AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-jt
September 28, 2010 - October 18, 2010
Does anyone know a source for a pressure switch I can put in the
pitot/static system. I'd like to disable the flaps-down function if the
airspeed is above some reasonable value. I can find electronic sensors, but
I'd like to eliminate any electronics for simplicity.
Thanks,
-Tom
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313929#313929
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I post this occasionally when this topic pops up. This is a divide-by-two rpm converter
for anyone interested.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298338#298338
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tach_adapter_181.pdf
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313983#313983
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot pressure switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
I suggest that an override switch be wired in parallel with the pressure switch,
in case the pressure switch fails open.
An alternative to disabling the flaps would be an alarm that would sound if the
flaps were lowered while above a certain speed. The pilot would hear the alarm
as soon as the flaps started going down and she would let go of the switch
before the flaps lowered enough to cause damage. (unless she is blonde) :D
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313985#313985
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot pressure switch |
I agree. In my opinion, you should always have direct pilot control coupled
with an independent warning system. Automatic systems are like
bureaucracies: They can be expensive, frustrating to get working and prone
to failure when you need them the most!
Vern
--------------------------------------------------
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 5:55 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Pitot pressure switch
>
>
> I suggest that an override switch be wired in parallel with the pressure
> switch, in case the pressure switch fails open.
> An alternative to disabling the flaps would be an alarm that would sound
> if the flaps were lowered while above a certain speed. The pilot would
> hear the alarm as soon as the flaps started going down and she would let
> go of the switch before the flaps lowered enough to cause damage. (unless
> she is blonde) :D
> Joe
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313985#313985
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 17:56:00
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot pressure switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Kevin Horton made a spreadsheet that converts airspeed to pressure. This might
help deciding which pressure switch to buy.
www.tcwtech.com/airspeed%20conversion.xls
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313987#313987
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot pressure switch |
I'd suggest the switch from TCW also - but be careful how you wire
it. Think about the scenarios when you would want it to work and when
not, and then figure out the wiring. An over-ride switch also sounds
sensible.
Peter
On 28/09/2010 00:37, tomcostanza wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "tomcostanza"
>
> Does anyone know a source for a pressure switch I can put in the pitot/static
system. I'd like to disable the flaps-down function if the airspeed is above
some reasonable value. I can find electronic sensors, but I'd like to eliminate
any electronics for simplicity.
>
> Thanks,
> -Tom
>
> --------
> Clear Skies,
> Tom Costanza
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313929#313929
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot pressure switch |
At 07:55 AM 9/28/2010, you wrote:
>
>I suggest that an override switch be wired in parallel with the
>pressure switch, in case the pressure switch fails open.
> An alternative to disabling the flaps would be an alarm that
> would sound if the flaps were lowered while above a certain
> speed. The pilot would hear the alarm as soon as the flaps started
> going down and she would let go of the switch before the flaps
> lowered enough to cause damage. (unless she is blonde) :D
I'll second that suggestion. Keep in mind too
that any time you add complexity to any system,
the parts counts go up and failure modes expand,
probability for failure goes up.
If it's your CD player or cabin air conditioning
system, perhaps not a big concern . . . but hooking
motors to flight control surfaces is IS a BIG
concern.
One is well advised to consider return on
investment for adding complexity. Does it really
ADD to safety? Does it add a bunch of convenience
that helps you be a better pilot while adding little
or no risk? Consider the potential risks for handing
off legacy pilot duties to modern conveniences.
Finally, when such systems are added, make sure that
NO failure will produce a hazardous, un-commanded motion
of the surface and NO failure can produce a hazardous
failure-to-move the surface as needed.
My all time favorite flap system was actuated by
a handle that was pulled up off the floor. Nothing
happened until I was ready for it to happen . . .
and risk of the flaps not being available as
needed was exceedingly low.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Please comment on my Wiring diagram J3300 and Exp Bus |
| From: | "ple190" <plge190(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Any comment or suggestions appreciated, this is draft 3
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314039#314039
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/j3300_wiring_a_319.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Comments J3300 exp bus wiring(smaller image) |
| From: | "ple190" <plge190(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Please comment
smaller image
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314042#314042
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/j3300_wiring_a1_985.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
| From: | "Bubblehead" <jdalmansr(at)gmail.com> |
If you'll go to the thread in my last posting you'll see this response from "dynonsupport."
> "I seem to remember it being 1 PPR from past customers using it.
> No harm in firing up the engine with it not set correctly. It will be pretty
obvious if it is off, since your engine will be at a nice idle and will read 350
or 1400 even though it's at 700.?"
So Glenn, next time how about leaving the sarcastic comments off the forum when
someone is trying to help you.
> "Thanks - yeah, nothing hard about it at all. So, what's the setting? You
> can't tell me this is a guessing game? Ok, I've got 10 fingers to go.
> The point is this should be published somewhere. Sure, I guessed black
> was ground and red was power. Got that part down quickly.
>
> Seems like all the Van's folks use the EIS 4k, I'm using the Dynon 180
> which is similar but different.
>
> Glenn E. Long "
This really isn't hard. You are making it more difficult than it needs to be and
apparently you just want people to hand you the answer and do all your thinking
for you. Lots of people have installed the 180 and apparently they figured
it out.
And gee, I think we all knew the 180 is not the EIS 4000.
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314112#314112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
Thanks John,
I was just keeping in step with the vein of the mentality of the
original response. I will definitely post my results which seemed a
reasonable request in the first place.
Glenn E. Long
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Bubblehead
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12
If you'll go to the thread in my last posting you'll see this response
from "dynonsupport."
> "I seem to remember it being 1 PPR from past customers using it.
> No harm in firing up the engine with it not set correctly. It will be
pretty obvious if it is off, since your engine will be at a nice idle
and will read 350 or 1400 even though it's at 700.?"
So Glenn, next time how about leaving the sarcastic comments off the
forum when someone is trying to help you.
> "Thanks - yeah, nothing hard about it at all. So, what's the setting?
You
> can't tell me this is a guessing game? Ok, I've got 10 fingers to go.
> The point is this should be published somewhere. Sure, I guessed black
> was ground and red was power. Got that part down quickly.
>
> Seems like all the Van's folks use the EIS 4k, I'm using the Dynon 180
> which is similar but different.
>
> Glenn E. Long "
This really isn't hard. You are making it more difficult than it needs
to be and apparently you just want people to hand you the answer and do
all your thinking for you. Lots of people have installed the 180 and
apparently they figured it out.
And gee, I think we all knew the 180 is not the EIS 4000.
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314112#314112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
| From: | "Bubblehead" <jdalmansr(at)gmail.com> |
Gosh. I feel so chastised.
You're welcome for the help by the way. Try 1 pulse per revolution (PPR).
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314142#314142
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
At 03:12 PM 9/29/2010, you wrote:
>
>Gosh. I feel so chastised.
>
>You're welcome for the help by the way. Try 1 pulse per revolution (PPR).
I'd be surprised if it were that low a number. When
sampling data for processing and then working with
the result to do something useful (like put numbers
on a screen) in real time you would like to have the
highest practical number of samples/second. I've
designed components of several tach systems, one of
the first being for Bonanzas and Barons when they
went to the "turbine style", 2-inch instruments. As
I recall, the transducer we built had 8 magnets flying
past a hall-effect transducer.
There ARE numerous techniques for resolving engine
RPM from about ANY number of pulses per revolution
but the lower you go, the more "wiggle" you get in
the display . . . or if you filter the wiggle out,
the display lags several seconds behind real numbers
as you try to adjust RPM.
It's VERY likely that the transducer in question is
a hall device which means you can hook it up with a
simple power supply and voltmeter on the bench and
just count the transitions as you rotate the shaft.
The sad feature in this discussion is that well
known and highly respected suppliers of goodies to
the OBAM aviation community cannot tell you anything
about the device they sold you. Lest anyone think
I'm picking on Van, know that the problem is pandemic
in the aviation community. Even the "big guys" suffer
from the malady.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
| From: | "Bubblehead" <jdalmansr(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
While I agree with all of your logic, Dynon Support says that the setting "1 PPR"
will work. It seems like before we go through lots of bench testing and hassle
we at least give that setting a chance. After all, this is just RPM. We
know that a Lyc should idle at about 600 to 1000 rpm. We would quickly know
if it is off by 2 or by 1/2 or is completely bogus. For instance, if the device
was putting out 360 pulses per rev (1 per degree) we would see the Dynon display
360000 at 1000 actual rpm.
I think too that perhaps we are thinking that this is a position encoder with many
pulses per revolution. It is not a position encoder, just a simple revolution
encoder that is used on a great many tachometers on many different vehicles.
Lots of people use the Dynon 180 and apparently have solved this riddle. I think
we're making it harder than it needs to be. We are solving a question that
does not even need to be answered.
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314223#314223
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RPM Transducer IE VTACHGEN 12 |
| From: | "Bubblehead" <jdalmansr(at)gmail.com> |
Here are some links that may provide some clues.
Here is a manufacturer of a tach drive unit that appears to be identical in appearance
to what Vans and others sell. Perhaps someone could contact them and
see if they supply Vans and then get a data sheet.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=311/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd109.htm
Here's a source
http://www.phoenixtuning.com/zenstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_34&products_id=459&zenid=aov3bkbts67jf26s7eenvttqa2
One on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DAKOTA-DIGITAL-GM-8K-PULSE-GENERATOR-SENDER-SEN-01-1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ370370121423QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
A data sheet (no info on pulses)
http://www.dakotadigital.com/PDF/SEN-01-1.PDF
Another source
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-SEN-01-1/
Depending on what source you look at they say it is either 8 pulses or 8000 pulses
per revolution.
I've looked through all my pictures of the encoder I installed on my -8 and I cannot
see a model number.
The setting that works on my EIS (yes, I know it's not a 180) is "4".
I hope some of this helps.
--------
John Dalman
Keller, TX
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314225#314225
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
I'm using aeroflash strobes, with non shielded wire. I'm gettng the whoop whop
whine sound. I've kept the wires away from the antanna as best as possible.
I've attached as close to the positve side of the terminal as possible and still
the sound. It comes through with the intercom on or off. The aeroflash
power supply comes with a ground lead, this is the only area that I have not used
a return all the way to the ground and I regret it now, and they are at my
wing tips. Should I have gone directly to the ground tabs with an actual wire,
would this make a difference in the sound.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314235#314235
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
At 12:31 PM 9/30/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>I'm using aeroflash strobes, with non shielded wire. I'm gettng the
>whoop whop whine sound. I've kept the wires away from the antanna
>as best as possible. I've attached as close to the positve side of
>the terminal as possible and still the sound. It comes through with
>the intercom on or off. The aeroflash power supply comes with a
>ground lead, this is the only area that I have not used a return all
>the way to the ground and I regret it now, and they are at my wing
>tips. Should I have gone directly to the ground tabs with an actual
>wire, would this make a difference in the sound.
It takes TWO connections to LOOP. The fact that you
hear the noise with the intercom OFF sugests that your
headset jacks are not insulated from airframe ground.
Have you installed insulating washers on your headset
and microphone jacks?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 9024 questions |
> :)
>I look forward to you having the time again to shepherd AEL, but in
>the mean time I'm happily grazing on the grass in front of me and
>wish you and your family the absolute best of medical outcomes.
Thanks to all for their concerns and best wishes. Actually,
since my consulting clientele are either comatose or
slipping fast, I may actually have more time to devote to
AEC manufacturing.
I must confess also that I've been spending a lot of time
writing a book on ideas and issues for another forum.
That activity will be launched on a dedicated website
in the not too distant future. I do not have enough content
gathered together to fuel the launch. I'll announce the
activation of our sister website probably within the next
couple months. There will be a companion list-server for
that activity as well. Individuals interested in this activity
can watch the front page of aeroelectric.com for the launch
announcement.
In the mean time, I've just about got all the AEC manufacturing
ops loaded into my van and I've got a two-hour drive to figure
out how and where I'm going to get it set up in M.L. My volume
and floor space suited to electronics is about 1/3rd of what
I had in Wichita!
On the other side of that coin, I have a really nice wood shop.
I've been fabricating cabinets and remodeling patches for a house
Dr. Dee has in Lindsborg where she teaches. Had a high-priority
distraction this morning . . . my 3-year old grandson is learning
how to do "grandpa's famous scrambled eggs."
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
I've only insulated my mic jacks. I guess I'll insulationg my headph one jacks
too. Let me clarify this.... I hear the noise with the intercom on or off.
When the intercom is off it is bypassing the intercom in failsafe mode.
Flightcom 403 w/ stereo, Garmin SL 30 radio, Aeroflash strobes
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314288#314288
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
At 11:11 PM 9/30/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>I've only insulated my mic jacks. I guess I'll insulationg my
>headph one jacks too. Let me clarify this.... I hear the noise
>with the intercom on or off. When the intercom is off it is
>bypassing the intercom in failsafe mode.
The SIGNAL wires are switch between normal and fail-safe
configurations, not the ground wires. It's the ground wires
of the headset that are probably sharing current pathways
with ground wires of the strobes that generate "the loop".
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
Went to the hangar today and tried with the mic and headphone jacks off of the
panel ( in my hand to make sure they were isolated) . No luck, but a great thought....
NEXT? THis is getting to be a bummer.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314415#314415
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
At 01:18 PM 10/2/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Went to the hangar today and tried with the mic and headphone jacks
>off of the panel ( in my hand to make sure they were isolated) . No
>luck, but a great thought.... NEXT? THis is getting to be a bummer.
Then the 'loop' is somewhere else. Since the interference
is detected with the intercom OFF suggests that the problem
does not lie upstream of the intercom but downstream. Do all
your panel mounted electro-whizzies enjoy a common ground?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Apparent grounding problems |
| From: | Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins(at)gmail.com> |
I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic engine
indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite Quickie Q-200.
The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces from 190,
to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of the other instruments
do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground". I am
attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground system. (I don't have
the backside of the forest of tabs grounding block mounted directly to the
firewall, because is just so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire
connecting the two.)
The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground path
completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two wire sensor.
I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to access the accessory case,
and besides, I want to get at the root cause.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Apparent grounding problems |
Sam
When they say "bad ground", they are not referring to a bad ground design
but to a deficient ground connection.
You should look for loose or corroded ground connections.
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Hoskins
Sent: domingo, 3 de Outubro de 2010 14:49
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Apparent grounding problems
I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic engine
indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite Quickie Q-200.
The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces from 190,
to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of the other instruments
do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground". I am
attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground system. (I don't have
the backside of the forest of tabs grounding block mounted directly to the
firewall, because is just so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire
connecting the two.)
The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground path
completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two wire sensor.
I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to access the accessory case,
and besides, I want to get at the root cause.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL
www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
On 10/3/2010 8:49 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
> I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic
> engine indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite
> Quickie Q-200.
>
> The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces from
> 190, to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of the other
> instruments do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
>
> I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground". I
> am attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground system. (I
> don't have the backside of the forest of tabs grounding block mounted
> directly to the firewall, because is just so very hard to access, so I
> have an 8AWG wire connecting the two.)
>
> The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground path
> completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two wire
> sensor. I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to access
> the accessory case, and besides, I want to get at the root cause.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Sam Hoskins
> Murphysboro, IL
> www.samhoskins.blogspot.com <http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>
>
>
Hi Sam,
Some have had problems with sensors being insulated from the engine
itself by the thread sealant. Hard to believe, but that's what some have
reported.
How is the engine ground tied to your 'forest of tabs' common ground
point? (Trying to use the steel motor mount as a conductor can cause
problems.) What are you using for your firewall feed-through, a good
conductor like brass or copper, or a steel bolt (not so good)?
Then the obvious: check existing wiring for good, solid connections.
Take close looks at all your sub-D connectors, especially if you used
crimp type pins that can be added/removed. It's not unusual for one to
partly back out of a housing, causing an intermittent connection.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
I FOUND IT. Strobe power supply wires to close and parallel with com and radio
wires. What type of interference is that considered? And does shielding help
it?
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314505#314505
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> |
| Subject: | Diode type, size |
Greetings,
At the risk of being a possible echo, I will ask the question anyway...
(searched the book and the archives)
Is there a common type & or size diode I should use on my Batt contactor? The
theory makes perfect sence to protect the master switch...I'm ready to go get
one...so what would I ask for?
Thanks,
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power wires to strobe power supply |
At 12:50 PM 10/3/2010, you wrote:
I FOUND IT. Strobe power supply wires to close and parallel with com
and radio wires. What type of interference is that considered?
Electro-magnetic coupling. See narrative on my first
mini-van purchase at OSH way back when. Pages 16-10 to
16-12 of the 'Connection.
And does shielding help it?
No.
This coupling mode can be broken by any one
of three ways:
Preservation of the "parallel conductors
configuration for inbound-outbound electrons
in either (1) the antagonist's power lines
or (2) the victim's signal lines or (3) increased
spacing between the two pathways as described
in the narrative on my mini-van and demonstrated
again by your experience cited above.
Good detective work!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> |
Bob, if you get a chance, take a look at the Rotax list as there is an
interestiing difference of opinion concerning Amps and wire sizes. I would like
your take on it.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
| From: | Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins(at)gmail.com> |
Charlie, were you able to get the pdf attachment in the original e-mail? It
shows how the grounds pass through the firewall.
I'm not sure, but I believe I used a goo-type thread sealant on the temp
sensor, not teflon tape. It's hard to check, because the accessory case is
buried in the firewall.
Sam
On Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Charlie England wrote:
> ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
>
>
> On 10/3/2010 8:49 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
>
>> I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic engine
>> indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite Quickie Q-200.
>>
>> The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces from
>> 190, to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of the other
>> instruments do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
>>
>> I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground". I am
>> attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground system. (I don't have
>> the backside of the forest of tabs grounding block mounted directly to the
>> firewall, because is just so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire
>> connecting the two.)
>>
>> The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground path
>> completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two wire sensor.
>> I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to access the accessory case,
>> and besides, I want to get at the root cause.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Sam Hoskins
>> Murphysboro, IL
>> www.samhoskins.blogspot.com <http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>
>>
>>
>> Hi Sam,
>
> Some have had problems with sensors being insulated from the engine itself
> by the thread sealant. Hard to believe, but that's what some have reported.
>
> How is the engine ground tied to your 'forest of tabs' common ground point?
> (Trying to use the steel motor mount as a conductor can cause problems.)
> What are you using for your firewall feed-through, a good conductor like
> brass or copper, or a steel bolt (not so good)?
>
> Then the obvious: check existing wiring for good, solid connections. Take
> close looks at all your sub-D connectors, especially if you used crimp type
> pins that can be added/removed. It's not unusual for one to partly back out
> of a housing, causing an intermittent connection.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
Oops. I love my Thunderbird email client, but one thing I *don't* care
for is that it puts any attachment list at the bottom of the email,
instead of on the upper right, like most programs.
Looks like you can cross off the firewall pass-through issue.
I'd 'exercise' the Fast-on connectors, especially on the engine side, &
pull test to be sure there aren't loose crimps. If things get more
stable after that, it would be a hint, anyway.
And don't forget the sub-D pins in their housing; that one has actually
happened to me on the back of a comm radio.
Charlie
On 10/3/2010 6:52 PM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
> Charlie, were you able to get the pdf attachment in
> the original e-mail? It shows how the grounds pass through the firewall.
>
> I'm not sure, but I believe I used a goo-type thread sealant on the
> temp sensor, not teflon tape. It's hard to check, because the
> accessory case is buried in the firewall.
>
> Sam
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Charlie England
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
>
> On 10/3/2010 8:49 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
>
> I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my
> electronic engine indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my
> all composite Quickie Q-200.
>
> The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly
> bounces from 190, to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A
> couple of the other instruments do the same, but the oil temp
> is the worst.
>
> I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad
> ground". I am attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation
> ground system. (I don't have the backside of the forest of
> tabs grounding block mounted directly to the firewall, because
> is just so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire
> connecting the two.)
>
> The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the
> ground path completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I
> try a GRT two wire sensor. I may do this, but I have to pull
> the engine to access the accessory case, and besides, I want
> to get at the root cause.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Sam Hoskins
> Murphysboro, IL
> www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
> <http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>
> <http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>
>
>
> Hi Sam,
>
> Some have had problems with sensors being insulated from the
> engine itself by the thread sealant. Hard to believe, but that's
> what some have reported.
>
> How is the engine ground tied to your 'forest of tabs' common
> ground point? (Trying to use the steel motor mount as a conductor
> can cause problems.) What are you using for your firewall
> feed-through, a good conductor like brass or copper, or a steel
> bolt (not so good)?
>
> Then the obvious: check existing wiring for good, solid
> connections. Take close looks at all your sub-D connectors,
> especially if you used crimp type pins that can be added/removed.
> It's not unusual for one to partly back out of a housing, causing
> an intermittent connection.
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
| From: | Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins(at)gmail.com> |
Simon, thank you for taking you time and your thoughtful explanation. I'll
print it out and take it to the airport with me.
Unfortunately, the Dynon temp sensor is a single wire system, that's why
they suggested going to the two wire GRT sensor, and like I said, I have to
pull the engine to install it. This means that I'll order the sensor now
and see if I can remember to install it, the next time I have the engine
pulled forward. You can see the problem with getting to the mags:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Sam.Hoskins/MyQuickieQ200?authkey=Gv1sRgCPnWj4CVu-_ZSg#5355132824613895954
I'll look over the Dynon installation instructions a bit more and see what
they call out for the grounds. I believe they specify a case ground to the
instrument panel. I probably ran a ground wire from the case to the d-sub
connector which I use a a common ground, per Bob's mini-bus method:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Minibus1.jpg
In the meantime I'll look over the connections and pin insertions.
Thanks again.
Sam
On Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 8:21 PM, S. Ramirez wrote:
> Sam,
>
> Ground problems are common on this forum, on other forums, and in the
> engineering world, where they literally start. The best way to look at a
> ground system from an engineering point of view is to model it using not
> only the components involved but also the wires. Wires are what cause most
> ground problems, especially if the design and/or construction is wrong.
>
> When Dynon says that you have a bad ground, they can be talking about
> faulty construction or faulty design. You are the designer in this case,
> not Dynon, and I believe they are telling you that you designed and
> constructed a "bad ground."
>
> I studied your diagram, and it lacks wire lengths, which are crucial to a
> good analysis. However, one can still study it, because there is anecdotal
> data from this topology. There is strong evidence that your problem lies in
> your sensors' grounding methods. In order to overkill the problem and have
> high probability of success, you should run individual sensor grounds from
> each sensor to the brass block located behind the instrument panel and on to
> the D180. In other words, ground wires should exist from each sensor all
> the way to the D180. Furthermore, you should twist each signal and its
> dedicated ground wire.
>
> Most people do not know why wires should be twisted. They are twisted in
> order to guarantee that the wires stay adjacent and as close to each other
> as possible. Why is this important? One reason it is because when a signal
> travels from the sensor to the D180, it actually travels in two directions.
> One direction is current flowing from the sensor to the D180 on the signal
> wire, and the other direction is the return current traveling back on the
> ground wire (or vice-versa). When these currents travel down a wire, they
> give off electrostatic and electromagnetic fields that potentially interfere
> with signals on other wires. If the signal and return wires are adjacent,
> their fields literally cancel each other out because of the two wires'
> mutually exclusive inductance. Furthermore, since they cancel, they do not
> interfere with other signals traveling down other wires. Of course, this is
> the ideal situation. In real life, fields don't actually cancel 100%, but
> the trick is to minimize interference as much as possible. Multistrips and
> striplines on circuit boards are two well known methods to transmit high
> frequency signals. In cables, twisted wires and shielded cables are two
> well known methods. The theory behind all of the above methods is the same,
> just different equations.
>
> In order to easily accomplish what I said above, I believe you should get
> two wire sensors where practical and run individual twisted wires from the
> sensors to the D180. If you cannot get two wire sensors, pick up the ground
> where the sensor ground meets the engine block. I'm quite certain but not
> totally sure that the D180 provides for individual sensor wires. If it
> doesn't, then you will have to run the D180's ground to a ground bar, not a
> connector, and connect all sensor grounds there. This will mean that all of
> the sensors will have their return currents flowing on that one wire for a
> short distance, which of course robs you of the mutually exclusive
> inductance effect for that length of the wire. If the wire is short enough,
> you will not see problems. If the Dynon D180 does provide for individual
> sensor return currents, you will notice that each return is adjacent to its
> respective signal. Now you know why it is so.
>
> It seems to me that since you already have your ground system designed and
> built, the easiest way to solve your problem is to first prove what I say
> above by running the twisted wires from the D180 to the sensors directly.
> This should be fairly easy if you start at the D180 and then group all the
> wires as a unit (taped or cable tied together) and run them back to the
> engine through the easiest placement possible, even if it's through the
> cabin. Then cut them to the correct length at the engine and connect them
> to the sensors. Then fire up the airplane and see what happens.
>
> Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
>
> Simon Ramirez
> Oviedo, FL USA
> LEZ N-44LZ
>
>
> On 10/3/2010 9:49 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
>
> I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic engine
> indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite Quickie Q-200.
>
> The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces from
> 190, to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of the other
> instruments do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
>
> I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground". I am
> attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground system. (I don't have
> the backside of the forest of tabs grounding block mounted directly to the
> firewall, because is just so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire
> connecting the two.)
>
> The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground path
> completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two wire sensor.
> I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to access the accessory case,
> and besides, I want to get at the root cause.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Sam Hoskins
> Murphysboro, IL
> www.samhoskins.blogspot.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Page 2-2 of the FlightDEK-D180
Installation Guide deals with grounding. The manual says, "If your panel is not
metal, or is otherwise isolated from engine ground, connect a 14 AWG or larger
wire to the instrument case." The manual does not say where to connect the
other end of the 14awg wire, but the engine case would be ideal. The Dynon EMS
pins 3, 5, 13, 16, & 17 are for grounding. If EMS pins 5, 16 & 17 are connected
directly to the brass forest of tabs, you could be assured that the Dynon
is well grounded. Doing this might not fix the problem but it is worth a try
and is easier than pulling the engine.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314604#314604
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Apparent grounding problems |
Many automobiles and aircraft use single wire sensors with no problems.
Temperature and pressure sensors typically are simply resistors that
flow a constant small DC current so there is often little advantage to
using sensors with two wires. My GRT EIS has numerous single sensor
wires bundled with ignition coil, injector coil, and alternator wires
with no problems. But yes the those ignition and injector coil wires
are twisted with their respective grounds since they are pulsed
relatively high current circuits.
I'd look for poor connections especially in the ground circuits since
multiple sensors are having issues. But also make sure any push on
connectors on the sensors themselves are also clean and tight. With
sensors fed by a common 5 volt supply, an erratic connection there could
also affect multiple sensors.
Speaking of grounds, I have two independent ground straps running from
my engine block to two bolts on the firewall forest of tabs. That is
generally recommended for electrically dependent engines. Darned if one
of them hadn't worked itself loose on the engine block (despite having
strain relief) on my last annual inspection.
Ken
Sam Hoskins wrote:
> Simon, thank you for taking you time and your thoughtful explanation.
> I'll print it out and take it to the airport with me.
>
> Unfortunately, the Dynon temp sensor is a single wire system, that's why
> they suggested going to the two wire GRT sensor, and like I said, I have
> to pull the engine to install it. This means that I'll order the sensor
> now and see if I can remember to install it, the next time I have the
> engine pulled forward. You can see the problem with getting to the
> mags: http://picasaweb.google.com/Sam.Hoskins/MyQuickieQ200?authkey=Gv1sRgCPnWj4CVu-_ZSg#5355132824613895954
>
> I'll look over the Dynon installation instructions a bit more and see
> what they call out for the grounds. I believe they specify a case
> ground to the instrument panel. I probably ran a ground wire from the
> case to the d-sub connector which I use a a common ground, per Bob's
> mini-bus method: http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Grounding/Minibus1.jpg
>
> In the meantime I'll look over the connections and pin insertions.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Sam
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 8:21 PM, S. Ramirez > wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> Ground problems are common on this forum, on other forums, and in
> the engineering world, where they literally start. The best way to
> look at a ground system from an engineering point of view is to
> model it using not only the components involved but also the wires.
> Wires are what cause most ground problems, especially if the design
> and/or construction is wrong.
>
> When Dynon says that you have a bad ground, they can be talking
> about faulty construction or faulty design. You are the designer in
> this case, not Dynon, and I believe they are telling you that you
> designed and constructed a "bad ground."
>
> I studied your diagram, and it lacks wire lengths, which are crucial
> to a good analysis. However, one can still study it, because there
> is anecdotal data from this topology. There is strong evidence that
> your problem lies in your sensors' grounding methods. In order to
> overkill the problem and have high probability of success, you
> should run individual sensor grounds from each sensor to the brass
> block located behind the instrument panel and on to the D180. In
> other words, ground wires should exist from each sensor all the way
> to the D180. Furthermore, you should twist each signal and its
> dedicated ground wire.
>
> Most people do not know why wires should be twisted. They are
> twisted in order to guarantee that the wires stay adjacent and as
> close to each other as possible. Why is this important? One reason
> it is because when a signal travels from the sensor to the D180, it
> actually travels in two directions. One direction is current
> flowing from the sensor to the D180 on the signal wire, and the
> other direction is the return current traveling back on the ground
> wire (or vice-versa). When these currents travel down a wire, they
> give off electrostatic and electromagnetic fields that potentially
> interfere with signals on other wires. If the signal and return
> wires are adjacent, their fields literally cancel each other out
> because of the two wires' mutually exclusive inductance.
> Furthermore, since they cancel, they do not interfere with other
> signals traveling down other wires. Of course, this is the ideal
> situation. In real life, fields don't actually cancel 100%, but the
> trick is to minimize interference as much as possible. Multistrips
> and striplines on circuit boards are two well known methods to
> transmit high frequency signals. In cables, twisted wires and
> shielded cables are two well known methods. The theory behind all
> of the above methods is the same, just different equations.
>
> In order to easily accomplish what I said above, I believe you
> should get two wire sensors where practical and run individual
> twisted wires from the sensors to the D180. If you cannot get two
> wire sensors, pick up the ground where the sensor ground meets the
> engine block. I'm quite certain but not totally sure that the D180
> provides for individual sensor wires. If it doesn't, then you will
> have to run the D180's ground to a ground bar, not a connector, and
> connect all sensor grounds there. This will mean that all of the
> sensors will have their return currents flowing on that one wire for
> a short distance, which of course robs you of the mutually exclusive
> inductance effect for that length of the wire. If the wire is short
> enough, you will not see problems. If the Dynon D180 does provide
> for individual sensor return currents, you will notice that each
> return is adjacent to its respective signal. Now you know why it is so.
>
> It seems to me that since you already have your ground system
> designed and built, the easiest way to solve your problem is to
> first prove what I say above by running the twisted wires from the
> D180 to the sensors directly. This should be fairly easy if you
> start at the D180 and then group all the wires as a unit (taped or
> cable tied together) and run them back to the engine through the
> easiest placement possible, even if it's through the cabin. Then
> cut them to the correct length at the engine and connect them to the
> sensors. Then fire up the airplane and see what happens.
>
> Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
>
> Simon Ramirez
> Oviedo, FL USA
> LEZ N-44LZ
>
>
>
> On 10/3/2010 9:49 AM, Sam Hoskins wrote:
>> I am experiencing a digital "flicker" in a couple of my electronic
>> engine indicators. I am using a Dynon D180 in my all composite
>> Quickie Q-200.
>>
>> The problem is most apparent in the oil temp. It rapidly bounces
>> from 190, to 235, to 200, etc, many times a second. A couple of
>> the other instruments do the same, but the oil temp is the worst.
>>
>> I contacted Dynon and they said most likely it is a "bad ground".
>> I am attaching a crude sketch of my instrumentation ground
>> system. (I don't have the backside of the forest of tabs
>> grounding block mounted directly to the firewall, because is just
>> so very hard to access, so I have an 8AWG wire connecting the two.)
>>
>> The Dynon oil temp sensor is a single wire unit, with the ground
>> path completed through the engine. Dynon suggested I try a GRT two
>> wire sensor. I may do this, but I have to pull the engine to
>> access the accessory case, and besides, I want to get at the root
>> cause.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Sam Hoskins
>> Murphysboro, IL
>> www.samhoskins.blogspot.com <http://www.samhoskins.blogspot.com>
>
>
> *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 04:12 PM 10/3/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Bob, if you get a chance, take a look at the Rotax list as there is an
>interestiing difference of opinion concerning Amps and wire sizes. I
>would like
>your take on it.
I've capture it to a thumb drive but it needs
a LOT more attention to it than I have right
now. I'm headed back to M.L. in a few minutes
and I'll see if I can get to it tonight or
in the morning.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diode type, size |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Dan,
Radio Shack IN 5400 type diodes are the ones that Bob has recommended for your
purpose. I think mine were IN 5402's. If I remember correctly, the last number
doesn't have much bearing on suitability for our purposes
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314706#314706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diode type, size |
Thanks John, I appreciate the reply.
Dan
----- Original Message ----
From: jonlaury <jonlaury(at)impulse.net>
Sent: Mon, October 4, 2010 5:44:55 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Diode type, size
Dan,
Radio Shack IN 5400 type diodes are the ones that Bob has recommended for your
purpose. I think mine were IN 5402's. If I remember correctly, the last number
doesn't have much bearing on suitability for our purposes
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314706#314706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | jab 3300 alternator |
| From: | bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com> |
to fuse the alterrnator do i need to fuse all wires or just a white one.
thanks
bob noffs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Parker <gptailwind(at)msn.com> |
Bob: I am searching the internet for rocker switches. I found your site a
nd read about rocker switches and found I didn't know any thing.I had a che
ap switch fail that was one of the less than $2.00 ones for my strobes. Al
so that I should probably be using the gold contacts.My question is--you me
ntion that the switches you sell are good ones. Is there a catalog or lis
t? Thanks: Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
Thanks
Tim Andres
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/show/chapter22.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>>Bob, if you get a chance, take a look at the Rotax list as there is an
>>interestiing difference of opinion concerning Amps and wire sizes.
>>I would like
>>your take on it.
>
> I've capture it to a thumb drive but it needs
> a LOT more attention to it than I have right
> now. I'm headed back to M.L. in a few minutes
> and I'll see if I can get to it tonight or
> in the morning.
Okay, I got it done. See:
http://tinyurl.com/25t4lh3
You might suggest that those folks also join us on
the AeroElectric-List.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net> |
This should work better.
http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
Tim Andres
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Andres
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 9:03 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z10-8 review
I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
Thanks
Tim Andres
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/show/chapter22.html
23:34:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
In the attached, Ground Power switch is a 3 position (On)-Maintain-On DPDT with
indicator lamps. I want to use the (On) switch as a test for power to the GP
jack to know when GP is connected to the plane before throwing the switch to the
battery.
I was going to just wire the switch from the positive of the GPJ to the (On) through
the switch lamp to ground.
Question: If I do that, do I still have OV protection from the 9024 module? It
seems that the test circuit is another parallel circuit like the contactor coil
circuit and that OVP is preserved.
Thanks,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314833#314833
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual__323.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Rocker switch alternatives |
At 11:00 AM 10/5/2010, you wrote:
Bob: I am searching the internet for rocker switches. I found your
site and read about rocker switches and found I didn't know any
thing. I had a cheap switch fail that was one of the less than $2.00
ones for my strobes. Also that I should probably be using the gold
contacts. My question is--you mention that the switches you sell are
good ones. Is there a catalog or list? Thanks: Gordon
Strobes are about the most demanding of all systems
when it comes to control switch selection. Readers
on this List have reported numerous difficulties
with switches having riveted terminals.
goto http://matronics.com/search
and search the AeroElectric archives for
carling & failures
(use the ampersand in the search string)
you'll get a dump on several threads involving
failures of Carling switches and/or terminals that
were mated to tabs on the switches.
The numbers of incidents were higher than we'd
like and we never did really deduce a single
root cause. A number of carcasses I've inspected
showed a variety of causes including poor fast-on
crimps, fast-on grips loose, rivets in switches
loosening and internal fits for part of the
switches. Interestingly enough, switches used
on strobes have demonstrated the highest rates.
It's unfortunate that you're locked into rocker
switches . . . your options for increased robustness
at attractive prices are much reduced.
Here's some alternatives you could try:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=480-2144-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-1492-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=450-1673-ND
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Boddicker <trumanst(at)neitel.net> |
| Subject: | Plane Power Alt. |
Bob,
I bought a Plane Power alternator and want to install it on my Tri Q 200. I have
the crowbar over voltage module, wired as per your recommendations. I will be
replacing a ND IR atl. for various reasons. The Plane Power is also IR. Can
I just hook the field wire to the same wire I have for the field wire on the old
unit. Their instructions lead me to believe it to be that simple. I have a
5A circuit breaker in the current system, and that is what they call out. Am
I missing something?
Thanks for all you do,
Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 190 hrs
Luana, IA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
At 05:17 PM 10/5/2010, you wrote:
Bob,
I bought a Plane Power alternator and want to install it on my Tri Q
200. I have the crowbar over voltage module, wired as per your
recommendations. I will be replacing a ND IR atl. for various
reasons. The Plane Power is also IR. Can I just hook the field wire
to the same wire I have for the field wire on the old unit. Their
instructions lead me to believe it to be that simple. I have a 5A
circuit breaker in the current system, and that is what they call
out. Am I missing something?
Last time I looked at the PP alternators, they
had crowbar ov protection built in . . . See:
http://plane-power.com/images/AL12_EI60%20Installation.pdf
are you using something different that does not
feature built in protection?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
having the group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
The application is a Cozy MK IV all electric, single mag, 1 EI, Single
Alternator and a brown out battery
Thanks, comments appreciated.
Tim Andres
http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
PS, I posted this to the group earlier, but evidently it did not go thru.
Sorry if this is a duplicate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Hawes <andy717(at)comcast.net> |
Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
cord.
Thank you,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
| From: | Kevin Boddicker <trumanst(at)neitel.net> |
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage module wired to
trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the contactor in the B lead would
open. Essentially I would have two OV systems. Both triggered by a 5A breaker.
Is there any harm or potential harm in this?
Thanks
Kevin
On Oct 5, 2010, at 10:17 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 05:17 PM 10/5/2010, you wrote:
>
> Bob,
> I bought a Plane Power alternator and want to install it on my Tri Q 200. I have
the crowbar over voltage module, wired as per your recommendations. I will
be replacing a ND IR atl. for various reasons. The Plane Power is also IR. Can
I just hook the field wire to the same wire I have for the field wire on the
old unit. Their instructions lead me to believe it to be that simple. I have
a 5A circuit breaker in the current system, and that is what they call out. Am
I missing something?
>
> Last time I looked at the PP alternators, they
> had crowbar ov protection built in . . . See:
>
> http://plane-power.com/images/AL12_EI60%20Installation.pdf
>
> are you using something different that does not
> feature built in protection?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> |
Bob, Thanks for the time spent on this topic. It is interesting how easy it
can =0Abe to gather a differing opinion on what is going on "inside the wi
re". Very =0Ainformative take on how to determine the size of Batt cable...
it helped!=0AThanks again,=0ADan=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________
____=0AFrom: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>=0ATo
: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, October 5, 2010 10:48:07 AM
=0ASubject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bob's take?=0A=0A=0ABob, if you get a ch
ance, take a look at the Rotax list as there is an=0A>>interestiing differe
nce of opinion concerning Amps and wire sizes. I would =0Alike=0A>>your tak
e on it.=0A--- I've capture it to a thumb drive but it needs=0A--
- a LOT more attention to it than I have right=0A--- now. I'm heade
d back to M.L. in a few minutes=0A--- and I'll see if I can get to it
tonight or=0A--- in the morning.=0A- Okay, I got it done. See:=0A
=0Ahttp://tinyurl.com/25t4lh3 =0A=0A- You might suggest that those folks
=============== =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
> Also that I should probably be using the gold contacts.
Gordon,
Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument signals. However,
gold contacts can not handle large currents like strobe lights. Mouser.com
and Digikey.com offer a large selection of switches along with their ratings.
Keep in mind that snap action AC switches rated for 120vac or higher can also
handle the same current at 12vdc. The switches that came with my RV-12 kit from
Van's Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also have a DC rating, even
if it is not published. Rocker switches might look cool, but they take up more
room on the panel and cost more than equally rated toggle switches.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314911#314911
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z 10-8 review |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
You might consider over-voltage protection, unless it is built into the alternator.
The avionics master switch is an unnecessary single point of failure.
Schematic looks good.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314912#314912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
having the group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
The application is a Cozy MK IV all electric, single mag, 1 EI, Single
Alternator and a brown out battery Thanks, comments appreciated.
Tim Andres
http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
PS, I posted this to the group earlier, but evidently it did not go thru.
Sorry if this is a duplicate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
> do I still have OV protection from the 9024 module?
No, you do not. The bottom half of the switch needs to be in series with the circuit
breaker, not in parallel. Also, only one diode is needed.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314915#314915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 08:22 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>Bob, Thanks for the time spent on this topic. It is interesting how
>easy it can be to gather a differing opinion on what is going on
>"inside the wire". Very informative take on how to determine the
>size of Batt cable...it helped!
>Thanks again, Dan
No problem. I've received a couple of private e-mails that
took me to task for what they perceived as a pejorative
effort personal to some of the thread-participants. None
of those individuals were subscribers to the AeroElectric-List.
I assured them that the mission throughout the AeroElectric
Connection sponsored activities is the discovery of physics
that drives simple-ideas and art for building OBAM
aircraft. It was interesting that so many words and ideas
(some wrong) were offered in a thread that did not go
to a practical answer for the original quester.
Thanks for bringing it to my attention. It was a useful
exercise for me too.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
> Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument signals. Ho
wever=2C gold contacts can not handle large currents like strobe lights. Mo
user.com and Digikey.com offer a large selection of switches along with the
ir ratings. Keep in mind that snap action AC switches rated for 120vac or h
igher can also handle the same current at 12vdc. The switches that came wit
h my RV-12 kit from Van's Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also hav
e a DC rating=2C even if it is not published. Rocker switches might look co
ol=2C but they take up more room on the panel and cost more than equally ra
ted toggle switches.
> Joe
Joe=2C Gordon=2C list members=2C
I was going to ask that very question a few days regarding the ability to
use an AC rated switch
for a DC operation. Thanks!! I have the Dornan 10A 125v AC switches that
I got from Auto Zone.
I am installing them in my panel presently.
Coincidently=2C I was also building the strobe system for my plane. I re
ad somewhere recently that the
reason switches have a bit of a problem working with strobes is due to arci
ng. Evidently=2C if the super
high voltage spark leaves behind a little residual voltage=2C this will cau
se arcing in the switch=2C and the arcing is
what destroys it. Someone suggested the remedy is to fix the tabs on the s
witch with a capacitor.
Supposedly=2C the capacitor will absorb this latent spark=2C and keep the s
witch in good shape.
I don't know if this is true=2C but someone said it in a blog I read rece
ntly=2C when I was doing some
research to see if my switches would work (and especially for the strobe).
I also don't remember the capacitor
rating they recommended=2C either. Has anyone heard of this=2C and know th
e correct size cap?
Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Z 10-8 review |
Thanks Joe
The Plane Power units have it built in. Also an Avioncs switch failure is not an
issue as most of the equip. can be fed with the Aux switch.
The Garmin and GRT equip. have dual feeds.
Thanks, Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 6, 2010, at 7:39 AM, "user9253" wrote:
>
> You might consider over-voltage protection, unless it is built into the alternator.
> The avionics master switch is an unnecessary single point of failure.
> Schematic looks good.
> Joe
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314912#314912
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gold contacts? |
> Also that I should probably be using the gold contacts.
Gordon,
Gold contacts offer low resistance for low voltage instrument
signals. However, gold contacts can not handle large currents like
strobe lights. Mouser.com and Digikey.com offer a large selection of
switches along with their ratings. Keep in mind that snap action AC
switches rated for 120vac or higher can also handle the same current
at 12vdc. The switches that came with my RV-12 kit from Van's
Aircraft are AC rated. AC rated switches also have a DC rating, even
if it is not published. Rocker switches might look cool, but they
take up more room on the panel and cost more than equally rated
toggle switches.
An excellent point Joe. I would elaborate by offering
the notion that the switch failures we've studied
here on the list had little to do with "current ratings".
Every failed device we studied exhibited the effects of
overheating at some location OTHER than mated contacts
within the switches. Combining this fact with a market
history going back 5 decades for these switches suggests
that the failures were precipitated by forces outside
design goals for the switch.
As you've noted, gold contacts are specialty products
useful only in VERY low current applications. Microswitch
suggests 1A as the upper limit for longevity in their
gold contact basic switches. Lower still is better yet.
Years ago at Beech we were buying $high$ crystal can
relays that were rated at 3A but came with gold plated
contacts.
Emacs!
The idea was that the designer could use ONE device to
populate both 'high' current and 'small signal' systems.
A fresh, out-of-the-box relay could be installed in
an instrumentation system that required consistency
of gold contacts . . . or you could install it in
a 2A service application and let the gold burn away
exposing the more ordinary silver-cadmium contacts.
Somebody in QA decided to do 100% receiving inspection
on these relays and guess what? They tested them
for a few dozen cycles at max rated current, blessed
them as 'functional' and put them back in the box.
It took some time and a LOT of dollars to figure
out why some of our VOR/LOC/GS and thermocouple
signal systems were failing. It then took more time
and dollars to figure out how many airplanes went
to the field with "tested and blessed" relays
installed in small signal locations.
This exercise prompted a change to call out
separate part numbers for the low-level and
high-level systems. All because it was less
expensive and more reliable to control the
configuration by part number than to educate every
individual in the supply chain as to the unique
features of the relay with an expectation that
they would leave them alone.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
At 07:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event
the contactor in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two
OV systems.
Why two ov systems?
Both triggered by a 5A breaker. Is there any harm or potential harm in this?
No harm . . . but the rationale is mystifying.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
>cord.
That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
cords quoted for a product but as a general
rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
They are manufactured to a specific application.
Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
which you can cut out a length suitable to your
needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Hawes <andy717(at)comcast.net> |
Thank you -- I=B9ll give that a shot
On 10/6/10 10:38 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>> wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to b
ase
>> cord.
>
> That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
> cords quoted for a product but as a general
> rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
> They are manufactured to a specific application.
>
> Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
> which you can cut out a length suitable to your
> needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Hawes <andy717(at)comcast.net> |
Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50 mA
current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
Beautiful, thank you!
On 10/6/10 10:38 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> At 06:58 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>>
>> Wondering if anyone knows how I might obtain coil cord. Looking for a 5
>> wire, 22 gauge conduit via coil cord similar to a telephone handset to base
>> cord.
>
> That can be tough. I've had several custom coil
> cords quoted for a product but as a general
> rule, these are not an off-the-shelf product.
> They are manufactured to a specific application.
>
> Your best bet is to find an existing cord from
> which you can cut out a length suitable to your
> needs. The only thing I could find in a hurry . . .
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2b9lmhv
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Page <jpx(at)qenesis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Z10-8 Review |
Tim,
Before you wire it, I suggest you check that the 430W Aircraft Power 1
and Aircraft Power 2 are internally isolated in some way. I suspect
(but do not know) that they are just connected together.
If so, then your clearance delivery switch will backfeed the entire
Avionics Bus, which is not what you intend.
Perhaps power the 430W Comm section, rather than the ICOM, since you
can transfer frequencies from the airport data instead of manually
entering them ?
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
> From: "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z10-8 review
>
> I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
> having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
> goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
>
> Tim Andres
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net |
| Subject: | Re: Z10-8 Review |
Thanks Jeff, good thoughts. I will verify on the 430 but I have been told this
is the intended purpose of the second power input. The GRT units are diode isolated.
The other thought is a good also, Thanks
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 6, 2010, at 9:04 AM, Jeff Page wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Before you wire it, I suggest you check that the 430W Aircraft Power 1 and Aircraft
Power 2 are internally isolated in some way. I suspect (but do not know)
that they are just connected together.
> If so, then your clearance delivery switch will backfeed the entire Avionics
Bus, which is not what you intend.
>
> Perhaps power the 430W Comm section, rather than the ICOM, since you can transfer
frequencies from the airport data instead of manually entering them ?
>
> Jeff Page
> Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
>
>
>> From: "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z10-8 review
>>
>> I have my plan drawn out and posted to my web site. I would appreciate
>> having this group look it over. There are notes on the page regarding design
>> goals and a different way of feeding the Aux battery I'm considering.
>>
>> Tim Andres
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/2c5kbzd
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and installing the wires,
it seems these connectors will do the trick while living inside my control
stick:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314936#314936
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small
>50 mA current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>
>Beautiful, thank you!
Just got home from the Post Office and had
an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
universal automotive power adapters for
some years. The product consists of a switch-
mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
module . . .
Emacs!
The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
with the power supply on the other end to customize
its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
pull the adapter off we see . . .
Emacs!
Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
get one from your local Radio Shack
http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
at least be able to splice it back together and press it
into service elsewhere.
Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
$1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
At 11:54 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>After cutting off the ears, soldering the cases together and
>installing the wires, it seems these connectors will do the trick
>while living inside my control stick:
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83510
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=83516
>
>http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84258
Nice work my friend. I've captured your pictures and
plan to add them to the earlier article I published
on modified connectors. Thanks for sharing.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio Shack 3 row 15 pin d-Sub |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hi Bob
Thx. again for your advice.
I will share two other connector mods, your ides perhaps with a twist or two.
I needed to exit out of a 50 pin machined gold plated D-sub connector. There are
slim pickings for 50 pin covers no less something small, light and user friendly
(ability to tighten aft screw). I modified this connector using a thin stainless
tube (McMaster Carr) JB KWIKed to the side of the cover to allow tightening
of the aft stainless screw (heat shrink protection where wires will rest).
I used stainless cap screws from McMaster with a patch of adhesive on it. Kinda
like using suspenders and a belt, I also added a #3 star washer (#3 fits
#4 screw better IMHO), and a plastic thin washer underneath to hold the screw
captive:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82017
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82020
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82023
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82026
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82032
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82029
Another D-sub connector I made a trapezoid shaped bracket to use it as a bulkhead
connector. As far as the cover, I had to thin a little so the stainless cap
screw adhesive ended up being the perfect length. I used the thin plastic washers
on the bottom to capture screw. I needed to turn the jackscrew standoffs
a little to fit with bracket and plastic washer (aluminium hex) extra thickness:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82280
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=82283
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84179
Not quite sure if it falls in under a modification to a connector, but it is a
modification to holding the wires that go to the connector. On my port lower panel
insert there is not a real easy way to hold wires in place and allow install
and removal. I am using a piece of carbon fiber with double heat shrink where
it is trying to short the two legs of panel mount LEDs (CF conducts a little).
Thus i am using the panel mount LEDs to stand off the piece of CF which I
am tying wires to. I can't remember where i saw something similar, but pretty
sure it was on Aeroelectric:
See Lower port insert wiring 1 thru 5 near the bottom of page:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=27305&g2_page=2
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314958#314958
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Boddicker <trumanst(at)neitel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
On Oct 6, 2010, at 10:32 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
>
> At 07:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
> Yes,
> I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the contactor
in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two OV systems.
>
> Why two ov systems?
There is one built into my plane as it sits, using the module
that I bought from B&C BC207-1 and AEC9034-1,
And there is one built into the new plane power alt. I have the
module that will open the 5A breaker if there is an OV event with
my current ND alt. The module is also used to test an OV event, and
indicates low voltage.
Are you saying I should disconnect the OVM I got from B&C and
just use the OV protection built into the Plane Power alt.
>
> Both triggered by a 5A breaker. Is there any harm or potential harm in
this?
>
> No harm . . . but the rationale is mystifying.
I don't know if I should remove the OVM I got from B&C, or leave
it in place. If I leave it in place, I would have two sensors.
The OVM from B&C and what ever Plane Power uses. I will attach a
pic of the OVM. Hope it gets through.
Kevin
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Hawes <andy717(at)comcast.net> |
wow,
if this is a typical response from this group, I am very grateful.
Thanks very much Bob for your time here. I=B9ll definitely look into these
options.
Thanks again,
Andy
On 10/6/10 3:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>> Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50
mA
>> current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>>
>> Beautiful, thank you!
>
> Just got home from the Post Office and had
> an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
> universal automotive power adapters for
> some years. The product consists of a switch-
> mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
> module . . .
>
>
>
> The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
> that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
> with the power supply on the other end to customize
> its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
> pull the adapter off we see . . .
>
>
>
> Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
> and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
> 'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
> be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
> get one from your local Radio Shack
>
> http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
>
> No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
> cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
> should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
> your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
> at least be able to splice it back together and press it
> into service elsewhere.
>
> Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
> at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
> ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
> $1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
> boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
>
> Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
> for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
> dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Hawes <andy717(at)comcast.net> |
As well,
you got me thinking on doing a search for =B3coiled power cord=B2 and came
across this site:
http://www.philatron.com/NewCatalog/TAB7/Coiled_Cords_24-22Gauge.html
Not sure on pricing, I=B9ll check tomorrow.
Thanks again for the detailed research --
Andy
On 10/6/10 3:16 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> At 10:50 AM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>> Looks good to me. The gauge is off but I just need to carry a small 50
mA
>> current from a switch to a relay. Maybe 2 feet total.
>>
>> Beautiful, thank you!
>
> Just got home from the Post Office and had
> an inspiration. I've been using the I-Go
> universal automotive power adapters for
> some years. The product consists of a switch-
> mode power supply mounted in a cigar lighter
> module . . .
>
>
>
> The appliance-end of the device mounts a "power tip"
> that not only mates with your appliance of choice, it communicates
> with the power supply on the other end to customize
> its output to be consistent with the appliance. When you
> pull the adapter off we see . . .
>
>
>
> Given the highly customized nature of this connector pair
> and the huge production volumes, I doubt that they put
> 'extra' pins in the connector just for grins. but I could
> be wrong. I'm reluctant to cut my adapter up but you can
> get one from your local Radio Shack
>
> http://tinyurl.com/29984nq
>
> No doubt other electronics outlets sell them too. When you
> cut the connector off, leave a long enough pig-tail so that
> should you discover that the coil cord contains fewer than
> your needed 5 wires (or my best-guess of 6 wires) you'll
> at least be able to splice it back together and press it
> into service elsewhere.
>
> Another possible source is the "wall wart" box found
> at many thrift stores. I've often found wall-warts having
> ratings suitable to some task . . . then generally cost
> $1.00 or less. I've seen automotive power cords in these
> boxes too. One just MIGHT turn up an IGo cord.
>
> Option 3. Just checked Ebay and purchased a power cord
> for $4 including shipping. As soon as it gets here, I'll
> dissect the thing and report findings to the group.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
Yes,
I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage
module wired to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the
contactor in the B lead would open. Essentially I would have two OV systems.
Okay, since the PlanePower product is self contained
and features ov protection I recommend you remove the
previously installed system. I.e., install the PP
alternator per manufacturer's instructions.
There is one built into my plane as it sits, using the module that I
bought from B&C BC207-1/AEC9034-1,
And there is one built into the new plane power alt. I have the
module that will open the 5A breaker if there is an OV event with my
current ND alt. The module is also used to test an OV event, and
indicates low voltage.
Are you saying I should disconnect the OVM I got from B&C and just
use the OV protection built into the Plane Power alt.
The BC207/AEC9034 is a simple OV/LV annunciator and has
no protective features. It was designed for very
small PM alternator/battery systems common to
the 2-cycle powered ultralights. In your case,
the OV warning would NEVER be expected to
operate because the ov protection system would
shut the system down so fast that you'll never
see an OV indication . . . only an LV indication
after the alternator is shut down.
The OVM from B&C and what ever Plane Power uses. I will attach a pic
of the OVM. Hope it gets through.
That's the legacy crowbar ov protection module
produced first by AEC, then by B&C and now by
both companies. Yes, take that unit out along
with the associated b-lead contactor.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3300 alternator fuse |
| From: | bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com> |
i recently heard of a jab installation where the regulator shorted out ,
causing damage to the firewall!
shouldn't the connection between the alternator and the regulator be fused
? which wire?
i was told the Z schematic doesn't show any such fuses.
bob noffs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
| From: | Kevin Boddicker <trumanst(at)neitel.net> |
Bob,
You are a good teacher! That is exactly what I thought I should do, just looking
for verification.
Again thanks a million for all you do and the help you offer to everyone. I am
certain many others feel the same way.
Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 190hrs
Luana, IA.
On Oct 6, 2010, at 9:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> Yes,
> I am using the basic Z-11, with a B&C over voltage/under voltage module wired
to trip a 5A breaker. In case of an OV event the contactor in the B lead would
open. Essentially I would have two OV systems.
>
> Okay, since the PlanePower product is self contained
> and features ov protection I recommend you remove the
> previously installed system. I.e., install the PP
> alternator per manufacturer's instructions.
>
>
> There is one built into my plane as it sits, using the module that I bought from
B&C BC207-1/AEC9034-1,
> And there is one built into the new plane power alt. I have the module that will
open the 5A breaker if there is an OV event with my current ND alt. The module
is also used to test an OV event, and indicates low voltage.
> Are you saying I should disconnect the OVM I got from B&C and just use the OV
protection built into the Plane Power alt.
>
> The BC207/AEC9034 is a simple OV/LV annunciator and has
> no protective features. It was designed for very
> small PM alternator/battery systems common to
> the 2-cycle powered ultralights. In your case,
> the OV warning would NEVER be expected to
> operate because the ov protection system would
> shut the system down so fast that you'll never
> see an OV indication . . . only an LV indication
> after the alternator is shut down.
>
> The OVM from B&C and what ever Plane Power uses. I will attach a pic of the OVM.
Hope it gets through.
>
> That's the legacy crowbar ov protection module
> produced first by AEC, then by B&C and now by
> both companies. Yes, take that unit out along
> with the associated b-lead contactor.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alt. |
At 07:35 AM 10/7/2010, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>You are a good teacher! That is exactly what I thought I should do,
>just looking for verification.
>Again thanks a million for all you do and the help you offer to
>everyone. I am certain many others feel the same way.
>
I'm pleased that you find the service useful!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 alternator fuse |
At 06:35 AM 10/7/2010, you wrote:
>i recently heard of a jab installation where the regulator shorted
>out , causing damage to the firewall!
> shouldn't the connection between the alternator and the regulator
> be fused ? which wire?
> i was told the Z schematic doesn't show any such fuses.
This is a mixed bag. Just because something overheats
and even catches fire does not necessarily mean that
a current overload was involved. I've worked a number of
airborne failures that produced severe damage and/or
fires that never tripped a breaker.
Breakers and fuses are designed to clear the "hard fault" . . .
a current flow that is several times greater than the
protection rating. The fault clears in milliseconds to
perhaps a few seconds. While the currents are high,
the duration is short and total energy dumped is relatively
small.
"Soft faults" are long term, intermittent shorts or
sustained arcing scenarios where current flow is not
great enough to trip the protection. Nonetheless, LARGE
quantities of electrical energy is converted to heat that
can erode structural materials and ignite combustibles.
It wouldn't hurt to fuse the alternator leads. A 30A
in-line fuse in one lead would provide protection against
hard rectifier/regulator faults but NOT necessarily
prevent the incident you described.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Joe,
In the attached, how would you wire the switch so that the contactor coil is not
energized when using the momentary half of the switch and yet preserving OV
protection for both halves?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315041#315041
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gpj_test_switch_tentative_137.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
John,
That is hard to answer without knowing exactly how the switch operates and what
you are trying to accomplish. But here is an educated guess based on your first
post.
Connect switch terminals 2 and 5 together.
Connect a lamp between terminal 3 and terminal 4 (or between 3 & 6, depending on
when you want the lamp to light). The lamp should be very low wattage or an
LED so that current through the lamp is not enough to energize the contactor
coil.
If the contactor coil is not energized, then you do not need OV protection.
If you provide more details about your goals and a data sheet for the switch, then
I can confirm or modify my suggestions.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315056#315056
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
John,
Disregard my previous suggestion. I deleted my bad advice. I am going away for
a couple of days and will think about your circuit. Meanwhile, explain exactly
how you want the circuit to work.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315082#315082
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
John,
How about this circuit?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9Rmupq9lpCs/TK8pD8j5DCI/AAAAAAAAAFA/CwjWt8-Vr8o/s640/Gnd%20Pwr001.jpg
Move the switch up between the diode and the contactor coil. The OV protection
will always pop the breaker regardless of switch position. The switch will enable
the contactor coil or the lamp. The other half of the switch can control
the aux alternator as in your original circuit.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315100#315100
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3300 alternator fuse |
| From: | bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com> |
thank you bob for the reply to my question.
bob noffs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Joe,
That's great!
I incorporated it in the attached.
I'm still a bit unclear about why the diode is located where it is, but as long
as it's correct, I'll read up on that later.
Thanks a bunch,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315140#315140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_a__114.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Positive Ground Power correction and drawing cleanup
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315145#315145
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_a__188.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
Jon;
You're showing a jumper between the starter push button and the starter
warning light. This means that as soon as you engage the starter with the
push button it will latch itself on via this jumper. Probably not a good
idea.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 4:46 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
>
>
> Positive Ground Power correction and drawing cleanup
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315145#315145
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_a__188.pdf
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
Jon;
I thought I remembered earlier in this thread that the lamp and diode in
your ground power connector wiring was to warn of reverse polarity?? You
have in the drawings just submitted, however, connected the external power
supply (battery) directly across your auxiliary alternator. Should this be
reversed polarity the alternator will be seen as a direct short and most
probably its internal rectifiers will instantly fry long before the 40 amp
ANL can protect it. To provide reverse polarity protection the external
battery should not be connected to anything aboard the aircraft unless the
polarity is proven to be correct first.
The diode location you're querying causes the lamp to light only if the
ground power is correct polarity and only allows you to close the contactor
if the polarity is correct, but please note the issue above.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 4:46 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
>
>
> Positive Ground Power correction and drawing cleanup
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315145#315145
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_a__188.pdf
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Bob,
Thanks for looking this over.
The starter jumper was an errant line that was left over after moving some things
around. I removed it and connected the warning lamp circuit to the 'I' terminal
of the contactor that receives bus voltage when the contactor is closed.
> The diode location you're querying causes the lamp to light only if the
> ground power is correct polarity and only allows you to close the contactor
> if the polarity is correct, but please note the issue above.
So wouldn't that provide the needed protection for the alternator? The way I see
it is that, if GP polarity is reversed, it only becomes a problem if the Stby
Alt switch is closed.
I confess that I'm at the ragged end of understanding the circuit and the problems
that you foresee. Do you see a solution?
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315186#315186
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
Jon;
No.
The problem of frying the alternator isn't caused by closing the contactor,
(which rightly won't close via the grnd power switch if the polarity is
reversed, or as you suggest via the stby alt switch from the main battery
regardless of external battery) it's caused by the fact that the external
battery is directly connected across the aux alternator as soon as the plug
is inserted into the ground power jack. This is a non-issue with the
polarity correct, but it is great cause for concern if the polarity is
reversed. This becomes an even greater issue (potentially explosive) should
the external power be reversed AND the stby alt switch turned on, because
you then have both batteries connected in series and shorted. (24Volts dead
short, potentially thousands of amps depending on the type of batteries
involved) Providing two separate pathways to activate the contactor raises
many of these issues because while you've protected one pathway, the other
pathway (unprotected) can still activate the circuit.
If you follow the electrical pathways represented by the wires in your
latest drawing from your ground power plug, you will find both the plug and
alternator grounded of course and thus connected, but you will also find the
central pin of the plug connected to the ground power contactor, then via
the 40A ANL thru the shunt directly to the alternator. Therefore any
external battery is directly connected across the aux alternator regardless
of the state of the stby alt switch, grnd power switch, or contactor.
One solution is to connect the 40A ANL to the opposite side of the
contactor, but this then raises other issues with being able to isolate the
aux alternator when desired etc. and you still have two independent ways to
activate the contactor in spite of potential reverse polarity/incorrect
voltage etc. The most obvious, simple, safest solution is separate
contactors for ground power and the aux alternator, then all of these issues
disappear, and the overvoltage/reverse polarity circuit as suggested by Joe
works perfectly, but if I remember back far enough this is what this whole
exercise was to avoid in the first place.
So, no, sorry, without keeping it simple, I don't have a satisfactory
solution.
As Bob Nuckolls has always advocated, manipulation of any switch, at any
time, in any combination or configuration, should never have the potential
to create smoke, flames, or any other expensive deleterious consequence,
which is why he tries to educate us all to follow the basic simple ideas
without adding complexities with their potential associated problems.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 1:17 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
>
>
> Bob,
>
> Thanks for looking this over.
>
> The starter jumper was an errant line that was left over after moving some
things
> around. I removed it and connected the warning lamp circuit to the 'I'
terminal of the
> contactor that receives bus voltage when the contactor is closed.
>
>
> > The diode location you're querying causes the lamp to light only if the
> > ground power is correct polarity and only allows you to close the
contactor
> > if the polarity is correct, but please note the issue above.
>
>
> So wouldn't that provide the needed protection for the alternator? The way
I see it is
> that, if GP polarity is reversed, it only becomes a problem if the Stby
Alt switch is
> closed.
> I confess that I'm at the ragged end of understanding the circuit and the
problems
> that you foresee. Do you see a solution?
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315186#315186
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
Jon;
Maybe I've misunderstood your misunderstanding of the reverse polarity
concern.
When a battery of correct polarity is directly connected to an alternator,
as it is normally in all of our cars and trucks and as it is in the ground
power battery circuit in your electrical drawing, then the rectifier diodes
in the alternator represent an almost infinite resistance to current flow
from the battery to ground through the alternator windings. (an open
circuit) However if the battery is connected in reverse polarity, then the
rectifier diodes represent almost zero resistance to current flow to ground
from the battery through the alternator windings. (A short circuit) This
high current flow supplied by the battery in a "shorted" state will
potentially fry/melt/burn out, the diodes which are not capable of safely
conducting this much current, they are only designed to carry alternator
rated output plus some safety margin. One must remember that a diode is a
one way valve for electricity, conducting in one directing and not in the
other. In normal alternator operation when the voltage generated in the
alternator exceeds the battery voltage sufficiently then current flows from
the alternator into the battery. When the battery voltage exceeds the
voltage generated within the alternator then no current flows.
Reverse the battery polarity and the currents reverse. Alternator represents
a dead short to the battery, not an open circuit as it does with correct
polarity. (The winding resistance does limit current to some extent, but the
battery still sees essentially a short circuit if reversed.)
Does that help??
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 1:17 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
>
>
> Bob,
>
> Thanks for looking this over.
>
> The starter jumper was an errant line that was left over after moving some
things
> around. I removed it and connected the warning lamp circuit to the 'I'
terminal of the
> contactor that receives bus voltage when the contactor is closed.
>
>
> > The diode location you're querying causes the lamp to light only if the
> > ground power is correct polarity and only allows you to close the
contactor
> > if the polarity is correct, but please note the issue above.
>
>
> So wouldn't that provide the needed protection for the alternator? The way
I see it is
> that, if GP polarity is reversed, it only becomes a problem if the Stby
Alt switch is
> closed.
> I confess that I'm at the ragged end of understanding the circuit and the
problems
> that you foresee. Do you see a solution?
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315186#315186
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Bob McC,
> Does that help??
Immensely. And I'm extremely appreciative of your efforts to explain the problem
in detail to my electrically pedestrian mind. But I need to study my drawing
vis a vis your tutorial to fully understand the hazard that you've identified.
At some point, Bob N thought that the shared contactor would work and the diode
location was jockeyed around for reverse polarity/OV protection and I didn't
fully understand then what the issues were. I think I may have complicated
the circuit since then, so I need to retrace steps.
I want to understand this, but adding a contactor may be the most expedient way
of getting down the runway.
Thanks,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315212#315212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
John; (Is it Jon or John??? Got Jon from your e-mail address. Sorry if I
was wrong)
Glad I'm able to shed some light.
There are at least three distinct and separate hazards.
One is the simple reverse polarity battery connected directly to an
alternator. No switches or contactors involved, which will likely damage the
alternator.
Two is the ability to close the grnd power contactor (via the aux alt
switch) with a reversed ground power battery connected, thus creating a
short between the two batteries, in spite of the fact that you have reverse
power protection preventing closing this same contactor using the ground
power switch. One switch thus defeats the protection you have provided for
the other.
Three is the possibility of connecting a 24 volt ground power battery to
your on board battery, (with unpleasant consequences) through the mechanism
described in scenario two above, thus defeating the OV protection built into
the ground power switch circuit by energizing the contactor via the
unprotected aux alt switch. (Once again that second source defeating the
well considered protection provided for the other source)
You cannot take the functional reverse voltage/overvoltage protected
circuitry offered by Joe and randomly add devices parallel to portions of it
without totally changing how that circuit functions, or at least negating
some or all of its features.
Bob N may be correct in that one contactor may suffice, however by
introducing multiple switches which mutually defeat the features of each
other, you are creating scenarios which leave open the possibility of
operator induced failures. The circuitry should take into account that
multiple inappropriately positioned switches CANNOT be allowed to create a
hazardous situation.
As an aside to what you are trying to accomplish, no switching is required
for your ground power present/correct polarity light. If you connect the
light to the positive ground power connection as you've shown then simply
ground the other side through a diode without the switch, then when correct
polarity external power is present the lamp will be illuminated and you will
know it's safe to close the contactor. (It will be brighter if a higher than
normal voltage is present, but your OV protection will prevent closing the
contactor) If you switch on the aux alternator in flight this same light
will also now illuminate through virtue of now being connected to the
aircraft power buss indicating that aux alternator is energized. If you want
to get even more detailed you could add a second light (large red??)
parallel to the first connected to the ground power positive pin and
grounded through a diode but whose polarity is reversed with respect to the
one you've already shown. This would illuminate when reverse polarity is
present on the ground power jack. Green light = correct polarity ground
power present. Red light = reverse polarity ground power present. No lights
= no power present.
If you did this you would still need the diode as shown in the circuit
switching the contactor in order to provide the reverse polarity protection
which prevents you actually connecting the reversed battery.
If you were to eliminate separate ground power and aux alt switches and
instead use one three position switch with one position being ground power
connected, one being off, and the third being aux alt on, you would make
several of these issues go away. (All those caused by having two switches
serving the same purpose.) Further if you obtained the ground for this
switch from the fuse which you currently show providing ground for your grnd
power switch then your OV protection would function with the aux alt as well
as with the ground power. This would only leave the issue of a reverse
ground power battery connected directly to the alternator to be resolved.
That could be addressed by using a two pole contactor whose second set of
contacts would be in series with your 40A ANL and whose first contacts would
be as presently depicted.
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 12:30 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
>
>
> Bob McC,
>
>
> > Does that help??
>
>
> Immensely. And I'm extremely appreciative of your efforts to explain the
problem in
> detail to my electrically pedestrian mind. But I need to study my drawing
vis a vis
> your tutorial to fully understand the hazard that you've identified. At
some point, Bob
> N thought that the shared contactor would work and the diode location was
jockeyed
> around for reverse polarity/OV protection and I didn't fully understand
then what the
> issues were. I think I may have complicated the circuit since then, so I
need to retrace
> steps.
>
> I want to understand this, but adding a contactor may be the most
expedient way of
> getting down the runway.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315212#315212
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Bob,
> (Is it Jon or John??
It's actually John. I've had the email moniker for 20+ years from when ATT would
only allow 8 letters. It was for both me and my wife so we shortened my name
to 'jon' and Laurie's name to 'laury'. When email came into common use, my wife
got her own address and I stuck with this one.
Once again, you're flooding light on my little dilemma. I like your elegant 3 pos
switch (w/appropriate indicator lights) and 2pole contactor idea. Do you know
a source for a 2 pole 12vdc 200-300 amp contactor? I didn't pull anything up
from Google in a quick search.
The simplest solution is to have stand alone contactors. I can use all my existing
switches, wiring, (FW pass throughs are sealed up), and the contactor that's
mounted for the GPJ. I would just get a Bosch type 40/60 amp ice cube relay
w/neg spike suppression (Beuler makes several), for the stby alternator. I
will probably go this route as it is the simplest, smallest and most economical
solution.
Thank you again for trying to keep me from frying myself :) .
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315233#315233
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
John;
This manufacturer makes DPST contactors, with many different features and
options available. http://tinyurl.com/287xe2g Click on diagrams tab then
click on the JBD series. This is a DPST 200 Amp contactor available in
either continuous or extended duty and with an enclosed option. This is just
one example, there are many others used in the recreational vehicle
industry, by off-roaders for winch control, by the renewable energy industry
for battery control, as well as in golf carts and industrial lift trucks
etc.
However I can't fault your statement below.
Bob McC
>The simplest solution is to have stand alone contactors. I can use all my
existing
> switches, wiring, (FW pass throughs are sealed up), and the contactor
that's
> mounted for the GPJ. I would just get a Bosch type 40/60 amp ice cube
relay w/neg
> spike suppression (Beuler makes several), for the stby alternator. I will
probably go
> this route as it is the simplest, smallest and most economical solution.
>
> Thank you again for trying to keep me from frying myself :) .
>
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
Cessna uses a relay at the battery box to prevent reverse polarity form an
incorrectly wired ground source. If the polarity of the ground plug is
reverse the relay won't close so there is no chance of a reverse polarity
between the aircraft battery and the ground source. It's a nice simple
system which does however depend on the relay operating and not welding
itself closed. It would be simple to install a ground power indicator on
the panel so you won't try to take off trailing a ground power supply.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
Sent: October 9, 2010 9:14 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch
Bob,
> (Is it Jon or John??
It's actually John. I've had the email moniker for 20+ years from when ATT
would only allow 8 letters. It was for both me and my wife so we shortened
my name to 'jon' and Laurie's name to 'laury'. When email came into common
use, my wife got her own address and I stuck with this one.
Once again, you're flooding light on my little dilemma. I like your elegant
3 pos switch (w/appropriate indicator lights) and 2pole contactor idea. Do
you know a source for a 2 pole 12vdc 200-300 amp contactor? I didn't pull
anything up from Google in a quick search.
The simplest solution is to have stand alone contactors. I can use all my
existing switches, wiring, (FW pass throughs are sealed up), and the
contactor that's mounted for the GPJ. I would just get a Bosch type 40/60
amp ice cube relay w/neg spike suppression (Beuler makes several), for the
stby alternator. I will probably go this route as it is the simplest,
smallest and most economical solution.
Thank you again for trying to keep me from frying myself :) .
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315233#315233
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
I agree with Bob McCallum about the danger of reverse polarity with the aux alternator connected in parallel with the ground power. The two circuits can be isolated with an inexpensive relay like this: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=255-1830-ND or available at auto parts stores.
Bob N will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that Z-8 is a work in progress
and has not been finalized. Is the 9024 module available yet?
Rather than design your own circuit based on Z-8, I suggest that you use one of
Bob N's proven circuits like Z-12 or Z-13/8. Those have an endurance bus, which
in my opinion, offer more options and thus safety in case something goes
wrong with the electrical system.
Having a ground power receptacle might make it convenient to get your engine
started in case you run the battery down by leaving the master switch on. But
then you will be tempted to take off with an uncharged battery. And there is
the danger of damage to your expensive electronics from reversed polarity or
high voltage caused by someone with inexperience or absent mindedness. Adding
more weight and complexity will increase the odds of something going wrong.
If you are determined to design your own circuit, see the modifications that I
made to simplify it and to remove the parallel circuit around the OV circuit
breaker.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9Rmupq9lpCs/TLItnxSlz0I/AAAAAAAAAFU/_adRmhLnQag/s800/z8_188-a.jpg
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315277#315277
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Hi Joe,
Yes, I came to same conclusion about the advantage of separate contactors, after
Bob McC pointed out the shortcomings :) of my drawn circuitry of using a single
contactor for double duty.
The genesis of this idea was that in an electrically dependent airplane (EDA),
one should have a GP jack, rather than having to pull the cowling to get to a
battery with jumpers, and the GP contactor is dead weight for most of it's life.
Why not make it pull it's weight by having it be the aux alternator contact
as well?
Not as easy as it sounds. And I just got latched on to the idea about saving the
weight of a 4th contactor.
For all the weight of the separate ice cube relay, like you showed, I could just
leave my pocket change on the hangar bench before flying.
I still would like to see the modified schematic in your post, but it's pretty
low resolution as a .jpg file, and gets really fuzzy when I blow it up. Could
you post a .pdf of it?
Yes, Z-8 is a work in progress and the 9024 is not available yet. But Bob N was
making rumblings that it will be soon. If it's not by the time that I want to
fly, I will use a crowbar OV and LVW system on both Alts.
And I did start out using Z-13/8, and then Z-12 but BoB N objected to using the
E bus for the loads (20a +) of an EDA and Z-12 puts both alternators on the same
bus, eliminating redundancy if the problem is with the bus and it needs to
be shut down. It was then that Bob decided that Z-13/20 needed to be revisited
for EDA's and came up with Z-8. And I think that by itself, Z-8 is simple and
to the point.
Now that I've been brought back to reality with your's and BoB McC's sobering examination
and weight/cost/benefit analysis, I am happy with Z-8 and an additional
few ounces of contactor for Alt 2.
Thanks for all your help,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315353#315353
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
http://eepa2a.bay.livefilestore.com/y1plAbE8KEJcAHS_99-BEHNUEuTebEghFVpbGTGXcDSdcGIgz3wNjVeCrStKgWRL1tO4_KOaV8-Js_dlVyMBgBn_admIrw7c2-d/z8_188-a.pdf?download&psid=1
John,
Above is a link to a pdf. I know that it is not exactly what you want. But the
main thing that I wanted to do was to eliminate the parallel circuit around
the OV circuit breaker which would prevent it from tripping. I am not saying
to use this circuit. Just look at how the ground power contactor is wired and
make sure that you do not connect another wire from the bottom of the coil through
a switch to ground, in effect bypassing the circuit breaker.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315378#315378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Lite |
>The genesis of this idea was that in an electrically dependent
>airplane (EDA), one should have a GP jack, rather than having to
>pull the cowling to get to a battery with jumpers, and the GP
>contactor is dead weight for most of it's life. Why not make it pull
>it's weight by having it be the aux alternator contact as well?
Keep in mind that the "electrically dependent" airplane
can generally be operated on a few tens of amps . . . perhaps
even 20 or less. So a ground power connector suitable
for both charging a battery -OR- operating a cockpit full
of electro-whizzies doesn't need to be the same device that
you might use to crank an engine using the FBO ground power
cart.
In about 1000 hours of flying over a period of 20 years,
I've had only two occasions to seek ground power assist
for getting an engine started. Both times the weather was
0F or below and neither airplane had an RG battery or
a modern high performance starter.
So allow me to suggest that since all readers of the
AeroElectric-List know how to craft a cranking system that
will get them going 99.99% of the time without a ground-
assist, a boss-hogg ground power connector and contactor
offers marginal to negative return on investment.
You can build your own ground power cable from say 6AWG
wire and use a trailer connector to mate it to the airplane.
Emacs!
Mount the connector close to the battery to minimize
length of always hot wire. Connect three pins to battery
contactor input using 12AWG wire. Three other pins to
battery(-) ground. If it makes you feel better, put
a mini-ANL 60 in series with the (+) wire right
at the battery contactor.
Now, since this is a ground power connection under YOUR
control, you can be sure that polarity issues are dealt
with for every instance. You can hood this cable set
to an automobile with the engine running and wait
10 minutes to recharge a dead battery before you attempt
engine cranking. You can use a similar cable assembly
permanently wired for proper polarity to your switch-mode
ground power supply to light up the panel on the ground.
Emacs!
Lighter, simpler, and likely to meet 99.99% of all your
ground power needs. Actually, stay home in front of the
fireplace when the weather goes to 0F and this rig
will cover 100% of your ground power needs.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Ground Power test |
Perhaps I'm being too simple, but I run an LED from the base of the
GPU fitting such that if it shows about 12-14Vdc in correct sequence, the
LED lights and I know I can power the GPU contactor to the ship. Won't that
do?
Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z8 Ground Power test switch |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Joe,
Thanks for the PDF. I understand about not building parallel circuits bypassing
the OVP now. And I decided to use a separate contactor for the #2 Alternator
aftter all, so I feel a little like the guy who yells "FIRE!" in the theater.
[Embarassed]
Best,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315393#315393
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power test |
At 07:52 PM 10/11/2010, you wrote:
> Perhaps I'm being too simple, but I run an LED from the
> base of the GPU fitting such that if it shows about 12-14Vdc in
> correct sequence, the LED lights and I know I can power the GPU
> contactor to the ship. Won't that do?
Sure . . . as long as you have control of the power
being fed to the rest of the airplane. The system I
proposed a few minutes ago applies power to the ship's
battery as soon as you hook up the external power source . . .
which puts battery-bus powered things at-risk before
the battery master is turned on . . . and everything
else after the master is on. There is a fist
full of ways to connect, pre-test, control and protect
for the various ground power faults.
Reality of the ground power situation is that it's
seldom needed and then mostly under conditions
controlled by the owner/operator.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Lite |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
This setup is probably much more appropriate for my purposes, but I thought the
aircraft-practices gods would smite me for suggesting such heresy. And then there
was the gospel of St. Nuckolls, preaching Ground Power Jacks in Z-31(2?).
So I nuckolled under and installed the Piper version and am now capable of sucking
the lights out of a nuclear power plant without breaking a sweat.
And I'm glad of it.
I like knowing that I can cart-start my engine without pulling the top cowling
and having a line boy dragging heavy cables over my paint job and then having
to disconnect them near a spinning prop, even though I don't expect to have to
do it often. And I bet system installed weight differs by about a pound. A small
price to pay for start capability. As you pointed out at one time, the mission
of most of our airplanes is to have fun boring holes in the sky and occasionally
going somewhere. An extra pound or two of convenience doesn't materially
affect accomplishing that misson and can greatly enhance it in certain circumstances.
Like when my battery is drained by my stupidity and an FBO or mechanic
can plug in a standard connector and get me on my way. And when that happens
I can already feel the satisfaction of having installed the start-capable GPJ.
Maybe I'll have to "forget" to turn off the master a few times to get over flying
around with an extra pound of GPJ hardware. :D
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315436#315436
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Hunt" <petehunt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Lite |
Bob, your message embedded attachments all showed up as "Emacs!" on my
computer. Thought that problem got solved a while back.
Pete H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Lite |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
> your message embedded attachments all showed up as Emacs! on my computer.
Emacs! always shows up in the daily digest received in my email. But when I go to the website, http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=3, the pictures appear.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315542#315542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Guys=2C
I have a Ray Allen Company trim tab servo and I would like some help.
The servo has three wires that go to a one-piece tiny LED position indica
tor
(which they call their RP3 INDICATOR). I called the factory and the guy s
aid
these 3 wires are from a 5K ohm potentiometer inside the servo. By way of
a
pot=2C the RP3 INDICATOR shows the linear position of the trim tab.
(the orange wire and the blue wire are from each end of the pot. The gre
en
wire is the wiper)
Here's my problem=3B my eyesight isn't very good up close=2C where is wh
ere I need
to mount that RP3 indicator (I have an overhead panel and the indicator wou
ld be
about 12" away from my eyes. (Too close!) Plus=2C I'd rather not be limit
ed to a
1/2" x 3/4" LED display. I would prefer to have separate LEDs=2C maybe aro
und
8-10 of them=2C placed in a better view on my instrument console in front o
f me.
Is anyone familiar with any circuitry that could light up a row of LEDs (
one at a time)
that is resistance driven. According to the tech support guy=2C the green
wire is
the "slider" of the pot. I assume only one LED would light up=2C at any gi
ven resistance=2C
etc=2C etc.
If a guy had 10 LEDs=2C then it could work like 0-500 ohms lights #1 LED.
500+ to 1000 ohms would light up #2 LED=2C 1000+ to 1500 ohms would light #
3=2C etc=2C etc.
I have included the Company installation guide=2C refer to "Figure 4" for
the indicator.
(see attachment for their RP3 indicator)
I guess if I could go with the Ray Allen indicator=2C which is better tha
n nothing=2C but I'd rather
use my own LEDs if anyone knows of a separate circuit.
Thanks a bunch!!
Mike Welch
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Hi Mike,
You've got a good system and I have the same and yes, the indicators are
hard to read in any daylight. I've become accustomed to looking at the
trim tab on my left wing to see what's going on. The elevator is more
easily felt than seen and it has such authority that you can adjust it by
feel much easier.
The stick sometimes needs to be bumped for the aileron to be responsive, but
it generally is for a changing fuel load.
I'd think not going further with indicators would be a best option.
Best regards
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Welch
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 1:50 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Guys,
I have a Ray Allen Company trim tab servo and I would like some help.
The servo has three wires that go to a one-piece tiny LED position
indicator
(which they call their RP3 INDICATOR). I called the factory and the guy
said
these 3 wires are from a 5K ohm potentiometer inside the servo. By way of a
pot, the RP3 INDICATOR shows the linear position of the trim tab.
(the orange wire and the blue wire are from each end of the pot. The
green
wire is the wiper)
Here's my problem; my eyesight isn't very good up close, where is where I
need
to mount that RP3 indicator (I have an overhead panel and the indicator
would be
about 12" away from my eyes. (Too close!) Plus, I'd rather not be limited
to a
1/2" x 3/4" LED display. I would prefer to have separate LEDs, maybe around
8-10 of them, placed in a better view on my instrument console in front of
me.
Is anyone familiar with any circuitry that could light up a row of LEDs
(one at a time)
that is resistance driven. According to the tech support guy, the green
wire is
the "slider" of the pot. I assume only one LED would light up, at any given
resistance,
etc, etc.
If a guy had 10 LEDs, then it could work like 0-500 ohms lights #1 LED.
500+ to 1000 ohms would light up #2 LED, 1000+ to 1500 ohms would light #3,
etc, etc.
I have included the Company installation guide, refer to "Figure 4" for
the indicator.
(see attachment for their RP3 indicator)
I guess if I could go with the Ray Allen indicator, which is better than
nothing, but I'd rather
use my own LEDs if anyone knows of a separate circuit.
Thanks a bunch!!
Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Hi Larry=2C
Thanks for the reply. I suppose I could have been more specific. I have
the trim tab
on the elevator=2C not an aileron. Impossible to see the tab's position in
flight.
I would like some sort of lighted indication to show it's position=2C and
preferably something I
can focus on. Something the size of a quarter 12 " away from my eyes isn't
too good=2C neither is
the quarter sized LEDs on my instrument panel 36" away=2C although it's be
tter.
If I had my druthers=2C I'd have a vertical line of (10) 3mm LEDs=2C hal
f an inch apart. This I could
see REALLY well.
Mike
From: larry(at)macsmachine.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Date: Wed=2C 13 Oct 2010 14:58:42 -0500
Hi Mike=2C
You=92ve got a good system and I have the same and yes=2C the indicators ar
e hard to read in any daylight. I=92ve become accustomed to looking at the
trim tab on my left wing to see what=92s going on. The elevator is more ea
sily felt than seen and it has such authority that you can adjust it by fee
l much easier.
The stick sometimes needs to be bumped for the aileron to be responsive=2C
but it generally is for a changing fuel load.
I=92d think not going further with indicators would be a best option.
Best regards
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Welch
Sent: Wednesday=2C October 13=2C 2010 1:50 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Guys=2C
I have a Ray Allen Company trim tab servo and I would like some help.
The servo has three wires that go to a one-piece tiny LED position indica
tor
(which they call their RP3 INDICATOR). I called the factory and the guy s
aid
these 3 wires are from a 5K ohm potentiometer inside the servo. By way of
a
pot=2C the RP3 INDICATOR shows the linear position of the trim tab.
(the orange wire and the blue wire are from each end of the pot. The gre
en
wire is the wiper)
Here's my problem=3B my eyesight isn't very good up close=2C where is wh
ere I need
to mount that RP3 indicator (I have an overhead panel and the indicator wou
ld be
about 12" away from my eyes. (Too close!) Plus=2C I'd rather not be limit
ed to a
1/2" x 3/4" LED display. I would prefer to have separate LEDs=2C maybe aro
und
8-10 of them=2C placed in a better view on my instrument console in front o
f me.
Is anyone familiar with any circuitry that could light up a row of LEDs (
one at a time)
that is resistance driven. According to the tech support guy=2C the green
wire is
the "slider" of the pot. I assume only one LED would light up=2C at any gi
ven resistance=2C
etc=2C etc.
If a guy had 10 LEDs=2C then it could work like 0-500 ohms lights #1 LED.
500+ to 1000 ohms would light up #2 LED=2C 1000+ to 1500 ohms would light #
3=2C etc=2C etc.
I have included the Company installation guide=2C refer to "Figure 4" for
the indicator.
(see attachment for their RP3 indicator)
I guess if I could go with the Ray Allen indicator=2C which is better tha
n nothing=2C but I'd rather
use my own LEDs if anyone knows of a separate circuit.
Thanks a bunch!!
Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Etienne Phillips <etienne.phillips(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab indicator |
Hi Mike
It should be easy enough to dismantle the RA indicator, and replace the
display with individual LEDs. I'm not familiar with this particular
indicator, but from the picture, the display looks identical to one that
I'm using in my own design, which is simply 10 electrically discrete
LEDs in a single housing. De-soldering the 20 pins, yanking out the
display and running short wires to individual LEDs (remembering that
polarity on LEDs is important) shouldn't be out of any aircraft
builder's depth. Obviously though, I would expect a voided warrantee
from this sort of behaviour...
To design and build a replacement circuit is a non-trivial exercise
involving an IC and a circuit board at least - if you're committed to
using LEDs. However, it would be easy enough to replace the entire
contraption with a 12V voltmeter (similar to this 10V variety
http://tinyurl.com/2f3akj4 ). Connecting either side of the pot to GND
and 12V would result in the green slider connection varying from 0-12V
through the travel. A simple 12V needle gauge would be able to display
that comfortably, with no electronics. It is usually possible to replace
the markings on the gauge with your own meaningful ones.
Hope that helps or provides an alternative stimulus...
Thanks
Etienne
On 13 Oct 2010, at 8:49 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Guys,
>
> I have a Ray Allen Company trim tab servo and I would like some
help.
>
> The servo has three wires that go to a one-piece tiny LED position
indicator
> (which they call their RP3 INDICATOR). I called the factory and the
guy said
> these 3 wires are from a 5K ohm potentiometer inside the servo. By
way of a
> pot, the RP3 INDICATOR shows the linear position of the trim tab.
>
> (the orange wire and the blue wire are from each end of the pot.
The green
> wire is the wiper)
>
>
> Here's my problem; my eyesight isn't very good up close, where is
where I need
> to mount that RP3 indicator (I have an overhead panel and the
indicator would be
> about 12" away from my eyes. (Too close!) Plus, I'd rather not be
limited to a
> 1/2" x 3/4" LED display. I would prefer to have separate LEDs, maybe
around
> 8-10 of them, placed in a better view on my instrument console in
front of me.
>
> Is anyone familiar with any circuitry that could light up a row of
LEDs (one at a time)
> that is resistance driven. According to the tech support guy, the
green wire is
> the "slider" of the pot. I assume only one LED would light up, at any
given resistance,
> etc, etc.
> If a guy had 10 LEDs, then it could work like 0-500 ohms lights #1
LED.
> 500+ to 1000 ohms would light up #2 LED, 1000+ to 1500 ohms would
light #3, etc, etc.
>
> I have included the Company installation guide, refer to "Figure 4"
for the indicator.
> (see attachment for their RP3 indicator)
>
> I guess if I could go with the Ray Allen indicator, which is better
than nothing, but I'd rather
> use my own LEDs if anyone knows of a separate circuit.
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> Mike Welch
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Mike,
You can get bifocals (trifocals?) with the close lens on the top and on the
bottom and the distance vision in the middle. This might help with your
problem if you need to mount stuff on the ceiling of your cockpit.
Personally, I would not do that since I have close vision problems as well.
I wear progressive lenses which allow me to compensate for things at
different distances but still close. I just move my head around and can
bring things into focus anywhere in the cockpit.
When I am working in the plane and have to see close, but must look thru the
top of my glasses, I just use reading glasses so every thing close is in
focus. Works fine unless I try to walk across the hangar. :>)
Oh the trials and tribulations of getting old! Beats the hell out of the
alternative, though. :>)
Bill B
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Welch
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the reply. I suppose I could have been more specific. I have
the trim tab
on the elevator, not an aileron. Impossible to see the tab's position in
flight.
I would like some sort of lighted indication to show it's position, and
preferably something I
can focus on. Something the size of a quarter 12 " away from my eyes isn't
too good, neither is
the quarter sized LEDs on my instrument panel 36" away, although it's
better.
If I had my druthers, I'd have a vertical line of (10) 3mm LEDs, half an
inch apart. This I could
see REALLY well.
Mike
_____
From: larry(at)macsmachine.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:58:42 -0500
Hi Mike,
You've got a good system and I have the same and yes, the indicators are
hard to read in any daylight. I've become accustomed to looking at the
trim tab on my left wing to see what's going on. The elevator is more
easily felt than seen and it has such authority that you can adjust it by
feel much easier.
The stick sometimes needs to be bumped for the aileron to be responsive, but
it generally is for a changing fuel load.
I'd think not going further with indicators would be a best option.
Best regards
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com <http://www.macsmachine.com/>
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Welch
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 1:50 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
Guys,
I have a Ray Allen Company trim tab servo and I would like some help.
The servo has three wires that go to a one-piece tiny LED position
indicator
(which they call their RP3 INDICATOR). I called the factory and the guy
said
these 3 wires are from a 5K ohm potentiometer inside the servo. By way of a
pot, the RP3 INDICATOR shows the linear position of the trim tab.
(the orange wire and the blue wire are from each end of the pot. The
green
wire is the wiper)
Here's my problem; my eyesight isn't very good up close, where is where I
need
to mount that RP3 indicator (I have an overhead panel and the indicator
would be
about 12" away from my eyes. (Too close!) Plus, I'd rather not be limited
to a
1/2" x 3/4" LED display. I would prefer to have separate LEDs, maybe around
8-10 of them, placed in a better view on my instrument console in front of
me.
Is anyone familiar with any circuitry that could light up a row of LEDs
(one at a time)
that is resistance driven. According to the tech support guy, the green
wire is
the "slider" of the pot. I assume only one LED would light up, at any given
resistance,
etc, etc.
If a guy had 10 LEDs, then it could work like 0-500 ohms lights #1 LED.
500+ to 1000 ohms would light up #2 LED, 1000+ to 1500 ohms would light #3,
etc, etc.
I have included the Company installation guide, refer to "Figure 4" for
the indicator.
(see attachment for their RP3 indicator)
I guess if I could go with the Ray Allen indicator, which is better than
nothing, but I'd rather
use my own LEDs if anyone knows of a separate circuit.
Thanks a bunch!!
Mike Welch
-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
To Etienne and Bill=2C
The problem with tearing apart the factory indicator and trying to afix m
y own
LEDs (and it be successful) is it's a $100 gamble. I could more easily liv
e with it
in one piece=2C
Yeah=2C I know if someone has come up with a solid state design it would
be
an expensive proposition.
I thought about the meter idea. Still thinking about it. Probably not l
ikely to go that
route=2C tho.
How about this idea??
Has anyone seen or are aware of a "linear switch type of thing. My think
ing is
I could attach something to the trim tab pushrod=2C and have it make contac
t along a linear
set of contacts.
My eyes probably aren't as bad as I make it sound. I just need glasses f
or reading=2C a lot like
most other guys in their 50's and 60's. I'm not like I'm "Mr Magoo blind"
=2C or anything.
The truth is=2C if I had to=2C I could live with that little sucker on my
overhead panel. I'd rather
do that=2C than cut it up and try to make it into what I'm after.=2C and r
isk throwing away $100.
I could even live with it on my front panel=2C too.
I was just curious of anyone knew of an "already existing" design floatin
g around somewhere.
Thanks for your input. Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Mike - Do you have an EFIS? I know my GRT Horizon will display the trim
servo position using the 3 wires you mention. I suspect the other EFIS
players will do likewise.
By the way, I have two of the MAC led indicators that I will not be using
and you would be welcome to one. I don't know what they are worth but for
$5.00 I will mail one to you.
Like others have said, they are not very readable in sunlight. I have one
in my RV4 that is useless. But I also do not need to see the trim tab
position as I adjust by feel in flight and a certain "guesstimate" for
takeoff position.
Allen Fulmer
2458 Oakwoods Ln.
Alexander City, AL 35010
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Welch
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 5:52 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Trim tab indicator
To Etienne and Bill,
The problem with tearing apart the factory indicator and trying to afix my
own
LEDs (and it be successful) is it's a $100 gamble. I could more easily live
with it
in one piece,
Yeah, I know if someone has come up with a solid state design it would be
an expensive proposition.
I thought about the meter idea. Still thinking about it. Probably not
likely to go that
route, tho.
How about this idea??
Has anyone seen or are aware of a "linear switch type of thing. My
thinking is
I could attach something to the trim tab pushrod, and have it make contact
along a linear
set of contacts.
My eyes probably aren't as bad as I make it sound. I just need glasses
for reading, a lot like
most other guys in their 50's and 60's. I'm not like I'm "Mr Magoo blind",
or anything.
The truth is, if I had to, I could live with that little sucker on my
overhead panel. I'd rather
do that, than cut it up and try to make it into what I'm after., and risk
throwing away $100.
I could even live with it on my front panel, too.
I was just curious of anyone knew of an "already existing" design floating
around somewhere.
Thanks for your input. Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
Mike
If you decide to construct an indicator, it's certainly
possible to use various single-chip microcontrollers
to do this job. For a simpler solution, check out
National Semiconductor's LM3914 bar graph display driver:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM3914.pdf
It's fairly likely that this is the basis of the Allen
trim display.
Available from several distributors.
Mike Linse
Corvallis, OR
> I was just curious of anyone knew of an "already existing" design
> floating
> around somewhere.
>
> Thanks for your input. Mike Welch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Zimmer" <stickandrudder1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Nipon-Denso Alternator Modifications |
Hi Bob. I've read the article describing modifying a Nipon-Denso internally
regulated alternator to add over-voltage protection, leaving the internal
regulator intact. My guess is this is essentially the same thing that Plane
Power does with their alternators. You wrote a brief pre-amble to the
article wherein you said you would publish feedback received from others who
tried the mod. What if any reports have you received? While the technique
does not give 100% control to the pilot to have absolute control over the
alternator as you recommend in your book, can you describe a failure mode
that would not be handled by the described configuration? The mod, seems to
be pretty simple and an elegant solution to the over-voltage problem, but I
don't know what I don't know. I guess my question really boils down to what
unplanned for excitement/surprise/adrenaline rush (insert your own
adjective) could be avoided if I went with an externally regulated
alternator with overvoltage protection. Thanks very much for your help and
insight to us electrically challenged newbies.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab indicator |
At 08:29 PM 10/13/2010, you wrote:
>
>Mike
>
>If you decide to construct an indicator, it's certainly
>possible to use various single-chip microcontrollers
>to do this job. For a simpler solution, check out
>National Semiconductor's LM3914 bar graph display driver:
There's another option. We have a quantity of
Tripplet 120 minature meter movements. This
is the same core we use for the 9007 loadmeter.
These could be offered as trim indicators also
by fitting with scale plates not unlike those
shown here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Instruments/Trim/Trim_Indicators.pdf
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nipon-Denso Alternator Modifications |
At 08:50 PM 10/13/2010, you wrote:
>Hi Bob. I've read the article describing modifying a Nipon-Denso
>internally regulated alternator to add over-voltage protection,
>leaving the internal regulator intact. My guess is this is
>essentially the same thing that Plane Power does with their
>alternators. You wrote a brief pre-amble to the article wherein you
>said you would publish feedback received from others who tried the
>mod. What if any reports have you received? While the technique
>does not give 100% control to the pilot to have absolute control
>over the alternator as you recommend in your book, can you describe
>a failure mode that would not be handled by the described
>configuration? The mod, seems to be pretty simple and an elegant
>solution to the over-voltage problem, but I don't know what I don't
>know. I guess my question really boils down to what unplanned for
>excitement/surprise/adrenaline rush (insert your own adjective)
>could be avoided if I went with an externally regulated alternator
>with overvoltage protection. Thanks very much for your help and
>insight to us electrically challenged newbies.
If anyone has successfully assumed this task, they've
not made be aware of it. Actually, the Plane Power
configuration does offer any time, any conditions, on/off
control of the alternator. There's no reason why a DIY
effort could not be crafted to accomplish the same thing.
But I'm sorry to report that I'm unaware of anyone
doing this task for their project.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab indicator |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Allen Fulmer's idea of connecting the trim servo pot to an EFIS is the easiest.
If no EFIS, then the schematic on page 2 of the data sheet referenced by Mike Linse will work. http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM3914.pdf
For the 0V to 5V signal source, make a 5 volt regulator like this: http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/psu_5v.html
Connect aircraft power to the input of the 5 volt regulator.
Connect ground and the output of the 5 volt regulator to the trim servo pot orange
and blue wires.
Connect the green wire from the servo pot to pin 5 of the LM3914N.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315708#315708
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RG400 connectors on RG58 cable |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I mistakenly used RG400 connectors on an RG58 cable. Is this acceptable, or
do I need to replace the connectors? I don't know what the difference is
between the two connectors and don't want to guess whether it'll work.
Thanks...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RG400 connectors on RG58 cable |
At 10:31 AM 10/14/2010, you wrote:
>I mistakenly used RG400 connectors on an RG58 cable. Is this
>acceptable, or do I need to replace the connectors? I don't know
>what the difference is between the two connectors and don't want to
>guess whether it'll work.
As far as I know, they are interchangeable. I only
stock one connector that I've used on RG-58/141/142/400
for years.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
Can and how if so, low voltage cause strobe noise in your headset?
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315816#315816
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab indicator |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I've posted lots on this subject, and offer a TSCMR (True Servo Controller for
MAC-RAC), which allows you to use a linear or rotary potentiometer or stepped
resistor switch to control the trim box. Even if you don't want one, the details
should interest you:
periheliondesign.com/moreproductsfiles/ServoController%20macrac.pdf
I decided to re-engineer the TSCMR with many additional features but don't currently
sell it. It got complicated. Details on request.
Regarding position indicators, the advantage of using a pot, trim wheel or any
non-pushbutton means of control is knowing where the trim is set. The Ray Allen
trim indicator expects 1.28V MAX voltage. Minimum voltage is raised off zero
a tiny bit, but not enough to prevent transmitter, intercom, etc. noise from
getting into the display.
There are a zillion ways to build higher output LED bar graphs, any you'll probably
have to roll your own with brighter LEDs. The LM3914 is current limited.
Perhaps the easiest approach is drive optoisolators such as 10 of the TLP222G
which then drive whatever LED you want up to 85 mA or so.
Google "Bargraph kit" for many available roll your own kits.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315824#315824
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rac_trim_and_trim_indicator_schematics_159.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
At 08:26 AM 10/15/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Can and how if so, low voltage cause strobe noise in your headset?
Can you explain the background for this question?
Generally speaking, low voltage is not a proximate
cause for changes in noise levels. Under what conditions
of "low voltage" do you perceive a noise that is
not perceptible under conditions of "higher voltage?"
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
Background:
Headset noise observed with strobe on, Garmin SL40 and Flightcom 403 intercom,
Aeroflash Srobe (By Noise I mean Whine). Contributing factor was certainly strobe
wires too close to radio. I verified this by moving the strobes entirely
away from the radio wires Noise went away Closer together Noise. I then decided,
I wasnt happy with my first attempt at making a harness anyway, so instead
of rerouting the strobe wires, I would reroute the audio wires. I did that
, and the noise went away entirely. To the point that with my eyes closed I
couldnt tell whether or not the strobes were on, with my headset on. THEN I came
out the next day, no noise but as the voltage level decreased Say to 10V,
(nearly dead battery) the strobe noise reappeared, and appear to increase with
decrease in voltage.
So now I have what I would describe as an intermittent problem, that appears to
be varying with my voltage levels. The first thing I will do is obviously charge
the battery to where it should be, but even if it goes away with a charged
battery, Id like too know why such a thing would be occurring.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315836#315836
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab indicator |
> I've posted lots on this subject=2C and offer a TSCMR (True Servo Control
ler for MAC-RAC> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
Eric=2C
That is a very nice article and design you've got. Probably more than I
need at this point=2C tho.
From the contributions so far=2C I have an little bar graph indicator com
ing from Allen Fulmer=2C which I
will check out. Next=2C and what seems to hold the most promise=2C is that
circuit Joe Gore supplied using
the LM3914. I suspect that that will be the one I use. It appears to be e
asy enough (for me) to build=2C
and provides exactly what I was after in the first place...a line of 3mm LE
Ds=2C with one lit up to show the
tabs position.
I like the meter Bob offered=2C too=2C but the LED design is my preferred
goal.
Thanks to everyone for their generous input. This list is truly an asset
to the homebuilt enthusiast!!
Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
| From: | "edleg" <ed_legault(at)yahoo.com> |
Normally at 10vdc you don't have an intermittant noise problem.... you have a failed
electrical system. I believe the "normal" low voltage cutoff for a 12v battery
should be 10.5v and anything lower is leading to disaster (literally and
figuratively).
Why would you test your electrical system at 10vdc when that is not a normal operating
parameter... and who cares if there is noise at 10vdc?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315873#315873
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
I'm not intentionally testing it that low, it's just that I'm not flying and I'm
only running the engine every couple of weeks. I've spent hours upon hours
trying to find my strobe noise issue. In the mean time, I'm realizing that I
haven't charged the battery and all the while my strobes are draining battery.
Last night it just occured to me that my problem might just be related to that.
And, I dont care if there is strobe noise at 10V as long as that is the issue
and not a poor ground or something similar.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315874#315874
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Burris" <klburris(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim Tab Indicator |
Bob:
A couple of questions on your miniature meter movements;
How does one change the scale? Is it difficult to get the face plate off?
Would just a piece of paper with the scale you want printed on it be
sufficient for the scale or would you have to use a special paper? I presume
the meter is a 0 to full scale operation. Is there any easy way to make it
a center zero meter such that you could use it for a 30 0 30 ammeter? Also,
I was unable to find the product listing for the price of the miniature
meter on your webpage. How much is the meter?
Thanks in advance.
-- Keith
Bob Nuckolls wrote;
There's another option. We have a quantity of
Tripplet 120 miniature meter movements. This
is the same core we use for the 9007 loadmeter.
These could be offered as trim indicators also
by fitting with scale plates not unlike those
shown here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Instruments/Trim/Trim_Indicators.pdf
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Instruments/Trim/Trim_Indicators.pdf>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Catch diode location |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
In the attached, I don't understand the pathway for the inductive spike of the
Grnd Pwr contactor to dissipate. I thought that the diode symbol always pointed
to positive.
And where does the catch diode go/orient on the Stby Alt Contactor?
Thank you,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315902#315902
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_b__838.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Or use bidirectional Zeners like you should and don't worry about it.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315903#315903
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Catch diode location |
John;
In all cases the "spike catcher" diode goes across the coil just as it does
and is shown on the battery contactor and with that same orientation. The
drawing you've attached has no "spike catcher" on the ground power
contactor. If you wish that feature it would have to be added. The diodes
currently shown are for polarity protection to prevent energizing the
contactor should the connect ground power be reverse polarity, and to allow
the light to indicate polarity.
The direction of the diode symbol depends on what use you are trying to make
of the diode. Its orientation to prevent "reverse flow" may be different
than if its purpose is to provide an alternate path for induced voltages.
You can also use a bidirectional zener as Eric suggests for spike
suppression, but these won't work for directing current flow such as in the
reverse polarity protection circuit. Different purpose, different
characteristics, different functions, different connections. (Sometimes able
to be achieved by the same component however)
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 6:34 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Catch diode location
>
>
> In the attached, I don't understand the pathway for the inductive spike of
the Grnd
> Pwr contactor to dissipate. I thought that the diode symbol always pointed
to
> positive.
>
> And where does the catch diode go/orient on the Stby Alt Contactor?
>
> Thank you,
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315902#315902
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z8_w_sb_alt_gpj_conceptual_rev_b__838.pdf
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Eric and Bob McC,
My EFIS maker, Advanced Flight Systems, wants spike suppression on every relay.
OK, so I can just put a bi-directional zener across all the relay/contactor coils
in the plane and I'm good for spike catching? Including the Alt 2 relay?
I've also got a small 5vdc coil (40ma) driven by an optical switch (another relay).
Does it get a spike catcher too?
So how does one size a bi-di-zener for spike catching?
Thanks,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315917#315917
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
Mike -
If I remember your quandary correctly, it makes perfect sense. I think you
reported that you had a noise issue, and separating the strobe and audio
lines made it better. As you deplete the battery, the problem returns and
gets worse as the voltage declines.
Your strobes want (demand) a nominal amount of POWER (E*I) to operate. As
voltage sags, current must rise to meet the power requirement of the
appliance. Current flowing in a conductor generates an electromagnetic
field. The higher the current, the larger the EM field (there's a quadratic
or integral relationship there, but it's too rusty to remember).
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MHerder
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 2:08 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage?
I'm not intentionally testing it that low, it's just that I'm not flying and
I'm only running the engine every couple of weeks. I've spent hours upon
hours trying to find my strobe noise issue. In the mean time, I'm realizing
that I haven't charged the battery and all the while my strobes are draining
battery.
Last night it just occured to me that my problem might just be related to
that. And, I dont care if there is strobe noise at 10V as long as that is
the issue and not a poor ground or something similar.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
John;
Yes, or just use the 1N5400's you've already shown for your battery
contactor on everything. Either will work. The perceived disadvantage to the
plain diode is that it does slow the reaction time of the device slightly,
but this will be undetectable for all practical intents and purposes.
(Advantages, really cheap, available anywhere)
Check Eric's website for explanations of the zeners. (Which he happens to
sell under the name "snapjack". They are also available from the major
electronics suppliers as bi-directional zeners)
http://www.periheliondesign.com/suppressors.htm
Any coil carrying a current will generate some level of reverse voltage when
switched off. So technically, yes, your small 5vdc coil will exhibit the
effect. Is it of any significance? Most likely not, especially as many
optical switches have suppression built in. The greatest effects are from
relatively large currents in relatively large inductors. (Like the one amp
of holding current in the multi turn winding of the battery contactor)
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonlaury
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 9:01 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Catch diode location
>
>
> Eric and Bob McC,
> My EFIS maker, Advanced Flight Systems, wants spike suppression on every
relay.
> OK, so I can just put a bi-directional zener across all the
relay/contactor coils in the
> plane and I'm good for spike catching? Including the Alt 2 relay?
>
> I've also got a small 5vdc coil (40ma) driven by an optical switch
(another relay).
> Does it get a spike catcher too?
>
> So how does one size a bi-di-zener for spike catching?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315917#315917
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Modern relay and contactor manufacturers recommend using bidirectional Zeners for
coil suppression, NOT diodes.
Mechanical relays and contactors depend upon magnetism generated by an electric
current running through a wire coil. When the current stops, the magnetic field
collapses. But the relay does not know the difference between a wire coil moving
in a magnetic field (as in a generator) or a magnetic field moving in a
wire coil (as in a collapsing magnetic field). Thus a large voltage1000V to 1500V
typicallyis induced in the coil. This current goes the same direction the
original current didso it slows the contact openingallowing arcing, chatter, bouncing,
contact welding and even re-closure.
http://www.periheliondesign.com/suppressors/SnapJack.pdf
Or buy your own, I recommend P6KE18CA for general purposes. Another advantage is
you can't put them in the wrong direction. They are symmetrical.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315939#315939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
At 08:04 AM 10/16/2010, you wrote:
>
>Modern relay and contactor manufacturers recommend using
>bidirectional Zeners for coil suppression, NOT diodes.
. . . an assertion that appears to be based
upon a paper published by Tyco authors that
in-expertly speak to issues not relevant
to the manner in which we use diodes on
our relays and contactors. Furhter, they
made mis-interpreted the significance of
their own data.
This was examined at length some years
ago Eric and you offered no evidence
or analysis contrary to the explanations
I demonstrated and published. If you have
some personally developed rationale for
contradicting what I wrote, please bring
it forward.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
At 02:07 PM 10/15/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>I'm not intentionally testing it that low, it's just that I'm not
>flying and I'm only running the engine every couple of weeks. I've
>spent hours upon hours trying to find my strobe noise issue. In the
>mean time, I'm realizing that I haven't charged the battery and all
>the while my strobes are draining battery.
>
>Last night it just occured to me that my problem might just be
>related to that. And, I dont care if there is strobe noise at 10V
>as long as that is the issue and not a poor ground or something similar.
This thread brings up several thoughts from
the depths of past experiences . . .
The noise levels you may be hearing while parked
in the hangar just may be too small to be significant
with the engine running . . . or with the aircraft
in flight.
I recall being summoned to the King Air line many
moons ago to help with some blower motor noise that
was reported audible in the cockpit intercom system.
When I got there, I discovered that the volume controls
were all maxed out and yes, you could hear some motor
noise that went away when the blower breaker was
pulled. After repositioning the controls to levels
typical of normal flight conditions, I asked if
they thought the noise might be objectionable or
even perceptible over normal cockpit noises.
They checked a few more airplanes and then talked
to some pilots and decided that it was a non-problem.
This scenario has repeated many times. No system is
totally free of extraneous noises. The benchmark
for usefulness is quantified by Signal to Noise Ratio.
Make sure your observations are not being made under
extraordinary measurement conditions.
It's also possible that a power supply becomes extra-
noisy under low voltage conditions. Suggest you
invest in a nice 13.8v, switchmode power supply
to power up systems on the ground. There's a boat
load of nice supplies on Ebay right now.
http://tinyurl.com/2fgxrrz
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Tab Indicator |
At 03:21 PM 10/15/2010, you wrote:
Bob:
A couple of questions on your miniature meter movements;
How does one change the scale?
I lay out a new scale plate in AutoCAD.
For b/w plates, I print the new scale on
full-sheet Avery label material (sticky
back w/peel-off cover) and a laser printer.
For color I use matt photo paper and color
printer. New scales are attached to the back
side of the existing scale plate.
Is it difficult to get the face plate off?
I don't take off the old one, just put the
new one over the old one or on the back side
of the existing plate.
Would just a piece of paper with the scale you
want printed on it be sufficient for the scale or
would you have to use a special paper? I presume
the meter is a 0 to full scale operation. Is
there any easy way to make it a center zero
meter such that you could use it for a 30 0 30 ammeter?
It depends on the pointer's zero-springs.
SOMETIMES . . . the rear spring has enough
adjustment travel to allow moving the zero-
current pointer position to the center of
the movement's travel. I've not tried it
with these devices that I can recall.
Also, I was unable to find the product listing
for the price of the miniature meter on your webpage. How much is the meter?
The instruments I hypothesized in the posting
do not exist. I would have to do some 'real'
scale stickers and modify some new instruments.
I have a load-meter that is already in stock.
https://matronics.com/aeroelectric/Catalog/AEC/9007/9007.html
The instrument with a shunt is $70. To do a
one-of-a-kind would be a bit more.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
Eric and Bob McC,
Thank you both for spelling it all out for me. I like the bi-di- zener solution
because it's idiot proof and perfect for people like me that have just enough
electronic knowledge to be dangerous.
Eric, your schematics of all the different scenarios are priceless. With all the
other sorts of subjective decisions involved in building my plane, it's REALLY
a luxury to have an experienced person say "Here, do it this way".
Contributions, like yours, to this forum, really make it sing.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315953#315953
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
The application of relay coil suppression with DC relays
www.ciitechnologies.com/appnotes/app_pdfs/13c3311.pdf
Coil Suppression Can Reduce Relay Life
relays.tycoelectronics.com/appnotes/app_pdfs/13c3264.pdf
Coil Suppression
www.leachintl2.com/english/english2/vol6/properties/how7.htm
Coil Suppression Techniques:
www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/crydom/May2010_SolidStatements.pdf
You want more?
Using diodes for coil suppression is Soooooooooooo 1900's Bob. Come on board to
the next century.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315957#315957
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Catch diode location |
At 10:39 AM 10/16/2010, you wrote:
>
>
>Using diodes for coil suppression is Soooooooooooo 1900's Bob. Come
>on board to the next century.
Eric. Those papers were crafted for exploring
the tradeoffs for relays designed to operate
under rated loads for tens to hundreds of
thousands of cycles. And yes, SOME of the
studies show a benefit for not clamping the
recoil spike at near zero volts with a diode and
instead allowing it to rise to some level determined
by a zener.
THIS forum of discussion is not about crafting
electrical systems for military or space-grade
vehicles. On average, the GA light aircraft
flies 50 hours a year. OBAM aircraft as a class
are probably higher. So let us say after 20
years, the airplane MIGHT have 3000 hours on
it. How many THOUSANDS of operations might
any given relay or contactor see on such a
vehicle? Certainly not hundreds of thousands
nor even tens of thousands. How many of our
relays are loaded such that they switch rated
loads for every cycle?
Adding super-suppression to a relay might
produce a 10-20% improvement in laboratory
life tests running at rated loads . . . probably
NO improvement for lightly loaded or dry-circuit
switching.
The point is my friend that there is no value
to be secured for NOT buying coil suppression
devices at Radio Shack as opposed to the
"ideal" device ordered in from remote sources
for more money and time.
You have taken a few facts and morphed them
into a level of significance that is simply
not applicable to the customers you and I
serve for the airplanes they are building.
The next century? Hammers have been around for
thousands of years . . . but that does not mean that
the task of driving a nail is not well served
by keeping a few hammers in my toolbox.
The point of my writing for this audience is
to tailor a suggestion for adequate performance
at the least cost and time . . . i.e. the
elegant solution. The solutions may or may not
comport with findings produced in a laboratory
that will never study what we do on the OBAM
GA aircraft.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
I just ran across this item on Ebay:
http://tinyurl.com/2cyx7c7
With an input from your 14v bus, it can be set up
to provide the typical 18-20 volts needed by many
laptops.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Sounds like it may be useful for powering portable HF gear (the common 10
watt rice boxes) from Li-poly or Li-metal cells that don't readily supply
12.6-13.8v ganged as batteries. 85% efficiency is not stellar, but might
still be better efficiency than a dropping regulator on a 16v pack...
-Bill Boyd
On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> I just ran across this item on Ebay:
>
> * http://tinyurl.com/2cyx7c7*
>
> With an input from your 14v bus, it can be set up
> to provide the typical 18-20 volts needed by many
> laptops.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Dubner <jdubner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
Sounds like it might even /be/ HF gear :-)
That single-sided PCB with minimal filtering (judging only by the
pictures -- see http://tinyurl.com/2943gjk) probably radiates switching
transient energy through VHF and beyond.
Of course if used with a laptop PC as per Bob's original suggestion,
this point may be mute because the laptop has it's own issues. But I'd
be leery about using it around receiving equipment in an aircraft (or
elsewhere).
My $.02 -- YMMV.
--
Joe
Independence, OR
http://www.mail2600.com/position
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/webcam.cgi
Bill Boyd wrote:
> Sounds like it may be useful for powering portable HF gear (the common 10
> watt rice boxes) from Li-poly or Li-metal cells that don't readily supply
> 12.6-13.8v ganged as batteries. 85% efficiency is not stellar, but might
> still be better efficiency than a dropping regulator on a 16v pack...
>
> -Bill Boyd
>
> On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> I just ran across this item on Ebay:
>>
>> * http://tinyurl.com/2cyx7c7*
>>
>> With an input from your 14v bus, it can be set up
>> to provide the typical 18-20 volts needed by many
>> laptops.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Looks to be in a metal enclosure, though.
On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 10:49 PM, Joe Dubner wrote:
>
> Sounds like it might even /be/ HF gear :-)
>
> That single-sided PCB with minimal filtering (judging only by the pictures
> -- see http://tinyurl.com/2943gjk) probably radiates switching transient
> energy through VHF and beyond.
>
> Of course if used with a laptop PC as per Bob's original suggestion, this
> point may be mute because the laptop has it's own issues. But I'd be leery
> about using it around receiving equipment in an aircraft (or elsewhere).
>
> My $.02 -- YMMV.
>
> --
> Joe
> Independence, OR
> http://www.mail2600.com/position
> http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/webcam.cgi
>
>
> Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>> Sounds like it may be useful for powering portable HF gear (the common 10
>> watt rice boxes) from Li-poly or Li-metal cells that don't readily supply
>> 12.6-13.8v ganged as batteries. 85% efficiency is not stellar, but might
>> still be better efficiency than a dropping regulator on a 16v pack...
>>
>> -Bill Boyd
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just ran across this item on Ebay:
>>>
>>> * http://tinyurl.com/2cyx7c7*
>>>
>>> With an input from your 14v bus, it can be set up
>>> to provide the typical 18-20 volts needed by many
>>> laptops.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Thanks for that link Bob. Now what we need is a source for the DC plug to fit
into the laptop. Right now I use a 12vdc to 120vac inverter along with the laptop
power brick. The disadvantage of that is having to carry around two inefficient
boxes instead of one.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316026#316026
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Remember that anything using a hard drive depends on a little cushion of air between
the read-write head and the disk. Using a HD above 10,000 feet cabin pressure
is risky.
Apple, Maxtor and Seagate state 10,000 feet as the maximum operating altitude.
Don't forget those IPods.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316027#316027
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com> |
Fortunately many of the ipods have gone to flash memory I do believe. This is also
the case for some of the smaller laptops.
On Oct 17, 2010, at 9:17, "Eric M. Jones" wrote:
>
> Remember that anything using a hard drive depends on a little cushion of air
between the read-write head and the disk. Using a HD above 10,000 feet cabin pressure
is risky.
>
> Apple, Maxtor and Seagate state 10,000 feet as the maximum operating altitude.
Don't forget those IPods.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones(at)charter.net
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316027#316027
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
| From: | Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com> |
I use an Igo power adapter that replaces the oem notebook supply. It can work off
of regular ac, sae 12v jack, and even tha special plug on some of the airliners.
It also can power two other devices (cell phones etc) from the same one
input. The tips are interchangeable, so you can use the same supply for multiple
computer types, one at a time of course. I travel extensively and have used
the Igo in all sorts of interesting situations, and the whole package isn't much
larger than my OEM adapter was in the first place.
On Oct 17, 2010, at 9:12, "user9253" wrote:
>
> Thanks for that link Bob. Now what we need is a source for the DC plug to fit
into the laptop. Right now I use a 12vdc to 120vac inverter along with the
laptop power brick. The disadvantage of that is having to carry around two inefficient
boxes instead of one.
> Joe
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316026#316026
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGent1224(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
Try E-Bay there are some power supply's that have universal connection and
the price is right for scavenging whatever you need
Try this link to see one. I use this one with my laptop in the car
_http://cgi.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-Power-Supply-AC-DC-Adapter-ACER-HP-Laptop-/16
0350558034?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item2555a35752_
(http://cgi.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-Power-Supply-AC-DC-Adapter-ACER-HP-Laptop-/160350558034?pt=La
ptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item2555a35752)
Looks like you might have to copy&paste it
Dick
In a message dated 10/17/2010 8:18:01 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
fran4sew(at)banyanol.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253"
Thanks for that link Bob. Now what we need is a source for the DC plug to
fit into the laptop. Right now I use a 12vdc to 120vac inverter along
with the laptop power brick. The disadvantage of that is having to carry
around two inefficient boxes instead of one.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316026#316026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
At 10:22 PM 10/16/2010, you wrote:
>Looks to be in a metal enclosure, though.
>
>On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 10:49 PM, Joe Dubner
><jdubner(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
><jdubner(at)yahoo.com>
That single-sided PCB with minimal filtering (judging only by the
pictures -- see http://tinyurl.com/2943gjk) probably radiates
switching transient energy through VHF and beyond.
Hmmm . . . I thought I tiny-url'd the link to the
top address for the Ebay offering. Here's the
corrected link plus a couple others . . .
http://tinyurl.com/2wftqo9
http://tinyurl.com/2w22toe
http://tinyurl.com/33grzmg
Some of these are listed as fixed 24 volt output
but can certainly be 'jeeped' to lower their output
setpoint.
Of course if used with a laptop PC as per Bob's original suggestion,
this point may be mute because the laptop has it's own issues. But
I'd be leery about using it around receiving equipment in an aircraft
(or elsewhere).
Astute observations. It's a pretty straightforward
experiment to survey for potential interference
problems . . . also not a big job to add enclosure
and line filtering should they prove necessary.
My suggestions about using the laptop were driven
more by the idea of using the computer for data
acquisition as opposed to in-flight entertainment
or generation of work product. Of course, altitude
limits conducive to hard drive functionality would
have to be observed. I'll order one of these puppies
with the idea of a permanent installation in my
travel vehicle.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard M. Plevyak Jr." <hplevyak(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Need advice on grounding of wing surface mounted antenna |
(RAMI AV-10)
Guys,
I'm building a GlaStar and currently installing two RAMI AV-10 Comm
antennae on the tops of my wing. They will be mounted to the aluminum
skin surface with a backing plate.
Instructions call for a =93clean Metal Surface for good ground
connection=94. My wing skins are currently primer painted both outside
and inside.
Should I clean the prime paint off down to bare aluminum on the just the
inside where the back up plate attaches? Or should I clean both inside
and outside?
Here's the spec sheet on the AV-10.
http://www.rami.com/gaa/antenna-info.cfm?pid=6
Thanks for any advice,
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar, North Bend, Ohio
hplevyak(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on grounding of wing surface mounted |
antenna (RAMI AV-10)
At 11:45 AM 10/17/2010, you wrote:
>Guys,
>I'm building a GlaStar and currently installing two RAMI AV-10 Comm
>antennae on the tops of my wing. They will be mounted to the
>aluminum skin surface with a backing plate.
>
>Instructions call for a "clean Metal Surface for good ground
>connection". My wing skins are currently primer painted both outside
>and inside.
>
>Should I clean the prime paint off down to bare aluminum on the just
>the inside where the back up plate attaches? Or should I clean both
>inside and outside?
See http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Antenna/Comm_Antenna_Installation.gif
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Strobe Noise Low Voltage? |
First point... is only the front end (supply) voltage of a strobe is low
voltage. The leads ot the tubes and the tubes themselves are definitely
high voltage. Tos keep clicking out of your headphones start with a well
grounded strobe installation with shielded wires going from the strobe unit
to the tubes. Then you may want to have a look at the Audio installation in
your plane. My experience has been most problems in avionics stem somewhere
from poor grounding.
Checking grounding can be time consuming as you will first want to locate
all the grounds. Dont forget the ground on the case of some regulators.
Once you know where all the ground connections are you can start making sure
they are all shiny clean.
On other lists there has been a lot of discussion about grounding shields;
one end or two. All the installation manuals I've ever seen say ground
shield wires at the source end only. There is and exception to this and
that is when coax is used.
Then you will want to make sure the grounds on both ends are clean.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MHerder
Sent: October 15, 2010 10:57 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Strobe Noise Low Voltage?
Can and how if so, low voltage cause strobe noise in your headset?
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315816#315816
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | STROBE NOISE RESOLVED??? |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
So I've spent hours upon hours, maybe 15-20 hrs or so trying to find my strobe
noise. Looking back I just had too many variables, and not enough constants.
Please follow along and see if you can figure out what was or is going on.
Equipment: Garmin SL40 Radio, Flightcom Intercom, Pilot USA ANR Headset, Flight
Data Systems Audio Mixer, all headphone and mic jacks insulated and grounds
grounds at one point wires shielded and drained at one end only.
So here's how my story goes, please follow as there may be something to be learned
here
Condition: Mild strobe noise, but annoying whining sound.
Attempts to solve:
1) Tried jumper to closest to positive lead of battery power supply. NO SUCCESS
2) Tried shielded wire to strobe. NO SUCCESS
3) Identified that proximity of wires to audio sources was a contributing factor.
Verified by moving wires closer to and further away from each other. AHA!
I thought. I Decided to reassemble entire harness and reroute all audio rather
than reroute strobe. This decision was made since I wasn't real happy with
my first attempt at the audio source anyway.
4) After rewiring harness, it was observed that I had no side tone... This was
all of a sudden, since side tone was working prior and I know my SL40 produces
side tone. I realized that I must have miswired something and I was correct.
I screwed up and mixed barrel, tip and ring. ALL OF A SUDDEN EVERYTHING WORKED
GREAT AND I WAS ON CLOUD 9. NO STROBE NOISE, SIDETONE WAS WORKING, TRANSMIT
AND RECEIVE CLEAR AS DAY. WHAT A FANTASTIC DAY IT WAS... JUST ONE MORE THING
TO DO.... HOOK UP MY AUDO INPUT FOR AN IPOD.
5) Hooked up audio input. STOBE NOISE AGAIN???? The input must be the input creating
an issue I thought. Disconnect audio input. STILL STROBE NOISE!!!!
What the hell is going on? How could this be?
6) Well maybe I didnt reroute everything far enough away? So I moved the strobe
power supply. STILL STROBE NOISE. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. NOW IM 15 HRS
INTO THIS MESS AND GETTING REALLY TIRED OF PLAYING WITH IT.
7) Success I think No strobe noise.
So what happened between step 6 and 7? I think the same thing that happened between
step 4 and 5. A change in the volume settings in the headset. When I hooked
up my Ipod, I wasnt getting sound loud so I messed with the left and right
independent volume control, I could have just turned up the volume in the
Ipod, but I didnt . I turned up the volume in each input of the headset. For
some reason I played with the volume again tonight. I found that can make the
noise go away by keeping each of the headset volumes below 60% for left and
right channels in the headset. I can still hear and adjust radio volume and
intercom volume, and all is well. Im very happy, if this is the final solution
to the problem. The only thing I havent done is tried with a regular non ANR
headset with mono input. The reason that bring this up is that I now believe
that I have some acceptable level of noise that will probably never go away,
and is probably very very minute in comparison to issues that others are having,
but my hypothesis is that the noise is so minute that if not amplified by
my headset, would never have been detected.
Any thoughts on the matter are welcome and encouraged. Im glad to share the story
just so others know of another cause of their perceived problem . Thanks
for sticking with me and enduring this long story.
MY TECHNICAL ADVISOR TOLD ME TO PUT THE DAMN THING BACK TOGETHER AND GO FLY! I
think he's right.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316107#316107
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: STROBE NOISE RESOLVED??? |
| From: | "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com> |
One thing further to add Bob. Thank you so much for your help in solving this
dilemma.
Let me clarify, that I'm not trying to find the holy grail of a totally noise free
airplane, but what I thought was an issue might not be one all together.
I just wanted to know and understand what was going on. I think that type of
tenacity is what has lead me to the very near completion of the airplane (wheras
most homebuilts don't get finished up), but this tenacity has also been a
stop block to progress in certain instances.
Your post regarding your issue on the king air line and the usefulnesss of Signal
to noise ratio as a benchmark was not read by me until after I posted a moment
ago, but I think you hit the nail on the head. While taxiing around yesterday...
Probably while you were posting I notice that even with the headhpones
past 60% volume turned up, I couldnt hear the noise with my Jabiru turning
past 1300 rpm anyway. Now with the volume at 50% or below I cant hear it at all.
Is my headphne actually amplifying the minimal noise? I think so.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316108#316108
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
There are a few netbooks out there that don't have hard drives... might be
an idea.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Sent: October 17, 2010 10:48 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane
Remember that anything using a hard drive depends on a little cushion of air
between the read-write head and the disk. Using a HD above 10,000 feet cabin
pressure is risky.
Apple, Maxtor and Seagate state 10,000 feet as the maximum operating
altitude. Don't forget those IPods.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316027#316027
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electroluminescent wire |
| From: | James Kilford <james(at)etravel.org> |
Gents,
I've been considering my options for instrument lighting, and ended up
buying some electroluminescent wire. I thought I might run two
lengths of this stuff -- one tucked under the coaming, to light the
panel, and another above the switch panel to light the switch legends.
I saw that this stuff is driven by some kind of oscillator, and I
wonder if this is likely to cause radio interference and noise.
Does anyone have any information or experience?
Many thanks in anticipation,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroluminescent wire |
Hi James,
I used electroluminescent tape about 1" wide above the instrument panel
in my RV-6A. It was powered by an oscillator (I don't remember the
frequency). It fully illuminated the panel and there was no evidence of
interference on the radio.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
On 10/18/2010 6:45 AM, James Kilford wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Kilford
>
> Gents,
>
> I've been considering my options for instrument lighting, and ended up
> buying some electroluminescent wire. I thought I might run two
> lengths of this stuff -- one tucked under the coaming, to light the
> panel, and another above the switch panel to light the switch legends.
>
> I saw that this stuff is driven by some kind of oscillator, and I
> wonder if this is likely to cause radio interference and noise.
>
> Does anyone have any information or experience?
>
> Many thanks in anticipation,
>
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Wickert" <jimw_btg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
Correct Noel,
There are several that are available with SSD eliminate the problem of the
HD at altitude, and from bouncing but we don't do that do we!!!!
Jim Wickert
Tel 920-467-0219
Cell 920-912-1014
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel
Loveys
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 10:43 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane
There are a few netbooks out there that don't have hard drives... might be
an idea.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Sent: October 17, 2010 10:48 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane
Remember that anything using a hard drive depends on a little cushion of air
between the read-write head and the disk. Using a HD above 10,000 feet cabin
pressure is risky.
Apple, Maxtor and Seagate state 10,000 feet as the maximum operating
altitude. Don't forget those IPods.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316027#316027
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rolling my own WigWag Circuit (with timer)...need help. |
| From: | Andrew Zachar <andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com> |
Warning: The following is LONG and may be borderline too clever and
complicated for an OBAM airplane, but I'm having fun with the experiment fo
r
now...
(Also, you can read the following with embedded pictures/video at
http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/11/rolling-my-own-wig-wag-circuit/ and
then http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/17/wig-wag-fail/)
Let's get started.
Over the last couple months, I=92ve been eyeing various landing and taxi li
ght
setups, trying to figure out what I want to do for my airplane. I=92m not
super keen on the leading edge landing/taxi light setup right now, so I wan
t
to focus on putting all the lights in the wingtips. There is a Van=92s wing
tip
landing light kit that puts two MR16 sized bulbs in each wingtip.
Supposedly, you can aim one set forward for landing (also recognition)
lights, and aim the other set down for taxi. I=92ve read on the forums that
people haven=92t been too thrilled with this setup using the standard 35W a
nd
50W halogens that van=92s provides (Is that what they provide?). Something
about not getting enough light on the centerline of the aircraft, where you
need it for landing. I have also read, however, that with the MR16 HID
upgrades from somewhere like www.planelights.com or duckworksav.com, there
is plenty of light to go around.
But then we come to wig-wag. I think wig-wag (pulsing lights) for the
landing lights is a requirement safety wise (for me), so I am planning on
incorporating a wig-wag circuit into my landing lights.
I could just wire them in parallel, so you turn the landing lights on, and
either wig-wag them or not depending on wig-wag switch position, but becaus
e
these are going to be HID bulbs, one needs to warm the bulbs up before
pulsing. (I=92ve read that 25 seconds was used previously on HID flashing
circuits, so I=92m going to use 30 seconds for now, but I may bump that up
based on a crude bulb temperature test I may set up in the future.)
Procedurally, I could just wait 30 seconds after turning the landing lights
on before turning on the other switch, pulsing them, but who can remember
that 100% of the time? 30 seconds is just about the time it takes between
turning the lights on for takeoff and liftoff. This is not the right time t
o
be reaching down for another switch. I=92d rather flip both switches ON, an
d
have them automatically warm up before starting to pulse.
Enter xevision. They have a multiple-hundred-dollar HID flasher box that
will work great for this application. Except I=92m an engineer, and I love
a
good problem to solve, and I don=92t have hundreds of dollars laying around
for their unit. (And, I want to mess around a little with timer circuits,
etc.)
Enter Microsoft Visio and B&C. Using Bob N=92s Low Cost Wing Wag Alternativ
e
document (page 2.0) as a starting point, I drew up a concept for a landing
and wig-wag circuit with a delay timer (haven=92t figured out the timer
circuit yet, but it=92s just going to trigger a relay, so I=92m going to
simulate it with a switch for now).
Keep in mind, I could combine the functions into a 2-10 switch (similar to
page 3.0 of the wig-wag document), but then I couldn=92t use the
switch-breaker I=92m planning to use in place of the regular switch I have
depicted. Maybe this circuit is a good candidate for an inline fuse=85I=92l
l
sort that out later.
Anyway, here=92s the circuit for now (since I am a wiring novice, I=92ll ha
ve to
figure out how to connect 5 wires to one switch terminal later=85I know you
can=92t just bolt them all on there.)
Oh, and I=92ve shown the HID lights here as just normal lights. You get the
idea, though.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-off1.jpg
<http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-off1.jpg>
Okay, for the first iteration (see next picture), I=92ve turned on the LDG
LT
switch. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
following places: 1) to the timer circuit, starting the 30s timer (mechanis
m
TBD), 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NC
terminal to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that switch), and 3) to both
of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
Summary, the 30s timer as started, and both landing lights are on steady.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonlessthan30.jp
g
At this point, if we turn the WIGWAG switch ON (see next picture), the
landing lights are still getting power, but through the NC terminals of the
relay, so they are both still on steady. This is good, because we don=92t w
ant
them to pulse before the 30s of warm up time as elapsed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwonlessthan3
0.jpg
Okay, let=92s turn the WIGWAG switch back off, and let the 30 seconds elaps
e.
Now. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
following places: 1) to the timer circuit, which has now closed the relay,
2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NO termina
l
to the SSF flasher, and then to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that
switch), and 3) to both of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
Summary, the 30s timer has elapsed, but since the WIGWAG switch is off, we
are still getting steady lights.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgongreaterthan30
.jpg
Finally, we move the WIGWAG switch to ON, and the lights are being powered
through the LDG LT switch, the trigger relay, which closes the SPDT relay,
the SSF flasher, and the WIGWAG switches ON terminals.
Summary. Pulsing lights.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwongreaterth
an30.jpg
Basically, the timer won=92t let power go through the flasher until 30s aft
er
the landing lights are turned on.
A couple problems, though.
FAIL.
Okay, so maybe FAIL is a little strong.
Last week sometime (can=92t remember when, it was a rough week at work), I
ordered some things from B&C <http://www.bandc.biz/> to make the wig-wag
circuit I=92ve been dreaming up.
Anyway, a small box with all my goodies appeared on Thursday, so of course
I
stayed up late trying to put my circuit together.
All I have as far as electrical tools is one of those $5 combination
crimper/stripper tools that really sucks. After an hour of wiring, my hands
were killing me, frustration levels were really high, and I made the
decision that I needed both an automatic stripper (I hope that doesn=92t se
t
off the google search alarms) and a professional crimper. More on those
later.
Anyway, that night, I ended up with this:
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-008-large.jpg
+14V will come in to the left, and the lights will be connected to the
center terminals of the 2-3 switch in the picture. the fast-on connector at
the top of the picture will eventually be connected to a timer circuit that
will close the relay (top left) after 30 seconds.
Since I had never used a Stripmaster before tonight, I snagged this. (I'm
sure everyone else on this list is familiar with them.
http://videos.videopress.com/21Myv62x/20101017-014_dvd.mp4
Pretty slick, huh? This is instead of about 60 seconds worth of stupid
tool-knife-stupid tool-hurt hand-knife again-stupid tool just to strip one
end of one wire.
Okay, let=92s hook up my circuit.
This is LDG ON and WIGWAG OFF.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-010-large.jpg
But. This is where bad stuff starting happening.
I threw the WIGWAG switch to ON and then used the simulated timer circuit t
o
close the relay. Nothing happened (lights stayed on).
After a little more investigation, I figured out that both the normally ope
n
(NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts were getting +14V all the time (The
NO contact was at +14V because it was being backfed through the flasher. I
don't know if this is a problem or not yet. Maybe this is where I need some
diodes.
During the investigation, I wanted to make sure that everything works as
advertised.
I wired up the flasher from B&C. I not sure it=92s working correctly.
http://videos.videopress.com/uTQKDDyA/20101017-015_dvd.mp4
It=92s making a weird buzzing noise, and the first light comes on and start
s
to dim just as then the second one starts to come on, but it doesn=92t real
ly
finish a singe cycle.
Finally, I bypassed the B&C flasher and checked the relay operation back in
the original circuit.
First, I turn on the lights. Then, I turn on the wigwag, and the lights sta
y
constant (simulating timer less than 30 seconds). Third, I=92ll close the
relay (simulating 30 seconds has elapsed) so current flows through the
flasher (although since it=92s not hooked up, the lights should turn off.)
It
works as I expected it to.
http://videos.videopress.com/Dufybbyc/20101017-019_dvd.mp4
Next steps:
1) Figure out if the B&C wig-wag module is working correctly and I am makin
g
some sort of error.
2) Once I get that working, hook it back up.
3) Order a 2-10 switch to do the same thing on one switch per my second
drawing:
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/2-10wigwagproposal-off.jpg
Any comments? Ideas?
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | What's all this spike-catcher stuff anyhow? |
It was suggested last week that application of
plain-vanilla diodes to the coils of relays and
contactors was "so last century". I agree. The
effects of energy stored on inductors has been
studied for over two centuries. Circuit designers
have both exploited the phenomenon as a benefit and
struggled with them as a deleterious liability for
about the same amount of time.
I wrote this piece with some notion of putting
a host of simple-ideas surrounding the inductive
energy storage and potential for spikes due to
rapid release into clearer perspective.
http://tinyurl.com/25wjo7w
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paul wilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laptop supply for your car/airplane |
Probably be a good idea to check the power consumption of the laptop.
Mine with a 17" screen draws 185 to 195 watts when used with an
inverter in my truck. More power is required for the dual hard drives
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rolling my own WigWag Circuit (with timer)...need |
help.
| From: | Andrew Zachar <andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com> |
Update:
I've already figured out I'll need some diodes on the "flasher" side
of the 2-3 switch. Both lights are getting current all the time
through the wire connected to NC on my relay.
Without doing any research on diodes, how do I decide which ones to
use? (Should I just buy the Full wave Diode rectifier as shown on page
3.0 of Bob's document?)
Thanks again.
-az
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:23 AM, Andrew Zachar
wrote:
> Warning: The following is LONG and may be borderline too clever and
> complicated for an OBAM airplane, but I'm having fun with the experiment for
> now...
> (Also, you can read the following with embedded pictures/video
> athttp://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/11/rolling-my-own-wig-wag-circuit/and
> thenhttp://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/17/wig-wag-fail/)
>
> Let's get started.
> Over the last couple months, Ive been eyeing various landing and taxi light
> setups, trying to figure out what I want to do for my airplane. Im not
> super keen on the leading edge landing/taxi light setup right now, so I want
> to focus on putting all the lights in the wingtips. There is a Vans wingtip
> landing light kit that puts two MR16 sized bulbs in each wingtip.
> Supposedly, you can aim one set forward for landing (also recognition)
> lights, and aim the other set down for taxi. Ive read on the forums that
> people havent been too thrilled with this setup using the standard 35W and
> 50W halogens that vans provides (Is that what they provide?). Something
> about not getting enough light on the centerline of the aircraft, where you
> need it for landing. I have also read, however, that with the MR16 HID
> upgrades from somewhere like www.planelights.com or duckworksav.com, there
> is plenty of light to go around.
>
> But then we come to wig-wag. I think wig-wag (pulsing lights) for the
> landing lights is a requirement safety wise (for me), so I am planning on
> incorporating a wig-wag circuit into my landing lights.
>
> I could just wire them in parallel, so you turn the landing lights on, and
> either wig-wag them or not depending on wig-wag switch position, but because
> these are going to be HID bulbs, one needs to warm the bulbs up before
> pulsing. (Ive read that 25 seconds was used previously on HID flashing
> circuits, so Im going to use 30 seconds for now, but I may bump that up
> based on a crude bulb temperature test I may set up in the future.)
>
> Procedurally, I could just wait 30 seconds after turning the landing lights
> on before turning on the other switch, pulsing them, but who can remember
> that 100% of the time? 30 seconds is just about the time it takes between
> turning the lights on for takeoff and liftoff. This is not the right time to
> be reaching down for another switch. Id rather flip both switches ON, and
> have them automatically warm up before starting to pulse.
>
> Enter xevision. They have a multiple-hundred-dollar HID flasher box that
> will work great for this application. Except Im an engineer, and I love a
> good problem to solve, and I dont have hundreds of dollars laying around
> for their unit. (And, I want to mess around a little with timer circuits,
> etc.)
>
> Enter Microsoft Visio and B&C. Using Bob Ns Low Cost Wing Wag Alternative
> document (page 2.0) as a starting point, I drew up a concept for a landing
> and wig-wag circuit with a delay timer (havent figured out the timer
> circuit yet, but its just going to trigger a relay, so Im going to
> simulate it with a switch for now).
>
> Keep in mind, I could combine the functions into a 2-10 switch (similar to
> page 3.0 of the wig-wag document), but then I couldnt use the
> switch-breaker Im planning to use in place of the regular switch I have
> depicted. Maybe this circuit is a good candidate for an inline fuseIll
> sort that out later.
>
> Anyway, heres the circuit for now (since I am a wiring novice, Ill have to
> figure out how to connect 5 wires to one switch terminal laterI know you
> cant just bolt them all on there.)
>
> Oh, and Ive shown the HID lights here as just normal lights. You get the
> idea, though.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-off1.jpg
>
> Okay, for the first iteration (see next picture), Ive turned on the LDG LT
> switch. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
> following places: 1) to the timer circuit, starting the 30s timer (mechanism
> TBD), 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NC
> terminal to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that switch), and 3) toboth
> of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
>
> Summary, the 30s timer as started, and both landing lights are on steady.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonlessthan30.jpg
>
> At this point, if we turn the WIGWAG switch ON(see next picture), the
> landing lights are still getting power, but through the NC terminals of the
> relay, so they are both still on steady. This is good, because we dont want
> them to pulse before the 30s of warm up time as elapsed.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwonlessthan30.jpg
>
> Okay, lets turn the WIGWAG switch back off, and let the 30 seconds elapse.
> Now. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
> following places: 1) to the timer circuit, which has now closed the relay,
> 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NO terminal
> to the SSF flasher, and then to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that
> switch), and 3) toboth of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
>
> Summary, the 30s timer has elapsed, but since the WIGWAG switch is off, we
> are still getting steady lights.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgongreaterthan30.jpg
>
> Finally, we move the WIGWAG switch to ON, and the lights are being powered
> through the LDG LT switch, the trigger relay, which closes the SPDT relay,
> the SSF flasher, and the WIGWAG switches ON terminals.
>
> Summary. Pulsing lights.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwongreaterthan30.jpg
>
> Basically, the timer wont let power go through the flasher until 30s after
> the landing lights are turned on.
>
> A couple problems, though.
>
> FAIL.
>
> Okay, so maybe FAIL is a little strong.
>
> Last week sometime (cant remember when, it was a rough week at work), I
> ordered some things fromB&Cto make the wig-wag circuit Ive been dreaming
> up.
>
> Anyway, a small box with all my goodies appeared on Thursday, so of course I
> stayed up late trying to put my circuit together.
>
> All I have as far as electrical tools is one of those $5 combination
> crimper/stripper tools that really sucks. After an hour of wiring, my hands
> were killing me, frustration levels were really high, and I made the
> decision that I needed both an automatic stripper (I hope that doesnt set
> off the google search alarms) and a professional crimper. More on those
> later.
>
> Anyway, that night, I ended up with this:
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-008-large.jpg
>
> +14V will come in to the left, and the lights will be connected to the
> center terminals of the 2-3 switch in the picture. the fast-on connector at
> the top of the picture will eventually be connected to a timer circuit that
> will close the relay (top left) after 30 seconds.
>
> Since I had never used a Stripmaster before tonight, I snagged this. (I'm
> sure everyone else on this list is familiar with them.
>
> http://videos.videopress.com/21Myv62x/20101017-014_dvd.mp4
>
> Pretty slick, huh? This is instead of about 60 seconds worth of stupid
> tool-knife-stupid tool-hurt hand-knife again-stupid tool just to strip one
> end of one wire.
>
> Okay, lets hook up my circuit.
>
> This is LDG ON and WIGWAG OFF.
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-010-large.jpg
>
> But. This is where bad stuff starting happening.
>
> I threw the WIGWAG switch to ON and then used the simulated timer circuit to
> close the relay. Nothing happened (lights stayed on).
>
> After a little more investigation, I figured out that both the normally open
> (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts were getting +14V all the time (The
> NO contact was at +14V because it was being backfed through the flasher. I
> don't know if this is a problem or not yet. Maybe this is where I need some
> diodes.
>
> During the investigation, I wanted to make sure that everything works as
> advertised.
>
> I wired up the flasher from B&C. I not sure its working correctly.
>
> http://videos.videopress.com/uTQKDDyA/20101017-015_dvd.mp4
>
> Its making a weird buzzing noise, and the first light comes on and starts
> to dim just as then the second one starts to come on, but it doesnt really
> finish a singe cycle.
>
> Finally, I bypassed the B&C flasher and checked the relay operation back in
> the original circuit.
>
> First, I turn on the lights. Then, I turn on the wigwag, and the lights stay
> constant (simulating timer less than 30 seconds). Third, Ill close the
> relay (simulating 30 seconds has elapsed) so current flows through the
> flasher (although since its not hooked up, the lights should turn off.) It
> works as I expected it to.
>
> http://videos.videopress.com/Dufybbyc/20101017-019_dvd.mp4
>
> Next steps:
>
> 1) Figure out if the B&C wig-wag module is working correctly and I am making
> some sort of error.
>
> 2) Once I get that working, hook it back up.
>
> 3) Order a 2-10 switch to do the same thing on one switch per my second
> drawing:
>
> http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/2-10wigwagproposal-off.jpg
>
> Any comments? Ideas?
>
> --
>
> Andrew Zachar
> andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com
>
>
--
Andrew Zachar
andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dim able strip LED lighting |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
A friend of mine has a hi-tech bow with fiberoptic cross-hair sights, lighted by
three stacked hearing aid batteries. He pays me in venison.
The LED needed replacing and I fixed it, but that one broke too. Next time I added
a tiny pcb to the LED. Then he complained that the LED was far too bright.
So I planned to add a resistor that would respond to pressure so when the cap was
screwed on, the LED would brighten or dim. It turns out that the black conductive
foam used to package ICs, works well as a pressure sensitive low value
resistor. I punched out a little disk of it and added it to the stack of batteries.
Result? It worked remarkably well.
I offer this technique to anyone who want to have a dimming control in a flashlight
with stacked batteries.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316178#316178
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electroluminescent wire |
| From: | James Kilford <james(at)etravel.org> |
Richard,
Thanks for that. I'll let you know how I get on!
James
On 18 October 2010 14:12, Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>
> Hi James,
> I used electroluminescent tape about 1" wide above the instrument panel in
> my RV-6A. It was powered by an oscillator (I don't remember the frequency).
> It fully illuminated the panel and there was no evidence of interference on
> the radio.
>
> Regards,
> Richard Dudley
>
>
> On 10/18/2010 6:45 AM, James Kilford wrote:
>>
>>
>> Gents,
>>
>> I've been considering my options for instrument lighting, and ended up
>> buying some electroluminescent wire. I thought I might run two
>> lengths of this stuff -- one tucked under the coaming, to light the
>> panel, and another above the switch panel to light the switch legends.
>>
>> I saw that this stuff is driven by some kind of oscillator, and I
>> wonder if this is likely to cause radio interference and noise.
>>
>> Does anyone have any information or experience?
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation,
>>
>> James
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rolling my own WigWag Circuit (with timer)...need help |
(WORKING LINKS)
| From: | Andrew Zachar <andrew.d.zachar(at)gmail.com> |
arning: The following is LONG and may be borderline too clever and
complicated for an OBAM airplane, but I'm having fun with the experiment fo
r
now...
(Also, you can read the following with embedded pictures/video at
http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/11/rolling-my-own-wig-wag-circuit/ and
then http://n999za.wordpress.com/2010/10/17/wig-wag-fail/)
Let's get started.
Over the last couple months, I=92ve been eyeing various landing and taxi li
ght
setups, trying to figure out what I want to do for my airplane. I=92m not
super keen on the leading edge landing/taxi light setup right now, so I wan
t
to focus on putting all the lights in the wingtips. There is a Van=92s wing
tip
landing light kit that puts two MR16 sized bulbs in each wingtip.
Supposedly, you can aim one set forward for landing (also recognition)
lights, and aim the other set down for taxi. I=92ve read on the forums that
people haven=92t been too thrilled with this setup using the standard 35W a
nd
50W halogens that van=92s provides (Is that what they provide?). Something
about not getting enough light on the centerline of the aircraft, where you
need it for landing. I have also read, however, that with the MR16 HID
upgrades from somewhere like www.planelights.com or duckworksav.com, there
is plenty of light to go around.
But then we come to wig-wag. I think wig-wag (pulsing lights) for the
landing lights is a requirement safety wise (for me), so I am planning on
incorporating a wig-wag circuit into my landing lights.
I could just wire them in parallel, so you turn the landing lights on, and
either wig-wag them or not depending on wig-wag switch position, but becaus
e
these are going to be HID bulbs, one needs to warm the bulbs up before
pulsing. (I=92ve read that 25 seconds was used previously on HID flashing
circuits, so I=92m going to use 30 seconds for now, but I may bump that up
based on a crude bulb temperature test I may set up in the future.)
Procedurally, I could just wait 30 seconds after turning the landing lights
on before turning on the other switch, pulsing them, but who can remember
that 100% of the time? 30 seconds is just about the time it takes between
turning the lights on for takeoff and liftoff. This is not the right time t
o
be reaching down for another switch. I=92d rather flip both switches ON, an
d
have them automatically warm up before starting to pulse.
Enter xevision. They have a multiple-hundred-dollar HID flasher box that
will work great for this application. Except I=92m an engineer, and I love
a
good problem to solve, and I don=92t have hundreds of dollars laying around
for their unit. (And, I want to mess around a little with timer circuits,
etc.)
Enter Microsoft Visio and B&C. Using Bob N=92s Low Cost Wing Wag Alternativ
e
document (page 2.0) as a starting point, I drew up a concept for a landing
and wig-wag circuit with a delay timer (haven=92t figured out the timer
circuit yet, but it=92s just going to trigger a relay, so I=92m going to
simulate it with a switch for now).
Keep in mind, I could combine the functions into a 2-10 switch (similar to
page 3.0 of the wig-wag document), but then I couldn=92t use the
switch-breaker I=92m planning to use in place of the regular switch I have
depicted. Maybe this circuit is a good candidate for an inline fuse=85I=92l
l
sort that out later.
Anyway, here=92s the circuit for now (since I am a wiring novice, I=92ll ha
ve to
figure out how to connect 5 wires to one switch terminal later=85I know you
can=92t just bolt them all on there.)
Oh, and I=92ve shown the HID lights here as just normal lights. You get the
idea, though.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-off3.jpg
<http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-off1.jpg>
Okay, for the first iteration (see next picture), I=92ve turned on the LDG
LT
switch. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
following places: 1) to the timer circuit, starting the 30s timer (mechanis
m
TBD), 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NC
terminal to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that switch), and 3) to both
of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
Summary, the 30s timer as started, and both landing lights are on steady.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonlessthan30.jp
g
At this point, if we turn the WIGWAG switch ON (see next picture), the
landing lights are still getting power, but through the NC terminals of the
relay, so they are both still on steady. This is good, because we don=92t w
ant
them to pulse before the 30s of warm up time as elapsed.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwonlessthan3
01.jpg
Okay, let=92s turn the WIGWAG switch back off, and let the 30 seconds elaps
e.
Now. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the
following places: 1) to the timer circuit, which has now closed the relay,
2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NO termina
l
to the SSF flasher, and then to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that
switch), and 3) to both of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.
Summary, the 30s timer has elapsed, but since the WIGWAG switch is off, we
are still getting steady lights.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgongreaterthan30
1.jpg
Finally, we move the WIGWAG switch to ON, and the lights are being powered
through the LDG LT switch, the trigger relay, which closes the SPDT relay,
the SSF flasher, and the WIGWAG switches ON terminals.
Summary. Pulsing lights.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/wigwagproposal-ldgonwwongreaterth
an301.jpg
Basically, the timer won=92t let power go through the flasher until 30s aft
er
the landing lights are turned on.
A couple problems, though.
FAIL.
Okay, so maybe FAIL is a little strong.
Last week sometime (can=92t remember when, it was a rough week at work), I
ordered some things from B&C <http://www.bandc.biz/> to make the wig-wag
circuit I=92ve been dreaming up.
Anyway, a small box with all my goodies appeared on Thursday, so of course
I
stayed up late trying to put my circuit together.
All I have as far as electrical tools is one of those $5 combination
crimper/stripper tools that really sucks. After an hour of wiring, my hands
were killing me, frustration levels were really high, and I made the
decision that I needed both an automatic stripper (I hope that doesn=92t se
t
off the google search alarms) and a professional crimper. More on those
later.
Anyway, that night, I ended up with this:
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-008-large.jpg
+14V will come in to the left, and the lights will be connected to the
center terminals of the 2-3 switch in the picture. the fast-on connector at
the top of the picture will eventually be connected to a timer circuit that
will close the relay (top left) after 30 seconds.
Since I had never used a Stripmaster before tonight, I snagged this. (I'm
sure everyone else on this list is familiar with them.
http://videos.videopress.com/21Myv62x/20101017-014_dvd.mp4
Pretty slick, huh? This is instead of about 60 seconds worth of stupid
tool-knife-stupid tool-hurt hand-knife again-stupid tool just to strip one
end of one wire.
Okay, let=92s hook up my circuit.
This is LDG ON and WIGWAG OFF.
http://n999za.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/20101017-010-large.jpg
But. This is where bad stuff starting happening.
I threw the WIGWAG switch to ON and then used the simulated timer circuit t
o
close the relay. Nothing happened (lights stayed on).
After a little more investigation, I figured out that both the normally ope
n
(NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts were getting +14V all the time (The
NO contact was at +14V because it was being backfed through the flasher. I
don't know if this is a problem or not yet. Maybe this is where I need some
diodes.
During the investigation, I wanted to make sure that everything works as
advertised.
I wired up the flasher from B&C. I not sure it=92s working correctly.
http://videos.videopress.com/uTQKDDyA/20101017-015_dvd.mp4
It=92s making a weird buzzing noise, and the first light comes on and start
s
to dim just as then the second one starts to come on, but it doesn=92t real
ly
finish a singe cycle.
September 28, 2010 - October 18, 2010
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-jt