AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-nb

March 20, 2016 - April 05, 2016



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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 20, 2016
Subject: Re: info on this terminal
Thank you Bob and Lyle. On Sun, Mar 20, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > I think it is intended for soldering. I don't see how you would get a > slip on terminal to stay on/ > > You may be able to put an alligator clip or similar as a heat sink on the > terminal below the solder area. It should only take a very few seconds to > get a good solder joint. > > On 3/20/2016 5:12 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > > Are the terminals on this switch solder only or is there a push on > connector that matches?[image: Inline image 1] > > /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wCEAAUDBAQEAwUEBAQFBQUGBwwIBwcHBw8LCwkMEQ8SEhEP ERETFhwXExQaFRERGCEYGh0dHx8fExciJCIeJBweHx4BBQUFBwYHDggIDh4UERQeHh4eHh4eHh4e Hh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHh4eHv/AABEIAhMCwQMBEQACEQED EQH/xAGiAAABBQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAAAAQIDBAUGBwgJCgsQAAIBAwMCBAMFBQQEAAABfQECAwAE EQUSITFBBhNRYQcicRQygZGhCCNCscEVUtHwJDNicoIJChYXGBkaJSYnKCkqNDU2Nzg5OkNERUZH SElKU1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6g4SFhoeIiYqSk5SVlpeYmZqio6Slpqeoqaqys7S1 tre4ubrCw8TFxsfIycrS09TV1tfY2drh4uPk5ebn6Onq8fLz9PX29/j5+gEAAwEBAQEBAQEBAQAA AAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoLEQACAQIEBAMEBwUEBAABAncAAQIDEQQFITEGEkFRB2FxEyIygQgUQpGh scEJIzNS8BVictEKFiQ04SXxFxgZGiYnKCkqNTY3ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlq 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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 20, 2016
Subject: Re: info on this terminal
Thank you Bob and Lyle. On Sun, Mar 20, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > I think it is intended for soldering. I don't see how you would get a > slip on terminal to stay on/ > > You may be able to put an alligator clip or similar as a heat sink on the > terminal below the solder area. It should only take a very few seconds to > get a good solder joint. > > On 3/20/2016 5:12 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > > Are the terminals on this switch solder only or is there a push on > connector that matches? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Ride to Sun'n Fun
Date: Mar 23, 2016
> Hi guys > > I am an homebuilder from Portugal (Europe) and I'm visiting in Florida, planning to go to Sun'n Fun. > > If any of you is planning to fly into Lakeland between the 5th and the 7th of April, and you have a spare seat in your airplane, I would very much appreciate to take it, from a nearby airport. > > Thanks > Carlos > > Enviado do meu iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2016
Subject: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com>
Hello Group Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable is there a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular? Thanks Hari ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John B <jbsoar(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 23, 2016
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
Fast-on Tabs are more reliable, and probably lighter. Automobiles don't use screws to wires together, generally. The ground straps on automobiles are often screwed or bolted, and they are often the weak points in the electrical system... On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 7:44 AM, Hariharan Gopalan wrote: > Hello Group > > Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable is > there a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular? > > Thanks > Hari > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 23, 2016
I like that when fumbling behind and under the panel there is no screw to drop or threads to strip. I suppose screw terminals generally require an extra joint when building. Crimping the ring terminal then the screw connection. Ken On 23/03/2016 10:44 AM, Hariharan Gopalan wrote: > Hello Group > > Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable > is there a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular? > > Thanks > Hari ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2016
From: Robert Reed <robertr237(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
Considering the fact that reliability of the Fast-on Tabs seems to be equal to the screw on terminals it comes down to accessibility.=C2- It seems t hat most of the electrical connections are always in a hard to access locat ion and getting a screwdriver into those locations is always a chore that g ets considerably worse with age, I will go with the fast-on tabs every time . Bob From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 9:44 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground? Hello Group Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable is the re a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular?=C2- ThanksHari ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Single vacuum drive alternator - good idea?
From: "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Mar 23, 2016
I'm in the early stages of developing my electrical system for my newest project. I'd like to build as light as possible for STOL. Initially considered SD-8 but loads and amp output at economy cruise too close for day/night VFR. I've been moving toward the BC410-H (SD-20). From the little bit of searching I've done, most installations are for all-electric planes as a backup alternator. Are there any known issues of using the BC410-H in single (one only) alternator mode? It seems there are a lot of advantages not having brackets, belts, and mounting hardware. Thanks -------- Thanks too much, John Bickham Mark III-C w/ 912UL St. Francisville, LA I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that I have the greatest respect for. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454035#454035 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2016
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com>
Seems like intuition can be wrong, like in flying. Thanks everyone. On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 12:14 PM, Robert Reed wrote: > Considering the fact that reliability of the Fast-on Tabs seems to be > equal to the screw on terminals it comes down to accessibility. It seems > that most of the electrical connections are always in a hard to access > location and getting a screwdriver into those locations is always a chore > that gets considerably worse with age, I will go with the fast-on tabs > every time. > > Bob > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Hariharan Gopalan > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 23, 2016 9:44 AM > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground? > > Hello Group > > Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable is > there a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular? > > Thanks > Hari > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2016
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Single vacuum drive alternator - good idea?
John, I'm using that setup as my backup alternator. Each flight, I test it as part of my pre-take-off checklist. One time, it wouldn't come up at all - the plastic shear-drive gear had failed. I would treat it like we used to treat our vacuum pumps - rebuild frequently. If you're primarily day-VFR - with an occasional night landing, you're probably OK - as long as your cruise loads are not over 25 amps or so.....I think that unit will put out about 28-30 amps with the primary regulator. YMMV! Ralph Capen -----Original Message----- >From: John Bickham <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> >Sent: Mar 23, 2016 1:33 PM >To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Single vacuum drive alternator - good idea? > > >I'm in the early stages of developing my electrical system for my newest project. I'd like to build as light as possible for STOL. Initially considered SD-8 but loads and amp output at economy cruise too close for day/night VFR. > >I've been moving toward the BC410-H (SD-20). From the little bit of searching I've done, most installations are for all-electric planes as a backup alternator. > >Are there any known issues of using the BC410-H in single (one only) alternator mode? > >It seems there are a lot of advantages not having brackets, belts, and mounting hardware. > >Thanks > >-------- >Thanks too much, > >John Bickham >Mark III-C w/ 912UL >St. Francisville, LA > >I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that I have the greatest respect for. > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454035#454035 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
downside to fat ons is you really do need needle nose to remove them and it gets to the point you wonder if you are damaging the tab or its attachment so much force is needed bob noffs On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Hariharan Gopalan wrote: > Seems like intuition can be wrong, like in flying. > > Thanks everyone. > > On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 12:14 PM, Robert Reed wrote: > >> Considering the fact that reliability of the Fast-on Tabs seems to be >> equal to the screw on terminals it comes down to accessibility. It seems >> that most of the electrical connections are always in a hard to access >> location and getting a screwdriver into those locations is always a chore >> that gets considerably worse with age, I will go with the fast-on tabs >> every time. >> >> Bob >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Hariharan Gopalan >> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 23, 2016 9:44 AM >> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground? >> >> Hello Group >> >> Intuitively screwed down ground terminals seem so much more reliable is >> there a reason the fast-on tabs are more popular? >> >> Thanks >> Hari >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: "Greenbacks, UnLtd." <N4ZQ(at)verizon.net>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: > > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > Any feedback would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2016
From: Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
I have wondered about 2 issues w/ VP systems: 1. The all-your-eggs-in-one-basket issue.=C2- If the unit fails the aircr aft is down and you, the owner, cannot fix it. 2. The system adds several layers of complexity & cost to the relatively si mple task of power distribution. I'm curious if owners of the system share those concerns and how they addre ss them. -Jeff On Thursday, March 24, 2016 7:52 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: om> Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: on.net> > > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > Any feedback would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - S - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
Great to hear from you, Kelly. Dee Whittington, Richmond, VA, here. We have the Vertical Power VP-200, the original top of the line version. Which version do you have? We expect it to work fine once we finally get our Sportsman flying. Unfortunately, we are going to have a local racing engine mechanic pull our Egg Subaru 3.6L engine apart *again* to install forged pistons. That is the fix suggested by Ross Farnham. By the way, where do you live, Kelly? And will you be at AirVenture 2016? I plan to be there all week. Dee 804-677-4849 iPhone DeWitt (Dee) Whittington Richmond, VA 804-677-4849 iPhone 804-358-4333 Home On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > kellym(at)aviating.com> > > Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through > taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? > > > On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: > >> N4ZQ(at)verizon.net> >> >> Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? >> Any feedback would be appreciated. >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
I have the VPX-Pro. I am not concerned about the all in one nature, as I have not heard of significant failure rate, I have all magneto ignition, not dependent on ship's power. I have backup battery on both EFIS, I have Dynon D-1 backup EFIS that is supposed to go 4 hours on its battery, and the RV-10 is easy to overpower out of trim condition, and easy to land no flaps...Not worried about lost com, there are procedures for that, lost lights would only matter after dark. The system gives more flexibility than fuses or circuit breakers. I don't perceive the complexity to be much different than hardware based distribution. If you add the labor of installing fuses and circuit breakers and manual switches for everything, wiring them all together, as well as the cost of that hardware, the VPX isn't that much more money. Kind of like comparing cost of steam gauge instruments vs an EFIS. On 3/24/2016 8:11 AM, Jeff Luckey wrote: > I have wondered about 2 issues w/ VP systems: > > 1. The all-your-eggs-in-one-basket issue. If the unit fails the > aircraft is down and you, the owner, cannot fix it. > > 2. The system adds several layers of complexity & cost to the relatively > simple task of power distribution. > > I'm curious if owners of the system share those concerns and how they > address them. > > -Jeff > > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 7:52 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote: > > > > > > Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through > taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? > > On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: > > > > > > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > > Any feedback would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > > >http://w -Matt Dralle, List ======== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
I have a VP-X in my RV-8. It has performed flawlessly and I think of as a really good investment. It has some very useful features like setting up the flap travel, trim out of control override, etc. A couple clicks on the GRT MFD and I can see what circuits are busy, any "fuses" blown, current draw, etc. I would absolutely install it again were I starting over. Michael Wynn RV-8 Livermore, CA In a message dated 3/24/2016 1:14:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, kellym(at)aviating.com writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen I have the VPX-Pro. I am not concerned about the all in one nature, as I have not heard of significant failure rate, I have all magneto ignition, not dependent on ship's power. I have backup battery on both EFIS, I have Dynon D-1 backup EFIS that is supposed to go 4 hours on its battery, and the RV-10 is easy to overpower out of trim condition, and easy to land no flaps...Not worried about lost com, there are procedures for that, lost lights would only matter after dark. The system gives more flexibility than fuses or circuit breakers. I don't perceive the complexity to be much different than hardware based distribution. If you add the labor of installing fuses and circuit breakers and manual switches for everything, wiring them all together, as well as the cost of that hardware, the VPX isn't that much more money. Kind of like comparing cost of steam gauge instruments vs an EFIS. On 3/24/2016 8:11 AM, Jeff Luckey wrote: > I have wondered about 2 issues w/ VP systems: > > 1. The all-your-eggs-in-one-basket issue. If the unit fails the > aircraft is down and you, the owner, cannot fix it. > > 2. The system adds several layers of complexity & cost to the relatively > simple task of power distribution. > > I'm curious if owners of the system share those concerns and how they > address them. > > -Jeff > > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 7:52 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote: > > > > > > Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through > taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? > > On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greenbacks, UnLtd." > > > > > > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > > Any feedback would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > > >http://w -Matt Dralle, List ======== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
I don't have one of these boxes in my airplane and won't be installing one of these in the airplane i am building, from my perspective there are several areas where it does provide good value: - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and wiring up is difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these statements! - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a limited number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. - The box is expensive compared to fuses. - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure becomes a significant event rather than just an annoyance. - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and tested in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. - The standards used to design, build and test the hardware are not easy to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an EFIS places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault risks potentially very serious consequences. - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative view, flame suit on!! On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge supporter of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world reliability seems to be reasonable. My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical functions you want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion of a flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of using fuses against other means. Install equipment for a reason! Peter On 24 Mar 2016 14:16, "Greenbacks, UnLtd." wrote: > N4ZQ(at)verizon.net> > > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > Any feedback would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
N4ZQ(at)verizon.net wrote: > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? > Any feedback would be appreciated. > I have the VPX-Pro in my Velocity. So far it's working great. Support is great even after the buyout. There are methods to mitigate the possibility of a failure. I utilize them for some of the critical functions (EFIS, AHRS and fuel pump). Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454094#454094 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2016
From: Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
Kelly, While I may not agree w/ some of you assumptions, I have a better understan ding of how you reached your conclusions.=C2- Thanks for sharing that. -Jeff On Thursday, March 24, 2016 1:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: om> I have the VPX-Pro. I am not concerned about the all in one nature, as I have not heard of significant failure rate, I have all magneto ignition, not dependent on ship's power. I have backup battery on both EFIS, I have Dynon D-1 backup EFIS that is supposed to go 4 hours on its battery, and the RV-10 is easy to overpower out of trim condition, and easy to land no flaps...Not worried about lost com, there are procedures for that, lost lights would only matter after dark. The system gives more flexibility than fuses or circuit breakers. I don't perceive the complexity to be much different than hardware based distribution. If you add the labor of installing fuses and circuit breakers and manual switches for everything, wiring them all together, as well as the cost of that hardware, the VPX isn't that much more money. Kind of like comparing cost of steam gauge instruments vs an EFIS. On 3/24/2016 8:11 AM, Jeff Luckey wrote: > I have wondered about 2 issues w/ VP systems: > > 1. The all-your-eggs-in-one-basket issue.=C2- If the unit fails the > aircraft is down and you, the owner, cannot fix it. > > 2. The system adds several layers of complexity & cost to the relatively > simple task of power distribution. > > I'm curious if owners of the system share those concerns and how they > address them. > > -Jeff > > > On Thursday, March 24, 2016 7:52 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote: > > > > > > Yes, I have it in my RV-10. So far seems to perform as expected through > taxi testing. First flight up soon. What do you want to know? > > On 3/24/2016 6:52 AM, Greenbacks, UnLtd. wrote: > > >=C2- > >=C2- > Have any of you incorporated this box into your panel build? >=C2- > Any feedback would be appreciated. >=C2- > >=C2- > Thanks >=C2- > >=C2- >http://w =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dr alle, List ======== > > =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - S - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
jbsoar(at)gmail.com wrote: > Fast-on Tabs are more reliable, and probably lighter. How can Fast-on Tabs be more reliable? They are held on with just friction. A ring terminal with a locknut would seem to be more secure. I am NOT saying Fast-on's are unreliable. Just trying to understand the statement. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454097#454097 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2016
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
Hi All; The friction of fast tabs is mighty. They're hard to pull off. The friction of a screw and tapped hole or nut may actually be less. Cheers! Stu. ----- Original Message ----- From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 5:01:22 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground? jbsoar(at)gmail.com wrote: > Fast-on Tabs are more reliable, and probably lighter. How can Fast-on Tabs be more reliable? They are held on with just friction. A ring terminal with a locknut would seem to be more secure. I am NOT saying Fast-on's are unreliable. Just trying to understand the statement. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454097#454097 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Ever tried to get a "fast on" terminal (PIDG type) off of a good spade with your bare fingers? Almost impossible....yet screws and locknuts (without locktite that is) can and do often work themselves loose, especially during the first 40 hrs of flight as things "settle in". We many thousands upon thousands of both per year, and I'm a bit ambivalent to either being superior, but I do know that if you use high quality terminals those things are VERY good. Just my 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of donjohnston Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 7:01 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground? --> <don@velocity-xl.com> jbsoar(at)gmail.com wrote: > Fast-on Tabs are more reliable, and probably lighter. How can Fast-on Tabs be more reliable? They are held on with just friction. A ring terminal with a locknut would seem to be more secure. I am NOT saying Fast-on's are unreliable. Just trying to understand the statement. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454097#454097 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2016
Misconceptions from lack of familiarity. On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote: > - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and wiring up is > difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these statements! Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring. > - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a limited > number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional > services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit > breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, which is what I have, with several pins available for expansion. > - The box is expensive compared to fuses. Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to replace any that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & fuses system...easily $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and create panel of fuses/CB etc, and you are over price of VPX. Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they designed their own box. > - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure becomes a > significant event rather than just an annoyance. AFAIK, unknown event so far. > - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and tested > in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs. > - The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware are not easy > to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. Theoretical, where is data of unreliability? > - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an EFIS > places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault > risks potentially very serious consequences. Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position sensor. Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for trim speed control, runaway protection, wig wag lights. > - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their > support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative view, flame > suit on!! Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not facts. > On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge supporter > of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world > reliability seems to be reasonable. Data behind that assertion??? > > My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical functions you > want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion of a > flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the > operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of > using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as reason! > > Peter No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent is you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If critical, you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for portable GPS and Com radio for back up? You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there to fly in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is critical to continued flight without independent dual systems? The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just software. Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example of your aircraft model? Do you know how trim dependent it is? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
Flame suit is on and I stand by all of my comments. As VPX has control of trim and flap motor based on an input from the EFIS any error in this chain could cause significant problems. With an IFR aircraft it is just about essential to have an alternative power supply to the attitude instrument(s), outside of the VPX. I have had 25 years experience working with airborne software writers, I don't trust them as much as some here seem to! Peter On 25 Mar 2016 02:52, "Kelly McMullen" wrote: > kellym(at)aviating.com> > > Misconceptions from lack of familiarity. > > On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote: > >> - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and wiring up is >> difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these statements! >> > Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring. > >> - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a limited >> number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional >> services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit >> breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. >> > The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, which > is what I have, with several pins available for expansion. > >> - The box is expensive compared to fuses. >> > Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to replace any > that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & fuses system...easily > $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and create panel of fuses/CB etc, > and you are over price of VPX. > Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they designed > their own box. > >> - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure becomes a >> significant event rather than just an annoyance. >> > AFAIK, unknown event so far. > >> - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and tested >> in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. >> > Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs. > >> - The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware are not >> easy >> to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. >> > Theoretical, where is data of unreliability? > > - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an EFIS >> places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault >> risks potentially very serious consequences. >> > Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap > position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position sensor. > Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for trim speed > control, runaway protection, wig wag lights. > >> - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their >> support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative view, flame >> suit on!! >> > Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not facts. > > On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge supporter >> of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world >> reliability seems to be reasonable. >> > > Data behind that assertion??? > >> >> My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical functions you >> want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion of a >> flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the >> operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of >> using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as reason! >> >> Peter >> > No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent is > you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If critical, > you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for portable GPS and > Com radio for back up? > You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there to fly > in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is critical to > continued flight without independent dual systems? > The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware > issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software > reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just software. > Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example of your aircraft > model? Do you know how trim dependent it is? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fast-on tabs or screw terminals for ground?
From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Well, to be fair, your 2 cents are worth about $2 compared to others. ;-) And I will continue providing you funds so you can offer your 2 cents here. Thanks for all that you do! stein(at)steinair.com wrote: > Ever tried to get a "fast on" terminal (PIDG type) off of a good spade with > your bare fingers? Almost impossible....yet screws and locknuts (without > locktite that is) can and do often work themselves loose, especially during > the first 40 hrs of flight as things "settle in". > > We many thousands upon thousands of both per year, and I'm a bit ambivalent > to either being superior, but I do know that if you use high quality > terminals those things are VERY good. > > Just my 2 cents as usual. > > Cheers, > Stein > > -- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454116#454116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jan <jan(at)CLAVER.DEMON.CO.UK>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
Date: Mar 25, 2016
:-) .. someone once told me that ignorance is bliss ... Jan _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Pengilly Sent: 25 March 2016 07:23 Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport Flame suit is on and I stand by all of my comments. As VPX has control of trim and flap motor based on an input from the EFIS any error in this chain could cause significant problems. With an IFR aircraft it is just about essential to have an alternative power supply to the attitude instrument(s), outside of the VPX. I have had 25 years experience working with airborne software writers, I don't trust them as much as some here seem to! Peter On 25 Mar 2016 02:52, "Kelly McMullen" > wrote: > Misconceptions from lack of familiarity. On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote: - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and wiring up is difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these statements! Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring. - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a limited number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, which is what I have, with several pins available for expansion. - The box is expensive compared to fuses. Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to replace any that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & fuses system...easily $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and create panel of fuses/CB etc, and you are over price of VPX. Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they designed their own box. - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure becomes a significant event rather than just an annoyance. AFAIK, unknown event so far. - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and tested in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs. - The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware are not easy to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. Theoretical, where is data of unreliability? - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an EFIS places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault risks potentially very serious consequences. Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position sensor. Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for trim speed control, runaway protection, wig wag lights. - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative view, flame suit on!! Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not facts. On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge supporter of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world reliability seems to be reasonable. Data behind that assertion??? My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical functions you want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion of a flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as reason! Peter No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent is you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If critical, you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for portable GPS and Com radio for back up? You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there to fly in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is critical to continued flight without independent dual systems? The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just software. Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example of your aircraft model? Do you know how trim dependent it is? ========== br> fts!) r> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ========== - Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List ========== FORUMS - eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com ========== b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">

J .. someone once told me that ignorance is bliss …

 

Jan

 


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Pengilly
Sent: 25 March 2016 07:23
To: Aeroelectric List (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport

 

Flame suit is on and I stand by all of my comments. As VPX has control of trim and flap motor based on an input from the EFIS any error in this chain could cause significant problems. With an IFR aircraft it is just about essential to have an alternative power supply to the attitude instrument(s), outside of the VPX.

I have had 25 years experience working with airborne software writers, I don't trust them as much as some here seem to!

Peter

On 25 Mar 2016 02:52, "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:

--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>

Misconceptions from lack of familiarity.

On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote:

- The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and wiring up is
difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these statements!

Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring.

- It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a limited
number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional
services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit
breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless.

The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, which is what I have, with several pins available for expansion.

- The box is expensive compared to fuses.

Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to replace any that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & fuses system...easily $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and create panel of fuses/CB etc, and you are over price of VPX.
Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they designed their own box.

- Combining many functions in one box means that any failure becomes a
significant event rather than just an annoyance.

AFAIK, unknown event so far.

- The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and tested
in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence.

Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs.

- The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware are not easy
to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability.

Theoretical, where is data of unreliability?

- Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an EFIS
places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault
risks potentially very serious consequences.

Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position sensor. Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for trim speed control, runaway protection, wig wag lights.

- Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their
support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative view, flame
suit on!!

Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not facts.

On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge supporter
of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world
reliability seems to be reasonable.


Data behind that assertion???


My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical functions you
want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion of a
flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the
operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of
using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as reason!

Peter

No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent is you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If critical, you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for portable GPS and Com radio for back up?
You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there to fly in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is critical to continued flight without independent dual systems?
The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just software. Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example of your aircraft model? Do you know how trim dependent it is?

===========
br> fts!)
r> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution>           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroEl ectric-List
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com> ===========
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          -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Your assertion that the flap and trim in the VPX is dependent on EFIS is flat incorrect. It only uses the airspeed to control how fast the trim motor runs or to prevent exceeding flap airspeed limit, which is something other systems don't do. You apparently missed that I have independent power backup to EFIS should something fail in the VPX. I also have an independent EFIS that isn't dependent on ship's power at all, which has battery life close to fuel range of the aircraft. The likely problems a failure of the VPX would cause is same as loss of alternator. I suppose a circuit could go crazy, so you turn the master off. I don't trust the VPX any more than I do the alternator or traditional power layouts. I've seen the failure of voltage regulators and overvoltage systems and the havoc they cause. If you have planned correctly, there is no more risk than a traditional fuse and circuit breaker design. Asserting there is more risk has no demonstrated basis that I have seen. If you have evidence, please educate us. On 3/25/2016 12:23 AM, Peter Pengilly wrote: > Flame suit is on and I stand by all of my comments. As VPX has control > of trimou and flap motor based on an input from the EFIS any error in this > chain could cause significant problems. With an IFR aircraft it is just > about essential to have an alternative power supply to the attitude > instrument(s), outside of the VPX. > > I have had 25 years experience working with airborne software writers, I > don't trust them as much as some here seem to! > > Peter > > On 25 Mar 2016 02:52, "Kelly McMullen" > wrote: > > > > > Misconceptions from lack of familiarity. > > On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote: > > - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and > wiring up is > difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these > statements! > > Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring. > > - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a > limited > number of circuits available, once these are used up any additional > services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or circuit > breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. > > The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, > which is what I have, with several pins available for expansion. > > - The box is expensive compared to fuses. > > Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to > replace any that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & > fuses system...easily $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and > create panel of fuses/CB etc, and you are over price of VPX. > Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they > designed their own box. > > - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure > becomes a > significant event rather than just an annoyance. > > AFAIK, unknown event so far. > > - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and > tested > in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. > > Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs. > > - The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware > are not easy > to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. > > Theoretical, where is data of unreliability? > > - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an > EFIS > places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a fault > risks potentially very serious consequences. > > Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap > position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position > sensor. Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for > trim speed control, runaway protection, wig wag lights. > > - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their > support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative > view, flame > suit on!! > > Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not facts. > > On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge > supporter > of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world > reliability seems to be reasonable. > > > Data behind that assertion??? > > > My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical > functions you > want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion > of a > flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to entrust the > operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the cost of > using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as reason! > > Peter > > No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent > is you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If > critical, you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for > portable GPS and Com radio for back up? > You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there > to fly in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is > critical to continued flight without independent dual systems? > The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware > issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software > reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just > software. Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example > of your aircraft model? Do you know how trim dependent it is? > > ========== > br> fts!) > r> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
http://www.matronics.com/contribution > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > ========== > - > Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Subject: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Greetings, I need a sanity check on my current thoughts for the charging circuit in my RV-7. Please note that this is *not* a typical Lyc installation, so many of the assumed requirements/limits do not apply. Engine: Mazda Renesis automotive conversion with total electrical dependency. Alternator(s): 2 ea identical ND internally regulated alternators, each rated at 60 amps. (This choice was driven by both budget constraints and simplicity of installation) My goals/choices are: 1. 'Unlimited' availability of electrical power, to avoid in-route diversion in the case of alternator failure. I accept a single battery,due to the very small likelihood of battery failure. Fuel will easily outlast any but very big/heavy batteries. A PC680 is good for only ~45 minutes with only the engine consuming electrons; much less time with avionics on line. 2.Redundant paths of power to the buss, due to the engine's total dependence on electricity. 3. Ability to check both alternators for proper operation before flight. 4. Optional 'auto-start' for 2nd alt, if alt1 goes offline for any reason. 5.Since the auto engine accessory end allows the 'backup' alternator to be the same size as the primary, I'm willing to use one buss and shed individual loads manually, if multiple failures require it. 6.Continuous electrical load for the engine/fuel pump/instrumentation is ~15 amps at full engine output (yes, it varies). This may seem high, but with high pressure injection pumps and injectors, plus high energy automotive coils, this is pretty 'normal', and has been verified by others running similar systems. 7.Balance of additional avionics & other loads, assuming night flight with heated pitot on, would be an additional 27 amps, worse case. There's minimal likelihood of flying this plane in those conditions, but it could happen, so... 8. Intermittent loads of significance would be: fuel transfer pump (8A), flaps (10A), and landing light (5A). The attached rough sketch shows the IR alternators controlled by regular continuous duty solenoids incorporating Bob's OV modules for OV protection. The two switches supplying (redundant) power to the buss are 50A DC rated toggles (not a hard requirement, but simpler than additional contactor/switch pairs). The diode (high current Schottky's are cheap these days) is to prevent powering alt2's contactor control circuit unless alt2's switch was closed, but provide a redundant path from battery to buss. I desired 'autostart' for alt2, so I added the contactor circuit drawn below the buss. It's intended to be a normally closed relay, held open by the same circuit that supplies power to alt1's contactor. As I type this, I realize that the NC relay needs a diode between its output terminal and the 5A CB, so that it can't be required to carry buss loads when alt2's switch is closed. Any issues with performing a 'mag check' (output check) of the two 50A switches and their alt's, with the engine near idle power & minimal loads? (I'm aware of 'load dump' issues when cycling IR alts at high power.) A related question I'd like an answer to is this: If using internally regulated alternators, is there any issue with leaving both on line at the same time, if they are diode-isolated? Sorry for the long post, but I thought a detailed narrative was required. Remember, auto engine, identical dual internally regulated alternators. Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
That's a rather angry post, let's try to take the emotion out of this discussion. Looking at the flap and trim control only. The VPX is a software driven machine. It takes switch inputs, recognises the pilot has requested a certain action and switches power to a service. The logic is executed by software. I do not know what standard was used to design, code and test the software. The VPX has full control of the flap and trim motors and can drive them to full deflection at any time it chooses, either would be rather bad news in most aircraft, particularly at cruise speed . If that were to happen at a slow rate I believe the only way to stop it would be to shut down the whole VPX - I'm not even sure if that is possible. I hope there are some protections built into the VPX to prevent un-commanded movement, but I don't know as I cannot find that data in the public domain. Therefore we only have the assertions of the designers that motor run-aways will not happen. EFISs are also software driven machines, all of the common uncertified EFISs are in the same boat - I have asked the manufacturers how their software was written, they have declined to answer. So we have a device of unknown quality passing data to a second device of equally unknown quality to control a function that we really need to work correctly all of the time. That is rather too much trust to put in people I have never met and who are unwilling to describe how they ensure their design goals are achieved in their products. However good a VPX is at managing an electrical system, from my perspective this type of function is taking unnecessary risks for very little gain. It is also expensive when a few fuses will carry out the same job. Peter On 25/03/2016 20:35, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > > Your assertion that the flap and trim in the VPX is dependent on EFIS > is flat incorrect. It only uses the airspeed to control how fast the > trim motor runs or to prevent exceeding flap airspeed limit, which is > something other systems don't do. You apparently missed that I have > independent power backup to EFIS should something fail in the VPX. I > also have an independent EFIS that isn't dependent on ship's power at > all, which has battery life close to fuel range of the aircraft. > The likely problems a failure of the VPX would cause is same as loss > of alternator. I suppose a circuit could go crazy, so you turn the > master off. I don't trust the VPX any more than I do the alternator or > traditional power layouts. I've seen the failure of voltage regulators > and overvoltage systems and the havoc they cause. If you have planned > correctly, there is no more risk than a traditional fuse and circuit > breaker design. Asserting there is more risk has no demonstrated basis > that I have seen. If you have evidence, please educate us. > > On 3/25/2016 12:23 AM, Peter Pengilly wrote: >> Flame suit is on and I stand by all of my comments. As VPX has control >> of trimou and flap motor based on an input from the EFIS any error >> in this >> chain could cause significant problems. With an IFR aircraft it is just >> about essential to have an alternative power supply to the attitude >> instrument(s), outside of the VPX. >> >> I have had 25 years experience working with airborne software writers, I >> don't trust them as much as some here seem to! >> >> Peter >> >> On 25 Mar 2016 02:52, "Kelly McMullen" > > wrote: >> >> > >> >> Misconceptions from lack of familiarity. >> >> On 3/24/2016 4:15 PM, Peter Pengilly wrote: >> >> - The sales pitch is that designing electrical systems and >> wiring up is >> difficult and this box makes it easy. I don't agree with these >> statements! >> >> Never perceived it that way. It does simplify the wiring. >> >> - It provides limited opportunities for expansion. There are a >> limited >> number of circuits available, once these are used up any >> additional >> services will have to be protected by conventional fuses or >> circuit >> breakers - seems to make the box a little pointless. >> >> The Pro version is not that limited, is intended for full IFR panel, >> which is what I have, with several pins available for expansion. >> >> - The box is expensive compared to fuses. >> >> Not when you have to physically install each, do the labor to >> replace any that blow, etc. I had full hardware priced for CB & >> fuses system...easily $500. Add 100 hours of labor to design, and >> create panel of fuses/CB etc, and you are over price of VPX. >> Advanced Flight Systems thought enough of the concept that they >> designed their own box. >> >> - Combining many functions in one box means that any failure >> becomes a >> significant event rather than just an annoyance. >> >> AFAIK, unknown event so far. >> >> - The software is designed and coded to an unknown standard and >> tested >> in an unknown way, neither of which engenders confidence. >> >> Have had no issues, have been operating the system for about 3 yrs. >> >> - The standAFAIKards used to design, build and test the hardware >> are not easy >> to discern, leading to questions on the long term reliability. >> >> Theoretical, where is data of unreliability? >> >> - Using the box to control trim and flaps using an input from an >> EFIS >> places a huge amount of trust in the software writers where a >> fault >> risks potentially very serious consequences. >> >> Does not use EFIS for input beyond airspeed, only outputs trim/flap >> position to EFIS. Position comes from trim motor or a position >> sensor. Power goes to trim/flap motor. No extra boxes needed for >> trim speed control, runaway protection, wig wag lights. >> >> - Those an have chosen to use this box can be very firm in their >> support, and intolerant of those who present an alternative >> view, flame >> suit on!! >> >> Only intolerant of criticism generated by lack of knowledge, not >> facts. >> >> On the supportive side, the designer (Marc Ausman) is a huge >> supporter >> of homebuilt aviation, and is a director of EAA. The real world >> reliability seems to be reasonable. >> >> >> Data behind that assertion??? >> >> >> My advice would be to start by listing all the electrical >> functions you >> want in your aircraft, then which are key to the safe completion >> of a >> flight. If you have (m)any of these are you content to >> entrust the >> operation of these functions to the VPX? If you are list the >> cost of >> using fuses against other means. Install equipment for as >> reason! >> >> Peter >> >> No problem with your recommendations, but how electrically dependent >> is you aircraft? How critical are items beyond engine ignition? If >> critical, you need some independent backup. Are you not planning for >> portable GPS and Com radio for back up? >> You can't fly commercial activities, so how much pressure is there >> to fly in solid IFR? Why would you design electrical system that is >> critical to continued flight without independent dual systems? >> The VPX offers a lot of convenience and flexibility without hardware >> issues. want to switch an item from buss A to B? Just a software >> reconfigure. Want to change landing lights wig-wag function? Just >> software. Ditto for trim or flap limits. Have you flown an example >> of your aircraft model? Do you know how trim dependent it is? >> >> ========== >> br> fts!) >> r> > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" >> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com >> rel="noreferrer" >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> ========== >> - >> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 25, 2016
The relay under the bus will always be energized whenever the main bus is on, unless the 5 amp breaker is tripped or pulled off. I do not understand its function. It is my understanding that two alternators on line at the same time will fight each other and cause the system voltage to oscillate unless the voltage set-point of one of them is set a few tenths of a volt below the other one. Consider using contactors or heavy duty relays instead of 50 amp switches. Relays allow remote control so that power can be shut off near the battery. That feature is important in the event of a forced landing or crash to prevent sparks from igniting leaking fuel. Consider supplying power to the man bus at both ends. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454159#454159 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Subject: Brass Strap alternative in Z-19RB
From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com>
I have the batteries under the pilot and co-pilot seats. Z-19RB is designed with both the batteries together and hence the connections between the main battery contactor and the engine battery contactor is shown as a brass strap. Can I replace this with a cable instead? The length would be approximately 24". If yes, what guage of cable should I be using? Thanks Hari ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Mar 25, 2016
Who wouldn't be annoyed with someone making negative assertions with zero data, against a product simply because the company won't hand over their proprietary software/circuitry, etc. Just because you haven't been given the opportunity to copy their design, critique their methods, etc. that they spent good money/time developing. About as useful a post as one about various flavors of politicians. Doesn't advance the knowledge of the equipment one bit. Just a waste of bandwidth. All based on zero information, just speculation. Out of respect for Bob, I won't say more. Would like information on any failures, with details, to help us better understand the risks and how to avoid them. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 25, 2016
On 3/25/2016 8:16 PM, user9253 wrote: > > The relay under the bus will always be energized whenever the main bus is on, unless the 5 amp breaker is tripped or pulled off. I do not understand its function. > It is my understanding that two alternators on line at the same time will fight each other and cause the system voltage to oscillate unless the voltage set-point of one of them is set a few tenths of a volt below the other one. > Consider using contactors or heavy duty relays instead of 50 amp switches. Relays allow remote control so that power can be shut off near the battery. That feature is important in the event of a forced landing or crash to prevent sparks from igniting leaking fuel. > Consider supplying power to the man bus at both ends. > > -------- > Joe Gores > Joe, Thanks for the reply. Just took another look at my rough sketch; I drew the switch arm incorrectly for the way it is intended to operate. The relay in question is SPDT; the 'on' state drives the switch element away from the load. Opening alt1's CB removes power, passing power through the other CB to alt2's contactor. I haven't ruled out using contactors, but prefer the switch option. Not included in the rough drawing are planned fusible links on the lines feeding the 50A switches. I agree with the concern, but after a post mentioning similar setups in certified a/c (likely without fusible link protection), I decided to explore the option. The 'upside', at least in my head, would be removing all the extra failure points that show up with the extra components. (The two alt contactors & starter contactor are all within a few inches of the battery and each other, so should need no extra protection.) I've heard the same thing about regulator 'hunting' if there are two alts feeding the same buss, but the examples given seem to be of externally regulated alts. I do know there are twins with I am curious about whether this will happen with internally regulated alts. Even if I must forgo simultaneous operation, I hope I can still do a pre-takeoff check by pulling alt1's CB & opening the switch (or contactor..) on that side. Not crazy about pulling the CB before each flight, but it *is* a pull-able breaker. And I'd probably only do it on cross countries, where I'd really need alt2 for endurance. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
Date: Mar 26, 2016
I could be wrong here but I do not think Peter is after looking at the code in detail - All I think he is asking is to what standards are the software designed .. Is it event driven .. is it time triggered .. if you want to be educated .. just do a Google on Software development for mission critical software systems ... IEC 61508, ISO 26262, DO-178C, MISRA C. So the point here is (I think anyway) . if the supplier is not willing to say to what standard the software is written. Then as an individual you take the trust of who ever has written it ... True you can write software to a particular standard, and still get it wrong .. but at the end of the day .. writing and following a known standards does at least say something about how the system was designed. Jan -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: 26 March 2016 02:58 Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport Who wouldn't be annoyed with someone making negative assertions with zero data, against a product simply because the company won't hand over their proprietary software/circuitry, etc. Just because you haven't been given the opportunity to copy their design, critique their methods, etc. that they spent good money/time developing. About as useful a post as one about various flavors of politicians. Doesn't advance the knowledge of the equipment one bit. Just a waste of bandwidth. All based on zero information, just speculation. Out of respect for Bob, I won't say more. Would like information on any failures, with details, to help us better understand the risks and how to avoid them. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
Please see point 8 in my original post. I don't want to see anyone's proprietary information, I haven't coded anything in several years and anyway looking at code is often unproductive. I have designed complex airborne systems and it is the standards used to guide the design process and the design goals that I am interested in. All complex electronics are expensive, and represent a significant investment from the owner. Just saying, 'this is great, give me loads of money' is a rather condescending outlook. I have an EFIS in my aircraft, I bought a unit from a company that was the most open about how it designed its products when I was shopping. I asked them all the same questions, see here <http://www.glosterairparts.co.uk/How_to_choose_an_EFIS_pt1.pdf> and here <http://www.glosterairparts.co.uk/How_to_choose_an_EFIS_pt2.pdf> although they are a little dated now. All I am seeking is some level of assurance that expensive products that carry out important functions are designed appropriately. Please provide the data you used to determine that using a VPX as you do in your aircraft is a sensible thing to do. You have stated that a VPX is not expensive, to make that assertion you must have compared the cost against using fuses. Can you share that analysis? My aim is to help builders/owners to understand the risks they are running by installing various equipment in their aircraft. If you understand the risks and are prepared to accept them I have no issue at all. The OP asked for feedback, I am explaining why I have not installed the device. Peter On 26/03/2016 02:58, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > > Who wouldn't be annoyed with someone making negative assertions with > zero data, against a product simply because the company won't hand > over their proprietary software/circuitry, etc. Just because you > haven't been given the opportunity to copy their design, critique > their methods, etc. that they spent good money/time developing. > About as useful a post as one about various flavors of politicians. > Doesn't advance the knowledge of the equipment one bit. Just a waste > of bandwidth. All based on zero information, just speculation. > Out of respect for Bob, I won't say more. > Would like information on any failures, with details, to help us > better understand the risks and how to avoid them. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
Date: Mar 26, 2016
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: Bob, Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer. It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each. Of course I'll take care of the postage each way. Thanks for any help you can give me. Larry Mac Donald > Thanks Bob, > If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. > Larry > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > >>> Bob, >>> There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. >>> Larry >> >> Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger >> connectors is pretty easy if you have the >> punches for d-sub holes. I do have those. >> I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s) >> properly punched, in a few minutes. >> >> I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many >> wires. I've probably got what you need in >> crimped housings and pins to do the job. >> Got a tool I could loan you too. >> Bob . . . ____________________________________________________________ Wall Street Daily Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/56f6a925a152329245007st04duc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
If both alternators are online at the same time, over voltage on one alternator could cause both over-voltage modules to short and trip their breakers. Considering that many modern avionics can operate between 12 and 30 volts, automatic over-voltage protection might not be necessary. The battery might resist voltage rise for a minute until the pilot reacts to the EFIS high voltage warning and shuts off the alternator. There is no automatic switch over to alternator 2 because that bottom relay will never drop out while the main bus is hot unless alternator 1 breaker is pulled or tripped. The bottom relay will have to be able to handle full main- switch #2 current because very little will flow through the diode. The relay contacts short out the diode. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454178#454178 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
From: Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts store. A couple I bought have 6 different types or styles of release tools on one central block. Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing. On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > Bob, > Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from > Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins > and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer. > It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and > now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not > have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in > the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built > around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I > would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to > recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like > Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each. > Of course I'll take care of the postage each way. > Thanks for any help you can give me. > Larry Mac Donald > >> Thanks Bob, >> If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. >> Larry >> On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> >>>> Bob, >>>> There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. >>>> Larry >>> >>> Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger >>> connectors is pretty easy if you have the >>> punches for d-sub holes. I do have those. >>> I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s) >>> properly punched, in a few minutes. >>> >>> I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many >>> wires. 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Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
From: Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts store. A couple I purchased have 6 different types or styles of release tools on one central block. Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing. On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > Bob, > Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from > Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins > and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer. > It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and > now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not > have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in > the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built > around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I > would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to > recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like > Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each. > Of course I'll take care of the postage each way. > Thanks for any help you can give me. > Larry Mac Donald > >> Thanks Bob, >> If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. >> Larry >> On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> >>>> Bob, >>>> There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. >>>> Larry >>> >>> Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger >>> connectors is pretty easy if you have the >>> punches for d-sub holes. I do have those. >>> I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s) >>> properly punched, in a few minutes. >>> >>> I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many >>> wires. I've probably got what you need in >>> crimped housings and pins to do the job. >>> Got a tool I could loan you too. >>> Bob . . . > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Wall Street Daily* > Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56f6a925a152329245007st04duc>http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56f6a925a152329245007st04duc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
A telescoping antenna has several sizes of brass tube. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454185#454185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical Power X-VP Pro or Sport
At 10:11 AM 3/24/2016, you wrote: >I have wondered about 2 issues w/ VP systems: > >1. The all-your-eggs-in-one-basket issue. If the unit fails the >aircraft is down and you, the owner, cannot fix it. > >2. The system adds several layers of complexity & cost to the >relatively simple task of power distribution. > >I'm curious if owners of the system share those concerns and how >they address them. We've had discussions about these kinds of systems on numerous occasions over the years that began with relatively innocuous products like the EXP-Bus http://tinyurl.com/jucvcar and sort of reached an apex with the Vertical Power products. Based on my experience in the TC aircraft world, I've always assessed such offerings from two perspectives: Cost of ownership: Over the lifetime of the airplane . . . from the day you plunk down your credit card to order the product until the time you sell or scrap the airplane, what is the $service-value$ when compared to the $acquisition/maintenance value$? Part of that cost of ownership has to include cost to acquire and install the system. Our airplanes are not very complex. A review of the Z-figures describes a range of complexity from ultra-lights to a Lance Air 4P. If one chooses to wire up fuse blocks and flip switches purchased at the hardware store, the cost of acquisition can be quite nominal . . . but the number of tinker-toys is greater and they are not combined into plug-n-play modules. However, no single component is very expensive hence easily and cheaply replaced when it reaches end of service life. Further, nothing is 'automatic' . . . we are encouraged to be technically cognizant pilots, not appliance operators. Even when you consider the totality of automation offered by any airplane super-system, what percentage of your block-to-block trip time is consumed doing those operations yourself? Once you've deduce the demands on your time and attention for manual operations, how much are you willing to pay to have those things done for you? The other side of the coin begs the question for how much understanding and in-flight cognizance is discouraged or even denied to you when you let the software do it for you? I am reminded of a line from "The Right Stuff" attributed to Deke Slayton of the original astronauts after discovering that they were being selected to be mere passengers on the first US manned space flights. Deke Slayton: What Gus is saying is that we're missing the point. What Gus is saying is that we all heard the rumors that they want to send a monkey up first. Well, none of us wants to think that they're gonna send a monkey up to do a man's work. But what Gus is saying is that what they're trying to do to us is send a man up to do a monkey's work. Us, a bunch of college-trained chimpanzees! Animals had been used in aeronautic exploration since 1783 when the Montgolfier brothers sent a sheep, a duck and a rooster aloft in a hot air balloon. We've come a long way since then . . . we KNOW that high speed motion at altitude is not inherently hazardous . . . we also know that MOST unhappy days in the cockpit have roots in lack of knowledge, skill or just inattention. I started the AeroElectric Connection in 1988 based on an observation at OSH suggesting that the electrical system was the least understood component of the OBAM aircraft. The 'Connection grew out of the notion that the whole universe runs on stone-simple-ideas in physics. All creativity is a study in properties of materials and management of energy. Ergo, if you can learn to make bread or repair your lawn mower, you can also learn to how to craft and operate a machine that would have scared the socks of the Montgolfier brothers with less risk than their first living passengers might have been exposed to. If Goggle has their way, self flying airplanes are right on the heals of self-driving cars. No doubt there will be customers for those products. Don't know why everyone else likes to fly but I do it because I'm a pilot with an intense interest in how and why the machine works while maintaining it with a minimum of interference, cost and down time for repairs. Probability for electrical system malfunctions being root cause for bent machines and/or people are vanishingly small. Yet many of our brothers 'worry' about the electrics for what I'll suggest are two primary reasons. Lack of understanding combined with the relative frequency of 'dark n stormy night' stories in the aviation rags that speak to electrical systems issues while illuminating the pilot's ignorance. If installing a 'push-button' electrical system is attractive, then do some soul searching for the motivation. I it a ploy to avoid a need to understand . . . or just a love of technological bells and whistles. If money is no object and having and airplane with lots of nice displays is a goal, then by all means. But if money is tight but you're worried about the artful combination of simple-ingredients in a recipe for success, then allow me to suggest that the learning curve is steep and not difficult. If push-button utility is the goal, then know that virtually ALL products ranging from EXP-Bus to Vertical Power do perform as advertised. Choice of products is all about how large the bells-and- whistles bucket is. Another consideration is cost of ownership for the fielded system. When it breaks, what are your options for getting it back in service, at what cost and down time on the airplane? There's a cost of competence and confidence when the root cause of failure is not understood and remedy is beyond your control. A situation that seldom occurs when your recipe for success is a collection of simple components from the hardware store. The second benchmark speaks to failure mode effects analysis and mitigation that asks the following questions: 1. How many ways can this part fail? 2. How will each failure affect system operation? 3. How will I know it failed? 4. Is the failure pre-flight detectable? 5. Is failure of this part, in any failure mode, likely to create a hazard to flight? 6. Will failure of this part be likely to overtax my piloting skills for comfortably terminating the flight? When you're looking at a nice touch-screen with lots of pretty colors, most of the answers to the above are not known to you. On the other hand, a small box of fuses, switches, relays, terminals and wire has no secrets . . . and allows the builder to comfortably asses all the above and the important SEVENTH question: 7. Is there any failure with effects that influence more than one system? Having good answers to the above is foundation for a failure tolerant, low maintenance, minimum cost of ownership product with minimized risk. That's how be built Beechjets and Bonanzas . . . machines I like to think of as airplanes for pilots. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, Joe; responses inserted below. On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 11:48 AM, user9253 wrote: > > If both alternators are online at the same time, > over voltage on one alternator could cause both > over-voltage modules to short and trip their breakers. > You're right, of course. Looks like the only option would be to diode isolate the alts outputs from each other, and do OV detection behind the diodes. Unfortunately, that induces up to .45V drop, even with Schottky diodes. Might be able to get away with that & still charge the battery properly; might not. Would be nice to be able to adjust an internally regulated alternator's output... > > Considering that many modern avionics can operate > between 12 and 30 volts, automatic over-voltage > protection might not be necessary. The battery might > resist voltage rise for a minute until the pilot reacts to > the EFIS high voltage warning and shuts off the alternator. > True, but I'd prefer not to depend on my reaction time if the event comes during at high workload time. Will keep that option in mind. > > There is no automatic switch over to alternator 2 because > that bottom relay will never drop out while the main bus > is hot unless alternator 1 breaker is pulled or tripped. > Correct. I've been focused entirely on OV events, and neglected the *under*voltage possibility. Perhaps I can live with that; with undervoltage alerts from the EFIS and battery capacity, I should have a longer safe response window. > > The bottom relay will have to be able to handle full main- > switch #2 current because very little will flow through > the diode. The relay contacts short out the diode. > Correct, and I noticed that as I was typing the 1st email. I think I mentioned an omitted 2nd diode. I've attached a revised drawing with the additional diode, and the NC relay in the correct position. I also added a fuse link to the feed line for the auto-transfer supply, for wire protection. Consider the auto-transfer components below the 'hash' line as optional, but desirable to me. As drawn, I should be able to pull alt1's CB, close alt2's main supply switch, and start the engine. (Start control not included in the drawing.) After engine start, verify 14V from alt2, then close alt1's main supply switch, open alt2's supply switch, and close alt1's CB. Then verify 14V from alt1. As mentioned in a previous email, I'm not crazy about resetting the CB every flight, but CB specs seem to indicate ~2500 cycle life for pullable CBs, so it might get the same treatment as Bob's 'battery rotation' concept and be replaced at every 4th or 5th annual. (Even that would be overkill for me; I don't fly that often.) An OV fault should bring alt2 online automatically, and I'll add detection to the auto-transfer relay to get notification if it activates alt2. I'll depend on the EFIS for under-voltage notification and bring alt2 online manually by pulling alt1's CB (would also remove any potential load caused by the defective alt1). Still not locked-in to using the 50A switches, but am still leaning that way. Should have drawn the fuse links in this revision, but forgot. Won't forget to install them, though. :-) Thanks again, Joe. Any more thoughts, anyone? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Lyle, If you take Bob up on his offer of new plates punched for subD connectors, I don't think you'll be able to use the existing pins. Hard to know from just looking at a pic, but it's unlikely they will fit a subD housing (especially if Stein's extractor tool doesn't work). The standard size subD pins are not cheap, but they are much less expensive that what you were quoted for the old style pins. I don't know what your background is, but FWIW, I've had 2 different careers that required frequent use of soldering skills, and I've resisted using crimp terminal subD connectors because of their expense, compared to the solder kind. However, when I started wiring my plane, my time/$ scale got tipped a lot in a hurry. Looks like you have plenty of slack in the wiring. I'd spend $35 for a crimp tool and probably less than $75 for all the shells & pins needed to do everything. Make yourself a crossover diagram from the old connector to the new subD (with extra pins available in the selected connector), clip, strip, crimp, insert. Repeat. I suspect you'll save yourself at least an upper GI scope, if not a heart valve replacement. :-) I would suggest marking each shell with the 1st & last pin number on each side (avoid 3row styles if you can, for convenience). The shells are marked, but old eyes need bright light & a magnifying glass to read them, and Male & Female mirror each other so it's really easy to get turned around. I still do, and I've been building cables with them for over 40 years. Charlie On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts > store. A couple I bought have 6 different types or styles of release tools > on one central block. > > Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be > extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It > takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole > and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and > aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model > builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing. > > > On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > Bob, > Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from > Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins > and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer. > It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and > now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not > have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in > the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built > around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I > would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to > recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like > Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each. > Of course I'll take care of the postage each way. > Thanks for any help you can give me. > Larry Mac Donald > > Thanks Bob, > If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. > Larry > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > Bob, > There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. > Larry > > > Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger > connectors is pretty easy if you have the > punches for d-sub holes. I do have those. > I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s) > properly punched, in a few minutes. > > I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many > wires. I've probably got what you need in > crimped housings and pins to do the job. > Got a tool I could loan you too. > Bob . . . > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Wall Street Daily* > Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56f6a925a152329245007st04duc> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56f6a925a152329245007st04duc > > /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/4gxYSUNDX1BST0ZJTEUAAQEAAAxITGlubwIQAABtbnRyUkdC IFhZWiAHzgACAAkABgAxAABhY3NwTVNGVAAAAABJRUMgc1JHQgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA9tYAAQAA AADTLUhQICAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABFj cHJ0AAABUAAAADNkZXNjAAABhAAAAGx3dHB0AAAB8AAAABRia3B0AAACBAAAABRyWFlaAAACGAAA ABRnWFlaAAACLAAAABRiWFlaAAACQAAAABRkbW5kAAACVAAAAHBkbWRkAAACxAAAAIh2dWVkAAAD TAAAAIZ2aWV3AAAD1AAAACRsdW1pAAAD+AAAABRtZWFzAAAEDAAAACR0ZWNoAAAEMAAAAAxyVFJD AAAEPAAACAxnVFJDAAAEPAAACAxiVFJDAAAEPAAACAx0ZXh0AAAAAENvcHlyaWdodCAoYykgMTk5 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0bb9rbXbHdjzoVfH/AQazhL/AGeL9PzO9xvOqv7v5Ht1FFFdZ4oUUUUAFFFFAH//2Q= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Lyle, If you take Bob up on his offer of new plates punched for subD connectors, I don't think you'll be able to use the existing pins. Hard to know from just looking at a pic, but it's unlikely they will fit a subD housing (especially if Stein's extractor tool doesn't work). The standard size subD pins are not cheap, but they are much less expensive that what you were quoted for the old style pins. I don't know what your background is, but FWIW, I've had 2 different careers that required frequent use of soldering skills, and I've resisted using crimp terminal subD connectors because of their expense, compared to the solder kind. However, when I started wiring my plane, my time/$ scale got tipped a lot in a hurry. Looks like you have plenty of slack in the wiring. I'd spend $35 for a crimp tool and probably less than $75 for all the shells & pins needed to do everything. Make yourself a crossover diagram from the old connector to the new subD (with extra pins available in the selected connector), clip, strip, crimp, insert. Repeat. I suspect you'll save yourself at least an upper GI scope, if not a heart valve replacement. :-) I would suggest marking each shell with the 1st & last pin number on each side (avoid 3row styles if you can, for convenience). The shells are marked, but old eyes need bright light & a magnifying glass to read them, and Male & Female mirror each other so it's really easy to get turned around. I still do, and I've been building cables with them for over 40 years. Charlie On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote: > There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts > store. A couple I bought have 6 different types or styles of release tools > on one central block. > > Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be > extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It > takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole > and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and > aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model > builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing. > > > On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote: > > Bob, > Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from > Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins > and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer. > It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and > now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not > have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in > the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built > around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I > would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to > recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like > Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each. > Of course I'll take care of the postage each way. > Thanks for any help you can give me. > Larry Mac Donald > > Thanks Bob, > If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. > Larry > On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > Bob, > There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. > Larry > > > Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger > connectors is pretty easy if you have the > punches for d-sub holes. I do have those. > I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s) > properly punched, in a few minutes. > > I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many > wires. I've probably got what you need in > crimped housings and pins to do the job. > Got a tool I could loan you too. > Bob . . . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
Subject: fused or not
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
i am mounting my capacitor about 3 inches from the main bus.i planned on connecting straight to the bus main lug with #12 wire and no fuse. should i fuse the cap. for 3'' run? bob noffs ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
On 3/26/2016 7:20 PM, bob noffs wrote: > i am mounting my capacitor about 3 inches from the main bus.i planned > on connecting straight to the bus main lug with #12 wire and no fuse. > should i fuse the cap. for 3'' run? > bob noffs Context? If this is a filter capacitor for a dynamo alternator, shouldn't be a problem. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2016
12awg seems way too big. There is not much danger for a 3" wire shorting out. But capacitors have been known to short, not likely but possible. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454201#454201 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Haven't been ignoring you guys . . .
The prairie grass around our little community has be victim of what may be the largest fire in state history . . . burning 400K plus acres, some houses, livestock and $millions$ in fences. We've been sidetracked with attention to EMS services and logistics support for 250 or so fire fighters from all over the state. Part of my activities over the last week included bringing wet towels home to run through our own laundry before the next crew came into the old high school gym for a shower and sleep. Here's a peek into what's been going on around here . . . http://tinyurl.com/jqcgrpg My city of Medicine Lodge was never in danger but a lot of communities around us were . . . along with dozens of rural residences and their businesses. The nation is responding in amazing ways . . . we're getting donations of hay for cattle from as far away as Houston and Northern Minn. Met some people today who packed up donations in their minivan and drove three hours to unload contributions at the local assistance staging center. One rancher 3 hours northwest of here volunteered to come get herds of cattle at his expense and transport them to his pastures until the 'homeland' could be restored. My EMS radio scans local fire and law enforcement frequencies so I've been able to maintain something of a bird's eye view things as they unfold and I'm amazed. I'm listening to crews struggling over some exceedingly unfriendly terrain . . . Gyp Hills in autumn making sure this fire is COLD . . . crews from all over the state. It may be another week or so before we're back on the normal track . . . our EMS teacher canceled classes due to his own commitments to fire fighting in the county to the west. The best thing is that nobody has been seriously hurt. Did one ambulance run out to the Gyp Hills Wednesday to assist a firefighter with breathing difficulty . . . by the time we got out there he had walked off. I'm presuming he is okay. Wish all our calls could resolve so simply! Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: fused or not
At 07:20 PM 3/26/2016, you wrote: >i am mounting my capacitor about 3 inches from >the main bus.i planned on connecting straight to >the bus main lug with #12 wire and no fuse. should i fuse the cap. for 3'' run? >=C2 bob noffs No . . . that wire is not at-risk for generating any smoke or burning of other wires. No would a fuse prevent the very rare condition where the capacitor goes bad, swells up, smells bad and sometimes bursts . . . the things should be on your periodic replacement list . . . say every 5 years or so. Also consider experiments to see if the capacitor is necessary/useful. I've not been able to measure any operational utility beyond helping us get some PM alternator/rectifiers to self-excite. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
thanks guys for the info. i am told it is to keep noise out of the ecu. bob noffs On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 7:20 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 07:20 PM 3/26/2016, you wrote: > > i am mounting my capacitor about 3 inches from the main bus.i planned on > connecting straight to the bus main lug with #12 wire and no fuse. should i > fuse the cap. for 3'' run? > =C3=82 bob noffs > > > No . . . that wire is not at-risk for > generating any smoke or burning of > other wires. No would a fuse prevent > the very rare condition where the capacitor > goes bad, swells up, smells bad and sometimes > bursts . . . the things should be on your > periodic replacement list . . . say every > 5 years or so. > > Also consider experiments to see if the > capacitor is necessary/useful. I've not been > able to measure any operational utility beyond > helping us get some PM alternator/rectifiers > to self-excite. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
i guess i don't really know how much a cap. pulls initially. i am sure somewhere i saw a schematic using 12 ga. if this is overkill what is recommended for a 10000uf? bob On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 9:59 PM, user9253 wrote: > > 12awg seems way too big. > There is not much danger for a 3" wire shorting out. But capacitors have > been known to short, not likely but possible. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454201#454201 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2016
I do know what wire size to use for a 10000uf capacitor. But a capacitor only draws lots of current when it is first energized. And that is for such a short time (less than a second) that the wire does not even begin to warm up. A wild guess would be to use 18 awg. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will answer. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454211#454211 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer
>[] > Larry, thanks for the picture. That is NOT a d-sub connector. That series of connectors started life in avionics back in the 60s as "Winchester" connectors and eventually picked up by AMP. Originally solder-only they morphed into their "M" series connectors with removable crimp pins. See http://tinyurl.com/hu5wdpj Those use the Series II pins and I think the extraction too looks like this [] http://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco%20Amp%20Photos/305183.jpg I need to do some more catalog surfing to make sure we get you the right parts but I've got a living room full of grandkids who are going to want to search for Easter eggs when they wake up . . . this year's hunt will have to be inside I think . . . it SNOWED last night. Refresh my memory, do you need to replace one or more of these connectors or just de-pin them for re-installation? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2016
FWIW I agree if there is no battery in the circuit. If there is a battery then my advice would be to forget the capacitor. I've run for many years without a capacitor with a 20 amp PM alternator and a small battery. I've run many different ecu based electronic devices (homemade and commercial) without a problem and without any evidence that a capacitor would add any value. Even running my ignition off that system makes no practical difference. Who needs extra parts and extra maintenance issues. Lots of urban legend involved with the use of this large capacitor from what I can tell. I'm not saying the battery replaces the capacitor, I'm just saying that I've no experience running without a battery. Ken On 27/03/2016 9:05 AM, user9253 wrote: > > I do know what wire size to use for a 10000uf capacitor. But a capacitor only draws lots of current when it is first energized. And that is for such a short time (less than a second) that the wire does not even begin to warm up. A wild guess would be to use 18 awg. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will answer. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454211#454211 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Charlie I didn't get your revised drawing. Will you please re-post it? Thanks Carlos Enviado do meu iPhone No dia 26/03/2016, =C3-s 16:53, Charlie England esc reveu: > Thanks, Joe; responses inserted below. > >> On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 11:48 AM, user9253 wrote: >> >> If both alternators are online at the same time, >> over voltage on one alternator could cause both >> over-voltage modules to short and trip their breakers. > You're right, of course. Looks like the only option would be to diode isol ate the alts outputs from each other, and do OV detection behind the diodes. Unfortunately, that induces up to .45V drop, even with Schottky diodes. Mig ht be able to get away with that & still charge the battery properly; might n ot. Would be nice to be able to adjust an internally regulated alternator's o utput... >> >> Considering that many modern avionics can operate >> between 12 and 30 volts, automatic over-voltage >> protection might not be necessary. The battery might >> resist voltage rise for a minute until the pilot reacts to >> the EFIS high voltage warning and shuts off the alternator. > True, but I'd prefer not to depend on my reaction time if the event comes d uring at high workload time. Will keep that option in mind. >> >> There is no automatic switch over to alternator 2 because >> that bottom relay will never drop out while the main bus >> is hot unless alternator 1 breaker is pulled or tripped. > Correct. I've been focused entirely on OV events, and neglected the *under *voltage possibility. Perhaps I can live with that; with undervoltage alerts from the EFIS and battery capacity, I should have a longer safe response wi ndow. >> >> The bottom relay will have to be able to handle full main- >> switch #2 current because very little will flow through >> the diode. The relay contacts short out the diode. > Correct, and I noticed that as I was typing the 1st email. I think I menti oned an omitted 2nd diode. > I've attached a revised drawing with the additional diode, and the NC rela y in the correct position. I also added a fuse link to the feed line for th e auto-transfer supply, for wire protection. Consider the auto-transfer comp onents below the 'hash' line as optional, but desirable to me. > > As drawn, I should be able to pull alt1's CB, close alt2's main supply swi tch, and start the engine. (Start control not included in the drawing.) Afte r engine start, verify 14V from alt2, then close alt1's main supply switch, o pen alt2's supply switch, and close alt1's CB. Then verify 14V from alt1. > > As mentioned in a previous email, I'm not crazy about resetting the CB eve ry flight, but CB specs seem to indicate ~2500 cycle life for pullable CBs, s o it might get the same treatment as Bob's 'battery rotation' concept and be replaced at every 4th or 5th annual. (Even that would be overkill for me; I don't fly that often.) > > An OV fault should bring alt2 online automatically, and I'll add detection to the auto-transfer relay to get notification if it activates alt2. > I'll depend on the EFIS for under-voltage notification and bring alt2 onli ne manually by pulling alt1's CB (would also remove any potential load cause d by the defective alt1). > > Still not locked-in to using the 50A switches, but am still leaning that w ay. Should have drawn the fuse links in this revision, but forgot. Won't for get to install them, though. :-) > > Thanks again, Joe. Any more thoughts, anyone? > > Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Subject: Re: fused or not
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
well........one failure mode of an engine with elec pumps etc. is alternator power only. whether or not i ever need the cap. is another issue but it was recommended i use one. this is for the honda/viking 110 installation. bob On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 8:39 AM, C&K wrote: > > FWIW I agree if there is no battery in the circuit. > > If there is a battery then my advice would be to forget the capacitor. > I've run for many years without a capacitor with a 20 amp PM alternator > and a small battery. I've run many different ecu based electronic devices > (homemade and commercial) without a problem and without any evidence that a > capacitor would add any value. Even running my ignition off that system > makes no practical difference. Who needs extra parts and extra maintenance > issues. Lots of urban legend involved with the use of this large capacitor > from what I can tell. I'm not saying the battery replaces the capacitor, > I'm just saying that I've no experience running without a battery. > > Ken > > > On 27/03/2016 9:05 AM, user9253 wrote: > >> >> I do know what wire size to use for a 10000uf capacitor. But a capacitor >> only draws lots of current when it is first energized. And that is for >> such a short time (less than a second) that the wire does not even begin to >> warm up. A wild guess would be to use 18 awg. Maybe someone more >> knowledgeable will answer. >> >> -------- >> Joe Gores >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454211#454211 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Here is a schematic for you Charlie -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454223#454223 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/charlie_457.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/charlie_142.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: fused or not
At 08:05 AM 3/27/2016, you wrote: > >I do know what wire size to use for a 10000uf capacitor. But a >capacitor only draws lots of current when it is first >energized. And that is for such a short time (less than a second) >that the wire does not even begin to warm up. A wild guess would be >to use 18 awg. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will answer. that short of run would be fine with 22AWG but most of the TC world uses 20AWG minimum under the cowl just for mechanical robustness. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: fused or not
At 07:33 AM 3/27/2016, you wrote: >thanks guys for the info. i am told it is to keep noise out of the ecu. >=C2 bob noffs That IS the legacy rationale for adding such things and it's a deeply rooted idea did a failure analysis on a modern, 100A alternator that came equipped from the factory with a 680uF electrolytic capacitor mounted right to the back of the alternator. Emacs! I am quite certain that noise from this alternator on EMC laboratory equipment would not be materially reduced for having added the capacitor. I'd LOVE to see an EMC test report that illuminates the 'benefit'. I just purchased a spectrum analyzer that sweeps down to 1Hz and up to 2.4 Ghz. When I begin development testing on the next generation of PM alternator rectifier/regulators for B&C I will quantify the value of adding this component to our airplanes. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
If both alternators are online at the same time, over voltage on one alternator could cause both over-voltage modules to short and trip their breakers. The B&C LR/LS series regulators are fitted with circuits to identify WHICH of two regulators is causing the OV condition. If a regulator is working right, the OV condition drives the field output votlage to zero . . . and OV trip for THAT regulator is inhibited. Hence, only the regulator with a runaway field output is allowed to exercise its circuit breaker. Considering that many modern avionics can operate between 12 and 30 volts, automatic over-voltage protection might not be necessary.=C2 The battery might resist voltage rise for a minute until the pilot reacts to the EFIS high voltage warning and shuts off the alternator. We'd never be allowed to field such a system in TC aircraft. Given that it's so easy to deal with the dual alternator situation, there's no reason to loose much sleep over it. If you've installed two, bare-footed crowbar ov modules, then yes, you'd get a dual trip if both alternators are ON . . . then turn them back on one at a time . . . no big deal. If one alternator is a stand-by and OFF for normal ops, then only the operating alternator's ov protection would operate making diagnostics simpler yet. As drawn, I should be able to pull alt1's CB, close alt2's main supply switch, and start the engine. (Start control not included in the drawing.) After engine start, verify 14V from alt2, then close alt1's main supply switch, open alt2's supply switch, and close alt1's CB. Then verify 14V from alt1. Anytime somebody uses the word 'automatically', my little red head-flags go up. One should first identify the risk for allowing some otherwise automated condition to proceed while awaiting pilot notice and action. For example, suppose you had two, independently controlled alternators driving the same bus structure with one alternator held in reserve by keeping it's field supply open. When the first alternator craps, you get a low voltage warning light . . . if you've done due diligence with respect to your battery, you can finish your coffee, fold and stow a map and then bring the standby alternator on line while taxing your stored battery energy to perhaps 1% of total. In other words, what is the value of adding lots the bells, whistles, diodes, relays, etc. etc? System MTBF is inversely proportional to parts count . . . a part that is NOT installed will NOT be the part that caused you to drag out a toolbox. Do your FMEA study guys . . . and evaluate risk to comfortable completion of flight before you complicate the system. As a general rule, there is little or no value added to OBAM aircraft systems for having incorporated 'automatic' features so popular with the purveyors of push-button systems over the counters at OSH. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
At 05:27 PM 3/25/2016, you wrote: >Greetings, > >I need a sanity check on my current thoughts for >the charging circuit in my RV-7. > >Please note that this is *not* a typical Lyc >installation, so many of the assumed requirements/limits do not apply.=C2 > >Engine: Mazda Renesis automotive conversion with total electrical dependency. > >Alternator(s): 2 ea identical ND internally >regulated alternators, each rated at 60 amps. >(This choice was driven by both budget >constraints and simplicity of installation) > >My goals/choices are: >1. 'Unlimited' availability of electrical power, >to avoid in-route diversion in the case of >alternator failure. I accept a single >battery,due to the very small likelihood of >battery failure. Fuel will easily outlast any >but very big/heavy batteries. A PC680 is good >for only ~45 minutes with only the engine >consuming electrons; much less time with avionics on line. > >2.Redundant paths of power to the buss, due to >the engine's total dependence on electricity.=C2 > >3. Ability to check both alternators for proper operation before flight. Take a peek at this drawing http://tinyurl.com/zpww8ag and see if it doesn't do what you want. All engine stuff runs off battery bus. E-bus has dual feeds one of which mitigates loss of battery contactor. S/B alternator feeds battery directly which also goes to mitigating loss of battery contactor. Simple controls with no hazard to system for having more than one alternator active. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2016
On 3/27/2016 3:30 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 05:27 PM 3/25/2016, you wrote: >> Greetings, >> >> I need a sanity check on my current thoughts for the charging circuit >> in my RV-7. >> >> Please note that this is *not* a typical Lyc installation, so many of >> the assumed requirements/limits do not apply. >> >> Engine: Mazda Renesis automotive conversion with total electrical >> dependency. >> >> Alternator(s): 2 ea identical ND internally regulated alternators, >> each rated at 60 amps. >> (This choice was driven by both budget constraints and simplicity of >> installation) >> >> My goals/choices are: >> 1. 'Unlimited' availability of electrical power, to avoid in-route >> diversion in the case of alternator failure. I accept a single >> battery,due to the very small likelihood of battery failure. Fuel >> will easily outlast any but very big/heavy batteries. A PC680 is good >> for only ~45 minutes with only the engine consuming electrons; much >> less time with avionics on line. >> >> 2.Redundant paths of power to the buss, due to the engine's total >> dependence on electricity. >> >> 3. Ability to check both alternators for proper operation before flight. > > Take a peek at this drawing > > http://tinyurl.com/zpww8ag > > <http://tinyurl.com/zpww8ag> and see if it doesn't do what you want. > > All engine stuff runs off battery bus. E-bus has dual > feeds one of which mitigates loss of battery contactor. > S/B alternator feeds battery directly which also > goes to mitigating loss of battery contactor. Simple > controls with no hazard to system for having more than > one alternator active. > > > Bob . . . > Looks good, but do I need multiple busses, when I'll be running 2 identical alternators? The auto conversion engine has the advantage that I'm not restricted to a vacuum pad mount for the 2nd alt, like a Lyc would be. So the entire aircraft's electrical loads can be supported by either alternator. I'd prefer internally regulated alternators, as well. I've followed others' issues with them in the past, but I've used them on my RV-4's for years and I'm comfortable with them. I won't be 'load dumping' unless the alternator has already failed. My only real concern would be pre-flight testing of both alternators. My hope would be engine start with only the backup alternator on line, check for proper operation, then take the backup off line (while operating at low power) and bring the primary on line to verify its operation. Do you see any issues with this? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
Looks good, but do I need multiple busses, when I'll be running 2 identical alternators? Not sure what you mean . . . eliminate the e-bus? Sure, you can do that. The auto conversion engine has the advantage that I'm not restricted to a vacuum pad mount for the 2nd alt, like a Lyc would be. So the entire aircraft's electrical loads can be supported by either alternator. Understand. The drawing as submitted supports that requirement. I'd prefer internally regulated alternators, as well. I've followed others' issues with them in the past, but I've used them on my RV-4's for years and I'm comfortable with them. I won't be 'load dumping' unless the alternator has already failed. That's what I have illustrated . . . Load dumping damage is a will-o-the-whisp that arose from the smoke with alternators popular in the RV crowd many years ago. I think those were some product offered by Van's. Read the chapter on alternators for a description of how ANY alternator remanufactured by ANY reputable shop demonstrates MULTIPLE max rpm, max load, max temperature load dumps. My only real concern would be pre-flight testing of both alternators. You can do that. In fact, the airplane can be routinely flown on either alternator. My hope would be engine start with only the backup alternator on line, check for proper operation, then take the backup off line (while operating at low power) and bring the primary on line to verify its operation. That or any other combination of switch-flips are equally valid . . . I've revised the drawing to eliminate the e-bus. You still want to connect the s/b alternator directly to the battery so that shutting down the DC PWR MASTER gets the electrical system max-cold . . . for smoke in the cockpit events. See http://tinyurl.com/zm46jzm Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2016
One bus is OK, but consider: Is it possible for that bus to lose power? If it does lose power, what are the symptoms? If loads critical to flight safety get power from that bus, what is the backup plan? Having two alternators does not necessarily mean that the main power bus will not lose power. It all depends on how the aircraft is wired. The ignition and fuel pump of an electrically dependent engine should be powered directly from the battery. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454238#454238 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
At 06:21 PM 3/27/2016, you wrote: > >One bus is OK, but consider: >Is it possible for that bus to lose power? >If it does lose power, what are the symptoms? >If loads critical to flight safety get power from >that bus, what is the backup plan? >Having two alternators does not necessarily mean that the >main power bus will not lose power. It all depends on how >the aircraft is wired. >The ignition and fuel pump of an electrically dependent >engine should be powered directly from the battery. As a general rule, the reliability of a well crafted bus structure is as robust as prop-bolts. The reason for multiple busses in the z-figures speaks efficient utilization of a limited resource . . . in the case of Z-11, batty only flight. In the case of Z-13/8, limits of output on an 8A PM alternator. In the case of electrically dependent engines, running all the engine stuff from the battery bus keeps the fan blowing with all other electrical system shut down. Z-12 is illustrative of bus structure on thousands of TC aircraft flying an SD-20 s/b alternator. One battery, two alternators, one bus . . . oh yeah, they DO have an avionics bus but those don't count . . . they serve no practical or necessary energy management purpose. In no instance was a bus added to 'back up' another bus. It's existence facilitates partitioning energy delivery onto narrowly defined tasks under specific circumstances. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2016
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
snipped The auto conversion engine has the advantage that I'm not restricted to a vacuum pad mount for the 2nd alt, like a Lyc would be. So the entire aircraft's electrical loads can be supported by either alternator. snipped Are both these alternators going to be belt driven? If so, when one belt breaks, it often fouls the belt for the second alternator and causes it to jump off it's pulleys. Thus, a single belt failure can disable BOTH alternators. Bob's been designing this stuff for over 30 years. How much time/thought did you put into your design? In a failure of all the power generating sources [alternators/dynamos/generators] it would behoove you to have an essential bus, to rapidly shed unneeded power. Also consider a smaller, secondary battery, to power this bus. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
> >Are both these alternators going to be belt driven? If so, when one >belt breaks, it often fouls the belt for the second alternator and >causes it to jump off it's pulleys. Thus, a single belt failure can >disable BOTH alternators. Excellent question . . . if this is a high-risk event irrespective of probability, then replacing the belt every 100 hrs or so seems prudent. Also, use Gates belts if you can get 'em . . . Plan B might include a detailed load analysis after having shed all non-essential loads while maintaining battery capacity at useful endurance levels. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
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From: DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Subject: How do I stop audio hash noise generated by a new set
of NavStrobes?
Date: Mar 27, 2016
Hello, Bob, and all you AeroElectric forum participants. This is the first time Ive posted in years, but Ive got a problem I cant solve. At Oshkosh 2015 I bought a set of the NavStrob LED nav/position light units. They directly replace the red and green wingtip nave bulbs, and the white rear position light. I cleaned out the sockets for all three locations and sprayed them with CorrosionX. Then inserted the NavStrobe units. When you turn on the Nav light switch once, all three burn with a steady light. Flip them off, and turn on again, and they flash like strobes. Slick. But, in my 1975 172L, when we turn on the COM radios, then turn on the strobes, there is a very unpleasant hash noise when the VOX gate opens as when you speak or a transmission comes in from someone else. The designer of the NavStrobe unit suggests cleaning all the light sockets again. And if that doesnt get rid of the hash noise (and it didnt) install a choke coil. So, any suggestions? And what size or type of choke should I buy and where do I install it? All suggestions welcome. Dee Whittington ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: How do I stop audio hash noise generated by a new
set of NavStrobes?
Date: Mar 27, 2016
It could possibly be ground noise. What is the wiring configuration for your nav lights and intercom? --Daniel > On Mar 27, 2016, at 9:52 PM, DeWitt Whittington wrote: > > > Hello, Bob, and all you AeroElectric forum participants. This is the first time Ive posted in years, but Ive got a problem I cant solve. At Oshkosh 2015 I bought a set of the NavStrob LED nav/position light units. They directly replace the red and green wingtip nave bulbs, and the white rear position light. I cleaned out the sockets for all three locations and sprayed them with CorrosionX. Then inserted the NavStrobe units. When you turn on the Nav light switch once, all three burn with a steady light. Flip them off, and turn on again, and they flash like strobes. Slick. But, in my 1975 172L, when we turn on the COM radios, then turn on the strobes, there is a very unpleasant hash noise when the VOX gate opens as when you speak or a transmission comes in from someone else. > > The designer of the NavStrobe unit suggests cleaning all the light sockets again. And if that doesnt get rid of the hash noise (and it didnt) install a choke coil. > > So, any suggestions? And what size or type of choke should I buy and where do I install it? All suggestions welcome. > > Dee Whittington > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Verwey <bob.verwey(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Subject: fused or not...now keeping noise out..do caps work?
Bob, In the same vein... After having a new intercom fitted in my radio stack, I have developed a serious amount of radio noise as soon as the rpm's hit the 2000 mark. The sq button has no effect on the severity of this noise. It is as if a source is transmitting to the radio! I am told that adding a 22000 microfarad cap across the power feed to the radios will solve this problem. What says the brains trust? On 27 March 2016 at 19:39, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 07:33 AM 3/27/2016, you wrote: > > thanks guys for the info. i am told it is to keep noise out of the ecu. > =C3=82 bob noffs > > > That IS the legacy rationale for adding such things > and it's a deeply rooted idea did > a failure analysis on a modern, 100A alternator > that came equipped from the factory with a 680uF > electrolytic capacitor mounted right to the back > of the alternator. > > > [image: Emacs!] > > I am quite certain that noise from this alternator on > EMC laboratory equipment would not be materially > reduced for having added the capacitor. I'd > LOVE to see an EMC test report that illuminates > the 'benefit'. > > I just purchased a spectrum analyzer that sweeps > down to 1Hz and up to 2.4 Ghz. When I begin > development testing on the next generation of > PM alternator rectifier/regulators for B&C I will > quantify the value of adding this component > to our airplanes. > > > Bob . . . > -- Best... Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fused or not...now keeping noise out..do caps work?
From: rich.ulmen(at)gmail.com
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Is that the actual size of the capacitor for that application? Rich Ulmen > On Mar 28, 2016, at 1:38 AM, Bob Verwey wrote: > > Bob, > In the same vein... > After having a new intercom fitted in my radio stack, I have developed a s erious amount of radio noise as soon as the rpm's hit the 2000 mark. The sq b utton has no effect on the severity of this noise. It is as if a source is t ransmitting to the radio! > > I am told that adding a 22000 microfarad cap across the power feed to the r adios will solve this problem. > > What says the brains trust? > > > >> On 27 March 2016 at 19:39, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec tric.com> wrote: >> At 07:33 AM 3/27/2016, you wrote: >>> thanks guys for the info. i am told it is to keep noise out of the ecu. >>> =C3=82 bob noffs >> >> That IS the legacy rationale for adding such things >> and it's a deeply rooted idea did >> a failure analysis on a modern, 100A alternator >> that came equipped from the factory with a 680uF >> electrolytic capacitor mounted right to the back >> of the alternator. >> >> >> <15a1d98e.jpg> >> >> I am quite certain that noise from this alternator on >> EMC laboratory equipment would not be materially >> reduced for having added the capacitor. I'd >> LOVE to see an EMC test report that illuminates >> the 'benefit'. >> >> I just purchased a spectrum analyzer that sweeps >> down to 1Hz and up to 2.4 Ghz. When I begin >> development testing on the next generation of >> PM alternator rectifier/regulators for B&C I will >> quantify the value of adding this component >> to our airplanes. >> >> >> >> Bob . . . >> > > > > -- > Best... > Bob Verwey > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Subject: Re: fused or not...now keeping noise out..do caps work?
From: Bob Verwey <bob.verwey(at)gmail.com>
Rich, this is what was recommended by the avionics shop On Monday, March 28, 2016, wrote: > Is that the actual size of the capacitor for that application? > > Rich Ulmen > > > On Mar 28, 2016, at 1:38 AM, Bob Verwey > wrote: > > Bob, > In the same vein... > After having a new intercom fitted in my radio stack, I have developed a > serious amount of radio noise as soon as the rpm's hit the 2000 mark. The > sq button has no effect on the severity of this noise. It is as if a sour ce > is transmitting to the radio! > > I am told that adding a 22000 microfarad cap across the power feed to the > radios will solve this problem. > > What says the brains trust? > > > On 27 March 2016 at 19:39, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com > > wrote: > >> At 07:33 AM 3/27/2016, you wrote: >> >> thanks guys for the info. i am told it is to keep noise out of the ecu. >> =C3=82 bob noffs >> >> >> That IS the legacy rationale for adding such things >> and it's a deeply rooted idea did >> a failure analysis on a modern, 100A alternator >> that came equipped from the factory with a 680uF >> electrolytic capacitor mounted right to the back >> of the alternator. >> >> >> <15a1d98e.jpg> >> >> I am quite certain that noise from this alternator on >> EMC laboratory equipment would not be materially >> reduced for having added the capacitor. I'd >> LOVE to see an EMC test report that illuminates >> the 'benefit'. >> >> I just purchased a spectrum analyzer that sweeps >> down to 1Hz and up to 2.4 Ghz. When I begin >> development testing on the next generation of >> PM alternator rectifier/regulators for B&C I will >> quantify the value of adding this component >> to our airplanes. >> >> >> >> Bob . . . >> > > > -- > Best... > Bob Verwey > > -- Best... Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Subject: another switch question
I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would the typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? See attached pic. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: another switch question
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Just a guessground out one of the mags? Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Ryan Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 4:13 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would the typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? See attached pic. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net>
Date: Mar 28, 2016
To remove power from anything not needed while cranking the engine. On 3/28/2016 6:36 PM, Rene wrote: > > Just a guessground out one of the mags? > > Rene' > > 801-721-6080 > > *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *Ken Ryan > *Sent:* Monday, March 28, 2016 4:13 PM > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: another switch question > > I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. > It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the > terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how > the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor > relay, but what would the typical use be for the normally closed > terminals on an engine start switch? See attached pic. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2016
This looks like the 'Steinair' switch they sell, (which I'm keen on using on our -9a build) the connectors look like 1/8inch wide, are 'fast-on' PIDG connectors available, or should one solder. Regards John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454284#454284 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2016
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: another switch question
Hi Ken; That's a mighty rugged looking switch! I think the normally closed contacts =C2-would normally=C2-be used to turn off (temporarily) anything you di dn't want running while engaging the starter. Cheers!=C2-=C2- Stu. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:12:39 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It i s a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminal s are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally op en terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would t he typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start swit ch? See attached pic. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2016
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: another switch question
Hi Ken; I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. Cheers!=C2-=C2- Stu. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:12:39 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It i s a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminal s are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally op en terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would t he typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start swit ch? See attached pic. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2016
Subject: Re: another switch question
It's made by Elewind. Here's a link: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ELEWIND-22mm-1NO1NC-Momentary-push-button-With-ENGINE-START-symbol-PM221F-11-S-With-ENGINE-START/737142_1719523504.html On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 6:59 PM, wrote: > Hi Ken; > I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. > Cheers! Stu. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
I don't know if the manufacturer would have anything to add, this is obvious ly an automotive based switch so what the NC contacts would be used for in a modern car is anyone's guess - and the advert states the contacts are rated 2-5 amps John Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 29 Mar 2016, at 03:59 am, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote: > > Hi Ken; > I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. > Cheers! Stu. > > From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:12:39 PM > Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question > > I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It i s a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would the t ypical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? S ee attached pic. > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D _ 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
http://www.steinair.com/storedetail.cfm?productid=668 Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 29 Mar 2016, at 03:59 am, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote: > > Hi Ken; > I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. > Cheers! Stu. > > From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:12:39 PM > Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question > > I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It i s a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would the t ypical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? S ee attached pic. > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D _ 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ARGOLDMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Re: another switch question
My guess is that it is a somewhat standard pushbutton switch back to which the manufacturer attaches a "start" placarded front. Just ignore the nc part. If you really want you can use the NC part to disable other electronics during your start, however you add one more point of failure to a switch of possible questionable reliability.-- With this switch, if it fails, so you can't start your craft (you are probably on the ground at this point) whereas if it fails you may not have use of the electronics that it defeats. It is not unusual to not use parts of a switch or IC Rich Rich In a message dated 3/28/2016 7:57:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net writes: Hi Ken; That's a mighty rugged looking switch! I think the normally closed contacts would normally be used to turn off (temporarily) anything you didn't want running while engaging the starter. Cheers! Stu. ____________________________________ From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:12:39 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: another switch question I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would the typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? See attached pic. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Ring Terminals for Tyco LEV100A4ANG
From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com>
Hello Group I have been looking for terminal lugs for these contactors without much luck. These contactors have terminals that take M5 (0.19") bolts and the smallest holes on a copper lug that I could find are 5/16". To those who have used these contactors, what lugs did you use? Thanks Hari ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charging circuit: Sanity check
Correct. Most automotive products are magnetically 'geared' for full rated output in the 5000 rpm range. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: another switch question
At 05:12 PM 3/28/2016, you wrote: >I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" >switch. It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. >Two of the terminals are normally open, two are normally closed. I >can see how the normally open terminals could be used to drive a >starter motor relay, but what would the typical use be for the >normally closed terminals on an engine start switch? See attached pic. >Content-Type: image/jpeg; name="engine-start-switch.jpg" >Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="engine-start-switch.jpg" >X-Attachment-Id: f_imcjusoz0 I would guess that the n.c. side disconnects accessories not intended to be on the bus during cranking. I think all my cars drop the accessory bus during cranking. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: How do I stop audio hash noise generated by a
new set of NavStrobes? At 09:52 PM 3/27/2016, you wrote: >Whittington > >Hello, Bob, and all you AeroElectric forum >participants. This is the first time I=99ve >posted in years, but I=99ve got a problem I >can=99t solve. At Oshkosh 2015 I bought a set of >the NavStrob LED nav/position light units. They >directly replace the red and green wingtip nave >bulbs, and the white rear position light. I >cleaned out the sockets for all three locations >and sprayed them with CorrosionX. Then inserted >the NavStrobe units. When you turn on the Nav >light switch once, all three burn with a steady >light. Flip them off, and turn on again, and >they flash like strobes. Slick. But, in my 1975 >172L, when we turn on the COM radios, then turn >on the strobes, there is a very unpleasant >=9Chash=9D noise when the VOX gate opens as when >you speak or a transmission comes in from someone else. > >The designer of the NavStrobe unit suggests >cleaning all the light sockets again. And if >that doesn=99t get rid of the hash noise (and it >didn=99t) install a choke coil. > >So, any suggestions? And what size or type of >choke should I buy and where do I install it? All suggestions welcome. Are they ever supposed to flash? These devices SHOULD contain little DC/DC constant current converters that are a special form of switchmode power supply. Some years ago I crafted and sold a filter assembly to accept the DC/DC converter recommended for popular DIY nav light project. I sold several dozens of these assemblies with no complaints/returns so my sense is that they performed as adverstised to stand off the VHF radiated noise from the Luxdrive module. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9051/AEC9051.jpg You MIGHT be experiencing a similar condition. Do I presume correctly that you're working with devices that look like this? Emacs! Kinda cute . . . but not very reassuring from the perspective of design for EMC. Minimized radiation from high frequency power supplies BEGINS with tightly clustered components with short leads to minimize the radio frequency radiation footprint. That sprinkling of parts gives pause for doubts. If your lamps are different, shoot me pictures or links and a link to the installation instructions. We may have to conduct some experiments to identify the noise propagation mode . . . Might have you send me one to bench check. I just bought a spectrum analyzer that would help identify the device's un-neighborly behaviors. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: fused or not...now keeping noise out..do caps
work? At 12:38 AM 3/28/2016, you wrote: >Bob, >In the same vein... >After having a new intercom fitted in my radio stack, I have >developed a serious amount of radio noise as soon as the rpm's hit >the 2000 mark. The sq button has no effect on the severity of this >noise. It is as if a source is transmitting to the radio! > >I am told that adding a 22000 microfarad cap across the power feed >to the radios will solve this problem. Try it and report back. Do you have the capacitor already? If not, I can send you something to try. I'm betting long odds against a successful fix but if that's what the mfgr recommends, we should at least try it. Tell us about your engine/alternator/airplane/radios etc. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Re: another switch question
Thanks guys. I can't see any reason to utilize the NC side in my installation. > I would guess that the n.c. side disconnects > accessories not intended to be on the bus > during cranking. I think all my cars drop > the accessory bus during cranking. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Ring Terminals for Tyco LEV100A4ANG
What size cable are you using? On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:42 AM, Hariharan Gopalan wrote: Hello Group I have been looking for terminal lugs for these contactors without much luc k. These contactors have terminals that take M5 (0.19") bolts and the small est holes on a copper lug that I could find are 5/16". To those who have used these contactors, what lugs did you use? ThanksHari=C2- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: Small diameter coax into standard BNC
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Hi Bob, I am installing a VHF based APRS tracker on the RV7. The kit came with a wimpy antenna not suitable for installing on the outside of the aircraft. Since the APRS out uses 144.XX MHz frequency, I plan on using an old aircraft grade LORAN antenna which is tuned for the same frequency. My question is how to elegantly connect the fine line supplied with the tracker to the BNC of the antenna. The existing feed line is some small diameter I had not anticipated. It's about 1/8" in diameter. Are there BNC made for this (probably are somewhere but I don't really want to wait for an order to come in) or can I make a solder connection between the 1/8" feed line and a short piece of RG400 I have here? Then BNC that as usual. If so, what you recommend this joint look like? Thanks Bevan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Re: Ring Terminals for Tyco LEV100A4ANG
From: Hariharan Gopalan <rdu.hari(at)gmail.com>
#2 and #4 I found a 1/4 lug, but it is still large. Not sure if I can use washers between the terminal and the lug. Thanks Hari On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 11:49 AM, Jeff Luckey wrote: > What size cable are you using? > > > On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:42 AM, Hariharan Gopalan > wrote: > > > Hello Group > > I have been looking for terminal lugs for these contactors without much > luck. These contactors have terminals that take M5 (0.19") bolts and the > smallest holes on a copper lug that I could find are 5/16". > > To those who have used these contactors, what lugs did you use? > > Thanks > Hari > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Ring Terminals for Tyco LEV100A4ANG
At 09:56 AM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >Hello Group > >I have been looking for terminal lugs for these contactors without >much luck. These contactors have terminals that take M5 (0.19") >bolts and the smallest holes on a copper lug that I could find are 5/16". > >To those who have used these contactors, what lugs did you use? Order 3/16 terminals and drill them out to M5 http://tinyurl.com/gsccbm8 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com>
Subject: Re: Small diameter coax into standard BNC
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Is it the AP510? I'm using one of those with a cheap converter like this: http://amzn.to/1TgJ7Ow It doesn't completely meet your needs as far as having to wait for an order, but with their Prime shipping if you order it now, you'll have a backup on t he way in case you don't like the home brewed solutions as of two days from n ow. > On Mar 29, 2016, at 12:35, B Tomm wrote: > > Hi Bob, > > I am installing a VHF based APRS tracker on the RV7. The kit came with a w impy antenna not suitable for installing on the outside of the aircraft. Si nce the APRS out uses 144.XX MHz frequency, I plan on using an old aircraft g rade LORAN antenna which is tuned for the same frequency. > > My question is how to elegantly connect the fine line supplied with the tr acker to the BNC of the antenna. The existing feed line is some small diamet er I had not anticipated. It's about 1/8" in diameter. Are there BNC made f or this (probably are somewhere but I don't really want to wait for an order to come in) or can I make a solder connection between the 1/8" feed line an d a short piece of RG400 I have here? Then BNC that as usual. If so, what y ou recommend this joint look like? > > Thanks > > Bevan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Small diameter coax into standard BNC
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Can you provide a picture or a model number of the tracker you=99re using? > On Mar 29, 2016, at 11:35 AM, B Tomm wrote: > > Hi Bob, > > I am installing a VHF based APRS tracker on the RV7. The kit came with a wimpy antenna not suitable for installing on the outside of the aircraft. Since the APRS out uses 144.XX MHz frequency, I plan on using an old aircraft grade LORAN antenna which is tuned for the same frequency. > > My question is how to elegantly connect the fine line supplied with the tracker to the BNC of the antenna. The existing feed line is some small diameter I had not anticipated. It's about 1/8" in diameter. Are there BNC made for this (probably are somewhere but I don't really want to wait for an order to come in) or can I make a solder connection between the 1/8" feed line and a short piece of RG400 I have here? Then BNC that as usual. If so, what you recommend this joint look like? > > Thanks > > Bevan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: Small diameter coax into standard BNC
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Microtrak RTG from Byonics, see http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg _____ From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Hooper Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 9:59 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Small diameter coax into standard BNC Can you provide a picture or a model number of the tracker you're using? On Mar 29, 2016, at 11:35 AM, B Tomm wrote: Hi Bob, I am installing a VHF based APRS tracker on the RV7. The kit came with a wimpy antenna not suitable for installing on the outside of the aircraft. Since the APRS out uses 144.XX MHz frequency, I plan on using an old aircraft grade LORAN antenna which is tuned for the same frequency. My question is how to elegantly connect the fine line supplied with the tracker to the BNC of the antenna. The existing feed line is some small diameter I had not anticipated. It's about 1/8" in diameter. Are there BNC made for this (probably are somewhere but I don't really want to wait for an order to come in) or can I make a solder connection between the 1/8" feed line and a short piece of RG400 I have here? Then BNC that as usual. If so, what you recommend this joint look like? Thanks Bevan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Small diameter coax into standard BNC
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Could you do an SMA to BNC adapter at the tracker and just hook up there? > On Mar 29, 2016, at 12:47 PM, B Tomm wrote: > > Microtrak RTG from Byonics, see > > http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg > > > > > > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Hooper > Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 9:59 AM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Small diameter coax into standard BNC > > Can you provide a picture or a model number of the tracker you=99r e using? > > >> On Mar 29, 2016, at 11:35 AM, B Tomm > wrote: >> >> Hi Bob, >> >> I am installing a VHF based APRS tracker on the RV7. The kit came with a wimpy antenna not suitable for installing on the outside of the aircraft. Since the APRS out uses 144.XX MHz frequency, I plan on using an old aircraft grade LORAN antenna which is tuned for the same frequency. >> >> My question is how to elegantly connect the fine line supplied with the tracker to the BNC of the antenna. The existing feed line is some small diameter I had not anticipated. It's about 1/8" in diameter. Are there BNC made for this (probably are somewhere but I don't really want to wait for an order to come in) or can I make a solder connection between the 1/8" feed line and a short piece of RG400 I have here? Then BNC that as usual. If so, what you recommend this joint look like? >> >> Thanks >> >> Bevan > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
kenryan wrote: > It's made by Elewind. Here's a link: > > http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ELEWIND-22mm-1NO1NC-Momentary-push-button-With-ENGINE-START-symbol-PM221F-11-S-With-ENGINE-START/737142_1719523504.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ELEWIND-22mm-1NO1NC-Momentary-push-button-With-ENGINE-START-symbol-PM221F-11-S-With-ENGINE-START/737142_1719523504.html) > > > > > On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 6:59 PM, wrote: > > > Hi Ken; > > > > I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. > > Cheers! Stu. > > > > > > > > > > > I have not bought switches from the Elewind company, but I've been using Chinese SS/illuminated switches for years in a product I make. Aside from the robust, functional 'look', there's a huge difference in quality control, mfr to mfr with failure rates of some, over time, as high as 80%. If the aesthetics of the switch are irresistible, then vet the switch company by asking for references for large volume purchasers in the USA for your specific part #. Ask the USA company for switch application and quality control reports for your specific part #. I found a Chinese 'company' with a reasonable failure rate this way. I accept that there will be occasional failures in my non-critical application as a trade-off for pleasing aesthetics, price and feature set. I definitely would not use a Chinese sourced switch in any sort of critical application, and really feel that they have no place in an airplane, if you believe that catastrophes result from a series of bad decisions or small things going wrong. It seems that there are a ton of switch 'companies' in Yueqing all offering the same switches. I suspect that there are a few manufacturers. As this style of switch is offered by US companies (E-Switch, Digikey, Mouser) at 5-8x (or more) the Chinese price, I suspect that large US distributors can demand and get better quality control, but it comes at a price. I can't imagine Digikey tolerating the failure rate that I've seen in some Chinese sources, or even the one that I use, which is pretty low. YMMV John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454329#454329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: <rd2(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: 2 pole connector
Hi all, I need to duplicate this 2-pole interlocking connector used for the battery maintainer, but don't seem to be able to find an exact match. Can anyone help with a P/N, manufacturer ? Thanks Rumen ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
His would you quantify 'Chinese' compared with US quality (control) Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 29 Mar 2016, at 07:17 pm, "jonlaury" wrote: > > > > kenryan wrote: >> It's made by Elewind. Here's a link: >> >> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ELEWIND-22mm-1NO1NC-Momentary-push-button-With-ENGINE-START-symbol-PM221F-11-S-With-ENGINE-START/737142_1719523504.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ELEWIND-22mm-1NO1NC-Momentary-push-button-With-ENGINE-START-symbol-PM221F-11-S-With-ENGINE-START/737142_1719523504.html) >> >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 6:59 PM, wrote: >>> >>> Hi Ken; >>> >>> I would like the mfg. and model number of that switch, please. >>> Cheers! Stu. > > > I have not bought switches from the Elewind company, but I've been using Chinese SS/illuminated switches for years in a product I make. Aside from the robust, functional 'look', there's a huge difference in quality control, mfr to mfr with failure rates of some, over time, as high as 80%. If the aesthetics of the switch are irresistible, then vet the switch company by asking for references for large volume purchasers in the USA for your specific part #. Ask the USA company for switch application and quality control reports for your specific part #. I found a Chinese 'company' with a reasonable failure rate this way. I accept that there will be occasional failures in my non-critical application as a trade-off for pleasing aesthetics, price and feature set. I definitely would not use a Chinese sourced switch in any sort of critical application, and really feel that they have no place in an airplane, if you believe that catastrophes result from a series of bad decisions or sm! > all things going wrong. > It seems that there are a ton of switch 'companies' in Yueqing all offering the same switches. I suspect that there are a few manufacturers. As this style of switch is offered by US companies (E-Switch, Digikey, Mouser) at 5-8x (or more) the Chinese price, I suspect that large US distributors can demand and get better quality control, but it comes at a price. I can't imagine Digikey tolerating the failure rate that I've seen in some Chinese sources, or even the one that I use, which is pretty low. > > YMMV > John > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454329#454329 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: another switch question
From: John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Hi Bob Looking at this switch, it's a double pole changeover style: if used as a si mple (on)-off (ie: momentary push on - to power the starter contactor) is it a good idea to connect the terminals together, or is one pole OK for a stan dard starter contactor John Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 29 Mar 2016, at 04:01 pm, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroe lectric.com> wrote: > > At 05:12 PM 3/28/2016, you wrote: >> I am curious about the function of the pictured "Engine Start" switch. It is a push button switch with four terminals on the back. Two of the termina ls are normally open, two are normally closed. I can see how the normally op en terminals could be used to drive a starter motor relay, but what would th e typical use be for the normally closed terminals on an engine start switch ? See attached pic. >> Content-Type: image/jpeg; name="engine-start-switch.jpg" >> Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="engine-start-switch.jpg" >> X-Attachment-Id: f_imcjusoz0 > > I would guess that the n.c. side disconnects > accessories not intended to be on the bus > during cranking. I think all my cars drop > the accessory bus during cranking. > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ARGOLDMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Re: 2 pole connector
Looks kinda like a molex mate -n-lock. No biggie if you can't find it, just replace both with ones that you can easily get. (see Digi-Key ) Rich In a message dated 3/29/2016 11:21:58 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rd2(at)dejazzd.com writes: Hi all, I need to duplicate this 2-pole interlocking connector used for the battery maintainer, but don't seem to be able to find an exact match. Can anyone help with a P/N, manufacturer ? Thanks Rumen ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 2 pole connector
From: Rick Beebe <rick(at)beebe.org>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
I think it's an AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK connector I think the side with the clips is a TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 1-480698-0 and its mate is TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 1-480699-0 Check page 37 of http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1492314.pdf Newark carries them. --Rick On 03/29/2016 02:18 PM, rd2(at)dejazzd.com wrote: > Hi all, > I need to duplicate this 2-pole interlocking connector used for the battery maintainer, but don't seem to be able to find an exact match. Can anyone help with a P/N, manufacturer ? > Thanks > Rumen > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: <rd2(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: 2 pole connector
Thanks. Looked up molex and amp, couldn't find an exact match. Replacing would be more involved; that's what I was trying to avoid. ---- ARGOLDMAN(at)aol.com wrote: ============ Looks kinda like a molex mate -n-lock. No biggie if you can't find it, just replace both with ones that you can easily get. (see Digi-Key ) Rich In a message dated 3/29/2016 11:21:58 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rd2(at)dejazzd.com writes: Hi all, I need to duplicate this 2-pole interlocking connector used for the battery maintainer, but don't seem to be able to find an exact match. Can anyone help with a P/N, manufacturer ? Thanks Rumen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Coax Cable Connector Question
From: Chris Mullins <mullincl(at)gmail.com>
Coax Cable Connector Question I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. Regarding BNC connectors : "The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. Chris M This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Coax Cable Connector Question
At 02:49 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >Coax Cable Connector Question > >I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. >I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. > >I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in >June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. > >Regarding BNC connectors : >"The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but >good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These >are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in >dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and >i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". > >Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? > >Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. Agree about the 'twist on' connectors . . . UG-88 are good but I've not used one in a new installation in about 40 years. In fact, I think I threw some out about 10 years ago . . . not useless but just a pain in the a## compared to a modern crimp on. See http://tinyurl.com/hulty38 and http://tinyurl.com/j9pdg2p and http://tinyurl.com/j6ghop2 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: 2 pole connector
Date: Mar 29, 2016
. . . Hmmm. . . that is an odd one. . Might be easier to cut it off and connect a new, match pair that is easy to find if needed again. . . ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 11:18 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: 2 pole connector > Hi all, > I need to duplicate this 2-pole interlocking connector used for the > battery maintainer, but don't seem to be able to find an exact match. Can > anyone help with a P/N, manufacturer ? > Thanks > Rumen --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2016
Subject: Re: How do I stop audio hash noise generated by a
new set of NavStrobes? Well, Bob and all, I found the proper answer to my "hash" problem! Take a look at this Aircraft Spruce page: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/navstrobesextant.php?clickke y=1044728 And more importantly, note the statement in bold print: *Latest generation has eliminated radio noise, is brighter, and lasts longer! * Well, looks like Chris Winter, (613) 285-0911, , the inventor and the man I spoke to in person before buying his creation at Oshkosh 2015, has come up with a fix at the same price as the one which has given us nothing but grief. During the past year I've spoken to him twice about the nasty hash in our headset problem which made the unit unusable for us in strobe mode, but never received a call or email indicating he had engineered out the noise. I'll be calling him to see if he can upgrade the set of lights he sold me actually work. By the way, the price has not changed from his noisy LED nav lights to what he now claims don't have the radio noise. Dee DeWitt (Dee) Whittington Richmond, VA 804-677-4849 iPhone 804-358-4333 Home On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 11:22 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 09:52 PM 3/27/2016, you wrote: > > dee.whittington(at)gmail.com> > > Hello, Bob, and all you AeroElectric forum participants. This is the firs t > time I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve posted in years, but I=C3=A2=82=AC =84=A2ve got a problem I can=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t solve. At > Oshkosh 2015 I bought a set of the NavStrob LED nav/position light units. > They directly replace the red and green wingtip nave bulbs, and the white > rear position light. I cleaned out the sockets for all three locations an d > sprayed them with CorrosionX. Then inserted the NavStrobe units. When you > turn on the Nav light switch once, all three burn with a steady light. Fl ip > them off, and turn on again, and they flash like strobes. Slick. But, in my > 1975 172L, when we turn on the COM radios, then turn on the strobes, ther e > is a very unpleasant =C3=A2=82=AC=C5=93hash=C3=A2=82=AC noise when the VOX gate opens as when you > speak or a transmission comes in from someone else. > > The designer of the NavStrobe unit suggests cleaning all the light socket s > again. And if that doesn=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t get rid of the hash noi se (and it didn=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t) > install a choke coil. > > So, any suggestions? And what size or type of choke should I buy and wher e > do I install it? All suggestions welcome. > > > Are they ever supposed to flash? > > These devices SHOULD contain little DC/DC constant > current converters that are a special form of switchmode > power supply. Some years ago I crafted and sold a > filter assembly to accept the DC/DC converter recommended > for popular DIY nav light project. I sold several > dozens of these assemblies with no complaints/returns so > my sense is that they performed as adverstised to > stand off the VHF radiated noise from the Luxdrive > module. > > > [image: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9051/AEC9051.jpg] > > You MIGHT be experiencing a similar condition. > > Do I presume correctly that you're working with devices that look like > this? > > [image: Emacs!] > > Kinda cute . . . but not very reassuring from the perspective > of design for EMC. Minimized radiation from high frequency > power supplies BEGINS with tightly clustered components > with short leads to minimize the radio frequency radiation > footprint. That sprinkling of parts gives pause for doubts. > > If your lamps are different, shoot me pictures or links and > a link to the installation instructions. We may have to > conduct some experiments to identify the noise propagation > mode . . . Might have you send me one to bench check. I just > bought a spectrum analyzer that would help identify the device's > un-neighborly behaviors. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Coax Cable Connector Question
At 02:49 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >Coax Cable Connector Question > >I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. >I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. > >I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in >June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. > >Regarding BNC connectors : >"The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but >good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These >are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in >dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and >i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". > >Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? > >Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. Agree about the 'twist on' connectors . . . UG-88 are good but I've not used one in a new installation in about 40 years. In fact, I think I threw some out about 10 years ago . . . not useless but just a pain in the a## compared to a modern crimp on. See http://tinyurl.com/hulty38 and http://tinyurl.com/j9pdg2p and http://tinyurl.com/j6ghop2 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: How do I stop audio hash noise generated by a
new set of NavStrobes? At 05:07 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >Well, Bob and all, I found the proper answer to >my "hash" problem! Take a look at this Aircraft Spruce page: > >https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/navstrobesextant .php?clickkey=1044728 > >And more importantly, note the statement in bold >print:=C2 Latest generation has eliminated radio >noise, is brighter, and lasts longer!=C2 > >Well, looks like Chris Winter,=C2 (613) 285-0911, ><navstrobe(at)gmail.com>, >the inventor and the man I spoke to in person >before buying his creation at Oshkosh 2015, has >come up with a fix at the same price as the one >which has given us nothing but grief. During the >past year I've spoken to him twice about the >nasty hash in our headset problem which made the >unit=C2 unusable=C2 for us in strobe mode, but never >received a call or email indicating he had >engineered out the noise. I'll be calling him to >see if he can upgrade the set of lights he sold >me actually work. By the way, the price has not >changed from his noisy LED nav lights to what he >now claims don't have the radio noise. Good deal . . . Don't be so much a stranger to the List my friend. I don't think I've seen you since OSH 2007. I've often wondered how things are going in your hangar. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Coax Cable Connector Question
My favorite coax stripper is still available on eBay . . . price is higher but still a bargain for what it accomplishes . . . http://tinyurl.com/zl7lfed A ratchet handle tool with .213 and .068 hex dies is also available http://tinyurl.com/h796fxn Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2016
From: <sam.marlow(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Coax Cable Connector Question
I've wired 5 RV's over the last 10 years without any problem, with the crimp on type! ---- "Robert L. Nuckolls wrote: ============ At 02:49 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >Coax Cable Connector Question > >I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. >I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. > >I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in >June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. > >Regarding BNC connectors : >"The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but >good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These >are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in >dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and >i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". > >Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? > >Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. Agree about the 'twist on' connectors . . . UG-88 are good but I've not used one in a new installation in about 40 years. In fact, I think I threw some out about 10 years ago . . . not useless but just a pain in the a## compared to a modern crimp on. See http://tinyurl.com/hulty38 and http://tinyurl.com/j9pdg2p and http://tinyurl.com/j6ghop2 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/30/16
From: Charles Starkey <cstarkey(at)iinet.net.au>
Date: Mar 31, 2016
Nice, but the seller of the stripper does not ship to Australia and the seller of the crimper "may not ship to Australia"! So much for the Australia - US Free Trade Agreement! > On 31 Mar 2016, at 5:59 PM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server wrote: > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 16-03-30&Archive=AeroElectric > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 16-03-30&Archive=AeroElectric > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > AeroElectric-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Wed 03/30/16: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 06:59 AM - Re: Coax Cable Connector Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) > 2. 11:14 AM - Re: Coax Cable Connector Question () > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coax Cable Connector Question > > My favorite coax stripper is still available > on eBay . . . price is higher but still a bargain > for what it accomplishes . . . > > http://tinyurl.com/zl7lfed > > A ratchet handle tool with .213 and .068 > hex dies is also available > > http://tinyurl.com/h796fxn > > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > From: <sam.marlow(at)roadrunner.com> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coax Cable Connector Question > > > I've wired 5 RV's over the last 10 years without any problem, with the crimp on > type! > > ---- "Robert L. Nuckolls wrote: > > =========== > At 02:49 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >> Coax Cable Connector Question >> >> I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. >> I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. >> >> I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in >> June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. >> >> Regarding BNC connectors : >> "The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but >> good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These >> are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in >> dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and >> i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". >> >> Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? >> >> Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. > > Agree about the 'twist on' connectors . . . > > UG-88 are good but I've not used one in a new installation > in about 40 years. In fact, I think I threw some out about 10 > years ago . . . not useless but just a pain in the a## compared > to a modern crimp on. > > See http://tinyurl.com/hulty38 > > and http://tinyurl.com/j9pdg2p > > and http://tinyurl.com/j6ghop2 > > > Bob . . . > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/30/16
From: Charles Starkey <cstarkey(at)iinet.net.au>
Date: Mar 31, 2016
Nice, but the seller of the stripper does not ship to Australia and the seller of the crimper "may not ship to Australia"! So much for the Australia - US Free Trade Agreement! > On 31 Mar 2016, at 5:59 PM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server wrote: > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 16-03-30&Archive=AeroElectric > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 16-03-30&Archive=AeroElectric > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > AeroElectric-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Wed 03/30/16: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 06:59 AM - Re: Coax Cable Connector Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) > 2. 11:14 AM - Re: Coax Cable Connector Question () > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coax Cable Connector Question > > My favorite coax stripper is still available > on eBay . . . price is higher but still a bargain > for what it accomplishes . . . > > http://tinyurl.com/zl7lfed > > A ratchet handle tool with .213 and .068 > hex dies is also available > > http://tinyurl.com/h796fxn > > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > From: <sam.marlow(at)roadrunner.com> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Coax Cable Connector Question > > > I've wired 5 RV's over the last 10 years without any problem, with the crimp on > type! > > ---- "Robert L. Nuckolls wrote: > > =========== > At 02:49 PM 3/29/2016, you wrote: >> Coax Cable Connector Question >> >> I am currently planning coax routing etc for my ADSB and COM antennae. >> I'd appreciate the groups opinions regarding the best connectors. >> >> I saved the quote below from an AEROlectrics column by Jim Weir in >> June 2015 Kitplanes magazine. >> >> Regarding BNC connectors : >> "The ones that last are not compression (solderless) connectors, but >> good old UG88 (male) and UG89 (female) solder-on connectors. These >> are solder-the-pin-on connectors and have a lifetime measured in >> dozens of years. The solderless connectors are what we call junk and >> i guarantee that within a year or two, they'll give you fits". >> >> Does this opinion reflect the experience of the group? >> >> Thanks to Bob and to you all who participate in this very helpful group. > > Agree about the 'twist on' connectors . . . > > UG-88 are good but I've not used one in a new installation > in about 40 years. In fact, I think I threw some out about 10 > years ago . . . not useless but just a pain in the a## compared > to a modern crimp on. > > See http://tinyurl.com/hulty38 > > and http://tinyurl.com/j9pdg2p > > and http://tinyurl.com/j6ghop2 > > > Bob . . . > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RG
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 31, 2016
Yes. You can google coax specs to confirm -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454385#454385 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/30/16
At 03:04 AM 3/31/2016, you wrote: > > >Nice, but the seller of the stripper does not ship to Australia and >the seller of the crimper "may not ship to Australia"! So much for >the Australia - US Free Trade Agreement! There are dozens of offers on eBay . . . two that I looked at will ship to AUS http://tinyurl.com/hlsdgn7 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Fwd: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring
Date: Mar 31, 2016
> Thank you Stein > > I believe the DYNON servo wires are all unshielded. > Why do you recommend the CAN, the RS-232 and the trim wires to be shielded? > > Best > Carlos > > Enviado do meu iPhone > > No dia 30/03/2016, s 10:39, Stein Bruch escreveu: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" >> >> You would use shielded multi conductor wires for the CAN portion and >> RS-232's (and possibly some trim), but individual wires for the CWS, PWR, >> GND, and CAN termination (if you're using it for the terminator on the CAN). >> >> >> Cheers, >> Stein >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo >> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:21 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo >> >> Guys >> >> Those of you who installed or are installing a GARMIN G3X, which wires or >> multi-wire cable did you use to connect the autopilot servos? >> >> Thanks >> Carlos >> >> Enviado do meu iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2016
Subject: D Sub Crimper Recommendation?
From: Chris Mullins <mullincl(at)gmail.com>
Sounds like the crimp on coax connectors will work well. Possibly Mr Weir was speaking about the twist on variety. Thank you for the tool suggestions! Extremely helpful. Wondering if you have a favorite reasonably priced d sub crimper? Chris M ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: AEC2006 line filter
From: "Jedge" <jim(at)celectron.co.uk>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
As the AEC2006 line filter has been discontinued, I was wondering if the values for the components are available, especially the toroidal choke. It was a neat unit, far lighter and much more compact than the old RadioShack one. Several of the aircraft on our field are suffering from alt/ignition noise from the jabiru engines and a line filter to clean up the power supply to the radio may help. So far we have changed the coax from RG58 to RG400, re-routed power cables and installed ferrites, all to no avail. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454411#454411 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
Noise filter: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/RS_Noise_Filters.pdf -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454412#454412 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
"it's a 99% sure bet that adding a filter is not going to do the job" http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16761065&sid=a41db49827ad23c5eefc5cad291ea0ed -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454413#454413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
There is DC to DC voltage converter on eBay for $13.24 http://tinyurl.com/jnjj9hj Would it work to eliminate noise? Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454415#454415 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
On 4/1/2016 7:36 AM, user9253 wrote: > > Noise filter: > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/RS_Noise_Filters.pdf > > -------- > Joe Gores For low current demand devices: If you're a scrounger, consider the crossover network from an old loudspeaker. They will likely be physically bigger (the inductors are typically air core instead of iron core), but close to free. Inductors should be in the range as the filters Bob described in the article. DC resistance might be a bit higher unless you're cannibalizing a large, high power speaker. Capacitors might well be a bit higher in capacity. Google 'loudspeaker crossover design' to get an idea of potential component values. Most speaker components are either 4 or 8 ohms these days, and a 2 way speaker will cross over at somewhere between 500 and 2500 HZ. A 3 way will cross over at ~400-1000 HZ, and at ~1500-4000 HZ. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Verwey <bob.verwey(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
This thread seems to cover mostly Alternator noise...what can be done about ignition noise? I have just redone the mags, new p leads appropriately earthed on the mag side only, and some of those automotive style leads that are not screened. Continental IO 470. At 2000 rpm it is like the noise generator turns on. Are we in the same noise spectrum here? On 1 April 2016 at 15:20, Charlie England wrote: > ceengland7(at)gmail.com> > > On 4/1/2016 7:36 AM, user9253 wrote: > >> >> Noise filter: >> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/RS_Noise_Filters.pdf >> >> -------- >> Joe Gores >> > For low current demand devices: > > If you're a scrounger, consider the crossover network from an old > loudspeaker. They will likely be physically bigger (the inductors are > typically air core instead of iron core), but close to free. Inductors > should be in the range as the filters Bob described in the article. DC > resistance might be a bit higher unless you're cannibalizing a large, high > power speaker. Capacitors might well be a bit higher in capacity. > > Google 'loudspeaker crossover design' to get an idea of potential > component values. Most speaker components are either 4 or 8 ohms these > days, and a 2 way speaker will cross over at somewhere between 500 and 2500 > HZ. A 3 way will cross over at ~400-1000 HZ, and at ~1500-4000 HZ. > > Charlie > > -- Best... Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: D Sub Crimper Recommendation?
Date: Apr 01, 2016
Hi Chris, There are two distinctly different crimpers, both work fine. One is the =9Cimport=9D version of the tool with fixed positioners (either standard density or high density) which retails for around $40 and works just fine for several 10=99s of thousands of pins before it wears out. The second is the Mil Spec AFM-8 with replaceable positioners and retails for hundreds of dollars, but can be calibrated and virtually last for hundreds of thousands of crimps and more if maintained. Cheers, Stein From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Mullins Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 11:19 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: D Sub Crimper Recommendation? Sounds like the crimp on coax connectors will work well. Possibly Mr Weir was speaking about the twist on variety. Thank you for the tool suggestions! Extremely helpful. Wondering if you have a favorite reasonably priced d sub crimper? Chris M ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
At 03:19 AM 4/1/2016, you wrote: > >As the AEC2006 line filter has been discontinued, I was wondering if the >values for the components are available, especially the toroidal choke. >It was a neat unit, far lighter and much more compact than the old >RadioShack one. Several of the aircraft on our field are suffering >from alt/ignition noise from the jabiru engines and a line filter to >clean up the >power supply to the radio may help. So far we have changed the coax >from RG58 to RG400, re-routed power cables and installed ferrites, >all to no avail. Have you identified the propagation mode for this noise? You mention alt/ign . . . are you sure you're suffering effects from both antagonists. Solving a an electromagnetic compatibility issue is a bit like playing the board game "Clue". Pour all the possibilities into one bucket then work to eliminate them until you're down to one. Only after you've identified victim/propagation/ antagonist are you ready to explore remedies. This process is described in chapter 16 of the 'Connection. Tell us what the noise(s) sound like and what you've done to identify the antagonist(s). Do the board game switch flipping and knob twisting described in chapter 16. Give us all the evidence gathered and we'll have a MUCH better chance of offering a solution. The 2006 was originally designed to mitigate noise EMISSIONS from a particular but popular brand of turn-coordinator. It has been helpful in a limited number of other cases but experience has shown us that adding filters is usually a 'band-aid' over a design or installation error. Keep in mind that for every airplane having a noise problem, there are thousands of airplanes that do not have a problem. It follows that root cause will most likely be found in the DIFFERENCE between how the problem airplane is built compared to those that don't have problems . . . without band-aids. I've identified the V/P/A configuration for issues on dozens of airplanes and MOST were rectified with very simple attention to architecture and installation basics. The only one I couldn't whip completely was HF transmitter interference to various and sundry systems on the Hawkers. A change of HF antenna system turned the 'hell hole' on these airplanes into a rough equivalent of a microwave oven in which we were 'cooking' accessories designed as far back as 1970 . . . before the HF system became an issue. . . . yes, we shipped a goodly number of airplanes with band-aids on them. This should not be the case for your airplane. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
At 09:06 AM 4/1/2016, you wrote: >This thread seems to cover mostly Alternator noise...what can be >done about ignition noise? >I have just redone the mags, new p leads appropriately earthed on >the mag side only, and some of those automotive style leads that are >not screened. Continental IO 470. >At 2000 rpm it is like the noise generator turns on. >Are we in the same noise spectrum here? You need to identify the propagation mode first. Radiated or conducted? If conducted, which wires are affected, power or signal lines? If RPM sensitive, it might be something as simple as a poor joint that is agitated by vibration. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: D Sub Crimper Recommendation?
At 11:19 PM 3/31/2016, you wrote: >Sounds like the crimp on coax connectors will work well. Possibly Mr >Weir was speaking about the twist on variety. >Thank you for the tool suggestions! Extremely helpful. >Wondering if you have a favorite reasonably priced d sub crimper? Here'a one that is an excellent value http://tinyurl.com/jqyr4sk Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
Any audio signal that gets amplified is very vulnerable to electrical noise. Microphone jacks should be isolated from the airframe and mounted with insulating step washers. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454430#454430 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
TW9zdCBvZiB0aGUgdGltZSwgZGMvZGMgY29udmVydGVycyBhcmUgdGhlIG5vaXNlIHNvdXJjZS4g Oy0pCgo8ZGl2Pi0tLS0tLS0tIE9yaWdpbmFsIG1lc3NhZ2UgLS0tLS0tLS08L2Rpdj48ZGl2PkZy b206IHVzZXI5MjUzIDxmcmFuc2V3QGdtYWlsLmNvbT4gPC9kaXY+PGRpdj5EYXRlOjA0LzAxLzIw MTYgIDc6NTMgQU0gIChHTVQtMDY6MDApIDwvZGl2PjxkaXY+VG86IGFlcm9lbGVjdHJpYy1saXN0 QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20gPC9kaXY+PGRpdj5TdWJqZWN0OiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdDogUmU6 IEFFQzIwMDYgbGluZSBmaWx0ZXIgPC9kaXY+PGRpdj4KPC9kaXY+LS0+IEFlcm9FbGVjdHJpYy1M aXN0IG1lc3NhZ2UgcG9zdGVkIGJ5OiAidXNlcjkyNTMiIDxmcmFuc2V3QGdtYWlsLmNvbT4KClRo ZXJlIGlzIERDIHRvIERDIHZvbHRhZ2UgY29udmVydGVyIG9uIGVCYXkgZm9yICQxMy4yNApodHRw Oi8vdGlueXVybC5jb20vam5qajloagpXb3VsZCBpdCB3b3JrIHRvIGVsaW1pbmF0ZSBub2lzZT8K Sm9lCgotLS0tLS0tLQpKb2UgR29yZXMKCgoKClJlYWQgdGhpcyB0b3BpYyBvbmxpbmUgaGVyZToK Cmh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS92aWV3dG9waWMucGhwP3A9NDU0NDE1IzQ1NDQx NQoKCgoKCgoKXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0KXy09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAtLSBQbGVhc2UgU3VwcG9ydCBZb3VyIExpc3Rz IFRoaXMgTW9udGggLS0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAoQW5kIEdldCBTb21lIEFXRVNPTUUgRlJFRSBH aWZ0cyEpCl8tPQpfLT0gICBOb3ZlbWJlciBpcyB0aGUgQW5udWFsIExpc3QgRnVuZCBSYWlzZXIu ICBDbGljayBvbgpfLT0gICB0aGUgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIGxpbmsgYmVsb3cgdG8gZmluZCBvdXQg bW9yZSBhYm91dApfLT0gICB0aGlzIHllYXIncyBUZXJyaWZpYyBGcmVlIEluY2VudGl2ZSBHaWZ0 cyBwcm92aWRlZApfLT0gICBieToKXy09ICAgCl8tPSAgICAgKiBUaGUgQnVpbGRlcidzIEJvb2tz dG9yZSB3d3cuYnVpbGRlcnNib29rcy5jb20KXy09Cl8tPSAgIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdl YiBTaXRlOgpfLT0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmlidXRp b24KXy09Cl8tPSAgIFRoYW5rIHlvdSBmb3IgeW91ciBnZW5lcm91cyBzdXBwb3J0IQpfLT0KXy09 ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpf LT0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgIC0gVGhlIEFlcm9FbGVjdHJpYy1MaXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVt IC0KXy09IFVzZSB0aGUgTWF0cm9uaWNzIExpc3QgRmVhdHVyZXMgTmF2aWdhdG9yIHRvIGJyb3dz ZQpfLT0gdGhlIG1hbnkgTGlzdCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3VjaCBhcyBMaXN0IFVuL1N1YnNjcmlwdGlv biwKXy09IEFyY2hpdmUgU2VhcmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQsIDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFR LApfLT0gUGhvdG9zaGFyZSwgYW5kIG11Y2ggbXVjaCBtb3JlOgpfLT0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6 Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/QWVyb0VsZWN0cmljLUxpc3QKXy09Cl8tPT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLQpfLT0gU2FtZSBncmVh dCBjb250ZW50IGFsc28gYXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUgV2ViIEZvcnVtcyEKXy09Cl8tPSAgIC0t PiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20KXy09Cl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAt IExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0KXy09ICBUaGFuayB5b3UgZm9yIHlvdXIgZ2Vu ZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCEKXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJh bGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRy aWJ1dGlvbgpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PQoKCgo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: D Sub Crimper Recommendation?
-------------------------------------------- On Fri, 4/1/16, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: D Sub Crimper Recommendation? To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com Date: Friday, April 1, 2016, 10:49 AM At 11:19 PM 3/31/2016, you wrote: Sounds like the crimp on coax connectors will work well. Possibly Mr Weir was speaking about the twist on variety. Thank you for the tool suggestions! Extremely helpful. Wondering if you have a favorite reasonably priced d sub crimper? Here'a one that is an excellent value http://tinyurl.com/jqyr4sk Bob, Will the tool you linked above also do machined high density D Sub pins? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2016
You might be correct. I suppose it all depends on the frequency of the oscillator. Many electronic devices have a switching power supply, which I believe the DC to DC converter has. If it operates above the range of human hearing, then I would expect it to be quiet. Of course radio frequency interference is not desirable either. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454451#454451 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: D Sub Crimper Recommendation?
> > >Bob, > Will the tool you linked above also do machined high density D Sub pins? > > This is problematic . . . if the pin positioner indexes off the END of the pin, then the quad-crimp will be in about the right place. Emacs! However, the fussier tools (read $high$) will index of the largest leading shoulder. In that case, a positioner set up for D20 might not even 'catch' an HD22 . . . and the pin falls through. Then there is the matter of crush depth for the wire grip. The Eclipse tools I used to sell did put an adequate crush on an HD22 pin . . . I could not pull it off with ~5 pounds of force. The pins you see above were applied with a tip-indexing positioner in a Buchanan tool. Wire grip position is good . . . but the HD22 pin is loose on the strands. The short answer is try it. Look at were the crush hits the wire barrel . . . it should be centered on the paint stripes. Then hang a gallon milk jug about 2/3 full of water on the wire and lift ot with a pair of pliers on the pin. If the wire doesn't move, you're good to go. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AEC2006 line filter
At 06:40 PM 4/1/2016, you wrote: > >You might be correct. I suppose it all depends on the frequency of >the oscillator. Many electronic devices have a switching power >supply, which I believe the DC to DC converter has. If it operates >above the range of human hearing, then I would expect it to be >quiet. Of course radio frequency interference is not desirable either. I've never met a 'barefooted' switchmode power supply that didn't talk to adjacent radios. Cigar lighter phone chargers are notorious for their willingness to trash broadcast signals to your car radio. Assuming the designer has the will, any switchmode power supply can be made EMC friendly . . . it's done all the time with appropriate filters, careful attention to board layout and perhaps some RF tight enclosure. But if somebody simply takes a design from the app-notes for some power supply controller chip . . . then I guarantee you that the circuit would not pass DO-160 conducted and radiated emissions tests. That's an EXTRA effort above and beyond making it work. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2016
Subject: switches
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
i have 2 ecu's and 2 elec fuel pumps. my engine needs one of each to run.the system also never wants 2 of either running at the same time. i think there may be times when i want the master on but no power to either. i plan to use on-off-on switches. is there any reason i am not thinking of [wouldn't take much!] that i would want on-on switches instead? thanks again. bob noffs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2016
Subject: switches
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
CgoKLS0tLS0tLS0gT3JpZ2luYWwgbWVzc2FnZSAtLS0tLS0tLQpGcm9tOiBib2Igbm9mZnMKRGF0 ZTowNC8wMi8yMDE2IDU6NDkgQU0gKEdNVC0wNTowMCkKVG86IGFlcm9lbGVjdHJpYy1saXN0QG1h dHJvbmljcy5jb20KU3ViamVjdDogQWVyb0VsZWN0cmljLUxpc3Q6IHN3aXRjaGVzCgppIGhhdmUg MiBlY3UncyBhbmQgMiBlbGVjIGZ1ZWwgcHVtcHMuIG15IGVuZ2luZSBuZWVkcyBvbmUgb2YgZWFj aCB0byBydW4udGhlIHN5c3RlbSBhbHNvIG5ldmVyIHdhbnRzIDIgb2YgZWl0aGVyIHJ1bm5pbmcg YXQgdGhlIHNhbWUgdGltZS4gaSB0aGluayB0aGVyZSBtYXkgYmUgdGltZXMgd2hlbiBpIHdhbnQg dGhlIG1hc3RlciBvbiBidXQgbm8gcG93ZXIgdG8gZWl0aGVyLiBpIHBsYW4gdG8gdXNlIG9uLW9m Zi1vbiBzd2l0Y2hlcy4gaXMgdGhlcmUgYW55IHJlYXNvbiBpIGFtIG5vdCB0aGlua2luZyBvZiBb d291bGRuJ3QgdGFrZSBtdWNoIV0gdGhhdCBpIHdvdWxkIHdhbnQgb24tb24gc3dpdGNoZXMgaW5z dGVhZD8KIHRoYW5rcyBhZ2Fpbi4KIGJvYiBub2ZmcwoKVGhlIDFzdCB0aGluZyBJIHRoaW5rIG9m IGlzIHRoYXQgYSBtZWNoYW5pY2FsIGZhaWx1cmUgb2YgYSBzaW5nbGUgc3dpdGNoIGNvdWxkIGNh dXNlIGxvc3Mgb2YgYm90aCBjb21wb25lbnRzLiAKCkxpa2UgeW91LCBJIGxpa2UgdGhlIGlkZWEg b2YgJ2V4Y2x1c2l2ZSBvcicgc3dpdGNoaW5nLCBidXQgd291bGRuJ3Qgd2FudCBib3RoIHB1bXBz IG9yIGN0bHMgcm91dGVkIHRocm91Z2ggdGhlIHNhbWUgc3dpdGNoLgoKQ2hhcmxpZQ= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger <rnjcurtis(at)charter.net>
Subject: switches
Date: Apr 02, 2016
i have 2 ecu's and 2 elec fuel pumps. my engine needs one of each to run.th e system also never wants 2 of either running at the same time. i think the re may be times when i want the master on but no power to either. i plan to use on-off-on switches. is there any reason i am not thinking of [wouldn't take much!] that i would want on-on switches instead? =C2-thanks again. =C2-bob noffs Just remember, as has been discussed many times on this forum, switches ar e prone to failure!! DO NOT use one switch to select between two critical devices, such as ECU=99s. I used 4 ea. SPST switches, 1 for each of the 2 ECU=99s and 1 for ea ch of the 2 fuel pumps. This method does not keep you from turning on both ECU=99s or pumps, but my system does not care if they are all on. T hese switches are powered from the battery bus so therefore are always powe red even when the master is off. Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: switches
Date: Apr 02, 2016
I have the same setup that you do and I used a lever-lock on-off switch for e ach component. No accidental switch actuation in turbulence. You must pull o ut on the switch to turn it off. If your system is an EFII system, it comes with an on-on ecu select switch a lready wired into the harness. I have an independent power switch for each ecu, fuel pump, and coil pack. T his allows me to have the master on without any of the efii system powered. Justin > On Apr 2, 2016, at 06:24, Roger wrote: > > > i have 2 ecu's and 2 elec fuel pumps. my engine needs one of each to run.t he system also never wants 2 of either running at the same time. i think the re may be times when i want the master on but no power to either. i plan to u se on-off-on switches. is there any reason i am not thinking of [wouldn't ta ke much!] that i would want on-on switches instead? > thanks again. > bob noffs > > Just remember, as has been discussed many times on this forum, s witches are prone to failure!! DO NOT use one switch to select between two c ritical devices, such as ECU=99s. > > I used 4 ea. SPST switches, 1 for each of the 2 ECU=99s a nd 1 for each of the 2 fuel pumps. This method does not keep you from turni ng on both ECU=99s or pumps, but my system does not care if they are a ll on. These switches are powered from the battery bus so therefore are alw ays powered even when the master is off. > > Roger > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: switches
At 04:49 AM 4/2/2016, you wrote: >i have 2 ecu's and 2 elec fuel pumps. my engine needs one of each to >run.the system also never wants 2 of either running at the same >time. i think there may be times when i want the master on but no >power to either. i plan to use on-off-on switches. is there any >reason i am not thinking of [wouldn't take much!] that i would want >on-on switches instead? Electrically dependent engine support is best brought off the battery bus with EACH device having its own, separate switch and circuit protection. Place 'paired' switches side-by-side so that their proper positioning is obvious. When you say "never" at the same time . . . what's the hazard? Does the engine simply 'change voice', stumble, or stop dead? THIS IS SOMETHING YOU NEED TO KNOW. It affects your plan-b architecture and contributes to your comfortable, competent operation of the machine. When ever you read/hear 'never', ask and understand the consequences. As others have noted, interlocking paired systems as a hedge against 'accidental' switch positioning does not yield the best FEMA and probability for success in all foreseeable failures. In 45 years of slinging wire in systems on ultra-lights to Hawker 4000, I have used only ONE compliment of lever-lock and covered switches on 4 installations . . . Emacs! This was done on a system that blew the A## end of the airplane off and threw out a parachute that made the airplane very difficult to fly while offering a way to recover an un-flyable airplane. In this case, lever-locks and covers had nothing to do with prevention of accidental motion and everything to do with encouraging focused attention on the action for the purpose of mitigating an exceedingly stressful flight condition. I humbly suggest that if anyone is worried about 'accidental' positioning of controls in a GA aircraft, then your knowledge of and confidence in the operation of the airplane needs some attention. Here's a sad example of poor attention to understanding that got some folks killed and cost a lot of dollars better expended elsewhere . . . http://tinyurl.com/nrm5k2r The two guys up front in this airplane were not an 'accident looking for a place to happen' they were simply unqualified to be in an airplane they did not understand. They drove right into that crash . . . It's a matter of mind set that focuses first on crafting an elegant system with a confident outcome for a failure mode effects analysis as the 'cake' . . . followed up with your understanding of how it all works as the 'frosting'. If you understand your machine there will be no 'accidents' in the cockpit. Further, statistics show that should you ever find yourself with a very silent engine up front the overwhelming predominance of root causes are empty fuel tanks . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Rotax alternator problem
>I am building a Bristell RG powered by Rotax 912ULS and I was >wondering if you could help me. > >There is the Rotax own alternator build in already that produces >around 18A and I intend to install the BC425-H as well. > >My question is how I can wire this in parallel just as per figure >17-8 as Auxiliary Alternator with Autoswitching. I am not too sure >how I can make the Rotax 18A alternator to work with the BC425-H. "Autoswitching" is of little or no operational value . . . your airplane is not going to crash and burn because of primary alternator failure . . . the low voltage warning light comes on, you turn off main alternator and turn on standby alternator. If you're drinking a cup of coffee when the light comes on, finish the cup before you start flipping switches . . . you don't want your clothes to smell like coffee when you land. Wire each alternator to the system as if it was the only alternator. Fit the system with low voltage warning. Fly comfortably. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax alternator problem
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 03, 2016
Are you sure that a second alternator is required? Hundreds of Van's RV-12s are flying with only the Rotax 912ULS built-in alternator. Many of those RV-12s have dual glass panels and LED strobes and a LED landing light. The landing gear of the Bristell RG can run off from the battery for the short time it operates. The Rotax alternator has no moving parts except for the engine flywheel (with permanent magnets). So it is highly unlikely to fail. However, a backup Rectifier/Regulator could be considered. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454515#454515 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Charlotte, NC Weekend Seminar May 21-22
Lister Ken Larson has offered the hospitality of EAA Chapter 309 to host an AeroElectric Connection weekend seminar http://tinyurl.com/z5hdcq2 on KIPJ http://tinyurl.com/h67yba9 May 21 and 22. Dr. Dee and I are coming in a day early so that we can spend more time with our friends in NC. There will probably be a Friday evening meet-n-greet on Lake Norman Airpark http://tinyurl.com/gla9ma5 I've opened a sign=up portal on the website at http://aeroelectric.com We need ~20 sign-ups by May 5 so we can buy non-refundable airline tickets at reasonable prices. It's been awhile since we've been out in the field . . . looking forward to meeting many of our readers and friends. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Subject: pins and wire and tools
Date: Apr 04, 2016
Bob, It seems as if I keep hitting a brick wall at every step I try. I met a complete stranger the other day and showed him the "Winchester c onnector" and he asked "Is that an amp ?". He then len't me his removal tool,the b lack one with the plunger, and I came home and removed all of the pins and sockets I had been given . Turns out they were all machine crimped so it's unlikly that I will be able to get them apar t so as to reuse them. That leaves me in need of 60 pins and 40 sockets . I don't know what siz e these are. And 1500 ft. of 22 Ga. stranded wire. And a crimping tool. I have a Thom as & Betts WT100M sta-kon tool. That might work but I'm not sure. Do you sell any of these things ? Larry Thanks Bob, If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. Larry On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Bob, There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. The link trainer has two female plug sockets mounted within a plate on t he side of the machine. To start changing connectors I would have to make a new mounting plate a nd desolder 40 22 ga. wires then solder them back into the new connectors. I would have to do the sa me to the 20 wires that are part of the flight recorder. Yes, these are pretty old connectors. They were used on the trainer when they were built in 72. Larry I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many wires. I've probably got what you need in crimped housings and pins to do the job. Got a tool I could loan you too. Bob . . . ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Subject: pins and wire and tools
Date: Apr 04, 2016
Bob, It seems as if I keep hitting a brick wall at every step I try. I met a complete stranger the other day and showed him the "Winchester c onnector" and he asked "Is that an amp ?". He then len't me his removal tool,the b lack one with the plunger, and I came home and removed all of the pins and sockets I had been given . Turns out they were all machine crimped so it's unlikly that I will be able to get them apar t so as to reuse them. That leaves me in need of 60 pins and 40 sockets . I don't know what siz e these are. And 1500 ft. of 22 Ga. stranded wire. And a crimping tool. I have a Thom as & Betts WT100M sta-kon tool. That might work but I'm not sure. Do you sell any of these things ? Larry Thanks Bob, If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. Larry On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Bob, There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. The link trainer has two female plug sockets mounted within a plate on t he side of the machine. To start changing connectors I would have to make a new mounting plate a nd desolder 40 22 ga. wires then solder them back into the new connectors. I would have to do the sa me to the 20 wires that are part of the flight recorder. Yes, these are pretty old connectors. They were used on the trainer when they were built in 72. Larry I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many wires. I've probably got what you need in crimped housings and pins to do the job. Got a tool I could loan you too. Bob . . . ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Raby" <ronr(at)advanceddesign.com>
Subject: pins and wire and tools
Date: Apr 04, 2016
Larry, Bob I use Winchester connectors at my work. If you post a couple of pictures. I may have what you are looking for. The part # I have is 1020p and 1020s. Link to picture of the pin: http://ecommerce.cdmelectronics.com/winchester-electronics/100-1020P Regards Ron Raby From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mac Donald Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 1:53 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: pins and wire and tools Bob, It seems as if I keep hitting a brick wall at every step I try. I met a complete stranger the other day and showed him the "Winchester connector" and he asked "Is that an amp ?". He then len't me his removal tool,the black one with the plunger, and I came home and removed all of the pins and sockets I had been given. Turns out they were all machine crimped so it's unlikly that I will be able to get them apart so as to reuse them. That leaves me in need of 60 pins and 40 sockets . I don't know what size these are. And 1500 ft. of 22 Ga. stranded wire. And a crimping tool. I have a Thomas & Betts WT100M sta-kon tool. That might work but I'm not sure. Do you sell any of these things ? Larry Thanks Bob, If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer. Larry On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Bob, There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache. The link trainer has two female plug sockets mounted within a plate on the side of the machine. To start changing connectors I would have to make a new mounting plate and desolder 40 22 ga. wires then solder them back into the new connectors. I would have to do the same to the 20 wires that are part of the flight recorder. Yes, these are pretty old connectors. They were used on the trainer when they were built in 72. Larry I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many wires. I've probably got what you need in crimped housings and pins to do the job. Got a tool I could loan you too. Bob . . . ____________________________________________________________ <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=nzmem0216> Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=nzmem0216> Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=nzmem0216> Starting at only $9.95 per month! <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=nzmem0216> www.netzero.net <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=nzmem0216> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: pins and wire and tools
Date: Apr 04, 2016
On Apr 4, 2016, at 2:15 PM, Ron Raby wrote: Ron, My pins have barbs on them in order to keep them locked into the plug. Larry > Larry, Bob > > I use Winchester connectors at my work. If you post a couple of pictur es. I may have what you are looking for. The part # I have is 1020p and 1020s. > > Link to picture of the pin: > http://ecommerce.cdmelectronics.com/winchester-electronics/100-1020P > > Regards > > Ron Raby ____________________________________________________________ Wall Street Daily Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5702b7d5bcb0137d42728st01vuc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: alternator
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 04, 2016
It seems that the Dynon lost power for some reason, bad avionics switch or loose connection anywhere between the master contactor and power bus. The vast majority of electrical problems are due to bad connections. Check every switch and terminal before suspecting more expensive parts. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454556#454556 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2016
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: Charlotte, NC Weekend Seminar May 21-22
Hi Bob; Unfortunately I'm not a candidate for your North Carolina meeting.=C2- Do you ever get out to the north-west coast, say Seattle-ish? Cheers!=C2-=C2- Stu. PS: I have your manual, and a good piece of work it is! Stuart C. Ashley 1638 Penn Cove Road Oak Harbor, WA=C2- 98277 ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net 360-678-5255 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 6:21:59 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Charlotte, NC Weekend Seminar May 21-22 Lister Ken Larson has offered the hospitality of EAA Chapter 309 to host an AeroElectric Connection weekend seminar http://tinyurl.com/z5hdcq2 on KIPJ http://tinyurl.com/h67yba9 May 21 and 22. Dr. Dee and I are coming in a day early so that we can spend more time with our friends in NC. There will probably be a Friday evening meet-n-greet on Lake Norman Airpark http://tinyurl.com/gla9ma5 I've opened a sign=up portal on the website at http://aeroelectric.com =C2- We need ~20 sign-ups by May 5 so we can buy non-refundable airline tickets at reasonable prices. It's been awhile since we've been out in the field . . . looking forward to meeting many of our readers and friends. =C2- Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Date: Apr 05, 2016
For the folks going to SnF, can you have a talk and look at the Garmin boot for this: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod514383.html interesting price, in difference to Dynon D2 it has pitot and static connection in addition to GPS, wonder how the horizon is setup (as no AHRS). Please question them and post some feedback! Cheers Werner ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
From: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Looks like it might be similar to the trutrak gemini which uses static pressure to "align and stabilize" a rate gyro in pitch and gps track to do the same in roll. Entirely adequate for me as an IFR rated pilot flying a VFR only aircraft or as an IFR backup. A huge improvement over needle ball and airspeed. However I would not accept such an architecture as the primary ADI in a high performance aircraft. For example it will slowly align to show a level pitch attitude if the VSI is zero. Because that could be fatal as you slow it uses pitot pressure to warn you of low airspeed. Similarly in a sideslip with a constant heading it will gradually align to show wings level. So great for most uses but perhaps not so much for things like unusual attitude recovery. Again I'm only guessing that it might be similar to the trutrak gemini which I'm familiar with. Ken On 05/04/2016 7:26 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > > For the folks going to SnF, can you have a talk and look at the Garmin > boot for this: > > https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod514383.html > > interesting price, in difference to Dynon D2 it has pitot and static > connection in addition to GPS, wonder how the horizon is setup (as no > AHRS). > > Please question them and post some feedback! > > Cheers Werner > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Thanks Ken, and that is exactly what I wanted to know in order to compare the different backup instruments available :) Cheers Werner On 05.04.2016 14:07, C&K wrote: > > Looks like it might be similar to the trutrak gemini which uses static > pressure to "align and stabilize" a rate gyro in pitch and gps track to > do the same in roll. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Hello Werner I will try to do it, if the GARMIN booth has no line to it ... Cheers from Florida Carlos Enviado do meu iPhone No dia 05/04/2016, s 07:26, Werner Schneider escreveu: > > For the folks going to SnF, can you have a talk and look at the Garmin boot for this: > > https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod514383.html > > interesting price, in difference to Dynon D2 it has pitot and static connection in addition to GPS, wonder how the horizon is setup (as no AHRS). > > Please question them and post some feedback! > > Cheers Werner > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Thanks Carlos, like Ken pointed out most interesting will be how the attitude is done so loosing static or dyn pressure will not impact attitude. enjoy the show! Cheers Werner On 05.04.2016 14:52, Carlos Trigo wrote: > > Hello Werner > > I will try to do it, if the GARMIN booth has no line to it ... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
Date: Apr 05, 2016
> wonder how the horizon is setup (as no AHRS). Is the concern that it doesn't have a *remote* AHRS box? I'm not sure why such a thing is necessary when you can fit all the gyros in the panel-mounted instrument. Daniel > On Apr 5, 2016, at 6:26 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > > For the folks going to SnF, can you have a talk and look at the Garmin boot for this: > > https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod514383.html > > interesting price, in difference to Dynon D2 it has pitot and static connection in addition to GPS, wonder how the horizon is setup (as no AHRS). > > Please question them and post some feedback! > > Cheers Werner > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
Date: Apr 05, 2016
I think you may have mistaken about the ADAHRS portion...not only does it have an ADAHRS in it, but when connected to a full G3X system it can act as a backup ADAHRS for the primary system as well as its own. Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 6:26 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS" --> For the folks going to SnF, can you have a talk and look at the Garmin boot for this: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod514383.html interesting price, in difference to Dynon D2 it has pitot and static connection in addition to GPS, wonder how the horizon is setup (as no AHRS). Please question them and post some feedback! Cheers Werner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charlotte, NC Weekend Seminar May 21-22
At 10:54 PM 4/4/2016, you wrote: >Hi Bob; >Unfortunately I'm not a candidate for your North Carolina >meeting. Do you ever get out to the north-west coast, say Seattle-ish? >Cheers! Stu. >PS: I have your manual, and a good piece of work it is! >Stuart C. Ashley >1638 Penn Cove Road >Oak Harbor, WA 98277 >ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net >360-678-5255 Got an EAA Chapter that would like to host one . . . and a suitable facility? Have Power-Point on a thumb drive, will travel. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Thanks Stein, probably just did not write enough details :) and did not see it protruding behind the screen like a Dynon D10, so got it wrong. There are different ADAHRS out there each having a certain software using different parameters to correct for drifting of the Gyros, some of them better some worse, it would be a very interesting thing to know which platform is using what algorithm/sensordata to correct, as this will have an influence on how the attitude indication will behave (as Ken noted). For IFR I believe this is a very valid point to look at. Remember that Aeroperu Flight 603 a B757 accident off Chiles coast, 3 static ports were blocked with masking tape bringing a lot of erroneous indications in the cockpit during night time. I would like to have two independent system if possible in the Cockpit, but would like to know how each of it would react to some errors in the signals received. Any list around detailing this? Cheers On 05.04.2016 16:17, Stein Bruch wrote: > > I think you may have mistaken about the ADAHRS portion...not only does it > have an ADAHRS in it, but when connected to a full G3X system it can act as > a backup ADAHRS for the primary system as well as its own. > > Cheers, > Stein > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2016
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Charlotte, NC Weekend Seminar May 21-22
At 10:54 PM 4/4/2016, you wrote: >Hi Bob; >Unfortunately I'm not a candidate for your North Carolina >meeting. Do you ever get out to the north-west coast, say Seattle-ish? >Cheers! Stu. >PS: I have your manual, and a good piece of work it is! >Stuart C. Ashley >1638 Penn Cove Road >Oak Harbor, WA 98277 >ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net >360-678-5255 Stewart, Got an EAA Chapter that would like to host one . . . and a suitable facility? Have Power-Point on a thumb drive, will travel. P.S. Here's a little information sheet on how to get the ball rolling on a seminar http://tinyurl.com/6t85jr3 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS"
Date: Apr 05, 2016
Note that regarding a "protruding ADAHRS", there really is no such relationship between how big an instrument is and what sensors it has in it anymore. For example, even the new certified digital attitude indicators are only about 1" deep in totality (think Sandia, RC Allen, etc..). Technology has changed drastically in short time periods. I doubt you're going to get any technical details on the aiding (if any), as most of the companies hold that pretty close to their chest anymore. Additionally, the new crop of sensors are their core are really darned good (not laser ring gyro good, but still good). That 757 accident was drilled into our brains at the airlines, but the stuff in a 57/67 is literally archaic in comparison to what these new systems have in them (and we hopefully don't have cleaners putting speed tape over our static ports when they dynol the gear and such)! Anyway, Here's some text directly from the Garmin engineers....(copied from a post of theirs in an online forum): ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------- When we developed the original product goals and features, high on the list was a requirement that the unit be the most robust and trusted backup instrument on the market for customers using any brand of EFIS system, including Garmin G3X and G3X Touch. To accomplish this, we knew we needed to maintain a high level of independence and dissimilarity in both the hardware and software design such that a common mode fault in either hardware or software that could simultaneously affect both the G3X system and the backup instrument be extremely improbable, if not impossible. We started by choosing brand new attitude sensors. We have great sensors in the GSU 25 ADAHRS and would have liked to re-use those, but to have the best assurance that no common mode fault of these sensors could possibly jeopardize the display of attitude information (however remote!), new sensors were chosen, incorporated, and tested. On the software side we started with a brand new simplified Garmin operating system that isn't common with the one used in the G3X displays (which is quite large, complex, and capable in comparison). We kept out many features common to EFIS systems like internal database loading/use (and thus synthetic vision) and Bluetooth to keep from having to re-use or re-develop large bodies of code that are used in the G3X displays. Not only is the G5 display rather compact in comparison to the big displays and thus not the best place to attempt to show synthetic vision, but we didn't want a backup instrument with over a million lines of code! We even developed a new graphics library that operates very differently than the one used in the G3X displays. Even the backlight is handled in a dissimilar manner. Instead of following an aircraft lighting bus that might be common to the large displays, the G5 uses either photocell backlighting control or manual (your choice). All of these features in combination with built-in independent WAAS GPS receiver, airspeed, and altitude sensors means you can install this instrument with confidence in any aircraft regardless of the brand of EFIS system you are using. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 9:55 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin's new low price approach to "EFIS" -->


March 20, 2016 - April 05, 2016

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