Minnesota in the winter time
again. Of course going through boot camp in the winter time at Great Lakes
Naval Recruit Training Center in Illinois did not endear me to that state
either.
Now to your question -- You wrote: "After skimming 91.205 and 8130.2F I was
not able to find anything that confirms or conflicts with the equipment
requirements listed in your table for experimental airworthiness certified
aircraft operating in VFR day conditions. Could (you) cite your supporting
information?"
The FAR's are written in a denial or forbidden format (lawyerese). The
sections state "No person may ........." and then go on to say what no
person is permitted to do at all or unless some specific criteria is met.
Essentially if one cannot find something in the FAR's that forbid one to do
something then that something is permitted to be done.
So the permission, if one is inclined to use that concept, to fly an amateur
built experimental aircraft in day VFR conditions with absolutely none of
the FAR 91.205** listed equipment or instruments installed is found here in
this statement in that aircraft's Operating Limitations portion of its
Special Airworthiness Certificate:
"After completion of Phase I flight testing, unless appropriately equipped
for night and/or instrument flight in accordance with 91.205, this aircraft
is to be operated under VFR, day only."
This is a very backward and awkward way, to normal people, for the
bureaucrats and lawyers to say it is OK to fly day VFR with nothing
required, but if you fly night or instruments you must look to 91.205 for
what is required.
If one thinks back to the early days of the amateur built experimental
aircraft movement you can realize that this freedom to fly with essentially
nothing in the way of equipment was not unreasonable. Look at the Breezy
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/kitspages/breezy.php for example --
pretty hard to put much in the way of instrumentation or equipment in that
airplane.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
**PS: FAR Sec. 91.205 is not the whole story regarding equipping amateur
built experimental aircraft. Here is a quote from the latest version of my
table"
"However, depending upon other portions of the FAR's, certain items in
certain circumstances must not only be installed in amateur built
experimental aircraft, but must interface properly with ATC (Air Traffic
Control) equipment, other aircraft, or other entities external to the
aircraft. Altitude encoders, Transponders, communication radios, exterior
lighting, some IFR navigation equipment, and ELT's (Emergency Locator
Transmitters) are examples of such equipment. Usually TSO performance
criteria are cited to ensure this compatibility compliance. The FAR's must
be consulted for proper compliance in these arenas.
Therefore, the builder could expect that evidence that this type of
equipment in the aircraft is acceptable to the FAA could be required at some
point. The burden for complying with the provisions of the aircraft's
Special Airworthiness Certificate (which includes the Operating
Limitations), and the relevant FAR's, rests with the builder / pilot. "
----------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: MINIMUM INSTRUMENT AND EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
> Greetings,
>
> Thanks for sending me the instrument and equipment requirement list.
>
> After skimming 91.205 and 8130.2F I was not able to find anything that
> confirms or conflicts with the equipment requirements listed in your table
> for experimental airworthiness certified aircraft operating in VFR day
> conditions. Could cite your supporting information?
>
> Thanks,
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mlas(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | SL30 nav com radio |
I would think that using two antennas would be a much easier solution
plus you won't have to deal with the antenna switcher that will
certainly fail (5 failures to date on 5 different airplanes). Pulse it
is much less expensive then the switcher arrangement.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey W. Skiba
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 8:23 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: SL30 nav com radio
>
>It would be relatively easy to setup a relay to provide power to the
SL30.
> The 28V bus provides the control signal for the relay - driving the
coil.
> The relay switching the 14V feed to the COM. If 28V power is lost,
the
>relay opens, disabling the COM portion of the radio.
>
>Since COM functionality isn't really a safety of flight issue, I
wouldn't
>be concerned about the added parts count associated with having an
extra
>relay in the circuit.
>
>You could also (instead) use 28V to control a relay in line with the
PTT
>circuit on the COM portion of the radio. Drive the power input to the
COM
>portion straight through with 14V. Then even after loss of 28V power
you
>could still safely receive on the COM - the transmitter would be
disabled
>- possibly useful.
>
>
>Matt-
Good thinking!
Bob . . .
Well, I got a hold of the AT guys at garmin per Matt's info (thanks
again
Matt)
They advised that you CAN NOT power the com and nav sides from different
voltages, if you do you radio will let out all the "magic smoke" and no
longer function.
So I will be doing something like the above to safe guard the DC50 box.
Thanks again to all.
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
10/2/2007 11:10 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: TDR-950 transponder connector |
Any avionics shop can help you. It's a standard (for avionics) Molex deal. Try
local at first, if not call any of the big Internet avionics shops, Gulf Coast,
Pacific Coast, Avionics West Inc.
For Collins parts (which is out of production), call S-TEC; They own the transponder
product line. However S-TEC sold the parts business, the existing inventory
of ONS - Old New Stock. Call S-TEC (autopilots) if you need parts. They
can direct you to who has parts. However like I said the connector pin is a standard
deal.
I bought a used TDR-950 and needed the nylon part and pins. A local avionics
shop had a used connector laying around in a drawer, and new pins where in stock.
It cost me a few bucks. George
>From: "Michael Hinchcliff" <cfi(at)conwaycorp.net>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: TDR-950 Contacts
>Can somebody tell me where I can find replacement contacts for a
>Collins TDR-950 transponder connector?
>
>Thanks! Michael H.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Weight? Who cares? The point is that one can use the spreadsheet to quickly compute
Wire Size given Current (amps) and Length.
Jay
> Life is an estimate. This is one of those things that looks useful up
> front, but it's like counting calories. Naturally, the total weight of
> all your wire before the install will differ greatly after the install.
> The best approach might be to use this at the end. Collect all your
> receipts for wire purchases, subtract the waste and enter the balance.
> Ok, you'll have your estimated wire weight and now you can decide
> whether using that #2 cable for the #19 rear battery install was too
> heavy and then rip it all out :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162731#162731
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
jayb wrote:
>
> Weight? Who cares? The point is that one can use the spreadsheet to quickly compute
Wire Size given Current (amps) and Length.
>
> Jay
>
>
>> Life is an estimate. This is one of those things that looks useful up
>> front, but it's like counting calories. Naturally, the total weight of
>> all your wire before the install will differ greatly after the install.
>> The best approach might be to use this at the end. Collect all your
>> receipts for wire purchases, subtract the waste and enter the balance.
>> Ok, you'll have your estimated wire weight and now you can decide
>> whether using that #2 cable for the #19 rear battery install was too
>> heavy and then rip it all out :)
It's not inconceivable that some builders would want to use the smallest
wire possible, but I would think that it would be to keep large bundles
to a manageable size more than weight concerns. To insure that I didn't
sell myself short, or waste wire, I created the spreadsheet at
http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Library/WireSelection.ods
You first input your ship's nominal voltage. Then for each device, you
input the round-trip wire run length and the amount of current the
device draws. It displays how much voltage will be available to the
device for each of several wire AWG sizes. The "best" size will drop
between 2% and 4% of the voltage in the wire. These choices are shown
as green. Those choices highlighted in yellow will drop between 4% and
5%. Anything that would drop more than 5% of the voltage in the wire is
likely to overheat, and is shown in red.
--
http://www.ronpaultimeline.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Z-25 (Self-excitation) Question |
If the self-excitation feature (Figure Z-25) for the SD-8 means that the SD-8 is
"on" whenever the engine is running, what purpose does the Aux Alt Off/On switch
serve? Further, would that switch have to be "On" in order for the crowbar
over voltage module to be able to function?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z-25 (Self-excitation) Question |
One more thing...
In Z-25 and in Z-13/8, it appears to me that if the Aux Alt switch is "On," an
over-voltage event--whether caused by the main alternator or the auxiliary alternator--could
cause either the main crowbar or the aux crowbar--or both--to trip,
and you wouldn't necessarily know which was the offending alternator. If
both crowbars tripped, you would be on the battery until you reset one of the
circuit breakers--the correct one. Is this correct?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
What file format is that? EXEL won't open it.
Thanks
Tim Andres
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator
spreadsheet
jayb wrote:
>
> Weight? Who cares? The point is that one can use the spreadsheet to
quickly compute Wire Size given Current (amps) and Length.
>
> Jay
>
>
>> Life is an estimate. This is one of those things that looks useful up
>> front, but it's like counting calories. Naturally, the total weight
of
>> all your wire before the install will differ greatly after the
install.
>> The best approach might be to use this at the end. Collect all your
>> receipts for wire purchases, subtract the waste and enter the
balance.
>> Ok, you'll have your estimated wire weight and now you can decide
>> whether using that #2 cable for the #19 rear battery install was too
>> heavy and then rip it all out :)
It's not inconceivable that some builders would want to use the smallest
wire possible, but I would think that it would be to keep large bundles
to a manageable size more than weight concerns. To insure that I didn't
sell myself short, or waste wire, I created the spreadsheet at
http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Library/WireSelection.ods
You first input your ship's nominal voltage. Then for each device, you
input the round-trip wire run length and the amount of current the
device draws. It displays how much voltage will be available to the
device for each of several wire AWG sizes. The "best" size will drop
between 2% and 4% of the voltage in the wire. These choices are shown
as green. Those choices highlighted in yellow will drop between 4% and
5%. Anything that would drop more than 5% of the voltage in the wire is
likely to overheat, and is shown in red.
--
http://www.ronpaultimeline.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
Tim...
>>What file format is that? EXEL won't open it.
http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Library/WireSelection.ods
It's Open Office...you can get the free, open source program here:
www.openoffice.org
You might want to consider having that around as it is quite useful in
reading and writing to a variety of different program formats. But,
unlike Excel, Open Office WILL open it's competitors files!
From the description of Open Office on their website:
"the product is a multi-platform office productivity suite. It includes
the key desktop applications, such as a word processor, spreadsheet,
presentation manager, and drawing program, with a user interface and
feature set similar to other office suites. Sophisticated and flexible,
OpenOffice.org also works transparently with a variety of file formats,
including those of Microsoft Office"
Harley Dixon
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Andres wrote:
>
> What file format is that? EXEL won't open it.
> Thanks
> Tim Andres
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Z-25 (Self-excitation) Question |
>
>
>One more thing...
>
>In Z-25 and in Z-13/8, it appears to me that if the Aux Alt switch is
>"On," an over-voltage event--whether caused by the main alternator or the
>auxiliary alternator--could cause either the main crowbar or the aux
>crowbar--or both--to trip, and you wouldn't necessarily know which was the
>offending alternator. If both crowbars tripped, you would be on the
>battery until you reset one of the circuit breakers--the correct one. Is
>this correct?
No, the SD-8 is not intended to be run in conjunction
with the main alternator. You turn it on only after
the main alternator has been shown unusable for any
reason, including an OV trip.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
Harley wrote:
>
> Tim...
>
>>> What file format is that? EXEL won't open it.
> http://ernest.isa-geek.org/Delta/Library/WireSelection.ods
>
> It's Open Office...you can get the free, open source program here:
> www.openoffice.org
>
Close, but not quite. Open Office is just ONE of the packages that
support ODF file formats. Word Perfect, Lotus Smartsuite and several
others also support it. Sun Microsystems also has a plug-in for the
Microsoft programs that will enable ODF.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mil-W-5088L Wire Size Calculator spreadsheet |
Tim Andres wrote:
>
> What file format is that? EXEL won't open it.
> Thanks
> Tim Andres
>
ODF. It is an open format supported by a variety of vendors. Microsoft
has chosen not to support it, because they're afraid of the competition
in an open market, but there are a some plug-ins available that will
allow Excel to read it. Here are a couple:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/odf-converter
http://www.sun.com/aboutsun/pr/2007-02/sunflash.20070207.1.xml
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher Barber" <CBarber(at)TexasAttorney.net> |
Subject: | generic regulator pin out |
I am using one LR-3 Regulator and one generic regulator for my z14 duel
alt/duel bat rotary install in my Velocity. When some cash falls out of the
air I will likely get a second LR-3. However, 'til then I need some help on
how to connect the generic unit I have. I assume the field lead connects to
the "F" prong on the generic unit, however, where do the other wires go? My
unit is marked "F", 1, 2, 3, 4 with an additional prong on the bottom of the
unit. I assume the bottom prong is a ground (please correct me if I am
wrong). How do I determine which prongs connect to which prong on the
regulator? Are these prongs and numbers a understood standard? If not, is
there a way to determining what is what? No docs were included with the
regulator. I regret if I missed this in Bobs book and/or webpage. TIA.
All the best,
Chris
Christopher Barber
Attorney and Counselor at Law
5116 Bissonnet, No 418
Bellaire, Texas 77401
Serving the Needs of Senior Texans through
Planning with Purpose
281-464-LAWS (5297)
281-754-4168 Fax
www.TexasAttorney.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | AC 43.13 - Where did it go? |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I wasn't able to find the AC 43.13 (ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND PRACTICESAIRCRAFT
INSPECTION AND REPAIR) anywhere at the FAA website. Maybe I didn't
type in the right search parameters?
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/
I did read over the AEC11 file AC43.13-1B_Change1.pdf. Is this version still in
process of review? If so, what's the timeframe?
Thanks,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162842#162842
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com> |
Subject: | Starter Woes : follow up |
All
Thanks for the suggestions on my initial posting. Outcome as follows:
Used voltmeter to check voltages during cranking - basically no significant
losses between battery and starter BUT voltage collapsed to 7.5 to 8.5 volts
across the battery during cranking. According to Sky-tech's diagnostic chart
this can only be a battery issue.
So used a large car battery to temporarily replace the PC680 and got
acceptable cranking.
So replaced the PC680 - minor improvement over the old battery but not
acceptable
Replaced the Magnaflite with a Sky-tech 149NL which is field wound and not
permanent magnet, great cranking with both old and new battery.
So moral of the story: the PC680 is very marginal with the Magnaflite
starter. The Sky-tech NL is a beautiful bit of kit
Best regards
Peter
____________________________________________________________________________
I've got a Magnaflite MZ6222 starter on my IO-320, Odyessy PC680 battery, #2
welding cable from battery to master contactor and to firewall earth (15"
and 12" respectively), 14" copper braid from firewall earth to sump bolt at
rear of engine, 6" copper bus bar from master contactor to starter
contactor, 24" #4 Tefzel from starter contactor to starter and am having
problems as follows.
The engine has very good compressions and a new bottom end so is tight but
easy enough to turn over by hand. Symptoms are that the starter finds it
very hard to get the engine over the first compression even when the engine
is warm, but when turning rotates the prop very very fast. The prop is wood
so very little flywheel effect.
The starter was "as new" second hand and has no obvious faults.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: AC 43.13 - Where did it go? |
From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
I googled "AC 43.13" and came up with the following link (which seems
usable):
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument
or:
http://tinyurl.com/ynopgy
Also found from http://www.faa.gov/ go to "Regulations and Policies" then
"All other ACs" then entered 43.13 into the search. The first hit is
essentially the same link as above.
Cheers,
Matt-
>
> I wasn't able to find the AC 43.13 (ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND
> PRACTICESAIRCRAFT INSPECTION AND REPAIR) anywhere at the FAA website.
> Maybe I didn't type in the right search parameters?
>
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/
>
> I did read over the AEC11 file AC43.13-1B_Change1.pdf. Is this version
> still in process of review? If so, what's the timeframe?
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162842#162842
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lawrence Handberg <stinsonwagon(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: AC 43.13 - Where did it go? |
Jay,
You're right it's not list in the current section,
but I found it in the history section.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument
Good luck,
--- jayb wrote:
>
>
> I wasn't able to find the AC 43.13 (ACCEPTABLE
> METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND PRACTICESAIRCRAFT
> INSPECTION AND REPAIR) anywhere at the FAA website.
> Maybe I didn't type in the right search parameters?
>
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/
>
> I did read over the AEC11 file
> AC43.13-1B_Change1.pdf. Is this version still in
> process of review? If so, what's the timeframe?
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162842#162842
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: AC 43.13 - Where did it go? |
>
>I wasn't able to find the AC 43.13 (ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND
>PRACTICESAIRCRAFT INSPECTION AND REPAIR) anywhere at the FAA website.
>Maybe I didn't type in the right search parameters?
>
>http://www.airweb.faa.gov/
>
>I did read over the AEC11 file AC43.13-1B_Change1.pdf. Is this version
>still in process of review? If so, what's the timeframe?
>
Goto
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/FAA/
for a number of FAA documents including AC43.13
in it's entirety, an excerpt of electrical section
only and the Change 1 revision pages.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Starter Woes : follow up |
>
>All
>
>Thanks for the suggestions on my initial posting. Outcome as follows:
>
>Used voltmeter to check voltages during cranking - basically no
>significant losses between battery and starter BUT voltage collapsed to
>7.5 to 8.5 volts across the battery during cranking. According to
>Sky-tech's diagnostic chart this can only be a battery issue.
>
>So used a large car battery to temporarily replace the PC680 and got
>acceptable cranking.
>So replaced the PC680 - minor improvement over the old battery but not
>acceptable
>
>Replaced the Magnaflite with a Sky-tech 149NL which is field wound and not
>permanent magnet, great cranking with both old and new battery.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing the out come of your
experiments. It's interesting to know that Sky-tech
now offers a wound field model. When I was working
with B&C we considered a PM version and decided against
it as not consistent with the-best-we-knew-how-to-do.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: generic regulator pin out |
>
>
>I am using one LR-3 Regulator and one generic regulator for my z14 duel
>alt/duel bat rotary install in my Velocity. When some cash falls out of the
>air I will likely get a second LR-3. However, 'til then I need some help on
>how to connect the generic unit I have. I assume the field lead connects to
>the "F" prong on the generic unit, however, where do the other wires go? My
>unit is marked "F", 1, 2, 3, 4 with an additional prong on the bottom of the
>unit. I assume the bottom prong is a ground (please correct me if I am
>wrong). How do I determine which prongs connect to which prong on the
>regulator? Are these prongs and numbers a understood standard? If not, is
>there a way to determining what is what? No docs were included with the
>regulator. I regret if I missed this in Bobs book and/or webpage. TIA.
There are no industry standards for identifying
functionality of the pin out for various products
on the market. This is one reason why I've
stuck pretty much to the generic "ford" regulators
that I wrote about in Z-11, note 21 and illustrated
in figures Z-11, Z-13/8, Z-19 and these photos:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Regulators/Alternator_Test_1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Regulators/Ford_Test_Reg.jpg
It's not that any of these products are "better" than
other offerings. But if you have a regulator that looks
like this, I can tell you with some confidence how to
hook it up. You can buy these regulators for $4 to $20
from a lot of sources.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Out of town this weekend. |
Dr. Dee and I are departing Wichita about 6:30
in the morning for Atlanta. We're scheduled to
present a weekend seminar there on Saturday and
Sunday.
Considering the way my consulting tasks are going
this may well be the only seminar we do for 2008.
It's certainly the only one until summer.
I should have bailed out of the TC air-framing
business years ago. I'm working 6 different
development programs, learning a lot of new things
every day and working with a crack team of folks
who also should have left "the business" years ago!
Anywho, we'll be back on line Monday.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Re: AC 43.13 - Where did it go? |
Greetings, all,
Go to FAA.GOV, find the link to "Advisory Circulars", use the search engine
for AC 43.13-1B. Copy it exactly the way it is here. Caution if you're on
dial-up -- it's BIG. You get the entire file on .pdf, so you need Adobe
reader.
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com> |
Subject: | Lowrance database |
Greetings, all,
Does anyone know where I can get a current aviation database for an "old"
Lowrance Airmap 100 GPS? Someone erased the Jeppeson database that came in
the unit, and I'd like to get an aviation database for it. The manual
suggests a company that will sell a one-time update for $75, but that info
is ten years old, and I've heard of third-party databases available. Any
advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Taylor" <FlyDad57(at)neo.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lowrance database |
Jim,
I have a Lowrance Airmap1000. I get these notices for updates regularly.
Maybe they can help you or send you in the right direction. Good luck.
Bob Taylor
Jeppesen Database Update Email Notification
Robert Taylor,
A new Jeppesen update has been released from LEI-Extras
that will be effective on these dates:
2/14/2008 - 3/12/2008
Go to http://www.lei-extras.com to download the update now!
If you have any questions regarding this email notification, please contact
LEI Extras Customer Service at 1-800-324-0045.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lowrance database
>
>
> Greetings, all,
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a current aviation database for an "old"
> Lowrance Airmap 100 GPS? Someone erased the Jeppeson database that came
> in
> the unit, and I'd like to get an aviation database for it. The manual
> suggests a company that will sell a one-time update for $75, but that info
> is ten years old, and I've heard of third-party databases available. Any
> advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Jim
> CH-801
> DeltaHawk diesel
> Augusta GA
> 90% done, 90% left
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Swartout <jgswartout(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | "N" Revision to 13/8 affect Z-33? |
Bob, I have a pair of 2-year-old P-mags, and was planning to install them per Z-33.
You've been keeping up with the Emagair developments. I note your changes
to the E-mag/P-mag wiring in the latest Z-13/8 revision. Should I go ahead
and follow Z-33, or change it to run both P-mags from the Main Power bus? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CH701" <701stol(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Lowrance database |
Hi Jim,
The last Jeppesen update issued by Lowrance for the AirMap 100 was Version
1.9, dated 6/27/02. It is available for download at their website.
http://www.lowrance.com/Downloads/Product-Software-Updates/
I'm not aware of any third party updates...
Todd
West Bend, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim McBurney" <jmcburney(at)pobox.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Lowrance database
> Greetings, all,
> Does anyone know where I can get a current aviation database for an "old"
> Lowrance Airmap 100 GPS? Someone erased the Jeppeson database that came
> in the unit, and I'd like to get an aviation database for it. The manual
> suggests a company that will sell a one-time update for $75, but that info
> is ten years old, and I've heard of third-party databases available. Any
> advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Jim
> CH-801
> DeltaHawk diesel
> Augusta GA
> 90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" <mrspudandcompany(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | MOV device usage and spec |
This is probably directed to Bob more than anyone else, but if there are
comments, please feel free.
I have noticed the use of MOV's in many of the "Z" drawings. I understand
their value in protecting switches etc. Do you have specs on what MOV
should be used for different applications, such as for contactors, flap /
gear motors, or any other inductive load?
Thanks,
Roger Curtis
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Know Your Charging System article |
From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I recently ran across this article regarding aircraft alternator operation and
charging systems.
http://www.nflite.com/ChargingSystem.html
If you scroll down past the general explanations, there is a section titled "Don't
overload the system!".
The short story is that the author recommends starting the engine with ALT field
off so as to not overload the charging system and/or put undue strain on the
diode rectifier. Is there anything to this theory?
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163254#163254
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
This ARTICLE is for Externally Regulated Alternators!
Jay great article and I agree with it 100%, but it's for
EXTERNALLY REGULATED AIRCRAFT ALTERNATORS
ONLY. JUST A FYI.
The part about no OVER LOADING applies to all
alternators, but the part about SWITCH throwing is
not good for all alternators.
Their suggestion is to:
1) Leave the alternator switch OFF BEFORE starting
the engine.
2) Turn the alternator switch ON AFTER the engine is
running.
This CAN AND HAS DAMAGED Internal-Voltage Regulated
Alternators (I-VR).
I-VR ALTERNATORS LIKE A NIPPONDENSO, which
are popular with the, kit-plane, home-building,
amateur/experimental community are a totally different
deal. This is the problem, people try to apply old
time E-VR ideas to I-VR and get in trouble. It's a
whole new ball game.
I-VR alternators are designed to be ON before engine
start. They have a soft start function in their "brain" or IC
chip controller.
I-VR alternators are made to STAY ON during engine
shut down. Again it knows when to knock off work.
Some say it does not matter, but I have seen a
correlation between I-VR failures and pilots that do the
switch throwing procedure while the engine is turning.
It's real simple, ALT ON with master BEFORE start,
ALT OFF with master AFTER shut down.
Look at an auto-repair manual for cars; you will see
how the KEY operation works in regards to the
alternator. Over riding the AUTO function of the IC
controller inside a I-VR is not necessary or desirable.
Cheers George
>Subject: Know Your Charging System article
>From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>I recently ran across this article regarding aircraft
>alternator operation >and charging systems.
http://www.nflite.com/ChargingSystem.html
>If you scroll down past the general >explanations,
>there is a section titled "Don't overload the system!".
>The short story is that the author recommends starting
>the engine with ALT field off so as to not overload the
>charging system and/or put undue strain on the diode
>rectifier. Is there anything to this theory?
>Regards, Jay
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
PS: This statment in the article is faults:
>The ignition switch (in a car) is also cutting off
>power to the voltage regulator (which shuts down
>the alternator) while the engine is being started.
That is 100% un-true.
To be clear , the power to the IGN lead
of I-VR alternators comes on and off with
the car's IGNITION. The fact the alternator
manufactures label it IGN should be
a clue! (you think ha-ha)
This is where people get externally regulated
alternators and generator mixed up with modern
internally regulate alternators, which have a
controller or IC "brain" to automatically handle
the alternators functions. Now I can't say for
sure ALL brands work this way, but most
modern (since early mid 1980's) NipponDenso
alternators work this way. How other brands
or knock-off clones of ND alternators work
is to be determined (with some simple test
and observations.)
Again externally regulated and internally
regulated are APPLES and ORANGES,
at least when it comes to its "spool up"
or powering-up and shut down.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: MOV device usage and spec |
>
>
>This is probably directed to Bob more than anyone else, but if there are
>comments, please feel free.
>
>
>I have noticed the use of MOV's in many of the "Z" drawings. I understand
>their value in protecting switches etc. Do you have specs on what MOV
>should be used for different applications, such as for contactors, flap /
>gear motors, or any other inductive load?
They have been removed from all but the oldest,
and yet to be updated drawings. The MOV's are
useful devices in the large transient world (read
lightning) but not practical in aircraft or other
DC power systems as transient suppressors.
Are there any MOV's left in the current suite
of z-figures? If you spot one, let me know and
I'll get it corrected asap. Thanks!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: "N" Revision to 13/8 affect Z-33? |
>
>
>Bob, I have a pair of 2-year-old P-mags, and was planning to install them
>per Z-33. You've been keeping up with the Emagair developments. I note
>your changes to the E-mag/P-mag wiring in the latest Z-13/8
>revision. Should I go ahead and follow Z-33, or change it to run both
>P-mags from the Main Power bus? Thanks.
Z-33 has been removed from the latest encarnation
of the Z-figures and yes, if you have dual p-mags,
the need to "test" the built in alternator is an
easily managed by killing the main bus during the
occasional ground test.
After a visit to Emagair for some enlightening
conversation, the architecture and operating
philosophy depicted in Z-13/8 was evolved and
published.
You mentioned that the devices you have
are two years old. I'm not privy to the
evolutionary details of their products. You'd
best seek answers for any concerns you have
directly with them. I'm certain that you'll
find Brad or Tom very helpful.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
Wondering if anyone knows the part # (I assume it's a Delta RF part) for Ga
rmin's P/N 162-0098.
It's a optional BNC connector that can be used on the SL30, etc - that repl
aces the std. issue clamp style.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Flap Switch Protection |
I'm using Van's electric flap motor with a on-off-(mom)on dpdt switch. I'm
looking for a protection config. for the switch similar to that used on the
battery/starter contactors. Found one diagram on the web using two (Zeiner?)
15V diodes opposing each other across the motor wires, but I don't know the
pedigree of the design. Is there a better way to do this, and if not will a
zeiner diode setup do what I'm trying to do - protect the switch?
Thanks in advance,
Terry Frazier
7A Finishing & Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Palvary" <paula.alvary(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Rev 11, page 14-17, fig 14-11 Question |
Hi All,
I'm new to this group. I'm trying to refurbish an experimental I
recently purchased and am hoping I can get some help on this group.
I have Bob's Rev 11 book and am using it to instrument my four cylinders
for CHT monitoring. As a stop gap measure, I'll be using a rotary switch
with one EGT meter. Looking at View B of figure 14-11, either there is
an error in printing or I'm missing something. It seems to me the wiring
should be perfectly symmetrical. IF the middle thermocouple chromel goes
to the lower point of one switch, then the corresponding alumel should
go to the same location on the other (ganged )switch. I just don't see
it drawn that way, am I wrong here?
--Jose
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Palvary" <paula.alvary(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | KX-165 Transmit light always on |
Any King radio experts on this list?
My KX-165 radio seems to be transmitting and receiving Ok. However, the
transmit light never seems to fully go off. When I push the PTT button
the "T" light gets brighter, but then simply dims during receiving. It
is not a stuck mike switch or I wouldn't be able to receive. I've
cleaned the radio's edge connector and I've removed the intercom from
the circuit. No effect. I have not yet been able to power up the radio
independently to see if the light still stays on.
I have 2 PTT buttons in parrallel and they are simple SPDT to make/break
the mic key line. Could it be that the KX165 needs to have both the mic
audio and key lines switched with a DPDT? Could a missing ground on the
braid to these wires have this effect on the transmit light?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Jose
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vernon Little" <rv-9a-online(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Flap Switch Protection |
That's my design. Probably better to use a bidirectional Transzorb, but the
Zener's are what I had on hand. If I do it again, I'd use a single P6KE16CA
(available from DigiKey). A larger voltage rating is ok as well, just don't
go lower (in a 12 volt system).
Having said that, I've never heard of anyone burning out a switch with a
Van's flap motor. I think the total stored energy is low compared to a
contactor coil, for example.
Vern Little
-----Original Message-----
I'm using Van's electric flap motor with a on-off-(mom)on dpdt switch. I'm
looking for a protection config. for the switch similar to that used on the
battery/starter contactors. Found one diagram on the web using two (Zeiner?)
15V diodes opposing each other across the motor wires, but I don't know the
pedigree of the design. Is there a better way to do this, and if not will a
zeiner diode setup do what I'm trying to do - protect the switch?
Thanks in advance,
Terry Frazier
7A Finishing & Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Scott" <gregory.scott1(at)virgin.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flap Switch Protection |
Terry,
You do not need any switch protection for the Van's Flap motor. The master
and starter solenoids are a different thing thing alltogether. The solenoids
when energized produce a strong electromagenetic field that collapes when
de-energized. This collapsing field causes a reversed EMF that will arc
across the opening contacts eroding them in the process. A diode is
connected across the coil terminals to provide a path for this EMF,
therefore protecting the switch contacts. You named the diodes as "Zeiner"
incorrect, they are Zener diodes, their useful characteristic is their
ability be non conducting in one direction only up to a designed (different
value Zeners) voltage at which point they conduct readily. They are useful
for Over Voltage protection circuits with the addition of a few more
components. They will monitor a voltage level which if goes over the design
voltage the Zener will conduct and trip the circuit protection, a circuit
breaker or fuse.
Hope this has been helpful,
Greg Scott
RV 4 UK reg. G - RVIV
RV9 under construction
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 5:43 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Flap Switch Protection
>
>
>
> I'm using Van's electric flap motor with a on-off-(mom)on dpdt switch.
> I'm
> looking for a protection config. for the switch similar to that used on
> the
> battery/starter contactors. Found one diagram on the web using two
> (Zeiner?)
> 15V diodes opposing each other across the motor wires, but I don't know
> the
> pedigree of the design. Is there a better way to do this, and if not will
> a
> zeiner diode setup do what I'm trying to do - protect the switch?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Terry Frazier
> 7A Finishing & Panel
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flap Switch Protection |
>
>
>
>I'm using Van's electric flap motor with a on-off-(mom)on dpdt switch. I'm
>looking for a protection config. for the switch similar to that used on the
>battery/starter contactors. Found one diagram on the web using two (Zeiner?)
>15V diodes opposing each other across the motor wires, but I don't know the
>pedigree of the design. Is there a better way to do this, and if not will a
>zeiner diode setup do what I'm trying to do - protect the switch?
PM motors are not very "inductive" . . . the
switch used to control this motor would not
benefit from a protective device like a transorb
or zener.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rev 11, page 14-17, fig 14-11 Question |
>Hi All,
>I'm new to this group. I'm trying to refurbish an experimental I recently
>purchased and am hoping I can get some help on this group.
>
>I have Bob's Rev 11 book and am using it to instrument my four cylinders
>for CHT monitoring. As a stop gap measure, I'll be using a rotary switch
>with one EGT meter. Looking at View B of figure 14-11, either there is an
>error in printing or I'm missing something. It seems to me the wiring
>should be perfectly symmetrical. IF the middle thermocouple chromel goes
>to the lower point of one switch, then the corresponding alumel should go
>to the same location on the other (ganged )switch. I just don't see it
>drawn that way, am I wrong here?
Good eye . . . in fact, someone else pointed that out to
me some years ago. I found a revised but un-posted errata
page for Figure 14-11 on the hard drive. It's been posted
to:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/Figure_14-11_REV12-16-02.pdf
Thanks for the heads-up.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
>
>I recently ran across this article regarding aircraft alternator operation
>and charging systems.
>
>http://www.nflite.com/ChargingSystem.html
>
>If you scroll down past the general explanations, there is a section
>titled "Don't overload the system!".
>
>The short story is that the author recommends starting the engine with ALT
>field off so as to not overload the charging system and/or put undue
>strain on the diode rectifier. Is there anything to this theory?
>
>Regards,
>Jay
Yeah, that idea surfaces from time to time. It's
been promulgated by a lot of folks who don't
understand the physics of alternator performance.
I've reviewed the article and posted some comments
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/Know_Your_Charging_System.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Barrow <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Flap Switch Protection |
Bob, For my Vans RV7 flap actuation system I used your Drawing Flaps 4.2 wh
ich utilises two S704-1 Relays and two NO/NC limit switches.
Is this still your recommended system for a situation where one wants the m
otor to be positively turned off at the flaps full up and full down positio
n.
Incidentally, are the relays in Drawing Flaps 4.2 simply required as part o
f the circuit logic, or do they serve a dual function in protecting the tog
gle switch from damage.
Funny thing is that now I can't even find Drawing Flaps 4.2 on your site. I
s it still there.
Regards Bob Barrow
kolls.bob(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Flap Switch Protection>
ctric-List message posted by: "Terry Frazier" > >>
>> >> >I'm using Van's electric flap motor with a on-off-(mom)on dpdt swit
ch. I'm> >looking for a protection config. for the switch similar to that u
sed on the> >battery/starter contactors. Found one diagram on the web using
two (Zeiner?)> >15V diodes opposing each other across the motor wires, but
I don't know the> >pedigree of the design. Is there a better way to do thi
s, and if not will a> >zeiner diode setup do what I'm trying to do - protec
t the switch?> > PM motors are not very "inductive" . . . the> switch used
to control this motor would not> benefit from a protective device like a tr
ansorb> or zener.> > > Bob . . .> > ---------------------------------------
-)> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )> ( a thing wrong, gives it a sup
erficial )> ( appearance of being right . . . )> ( )> ( -Thomas Paine 1776-
========================> _
=====================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
New music from the Rogue Traders - listen now!
http://ninemsn.com.au/share/redir/adTrack.asp?mode=click&clientID=832&r
eferral=hotmailtaglineOct07&URL=http://music.ninemsn.com.au/roguetrader
s
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
2/12/2008
Hello John, Are you looking for the push on BNC connector? Go to this Delta
RF page and look at the bottom center row center connectors:
http://www.deltarf.com/prodspecial.html
Since these are special connectors I don't know of any way to get Delta's
part number for them other than contacting Delta, describing what you want
with the aid of this page, and asking them for help.
Good luck.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
--------------------------------------------------
From: John Tvedte <johnt@comp-sol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector -
Wondering if anyone knows the part # (I assume it's a Delta RF part) for Ga
rmin's P/N 162-0098.
It's a optional BNC connector that can be used on the SL30, etc - that repl
aces the std. issue clamp style.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Flap Switch Protection |
>Bob, For my Vans RV7 flap actuation system I used your Drawing Flaps 4.2
>which utilises two S704-1 Relays and two NO/NC limit switches.
>
>Is this still your recommended system for a situation where one wants the
>motor to be positively turned off at the flaps full up and full down position.
You may not need the limit switches. If the actuator
is fitted with a free-wheel mechanism at the extremes
of travel, then you simply rig the flap extension
mechanism such that flaps are fully extended and
fully stowed at the mechanical limits of the
actuator.
>
>Incidentally, are the relays in Drawing Flaps 4.2 simply required as part
>of the circuit logic, or do they serve a dual function in protecting the
>toggle switch from damage.
The limit switches are not generally rated for
the kinds of stresses posed by the motor. Further,
we'd like to put a dead short on the motor when
OFF . . . this is dynamic braking that reduces
coasting.
>
>Funny thing is that now I can't even find Drawing Flaps 4.2 on your site.
>Is it still there.
See 4th page of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Flaps/Flaps.pdf
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
Bob Thanks for your typical detailed review of the
article. You make several good points, but I would like
to comment on "overload" v. longevity. You seem to
justify your opinion on certification of alternators (type
cert. planes), which is not relevant to alternator
service longevity.
Certification is fine, but no guarantee of longevity. For
example, Lycoming allows Cyl Head Temp (CHT) up to
500F, red line, but on the side, Lycoming tells pilots if
you want your engine to last, better keep CHT under
400F. Lyc doesn't make 2,000 hr TBO @ 500F or even
435F CHT. Lyc cert testing includes full pwr test, but
not for a full 2,000 hrs (I think its 20 hours). Bottom
line, a cert test is not the way to operate your engine.
Same with alternators, it may pass a FAA certification
test, but that is no guarantee of longevity, at least
past the test period.
I'm one that does subscribe to the unscientific myth that
running an alternator at full rated load will reduce its life.
More correctly stated running your alternator HOT all
the time reduces life. A Gent on this list, retired from the
automotive electrical engineering field, held the same
opinion, re-rating aside.
In a plane, the alternator is subject to external heat,
such as exhaust pipes. At high attitude the thin air
reduces cooling. The more power an alternator is
trying make, the hotter it runs. Combine all these
factors, YOU CAN COOK the alternator.
Clearly cooling is a big factor. If you have "forced
cooling" than yes you can run right up to rated power.
The issue is heat. That's why ND's have TWO fans.
HEAT has negative affects on semiconductors, brushes,
bearings and the voltage regulator (if on-board).
It's just common sense. Too much heat = bad.
Last, in the electronics industry, its well known there's a
direct correlation between semi-conductor life (like the
diodes in the rectifier) and temp. Chance of failure goes
up, time between failures goes down, statistically
with higher temps. I agree modern semiconductors are
amazingly robust devices, and they are better than past
components and will be better in the future.
I don't agree with the author's premise that alternators
in cars should last as long as ones in planes, all thing
being equal. In airplanes alternators tend to have less
cooling and more vibrations than in an auto application.
Also in the auto industry 80, 90, 100, 120 amp
alternators are now common for passenger cars, not
because they need all that power. It's because they are
de-rated and need to make power when the engine is
idling at low RPM and to KEEP THEM COOL.
To get more life from alternators increase cooling,
shield for head, reduce vibration and oversize the
alternator relative to max load (aka de-rating).
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
>Subject: Re: Know Your Charging System article
>
>> I recently ran across this article regarding aircraft
>> alternator operation and charging systems.
>>
>> http://www.nflite.com/ChargingSystem.html
>>
>> If you scroll down past the general explanations,
>> there is a section titled "Don't overload the system!".
>> The short story is that the author recommends
>> starting the engine with ALT field off so as to not
>> overload the charging system and/or put undue
>> strain on the diode rectifier. Is there anything to this
>> theory?
>>
>> Regards, Jay
>
> Yeah, that idea surfaces from time to time. It's
> been promulgated by a lot of folks who don't
> understand the physics of alternator performance.
>
>I've reviewed the article and posted some comments at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/Know_Your_Charging_System.pdf
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Walter Fellows" <walter.fellows(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
Bob
Thanks for taking the time to read and comment on this article. It helps
with understanding the system. Have you written a description of the
electrical system that could be used with the drawings for a service manual
(including troubleshooting)? I understand your point about a good technician
not needing it but this is a less than perfect world and my experience is
that many good mechanics are not not that good with electrical systems. It
would also be helpful for the owner/builder to more efficiently diagnose
problems.
On an unrelated matter, I notice that most of the type certified composite
aircraft (columbia, cirrus and diamond) have external antennas. Do you know
if this is a requirement for certification? Is there any reason that blind
antennas cannot be just as effective as external antennas?
Best Regards
Walter Fellows
On Feb 11, 2008 7:39 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>
>
>
> >
> >I recently ran across this article regarding aircraft alternator
> operation
> >and charging systems.
> >
> >http://www.nflite.com/ChargingSystem.html
> >
> >If you scroll down past the general explanations, there is a section
> >titled "Don't overload the system!".
> >
> >The short story is that the author recommends starting the engine with
> ALT
> >field off so as to not overload the charging system and/or put undue
> >strain on the diode rectifier. Is there anything to this theory?
> >
> >Regards,
> >Jay
>
> Yeah, that idea surfaces from time to time. It's
> been promulgated by a lot of folks who don't
> understand the physics of alternator performance.
>
> I've reviewed the article and posted some comments
> at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/_temp/Know_Your_Charging_System.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Walter,
Many certified composite AC have a conductive layer in the composite
to reduce (possibly) the impact of a lightning strike. Might also reduce
P-static during IFR operatives
Conductive layer -> No RF passage
If you don't have a conductive layer, put your antennae inside and save
yourself a few knots. The antennae will not know the difference for most
intents and purposes
As for A&Ps knowing avionics or even power circuits, you are right,
there is an incredibly strong inverse correlation between memorization
of what size wrench to use on an AN-5 bolt and knowledge of how
ground loops form and how to reduce their effect!
Not a perfect correlation, but pretty darn good ;-)
I have met an exception or two out there
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163678#163678
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
>Bob Thanks for your typical detailed review of the
>article. You make several good points, but I would like
>to comment on "overload" v. longevity. You seem to
>justify your opinion on certification of alternators (type
>cert. planes), which is not relevant to alternator
>service longevity.
No such thing. I'm saying that testing confirms
compliance with published limits. It says nothing about
the quality of the device. We DO a lot of testing
in the certified world . . . but precious little in
the OBAM world.
>
>Certification is fine, but no guarantee of longevity. For
>example, Lycoming allows Cyl Head Temp (CHT) up to
>500F, red line, but on the side, Lycoming tells pilots if
>you want your engine to last, better keep CHT under
>400F. Lyc doesn't make 2,000 hr TBO @ 500F or even
>435F CHT. Lyc cert testing includes full pwr test, but
>not for a full 2,000 hrs (I think its 20 hours). Bottom
>line, a cert test is not the way to operate your engine.
>
>Same with alternators, it may pass a FAA certification
>test, but that is no guarantee of longevity, at least
>past the test period.
>
>I'm one that does subscribe to the unscientific myth that
>running an alternator at full rated load will reduce its life.
>More correctly stated running your alternator HOT all
>the time reduces life. A Gent on this list, retired from the
>automotive electrical engineering field, held the same
>opinion, re-rating aside.
>
>In a plane, the alternator is subject to external heat,
>such as exhaust pipes. At high attitude the thin air
>reduces cooling. The more power an alternator is
>trying make, the hotter it runs. Combine all these
>factors, YOU CAN COOK the alternator.
Never said you couldn't . . . All I've said
is that the user of any product should have
a reasonable expectation of satisfactory
service life if the system integrator
respects operating limits cited in the
product's data sheets.
Are you suggesting that alternators in general
cannot be expected to deliver a satisfactory
service life unless de-rated or otherwise
papered in ways not cited by the manufacturer?
Are you saying that alternators last longer in
cars because the systems integrators have
built some form of pampering or de-rating
into their products?
>
>Clearly cooling is a big factor. If you have "forced
>cooling" than yes you can run right up to rated power.
>The issue is heat. That's why ND's have TWO fans.
>
>HEAT has negative affects on semiconductors, brushes,
>bearings and the voltage regulator (if on-board).
>It's just common sense. Too much heat = bad.
>
>Last, in the electronics industry, its well known there's a
>direct correlation between semi-conductor life (like the
>diodes in the rectifier) and temp. Chance of failure goes
>up, time between failures goes down, statistically
>with higher temps. I agree modern semiconductors are
>amazingly robust devices, and they are better than past
>components and will be better in the future.
>
>I don't agree with the author's premise that alternators
>in cars should last as long as ones in planes, all thing
>being equal. In airplanes alternators tend to have less
>cooling and more vibrations than in an auto application.
>Also in the auto industry 80, 90, 100, 120 amp
>alternators are now common for passenger cars, not
>because they need all that power. It's because they are
>de-rated and need to make power when the engine is
>idling at low RPM and to KEEP THEM COOL.
"tend to have less cooling" . . . are you telling
me that the system integrator purposefully ignored
or accidently overlooked the manufacturer's operating
limits? Or perhaps you believe published limits
are bogus or inaccurate?
What's KEEP THEM COOL mean? Do you have temperature
limits to recommend? Where measured? How does one KNOW
they are doing a good thing? Should I consider
offering a new product: "Alternator Over-Temp
Warning Module"?
>
>To get more life from alternators increase cooling,
>shield for head, reduce vibration and oversize the
>alternator relative to max load (aka de-rating).
. . .or do good engineering to confirm your
design is golden before you hand the keys
to the customer. I don't see where we disagree.
The end goal is the same whether you're building
your airplane in the garage or on a factory floor.
The tests are the same whether you're doing
a FAR cert plan or a 40-hour fly off on your
homebuilt.
If one doesn't KNOW by means of purposeful
MEASUREMENT that the system is golden,
then yes, the alternative is subscription
to any doctrine of faith or uncertainty one
wishes. The author of the article was speaking
about certified aircraft and offering a LOT of
slightly organized, sometimes accurate
information sprinkled with too many
inferences and baseless deductions. In
many cases, the deductions were demonstrably
wrong.
The bottom line is that one may choose to
understand and act on that understanding
or "go with the flow" of what ever advice
passes by. The problem is navigating an
ocean of advice.
Walking past the front of one of those
so-called health and nutrition centers in
a shopping mall, I've oft fantasized about
walking into the store and saying, "Give me
one of everything."
No doubt the clerk would be surprised and
possibly even curious as to why I would
make such a request. I'd then offer, "Would
you agree that all the products in this
store are offered to be helpful and are
free of hazard?"
"Of course."
"0kay, if one wishes to exploit the benefits
offered, then the easy approach is to take
one of everything."
"But that would be too much . . . what malady
or health issue are you wanting to address?"
"Oh, I'm okay . . . or at least I feel okay
right now, but since you can't practice
medicine by offering cures, then 100% of
the products in this store are considered
a hedge against suffering some future malady."
"Sure."
"Okay, what's your advice for preventing
if not mitigating any or all future
suffering?"
Here's where we discover that the store
is stocked with thousands of competing
ideas and advice where less than 1% of
ingredients in all products would be
truly useful to the target customer.
In this case the target customer is ignorant
of the mechanism by which any product
offers benefit. The customer is concerned
about lots of things. Every tenth add on TV
and in magazines is for some kind of pill. Every
devotee of the store's doctrine and dogma
willing to extoll the virtues of a variety
of offered products. Thousands of hopeful
customers drag their various worries to
the store hoping their faith in the church
of bottle-driven health will be rewarded.
The article is question is the technological
equivalent of the 10,000 bottle health
and nutrition store. It's my mission to
filter the 99% noise and useless (but
mostly harmless) data so that folks can
exploit what's left over to advance their
understanding and the utility of their project.
Are you suggesting that the readers of this
List de-rate their alternators and subscribe
to every maintenance and operating procedure
offered in every article written about their
electrical system? Would you agree that
some filtering of advice is called for? What
filtering mechanism do you recommend?
For myself, I find comfort in reliance
upon experience of myself and my
colleagues where understanding and
observation of published limits confirmed
with good measurement are the path to
electrical system Nirvana. Service life
then becomes a quality/performance issue
that drives a search for manufacturers who
excel at conducting business in an honorable way.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
I was researching this a few weeks ago. I believe the Delta part number is
4205018N995-000. The supplier I found them at has a $25 minimum order and
no stock. Perhaps we could do a group buy. Does anybody need one, two...?
Bevan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bakerocb(at)cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:34 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector
2/12/2008
Hello John, Are you looking for the push on BNC connector? Go to this Delta
RF page and look at the bottom center row center connectors:
http://www.deltarf.com/prodspecial.html
Since these are special connectors I don't know of any way to get Delta's
part number for them other than contacting Delta, describing what you want
with the aid of this page, and asking them for help.
Good luck.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
--------------------------------------------------
From: John Tvedte <johnt@comp-sol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector -
Wondering if anyone knows the part # (I assume it's a Delta RF part) for Ga
rmin's P/N 162-0098.
It's a optional BNC connector that can be used on the SL30, etc - that repl
aces the std. issue clamp style.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
I might what is the cost for one ?
> -->
AeroElectric-List message posted by: "B Tomm"
>
> I was researching this
a few weeks ago. I believe the Delta part number
> is
>
4205018N995-000. The supplier I found them at has a $25 minimum order and
> no stock. Perhaps we could do a group buy. Does anybody need
one,
> two...?
>
> Bevan
>
>
-----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bakerocb(at)cox.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:34
AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; johnt(at)comp-sol.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector
>
>
>
> 2/12/2008
>
> Hello John, Are you
looking for the push on BNC connector? Go to this
> Delta
> RF page and look at the bottom center row center connectors:
>
> http://www.deltarf.com/prodspecial.html
>
> Since these are special connectors I don't know of any way to get
Delta's
> part number for them other than contacting Delta,
describing what you want
> with the aid of this page, and asking
them for help.
>
> Good luck.
>
> 'OC'
Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
> understand knowledge."
>
>
--------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
From: John Tvedte
<johnt@comp-sol.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF
connector -
>
> Wondering if anyone knows the part # (I
assume it's a Delta RF part) for
> Ga
> rmin's P/N
162-0098.
>
> It's a optional BNC connector that can be
used on the SL30, etc - that
> repl
> aces the std.
issue clamp style.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
List Features Navigator to browse
such as List Un/Subscription,
Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>
>
available via the Web Forums!
http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
generous support!
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
I'm not sure. I sent an email this morning for clarification and have not
heard back yet.
Bevan
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
Skiba
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 10:39 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RF connector
I might what is the cost for one ?
>
> I was researching this a few weeks ago. I believe the Delta part number
> is
> 4205018N995-000. The supplier I found them at has a $25 minimum order and
> no stock. Perhaps we could do a group buy. Does anybody need one,
> two...?
>
> Bevan
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bakerocb(at)cox.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:34 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; johnt(at)comp-sol.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector
>
>
> 2/12/2008
>
> Hello John, Are you looking for the push on BNC connector? Go to this
> Delta
> RF page and look at the bottom center row center connectors:
>
> http://www.deltarf.com/prodspecial.html
>
> Since these are special connectors I don't know of any way to get Delta's
> part number for them other than contacting Delta, describing what you want
> with the aid of this page, and asking them for help.
>
> Good luck.
>
> 'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
> understand knowledge."
>
> --------------------------------------------------
>
>
From: John Tvedte <johnt@comp-sol.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: RF connector -
>
> Wondering if anyone knows the part # (I assume it's a Delta RF part) for
> Ga
> rmin's P/N 162-0098.
>
> It's a optional BNC connector that can be used on the SL30, etc - that
> repl
> aces the std. issue clamp style.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cleary" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
Bob's response
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, 13 February 2008 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Know Your Charging System article
>Bob Thanks for your typical detailed review of the
>article. You make several good points, but I would like
>to comment on "overload" v. longevity. You seem to
>justify your opinion on certification of alternators (type
>cert. planes), which is not relevant to alternator
>service longevity.
No such thing. I'm saying that testing confirms
compliance with published limits. It says nothing about
the quality of the device. We DO a lot of testing
in the certified world . . . but precious little in
the OBAM world.
>
>Certification is fine, but no guarantee of longevity. For
>example, Lycoming allows Cyl Head Temp (CHT) up to
>500F, red line, but on the side, Lycoming tells pilots if
>you want your engine to last, better keep CHT under
>400F. Lyc doesn't make 2,000 hr TBO @ 500F or even
>435F CHT. Lyc cert testing includes full pwr test, but
>not for a full 2,000 hrs (I think its 20 hours). Bottom
>line, a cert test is not the way to operate your engine.
>
>Same with alternators, it may pass a FAA certification
>test, but that is no guarantee of longevity, at least
>past the test period.
>
>I'm one that does subscribe to the unscientific myth that
>running an alternator at full rated load will reduce its life.
>More correctly stated running your alternator HOT all
>the time reduces life. A Gent on this list, retired from the
>automotive electrical engineering field, held the same
>opinion, re-rating aside.
>
>In a plane, the alternator is subject to external heat,
>such as exhaust pipes. At high attitude the thin air
>reduces cooling. The more power an alternator is
>trying make, the hotter it runs. Combine all these
>factors, YOU CAN COOK the alternator.
Never said you couldn't . . . All I've said
is that the user of any product should have
a reasonable expectation of satisfactory
service life if the system integrator
respects operating limits cited in the
product's data sheets.
Are you suggesting that alternators in general
cannot be expected to deliver a satisfactory
service life unless de-rated or otherwise
papered in ways not cited by the manufacturer?
Are you saying that alternators last longer in
cars because the systems integrators have
built some form of pampering or de-rating
into their products?
>
>Clearly cooling is a big factor. If you have "forced
>cooling" than yes you can run right up to rated power.
>The issue is heat. That's why ND's have TWO fans.
>
>HEAT has negative affects on semiconductors, brushes,
>bearings and the voltage regulator (if on-board).
>It's just common sense. Too much heat = bad.
>
>Last, in the electronics industry, its well known there's a
>direct correlation between semi-conductor life (like the
>diodes in the rectifier) and temp. Chance of failure goes
>up, time between failures goes down, statistically
>with higher temps. I agree modern semiconductors are
>amazingly robust devices, and they are better than past
>components and will be better in the future.
>
>I don't agree with the author's premise that alternators
>in cars should last as long as ones in planes, all thing
>being equal. In airplanes alternators tend to have less
>cooling and more vibrations than in an auto application.
>Also in the auto industry 80, 90, 100, 120 amp
>alternators are now common for passenger cars, not
>because they need all that power. It's because they are
>de-rated and need to make power when the engine is
>idling at low RPM and to KEEP THEM COOL.
"tend to have less cooling" . . . are you telling
me that the system integrator purposefully ignored
or accidently overlooked the manufacturer's operating
limits? Or perhaps you believe published limits
are bogus or inaccurate?
What's KEEP THEM COOL mean? Do you have temperature
limits to recommend? Where measured? How does one KNOW
they are doing a good thing? Should I consider
offering a new product: "Alternator Over-Temp
Warning Module"?
>
>To get more life from alternators increase cooling,
>shield for head, reduce vibration and oversize the
>alternator relative to max load (aka de-rating).
. . .or do good engineering to confirm your
design is golden before you hand the keys
to the customer. I don't see where we disagree.
The end goal is the same whether you're building
your airplane in the garage or on a factory floor.
The tests are the same whether you're doing
a FAR cert plan or a 40-hour fly off on your
homebuilt.
If one doesn't KNOW by means of purposeful
MEASUREMENT that the system is golden,
then yes, the alternative is subscription
to any doctrine of faith or uncertainty one
wishes. The author of the article was speaking
about certified aircraft and offering a LOT of
slightly organized, sometimes accurate
information sprinkled with too many
inferences and baseless deductions. In
many cases, the deductions were demonstrably
wrong.
The bottom line is that one may choose to
understand and act on that understanding
or "go with the flow" of what ever advice
passes by. The problem is navigating an
ocean of advice.
Walking past the front of one of those
so-called health and nutrition centers in
a shopping mall, I've oft fantasized about
walking into the store and saying, "Give me
one of everything."
No doubt the clerk would be surprised and
possibly even curious as to why I would
make such a request. I'd then offer, "Would
you agree that all the products in this
store are offered to be helpful and are
free of hazard?"
"Of course."
"0kay, if one wishes to exploit the benefits
offered, then the easy approach is to take
one of everything."
"But that would be too much . . . what malady
or health issue are you wanting to address?"
"Oh, I'm okay . . . or at least I feel okay
right now, but since you can't practice
medicine by offering cures, then 100% of
the products in this store are considered
a hedge against suffering some future malady."
"Sure."
"Okay, what's your advice for preventing
if not mitigating any or all future
suffering?"
Here's where we discover that the store
is stocked with thousands of competing
ideas and advice where less than 1% of
ingredients in all products would be
truly useful to the target customer.
In this case the target customer is ignorant
of the mechanism by which any product
offers benefit. The customer is concerned
about lots of things. Every tenth add on TV
and in magazines is for some kind of pill. Every
devotee of the store's doctrine and dogma
willing to extoll the virtues of a variety
of offered products. Thousands of hopeful
customers drag their various worries to
the store hoping their faith in the church
of bottle-driven health will be rewarded.
The article is question is the technological
equivalent of the 10,000 bottle health
and nutrition store. It's my mission to
filter the 99% noise and useless (but
mostly harmless) data so that folks can
exploit what's left over to advance their
understanding and the utility of their project.
Are you suggesting that the readers of this
List de-rate their alternators and subscribe
to every maintenance and operating procedure
offered in every article written about their
electrical system? Would you agree that
some filtering of advice is called for? What
filtering mechanism do you recommend?
For myself, I find comfort in reliance
upon experience of myself and my
colleagues where understanding and
observation of published limits confirmed
with good measurement are the path to
electrical system Nirvana. Service life
then becomes a quality/performance issue
that drives a search for manufacturers who
excel at conducting business in an honorable way.
Bob . . .
9:31 AM
9:31 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Know Your Charging System article |
>Bob
>
>Thanks for taking the time to read and comment on this article. It helps
>with understanding the system. Have you written a description of the
>electrical system that could be used with the drawings for a service
>manual (including troubleshooting)? I understand your point about a good
>technician not needing it but this is a less than perfect world and my
>experience is that many good mechanics are not not that good with
>electrical systems. It would also be helpful for the owner/builder to more
>efficiently diagnose problems.
See the website at
http://aeroelectric.com/
where the AeroElectric Connection textbook
is offered in addition to numerous writings
downloadable from the website. In particular,
check out Appendix Z from the text where
you'll find numerous exemplar alternator
installations and a troubleshooting procedure
in the notes section. Note 8 as I recall.
>On an unrelated matter, I notice that most of the type certified composite
>aircraft (columbia, cirrus and diamond) have external antennas. Do you
>know if this is a requirement for certification? Is there any reason that
>blind antennas cannot be just as effective as external antennas?
It's a matter of degrees. ANYTHING one puts between
the antenna and a signal source has an effect on
performance. From the standpoint of producing an
installation on a TSO'd system that yields predictable
airplane to airplane performance, it's best that the
antenna be mounted outside.
That's not to say that some ambitious air-framer
would be told not to cover the antenna up but
it adds to the certification workload to prove
that the degradation is acceptable. Hence,
most folks don't do it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank Davis <ffdavis(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Crowbar Application - off topic |
I have a large air compressor plumbed into outlets around my shop, I
try to remember to turn the compressor off at the circuit breaker when I
leave the shop, but some times I forget. Recently, after forgetting, an
air line came loose dropping the air tank pressure below the compressor
turn on point (about 90 psi). The compressor could not keep up with the
air loss and ran continuously.
To prevent reoccurrences I came up with a crowbar circuit to shut the
compressor off in this situation, thanks to learning about crowbars from
the Z Figures. I wired a DPST 110V relay with the N/O contacts going to
the two hot legs of the 220V service and the fixed terminals to ground.
Energizing this relay put a dead short to ground on both hot leg and
opens the circuit breaker. Probably very high current through the
contacts for a very short time, but I haven't welded the contacts shut yet.
One side of t he relay coil goes to ground. The other side of the coil
goes to one leg of the 220v line (which is 110v above ground) through an
adjustable pressure switch (from McMaster-Carr) and a SPST switch in
series. The pressure switch is set to close below about 85psi. The
STSP switch is opened to allow compressor start up and is manually
closed to arm the system above 90psi. If the pressure drops below 85psi
with the system armed the circuit breaker opens, shuts off the
compressor, and removes voltage from the relay. It works well, but I'm
not sure how a building inspector would feel about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert McCallum" <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Crowbar Application - off topic |
Frank
Why not use a DPDT or DPST-N/C relay instead, and wire the contacts in
series with the compressor supply instead of shorting it to ground? That way
when the pressure drops low enough the compressor simply shuts off rather
than shorting out. When you are using large quantities of air of course you
have to defeat this system however just as you would with your scheme.
Sounds very inconvenient. Shorting the hydro line to ground isn't a
particularly good idea and is asking for trouble, probably sooner than
later. An alternative is to wire your DPST relay such that the compressor
supply is through this relay and then wire the relay coil to the lighting
circuit in your shop. You turn out the lights when you leave and the
compressor is automatically shut down. While you're in the shop working, the
compressor runs as intended, no dangerous shorts or other complications
involved and no extra circuits to arm or disarm as required.
Bob McC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Davis" <ffdavis(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 10:54 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Crowbar Application - off topic
>
> I have a large air compressor plumbed into outlets around my shop, I
> try to remember to turn the compressor off at the circuit breaker when I
> leave the shop, but some times I forget. Recently, after forgetting, an
> air line came loose dropping the air tank pressure below the compressor
> turn on point (about 90 psi). The compressor could not keep up with the
> air loss and ran continuously.
>
> To prevent reoccurrences I came up with a crowbar circuit to shut the
> compressor off in this situation, thanks to learning about crowbars from
> the Z Figures. I wired a DPST 110V relay with the N/O contacts going to
> the two hot legs of the 220V service and the fixed terminals to ground.
> Energizing this relay put a dead short to ground on both hot leg and
> opens the circuit breaker. Probably very high current through the
> contacts for a very short time, but I haven't welded the contacts shut
yet.
>
> One side of t he relay coil goes to ground. The other side of the coil
> goes to one leg of the 220v line (which is 110v above ground) through an
> adjustable pressure switch (from McMaster-Carr) and a SPST switch in
> series. The pressure switch is set to close below about 85psi. The
> STSP switch is opened to allow compressor start up and is manually
> closed to arm the system above 90psi. If the pressure drops below 85psi
> with the system armed the circuit breaker opens, shuts off the
> compressor, and removes voltage from the relay. It works well, but I'm
> not sure how a building inspector would feel about it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Crowbar Application - off topic |
>
>
>Frank
>
>Why not use a DPDT or DPST-N/C relay instead, and wire the contacts in
>series with the compressor supply instead of shorting it to ground? That way
>when the pressure drops low enough the compressor simply shuts off rather
>than shorting out. When you are using large quantities of air of course you
>have to defeat this system however just as you would with your scheme.
>Sounds very inconvenient. Shorting the hydro line to ground isn't a
>particularly good idea and is asking for trouble, probably sooner than
>later. An alternative is to wire your DPST relay such that the compressor
>supply is through this relay and then wire the relay coil to the lighting
>circuit in your shop. You turn out the lights when you leave and the
>compressor is automatically shut down. While you're in the shop working, the
>compressor runs as intended, no dangerous shorts or other complications
>involved and no extra circuits to arm or disarm as required.
My shop in Medicine Lodge has an outlet driven through
a wind-up two-hour timer, not unlike the cooking timers
of yesteryear. I give 'er a good crank when I need air
but if I forget to turn the compressor off before leaving,
the timer does it for me.
I use a small contactor to relieve the timer's contacts
from having to carry the motor current. If I'm in the
shop long enough for the timer to run out, I'll generally
hear it drop out unless I'm making a lot of noise. Once
could also consider adding an indicator light that goes
out when the compressor power goes away.
The crowbar thing on AC mains breakers involves a much
higher energy event than for tripping a 5A breaker in
an airplane. It would probably function as advertised
but it's not the elegant solution. Bob's idea is probably
the best. Lowest parts count yet.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Fusible Link Question |
(response to query sent privately. writer identity
filtered to comply with the writer's perceived
wishes).
Bob . . .
I believe I'm going with Z 13 diagram. While studing this diagram and
comparing to Z 12, I see that in Z13 the 5 Amp ALT FLD CB coming off the
Main Bus has a fuseable link before it. In Z-12 the ALT FLD CB comes right
off the Main Bus and no fuseable link. Does it make a difference which way
I go? I would perfer NOT to use fuseable link, but come off the Main Bus as
depicted in Z-12.
Z-13 features fuseblock mounted remotely from the
panel . . . so the bus must be extended to the panel
to accommodate the lonely 5A breaker. The upstream
protection for the bus extension to the panel needs
to be MUCH more robust than the breaker. I.e, the
I-squared * T constant for the upstream protection
needs to be bigger. Crowbaring the 5A breaker does not
pose a nuisance trip risk to a fusible link.
What's your heartburn with a fusible link? They're
an exceedingly mature technology with wide application
and in this particular case, makes for the most elegant
solution.
Another point- I am using fuse blocks instead of bus bars, so if I take the
5 amp CB off the Main Bus as in Z-12, would I install a 15 or 20 amp fuse,
then run 18g to the CB ?
Make it a 30A fuse and then I suppose one would also
up-size the fuse-to-breaker feeder to say 12AWG.
You can see which way this is going. My advice
is to stay with the fusible link. It was a long
considered feature of this architecture.
Lastly, in the Z-13, the SD-8 comes off the Battery Contactor, once again
an 18g fuseable link. Is there any way around that ? "like" starting at the
Battery Fuse block instead of the Battery Contactor (use 7 or 10 amp fuse),
then run 18 g to shunt, etc, etc.?
Leave the wire sizes as depicted. Put a 15A in-line
fuse in there if it makes you feel better.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------)
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
Subject: | Re: Crowbar Application - off topic |
Yes and a similar scheme for water may be even more useful. Water leaks
are frequent and can be very expensive as insurance companies well know.
There are commercial valve units with leak detectors available for those
on city water. However for well water, I wired in such a relay that
pulls in to kill power to the pump when the burglar alarm is armed. (BTW
the relay consumes far less power than any one of numerous household
electronic items do when they are turned OFF!)
If concerned about my compressor, I'd wire a relay to pull in and power
the compressor when shop lights were turned on or when Bob's wind up
timer was activated. Some guys do simply use a 230 volt switch box to
kill lights and shop power simultaneously when they leave the shop.
For my electronics bench, turning off the lights also kills power to the
soldering iron plug.
Ken
Robert McCallum wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> Why not use a DPDT or DPST-N/C relay instead, and wire the contacts in
> series with the compressor supply instead of shorting it to ground? That way
> when the pressure drops low enough the compressor simply shuts off rather
> than shorting out. When you are using large quantities of air of course you
> have to defeat this system however just as you would with your scheme.
> Sounds very inconvenient. Shorting the hydro line to ground isn't a
> particularly good idea and is asking for trouble, probably sooner than
> later. An alternative is to wire your DPST relay such that the compressor
> supply is through this relay and then wire the relay coil to the lighting
> circuit in your shop. You turn out the lights when you leave and the
> compressor is automatically shut down. While you're in the shop working, the
> compressor runs as intended, no dangerous shorts or other complications
> involved and no extra circuits to arm or disarm as required.
>
> Bob McC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | External antennas on composite plane (was Alternator |
article)
Walter three or four things:
External antennas are better performing in general, even
on a fiberglass plane.
Cost to bond in antennas is more than off the shelf
antennas that bolt on (externally). All they have to do is
put a metal ground plane (the size of a large round or
square serving plate) under the antenna. Done.
Last, some one told me (I don't know this for sure) the
Columbia has some kind of lighting protection in the
layup, to route a lightning strike through and out the
plane. I have not confirmed this, but this would make
internal antennas as impractical as they are in metal
planes.
In the area of pure gussing, it might also be a certification
issue, meaning its easier and cheaper to use exisiting
products. It is a fact that the DRAG from an antenna or
two is small. Why bother? George
>On an unrelated matter, I notice that most of the type
>certified composite aircraft (columbia, cirrus and diamond)
>have external antennas. Do you know if this is a requirement
>for certification? Is there any reason that blind antennas
>cannot be just as effective as external antennas?
>Best Regards
>Walter Fellows
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | External antennas on composite plane (was Alternator |
article)
Antennas reside quite well internally in composite, fiberglass
airplanes, as
long as the structure is fiberglass. As soon as you move to carbon based
cloth, external antennas are needed. Some carbon cloth kits (Lancair)
have
specific areas of fiberglass cloth instead of carbon to allow internal
antennas.
Lightning protection is another issue. The accepted way of protecting a
fiberglass (Glasair) or carbon (Lancair) or certified composite
(Columbia,
Cirus) airframe is to place a layer of copper mesh in the last few
(outer)
laminates of the structure. This means that all antenna have to be
external.
Bruce
<http://www.Glasair.org> www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 10:08 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: External antennas on composite plane (was
Alternator article)
Walter three or four things:
External antennas are better performing in general, even
on a fiberglass plane.
Cost to bond in antennas is more than off the shelf
antennas that bolt on (externally). All they have to do is
put a metal ground plane (the size of a large round or
square serving plate) under the antenna. Done.
Last, some one told me (I don't know this for sure) the
Columbia has some kind of lighting protection in the
layup, to route a lightning strike through and out the
plane. I have not confirmed this, but this would make
internal antennas as impractical as they are in metal
planes.
In the area of pure gussing, it might also be a certification
issue, meaning its easier and cheaper to use exisiting
products. It is a fact that the DRAG from an antenna or
two is small. Why bother? George
>On an unrelated matter, I notice that most of the type
>certified composite aircraft (columbia, cirrus and diamond)
>have external antennas. Do you know if this is a requirement
>for certification? Is there any reason that blind antennas
>cannot be just as effective as external antennas?
>Best Regards
>Walter Fellows
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | External antennas on composite plane (was Alternator |
article)
Internal antennas are for esthetics and the micro speed conscious. I
have love washing my airplane and not having to go around everything in
the process. One clean sweep on the belly. They do not necessarily work
better or worse. I have noticed little difference having everything
inside. If you crash your ELT antenna will be outside after you land, so
problem solved. Yes, Columbia (Cessna) and Lancair have a lightning kit
January 29, 2008 - February 13, 2008
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-hp