Europa-Archive.digest.vol-dn
November 21, 2003 - December 04, 2003
I suggest you take a look at Graham Singleton's mod 10823 (for tank fittings
that take rigid Al lines) to see what he's done there, also the factory fuel
gauge mod paperwork (on their Web Site) gives an alternative routing that
you could take ideas from.
I'm running my gauge up the baggage bay, too - I don't want to see it in
flight - but details aren't finalised yet.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
| Subject: | XS Fuel System Mods. |
Andy,
I seem to recollect you saying some time ago that you were planning to
introduce a mod to reposition the fuel sight guage and the fuel vents. My
proposal follows.
I would like to T the line from the port fuel outlet to the port fuel
drain where it emerges from the tunnel and feed it across the well of the
baggage compartment and up the stb wall, venting into the fuel filler neck.
There would be a further vent line from the filler neck to the lower
fuselage. The tube is protected throughout its run by enclosing it in square
section conduit which is bent to follow the fuselage profile and is left
uncovered where it runs up from the floor to the fuselage joint line (this
is the guage proper). It will be easy to fit and access for inspection.
Fuel contents could be checked before and during flight providing a
backup to the Europa fuel guage mod. already fitted.
What do you think? Can you see any reason why this change would not be
acceptable? In particular, can the tank also be vented into the filler neck?
I would be grateful to have your comments prior to submitting this mod
to the PFA.
I am copying to the forum as I'm sure there will be others who will be
interested.
Regards
Mike
XS #440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | europa club christmas dinner |
>europa club christmas dinner
>
>Paul,
>
>I'll throw my hat in the ring to assist if you want. It's a short hop over
>to your
>neck of the woods for a lot of people in the west. I know for myself, any
>and all learning I can get via association with more knowledgeable
>builders and
>flyers is a plus.
>
>Dan
Go for it you guys. I went to the canard gathering at Rough River
(Kentucky) in September. Wonderful to meet so many of the people who have
so much knowledge and experience to share. Even astronaut Jim Voss was
there giving rides! The Europa gatherings here are growing the same way. We
all learn something. ( I need to learn something every day in case I forget
too many things ?;-)
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XS Fuel System Mods. |
Jeremy,
My sight guage will be fed from the same line as shown in the manual.
The factory fuel drain mod has the guage T'd iinto the port drain line which
gets its supply from a separate pipe within the tank so air cannot be sucked
in.
Incidentally, any chance of you letting me have a copy of your mod
submission for the pip pin covers?
Regards
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys and/girls (
As distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else entirely.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Hi! Guys
Hope you got back safely ? I only achieved part of my "detail" today, managed to
collect my Son from Stanstead by car!
When I got to Wickenby to fly to Sherburn it was really quite impossible.
I know Mike Parkin and Bryan Alsop went but still need confirmation of any others?
Bryan and I have "voted" that William Mills is the IC organiser for next week !
Hope you have better luck than me William! But let me know.
Best regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Once more it's proven that we Canucks and our Aremican friends have no
corner on the funny market! Pink Chit it is!
"----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?"
Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys and/girls. As
distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else entirely.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Ok, I'll bite...................what is a "Goolie Chit" ?
Regards,
Garry V. Stout (USA)
Once more it's proven that we Canucks and our Aremican friends have no
corner on the funny market! Pink Chit it is!
"----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?"
Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys
and/girls. As
distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else entirely.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
Refers to the little slip of paper issued to public schoolboys by their
Housemasters when given leave of absence. A quaint old English tradition!
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Subject: Europa-List: Pink Chit
Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys and/girls (
As distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else entirely.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
'Goolies' ... AKA 'bollocks'.
Cf. 'Googly' - a type of delivery in cricket
Cf. 'Goalie' - a position in football
Cf. 'Goole' - a place in England where boats keep bouncing off the railway
swing-bridge
Oooops, sorry - got a bit carried away there...
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of STOUT, GARRY V,
CSFF2
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Ho HO
Ok, I'll bite...................what is a "Goolie Chit" ?
Regards,
Garry V. Stout (USA)
Once more it's proven that we Canucks and our Aremican friends have no
corner on the funny market! Pink Chit it is!
"----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?"
Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys
and/girls. As
distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else entirely.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
You may remember a thread some weeks ago started by Ron Parigoris about
problems with digital scales that ignored any very small, very slow
increments in weight? His test involved weighing a piece of Letter paper,
then tearing it up and reweighing it, putting the pieces on very slowly.
After a long search for a piece of Letter-sized paper to undertake the test
(we use A4 over here) I tried it and, to my surprise, my scales failed!
Now this was potentially a serious problem. I measure Ampreg 20 by weighing
a pre-decided weight of resin, then adding hardener with a syringe, slowing
to a drop at a time at the end. I'd often found that the last 0.5g or so (my
scales have 1 decimal place) took a lot more drops of hardener than
expected. Now I knew why!
Fortunately for me I had discovered a few days previously that a friend in
the village is a representative for a well-known laboratory scales company.
I'd had problems reading my scales from some angles ever since I tried to
wipe off some drops of resin/hardener with an acetone-soaked piece of paper
towel (D'oh!!) and got a semi-opaque screen. He'd offered me a redundant
sample from his large stock.
With my new scales, the sort that have a spirit bubble and are accurate to
0.001g, I found that a drop of hardener weighs 0.03 to 0.05g. So what was
the worst-case scenario? My best guess was that in the worst cases I'd added
10 extra drops, making the mix with 0.5g excess hardener at most. The
smallest mixes I'd made were 40.0g resin + 10.0g hardener in order to keep
the proportions within the accuracy (!!) of the scales. So these cases could
be up to 5% excess hardener.
I checked with a number of people for an opinion: my inspector, the Europa
Factory, Dr. Bill Brooks of Scrapheap Challenge and Pegasus Aviation fame (a
top bloke!). No-one knew for sure if I'd have a problem - and so far I'd
done the tail, ailerons, flaps, XS wings and Cockpit module. I didn't want
to ask SP Systems because I feared the litigation-aware response of 'if the
ratio is wrong, you must redo everything'.
Bill's suggestion was to call SP Systems, and he did have a point, so I rang
Martin Armstrong in their product support (who I knew was excellent from
previous experience with another question). To cut a long story short,
Martin suggested the eminently practical idea of making up a deliberately
worst-case-scenario batch of epoxy using my old scales and usual technique,
cure it for three days, then send it to them for testing.
The results were most interesting, and I'm in the clear - the sample was
strong enough (PLEASE DO NOT TREAT THIS AS AN EXCUSE TO BE LESS METICULOUS
IN YOUR EPOXY RATIOS!!). Strangely enough the sample gave indications of
being cured at 50C - I hadn't done this (I heat the workshop to a consistent
22-24C) so I assume the striking postal workers must have left it over their
brazier for a few days.
I wanted to tell this story in order to encourage people to check their
scales for the issue, and also to publicly thank SP Systems for the high
quality of their product support. I was a very worried chap for a while.
Once again I am glad I chose the kit I did, and that the various suppliers
of parts are fully behind their products.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Watts" <dg.watts(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flying hours |
I love it to bits, every minute of it.
Dave
>
> Dave you sign off
>
> "Dave Watts G-BXDY Flying 960 hrs".
>
> Getting the hang of it yet?
>
> Bryan A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
Yes Bob! We all made it, apart from you. The bacon sandwich was absolutely
delicious. The weather however would have been a challenge to an other than
a proficient mono flyer.
The baton was passed on to a grateful William Mills who had managed to make
it from the middle of Wales (the one in the UK). This time he will be sure
which airfield and date it is going to be without us confusing the issue.
He is contemplating a meet sometime in the next fortnight and fairly
central.
Regards. Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: UK W.D.F.I.
>
> Hi! Guys
> Hope you got back safely ? I only achieved part of my "detail" today,
managed to collect my Son from Stanstead by car!
> When I got to Wickenby to fly to Sherburn it was really quite impossible.
> I know Mike Parkin and Bryan Alsop went but still need confirmation of any
others?
> Bryan and I have "voted" that William Mills is the IC organiser for next
week !
> Hope you have better luck than me William! But let me know.
> Best regards
> Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: europa club christmas dinner |
OK... Dan give me your telephone number and we'll hook up after first of the year
to start planning a party for next year. We'll need a list of all US builders/flyers
as well... might as well invite the whole dang country... you never
know when someone's gonna be in Los Angeles for whatever.
I'm going on vacation and won't be back til Dec 10 (lucky me). See ya
Paul Boulet, Malibu, California
N914PB
A212
Graham Singleton wrote:
>europa club christmas dinner
>
>Paul,
>
>I'll throw my hat in the ring to assist if you want. It's a short hop over
>to your
>neck of the woods for a lot of people in the west. I know for myself, any
>and all learning I can get via association with more knowledgeable
>builders and
>flyers is a plus.
>
>Dan
Go for it you guys. I went to the canard gathering at Rough River
(Kentucky) in September. Wonderful to meet so many of the people who have
so much knowledge and experience to share. Even astronaut Jim Voss was
there giving rides! The Europa gatherings here are growing the same way. We
all learn something. ( I need to learn something every day in case I forget
too many things ?;-)
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
Hi folks,
I am installing the windows and I noticed on Tony K's log that he
recommends Spraylat to coat the polycarbonate so it doesn't get
scratched. Aircraft spruce carries and describes how to spray it on. I
simply brushed it on and it goes on very easy and washes off with water.
One quart will do two Europas. If it prevents scratches, it is well
worth it. I hadn't seen it mentioned anywhere and thought you might be
interested.
Thanks Tony...
Tom Friedland XS mono Jabiru/Airmaster. Just the final do dads to do!
You know, 90% done, what % to go...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Sounds like a "kitchen pass" to me.
Steve
> [Original Message]
> From: Mike <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
> To:
> Date: 11/21/03 3:54:53 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Pink Chit
>
>
> Permission from the other half to go out to play with the boys and/girls (
> As distinct from the 'Goolie chit' which refers to something else
entirely.
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Paul" <tom(at)tompaul.com>
> > For those of us on the other side of the puddle, what's a pink chit?
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>Spraylat
>Hi folks,
>
>I am installing the windows and I noticed on Tony K's log that he
>recommends Spraylat to coat the polycarbonate so it doesn't get
>scratched.
One or two things to watch with Spraylat. If it is left on for a long time,
(couple of years) and particularly if it's exposed to sunlight or UV, it
goes brittle and is a real pain to get off. I am told the best way to
remove it if that happens is to add a couple more coats.
BTW the windows are not polycarbonate, they're polymethyl methacrylate.
Plexiglas or Perspex. The US supplied ones are Polycast I believe.
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Hi All,
I have just removed the Spraylat from my windows and interestingly enough
the most difficult stuff to get off was where I had applied a second coat
I used duct tape to pull of the hard bits and the stubborn bits I removed
with alcohol, although if I had thought of it I probably would have tried
water, it may have worked.
From my experiences I would completely remove it each year and re apply. I
found the stuff 12 months old came off easily. The mistake I made was to
put a second coat over the existing stuff.
Cheers, Paul
Off to the paint shop next week.
> One or two things to watch with Spraylat. If it is left on for a long
time,
> (couple of years) and particularly if it's exposed to sunlight or UV, it
> goes brittle and is a real pain to get off. I am told the best way to
> remove it if that happens is to add a couple more coats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
Hi Paul,
Was the second coat applied at the same time as the first or or as Graham
described; a fresh coat over an old coat? Also, did you apply yours with a
brush or paint sprayer?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spraylat
Hi All,
I have just removed the Spraylat from my windows and interestingly enough
the most difficult stuff to get off was where I had applied a second coat
I used duct tape to pull of the hard bits and the stubborn bits I removed
with alcohol, although if I had thought of it I probably would have tried
water, it may have worked.
>From my experiences I would completely remove it each year and re apply. I
found the stuff 12 months old came off easily. The mistake I made was to
put a second coat over the existing stuff.
Cheers, Paul
Off to the paint shop next week.
> One or two things to watch with Spraylat. If it is left on for a long
time,
> (couple of years) and particularly if it's exposed to sunlight or UV, it
> goes brittle and is a real pain to get off. I am told the best way to
> remove it if that happens is to add a couple more coats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Timothy P Ward ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Timothy P Ward
Subject: Misc Parts For Sale...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ward.t@xtra.co.nz.11.22.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
I cant seem to find spraylat in my Spruce catalog. You guys know where to
find it?
Installing the windshield today.
Kevin
Airframe complete, lots of finishing to do. No panel or wiring yet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy Maynor
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Spraylat
Hi Paul,
Was the second coat applied at the same time as the first or or as Graham
described; a fresh coat over an old coat? Also, did you apply yours with a
brush or paint sprayer?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spraylat
Hi All,
I have just removed the Spraylat from my windows and interestingly enough
the most difficult stuff to get off was where I had applied a second coat
I used duct tape to pull of the hard bits and the stubborn bits I removed
with alcohol, although if I had thought of it I probably would have tried
water, it may have worked.
>From my experiences I would completely remove it each year and re apply. I
found the stuff 12 months old came off easily. The mistake I made was to
put a second coat over the existing stuff.
Cheers, Paul
Off to the paint shop next week.
> One or two things to watch with Spraylat. If it is left on for a long
time,
> (couple of years) and particularly if it's exposed to sunlight or UV, it
> goes brittle and is a real pain to get off. I am told the best way to
> remove it if that happens is to add a couple more coats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
Yeah, it is in the section on plastics in the front of the catalog...
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Klinefelter
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Spraylat
I cant seem to find spraylat in my Spruce catalog. You guys know where
to
find it?
Installing the windshield today.
Kevin
Airframe complete, lots of finishing to do. No panel or wiring yet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy Maynor
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Spraylat
Hi Paul,
Was the second coat applied at the same time as the first or or as
Graham
described; a fresh coat over an old coat? Also, did you apply yours with
a
brush or paint sprayer?
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spraylat
Hi All,
I have just removed the Spraylat from my windows and interestingly
enough
the most difficult stuff to get off was where I had applied a second
coat
I used duct tape to pull of the hard bits and the stubborn bits I
removed
with alcohol, although if I had thought of it I probably would have
tried
water, it may have worked.
>From my experiences I would completely remove it each year and re
apply. I
found the stuff 12 months old came off easily. The mistake I made was
to
put a second coat over the existing stuff.
Cheers, Paul
Off to the paint shop next week.
> One or two things to watch with Spraylat. If it is left on for a long
time,
> (couple of years) and particularly if it's exposed to sunlight or UV,
it
> goes brittle and is a real pain to get off. I am told the best way to
> remove it if that happens is to add a couple more coats.
=
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <mx(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | List Support Site |
Two new items.
One is pictures of the propeller tip guards and the angled fuel filler pipe
which Tim Ward offered to supply a few days ago, plus another picture of the
control stick boots he has been arranging to get for some time. See
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Misc/boots.htm
The other is the inclusion of Bob Harrison's pictures of his wing rigging aids
(which were put on Matronics' Photo Share site s few days ago) in the group of
pages describing his Europa. See
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/BobH/Rigging/rig.htm
New readers start at http://www.crix.org.uk
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Troy,
I applied a fresh coat over an old coat using a brush.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Bob,
I did manage to get to Sherburn, but an hour late owing to the sheep problem
at Abergavenny. I launched from Upfield Farm Newport. (Bryan, its as far
South Wales as you can get!) Nice bacon butty for lunch, good company, (+
two pilots considering building a Europa) and good flight home.
Next week looks like Thursday, so I'll pick a venue and confirm later.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: UK W.D.F.I.
>
> Hi! Guys
> Hope you got back safely ? I only achieved part of my "detail" today,
managed to collect my Son from Stanstead by car!
> When I got to Wickenby to fly to Sherburn it was really quite impossible.
> I know Mike Parkin and Bryan Alsop went but still need confirmation of any
others?
> Bryan and I have "voted" that William Mills is the IC organiser for next
week !
> Hope you have better luck than me William! But let me know.
> Best regards
> Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 11/22/03 |
>Spraylat
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I have just removed the Spraylat from my windows and interestingly enough
>the most difficult stuff to get off was where I had applied a second coat
There you go! Thanks Paul, experience is what counts. Always get a second
opinion on anything I say!
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baggage bay angle |
What is the normal angle of the deck in the baggage bay? The manual picture
shows it angled but approximately how much? Tried to make it level but the
front lips don't over lap when I do. Then I set the angle so when the hatch way
cover is installed the bottom of that is level. Or parallel to the slope of
the floor of the canoe? The one thing I kept constant is the gap between the
torque tube and the rear edge of the bay. Or does it not matter as long as the
bay does not interfere with the torque tube?
"Trial fit the bulkhead in place and measure the height of the ribs. Cut out
the ribs approximately 3 mm (1/8") less in height then the measured figure and
22 cm (8") long." Page 28-14 Issue 2
What the heck? Translated:
Arbitrarily measure a distance from zero to infinity whatever you pick is
wrong. Subtract 1/8", well approximately 1/8" could be a 1/16" could be a 1/4"
OK
well.... Pick some fraction in relation to nothing and the subtract that. One
thing for sure it's 8" long.... I think.... Start cutting. : )
Thanks, SteveD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Baggage bay angle |
Hey Dude, 3/4" space between the deck and the pitch tube. Make a spacer
3/4", tape it to the tube and then follow the directions. I think they
forgot that part.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ScramIt(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Baggage bay angle
What is the normal angle of the deck in the baggage bay? The manual picture
shows it angled but approximately how much? Tried to make it level but the
front lips don't over lap when I do. Then I set the angle so when the hatch
way
cover is installed the bottom of that is level. Or parallel to the slope of
the floor of the canoe? The one thing I kept constant is the gap between the
torque tube and the rear edge of the bay. Or does it not matter as long as
the
bay does not interfere with the torque tube?
"Trial fit the bulkhead in place and measure the height of the ribs. Cut out
the ribs approximately 3 mm (1/8") less in height then the measured figure
and
22 cm (8") long." Page 28-14 Issue 2
What the heck? Translated:
Arbitrarily measure a distance from zero to infinity whatever you pick is
wrong. Subtract 1/8", well approximately 1/8" could be a 1/16" could be a
1/4" OK
well.... Pick some fraction in relation to nothing and the subtract that.
One
thing for sure it's 8" long.... I think.... Start cutting. : )
Thanks, SteveD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage bay angle |
Thanks!
That's what I did, got the spacers cut already. For some unknown reason I got
it into my head to level it. Soon as I got over that everything worked out
OK.
Decided to get away from the glue for a while, and started my metal firewall.
I saw on some sites that this can be a tough job. 5 1/2 hours later it's
painted and installed. It went so fast I didn't even get any pictures of the build
for my web site.
Sometimes you get the bear and sometimes the bear gets you....
Chat later!
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | High temperature adhesive |
Hi all,
I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested that
AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for this purpose.
I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does anyone happen
to know the cat number, or have a recommendation as to what to use.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High temperature adhesive |
Hi Paul,
I am not sure if that will work, but on page 123 on the newest cat P/N
05-00800 there is a high temp glue for fiberfrax insulation material. I do
not have personal experience but I had not long ago a piece of Fiberfrax in
my hands. Fiberfrax is a cloth, almost asbestos like, material.
You may ask ACS if that glue could work for the foil as well.
Michael Grass
A266 Stage 1 almost finished.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
>
> Hi all,
>
> I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested
that AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for
this purpose. I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does
anyone happen to know the cat number, or have a recommendation as to what
to use.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plexiglas to the door? |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
What a weekend, connected all brake lines and the Matco brake. Plus bonded
the port & starboard Plexiglas into the doors. Would like to know what
others have done to smooth the transition of door to glass. The glass seams
just slightly proud of the door. Should I just fill & sand up to the edge of
the Plexiglas, or has someone got a better idea? Can the very edge of the
glass be sanded down to match?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
A258 Tri
Airframe really looks like a plane now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglas to the door? |
Jeff
What I did was to grind off a small amount of the plex around the edge. Just
a little to ; 1) make a tooth for the filler 2) reduce the amount of height
the filler had to fair. Then fill as normal with the stuff that came in the
kit.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa(at)comcast.net "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Plexiglas to the door?
>
> What a weekend, connected all brake lines and the Matco brake. Plus bonded
> the port & starboard Plexiglas into the doors. Would like to know what
> others have done to smooth the transition of door to glass. The glass
seams
> just slightly proud of the door. Should I just fill & sand up to the edge
of
> the Plexiglas, or has someone got a better idea? Can the very edge of the
> glass be sanded down to match?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeff
> A258 Tri
> Airframe really looks like a plane now!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Aileron trim wire? |
Managed to get Ray Allen T4-5 servo mounted to port aileron.
Mounted the base of the servo flush with the top of the aileron. No cover
needed. Inserted some G-10 between the outer skin and foam and floxed in
place, and riveted on some 6-32 anchor nuts.
Would appreciate some thoughts on powering servo.
What type of wire and or protector and routing has been used successful to run
from wing to aileron?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | UK Weekday Fly-in |
Hello All,
This week I have selected SLEAP for the fly-in. There are free landing and lunch
vouchers in Today's Pilot and it has a fairly central location for England
and Wales, although a long trek from the SE. Three Europas use Sleap for their
base. It is located within the Shawbury MATZ, LARS 120.77. There is a pleasant
club room and I will try to ensure food is available on the chosen day.
The weather this week is very changeable (as they say) with a variety of fronts
crossing the UK, so getting the right slot is going to be difficult. At my last
check Thursday was looking promising, but any of you with a good source of
forecasting, please let me have your deliberations.
For club catering purposes, please let me know if you are going to try to make
it.
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Hi! William./All
I'll try my best to make it to the SLEAP airfield on Thursday.(The only
enemy is the weather, my event on Friday really was on safety borderline,
we shouldn't be pushing ourselves to take those kind of risks)
However to reinforce my point of having spontaneous Fly In events I can't
help looking out of the window thinking why in hell's name I aren't going
flying today? Instead of waiting for Thursday with what you admit just may
have some doubt because of the blessed weather. I at present can't see a
cloud except vapour trails, vis is about 10 miles.
If interested "punters" had registered and exchanged 'phone numbers we could
be on our way in just over an hour including rigging time or as Ivan Shaw
once said at "Sun and Fun" he could have started in the car park and still
won the race!
I'm thinking of starting a weekly Fly In event called :-
"Big Boy's Toys Instant Decision Weekday Fly Away "!? My Wife says "keep it
simple call it Geri's Day Out " ( get her drift ---geriatrics!)
By the way .....Kingsley Hurst in OZ ..... My Son, who starts a new job
this morning , has just sent me a text message .... He's heard that the
"UK are to suspend Australian wine imports ........... due to SOUR GRAPES
!!!!!!"
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>
> Hello All,
> This week I have selected SLEAP for the fly-in. There are free landing
and lunch vouchers in Today's Pilot and it has a fairly central location for
England and Wales, although a long trek from the SE. Three Europas use
Sleap for their base. It is located within the Shawbury MATZ, LARS 120.77.
There is a pleasant club room and I will try to ensure food is available on
the chosen day.
> The weather this week is very changeable (as they say) with a variety of
fronts crossing the UK, so getting the right slot is going to be difficult.
At my last check Thursday was looking promising, but any of you with a good
source of forecasting, please let me have your deliberations.
> For club catering purposes, please let me know if you are going to try to
make it.
> Regards,
> William
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | High temperature adhesive |
Hi Paul and all,
What is a good product (heat reflective foil) to stick on the firewall?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
Hi all,
I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested
that AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for
this purpose. I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does
anyone happen to know the cat number, or have a recommendation as to what
to use.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron trim wire? |
Hi Ron, What is G-10? Do you have any photos of your install that you might
send to me? I have yet to fill my otherwise completed ailerons and am
debating doing "just one more modification". I have a Trutrak autopilot
installed under the seat, no wiring done yet.
Thanks, Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron trim wire?
Managed to get Ray Allen T4-5 servo mounted to port aileron.
Mounted the base of the servo flush with the top of the aileron. No cover
needed. Inserted some G-10 between the outer skin and foam and floxed in
place, and riveted on some 6-32 anchor nuts.
Would appreciate some thoughts on powering servo.
What type of wire and or protector and routing has been used successful to
run
from wing to aileron?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoddyEuropa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High temperature adhesive |
The performance car people (e.g Demon tweaks in the UK) sell self adhesive foil
with insulation backing. I have used this near the exhaust (after charring my
first cowling near the silencer). It works well, but is quite expensive.
Roddy Kesterton #220
.In a message dated 11/24/2003 8:31:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, kevann(at)gte.net
writes:
> Hi Paul and all,
>
> What is a good product (heat reflective foil) to stick on the firewall?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested
> that AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for
> this purpose. I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does
> anyone happen to know the cat number, or have a
> recommendation as to what
> to use.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglas to the door? |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 11/23/03 11:45 PM, Cliff Shaw at flyinggpa(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
> Jeff
>
> What I did was to grind off a small amount of the plex around the edge. Just
> a little to ; 1) make a tooth for the filler 2) reduce the amount of height
> the filler had to fair. Then fill as normal with the stuff that came in the
> kit.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds WA 98020
> (425) 776-5555
> N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
> New Email:" flyinggpa(at)comcast.net "
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> To: "Matronics Lists"
> Subject: Europa-List: Plexiglas to the door?
>
>
>>
>> What a weekend, connected all brake lines and the Matco brake. Plus bonded
>> the port & starboard Plexiglas into the doors. Would like to know what
>> others have done to smooth the transition of door to glass. The glass
> seams
>> just slightly proud of the door. Should I just fill & sand up to the edge
> of
>> the Plexiglas, or has someone got a better idea? Can the very edge of the
>> glass be sanded down to match?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Jeff
>> A258 Tri
>> Airframe really looks like a plane now!
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Cliff
That was what I thought. Thanks for confirming.
Jeff A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High temperature adhesive |
Kevin
I used Heat Barrier Adhesive Backed p/n 08-00600 from Aircraft Spruce.
In the 12" x 24" sheets. It has worked well on my SX . I also used the
Aluminized Tape p/n 09-47420.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa(at)comcast.net "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
>
> Hi Paul and all,
>
> What is a good product (heat reflective foil) to stick on the firewall?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested
> that AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for
> this purpose. I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does
> anyone happen to know the cat number, or have a recommendation as to what
> to use.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron trim wire? |
G-10 is FR-4 without the fire retardant. Oh, I guess that does not help
much.
G-10 is an epoxy-fiberglass laminate used for printed circuit boards, and
other electrical stuff.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin
Klinefelter
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Aileron trim wire?
Hi Ron, What is G-10? Do you have any photos of your install that you might
send to me? I have yet to fill my otherwise completed ailerons and am
debating doing "just one more modification". I have a Trutrak autopilot
installed under the seat, no wiring done yet.
Thanks, Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron trim wire?
Managed to get Ray Allen T4-5 servo mounted to port aileron.
Mounted the base of the servo flush with the top of the aileron. No cover
needed. Inserted some G-10 between the outer skin and foam and floxed in
place, and riveted on some 6-32 anchor nuts.
Would appreciate some thoughts on powering servo.
What type of wire and or protector and routing has been used successful to
run
from wing to aileron?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: High temperature adhesive |
I find that high temperature silicone is good for sticking on heat
reflective cloth.The trick is to apply thickly then squeeze out to a thin
film below the cloth. Silicone seems to be much more difficult to get off
when spread thinly!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: High temperature adhesive
>
> Hi all,
>
> I want to stick heat reflective foil onto my firewall. Someone suggested
that AC Spruce had a high temperature adhesive that would be suitable for
this purpose. I haven't been able to find it in their catalogue. Does
anyone happen to know the cat number, or have a recommendation as to what
to use.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Never fear William. The concept is to have a venue arranged with a freebie
landing. We have our aeroplanes ready and waiting for the baton holder (you
in this case) to declare the day.
You certainly cant please all of the people all of the time. The weather on
the day may be unsuitable for some to get there. The day selected will
almost certainly be wrong for others. Whatever! The baton holder chooses.
That's part of the fun of it. You cant decide by committee.
It could even stretch to a week or so before a good weather slot turns up,
but the choice of a potential good turn out, or not may depend on it. Have
fun with the weather gods, we will keep watching.
Best regards.. Bryan. PS. Avbrief three day suggests VFR only in the
Southern Countys on Thursday--- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>
> Hello All,
> This week I have selected SLEAP for the fly-in. There are free landing
and lunch vouchers in Today's Pilot and it has a fairly central location for
England and Wales, although a long trek from the SE. Three Europas use
Sleap for their base. It is located within the Shawbury MATZ, LARS 120.77.
There is a pleasant club room and I will try to ensure food is available on
the chosen day.
> The weather this week is very changeable (as they say) with a variety of
fronts crossing the UK, so getting the right slot is going to be difficult.
At my last check Thursday was looking promising, but any of you with a good
source of forecasting, please let me have your deliberations.
> For club catering purposes, please let me know if you are going to try to
make it.
> Regards,
> William
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim wire? |
Hi all. Just finished my aileron servo install. Before I did it I asked
everyone I could find how they ran the wires. Everyone I talked to came out the
front edge of the aileron. I kept picturing that getting caught on something and
interfering with aileron movement.
I drilled in the from the outboard edge of the aileron near the wing tip. I
ran 1/4 tubing along the leading edge to the servo. In the wing in ran a larger
tube like an S from my wing conduit to the wing tip close out. So when I run
the wire it goes in a tube within a tube, at a point with very little relative
movement.
I'll have pictures on the site soon, I upgraded my system software and my
auto site builder program not longer runs.
Chat later,
SteveD.
A217
After reading that description you know why I take a lot of pictures.... : )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Dear All,
THURSDAY is still looking good for SLEAP. I will only change it if the
weather slot moves Please give me an idea who is going to attend for the
catering request.
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Sweeting <Paul.Sweeting(at)ntl.com> |
Hi Jez,
Very intresting - especially as I decided to purchase the My-weigh i500 with
500g capacity and .1g resoution, but its out of stock at right on scales
http://www.rightonscales.co.uk/i500.htm, probably cos its 20 cheaper here
at 55 than elsewhere .
So therefore are you inferring that 0.1g is too low a resolution or
specifically the mechanism of the scales is at fault, i.e some scales react
this way whilst others do not??
Don't tell me to be assured of the correct accuracy, a balance with a lot
higher resolution at a lot more cost is required...
Cheers
Paul..
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Davey [mailto:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty scales
You may remember a thread some weeks ago started by Ron Parigoris about
problems with digital scales that ignored any very small, very slow
increments in weight? His test involved weighing a piece of Letter paper,
then tearing it up and reweighing it, putting the pieces on very slowly.
After a long search for a piece of Letter-sized paper to undertake the test
(we use A4 over here) I tried it and, to my surprise, my scales failed!
Now this was potentially a serious problem. I measure Ampreg 20 by weighing
a pre-decided weight of resin, then adding hardener with a syringe, slowing
to a drop at a time at the end. I'd often found that the last 0.5g or so (my
scales have 1 decimal place) took a lot more drops of hardener than
expected. Now I knew why!
Fortunately for me I had discovered a few days previously that a friend in
the village is a representative for a well-known laboratory scales company.
I'd had problems reading my scales from some angles ever since I tried to
wipe off some drops of resin/hardener with an acetone-soaked piece of paper
towel (D'oh!!) and got a semi-opaque screen. He'd offered me a redundant
sample from his large stock.
With my new scales, the sort that have a spirit bubble and are accurate to
0.001g, I found that a drop of hardener weighs 0.03 to 0.05g. So what was
the worst-case scenario? My best guess was that in the worst cases I'd added
10 extra drops, making the mix with 0.5g excess hardener at most. The
smallest mixes I'd made were 40.0g resin + 10.0g hardener in order to keep
the proportions within the accuracy (!!) of the scales. So these cases could
be up to 5% excess hardener.
I checked with a number of people for an opinion: my inspector, the Europa
Factory, Dr. Bill Brooks of Scrapheap Challenge and Pegasus Aviation fame (a
top bloke!). No-one knew for sure if I'd have a problem - and so far I'd
done the tail, ailerons, flaps, XS wings and Cockpit module. I didn't want
to ask SP Systems because I feared the litigation-aware response of 'if the
ratio is wrong, you must redo everything'.
Bill's suggestion was to call SP Systems, and he did have a point, so I rang
Martin Armstrong in their product support (who I knew was excellent from
previous experience with another question). To cut a long story short,
Martin suggested the eminently practical idea of making up a deliberately
worst-case-scenario batch of epoxy using my old scales and usual technique,
cure it for three days, then send it to them for testing.
The results were most interesting, and I'm in the clear - the sample was
strong enough (PLEASE DO NOT TREAT THIS AS AN EXCUSE TO BE LESS METICULOUS
IN YOUR EPOXY RATIOS!!). Strangely enough the sample gave indications of
being cured at 50C - I hadn't done this (I heat the workshop to a consistent
22-24C) so I assume the striking postal workers must have left it over their
brazier for a few days.
I wanted to tell this story in order to encourage people to check their
scales for the issue, and also to publicly thank SP Systems for the high
quality of their product support. I was a very worried chap for a while.
Once again I am glad I chose the kit I did, and that the various suppliers
of parts are fully behind their products.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Sweeting <Paul.Sweeting(at)ntl.com> |
But do now recall in my chemistry days being taught to always take the item
off and then place back on the balance after addition or subtraction..
So the correct method to overcome this would be to add a drop or two, then
take cup off balance and place back on, before adding more??
Cheers
Paul..
p.s surely you mean ISO A4 not A4..... i.e 297mm X 210mm not 11.?" x 8.?"
- how do I know the difference, lots of very expensive pre-printed cheques
that didnt quite line up........
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Davey [mailto:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty scales
You may remember a thread some weeks ago started by Ron Parigoris about
problems with digital scales that ignored any very small, very slow
increments in weight? His test involved weighing a piece of Letter paper,
then tearing it up and reweighing it, putting the pieces on very slowly.
After a long search for a piece of Letter-sized paper to undertake the test
(we use A4 over here) I tried it and, to my surprise, my scales failed!
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dari Sagar" <dari_sagar(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
William,
Count me in ....if the weather holds.
Regards,
Dari
>From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 07:05:45 -0000
>
>
>
>Dear All,
>
>THURSDAY is still looking good for SLEAP. I will only change it if the
>weather slot moves Please give me an idea who is going to attend for the
>catering request.
>
>Regards,
>
>William
>
>
Find a cheaper internet access deal - choose one to suit you.
http://www.msn.co.uk/internetaccess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | XS Fuel System Mods. |
Mike,
Your mod paperwork should be with you by now - let me know if any questions!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Subject: Re: Europa-List: XS Fuel System Mods.
Jeremy,
My sight guage will be fed from the same line as shown in the manual.
The factory fuel drain mod has the guage T'd iinto the port drain line which
gets its supply from a separate pipe within the tank so air cannot be sucked
in.
Incidentally, any chance of you letting me have a copy of your mod
submission for the pip pin covers?
Regards
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
No, no. You're fine at 0.1g resolution. The issue is that if the
resin/hardener being weighed is added very slowly, it ignores the increase!
Ron published a test where you weigh a piece of paper, then tear it up and
add a small piece at a time, waiting time between adds. It takes some time
to do right, but with my faulty scales I managed to add every piece with the
scales still reading 0.0g. Removing all the pieces in one go then showed
minus 4.6g. If they were added quickly, no problem. But the more care you
take and the slower you go, the more the bug in the scales' logic gets you.
I must get around to getting my money back for the faulty scales...
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Sweeting
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Faulty scales
Hi Jez,
Very intresting - especially as I decided to purchase the My-weigh i500 with
500g capacity and .1g resoution, but its out of stock at right on scales
http://www.rightonscales.co.uk/i500.htm, probably cos its 20 cheaper here
at 55 than elsewhere .
So therefore are you inferring that 0.1g is too low a resolution or
specifically the mechanism of the scales is at fault, i.e some scales react
this way whilst others do not??
Don't tell me to be assured of the correct accuracy, a balance with a lot
higher resolution at a lot more cost is required...
Cheers
Paul..
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Davey [mailto:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty scales
You may remember a thread some weeks ago started by Ron Parigoris about
problems with digital scales that ignored any very small, very slow
increments in weight? His test involved weighing a piece of Letter paper,
then tearing it up and reweighing it, putting the pieces on very slowly.
After a long search for a piece of Letter-sized paper to undertake the test
(we use A4 over here) I tried it and, to my surprise, my scales failed!
Now this was potentially a serious problem. I measure Ampreg 20 by weighing
a pre-decided weight of resin, then adding hardener with a syringe, slowing
to a drop at a time at the end. I'd often found that the last 0.5g or so (my
scales have 1 decimal place) took a lot more drops of hardener than
expected. Now I knew why!
Fortunately for me I had discovered a few days previously that a friend in
the village is a representative for a well-known laboratory scales company.
I'd had problems reading my scales from some angles ever since I tried to
wipe off some drops of resin/hardener with an acetone-soaked piece of paper
towel (D'oh!!) and got a semi-opaque screen. He'd offered me a redundant
sample from his large stock.
With my new scales, the sort that have a spirit bubble and are accurate to
0.001g, I found that a drop of hardener weighs 0.03 to 0.05g. So what was
the worst-case scenario? My best guess was that in the worst cases I'd added
10 extra drops, making the mix with 0.5g excess hardener at most. The
smallest mixes I'd made were 40.0g resin + 10.0g hardener in order to keep
the proportions within the accuracy (!!) of the scales. So these cases could
be up to 5% excess hardener.
I checked with a number of people for an opinion: my inspector, the Europa
Factory, Dr. Bill Brooks of Scrapheap Challenge and Pegasus Aviation fame (a
top bloke!). No-one knew for sure if I'd have a problem - and so far I'd
done the tail, ailerons, flaps, XS wings and Cockpit module. I didn't want
to ask SP Systems because I feared the litigation-aware response of 'if the
ratio is wrong, you must redo everything'.
Bill's suggestion was to call SP Systems, and he did have a point, so I rang
Martin Armstrong in their product support (who I knew was excellent from
previous experience with another question). To cut a long story short,
Martin suggested the eminently practical idea of making up a deliberately
worst-case-scenario batch of epoxy using my old scales and usual technique,
cure it for three days, then send it to them for testing.
The results were most interesting, and I'm in the clear - the sample was
strong enough (PLEASE DO NOT TREAT THIS AS AN EXCUSE TO BE LESS METICULOUS
IN YOUR EPOXY RATIOS!!). Strangely enough the sample gave indications of
being cured at 50C - I hadn't done this (I heat the workshop to a consistent
22-24C) so I assume the striking postal workers must have left it over their
brazier for a few days.
I wanted to tell this story in order to encourage people to check their
scales for the issue, and also to publicly thank SP Systems for the high
quality of their product support. I was a very worried chap for a while.
Once again I am glad I chose the kit I did, and that the various suppliers
of parts are fully behind their products.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the
intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments
is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message.
Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to
contract.
ntl Group Limited
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
No - to do this right you should remove item, add or subtract, then replace.
That should circumvent the problem, if you have it, but it will take more
time. I was just lucky getting a free set of 0.001g accuracy scales as a
replacement. No need identified there to take the long-winded process of
removal and replacement.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Sweeting
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Faulty scales
But do now recall in my chemistry days being taught to always take the item
off and then place back on the balance after addition or subtraction..
So the correct method to overcome this would be to add a drop or two, then
take cup off balance and place back on, before adding more??
Cheers
Paul..
p.s surely you mean ISO A4 not A4..... i.e 297mm X 210mm not 11.?" x 8.?"
- how do I know the difference, lots of very expensive pre-printed cheques
that didnt quite line up........
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Davey [mailto:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com]
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty scales
You may remember a thread some weeks ago started by Ron Parigoris about
problems with digital scales that ignored any very small, very slow
increments in weight? His test involved weighing a piece of Letter paper,
then tearing it up and reweighing it, putting the pieces on very slowly.
After a long search for a piece of Letter-sized paper to undertake the test
(we use A4 over here) I tried it and, to my surprise, my scales failed!
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the
intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments
is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message.
Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to
contract.
ntl Group Limited
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Hello All,
Weather is still looking OK for Thursday and Friday is looking OK for a
fall-back if necessary. Four Europas comming so far (not including those
based at Sleap). Any advance on four?
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | UK Weekday Fly-in |
Morning William
Subject to the met being ok, I will be there Thursday. Can't do Friday.
Pete Lawless
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
Hello All,
Weather is still looking OK for Thursday and Friday is looking OK for a
fall-back if necessary. Four Europas comming so far (not including those
based at Sleap). Any advance on four?
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moore, Dave" <Dave.Moore(at)lr.org> |
Thank you Jeremy, thank you Ron, for bringing the problem of "sticking"
scales to our attention. I, too, have found it happening with my Ohaus
CS200 digital scales.
A tip for getting around it, when adding resin / hardener with syringes,
is to tap the rim of the cup gently with the tube on the syringe as you
get to the last few drops stage. It seems to 'un-stick' the scales.
I now have a routine for adding the last few tenths of a gram of
hardener or resin, of: 'drop' - 'tap' - 'drop' - 'tap' .........
Dave Moore
Monowheel #550
Just starting...
Aberdeen, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up untill i
found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A. Im
not so sure anymore.
Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i can
understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with composite
materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt heard
of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller, more
modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption, the
aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum still
though.
One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel is
rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many prop-strikes?
Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see how
comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miles McCallum" <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
> Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
heard
> of the europa till just a few days ago.
1000 kits now sold (Peter Kember, who had the 1st customer built one flying,
is the purchaser...) in rather less time than RV took to sell 1000...
________________________________________________________________________________
I, too, considered building an RV but elected to build a Europa instead for
several reasons, the two primary reasons being 1) it is NOT made of
aluminum, and 2) it is far more efficient. Having begun my engineering
career in the aluminum industry as a process engineer I know a few things
about the properties of aluminum, and having rented numerous aluminum
airplanes I've seen entirely too much corrosion (and this is in the
relatively benign southern California climate) to make me comfortable owning
a large expensive piece of aluminum that really wants to revert to aluminum
oxide. Toss in the much more efficient design of the Europa and the
decision, for me at least, was a no-brainer.
In my (not so) humble opinion, aluminum for aircraft will soon go the way of
wood for small boats, in each case being supplanted by composites, because
of the superior properties of composites. Even Boeing's next generation
will be mostly "plastic."
Another consideration for those of us building at home in residential areas
is noise. Were I to attempt to rivet in my garage I would soon have both
the homeowners association and the local police paying me a visit (and not
to admire my project either).
All foam is hot-wire cut and delivered ready to cover with epoxy-glass with
minimal preparation, so very little foam shaping is required, and what
little there is can be avoided by choosing the factory's "accelerated"
options.
Before you make your decision check out these sites: Tony Krzyzewski's
"build log" at http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/index.html and the CAFE
Foundation's report on the Europa at
http://www.sonic.net/cafeweb/aprs/Europa%20APR.pdf for an unbiased analysis
of the aircraft's performance. The factory's web site
(http://www.europa-aircraft.com/) has links to many other useful sites.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up untill
i
found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A. Im
not so sure anymore.
Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
can
understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
composite
materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
heard
of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller, more
modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
the
aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
still
though.
One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
is
rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
prop-strikes?
Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
how
comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Hello All,
I am sufficiently confident about the forecast for Thursday to confirm the
fly-in to Sleap for that day. I have arranged for the resturant to be open
and I am assured we will be made most welcome. I suggest we try to arrive
at 12.00hrs. I may not be the first to arrive, because I have a dental
appointment at 09.40, so I will do my best. I have had a request for pilots
to telephone the tower 01939232882 or radio 122.45 for joining instructions,
because they have set procedures. I think it is to do with Shawbury MATZ
rules. Shawbury tend to keep you on their frequency (120.77) until quite
late, so it is best to call Sleap first (if you haven't already telephoned )
before going to Shawbury prior to entering their zone.
Have a pleasant flight and I look forward to seeing you all tomorrow,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
Apologies form the start for raising this one again, however. For those out there
who are using the Control Vision EXPbus, what is your understanding of the
OV protection it is supposed to offer. Even in the sample wiring diagram for
a Rotax installation on their web site it appears to be merely controling an alternator
field circuit which clearly cannot be appropriate to the Rotax fixed
magnet generator. The company themselves have been unable to shed any further
light on the situation. Before I revert to plan A - switches wires and CB's
has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
Dave,
I was doing that with mine and still had the problem! If you're
paranoid/ultra-cautious you may just want to check that technique on your
scales using Ron's torn-sheet-of-paper test. Let me have a snail-mail
address if you need a sheet of Letter - I've still got a bunch left over.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Moore, Dave
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty scales
Thank you Jeremy, thank you Ron, for bringing the problem of "sticking"
scales to our attention. I, too, have found it happening with my Ohaus
CS200 digital scales.
A tip for getting around it, when adding resin / hardener with syringes,
is to tap the rim of the cup gently with the tube on the syringe as you
get to the last few drops stage. It seems to 'un-stick' the scales.
I now have a routine for adding the last few tenths of a gram of
hardener or resin, of: 'drop' - 'tap' - 'drop' - 'tap' .........
Dave Moore
Monowheel #550
Just starting...
Aberdeen, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
Rob covers it all really - I, too, considered the RV on my list, among
others, and chose the Europa. One other factor against the RV for me was
that I felt that it was just homebuilding the same sort of plane as I hired
at the time - PA28, etc. If I wanted a 'tin' plane with a thirsty engine
designed before the Mk 1 Ford Cortina, I'd have bought a second-hand
Warrior. I'm not saying tin is wrong, it just wasn't right for me.
As for the composite work, I want to reiterate the noise (or lack of!)
issue. Also, I really enjoy working with the composites. I got huge pleasure
from doing the best job I could with the tail kit even though I started with
no experience.
Enjoy your choosing. Enjoy building your choice more. Enjoy flying it most!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Subject: RE: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
I, too, considered building an RV but elected to build a Europa instead for
several reasons, the two primary reasons being 1) it is NOT made of
aluminum, and 2) it is far more efficient. Having begun my engineering
career in the aluminum industry as a process engineer I know a few things
about the properties of aluminum, and having rented numerous aluminum
airplanes I've seen entirely too much corrosion (and this is in the
relatively benign southern California climate) to make me comfortable owning
a large expensive piece of aluminum that really wants to revert to aluminum
oxide. Toss in the much more efficient design of the Europa and the
decision, for me at least, was a no-brainer.
In my (not so) humble opinion, aluminum for aircraft will soon go the way of
wood for small boats, in each case being supplanted by composites, because
of the superior properties of composites. Even Boeing's next generation
will be mostly "plastic."
Another consideration for those of us building at home in residential areas
is noise. Were I to attempt to rivet in my garage I would soon have both
the homeowners association and the local police paying me a visit (and not
to admire my project either).
All foam is hot-wire cut and delivered ready to cover with epoxy-glass with
minimal preparation, so very little foam shaping is required, and what
little there is can be avoided by choosing the factory's "accelerated"
options.
Before you make your decision check out these sites: Tony Krzyzewski's
"build log" at http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/index.html and the CAFE
Foundation's report on the Europa at
http://www.sonic.net/cafeweb/aprs/Europa%20APR.pdf for an unbiased analysis
of the aircraft's performance. The factory's web site
(http://www.europa-aircraft.com/) has links to many other useful sites.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up untill
i
found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A. Im
not so sure anymore.
Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
can
understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
composite
materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
heard
of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller, more
modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
the
aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
still
though.
One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
is
rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
prop-strikes?
Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
how
comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Fogg" <bcfogg(at)onetel.net.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
William
Aeroplane not finished yet, tried running down the road with arms and ears
flapping but unable to reach V1 so I will drive instead. See you there.(
weather permitting )
Regards Brian Fogg ( 385 )
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>
> Hello All,
> Weather is still looking OK for Thursday and Friday is looking OK for a
> fall-back if necessary. Four Europas comming so far (not including those
> based at Sleap). Any advance on four?
> Best wishes,
> William
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Fogg" <bcfogg(at)onetel.net.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Accessories |
Hello Tim
I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
photo, how do I pay ?
Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
> Europa Builders.
>
> Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
> Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
> builders may be interested in.
> Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
> 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
> Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> following cars!
> 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing that
> some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
>
> Please email me if you are interested.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
> --
> Timothy P Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch,
> NEW ZEALAND
>
> Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> Mobile 025 2649325
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
I also cdnsidered an RV. I choose the Europa for several reasons.
The entire fire wall forward kit is less than a lyc.
It burns less fuel
I can put it on trailer and bring it home, this saves $500/mo in my area
I couldn't see myself driving all those rivets.
I can add sail plane wings later if I wish.
No jigs required, the RV might, but not sure.
Almost everything can be done alone.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
> Rob covers it all really - I, too, considered the RV on my list, among
> others, and chose the Europa. One other factor against the RV for me was
> that I felt that it was just homebuilding the same sort of plane as I
hired
> at the time - PA28, etc. If I wanted a 'tin' plane with a thirsty engine
> designed before the Mk 1 Ford Cortina, I'd have bought a second-hand
> Warrior. I'm not saying tin is wrong, it just wasn't right for me.
>
> As for the composite work, I want to reiterate the noise (or lack of!)
> issue. Also, I really enjoy working with the composites. I got huge
pleasure
> from doing the best job I could with the tail kit even though I started
with
> no experience.
>
> Enjoy your choosing. Enjoy building your choice more. Enjoy flying it
most!
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
>
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
> CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding
off
> while I do a load of small jobs first
> 1100 build hours to date
>
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
>
> I, too, considered building an RV but elected to build a Europa instead
for
> several reasons, the two primary reasons being 1) it is NOT made of
> aluminum, and 2) it is far more efficient. Having begun my engineering
> career in the aluminum industry as a process engineer I know a few things
> about the properties of aluminum, and having rented numerous aluminum
> airplanes I've seen entirely too much corrosion (and this is in the
> relatively benign southern California climate) to make me comfortable
owning
> a large expensive piece of aluminum that really wants to revert to
aluminum
> oxide. Toss in the much more efficient design of the Europa and the
> decision, for me at least, was a no-brainer.
>
> In my (not so) humble opinion, aluminum for aircraft will soon go the way
of
> wood for small boats, in each case being supplanted by composites, because
> of the superior properties of composites. Even Boeing's next generation
> will be mostly "plastic."
>
> Another consideration for those of us building at home in residential
areas
> is noise. Were I to attempt to rivet in my garage I would soon have both
> the homeowners association and the local police paying me a visit (and not
> to admire my project either).
>
> All foam is hot-wire cut and delivered ready to cover with epoxy-glass
with
> minimal preparation, so very little foam shaping is required, and what
> little there is can be avoided by choosing the factory's "accelerated"
> options.
>
> Before you make your decision check out these sites: Tony Krzyzewski's
> "build log" at http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/index.html and the CAFE
> Foundation's report on the Europa at
> http://www.sonic.net/cafeweb/aprs/Europa%20APR.pdf for an unbiased
analysis
> of the aircraft's performance. The factory's web site
> (http://www.europa-aircraft.com/) has links to many other useful sites.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
>
> Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
>
> Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up
untill
> i
> found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A.
Im
> not so sure anymore.
>
> Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
> can
> understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
> composite
> materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
>
> Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
> heard
> of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
> anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
>
> Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller,
more
> modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
> the
> aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
> still
> though.
>
> One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
> is
> rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
> prop-strikes?
>
> Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
> how
> comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
>
> thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
>
> -guil
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
Before spending big bucks for the ExpBus check out
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/expbusad.html
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul stewart
Subject: Europa-List: OV protection
Apologies form the start for raising this one again, however. For those out
there who are using the Control Vision EXPbus, what is your understanding of
the OV protection it is supposed to offer. Even in the sample wiring diagram
for a Rotax installation on their web site it appears to be merely
controling an alternator field circuit which clearly cannot be appropriate
to the Rotax fixed magnet generator. The company themselves have been unable
to shed any further light on the situation. Before I revert to plan A -
switches wires and CB's has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 11/26/03 2:09 PM, paul stewart at paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net wrote:
>
> Apologies form the start for raising this one again, however. For those out
> there who are using the Control Vision EXPbus, what is your understanding of
> the OV protection it is supposed to offer. Even in the sample wiring diagram
> for a Rotax installation on their web site it appears to be merely controling
> an alternator field circuit which clearly cannot be appropriate to the Rotax
> fixed magnet generator. The company themselves have been unable to shed any
> further light on the situation. Before I revert to plan A - switches wires and
> CB's has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul,
I have heard bad things about the EXP bus from a lot of highly experienced
people I don't want to name on this forum. However I have heard very good
things from the same people about the power panel right above it in ACS
catalog. Part # 11-675 or 11680. These are put out by composite design out
of Florida. Thinking of going that way myself.
Jeff
A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
Don't underestimate the importance of the sail wings (motor glider wings). If
you ever lose your medical you can still fly a motorglider without one...and the
motorglider is darn near as fast as the regular Europa XS!
Once you get a ride in a Europa you'll be hooked...they are rock solid steady.
Also you'll have a truly unique plane...unlike the RV's which seem to be everywhere.
If you get to Los Angeles area look me up... mine is ready for test flying and
I only await FAA (DAR) approval.
Paul Boulet, Malibu, CA N914PB
John & Amy Eckel wrote:
I also cdnsidered an RV. I choose the Europa for several reasons.
The entire fire wall forward kit is less than a lyc.
It burns less fuel
I can put it on trailer and bring it home, this saves $500/mo in my area
I couldn't see myself driving all those rivets.
I can add sail plane wings later if I wish.
No jigs required, the RV might, but not sure.
Almost everything can be done alone.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey"
Subject: RE: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
> Rob covers it all really - I, too, considered the RV on my list, among
> others, and chose the Europa. One other factor against the RV for me was
> that I felt that it was just homebuilding the same sort of plane as I
hired
> at the time - PA28, etc. If I wanted a 'tin' plane with a thirsty engine
> designed before the Mk 1 Ford Cortina, I'd have bought a second-hand
> Warrior. I'm not saying tin is wrong, it just wasn't right for me.
>
> As for the composite work, I want to reiterate the noise (or lack of!)
> issue. Also, I really enjoy working with the composites. I got huge
pleasure
> from doing the best job I could with the tail kit even though I started
with
> no experience.
>
> Enjoy your choosing. Enjoy building your choice more. Enjoy flying it
most!
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
>
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
> CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding
off
> while I do a load of small jobs first
> 1100 build hours to date
>
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Housman
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
>
> I, too, considered building an RV but elected to build a Europa instead
for
> several reasons, the two primary reasons being 1) it is NOT made of
> aluminum, and 2) it is far more efficient. Having begun my engineering
> career in the aluminum industry as a process engineer I know a few things
> about the properties of aluminum, and having rented numerous aluminum
> airplanes I've seen entirely too much corrosion (and this is in the
> relatively benign southern California climate) to make me comfortable
owning
> a large expensive piece of aluminum that really wants to revert to
aluminum
> oxide. Toss in the much more efficient design of the Europa and the
> decision, for me at least, was a no-brainer.
>
> In my (not so) humble opinion, aluminum for aircraft will soon go the way
of
> wood for small boats, in each case being supplanted by composites, because
> of the superior properties of composites. Even Boeing's next generation
> will be mostly "plastic."
>
> Another consideration for those of us building at home in residential
areas
> is noise. Were I to attempt to rivet in my garage I would soon have both
> the homeowners association and the local police paying me a visit (and not
> to admire my project either).
>
> All foam is hot-wire cut and delivered ready to cover with epoxy-glass
with
> minimal preparation, so very little foam shaping is required, and what
> little there is can be avoided by choosing the factory's "accelerated"
> options.
>
> Before you make your decision check out these sites: Tony Krzyzewski's
> "build log" at http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/index.html and the CAFE
> Foundation's report on the Europa at
> http://www.sonic.net/cafeweb/aprs/Europa%20APR.pdf for an unbiased
analysis
> of the aircraft's performance. The factory's web site
> (http://www.europa-aircraft.com/) has links to many other useful sites.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
>
> Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
>
> Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up
untill
> i
> found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A.
Im
> not so sure anymore.
>
> Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
> can
> understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
> composite
> materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
>
> Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
> heard
> of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
> anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
>
> Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller,
more
> modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
> the
> aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
> still
> though.
>
> One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
> is
> rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
> prop-strikes?
>
> Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
> how
> comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
>
> thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
>
> -guil
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Accessories |
Brian,
Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I will
email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
Cheers,
Tim
Brian Fogg wrote:
>
> Hello Tim
>
> I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
> photo, how do I pay ?
>
> Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
> >
> > Europa Builders.
> >
> > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
> > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
> > builders may be interested in.
> > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
> > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
> > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> > following cars!
> > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing that
> > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
> >
> > Please email me if you are interested.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Tim
> > --
> > Timothy P Ward
> > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > Fendalton,
> > Christchurch,
> > NEW ZEALAND
> >
> > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > Mobile 025 2649325
> >
> >
>
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 3 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV or Europa |
Let me start with THANKS! ive received boatloads of good responses and comments.
This has clearly solved my problems with lack of community/support versus the
RV :)
please keep sending me thoughts if you have something to say, im still
interested in hearing what others have to say.
I've pretty much decided on going for the Europa, ill probably be going to one
of the builders starter things as soon as i do some more research and take a
demo ride with someone.
Couple of questions:
-what kind of engines are people using out there? the rotax seems nice, but VERY
expensive... jabiru seems nice, i need to do more research...
-cs prop? is it really worth it? never flown a CS, the idea seems interesting,
but im not sure its really $4k interesting :)
-what kind of fuel consumption/cruise speed/range are people getting on what
engines? the numbers on the factory page seem too good to be true...
-composite/foam... like in a surf board?
-how messy/touchy is working with this? ive never done anything with composites
or fiberglass or anything like that...
-how does it take rain or temperature changes? the DIamond Air composite planes
cant fly if its too hot out... or something like that :)
thanks again,
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
A couple of quick questions... (more of them :) )
can i get the builders manual from the factory before buying the kit? their
website is pretty bad when it comes to details :)
what kind of mods have people done?
thx,
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Before you make your decision check out these sites: Tony Krzyzewski's
"build log" at http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/index.html
... But please realise that Tony built a 'Classic' Europa with wet layup
everything, had done numerous mods and is also busy running a company at
the same time. As a result his is a rather slow build. He's confident
that he could build an XS kit from scratch in about 18 months (if he got
enough break from work).
Regards
Tony Krzyzewski :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV or Europa |
In a message dated 11/26/2003 4:39:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
flight(at)metathusalan.com writes:
> -how messy/touchy is working with this? ive never done anything with
> composites
> or fiberglass or anything like that...
>
One word of advise form me regarding working with epoxy. Treat it as if
poison and use proper breathing protection and skin protection. Treat it as
hazardous for at least two days after lay-up is cured. This if from a person who
has
developed a reaction to it in the form of headaches. I didn't get them for
about 5 months into the project. I wish I had taken the precautions I how take.
you can't really smell the stuff and you won't know you have a problem unit it
is too late.
As for ease of use - it is very easy to work with.
Dave
A227 Mini U2
Flight time now 131 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Quick question.......any builders in the Las Vegas area? Gonna be in town
towards the end of December and would appreciate some information.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Cockpit module installed, tailplane torque tube in place, landing gear frame
installed, still awaiting replacement bolts from the UK in order to assemble
my pitch torque tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Fogg" <bcfogg(at)onetel.net.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Accessories |
Hi Tim
I live near Manchester (EGCC) and was due to be near the south coast over
that weekend doing some 727 Sim work but that has been postponed for a
couple of weeks so, could you post it when you get here? Give me a call on
01477 535167 and I will call you back and have a chat if you wish.
My address is: 35 Woodlands Drive
Goostrey
Cheshire
CW4 8JH
Is payment in Stirling OK or would you prefer some other system?
Regards
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
> Brian,
> Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
> Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
> Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I will
> email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> Brian Fogg wrote:
>
> >
> > Hello Tim
> >
> > I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
> > photo, how do I pay ?
> >
> > Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> > To:
> > Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
> >
> > >
> > > Europa Builders.
> > >
> > > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
> > > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> > > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
> > > builders may be interested in.
> > > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> > > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> > > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
> > > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> > > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> > > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
> > > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> > > following cars!
> > > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> > > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing
that
> > > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
> > >
> > > Please email me if you are interested.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Tim
> > > --
> > > Timothy P Ward
> > > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > > Fendalton,
> > > Christchurch,
> > > NEW ZEALAND
> > >
> > > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > > Mobile 025 2649325
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> Timothy P Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch,
> NEW ZEALAND
>
> Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> Mobile 025 2649325
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
Guil Barros wrote :
> can i get the builders manual from the factory before buying the kit?
their
> website is pretty bad when it comes to details :)
Guil,
As far as I know manuals are available from Europa. Maybe the price would
be refundable on purchase of a kit........suggest you check this out. I am
sure the Europa manual would be as good as if not better than any other kit
available.
Rather than purchase a manual, I think a better idea would be to find a
Europa builder and sit in on some work being carried out..... you could
check out the manual at the same time. Seeing a bit of glass work being
done will rid you of any fears you may have of working with glass. Believe
me, you could not be more apprehensive than I was before I started and now
when I look back I cannot help wondering what the hell I was worried about.
> what kind of mods have people done?
Too many to list here. Try searching the archives of this list for a bit of
an idea. I think doing mods is the bane of 98% of builders but we all have
to put our mark of individuality on our aircraft and I must admit being
guilty of this too. I would probably be flying if I wasn't!
As with everything in life, there are many choices available and in deciding
what to build you will always have to trade off one thing for another. If
you decide to go the same way as we have, (and it would be good if you do)
I'm sure you will not be disappointed.
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Europa Club website problems continue |
Sorry to all those who've been trying to to get in to the
members-only section of the Europa Club website.
Our efforts to get Aviators Network to fix what went wrong have so
far produced no fruit.
I'll post news when we get them to fix it (or when we move to another host!).
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (660 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Accessories |
Brian,
Payment in Sterling is OK. Will give you a phone when in Londontown. Many
thanks, Tim
Brian Fogg wrote:
>
> Hi Tim
>
> I live near Manchester (EGCC) and was due to be near the south coast over
> that weekend doing some 727 Sim work but that has been postponed for a
> couple of weeks so, could you post it when you get here? Give me a call on
> 01477 535167 and I will call you back and have a chat if you wish.
> My address is: 35 Woodlands Drive
> Goostrey
> Cheshire
> CW4 8JH
> Is payment in Stirling OK or would you prefer some other system?
>
> Regards
> Brian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
> >
> > Brian,
> > Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
> > Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
> > Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I will
> > email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
> > Cheers,
> > Tim
> >
> > Brian Fogg wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Hello Tim
> > >
> > > I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
> > > photo, how do I pay ?
> > >
> > > Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Europa Builders.
> > > >
> > > > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
> > > > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> > > > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
> > > > builders may be interested in.
> > > > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> > > > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> > > > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
> > > > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> > > > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> > > > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
> > > > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> > > > following cars!
> > > > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> > > > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing
> that
> > > > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
> > > >
> > > > Please email me if you are interested.
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > Tim
> > > > --
> > > > Timothy P Ward
> > > > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > > > Fendalton,
> > > > Christchurch,
> > > > NEW ZEALAND
> > > >
> > > > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > > > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > > > Mobile 025 2649325
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Timothy P Ward
> > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > Fendalton,
> > Christchurch,
> > NEW ZEALAND
> >
> > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > Mobile 025 2649325
> >
> >
>
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 3 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
Hi Guil,
I would like to offer up a few comments. I have about 25 hours of flight
time in an RV6, including a cross country trip from Milwaukee to Florida. I
only have about 2.5 hours flight time in a Europa with no cross country
time, however I can make some observations about both aircraft.
The first is the amount of room. I don't know the cockpit width of an RV6,
however it feels smaller. The Europa looks "snug", however it is more like
sitting in a car and it feels like there is more room between the pilot and
passenger.
The baggage bay in the Europa is a little larger and more accessible than
the sliding top RV. The tilt top RV would have better accessibility.
The flying qualities are different. When compared to a Cessna, the RV6 is
responsive and exciting, however some aspects are not so terrific. The
stability is neutral and while that is fun it is a pain on a long cross
country. I flew an RV6 in IMC for about 90 minutes and it was a lot of
work. I shared the work load 30 minutes about with the other pilot and I
sure glad they were there.
The Europa is delightful to fly, the controls are light and responsive,
however the aircraft has more natural stability the RV, but the biggest
difference I noticed was vibration. The all metal RV seemed to be harsher,
the airframe does not seem to have the same ability to dampen the vibrations
like the Europa. I suspect the lower RPM of the aero engine contributes to
this. After several hours this becomes very fatiguing.
The Europa has other advantages which may be important. It is very easy to
trailer and move between home and the airport. I have just brought mine
back from the paint shop and it would have been a real pain if it was a
conventional aircraft. The Europa is very economical, and runs on
automotive fuel. The cost differential in the US is significant, in Europe
is huge. Other things to contemplate are the availability of glider wings.
In the US this allows you to fly without a medical, (even IFR) and at
altitude it is possible to cruise the glider wing model 150 knots.
As far as building is concerned, I had no experience with composite
construction and the RV was my first choice based on my building abilities.
I found composite construction much easier than I thought and I have leant a
new skill. You are welcome to look at my construction diary at
http://europa363.versadev.com/. I have been at the project for 5 years,
however in that time I have moved the project 3 times, including from
Australia to the US and I have a very demanding job. The XS kit has now
evolved since I purchased mine with options such as pre constructed cockpit
modules and pre-skinned flying surfaces that literally take years of the
construction process. A build time of less than 2 years would be
achievable, even faster if you have had a lot of model aircraft construction
experience.
Good luck with your decision, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guil Barros" <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
> Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
>
> Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up
untill i
> found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A.
Im
> not so sure anymore.
>
> Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
can
> understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
composite
> materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
>
> Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
heard
> of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
> anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
>
> Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller,
more
> modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
the
> aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
still
> though.
>
> One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
is
> rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
prop-strikes?
>
> Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
how
> comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
>
> thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
>
> -guil
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DeeBickel" <deebickel(at)wol.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Accessories |
Hi Brian,
This is a long shot, are you the Brian who was a member of 120 Squadron ATC
in Hendon a few years back?
I was too and now live in South Africa, 3/4 of the way through building Mono
kit 521.
Regards,
Richard. ( was called Dick back then!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Fogg" <bcfogg(at)onetel.net.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
> Hi Tim
>
> I live near Manchester (EGCC) and was due to be near the south coast over
> that weekend doing some 727 Sim work but that has been postponed for a
> couple of weeks so, could you post it when you get here? Give me a call on
> 01477 535167 and I will call you back and have a chat if you wish.
> My address is: 35 Woodlands Drive
> Goostrey
> Cheshire
> CW4 8JH
> Is payment in Stirling OK or would you prefer some other system?
>
> Regards
> Brian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>
>
> >
> > Brian,
> > Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
> > Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
> > Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I
will
> > email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
> > Cheers,
> > Tim
> >
> > Brian Fogg wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Hello Tim
> > >
> > > I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
> > > photo, how do I pay ?
> > >
> > > Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Europa Builders.
> > > >
> > > > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292
Monowheel
> > > > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> > > > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft
that
> > > > builders may be interested in.
> > > > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> > > > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> > > > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of
colours.
> > > > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> > > > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> > > > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and
others.
> > > > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> > > > following cars!
> > > > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> > > > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing
> that
> > > > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
> > > >
> > > > Please email me if you are interested.
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > Tim
> > > > --
> > > > Timothy P Ward
> > > > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > > > Fendalton,
> > > > Christchurch,
> > > > NEW ZEALAND
> > > >
> > > > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > > > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > > > Mobile 025 2649325
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Timothy P Ward
> > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> > Fendalton,
> > Christchurch,
> > NEW ZEALAND
> >
> > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> > Mobile 025 2649325
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
how have people fared with insuring europas in the US? are the rates reasonable?
what kind of rates have you gotten? what insurance companies?
thanks,
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
Hi! Guil.
This guy Kingsley Hurst speaks a lot of good sense about the Europa but
watch him he belongs to a culture that isn't too good at RUGBY !!!!
All in jest really. He'll probably have some sour grapes about our
cricketers, that's why we just may stop importing their wine.!!!!
He specialises in some great "knock the pommie" jokes too!
BTW see my a/c at http://www.crix.org.uk Click onto "Bob Harrison's
Europa G-PTAG " and enjoy the mods too!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300 (450 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Info or manual?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
>can i get the builders manual from the factory before buying the kit
Guil - all new members of the Europa Club receive a CD-ROM with
(among many other goodies) the airframe and firewall-forward manuals
(912 & 914) as PDFs. Theses files are also available on the
members-only section of the Europa Club website
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk> (when Aviators Network can fix the
server it's hosted on). Let me know at if
you want more info on the Europa Club.
>what kind of mods have people done?
See the Club website for some info via links to builders' own
websites. The Europa Club CD-ROM includes a listing of all known mods
by name, cross-referenced to kit number.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (660 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Bank Cheque????????? |
Tim,
Are you happy with a Westpac bank cheque made out to you in NZ dollars???
Reg
Tony Renshaw
>
>Brian,
>Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
>Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
>Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I will
>email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
>Cheers,
>Tim
>
>Brian Fogg wrote:
>
>>
>> Hello Tim
>>
>> I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
>> photo, how do I pay ?
>>
>> Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
>> To:
>> Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
>>
>> >
>> > Europa Builders.
>> >
>> > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
>> > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
>> > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
>> > builders may be interested in.
>> > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
>> > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
>> > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
>> > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
>> > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
>> > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
>> > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
>> > following cars!
>> > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
>> > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing that
>> > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
>> >
>> > Please email me if you are interested.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Tim
>> > --
>> > Timothy P Ward
>> > 12 Waiwetu Street,
>> > Fendalton,
>> > Christchurch,
>> > NEW ZEALAND
>> >
>> > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
>> > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>> > Mobile 025 2649325
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>--
>Timothy P Ward
>12 Waiwetu Street,
>Fendalton,
>Christchurch,
>NEW ZEALAND
>
>Ph. 0064 3 3515166
>email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>Mobile 025 2649325
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
>
> See the Club website for some info via links to builders' own
> websites. The Europa Club CD-ROM includes a listing of all known mods
> by name, cross-referenced to kit number.
"Those known to the UK builders." There are lots of thing we "Yanks" have
done to our Europa. I have counted 51 separate mods to my plane and I have
a couple under development yet to go. Look at www.europa-uas.com and see
under owners.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa(at)comcast.net "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>: OV protection
>
> Before I revert to plan A - switches wires and CB's
>has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer
>Paul Stewart #432
I prefer fuses to CBs. More reliable according to Nuckolls and much less
expensive. You must wire the alternator as Rotax (or Nuckolls) state. If
the EXPbus can't cope with that it will need modification IMHO
Graham
not a wiring expurt.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
paul stewart wrote:
>
> Apologies form the start for raising this one again, however. For those
> out there who are using the Control Vision EXPbus, what is your
> understanding of the OV protection it is supposed to offer. Even in
> the sample wiring diagram for a Rotax installation on their web site it
> appears to be merely controling an alternator field circuit which
> clearly cannot be appropriate to the Rotax fixed magnet generator.
> The company themselves have been unable to shed any further light
> on the situation.
Both EXPbus and aerolectric Bob diddle with the "C" line on the regulator. It therefore
does something inside the regulator to disable it. I personally wouldn't
spend that kind of money for a device made by people who can't/won't answer
a simple question.
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV or Europa |
Guil Barros wrote:
> -how messy/touchy is working with this? ive never done anything with
> composites or fiberglass or anything like that...
If you can properly construct an aluminum airframe, you can
easily do fiberglass. The converse is not necessarily true.
> -how does it take rain or temperature changes? the Diamond Air
> composite planes cant fly if its too hot out...or something
> like that :)
That's a by-product of the FAA certification process, and it's only the wing spar
temperature which is limited to 131-deg F. It's a lot cheaper to
place such a limit on it rather than prove it's no issue with engineering and
test data, in the highest possible spar temp expected in service. There are
a lot of fiberglass homebuilts flying, built from plans back to the 1970's. NTSB
accident data contains no instances yet of failure due to heat or UV degradation,
but rather only a few scattered ones involving rather idiot build errors.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
It was time to do the deed. The CO2 was on the right (starboard) and the
Halon was on the left (port). Out to the car to pull out the Die Hard. Lets
pump some amps into that nasty looking rats nest behind that clean looking
instrument panel. The list is made up, and 24 circuits need checking. Just
the thing Thanksgiving mornings are made for. Its a good thing I'm not a
typical suburban house-husband or there be some hell to pay.
The good part was that I didn't have to use the fire extinguishers as the
subject line says there was no smoke. Everything worked, I was even able to
talk to someone on the radio. One unusual anomoly was found however. Any
input from the list would be appreciated. The electric horizon gyro is
driven off of the essential electrical bus. When the alternate feed switch
is turned on the gyro runs up normally and the off flag indicator goes
away. The alternate feed is a direct connection to the battery. When the
essential bus is run through its normal feed, which is through the primary
bus through a big diode an anomoly is seen. The gyro runs up but the off
flag indicator does not go away. All other items that are on the essential
bus appear to run normally weather on primary or alternate feed. At this
point in time I am running both the primary and essential busses on the
battery. The primary bus doesn't come on line until I turn on the main
contactor. I am thinking prehaps when I am running the primary bus off of
the alternator this symptom may go away. As I said once before most of us
mechanical engineers at school didn't smoke enough dope to be allowed into
the electrical engineering wing at CSU so this stuff isn't immediately
intuitive.
Thanks,
Steve
A143
Mesa, AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
Steve Hagar wrote:
> One unusual anomoly was found however. Any
> input from the list would be appreciated. The electric horizon gyro is
> driven off of the essential electrical bus. When the alternate feed switch
> is turned on the gyro runs up normally and the off flag indicator goes
> away. The alternate feed is a direct connection to the battery. When the
> essential bus is run through its normal feed, which is through the primary
> bus through a big diode an anomoly is seen.
Sounds normal. As I recall, the flag voltage for the RC Allen's AH is greater than
for its DG too. Instrument shop lady told me normal at about 11.9V to unflag.
The diode drop is the culprit. My alternative to an essential bus is the
ability to merely switch every optional device off fwg an alternator failure.
Flag should go away with alternator online, but depending upon its volts at lower
RPMs and total load. But which may thus be unsatisfactory for a night IFR
approach....
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Hello All,
We had very good weather for yesterday's fly-in to Sleap and we were made
most welcome by the Club. The bacon butties were very tasty also. The
following members attended:-
Paddy Clarke, Dari Sagar, Jim Naylor, Tony Burbridge, Bob Harrison, Paul
Sweeting, Pete Lawless, Dave and Marion Watts all flew in and locals Mark
Burton and Brian Fogg drove in to join the fun. Apologies received from
Bryan Allsop, who was committed to spending the day searching for his balls!
Many thanks to Bryan for instigating the Fly-ins. As you all can see they
are becoming very popular.
Tony Burbridge has taken over the batten and will arrange next weeks venue.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | UK Weekday Fly-in |
Thanks for organising things William - it was a lovely day for flying.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
Hello All,
We had very good weather for yesterday's fly-in to Sleap and we were made
most welcome by the Club. The bacon butties were very tasty also. The
following members attended:-
Paddy Clarke, Dari Sagar, Jim Naylor, Tony Burbridge, Bob Harrison, Paul
Sweeting, Pete Lawless, Dave and Marion Watts all flew in and locals Mark
Burton and Brian Fogg drove in to join the fun. Apologies received from
Bryan Allsop, who was committed to spending the day searching for his balls!
Many thanks to Bryan for instigating the Fly-ins. As you all can see they
are becoming very popular.
Tony Burbridge has taken over the batten and will arrange next weeks venue.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
We had a problem earlier this week and wondered if anyone else has had the
same.
Started A/C and warmed up prior to taxi. After about 10 mins temp was
indicating 160C (30 degrees above redline). Water temps (ie: cylinder head
thermocouple) appeared to be ok so we taxied back to the stand and took
cowlings off - nothing appeared to be over hot. When engine cooled down
temps were still abnormal.
I have a spare temp sensor but before changing it wondered if these wear out
frequently or if I should be looking elsewhere. The sensor is connected to a
Grand Rapids EIS. Engine is a Rotax 912 with about 550 hours (dont know if
the sensor has been changed previously).
I seem to recall that the oil pressure senders are prone to failure which is
possibly caused by engine vibration.
It will be fairly easy to test the sender once it has been removed as it
seems to be a variable resistor of about 1k ohm at 20C falling rapidly to
about 100 ohms when heated to 100C. At least those are the readings on the
spare.
The point I am interested in is whether these sensors are prone to failure
(I have only owned the engine for the last 50 hrs).
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: OV protection
>
> >: OV protection
> >
> > Before I revert to plan A - switches wires and CB's
> >has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer
> >Paul Stewart #432
>
> I prefer fuses to CBs. More reliable according to Nuckolls and much less
> expensive. You must wire the alternator as Rotax (or Nuckolls) state. If
> the EXPbus can't cope with that it will need modification IMHO
> Graham
> not a wiring expurt.
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OV Crowbar-EXP Bus |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Fred, Rob, Jeff
Regarding the following recent comments about EXPBus and at the risk of
being flamed lets state the facts and if there are indeed names and facts.
Name them!
"I have heard bad things about the EXP bus from a lot of highly experienced
people I don't want to name on this forum. However I have heard very good
things from the same people about the power panel right above it in ACS
catalog. Part # 11-675 or 11680"
What is a bad thing?
"Before spending big bucks for the ExpBus check out
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/expbusad.html"
Big bucks - The prices are as follows:
EXPBus Unit without Switches - $299.00
EXPBus with complete Unit - Switches, Mountings, Board - $424.00
EXPBus with Complete Unit and Lighted Switches - $524.00
Plug -in Indicator Panel showing System Status - $129.00
The ACS Units are:
Homebuilders Power Panel- P/N 11-11675 - $550.000
Mini Power Panel - P/N 11-11680 - $395.000
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/powerpanels.php
These are good value too with most items for power Distribution' included as
in EXPBus.
ACS also sell EXPBus
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/expbus.php
The fact is we all have choice. The positive reasoning I used for using EXP
Bus was the concept of a centralised Electrical Distribution Module allowing
easy and less thought provoking design to the various devices needing
connection in an aircraft own built and maintained. The Crowbar Unit can be
fitted and true, the standard EXPBus Drawing doesn't cater for Permanent
Magnet Alternator. There is a Rotax Diagram for download if required which
does help. The Crowbar is an add on again of personal choice and needs to be
integrated into Circuit. Bob Nuckolls has provided enough insight and
information for it to be included albeit with some input and thoughts from
us.
http://www.expbus.com/pages/avionics_support.htm
Look for Rotax 912/914 in list.
BTW. Control Vision Main page - http://www.controlvision.com
I have used Bob Nuckolls publications throughout the wiring and also have
seen his opinion on EXPBus. He has some niggles and certainly thinks they
have marketing hype but in the main the product passes muster albeit not his
personal choice.
I have dealt with Control Vision (manufacturers) and have had good service.
In summary any decision we make on Modules or parts we use is 'subjective',
our choice and wherever possible is informed. Paul Stewart's original
question asked about EXPBus in that vain. Some responses have not met that
criteria IMHO.
My slightly agitated response is that the thread of this subject gave a
feeling of poor judgement on my part and others for choosing EXPBus. I'll
have to stand by that choice over the next few years as I start to fly next
year. But it was my choice and one I had made in an informed way based on
facts.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Panel 75% done . Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150,
Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel completion, Design and build Heater Unit.
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
> The point I am interested in is whether these sensors are prone to failure
> (I have only owned the engine for the last 50 hrs).
>
> Carl Pattinson
> G-LABS.
Yes they are. The resistance wire becomes detached at the mounting post.
After the second one failed I followed the example of Duncan McFadean and
got approval to mount the sensor on the top of the air intake. No repeat
problem as yet.
Roger Anderson G-BXTD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
Congratulations Steve, I know it was a big event for you. I agree with Fred about
the flag--check it again with a fresh battery and the alternator putting out
current, and I'll bet you won't have any problems.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
4863 E. Falcon Dr.
Mesa, AZ 85215
ph (480) 924-9750
email robertodue2002(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
An item I failed to question the first time around concerns the actuator
for the wastegate. Upon powering it up the lights blink on monmentarily and
the unit cycles through its range as advertized. Then there is a low growl
or slight hum in the actuator as if there is a constant holding torque
current in the unit. Have others seen this? My next step is to check the
cable, pehaps it isn't adjusted properly, being too tight.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
Are we talking about the same sensor. The one I am referring to is a small
bolt shaped plug which screws into the oil pump housing. There is a copper
terminal post on the top which is connected to the electrics via a spade
connector (female) - the body itself grounds to earth.. It connects to the
spade connector in a strange way which I have never really trusted (but on
this occassion is not the cause of the problem).
The only reason I ask is because I think it would be difficult to move the
sender elsewhere, unless it could be tapped into the oil tank or oil cooler
somewhere. I cant visualise what you have done with your sensor.
Have you a photo of what you have done.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
>
> > The point I am interested in is whether these sensors are prone to
failure
> > (I have only owned the engine for the last 50 hrs).
> >
> > Carl Pattinson
> > G-LABS.
>
> Yes they are. The resistance wire becomes detached at the mounting post.
> After the second one failed I followed the example of Duncan McFadean and
> got approval to mount the sensor on the top of the air intake. No repeat
> problem as yet.
> Roger Anderson G-BXTD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
Steve Hagar wrote:
> When the
> essential bus is run through its normal feed, which is through the primary
> bus through a big diode an anomaly is seen.
Just now thought you might substitute one side of a DPDT switch for the voltage-droppin'
diode, who can go Tango Uniform before a rarely-flipped, quality switch
ever will. Other side of DPDT is as assumed now wired. Energizing the essential
bus to be direct from the battery disconnects it from the primary bus.
Champagne with yesterday's holiday festivities wasn't conducive to later thinking
tech solution....
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Bunting" <paul.bunting(at)developtheweb.com> |
Hi,
Probably a silly question ... I have just purchased my electric scales
for measuring out my resin, and I am looking for syringes, can anyone in
the UK recommend a supplier or can point me in the direction of a store
where they might be sold? Also what sort of size is best?
Regards,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | "Backlash" / aileron-hinge |
Hi
During annual check I note that there are backlash ( - not sure if it's
the right word, but think you know what I mean) in my aileron hinges.
Definition: after fixing the push/pull rods the TE of the ailerons can
be moved about 2 millimeters.
Backlash in rod-ends and bellcrank are nil.
Q: have others experienced simular wear?
Regards
Gert
Gert Dalgaard Soerensen
Europa builder No. 151
Europa Classic / Rotax 914
250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Tait" <phil(at)archwise.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
Guil
I am a Europa builder of just over a year and about ready for sanding and
painting. The composite work is relatively easy once you have had some
direction from the factory.
I did originally look at the RV's but I decided based upon what I wanted to
achieve at the end of the build, which was to have a 2 seat relatively fast
very economical state of the art cheap to keep in the air plane that I could
complex hour build on and at the same time have a lot of fun.
I think that some people sometimes forget what PFA or experimental flying is
all about.
My advice to you would be to ask yourself what type of flying do you want to
do in your plane? If you want to be able to potter around at 90-100kts or
fast cruse at 130kts then the europa is a good choose.
If you want to blast around at 160kts then forget about the RV and buy a
Lancair.
Composite construction gives clean modern lines is easy to repair and no
more difficult to use that riveting.
Hope this helps you with your choice.
Regards
Phil Tait
Tri-gear builder UK#551
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guil Barros" <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
Subject: Europa-List: RV vs. Europa
>
> Let me start off by saying that im not trying to start a flame war :)
>
> Im genuinly interested in hearing peoples thoughts on the subject, up
untill i
> found out about europa kits a few days ago i was set on getting an RV-7A.
Im
> not so sure anymore.
>
> Can someone tell me a little about whats involved in building an Europa? i
can
> understand rivetting aluminum, but have never had any experience with
composite
> materials. Will i have to shape foam to make parts? wings, etc?
>
> Also, it seems that there are thousands of people with RV's, and i hadnt
heard
> of the europa till just a few days ago. Whats the community like? Is there
> anyone in arkansas who might want to give me a demo ride in one?
>
> Im really interested in the europa, i love the idea of using a smaller,
more
> modern engine (lycomings make me cringe), the fantastic fuel consumption,
the
> aestetics, etc... i guess im really comfortable with the idea of aluminum
still
> though.
>
> One other thing: i noticed that the prop-ground clearance on the monowheel
is
> rather small, what are peoples thoughts on this? are there many
prop-strikes?
>
> Right now im thinking i like the monowheel XL the most, but i need to see
how
> comfortable i would be with the taildragging, clearance :)
>
> thanks for any input you feel like giving :)
>
> -guil
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> VIkVI+zZCwAphgP+Kpz4RwZlsNxj1NgQuzxUTZbqDQrYvUJXlbbPXBPQNRidJod+
> T8pY4royICI/OHHuyhtBRz95XZoGc3MmYEbyb51WYM9XeCaphEGG5GgT9i+qve9H
> hrW5Tk069H2xA+OjpQVv0PhGchsTivL3mzwwdv6JV0MC0PJIe6M7cdEmQpA=V+/h
> -----END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK-----
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Backlash" / aileron-hinge |
Hi! Gert.
I suggest you investigate a slight gap in the mating of the two control
tranfer surfaces where they meet up on assembling the wings to the fuselage.
I have a similar problem and when I remember I stick a layer of adhesive
tape on to one of the surfaces.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Europa-List: "Backlash" / aileron-hinge
>
> Hi
> During annual check I note that there are backlash ( - not sure if it's
> the right word, but think you know what I mean) in my aileron hinges.
> Definition: after fixing the push/pull rods the TE of the ailerons can
> be moved about 2 millimeters.
> Backlash in rod-ends and bellcrank are nil.
> Q: have others experienced simular wear?
> Regards
> Gert
>
>
> Gert Dalgaard Soerensen
>
> Europa builder No. 151
> Europa Classic / Rotax 914
> 250 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Hi! Paul
I can't remember sizes but speak to the local vet he will have a range. The
very small needle like ones are not much good.
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Bunting" <paul.bunting(at)developtheweb.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Syringes
>
> Hi,
>
> Probably a silly question ... I have just purchased my electric scales
> for measuring out my resin, and I am looking for syringes, can anyone in
> the UK recommend a supplier or can point me in the direction of a store
> where they might be sold? Also what sort of size is best?
>
> Regards,
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV vs. Europa |
>
> If you want to blast around at 160kts then forget about the RV and buy a
> Lancair.
Or a Glasair...
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
Paul,
Call Vetretex on 01275 373377 - ask for Esther's replacement. Brilliant for
syringes, paper overalls, mixing cups of all sizes, 25l drums of acetone,
brushes or all widths, ...
And they deliver :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Bunting
Subject: Europa-List: Syringes
Hi,
Probably a silly question ... I have just purchased my electric scales
for measuring out my resin, and I am looking for syringes, can anyone in
the UK recommend a supplier or can point me in the direction of a store
where they might be sold? Also what sort of size is best?
Regards,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XS Fuel System Mods. |
Received with thanks Jeremy
Mike
>
> Your mod paperwork should be with you by now - let me know if any
questions!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
The Rotax installation manual provides the temperature/resistance response
curve for the VDO temp sensors. So they're easy to check.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
> We had a problem earlier this week and wondered if anyone else has had the
> same.
>
> Started A/C and warmed up prior to taxi. After about 10 mins temp was
> indicating 160C (30 degrees above redline). Water temps (ie: cylinder head
> thermocouple) appeared to be ok so we taxied back to the stand and took
> cowlings off - nothing appeared to be over hot. When engine cooled down
> temps were still abnormal.
>
> I have a spare temp sensor but before changing it wondered if these wear
out
> frequently or if I should be looking elsewhere. The sensor is connected to
a
> Grand Rapids EIS. Engine is a Rotax 912 with about 550 hours (dont know if
> the sensor has been changed previously).
>
> I seem to recall that the oil pressure senders are prone to failure which
is
> possibly caused by engine vibration.
>
> It will be fairly easy to test the sender once it has been removed as it
> seems to be a variable resistor of about 1k ohm at 20C falling rapidly to
> about 100 ohms when heated to 100C. At least those are the readings on the
> spare.
>
> The point I am interested in is whether these sensors are prone to failure
> (I have only owned the engine for the last 50 hrs).
>
> Carl Pattinson
> G-LABS.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: OV protection
>
>
>
> >
> > >: OV protection
> > >
>
> > > Before I revert to plan A - switches wires and CB's
> > >has anyone using the EXPbus any advice to offer
> > >Paul Stewart #432
> >
> > I prefer fuses to CBs. More reliable according to Nuckolls and much less
> > expensive. You must wire the alternator as Rotax (or Nuckolls) state. If
> > the EXPbus can't cope with that it will need modification IMHO
> > Graham
> > not a wiring expurt.
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
<<< No Message Collected >>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
Congratulations William! You obviously selected a good venue, and you called
a great day for the weather.
You don't need to thank me for instigating the weekday fly-ins, the fact
that people are obviously enjoying participating in them is really
satisfying in itself. Indeed I must confess to looking skyward on many
occasions on Thursday, joining you in spirit and cursing the conflict of
interest.
I shall do my very best to join in Tony Burbridge's fly-in. You have set a
new standard for him to match.
Cheers! Bryan----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>
> Hello All,
> We had very good weather for yesterday's fly-in to Sleap and we were made
> most welcome by the Club. The bacon butties were very tasty also. The
> following members attended:-
> Paddy Clarke, Dari Sagar, Jim Naylor, Tony Burbridge, Bob Harrison, Paul
> Sweeting, Pete Lawless, Dave and Marion Watts all flew in and locals Mark
> Burton and Brian Fogg drove in to join the fun. Apologies received from
> Bryan Allsop, who was committed to spending the day searching for his
balls!
> Many thanks to Bryan for instigating the Fly-ins. As you all can see they
> are becoming very popular.
> Tony Burbridge has taken over the batten and will arrange next weeks
venue.
> Best wishes,
> William
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
> Are we talking about the same sensor. The one I am referring to is a small
> bolt shaped plug which screws into the oil pump housing. There is a copper
> terminal post on the top which is connected to the electrics via a spade
> connector (female) - the body itself grounds to earth.. It connects to the
> spade connector in a strange way which I have never really trusted (but on
> this occassion is not the cause of the problem).
> The only reason I ask is because I think it would be difficult to move the
> sender elsewhere, unless it could be tapped into the oil tank or oil
cooler
> somewhere. I cant visualise what you have done with your sensor.
> Have you a photo of what you have done.
Carl,
Yes we are talking about the same thing.
The sensor is unscrewed from the engine block and is mounted on the air
intake just below the engine using a P clip. It is then re-connected
hydraulically with the engine using a flexible coupling. I used a 0.305
metre length of Speedflex (SS braided Teflon hose) with 1/8" NPT terminals -
supplied by Earl's Performance Products UK Ltd. of Silverstone (Tel.
01327858221) for 17.80p complete (Delivery Note 03097974 dated 14/10/02). I
restrained the unit in the P clip with locking wire and connected a separate
earth lead.
The Mod. Number is 10708, approval dated 29/11/02.
I have only flown 73 hours since then so the remedy is not yet
conclusive, but having taken a failed unit apart and having examined the
failure I am confident that isolating the unit from the engine vibration
will certainly reduce the risk of failure - the cost and inconvenience of
which is tiresome.
The next time I have the cowlings off I will take a photograph and send
you an e-mail direct.
Roger. G-BXTD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
>
>>
>> See the Club website for some info via links to builders' own
>> websites. The Europa Club CD-ROM includes a listing of all known mods
>> by name, cross-referenced to kit number.
>
>"Those known to the UK builders." There are lots of thing we "Yanks" have
>done to our Europa. I have counted 51 separate mods to my plane and I have
>a couple under development yet to go. Look at www.europa-uas.com and see
>under owners.
Cliff - apologies for my careless terminology, in haste to respond. I
meant of course all mods which have been brought to my attention as
Europa Club Membership Secretary. That does include quite a number of
the US builders as well as those from the Antipodes and other corners
of the circular globe. The Club tries to facilitate sharing of
information and experience among Europa people worldwide. When I get
time, I'll certainly check your website (does it show your latest
flight hours? - I have none recorded for your bird) and include your
mods in the Club database. By the way, should that URL possibly be
<http://www.europa-usa.com>?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (660 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
>I am looking for syringes, can anyone in
>the UK recommend a supplier
MarineWare in Southampton are distributors for SP Systems, and I've
found them very helpful. They do 10cc & 50cc syringes, also mixing
cups (cheaper than from Europa), rollers, brushes and most important,
peel-ply (with red tell-tales) in a wide range of widths.
Phone them on 02380 330208 for a mail-order catalogue & price list.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 e-mail
| 660 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Info or manual? |
Roland
It is fun to catch you once in a while. From over on this side of the pond,
it seems that the view of the world revolves around the Greenwich Meridian.
My Europa has flown 22 hours to date. At the present I have the plane torn
down and in the shop again. I had a bad landing and broke my Airmaster
prop. So I have decided to convert to Try Gear. (like others before me) I
should have thought my choice through in light of my limited flight
experience.
My web page is a bit sparse. Mostly just a hint of what I have done.
Thank you for keeping the Europa records and the web page organized, every
one benefits from you efforts,
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alex Kaarsberg <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
| Subject: | Re: "Backlash" / aileron-hinge |
Gert,
You have a number of push pull rods, depending on where you fix it, the
backlash,free play, slop, spil,slr (dansk ;-) ) can be in the remaining
connections btw trailing edge and fixed point, including the aileron
hinge itself. If you can put a finger f.ex. on the joint btw aileron
and pushrod and wiggle the bits youll be able to feel the play if there
is any.
Continue doing that on all connections until you have eliminated all
play within reason....
Alex, kit 529-
Wings to be closed, rudder and ribs to fit, engine and instruments to
buy and fit...paint and upholstery........and then all the little things
on the wishlist!
(Glider quality finish, magnetic fuel level indication, lots of clever
and light glass in the panel, an emergency pop out ram air generator and
a rubber band aileron trim..I will probably have to wait a few years for
the Stirling engine to be available so the 912S and VP prop is going to
drive it in the beginning )
owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>Hi
>During annual check I note that there are backlash ( - not sure if it's
>the right word, but think you know what I mean) in my aileron hinges.
>Definition: after fixing the push/pull rods the TE of the ailerons can
>be moved about 2 millimeters.
>Backlash in rod-ends and bellcrank are nil.
>Q: have others experienced simular wear?
>Regards
>Gert
>
>
>Gert Dalgaard Soerensen
>
>Europa builder No. 151
>Europa Classic / Rotax 914
>250 hours
>
>
>Esta mensagem foi verificada pelo E-mail Protegido Terra.
>Scan engine: VirusScan / Atualizado em 26/11/2003 / Verso: 1.4.1
>Proteja o seu e-mail Terra: http://www.emailprotegido.terra.com.br/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
Roger Anderson wrote:
> The sensor is unscrewed from the engine block and is mounted on the air
> intake just below the engine using a P clip. It is then re-connected
> hydraulically with the engine using a flexible coupling. I used a 0.305
> metre length of Speedflex (SS braided Teflon hose) with 1/8" NPT terminals -
Perhaps I'm missing something, but how can the oil circulate within the tubing
to give you an accurate temperature reading?
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | 25% COST SAVINGS - MIL-T-4345B Electronic Lacing Cord |
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com
I have some "Brand New" (in original packaging)
MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord, Type 2 (polyester / Hi
Temp), Finish C (synthetic Rubber or Elastomer), Size
3 (50 Lb min strength, 0.085" wide X 0.014" thick).
This Cord is used extensively by Avionic Shops to
tie individual electrical wires into bundles for their
avionic equipment.
* Least expensive way to make Wire Bundles.
* Will not cut into wires like Dental Floss
used by some Builders, as it is "flat".
* Higher Temp Rating (-73 Deg C to 177 Deg C)
than Type 1 (-55 Deg C to 121 Deg C) that is
sold by Aircraft Spruce and Chief Aircraft
for $21 per Spool + Shipping Cost
* Each Spool contains 500 yards of BLUE Cord.
(Share with other Builders)
* Excellent "KNOT" retention.
* See: www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html
for additional information.
* Selling for $16 per Spool (Blue color) -
includes shipping in the US. SUPPLIES LIMITED
If interested, E-mail me off-line at-
gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel fork Corrosion |
Gidday,
I am wondering if others have found corrosion around the welds on the new
tailwheel forks. On the inside of my fork there is significant corrosion,
and I believe I will need it rewelded to ascertain its integrity. It has
been in a plastic bucket with a lid all this time, and all other
componentry within are OK. The surface is plated or something too, whilst
the metal seems to be aluminium. When I find my magnet I will know. So, if
anyone else has had this problem I would appreciate knowing.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S or a "turboed single rotor rotary, when I am dreaming"
Instrumentation: Undecided
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
> Roger Anderson wrote:
>> The sensor is unscrewed from the engine block and is mounted on the air
>> intake just below the engine using a P clip. It is then re-connected
>> hydraulically with the engine using a flexible coupling. I used a 0.305
>> metre length of Speedflex (SS braided Teflon hose) with 1/8" NPT terminals -
>
> Perhaps I'm missing something, but how can the oil circulate within the tubing
> to give you an accurate temperature reading?
I was about to say exactly the same. Indeed if the sensor is now close to
the airstream then it will be subjected to cooling air and will underread
considerably. The mod would make sense for the oil PRESSURE sensor, but not
for the oil TEMPERATURE sensor.
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, EGSG (Stapleford)
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
Thanks for the info Roger. It definitely sounds like it is the sender (will
find out for sure tomorrow).
However, like Richard and Fred I am a little confused as your description
suggests the new arrangement means the sender is mounted in a pipe which is
a dead end which would have little or no oil circulating past it. Or is the
pipe somehow forming part of the oil circulation system.
I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return line
from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw into)
where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to bolt it
into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be less
vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank drain plug
would work.
Still, if you have an approved mod then I am sure these issues have been
carefully considered and there is no point in reinventing the wheel etc etc
!!!
Regards,
Carl
> Carl,
> Yes we are talking about the same thing.
> The sensor is unscrewed from the engine block and is mounted on the
air
> intake just below the engine using a P clip. It is then re-connected
> hydraulically with the engine using a flexible coupling. I used a 0.305
> metre length of Speedflex (SS braided Teflon hose) with 1/8" NPT
terminals -
> supplied by Earl's Performance Products UK Ltd. of Silverstone (Tel.
> 01327858221) for 17.80p complete (Delivery Note 03097974 dated 14/10/02).
I
> restrained the unit in the P clip with locking wire and connected a
separate
> earth lead.
> The Mod. Number is 10708, approval dated 29/11/02.
> I have only flown 73 hours since then so the remedy is not yet
> conclusive, but having taken a failed unit apart and having examined the
> failure I am confident that isolating the unit from the engine vibration
> will certainly reduce the risk of failure - the cost and inconvenience of
> which is tiresome.
> The next time I have the cowlings off I will take a photograph and
send
> you an e-mail direct.
> Roger. G-BXTD.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Mansfield" <m(at)nsfield.screaming.net> |
I get mine from a local stables (where my daughter rides - they use them
once only to administer Equipalazone); I just rinse them out. They are 20
ml.
I mix in the cup first, then use a syringe for fiddly applications - just
pour straight from the cup (or dab with the stirring stick) for normal
layups.
Paul M
XS Mono 383
Rudder, tailplane, wings CM goes in on Monday!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Bunting
Subject: Europa-List: Syringes
-->
Hi,
Probably a silly question ... I have just purchased my electric scales for
measuring out my resin, and I am looking for syringes, can anyone in the UK
recommend a supplier or can point me in the direction of a store where they
might be sold? Also what sort of size is best?
Regards,
Paul
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Bank Cheque????????? |
Tony,
Absolutely, no problem. Address below.
Cheers,
Tim
Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Are you happy with a Westpac bank cheque made out to you in NZ dollars???
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> >
> >Brian,
> >Many thanks for the interest in the fuel filler pipe. I will be over in
> >Londontown on the 5th 6th and 7th, so I can bring it with me then.
> >Easiest way to pay is to post a cheque to me to the address below. I will
> >email you when I have it and when I post the Pipe.
> >Cheers,
> >Tim
> >
> >Brian Fogg wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Hello Tim
> >>
> >> I'm interested in one of the fuel filler pipes they look good from the
> >> photo, how do I pay ?
> >>
> >> Regards Brian Fogg (385) UK
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
> >> To:
> >> Subject: Europa-List: Europa Accessories
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Europa Builders.
> >> >
> >> > Finally coming to the end of the project before ZK-TIM (#292 Monowheel
> >> > Classic ) hopefully takes to the air shortly.
> >> > During building I have included these accessories to my aircraft that
> >> > builders may be interested in.
> >> > Photos of these are in the attachments below.
> >> > 1. Leather Control Column Boots.
> >> > To protect the control column universal. Come in a number of colours.
> >> > 82 builders have these leather boots now.
> >> > 2. Leather Propeller Tip covers.
> >> > To protect the Propeller blade tips for the Airmaster Prop and others.
> >> > Bright colours to stop my children running into them as well as
> >> > following cars!
> >> > 3. Fuel filler pipe.
> >> > To avoid fuel fumes getting into the cockpit via the rubber hosing that
> >> > some builders have had trouble with. No welding, bent to 53 degrees.
> >> >
> >> > Please email me if you are interested.
> >> >
> >> > Cheers,
> >> > Tim
> >> > --
> >> > Timothy P Ward
> >> > 12 Waiwetu Street,
> >> > Fendalton,
> >> > Christchurch,
> >> > NEW ZEALAND
> >> >
> >> > Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> >> > email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> >> > Mobile 025 2649325
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >--
> >Timothy P Ward
> >12 Waiwetu Street,
> >Fendalton,
> >Christchurch,
> >NEW ZEALAND
> >
> >Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> >email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> >Mobile 025 2649325
> >
> >
>
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 3 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Bunting" <paul.bunting(at)developtheweb.com> |
Hi all,
I'd just like to thank all those that who responded! I now know where to
look and what size I should be looking for!
Thanks!
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Mansfield
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Syringes
-->
I get mine from a local stables (where my daughter rides - they use them
once only to administer Equipalazone); I just rinse them out. They are
20 ml.
I mix in the cup first, then use a syringe for fiddly applications -
just pour straight from the cup (or dab with the stirring stick) for
normal layups.
Paul M
XS Mono 383
Rudder, tailplane, wings CM goes in on Monday!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Bunting
Subject: Europa-List: Syringes
-->
Hi,
Probably a silly question ... I have just purchased my electric scales
for measuring out my resin, and I am looking for syringes, can anyone in
the UK recommend a supplier or can point me in the direction of a store
where they might be sold? Also what sort of size is best?
Regards,
Paul
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
Carl & Dot wrote:
> ...
> I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return line
> from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw into)
> where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to bolt it
> into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be less
> vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank drain plug
> would work.
I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return line nor
similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon the effect
of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution against any mod
which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid, or proper testing
to set a new value. So far we have one reported instance of a complete failure
only alleged due to vibration. A google search I did turns up nothing else,
nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can fail the sensor, then the
temp instrument will go blooey, so then just replace it. A significant cause
of homebuilt accidents is this type of experimentation, resulting in doing things
in ways not seen on production aircraft for presumably valid reason.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 ) |
Looks like Peterborough "Connington" might be a good bet for the next meet. It
has most things going for it, ie:-
Central location, Alternate runways, Hot food & drinks all day and another free
landing voucher.
The long range weather forecast at the moment favours Thursday / Friday, but that
can be reviewed as the week
progresses.
Watch this space.
Regards & Safe Flying.
Tony Burbidge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dari Sagar" <dari_sagar(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UK Weekday Fly-in |
William,
Thanks for organising the very enjoyable fly-out to Sleap. Hopefully I'll
see you at the next one.
Regards,
Dari
>From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: UK Weekday Fly-in
>Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 06:02:48 -0000
>
>
>
>Hello All,
>We had very good weather for yesterday's fly-in to Sleap and we were made
>most welcome by the Club. The bacon butties were very tasty also. The
>following members attended:-
>Paddy Clarke, Dari Sagar, Jim Naylor, Tony Burbridge, Bob Harrison, Paul
>Sweeting, Pete Lawless, Dave and Marion Watts all flew in and locals Mark
>Burton and Brian Fogg drove in to join the fun. Apologies received from
>Bryan Allsop, who was committed to spending the day searching for his
>balls!
>Many thanks to Bryan for instigating the Fly-ins. As you all can see they
>are becoming very popular.
>Tony Burbridge has taken over the batten and will arrange next weeks venue.
>Best wishes,
>William
>
>
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faulty Oil Temp sensor |
It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial checks
with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand Rapids
EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
abnormal.
Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to say.
Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
Carl pattinson
G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
----- Original Message -----
From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
> Carl & Dot wrote:
> > ...
> > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return
line
> > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw
into)
> > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
bolt it
> > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be
less
> > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank drain
plug
> > would work.
>
> I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return
line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon
the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution
against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid,
or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported instance
of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I did
turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can
fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on production
aircraft for presumably valid reason.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Dunn" <steve100557(at)hotmail.com> |
Could some one with the larger tail plane pip pins tell me the diameter of
the largest part of those pins ? Thanks,
Steve D.
A109
Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds, free
parking. http://shopping.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot and Static |
Hi All,
I have read where some have ended up disconnecting the static source and
using the static cockpit air for the flight instruments and it work fine if
not better. I am contemplating not even install the second line. I would be
a neater install going along the pilots side of the cockpit and save a
little weight. I wonder how many of you have disconnected yours or not
installed it.(?)
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Europa Aircraft <europa(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | EIS panel suggestions |
Hi All,
I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting guidance
for installing engine instruments.
There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below. The
EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters previously impossible
to do with analog gages.
The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our engines
are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly recommend that
for the most important engine parameters, easy to read analog gages be installed
in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are the Tachometer, hottest
CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant speed props. It is much
easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil pressure needle than to spot, or
page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light comes on there will not be
as much time left to find a place to land.
For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference between
fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in inches of mercury,
or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument manufacturer
to make a single gage that does this to save space, but don't have one yet. Rotax
recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only come in 3 1/4.
Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the monitor
fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
Hope this answers some of your questions.
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial checks
with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand Rapids
EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
abnormal.
Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to say.
Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
Carl pattinson
G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
----- Original Message -----
From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
> Carl & Dot wrote:
> > ...
> > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return
line
> > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw
into)
> > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
bolt it
> > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be
less
> > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank drain
plug
> > would work.
>
> I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return
line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon
the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution
against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid,
or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported instance
of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I did
turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can
fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on production
aircraft for presumably valid reason.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go along
as backups.
Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty good, but
i havent found anything like that...
thx,
-guil
Quoting Europa Aircraft :
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> guidance for installing engine instruments.
>
> There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below.
> The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> previously impossible to do with analog gages.
>
> The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read analog
> gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are the
> Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant
> speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil pressure
> needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light
> comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
>
> For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in inches
> of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but don't
> have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only come
> in 3 1/4.
>
> Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
>
> Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
>
> Hope this answers some of your questions.
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
>
> It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial checks
> with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
>
> It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand Rapids
> EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> abnormal.
>
> Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to say.
>
> Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
>
> Carl pattinson
> G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
>
> >
> > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > ...
> > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return
> line
> > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw
> into)
> > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> bolt it
> > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be
> less
> > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank drain
> plug
> > > would work.
> >
> > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return
> line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon
> the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution
> against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid,
> or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported instance
> of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I did
> turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can
> fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on production
> aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred F.
> >
> >
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
Guil,
Chief sells a range of gauges that are below $50.00 each. I couldn't find
them on there WEB site but they were featured on a catalogue I got the other
day. There WEB site address is http://www.chiefaircraft.com/
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guil Barros" <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>
> Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go
along
> as backups.
>
> Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty
good, but
> i havent found anything like that...
>
> thx,
> -guil
>
>
> Quoting Europa Aircraft :
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> > guidance for installing engine instruments.
> >
> > There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned
below.
> > The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> > previously impossible to do with analog gages.
> >
> > The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> > engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> > recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read
analog
> > gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are
the
> > Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for
constant
> > speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil
pressure
> > needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red
light
> > comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
> >
> > For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> > between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in i
nches
> > of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> > manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but
don't
> > have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only
come
> > in 3 1/4.
> >
> > Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> > monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
> >
> > Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
> >
> > Hope this answers some of your questions.
> >
> > John Hurst
> > Europa Aircraft
> > Lakeland, FL
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> >
> >
> > It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial
checks
> > with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
> >
> > It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
Rapids
> > EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> > abnormal.
> >
> > Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
say.
> >
> > Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
> >
> > Carl pattinson
> > G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > > ...
> > > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the
return
> > line
> > > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to
screw
> > into)
> > > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> > bolt it
> > > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would
be
> > less
> > > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank
drain
> > plug
> > > > would work.
> > >
> > > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the
return
> > line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised
upon
> > the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would
caution
> > against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still
valid,
> > or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported
instance
> > of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I
did
> > turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration
can
> > fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> > replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> > experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on
production
> > aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Fred F.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
found them under "Chief Aircraft -> Engine Instruments -> ISSPRO" and ordered a
catalog :)
has anyone used them? what do you think?
thanks!
-guil
Quoting Paul McAllister :
>
>
> Guil,
>
> Chief sells a range of gauges that are below $50.00 each. I couldn't find
> them on there WEB site but they were featured on a catalogue I got the other
> day. There WEB site address is http://www.chiefaircraft.com/
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guil Barros" <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>
>
> >
> > Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go
> along
> > as backups.
> >
> > Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty
> good, but
> > i havent found anything like that...
> >
> > thx,
> > -guil
> >
> >
> > Quoting Europa Aircraft :
> >
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> > > guidance for installing engine instruments.
> > >
> > > There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned
> below.
> > > The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> > > previously impossible to do with analog gages.
> > >
> > > The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> > > engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> > > recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read
> analog
> > > gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are
> the
> > > Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for
> constant
> > > speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil
> pressure
> > > needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red
> light
> > > comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
> > >
> > > For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> > > between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in i
> nches
> > > of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> > > manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but
> don't
> > > have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only
> come
> > > in 3 1/4.
> > >
> > > Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> > > monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
> > >
> > > Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
> > >
> > > Hope this answers some of your questions.
> > >
> > > John Hurst
> > > Europa Aircraft
> > > Lakeland, FL
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> > > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> > >
> > >
> > > It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial
> checks
> > > with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
> > >
> > > It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
> Rapids
> > > EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> > > abnormal.
> > >
> > > Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
> say.
> > >
> > > Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
> > >
> > > Carl pattinson
> > > G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > > > ...
> > > > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the
> return
> > > line
> > > > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to
> screw
> > > into)
> > > > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> > > bolt it
> > > > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would
> be
> > > less
> > > > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank
> drain
> > > plug
> > > > > would work.
> > > >
> > > > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the
> return
> > > line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised
> upon
> > > the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would
> caution
> > > against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still
> valid,
> > > or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported
> instance
> > > of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I
> did
> > > turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration
> can
> > > fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> > > replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> > > experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on
> production
> > > aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Fred F.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
sorry for the double-post, forgot to add this to previous email...
what about altimeter, airspeed, horizon, etc? any sources for good cheap ones?
thanks,
-guil
Quoting Paul McAllister :
>
>
> Guil,
>
> Chief sells a range of gauges that are below $50.00 each. I couldn't find
> them on there WEB site but they were featured on a catalogue I got the other
> day. There WEB site address is http://www.chiefaircraft.com/
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guil Barros" <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>
>
> >
> > Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go
> along
> > as backups.
> >
> > Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty
> good, but
> > i havent found anything like that...
> >
> > thx,
> > -guil
> >
> >
> > Quoting Europa Aircraft :
> >
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> > > guidance for installing engine instruments.
> > >
> > > There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned
> below.
> > > The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> > > previously impossible to do with analog gages.
> > >
> > > The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> > > engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> > > recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read
> analog
> > > gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are
> the
> > > Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for
> constant
> > > speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil
> pressure
> > > needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red
> light
> > > comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
> > >
> > > For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> > > between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in i
> nches
> > > of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> > > manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but
> don't
> > > have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only
> come
> > > in 3 1/4.
> > >
> > > Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> > > monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
> > >
> > > Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
> > >
> > > Hope this answers some of your questions.
> > >
> > > John Hurst
> > > Europa Aircraft
> > > Lakeland, FL
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> > > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> > >
> > >
> > > It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial
> checks
> > > with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
> > >
> > > It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
> Rapids
> > > EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> > > abnormal.
> > >
> > > Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
> say.
> > >
> > > Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
> > >
> > > Carl pattinson
> > > G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > > > ...
> > > > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the
> return
> > > line
> > > > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to
> screw
> > > into)
> > > > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> > > bolt it
> > > > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would
> be
> > > less
> > > > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank
> drain
> > > plug
> > > > > would work.
> > > >
> > > > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the
> return
> > > line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised
> upon
> > > the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would
> caution
> > > against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still
> valid,
> > > or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported
> instance
> > > of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I
> did
> > > turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration
> can
> > > fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> > > replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> > > experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on
> production
> > > aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Fred F.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot and Static |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
We've disconnect the wing mounted static on two aircraft and both display much
better airspeed calibration than with the wing mounted static. There was no change
in altitude calibration detected.
One aircraft is a Classic/912 (ZK-UBD) and the other is an XS/912S (ZK-RJL) and
normally operate at altitudes of less than 10000ft amsl.
The Classic/912 has standard Europa NACA air vents and an air outlet. The XS/912S
has Europa NACA air vents plus a windcreen mount photo panel and no air outlet.
The opening and closing of the vents and panel shows no variance in airspeed
or altitude indication.
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 ) |
Count me in, Tony.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 )
>
> Looks like Peterborough "Connington" might be a good bet for the next
meet. It has most things going for it, ie:-
>
> Central location, Alternate runways, Hot food & drinks all day and another
free landing voucher.
>
> The long range weather forecast at the moment favours Thursday / Friday,
but that can be reviewed as the week
> progresses.
>
> Watch this space.
>
> Regards & Safe Flying.
>
> Tony Burbidge.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot and Static |
Troy,
I have done that and it improved the ASI reading. However, I took the bung
out of the static probe and used it as a second pitot source for the
undercarriage "not down" warning when the speed falls below 70 Kts and to
start / stop the Hobbs Meter at 30Kts. Our PFA are not happy with using the
same probe / line as the ASI. A second line might come in handy one day in
the future.
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Pitot and Static
>
> Hi All,
> I have read where some have ended up disconnecting the static source and
> using the static cockpit air for the flight instruments and it work fine
if
> not better. I am contemplating not even install the second line. I would
be
> a neater install going along the pilots side of the cockpit and save a
> little weight. I wonder how many of you have disconnected yours or not
> installed it.(?)
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike toft" <watervet(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pressure Rotax 914 |
Hi All,
Am busy checking the engine for first flight and find that my fuel pressure is
exceeding the max allowed when BOTH pumps are turned on - its fine on each individual
pump and the necessary fuel flows are EASILY obtained in well under 1.5
mins (a la europa manual).
I've check the resistance in the return fuel line and even disconnecting the return
line my pressure is 0.4 bar (max allowable .35 bar) - the return fuel transducer
(JPI fuelscan 450) only adds another .05 bar, the fuel line adds another
0.05 bar and the return nipple with copper pipe for the fuel drains adds another
0.1 bar - all in all giving me 0.6 bar fuel pressure - way over the .35
recommended - has any one else had this problem ( btw the pumps are the standard
Rotax electrical pumps) - any ideas on a fix?
Mike Toft
#510 ZU CTG
Only the painting to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 ) |
Hi! Tony.
Hope to be there but I have a South Coast Friend who has a Sheffield
bereavement to attend and needing accommodation to attend to which may
clash.
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 )
>
> Looks like Peterborough "Connington" might be a good bet for the next
meet. It has most things going for it, ie:-
>
> Central location, Alternate runways, Hot food & drinks all day and another
free landing voucher.
>
> The long range weather forecast at the moment favours Thursday / Friday,
but that can be reviewed as the week
> progresses.
>
> Watch this space.
>
> Regards & Safe Flying.
>
> Tony Burbidge.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Guil
>
> found them under "Chief Aircraft -> Engine Instruments -> ISSPRO" and ordered
> a
> catalog :)
>
> has anyone used them? what do you think?
>
I have a set. They are well made and marked up to average ranges.
No Tacho suitable for Rotax though.
I didn't use the set in the end and went for the Mitchell 1.5" Gauges.
So.... I have them in boxes unused if anyone is looking to to purchase
efficiently.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 50% done . Includes Dynon EFIS,
KMD 150,
Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel completion, Design and build Heater Unit.
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 ) |
Hi! Tony.
William mentioned a free landing voucher for Sleap and you have mentioned a
voucher for Connington? Which mag. are they in ? I have my January issue
of "Today's Pilot" and they don't carry any this issue.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. ( w/c Mon. 1-12-2003 )
>
> Looks like Peterborough "Connington" might be a good bet for the next
meet. It has most things going for it, ie:-
>
> Central location, Alternate runways, Hot food & drinks all day and another
free landing voucher.
>
> The long range weather forecast at the moment favours Thursday / Friday,
but that can be reviewed as the week
> progresses.
>
> Watch this space.
>
> Regards & Safe Flying.
>
> Tony Burbidge.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand Rapids
>EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
>abnormal.
>
>Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to say.
It might be worth a phone call, It's possible the set up may have been
corrupted by very low voltage during engine start or something of that sort.
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
Suspicious of anything that could cause inaccuracies I have a measuring
and mixing procedure
that many may consider overkill - so do with it what you like.
For each cup I fill out an entry in each of the following 17 columns
(assumes 4:1 ratio):
1. purpose of batch (rudderL, uni2)
2. date (20-11-02)
3. time (20:16)
4. temperature (23.8)
5. relative humidity (41)
6. zero reading (0.0)
7. 100g reading (100.0)
8. check zero (0.0)
9. cup reading (say 12.2)
10. tare reading (0.0)
11. resin1 reading (say 45.7)
12. hardener reading (say 57.7)
13. calculated resin2 reading (60.0)
14. actual resin2 reading (say 60.1)
15. calculated zero reading (-72.3)
16. actual zero reading(-72.3)
17. result (ok)
Notes:
Point 7: I use Satrue scales 200g, 0.1g resolution, comes with a 100g
calibration weight.
Point 11 to 12: I use an "add hardener to read at least" table: 45.6
gives 57.0, 46.0 gives
57.5. etc.
Point 12 to 13: I use a household calculator ("add resin to read
exactly"): (57.7-45.7)*5Point 14 to 15: household calculator ("minus final expected
zero
reading"): 60.1+12.2Designed to achieve:
Resin first, for wetting cup walls.
Resin last to decrease pouring accuracy needed:
Hardener (point 12) within 0..+0.5g is ok.
Final resin (point 14) within -0.2..+0.2 is ok.
All the scales stability checking I could think of.
For point 16 I expect +-0.1g or better.
The measurement procedure takes about 1 minute.
Finally, I reuse my mixing stick. I wipe it at the end of a layup
session and save it for the
next time. This avoids the possible influence of absorption (in an
unwanted ratio) using new
sticks.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Scale calibration |
For anyone in the UK that has a set of scales but no calibration weights,
put your hands in your pockets!
The various coins that you will find have specific minted weights so as long
as they have not been too worn they should weigh the following:-
1p 3.56g
2p 7.12g
5p 3.25g
10p 6.50g
20p 5g
50p 8g
1 9.5g
2 12g
Regards
Simon
504 G-BZTN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
What props are people using? why did you choose that one?
im debating spending the extra $4k on the CS airmaster... ground ajustable seems
like a good compromise... im mostly going to go on long-ish distance flights
where im looking for economy. Wouldnt setting the ground-adjustable to a cruise
setting be (overall) equivalent to a CS while in cruise? would i get enough
aditional efficiency out of the CS to justify it?
what other CS props are people using? cheaper? why?
thanks,
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Scale calibration |
What about US currency? ;)
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Simon Smith
> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 10:02 AM
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Scale calibration
>
>
> For anyone in the UK that has a set of scales but no calibration weights,
> put your hands in your pockets!
>
> The various coins that you will find have specific minted weights
> so as long
> as they have not been too worn they should weigh the following:-
>
> 1p 3.56g
> 2p 7.12g
> 5p 3.25g
> 10p 6.50g
> 20p 5g
> 50p 8g
> 1 9.5g
> 2 12g
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
> 504 G-BZTN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender |
Hi Graham,
I emailed them and are waiting for a response.
I think you may be right. My current theory (and hope) is that somehow the
unit has switched from Centigrade to Farenheit without changing the over
temp limits. When I was running the engine yesterday the oil temps and CHT's
were indicating between 140 and 160 degrees and if this was a farenheit
reading that would have been ok ( the engine was not up to full operating
temp) . The only problem was that it was tripping the overtemp warning lamp.
At the time I didnt check to see if the system was set to C or F.
Normally the oil is about 105C and the CHT about 90C at normal operating
temp. This would transalate into 240 and 220 F.
Unfortunately I cant get at the engine again until wednesday.
Thanks for the hint anyway.
Regards,
Carl
PS - Are you coming to the Dinner on Saturday?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: oil temp sender
>
> >It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
Rapids
> >EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> >abnormal.
> >
> >Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
say.
>
> It might be worth a phone call, It's possible the set up may have been
> corrupted by very low voltage during engine start or something of that
sort.
> Graham
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 12/1/03 10:23 AM, Guil Barros at flight(at)metathusalan.com wrote:
>
> What props are people using? why did you choose that one?
>
> im debating spending the extra $4k on the CS airmaster... ground ajustable
> seems
> like a good compromise... im mostly going to go on long-ish distance flights
> where im looking for economy. Wouldnt setting the ground-adjustable to a
> cruise
> setting be (overall) equivalent to a CS while in cruise? would i get enough
> aditional efficiency out of the CS to justify it?
>
> what other CS props are people using? cheaper? why?
>
> thanks,
> -guil
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>
>
>
>
>
Guil,
From the time you receive your kit then spend the required time to turn it
into the beautiful flying machine it can be, and you visualize. It doesnt
matter what you decide on now as far as prop guages etc. You will change
your mind 3 or 4 times because there is always something new and cool out. I
have and am still deciding. Im putting some decisions off as I am waiting
for some new products to be released. Thats the fun of this crazy hobby
were into. You get to personalize your very own aircraft and drive yourself
crazy doing it.
Jeff
Tri Gear A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
Go for a CS prop otherwise its like driving around in third gear all the
time. You cannot afford to set a ground adjustable prop to a good cruise
pitch or you will only be able to get off the ground in cool low conditions
from a long runway. The Airmaster is a fine prop but the Kremen is very
comparable but only half the price because it is made in the low wage Czech
Republic. Mine cost $2300 complete with spinner wiring and instruments.
David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Prop?
>
> What props are people using? why did you choose that one?
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> This email has been scanned using the CleanPort MEF antivirus
> system. Funded for members by the Doctors.net.uk Bulletin service
> How does this protect me? http://www.Doctors.net.uk/qualityemail
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
For those with Airmaster props take a close look at the picture of the
Fastec Electric plane in the 30th November issue of Avflash. You'll
notice a striking similarity between the spinner on that plane and the
Europa XS spinner.
Now I wonder how that could have happened?
:)
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 12/1/03 1:07 PM, David Joyce at davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> Go for a CS prop otherwise its like driving around in third gear all the
> time. You cannot afford to set a ground adjustable prop to a good cruise
> pitch or you will only be able to get off the ground in cool low conditions
> from a long runway. The Airmaster is a fine prop but the Kremen is very
> comparable but only half the price because it is made in the low wage Czech
> Republic. Mine cost $2300 complete with spinner wiring and instruments.
> David Joyce, G-XSDJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Prop?
>
>
>>
>> What props are people using? why did you choose that one?
>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> This email has been scanned using the CleanPort MEF antivirus
>> system. Funded for members by the Doctors.net.uk Bulletin service
>> How does this protect me? http://www.Doctors.net.uk/qualityemail
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
David,
Is this Kremen prop available in the US. Do they have a website?
Jeff
A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
Hi Bob
The Connington voucher is in the Dec. Issue of "Flyer".
Look forward to seeing you.
Regards & Safe flying.
Tony.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Anti Servo TP16 installation |
Hello Gents:
Can anyone email me photos of their procedures for the Anti Servo TP16
bracket installation? I have installed the first bracket using the template and
a
level to align TP16 with the root hinge. I was amazed at the thickness of the
flox fillet needed to fill the gap between the root rib and bracket. About 1/4
inch at the leading edge tapering down to right against the rib at the rear.
Can this be right?
I would like to see how you fine folk set up your tail planes for the
installation of the second TP16 bracket. A photo would be great if posable.
Thanks so much!
Brian Skelly
Texas
XS A276.
Parts scattered all over the house.
And boy is she mad! ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
>I prefer fuses to CBs. More reliable according to Nuckolls and much less
expensive. You must wire the alternator as Rotax (or Nuckolls) state.<
No problem. However for the Crowbar OV unit Bob Nuckolls advises that a c/b
and not a fuse should be used.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot and Static |
There are quite a few Europas around with instruments running on cockpit
static, mine included.
However, the point is (and as confirmed by other replies to this thread)
they have arrived at that situation by being individually proven to work as
well or better in that configuration. This had been achieved by fitting of
the official static system in the first place.
Although I suppose it could be part of the test flying regime to demonstrate
that a predetermined cockpit-static system was working accurately across a
wide range of airspeeds; just another variable for the first flight.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Pitot and Static
>
> Hi All,
> I have read where some have ended up disconnecting the static source and
> using the static cockpit air for the flight instruments and it work fine
if
> not better. I am contemplating not even install the second line. I would
be
> a neater install going along the pilots side of the cockpit and save a
> little weight. I wonder how many of you have disconnected yours or not
> installed it.(?)
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anti Servo TP16 installation |
Brian,
That's about right. Because of the angle difference of the rib (angled out)
and the plane of movement of the end of the "T" section from the servo unit
(parrallel to the centerline) the flox pad gets pretty thick the closer you get
to the pin. And now you have to add more flox when you put on the three layers
of BID. Be careful of any interference with the trim tab's movement. Wait
until you do the second TP16 in place. Much more fun.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Cockpit module installed, tailplane torque tube in place, landing gear frame
installed, finally received replacement bolts from the UK in order to assemble
my pitch torque tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anti Servo TP16 installation |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>>> I was amazed at the thickness of the flox fillet needed to fill the
gap between the root rib and bracket. About 1/4 inch at the leading edge
tapering down to right against the rib at the rear.
Can this be right?
That's about what I have on mine.
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Gilbert" <alangilbert(at)classicfm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti Servo TP16 installation |
Sounds about right!!
Iwould be inclined to leave the second TP16 until installing tailplanes onto
the fuselage - this way any misalignment in actuating arm can be allowed for
and your trim tabs will line up perfectly - if you construct as per the
manual you will probably end up removing the TP16 later on in order to get
your tabs level! ! !
Alan Gilbert 497 - still available for sale!
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Anti Servo TP16 installation
>
> Hello Gents:
>
> Can anyone email me photos of their procedures for the Anti Servo TP16
> bracket installation? I have installed the first bracket using the
template and a
> level to align TP16 with the root hinge. I was amazed at the thickness of
the
> flox fillet needed to fill the gap between the root rib and bracket. About
1/4
> inch at the leading edge tapering down to right against the rib at the
rear.
> Can this be right?
>
> I would like to see how you fine folk set up your tail planes for the
> installation of the second TP16 bracket. A photo would be great if
posable.
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> XS A276.
> Parts scattered all over the house.
> And boy is she mad! ;)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anti Servo TP16 installation |
Some Tail plane pictures......
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/EuropaSite/Tail%20Plane/Tail%20Plane.html
A tip I got from John at Europa, only do the glass lay ups on one side. Leave
one side floxed in only if you have to move it's easy, if all line up later
add a top coat of flox and do the lay ups.
SteveD.
A217
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scales and 4:1 |
While some people may feel this is a little overkill, I think that it does
provide everyone with a good reference point. Steps 15 & 16. I like to know what
the scale should read when you remove your mix cup. It could be a mental note
to check this before turning your scale off.
Cup weight + Resin weight + Hardner weight should equal the negative value
reading of the scale when the cup with mix is removed, if you hit TARE before
removing. Any other reading would indicate a problem with the mix.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Cockpit module installed, tailplane torque tube in place, landing gear frame
installed, finally received replacement bolts from the UK in order to assemble
my pitch torque tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Europa Aircraft" <europa(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | EIS panel suggestions |
Guil,
VDO makes some nice 2" gages in this price range. They are used in multiple
applications, not just aircraft. They are called the cockpit series.
Hope this helps!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go
along
as backups.
Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty good,
but
i havent found anything like that...
thx,
-guil
Quoting Europa Aircraft :
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> guidance for installing engine instruments.
>
> There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below.
> The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> previously impossible to do with analog gages.
>
> The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read
analog
> gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are
the
> Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant
> speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil
pressure
> needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light
> comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
>
> For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in
inches
> of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but don't
> have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only
come
> in 3 1/4.
>
> Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
>
> Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
>
> Hope this answers some of your questions.
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
>
> It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial
checks
> with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
>
> It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
Rapids
> EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> abnormal.
>
> Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
say.
>
> Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
>
> Carl pattinson
> G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
>
>
> >
> > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > ...
> > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return
> line
> > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw
> into)
> > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> bolt it
> > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be
> less
> > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank
drain
> plug
> > > would work.
> >
> > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return
> line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon
> the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution
> against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid,
> or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported
instance
> of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I
did
> turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can
> fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on production
> aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred F.
> >
> >
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Paul <tom(at)tompaul.com> |
Here they are. They are now called woodcomp.
http://www.woodcomp.cz/indexe.php
Tom Paul
On 12/1/03 1:56 PM, "Jeff Roberts" wrote:
>
> on 12/1/03 1:07 PM, David Joyce at davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
>>
>> Go for a CS prop otherwise its like driving around in third gear all the
>> time. You cannot afford to set a ground adjustable prop to a good cruise
>> pitch or you will only be able to get off the ground in cool low conditions
>> from a long runway. The Airmaster is a fine prop but the Kremen is very
>> comparable but only half the price because it is made in the low wage Czech
>> Republic. Mine cost $2300 complete with spinner wiring and instruments.
>> David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: Europa-List: Prop?
>>
>>
>>>
>>> What props are people using? why did you choose that one?
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________________________________________________
>>> This email has been scanned using the CleanPort MEF antivirus
>>> system. Funded for members by the Doctors.net.uk Bulletin service
>>> How does this protect me? http://www.Doctors.net.uk/qualityemail
>>> ________________________________________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> David,
> Is this Kremen prop available in the US. Do they have a website?
> Jeff
> A258
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anti Servo TP16 installation |
I second that advice. (wate to do the second TP16)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
New Email:" flyinggpa(at)comcast.net "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Gilbert" <alangilbert(at)classicfm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Anti Servo TP16 installation
>
> Sounds about right!!
> Iwould be inclined to leave the second TP16 until installing tailplanes
onto
> the fuselage - this way any misalignment in actuating arm can be allowed
for
> and your trim tabs will line up perfectly - if you construct as per the
> manual you will probably end up removing the TP16 later on in order to get
> your tabs level! ! !
>
> Alan Gilbert 497 - still available for sale!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Anti Servo TP16 installation
>
>
> >
> > Hello Gents:
> >
> > Can anyone email me photos of their procedures for the Anti Servo TP16
> > bracket installation? I have installed the first bracket using the
> template and a
> > level to align TP16 with the root hinge. I was amazed at the thickness
of
> the
> > flox fillet needed to fill the gap between the root rib and bracket.
About
> 1/4
> > inch at the leading edge tapering down to right against the rib at the
> rear.
> > Can this be right?
> >
> > I would like to see how you fine folk set up your tail planes for the
> > installation of the second TP16 bracket. A photo would be great if
> posable.
> >
> > Thanks so much!
> >
> > Brian Skelly
> > Texas
> > XS A276.
> > Parts scattered all over the house.
> > And boy is she mad! ;)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
| Subject: | EIS panel suggestions |
Hi John,
thanks for the info, is there a good source for these i should look at?
ill be talking to you about starting on a kit in about 6 months :) Need to get
myself a garage and a demo flight first...
thx,
-guil
Quoting Europa Aircraft :
>
> Guil,
>
> VDO makes some nice 2" gages in this price range. They are used in multiple
> applications, not just aircraft. They are called the cockpit series.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guil Barros
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>
>
> Ive been looking at some EIS systems myself, and looking for guages to go
> along
> as backups.
>
> Can someone recommend good low-priced guages? $35 a pop sounds pretty good,
> but
> i havent found anything like that...
>
> thx,
> -guil
>
>
> Quoting Europa Aircraft :
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
> > guidance for installing engine instruments.
> >
> > There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below.
> > The EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
> > previously impossible to do with analog gages.
> >
> > The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
> > engines are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly
> > recommend that for the most important engine parameters, easy to read
> analog
> > gages be installed in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are
> the
> > Tachometer, hottest CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant
> > speed props. It is much easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil
> pressure
> > needle than to spot, or page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light
> > comes on there will not be as much time left to find a place to land.
> >
> > For a 914 you also need to have something that tells you the difference
> > between fuel pressure & boost pressure in the same units - ex, both in
> inches
> > of mercury, or pounds per square inch. I am working with an instrument
> > manufacturer to make a single gage that does this to save space, but don't
> > have one yet. Rotax recommends a twin MP gage for this, but they only
> come
> > in 3 1/4.
> >
> > Another reason for installing engine instruments is noted below. If the
> > monitor fails, then there is no way to tell what the engine is doing.
> >
> > Finally, these instruments are cheap, as little as $35 each.
> >
> > Hope this answers some of your questions.
> >
> > John Hurst
> > Europa Aircraft
> > Lakeland, FL
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Carl & Dot <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> >
> >
> > It turns out there is nothing wrong with the sensor although initial
> checks
> > with the ohm meter suggested this was the problem.
> >
> > It seems to be much worse. and the problem is somewhere in the Grand
> Rapids
> > EIS unit. Not only is the oil temp wrong but most other readings are now
> > abnormal.
> >
> > Guess well have to return it to Grand Rapids and see what they have to
> say.
> >
> > Pity as the annual permit is due to expire in 10 days.
> >
> > Carl pattinson
> > G-LABS (grounded for the time being)
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Faulty Oil Temp sensor
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Carl & Dot wrote:
> > > > ...
> > > > I think my preferred choice would be to mount the sender in the return
> > line
> > > > from the bottom of the crank casing (would need a metal block to screw
> > into)
> > > > where I assume it would be at its hottest. An easier fix might be to
> > bolt it
> > > > into the oil tank somewhere. This would be simpler, and there would be
> > less
> > > > vibration. Possibly a hole tapped into the centre of the oil tank
> drain
> > plug
> > > > would work.
> > >
> > > I believe Rotax is sensing cooled oil -- not the hot stuff in the return
> > line nor similar in the tank, and they set the redline temp premised upon
> > the effect of mounting in the engine block where they do. I would caution
> > against any mod which cannot verify the Rotax redline temp is still valid,
> > or proper testing to set a new value. So far we have one reported
> instance
> > of a complete failure only alleged due to vibration. A google search I
> did
> > turns up nothing else, nor is there a service bulletin. If vibration can
> > fail the sensor, then the temp instrument will go blooey, so then just
> > replace it. A significant cause of homebuilt accidents is this type of
> > experimentation, resulting in doing things in ways not seen on production
> > aircraft for presumably valid reason.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Fred F.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Scales and 4:1 |
Mike,
Your latest doesn't mention epoxy make, but suppose you are not
an Aeropoxy type like me - although the recipe difference doesn't matter
that much. Mine specifies no greater error than 1% which is not hard to come
by and permits SOME latitude.
I use ex-kodak tubs for small amounts 10-25gm and my ratio is
27hard to 100 resin, so at 0.1 gram accuracy ain't bad. But I put the empty
tub on, tare it then add resin and put aside till used (on abusy job). Then
I stick its mate on for tare, then the part-poured tub and add hardener when
needed. I figure I'm still within 1% so don't worry about the odd drop (3
drops to 0.1gm).
Don't know if this is still relevant to your discussion.
happy landings
Ferg A064
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Scales and 4:1
|
| While some people may feel this is a little overkill, I think that it does
| provide everyone with a good reference point. Steps 15 & 16. I like to
know what
| the scale should read when you remove your mix cup. It could be a mental
note
| to check this before turning your scale off.
| Cup weight + Resin weight + Hardner weight should equal the negative value
| reading of the scale when the cup with mix is removed, if you hit TARE
before
| removing. Any other reading would indicate a problem with the mix.
|
|
| Mike Duane A207
| Redding, California
| XS Conventional Gear
| Cockpit module installed, tailplane torque tube in place, landing gear
frame
| installed, finally received replacement bolts from the UK in order to
assemble
| my pitch torque tube.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | EIS panel suggestions |
<<<<<<<<<<<<
From: Europa Aircraft <europa(at)gate.net>
Subject: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
Hi All,
I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting guidance
for installing engine instruments.
There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below. The
EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters previously impossible
to do with analog gages.
The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our engines
are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly recommend that
for the most important engine parameters, easy to read analog gages be installed
in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are the Tachometer, hottest
CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant speed props. It is much
easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil pressure needle than to spot, or
page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light comes on there will not be
as much time left to find a place to land.
-------------
-------------
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi John,
With respect, I would like to express a contrary opinion regarding ease of reading
and monitoring engine conditions. I have an EIS unit and consider it to be
a key component of my panel. I would suggest that even during normal operation
and particularly when there are other items requiring attention such as joining
or flying in a busy pattern, many pilots will miss a rising temperature or
a dropping pressure on an analog gauge until it may be too late. The red "idiot
light' from any of the EIS alarm settings will get your attention immediately
and you have the ability to set the alarms at whatever levels you choose.
Before flying my plane, I thought I would need at least some key analog gauges
but I have found that I need less than I planned. For example, I put an analog
tacho on my panel. WRONG. I never look at it - the EIS is so accurate and refreshes
so quickly that the analog unit is redundant.
I consider that ease of reading on the EIS is high with items such as rpm, oil
temp and pressure, CHT, EGT, fuel pressure and fuel flow all on one 'favorite'
page. A few clicks will get you to all the other many items such as volts, OAT,
fuel remaining, endurance, etc. I suppose that part of the success of my EIS
is, of course, the reliabilty of the Rotax 912S. Both work just as advertised
and the alarms do not go off. So far, the only time the red light alarm has
operated was when I let my fuel level get low and it alarmed at my setting of
3 gallons remaining.
Analog gauges definitely have their place. For example, I do find that an analog
manifold pressure gauge is necessary to set engine power with a constant speed
prop. I also have a dual analog voltmeter/ammeter which is a useful indicator.
I have to say that I have no business connection with Grand Rapids/EIS !
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresvile, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scales and 4:1 |
Ferg,
Your seems to work for you. I just use another data point as a checksum to
catch any problem....ie scale reset, calculation error, or just a senior moment.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Cockpit module installed, tailplane torque tube in place, & landing gear
frame installed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 12/01/03 |
>- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> can not be overstated!
I extracted this from Matt's automatic posting. I notice some of the thread
replies are getting huge, so please edit the message you are replying to
before hitting the reply button. It's making my mouse fingers ache
scrolling down incessantly ?;-)
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>Scales and 4:1
>
>
>Suspicious of anything that could cause inaccuracies I have a measuring
>and mixing procedure
>that many may consider overkill -
When I built my Long EZ I used the Rutan home made balance. I saved the
paper cups from every mix, wrote on the date, component , humidity and
temperature. Then I typed out a label with the same info and epoxied it
onto the part.
20 years later I still get a slight buzz of confidence when I notice those
labels each time I derig the airplane. (which is still not quite ready to
fly again {{:-(
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
| Subject: | Scales and 4:1 (2) |
Indulging in resending, the original got mangled.
And I indeed forgot to mention the procedure assumes hitting tare before removing
the measured
cup.
Suspicious of anything that could cause inaccuracies I have a measuring and mixing
procedure
that many will probably consider overkill - do with it as you like.
For each cup I fill out an entry in each of the following 17 columns (assumes 4:1
ratio):
1. purpose of batch (rudderL, uni2)
2. date (20-11-02)
3. time (20:16)
4. temperature (23.8)
5. relative humidity (41)
6. zero reading (0.0)
7. 100g reading (100.0)
8. check zero (0.0)
9. cup reading (say 12.2)
10. tare reading (0.0)
11. resin1 reading (say 45.7)
12. hardener reading (say 57.7)
13. calculated resin2 reading (60.0)
14. actual resin2 reading (say 60.1)
15. calculated zero reading after tare (-72.3)
16. actual zero reading after tare (-72.3)
17. result (ok)
Notes:
Point 7: I use Satrue scales 200g, 0.1g resolution, comes with a 100g calibration
weight.
Point 11 to 12: I use an "add hardener to read at least" table: 45.6 gives 57.0,
46.0 gives
57.5. etc.
Point 12 to 13: I use a household calculator ("add resin to exactly"): (57.7-45.7)*5Point
14 to 15: household calculator ("minus final expected zero reading"):
60.1+12.2
Designed to achieve:
Resin first, for wetting cup walls.
Resin last to decrease pouring accuracy needed:
Hardener (point 12) within 0..+0.5g is ok.
Final resin (point 14) within -0.2..+0.2 is ok.
All the scales stability checking I could think of.
For point 16 I expect +-0.1g or better.
The measurement procedure takes about 1 minute.
Finally, I reuse my mixing stick. I wipe it at the end of a layup session and save
it for the
next time. This avoids the possible influence of absorption (in an unwanted ratio)
using new
sticks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gas strut ball joints |
| From: | Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
If anybody in the UK has upgraded to metal sockets and would be interested
in selling their 4 old ball fittings that came with the plastic sockets,
please email me off list.
Cheers,
Roger Sheridan
Monowheel, classic, XS wing, still nearly in primer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | EIS panel suggestions |
Hi John,
I agree with all your points, but John H's main concern was : what if the
EIS fails. In my
opinion a failing EIS with a simultaneous serious engine fault is extremely
remote.
I am assuming VFR flight only. But it wouldn'tbe a bad idea to have one
independent
indicator on engine temp. at least. For me the thermometer for the carb
heater
would be adequate, but it indicates only up to 50 C. I have found an
alternative
in the English RS Components catalog, but I haven't a clue how to choose the
correct thermocouple and long lead.
My EIS red light did fail on me due to a faulty connector. Grand Rapids
immediately
mailed a replacement foc. In the US that same light is also available from
any
Radio Shack.
Karl Heindl
Ontario, Canada
>From: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To: europa(at)gate.net
>Subject: RE : Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 22:49:24 -0500
>
>
>
><<<<<<<<<<<<
>From: Europa Aircraft <europa(at)gate.net>
>Subject: Europa-List: EIS panel suggestions
>Hi All,
>I have been getting a lot of calls at the US office lately requesting
>guidance
>for installing engine instruments.
>There are some neat new products available, like the EIS mentioned below.
>The
>EIS is a great way to monitor a large number of engine parameters
>previously impossible
>to do with analog gages.
>The EIS, however, it not as easy to read as an analog instrument. Our
>engines
>are not cheap, and our butts are worth even more, so I strongly recommend
>that
>for the most important engine parameters, easy to read analog gages be
>installed
>in an area easy for the pilot to spot. Examples are the Tachometer,
>hottest
>CHT, Oil Pressure, and Manifold Pressure for constant speed props. It is
>much
>easier to spot a fluxing, or dropping oil pressure needle than to spot, or
>page to the number on an EIS. Once the red light comes on there will not
>be
>as much time left to find a place to land.
>-------------
>-------------
>John Hurst
>Europa Aircraft
>Lakeland, FL
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>Hi John,
>
>With respect, I would like to express a contrary opinion regarding ease of
>reading and monitoring engine conditions. I have an EIS unit and consider
>it to be a key component of my panel. I would suggest that even during
>normal operation and particularly when there are other items requiring
>attention such as joining or flying in a busy pattern, many pilots will
>miss a rising temperature or a dropping pressure on an analog gauge until
>it may be too late. The red "idiot light' from any of the EIS alarm
>settings will get your attention immediately and you have the ability to
>set the alarms at whatever levels you choose.
>
>Before flying my plane, I thought I would need at least some key analog
>gauges but I have found that I need less than I planned. For example, I put
>an analog tacho on my panel. WRONG. I never look at it - the EIS is so
>accurate and refreshes so quickly that the analog unit is redundant.
>
>I consider that ease of reading on the EIS is high with items such as rpm,
>oil temp and pressure, CHT, EGT, fuel pressure and fuel flow all on one
>'favorite' page. A few clicks will get you to all the other many items such
>as volts, OAT, fuel remaining, endurance, etc. I suppose that part of the
>success of my EIS is, of course, the reliabilty of the Rotax 912S. Both
>work just as advertised and the alarms do not go off. So far, the only time
>the red light alarm has operated was when I let my fuel level get low and
>it alarmed at my setting of 3 gallons remaining.
>
>Analog gauges definitely have their place. For example, I do find that an
>analog manifold pressure gauge is necessary to set engine power with a
>constant speed prop. I also have a dual analog voltmeter/ammeter which is a
>useful indicator.
>
>I have to say that I have no business connection with Grand Rapids/EIS !
>
>Cheers, John
>
>N262WF, mono XS, 912S
>Mooresvile, North Carolina
>
>
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Scale calibration |
If you'd be so kind as to send me large quantities (so I can calculate the
standard deviation) I'd be very happy to weight them for you on my .001g
accuracy scales :-). 10kg should do. Larger denominations preferred.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Tail done
Standard XS wings awaiting mods and closing
CM ready for installation in fuse (with airbrakes fittings), but holding off
while I do a load of small jobs first
1100 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Troy Maynor
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Scale calibration
What about US currency? ;)
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Simon Smith
> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 10:02 AM
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Scale calibration
>
>
> For anyone in the UK that has a set of scales but no calibration weights,
> put your hands in your pockets!
>
> The various coins that you will find have specific minted weights
> so as long
> as they have not been too worn they should weigh the following:-
>
> 1p 3.56g
> 2p 7.12g
> 5p 3.25g
> 10p 6.50g
> 20p 5g
> 50p 8g
> 1 9.5g
> 2 12g
>
> Regards
>
> Simon
> 504 G-BZTN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next meet,
providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig pressure.
I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave Friday as
a fall-back.
Any comments ?
Regards and Safe Flying
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
Hi! Tony.
Yes !
Just wish my field was on top of this hill and not in the Ancholme valley
with the fog and mist !
Bob H G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out.
>
> It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next
meet, providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig
pressure.
>
> I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave
Friday as a fall-back.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards and Safe Flying
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Club thanks - was Info or manual |
<<Roland, It is fun to catch you once in a while. From over on this side of the
pond, it seems that the view of the world revolves around the Greenwich Meridian.
Thank you for keeping the Europa records and the web page organized, every one
benefits from you efforts>>
Cliff,
Speaking as Europa Club chairman I must agree and your thanks are welcome, but
I can assure you that Rowland, Jeremy, Davids Watts and Corbett, Tony, Tim and
all the others who have assisted the club would value your membership even
more.
There is no reason whatsoever why regional Club branches could not be set up.
Graham Singleton has mentioned many times the advantages of a type club, and
he has many years experience with the Longeze club in the USA and around the world,
as well as ours.
The Europa Club website at www.europaclub.org.uk has links to all the information you could need about building a Europa, and most of that is freely available to all. Some stuff is in a 'members only' area because a few people (namely Jeremy, David Watts and Rowland) have put a lot of effort into acquiring and sorting the information: If people are willing to spend over $50000 dollars on their finished Europa, then 15 a year to show your support for these guys isn't asking too much.
Recent contributions to the Club magazine have been from John Wigney and Neils
Kock, and were read by more people than on this email list, I would bet. If
people would like more content and experiences from other areas of the Globe,
there's only one answer - join up and write!
I'm happy to discuss offlist anything that can lead to more involvement worldwide
in the Europa Club, including ways to assist, but in the end, volunteers
count.
All the best,
David Bosomworth
kit67, mono, flying
with Europa Club chairman headset on...
davebuzz(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
Hi group,
Before I list this stuff on Ebay, I thought I would throw it up to the group.
I am selling my vacuum system parts and a fuel gauge. The vacuum system is a
Rapco system, with 215CC pump, central filter, regulator and vacuum gauge. I
am asking $300 - new cost was $650. It has 100 hours of operation in the Mini
U2. Also, there is a used attitude indicator for sale - rebuilt in 94 and has
about 4000 to 500 hours on it since. I am asking $200 for that gyro. The final
item is the UMA fuel gauge that worked fine and is in perfect condition. My
sender failed and leaked slightly, so I sealed the hole and went back to the
simple sight gauge. I am asking $70 for the gauge, which I believe cost about
$125 new.
I'll be making my first listing on Ebay in a matter of a day or so -- let me
know if anyone wants any of this.
I can email pictures if anyone is interested. I am curious to see how the
Ebay process works.
Thanks,
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
| Subject: | non-toxic rust-only remover |
FYI : http://www.evapo-rust.com/
I have no experience with it but it might be useful for cleaning slightly rusted
steel parts
before coating them with something - and it is world-wide available.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
--> "Steve Hagar" wrote:
> Does anyone have an accurate rendering of the XS monowheel in profile
in an
> Auto CAD file.
Steve,
I used the drawings from the Europa Flight Manual and blew them up on a
photocopier. I suspect they were printed from a CAD program as they
seem to be perfectly to scale and they show all projections. Worked Ok.
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Mono Classic 281
in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
Seems like a good choice,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out.
>
> It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next
meet, providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig
pressure.
>
> I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave
Friday as a fall-back.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards and Safe Flying
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto CAD file? |
>Does anyone have an accurate rendering of the XS monowheel in profile in an
>Auto CAD file
Steve - there is a file called ga.dxf on the Europa Club CD-ROM which
is the complete monowheel General Arrangement drawing in DXF format
(can be imported by pretty much any CAD application including
AutoCAD). However, you joined long before the CD was being issued to
every new member. I'll get a copy in the post to you today (Wednesday
is my day for doing Europa Club posting & banking).
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (660 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS panel suggestions |
John
Could not agree more. The value of the EIS is that you can set the limits
quite conservatively and that the 'out of limit' parameter flashes when
activated. My personal experience with a high EGT due to a blocked silencer was
that
the bright red flashing light gets your immediate attention which then
switches automatically to the EIS with its out of range value flashing. If the
red
warning light fails then the flashing value on the EIS would quickly get your
attention as it should be within your scan. You can of course include an
audible indicator as well if you wish. Quite brilliant.
I'm saving up for the whole Grand Rapids glass panel set up!
Rick Morris
G-RIKS
XS Tri Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
I am really hoping it will be Friday, but I might make Thursday at a push.
Bryan A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out.
>
> It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next
meet, providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig
pressure.
>
> I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave
Friday as a fall-back.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards and Safe Flying
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
I have just checked out the three day forcast on avnet which portrays a week
front sprawled across the UK from South Wales through East Anglia. Suggests
700 feet None VFR under the front. Think I will be playing Golf. See you
friday otherwise. Bryan A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out.
>
> It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next
meet, providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig
pressure.
>
> I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave
Friday as a fall-back.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards and Safe Flying
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guil Barros <flight(at)metathusalan.com> |
ive been calling around to find out engine prices and have bumped into some
questions...
is the price provided by europa the regular price? it seems to be a little
high...
right now rotax (at least the canadian distributor) is having a sale with the
912ULS (including clutch) going for CAN$ 15595 (about US$12000). This seems
quite far from the Europa ~US$15500 (after you remove the FFW kit).
thoughts?
what are other places i should look for engines?
thx,
-guil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: "Drop of the Hat" fly out. |
At the risk of sounding boring, I have just looked at the local forcast for
Peterborough. It forcasts broken skys with sunshine.....I give up!
I think I will draw the curtains in the morning, and decide then.
Regards Bryan A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: "Drop of the Hat" fly out.
>
> It is still looking like Thursday / Friday will be favourable for the next
meet, providing we do not experience to much Fog with the incoming hig
pressure.
>
> I feel we should opt for Thursday, all things being equal, and leave
Friday as a fall-back.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards and Safe Flying
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers:
"I used the drawings from the Europa Flight Manual and blew them up on a
photocopier. I suspect they were printed from a CAD program as they
Seem to be perfectly to scale and they show all projections. Worked Ok."
I put the canoe together and took some measurements because it appears I
have 1-3/4" to spare when assembled. In the process, I had to revise the
tailwheel to new position and redraw the wheel (both retracted and
extended). Incidentally, the ectended wheel tangents the top of the scale
line on the drawing (as accurately as 2mm measures it).
The guy who must have the best three views is the chap who markets the radio
control model as he says he models to amazing accuracy.
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Paul <tom(at)tompaul.com> |
Rans sell the 912uls for 11,600 if you are buying it with one of their kits.
Why is the europa price so much more?
On 12/3/03 1:21 PM, "Guil Barros" wrote:
>
> ive been calling around to find out engine prices and have bumped into some
> questions...
>
> is the price provided by europa the regular price? it seems to be a little
> high...
>
> right now rotax (at least the canadian distributor) is having a sale with the
> 912ULS (including clutch) going for CAN$ 15595 (about US$12000). This seems
> quite far from the Europa ~US$15500 (after you remove the FFW kit).
>
> thoughts?
>
> what are other places i should look for engines?
>
> thx,
> -guil
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>>> Rans sell the 912uls for 11,600 if you are buying it with one of
their kits.
>> Why is the europa price so much more?
Have you made sure that you've also added in the coolant bottle, ring
mount, slipper clutch etc etc ?
I know at least one owner who decided to source his own 912S and then
buy the Europa FFW kit only to discover that the Europa supplied 912S
has quite a few bits on it that the base 912S doesn't have.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: T. P. Pip pins |
Steve,
What is this about larger pip pins, and why do you reckon you need them??? This
is news to me. I am wondering whether there is a benefit in retrofitting, yet
another job. I drilled mine out in the stabs by hand, and didn't give a lot of
consideration to the frictional forces creating heat that could weaken the flox
securing them. Of course it would by rights just reset, but I dont like the
idea of resetting composite material. I'd prefer to get it right the first
time, but this aspect didn't cross my mind way back then. I am making progress,
which is a good change, and I got that tail displacement under control. Thanks
again for those dimensional photos you sent me. I used them and also noted that
the max deflections are controlled by the limitations of movement of the mass
balance weights. So, I can get my weights very low as I removed the dowel
originally used, and at the top I am going to pad out the splash I made of the
underside of the top fuse. All in all I will get now whatever that ends up to
be, and I then connected up the trim T piece, and sanded out the slots to
accomodate full deflection. It worked well, and with cross reference to your
dimensions, we are similar. So, have you got an engine type sorted, and prop,
instruments etc. The answer to this might be on your web site, and without
blowing smoke up your ar..., I appreciate you doing it, especially picture
dominated. I visit it oftern. So, happy building.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S or a "turboed single rotor rotary, when I am dreaming"
Instrumentation: Undecided
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Burbidge" <tony.burbidge(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | "drop of the hat" fly out |
The latest weather forecast for tomorrow is a little inconclusive, to say the least.
I think a look at Thursday mornings TAFS / METARS will be decision time
to go, or postpone until Friday.
Regards and safe flying
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________