Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ai
February 24, 1997 - April 21, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>>Because British beer doesn't have to be refrigerated to hide the taste!<<
Correction: not all British beer {:-}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE(2): What to do with all of that blue foam. |
>> keep the lightening hole cores etc. for future use<<
Keep them labeled, they are needed to fill up the ends of their holes.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glasswork Techniques |
>>WOULD YOU SAY YOUR MICRO THEREFORE IS NOT A LOT DISSIMILAR TO YOUR DRY MICRO
I.E. CLOSER TO IT THAN TO PURE RESIN ITSELF?
yes, about 2/3 the way to dry. I also mix Cabosil, roughly 15:20% by volume in
the micro. Mixes and spreads better.
DOES YOUR FOAM BLANK AFTER THE LAYUP HAS CURED STILL RETAIN ITS ORIGINAL
BLUE COLOUR ?
More or less, dings, slots etc show white, the rest is very slightly lighter
blue.
MY MICRO SLURRY HAS BEEN MORE TO DATE LIKE ONE OF MY KID'S BOWLS OF MELTED
ICE CREAM,
A little too wet. Try it more like bread spread, (butter etc). It needs the
extra viscocity to make it adhesive enough when wet to not allow the glass to
wander about after layup. (Split infinitives are now allowed, I understand.)
I've tried the odd little layup without micro. You get virtually no bond at all.
WHAT ARE YOU BASING YOUR CHOICE OF MICROSLURRY THICKNESS ON SUCH THAT IT
APPEARS THICKER THAN MY OTHER REFERENCES SUCH AS THE RUTAN BOOK.( I KNOW A
LOT OF WATER HAS GONE UNDER THE BRIDGE SINCE THEN, AND AIRCRAFT MADE)
IS IT TO DO WITH DELAMINATION EXPERIENCE?
Just accumulated feel for the job. The biggest problem is describing it. Maybe
this is why I may appear to disagree with Burt. I haven't read the latest word
from the Mount, but I do know he's moved on a bit from where we are. He's into
filament winding and all that stuff now. Get yourself shown round Scaled, if you
can. It's a revelation on what homebuilders can do. You can mention my name
there, but it might be politic to say you are building a Long EZ.
YOU OBVIOUSLY SQUEEGEE IN ALL DIRECTIONS, CAREFULLY DO YOU???
Yes, but not always ;-) Any doubt, squeegee allong the fibres, if there's
excess resin you can go anywhere.
Rectify:-
HOW?? IS THIS WHERE YOU WOULD USE A BLOW DRYER?
Do it before the hair drier is needed. Viscocity increases in a non linear way.
Keep checking until you know the habits of your resin system. They all vary,
which is why some are easier than others. Often the easiest ones are the most
toxic. The best are also the most toxic. { :-(
>
>
IMHO & SIMPLY AS AN OBSERVATION, I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN SUCH
THAT YOU CAN NOTICE IT VISUALLY ANYWAY. I SUPPOSE IF WE ARE REALLY ONLY
FILLING PORES AND THEN PROPERLY SQUEEGEEING OFF, THE FUTURE APPLICATION OF
RESIN SHOULD NOT NECESSARILY PULL UP FROM BELOW THE WET MICRO FROM THE PORES.
> and grab the glass, making it very hard to get all the fibres laying where you
>want them.
THIS CERTAINLY DOES HAPPEN SUCH THAT ONCE ITS DOWN, IN MY MIND, ITS DOWN FOR
GOOD.
It's not too difficult to straighten fibres by pulling on the two ends of the
bent ones. A couple of tugs will show when you have the right ends, then just
move across and pull the next group. This also works if your sqeegee digs in
and pulls up some fibres.
>
DO YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE AVERAGE COMPONENT WEIGHTS AT HAND? I GOT THEM ONCE
BUT MY FILING SYSTEM SEEMS TO HAVE SWALLOWED THEM.
Nope, sorry.
MY TECHNICAL COUNCILLOR HASNT WORKED ON A
FIBREGLASS AIRCRAFT BEFORE
I'm an EAA tech councillor, if that helps atall. Also PFA inspector.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>>We underwent the quite often normal glass cockpit conversation of " What is
it doing now?<<
We had a fascinating TV series recently. There was film of an A320 doing the
most frightening pitch oscillations over Paris that I've ever seen. (Except
Concordski) The aircraft had been told to go round and apparently decided it
prefered to land. Remember the one that landed itself in the forest at Basle?
That was a denied request to go round. They crucified the pilot. Should have
been the software man.
I once said to a friend who designs engines (RB211s) that I thought designers
needed to learn to fly. He said "would I accept simulators" At the time I
acquiesced, now I don't think I would.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vibration question ... |
Vibration question ...
Graham Singleton wrote: <>
This prompts me to ask a question. Should I be thinking of mounting the
instrument panel on some kind of rubber/foam strip just to cut down vibration to
the instruments. OK, so the vibration would still transmit through the retaining
bolts but it got me thinking.
Any comments on what others have done would be appreciated.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim_thursby(at)simphonics.com (Jim Thursby) |
| Subject: | Fin weight, Tony. |
It's been 3 months Tony, but I believe I mixed a total of 150 grams for
each side of the rudder. I mixed 100 first, and a 50 gram batch, and
probably wasted 10-30 grams. Not including slurry. I went out and weighed
all my parts tonight and here it is:
rudder-1828.0 grams with hinges and a taillight fairing.
tailplanes-3893.6, 3901.0 grams without tabs, but with bushings.
tabs-470.2, 468.9 grams with hinges.
aileron-1176.5grams with hinges, without balances.( other one has balances
installed.)
flaps-2810.4, 2822.1grams with FL 1,2 and 3 installed.
In the # 5 issue of the Europa newsletter, the weights were quoted as,
fin-1.588kg, rudder-1.814kg, tailplane-3.94kg, tab-0.43kg.
Being a Yank and all that, my metric is a little rusty, but I think your
weight of 1535 grams is 1.535kilograms, and is within limits. I weigh all
my parts on a electronic sartorius scale, accurate to 1/10 of a gram in
5000. grams. Let me know how your next layups go. Hope this helps.
Jim Thursby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE(2): What to do with all of that blue foam. |
Some of the bits are specifically intended for later use--generally you
can see where they're going to go.
Thus far, at least for me, the instruction manual has been pretty good
about when to keep them and when you can throw them away, for instance
they let you know that the outer tailplane cores need only the aftmost
core, while the inner ones need both inboard and outboard ends of the
holes "bunged up."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron/Flap junction. |
> A question for those who have completed their wings. With everything on
>top of the wing looking flat, (at the aileron/flap area) on the bottom of
>the wing the trailing edge matches, but the leading edge of the flap is
>approximately 1/4 inch thicker. Is this normal for this? Everything else
>fits good on the wing except this. Any info appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Thursby
It sounds to me as if the flap is too far aft.
The leading edge of the flap should be approximately 3mm from the vertical
face of the flap close-out.
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
> There will be
>pain lining up the quick connect pivot bolts. Install and set up the wing lift
>pins before putting the top on.
>
The reason that the manual calls for the setting up for the wing lift pin
sockets after the fuselage top has been bonded on is due to problems
experienced whilst building the production prototype G-ELSA. The
flexibility in the fuselage may allow things to move sufficiently for the
pins and sockets not to line up after the top is added. If you ensure that
nothing will move then you may get way with it.
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>
>
> Didn't YURO have a separate flap control? And, if so, was there
>some scheme to work its outriggers from the gear handle, or were they
>linked with the flaps? Perhaps someone from the factory could advise.
>
G-YURO did have a separate flap control in the early days, but the
outriggers were always driven from the flap as they are now.
Walter Binder from Germany has modified his outriggers to retract
electrically; they are coupled with doors!
He may save you reinventing this particular wheel, with separate outrigger
controls.
It would then be a simple operation adding a new lever to drive the flap
push-rod of course.
Q. What temperature was American beer before fridges were invented?
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
>I am nearing completion of the cockpit module and am considering adding a
>Nav-Aid autopilot. Has anyone installed one? Will the servo fit on the seat
>back above the pitch cross tube without interfering or getting bashed when
>the spars are inserted?
>
> Any details on installation would be most welcome, particularly how it is
>connected to the aileron control system.
>
Regarding Nav-Aid autopilots talk to David Dufton (no 16) or Tom Sinclair
(no 50) who have both fitted them.
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Thanks, Andy--
I'd actually envisioned something a bit simpler--perhaps a big
"hairpin" spring arrangement built into the outrigger system to allow the
outriggers to go down and lock at about half flap, then allow the flap to
continue down the rest of the way as required.
On the other hand, if the 150-hp version of the Zoche aero diesel
ever becomes available (weighs less than the 914!), then I could probably
take off straight up even with flaps deflected 60 degrees a` la "Lift
Dump" on the HS-125!
immigrants. Before refrigerators, people actually sawed ice from
northern lakes in winter, packed it in sawdust, and shipped it all over
the country.
That being said, as an "overseas member of the Real Beer
movement," I agree completely that English beer--what we Demned Colonists
would probably call "ale"--should indeed be drunk (as should those who
consume it) at room temperature. On the other hand, since most of your
pubs have Lucas heaters...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
I am currently making up the fuel tank fittings and have elected to fit the
optional fuel tank drain valves. The drawing supplied shows the F09C fitting
with the fuel opening uppermost and the drain fitting below. Clearly, this
leaves an extra 1/2 inch or so of fuel as unusable. In the original F09A the
fuel was drawn from the middle of the fitting so orientation wasn't a
concern.
What is the goal here? Is it to leave fuel which possibly contains dirt
inaccessible? Won't dirt generally be removed via the added drains? Or is
the orientation of the part in the drawing not pertinent? There is no
guidance in the text, perhaps because it wasn't needed with the original
part.
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 23/02/97 23:32:27, you write:
> Failsafe so the engine runs without being connected to anything<
Unfortunately there will be times when an engine continuing to run on switch
failure( or even bursting into life) will be very hazardous. e.g. in the
hangar !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 24/02/97 22:15:45, you write:
> decided it didn't want to go to Perth anymore<
What with world-wide stored databases, one on these days it will decide
Perth, Scotland would satisfy the demand--- hope it checks the fuel first
(:-))). I think a bit more built-in intelligence is already overdue. We are
already having to decide between home grown beacons and replicas around the
world, even though the thing is remembering home base coordinates until told
otherwise, just to speed up acquisition.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Undersized Rudder |
In a message dated 24/02/97 00:47:09, you write:
>OTH the positioning of the fin is a bit imprecise. Maybe that's where the
errors creep in>.
Yes there is a tendency to fit the fin on the joggle to minimise later
in-filling, especially as you have no straight edge to guide you on the
leading edge profile. This is in retrospect a mistake. IIHMTOG I would give
priority to the rudder closeout line.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Undersized Rudder |
IIHMTOG? That's a new one, please explain!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | pa Club subs - clarification! |
I have just realised that my recent message about acceptance of credit
cards for Club subs may have caused some confusion.
The Club year runs from 1st April to 31st March, and subs cover that
period, including 4 newsletters. I will be sending out personalised renewal
forms to all current members with the next issue of the Europa Flyer in
March, so if your membership is current, you do not NEED to do anything at
present. If you wish to renew before 31st March, I am happy to accept your
renewal remittance at any time. If you wish to join as a new member, you
can join now at the part-year rate (that will get you 2 newsletters rather
than 4) or wait till 1st April & join then for the full 1997/8 year.
Hope that's clear - if anyone is still confused, please get back to me
direct in private e-mail, not on the list.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
a big
>"hairpin" spring arrangement built into the outrigger system to allow the
>outriggers to go down and lock at about half flap, then allow the flap to
>continue down the rest of the way as required.
Tell us more.... I've been fiddling around with a sketch pad in the evenings
for ages, and still haven't come up with a suitable scheme.
"American Beer,"<> That being said, as an "overseas member of the Real Beer
>movement," I agree completely that English beer--what we Demned Colonists
>would probably call "ale"--should indeed be drunk (as should those who
>consume it) at room temperature. On the other hand, since most of your
>pubs have Lucas heaters...
I'm told that what we regard as beer is deemed to be "malt liquor" over
there if it's more than 3% or something: what is deemed to be beer over
there is called gnat's **** over here... :) and tastes like it too if you
don't drink it freezing cold. But I must confess that I have sampled a few
independent breweries in the USA (amazing to think that there are far more
of them over here) and was pleasantly surprised.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
I know its not a chat group but I think there is a Sun and Fun web site and
I could not find it.
If someone has the address I would be grateful.
Jerry
Flying Hi - Wish I was
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
It is at
http://www.sun-n-fun.com
Tony
> I know its not a chat group but I think there is a Sun and Fun web site and
> I could not find it.
> If someone has the address I would be grateful.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> Flying Hi - Wish I was
> jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
> http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/26/97
Time: 13:07:33 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
>> If you ensure that nothing will move then you may get way with it.<<
You can fit the top, using Clecos, then rig the wings and set the lift pins in
place. Check for twist in the fuzz fore and aft at all stages. Finally take the
top of and do all the other jobs before gluing it back on.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
>>Regarding Nav-Aid autopilots talk to David Dufton (no 16) or Tom Sinclair
(no 50) who have both fitted them.<<
So have I, 3 of them.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hs" <htnbetkf(at)netcomuk.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
"Peter S. Lert" wrote
On the other hand, if the 150-hp version of the Zoche aero diesel
ever becomes available (weighs less than the 914!), snip
any additional news or details on this Zoche engine pls?
Haluk
Aviation -
Growth Industry in Turkey and Central Asia!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hs" <htnbetkf(at)netcomuk.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> wrote
I once said to a friend who designs engines (RB211s) snip
any chanceyour friend might be on the list so we can ask questions
of interest on jet engine design?
Haluk
End of message ....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
> The first is attached below, and simply requires builders to countersink a
>hole through the spar from 5mm on one wing to 15 mm on the other.
Let me try to put your mind at rest concerning the depth of counterbore in
the port spar for the AN4-31A bolt to carry the CS15P bearing. I agree that
my wording of counterboring "slightly deeper" may have been the trigger for
all the e-mail traffic on this subject. The counterbore cuts through the
shear web of the spar, which is only about 1.5mm thick, therefore the depth
of counterbore is irrelevant. The interruption in the shear web caused by
the 19mm hole does not put the spar in jeopardy. The marine ply core which
is counterbored provides a shear medium for the upper and lower spar caps,
and holds the spar caps apart. This discussion has prompted me to call for
the counterbored holes to be filled with flox, and the manual will be
amended accordingly.
>
>The second topic was the one where a factory endorsed fix for a short rudder
>was to slice the fuselage in several locations and pull it up to match the
>rudder. The only opinion I have read about this method was very well put,
>and in my opinion quite restrained, something to do with a kitchen table.
>
Regaring the issue of the rudder, I think that the story has been distorted
in the repeated telling.
The customer in question was mainly unhappy with the gap he found between
the port side of the rudder and the rear flange of the fuselage. He did
also regard the rudder to be too short.
In his desire to reduce this gap he requested that he may modify the rear
fuselage, which was approved as there was no aerodynamic or other detriment.
This modification was not required by Europa, and of the nearly 300
customers working on their fuselages, this particular request has been made
only once.
Since this issue has started to be heavily discussed I have checked a number
of Europas and found there to be variations in the dimension from fin tip to
the bottom of the fuselage. The minimum was 135.4 cm and the maximum 137
cm. Clearly this scatter is caused by variations in the jointing of the
fin, upper and lower fuselage mouldings.
There will be a slight gap between the lower edge of the rudder and the
fuselage bottom, otherwise the rudder may foul the fuselage. A small step
here certainly won't create extra drag as the airflow will be separated here
already.
I hope this answers the concerns raised on these two points.
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Internet site for Europa. |
>To whom it may concern.
>
>My father is currently in the process of purchasing one of the europa kits
>and has heard from a colleague that there is a help page available
>through the internet. Unfortunately he is not computer literate! He has
>asked me to try and find out where the net site for this is. I wonder if
>you could help me with this matter?
>
>I can be contacted through this email number or he (Mr Bob Harrison) can
>be contacted through telephone/fax; 01472 851987
>
>Thanking you in anticipation
>
>Yours sincerely
>
>Zoe Harrison
25 Feb.97
Dear Zoe,
Thanks for your e-mail.
Our URL is HTTP://www.europa-aviation.co.uk and our e-mail address is
enquiries@europa-aviation.co.uk. We also have a customer in New Zealand
called Tony Krzyzewski, who is keeping a diary complete with pictures. I
have only seen a bit of his site but it is well worth a look, his URL is
http://www.kaon.co.nz and his e-mail address is tonyk@kaon.co.nz.
We also know of another builder, in Holland, whose URL is
http://www.loginet.nl/europa/
I hope you will find this useful - and that your father will enjoy "surfing
the net" before flying his Europa !
Best regards,
Nathalie Egan
Europa Aviation
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John O'Connor" <OCONNORJ(at)btmaa.bel.alcatel.be> |
| Subject: | stics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
This question isn't really specific to a Europa. It could apply to any
kit but I think that this is the best place to ask and I intend to
apply the answer to a Europa.
Work moves me around Europe but at least I generally have some choice
as to where. I aim to start off with the stage 1 kit in the summer when
my next assignement will begin and I'd hope to have it finished by the
time that I finish the assignment.
So, I am facing the question of which country to pick out of Western
Europe. Are there any in which building a kit plane is such a bad idea
that I should avoid them? The things that matter are of course
inspections, registering and flying an aircraft and also, what happens
if I build the stage 1 kit in (say) the Netherlands and then move on to
Germany for the next stage?
From the point of view of restrictions on use and maintainence, is
there much to choose from between the countries? I know, for example,
that a UK registered homebuilt may not be used other than for daytime
VFR and that a recovery 'chute is not allowed whereas the latter is
allowed (mandatory?) in Germany.
Also, how much space and how many hours are needed for the stage 1 kit?
Clearly, I'd need to make sure that the length of my next contract and
whatever accommodation I rent both fit in.
Regards
John O'Connor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Zoche has a website--I don't have the URL handy at the moment, but any
search engine will find it. Search on "Zoche aero diesel."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
I'm hardly a nationalist, but I think one of the few areas in
which the USA is markedly superior to most other countries is the way the
FAA treats homebuilders.
That being said, and not knowing your nationality: if you're by
any chance American (or married to one, etc.), you might consider
building, or at least finishing, the airplane in some country that has an
onsite FAA office (like the one in Frankfurt), having it inspected by the
local FAA types, registering it with an N-number, and enjoying all the
advantages of American homebuilt aircraft ownership.
Aside from that, it would probably be to your advantage if you
could build near other Europa builders and be in contact with them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spinner centralisation. |
In a message dated 24/02/97 23:49:48, you write:
>It all puts a premium on accurately fitting the cowls<
Yes, I seem to have ended up with a good fit, but too little room around the
front nevertheless. Very difficult to keep the starboard radiator away from
the exhaust outlet that side, from the fuel pump, and from the cowling lower
starboard. Luckily there is nothing to stop one raising the right radiator
(on pillars if the supports are already glassed in). This allows the hose to
ride over the interfering fuel pump a bit and gives clearance on the other
bits.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Internet site for Europa. |
We also have a customer in New Zealand
> called Tony Krzyzewski, who is keeping a diary complete with pictures. I
> have only seen a bit of his site but it is well worth a look, his URL is
> http://www.kaon.co.nz and his e-mail address is tonyk@kaon.co.nz.
Zoe,
The direct pointer to my builders log is
http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/27/97
Time: 06:28:36 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
wrote:
> > This question isn't really specific to a Europa. It could apply to any
> > kit but I think that this is the best place to ask and I intend to
> > apply the answer to a Europa.
> >
> > Work moves me around Europe but at least I generally have some choice
> > as to where. I aim to start off with the stage 1 kit in the summer when
> > my next assignement will begin and I'd hope to have it finished by the
> > time that I finish the assignment.
> >
> > So, I am facing the question of which country to pick out of Western
> > Europe. Are there any in which building a kit plane is such a bad idea
> > that I should avoid them? The things that matter are of course
> > inspections, registering and flying an aircraft and also, what happens
> > if I build the stage 1 kit in (say) the Netherlands and then move on to
> > Germany for the next stage?
>
I would think that the main issue is where you intend to register your aircraft.
It is the aviation authority in that country that has the final say on whether
you can fly your aircraft.
If that is going to be your home country of Belgium then you should contact the
appropriate authority and get a proper statement from them regarding your build
plans.
I suspect that they will simply insist that you build according to their standards.
Of course if they insist on regular checks by a registered Belgian inspector this
may cause you some difficulty.
The last thing you want to do is spend three or four years building and then
discover that you can't fly your plane!
Tony
#272
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/27/97
Time: 06:51:28 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry Peter, just made it up following a recent theme - If I Had My Time Over
aGain ( and didn't notice I'd fumbled the last letter !)
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
In a message dated 26/02/97 08:47:24, you write:
>this particular request has been made only once< (slitting the lower
fuselage).
Mebbe, but done more than once ! - e.g. me with inspector's approval..
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Using modern data extraction techniques your Internet
Email Geekspeak Pre Processor (IEGPP) if installed would have translated this to
Damn! Next time I build a Europa I will....
TAFN (That's All For Now)
TK (Tony)
> Sorry Peter, just made it up following a recent theme - If I Had My Time Over
> aGain ( and didn't notice I'd fumbled the last letter !)
>
> Graham C.
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/27/97
Time: 07:20:26 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Networkers Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | e Metal Treatment |
Am I right in concluding that the hinges supplied are already anodised? If
so I can certainly vouch for how hard it is to sand off. I thought it was
oxydisation until reading my Spruce Catalogue to find that their MS200001P5
hinge (ours supplied is MS200001-5) is already anodised finish. Can someone
either confirm or deny??
Thanks in anticipation
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Metal Treatment |
>Am I right in concluding that the hinges supplied are already anodised?
>Tony Renshaw
Yes Tony, all the supplied hinges in the Europa kit are anodised. You should
be able to get the ones that you sanded re-anodised though, as it is only a
surface treatment, or you could treat them with alodine.
David Watts, 229.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | eff Ellis out there? |
I had an e-mail from:
"Jeff Ellis"
some time ago about Europa Club membership. I sent a holding message, and
have tried recently to respond fully, but that address is now generating
"user unknown" delivery failure messages. He left no snail-mail address.
If you are out there somewhere, Jeff, please make contact with me again
direct by private e-mail.
Apologies to everyone else for such an uninteresting message!
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
>> Are there any in which building a kit plane is such a bad idea that I should
avoid them?<<
Yes, almost certainly. UK is not too bad, France possible, Holland there are
questions in my mind, Belgium not good, I understand. Switzerland possible also
Germany.
Peter Lert's suggstion may well be the best, but you probably need a US
passport.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
Not to forget the immortal TANSTAAFL--
There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch
(originally popularized, if not actually coined, by Robert A. Heinlein)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> >> Are there any in which building a kit plane is such a bad idea that I should
> avoid them?<<
>
> Yes, almost certainly.
> Peter Lert's suggstion may well be the best, but you probably need a US
> passport.
> Graham
>
...or at least a US "resident alien" green card. Or, you might consider
an American "strawman" (or woman) to be the registered owner of record.
A lot of European operators of "real" airplanes set up "a corporation in
a Post Office box," often in the US state of Delaware where it's very
inexpensive (around $50) to own aircraft operated in Europe with
N-numbers. Don't know if it would work for an Experimental.
Actually, I used to own one of the coolest N-numbers: N1KE. Had it on a
sailplane for years until a certain running shoe company with a
Gulfstream IV made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Still have the
sailplane, though...not to mention a closet full of running shoes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John O'Connor" <OCONNORJ(at)btmaa.bel.alcatel.be> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: Logistics, |
not technical. Where to build a Europa?
Tony commented:
> I would think that the main issue is where you intend to register your aircraft.
But that is one of the issues up for grabs. I'm sure that I could
do so in the UK where I have a house, family, passport and PPL.
I expect that I could do so in France where I have a house and on
occasion, a family.
If I go to the US to get an IR, I suppose that I could do so there
as well.
I guess that the Kiwis would let me do so in the land of my birth
too.
There must also be lots of countries in the EU which I could select
if I was working there when I did final assembly.
All I really know is that the construction of the kit is likely to
pass through several countries.
Regards
John O'Connor
(who genuinely does not know which country he will be working in as
of the 1st of August!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Reynaud" <Carl_Reynaud(at)ccmail.eo.ray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Metal Treatment |
>Am I right in concluding that the hinges supplied are already
anodised?
I've already been thro' this loop, and Yes the hinges are anodised,
the quick check is with a multimeter set to measure resisitance.
Anodised parts will have a very high surface resistance, hope this
helps.
Carl #159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Att. Jim Thursby
> It's been 3 months Tony, but I believe I mixed a total of 150 grams for
>each side of the rudder. I mixed 100 first, and a 50 gram batch, and
>probably wasted 10-30 grams. Not including slurry. I went out and weighed
>all my parts tonight and here it is:
>rudder-1828.0 grams with hinges and a taillight fairing.
>tailplanes-3893.6, 3901.0 grams without tabs, but with bushings.
>tabs-470.2, 468.9 grams with hinges.
>aileron-1176.5grams with hinges, without balances.( other one has balances
>installed.)
>flaps-2810.4, 2822.1grams with FL 1,2 and 3 installed.
Jim,
Thanks for going to all the trouble!
I havent got the #5 Issue you speak of, the Europa Club Newsletter anyway.
I have only been a member since about Issue #8/9.
> Being a Yank and all that, my metric is a little rusty, but I think your
>weight of 1535 grams is 1.535kilograms, and is within limits. I weigh all
>my parts on a electronic sartorius scale, accurate to 1/10 of a gram in
>5000. grams. Let me know how your next layups go. Hope this helps.
Certainly will. I think my rudder may come out heavy, but the fibre
orientation is "as straight as a bullet!" I will try placing the cloth onto
the foam dry, and squeegeeing the resin through. Is this the way you did it???
With your metal components, what radius did you file the corners. The flap
hinges for example, I would imagine would look best if they were basically
fully rounded as they will be seen. What tools did you choose to do your filing?
I look forward to hearing from you when you get a moment.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>
>
> Jim Thursby
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | ht System Reliability |
Aircraft Electrical Systems:
a Philosophy for Reliability
I have presented numerous forums at Oshkosh, EAA chapter meetings
and kit type gatherings around the country on the topic of electri-
cal system reliability. This is a prominent issue on most aircraft
builder's list of concerns for several reasons: First, the electri-
cal system is generally the least understood of all airplane sys-
tems. Second, some electrical system components are useful (if not
critical) to safe termination of flight during an electrical system
failure.
I will often begin a presentation with questions to the audience
about their own ideas for achieving reliable operation. It's not
surprising to find heavy emphasis on quality (cost) of components
and workmanship. Nearly every magazine on electrical system fabrica-
tion or installation will list tasks to be accomplished or mistakes
to be avoided in the interest of producing a reliable installation.
Reliability discussions often include matters of cost, convenience,
and perceptions founded on incomplete or inaccurate data. For this
article to arrive at its intended conclusion, let us agree that a
reliable flight system permits comfortable termination of flight
(preferably at the intended destination) irrespective of any single
failure of a system component.
It's easy to visualize a situation where one airplane owner is
always doing some kind of work on his airplane but seems to fly
where he wants when he wants without mishap. Contrast this with
another pilot who suffers maintenance conditions causing repairs off
his home base. Worse yet, his problems may precipitate unplanned
arrivals with the earth! These airplanes may be identical and
experience the same problems. Never-the-less, when compared with the
other, one of these aircraft might be perceived very unreliable.
I've often asked groups of pilots and builders to prioritize their
personal flight system reliability requirements. The first consen-
sus is that airframe failures of any type are not tolerable; design
goals require an airframe to withstand normal operations with an
expectation of zero failures. Airframe systems include structure,
skin, gear, flight controls, etc. Second on most everyone's list is
the power plant which would include engine, prop, fuel system,
ignition, etc. The electrical system usually comes in third. Under
electrical systems, people tend to jump on radios as "most desira-
ble."
Consider please my personal list:
I. Airframe
(1) Structure
(2) Flight Controls
(3) Flight Instruments
(a) Airspeed
(b) Turn Coord.
(c) Compass
(d) Altimeter
(e) Gyros
(f) etc.
(3) Gear
(4) etc.
II. Pilot/Builder
(1) Skills
(2) Knowledge
(3) Health
III. Power Plant
(1) Engine
(2) Prop
(3) Ignition
(4) Fuel System
(5) etc.
IV. Electrical System
(1) Battery
(2) Instrument Lights
(3) Turn Coordinator
(4) Engine Support (boost pumps . .
etc.)
(5) Nav/ILS/Comm
(6) Transponder (optional)
(7) Landing Light
(8) Alternator
(9) Position and Strobe Lights
(10) Stereo System
Note that I have added the pilot and his/her "subsystems" at II on
the list. First, consider that when everything thing else (lower on
the list) has gone belly-up, an adequately trained and proficient
pilot has an excellent chance of living to tell the grand-children a
true life, wing-and-a-prayer survival story! The pilot's tool box
must contain knowledge and skills along with a body capable of
utilizing them. Note also that electrical systems and components
thereof are a distant fourth place on the list. Other items are
conspicuous by their absence. Note that engine instrumentation and
fuel gauges are not even on the list. I know of no immediate hazard
to flight posed by failure of these kinds of devices. I do not imply
that electrical systems need not be reliable. I just want to place
them in proper perspective with respect to other flight systems.
Further, I do emphasize a pilot's very important position as a
component in the total flight system.
Your personal list may vary from mine as well it should, provided
you have a rational basis for development along different lines,
unique to your assets. One goal of this article is to suggest tools
for development of your own reliability priorities list. Accom-
plishment requires knowledge of personal needs and skills combined
with an intimate familiarity with your airplane's systems and per-
formance envelopes. This, ladies and gentlemen, is what separates
us from Pilot John Public who has become bored with scuba diving and
decides it would be nice to add flying to his recreational activi-
ties.
As builder/pilots we are permitted alternate approaches to systems
design. Powers-that-be recognize that a majority of Pilot John
Public will never be as familiar with their airplanes as you are
with yours! The inference to be drawn suggests that our personal
flight systems are automatically more reliable. I would say it's
true to a point. It's a sure bet that most of us do understand more
about airplanes than the general pilot population; after all it's
our avocation, perhaps even vocation.
Consider that most of us learned to fly in certified, production
airplanes. We are not permitted to modify these airplanes, they're
accepted as-is. Furthermore, these machines were certified under
rules giving Pilot John Public the best possible chances of survival
knowing that for some, piloting skills (from the systems viewpoint)
will not advance beyond manipulation of levers and knobs.
Since most of us learned to fly in the padded-cockpit environment,
it is possible that we bring detrimental attitudes with us into
amateur-built aviation. For example: existence of a pilot's operat-
ing handbook with mandated topics is intended to afford great com-
fort as we launch into the blue. By federal decree, everything we
must know about that airplane is between covers of the book! If you
can recite emergency procedures, performance and weight/balance
calculations in your sleep, your spouse and offspring may wave you
off wearing broad smiles. These attitudes have been mulched into
fertile soil for the plaintiff bar. "Well now, Mr. Cessna, explain
to this court and jury why you didn't . . . . ."
The most important attribute to be cultivated in amateur built
aviation is the ability to think beyond the present in considering
all "what-if?" scenarios. Yeah, I know, as students we were all
admonished to "stay ahead of the airplane," that's not what I'm
talking about. What-if's I am considering relate to pieces and
parts of the airplane. For example: when building, modifying or
just maintaining any part of your airplane, operate two progressions
of thought. The first involves doing a quality job on a task at
hand. The second is, "what if this part fails?" Go over the ways in
which the part may fail and deduce whether or not any failure
presents a hazard to successful termination of flight. Analyze how
the failure will manifest itself to the pilot (handling qualities,
strange noises, engine roughness, dead radio, etc. etc.) And final-
ly, is the failure pre-flight detectable?
While designing products for the big guys, I've expended hundreds of
hours going over these points. The fancy name for this procedure is
Failure Mode Effects Analysis or FMEA for short. If any failure
does present a hazard, what is the best means for dealing with it?
Re-design may be in order. Example: if the head of a broken screw
is likely to drop into an intake manifold, perhaps a nut plate
installed to bring the screw in from the other side is in order. If
a failure is not pre-flight detectable, is the item is buried too
deep to visually inspect or simply not on your check list?
Note:
Whether you fly factory or home-built airplanes, published check
lists are the MINIMUM to meet bureaucratic and/or institutional
requirements. Nobody says you cannot EXPAND an existing list to
cover items you'd like to peek at before launch time.
Let's suppose failure of an item simply makes some component or
system inoperative. Can you do without it? If not, what system
backs it up? In other words, develop a "plan B" perhaps even "plan
C" to back up most needed components and systems.
This technique is applicable to all airframe systems but let's get
back to the original topic of electrical systems. Referring to the
list I gave earlier, let us agree that if the airframe is in good
shape, engine is running well, you are skilled, rested and ate your
Wheaties this morning, there's no reason for this to become a bad
day in the cockpit. Let's examine the electrical system priorities
in my earlier list:
Numero uno is the battery; your single most reliable source of power
(assuming the battery has been properly maintained). Next comes
instrument lights. Why lights? Recall the admonition: "Aviate,
navigate, then communicate?" "Aviating" at night becomes a jaw
breaking chore of aiming a flashlight with your teeth. Therefore,
number two on my list is instrument flood lighting. I would choose
not to power up a 3-amp string of post lights. Instead, use one or
two, 80-milliamp bulbs rigged to flood the panel with basic light-
ing. Instrument lights on a C-150 are just that. Not elegant but
they work, consume little power and don't make your lower jaw ache.
Flashlights are good only for peering into fuel tanks and reading
maps!
Number three is the turn-coordinator; quite often your only electri-
cally driven flight instrument and capable of literally saving your
buns (you ARE current in needle, ball and airspeed technique, no?).
Fourth, I would support any electrical item needed to keep the
engine running such as electronic ignition (if you have one) and
fuel boost pump. Putting these devices on the list of "essential"
equipment recognizes a remote possibility of double failure . . . an
electrical system condition followed by an engine condition.
Aha! We finally get to THE radio; not the whole 20 kilo-buck stack
of avionics. Remember, we're trying to get home on a power budget
with finite limits. It does you little credit to navigate to final
approach fix with millimeter precision and have everything go dark
over the outer marker! Until favorable outcome of your adventure is
assured, don't turn on anything you don't truly NEED. See why a
PILOT must included in a systems reliability equation? A better
understanding or a little practice may be key to reducing a hazard-
ous situation to a challenging inconvenience.
The transponder I list as optional. Recall that it is more a serv-
ice to ATC than it is to you. It benefits you only if you need ATC
assistance in navigating which assumes he isn't tracking you as a
primary target. Even then, the transponder doesn't do you any good
if you're not talking to the ground and it uses much more energy
than your navigation receiver. However, if you do have the power
budget, a 7600 or 7700 squawk may get you more elbow room.
Landing light is another optional consideration. If you're headed
for an unlighted field or you haven't honed your skills for night
landings without light, then illuminating a landing light just
before you flare is justified (Consider your own personal FMEA, what
will you do if the bulb is out?).
Next is the alternator because it has to be running if you're going
to have any external lights on. [Assume the alternator to be least
reliable of all electrical equipment. It handles lots of electrical
and mechanical power, it sees extremes of temperature cycles and
gets its itty-bitty diodes rattled by being bolted to the engine!
What else could we do to it?] Nav lights use more ENERGY than any
other system in your airplane including landing lights, electric
flaps or landing gear! Six to eight amps continuous drain for the
duration of flight. Even a strobe light may draw more than your
entire compliment of necessary radios. External lights do not help
you get where you are going and have a very low probability of being
useful for being seen. If YOU have the problem and YOU are flying
"dark", then keep your own eyes peeled for the guy who presently
enjoys a luxury of showing external lights!
Now that I've outlined one philosophy of electrical essentials.
Let's consider the hammer-and-tongs aspects of implementing it.
In Figure 1, (see February 93 issue of Sport Aviation or drop 32-
cent SASE to address below. I'll be happy to send you a paper copy
of the figure.) I show a basic power distribution diagram illustrat-
ing the foregoing text. To begin with, if we've done our FMEA
exercise, a way is needed to KNOW when the alternator has failed.
If no device already exists to give an active warning of alternator
failure then consider a low voltage warning light mounted prominent-
ly on the panel. Further, this device should be set to illuminate
the light very soon after alternator failure; when voltage falls
below 13 volts.
When the light does come on, you have several options: If comfort-
able haven is close by and your battery is a known quantity, then
perhaps no special action is needed other than to turn the alterna-
tor off to reduce its field circuit load on the battery. It would
be wise at this time to dump unnecessary loads but a fairly relaxed
activity to get on the ground is appropriate. Most alternators re-
quire a battery to be on line for voltage stabilization and noise
reduction. If (for a variety of reasons) the battery contactor
fails to keep the battery on line, the alternator should be shut
down and ordinary load reductions made.
In event of either alternator OR battery contactor failure, AND if a
desired location for landing is some distance away, make the most of
finite energy stored in the battery. Open both BATTERY MASTER &
ALTERNATOR switches. Pull the ESSENTIAL BUS PRIMARY FEED breaker
and close the ESSENTIAL BUS ALTERNATE FEED breakers. Taking a
battery contactor off-line reduces load on the battery by several
hundred milliamps (equal to several solid state nav receivers!).
Setting the breakers in this manner isolates the essential bus and
provides a direct path to the battery. If a voltmeter is part of
your electrical instrumentation, it should feed from the essential
bus; battery voltage should be monitored during battery only opera-
tions.
Figure 1 illustrates a number of departures from traditional tech-
niques for aircraft power distribution. The most notable variant is
the lack of an AVIONICS MASTER, a device who's time has gone by.
This (and other features) will be topics for future articles. In
the mean time, if you subscribe to the avionics master switch phi-
losophy, certainly all avionics may be fed from the essential bus
and "protected" by opening the PRIMARY FEED breaker during engine
cranking. Just remember, when battery life needs to be maximized,
turn OFF everything not truly needed to get you home.
All this writing may seem like a long way around to a rather simple
concept. I suggest that it's truly simple only if one understands
how it is used and useful only if it adequately addresses require-
ments established by personal FMEA studies. Primary goals for this
article are (1) to encourage builder/pilots to accomplish FMEA
studies in light of their equipment and personal skills, (2) relieve
pressure to purchase the most expensive components in an effort to
improve "reliability", (3) encourage design for failure tolerance
(cheap) instead of striving for failure proof (very expensive and
nearly impossible). Properly implemented, these techniques will
reduce to near zero, probability that any electrical problem will
ruin your day.
The original article text was uploaded without modification. Since
the article was published, conversations and deliberations with
other designers and builders have modified the philosophy somewhat.
We now believe that the normal feedpath from main bus to essential
bus should include a diode that *prevents* the essential bus from
backfeeding the main bus. Poor pilot technique during a perceived
emergency could result in inadverted overloading of essential bus
alternate feed path and leaving one totally in the dark! Given that
the original need for avionics master switches disappeard about 15
years ago, the idea of making a solid connection between main bus
and essential bus via diode makes sense. Any time the main bus is
hot, the essential bus is too. The main bus can be shut down at any
time to conserve finite battery energy with zero risk of backfeeding
from the essential bus and blowing the altnernate feed protection.
Comments and discussion are welcome!
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| Nuckolls' first law of air- |
| craft systems design and fab-|
| rication: "Things break!" |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
daps?
Was ist einer dap?
Tony
Sorry, 'daps' is slang for Trainers, plimsoles, soft shoes etc., often used in
South Wales (that's the bit that sticks out to the left hand side of England).
No I'm not Welsh!
Dave & Margaret Watson
(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Scherer" <ToSSi(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
----------
From: owner-europa(at)avnet.co.uk on behalf of Peter S. Lert
Subject: Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa?
I'm hardly a nationalist, but I think one of the few areas in
which the USA is markedly superior to most other countries is the way the
FAA treats homebuilders.
That is if you subscribe to the government's position as staying out of
private business as much as possible. In Europe we insist on the government's
role as protectors of the individual - notwithstanding the harm one might do
to others in a densly populated area. Don't get me wrong though, I am a German
enjoying the benefits in the states myself...
an onsite FAA office (like the one in Frankfurt), having it inspected by the
local FAA types, registering it with an N-number, and enjoying all the
advantages of American homebuilt aircraft ownership.
Know however, that all N'numbers in Germany are classified into the worst
noise level class with all the consequences of landing fees, no nite flying
(doesn't work with homebuilts anyhow) and even closed airports.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ing the instrument module |
There are a few traps in fitting the instrument module which may not be all
that obvious.
Firstly it will be found that the unit is somewhat flexible as delivered.
But after internals such as frames for radios/transponders etc.are built in,
the extra rigidity which arises may mean that it can no longer be made to
conform to the shape which matches your bolt holes if you have mounted it
without the radio equipment.
Secondly, the natural and neatest line for cables/pitot
lines/fuel-gauge-return ( running horizontally from under the door sills)
disappears into the gap between the module and the cabin wall. Unfortunately
this gap narrows to virtually zero at the front so any conduit used has to be
stopped short. (it is very difficult to shorten a conduit containg cables,
epoxied to the sidewall ! ). It is probably best to preform plastic conduit
to dip below the module soon after it has entered the gap. It is most
unfortunate that further aft, the strengthening pillars for the forward lift
pins intersect this line. ( factory - can conduit be glassed through this
pillar without weakening it unacceptably ?)
Then there is the upholstery trap. In addition to making cutouts for the top
u/c frame attachment bolts, ensure that nothing is put on the top of the
tunnel in this region, as the base of the module scrapes along it and will
want all the space it can get here.
It is advisable to leave the attachment arrangement for the lower edges of
the module until everything is finished. It is well known that the top edge
of the footwell is badly placed for a simple bolt-through here so "making a
joggle" ( as the good book says ) needs to be done when the position is
final. The tunnel will support the unit well enough until then.
A panel for the choke mounting seems unnecessary as the cable has a flange
fitting which is easily pulled up to a hole and secured with the nut before
adding the knob. The knbob if a tunnel mounted throttle comes very close the
instrument module, so beware conflicts with the choke or any switches. The
choke is readily hidden away low in the u/c lever well, saving front panel
space.
Instrument fitting is necessarily left to tbe builders personal fancy and
some examples of wiring of early Europas have been published. The common
Narco ATR150 it is close to being too long in most positions. Fireproof
sockets mounted on the firewall itself removes the need for a mounting
plate and cables running through holes. A 100 mm. hole in the instr. module
above the passengers left foot can be used to make the connections without
having long loose straggling lines inside.
Quite a number of builders have now produced their own solutions to this
open-ended part of Europa building, so I hope the above will prompt them into
sharing their experiences with us.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Logistics, not technical. Where to build a Europa? |
"LBA--Festung der deutschen Beamtenmentalitaet"
________________________________________________________________________________
------------693E6CB55A080
Dave Watson wrote:
>
> Sorry, 'daps' is slang for Trainers, plimsoles, soft shoes etc., often
used in South Wales
And in Wiltshire, too -- no I'm not a moonraker !
--
Martin W. Berner, 26 Mayfield Road, Valsayn Park, Trinidad, The West
Indies.
------------693E6CB55A080
Dave Watson wrote:
Sorry, 'daps' is slang for Trainers, plimsoles, soft shoes etc., often
used in South Wales
And in Wiltshire, too -- no I'm not a moonraker !
--
Martin W. Berner, 26 Mayfield Road, Valsayn Park, Trinidad, The West Indies.
Only the young die good
------------693E6CB55A080--
________________________________________________________________________________
You will find that aftermarket pistons such as the weisco pistons have less
seizures than the rotax originals and require less decarbonizing as the upper
ring is not a L shape that traps carbon. You also have the option of going to
.060 overbore on your engine which gives you more rebuilds on the barrels.
Rotax ( Kodiac Research ) almost fired me for revealing this fact years ago
and still deny that you will get more horse power and greater longevity using
the WEISCO pistons. This is a known fact that Weisco makes performance
pistons and has been as long as Rotax. Further to this Weisco pistons can be
puchased through any motorcycle shop or Bombardier repair outlet. Just make
sure you use the Rotax wrist pin bearing instead of the snowmachine one. Hope
this helps you. If you have any other requests feel free to contact me. Scott
Tomlinson 403-457-7368 ( Aerotech Design Mfg. ) or by E-mail
fuzzer5(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hs" <htnbetkf(at)netcomuk.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: rotax pistons |
From: SRadke1(at)aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 12:41:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: rotax pistons
You will find that aftermarket pistons such as the weisco pistons have less
seizures than the rotax originals and require less decarbonizing as the upper
ring is not a L shape that traps carbon. You also have the option of going to
.060 overbore on your engine which gives you more rebuilds on the barrels.
Rotax ( Kodiac Research ) almost fired me for revealing this fact years ago
and still deny that you will get more horse power and greater longevity using
the WEISCO pistons. This is a known fact that Weisco makes performance
pistons and has been as long as Rotax. Further to this Weisco pistons can be
puchased through any motorcycle shop or Bombardier repair outlet. Just make
sure you use the Rotax wrist pin bearing instead of the snowmachine one. Hope
this helps you. If you have any other requests feel free to contact me. Scott
Tomlinson 403-457-7368 ( Aerotech Design Mfg. ) or by E-mail
fuzzer5(at)aol.com
What does Aerotech Design Mfg design or manf?
Regards
Haluk
Aviation -
Growth Industry in Turkey and Central Asia!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian D. Sumner" <bsumner(at)mis.net> |
| Subject: | l Price of Europa |
Hello All,
I am presently considering purchasing a kitplane and my initial browsing
has the Europa in the lead. My biggest criteria is finding a nice plane
with performance exceeding that of the typical Cessna and possibly
costing less. I have seen the Rotax 912 listed for ~ $8500 and I was
wondering what the typical cost of everything else was (i.e. Eurpoa
Kit, Avionics, etc.....)?
Please reply to mail list, bsumner(at)mis.net, or bsumner(at)searnet.com.
Thanks in advance for your reply(s)
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Price of Europa |
Boy, if you can still find a 912 for $8500, snap it up--if you decide
against the Europa, you can probably sell it to one of us!
To put it very simply, for a really nice Europa, you probably won't have
too much change left over from $45,000 unless you're a good scrounger
and/or have some parts (instruments, avionics, etc.) already on hand.
If you go for fancy instruments and avionics (heavy!), etc., the
sky's the limit. Here's a very rough breakdown:
Kit, complete: ca. 23,000 depending on price increases
shipping: 1,500 or so depending on where you live and
on whether you get everything at once
tools: 1,500 incl. resin pump
paint: 2,500 for a professional job
instruments: 3,000
avionics (basic) 3,000 (comm, VFR gps, transponder, headsets)
upholstery 700
trailer (opt) 2,500
engine 8,500
prop 500 or so, fixed pitch--way more for variable
People don't build Europas to save money--you could get an old
Bonanza for less! We build them because (a) a Europa is what we want,
and (b) building it is what we want to do. Hope you join us!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ashby-Arnold <101477.2077(at)compuserve.com> |
New member here ,
Based at Boroughbridge in North Yorkshire,
Has anyone got a used resin pump they would like to sell?
I can be contacted on 01423 340398 (Home) or 01653 694699 (Office).
Thanking you in anticipation,
Michael AA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
instrument panel:
> factory - can conduit be glassed through this
>pillar without weakening it unacceptably ?)
I am afraid you mustn't interrupt the forward lift pin stiffener. You will
to go around it with your cables.
Regards
Andy
>
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
In message <1.5.4.16.19970305091653.362f232a(at)post.europa-
aviation.co.uk>, europa aviation ltd writes
>You will
>to go around it with your cables.
It's not a problem really. I used domestic self adhesive capped cable
trunking with a break at the strentheners. With carpet over it, you
can't tell.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Price of Europa |
>> We build them because (a) a Europa is what we want,
and (b) building it is what we want to do. Hope you join us!<<
I would only add, "those of us who are flying our Europas are definitely HAVING
FUN."
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
>Can anyone venture a guess on why a remote antenna for a GPS unit
>costs $300 to $400???
Sure, if it's an ACTIVE antenna . . . amplifier built into
the base and powered either by special coupler that
carries power up the coax -or- separate leads to the
power bus.
Passive antennas are much less expensive and can even
be constructed by the amateur builder. A gentleman gave
a forum at OSH last year on this topic. I'm trying
to track down the information and make it downloadable
from our website.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
Has anyone near Sherburn in Elmet got one of these fitted. I suspect
there is a fault on mine. I know I could send it away for checking, but
I tried this with my transponder which was definitely faulty as
confirmed by one of Terra's authorised agents - trouble is they now seem
to have lost the unit!!
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
Flying Hi - Wish I was
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
I am not sure where your prices come from but we sell GPS antennas for a
fraction of that cost. From less than 60 dollars for both active and
passive antennas.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
In a message dated 05/03/97 12:54:00, you write:
>With carpet over it, you
>can't tell.
No doubt that helps but there must still be a bump. I abandoned carpet in
this area anyway as the edge is impossible to trap under the door rubbers.
In fact it's almost impossible to trap anything under it ! In its delivered
state it closely fits the fuselage edge. I spent some time levering it open,
which is qute difficult to do unifomly. I suppose
the carpet edge wouild hide under the sill if your conduit is shallow enough
or you could leave the conduit exposed and paint it..
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
In a message dated 05/03/97 09:34:50, you write:
>I am afraid you mustn't interrupt the forward lift pin stiffener.
I'm surprised at that, as the innards are only foam. I was envisaging a tube
solidly embedded in it, without interrupting the glassing except at the entry
and exit holes in the narrow sides where it would be coned onto to the tube.
Difficult to stress that no doubt.
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | standard trailer. |
Having limited space nearby, I have been in the habit putting the aircraft on
the trailer without the wings attached. Although I use dummy wing spars with
stabilising wheels, these have to be removed to run the wheel up the ramp.
At this time the aircraft is laterally unstable and one must be careful to
avoid runaway - certainly not a job for one, or even two people with safety.
Once on the trailer the hinged arms for the carrrying the wings can provide
some lateral stability, especially if you add padded filler blocks at the
top, but they are not designed for sideway loads. Mine have certainly bent,
and I have beard of a case where one departed completely in transit. Welding
plates across the bottom improves this situation.
I have moved the hinge of the ramp forward) to allow better overlap on the
u/c arm but it is still pretty small. I understand this is due to an
increase in the tyre size since the trailer was designed. Straps at least
should be used around the u/c arm to prevent bouncing but it might be better
to add side plates at the top large enough to allow a cross-bar trapping
the u/c arm from above. The tail is also very light without crew aboaord
and strapping down is again virtually essential.
With everything secure the trailer travels very well. It is well balanced and
the wedge disposition of the wings seems to stablise it in the airstream and
minimise drag. With the prop on backwards it would make quite a dragster
(:-))).
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>> I know I could send it away for checking<<
I sent two units direct to Terra a couple years ago. They gave me excellent
service, very quick and even repaired one FOC. It had had a fault since new in
1985, never spotted cos the unit wasn't tested until 93.
Some agents are not very efficient, or effective. OTH I can recommend Gulf Coast
Avionics (Tampa)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ashby-Arnold <101477.2077(at)compuserve.com> |
Hi,
I folks am still looking for a resin pump.
Would prefer used one but failing that info on where to purchase a new one in
the U.K. plus what exactly to ask for would be appricated.
Thanking you inanticipation,
Michael AA
PS. Thank you Rolf I've now got the table. Cheers , look forward to meeting you
but athough trying very hard I don't think I will be able make Shurburn on
sunday, But please keep me informed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
I am looking for a good source for trailers for the BanBi which is not
totaly disimilar to the Europa.
I have one option but would like to research several possibilities. Any
leads gratefully received.
Hope my non Europa question doesn't offend you Europaeans
Jerry
Flying Hi - Wish I was
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Total Price of Europa |
In a message dated 05/03/97 23:08:42, you write:
>I would only add, "those of us who are flying our Europas are definitely
HAVING FUN."
Don't/won't believe it 'til you fly it up to Scotland
G (for green)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
Do you want a covered trailer or open? A friend has a closed one with a dormant
Vari Eze in it. He might sell.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
In message <857666334.1024178.0(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk>, Jerry
writes
>
> Flying Hi - Wish I was
> jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
> http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
>
>I am not sure where your prices come from but we sell GPS antennas for a
>fraction of that cost. From less than 60 dollars for both active and
>passive antennas.
Jerry,
tell me more please, email or snailmail at:
67 Greenfield Road
Harborne
Birmingham
B17 0EP
People keep nagging me to design them a simple antenna, trouble is at
this frequency and because of the special polarisation and spectral
needs simple isn't simple. The sort of wheel reinventing I could do
without.
Have in mind a small company in Hull that do good purpose made trailers,
will see if they weathered the recession. Other than that I will try and
remake an old contact with a guy that does all of those trailored
lighting units at motorway roadworks. He is an aviator.
Sounds like you are surviving, are you still out of Thorney Island or
have you moved up to the farm strip west of Winchester (Farley?) which I
would have thought was closer.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | hing Landing Lights |
>> If you'd like to flash a landing light, just buy a three way switch and wire
it
>> to power the lamp either on all the time or through an automotive signal
flasher . . .
>>>This concept may work for low wattage bulbs, but don't try it with 120
>>>Watt halogen bulbs (such as the Bob Olds ligh kit). These bulbs have
>>>operating currents of just over 10 Amps EACH, and an inrush current in
>>>excess of 3 times that.
>An inrush current? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always
>thought of a light bulb as being a purely resistive load. There's an
>instant 10 watt load when you turn it on. No load when you turn it off.
>With two 10 watt lights alternating, you have pretty much a constant
>10 watt load, with some extremley short drops to zero between during switching.
Purely resistive, yes . . . but with a very strong positive temperature
coeffecient. This is easily demonstrated by measuring the cold resistance
of any lamp. For example, I just pulled one from the drawer (NEDA #67)
and it measures 1.8 ohms in my hand. If you applied 14 volts to this
lamp, the initial reading would have to be 14.0/1.8 or 7.8 amps. However,
when I illuminate this lamp with 14.0 volts, my power suppy sez it's
drawing 0.6 amps . . . about 1/10th the "inrush" value.
>>Most heavey duty flashers are designed for switching 4-5 small bulbs
>>(ie, taillight variety).
True, even the so called "heavy" duty are unsuited for flashing
100 watt lamps. . .
>Maybe for a simple turn signal, I haven't spec'd what's available. I
>do know for a fact that police cars and ambulances have an alternate
>flash with their headlights, exactly like I would like the landing lights to
do.
Another rv-list reader suggested school bus flashers . . I belive these DO
have relays for handling increased loads. I also offer a kit of solid
state flasher and auxiliary relay. Drop me an SASE for the schematic
and bill of materials.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antennas |
Flying Hi - Wish I was
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
GPS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
In message <970306121544_-1741004683(at)emout20.mail.aol.com>,
Gramin(at)aol.com writes
>as the edge is impossible to trap under the door rubbers.
Mine is under OK - depends on type of carpet I suppose.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Does anyone know anything about CherryMax Rivets? They are mentioned in the
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Catalogue as a specialist rivet for composite
aircraft use. I have a fellow builder "downunder" who is going to use them
in all his flight controls, and is currently researching their suitability
through enquiries of Europa and others. The reason why they are supposedly
better is because they leave behind a core plug within the centre of the
rivet which in effect makes them a solid rivet, or as good as. They do
however maintain a constant clamping pressure on the rivetted structure
which is greater than with a pop rivet.
Any further advice that I can pass on would be appreciated
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Francis <101520.2660(at)compuserve.com> |
Jerry,
Try Bournemouth Trailer Centre on 01202-893010. They're on the Ferndown
Industrial Estate
I made a trailer up from their stock of standard off-the-shelf parts a few years
ago, to take two motorcycles, consisting of two paralell runners. Seems to me
that by adding one central runner, you have the basis of an open transporter,
for trike u/c aircraft. I believe they can also supply fully enclosed trailers.
Mike Francis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyan <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resin Pump Wanted. |
UK source of resin pumps is Aircraft Spruce.
There are other units available but intended for industrial use; their price is
L800++
Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello,
is anybody expirienced with wet wing behavior regarding take off/landing
Europas?
Second question: why is there no fuel draining at preflights checks necessary?
Harald
one of the new owner of G-BWDP
EDHL (Germany)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello
Europa G-BWDP now flying in Germany (EDHL:Lbeck close to Hamburg).
We purchased the plane (former owner Mr Ian Valentine, Dungannon), last year
operated by Mr Martin Stoner from Tetbury/Kemble.
We have to say many thanks to Martin for ferrying G-BWDP from Harwich to
Hamburg and for introduction flying the aircraft safe & well.
We
Jens Brockmann, MSc, ATPL
Dirk Linke, MD, PPL
Harald Linke, MSc, PPL
will enjoy to fly the plane.
Harald
delphimed@t-online.de
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
In a message dated 07/03/97 09:19:46, you write:
>Mine is under OK - depends on type of carpet I suppose.
Or have there been two types of door rubbers supplied ? (surely not two
fuselage wall thicknesses !). I couldn't get newspaper under mine until
opening the slot !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
There have been one or two messages and articles on Europa handling, but I
have not seen anything much on ground handling. Those of us used to
"standing on a brake" and pumping the power to turn an aircraft within its
own diameter will have something new to learn. What sort of turning circle
can one get with the correct technique -and what is it ?
Will we have problems slotting into parking lines at rallies etc.
The geometry at full rudder defines a radius of 20.5 ft, i.e.some 7 ft
outside the wing tip, but bearing in mind that centrifugal effects will tend
generate drag on the wrong side by planting the outer outrigger on the
ground, is this actually achievable at a normal turning speed?. And what
about cross-wind effects? A wind on the rudder from the inside of the turn
will assist, but at the same time will try to lift the inner wing and force
the outer outrigger again into the ground. Which will win ?
Please oh ye flyers- tell us what you have found.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | j_streit(at)post4.tele.dk (Streit, Jan) |
I have used a Zemco driving control unit, in my car for years,
unfortunatly it it not availabel from the old supplier, was made in
TAiwan, and to day a lot of autpilots for cars are made by same company,
which i cant find.
I would totalise, km/ liters how lon you could go on what was left, and
ETA and a lot more.
If anyone can help with this on some thing similar I would be most
pleased.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
From: Harald Linke
Second question: why is there no fuel draining at preflights checks necessary?
Probably because the Europa doesn't have any fuel drains as standard, these are
an optional extra - or DIY!
Dave & Margaret Watson
(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
In message <3321D69E.4682(at)post4.tele.dk>, "Streit, Jan"
writes
>I have used a Zemco driving control unit, in my car for years,
>unfortunatly it it not availabel from the old supplier, was made in
>TAiwan, and to day a lot of autpilots for cars are made by same company,
>which i cant find.
>I would totalise, km/ liters how lon you could go on what was left, and
>ETA and a lot more.
>If anyone can help with this on some thing similar I would be most
>pleased.
A possibility is to go searching for the fuel flow sensor that was
fitted to some models of that eighties icon of red bracered man the BMW
3 series. Now appearing in a scrap yard near you.
The one to look for had all the extra bells and whistles that elevated a
mere taxi to cult status and had the magical dial beneath the
speedometer that showed how ecologicaly you were driving.
In bracered man's case this was demonstrated by how far the needle could
be made to point to the right, it's degree being in direct proportion to
the mass of brain shifted to the right foot.
You need to follow back the fuel line from the engine bay toward the
tank and look for a "brick" which contains the sensor. It has a couple
of lines attached, one is a +12V feed to a LED, another is ground and a
third which is the output from photodiode. The output needs sharpening
up via a Shmitt trigger and I have seen quite passable displays made
using simple bicycle odometers, the sort where the pulse count can be
varied to make a sensible display.
Don't bother with trying to recover the "computer" as this was nothing
more than a pulse integrator at best.
Who knows you might even find the obligatory coat hanger still attached
to the rear passenger's grab handle.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
You might be able to do something with the fuel flow meter that we sell?
Take a look at our web site.
Jerry
Flying Hi - Wish I was
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Francis <101520.2660(at)compuserve.com> |
>I would totalise, km/ liters how lon you could go on what was left, and
>ETA and a lot more.
>If anyone can help with this on some thing similar I would be most
>pleased.
Speak to Jerry Davis at Lynhurst Touchdown Services.
Tel (44) 1703 282619,
Fax (44) 1703 282471
E-mail INTERNET:jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
and a web page on http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
They do a range of compact Engine Information Systems (includes fuel flow etc)
Mike Francis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MSmith1565(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
The turning circle is rather better in practise than it would appear. I have
never actually measured it but a 180 degree turn to back track a very narrow
runway is quite easy. As for parking we find the plane is so light that
single handed we can push it back into a parking bay without effort. It does
appear that a burst of power with application of full rudder and a touch of
brake will tighten the radius of a turn.
Mike. S.
39 syndicate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
Depending on the car, many of the simpler fuel flow/mileage
sensors (which obviously integrate speedometer data) didn't measure fuel
flow directly, but rather inferred it from either mechanical or
electronic fuel delivery system sensors (Bosch K- and L- Jetronic, etc.)
In other words, "the airflow sensor plate is at position x, which if the
fuel pump is providing the correct pressure to the injector loop should
result in fuel flow y, so that's what we'll assume." (Or, in the
electronic systems, "I'm commanding pulse width p to the fuel injector
magnets, which assumeing the fuel pump etc..."
Here in the Colonies, there are a number of relatively cheap fuel
flow sensor systems designed for the marine market. Most of them use
typical "pinwheel occulting an LED" sensors made by the FlowScan
corporation. While you can sometimes find the sensors alone, the whole
systems are often so cheap (ca. $250) that it might be worthwhile to
install them "as is."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Youngblood" <pcy(at)cetlink.net> |
| Subject: | ou have mail order for medication? If so I need to know how much 120 |
Lortab 10mg. tablets are?
PCY(at)CetLink.Net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <100637.2226(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | size S3 Foam Blocks |
On positioning my S1,2 & 3 foam blocks on the spar for an initial look-see. The
inboard solid block, although slightly warped on the spar face, appears about
one quarter of an inch too high in comparison with the S2 block. The S1 and S2
blocks seem to match with a reasonably straight leading edge. Has anyone else
had the same sort of thing?
Is it acceptable to sand the spar face a little to bring the leading edge into
line with the S1 and S2 blocks.
Also, where does one put the level on the leading edge blocks to check for the
correct wash out; although not yet micro'd onto the spar my blocks seem to be
about the same angle, give or take .2 of a degree - indeed, can one check for
wash out this early in the wing build. I am measuring on the undersurface of
the leading edge blocks using the spar as the lower datum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Oversize S3 Foam Blocks |
>On positioning my S1,2 & 3 foam blocks on the spar for an initial look-see.
The
>inboard solid block, although slightly warped on the spar face, appears about
>one quarter of an inch too high in comparison with the S2 block. The S1 and S2
>blocks seem to match with a reasonably straight leading edge. Has anyone else
>had the same sort of thing?
>Is it acceptable to sand the spar face a little to bring the leading edge into
>line with the S1 and S2 blocks.
>Also, where does one put the level on the leading edge blocks to check for the
>correct wash out; although not yet micro'd onto the spar my blocks seem to be
>about the same angle, give or take .2 of a degree - indeed, can one check for
>wash out this early in the wing build. I am measuring on the undersurface of
>the leading edge blocks using the spar as the lower datum.
The foam blocks are something of a variable quantity: 1/4 inch seems to be
somewhat excessive -you might want to ask for another one. On my wing, some
the blocks had to be packed in places and one or two of the ends sanded to
produce a straight wing (check the spar face/rib angle is 90 degrees...) I
glued foam strips 10mm wide where needed to the spar, and then sanded them
back so that the LE was absolutely straight. These then act as packing when
micro-ing them in position.
The spars are slightly wavy, however hard you try to set them up to true
up a mandrel exactly the same size as the spar pin, around 8" long, (I used
a piece of 4130 tube) and use that as the primary reference. This is matched
to lines marked on the ends of the inner 1" wide (flange forming) and outer
cores.
Carefully glue 3/4 channel or similar on the lines marked by the factory:
this provides a handy (and repeatable) place to put the level: with both
absolutely vertical -matching the mandrel- it will build in the correct
washout -it is visible when you look down the wing. The same applies to the
aft cores. When doing the flaps and ailerons, check the washout very
carefully (0.9 degrees for the flaps, 0.6 degrees for the ailerons) -all 4
of mine needed packing, and indeed, the factory are changing the proceedure
on these pieces to make sure that they built according to the plans: if you
just glue the jig blocks to a flat surface, they may be wrong.... This will
be announced (for those not on the 'net) in the next newsletter.
If haven't already got one, I suggest that you invest in a digital level:
for the sake of =A3150 or =A3200 -a very small part of the total cost- it will
repay you handsomely with a better flying aeroplane.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
>is anybody expirienced with wet wing behavior regarding take off/landing
>Europas?
During some circuit practice early last summer, A passing cloud decided to
give our Europa a quick wash. It was only light rain at first so I
continued the circuit duty and I could detect no difference in the handling
at all. Eventually the rain increased to the point where I was having
difficulty with vision in the flair due to the low RPM of the prop not
clearing the screen, but the aircrafts handling was still normal. I have
also since then flown at cruise speed (120 KTS) through rain showers with
no apparent effect. It was however interesting to see the rain running in
perfectly straight lines along the canopy over the entire surface,
confirming (as if were necessary!), the aerodynamic attributes of the
Europa.
Best of luck Harald with your flying.
Jim
Jim Naylor No 39
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
>
>>I am afraid you mustn't interrupt the forward lift pin stiffener.
>
>I'm surprised at that, as the innards are only foam. I was envisaging a tube
>solidly embedded in it, without interrupting the glassing except at the entry
>and exit holes in the narrow sides where it would be coned onto to the tube.
>Difficult to stress that no doubt.
>
>
A solidly embedded tube through the core material of the forward lift pin
stiffener would be O.K.
I envisaged, from your request, that you would be removing material from the
shear webs of the top hat section, and simply runnung wires through, which
wouldn't be too good. You may be surprised at the contribution that the
foam gives to the structure. Not difficult to stress with all the necessary
information.
Regards
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Fittings |
>I am currently making up the fuel tank fittings and have elected to fit the
>optional fuel tank drain valves. The drawing supplied shows the F09C fitting
>with the fuel opening uppermost and the drain fitting below. Clearly, this
>leaves an extra 1/2 inch or so of fuel as unusable. In the original F09A the
>fuel was drawn from the middle of the fitting so orientation wasn't a
>concern.
>
>What is the goal here? Is it to leave fuel which possibly contains dirt
>inaccessible? Won't dirt generally be removed via the added drains? Or is
>the orientation of the part in the drawing not pertinent? There is no
>guidance in the text, perhaps because it wasn't needed with the original
>part.
>
>John, A044
Sorry for the late reply, John. The hard copy of your e-mail message got
buried in my in tray.
What has been missed from fig. 2 in the Mod 33 sheet is that it is a plan
view. Therefore the outlets should be beside one another, not one above the
other.
Regards
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oversize S3 Foam Blocks |
>> can one check for wash out this early in the wing build<<
No I wouldn't think so. What you really need is a template of the whole airfoil
at say three stations along the wing, with the waterlines accurately aligned
with the outer edge of the template. Then you could incorporate it into your
jigging system when you bond the cores on.
It will also be useful (to be truthful, more than useful) when your inspector
comes to sign off the final inspection. He is asked (in Britain, anyway ) to
verify the straightness, incidence and washout of the wing. Without templates he
can't do it with much accuracy.
With regard to the leading edge, you want it straight, otherwise it will spoil
the look of the airplane. Try and find out where the error is and correct it,
either by replacing the duff part or if simple, just fix it with a wedge of
foam.
When bonding the front cores on I tend to use a straight piece of 2 by 2
extrusion (steel) to weight the cores down and keep them in line. I also jig it
to the floor at both ends.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hs" <htnbetkf(at)netcomuk.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: ) Re: Intercom Installation problem |
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From: Self <Single-user mode>
Subject: Re: Intercom Installation problem
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 23:21:34
Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> wrote
I once said to a friend who designs engines (RB211s) snip
any chanceyour friend might be on the list so we can ask questions
of interest on jet engine design?
Haluk
End of message ....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Miller <Dave.Miller(at)ilp.com> |
Hi all,
A quick question to those lucky chaps who have Europas flying:
What are you all averaging as an hourly rate including the usual fuel,
maintenance allowance and so on?
I am just curious to know how (in)expensive the aircraft are to keep
airborne.
cheers
Dave
_____
Dave Miller
"If you're ever faced with a forced landing at night, turn on the
landing lights to see the landing area. If you don't like what you
see, turn 'em back off."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Thomas <Peter_Thomas(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | pa Aviation Web Pages Updated |
I have updated the Europa Aviation Web pages with the latest material I
have received.
http://www.europa-aviation.co.uk/
New pages include...
(1) Newsletters
(2) Test flight reports on G-YURO and G-ELSA
(3) Latest Customer Completions
(4) Recipricol Links Page
Goto to the what's new page for the updated/new links.
Scattered across the new pages are some great air to air photos of G-KITS.
I have also placed the Europa Manual Index as compiled by Dave Watts on the
Europa Club Site. Thanks for the contribution Dave. Keep it coming.
http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa
As always, any feedback of any kind is encouraged. Tell me what you want to
see !
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
In a message dated 09/03/97 17:26:15, you write:
> It does
>appear that a burst of power with application of full rudder and a touch of
>brake will tighten the radius of a turn.
Well yes, I can understand that if the turn is in the direction where prop
wash hits the fin, but would not expect it to work both ways. Taxied about
in G-EMIN for the first time today. Very surprised to find I was not
really aware of the outriggers. But this was on grass and perhaps they would
be more obvious on hard surfaces. Braking didn't seem to good, but maybe some
air yet to be removed. Condensation on the windscreen was horrendous, but
we have the famous Forth "haar" at the moment (50m vis and 100% humidity),
and the heavy breathing wouldn't help either !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>>If haven't already got one, I suggest that you invest in a digital level:<<
Don't forget that however accurate the level is it is only as good as the
surface you rest it on. A good quality bubble level is accurate to 1/10th
degree, and a large protractor with weighted pointer is almost as good. (like
the one in the plans) The analog readings are less confusing to some of us.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (Fwd) Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>>any chanceyour friend might be on the list<<
Nope, I doubt it. He's in Seattle now, don't think he has time to get connected
even. One place to ask would be Compuserve AVSIG, homebuilt corner.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
.......Taxied about in G-EMIN for the first time today.
Congratulations! It must feel great to actually _move_ in the plane for the
first time.
Good luck with the taxi tests.
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost per hour |
>>I am just curious to know how (in)expensive the aircraft are to keep
airborne.<<
Don't know yet, only done 100 hours or so. Fuel is 2 gal per hour ish. Oil and
glycol negligible. Spares, daren't ask. I suppose replace engine at 1000 hours
?:-(
Insurance is the big cost L1800 a year. Hangarage less of a problem because you
have a choice. You can always go home.
Graham
PS allow for the odd dinged prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
>> Braking didn't seem to good, but maybe some air yet to be removed.<<
Yes, it is awkward to bleed the brake master cylinder, the barrel of the master
is higher than the bleed hole. You could raise the tail to bring it level, or
remove the screws holding it and do it that way from underneath. The way I have
done it is to remove the bleed/filler screw, slowly pull the brake handle back
until all the bubbles have escaped, then top up from a syringe while
simultaneously releasing the brake lever slowly enough to match the fill rate.
Replace the fill screw. The brake will then be quite solid.
Our parking brake (credit Jon Tye) is a simple snail cam which holds the brake
on. No expensive Matco hydraulic valves which can develop leaks and fail. The
position of the snail cam also gives an indication of brake pad wear.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
In message <97Mar12.132714nzdt.17033-1(at)quark.kaon.co.nz>, Tony
Krzyzewski writes
> _move_ in the plane for the
>first time.
It is - just waiting for the PFA to send back the paperwork. They are
obviously very busy - must be all the Euopas in the UK that are about to
fly.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
In message <970311165506_-1338699742(at)emout16.mail.aol.com>,
Gramin(at)aol.com writes
>Taxied about
> in G-EMIN for the first time today. Very surprised to find I was not
How did you resist lifting the tail - I thought about cold showers.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> >> Braking didn't seem to good, but maybe some air yet to be removed.<<
>
> Yes, it is awkward to bleed the brake master cylinder, the barrel of the master
> is higher than the bleed hole.
I haven't yet received my Europa gear yet (just finishing up the tail),
but doesn't it have a bleed valve on the caliper?
If so, use the old automatic trick of bleeding from the bottom: rig up
a source of brake fluid under pressure (a kitchen baster with attached
plastic tube is inelegant, but works fine), fit to lower bleed valve,
and pump fluid in until it comes out the top of the master cylinder.
The snail cam parking brake is a brilliant idea!
brgds, Peter Lert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
The snail cam parking brake is a brilliant idea!
Could those with more insight into this please explain what a snail cam is
:)
Tony
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
Yes, what is it?
Christoph Both, Canada #223
From: Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Ground handling
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 17:06:48 +1300
The snail cam parking brake is a brilliant idea!
Could those with more insight into this please explain what a snail cam is
:)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
>
> The snail cam parking brake is a brilliant idea!
>
> Could those with more insight into this please explain what a snail cam is
>
Not having seen it myself, I can only infer that it's a flat
snail-shaped cam, lying horizontally, and secured to a vertical pivot
just fwd of the brake lever slot.
Pull the brake, then turn the cam until it blocks the lever from moving
fwd.
What's the application you attached? I'll wait to hear before decoding
it.
brgds, psl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
On Wed, 12 Mar 1997, Rolph Muller wrote:
> How did you resist lifting the tail - I thought about cold showers.
No need - Think about The CAA :
/
Happy Building & Flying to One & All ......
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph J. Like" <joelike(at)sprintmail.com> |
I do not know if anyone else is having this problem, but starting last
Sunday I started getting a flood of msg from this (my only) newsgroup.
Most of the msg have no to/from/subject or content, just a time stamp.
Then I would get msg with to/from/subject but no content, then a msg
with the same to/from/subject and half of the content. In short for
each msg posted on this newsgroup I receive about six msgs, three
without any to/from/subject or content, and three with variany stages of
content.
I've got Sprintmail working on it from my end but it only appears to be
the europa newsgroup msgs that have this problem. Any ideas? {:-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brown_t(at)dms1.nadepcp.navy.mil |
I N T E R O F F I C E M E M O R A N D U M
From: TOM BROWN
BROWN_T
Dept: NADEPCP 6.3.611
Tel No: (919)464-7644
Subject: LUCAS ROTAX
DOES ANYONE KNOW A COMPLETE ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBER FOR LUCAS ROTAX?
ANY HELP WOULD APPRECIATED.
TOM BROWN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
No attachment, just Microsoft outlook for Windows 95 with full mime control sending
you all of the document formatting information. You will see more email systems
starting to use this system as it allows fully formatted documents to be
sent as normal email. Imagine it - multiple fonts, colours, highlights, pictures
- all embedded in an email message.
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter S. Lert [SMTP:peterlert(at)montrose.net]
Sent: Friday, March 14, 1997 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: Ground handling
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
> The snail cam parking brake is a brilliant idea!
> Could those with more insight into this please explain what a snail cam is
Not having seen it myself, I can only infer that it's a flat
snail-shaped cam, lying horizontally, and secured to a vertical pivot
just fwd of the brake lever slot.
Pull the brake, then turn the cam until it blocks the lever from moving
fwd.
What's the application you attached? I'll wait to hear before decoding
it.
brgds, psl
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
>> doesn't it have a bleed valve on the caliper?
If so, use the old automatic trick of bleeding from the bottom: rig up
a source of brake fluid under pressure <<
There is a second bleed valve on the caliper but you still get the small bubble
of air at the high point of the master cylinder, since it's valve is at the
rear, lower, end.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
In a message dated 12/03/97 12:43:56, you write:
>How did you resist lifting the tail
Easy, didn't connect the pitot, so didn't dare go above walking speed - just
as well the wind didn't get up !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
Tks for the bleeding information ! Will try that
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground handling |
Thanks Tony - yes hearing that engine run up is really great. Tied to the
ground now only by paper ! Wonder what would happen if I called for radio
check from my driveway.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the instrument module |
Thanks Andy, I have meantime bridged the conduit outside it, but am rapidly
running out of wires so may have to revise this as suggested.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
In the Europa the passengers are forward of the c.of g, (cog) while the
fuel and the baggage are well aft, the numbers being -4, 16 and 28
respectively (from a nominal 60"). While any particular set of conditions is
easy to calculate it is more instructive to run a program which will explore
the limits. The first thing that turns up is that it is virtually impossible
to get out of limits in the forward direction (-2) with passenger load.
Indeed the reverse is true, i.e. it is easy to have too low a passenger
weight, and the fuel pushes you out of the aft limit (2.5). So you may have
to collect a passengers or bags of cement to put full fuel aboard. The same
goes for baggage only more so, as it is further aft. You need more
passenger/ballast in the right hand seat to get maximum fuel and baggage.
This is eased somewhat if you have a heavy fit of instruments for they can
substitute for passenge/ballast, being even further forward. You will know
this as soon as you complete the weighing, as your cog will probably then be
found to be less than 60 from datum.
As I have yet to fit anything heavy on the instrument side, my cog is already
nearing the 61 specified as the aft limit for first flight. Which means I can
load very little fuel for it, even if there is a crew of two !. Sandbags on
the feet ?
Grinding out tables of numbers also shows that max. a.u.w. weight only limits
loading in rare cases, as fuel or baggage usually sends the cog too far aft
first.
Perhaps all this is obvious to those flying but I would recommend wriiting a
suitable progam, as there are some constants specific to each aircraft to be
fed in, before the correct conclusions can be drawn. Anyone is welcome to
mine if they are too busy building.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven A Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
The arrangement where the fuel is behind the center of gravity is one of
the reasons I chose the Europa. If the dynamic C of G range is properly
set up then any fuel burn will result in a more forward C of G. You
shouldn't ever get into a situation where you are going to takeoff with
an in ballance airplane but at landing have a tail heavy plane to contend
with. From the description of the dynamic C of G range for your plane it
looks like something needs to be moved from the back to the front or the
engine moved forward. Now lets see, the extra weight of a 914 would
place the C of G where? ;-)
I am really interrested in using carbon fiber and vacuum bagging the tail
plane. It is good to know that the margin is such that it is to our
advantage to get weight out of the tail.
Steve Eberhart
newtech(at)newtech.com
Europa wannabe - hope to order wing and tail kits at Sun 'n Fun
On Sat, 15 Mar 1997 Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
> In the Europa the passengers are forward of the c.of g, (cog) while the
> fuel and the baggage are well aft, the numbers being -4, 16 and 28
> respectively (from a nominal 60"). While any particular set of conditions is
> easy to calculate it is more instructive to run a program which will explore
> the limits. The first thing that turns up is that it is virtually impossible
> to get out of limits in the forward direction (-2) with passenger load.
> Indeed the reverse is true, i.e. it is easy to have too low a passenger
> weight, and the fuel pushes you out of the aft limit (2.5). So you may have
> to collect a passengers or bags of cement to put full fuel aboard. The same
> goes for baggage only more so, as it is further aft. You need more
> passenger/ballast in the right hand seat to get maximum fuel and baggage.
> This is eased somewhat if you have a heavy fit of instruments for they can
> substitute for passenge/ballast, being even further forward. You will know
> this as soon as you complete the weighing, as your cog will probably then be
> found to be less than 60 from datum.
>
> As I have yet to fit anything heavy on the instrument side, my cog is already
> nearing the 61 specified as the aft limit for first flight. Which means I can
> load very little fuel for it, even if there is a crew of two !. Sandbags on
> the feet ?
>
> Grinding out tables of numbers also shows that max. a.u.w. weight only limits
> loading in rare cases, as fuel or baggage usually sends the cog too far aft
> first.
>
> Perhaps all this is obvious to those flying but I would recommend wriiting a
> suitable progam, as there are some constants specific to each aircraft to be
> fed in, before the correct conclusions can be drawn. Anyone is welcome to
> mine if they are too busy building.
>
> Graham C.
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
>> It is good to know that the margin is such that it is to our
advantage to get weight out of the tail.<<
In fact some people suspect that the present C.G. range might be a bit too far
forward. At forward CG there is only just enough elevator authority to round out
at minimum speed. This could be one reason for of the landing problems some
people have had.
A technique that has been suggested when at forward CG, (which implies Heavy),
is too trim full forward, so that at full aft stick the tail generates more
downforce, at a price of heavy stick load.
Part of the problem is that the tail is affected by the loss of downwash when
the flap comes into ground effect. At this point in the landing one must smarlty
move the stick back a notch otherwise the plane will temporarily land itself,
only to bounce.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Could someone explain the principle of capacitance fuel gauges, and whether
these are the only type suitable or whether a float type would work?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Stewart <alans(at)kbss.bt.co.uk> |
| Subject: | /Bulkhead screws & other irritants |
......having an electric screwdriver helps, but it takes an age to get
to parts of the aircraft that need frequent checking. Specifically,
I'm talking about the screws on the top cowl of the engine bay, and the ones
attaching the rear bulkhead cover on the back wall of the baggage area.
Has anyone investigated alternatives ??
How about the screws that tighten and lock with a single, 90 degree turn ?
Anyone know what they're called & where to get them ? Would any changes
require PFA approval ?
Obviously, a cowl which departs the aircraft in flight is not a desireable
scenario. I wouldn't suggest anything which compromised cowl security, but
surely quick and easy access to the engine bay has to be a plus point
from the point of view of regular inspections ?
Alan Stewart (BWFX)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Gillburg <georgeg(at)lsbsdi2.lightspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl/Bulkhead screws & other irritants |
At 10:14 AM 3/17/97 GMT, you wrote:
>How about the screws that tighten and lock with a single, 90 degree turn ?
>Anyone know what they're called & where to get them ?
One type is called a dzus fastener. I don't know where you'd get them in
the UK but Aircraft Spruce & Specialty probably carries them. Another type
is called a cam-lock tho to me that sounds like a generic name for the type
of fastener while dzus is one manufacturers trademark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl/Bulkhead screws & other irritants |
Alan Stewart wrote:
>
> ......having an electric screwdriver helps, but it takes an age to get
> to parts of the aircraft that need frequent checking. Specifically,
> I'm talking about the screws on the top cowl of the engine bay, and the ones
> attaching the rear bulkhead cover on the back wall of the baggage area.
>
> Has anyone investigated alternatives ??
>
> How about the screws that tighten and lock with a single, 90 degree turn ?
> Anyone know what they're called & where to get them ? Would any changes
> require PFA approval ?
As a Demned Colonist, I can't speak for (or perhaps against?) the PFA,
but you have at least two alternatives. One is Dzus fasteners
(pronounced "Zeus"), in which a shank with a short 90-degree spiral slot
at the end engages a spring wire running across the hole in the "female"
part. Dzuses have been around for a long time; if you ever get to a
field that has something like a T-6 on it ("Harvard" to you Brits),
you'll find them all over the cowling, access panels, etc.
The more modern alternative is "Cam-Lok" fasteners, in which the
spring-loaded shank of the male part ends in a tiny crosspiece which
engages slots in the female part. These are available in all kinds of
styles, including "structural" ones in which an outer barrel in the male
part engages a bushing in the female; these, while pricey (and not
necessary on Europa) can handle significant structural shear loads.
I don't have an ASS catalog in front of me at the moment, but so far as
I know they stock both kinds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> Gidday,
> Could someone explain the principle of capacitance fuel gauges, and whether
> these are the only type suitable or whether a float type would work?
Either one should work fine. Capacitance gauges are a bit more
expensive, but more accurate and--perhaps significant--lots easier to
install.
Here's the idea. In a conventional float gauge, the rising and sinking
float moves a potentiometer, changing the DC voltage sent on to the
gauge. If the potentiometer's windings get dirty, you'll get a jerky or
"noisy" gauge. Moreover, unless it has a built-in regulator (Zener
diode, etc.), there's the possibility that changes in aircraft supply
voltage can cause (small) errors in fuel level indication.
Most important, you have to find room in the tank to install the float
so it can move over the entire fuel level range unobstructed. Depending
on the size and shape of the tank, this can be easy or difficult.
Sloshing of fuel inflight will cause the gauge to rise and fall.
typically a pair of concentric tubes, open at both top and bottom, so
fuel can rise and fall both in and between them. What's being measured
is the capacitance between the tubes, which will vary since fuel has a
different dielectric value from air. Simple circuitry converts this to
an appropriate output for display.
The beauty part is that the sender tube doesn't have to be vertical, as
long as it covers the entire range of fuel--it can even be bent to odd
shapes to correspond to odd-shaped tanks. (If the tank is metal, you
don't even need a tube--you can use the tank itself as one side, with a
simple wire for the other). Or, for something like Europa, you can run
your tube diagonally down the tank's front or rear, increasing its
length to get more capacitance change per unit fuel change. You could
even put in two senders, hooked in parallel, if you wanted to measure
total tank capacity rather than having to take the last bit in the
reserve on faith.
tend to slow down the rate at which fuel runs in and out, thus reducing
the effect of sloshing.
All this having been said, I still like the relatively foolproof "fuel
in a sight tube" arrangement as specified with the kit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
I'm hoping to take our Europa to, appropriately enough, Europe when
it's finished in a year or so.
In the meantime, if anyone is interested in what it's like to fly the
other way at more or less Europalike speeds, I have to pick up a DH
Beaver in Holland sometime in the first week of April and ferry it back
to the US. Although this is a tentative offer, I _may_ have a seat
available if some Europa builder would like to sample the North
Atlantic. Route would be Scotland - Iceland - Greenland - Canada etc.
You'd have to pay for your own accommodations and meals, as well as
arranging your own transport back to the UK. I'd prefer if you could
find (borrow, rent) a survival suit in the UK so I don't have to haul an
extra one over on the airlines, but I could probably provide one in a
pinch.
Let me stress once again that at present this is a _tentative_ offer,
but I'd enjoy the company (not to mention a human autopilot on those
eight-hour legs!). Let's see if anyone is interested...
Peter Lert
PS--This is about my 85th North Atlantic crossing in light aircraft, and
I've only pranged once so far (engine failure in an SF-260 taking off
from Greenland).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevannan(at)aol.com |
I wonder if anyone has any tips on fitting the transparent bits. I have opted
for the clear rather than smoked plastic, and would like to know what I can
protect the surfaces with, I have been told cling film reacts and I do not
like masking tape left on for any length of time. Is there something I can
put on in liquid form. Also are there any reasons not to drill the plastic to
accept clecos , for securing during setting.
Roger Lloyd uk6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
In a message dated 15/03/97 19:19:52, you write:
>looks like something needs to be moved from the back to the front<
Hopefully not. Stage 1 has minimum instrumentation to get airborne and there
is a big vacant space in front of me waiting to be filled at stage 2. Judging
from the diffculty there was in just poking in washers to align the engine,
moving it forward is not a serious option !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl/Bulkhead screws & other irritants |
>>surely quick and easy access to the engine bay has to be a plus point
from the point of view of regular inspections ?<<
Absolutely.
I was shown a Jodel recently, it took all of 30 secs to get both cowls off. A
little ingenuity with Camlocks, hinges and the odd dowel would do the trick. (
hinges are neat, you pull the pin and it falls apart. Like Camlocs
expensive,though)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
>> I still like the relatively foolproof "fuel in a sight tube" arrangement as
specified with the kit!<<
So would I if it was. (foolproof) It needs the mod to remove it's sensitivity to
fuel pressure and the probability of sucking air into the fuel line.
I like the Capacitance type of sensor, it warns if there's water in the tank by
going full scale.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbamfyld(at)netlink.co.nz (John Bampfylde) |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting windows |
>I wonder if anyone has any tips on fitting the transparent bits. I have opted
>for the clear rather than smoked plastic, and would like to know what I can
>protect the surfaces with, I have been told cling film reacts and I do not
>like masking tape left on for any length of time. Is there something I can
>put on in liquid form. Also are there any reasons not to drill the plastic to
>accept clecos , for securing during setting.
>
>Roger Lloyd uk6
Yet to do this bit, but I've done a bit of research. A friend used clecos
to great effect. Regarding protection, I have seen that water based white
wood glue (I forget its name) used. Water it down and paint it on. It will
stop all sorts of nasties from getting to the screen. In addition, you can
peel it off when finished.
Hope this helps.
John Bampfylde, #130
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl/Bulkhead screws & other irritants |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Dzus do some of a more modern design than the traditional spirally
bit of wire which is pop rivetted on, instead they clip over the
joggle in whatever it is you want to join rather like those spring
steel thingies which self tappers are screwed into and used to hold
the trim together in cars. It may be however that if the part to
be joined isn't specifically designed for these the joggle may need
to be modified with a recess where the clip sits.
(We haven't got to this stage yet.)
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
>In the Europa the passengers are forward of the c.of g, (cog) while the
>fuel and the baggage are well aft, the numbers being -4, 16 and 28
>respectively (from a nominal 60"). While any particular set of conditions is
>easy to calculate it is more instructive to run a program which will explore
>the limits. The first thing that turns up is that it is virtually impossible
>to get out of limits in the forward direction (-2) with passenger load.
> Indeed the reverse is true, i.e. it is easy to have too low a passenger
>weight, and the fuel pushes you out of the aft limit (2.5). So you may have
>to collect a passengers or bags of cement to put full fuel aboard. The same
>goes for baggage only more so, as it is further aft. You need more
>passenger/ballast in the right hand seat to get maximum fuel and baggage.
> This is eased somewhat if you have a heavy fit of instruments for they can
>substitute for passenge/ballast, being even further forward. You will know
>this as soon as you complete the weighing, as your cog will probably then be
>found to be less than 60 from datum.
>
>As I have yet to fit anything heavy on the instrument side, my cog is already
>nearing the 61 specified as the aft limit for first flight. Which means I can
>load very little fuel for it, even if there is a crew of two !. Sandbags on
>the feet ?
>
>Grinding out tables of numbers also shows that max. a.u.w. weight only limits
>loading in rare cases, as fuel or baggage usually sends the cog too far aft
>first.
>
>Perhaps all this is obvious to those flying but I would recommend wriiting a
>suitable progam, as there are some constants specific to each aircraft to be
>fed in, before the correct conclusions can be drawn. Anyone is welcome to
>mine if they are too busy building.
>
>Graham C.
>
Evidence suggests that the A.P.S. (Aircarft Prepared for Service) c.g. of
many Europas is actually well forward. I give below figures of c.g. known
to us for flying Europas:-
59.82" AOD
60.28
59.57
58.55
59.34
60.57
59.69
59.4
58.74
60.31
59.76
58.81
60.15
60.6
58.96
59.72
60.85
If you take as an example an aircraft weighing 780 lb with c.g. at 58.7",
then pilot plus passenger @ 170 lb each, zero fuel, will put the c.g. at
57.88", which is too far forward, so a little baggage/ballast would be needed..
Conversely, a light pilot, say 120 lb. plus full fuel (115lb) would be at
the aft limit OF 62.5" if the weight was 780 lb. again, and the A.P.S. c.g.
was 61.5". To my knowledge no Europa has yet had a c.g. that far aft.
Some recent Europas have had their batteries moved behind the baggage bay to
overcome an empty c.g. too far forward.
Regards
Roger
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
There are a couple of things that you should be aware of using capacitance
fuel indicators: only some can be bent to compensate for variations in tank
volume, so if you intend to do that, order the right one.
When "calbrating" it -setting the guage pointer to 0, empty, and 4/4's,
full, you must do so with either the engine running and the bus voltage
stabilised, or use a power supply that matches the stabilised bus voltage:
otherwise you won't get (relatively) accurate indications.
The sight guage? Well I might accept that if it was against the fuel tank
(or even better, you could see the fuel tank) but not elsewhere where small
changes in pitch can have large differences.
BTW -Europa are coming out with a removable aux tank -sits in one half of
the baggage bay, and will plug in with QD self sealing fittings. Rumoured to
extend the range (presumably @ best economy -if your bladder or
concentration can hold out) to a mind numbing 1000 miles. Well, perhaps the
CD player should go on the essential list after all.
All the best
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting windows |
>> Also are there any reasons not to drill the plastic to
accept clecos , for securing during setting.<<
Yes. Clecos are unneccessary and will tend to act as crack starters. If a door
accidentally bangs shut, for instance, it might initiate a crack.
Get hold of at least 6 long luggage straps, the type used to hold your
windsurfer on your car roof, trial fit the door screens one at a time using the
straps right round the fuselage to hold each doorscreen in place. Where
necessary you can place wedges to push down any edges that stand proud. BTW the
door needs to be locked shut, but you knew that ;-) of course. When happy, go
for it with the Redux. One door at a time. The front screen can be done the same
way, more or less.
The door shoot bolts work better if you put a second set of bushes (like the
ones provided for the doors) into the door surrounds.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
In a message dated 17/03/97 19:39:30, you write:
> All this having been said, I still like the relatively foolproof "fuel
>in a sight tube" arrangement as specified with the kit!
>_
Really, you actually like lifting the tail every time you want to know how
far you can fly ?
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
Thanks for posting the Europa cg's. I see 6 out of 16 are over 60". It
would be interestsing to have the auw. or aps moments as well for
comparison..
My own aps.cg is 60.8" (dare I say "at the moment" (:-))) the same as the
highest figure in the list . With so little to spare before the 61 aft limit
for first flight, it is not surprising that only half fuel can be loaded
without ballasting.
It only needs 10 lbs more instruments though (taken to be at 37") to bring
this down to 59.5". which I fully expect to reach later.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Gauges |
I think the sight gauge should be retained for on ground fuel checking
In lieu of a dipstick but a capacitance gauge is a better in flight solution. The
question now is, how to get an accurate on ground visual check considering
that the current location of the fuel sight gauge doesn't give an accurate measure
when on the ground. Maybe a direct reading float gauge mounted to the tank
inspection hatch (see Meredith-Hardy) is a solution.
Tony
#272 Port leading edge foam blocks attached and looking gooooood :)
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Gramin(at)aol.com [SMTP:Gramin(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 1997 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Capacitance Gauges
In a message dated 17/03/97 19:39:30, you write:
> All this having been said, I still like the relatively foolproof "fuel
>in a sight tube" arrangement as specified with the kit!
>_
Really, you actually like lifting the tail every time you want to know how
Graham C
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting windows |
In a message dated 19/03/97 00:53:41, you write:
>door needs to be locked shut<
You can do it all with the door on the bench as long as you measure
accurately the span of the door when in the fuselage, then restrain it with
strips clamped to the bench to keep the same curvature. Pairs of sandbags
tied together and draped draped over the perspex will hold it down. The
important thing is to ensure the edge thickness (plus the redux) is small
enough to fit in the rebate in the first place. The early kits certainly
seemed to have a mismatch here. But the old hands will now be having a
feeling a deja vue, so be sure to search "allmsgs".
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
I wrote <10 lbs of instruments will move the cg back .. to 59.5">
Before anyone notices, there was an input error there. It's not that much.
But the important point is that 10 lbs of instruments at 37" balances nearlyi
2.8 imp. gals of fuel way back at 76". So from the balance point of view, a
goodly instrument fit is no bad thing, though you might want to calculate (if
you can (:-))) the "further effects" due to increased auw.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
Now that spring is almost here, winter has returned to New England so I'm
working on assembling the doors which can be done in the warm cellar instead
of the cold garage. I had several little adventures and questions during this
assembly which may be of interest to others.
First, I laid up the splash moldings and found that they didn't follow the
contour because the plastic film prevents the epoxy/glass from adhering to
the form. Unfortunately once I mix epoxy my hands seem to speed up and my
brain apparently slows down - I covered the layup with film, cut a couple
thin strips of foam, put them against the sides and wrapped it with masking
tape. Naturally, this caused the glass to bulge up under the tape where it
wasn't easily seen, resulting in a poor fit. The next day I made foam blocks
to fit each side by holding sandpaper on the part and rubbing the foam back
and forth. The new layup was covered with peel ply and then a layer of film
over that. The foam blocks were carefully put in place and weighted down with
good results.
I measured and drilled the holes in the door according to directions. The
opening for the latch was cut out and the latches were inserted. There is a
little trap here, literally. I found that the easiest way to insert the latch
was in the open position. Unfortunately, the spring is compressed and if one
bumps the handle it moves to the closed position with the speed of a mouse
trap. I guess the epoxy fumes were still affecting me because I kept saying
to myself that all I had to do was be more careful and it wouldn't happen
again. Finally, I temporarily tightened the bolt which connects the handle to
the spring holder to prevent it from closing.
Then, I noted that the bottom of the port inboard handle contacted the
fiberglass below it as the handle was moved; the stbd mechanism cleared
nicely. I checked the distance from the bottom edge of the door to the
mid-point of the perpendicular lip below the latch on both doors. The port
door measured 0.65 inch while the stbd door measured 0.55 inch. Apparently
there is a tolerance in the jigs when the inside molding is bonded to the
outside molding. This is not accommodated by measuring up 40mm from the
bottom of the door. It may be better to measure this distance and adjust the
position of the hole for the handle shaft slightly rather than blindly
following the directions as I did. I had to file a bit off the bottom of the
port inboard handle to clear, but it looks as if it will work fine.
Also, the fit of the shoot bolts into their guides was too good. Both the
guide and the bolt measured 0.500 inch, which doesn't allow for a sliding
fit. It took nearly 2 hours of filing and hand reaming to open the guides up
about .005 for a snug sliding fit. Is this sufficient so that dirt won't bind
it in use?
I noted a small hole drilled in the bottom of the stbd door, perhaps to
relieve air pressure during shipping and before the purchaser drills holes;
no hole in the port door though. But this brings up the question of a drain
hole in the door. It seems that water might enter the door via the shoot
bolts while the aircraft is parked and collect unless drain holes are
provided. Does this happen in practice? Should drain holes be drilled, and
if so what size and where? (The Europa factory seems to credit me with more
common sense on questions like this than I actually have.)
The inset onto which the window is bonded is 1/2" on 3 sides but the front
inset is 3/4" wide. A trim line at 1/2" is clearly visible on this inset. Is
this a revision to strengthen the door or should it be trimmed to the line?
Hope others can profit from my errors.
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting windows |
In message <970318225610_100421.2123_JHU28-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, Graham
Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> writes
>et hold of at least 6 long luggage straps, the type used to hold your
>windsurfer on your car roof, trial fit the door screens one at a time using the
>straps right round the fuselage to hold each doorscreen in place.
I didn't, but I wish I had, used the ones you can winch tight - rather
than the ones you just pull tight.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RO tri-gear conversion |
At long last, the tri-gear conversion is completed on G-OURO, which had
previously flown as a monowheel for some 25 hours. My first reaction is
that it has all been worth the wait & frustration, my second reaction is
that I think it looks bloody marvellous, and my third reaction is that of
sheer delight at the way the aircraft handles in the air and especially on
the ground - you can scarcely believe it.
Having the benefit of the extra 25% power which the NSI Subaru EA81 gives
means that G-OURO's tri-gear performance is decidedly brisk - take-off rolls
are around 200m even on grass (firm) with two fairly weighty occupants and
around 35 litres of fuel, with landing rolls around 125m, measured quite
accurately, and with approx. 8 knots headwind component. Top speed has
dropped from 139k to 130k, which means a realistic cruise of around 120k,
perhaps a shade less. All figures without spats and leg fairings.
Landings are a revelation - it just sort of plops on and stays there - you
will have gathered that I didn't graduate from the Chuck Yaeger School of
Flying - but there doesn't seem to be any better way to describe it ...
Take-offs are simply a matter of applying power, holding it straight with a
dab of (left) toe-brake and waiting no more than a couple of seconds until
comes unstuck, and seconds later she flies off all by herself so to speak.
Absolutely no dramas, and behold, the joy of flying has returned.
Coupled with the actual u/c mod, I have performed major surgery to the
interior, in particular the central arm-rest/wheel-well, which has simply
transformed the cockpit comfort levels. This mod, done with the essential
benefit of the stress report from Barry Mellers at Slingsby Aviation, is now
approved by the PFA - if anyone wishes to go the same route, let me know and
I can provide copies of the report on a shared-cost basis - the more, the
cheaper!
The weight penalty appears to be around 30lbs, which may or may not be a
problem, depending on what you started with, the runway surfaces you'll
operate from and engine power available etc.
Well, it's done now, no other routes to go down - but first impressions are
often lasting, and I'm -very- impressed so far. If you're happy with the
mono-wheel Europa, that's fine; but if, like me, you had those nasty little
worms in your head nibbling away at your self-confidence, you could do a lot
worse than look at joining the "born-again triker club".
Safe and Happy Flying
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
>>I wrote <10 lbs of instruments will move the cg back .. to 59.5"><<
You might note that the VP prop you will no doubt want to fit at some stage will
shove the CG so far forward that you may need tail ballast to allow your
passenger to board the aircraft.
Those of you reading this have presumably got a spreadsheet. That's the quick
and accurate way to play with the weight and balance.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | The balancing act |
Those of you reading this have presumably got a spreadsheet. That's the quick
and accurate way to play with the weight and balance.
Or get yourself a Psion 3a and Haggis Software's flight planning software. The
software is a complete flight planning system cofg calculator. It even draws your
cofg box showing takeoff and landing cofg's Nice thing is that you can take
it in the plane with you and throw away your wiz wheel.
Tony
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <101327.626(at)compuserve.com> |
Splash Moldings / Latch cover plates,
John Moran wrote:-
>> I laid up the splash moldings and found that they didn't follow the
>>contour because the plastic film prevents the epoxy/glass from adhering to
>>the form.
We coated the door frame with thick grease before applying cling film as the
parting layer. This caused it to stick closely to the frame and it produced
perfectly fitting latch cover plates.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G-OURO tri-gear conversion |
>>David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
Born-again Triker <<
Delighted to hear you're pleased with it after all the extra work, Dave.
It's good to have some before and after figures too. Gkits has never given us a
real comparison, except with regard to the ease of ground control.
I can verify that G-OURO looks the business. Be interesting to hear what wheel
pants and leggings do for the performance.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
>
>
> Those of you reading this have presumably got a spreadsheet. That's the quick
> and accurate way to play with the weight and balance.
>
> Or get yourself a Psion 3a and Haggis Software's flight planning software. The
software is a complete flight planning system cofg
calculator. It even draws you
>
> Tony
>
Tony,
Haven't got the 'plug-in' to be able to translate the attachment. Is it
Excel? Only have Excel 4.0. Can you send it in a different form? Not up
on this yet. Still got a steam driven 486sx/25 with windows 3.1!!!!!
Cheers,
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | The balancing act |
>
>Those of you reading this have presumably got a spreadsheet. That's the quick
>and accurate way to play with the weight and balance.
>
>Attachment Converted: C:\AVNET\EUDORA\REEurop8
>
Perhaps those who send attachments can note what format they are in so we
can play with them....
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
Graham,
What type of capacitance fuel gauge did you use, and why was it the
preferred Europa option?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No 236
The Aussie Connection
>>> I still like the relatively foolproof "fuel in a sight tube" arrangement as
>specified with the kit!<<>
>So would I if it was. (foolproof) It needs the mod to remove it's
sensitivity to
>fuel pressure and the probability of sucking air into the fuel line.
>I like the Capacitance type of sensor, it warns if there's water in the tank by
>going full scale.
>Graham
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <Petermdavis(at)compuserve.com> |
In reply to John Moran's missive about the door latches - I'm glad someone
else found this operation at least as exciting as I did. However John, it
sounds like you are still relatively sane after it all!
Oh, having just read Edward Gladstone's comment about using grease to get
cling film to stay put, I found that wetting the offending part with water
worked just fine too.
Regards,
Peter D (154)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting windows |
On Tue, 18 Mar 1997, John Bampfylde wrote:
> >I wonder if anyone has any tips on fitting the transparent bits. I have opted
> >Roger Lloyd uk6
> Regarding protection, I have seen that water based white
> wood glue (I forget its name) used. Water it down and paint it on. It will
> stop all sorts of nasties from getting to the screen. In addition, you can
> peel it off when finished.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> John Bampfylde, #130
The US military does this for aircraft in long - term storage :
)
Regards , Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
>>What type of capacitance fuel gauge did you use, and why was it the
preferred Europa option?<<
We used a Westach, it was the easiest to get hold of at the time. Rather cheaply
made but has been OK. Europa didn't recommend it. They said "keep it simple" A
good principle, but unfortunately one can oversimplify things and come a
cropper. The original design of sight gauge plumbing had a fault which I wasn't
prepared to incorporate into GKWhip. Since corrected, I'm glad to note.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Gauges |
>>This would appear to be a capcacitance gauge, but at somewhat less
cost than the Westach etc. It is caveated "for water only"<<
Capacitance gauges for fuel generally go effectively short circuit when exposed
to water. Sounds worth investigation, though.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | pa #152 Instrument Panel |
Europa #152 Instrument Panel
I have recently updated my web site to include pictures of my instrument panel
which I have been slowly putting together over the winter months.
I wanted a nice neat panel, so I purchased one of those power panels from
Aircraft Spruce which has all the switches and circuit breakers already put
together in one place. It fits nicely in the space normally alotted to the
engine instruments. This meant that the engine instruments had to be moved to a
vertical column position on the right hand panel. As I didn't like the VDO ones
normally supplied, I went for the Mitchell ones which you can take apart to
stick the limit lines on the dial face.
The instrument panel has yet to have the radio, transponder and GPS fitted. The
photo does feature 'hotspots' so you can click on each instrument and get more
details.
It can found on the Internet at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mjkt
or via the Europa Club Home Page.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Vowell" <Chris_Vowell(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | G-OURO tri-gear conversion |
Coupled with the actual u/c mod, I have performed major surgery to the
interior, in particular the central arm-rest/wheel-well, which has simply
transformed the cockpit comfort levels. This mod, done with the essential
benefit of the stress report from Barry Mellers at Slingsby Aviation, is now
approved by the PFA - if anyone wishes to go the same route, let me know and I
can provide copies of the report on a shared-cost basis - the more, the
cheaper!
The weight penalty appears to be around 30lbs, which may or may not be a
problem, depending on what you started with, the runway surfaces you'll
operate from and engine power available etc.
David,
As someone who is about to purchase Kit 1 of the Europa, I'm particularly
interested in the tri-gear option and keenly read your observations about
handling differences. Can you expand on the following:
1. With the increased power of the Subaru, are the poor, rough field take-off
characteristics of the tri-gear relative to the mono-wheel overcome? Although
I shall primarily be operating the plane from a hard runway, there will
inevitably be the occasional need to fly into grass strips.
2. What exactly is the central arm-rest mod you carried out? Can you expand
on what it is and what the benefits are?
3. How did you find the Subaru installation compared to the Rotax? Were
there
any problems I should be aware of? From my own experience I found that the
Subaru to be a wonderful engine. (In Brunei, I had to drive a Subaru a mile
through 3 foot deep floods and, even though the engine was below the waterline
with water coming to the base of the windshield, it still kept going. A
colleague in his BMW wasn't so lucky. Needless to say, I hope that this
operating characteristic won't be required for a Subaru powered A/C, even on
grass strips!)
(I've just thought about that - how's about a floatplane version of the
Europa!?)
Regards
Chris Vowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
| Subject: | -Servo Tab dimensions |
I'm a little confused over the measurements for removing the trim
tab from the tailplane.
Fig 25 on page 4-16 (issue 3) shows a dimension of 155mm from the
trailing edge along the tab tip. However on the bottom surface the
distance from the same point on the trailing edge to the middle of
the slot line is more like 162mm on my tailplane. This means when
you cut the tab off it's leading face is effectively twisted as
the root measurements are identical top and bottom.
OK, so what am I doing wrong ?
- Dave Howard
#309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | citance Gauge for sale |
I think I have one of the fuel capacitance gauges which I shall not be
using.
It came with a kit plane and I shall be using a float and magnetic switch
type.
If someone would like to buy the Capacitance one its up for sale.
Details - Made by SkySports - Brand spanking new
24 inch sender (can be cut - minimum length 13 inch)
Guage 21/4 inch standard SkySports
Complete with insatllation kit and installation guide.
I reckon its worth about 100 if anyone is interested.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | markt(at)avnet.co.uk (Mark Talbot) |
On Saturday 22nd March 1997 G-BWCV (Monowheel Subaru E81 100hp) took to the
air for the first time. Melvin Cross did the honours at Kemble and I am
immensely grateful to him, Graham Brunwin and Neil France for all the help
they have given to help make this moment possible. G-BWCV was conceived 3
years ago, so she has been a long and frustrating time in the womb! Melvin
says she flies beautifully, with no out of balance forces. From the ground
she was amazingly quiet.
Now to find out the truth about the monowheel with Martin Stoner!!
Mark Talbot (North Yorks)
Mark Talbot (Europa G-BWCV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Anti-Servo Tab dimensions |
David,
Have you made sure that your measurement lines are measured correctly. You will
note from the diagram that there are a couple of 90 degree indicators which have
to be correct in order to get the measurements correct. I found that a pair
of dividers and a trammel (- overgrown divider used to establish transition
curves on my model railway) came in handy in order to establish the point of intersection.
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
-----Original Message-----
From: D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk [SMTP:D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 1997 4:25 AM
Subject: Anti-Servo Tab dimensions
you cut the tab off it's leading face is effectively twisted as
the root measurements are identical top and bottom.
OK, so what am I doing wrong ?
- Dave Howard
#309
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Stewart <alans(at)kbss.bt.co.uk> |
Does anyone in the Essex/Kent/Hertfordshire/Suffolk
area own a Europa trailer or similar that I could borrow/rent for a couple of
days ??.
alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Being an inquisitive sort of person I recently placed my two aileron cores on top
of each other just to see if they had the same washout (which they did). What
surprised me was that the port aileron was 7mm longer than the port aileron.
After some head scratching I examined the cores carefully and sure enough, the
main aileron cores are of different length.
I wrote a fax to Europa, sent it off and today received a reply.
I beg Andy's forgiveness for publishing his reply but I do think it is important
enough for other builders to see....
"The aileron tooling has been checked and found to have the anomaly you have found
in your cores.
It appears that the shorter dimension is correct and you may have to sand the end
of one aileron to avoid it fouling with either the flap or the wing tip.
Apologies for any inconvenience"
What amazes me is that I am builder number 272 and the first to have actually noticed
it. But then again, how many other people try to mate ailerons for a hobby
:)
As I am having to remake my port aileron because the washout is wrong I am going
to reduce the new core length at the same time so I have my ailerons the same
length at layup time.
The new aileron layup procedure to reduce the factory supplied washout of 1.4 degrees
to the required 0.6 degrees is very easy to do. I followed Miles' recommendation
to micro the core gap to the bench once the end is shimmed up. The new
procedure only adds around 20 minutes to the layup time.
Tony
#272 [Looking forward to some sun 'n fun after a summer of cyclones]
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The balancing act |
In a message dated 19/03/97 23:05:17, you write:
>You might note that the VP prop you will no doubt want to fit at some stage
>will shove the CG so far forward that you may need tail ballast
Yes I will, but some rear ballast has yet to come from computing power.. I
researched an extra generator for the Rotax for this, but was only offered
one giving 40a , weighing a ton, costing a bomb and of doubtful fit under the
cowling anyway !
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Subaru engine--do you like it? |
>Hello--
>
> I'd be very interested to hear a bit more about your experiences with
>the NSI Subaru. I've been to their factory and know Lance Wheeler; in
>fact, a good friend of mine is their new test pilot.
Peter, thanks for your comments re my subaru/tri-gear/europa.
Yes, the "sprag clutch" has given some trouble - in fact mine entered the
"first mode of failure" quite quickly - it became stiff to turn by hand
after about 20 hours. NSI were immediately informed, by which time we had
learnt of the failure in the States. However, we also learnt that the US
customer had insisted on NSI delivering the transmission unit for his EA81
Europa before the factory had tested it, as he was determined to fly-in to
Oshkosh last year come hell or high water. NSI reluctantly agreed to the
customers request, and the subsequent failure occurred, due, we believe, to
running the engine (and untried/untested transmission!) at full power all
the way to Oshkosh in order to meet a deadline there ...
Well, NSI have since modified the transmission unit and no further
"problems" have shown up. My experiences with NSI have been most positive,
and I think the EA81 is an excellent power unit for the Europa, in spite of
its extra 80lbs or so weight viz-a-viz the Rotax 912. In fact, as you are
operating from an airport elevation of over 9000ft, other than the very
expensive and complex Rotax 914, do you have much choice? The 140hp turbo
version with the NSI CAP seems ideal.
The CAP has performed very well on the "trial horse" Europa here in the UK,
and it seems that most of the Subaru-powered Europas here will go for it. I
am currently running with the ground-adjustable 64" diameter Warp Drive
prop, and it does seem to be doing the job so far - the additional weight of
the trike conversion (around 28lbs) may prohibit adding the extra weight of
10lbs for the CAP, which, if fitted, would need some 5lbs of lead in the
tail to get the CoG back in range!
If I were to start building a Europa again, I would be -ultra- weight
conscious, something I developed far too late in the build process, i.e.
when I had finished the damned thing! The standard Europa with the 912
engine is weighing -in at anything between 735 lbs and 812lbs, quite a
staggering spread.
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | G-OURO tri-gear conversion |
Chris Vowell - re your comments on my tri-gear conversion
1. The increased power of the Subaru engine will be a big advantage when
operating my trike from grass strips - by definition, the tri-gear will
never be as good as the mono-wheel version, but I don't think this will be a
problem on the sort of grass fields I will be using.
2. The cockpit mod essentially removes that part of the tunnel which
occupies the space between the two occupants - benefit, more room!
3. I would indeed recommend the Subaru engine - it is very smooth in
operation, gives 25% more power, highly recommended if not essential for
two-up grass strip work.
Good luck with your Europa when you finally decide to buy it
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>You sound like one happy man!. I am just starting a tri-gear Europa
>and would like to here more of the cockpit conversion.
>
>regards
>Dennis
>
>#333-Only 2490 hours to go and enjoying every minute!
Dennis, it would take too long - come to the PFA Rally at Cranfield and have
a look!
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
David Dufton wrote:
>
> >You sound like one happy man!. I am just starting a tri-gear Europa
> >and would like to here more of the cockpit conversion.
> >
> >regards
> >Dennis
> >
> >#333-Only 2490 hours to go and enjoying every minute!
>
> Dennis, it would take too long - come to the PFA Rally at Cranfield and have
> a look!
> ____
> David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
> Born-again Triker 0/ \0
> e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
>
>
>
Hello David,
Glad to hear the tri gear has turned out so well. Is there any chance we
might see it before Cranfield. ie- where is it hangared - at Kemble or
in sunny Norfolk. Flew by your way a couple of weeks ago on our way to
Cromer. Would have dropped in if we,d known where you were Little
Snoring ?
Happy flying
Carl Pattinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk (Eddie Hatcher) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Cores |
>Being an inquisitive sort of person I recently placed my two aileron cores
on top of each other just to see if they had the same washout (which they
did). What surprised me was that the port aileron was 7mm longer than the
port aileron. After some head scratching I examined the cores carefully and
sure enough, the main aileron cores are of different length.
Why does that not suprise me, You should see the state of our leading edge
cores, I haven't even looked at the aileron cores yet.
Just as a matter of interest, did any of the early builders have core
distortions, or is this a more recent thing. I wasn't going to say anything
at first, but it is really begining to slow us down now, what with the
various attempts to straighten the outer and mid leading eadge cores.
Indeed, can you straighten them by applying a counter distortion in the
opposite direction to the warp and leave them for a period of time, because
pulling them straight and applying lashings of micro is not working very
well. They just ping back. Basically it means that we are going to have to
do one hell of a lot of filling on the wing surface, which I was hoping to
avoid by using peel ply over the whole surface and just filling local
fluctuations.
Still with my little gripe out of the way I think that I am still enjoying
myself.
Keep building people
//// Eddie Hatcher //// Kit 279 /////
//// South East London Flying Group /////
//// bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk /////
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Cores |
>>did any of the early builders have core distortions, or is this a more recent
thing<<
Yes we did. When we laid the cores on the spar (LE) we laid a long piece of
straight 2" X 2" steel angle on the leading edge to hold the cores straight.
Then again after initial cure of the layup to keep the LE straight as it went
through final cure.
Trouble is when you hot wire a core from a Styrofoam log, the internal stresses
are unpredictable and that's what causes the distortion.
Frustrating for everyone.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Cores |
Best bit a bit cautious on the idea of peel plying the whole thing.
While it gives a lovely surface, I've heard reports that the peel ply
can wick too much resin up into itself, thus starving the underlying
layups.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | er Closeout Tip?? |
Gidday,
For the rudder closeout I am stuck wondering whether I should do the layup
of the bid on plastic, or the conventional way. I feel for later down the
track I should practice the plastic technique, however I worry about the
second ply prohibiting the first ply, and itself, from contouring to the
reducing radius of the closeout toward the tip?
Any Tips would be appreciated before I launch!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No 236
The Aussie Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Link Rod Lateral Mod?? |
Gidday,
Some time ago several messages were circulated by people wanting to
stabilise the lateral flexing of this Link Rod when removing the tailplanes.
People suggested attaching discs just inboard of the fuselage that would
prevent lateral movement, other than the small tolerance for inflight
clearance, or a vertical guide. Did anyone actually get around to fitting
these mods, and if so what worked best?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No 236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
This is for Graham S. or anyone else who can help with anodising "before"
installation/bonding. Has anyone left an anodised component UNabraded before
bonding eg. the W18 flap anchorage brackets? Are most people predrilling
these? Is there a negative in bundling up all my metalwork and getting it
all anodised, such as a greater tendency to continue to corrode?
Thanks in advance
Regards
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Trim Tab Link Rod Lateral Mod |
Tail Trim Tab Link Rod Lateral Mod
Yes I used a couple of disks of 3/16 inch (5 mm) ply (each side had a coating of
epoxy for protection). The diameter (about 1.5 inches) is determined by the
distance between the aft most position of the link rod and the rudder close-out
plywood on the port side. They stop any tendancy for the link rod to pull out
with the tailplanes as well as stabilising the rod within the fuselage when the
tailplanes are not attached. I don't know whether you would need PFA approval in
the UK (or Oz) for these plates as it is such a simple solution.
Rudder Close-out (fuselage)
Boy, this has to be the stickiest layup - but probably one of the last you have
to do. If like me your fin was vertical and leaning back slightly getting a 4 ft
long strip of bid in there is a bit like trying to paper the ceiling - except
bid stretches. Once you get the first layup in you then have to put in 2 long
strips of uni, lengthways, into both closeout corners. Uni cut lengthways (again
4 ft long or so) wants to pull apart and you end up with long strands of glass
wanting to come off even once you get the strips in.
Once the hinge stiffeners are in you have to get another closing layer of bid in
there.
With hindsight I certainly would have used plastic sheeting to hold everything
together while you get the glass in there although I think any way is difficult
and messy because you are working in such a confined - relatively deep channel.
Rudder Close-out (rudder)
If you are talking about the rudder itself then I wouldn't try to get the odd
little shaped piece at the top of the rudder 'right first time' as I defy anyone
to even guess at the really weird shape required. Like me you may also want to
adjust the length of the rudder slightly when you finally attach it to the
fuselage (the final length of the rudder closeout may vary due to a build up of
tolerances caused by the lower fuselage/upper fuselage/fin joints).
Hope this helps anyone at these stages.
Happy Easter!
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
Would someone please supply me with the completed wing dimensions. I am
about to fix some brackets to the workshop wall to hold the partly built
wings between different stages of the build. I am particularly interested
in the finished chord length at the tip and the root; and the measurement
from the leading edge side of the spar to the trailing edge of the flap. I
want to fasten the brackets as far up the wall as I can so I can store the
completed wings out of the way while I am working on the fuselage.
Cheers,
Mike Parkin (No 312 / G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Cores |
You have my sympathy, I have had a similar problem with the leading edge
cores. The warping on my S1 and S2 manifested itself in a bow at the
leading edge which was very prominent when viewed along the leading edge.
I managed to take most of the warp out by slitting down the side of the
outer 5 min epoxy 'blobs' whilst leaving the centre blobs intact. I then
used packing in the slot ends, which effectively opens the slots a little;
when you have the blocks lined up to your satisfaction, put new 5 min epoxy
blobs in and then remove the packing. This process took the warp out apart
from the odd inconsistency. However, while you are doing this, take great
care as the effective height of the blocks changes and you can end up with
a mis-match between the blocks resulting in a rippled leading edge.
Regards,
Mike Parkin (No 312, G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk (Eddie Hatcher) |
Thanks for the replies , so it seems that we are not the only ones to have
core distortions after all.
with reference to peel plying the whole surface, we have had concern over
this also, but our concern layed with the possible extra weight it may cause
as we noticed the resin layer to be quite thick. that said, having done one
leading edge with peel ply, we will at least do the other the same, and
think carefully about using this method again in the future.
cheers all
//// Eddie Hatcher //// Kit 279 /////
//// South East London Flying Group /////
//// bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk /////
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
| Subject: | er Hinges, Lightening Slots |
Could anyone answer a couple of questions for me?
1: Do the rudder hinges require further chemical treatment before fitting?
2: My inspector has warned me that the glass hides nothing, particulary
with regard to the lightening hole slots. Do you allow the
dry micro filler to partly/completely cure before spreading the slurry?...
or is this not needed?
Many thanks.
Dennis Lowe
#333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Having failed to come up with any solid reasons NOT to fit a BRS to the
FLYER Europa, we are going for it: the unit has been ordered.
There has been some speculation as to why we want to fit a BRS to such a
capable aeroplane; the primary reason is to get the ball rolling in the UK
(it's been illegal to fit one over here so far -but the CAA have opened the
door a crack, so we are intent on charging through...) Other than that, ask
any military pilot how they like the black and yellow handle between their
legs: No one ever want to use it, but it's a very comforting form of insurance!
I have spent the last month or so learning the rudiments of how to use
Autocad Lt, and I'm about half way through sketching out the installation.
The final details will be worked out "in situ" using a dummy BRS unit, but
when the drawing are in a fit state to be seen, I'll post them (as a DFX
file) on the Avnet FTP for interested parties to download: I'll let you
know when that happens.
Briefly, the BRS cannister will be mounted half in the aft cockpit bulkhead,
pointing up and aft. It's designed to be easily removed for servicing, and
for access down the back end. The primary attach strap (5/16 cable) will run
up the centerline, down the windshield, to the U/C-engine mount frame. the
secondary straps (kevlar) will run down the fuselage sides to the top/bottom
split line, and attach to inserts in the aft bulkhead. these straps will be
in molded in "external" channels covered with 2 layers of bid over peel ply:
on deployment, they will rip out.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Cores |
At 22:01 27/03/97 GMT, you wrote:
>Why does that not suprise me, You should see the state of our leading edge
>cores, I haven't even looked at the aileron cores yet.
>
>Just as a matter of interest, did any of the early builders have core
>distortions, or is this a more recent thing.
We all suffer from this;There are residual stresses in the foam (from
manufacturng) which is released as they are cut up/hot wired.
In practice, if you bond the leading edge cores on accurately (in relation
with each other, as well as onto the spar) with 2X2 L section holding the LE
straight, most of the distortions disappear, and the bi-ax cloth tends to
remove most of the rest when it's laid up: It seems worse than it actually is.
Miles.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Trim Tab Link Rod Lateral Mod?? |
In a message dated 28/03/97 11:08:53, you write:
>discs just inboard of the fuselage that would
>prevent lateral movement
Didn't work for me due proximity of fin closeout, but the extra vertical
bulkhead ( of thin ply) with a slot is working fine.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | hts and c.of. g's |
On 18.3 Roger (of Europa) supplied a list of APS c.of. g's for flying
Europas. The new Europa Flyer carries a list of empty weights( Ron ?). Is
either of these authors able to merge the two , preferably with builders
names too. I would dearly like to research the correlation of these figures
with particular characteristics of the aircraft, particularly instrument
module weights and any other possible weight contributing factors ( paint,
upholstery ?)
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBray2277(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | X 582 "C"BOX OIL LEAK |
I HAVE A OIL LEAK ON MY 582 "C" BOX ENGINE
I BELIEVE THERE IS A POSSIBLE DESIGN PROBLEM WHERE THE INPUT SHAFT IS SEALED
IN "C" BOX
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED
THANKS,
RBRAY2277(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Hinges, Lightening Slots |
>>1: Do the rudder hinges require further chemical treatment before fitting?
No
2: My inspector has warned me that the glass hides nothing, particulary
with regard to the lightening hole slots. Do you allow the
dry micro filler to partly/completely cure before spreading the slurry?...
No, make it thick enough so that it won't run
or is this not needed?
when you do the layup, scrape as much as
you can off the foam before applying the
glass.
If possible fill and sand as long as pssible before final painting. Even epoxy
shrinks a little. You are unlikely to see the lightening hole slots, but you
will see the ribs and spars after a year or so.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>> the CAA have opened the door a crack, so we are intent on charging
through...<<
Good on yer. I think it's totally out of order that CAA should disallow such a
well proven safety device, just because of some firework regulation.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodising Revisited |
>>Has anyone left an anodised component UNabraded before
bonding eg. the W18 flap anchorage brackets?<<
Probably best to abrade, but well below the eventual surface only. You should be
anodising and sealing, hot water or dichromate. The sealing tends to reduce
bonding strength. Dichromate sealing is said to restore fatigue strength that
has been reduced by anodising.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>>> the CAA have opened the door a crack, so we are intent on charging
>through...<<
>
>Good on yer. I think it's totally out of order that CAA should disallow such a
>well proven safety device, just because of some firework regulation.
They've abandoned this line of defence -in fact, having seen a copy of the
CAA's BRS requirement, it boils down to a placard that you must fit that
says "Pull the red handle, and the CAA isn't responsible for what happens
after that..."
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Anodising Revisited |
>>>Has anyone left an anodised component UNabraded before
>bonding eg. the W18 flap anchorage brackets?<<
>
>Probably best to abrade, but well below the eventual surface only.
Do you mean abrade through the anodising and into the original surface material?
You should be anodising and sealing, hot water or dichromate. The sealing
tends to reduce bonding strength. Dichromate sealing is said to restore
fatigue strength that has been reduced by anodising.
What method did you use? What is the reference to hot water?
>
Tony R.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
There are numerous elaborations on this theme beyond Peter Kembers "rod in
the slot" method, involving ratchets, plungers etc. but at the end of the day
why not adopt the "lever in gate" principle used for the undercarriage.
It only involves filing a wider section at the back of a tunnel plate and
biassing the lever.
If you bias the lever towards the gate you could conceivably have a problem
with repeaed heavy braking movements snagging the gate at the extreme So the
gate should be on side away from the pilot so then natural pull prevents
this. Otherwise (or as well) bias away from the gate, shaping the front of
it so that it cannot come out sidways again having been pushed in.
Adjustment when required is readily obtained by using slots in the plate
attachment bolt boles.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
My plan on the parking brake is to fit a high quality tap and a one way
valve in parallel: the tap will be placed in such a way that it intrudes
into the pilots leg when on (probably under the right thigh).
Considering a LH throttle (using a push/pull), but would actually like to
fit dual throttles... Anyone come up with a scheme to link 2 thottle cables
to one throttle?
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
Dear Miles I have organised a quadrant throttle for my left hand tho with
my size it reqiires careful siting to miss knees ect' I have coupled it
using two cables one feeding in the front of the original throttle housing
and one feeding into the rear. they each connect to the original throttle
quadrant arm and thus form a closed loop control which means that each seat
has the throttle in near enough the same place. I looked at Peters brake
arrangement but given the size of my legs I could not operate his brake. I
have fitted a cable from a hand control on the stick to the existing
cylinder which works OK but I am not sure that it is a really good solution
I may yet try and mount a controll co-axialy with the throttle quadrant??
but working on a different part of the circle. Keep well All the best Ron S
No 33.
PS I am not that huge really 6ft almost 14 stone but my legs grew fairly big
due to cycling up all those Yorkshire hills when I was a kid and even with
the LA mod there isn't a lot of room to spare in the Europa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
>>There are numerous elaborations on this theme beyond Peter Kembers "rod in
the slot" method, involving ratchets, plungers etc. but at the end of the day
why not adopt the "lever in gate" principle used for the undercarriage. <<
I still think Jon Tye's cam is the neatest and most practical. Take a 1 1/4"
disc, drill a 3/16" hole 1/4" from one edge. Drill another hole in the console
5/16" in front of the brake lever and put an anchor nut behind it. Nylon washer
between the disc and the console for friction All it needs now is a handle, not
too long that it can foul the throttle. We cut our cam and handle from a piece
of aluminium angle. With the brake off the handle lies back along the edge of
the console.
If the brake system is fully bled, ie no air in it, the brake will be quite
solid. The lever only comes back an 1/8th of an inch or so for full braking
power. However, the pads wear and the system isn't self adjusting, so the
movement will slowly increase. Allow for another 3/8th inch of movement in your
cam system. When you top up pull the lever gently back before taking the filler
cap off, then slowly add fluid and simultaneously allow the lever to return
keeping air out of the high point, which is the front end of the master
cylinder.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kerry Lamb" <kerrylamb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
There have been so many elegent solutions mentioned for this piece that I
almost hesitate to say this (fools rush in, right?):
Why not use reuse the stretchie bungie cord, or a section of it? To me
this seems simple, light, cheap (!), and effective no matter if the brake
pads wear a bit.
Kerry
----------
> From: Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com>
> Subject: Re: Parking brake
> Date: Monday, March 31, 1997 7:02 PM
>
> >>There are numerous elaborations on this theme beyond Peter Kembers "rod
in
> the slot" method, involving ratchets, plungers etc. but at the end of the
day
> why not adopt the "lever in gate" principle used for the undercarriage.
<<
>
> I still think Jon Tye's cam is the neatest and most practical. Take a 1
1/4"
> disc, drill a 3/16" hole 1/4" from one edge. Drill another hole in the
console
> 5/16" in front of the brake lever and put an anchor nut behind it. Nylon
washer
> between the disc and the console for friction All it needs now is a
handle, not
> too long that it can foul the throttle. We cut our cam and handle from a
piece
> of aluminium angle. With the brake off the handle lies back along the
edge of
> the console.
>
> If the brake system is fully bled, ie no air in it, the brake will be
quite
> solid. The lever only comes back an 1/8th of an inch or so for full
braking
> power. However, the pads wear and the system isn't self adjusting, so the
> movement will slowly increase. Allow for another 3/8th inch of movement
in your
> cam system. When you top up pull the lever gently back before taking the
filler
> cap off, then slowly add fluid and simultaneously allow the lever to
return
> keeping air out of the high point, which is the front end of the master
> cylinder.
>
> Graham
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
The problem is, of course, that if you're using a Teleflex-style dual
cable to link one throttle to the other, one or the other end of it will
be running "the wrong way." Incidentally, such cable is available quite
cheaply at marine stores, either for remote engine throttles or for
remote steering arrangements for small outboard engines.
Before going further, please bear in mind that I'm nowhere near Kit 4
yet, so I have only the vaguest idea of how it works on the Europa as
normally fitted...
Anyway, what springs to mind is to make the left-side throttle arm
fairly long, with a pivot at the center--thus as the handle moves
forward, the bottom part moves aft, imparting a push to the cable. The
cable, in its sheath, then runs aft from the left-side throttle, makes a
turn inboard through the seatback/tank structure, turns forward again,
and connects with the "as designed" throttle linkage. About the only
tricky part will be to route the cable such as not to violate its
minimum curve radius constraints, but some types can make remarkably
sharp turns.
I guess my other thought would be that training oneself to execute the
desired maneuvers--landings, akro, etc--with the left hand costs less
and weighs nothing!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello
Europa G-BWDP now flying in Germany (EDHL:Lbeck close to Hamburg).
We purchased the plane (former owner Mr Ian Valentine, Dungannon), last year
operated by Mr Martin Stoner from Tetbury/Kemble.
We have to say many thanks to Martin for ferrying G-BWDP from Harwich to
Hamburg and for introduction flying the aircraft safe & well.
We
Jens Brockmann, ATPL
Dirk Linke, PPL
Harald Linke, PPL
will enjoy to fly the plane.
Harald
delphimed@t-online.de
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Anti-Servo Tab dimensions |
A week or so ago I posted a question asking whether the cuts on
the top and bottom of the tailplanes to create the tabs should be
directly above one another.
Thanks to those who replied (Tony K.), but the answer from talking
to Roger at the factory appears to be that they are not supposed
to be, i.e. they are aligned at the root but then taper by
differing amount with the top surface cut not running parallel
The second tab done this weekend has turned out much the same. I'm
still dubious and next time I see another Europa I'll be out with
my tape measure.
- Dave Howard
#309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
Mike, you wrote:
<< Would someone please supply me with the completed wing dimensions. I am
about to fix some brackets to the workshop wall to hold the partly built
wings between different stages of the build >>
you will need a wall 4.5m long by 2.3m high to fit the wings sans flaps
and ailerons. stagger them slightly to allow for the tips on the lower one if
they are not on yet.
~~~~~
Miles, when's the first flight scheduled for; November 5th !!!!!
chus, dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
what springs to mind is to make the left-side throttle arm
>fairly long, with a pivot at the center--thus as the handle moves
>forward, the bottom part moves aft, imparting a push to the cable. The
>cable, in its sheath, then runs aft from the left-side throttle, makes a
>turn inboard through the seatback/tank structure, turns forward again,
>and connects with the "as designed" throttle linkage.
The reason that I put forward a push/pull throttle is that I drew up a
rather tasteful quadrant, trying to get a bit of style into it (and it does
look good) -only to discover at Kemble, once I sat in a finished aeroplane,
that there weren't no room! I haven't tried Peter Kember's high mounted LH
throttle for comfort, but suspect that I wouldn't be happy with the position.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
>>Why not use reuse the stretchie bungie cord, or a section of it? To me
this seems simple, light, cheap (!), and effective no matter if the brake
pads wear a bit.<<
If you mean, slip it over the lever to pull the brake on, it won't work. You
need quite a pull to stop the airplane rolling at full power. Power checks,
starting run up etc. is the time we use the parking brake.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Weights and c.of. g's |
I can list the names and registrations conected to the weights I published
in the last Europa Club Flyer, but I think it should be done privately. I
have already listed the engines that were appropriate for the weights, but I
do not have any further information as to what could have possibly accounted
for the weight differences.
I will be going to Sun n Fun so hope to see some of you there.
Dave Watts (builder 229 and Flyer Editor).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
Dear Miles I agree that siting the thottle is not easy but I think it is
just about possible on the left. I have never achieved the same degree
control of anything, even hammers with my left hand, as I easily manage with
my right and as the stick is by far and away the most important control then
I would still prefer a right hand stick even if it means the throttle is not
as easy to get at as one would desire. Ron S No33
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Recently I tried to open up Eurochat and got presented with the following
000A:11EB An error occurred while attempting to initialise the Borland
Database Engine (error $2108).
Can anyone shed any light on this, and a tip on how to import the files from
Eudoras In Mailbox? I would redownload the whole thing from the ftp site
but I seem to have other gremlins in my Netscape.
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
>Miles, when's the first flight scheduled for; November 5th !!!!!
Um, personally, I hope that it's a useless piece of dead weight that robs us
of payload and fuel. Just in case there is any doubt over the issue, the
first time it'll be tested is in anger.... and I hope there won't be a first
time!
Miles.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
>Would someone please supply me with the completed wing dimensions. I am
>about to fix some brackets to the workshop wall to hold the partly built
>wings between different stages of the build. I am particularly interested
>in the finished chord length at the tip and the root; and the measurement
>from the leading edge side of the spar to the trailing edge of the flap. I
>want to fasten the brackets as far up the wall as I can so I can store the
>completed wings out of the way while I am working on the fuselage.
>
The full chord of the wing is 50" at the root, and 40" at the tip. You can
get your other measurements by subtracting your spar to leading edge
dimension as made - remembering that one wing is 1.25" greater than the other.
regards
Roger
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weights and c.of. g's |
>On 18.3 Roger (of Europa) supplied a list of APS c.of. g's for flying
>Europas. The new Europa Flyer carries a list of empty weights( Ron ?). Is
>either of these authors able to merge the two , preferably with builders
>names too. I would dearly like to research the correlation of these figures
>with particular characteristics of the aircraft, particularly instrument
>module weights and any other possible weight contributing factors ( paint,
>upholstery ?)
>
>Graham C.
Graham,
I purposely did not include weights or identifications of individual
aircraft because we did not have owners' permission to publish, and I felt
that some owners may not want their weights broadcast to everyone,
particularly if they were very heavy!
Regards,
Roger
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS project/CAA |
On Sun, 30 Mar 1997, Miles McCallum wrote:
> >>> the CAA have opened the door a crack, so we are intent on charging
> >through...<<
> >
> >Good on yer. I think it's totally out of order that CAA should disallow such
a
> >well proven safety device, just because of some firework regulation.
>
> They've abandoned this line of defence -in fact, having seen a copy of the
> CAA's BRS requirement, it boils down to a placard that you must fit that
> says "Pull the red handle, and the CAA isn't responsible for what happens
> after that..."
>
> Miles
Sounds familiar ? The CCA has statuory powers * without *
a " Duty of Care"
- as far as I can gather - at least where overseeing of aircraft maintainance
is concerned. See also , the IRA motar attack on heathrow a while back -
unexploded moatar rounds in the airfield boundary , airport remained
open, no civil action or criminal charges followed IIRC .
Happy building & safe flying ,
Bryan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frederic.perissinotto(at)ping.be (perissinotto frederic) |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
>>>Why not use reuse the stretchie bungie cord, or a section of it? To me
>this seems simple, light, cheap (!), and effective no matter if the brake
>pads wear a bit.<<
>
>If you mean, slip it over the lever to pull the brake on, it won't work. You
>need quite a pull to stop the airplane rolling at full power. Power checks,
>starting run up etc. is the time we use the parking brake.
>
>Graham
>
first I apologize for my poor English spoken!
I am actually working on the brake master cylinder installation.I intend to
put an electrical jack to do the job of the lever LG 13.It will work with a
switch on both sticks.In case of failure the lever is still there!Also it will
work as a parking brake , a pressure gauge can be fit on the brake fluid top-up
point to check the jack strenght.
Does anyone have a comment ?
thanks
fred #77
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Hi,
Can I please get an official opinion on the acceptability of filling the
slots in the tailplane cores as a single stage, requiring peelply ontop
before it goes off? This same query would also apply to whether the bond
between the floxed area above the tailplane rib, squeegeed down with cling
wrap before the skin layup, would be acceptable to also peelply and skin
later? I am not keen in doing all the glasswork including this job in one
go. I filled the fin's cores and the tip filling as a single stage, and to
do it well without spreading dry micro all over my cores took me the best
part of the full 1 1/2 hours that the entire layup job is supposed to take.
If someone can clarify the factories direct e-mail address for technical
enquiries I would appreciate it. I keep getting returned mail to the address
I am using.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
| Subject: | ling edge forming etc |
1:I seen somewhere, but forgotten where, the use of 'L' aluminium section
to form neat, straight trailing edges. Could anyone confirm the method? Do
you need to put peel ply on the section?
2:As a beginner I noted several methods of cutting the glass back to the
core after laying up, including letting the epoxy fully cure first. Trying
to avoid dust as far as possible I tried the method in the manual at the
leather stage, but using a wooden mixing spatula under the glass for
support pushed tightly up against the foam. Cutting with a Stanley knife,
as they say in the book, is like cutting cheese, and very easy to avoid
de-lamination etc. Very little sanding is needed to finish the job.
3:Fuel gauges. I too do not like the idea of plastic tubes carrying petrol
around the cockpit. Using two capacitance gauges is a good solution, maybe
a less costly solution would be one gauge and a (1/4?) full level sensor
(RS type?) giving a backup warning.
4:Finally, congratulations to David Watts and contributors on the club
magazine. It's excellant, and above all, positive!!
#333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
This is the question I raised over the Easter weekend before my first layup
and am grateful to G.S for his reply. I was over concerned at not getting
the slots levelled off properly with dry micro and burning my bridges by
continuing directly with the slurry and layup.
In the end I just went for it, I'm not sure getting a little dry micro
around the slots is a problem?? It's slurried over and squeezied away
anyway.
The end result seems to be fine, with no dips where the slots were. But the
inspector hasn't seen it yet!!
The only problem I did have is the curved edge of the leading and tip
edges. The curve isn't quite right. A little too much foam sanded away.
"No problem", says my inspector, "cut a little off and glue in some more
foam. Then chamfer in more glass. It will be good practice!"
I'm thinking about it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Thomason <rdthomas(at)fedex.com> |
Hi folks,
I have a Pulsar XP with the 912 engine. I have a roll of turbolator tape
but can't determine where to apply it under the wing. I applied oil to
the leading edge and went for a flight. Immediately upon landing I
jumped out and examined the underside for the break points in the oil
streaks. The streaks appeared to go straight from the leading edge all
the way to the rear of the wing. This didn't help me figure out where to
put the tape at all since I was told to place it 1 inch in front of the
zig zag in the oil streaks.
Any information will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Rick rthomaso(at)concentric.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Trailer, Material list and measurements of parts |
Hi Europa owners and operators (with trailers):
I am looking for help to assist me finding out the exact measurements
and material dimensions (material thickness and shape of metal
profiles) for the Europa Trailer as it will be too expensive for me
to have one shipped out from UK to Canada.
Please let me know if you can help me
Thanks a lot.
Christoph Both #223, Halifax, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: DIGITAL LEVEL |
Hi, Europa builders!
I have been informed if there is any kind of tool I will definitively
need it should be a DIGITAL LEVEL. At this time I have stage 1
almost completed and stage 2 at 75%.
So, if you have already completed your bird and (hopefully) don't
need your digital level any more, send me a message with your offer
of the magic tool.
Looking forward to hear from you soon.
Thanks,
Christoph Both
#223, Halifax, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Trailer, Material list and |
measurements of parts
DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH wrote:
>I am looking for help to assist me finding out the exact measurements
>and material dimensions (material thickness and shape of metal
>profiles) for the Europa Trailer
[advertisement]
There's an article in the current issue of the Europa Flyer (the Club
newsletter) which gives some info on this very topic! For the benefit of
overseas builders, we now accept credit cards payment for membership
subscriptions ... ask me for more info.
[advertisement]
cheers
Rowland Carson
(Europa Club Membership Secretary)
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mod to Method??? |
>
>Hi,
>Can I please get an official opinion on the acceptability of filling the
>slots in the tailplane cores as a single stage, requiring peelply ontop
>before it goes off? This same query would also apply to whether the bond
>between the floxed area above the tailplane rib, squeegeed down with cling
>wrap before the skin layup, would be acceptable to also peelply and skin
>later? I am not keen in doing all the glasswork including this job in one
>go. I filled the fin's cores and the tip filling as a single stage, and to
>do it well without spreading dry micro all over my cores took me the best
>part of the full 1 1/2 hours that the entire layup job is supposed to take.
>If someone can clarify the factories direct e-mail address for technical
>enquiries I would appreciate it. I keep getting returned mail to the address
>I am using.
>
Blocking the lightening hole slots and allowing the micro to cure is
acceptable provided you mask the surrounding foam to prevent micro getting
onto it.
When you come to do the microing, first mix dry micro and block the slots.
Some will go onto the foam adjacent to the slots, which is o.k.. Then
dilute the remainder to make slurry and cover the remaining foam. This way
you don't need to be too fussy about where the micro ends up. Microing a
tailplane surface should take no more than 10 - 15 minutes.
I would not recommend you treat the outboard rib flox in the same manner
though. Yes, you would still have a mechanical bond but there would be no
chemical bond at the interaface between flox and skin.
The only e-mail address is enquiries@europa-aviation.co.uk. The messages
are separated out to the separate departments once they are here.
Regards
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge forming etc |
>1:I seen somewhere, but forgotten where, the use of 'L' aluminium section
>to form neat, straight trailing edges. Could anyone confirm the method? Do
>you need to put peel ply on the section?
Use ampreg to stick it down with a layer of peelply in between, and clamp it
up while it cures.
>
>2:As a beginner I noted several methods of cutting the glass back to the
>core after laying up, including letting the epoxy fully cure first. Trying
>to avoid dust as far as possible I tried the method in the manual at the
>leather stage, but using a wooden mixing spatula under the glass for
>support pushed tightly up against the foam. Cutting with a Stanley knife,
>as they say in the book, is like cutting cheese, and very easy to avoid
>de-lamination etc. Very little sanding is needed to finish the job.
I prefer to let a 0.5-1 cm excess cure, and then use an exacto razor saw to
cut it close, and permagrit blocks to sand it flush: surprisingly quick and
dust free.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
I don't really understand this left throttle business. Apart from the now
defunct Chipmunks to which some of us were exposed, are/were there any
common civil training aeroplanes which are not side-by side and central
throttle ? So the vast majority should be familiar with right hand on the
throttle and left hand on the control. Indeed one could argue that a yoke is
even more difficult to operate left handed than a stick, as one is pulling
out of line with the axis.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake (and dual throttles) |
>I don't really understand this left throttle business. Apart from the now
>defunct Chipmunks to which some of us were exposed, are/were there any
>common civil training aeroplanes which are not side-by side and central
>throttle ?
......................Tiger Moths
So the vast majority should be familiar with right hand on the
>throttle and left hand on the control. Indeed one could argue that a yoke is
>even more difficult to operate left handed than a stick, as one is pulling
>out of line with the axis.
Yes - but can anyone please tell me how one deals with an aircraft
which
has one central stick but no left hand throttle ? Anyone out there have
any experience with central sticks ? How do you write up your log if you
aren't left handed ?
Martin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Trailer, Material list and measureme |
Thanks, will be in touch soon regarding joining.
regards, Christoph Both #223
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 23:52:22 +0100
From: Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org>
Subject: Re: Re: Europa Trailer, Material list and
measurements of parts
DR. CHRISTOPH BOTH wrote:
>I am looking for help to assist me finding out the exact measurements
>and material dimensions (material thickness and shape of metal
>profiles) for the Europa Trailer
[advertisement]
There's an article in the current issue of the Europa Flyer (the Club
newsletter) which gives some info on this very topic! For the benefit of
overseas builders, we now accept credit cards payment for membership
subscriptions ... ask me for more info.
[advertisement]
cheers
Rowland Carson
(Europa Club Membership Secretary)
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)campus.mci.net> |
Has anyone heard of the MOTAVIA engine at
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/motavia/index.htm
This looks like a terrific engine.
Whats up with the BMW engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from root@localhost
----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
(unrecoverable error)
(unrecoverable error)
----- Transcript of session follows -----
,... Deferred: Connection timed
out with gbr.gbr.mentorg.com.
Message could not be delivered for 1 day
Message will be deleted from queue
----- Original message follows -----
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 5 Apr 1997 15:35:10 +0200
Subject: New Engine
Mail*Link(r) SMTP New Engine
owner-europa using -f
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 1997 07:03:27 -0600
From: Tom Brandon <majortom(at)campus.mci.net>
Subject: New Engine
Has anyone heard of the MOTAVIA engine at
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/motavia/index.htm
This looks like a terrific engine.
Whats up with the BMW engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
Anyone contemplating fitting a gel type battery should perhaps have a
word with Europa first.
In the meantime, anyone who reads this at Sun and Fun and happens to
meet Jerry of Lyndhurst Touchdown Services might ask him how I can get a
replacement battery by tomorrow when his office is closed to about the
20th April. The alternative seems to be to rebuild G-RATZ around a new
battery and postpone first flight from tomorrow until whenever the work
is complete.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
/Anyone contemplating fitting a gel type battery
/should perhaps have a word with Europa first. . .
I've not heard Europa's recommendations about
batteries but be aware of the fact that the "gel"
cell as we used to know and love them is nearly
extinct . . . the new gas recombinant batteries
are often called "gel" cells and nothing could be
further from the truth.
In fact, the orignal gel-cell is the poorest
peforming battery aircraft battery ever.
It did have some desirable traits, they were less
messy than flooded batteries but they could still
leak a little and their cranking performance was
dismal compared to flooded batteries.
Except for a few hangers-on, most companies
have quit building the old gel cell. The newer
gas recombinant technologies are sealed and contain
so little liquid that you can't make 'em leak
if you drill a hole through the side. If built
properly, they crank like a ni-cad and will out
perform a flooded battery by 200-300% for cold
weather cranking. The flooded battery will
out perform a gell cell by another 200% or so
when it comes to cold weather performance.
When offered a battery, don't assume that because
it is "sealed" that it's a gel cell. I've been
doing certifications and STC's for the RG battery
into single engine airplanes here in the US and
have run them in my cars. For an airplane, I
wouldn't have any other kind.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyan <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
The Motavia engine will be described at the forthcoming Europa Club seminar at
York next month.
Its basically aimed at the Rotax 618 rather than the 912.
I can`t wait to find out at the seminar how this engine produces 80hp at such a
ralatively (to its capacity) sedate speed; BMEP would have to be extraordinarily
high for a normally aspirated engine of this size. There`s no substitute for
cubes, as the Americans say.
The BMW programme rolls on. It comprises an excellent engine, an excellent
gearbox and an excellent prop. The challenge is to get all three working in
harmony (or to be precise, harmony without resonance if that`s not an
oxymoron!). The requirement is to produce a reliable conversion which pilots can
trust; there`s more to it than bolting on the gearbox and seeing the propellor
turn. Again, more news at the seminar.
Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
In message <970407172328_72770.552_HHS59-2(at)CompuServe.COM>, "Robert L.
Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> writes
>The newer
> gas recombinant technologies are sealed and contain
> so little liquid that you can't make 'em leak
Thanks for the info on this one Bob - any idea who might make them or
market them in the UK.
Regards,
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
FROM: Rolph Muller, INTERNET:rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk
DATE: 4/7/97 4:58 PM
Re: Re: Batteries
/Thanks for the info on this one Bob - any idea
/who might make them or market them in the UK.
/Regards, -- Rolph Muller
Look for brands like Hawker, Panasonic LCR
series (Lead Cadmium), Power-Sonic PS-12xx
series, YUASA NP series, Sonnenschein (I forget
which series but watch out for these, I think
they may still make BOTH RG and gell batteries.
Be sure you get the RG). Many of these are
Japanese and should have UK distribution.
Have you poked around on UK websites?
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Iain Macleod <iain(at)gabhsann.demon.co.uk> |
> Thanks for the info on this one Bob - any idea who might make them or
> market them in the UK.
>
I'm not sure how large a battery you're looking for but MPS (Maplin)
stock Yuasa NP Gell cells up to 38 Ah. They're on 01702 554000 and they
should be able to dispatch the day you order.
I'm not sure how robust a battery of this type will be in this
application. I was under the impression these batteries were more
suitable for back-up and low current demands rather than regular engine
starting. They are also a bit fussy about being correctly recharged.
--
Cheers,
Iain.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
There was a very silly grin on my face today and I've got the video to
prove it!!
Nick Riddin did the honours and lots of thanks to him. Thanks to
everyone who has helped and there have been lots who have helped one way
and another. Particular thanks to Chris at Europa who more or less got
me in the air after my battery problem - if you have the misfortune to
have a gel type battery and can't charge it, stick it in a bucket of hot
water(no, not all of it - leave the little metal bits in the air) and
try charging it then.
I'm off to watch the video again.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan J Hall <100255.2004(at)compuserve.com> |
It is very easy to have a single left hand throttle that can be used by both
the pilot and passenger (first officer?)
Leave the throttle where Europa intended it and instead make a mirror image of
the instrument panel, then sit in the right hand seat when you fly it! Ivan even
designed it with a stick on this side as well to allow this option!! ( As it's
British it should be RH drive anyway )
Allan J Hall
# 177, G-DAYS (95% done, with standard panel and RH throttle!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throtlle |
In message <970408200607_100255.2004_JHF32-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, Allan J
Hall <100255.2004(at)compuserve.com> writes
>95% done, with standard panel and RH throttle!)
Wondered how far you were - thanks for congrats. I guess you were one of
those that Graham had lined up for Nick. He's going off to train RAF
pilots. Probably one of the benefits(at least to the RAF) of
privatisation.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Paul, MN Weekend Seminar |
Due to heavy snow melt in the rivers, the RV gathering
orginally scheduled for April 19th in St. Paul has been
canceled . . . the airport is under water and will be
closed for at least 8 weeks.
So that not all is lost, Bob Nuckolls will be offering
a weekend seminar on aircraft electrics April 19th,
and 20th at the Country Inn, 6003 Hudson Road,
Woodbury, MN. See our website at aeroelectric.com
for a seminar description. This was originally an
RV-specific gathering but the seminar is open to
builders or maintainers of any type aircraft. E-mail
or call for details (316-685-8617).
BTW . . . seminar attendees have a better than 1:20
chance of taking a Magellan GPS2000 hand-held GPS
receiver home with them! Here's your chance to tap
into over 35 years of experience with aircraft elecrical
system design and fabrication.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | matic flight logging from the undercarriage |
How many times have you said to your co-pilot/passenger, "did you get the
take-off( landing) time ? If you are going for any sort of on-board storage
system, this can readily be provided by a u/c down switch. Whether you
provide a green light is up to you. I have in fact made it a "gate engaged"
switch in view of a recent "event" (not for me to elaborate) . This is very
easily fitted by mounting it on a plate secured to the aft screw holding the
gate plate onto the tunnel. (I will not plug coupling to the ground
proximity sensor after the response at Gloucester, but that's there too.)
No doubt eventually light a/c black boxes at a price will appear to record
most of the data we now have to put on paper in aircraft logbooks (with the
associated errors and omissions). But that is a piecemeal approach. Fly a
p.c. and you can add all these things as soon as you wire up access to the
appropriate sensors ( and of course write the software).
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | oloured Components/Postcuring Revisited |
Gidday,
Has anyone had any components gradually discolour giving a browny tinge
under the glass?? I believe it is normally caused by water uptake, however
my workshop is normally always under 60% RH. Is this a problem, and if so
how do I minimise it?
Post Curing- Is there an "unthought of" disadvantage in keeping an aluminium
straight edge attached to my rudders hinge flange and trailing edge during
the postcure at the recommended temperature? I thought of using wood however
I feel it may be a thermal insulator to the glass it is in contact with, so
I think metal should take up the same ambient temperature as the components
being postcured. Thermal deflection of the metal is a concern, however "L"
shaped angle should minimise this.
Any free advice?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand throtlle |
>>95% done, with standard panel and RH throttle!)
Is that 95% done, with 55% to go?!!!
Lucky ******
Miles (with an apparent 99% to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | rnator b-lead breakers |
/I have a perplexing problem and hope some of you electrical
/type gurus can help. My C-150 Alternator CB (60 amp)
/trips under full load (radio, transponder,taxi and
/landing light, nav and beacon on) when engine rpm
/exceeds 1200 RPM and electric flaps are cycled.
This is a DESIGN problem endemic with ALL Cessnas.
It's a condition that happens too many times . . .
sometimes with unhappy consequences.
A 60-amp alternator, under some conditions, will put
out MORE than 60 amps. It's unusual for an airplane
to DRAW more than 60 amps but consider this scenario.
Master switch left on and you go out to fly on a cold
morning. You put jumper cables on and get the engine
started. Now, the alternator is COLD, battery discharged,
but you need to run lots of things on your way out to
the runway. Under this condition, the alternator
may indeed be putting out up to 70 amps because it's
cold and the airplane loads PLUS battery recharge loads
exceed 60 amps.
Now our happless friend is unaware of the fact that
his alternator b-lead breaker has opened and he
launches into the overcast only to have everything
go dark minutes later when he uses up what little
charge was put back into the battery during preflight.
Nothing is broke . . . everything is working just the
way it was designed to do. Yet a properly annointed
flight system has been designed into thousands of
airplanes with a potentially hazardous flaw. . . .
/CB will not trip when engine is not running, even when flaps
/are cycled and all electrics are on.
Yes, because the alternator is not putting out any power
when the engine is not running.
/I Have checked and cleaned all connections which is
/about the limit of my electrical expertise. Anything
/else is pure speculation on my part. My local
/maintenance shop tested CB to 45 amps and it held
/fine.
I'd hope so . . . it is after all a 60-amp breaker.
/I'm hesitant to spend bucks to replace CB if problem is
/voltage reg or alternator or ?. Bucks are tight and
/SUN-N-FUN calls. Would appreciate any help/suggestions.
First, how old is your battery? Is it fully charged
while all this is going on? Normally, the condition
you are experiencing can occur only if the battery
is ADDING to normal aircraft loads. It's also possible
that your alternator is a bit more robust than the
production average and/or the breaker has drifted down
slightly in its trip setting.
This doesn't represent much of a hazard if you
understand the phenomenon and avoid the situation
that precipitates the event . . . don't turn EVERYTHING
on at once. On the other hand, if this is a new
phenomenon then something has CHANGED. You should
track it down . . . shorted cell in battery? Voltage
regulator set too high? Have you checked the bus
votlage with engine running? Shouldn't be over 14.2 volts
in warm climes. Is the battery fully charged when this
happens (go fly around for an hour with as much stuff
OFF as you can . . . if the airplane is ammeter
equipped, see that battery recharge current has reduced
to a few amps and that the bus voltage is not too high.
You need to deduce the COMBINATION of things that's causing
the breaker to trip. Putting a clamp on ammeter on
the alternator b-lead while duplicating the trip
condition would be useful . . . you can SEE how much the
alternator is putting out when it happens. There's no
substitute for test equipment.
In amateur built airplanes, I recommend at least 70-amp
protection on a 60-amp alternator . . . remember, fuses
and breakers protect wires . . . not equipment. If the
60-amp breaker pops for reasons specific to it's job
in the airplane then the alternator is HURT BAD . . .
shorted diodes most likely. Having a 4AWG b-lead wire
protected with 70 amp fuse is very much in order.
This is another classic example of how little most
FBO staff know about troubleshooting electrical systems.
Protect yourselves guys . . . knowlege is a powerful
tool.
Moral of the Story: Don't jump-start any airplane and
launch into the blue until the battery is well on its
way to being fully charged. Exceptions: Day VFR, you
KNOW about the possiblity of nuisance trip, you REDUCE
loads as much as possible to keep the alternator loads
down until the battery is recharged, and you keep an
eye on the breaker. Unfortunately, while boring holes
in clouds, breakers are not on most pilot's scan lists.
Oh yes, ADD very active and attention getting low voltage
warning system to your airplane . . . I have schematics
and bill of materials for those interested.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Automatic flight logging from the undercarriage |
In message <970409033601_-833424704(at)emout15.mail.aol.com>,
Gramin(at)aol.com writes
>No doubt eventually light a/c black boxes at a price will appear to record
>most of the data we now have to put on paper in aircraft logbooks (with the
>associated errors and omissions).
You may be interested in the latest Skyforce equipment software version
which includes a complete flight logger, everything above 30kts is
recorded including location, direction and height.
It is a simple matter to extract the times but even more fun flying the
routes again on a PC.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Discoloured Components/Postcuring Revisited |
>Post Curing- Is there an "unthought of" disadvantage in keeping an aluminium
>straight edge attached to my rudders hinge flange and trailing edge during
>the postcure at the recommended temperature? I thought of using wood however
>I feel it may be a thermal insulator to the glass it is in contact with, so
>I think metal should take up the same ambient temperature as the components
>being postcured. Thermal deflection of the metal is a concern, however "L"
>shaped angle should minimise this.
The temperature rise should be slow enough that the wood temp = composite
temp, but there is a danger that the wood could warp... however, I would use
"U" channel rather than L section: much more likely to be straight...
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan J Hall <100255.2004(at)compuserve.com> |
>>95% done, with standard panel and RH throttle!)
>>Is that 95% done, with 55% to go?!!!
Hope not, it took over 4000 hours building to get to 95% :-(
Allan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Discoloured Components/Postcuring Revisited |
In a message dated 09/04/97 10:32:09, you write:
<< Is there an "unthought of" disadvantage in keeping an aluminium
straight edge attached to my rudders hinge flange and trailing edge during
>>
Any suitably stiff member will keep it straight but the problem is stopping
it curling inwards. Didn't have problem with the rudder, but in spite of a
massive beam on the fin edge it turned inwards and reduced the closeout
width, with fatal consequences to the rudder entry. Perhaps you are are past
this bit but if not , make up a closeout template in ply to set the width
all the way down. That's what I had to do to restore mine.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Come to think of it, this also gives a painless way of activating an
hourmeter. Misses out your taxying time though, but better than hanging it
on the bus and logging all your engine-off electrics testing as engine hours
. True hours would only come by switching it in from detected rev.
counter output , though counting the pulses themselves is a better guide to
engine wear.
Graham C.
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Rolph Muller wrote;
>Thanks for the info on this one Bob - any idea who might make them or
>market them in the UK.
>
Try RS
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
>Duncan McFadyean wrote:
>
>The BMW programme rolls on. It comprises an excellent engine, an excellent
>gearbox and an excellent prop. The challenge is to get all three working in
>harmony (or to be precise, harmony without resonance if that`s not an
>oxymoron!). The requirement is to produce a reliable conversion which pilots can
>trust; there`s more to it than bolting on the gearbox and seeing the propellor
>turn. Again, more news at the seminar.
>
Having flown this new(ish) BMW in a French Trike six months ago I
can recommend it. The installation had a centrifugal clutch, used
an ordinary Rotax "C" box mounted on a cast bellhousing and had a
fairly basic exhaust system.
It appeared to have as much power as a
912, (yes, I've flown those in trikes too) was remarkably quiet and,
considering the rather unsophisticated engine mount arrangement,
(a trike / boxer twin 4 stroke has its own particular problems,
particularly at idle, as the trike itself weighs less than the
engine....), very very smooth. They claimed about the same weight as
a 912 for the complete installation which was believable but a
rather more interesting price.
Having flown other BMW's in my time, its the first with a decent
power to weight, no ice, and think of the fun to be had tweaking
the injection...
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Automatic flight logging from the undercarriage |
In a message dated 09/04/97 23:07:33, you write:
<< You may be interested in the latest Skyforce equipment software version
which includes a complete flight logger, everything above 30kts is >>
Well...more fun in the doing than the buying, if you like that sort of thing.
Trouble is getting such data accepted officially. When starting to market
PC-Flightlog a few years back we put some considerable effort in getting it
accepted officially, but
it was resisted on the grounds that it would be too easy to change and too
difficult to authenticate. However there is no doubt that electronic
addition and logging gets rid of the errors which humans commit, even if you
still have to transfer it to paper. We could of course transmit it
painlessly to the authoriities via flash sessions on the internet, but as
this data seems only to be needed when "events" take place, I doubt it they
would want such an avalanche.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
In message <187(at)flymicro.win-uk.net>, Richard Meredith-Hardy
writes
>Try RS
Thanks Richard - ended up with a Varta in the end - it was the nearest
physical size to the one I had.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | swint(at)plix.com (Wint, Steve) |
Please send me info on size and cost.
Steve Wint 582 OLD ARDEN HWY
COLVILE WA 99114
THANK YOU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)burton.co.uk |
I have just been told that a Europa made a guest appearance on Top
Gear (UK TV show) last night. In what context did it appear and which
one was it ?
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Stewart <alans(at)kbss.bt.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Top Gear Appearance |
As part of the JD-car survey results, one of the Top-Gear presenters
had a rendevous with some flying despatch rider in the middle of a field.
The pilot was unidentified and impossibly young, but the aircraft was G_PTYE
(John Tye's).
A few shots of the approach and landing, followed by departure.
Lasted all of about 20 seconds.....
alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
/I'm not sure how robust a battery of this type
/will be in this application. I was under the
/impression these batteries were more suitable
/for back-up and low current demands rather than
/regular engine starting. They are also a bit
/fussy about being correctly recharged.
A very large market for sealed lead acids
is battery backup for uninterruptable power
supplies for computers. Of course they're
very popular for a lot of emergency power
situations such as exit lighting, etc. The
little versions are showing up in everything
from camcorders to cellphones. There was some
mythology floating around for some time that
all sealed batteries were "fragile" while in
fact, this was a carryover from people's experiences
with gel cells . . . which are indeed easier to
damage from overcharge than their flooded cousins.
Some general notes on life . . . . Consider
that a lead-acid battery that is cycled off the
top 5% or so of capacity will transfer many
more watt-seconds over it's lifetime than if it's
cycled down to 50% of capacity per cycle. This
is one reason why subtle changes in construction
and chemistry are necessary for a battery are
needed for deep cycle operation in golf carts, etc.
Let's compare two battery scenarios using
identical chemistry. Suppose we need 200 amps
for 5 seconds to crank up the engine. This
works out to 12,000 watt-seconds of energy
pulled from the chemistry. Consider that a
10 a.h. battery will deliver about 400,000
watt-seconds while a 24 a.h. battery will pump
out 950,000 watt-seconds. Cranking the same
engine from the two batteries pulls them down
3 percent and 1.2 percent respectively.
Now, in spite of the fact that BOTH batteries
are initially capable of doing the same job
when new, the smaller battery is being cycled
2.5 times deeper than the big guy. So, in spite
of the fact that both are properly maintained
AFTER the engine starts, the smaller battery
can be EXPECTED to degrade faster from use.
With respect to general robustness, the RG
batteries I certified onto single engine
airplanes had NO practical current limit for
recharge . . . meaning that you could put them
on a constant voltage bus with a pair of
400 amp starter generators and not fear for
their health. I also demonstrated the ability
of two, 22-pound, 24 a.h. batteries to start
a Beech C-90 (PT6 engines). Now, in this
application, they probably wouldn't last as
long as the larger battery they replaced
because of the cycle depth (it takes
about 60,000 watt-seconds to start a C-90)
but then, the RG batteries were 1/20th the price
of the ni-cads they replaced. We're still wondering
if we should do some cost of ownership studies to
see if they're a practical subsititute
When someone expresses some dis-satsifaction in the
way an RG battery performs, I am primed to ask if
they replaced with the SAME or SMALLER capacity,
whether the battery was subject to total depletion
followed by storage (battery master left on for
two weeks . . . REALLY hard on a battery) and is the
bus voltage where it belongs (13.8 to 14.2 tops).
Initially, Concord asked that their RG products be
maintained at 14.6 volts . . . about 0.4 volts higher
than "normal". At OSH last year, Skip Koss showed me
test data which indicated that the RG battery charged
at the nominal 13.8 volts contained no less engergy
than one charged at 14.6 . . . .
By-in-large, I find no reason to consider the RG
batteries as more "fussy" or "fragile" than any other
technology of lead-acid battery. If one wishes to
take advantage of their enhanced cranking capabilities
and put in a LIGHTER battery of less capacity, then
reduced service life should be EXPECTED . . . but
considering that it's probably lower in cost too, the
cost-of-ownership for keeping the battery servicable is
probably close to a wash. The most useful thing you can
do to extend battery life is keep the engine tuned up
and deduce the technique for reduced cranking TIME.
Electronic ignition is a BIG plus . . . these
engines start in a few blades if there's fuel . . . so
look at primer systems and best technique for use. How
many people consider fuel sytems operations when trying
to optimize battery life? (da leg bone's connected to the
thigh bone . . . da thigh bone's connected to the . . .
well you all know how it goes).
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wwerner(at)penguin.mlb.semi.harris.com (William S. Werner) |
Gang,
Since I just joined the list and was encouraged to intoduce myself:
My name is Bill Werner, I am an Electrial Engineer at Harris Semiconductor
in Melbourne Florida USA. I just attended the Sun-n-Fun gathering in
Lakeland where I had a chance to meet Ivan and to sit in the Europa. My
wife and I like the plane, esp the ability to trailer it and keep in the
garage. Now I need to finish getting my licience and save up my money
for the kit.......
I would like to hear from anyone who has installed or planning to
install a Continental or Lycoming engine in the Europa.
thanks and happy flying
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <101327.626(at)compuserve.com> |
I just switched over to Top Gear in time to hear him mention something about
----- "Now we have something from America" ---- just as the Europa was
landing. It gave the impression that the Europa was an American aircraft -----
or had I missed something? If not I hope Ivan puts him right.
The Europa also appeared in Blue Peter at 5 o/c tonight on BBC 1. This time it
was G - OPJK
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
Europa Seats
One aspect of the Europa which is a bit lacking in detail is how seats can be
made.
Fortunately, the Europa FTP site has one idea which uses 5 mm ply sheets which
form the seat bottom (supported by a ply cross member glassed in place) and
slotted to allow the seat back to pivot forward in order to get to the pins and
pitot disconnect (and lights disconnect if fitted).
This was a pretty neat solution I thought although once cut, all the ply pieces
weighed in at 7 lb (although I had figured on some lightening holes in the seat
back).
With apologies to Graham Clarke who posted the design, I have just gotten back
from Sun 'n Fun at Lakeland where I had a chance to see how Europa Aviation did
it themselves - which I think is probably a better way of doing it.
They basically filled the floor area between the aileron/elevator pushrod tunnel
with blue foam (the final fill depth can be adjusted for optimum seating
position) which is then carpeted along with the rest of the floor and module
area. The seat comprises of a sculptured (for good back and lumbar support) foam
seat cushion and a seat back - again suitable sculptured) which I believe were
then Velcroed to the cockpit module.
One of the Europa's (the trike) had additional material which then buttoned down
onto the 'headrest' part of the module.
This concept weighs hardly anything at all.
As you can imagine, a good time was had by all at Sun and Fun particularly when
we all met up for the 'Builders Banquet' on the Monday night. Got to meet a lot
of you who read this Forum and got we swapped some good ideas and experiences.
Hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did.
Glad to hear Blue Peter is still going strong - although quite how you make a
Europa out of a couple of empty washing-up bottles, the inside of a toilet roll
and sticky-backed plastic, I cannot imagine!
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
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From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 12 Apr 1997 00:37:16 +0200
Subject: Top Gear Appea
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Top Gear Appearance
owner-europa using -f
Date: 11 Apr 97 18:03:06 EDT
From: Edward Gladstone <101327.626(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Top Gear Appearance
I just switched over to Top Gear in time to hear him mention something about
----- "Now we have something from America" ---- just as the Europa was
landing. It gave the impression that the Europa was an American aircraft
-----
or had I missed something? If not I hope Ivan puts him right.
The Europa also appeared in Blue Peter at 5 o/c tonight on BBC 1. This time
it
was G - OPJK
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
(unrecoverable error)
(unrecoverable error)
----- Transcript of session follows -----
,... Deferred: Connection timed
out with gbr.gbr.mentorg.com.
Message could not be delivered for 1 day
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----- Original message follows -----
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 12 Apr 1997 03:24:33 +0200
Subject: Europa Seats
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Europa Seats
owner-europa using -f
Date: 11 Apr 97 20:56:32 EDT
From: "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Europa Seats
Europa Seats
One aspect of the Europa which is a bit lacking in detail is how seats can be
made.
Fortunately, the Europa FTP site has one idea which uses 5 mm ply sheets
which
form the seat bottom (supported by a ply cross member glassed in place) and
slotted to allow the seat back to pivot forward in order to get to the pins
and
pitot disconnect (and lights disconnect if fitted).
This was a pretty neat solution I thought although once cut, all the ply
pieces
weighed in at 7 lb (although I had figured on some lightening holes in the
seat
back).
With apologies to Graham Clarke who posted the design, I have just gotten
back
from Sun 'n Fun at Lakeland where I had a chance to see how Europa Aviation
did
it themselves - which I think is probably a better way of doing it.
They basically filled the floor area between the aileron/elevator pushrod
tunnel
with blue foam (the final fill depth can be adjusted for optimum seating
position) which is then carpeted along with the rest of the floor and module
area. The seat comprises of a sculptured (for good back and lumbar support)
foam
seat cushion and a seat back - again suitable sculptured) which I believe
were
then Velcroed to the cockpit module.
One of the Europa's (the trike) had additional material which then buttoned
down
onto the 'headrest' part of the module.
This concept weighs hardly anything at all.
As you can imagine, a good time was had by all at Sun and Fun particularly
when
we all met up for the 'Builders Banquet' on the Monday night. Got to meet a
lot
of you who read this Forum and got we swapped some good ideas and
experiences.
Hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did.
Glad to hear Blue Peter is still going strong - although quite how you make a
Europa out of a couple of empty washing-up bottles, the inside of a toilet
roll
and sticky-backed plastic, I cannot imagine!
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>
> I would like to hear from anyone who has installed or planning to
>install a Continental or Lycoming engine in the Europa.
>
Not possible without ruining the payload, and doing naughty things to the
CG... There are plenty of better engines around these days -cheaper,
lighter, more fuel efficient, quieter... If you want a real hotrod, by the
time you're ready to buy an engine, the Jabiru 6 (120 bhp, and lighter than
a Rotax 912/914) should be available.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
Martin, you must be using very thick/dense ply (or light scales ! ) Here are
my seat component weights.
Base ply 308 g (6mm)
Back ply 391 g
-----
691 g (1.5 lb) 3 lb the pair
2" foam back 459
" seat 351
------
810 (1.8 lb) 3.6 lb the pair
Covers 150 g (0.33 lb) 0.7lb the pair
Total 2 seats ............................... 7.3lb
(except for the bridge strips below, glassed in beyond weighing now)
I originally intended to back the lightweight foam with a denser variety but
headroom for my giraffe type frame precluded this. Anyway it weighed in
nearly twice as heavy as the foam above so would have added another 6 lb. So
it's better to get the backup (bottoming ?) spring from a thin ply than a
layer of denser foam.
Foam idea sounds good though as long as it doesn't crumble with time. But
you lose a place to store emergency rations, valuables etc., (and a place to
lose nuts/bolts and spanners (:-))).
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph J. Like" <joelike(at)sprintmail.com> |
This is the first I've heard about the Jabiru 6 engine. Is there
anywhere I can surf to gather more info about that engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philr(at)cix.compulink.co.uk (Phil Rowlands) |
You could try
http://www.jabiru.co.uk/menupage.htm
I don't remember anything about a six cyl. but it's been a while since I
looked - might be somewhere good to start though.
-- Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
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From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 13 Apr 1997 01:23:04 +0200
Subject: Returned mail:
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Returned mail: Cannot send
message for 1...
owner-europa using -f
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 00:58:19 +0200
From: MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
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----- Original message follows -----
(8.6.8.1/CF5.26R)
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 12 Apr 1997 00:37:16 +0200
Subject: Top Gear Appea
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Top Gear Appearance
owner-europa using -f
Date: 11 Apr 97 18:03:06 EDT
From: Edward Gladstone <101327.626(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Top Gear Appearance
I just switched over to Top Gear in time to hear him mention something about
----- "Now we have something from America" ---- just as the Europa was
landing. It gave the impression that the Europa was an American aircraft
-----
or had I missed something? If not I hope Ivan puts him right.
The Europa also appeared in Blue Peter at 5 o/c tonight on BBC 1. This time
it
was G - OPJK
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Seats |
>
> Glad to hear Blue Peter is still going strong - although quite how you make a
> Europa out of a couple of empty washing-up bottles, the inside of a toilet roll
> and sticky-backed plastic, I cannot imagine!
"and here is one that we made earlier......" :-)
Tony
Home from Sun 'n Fun, jetlagged, broke, sun tanned and very happy.
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 04/14/97
Time: 12:38:56 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Networkers Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz |
As no one seems to have posted this yet....
Ivan flying ELSA (or whatever its N number is now) won the open class
under 1250 cc race at Sun n Fun.
He was the first off the mark followed 20 seconds later by a 914 equipped Katana.
On the crosswind leg out of Lakeland you could see the gap between the Europa
and the Katana growing visibly - a very impressive sight.
Ivan did the 65 mile course in 23 minutes 47 seconds at a TAS of 180 MPH.
Just to touch things off at the end, having done his high speed finish pass before
landing, he
complied with the request to land long and flew the whole length of Lakeland runway
at 20 feet
before landing on the stripes at the far end.
There were a lot of Europa builders walking around Sun N Fun with big grins on
their face all
day after that.
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 04/14/97
Time: 12:41:34 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Networkers Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reid <reid(at)eau.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa@sun 'n fun |
Tony...
A friend of mine who is building a Europa here in town has commented on
that very feat. He's grinning, as you noted. He mentioned meeting a
fellow from Austrailia, and I wonder if it was you. Were there any
other compatriats with you? Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
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----- Original message follows -----
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 13 Apr 1997 04:24:49 +0200
Subject: Returned mail:
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Returned mail: Cannot send
message for 1...
owner-europa using -f
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 03:58:19 +0200
From: MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
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----- Original message follows -----
(8.6.8.1/CF5.26R)
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 12 Apr 1997 03:24:33 +0200
Subject: Europa Seats
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Europa Seats
owner-europa using -f
Date: 11 Apr 97 20:56:32 EDT
From: "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Europa Seats
Europa Seats
One aspect of the Europa which is a bit lacking in detail is how seats can be
made.
Fortunately, the Europa FTP site has one idea which uses 5 mm ply sheets
which
form the seat bottom (supported by a ply cross member glassed in place) and
slotted to allow the seat back to pivot forward in order to get to the pins
and
pitot disconnect (and lights disconnect if fitted).
This was a pretty neat solution I thought although once cut, all the ply
pieces
weighed in at 7 lb (although I had figured on some lightening holes in the
seat
back).
With apologies to Graham Clarke who posted the design, I have just gotten
back
from Sun 'n Fun at Lakeland where I had a chance to see how Europa Aviation
did
it themselves - which I think is probably a better way of doing it.
They basically filled the floor area between the aileron/elevator pushrod
tunnel
with blue foam (the final fill depth can be adjusted for optimum seating
position) which is then carpeted along with the rest of the floor and module
area. The seat comprises of a sculptured (for good back and lumbar support)
foam
seat cushion and a seat back - again suitable sculptured) which I believe
were
then Velcroed to the cockpit module.
One of the Europa's (the trike) had additional material which then buttoned
down
onto the 'headrest' part of the module.
This concept weighs hardly anything at all.
As you can imagine, a good time was had by all at Sun and Fun particularly
when
we all met up for the 'Builders Banquet' on the Monday night. Got to meet a
lot
of you who read this Forum and got we swapped some good ideas and
experiences.
Hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did.
Glad to hear Blue Peter is still going strong - although quite how you make a
Europa out of a couple of empty washing-up bottles, the inside of a toilet
roll
and sticky-backed plastic, I cannot imagine!
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa@sun 'n fun |
Fchrissakes don't call Tony an Aussie--these Kiwis are very sensitive
about that!
I can recall riding in the cockpit of an ANZ flight in an F-27 on my way
from Auckland to Wellington, years ago, when a passing QANTAS flight
inquired, in a condescending way, whether we had managed to get any
paying passengers aboard:
QANTAS: "Did you lot get anyone to ride with you today?"
ANZ: "The Fokker's chocker, ocker."
QANTAS: (silence)
Tony--sorry I didn't have a chance to get to SnF and meet you--hope
everything went well.
brgds, psl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MAILER-DAEMON(at)ebv.MENTORG.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem) |
| Subject: | rned mail: Cannot send message for 1 day |
from eurogw1.ebv.mentorg.com [137.202.64.101]
----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
(unrecoverable error)
(unrecoverable error)
----- Transcript of session follows -----
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out with gbr.gbr.mentorg.com.
Message could not be delivered for 1 day
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----- Original message follows -----
From: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Date: 13 Apr 1997 08:11:54 +0200
Subject: Re: New Member
Mail*Link(r) SMTP RE>New Member
owner-europa using -f
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 06:56:04 +0100 (BST)
From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: New Member
>
> I would like to hear from anyone who has installed or planning to
>install a Continental or Lycoming engine in the Europa.
>
Not possible without ruining the payload, and doing naughty things to the
CG... There are plenty of better engines around these days -cheaper,
lighter, more fuel efficient, quieter... If you want a real hotrod, by the
time you're ready to buy an engine, the Jabiru 6 (120 bhp, and lighter than
a Rotax 912/914) should be available.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, perissinotto frederic wrote:
> I am actually working on the brake master cylinder installation.I intend
to > put an electrical jack to do the job of the lever LG 13.
> Does
anyone have a comment ? > > thanks
> > fred #77 > > > > > > >
Hi Fred ,
well IMHO , 1.warning light 2. A Circit Breaker in plain view if you go
ahead with this - personally I would be wary about confusing it with the
PTT button :0
Maybe better to have a big red switch { 80's IBM reference ....} next to
the brake handle ....
Happy building & safe piloting ,
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
The "book" figure for the pilot/passenger lever arm is 55" from datum. This
is some 7" forward from the bottom of the seatback. No doubt this has been
calculated from an average statistic for the human frame in the slightly
reclining position ,but it is obvious that the weight of the legs acts much
further forward from the nominal c.of g than the torso. So your personal
c.of g. arm will depend on how heavy your legs are relative the body (not
incidentally on their length, as everybody has to fold them into the distance
remaining to the rudder pedals). You can obtain this figure in a number of
ways e.g. Archimedes principle next time you are in the bath, but if you
can't wait, there two more direct methods , a) sit on a plank, with legs in
the necessary position and find the balance point on a (low) fence, or b)
the serious method --when the aircraft is weighed, do it also with yourself
in the cockpit. These will produce the accurate figures you need to use,
allowing for your personal statistics. I await with interest how your
figures compare with 55", particularly from women pilots.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | in motion warning |
/So say your coming in to land and give a little up trim
/as you slow... You lift your finger off of the trim switch
/but you keep hearing the tone.... You know you have
/trouble instantly.... Pull the trim C/B and the emergency
/is over....
I had real heartburn over most of the warning and/or
emergency proceedures wrapped around trim systems.
It seems that the bigger the airplane, the worse it
gets. But I really object to the idea that a pilot
is expected to take his eyes from the runway ahead,
panel in front and start searching for a breaker to
pull . . . see guys, that's why I HIDE 'EM! If you
don't put them in the cockpit, then you have to do a
BETTER job of handling the situation.
/Maybe we could get Bob N. to design us an nice system that
/would provide a tone that would not make us crazy and
/help warn us of possible uncommanded trim motion....
My favorite trim control system for little airplanes
replaces the single, two-pole, double-throw, spring-
loaded, center-off switch with two single pole mechanisms.
In some of the King-Air size airplanes, the pilot's
thumb has to actuate two, side-by-side switches
simultaneously. You have to jam or break TWO switches
to get uncommanded motion. It's also very easy to
check in pre-flight. An alternative, is to add a second,
push button in series with trim power. You have to squeeze
the button to apply power and operate the trim switch
simultaneously to get motion. With either of these two
methods, the reactiion to undesired trim response
requires nothing more than to reverse the action in
your fingers that originally precipitated the fault.
You don't have to look anywhere or do anything except
RELAX.
Some of my designs where autopilots are part of the
equipment, I include a master disconnect system for
ALL electically driven flight surfaces. A latching
relay in series with dc power to all electric flight
controls is wired in series with a normally-
closed, wheel master disconnect button. In this case, any
uncommanded operation of flight surfaces is reacted
to in the most natural of responses . . . grab the
wheel. This is where the pilot works to (1) override
the uncommanded motion of flight controls and (2)
disconnects all potential offending devices . . .
again without so much as a glance from his most important
duty of being a pilot.
This same system has another feature. If electrical system
power goes down for any reason, the relay drops out and
makes sure that all electrically driven flght surfaces
remain disabled when power returns. Many autopilots have this
feature built in . . . . no sense presenting multiple
surprises to the pilot when power comes back on.
It doesn't have to be complicated.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | l jacks and one use for a reaction plate. |
Maybe someone has thought of this before, but one way of lifting the
aircraft to change a tyre etc., is to lift on the arch on the swinging
arm. This is where the spare reaction plate ( if you've got one after
doing the full damper mod) comes in. A third bolt hole suitably placed
and three short bolts or pins welded into the plate can form an arc to
fit the top of the swinging arm - bit of spare fuel hose on each pin and
you've got a lifting plate. All that is needed now is a threaded rod
through the eyes of the plate with nuts either side and we're nearly
there. Weld the ends of the rod to two scissor jacks (not just tacked on
- make a solid housing for each) - there isn't room really to put them
in line and drive them with one thread - so they need to be parallel,
one either side of the wheel. Angle the plate so that it's face fits
aginst the face of the swinging arm ( it will be necessary to grind a
little of the bottom of the plate away to clear the tyre) and tighten up
the nuts so that the plate doesn't move when you pull the lot away. Then
weld the eyes to the rod/nuts so that the angle of the plate is fixed
permanently - and there you go. Now I just need a lightweight
collapsible version!
Hope you understand all that and if anyone can think of a use for my
other reaction plate, please let me know.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Europa@sun 'n fun |
Fchrissakes don't call Tony an Aussie--these Kiwis are very sensitive
about that!
Well what do you expect, geographically New Zealand and Australia are the same
distance apart as England and Albania!
Some would say the cultural difference is about the same :)
(Sorry Mr Renshaw - no personal insult intended)
Tony
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)burton.co.uk |
Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
to change a light bulb?
A: 1,331:
1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail
list that the light bulb has been changed
14 to share similar experiences of changing light
bulbs and how the light bulb could have been
changed differently.
7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.
27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about
changing light bulbs.
53 to flame the spell checkers
156 to write to the list administrator complaining about
the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness
to this mail list.
41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.
109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and
to please take this email exchange to alt.lite.bulb
203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar,
alt.spelling and alt.punctuation about changing
light bulbs be stopped.
111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we
are all use light bulbs and therefore the posts
**are** relevant to this mail list.
306 to debate which method of changing light
bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs,
what brand of light bulbs work best for this
technique, and what brands are faulty.
27 to post URLs where one can see examples of
different light bulbs
14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and
to post corrected URLs.
3 to post about links they found from the URLs that
are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs
relevant to this list.
33 to concatenate all posts to date, then quote
them including all headers and footers, and then
add "Me Too."
12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing
because they cannot handle the light bulb
controversey.
19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."
4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.
1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup.
47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion
was meant for, leave it here.
143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.
(Well I thought it was funny !!)
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
Peter.Thomas(at)burton.co.uk wrote:
>
>
> Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
> to change a light bulb?
>
> A: 1,331:
>
> (Well I thought it was funny !!)
>
> Pete
Me too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Any me threes out there ?
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <jfc(at)oasis.icl.co.uk> |
I have read that you have a leaflet or list of 'goodies' for the Europa and
I wonder if you might send me a copy of it.
John Cliff
Crix, Forest Road
Binfield
Bracknell
Berks.
RG42 4DU
(I am a Europa builder.)
[I am coming in via email because I couldn't get the web site in your ad in
Popular Flying to work for me.)
Thanks.
John Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | PA AT KIRKBYMOORSIDE IS OFF LINE |
Chris asked me to post a message to the effect that they will be off-
line for a couple of days at Kirkbymoorside. They will reply to all
outstanding mail as soon as the problem they are having is sorted.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trim in motion warning |
Any of you guys look in the RANS catalog of late? They make a nifty
little trim wheel with Bowden cable setup which is used in various of
their ultralights and lightplanes.
I haven't gotten that far yet, but from all I can see it looks like it
could more than handle the loads in the Europa system, range of motion
is sufficient, it's nonelectric, no reason to have to access a servo
buried in the tail for future service, etc. I certainly plan to go that
way on my airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <jfc(at)oasis.icl.co.uk> |
| Subject: | pa List mail gone awry |
John Cliff wrote :-
> I have read that you have a leaflet or list of 'goodies' for the Europa
and
> I wonder if you might send me a copy of it.
> ...
Sorry about that, folks.
I sent what was supposed to be an email to Aero Developments, making up an
address
europa(at)aerodev.com by analogy with the glastar(at)aerodev.com which they
published in their last Popular Flying advert. I expected a non-delivery
report at worst if that is a dud address. But back it came from our
well-loved list server!
One might surmise that AD's site is also hosted by Avnet.
Damned computers ......
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
As I have just upgraded to the latest TrackerII, I have a little-used
Skyforce Locator II moving map for sale. I'm asking =A3190 - price new is
around =A3288. I also have a 3ft vernier throttle cable for sale, similarly
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Europa@sun 'n fun |
>>Fchrissakes don't call Tony an Aussie--these Kiwis are very sensitive
>about that!
>>Well what do you expect, geographically New Zealand and Australia are the
same distance apart as England and Albania!
>>Some would say the cultural difference is about the same :)
>>(Sorry Mr Renshaw - no personal insult intended)
>Yes, I am still out hear listening! A discussion better to avoid, I thought
:-))
>Tony R
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | ight Edges on Fin Postcure |
>In a message dated 09/04/97 10:32:09, you write:
>><< Is there an "unthought of" disadvantage in keeping an aluminium
> straight edge attached to my rudders hinge flange and trailing edge during
>postcure?
>>Any suitably stiff member will keep it straight but the problem is stopping
>it curling inwards. Didn't have problem with the rudder, but in spite of a
>massive beam on the fin edge it turned inwards and reduced the closeout
>width, with fatal consequences to the rudder entry. Perhaps you are are past
>this bit but if not , make up a closeout template in ply to set the width
>all the way down. That's what I had to do to restore mine.
>>Graham C.
Gidday Graham,
Do you mean to install a ply closeout template just inside the trailing edge
of the fin, where the foam closeout block is attached? If so I imagine you
simply dug out enough foam to insert it. Am I on the right track? By the
way, the massive beam you speak of, did you attach it with double sided
tape, and did it stand up to the postcure temperatue OK?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No236
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | p Lamps causing Discolouration |
Duncan,
Yes, I didn't hear from anyone else, so I asked a local builder who is not
on the Internet. He said that his components discoloured, and that it is
normal. Whilst it may be normal if exposed to UV from strip lamps as you
summise, it may not appear if covered whilst storing. It is corroborating
evidence that the leading edge of my fin is where I noticed the slight
discolouration first, and it is the only part of the fin that protrudes out
from my shelf. Because of what you are hinting at that may be the cause, I
am going to cover my components. Thanks for the tip, and I will fax off to
SP Systems and see what they have to say. I'll keep in touch.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>I didn`t see anyone elses reply to your posting on this subject but would be
>keen to learn of anything useful sent directly to you,
>
>I have witnessed the same discolouration you describe and am concerned that it
>may be related to UV "damage"; sunlight doesn`t get to my layups but UV from
>strip lights does. Probably not much, but over a long period (2 years now) it
>might be significant.
>
>Rgds. Duncan McFadyean
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Another method, which allows the gear to be exercised is:-
Put a strong tube around 2 " diameter (scaffolding pole) through the wing
holes, spreading the load on the top of the apertures with wood blocks. Lift
the tail about 18" (easy) with someone maintaining lateral balance, then
support the tube as high as it will go at each end on stands. Then you can
depress the tail (again easily) and the front will rise clear of the ground.
Tie down the tail, or better, support the engine under the front bulkhead.
It even works while on the trailer, but you have to pull the a/c forward a
bit to get the tail wheel out of the clamp, after lowering the front wheel
ramp to the horizontal for the tyre. If you have reinforced your trailer
wing supports, they can provide lateral stability and it can all be done
single-handed. With acknowledgment to Ted Gladstone who produced the
hardware from his Aladdins cave..
Suggest the surplus reaction plates be bolted into the planet's surface for
tie downs ?
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim in motion warning |
I would agree..... the standard rocker switch has a proven reliability
problem, regularly sticking on mine. Someone knew something when they added
the trim isolate switch
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
Figure 6 in chapter 17 which shows the installation of the rudder cable
pulley is somewhat optimistic about the size of the hard point actually
installed. If one scales the drawing up based on the size of the pulley one
would expect the forward end of the hard point to be 8.4cm from the rear
vertical face; the measured value on my kit is 7.4cm.
In marking out the positions for the pulley and seat belt holes per the
drawing I found that the seat belt bolt would be under the pulley rather than
clear of the pulley as shown in the drawing.
Since spacers will be added under the pulley, it is not clear whether the
pulley will interfere with the end of the bolt if it is drilled per
instructions. Some guidance here would be appreciated.
Regards,
John Moran, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: How many.????. |
>>
>Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
> to change a light bulb?
>
>A: 1,331:
There is only 1330 mentioned. :-)
>
>
>
> (Well I thought it was funny !!)
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulley Installation |
Reply to John Moran:
You are right, there is a conflict in that the seat belt bolt is behind the
pulley, which is a niusance. IMHO it might be better if the plate was larger,
then the spacers wouldn't be needed and the rudder cable would be closer to the
side of the console. Easier then to bury them in nylon tube bonded to the
structure.
Thoughts Andy and Roger?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strip Lamps causing Discolouration |
>> I will fax off to SP Systems and see what they have to say. I'll keep in
touch.<<
IS your resin SP Systems or Reapox? The latter is very prone to staining.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight Edges on Fin Postcure |
Tony, you might find the following helpful. This is the instructions I give for
the sternpost, (finspar) installation. regards, t'other Graham
Sternpost Preformed to make the job easiier. Just did one in a day.
The part consists of two plies of BID reinforced on the flanges with the two UNI
layups specified in the plans. The flanges are peel plied on both sides. Remove
all peel ply just before bonding the part in place, not forgetting the peel ply
applied to the fin, your first layup. Delaying removal helps to prevent
contamination and ensure a good bond. It is still advisable to scuff sand
lightly, because of the slight risk that the peel ply itself could leave some
contamination on the surface. This advice is based on research done by John
Tempest at Cranfield University.
Fitting of the fin, fin spar,( or sternpost ) is quite an involved process,
requiring location of several loosely defined points and lines in space. The
rudder needs to be trial fitted before making the lay-ups which form the
sternpost; this entails Clecoing the rudder hinge to a thin, floppy two ply UNI
flange. This premoulded sternpost will greatly aid the process by allowing the
fin and rudder to be accurately set in place, adjusted and even connected up to
its push rod before finally completing all the lay-ups.
Start by reading the Europa manual so that you are completely familiar with the
whole procedure. Do not trim anything off the trailing edge of the fuselage.
There is no spare material on the right hand side.
After removing the surplus blue foam from the fin trailing edge close out (leave
the peel ply on until the spar is floxed in) carefully relieve the foam as
necessary to allow the sternpost to sit snugly in place. This is to allow space
for the leading edge of the rudder at full left deflection. The top end of the
sternpost should be trimmed to match the profile of your fin, which will be
slightly different to everyone elses. Take off only enough to allow the tapered
sternpost to move upwards until it just fills the space without spreading the
trailing edge of the fin. Drill for four 3/32" Clecos (or better, Skin Pins) and
assemble.
The lower part of the spar replaces the original piece of plywood and strictly
speaking since it is a shear web should be flat. Carve a piece of scrap blue
foam to fit the forward face of the spar, from the bottom of the fin to the
lower end then micro it in place. Level it off so that it becomes a wedge and
cover with two plies of BID, overlapping 15mm onto the face of the spar and just
covering the foam where it will lay against the side of the fuselage moulding.
Peel ply this part of the lay up and allow to cure.
This assembly can now be offered up to the fuselage, trimming the bottom of the
sternpost as required. It would be wise to start with a 1/4" packing under the
fin until sure that this can be dispensed with. The aim is to achieve a smooth
line on the leading edge (and to match up the rudder to the fin/fuselage
combination.) It may be noticed that some extra filling will be needed on the
sides of the leading edge just below the joint with the fin. This arises because
the original fin had less sweep back than the present rather racy looking
device. At this stage the rudder needs to be offered up to make sure it will
enter the trailing edge. It will almost certainly be necessary to sand off part
of the top at the leading edge, and probable some at the bottom. The rudder
should line up with the top of the fin and just fit into the fuselage at the
bottom.
Select two good straight pieces of aluminium extrusion, 1 by 2" angle would be
ideal, or channel section. Wood strip might do but isn't always stiff enough.
Then, clipping these to the trailing edge get everything adjusted and when
satisfied Cleco the fin to the fuselage.
The rudder can now be fitted, as described in the Europa manual, trimming back
the RH flange of the sternpost to allow the hinge to fit snugly. This is the
time to see if anything needs to be trimmed off the RH fuselage flange. Bond the
two straight edges to the trailing edge flange with Bondo using sufficient
spring clips to pull any distortion out of the flanges and allowing enough space
aft of the straight edge to fix the rudder in place with a Cleco in each hinge
and two in the bottom one. Now make sure there is enough clearance to allow at
least 32 deg deflection to the left before the rudder leading edge touches the
sternpost. The LH flange will need to be trimmed off to allow this. Don't take
off too much or there will be a gap when the rudder is in line.
Bond the fin to the fuselage as described in the Europa manual. The inside
surface of the fuselage will need to be smoothed where the sternpost is going.
Grind off any lumps, but NOT the thick areas of the fuselage joint overlap, some
foam may need to be removed. Then replace any of the inner skin that has been
removed with one ply of BID, overlapping 30mm forward of the corner of the
sternpost. Peel ply and let cure.
The sternpost can now be bonded in. Mix up Redux with just enough flox to
prevent sagging under its own weight, spread the Redux over the bond area,
thick in the centre of the flange, thinner towards the edges. Remove the peel
ply from the spar and lightly scuff sand the surface.b Finally bond in the spar,
using spring clips every few inches as necessary to achieve a thin bond line.
Check before cure that all air has been pushed out of the joint line, bubbles
will show up against the dark blue green Redux. After cure complete the
sternpost by removing the rest of the peel ply, scuffing the inside surface and
adding the hinge reinforcement lay-ups. Let cure, preferably leaving the two
straight edges in place for at least a couple of days.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulley Installation |
>Reply to John Moran:
>You are right, there is a conflict in that the seat belt bolt is behind the
>pulley, which is a niusance. IMHO it might be better if the plate was larger,
>then the spacers wouldn't be needed and the rudder cable would be closer to the
>side of the console. Easier then to bury them in nylon tube bonded to the
>structure.
I plan to avoid the rudder cable conflict problem(s) by routing them in
teflon lined bowden cable (using motorcycle rear brake cable stock) as far
aft as the rear cabin bulkhead.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | it REALLY work ????? |
Re: GPS article
/I just read your article on GPS's. I've been
/told by some pilots that the "boater" GPS's are
/only accurate for slower moving vehicles.
Only by pilots that have not taken the time
to find out for themselves. The "slow" receivers
are just as accurate as the fast ones, they're
simply limited in software from displaying any
speeds above a certain value to discourage pilots
from taking advantage of lower cost receveivers
and forcing them to buy the more expensive models.
/In fact, the speed 100 knots was mentioned by more
/than one pilot as the maximum speed at which the
/boater GPS's would function properly.
NOT TRUE witht the GPS2000 which tracks and displays
speeds through 500 kts. I got a letter from a corporate
pilot a few weeks ago who told me he never flys his
boss anywhere in their Kingair without the GPS2000
laying up on the glare shield looking at satilites
out the window . . . he said it was the most
accurate piece of navigation equipment in the cockpit!
/As I am inclined to spend my hard earned money on
/more important things (such as flying), the $600 -
/$800 for a GPS has been 'out of the question' for me.
/However, $200 sounds very reasonable for the features
/you address in your article.
Now, Wal-Mart stores stock them at $150 as the regular
price and they were on sale here locally a few weeks
ago for $138.
/It is because of this I write to you to ask if your research
/uncovered any speed limitations for the GPS2000? And
/also: In what aircraft have you tested it?
I've personally flown it in a few high wing Cessnas. I've
loaned my own receiver out to an RV-6 pilot and a Bonanza
pilot. Both reported good utility. NOW, remember that
this little guy has to see sky . . . it can't mount on your
control yoke and pretend like it's a big feller. In the
Cessnas I've flown, I stuck a little patch of velcro on
the cowl deck and put a mating piece on the bottom of
my receiver. In this case, the receiver can set up where
I can see the face all the time. In other rented ships,
I just lay it face up on the cowl deck and pick it up
from time to time to see what it says . . . it takes
me more than 20 minutes to get lost so I don't need
100% heads-up service from the receiver display.
Most important, since it's offered by Wal-Mart with
a no-hassles return policy, go try it for yourself.
It's a no-risk experiment.
/Thank you very much,
You're most welcom!
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | rnator Filter Capacitor |
The noise cap received in the F/W fwd kit appears not to be polarized.
There is a band running down one side (next to one of the post) that
has a "dashed" line on it. Am I suppose to assume that this line is
for the negative (-) connection? SS or someone please help.
ALL capacitors values useful for noise filtering on the PM alternators
are aluminum electrolytic capacitors and you've got to search really
hard to find special a.c. rated capacitors that are NOT polarized.
Your assumption about the dahes being minus signs is correct. Other
manufacturers will mold little (+) and/or (-) symbols into the
plastic end caps. Others use a dot of red paint adjacent to the
positive termial. In any case, make SURE these capacitors are installed
correctly. I've had several builders get messes in the cockpit ranging
from smoke, gooey stuff running out the ends and onto their shoes,
one builder had the end blow out making a lot of noise in addition
to the mess. Installed properly, aluminum electrolytics are a good
and necessary addition to the electrical system. Installed wrong and
. . . well . . . they smell bad too . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <Petermdavis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many.????. |
Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
> to change a light bulb?
>
>A: 1,331:
There is only 1330 mentioned. :-)
Surely that should be 'There ARE only 1330 mentioned?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <Petermdavis(at)compuserve.com> |
Nigel Charles (builder 203) has asked me to send out this message as he is
not on line.
He has large quantities of gauge 4 wire and is very happy to sell as much
as he has got. This, apparently, is the stuff to be used for the battery
and he assures me that it is aircraft quality.
He is offering it at 1.00 per foot, or at the incredible saving of 3.00
per metre. I understand that this is considerably less than yer
run-of-the-mill supplier, so anyone doing their own 'lectrics, he can be
contacted by 'phone on (01380) 860620, or address - Badger's Cottage,
Etchilhampton (that's what it says in the list), Devizes, Wiltshire, SN10
3JH.
'Fraid to admit, I am getting RD to do mine. Not only a case of bottling
out, but also wanting to progress things a bit faster. Actually, I've been
so intimidated by some of the stuff I have read on this forum about
aircraft electrics that I am amazed I still have the courage to switch on
the battery master.
Regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim buttons |
Two SPDT push buttons (Fig. 4 of the MAC info.) gets away from the doubtful
rocker switch. Furthermore if each is actually a DPDT, wiring the halves in
parallel give the redundacy needed to overcome dirty contacts. Doesn't guard
against sticking down so you still need an isolate, but only one thing to
press at a time. Pressing both by accident is safe .
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Straight Edges on Fin Postcure |
Hi Tony
The "template" was temporary, slightly smaller than the "real" closeout ply
(cos the fin tapers) but dead flush with the aftmost edge and running all the
way down, so the back inch can't spring in (which my (3"x2") beam allowed by
rotating). I warmed the fin with a heatgun to get the strain out which the
template put in when restoring the thing to its correct position, but I
believe if you cure with the template in place you won't get a narrowing in
the first place. The beam was clamped (with metal u-clamps ) to the fin side
in 4 places, making small cutouts in the template to let one leg inside.
Best wishes,
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <Petermdavis(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | l jacks and one use for a reaction plate. |
Make another one for those times you can't find the first! - if your life
is anything like mine:-(((
regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulley Installation |
>>I plan to avoid the rudder cable conflict problem(s) by routing them in
teflon lined bowden cable (using motorcycle rear brake cable stock) as far
aft as the rear cabin bulkhead.<<
Sounds like a good plan. If you plan to rotate the brake calliper 120 degrees so
that it won't rip the tyre when it punctures, do that first there isn't much
room in there. A suitable route for the cable will be easier to plan.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Turner <Tony_Turner_2(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many.????. |
Peter Davis wrote:
>> Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
> to change a light bulb?
>
>A: 1,331:
There is only 1330 mentioned. :-)
Surely that should be 'There ARE only 1330 mentioned? <<
Shouldn't there be a ' at the end of your suggestion ?
T.T.
Motoring with OzWin 2.10 (g3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John O'Connor" <OCONNORJ(at)btmaa.bel.alcatel.be> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Filter Capacitor |
> ..,. In any case, make SURE these capacitors are installed
> correctly. I've had several builders get messes in the cockpit ranging
> from smoke, gooey stuff running out the ends and onto their shoes,
> one builder had the end blow out making a lot of noise in addition
> to the mess.
Be warned that the goo that comes out of some of these guys is not
good for you. (Poly-Chrolinated Biphenols)
If the get hot enough, the gasses vented can be even worse. (Dioxins)
I think that there has been some legislation to enforce the use of
alternate materials now but it's a good idea to be careful.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Filter Capacitor |
> ..,. In any case, make SURE these capacitors are installed
> correctly. I've had several builders get messes in the cockpit ranging
> from smoke, gooey stuff running out the ends and onto their shoes,
> one builder had the end blow out making a lot of noise in addition
> to the mess.
>>Be warned that the goo that comes out of some of these guys is
>>not good for you. (Poly-Chrolinated Biphenols)
>If the get hot enough, the gasses vented can be even worse. (Dioxins)
>I think that there has been some legislation to enforce the use of
>alternate materials now but it's a good idea to be careful.
None of the prohibited materials were ever used in aluminum
electrolytic capacitors . . . and none have been used in ANY
capacitor construction for many years. Let's take care lest
we suffer phobia over-load.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
To all you happy internet boths, you will be please to know Europa Aviation
is back on line as of 7:30pm 17/04/97, yes pour old Chris is still burning
the midnight oil getting the site back on line we will read through the
emails on the 18/4/97 and reply A.S.A.P.
Many thanks for your Patients Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Systems, et. als. |
A number of items went by on this topic recently
and several have statements/questions that I'd like to
comment on. The following mini-diatribe is a response
to a mixture of original posts:
One gentleman asked what the the big deal was about trim
runaway and allowed as how stick forces shouldn't become
so great as to make things unmanagable . . .
I'll suggest that stick forces alone, while they may not
be great for a particular situation, there may be elements
of surprise or distraction that precipitate the mishap.
Grahm's situation is a good example. His airplane may indeed
have been quite flyable in the condition he discovered but
as soon as he sensed something wrong, his modus-operandi
became one of aborting a takeoff within the spaces which
remained in front of him.
Had he KNOWN exactly what the problem was, elected to deal with
it and continued the take-off, the whole thing might well have
ended more happily. But he DIDN'T know and elected to reject
the takeoff. The damage to his airplane was not a direct result
of trim runaway but from a secondary set of circumstances that
might have been triggered by any number of other malfunctions.
Let's consider the issue of stick forces for trim extremes.
How many of you already flying KNOW how manageable your airplane
is with trim set to either limit? This experiment should be
part of your flyoff plan. Go around the patch with increasing
degrees of mis-trim in both directions. Do the same exercise
at cruising speeds as well. Land, and note the position of your
trim tab or make careful note of what your trim indicator meter
says (I like them MUCH better than three-light systems). Do this
exercise for both forward and aft C.G. locations . . . some
airplanes handle very differently at their C.G. limits.
If you find that your system as currently configured is
CAPABLE of presenting you with uncomfortable stick forces,
you should take steps to physically limit the tab's travel.
This should be accomplished by reconfiguration of horn
and linkage geometry. I've seen builders add auxiliary
hard mechanical stops which caused damage to their actuators
because the internal limit switches were set OUTSIDE the
travel of the hard stops.
Many homebuilts have far too much trim authority both in travel
-and- speed. I'm building trim controllers right now for
a group of TA-16 Trojan builders (a big, all metal, 4-place
anphib). We've discovered in early flight testing that the
MAC servos (it takes two per airplane) are much too fast
with a full 14 volts applied in cruise. However, if we
slow them down with voltage adjustment for cruise, then
the system is frustratingly slow during approach. The answer
in this case is a two-speed switch build into the trim controller.
For the Lear 35's I used a switch that actuated at 10
degress of flap or greater to initiate high speed operation.
On the Lear 55 we had a microswitch on the stabilizer
actuator to select trim speed . . . the stab jack was
aways set for a LOT of up-trim in the approach configuration.
I proposed a later design for the Lears that would use
air data values for IAS and adjust trim speed accordingly
to give the pilot a fixed perception of trim action irrespective
of IAS. They never did act on that proposal. A similar
system is still quite applicable to airplanes like the
Lancair or Venture. Ships the size of Europa and Kitfox
can probably get by with a single speed but you still need
to decide WHAT the most comfortable speed is and design that
into your system.
On big airplanes, trim speed was limited by the pilot's
ability to react to a trim runaway. Hands in lap and
a/c trimed for level flight - trim runaway initiated.
Pilot had to wait 3 seconds before reacting. Trim
excursions were not allowed to be so fast that he
could not regain control of the airplane. The 3-second
wait was to allow for the "surprise" factor I spoke
of above.
Has anyone seen the trim used on the Rans S6?
It's looks very much like the Cessna type . . .
. . . wheel for an adjuster. The wheel is part of a worm drive
hooked to a solid wire/cable back to the tab. Very simple,
light weight and all mechanical, no electrics, easy to
see indicator. . . .
There are many variations on the theme out there. The most
important design consideration is slack and/or deflection
loading that can occur in the system when new, when at end
of service life -AND- when some part of it becomes disconnected.
The reason I'm doing this electric trim for the Trojan is because
one builder experience a very dynamic, low speed "flutter" that
drove the elevators stop to stop at about a 1 cycle per second
rate. Very violent but fortunately it occured at low speeds
(approach) and didn't overstress anything. They're not sure what
combination of things brought it back under control (the yolk
was untouchable during the event) but recovery and landing was
made.
The problem proved to be slack generated in the mechanical trim
system when pitch loads deflected structure between cockpit
and tail. After all things were considered, a very short
coupled electric system seemed to be in order. We've begun
flight testing and have yet to develop limits and speeds but
it WILL be done and SHOULD be done on every new airplane.
Seems like we (meaning most kitbuilders and manufacturers) spend
a tremendous amount of time trying to make things more complex
in the quest of convenience. Perhaps we should just look around
more at what has already been done by others so that we can improve
on good sound concepts. I don't mean that we shouldn't try to
come up with something new; there's nothing wrong with that.
It's just that new isn't necessarily always better. I think that
whenever we can serve our purpose with something that is simple
and mechanical, meaning non-electrical, (no offence Bob!) . . .
No offence taken . . .
. . . and does the job that's intended, then we've
accomplished a lot.
But take care that "simplification" doesn't negate some very
important aspect of system performance that the original designer
worked very hard to insure. When it comes to structures and
aerodynamics, not everything is plug-n-play. Amateur builders
have enviable opportunities to explore and incorporate
improvements but there are sound engineering and flight test
principals that have kept test pilots alive for a lot of years.
In the Trojan project alone, I came close to loosing two clients
in two different incidents in a half a year. All attributable to
deficiencies in ORIGINAL design that came to light long after the
first airplane had flown.
Rigidity, multiple load paths, travel limits, speed characterization,
satisfactory failure mode effects analysis, etc. are not just buzz
words. Before you consider any modifications, talk to the kit
designer. Bring your ideas to every forum that will discuss it with
you. Stand up before the world and defend your approach. Only after
you can field all the rocks thrown are you ready to build. Then,
seek the advice of an experienced test pilot to build a flight test
plan that allows you to sneak up on potential problems and perhaps
tickle them just enought to make 'em giggle . . . before they
turn around and bite.
There's nothing wrong with looking at other approaches . . . for
airplanes like Kitfox, may I suggest you look over the system
on the early Pipers? The PA-22 has a mini-stabilizer jack
screw driven by a crank and cable arrangement from the cockpit
overhead. The aerodynamic rigidity of this particular system
is excellent. Lot's of it's pieces can come unhooked without
causing a hazardous condition.
I'm all for simplification whether elecrical or mechanical but I'd
also like to read contributions to these forums that
speak of carefully explored successes; not of smoking holes in
the ground.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Trim Systems, et. als. |
Why the fear of things electrical? An electronic system, if well designed, can
be many times more reliable than a mechanical system. A small amount of light
and reliable electronics to complement existing systems can be very beneficial.
I am going to use a totally electronic engine management and fuel management
system in my aircraft because I know it can simplify my cockpit management. I
know that a small computer is going to be a much more reliable scanner of engine
parameters than I ever will be - if something goes out of spec then the computer
can warn me both visually and verbally. This leaves me to do the important
task of flying and frees me more scan time to watch out for the guy who has
his eyes inside the aircraft all the time. Simple electronics on board can be
used to assist with safety...every car you drive has a doors closed indicator
- why not your aircraft? For under $10 you can have a very effective check on
doors latches and for only a few dollars more this can be extended to pip pin
status.
I go along with Bob's - no resettable breakers in the cockpit - policy as well.
In fact I am going with solid state fuses and an LED indicator panel to show
the status of each circuit. Having been in electronics for the past 20 years
I was amazed the first time I flew an aircraft to discover how much space on a
panel is devoted to circuit breakers. If a breaker trips there is a good electrical
reason that it did so and pushing it in to see if you can reintroduce the
fault is not the way to resolve the issue! That breaker popped for a good
reason and it really wants to stay that way until you are on the ground.
Anyway, enough of the woffle - I unpacked my fuselage kit yesterday and I have
a zillion pieces to count :)
Tony
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | l Planner Software and some Sun 'n Fun bits |
Among the many items (a suitcase full) that I bought at Sun 'n Fun is a copy of
Panel Planner. For an amazingly low $99 this software is enough to keep you occupied
for many hours. I note that the Europa panel isn't quite right however
and remember someone mentioning this earlier. Has anybody got a correct panel
size for Panel Planner or am I going to have to spend an evening doing it myself?
It was really pleasing to see Ian Richards from Permagrit doing so well at Sun
'n Fun - he was certainly selling quite a bit when I walked past his stand.
There was a concensus opinion from all who saw it, that Aeropoxy's Lite filler
is definitely worth considering as a final filler coat. Aeropoxy Lite is a light,
sandable filler that doesn't breed pin holes overnight. It is a bit softer
than the West System Filler and SP Resin mix so isn't recommended for filling
deeper areas.
Best new toy - a Garmin GPSMAP 195. Bigger, clearer and dramatically improved reception
over the GPS90. I tested it this morning on a drive into the city and
had full 3D navigation even in the city centre surrounded by tall buildings.
Goodbye DI !
Voice Flight Avionics get my vote as the best of the (affordable) electronic engine
management systems. The unit fits in a standard instrument hole, talks to
you, has optional LCD displays and soon will have a graphical display available
as well. The guys who build the unit certainly know what they are talking about
and are really helpful. Archangel gets the prize of the best instrument panel
system - if you can afford the USD18,000 that they want for it. For that
figure you get a 12 inch display that rivals the instrument panel of a 747 - even
Graham Clark would approve :)
I spent some time looking over other kit manufacturers and the quality of the bits
they supply to the builders - folks, we don't know how lucky we are. The only
company that I found that exceeded the quality of the Europa kit was Stoddard
Hamilton. Their manuals have to be seen to be believed.
As far as aircraft go - I definitely made the right choice .... Other than the
Lancair which is in a whole different league, the Europa was by far the classiest
kit aircraft at the show.
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Systems, et. als. |
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
>
>
> I go along with Bob's - no resettable breakers in the cockpit - policy as well.
--
Tony,
Our airline 'standard operating procedure'policy is to not reset circuit breakers
in
flight. Pilots...hands off. Let the engineers deal with is on the ground.Interesting
to
note that this is a cast off from the "steam driven'airline days and in light of
the
"electronic elephants" we now fly often resetting circuit breakers after 15sec
pause
fixes a lot of problems.
Timothy. P. Ward
26 Tomes Road
Papanui,
Christchurch 8005
NEW ZEALAND
PH 64033525726
Fax 64033525726
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Software and some Sun 'n Fun |
bits
>Among the many items (a suitcase full) that I bought at Sun 'n Fun is a
copy of Panel Planner. For an amazingly low $99 this software is enough to
keep you occupied for many hours. I note that the Europa panel isn't quite
right however and remember someone mentioning this earlier. Has anybody got
a correct panel size for Panel Planner or am I going to have to spend an
evening doing it myself?
I have a copy of panel planner and am well pleased with what it does
(review in FLYER sometime soon....) and yep, the Europa panel isn't right:
however, not having my fuselage kit yet (er... serious modifications to the
mold on account of the BRS project...) I haven't been able to draw an
accurate one, so I guess it's up to you! Please post it in the avnet FTP
when you've done it!
On the BRS project: a few days ago we received a "Dummy" for installation
purposes. Going up to Kirbymoorside to thrash through the installation
details next week. Gulp. reckon it's going to add a few months at least to
the construction, never mind the paperwork.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Systems, et. als. |
In message <97Apr18.161233nzst.17025-1(at)quark.kaon.co.nz>, Tony
Krzyzewski writes
>An electronic system, if well designed, can be many times more reliable than a
>mechanical system.
Have to agree with that!
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Schweighoffer" <sch(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | ine pilots log book |
i am looking for a simple system to maintain my log book
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: airline pilots log book |
Matt Schweighoffer wrote:
>
> i am looking for a simple system to maintain my log book
I keep a record of my hours on Excel 4.0 spreadsheet laid out the same
way as presented in the CAA Pilot's Logbook. All hours are automatically
totalised. It is very easy to maintain, 'fill in the missing blanks'and
you can print it out and store it away for a backup. I get an
automatic read out of hours from the airline which I download from their
network.
Hope this is of some help.
Tim
--
Timothy. P. Ward
26 Tomes Road
Papanui,
Christchurch 8005
NEW ZEALAND
PH 64033525726
Fax 64033525726
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: How many.????. |
>Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
>> to change a light bulb?
>> >>A: 1,331:
>>There is only 1330 mentioned. :-)>
>Surely that should be 'There ARE only 1330 mentioned?
Thank God I have the pleasure of having to work with numbers rather than
words! Downunder a battle rages as to the appropriateness of the monarch,
so I cut a bit of licence when it comes to "the queens English". You are not
an ex teacher are you? I hated English! In fact I probably would have done a
lot better had I gone to the classes. Woops, forgot the topic. How is the
building going? I'm shaping tailplane tips very effectively using Tony Kiwis
faceting method. It takes the sting out of the anxiety of taking off foam
you can't put back, or not at least easily.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulley Installation |
John,
I've just come back from a day visit to another Europa builder in
Adelaide/South Australia, who had the same problem. For info, he relocated
the pulley hole down by using a smaller locally sourced pulley, and
maintaining the same cable run. This effectively lowers the centre, and top,
of the pulley and avoids this fouling problem. I am nowhere near this stage
but I also noted his setup for his rudder cables was such that he used a
little pulley just inside of the front of the wheelwell that kept the cable
run parallel with the longitudinal axis and clear of the gear. He made up a
block which changed the plane of rotation of the pulley such that it canted
inward at the top, no doubt to be perpendicular with the desired cable run.
This block was attached to the inside of the wheelwell, and the bolt
required was bracketted on the inside of the cockpit module with a L shaped
backing plate distributing the load onto the bottom of the firewall as well.
This setup avoids having to use spacers which intrude into an already
cramped location. I hope this helps.
Dino, I hope your dad doesn't mind me giving away his secrets! Say gidday
for me and I really enjoyed the visit and learned a lot! Cassie, my
daughter, had a great day as well, thanks to your mum!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>Figure 6 in chapter 17 which shows the installation of the rudder cable
>pulley is somewhat optimistic about the size of the hard point actually
>installed. If one scales the drawing up based on the size of the pulley one
>would expect the forward end of the hard point to be 8.4cm from the rear
>vertical face; the measured value on my kit is 7.4cm.
>
>In marking out the positions for the pulley and seat belt holes per the
>drawing I found that the seat belt bolt would be under the pulley rather than
>clear of the pulley as shown in the drawing.
>
>Since spacers will be added under the pulley, it is not clear whether the
>pulley will interfere with the end of the bolt if it is drilled per
>instructions. Some guidance here would be appreciated.
>
>Regards,
>
> John Moran, A044
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Strip Lamps causing Discolouration |
>>> I will fax off to SP Systems and see what they have to say. I'll keep in
>touch
>IS your resin SP Systems or Reapox? The latter is very prone to staining.
>
>Graham,
It is SP Systems.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | l Parts Treatment |
Graham,
What exactly did you treat your metal parts with, and of the builders under
your wing, what have they done?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: trim buttons |
>Two SPDT push buttons (Fig. 4 of the MAC info.) gets away from the doubtful
>rocker switch. Furthermore if each is actually a DPDT, wiring the halves in
>parallel give the redundacy needed to overcome dirty contacts. Doesn't guard
>against sticking down so you still need an isolate, but only one thing to
>press at a time. Pressing both by accident is safe .
The jargon got the better of me here, and as I would like to understand what
you are talking about Graham, can you please explain:
1)Fig 4. of the MAC info.
2)What a SPDT and a DPDT is?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>
>Graham C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many.????. |
1: Q: How many computer programmers does it take to change a light bulb?
A: It's a hardware problem.
2: Q: How does Bill Gates change a light bulb?
A: He doesn't. He just forces the industry to adopt "DARK" as the
new operating environment..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | ing Circuit Breakers |
/While at SnF last week, I got a good deal on a handful of "Klixon" circuit
/breakers. They are from salvage, but appear to be in good physical
/condition. I'm wondering I'm wondering if I should test them to make sure
/they're okay. Most are 5a, but I've also got a 10a and a 2a. The only test
/equipment I have is a budget Radio Shack multi-meter, and a 12 volt
/battery. What else do I need to be able to conduct a reasonable test? How
/do I go about hooking up a test circuit? I do have a "Micro-Monitor" which
/I haven't installed yet. It has an ammeter function which ranges from -9 to
/75. I suppose I could hook it up and use it for testing purposes. Any
/ideas?
Gee . . . if you REALLY gotta use those things . . . here's what you do.
Rig a setup to drive about three headlamps in parallel from your 12
volt battery. Try each of the breakers in series with the headlamps
to see if they trip. The small guys will trip sooner than the bigger
ones but the important part is that they DO trip. This is 99% of everything
you wanted to know about them. Then, I'd go ahead and use them in the airplane.
The probability of them DRIFTING in calibration by a significant amount
is very small.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Parts Treatment |
What exactly did you treat your metal parts with, and of the builders under
your wing, what have they done?
Most of us sent our parts to an aviation approved anodiser. However Charlie
Laverty (60) did his using Alodine, then paint. Charlie points out that (a) it's
important to do it warm and (b) if you plan to use etch primer it won't work on
top of Alodine. Or anodising I guess.Some Etch primers need heat too
apparently.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill(at)wynne.co.uk |
| Subject: | t Consultation Paper (Airfields) |
therefore know little about.
concerened get your pens out and do summ'at about it.
To those of you outside the UK please accept my appologies for bothering you.
like a home-sick angel (rumoured at over 1,100 fpm) with two grown-ups aboard.
don't go high.
local strutts. More news nearer the time. Hope to see you all at Cranfield?
and don't forget the first two above paras.
Bill W-Wynne N52=B036 W004=B004 (N Wales. UK) 01654 710101/2/3(fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
| Subject: | pex Canopies-suitable cleaning solvents. |
Can anyone suggest a safe solvent for degreasing the Perspex canopies
prior to bonding into the door frames.
I am not sure abrading alone will remove all traces of grease or
residues.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
>Q: How many internet mail list subscribers does it take
>> to change a light bulb?
>> >>A: 1,331:
>>There is only 1330 mentioned. :-)>
>Surely that should be 'There ARE only 1330 mentioned
I don't know how many it takes, but I believe that it must take at least
500 hrs and the finished light must be for your own use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Draft Consultation Paper (Airfields) |
like a home-sick angel (rumoured at over 1,100 fpm) with two grown-ups aboard.
Bill,
With Aero Developments NSI connection I assume their in flight adjustable hub is
the NSI unit (now also sold as the Warp Drive unit). I had a look at this unit
at Sun 'n Fun and very impressive it is too. It looks well built and has been
added to my shopping list as well. This unit has 54 inches of adjustment with
the minimum being ground settable. This allows it to almost feather or go beta
if you want - Bill you could reverse the plane into your hanger if you wanted
:)
You may be interested to know that Ivan set his prop at 19 inches for the Sun 'n
Fun race. He rotated in an amazingly short distance even with this setting but
then he flew along the runway at 50 or so feet to build speed up before disappearing
like a cut cat.
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Parker <silas(at)sirius.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Systems, et. als. |
I have Eudora ver 3.0 which thinks it has decoded your attachments,
however, this is not the case. All I get in notepad is gobblygook. What are
you using or more to the point, what must I use to decode your attachments?
>I think that whenever we can serve our purpose with something that is simple
>and mechanical, meaning non-electrical, (no offence Bob!) . . . and does
the job that's intended, then we've accomplished a lot.
>
>Why the fear of things electrical? An electronic system, if well designed,
can be many times more reliable than a mechanical system. A small amount of
light and reliable electronics to complement existing systems can be very
beneficial. I am going to use a totally electronic engine management and
fuel management system in my aircraft because I know it can simplify my
cockpit management. I know that a small computer is going to be a much more
reliable scanner of engine parameters than I ever will be - if something
goes out of spec then the computer can warn me both visually and verbally.
This leaves me to do the important task of flying and frees me more scan
time to watch out for the guy who has his eyes inside the aircraft all the
time. Simple electronics on board can be used to assist with safety...every
car you drive has a doors closed indicator - why not your aircraft? For
under $10 you can have a very effective check on doors latches and for only
a few dollars more this can be extended to pip pin status.
>
>I go along with Bob's - no resettable breakers in the cockpit - policy as
well. In fact I am going with solid state fuses and an LED indicator panel
to show the status of each circuit. Having been in electronics for the past
20 years I was amazed the first time I flew an aircraft to discover how
much space on a panel is devoted to circuit breakers. If a breaker trips
there is a good electrical reason that it did so and pushing it in to see
if you can reintroduce the fault is not the way to resolve the issue! That
breaker popped for a good reason and it really wants to stay that way until
you are on the ground.
>
>Anyway, enough of the woffle - I unpacked my fuselage kit yesterday and I
have a zillion pieces to count :)
>
>Tony
>
>tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
>
>
>Attachment Converted: "c:\program files\eudora\attach\RE Europa_Mail Trim
Systems, "
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Trim Systems, et. als. |
I have Eudora ver 3.0 which thinks it has decoded your attachments,
however, this is not the case. All I get in notepad is gobblygook. What are
you using or more to the point, what must I use to decode your attachments?
For those who have yet to install next generation mail systems just ignore any
attachments that you may see on my mail messages. The attachments which get stuck
on the end of my messages contain formatting information so if you run Microsoft
Outlook, Explorer 4 (for the brave at heart) and Notes plus a few others
then you will get to see the messages in Full Colour and with various fonts.
It will even draw real happy faces for you :)
Tony
Tony Krzyzewski Kaon Technologies Ltd
Managing Director PO Box 9830
Ph 64 9 358 9124 Auckland
Fx 64 9 358 9127 New Zealand
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Networkers visit: www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit: www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Draft Consultation Paper (Airfields) |
>
>To those of you outside the UK please accept my appologies for bothering you.
>
Sorry to hear you are loosing GA fields,we also are facing the same problem
here in the States at quite an alarming rate.Currently here in Oregon we are
hoping to save Lebanon airfield from the developers but as you say they are
a powerfull lobby and see more $$ from putting a mall up rather than keep an
airfield.In the Oregon legislature we now have a proposed bill to repeal
protection that now exists against encroachment by developers,and the only
hope we have against it is if enough support can be rallied by phone and
writing to your representatives.
You must make the effort if you are to keep the few fields that are left or
you will have an expensive toy sitting in your garage and no where to use it !!
Good luck.
Derek Reed
Oregon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | nding Shielded Wires |
/Question. Which end of a shielded wire should be run to
/ground?
Shielding of wires adds a modicum of protection for
two kinds of propogation into or out of a wire:
February 24, 1997 - April 21, 1997
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ai