Europa-Archive.digest.vol-eq
March 26, 2005 - April 18, 2005
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1320 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> NevEyre(at)aol.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: N-reg Europa visiting the UK?
>
>
> Hi Jez,,
> That would be Norbert Schmit, a U.S citizen, now based at Nottingham.
> He built it under the supervision of Flightcrafters [ Bob and Russell]
> and
> Andy Draper and myself signed off his ''log book'' [ not the P.F.A. blue
> book]
> at the various inspection stages.
> It was allways his intention to bring it over here, so he tried to play it
> ''by the rules''.
> He is at the moment trying to get it on the U.K. register, he had a waiver
> to fly it from the CAA whilst it was on the ''N'' number, they have been
> very
> helpfull [ for a change ?]
> It had 40 odd hours on it when it was shipped over, I did the ''final
> inspection'', and effectively an annual inspection on it, very nicely put
> together
> and maintained..........
> The paperwork seems to have ground to a halt at a place very close to
> Silverstone.........................
> Cheers,
> Nev.
> P.S. It is a trigear / 914.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | N-reg Europa visiting the UK? |
Mike,
I just knew someone would accuse me of 'going native' when I sent that! No
way, my friend!! The pressure is still on Engineering to deliver - and in
fairness to them, they are currently doing just that: the mod backlog is
right down, Permit issues are turning round very quickly, etc. Most
importantly, work is being prioritised according to need - and I encourage
anyone held up by Engineering, or likely to be very shortly, to keep
reminding them of that.
In my own case, I'm waiting on Francis for his comments on some details of
my autopilot mod - until I have them, I can't finalise it, which means I
can't fit it, which means I cant put the lid on G-EZZA. And I've only the
rudder pedals chapter to do before the lid goes on. So I'm approaching
another stop-work (my workshop is tiny, so rejigging it to do the wings
instead of the fuse is non-trivial). Francis is aware, and I've been
promised a response as soon as possible. The delaying factor to that is the
current airworthiness issues with the Shadow - and which comes first, 150
flying Shadows or 1 Europa under construction?
Finally, as Rowland added, Norbert is now on a G-plate...
But, if anyone out there thinks things are not working as above - PLEASE
TELL ME!!! :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1320 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MICHAEL PARKIN
Subject: Re: Europa-List: N-reg Europa visiting the UK?
Jeremy,
Is there a faint hint of 'Poacher turned Gamekeeper' here.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: N-reg Europa visiting the UK?
>
> Thanks, Nev! In defence of Turweston, they're prioritising work that keeps
> planes in the air or gets them there in the first place - so I suspect
> that's the reason things aren't moving quickly: he's already in the air!
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1320 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> NevEyre(at)aol.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: N-reg Europa visiting the UK?
>
>
> Hi Jez,,
> That would be Norbert Schmit, a U.S citizen, now based at Nottingham.
> He built it under the supervision of Flightcrafters [ Bob and Russell]
> and
> Andy Draper and myself signed off his ''log book'' [ not the P.F.A. blue
> book]
> at the various inspection stages.
> It was allways his intention to bring it over here, so he tried to play it
> ''by the rules''.
> He is at the moment trying to get it on the U.K. register, he had a waiver
> to fly it from the CAA whilst it was on the ''N'' number, they have been
> very
> helpfull [ for a change ?]
> It had 40 odd hours on it when it was shipped over, I did the ''final
> inspection'', and effectively an annual inspection on it, very nicely put
> together
> and maintained..........
> The paperwork seems to have ground to a halt at a place very close to
> Silverstone.........................
> Cheers,
> Nev.
> P.S. It is a trigear / 914.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
Subject: | Kemble- UK Crash |
0.44 FORGED_OUTLOOK_TAGS Outlook can't send HTML in this format
A recent article in the Scotsman appears to confirm that a Europa was
involved.
http://news.scotsman.com/latest.cfm?id=4311765
Very sad.
Alan
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: N-reg Europa visiting the UK? |
Hi All,
I am just a bit curious here. If Norbert is a US citizen and his aircraft
is on the US register then why change to the UK register. Why does he even
need a waiver ?
Paul
>
> Hi Jez,,
> That would be Norbert Schmit, a U.S citizen, now based at Nottingham.
> He is at the moment trying to get it on the U.K. register, he had a waiver
> to fly it from the CAA whilst it was on the ''N'' number,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | N-reg Europa visiting the UK? |
Hi, Paul,
Quite simply because the ICAO rules on flying a foreign-registered plane
only apply to Certified ships. N-reg Experimental ships are allowed here on
a case-by-case basis for short periods - usually as part of a transatlantic
trip, round-the-world trip or, as in Norbert's case, until its Permit is
granted.
Similarly, to fly a G-reg Permit ship in the US, we need a waiver from the
FAA.
An observation of interest: it is often much easier to convert a Permit to
an Experimental than vice-versa, as our rules are much, much stricter (as
I'm sure you know from your time on this list)! Indeed, PFA Engineering warn
folks off buying a foreign plane without working closely with them as it may
not even be possible to get it on a Permit.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1320 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: N-reg Europa visiting the UK?
Hi All,
I am just a bit curious here. If Norbert is a US citizen and his aircraft
is on the US register then why change to the UK register. Why does he even
need a waiver ?
Paul
>
> Hi Jez,,
> That would be Norbert Schmit, a U.S citizen, now based at Nottingham.
> He is at the moment trying to get it on the U.K. register, he had a waiver
> to fly it from the CAA whilst it was on the ''N'' number,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kemble- UK Crash |
To All,
I think that we would all be interested in why the post-crash fire. You
never know how hard they hit the ground. Our thoughts go out to the families.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Before Installing Cockpit Module |
I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was wondering if there
are recommended things to do beyond what the manual describes prior to installation.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101 Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Before Installing Cockpit Module |
> I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was
wondering if there are recommended things to do beyond what the manual
describes prior to installation.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
On the trigear, later access to the tunnel to route and secure things,
like wires, battery cables and fuel lines, will be limited! Even with
a bottom access panel -- mine is 10" x 8", and metal clad on the
inside for transponder antenna ground plane. Before installing the
module, I placed a bunch of stud mounting pads on the fuse bottom.
They're just small chunks of 1/4" wood, chamfered on the edges, to
secure an AN-3 bolt sitting on its head. Bonded and further secured
with 2 layers glass.
An (unaerodynamic) alternative is just later drill holes in the fuse
bottom, for a bolt to secure cable clamps. But they'll be problematic
in affixing the hardware. With the bonded stud arrangement, a cable
clamp and nut can be installed one-handed, reaching into the tunnel.
I didn't plan too well where and how many of these studs should be
located, but luckily close enough to be ahead of the game.
Fabricating said access panel is easier before module install. Since
the glass in this area was not foam sandwich, I first made it into
foam sandwich. Don't like adding weight, but this enables countersink
screws to be used to secure the access panel if you fiddle with adding
flox around the screw holes to be able to cut countersinks.
If you have a 914, consider planning it so that the fuel pumps and
filters are located within easy access through this access panel. The
circuitous factory arrangement stumped me as to its rationale.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Hello to all.
My Europa is near to needing to be transported for weighing, a little paint
touch up and Decals.
A few weeks later it=B9s then up to Kemble for final inspection and the paper
chase exercise!
Maybe even first flight!....... Some may say about time.
Is anyone in the position to rent me a Trailer for a XS TRIGEAR for short
periods of time for above listed journeys which at maximum are 30 miles?
Estimated dates would be around towards end of April.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Graham Pocock" <graham(at)pocock56.fsnet.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Before Installing Cockpit Module |
I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was
wondering if there are recommended things to do beyond what the manual
describes prior to installation.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
On the trigear, later access to the tunnel to route and secure things,
like wires, battery cables and fuel lines, will be limited! Even with
a bottom access panel -- mine is 10" x 8", and metal clad on the
inside for transponder antenna ground plane. Before installing the
module, I placed a bunch of stud mounting pads on the fuse bottom.
They're just small chunks of 1/4" wood, chamfered on the edges, to
secure an AN-3 bolt sitting on its head. Bonded and further secured
with 2 layers glass.
Thanks Fred. I was just about to post the same question.
Graham Pocock
XS Tri-g
535
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Dear Mr. Hat-Trick,
There's a trailer regularly advertised in the Gloster Strut newsletter:
For Hire Recently overhauled 20' x 6' twin axle flatbed trailer,
suitable for transporting aircraft. 25 per day. Call Mike on 01242
239862.
You got access to something with a tow-bar - or shall I bring the Subaru
down?
Love to Matron. Keep taking the pills.
Cheers,
Jez
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1320 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Holland
Subject: Europa-List: Trailer-UK
Hello to all.
My Europa is near to needing to be transported for weighing, a little paint
touch up and Decals.
A few weeks later it=B9s then up to Kemble for final inspection and the
paper
chase exercise!
Maybe even first flight!....... Some may say about time.
Is anyone in the position to rent me a Trailer for a XS TRIGEAR for short
periods of time for above listed journeys which at maximum are 30 miles?
Estimated dates would be around towards end of April.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)wanadoo.fr> |
From: "R\351mi Guerner" <ai...
Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and will be happy
to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the following week-end (April
16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to talk Europa with those of you
who are flying/building in the Phoenix area. Please let me know if we can arrange
a meeting .
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM> |
Hi All,
What kind of fuel lines are being installed. I see alu
tube and black rubber hose.
What material and temper wall thickness are you using.
I really don't want to have to change the fuel lines
every 5 years.
it was said the crash requirements drove the rubber
tube.
what say yee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net> |
Rmi-
If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite Crafters
in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have done, but
I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that part of the
country.
Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi Guerner
Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to
talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the Phoenix
area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting .
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
Subject: | Before Installing Cockpit Module |
I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was wondering if there
are recommended things to do beyond what the manual describes prior to
installation.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
Dave
design and fit the fuel system, best with metal pipes
Graham
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
We will be at Sun 'n Fun, albeit without any Europa's in tow--and would like to
meet with any interested Europaphiles. Also, while you are in Phoenix, you are
more than welcome to visit our Builders' Assistance facility, we currently are
working on some motorglider wings, and have a completed mono-wheel here for
sale.
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
Further to my last message, my email address is rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our
phone number is 480-924-9750. Thanks for the recommendation Jim.
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
Jim Puglise wrote:
Rmi-
If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite Crafters
in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have done, but
I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that part of the
country.
Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi Guerner
Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to
talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the Phoenix
area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting .
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Stills" <astills(at)senecawholesale.com> |
Remi,
I will not be at Sun N Fun but am currently building in Phoenix. Would be more
than happy
to meet up with you. Contact me off list is interested @ astills(at)cox.net
Al Stills
N625AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
> ...
> What material and temper wall thickness are you using.
> I really don't want to have to change the fuel lines
> every 5 years.
> it was said the crash requirements drove the rubber
> tube.
>
That would require an all-knowing assumption as to the most common
destruction mode of the structure in the event of a crash. Then test
it, both metal and rubber lines, in crashes. :-) Our gov't actually
does that for free, where auto mfrs supply vehicles to crash, and
"Detroit" at times gets it wrong.
Common practice if in doubt is a short flexible hose at the tank,
thence aluminum. Seems not much space at the tank outlet to provide
for "crashability" by design of the bend in a pipe and attention to
attach points. 2024 aluminum is common with fuel lines.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
I used Fuel injection hose for my system with plastic spiral wrap to ward off
abrasion. I was told by many that if my decision was to use rubber that I
should not use the hose supplied by the kit manufacturer. In addition Fuel
Injection hose was recommended in it's place.
I grieved considerably about this very subject. In the end I went the easiest
way out. And yes, I expect to replace these hoses some time in the distant
future.
Good performance under a crash is most important. However, you will find on
this list some complaints about fuel smell in the cockpit. Some believe the
odor it is due to the rubber connection at the filler pipe. < There is a nice
aluminum connection modification for that issue which I will install.> Other
think the smell is from the original rubber hose supplied with the kit.
If you decide to use rubber, then buy fuel injection hose for the job.
If you are dead set NOT to use rubber, check out Bob Borgers installation of
the fuel lines on the WWW.Europaowners.org site. A nice set up of flexible
nylon lines.
As a side note: I did not care for the fuel valve supplied in the kit. I
installed an Andair fuel selection vale in it's place. It is a very nice piece
and IMHO much much better made than the O.E. part.
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co> |
assist us with political lobbying in the UK
Subject: | Information from our non-UK friends needed to |
assist us with political lobbying in the UK
FILETIME=[DE5C3FB0:01C533B2]
From Colombia as in South America not British Columbia
A) Typical cost to get licence USD15k including instruction and ac hire
B) Annual cost to retain licence USD1k
2 Annual cost to own an aircraft comprising (for typical 4 seat non complex
CAA aircraft) USD5k
A) Typical maintenance USD500
B) Insurance USD300yr(liability only - hull to expensive)
C) Hangarage (lets assume it is hangared at a "low end" licensed
aerodrome)USD150 mo
3) Operating costs
A) Cost of fuel per litre USD4 per USGal
B) Typical landing charges - licensed airfield NIL
C) Typical Parking charge (one night) NIL
D) average operating cost for 40 hours per year to include (A, B & C above)
err not been through this
E) for IFR community, typical Nav and IFR charges for 500 mile journey NIL
4) Brief notes on anything related to above which is country specific. Well
obviously we have a serious control issue here due to the narcotics problem
but apart from that the use of the aviation system is basically without cost
for sport ac.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey
Subject: Europa-List: Information from our non-UK friends needed to assist
us with political lobbying in the UK
Hi, Europaphiles,
The PFA (the UK equivalent of the EAA) are engaged in a considerable amount
of political lobbying at present, and our man leading this (Roger Hopkinson)
needs some information from our overseas friends in a hurry. Can you help?
We need to make a comparison of the cost of flying for an "average GA
individual" and importantly how this compares with other countries. To do
his we want to take a lower end CofA aircraft, say a PA28, Robin DR400 or
Cessna 172 and typically look at the operating costs as well as the cost of
getting and retaining the PPL itself. Please note that we=92re not comparing
Experimental with Permit, for example, as the regulations for those aircraft
vary much more from country to country than the Certificate of Airworthiness
ships.
It would be helpful if someone could volunteer to put the typical cost for
their country together for the following:-
1 Cost of getting and retaining a basic PPL comprising:
A) Typical cost to get licence
B) Annual cost to retain licence
2 Annual cost to own an aircraft comprising (for typical 4 seat non complex
CAA aircraft)
A) Typical maintenance
B) Insurance
C) Hangarage (lets assume it is hangared at a "low end" licensed aerodrome)
3) Operating costs
A) Cost of fuel per litre
B) Typical landing charges - licensed airfield
C) Typical Parking charge (one night)
D) average operating cost for 40 hours per year to include (A, B & C above)
E) for IFR community, typical Nav and IFR charges for 500 mile journey
4) Brief notes on anything related to above which is country specific.
I know we could argue the definitions for ever, what we need is typical
mid-range figures.
If you can help, please email Roger on roger(at)hopkinson.org.uk - he needs to
put together an outline package of information early next week!
Thanks and regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1320 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co> |
Subject: | Before Installing Cockpit Module |
FILETIME=[58A4D150:01C533B9]
Dave,
I screwed up and the result was a large number of bubbles which then had to
be filled and then subsequently the bonding had to be reinforced with tapes
all the way round.
1. It might seem like a pretty obvious thing to do but first make sure that
the cradle you constructed is the one recommended in the manual. This was
my big error - I built formers based on the cockpit module and these did not
allow for the boat shape.
2. pre-fit. Doing it again I think I would have used some larger bolts and
washers at the bottom corner of the firewall (where your front LG
frame/engine mount will go through the fw). Probably 1/4in wd do the trick.
Draw the cockpit module up to the firewall as stated in the manual and then
make sure everything else in the right place. I used a digital level to
ensure that the spar bushes and the two upper surface of the two foot wells
were level.
3. Make sure that you have the required number of people (at least 2)
4. Prepare your Redux in the right quantities - I do not think I used
enough - but the general consensus seems to be about one tin. (any
comments?)
5. Spread liberally on both surfaces. From this point on there are some
very good comments from others on the subject.
Good luck
Will
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Simenauer
Subject: Europa-List: Before Installing Cockpit Module
I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was wondering if
there are recommended things to do beyond what the manual describes prior to
installation.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101 Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Remi:
I am building a monowheel just outside of Phoenix and down the road from
Phoenix Composites. I am in the home stretch, building the seats now. I'm
sorry to say I'll be hiking a canyon in Utah on the 16 th and 17 th of
April. Though I am scheduled to be back at the house on the evening of the
18th if you will still be around. If the hike wasn't planned I would
probably be down at Sun and Fun also.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
N40SH
Steve Hagar
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: Rmi Guerner <air.guerner(at)wanadoo.fr>
> To:
> Date: 3/27/2005 11:50:25 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the following
week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to talk Europa
with those of you who are flying/building in the Phoenix area. Please let
me know if we can arrange a meeting .
> Remi Guerner
> F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Before Installing Cockpit Module |
Dave,
Look at my photos on Steve Dunsmuirs site. Also, whatever you do, I
recommend hardly any flox in your mix. Anything on the bottom of the boat
will not need much and you have big flange areas you need to bed down in
the stuff. I did it with one other person, not enough. You need at least 2
helpers I reckon, maybe 3 if you can. Be prepared to spatula it in under
the flanges, and don't listen to anyone who talks about the amount of redux
they use. Perfectionists who seem to "get it right first time every time".
If you are a mere mortal, ignore these people, use "plenty of redux", and
lose a kg, or go to the toilet before flying :-)
I can offer up a lot more but my photos are pretty thorough in this area I
think.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 12:19 AM 3/28/2005, you wrote:
>
>I am getting close to installing my cockpit module and I was wondering if
>there are recommended things to do beyond what the manual describes prior
>to installation.
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Simenauer
>A101 Trigear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 03/28/05 |
> it was said the crash requirements drove the rubber
> tube.
>
That would require an all-knowing assumption as to the most common
destruction mode of the structure in the event of a crash. Then test
it, both metal and rubber lines, in crashes. :-) Our gov't actually
does that for free, where auto mfrs supply vehicles to crash, and
"Detroit" at times gets it wrong.
Common practice if in doubt is a short flexible hose at the tank,
thence aluminum. Seems not much space at the tank outlet to provide
for "crashability" by design of the bend in a pipe and attention to
attach points. 2024 aluminum is common with fuel lines.
Most people use 3003 Versatube for the fuel lines, sometimes 5052 which is
a bit stiffer. versatube is almost as soft as rubber (;-)
Not too difficult to go all the way to the firewall. IMHO 2024 is too stiff .
Graham
--
________________________________________________________________________________
I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst out
there?
Alan
Trigear G CBWF
914 airmaster
Aprox 120 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
Huntington
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
-->
Further to my last message, my email address is
rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750. Thanks
for the recommendation Jim.
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
Jim Puglise wrote:
Rmi-
If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite Crafters
in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have done, but I
am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that part of the
country.
Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi Guerner
Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to
talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the Phoenix
area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net> |
If I read the vendor list correctly it appears Europa will be at Sun-n-Fun
this year in space S-024. The map shows them across from the food area on
the back row against the trees. We might could all meet up at their
location and plan something for later on in the week. Maybe find us a local
restaurant and do our own "mini" banquet even if it's just McDonald's.....
Bill
A010 Europa Monowheel Classic
Atlanta, GA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
> europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst out
> there?
>
> Alan
> Trigear G CBWF
> 914 airmaster
> Aprox 120 hrs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> Huntington
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> -->
>
> Further to my last message, my email address is
> rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750. Thanks
> for the recommendation Jim.
>
> Rob Huntington
> Phoenix Composites
>
> Jim Puglise wrote:
>
> Rmi-
>
> If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
> Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite Crafters
> in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have done, but I
> am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that part of the
> country.
>
> Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi Guerner
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
> will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
> following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate to
> talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the Phoenix
> area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi Guerner
> F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to a 912S.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm up for that can we fix something up and maybe leave a note with
Europa advising of the time and place so others can get details as they
visit the stand
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Henderson
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
-->
If I read the vendor list correctly it appears Europa will be at
Sun-n-Fun
this year in space S-024. The map shows them across from the food area
on
the back row against the trees. We might could all meet up at their
location and plan something for later on in the week. Maybe find us a
local
restaurant and do our own "mini" banquet even if it's just
McDonald's.....
Bill
A010 Europa Monowheel Classic
Atlanta, GA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
> europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst
> out there?
>
> Alan
> Trigear G CBWF
> 914 airmaster
> Aprox 120 hrs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> Huntington
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> -->
>
> Further to my last message, my email address is
> rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750. Thanks
> for the recommendation Jim.
>
> Rob Huntington
> Phoenix Composites
>
> Jim Puglise wrote:
>
> Rmi-
>
> If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
> Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite
> Crafters in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have
> done, but I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that
> part of the country.
>
> Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi
> Guerner
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
> will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
> following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate
> to talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the
> Phoenix area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi
> Guerner F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to
> a 912S.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
Subject: | Mono Brake Bleed |
Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand that the
fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how does one do this?
I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it would suck up the fluid
without success. Also tried filling the master cylinder and pumping fluid to
the caliper without success. I notice on this forum that Bob Harrison used a
"squeezy bottle" to force fluid into the caliper. What's a "squeezy bottle"?
Thanks
Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
finishing engine install & FWF wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net> |
Guess we can play it by ear when we get there. I'll be arriving on
Wednesday, 4/13. Maybe whoever get's there first can talk with someone from
Europa and see if we can set something up.
Anyone out there have any ideas?????
Bill
A010 Monowheel Classic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> I'm up for that can we fix something up and maybe leave a note with
> Europa advising of the time and place so others can get details as they
> visit the stand
>
> Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Henderson
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> -->
>
> If I read the vendor list correctly it appears Europa will be at
> Sun-n-Fun
> this year in space S-024. The map shows them across from the food area
> on
> the back row against the trees. We might could all meet up at their
> location and plan something for later on in the week. Maybe find us a
> local
> restaurant and do our own "mini" banquet even if it's just
> McDonald's.....
>
> Bill
> A010 Europa Monowheel Classic
> Atlanta, GA.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
>> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>>
>> I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
>> europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst
>> out there?
>>
>> Alan
>> Trigear G CBWF
>> 914 airmaster
>> Aprox 120 hrs
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
>> Huntington
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>>
>>
>> -->
>>
>> Further to my last message, my email address is
>> rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750. Thanks
>
>> for the recommendation Jim.
>>
>> Rob Huntington
>> Phoenix Composites
>>
>> Jim Puglise wrote:
>>
>> Rmi-
>>
>> If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
>> Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite
>> Crafters in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have
>> done, but I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that
>> part of the country.
>>
>> Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi
>> Guerner
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>>
>>
>>
>> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
>> will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
>> following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate
>> to talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the
>> Phoenix area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi
>> Guerner F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914 to
>
>> a 912S.
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleed |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleed
>
> Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand that
> the fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how does
> one do this? I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it would
> suck up the fluid without success. Also tried filling the master cylinder
> and pumping fluid to the caliper without success. I notice on this forum
> that Bob Harrison used a "squeezy bottle" to force fluid into the caliper.
> What's a "squeezy bottle"?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
> finishing engine install & FWF wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleed |
Jim Butcher wrote:
> Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel....
Harbor Freight and such sell a manual vacuum pump, inlcuding a clever
bottle used to intercept and observe fluid sucked out of the bleeder
screw. Just need to keep the master cylinder level up. My IA/A&P
with 50 yrs exp, and erstwhile A&P school instructor, had never seen
that technique and was rather amazed as I was quickly completing a
brake ass'y swap. It's handy also to find leaks in static lines, if
very careful to avoid sudden pressure changes in pressure instruments.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Before Installing Cockpit Module |
>> 2024 aluminum is common with fuel lines.
> Most people use 3003 Versatube for the fuel lines, sometimes
> 5052 which is a bit stiffer. versatube is almost as soft as rubber
(;-)
> Not too difficult to go all the way to the firewall. IMHO 2024 is
too stiff .
> Graham
Come to think, I have to agree on ductile 3003. Just doesn't look as
pretty. There was an interesting NASA display at an Oshkosh once.
Actual crashed fiberglass structures; slow-motion video of their
tests. Composites flex very considerably, before tearing the cloth,
giving the final appearance of the plane just "breaking" in places.
After seeing all that, I concluded a flex line at least at the tank
connections might be best. But I really don't know for sure!
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Mono Brake Bleed |
Hi! Jim .
For the initial charging of the fluid obviously air rises so the bleed
screw needs to be at the low side of the slave or calliper cylinder and
the system supply pipe needs connecting at the upper location on the
calliper back to the master cylinder. This enables the air to rise and
be forced back through the system to exit at the master cylinder. To
pressure feed from the bleed nipple I connected a flexible pipe to the
top of a washing up soap bottle or any clean plastic bottle (preferably
clear so you can see the oil air levels) full of the requisite oil,
inverted the bottle after connection then squeeze the bottle, pressure
forcing oil from the bottle through the slave cylinder back to the
master cylinder taking all air before it. You must stop before the
squeeze bottle is empty though or you will be pushing air in again!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Butcher
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleed
Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand
that the fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how
does one do this? I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it
would suck up the fluid without success. Also tried filling the master
cylinder and pumping fluid to the caliper without success. I notice on
this forum that Bob Harrison used a "squeezy bottle" to force fluid into
the caliper. What's a "squeezy bottle"?
Thanks
Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
finishing engine install & FWF wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net> |
I talked with Bob Berube from Flite Crafters and they will be building a
Zeanir (I think) at Sun-N-Fun. I sure he would serve as an unofficial
meeting place. Lynne and I will be there Thursday and Friday.
Jim Puglise, A283
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Henderson
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
Guess we can play it by ear when we get there. I'll be arriving on
Wednesday, 4/13. Maybe whoever get's there first can talk with someone
from
Europa and see if we can set something up.
Anyone out there have any ideas?????
Bill
A010 Monowheel Classic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> I'm up for that can we fix something up and maybe leave a note with
> Europa advising of the time and place so others can get details as
they
> visit the stand
>
> Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Henderson
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> -->
>
> If I read the vendor list correctly it appears Europa will be at
> Sun-n-Fun
> this year in space S-024. The map shows them across from the food
area
> on
> the back row against the trees. We might could all meet up at their
> location and plan something for later on in the week. Maybe find us a
> local
> restaurant and do our own "mini" banquet even if it's just
> McDonald's.....
>
> Bill
> A010 Europa Monowheel Classic
> Atlanta, GA.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
>> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>>
>> I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
>> europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst
>> out there?
>>
>> Alan
>> Trigear G CBWF
>> 914 airmaster
>> Aprox 120 hrs
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
>> Huntington
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>>
>>
>> -->
>>
>> Further to my last message, my email address is
>> rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750.
Thanks
>
>> for the recommendation Jim.
>>
>> Rob Huntington
>> Phoenix Composites
>>
>> Jim Puglise wrote:
>>
>> Rmi-
>>
>> If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
>> Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite
>> Crafters in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have
>> done, but I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that
>> part of the country.
>>
>> Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi
>> Guerner
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>>
>>
>>
>> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
>> will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
>> following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate
>> to talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the
>> Phoenix area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi
>> Guerner F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914
to
>
>> a 912S.
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Europaowners Gallery |
<<>>>
Hello,
I was wondering if someone could include the builders' names on all of the
albums. I could not find these pictures. The server seemed to not be loading
most of the pictures anyway. I may have been a temporary problem. Thanks.
Troy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr> |
Subject: | WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000 |
I heard a Europa builders buy this propeller in UK.
Do you have flight news?
Do you have a PFA documents to install this propeller with a 912 engine
on a Europa monowheel?
Thank you
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY N=B0145
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleed |
Jim Butcher wrote:
>
>Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand that the
fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how does one do this?
I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it would suck up the fluid
without success. Also tried filling the master cylinder and pumping fluid to
the caliper without success. I notice on this forum that Bob Harrison used
a "squeezy bottle" to force fluid into the caliper. What's a "squeezy bottle"?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
>finishing engine install & FWF wiring
>
>
>
>
Jim,
I went through all the usual headaches, including the suction pump, on
my tri-grear. My solution was to fill the reservoir and pressurise it
to about 30 PSI, using an air supply and blowgun, having my son open the
caliper bleeder and pushing about 3/4s of the the fluid out of the
reservoir, before closing the bleeder and refilling the reservoir.
After about three refills, the system was bubble free and working fine.
Jeff - A055
Almost there. FWF left to do, before first flight...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleed |
If the brakes on the mono wheel are anything like those on our Tri - its
simple - use a syringe and a bit of tubing. Remove the bleed valve on the
master cylinder, fit the syringe to the bleed nipple on the wheel cylinder
using the short length of tubing and 'inject' the fluid until the syringe is
almost empty - then lock the nipple off and repeat until the master cylinder
is full.
Worked a treat for me - took about 10 minutes (plus an hour to find the
right size tubing).
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Brake Bleed
>
> Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand that
> the fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how does
> one do this? I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it would
> suck up the fluid without success. Also tried filling the master cylinder
> and pumping fluid to the caliper without success. I notice on this forum
> that Bob Harrison used a "squeezy bottle" to force fluid into the caliper.
> What's a "squeezy bottle"?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
> finishing engine install & FWF wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com> |
Dear All
I will be out at Sun'n'Fun for the week and should have Andy Draper and a
couple of others staying with me in Kissimmee.
I do have a couple of beds to let for the week so if anyone is interested
contact me off line.
Regards
Steve Pitt #403 XS Trigear G-SMDH
(frustratingly close to lift off - if I ever finish the sanding and
filling!!!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
> I talked with Bob Berube from Flite Crafters and they will be building a
> Zeanir (I think) at Sun-N-Fun. I sure he would serve as an unofficial
> meeting place. Lynne and I will be there Thursday and Friday.
>
> Jim Puglise, A283
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Henderson
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
>
> Guess we can play it by ear when we get there. I'll be arriving on
> Wednesday, 4/13. Maybe whoever get's there first can talk with someone
> from
> Europa and see if we can set something up.
> Anyone out there have any ideas?????
>
> Bill
> A010 Monowheel Classic
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
>
>
> > <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> >
> > I'm up for that can we fix something up and maybe leave a note with
> > Europa advising of the time and place so others can get details as
> they
> > visit the stand
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> > Henderson
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> >
> >
> > -->
> >
> > If I read the vendor list correctly it appears Europa will be at
> > Sun-n-Fun
> > this year in space S-024. The map shows them across from the food
> area
> > on
> > the back row against the trees. We might could all meet up at their
> > location and plan something for later on in the week. Maybe find us a
> > local
> > restaurant and do our own "mini" banquet even if it's just
> > McDonald's.....
> >
> > Bill
> > A010 Europa Monowheel Classic
> > Atlanta, GA.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> >
> >
> >> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> >>
> >> I am flying from U.K. this weekend to attend Sun n Fun is there any
> >> europa gathering taking place, if not anyone fancy meeting up whilst
> >> out there?
> >>
> >> Alan
> >> Trigear G CBWF
> >> 914 airmaster
> >> Aprox 120 hrs
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> >> Huntington
> >> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> >>
> >>
> >> -->
> >>
> >> Further to my last message, my email address is
> >> rob(at)phoenixcomposites.com and our phone number is 480-924-9750.
> Thanks
> >
> >> for the recommendation Jim.
> >>
> >> Rob Huntington
> >> Phoenix Composites
> >>
> >> Jim Puglise wrote:
> >>
> >> Rmi-
> >>
> >> If you are going to Phoenix, you need to hook up with the people at
> >> Phoenix Composites. They were doing something similar to Flite
> >> Crafters in the Phoenix area. I don't know how many Europas they have
> >> done, but I am sure they have a handle on who is doing what in that
> >> part of the country.
> >>
> >> Jim, A283, Punta Gorda, FL
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rmi
> >> Guerner
> >> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: Europa-List: Sun' n Fun
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Any Europa going to Sunn Fun ? I will be there on April 12 and 13 and
> >> will be happy to meet with other Europa owners. I will spend the
> >> following week-end (April 16-17 ) in Phoenix, AZ. I would appreciate
> >> to talk Europa with those of you who are flying/building in the
> >> Phoenix area. Please let me know if we can arrange a meeting . Remi
> >> Guerner F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 300 hours, upgraded from a 914
> to
> >
> >> a 912S.
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Following a few threads over the past year or so with regard to the XCOM
760 radio I thought the views of the CAA might be of interest:
Dear Mr Stewart
Unfortunately, the XCOM 760 is not approved for use in Europe either under
the CAA or EASA, it is only approved in the USA and Australia.
It is not possible at this time to approve the equipment through EASA as no
agreement between the authorities, or higher (i.e.. government) exists.
If you require further information or assistance, then please do not
hesitate to contact me.
Yours sincerely
Mrs Helen Brown
Administrator
Aircraft Systems & Equipment Department
Civil Aviation Authority
Safety Regulation Group
Aviation House
Gatwick Airport South
West Sussex
RH6 0YR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Re: Radio question |
This is the reply i had from XCOM earlier this week on this issue.
We are still working at it... with approvals for Finland now done
acceptance should be automatic, will keep you posted.
Thanks Michael
ivor.phillips wrote:
> What progress have you had with certifying the Xcom 760 with the CAA
> for use in United Kingdom Airspace ?
>
> regards
> Ivor Phillips
>
--
With regards, Michael Coates
XCOM Avionics
mailto:info(at)xcom760.com
Web Site: http://www.xcom760.com
From: "Paul Stewart" <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Radio question
>
> Following a few threads over the past year or so with regard to the XCOM
> 760 radio I thought the views of the CAA might be of interest:
>
> Dear Mr Stewart
>
> Unfortunately, the XCOM 760 is not approved for use in Europe either under
> the CAA or EASA, it is only approved in the USA and Australia.
>
> It is not possible at this time to approve the equipment through EASA as
> no
> agreement between the authorities, or higher (i.e.. government) exists.
>
> If you require further information or assistance, then please do not
> hesitate to contact me.
>
> Yours sincerely
>
> Mrs Helen Brown
>
> Administrator
> Aircraft Systems & Equipment Department
>
> Civil Aviation Authority
> Safety Regulation Group
> Aviation House
> Gatwick Airport South
> West Sussex
> RH6 0YR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Houlihan,Tim" <tim.houlihan(at)oce.co.uk> |
Subject: | WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000 |
I have recently taken delivery of an SR2000 prop for my Europa Classic, but
no flight details yet.
Woodcomp have developed a spinner to suit the Rotax powered classic
aircraft and I must say it looks great.
At least one other classic owner has ordered a Woodcomp so we can expect
some news soon.
regards
Tim Houlihan
No 10 G-BZTH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mau11
Subject: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
I heard a Europa builders buy this propeller in UK.
Do you have flight news?
Do you have a PFA documents to install this propeller with a 912 engine
on a Europa monowheel?
Thank you
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY N=B0145
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Anyone got ay experience of using Aerodur's brushing filler (pin hole
filler)
Regards
Paul Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer(at)quicknet.nl> |
Subject: | Rotax 912S power issue |
During take-off power no problems, at throtlinging back 200-300 rpm at 700
feet, the engine starts to run rough for 1-2 seconds, as if it's running on
3 cylinders, thereafter no observations.
Engine has been checked by Rotax dealer on ignition and carb balancing,
nothing found.
Any suggestions ?
Sven den Boer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
Folks, a word of caution when dealing with XCOM.
I ordered their intercom and a harness to switch between two Microair 760's.
The harness was junk and did not work. Michael would go months and months
without answering my emails. Finally, after two years he said send it back
and he would refund my $$ by crediting my credit card. He did not refund
the money.
Beware!
Tom Friedland A079 XS mono Jab3300 Airmaster
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ivor.phillips
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Radio question
-->
This is the reply i had from XCOM earlier this week on this issue.
We are still working at it... with approvals for Finland now done acceptance
should be automatic, will keep you posted.
Thanks Michael
ivor.phillips wrote:
> What progress have you had with certifying the Xcom 760 with the CAA
> for use in United Kingdom Airspace ?
>
> regards
> Ivor Phillips
>
--
With regards, Michael Coates
XCOM Avionics
mailto:info(at)xcom760.com
Web Site: http://www.xcom760.com
From: "Paul Stewart" <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Radio question
> -->
>
> Following a few threads over the past year or so with regard to the
> XCOM 760 radio I thought the views of the CAA might be of interest:
>
> Dear Mr Stewart
>
> Unfortunately, the XCOM 760 is not approved for use in Europe either
> under the CAA or EASA, it is only approved in the USA and Australia.
>
> It is not possible at this time to approve the equipment through EASA
> as
> no
> agreement between the authorities, or higher (i.e.. government) exists.
>
> If you require further information or assistance, then please do not
> hesitate to contact me.
>
> Yours sincerely
>
> Mrs Helen Brown
>
> Administrator
> Aircraft Systems & Equipment Department
>
> Civil Aviation Authority
> Safety Regulation Group
> Aviation House
> Gatwick Airport South
> West Sussex
> RH6 0YR
>
>
>
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mono Brake Bleed |
Jim
Go to a hardware store, they have oil can oilers, they hold about 6 ounces of oil
or brake fluid, it has a flexible spout that you can put a piece of rubber
on and connect to the bleeding valve, then just pump the brake fluid up to the
master cylinder. It goes without saying to loosen the cap on the master cylinder
so that the air will have a place to escape. The oiler has a one way valve
so that the fluid will not run back into it.
This is the way I do my monowheel
Jim Brown
N398JB
600 + hrs
Jim Butcher wrote:
>
> Having difficulity bleeding the brake on our monowheel. I understand that the
fluid needs to enter at the bleed valve on the caliper but how does one do this?
I tried just pumping the master cylinder hoping it would suck up the fluid
without success. Also tried filling the master cylinder and pumping fluid
to the caliper without success. I notice on this forum that Bob Harrison used
a "squeezy bottle" to force fluid into the caliper. What's a "squeezy bottle"?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Butcher A185 B241BW
> finishing engine install & FWF wiring
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Radio question |
Hi all,
Interestingly enough I had exactly the reverse service. My XCOM intercom
took a dump so I called Michael up. He immediately shipped me a brand new
one with a return envelope for the old one. No money changed hands.
I did find that emails to him never worked, I used the telephone.
Paul
> Folks, a word of caution when dealing with XCOM.
>
> I ordered their intercom and a harness to switch between two Microair
> 760's.
> The harness was junk and did not work. Michael would go months and months
> without answering my emails. Finally, after two years he said send it
> back
> and he would refund my $$ by crediting my credit card. He did not refund
> the money.
>
> Beware!
>
> Tom Friedland A079 XS mono Jab3300 Airmaster
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S power issue |
Sven den Boer
I think I had similar problems. I have done several thing and now things are
working much better. It is very unnerving to do a clime-out and then back
off on the throttle only to have the engine start to run rough. When I went
back to full power it was OK and then ran rough again when I pulled the
throttle back a little.
One thing that helped was to remember to put the carb vent tubes in the air
box. This is not in the firewall foreword instruction, but it is in the
Rotax service manual. (I found it there later) Another thing is to increase
the spring tension on the carbs for the throttle cable. The spring that
pulls the cable to full throttle. These springs are a bit week for the way I
installed the cables.
And the last thought on this problem is "carb ice" . I thought at one time
that was the answer, now I am not so sure. I did install Skydrive Carb
Heaters, and a bunch of work with the muffler (silence for the decedents of
my ancestors) to prevent backfiring and the resulting high temperature in
the lower cowling.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer(at)quicknet.nl>
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax 912S power issue
>
>
> During take-off power no problems, at throtlinging back 200-300 rpm at 700
> feet, the engine starts to run rough for 1-2 seconds, as if it's running
> on
> 3 cylinders, thereafter no observations.
> Engine has been checked by Rotax dealer on ignition and carb balancing,
> nothing found.
> Any suggestions ?
>
> Sven den Boer
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CHUCK RHOADS <cfrhoads(at)YAHOO.COM> |
After working on a kit plane for 6 years I decided that it was time to do something
else, so as of today I now have a real flying airplane. My Europa XS trike
passed the FAA exam last week. My flight instructor took it up today for the
first time for 20 minutes. Everything was normal and it flies well, Ill add more
details as we get more testing done.
I am using a GM Geo Metro 1300CC 4 cylinder engine that, with the tuned exhaust,
puts out 97 HP. The motor used a Raven reduction drive and a Power Fin prop.
Many different configurations have been tried before reaching a satisfactory
cooling arrangement. There are approximately 60 wires going to the computer which
controls ignition and the multiport fuel injection. This arrangement also
no longer needs a choke and is automatically altitude compensated.
Chuck Rhoads A100
N246CR
Chuck Rhoads
cfrhoads(at)yahoo.com
104 Shuttle Dr.
Georgetown, KY 40324
(502) 867-7625
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
Congratulations Chuck!
It was after talking to you in 2002 that I decided to go forward with
buying A258. I will be looking forward to hearing your test results.
I'll have mine at MQY in a few months to start testing myself.
Hopefully we can get together after you enjoy 40 hours alone.
Jeff Roberts
A258
Just outside of Nashville TN
On Mar 29, 2005, at 9:09 PM, CHUCK RHOADS wrote:
>
>
> After working on a kit plane for 6 years I decided that it was time to
> do something else, so as of today I now have a real flying airplane.
> My Europa XS trike passed the FAA exam last week. My flight instructor
> took it up today for the first time for 20 minutes. Everything was
> normal and it flies well, Ill add more details as we get more testing
> done.
>
> I am using a GM Geo Metro 1300CC 4 cylinder engine that, with the
> tuned exhaust, puts out 97 HP. The motor used a Raven reduction drive
> and a Power Fin prop. Many different configurations have been tried
> before reaching a satisfactory cooling arrangement. There are
> approximately 60 wires going to the computer which controls ignition
> and the multiport fuel injection. This arrangement also no longer
> needs a choke and is automatically altitude compensated.
>
> Chuck Rhoads A100
>
> N246CR
>
>
> Chuck Rhoads
> cfrhoads(at)yahoo.com
> 104 Shuttle Dr.
> Georgetown, KY 40324
> (502) 867-7625
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rudder cable routing |
From: | grroberts3(at)juno.com |
I'm laying in the rudder cables on an XS with a Singleton tail wheel mod.
The fuel lines are rigid aluminum and are already installed. The manual
instructions for Tufnol cable guides bolted to the thigh supports has me
stumped.
I've modified the forward rubbing blocks by reducing the thickness (about
1/4 inch) and have plenty of clearance from the framework. The cables
just clear the wheel well side all the way back to the removable bulkhead
and beyond to the pulleys. My thigh supports are recessed well beyond
the 30mm dimensions given for fabrication the Tufnol cable guides.
Additionally, any further deflection outboard at the thigh supports will
bring the cables into contact with the wheel well walls.
From the pulleys aft, the cables rise to the bellcrank and foul the fuel
lines. There is room under the fuel lines if I hold the cables down and
prevent them rising until aft of the cockpit module.
I intend to put in turnbuckles aft of the cockpit module that should be
accessible below the cargo shelf.
I had intended to use Nylaflow tubing on the cabling and have even found
the site gauge tubing (that I won't be using) to be perfect as an outer
cover on the Nylaflow tubing allowing easy replacement of the Nylaflow in
the future. Nylaflow sure seemed like a good idea when discussed on the
list some time ago. I find that I am now in need of the details.
1. Are the cable guide as described in the manual really necessary if
the cables are already fully outboard?
2. Is Nylaflow tube an appropriate substitute to secure the cable near
the thigh supports?
3. Where, precisely, should the cables have Nylaflow? Can it be used to
change cable direction, as in keeping the cable on the floor
until aft of the fuel lines?
4. How is the Nylaflow secured? Simple glass tape layups at critical
points?
I would appreciate any suggestions and experiences.
Thanks
GRoberts
A187
Tucson, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | R Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S power issue |
Sven den Boer wrote:
>
>
> During take-off power no problems, at throtlinging back
> 200-300 rpm at 700 feet, the engine starts to run rough
> for 1-2 seconds, as if it's running on 3 cylinders,
> thereafter no observations. Engine has been checked by
> Rotax dealer on ignition and carb balancing, nothing
> found. Any suggestions ?
>
This sounds like the problem I had which took me 9 months
of fiddling to solve.
The fuel pipe to a carb (port in my case) was too close to
the exhaust manifold and the insulation around it melted,
allowing exhaust heat onto the pipe, The stainless steel
covering then conducted the heat up inside the insulation.
Firstly change the direction of the banjos on the carb.
Point them rearwards to keep the pipe away from the
exhaust. If this makes a difference arrange to get some
new unions made up (straight ones) so that the pipe can be
re-routed over the top pf the carb rather than underneath !
This solved it for me. Rotax firmly refused to believe
that this was the problem, but the fix solved it so I am
content with my solution !
While at full power there is plenty of fuel flow in the
pipe, the exhaust gets hot, but the flow is sufficient
that the heat doesn't affect the fuel. When you ease off
the fuel flow reduces butt the exhaust is (initially)
still hot so the fuel vaporaised and you get a misfire
until the exhaust cools, the fuel cools and then it is OK.
2 -3 seconds is about right !
Richard Holder who got really frsutrated with this, trying
everything, but then had a lateral thought and found this
problem.
HTH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
Congratulations Chuck. Looking forward to hearing more as your test flying
progresses.
Regards
Kingsley
Earthbound in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
>as of today I now have a real flying airplane
Chuck - congratulations!
I guess the momentous event took place at Georgetown (27K), and can
you let me have the name of the guy who was lucky enough to first fly
your aeroplane, please? (Your Club new-member pack with all the
updated info will be on its way in a couple of days!)
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (750 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
Greetings all,
Susan and I will be at Sun-N-Fun most likely on the 13th or 14th, depending
on the weather, although we plan to stay in Florida through at least the 15th
or the 16th and hopefully get some soaring in at Seminole Lake GP while we're
there. We'll be camping at a hang glider flight park called Wallaby Ranch near
the intersection of I-4 and Hwy 27. If anybody is interested in setting up a
meeting place, perhaps we could all meet for dinner one night or maybe
cocktails?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Soon to be N245E) (Sanding and filling and sanding and
filling........Just about to install windows too)
________________________________________________________________________________
I agree, we are planning to be at Sun n Fun 14th through 16th all the
way from sunny UK. So come on you local guy's put something
together...please
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Sun-N-Fun 2005
Greetings all,
Susan and I will be at Sun-N-Fun most likely on the 13th or 14th,
depending
on the weather, although we plan to stay in Florida through at least the
15th
or the 16th and hopefully get some soaring in at Seminole Lake GP while
we're
there. We'll be camping at a hang glider flight park called Wallaby
Ranch near
the intersection of I-4 and Hwy 27. If anybody is interested in setting
up a
meeting place, perhaps we could all meet for dinner one night or maybe
cocktails?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Soon to be N245E) (Sanding and filling and sanding and
filling........Just about to install windows too)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rudder cable routing |
Hi GR,
I, too, have the Graham tailwheel mod. I just finished installing my rudder
cables and also found the close proximity to my alum fuel lines. I think the
main concern is the rudder cables slapping around during turbulence.....and
even just normal use. I added nylon cable guides attached to the bottom of the
mass balance tower. This showed my the natural run for the cables. I then
added the 1/4" black tubing that is used for drip irrigation systems to places
where I wanted to prevent slapping. After slipping the tubing on and I simply
attached the tubing wherever it naturally sat when passing through the center
tunnel and support walls below the baggage bay. I attached them with a
Redux/flox mix. I also used turnbuckles to adjust the tension and rudder position.
These are between the rear of the baggage bay and mass balance tower. My
other set of turnbuckles are after the Graham bellcrank on the rear wall and
before the sternpost. This is to adjust the tailwheel so it points the same way
as the rudder.
If you would like some pix, I can send you some off Forum.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S power issue |
"Interesting" problem - valuable info on solution. Thanks!
Do any of you who have experienced this have a shield installed over the
exhaust pipes, to prevent direct radiation onto the banjos/fuel lines?
Regards,
Svein
A225 - XS Trigear - now in Norway (filling/sanding - can hardly believe I
have reached this stage!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Replacing Bushes |
From: | "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Hi - a quick question for all you experts!
I have a little wear in some of my (monowheel) undercarriage bushes so I'm going
to replace them.
How does one remove old bushes that have been "loctite'd" in? I've never had to
do this. Is there an easy way of removal or is it a pig of a job?! I'm thinking
particularly of the awkward access ones such as in the lower end of the
retraction arm lugs, high up in the tunnel!
Regards,
Jon
G-TERN
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Re: Europaowners Gallery |
Troy and List,
WRT your comment, have added my name to the title on my Europa Owners
site album to make it easier to locate. If you go to my main album and
click on the "Year #2, Q4 2003" contained album, you should be able to
locate the pics of my fuel line installation. I have used custom
Aeroquip 666 nylon hose from Aircraft Spruce.
<<>>>
>I was wondering if someone could include the builders' names on all of
the
>albums. I could not find these pictures.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
Chuck,
Congratulations on your FIRST FLIGHT!! Please keep us appraised of
your test flying as you move along.
Great flying!
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT |
Congratulations, Chuck!
Fair winds and Happy landings,
Ferg
Europa A064
----- Original Message -----
From: "CHUCK RHOADS" <cfrhoads(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: FIRST FLIGHT
|
|
| After working on a kit plane for 6 years I decided that it was time to do
something else, so as of today I now have a real flying airplane. My Europa
XS trike passed the FAA exam last week. My flight instructor took it up
today for the first time for 20 minutes. Everything was normal and it flies
well, Ill add more details as we get more testing done.
|
| I am using a GM Geo Metro 1300CC 4 cylinder engine that, with the tuned
exhaust, puts out 97 HP. The motor used a Raven reduction drive and a Power
Fin prop. Many different configurations have been tried before reaching a
satisfactory cooling arrangement. There are approximately 60 wires going to
the computer which controls ignition and the multiport fuel injection. This
arrangement also no longer needs a choke and is automatically altitude
compensated.
|
| Chuck Rhoads A100
|
| N246CR
|
|
| Chuck Rhoads
| cfrhoads(at)yahoo.com
| 104 Shuttle Dr.
| Georgetown, KY 40324
| (502) 867-7625
|
| ---------------------------------
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Replacing Bushes |
Jon
Heat will release redux BUT HEAT RISES SO DON'T GET INTO THE AIRCRAFT
STRUCTURE or you will have a bad hair day!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JonSmith
Subject: Europa-List: Replacing Bushes
Hi - a quick question for all you experts!
I have a little wear in some of my (monowheel) undercarriage bushes so
I'm going to replace them.
How does one remove old bushes that have been "loctite'd" in? I've
never had to do this. Is there an easy way of removal or is it a pig of
a job?! I'm thinking particularly of the awkward access ones such as in
the lower end of the retraction arm lugs, high up in the tunnel!
Regards,
Jon
G-TERN
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S power issue |
Svein
I have thought of doing this. Rotax make one that is used on the 914
regularly. With my Skydrive Carb Heaters it is not long enough. I bolts
under the flange of the carb throat mounting block.
I might be trying to design one. There are just so many little things
keeping me busy these days. How did I do any of this when I worked a 40
hour week????
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax 912S power issue
>
>
> "Interesting" problem - valuable info on solution. Thanks!
>
> Do any of you who have experienced this have a shield installed over the
> exhaust pipes, to prevent direct radiation onto the banjos/fuel lines?
>
> Regards,
> Svein
> A225 - XS Trigear - now in Norway (filling/sanding - can hardly believe I
> have reached this stage!)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Replacing Bushes |
JonSmith wrote:
>
>Hi - a quick question for all you experts!
>I have a little wear in some of my (monowheel) undercarriage bushes so I'm going
to replace them.
>How does one remove old bushes that have been "loctite'd" in? I've never had
to do this. Is there an easy way of removal or is it a pig of a job?! I'm thinking
particularly of the awkward access ones such as in the lower end of the
retraction arm lugs, high up in the tunnel!
>Regards,
>Jon
>G-TERN
>
>
>
Jon,
A Heat gun (paint stripper) should do the job, however, be careful not
to heat anything, too much, especially any of the composite...
--
Jeff - A055
Engine and prop to go...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S power issue |
Cliff,
There was a thread recently on this forum regarding heat shielding the
carbs. I did not copy any of it since I had then already made mine (having
reached same conclusion as you re. the 914 carb cups not being suitable for
912S w/carb heaters).
I made mine of thin s/s steel plate - 3 x 4 1/2 ", slightly curved along
short axis and edges folded back for added stiffness, brackets riveted
underneath for fixing the shield to the exhaust pipe by hose clamps. Not
intended as fuel drip pans, only shielding carbs and fuel lines from direct
exhaust pipe heat radiation. Looks good but NOT TESTED YET!
Will e-mail photos to you (realize I need to charge the camera battery
first!)
On the subject of fuel vapour: In addition to firesleeves on all fuel
lines, I have heat insulation sleeves (claimed to reflect 90% of the heat)
on all fuel and lube oil lines forward of firewall, being careful to extend
these sleeves to also cover the connectors (e.g. carb fuel banjos) as much
as possible. Purchased from Demon-Tweeks in the UK.
Regards,
Svein
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rotax 912 Power Problem |
From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
03/31/2005 05:57:05 PM,
Serialize complete at 03/31/2005 05:57:05 PM
Greetings all,
I too had issues with the sudden, not infrequent loss of power
combined with very rough vibration. After considerable time
and playing around with multiple tests, many hypotheses, and
and a number of "interesting" test flights, the problem became
clear and the solution while not ideal does work. I offer this
to the public database of problem/fixes:
Problem Sudden vibration, decreased RPM and power, occuring during
takeoff, climb, high power setting
Clues: Soot in engine compartment traceable to exhaust from #3
cylinder at the bottom (ball joint to muffler)
Cause: One of the exhaust pipe springs was quite weak and overly
extended. Independent movement of muffler sometimes left ball
joint ajar on inboard side of joint (away from view). This allowed
a stream of exhaust to blow directly against carb float bowl, boiling
the gas within and unbalancing the carbs(!!). Also melted CHT lead wire
from
Cylinder 3.
Fix: New spring from Europa in place (not sufficient by itself to cure
problem)
2) Muffler putty around joint (from NAPA Auto parts)
3) Blast shield made as 6061T6 0.063 Al plate horizontally surrounding
down
pipe, held down on spring supports by stainless hose clamp.
Leaks still seem to occur at times since there is a small amount of soot
on the bottom
of shield plate, but no engine symptoms have been observed.
Now, if only I could get my fuel Flow sensor data into my efis!
Ira, N224XS (nearing 100 hr flight time with service time per week
finally less than flying time!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Top hat and Console mods |
From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
Reposted From EuropaOwners
User ID gleinberger: I am having a bit of a problem fitting me into the plane -
I am planning on doing the Top Hat mod - although my firewall is the normal one
- so will have to extend it upward about 2 inches - and having looked at the
factory mods am wondering why they suggest moving the front up about two inches,
but not also move up the back - there is plenty of material for putting the
top shell about an inch or so further up - and thus avoid not angling the horizontal
tail as much - the only problem I see is that the rear bulkhead must
be higher. Any experience with the top hat mod?
I am also looking at making the center of the console a bit narrower - by cutting
out some additional space for my thighs so that the stick will move the full
11 inches left to right - my concern is keeping the strength in the center
console - it appears that the center console is quite critical to keeping the
cockpit from bending - any ideas on how to essentially narrow the console and
still keep the strength?[/quote]
Gary Leinberger
A237
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Europaowners Gallery |
From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
Links to individual photos in the gallery are very very long and email programs
tend to break the links. I've done some work to shorten the link names to peoples
albums but thats as far as I can take that little hack.
What does work rather well though is the gallery search feature.
From the main gallery page http://www.europaowners.org/gallery type "fuel line" in the search box and hit enter. That should get you around 12 hits and guide you to the albums containing those photos. That's why descriptions and titles are important....
The gallery is working it's way to 5000 build and flying photos... : )
Steved.
Remember the Forum and Gallery pages use two different databases and search engines......
Forum searches Forum, and Gallery searches Gallery
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Replacing Bushes |
From: | "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. (careful) heat it is then!
Cheers, Jon
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Re: USAF Loves Their Predators... Wants More |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: USAF Loves Their Predators... Wants More
|
| Any chance of getting our hands on one of their 914s? I understand they
have
| a few nice extras on them :-)
|
| Cheers,
Jeremy,
Seems to me I heard they were encased in 3 or 4 levels of
compression to achieve the altitudes desired (70,000?), and that only about
15% of the power was used for airspeed. The rest was all employed in
compression............
Any other rumours like that?
Ferg
A064 mono 914
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | USAF Loves Their Predators... Wants More |
I heard they were fuel-injected, twin-turbo, intercooled. Probably not a lot
in common with the version we buy other than a few bolts and the odd cover!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Subject: Re: Europa-List: USAF Loves Their Predators... Wants More
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: USAF Loves Their Predators... Wants More
|
| Any chance of getting our hands on one of their 914s? I understand they
have
| a few nice extras on them :-)
|
| Cheers,
Jeremy,
Seems to me I heard they were encased in 3 or 4 levels of
compression to achieve the altitudes desired (70,000?), and that only about
15% of the power was used for airspeed. The rest was all employed in
compression............
Any other rumours like that?
Ferg
A064 mono 914
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | RE: Replacing Bushes |
----- Original Message -----
From: "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net>
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
| Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. (careful) heat it is then!
| Cheers, Jon
Jon,
Let us know how it went when you're done...... It could come
upon us too!
Regards, Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Post curing befor filling or after? |
Group,
the subject line says it all. I am wondering if you should or don't have to
post cure before filling the weaves. It seems to me that it make sense to
first fill the weaves and then post cure everything together . I am still
planning to use the kit supplied Expacell. (I do not want to start another
discussion about Expancell and Superfill here).
I wonder what the groups opinion on this subject post curing before filling
is. If it is required, do you have to post cure before filling and after
filling and sanding?
Thanks
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear
Detroit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
> | Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. (careful) heat it is
> then!
> | Cheers, Jon
>
> Jon,
> Let us know how it went when you're done...... It could come
> upon us too!
> Regards, Ferg
> A064
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Replacing Bushes |
A better/more careful way of applying the heat is to heat-up separately a
piece of metal that is a close fit in the bearing that is to be removed.
Inserting the heated metal into the bearing gets more heat more quickly to
the point that it is needed and less heat to surrounding components.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net>
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
>
> Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. (careful) heat it is then!
> Cheers, Jon
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Post curing befor filling or after? |
Michael
You have a very good question. I am sure you will get answers on both
sides.
I did my heat curing (what I did of it) before I did the filling. I think
there might be some setting and print-though while it is curing. The
"gassing" of the epoxy (if that is the correct term) would seem to be better
done with out the added filler thickness over the lay-ups.
Jus my thought.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Post curing befor filling or after?
>
> Group,
>
> the subject line says it all. I am wondering if you should or don't have
> to
> post cure before filling the weaves. It seems to me that it make sense to
> first fill the weaves and then post cure everything together . I am still
> planning to use the kit supplied Expacell. (I do not want to start another
> discussion about Expancell and Superfill here).
>
> I wonder what the groups opinion on this subject post curing before
> filling
> is. If it is required, do you have to post cure before filling and after
> filling and sanding?
>
> Thanks
>
> Michael Grass
> A266 Trigear
> Detroit
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
>
>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "JonSmith" <jon.smith680(at)tesco.net>
>> Subject: Europa-List: RE: Replacing Bushes
>> | Many thanks for the advice - much appreciated. (careful) heat it is
>> then!
>> | Cheers, Jon
>>
>> Jon,
>> Let us know how it went when you're done...... It could come
>> upon us too!
>> Regards, Ferg
>> A064
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
Subject: | RE: Replacing Bushes |
Jon,
This may be a bit late now but if you still have trouble removing the
bushes, try the following.
If the bushes were a firm or tight fit when installed, using a hacksaw (or
mini hacksaw blade) through the hole in the bush, carefully cut through the
bush lengthways being very careful not to cut into any of the parent
material around the bush. This will allow the compressive forces on the
bush to be relieved once heat is applied.
If you have access to a lathe, make a mandrel with a small shoulder on it
such that the reduced part of the mandrel fits neatly inside the bush, the
shoulder pushes on the end of the bush and the outside diameter of the
shoulder part is slightly less than the outside diameter of the bush.
After cutting the bush as aforementioned, place the mandrel in the bush and
heat it being careful not to heat the surroundings. (may need a shield to
stop this)
Once the mandrel is hot enough to soften the loctite, push on the mandrel to
remove the bush. You may need to devise some gadget to provide some
mechanical advantage to do this subject to where the bush is and how much
room you will have to work in.
Good luck.
Kingsley in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Post curing befor filling or after? |
Michael Grass wrote:
>
>Group,
>
>the subject line says it all. I am wondering if you should or don't have to
>post cure before filling the weaves. It seems to me that it make sense to
>first fill the weaves and then post cure everything together . I am still
>planning to use the kit supplied Expacell. (I do not want to start another
>discussion about Expancell and Superfill here).
>
>I wonder what the groups opinion on this subject post curing before filling
>is. If it is required, do you have to post cure before filling and after
>filling and sanding?
>
>Thanks
>
>Michael Grass
>A266 Trigear
>Detroit
>
>
>
>
In a word, both. I cured my fuselage before filling, then again,
after. After the second post cure, I found a few spots that had "moved"
substantially. Happened on one of the wings, too. After touching up
those spots and curing again, all is well...
--
Jeff - A055
Only FWF left to do...
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Removal of bushes |
From: | Christine and Peter Timm <cptimm(at)telus.net> |
Having just removed the bushes in my Europa Classic I have found it to be
very easy. I am talking about the four small bushes in the lower part of
the aluminum retraction arms. My method was as follows:
I used the liner of a wine carton as a heat shield by inflating it slightly
and then placing it against the fibreglas nearby. I then used a high
setting on my heat gun to heat the bushing very briefly (approx. 20-30
secs); it heats very rapidly. I previously made an extraction tool out of a
small carriage bolt by inserting it in an electric drill, running it over a
file in a vice until the head had the exact diameter required to pull the
bushing through the hole. A washer and nut completed the arrangement of
this tool which I then used to pull the heated bushing out very easily and
efficiently. (Hammering and sawing in this location is impossible.)
The new bushing, after cleaning of the opening, coated with Locktite was
pulled in using the small bolt tool which has now become part of my tool
inventory.
Hope this helps with your problem.
Peter Timm
Europa Classic #110
C-GIET British Columbia
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mono Wheel Brake Disk |
From: | Christine and Peter Timm <cptimm(at)telus.net> |
While conducting my Annual I discovered that the rotor on my wheel was quite
distorted (wobbly). I have removed it and taken it to a machine shop but
the distortion, caused through uneven heating, is too great to remove by
lathe. My question is, where are these rotors made or what type of steel
should I use to have a new rotor made? Thanks in advance for your
suggestions .
--
Cheers,
Peter Timm
Europa Classic Mono
C-GIET, Pemberton, British Columbia.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gillian and Charlie Laverty" <bb(at)baliscate.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Removal of bushes |
Gillian & Charlie
Baliscate House,
Tobermory ,Isle of Mull ,PA75 6QA
Tel 44(0)1688 302048
Fax 44(0)1688 302666
e-mail bb(at)baliscate.freeserve.co.uk
Just a brief message to all.
Charlie has a big smile today, Ivan Shaw performed the first flight of
Charlie's Classic (build no.60) mono, G-CLAV. After a few irritating but
minor early glitches, (not least the trailer designer obviously thought
Europas were gliders, we had to cut slots to get the propeller in!) we
loaded up G-CLAV and went gently down the road from Tobermory to Glen Forsa,
a beautiful glass strip with a very nice log cabin hotel run by Brendan
Walsh, late afternoon Ivan took off and explored the basic flight envelope
including stalls and 5000 rpm cruise. Stall was very slow and cruise was
pretty fast so we are anxiously looking forward to an oprtunity to
callibrate airspeeds. Handling was excellent.
Brendan offered us a drink at his bar and quietly produced a bottle of very
nice champagne. Magical day for us all, Charlie and his very patient wife
Gillian, myself after quite a few years of occasional working hollidays and
Ivan, who calmly used his wide experience of test flying to give us a
successful fulfilling day. Even the Western Islands weather was beautiful.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338 |
Hi all,
I have just got my 308 propeller with a new 338 controller back from Airmaster
this week. I flew it today for the first time and what a difference, the controller
is far more responsive and precise. A very worthwhile upgrade !!
I have noticed though that every time the controller commands a change that the
squelch on the radio breaks momentarily. Has any one else experienced this.
Any ideas on what to do ?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338 |
Paul
I had so much static on my radio at first that I did not notice. I fixed the
static and now I don't hear any noise.
The electric motor in the prop hub may take a little while for the brushes
to work in. This is probably what is generating the noise. I do not think
the electronic of the controller are making interference. You should be able
to test it on the ground using the manual mode and the engine not running.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
PS: True air speed with full fairings and speed kit all polished and tuned
up increased speed 8 knots.
>
> I have noticed though that every time the controller commands a change
> that the squelch on the radio breaks momentarily. Has any one else
> experienced this. Any ideas on what to do ?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Mono Wheel Brake Disk |
Peter
Don't forget the factory is fully back in business and supplying all parts
needed. I would think that supply from the factory would be much cheaper
than the real cost of making a disc from scratch.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christine
and Peter Timm
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Wheel Brake Disk
While conducting my Annual I discovered that the rotor on my wheel was quite
distorted (wobbly). I have removed it and taken it to a machine shop but
the distortion, caused through uneven heating, is too great to remove by
lathe. My question is, where are these rotors made or what type of steel
should I use to have a new rotor made? Thanks in advance for your
suggestions .
--
Cheers,
Peter Timm
Europa Classic Mono
C-GIET, Pemberton, British Columbia.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338 |
Cliff,
Thanks for your feedback. This noise is definitely the controller and only
is a "splat" of static when the controller light comes on the actuate the
pitch motor. The cables to the propeller are shielded and I simply
terminated them on the case of the controller, the first thing I am going to
try is to tie them back to my central earth buss..
Paul
(Glad to be flying again)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338
>
> Paul
>
> I had so much static on my radio at first that I did not notice. I fixed
> the
> static and now I don't hear any noise.
>
> The electric motor in the prop hub may take a little while for the brushes
> to work in. This is probably what is generating the noise. I do not
> think
> the electronic of the controller are making interference. You should be
> able
> to test it on the ground using the manual mode and the engine not running.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
> PS: True air speed with full fairings and speed kit all polished and tuned
> up increased speed 8 knots.
>
>
>>
>> I have noticed though that every time the controller commands a change
>> that the squelch on the radio breaks momentarily. Has any one else
>> experienced this. Any ideas on what to do ?
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Autopilot Installation |
There was a recent thread discussing the fitment of a Navaid autopilot -
fitment of the servo motor.
Several people asked for photos of my installation which I have now found.
If anyone would like copies please let me know.
It is the one where the servo is installed outside the seat support cavity,
directly under the pilots right thigh.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Ferrite Baloon and Subaru EJ22 |
From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
Repost from EuropaOwners until Email address processed on Matronics.
User Id: Jacques Point
Hi,
I wonder if one of you could give me an address were I could find this ferrite
balloon to be put around the Antenna cable. An address in Europe will be better
for me.
Many thanks
Also:
Hi everyone,
I am new here (registered today) and would like to know if one of you, mainly in
the US have installed Subaru EJ22 on their plane ?
All comment / remarks are most than welcome.
Thanks
Jacques POINT
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Europaowners Gallery |
From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
"Now you tell me... Do you know how much time that would take?! I must have a zillion
photos uploaded now. Any suggested short cuts?"
Yes! In any album you want to add comments. In the "admin options" pull down menu
choose "edit captions" you well get a window with all the photos in that album
as thumbnails and all the comment boxes. You and add comments, descriptions,
keywords what ever. You can cut and paste, This is much faster then adding
them one photo at a time. Just remember to save when your done....
Chat Later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Mono wheel brake disc |
Hi Peter,
I do not have your problem of distortion but I have noticed that my disc
is quite worn after about 400 hours and ~ 600 landings. It will probably
need replacement at some stage. I have previously bought a standard
Cleveland 500x5 pressure plate and a back plate to have available as
brake pad change out items and they work fine. The Cleveland part
numbers are #063-00500 and #064-00500 and are available from the A/C
Spruce catalogue. I suspect that the standard Cleveland 500x5 disc
(#164-17 listed at USD105.95) shown by A/C Spruce is also a change out
part for the Europa. Can anybody on the Europa-List confirm this?
Alternatively, Roger at roger@europa-aircraft.com gives very good
service for spare parts with airmail shipping to North America and will
probably have the item in stock.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina.
<<<<<<<<<
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Wheel Brake Disk From: Christine and Peter
Timm
While conducting my Annual I discovered that the rotor on my wheel was
quite distorted (wobbly). I have removed it and taken it to a machine
shop but the distortion, caused through uneven heating, is too great to
remove by lathe. My question is, where are these rotors made or what
type of steel should I use to have a new rotor made? Thanks in advance
for your suggestions .
Cheers, Peter Timm Europa Classic Mono C-GIET, Pemberton, British Columbia.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Thursby" <jthursby(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Mono Wheel Brake Disk |
I have one new original disk for somebody who needs it.
Jim Thursby
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christine
and Peter Timm
Subject: Europa-List: Mono Wheel Brake Disk
While conducting my Annual I discovered that the rotor on my wheel was quite
distorted (wobbly). I have removed it and taken it to a machine shop but
the distortion, caused through uneven heating, is too great to remove by
lathe. My question is, where are these rotors made or what type of steel
should I use to have a new rotor made? Thanks in advance for your
suggestions .
--
Cheers,
Peter Timm
Europa Classic Mono
C-GIET, Pemberton, British Columbia.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RE: Europaowners Gallery |
In a message dated 4/3/2005 9:21:06 AM Central Standard Time,
Post2Forum(at)comcast.net writes:
In the "admin options" pull down menu choose "edit captions" you well get a
window with all the photos in that album as thumbnails and all the comment
boxes. You and add comments, descriptions, keywords what ever. You can cut and
paste, This is much faster then adding them one photo at a time. Just remember
to save when your done....
OK... But after I hit Save and this screen come up.. Is it a bad thing???????
LMAO
Do you think it would it be best to put the description in the title or the
comment area?
Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in
/home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php on line 72
Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in
/home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php on line 72
Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in
/home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php on line 72
Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in
/home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php on line 72
Warning: Cannot add header information - headers already sent by (output
started at /home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php:72)
in /home/europaownerswww/public_html/modules/gallery/captionator.php on line 91
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338 |
Hi Paul
We've had exactly the same with our 912S+Airmaster. Airmaster say that a
software upgrade will cure it, and that Europa have got a copy. However,
that was before the EMIL situation all blew up and I haven't done anything
about it since. It is the controller.
Regards
Peter Grant
G-OGAN TriGear XS wings Kit 100
10 The Sidings, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 5UA, UK
Tel: 01507 523180 Fax: 01507 525888 Mobile: 07774 923160
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This email is intended for the sole use of the addressee. If you have
received this email in error, please contact the sender and
delete the message. I can accept no liability for misuse
of this email however caused. Outgoing emails are automatically scanned by
Norton Anti-Virus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338
Cliff,
Thanks for your feedback. This noise is definitely the controller and only
is a "splat" of static when the controller light comes on the actuate the
pitch motor. The cables to the propeller are shielded and I simply
terminated them on the case of the controller, the first thing I am going to
try is to tie them back to my central earth buss..
Paul
(Glad to be flying again)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Radio noise & Airmaster controller 338
>
> Paul
>
> I had so much static on my radio at first that I did not notice. I fixed
> the
> static and now I don't hear any noise.
>
> The electric motor in the prop hub may take a little while for the brushes
> to work in. This is probably what is generating the noise. I do not
> think
> the electronic of the controller are making interference. You should be
> able
> to test it on the ground using the manual mode and the engine not running.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
> PS: True air speed with full fairings and speed kit all polished and tuned
> up increased speed 8 knots.
>
>
>>
>> I have noticed though that every time the controller commands a change
>> that the squelch on the radio breaks momentarily. Has any one else
>> experienced this. Any ideas on what to do ?
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Europaowners Gallery |
From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
"OK... But after I hit Save and this screen come up.. Is it a bad thing???????
LMAO "
Hmmmm... My first guess would be, YES!
Not to worry though when I return from banging my head on this turbine I'm trying
to reassemble, I'll hit the gallery with my trusty code mallet. Should have
it sorted out some time after the 18th or so...
Chat later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Removal of bushes |
Congratulations Charlie.
Now you can join us on the Baltics Trip !
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gillian and
Charlie Laverty
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Removal of bushes
Gillian & Charlie
Baliscate House,
Tobermory ,Isle of Mull ,PA75 6QA
Tel 44(0)1688 302048
Fax 44(0)1688 302666
e-mail bb(at)baliscate.freeserve.co.uk
Just a brief message to all.
Charlie has a big smile today, Ivan Shaw performed the first flight of
Charlie's Classic (build no.60) mono, G-CLAV. After a few irritating but
minor early glitches, (not least the trailer designer obviously thought
Europas were gliders, we had to cut slots to get the propeller in!) we
loaded up G-CLAV and went gently down the road from Tobermory to Glen
Forsa,
a beautiful glass strip with a very nice log cabin hotel run by Brendan
Walsh, late afternoon Ivan took off and explored the basic flight
envelope
including stalls and 5000 rpm cruise. Stall was very slow and cruise was
pretty fast so we are anxiously looking forward to an oprtunity to
callibrate airspeeds. Handling was excellent.
Brendan offered us a drink at his bar and quietly produced a bottle of
very
nice champagne. Magical day for us all, Charlie and his very patient
wife
Gillian, myself after quite a few years of occasional working hollidays
and
Ivan, who calmly used his wide experience of test flying to give us a
successful fulfilling day. Even the Western Islands weather was
beautiful.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Autopilot Installation |
From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Thanks for the pictures Carl, as always a picture is better then a 1000
words. I've added them to the builders album on the europaowners website.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Subject: | Monowheel over center? |
Assembled undercarriage of XS Monowheel yesterday outside of aeroplane. When
gear is down, the LG08s are perhaps 1/32" over center when they contact only 1
spot on the very top of the stop on the UCMF.
Curious how much over center those flying have?
I can see bad things will happen if too much over center, but my gut feeling
is ~ 1/8"??
That would require either cutting through the cap on UCMF, or milling a pocket
on the LG08s.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
A-265
XS Monowheel
Juggling battles between instrument module and undercarriage at the moment.
Hint for 2+1/4" instruments so you need not fight this battle:
If you install a UMA Light Wedge, it pushes instrument back in panel and
slight decreases diameter. This nets to an instrument that unless viewed
straight on loses most of markings unless you move head to uncomfortable
position.
Since a Rotax Tach was included in my FWF, I figured I would use a light wedge
for it, and figured to be consistent would use a light wedge for MP and Diff
Airbox/FP. I sent back MP and Diff for exchange for internal EL, and ordered a
internal lit Tach as well.
Anyone need a New Rotax Brand Tach?
BTW 3+1/8 light wedges on altimeter, Winter ASI and Ilec vario seem to allow
fine viewing. Other local guy said he needed to purchase a 3+1/8 DG with
markings more towards center to allow use of light wedge.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr> |
Subject: | Autopilot Installation |
Hello Carl,
I am interested to see your navaid autopilot installation, please send
to me yours pictures
Thanks
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Carl
Pattinson
Envoy : dimanche 3 avril 2005 15:55
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Europa-List: Autopilot Installation
-->
There was a recent thread discussing the fitment of a Navaid autopilot -
fitment of the servo motor.
Several people asked for photos of my installation which I have now
found.
If anyone would like copies please let me know.
It is the one where the servo is installed outside the seat support
cavity,
directly under the pilots right thigh.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ROBERT LINDSAY" <rlindsa2(at)san.rr.com> |
Subject: | AIRCRAFT CONTROL DURING TAKEOFF |
I have to share this scary tale with you. It shows what can happen with just the
tiniest absence of vigilance. Perhaps it will help you avoid the careless
move I made recently.
I've been flying for over fifty years with thousands of hours in the air and hundreds
in various models of Europa, including a half dozen first flights.
While preparing for a solo flight in a tri-gear on a gusty day, I taxied downwind
for takeoff on runway 09 at Ramona (KRNM) in San Diego county, California.
Winds were about 060/20 kts and with little rudder effectiveness I used the brakes
for directional control. After pre takeoff checks (including control movement)
I twisted my body around in the cockpit to check for landing traffic.
As I did so, my right foot inadvertently came off the right rudder pedal and
was then resting against the firewall bulkhead.
The tower cleared me for takeoff and an immediate left turn after airborne. As
I taxied into takeoff position, I applied what I thought was full right rudder.
Not unexpected, considering the wind, right brake was needed to line up and
also during steady power increase for takeoff. What was surprising was the
rudder did not appear to become effective as I accelerated. Perhaps I was experiencing
a directional wind shift or a strong gust.
Lots of right brake was required, slowing my acceleration. Slowly approaching
unstick speed and not feeling I had control on the ground, I went full throttle
(Jabiru 3300 with climb prop) and rotated at minimum controllable airspeed to
get into the air where I was sure I could control things.
Wow, what a ride! The combination of not using any more right brake, the full
power left turning tendency and the strong weather-cocking wind resulted in an
exciting immediate heading change of about 45 degrees to port. On the flying
edge, I got airborne and passed between the control tower and a hangar, picking
up a few flowers on the way. I asked the tower if that left turn after takeoff
was immediate enough and also just what are they reading for current wind.
They replied it was about 060/20 kts and sensing something was wrong, did I
want an immediate landing. I, of course, declined. I first needed to find out
what was wrong with the rudder system. While climbing, the ball was out to
the right and I was pressing hard on the "right rudder". I checked the left
rudder and the ball went further right. In a flash I it all made sense--I had
been pushing hard on the firewall beneath my right foot!
LESSON LEARNED: Europa rudder pedals are of minimum size which allows us to extend
our legs between the pedals for comfort while cruising--a desirable feature--but........
So how will I prevent this from happening again? Easy. When I'm all lined up
ready to apply full takeoff power I will quickly pulse the rudder in both directions
to ensure proper foot placement.
You fly safely! Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | AIRCRAFT CONTROL DURING TAKEOFF |
Hi! Robert
Easily done also is using a foot brake differentially until adequate
rudder authority is available .....then wondering WHY THERE's A HUGE
DRAG EFFECT and YOU ARE PAST NORMAL ROTATION POINT ON THE TAKE OFF RUN
WITH THE ASI SEEMINGLY STUCK ON 40 KTS because you are still on the
brake and not the rudder ! IMHO this is the only reason the finger
brakes are superior to the foot brakes. However so long as you have your
brain engaged and you are able to co-ordinate the use of foot brakes OR
Rudder sometimes as a heel and toe effort using both then there's no
problem.
I need full rudder almost simultaneously as I hit the throttle on
departure and if the cross wind is with the "weathercock" effect of
engine torque I know I'm going to need some differential brake as well.
However it is almost better to fly off with only a right foot and forget
the left.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ROBERT
LINDSAY
Subject: Europa-List: AIRCRAFT CONTROL DURING TAKEOFF
I have to share this scary tale with you. It shows what can happen with
just the tiniest absence of vigilance. Perhaps it will help you avoid
the careless move I made recently.
I've been flying for over fifty years with thousands of hours in the air
and hundreds in various models of Europa, including a half dozen first
flights.
While preparing for a solo flight in a tri-gear on a gusty day, I taxied
downwind for takeoff on runway 09 at Ramona (KRNM) in San Diego county,
California. Winds were about 060/20 kts and with little rudder
effectiveness I used the brakes for directional control. After pre
takeoff checks (including control movement) I twisted my body around in
the cockpit to check for landing traffic. As I did so, my right foot
inadvertently came off the right rudder pedal and was then resting
against the firewall bulkhead.
The tower cleared me for takeoff and an immediate left turn after
airborne. As I taxied into takeoff position, I applied what I thought
was full right rudder. Not unexpected, considering the wind, right
brake was needed to line up and also during steady power increase for
takeoff. What was surprising was the rudder did not appear to become
effective as I accelerated. Perhaps I was experiencing a directional
wind shift or a strong gust.
Lots of right brake was required, slowing my acceleration. Slowly
approaching unstick speed and not feeling I had control on the ground, I
went full throttle (Jabiru 3300 with climb prop) and rotated at minimum
controllable airspeed to get into the air where I was sure I could
control things.
Wow, what a ride! The combination of not using any more right brake,
the full power left turning tendency and the strong weather-cocking wind
resulted in an exciting immediate heading change of about 45 degrees to
port. On the flying edge, I got airborne and passed between the control
tower and a hangar, picking up a few flowers on the way. I asked the
tower if that left turn after takeoff was immediate enough and also just
what are they reading for current wind. They replied it was about
060/20 kts and sensing something was wrong, did I want an immediate
landing. I, of course, declined. I first needed to find out what was
wrong with the rudder system. While climbing, the ball was out to the
right and I was pressing hard on the "right rudder". I checked the left
rudder and the ball went further right. In a flash I it all made
sense--I had been pushing hard on the firewall beneath my right foot!
LESSON LEARNED: Europa rudder pedals are of minimum size which allows
us to extend our legs between the pedals for comfort while cruising--a
desirable feature--but........
So how will I prevent this from happening again? Easy. When I'm all
lined up ready to apply full takeoff power I will quickly pulse the
rudder in both directions to ensure proper foot placement.
You fly safely! Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Subject: | Re: Removal of bushes |
>Ivan Shaw performed the first flight of
>Charlie's Classic (build no.60) mono, G-CLAV
Charlie, Gillian - many congratulations - your perseverance is
rewarded at last!
Now my usual query - what was the empty weight? (And I suppose I dare
not ask what the total building hours were???)
Expect to see you at Kemble!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (750 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/01/05 |
>I wonder what the groups opinion on this subject post curing before filling
>is. If it is required, do you have to post cure before filling and after
>filling and sanding?
>
>Thanks
>
>Michael Grass
Simple theory, if you post cure befoe, the filler won't bond as well. So
imho post cure after.
Graham
still basking in the glow of Charlie Laverty's smile. He flew today RH seat
for the first time
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 04/01/05 |
> Simple theory, if you post cure befoe, the filler won't bond
> as well. So imho post cure after.
> Graham
That's a new one on me! Postcuring raises the glass transition
temperature...only. At any Tg, if fully cured (like after a couple
weeks), adhesion is your basic "tooth adhesion," enhanced by abrasion
of the surface, no?
At risk of yet another SuperFil thread, I found that removal of that
stuff from chrome-shiny metal spatulas was a chore -- adheres
tenaciously. But epoxy laminating resin with similarly no abraded
surface -- just bend the tool and the stuff pops right off. :-)
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Aileron alignment |
Having not had the pleasure (and headaches) of building G-MFHI, I obviously know
a lot less than most of you guys on here about the way the rigging should be
set up and wonder if someone can give me the answer to the following?
When one aileron is set to neutral ie exactly in line with the bit that sticks
out at the wing tip, the other aileron tip is about 15mm out of neutral. Is this
normal (doesnt sound it to me). The aeroplane seems to fly fine a very slight
tendency for it to want to turn right maybe but nothing dramatic.
Any opinions gratefully received.
Peter
-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.ntlworld.com
virus-checked by McAfee
visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
Bob wrote "I have to share this scary tale with you. It shows what can happen
with just the tiniest absence of vigilance. Perhaps it will help you avoid the
careless move I made recently.
I've been flying for over fifty years with thousands of hours in the air and hundreds
in various models of Europa, including a half dozen first flights.
While preparing for a solo flight in a tri-gear on a gusty day, I taxied downwind
for takeoff on runway 09 at Ramona (KRNM) in San Diego county, California.
Winds were about 060/20 kts and with little rudder effectiveness I used the brakes
for directional control. After pre takeoff checks (including control movement)I
twisted my body around in the cockpit to check for landing traffic. As
I did so, my right foot inadvertently came off the right rudder pedal and was
then resting against the firewall bulkhead.
The tower cleared me for takeoff and an immediate left turn after airborne. As
I taxied into takeoff position, I applied what I thought was full right rudder.
Not unexpected, considering the wind, right brake was needed to line up and
also during steady power increase for takeoff. What was surprising was the rudder
did not appear to become effective as I accelerated. Perhaps I was experiencing
a directional wind shift or a strong gust.
Lots of right brake was required, slowing my acceleration. Slowly approaching
unstick speed and not feeling I had control on the ground, I went full throttle(Jabiru
3300 with climb prop) and rotated at minimum controllable airspeed to
get into the air where I was sure I could control things.
Wow, what a ride! The combination of not using any more right brake, the full
power left turning tendency and the strong weather-cocking wind resulted in an
exciting immediate heading change of about 45 degrees to port. On the flying
edge, I got airborne and passed between the control tower and a hangar, picking
up a few flowers on the way. I asked the tower if that left turn after takeoff
was immediate enough and also just what are they reading for current wind.
They replied it was about 060/20 kts and sensing something was wrong, did I
want an immediate landing. I, of course, declined. I first needed to find out
what was wrong with the rudder system. While climbing, the ball was just to the
right and I was pressing hard on the "right rudder". I checked the left rudder
and the ball went further right. In a flash I it all made sense--I had been
pushing hard on the firewall beneath my right foot!
LESSON LEARNED: Europa rudder pedals are of minimum size which allows us to extend
our legs between the pedals for comfort while cruising--a desirable feature--but........
So how will I prevent this from happening again? Easy. When I'm all lined up
ready to apply full takeoff power I will quickly pulse the rudder in both directions
to ensure proper foot placement.
You fly safely! Bob"
I have heard of a similar story whereby the pilot's foot got wedged between the
top of the foot-well and the rudder pedal thus limiting application of the rudder
pedal. I have also heard of stories were one of the rudder return springs
came off in flight. Armed with those stories I have from day one always pulsed
the rudder pedals as you suggest prior to takeoff and also on final. With
a mono-wheel you do not want to attempt a takeoff/landing without verifying you
have directional control via the rudder.
Thanks for sharing your story and glad it worked out to be a happy ending.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
N28ET Mono-Classic 914
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Cliff Shaw visiting the UK in June |
HI, Europa friends,
Cliff and Betty Shaw of Wile E. Coyote/N229WC fame will be over in the UK in
June and will be stopping with me for a few nights (at this stage 22nd and
23rd look likely). It would be really nice to have a US-UK Europa gathering,
so we thought it would be a good idea if I hosted a =91Europa builders/fliers
evening=92 then. Likely format is good conversation, a buffet and probably a
few drinks for the non-drivers!
I live in Steeple Aston, north Oxfordshire =96 between Oxford, Banbury and
Bicester - close to M40 Jns 9 and 10.
If you=92d like to meet Cliff and enjoy a chat about Europas, please let me
know and I=92ll arrange details with you off-Forum.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer(at)quicknet.nl> |
Subject: | Did you lock the door today ? |
Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake, having a
passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take long to
realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually departed the
aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except for a
lot of noise due to the wind.
After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock at the
forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this seems to
be a frequent observation.
Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a small
light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by the eye.
A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to get the
parts over even this week !!
Cheers
Sven den Boer
A168 (Cabrio)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Just curious Sven,
When the door departed, where did the separation take place. Was it
right at the hinge or did the bolts pull out of the holes. I have been
working on painting my doors and have been considering a fix for this
worry that a cozy builder used. He placed an inside secondary latch.
I'm not sure if this is legal because it cant open from the outside,
but it would solve any worries.
Jeff
A258
On Apr 5, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Sven den Boer wrote:
>
>
> Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
> After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake,
> having a
> passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
> After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take
> long to
> realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually departed
> the
> aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
> The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except
> for a
> lot of noise due to the wind.
> After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
> investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock at
> the
> forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
> Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this
> seems to
> be a frequent observation.
> Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a small
> light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by
> the eye.
>
> A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to get
> the
> parts over even this week !!
>
> Cheers
>
> Sven den Boer
> A168 (Cabrio)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Sven Hi!
Re. Your quick conversion Cabrio!
Our Inspector here in the West Country (UK) is a really great old boy
Aircraft Designer and Pilot. He suspected the aft Door bolt of the Europa
and made Paddy Clarke and myself fit micro switches to indicate rear shoot
bolt engaged.
Very simple but effective solution with 'Door Open' sign in front panel.
When he tested the Doors his point was that it is impossible to shut them
and be sure both shoot bolts are engaged without real care and particularly
once seated in Aircraft. We both also fitted rear internal Door pull
handles.
Hope you get back in air very soon.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron alignment |
The important thing is to ensure the ailerons are set up in their correct
attitude in relation to the wing chord, as detailed in the builders manual,
irrespective of whether they line up with the wing tips. Also, the downgoing
aileron should hit the control stop first, to prevent the aileron
counterbalance weight hitting the underside of the top wing skin. If the
tips don't line up then maybe the tips were installed incorrectly, but it is
of secondary importance.
I find that the prevailing temperature makes the alignment change; on hot
days the tips don't align, on cold days they do!
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron alignment
>
> Having not had the pleasure (and headaches) of building G-MFHI, I
obviously know a lot less than most of you guys on here about the way the
rigging should be set up and wonder if someone can give me the answer to the
following?
>
> When one aileron is set to neutral ie exactly in line with the bit that
sticks out at the wing tip, the other aileron tip is about 15mm out of
neutral. Is this normal (doesnt sound it to me). The aeroplane seems to fly
fine a very slight tendency for it to want to turn right maybe but nothing
dramatic.
>
> Any opinions gratefully received.
>
> Peter
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> Email sent from www.ntlworld.com
> virus-checked by McAfee
> visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: Europa Club renewal |
Here's a plea from a Europa Club member in southwest England,
received with his subscription renewal confirmation message:
>From: "Ron Andrews" <ronandrews(at)freeuk.com>
>To: "Europa Club subs renewal"
>Subject: Re: Europa Club renewal
>Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 16:41:58 +0100
>ago,know of
>anyone in this area that has the occasional spare seat ?!!
I'm not sure if Ron subscribes to the Matronics list, but if anyone
can offer him a Europa trip, please get in touch with him direct on
He's based at Dunkeswell, so if you are planning to call in there,
please get in touch with Ron in advance and at least say hello!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (750 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Sven den Boer wrote:
>
>Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
>After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake, having a
>passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
>After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take long to
>realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually departed the
>aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
>The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except for a
>lot of noise due to the wind.
>After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
>investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock at the
>forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
>Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this seems to
>be a frequent observation.
>Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a small
>light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by the eye.
>
>A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to get the
>parts over even this week !!
>
>Cheers
>
>Sven den Boer
>A168 (Cabrio)
>
>
>
This is exactly why I installed the pull handles on the inside/rear of
the doors. It enables me to be sure the door is properly secured...
--
Jeff - A055
FWF left to do...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer(at)quicknet.nl> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Jeff,
The hinges sheared right in the middle.
Cheers
Sven
----- Original Message -----
From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
> Just curious Sven,
> When the door departed, where did the separation take place. Was it
> right at the hinge or did the bolts pull out of the holes. I have been
> working on painting my doors and have been considering a fix for this
> worry that a cozy builder used. He placed an inside secondary latch.
> I'm not sure if this is legal because it cant open from the outside,
> but it would solve any worries.
> Jeff
> A258
> On Apr 5, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Sven den Boer wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
> > After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake,
> > having a
> > passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
> > After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take
> > long to
> > realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually departed
> > the
> > aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
> > The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except
> > for a
> > lot of noise due to the wind.
> > After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
> > investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock at
> > the
> > forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
> > Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this
> > seems to
> > be a frequent observation.
> > Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a small
> > light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by
> > the eye.
> >
> > A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to get
> > the
> > parts over even this week !!
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Sven den Boer
> > A168 (Cabrio)
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale" <gdh(at)isp.com> |
Subject: | Re: AIRCRAFT CONTROL DURING TAKEOFF |
Bob,
Scary is right! Glad you missed the tower.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "ROBERT LINDSAY" <rlindsa2(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Europa-List: AIRCRAFT CONTROL DURING TAKEOFF
>
> I have to share this scary tale with you. It shows what can happen with
> just the tiniest absence of vigilance. Perhaps it will help you avoid the
> careless move I made recently.
>
> I've been flying for over fifty years with thousands of hours in the air
> and hundreds in various models of Europa, including a half dozen first
> flights.
>
> While preparing for a solo flight in a tri-gear on a gusty day, I taxied
> downwind for takeoff on runway 09 at Ramona (KRNM) in San Diego county,
> California. Winds were about 060/20 kts and with little rudder
> effectiveness I used the brakes for directional control. After pre
> takeoff checks (including control movement) I twisted my body around in
> the cockpit to check for landing traffic. As I did so, my right foot
> inadvertently came off the right rudder pedal and was then resting against
> the firewall bulkhead.
>
> The tower cleared me for takeoff and an immediate left turn after
> airborne. As I taxied into takeoff position, I applied what I thought was
> full right rudder. Not unexpected, considering the wind, right brake was
> needed to line up and also during steady power increase for takeoff. What
> was surprising was the rudder did not appear to become effective as I
> accelerated. Perhaps I was experiencing a directional wind shift or a
> strong gust.
>
> Lots of right brake was required, slowing my acceleration. Slowly
> approaching unstick speed and not feeling I had control on the ground, I
> went full throttle (Jabiru 3300 with climb prop) and rotated at minimum
> controllable airspeed to get into the air where I was sure I could control
> things.
>
> Wow, what a ride! The combination of not using any more right brake, the
> full power left turning tendency and the strong weather-cocking wind
> resulted in an exciting immediate heading change of about 45 degrees to
> port. On the flying edge, I got airborne and passed between the control
> tower and a hangar, picking up a few flowers on the way. I asked the
> tower if that left turn after takeoff was immediate enough and also just
> what are they reading for current wind. They replied it was about 060/20
> kts and sensing something was wrong, did I want an immediate landing. I,
> of course, declined. I first needed to find out what was wrong with the
> rudder system. While climbing, the ball was out to the right and I was
> pressing hard on the "right rudder". I checked the left rudder and the
> ball went further right. In a flash I it all made sense--I had been
> pushing hard on the firewall beneath my right foot!
>
>
> LESSON LEARNED: Europa rudder pedals are of minimum size which allows us
> to extend our legs between the pedals for comfort while cruising--a
> desirable feature--but........
> So how will I prevent this from happening again? Easy. When I'm all
> lined up ready to apply full takeoff power I will quickly pulse the rudder
> in both directions to ensure proper foot placement.
>
> You fly safely! Bob
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor |
Guys,
A quick one for those who have been there, done that=85
Can anyone give me the approximate clearance between the lowest point in the
vee of the flap drive cross tube FL15 and the fuselage floor in both the
flaps-retracted and flaps-fully-down positions?
(For those wondering why I=92m asking, I=92m trying to work out how to fit my
autopilot pitch servo and it would be handy to run its pushrod under the
flap drive arm, if there is room.)
Thanks and regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr> |
Subject: | WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000 |
Hello Tim,
Is it possible to send to me a PFA document concerning your propeller?
I have some problems with French administration...
Thanks
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Houlihan,Tim
Envoy : mardi 29 mars 2005 23:34
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
-->
I have recently taken delivery of an SR2000 prop for my Europa Classic,
but no flight details yet.
Woodcomp have developed a spinner to suit the Rotax powered classic
aircraft and I must say it looks great. At least one other classic owner
has ordered a Woodcomp so we can expect some news soon.
regards
Tim Houlihan
No 10 G-BZTH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mau11
Subject: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
I heard a Europa builders buy this propeller in UK.
Do you have flight news?
Do you have a PFA documents to install this propeller with a 912 engine
on a Europa monowheel?
Thank you
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY N=B0145
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor |
Jeremy
Where the flap cross tube is depends upon where the main wing pins were
drilled in your cockpit module. Mine were high - I had to make bulge in the
top of my extended baggage bay console to make room for the flap drive
rod-end! And I could only with difficulty sight accross under the fuse to
set the bearings.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor
>
> Guys,
>
> A quick one for those who have been there, done that=85
>
> Can anyone give me the approximate clearance between the lowest point in
the
> vee of the flap drive cross tube FL15 and the fuselage floor in both the
> flaps-retracted and flaps-fully-down positions?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Did you lock the door today ? |
Hi! Sven.
That all sounds somewhat of an important item of failure! Was there any
likelihood of the hinges being maligned at all and in a position of
stress when the door was finally closed down?
Have you any feed back as to the situation with the other door hinges?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sven den
Boer
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
Jeff,
The hinges sheared right in the middle.
Cheers
Sven
----- Original Message -----
From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
> Just curious Sven,
> When the door departed, where did the separation take place. Was it
> right at the hinge or did the bolts pull out of the holes. I have been
> working on painting my doors and have been considering a fix for this
> worry that a cozy builder used. He placed an inside secondary latch.
> I'm not sure if this is legal because it cant open from the outside,
> but it would solve any worries.
> Jeff
> A258
> On Apr 5, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Sven den Boer wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
> > After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake,
> > having a
> > passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
> > After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take
> > long to
> > realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually
departed
> > the
> > aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
> > The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except
> > for a
> > lot of noise due to the wind.
> > After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
> > investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock
at
> > the
> > forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
> > Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this
> > seems to
> > be a frequent observation.
> > Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a
small
> > light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by
> > the eye.
> >
> > A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to
get
> > the
> > parts over even this week !!
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Sven den Boer
> > A168 (Cabrio)
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Actually Bob, I was told the reason the kit comes with the aluminum
hinges was that they will sheer off should the canopy come open in
flight. If I was to bail out for any reason I would want them to sheer
off in flight. Thats why I ask where they failed. Sounds like they
failed correctly.
Jeff
A258
On Apr 6, 2005, at 9:53 AM, R.C.Harrison wrote:
>
>
> Hi! Sven.
> That all sounds somewhat of an important item of failure! Was there any
> likelihood of the hinges being maligned at all and in a position of
> stress when the door was finally closed down?
> Have you any feed back as to the situation with the other door hinges?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sven den
> Boer
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> The hinges sheared right in the middle.
>
> Cheers
>
> Sven
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
>>
>> Just curious Sven,
>> When the door departed, where did the separation take place. Was it
>> right at the hinge or did the bolts pull out of the holes. I have been
>
>> working on painting my doors and have been considering a fix for this
>> worry that a cozy builder used. He placed an inside secondary latch.
>> I'm not sure if this is legal because it cant open from the outside,
>> but it would solve any worries.
>> Jeff
>> A258
>> On Apr 5, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Sven den Boer wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
>>> After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake,
>>> having a
>>> passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
>>> After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take
>>> long to
>>> realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually
> departed
>>> the
>>> aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
>>> The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except
>>> for a
>>> lot of noise due to the wind.
>>> After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
>>> investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock
> at
>>> the
>>> forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
>>> Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this
>>> seems to
>>> be a frequent observation.
>>> Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a
> small
>>> light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by
>>> the eye.
>>>
>>> A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to
> get
>>> the
>>> parts over even this week !!
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Sven den Boer
>>> A168 (Cabrio)
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Houlihan,Tim" <tim.houlihan(at)oce.co.uk> |
Subject: | Did you lock the door today ? |
Bob
I think that the original and important area of failure was probably the
door latches undoing , whatever the reason !.
The hinges only failed when grossly overloaded by the door being taken by
the 100Kns or so airflow.
At least this way you do not have a repair to the fuselage attachments to
contend with, now if only you could find the door !! :<)
Tim Houlihan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of R.C.Harrison
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
Hi! Sven.
That all sounds somewhat of an important item of failure! Was there any
likelihood of the hinges being maligned at all and in a position of
stress when the door was finally closed down?
Have you any feed back as to the situation with the other door hinges?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sven den
Boer
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
Jeff,
The hinges sheared right in the middle.
Cheers
Sven
----- Original Message -----
From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor |
Bob,
Many thanks for your email - I didnt realise they are so variable.
Can anyone with an XS kit with a number around 537 comment? Or even better,
measure up for me!
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JR (Bob) Gowing
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor
Jeremy
Where the flap cross tube is depends upon where the main wing pins were
drilled in your cockpit module. Mine were high - I had to make bulge in the
top of my extended baggage bay console to make room for the flap drive
rod-end! And I could only with difficulty sight accross under the fuse to
set the bearings.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor
>
> Guys,
>
> A quick one for those who have been there, done that=85
>
> Can anyone give me the approximate clearance between the lowest point in
the
> vee of the flap drive cross tube FL15 and the fuselage floor in both the
> flaps-retracted and flaps-fully-down positions?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flap drive tube clearance to fuselage floor |
Jeremy Davey wrote:
>
>Can anyone with an XS kit with a number around 537 comment? Or even better,
>measure up for me!
>
>Kind regards,
>Jeremy
>
>
>
>
Jeremy,
On A055 (I don't know how that corrolates with the European numbering -
around 1999) the bottom of the "U" is approximately 1" from the floor,
when the flaps are fully down. Hope this helps...
--
Jeff - A055
FWF left to do...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr> |
Subject: | Re: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000 |
salut Michel
Je pense que tu as seulement deux choses faire pour faire voler ta Woodcomp
Obenir d'Europa un papier reconnaissant cette helice comme une option montable
sur l'europa. C'est une piece comme une autre!
Avertir ton controleur avec copie du document precedent
Il ne faut surtout pas leur demander le droit de monter cette helice car dans ce
cas, ne la connaissant pas il vont ouvrir le parapluie et tout sera bloqu.Par
ailleurs cette modification est de la responsabilit du constructeur comme dit
dans le nouveau document DGAC/GSAC qui traite des CNRA CNSK. . Ref RP-42-50
. Va voir le 6.1.
Si tu n'as pas ce document je peux te le passer
JP
PS Le document du PFA peut sans doute aider mais ce serait mieux que le constructeur
Europa s'engage
mau11 wrote:
Hello Tim,
Is it possible to send to me a PFA document concerning your propeller?
I have some problems with French administration...
Thanks
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Houlihan,Tim
Envoy : mardi 29 mars 2005 23:34
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
-->
I have recently taken delivery of an SR2000 prop for my Europa Classic,
but no flight details yet.
Woodcomp have developed a spinner to suit the Rotax powered classic
aircraft and I must say it looks great. At least one other classic owner
has ordered a Woodcomp so we can expect some news soon.
regards
Tim Houlihan
No 10 G-BZTH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mau11
Subject: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
I heard a Europa builders buy this propeller in UK.
Do you have flight news?
Do you have a PFA documents to install this propeller with a 912 engine
on a Europa monowheel?
Thank you
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY N=B0145
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Subject: | Size of Airmaster Spinner on 914? |
What choice of Airmaster spinner did those with monowheel XS and 914UL choose?
Site shows 8" , 10" , 11" Aluminium and Europa Classic Composite.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Size of Airmaster Spinner on 914? |
From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
Ron,
>> What choice of Airmaster spinner did those with monowheel XS and
914UL choose?
You don't get a choice with the XS! The Airmaster XS spinner is the same
shape as the Europa supplied XS spinner. That's because they borrowed my
XS fibreglass spinner, took it down to a company that makes aluminium
spinners and created the spin form from that.
In fact you'll now find around 30 different aircraft types flying round
with Europa XS spinners on the front!
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
The hinges are one of the weak design areas of the Europa. I had an
identical experience to Sven, but mine was on my first flight. At 300 feet
on takeoff, the pilot side door departed the aircraft. The hinges are so
weak that you dare not even do an engine run-up with the door open, or they
will blow off their hinges. If you remember to firmly latch both doors,
both front and rear shoot bolts, any time the engine is running, you'll not
have any problems. Forget once, and you've lost a door.
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
> Hi! Sven.
> That all sounds somewhat of an important item of failure! Was there any
> likelihood of the hinges being maligned at all and in a position of
> stress when the door was finally closed down?
> Have you any feed back as to the situation with the other door hinges?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sven den
> Boer
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> The hinges sheared right in the middle.
>
> Cheers
>
> Sven
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
>>
>> Just curious Sven,
>> When the door departed, where did the separation take place. Was it
>> right at the hinge or did the bolts pull out of the holes. I have been
>
>> working on painting my doors and have been considering a fix for this
>> worry that a cozy builder used. He placed an inside secondary latch.
>> I'm not sure if this is legal because it cant open from the outside,
>> but it would solve any worries.
>> Jeff
>> A258
>> On Apr 5, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Sven den Boer wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Saturday april 2nd, a nice day for a ride with beautiful weather.
>> > After take off, turning out of the circuit and towards the lake,
>> > having a
>> > passenger onboard, a ride over water is always a bit more smooth.
>> > After 15 minutes of flight a Whoosh sound was noted, I did not take
>> > long to
>> > realize that the pilot door had disappeared and had actually
> departed
>> > the
>> > aircraft. Was I glad being over water.
>> > The aircraft was undammaged and flying it was not different, except
>> > for a
>> > lot of noise due to the wind.
>> > After an uneventfull landing and a couple of days of thinking and
>> > investigating this mishap, it is most likely that the door did lock
> at
>> > the
>> > forward position, but the aft locking pin was outside the fuselage.
>> > Being a quite new Europa flyer I have been asking around and this
>> > seems to
>> > be a frequent observation.
>> > Now working on a solution, probabely a set of microswitches and a
> small
>> > light will do the trick, since it is almost impossible to verify by
>> > the eye.
>> >
>> > A thanks to Andy of Europa, who responded quickly and is trying to
> get
>> > the
>> > parts over even this week !!
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> >
>> > Sven den Boer
>> > A168 (Cabrio)
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr> |
Subject: | WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000 |
Peux-tu me passer le document RP-42-50 en question, je ne l'ai pas.
Merci.
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de NEEL Jean
Philippe
Envoy : mercredi 6 avril 2005 21:21
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: RE : Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
-->
salut Michel
Je pense que tu as seulement deux choses faire pour faire voler ta
Woodcomp
Obenir d'Europa un papier reconnaissant cette helice comme une option
montable sur l'europa. C'est une piece comme une autre!
Avertir ton controleur avec copie du document precedent
Il ne faut surtout pas leur demander le droit de monter cette helice car
dans ce cas, ne la connaissant pas il vont ouvrir le parapluie et tout
sera bloqu.Par ailleurs cette modification est de la responsabilit du
constructeur comme dit dans le nouveau document DGAC/GSAC qui traite des
CNRA CNSK. . Ref RP-42-50 . Va voir le 6.1.
Si tu n'as pas ce document je peux te le passer
JP
PS Le document du PFA peut sans doute aider mais ce serait mieux que le
constructeur Europa s'engage mau11 wrote:
Hello Tim,
Is it possible to send to me a PFA document concerning your propeller? I
have some problems with French administration... Thanks
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Houlihan,Tim Envoy : mardi 29 mars 2005 23:34
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
-->
I have recently taken delivery of an SR2000 prop for my Europa Classic,
but no flight details yet.
Woodcomp have developed a spinner to suit the Rotax powered classic
aircraft and I must say it looks great. At least one other classic owner
has ordered a Woodcomp so we can expect some news soon.
regards
Tim Houlihan
No 10 G-BZTH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mau11
Subject: Europa-List: WOODCOMP Kremen Propeller SR2000
I heard a Europa builders buy this propeller in UK.
Do you have flight news?
Do you have a PFA documents to install this propeller with a 912 engine
on a Europa monowheel?
Thank you
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY N=B0145
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Garry,
As a point of interest, how are your gas struts attached ? As per the
original Europa instructions or do you have the strut attached approx half
way up the door ?
Regards
Kingsley in Oz
> The hinges are so weak that you dare not even do an engine run-up
> with the door open, or they will blow off their hinges.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Subject: | Europa Club newsletter & subscriptions |
Because I've had a few queries recently, just thought I'd better do a
broadcast to clarify the situation and save having to write many
individual replies.
Newsletter:
The March 2005 issue (#44) of The Europa Flyer is delayed in
publication. Our worthy Editor also has a day job, which has recently
taken him abroad and prevented him getting the newsletter put
together to the usual schedule. We hope it will be ready in the next
week or two, and I'm sure it will be worth waiting for.
Subscriptions:
Last month I e-mailed subscription reminders to a number of Europa
Club members. I deliberately excluded those who are known to have set
up a Standing Order. The aim was to make renewal quick & convenient
for those (mostly overseas members) who pay by credit card. If you
didn't get an e-mail reminder, don't panic! You (and everyone else)
will get a paper form enclosed with EF44 showing the status of your
membership and inviting you to renew your subscription if you haven't
already done so.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (750 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Kingsley,
My Europa was completed in 1999 and the struts are per the original
instructions............mounted in the upper aft corner of the door. The
constant pressure of the strut when the door is closed causes a slow
deformation of the door such that the corners stand proud of the fuselage.
I've thought about changing to the "new" configuration for the struts, but
simply have been too lazy to get around to it.
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
> Garry,
>
> As a point of interest, how are your gas struts attached ? As per the
> original Europa instructions or do you have the strut attached approx half
> way up the door ?
>
> Regards
> Kingsley in Oz
>
>> The hinges are so weak that you dare not even do an engine run-up
>> with the door open, or they will blow off their hinges.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
Subject: | Did you lock the door today ? |
Garry,
You said:
> My Europa was completed in 1999 and the struts are per the original
instructions............mounted in the upper aft corner of the door.
Thank you for letting me know. My thoughts were that with the original
attachment (as I understand yours is), there is considerable mechanical
advantage around the gas strut attach point such that when the door is
forced upwards when the strut is fully extended, the rear hinge is
placed under a lot of load.
With the higher position of the attach point as it is with the alternate
positioning of the strut, the load on the rear hinge would be markedly
reduced under the same conditions.
In relation to your comment about the door buckling from the constant
pressure of the strut, I elected to adopt Ted Gladstone's lever idea
which completely eliminates all forces on the door when the door is
closed. This mod however, is not the easiest thing to do but I'm very
happy I did it. Just recently, a friend of mine who now has his Europa
ready to fly, showed me a gas strut he bought locally over here which in
its collapsed state is shorter than the Europa strut and is also longer
in its extended state. This allows it to be fitted in the alternate
position with its lower end further outboard effecting a better
mechanical advantage when the door is open. I.e.. it holds the door
open better. This may be an easy and economical way to overcome both
your problems . . . . . I repeat - maybe !
If you are interested in this strut my friend found, let me know and
I'll get the details for you.
Regards
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
From: | Dave_Miller(at)avivacanada.com |
04/08/2005 08:18:31 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/08/2005 08:18:31 AM
Garry,
A friend fixed his bulging door by epoxying a rare earth magnet to the
fuselage, with a metal cup on the frame.
These were obtained from a local woodworking store for a dollar or so.
Now when the door closes, the magnet pulls the frame down, and the
distortion is starting to disappear.
Dave A061 ( one kit later than you I think and finally hoping to fly this
year !)
My Europa was completed in 1999 and the struts are per the original
instructions............mounted in the upper aft corner of the door. The
constant pressure of the strut when the door is closed causes a slow
deformation of the door such that the corners stand proud of the fuselage.
I've thought about changing to the "new" configuration for the struts, but
simply have been too lazy to get around to it.
Garry Stout
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Horizonspace(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Size of Airmaster Spinner on 914? |
According to the Airmaster web site
_http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/wa.asp?idWebPage=3484_
(http://www.airmasterpropellers.com/wa.asp?idWebPage=3484)
the XS uses a 10 in spinner and the Classic uses a "Classic" spinner.
According to an e-mail that I got from Martin at Airmaster, the 10 in spinner
is
actually 10.3 in (262mm) and the "Classic" spinner is 372mm.
Regards,
Tam
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Unnerving experience |
When a co-owner of G-MFHI was out with an instructor last weekend, on
climbout from a successful touch and go, the engine started 'surging' -
repeatedly running roughly then not. A maday call was made and a successful
landing on an alternate runway was executed.
When the cowl was removed and a transparent piece of pipe put into the fuel
line, approximately 30-50% gas could be seen - it could not be determined if
this was air being drawn in or fuel vapour. When the reserve tank was
selected, the gas was seen to disappear and the fuel pump ran considerably
easier.
My problem is that when I went to Rochester today, I couldn't repeat the
symptoms - the pump ran fine from both tanks with little if any bubbles. The
flow rate from the main tank was considerably less (approx 40l/hr as opposed
to 60l/hr from the reserve) - replacing the element in the main tank filter
eliminated the difference.
The aircraft was operating on Mogas, the filter units are the glass type
with metal end caps with a plastic element. The filter element looks to have
quite a lot of fibrous strands in.
My questions are:
1) Has anyone experienced anything like this in the past - if so, did
you get to the root of the problem?
2) There seems to be a thin layer of brown 'stuff' on the wall of the
fuel tank - any idea what this could be?
3) Are these the best filter elements to use - there seem to be more
routes for air to get in that a sealed unit.
Sorry for such a long message but as you can understand, following the
accident at Kemble, it was something of an unnerving experience for the
pilot (and instructor) involved and we really want to find the cause, not
just a case of we think we've found it.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
Subject: | Unnerving experience |
Hi
This sound not unusual for a new aeroplane we had a similar problem at
about 8 hours from new. I have also seen the same problem on another
Europa Classic just after initial permit issue. I have a Classic (109)
and had repeated problems with the filters in the first few hours. I
suspect the inlet pipe, which appears to exude brown goo for the first
few hours. Just keep checking and cleaning the filters on a regular
basis. My aeroplane has 130 hours on now and I still reckon to clean
the filter about every 10 hours.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
Subject: Europa-List: Unnerving experience
-->
When a co-owner of G-MFHI was out with an instructor last weekend, on
climbout from a successful touch and go, the engine started 'surging' -
repeatedly running roughly then not. A maday call was made and a
successful
landing on an alternate runway was executed.
When the cowl was removed and a transparent piece of pipe put into the
fuel
line, approximately 30-50% gas could be seen - it could not be
determined if
this was air being drawn in or fuel vapour. When the reserve tank was
selected, the gas was seen to disappear and the fuel pump ran
considerably
easier.
My problem is that when I went to Rochester today, I couldn't repeat the
symptoms - the pump ran fine from both tanks with little if any bubbles.
The
flow rate from the main tank was considerably less (approx 40l/hr as
opposed
to 60l/hr from the reserve) - replacing the element in the main tank
filter
eliminated the difference.
The aircraft was operating on Mogas, the filter units are the glass type
with metal end caps with a plastic element. The filter element looks to
have
quite a lot of fibrous strands in.
My questions are:
1) Has anyone experienced anything like this in the past - if so,
did
you get to the root of the problem?
2) There seems to be a thin layer of brown 'stuff' on the wall of
the
fuel tank - any idea what this could be?
3) Are these the best filter elements to use - there seem to be
more
routes for air to get in that a sealed unit.
Sorry for such a long message but as you can understand, following the
accident at Kemble, it was something of an unnerving experience for the
pilot (and instructor) involved and we really want to find the cause,
not
just a case of we think we've found it.
Peter
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | How many aircraft are you building? |
Reading ahead in the Build Manual this evening in preparation for installing
the rudder pedals, I noticed on Page 22-4 it says:
"With blobs of dry micro on the foam supports, lay the floor panels in
position, ensuring that they are on the same plane"
How many aircraft under construction did the writer think I might have in my
16' by 8' garage????
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: How many aircraft are you building? |
From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
There should only one horizontal plane. apart from your plane to be. So
yes, that makes two, if we forget about the vertical plane. But of course
you could make diagonal planes as much as you like. Back to these pedal
floors, it's virtually impossible to really find the same plane (1) in the
plane (2) , so best to preassamble the whole lot on the bench, outside the
plane (2), make sure the pedals move smoothly, and then transfer it into
the plane (2) Now carefully fix the floorboards in position, chack again
for smooth movement before fixing them for good in the same plane (1) to
your plane (2). Hope it helps,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Kingsley,
Yes, I'm interested in the alternative strut. Would you mind asking your
friend for the particulars?
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
>
> Garry,
>
> You said:
>> My Europa was completed in 1999 and the struts are per the original
> instructions............mounted in the upper aft corner of the door.
>
> Thank you for letting me know. My thoughts were that with the original
> attachment (as I understand yours is), there is considerable mechanical
> advantage around the gas strut attach point such that when the door is
> forced upwards when the strut is fully extended, the rear hinge is
> placed under a lot of load.
>
> With the higher position of the attach point as it is with the alternate
> positioning of the strut, the load on the rear hinge would be markedly
> reduced under the same conditions.
>
> In relation to your comment about the door buckling from the constant
> pressure of the strut, I elected to adopt Ted Gladstone's lever idea
> which completely eliminates all forces on the door when the door is
> closed. This mod however, is not the easiest thing to do but I'm very
> happy I did it. Just recently, a friend of mine who now has his Europa
> ready to fly, showed me a gas strut he bought locally over here which in
> its collapsed state is shorter than the Europa strut and is also longer
> in its extended state. This allows it to be fitted in the alternate
> position with its lower end further outboard effecting a better
> mechanical advantage when the door is open. I.e.. it holds the door
> open better. This may be an easy and economical way to overcome both
> your problems . . . . . I repeat - maybe !
>
> If you are interested in this strut my friend found, let me know and
> I'll get the details for you.
>
> Regards
> Kingsley
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
Hi All;
i did a search of archives and only found one comment on tall pilots. How tall
can you be to fit comfortably in an XS monowheel? Thanks
Paul Boulet
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Dave,
Not sure whether you are joking or not!
I wonder how your friend is going to calibrate his compass to read
accurately with a powerful rare earth magnet in proximity.
Presumably he'll remove it before he tries?
Regards
Roger Mills
141
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "simon.nash1" <simon.nash1(at)btconnect.com> |
Hi Paul,
I am 6'5" so I opted for the hi-top mod which gives 2-3"
extra headroom, I find the plane very comfortable.
Simon
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: tall pilots
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 21:19:31 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>
> Hi All;
> i did a search of archives and only found one comment on
> tall pilots. How tall can you be to fit comfortably in an
> XS monowheel? Thanks Paul Boulet
>
>
> ====
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Henwick" <mark.henwick(at)btconnect.com> |
Hi Paul
I am the same height as Ivan, who designed the plane for himself.
However, I have a long spine and my head felt uncomfortably close to the
glass in G-KITZ and the cockpit mockup. I have opted for a high top and
will feed back how it feels in, oh, about 2 years time.
Difficult to measure exactly. I'm 6ft standing. Sitting bolt upright I'm
about 3ft 4in (102cm) tall.
Rgds
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
Subject: Europa-List: tall pilots
Hi All;
i did a search of archives and only found one comment on tall pilots.
How tall can you be to fit comfortably in an XS monowheel? Thanks Paul
Boulet
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Sven Hi!
Have you got enough information now on Door Switches?
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rmrrick <rmrrick(at)aol.com> |
mark.henwick(at)btconnect.com wrote:
>
>Hi Paul
>
>I am the same height as Ivan, who designed the plane for himself.
>However, I have a long spine and my head felt uncomfortably close to the
>glass in G-KITZ and the cockpit mockup. I have opted for a high top and
>will feed back how it feels in, oh, about 2 years time.
>
>Difficult to measure exactly. I'm 6ft standing. Sitting bolt upright I'm
>about 3ft 4in (102cm) tall.
>
>Rgds
>
>Mark
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: tall pilots
>
>
>Hi All;
>i did a search of archives and only found one comment on tall pilots.
>How tall can you be to fit comfortably in an XS monowheel? Thanks Paul
>Boulet
>
>
>
>
Its not the size that matter but where it is. My brother - law flies P2
with me and although only 6' 0" tall has to remove all cusions and sit
on the seat base to clear the door glass. He's got short legs and a long
body.
Flying a Europa size can matter.
Rick Morris (5' 81/4")
G-RIKS
Tri 912s 340 hours. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Gerry and others,
Would you please post the door switch info on the Europa Owners Site
for all of us to access.
Thanks.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> Would you please post the door switch info on the Europa Owners Site
> for all of us to access.
Certainly can. I'll resize the images and send with VERY simple circuit this
evening.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Sven,
You may know that yours is not the first door separation in
flight. I believe it too did no damage in departing. I have substituted SS
hinges for Alu ones but have not strengthened the structure. It is my
assumption if my door separates, it will tear out the bolts and I will have
to strengthen structure THEN.
I may not be right, but it is worth considering whether you want
a clean separation, or whether open attached door will affect flight
control.
Like some others, I have opted for microswitch sensing of aft
locking bolts (as I can see forward ones) and aft pull-in handle. I have
diagrams of the installation of m/s details, including sliding covers and
part numbers etc. if you wish.
Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
Paul, I am 6' 2" and fit comfortably. Basically you want to fly it with your
head close to the canopy for optimum forward visibility, so you make your
seat cushion thick enough to achieve that. My cushion system is thicker
than I feel necessary for reasonable comfort and vertical impact absorption.
So I suspect that something like 6' 4" would be possible. Regards David
Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Boulet" <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: tall pilots
>
> Hi All;
> i did a search of archives and only found one comment on tall pilots. How
tall can you be to fit comfortably in an XS monowheel? Thanks
> Paul Boulet
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages
>
> Free education for all doctors.
> The simple, fast way to prove you are keeping up to date.
http://www.doctors.net.uk/education
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock the |
door today ?)
For anyone interested in the door strut mod it is Factory Mod Number 66.
You will find it on www.europa-aircraft.co.uk under "technical" then Mod 66.
Double click and you will get a PDF of the fitting instructions.
You can buy the factory kit of part but the disadvantage of then is that the
new pivot is on a moulding which you 420 onto the door. This makes the
frame thicker (which has the advantage of stiffening it) but gives problems
with the door seals.
The other option is to make your own brackets, set then into the existing
door structure and the glass over the frame to reinforce it. You need to be
precise in the positioning of the bracket.
Having done it both ways now (G-IANI factory kit) and (G-IRON DIY version) I
like the DIY version best. It is not a job for you unless you are confident
about your accuracy and the quality of your glass work.
If anyone is interested in the DIY version I can make some photos available.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Shoot Bolt Safety Switches |
From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
I have uploaded a photo of Shoot bolt Switch arrangement from G-KIMM (Thanks
to Paddy Clarke).
Also at the following location is a very simple wiring diagram.
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumNameShootbolt-Switches&op
modload&namegallery&fileindex&includeview_album.php
Please ensure you copy and paste this full URL or go to
http://www.europaowners.org/
Select Europa Photo Gallery and continue to item 2.....Builders Photo Album
and it=B9s the bottom most photo album.
Regards
Gerry Holland
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock |
the door today ?)
From: | "Craig" <wrightcrw(at)aol.com> |
Ian
Trev and I were at fly today and you will be pleased to here g-iani was generating
some interest. It was shining nicely and everything was still on it until
trev took a liking to your stripes!
He promises to give you them back once he has used them as a template for his own.
Regards
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:46:23
To:
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock the
door today ?)
For anyone interested in the door strut mod it is Factory Mod Number 66.
You will find it on www.europa-aircraft.co.uk under "technical" then Mod 66.
Double click and you will get a PDF of the fitting instructions.
You can buy the factory kit of part but the disadvantage of then is that the
new pivot is on a moulding which you 420 onto the door. This makes the
frame thicker (which has the advantage of stiffening it) but gives problems
with the door seals.
The other option is to make your own brackets, set then into the existing
door structure and the glass over the frame to reinforce it. You need to be
precise in the positioning of the bracket.
Having done it both ways now (G-IANI factory kit) and (G-IRON DIY version) I
like the DIY version best. It is not a job for you unless you are confident
about your accuracy and the quality of your glass work.
If anyone is interested in the DIY version I can make some photos available.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Let your email find you with BlackBerry from Vodafone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock |
the door today ?)
Don't panic, Ian - I made him take them off carefully. And I got him to
score around them first so you know where they go when you put them back on.
Craig was lucky - he nearly didn't manage to do the scoring, some trumped up
security guard tried to arrest him for walking round with that crowbar he
sharpened! A total Jobs Worth if you ask me!
But yes, G-IANI was generating a lot of interest, and there are a bunch of
folks out there who want to join our Europa community! :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you
lock the door today ?)
Ian
Trev and I were at fly today and you will be pleased to here g-iani was
generating some interest. It was shining nicely and everything was still on
it until trev took a liking to your stripes!
He promises to give you them back once he has used them as a template for
his own.
Regards
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:46:23
To:
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock
the door today ?)
For anyone interested in the door strut mod it is Factory Mod Number 66.
You will find it on www.europa-aircraft.co.uk under "technical" then Mod 66.
Double click and you will get a PDF of the fitting instructions.
You can buy the factory kit of part but the disadvantage of then is that the
new pivot is on a moulding which you 420 onto the door. This makes the
frame thicker (which has the advantage of stiffening it) but gives problems
with the door seals.
The other option is to make your own brackets, set then into the existing
door structure and the glass over the frame to reinforce it. You need to be
precise in the positioning of the bracket.
Having done it both ways now (G-IANI factory kit) and (G-IRON DIY version) I
like the DIY version best. It is not a job for you unless you are confident
about your accuracy and the quality of your glass work.
If anyone is interested in the DIY version I can make some photos available.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Let your email find you with BlackBerry from Vodafone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sven den Boer" <svendenboer(at)quicknet.nl> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Excellent and once again thanks a lot !
Sven
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
> Sven Hi!
>
> Have you got enough information now on Door Switches?
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Subject: | Rudder Pedal Setup Reply. |
For the bench test, be sure that the pedals rotate smoothly throughout a
normal range of movement on the same axis. Mine insitu bind a bit in the
bushes because the combined pedals are not completely on the same axis
throughout the combined length. On the bench you should be able to distort
the "high point" down with even pressure to get a co-incident axis throughout.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 09:13 AM 4/9/2005, you wrote:
>
>There should only one horizontal plane. apart from your plane to be. So
>yes, that makes two, if we forget about the vertical plane. But of course
>you could make diagonal planes as much as you like. Back to these pedal
>floors, it's virtually impossible to really find the same plane (1) in the
>plane (2) , so best to preassamble the whole lot on the bench, outside the
>plane (2), make sure the pedals move smoothly, and then transfer it into
>the plane (2) Now carefully fix the floorboards in position, chack again
>for smooth movement before fixing them for good in the same plane (1) to
>your plane (2). Hope it helps,
>
>Jos Okhuijsen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Rudder Pedal Setup Reply. |
Oh, God, what did I start last night...? :-)
Thanks, Jos and Tony!
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Pedal Setup Reply.
For the bench test, be sure that the pedals rotate smoothly throughout a
normal range of movement on the same axis. Mine insitu bind a bit in the
bushes because the combined pedals are not completely on the same axis
throughout the combined length. On the bench you should be able to distort
the "high point" down with even pressure to get a co-incident axis
throughout.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 09:13 AM 4/9/2005, you wrote:
>
>There should only one horizontal plane. apart from your plane to be. So
>yes, that makes two, if we forget about the vertical plane. But of course
>you could make diagonal planes as much as you like. Back to these pedal
>floors, it's virtually impossible to really find the same plane (1) in the
>plane (2) , so best to preassamble the whole lot on the bench, outside the
>plane (2), make sure the pedals move smoothly, and then transfer it into
>the plane (2) Now carefully fix the floorboards in position, chack again
>for smooth movement before fixing them for good in the same plane (1) to
>your plane (2). Hope it helps,
>
>Jos Okhuijsen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Did you lock the door today ? |
Having "been there, done that", I can vouch that when the door departs the
aircraft it does not significantly affect the flight characteristics. Just
scares the daylights out of you. I know of one famous Europa pilot who
shall go unnamed, who flew a couple of hundred miles after his door
departed.
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Did you lock the door today ?
>
> Sven,
> You may know that yours is not the first door separation in
> flight. I believe it too did no damage in departing. I have substituted SS
> hinges for Alu ones but have not strengthened the structure. It is my
> assumption if my door separates, it will tear out the bolts and I will
> have
> to strengthen structure THEN.
> I may not be right, but it is worth considering whether you
> want
> a clean separation, or whether open attached door will affect flight
> control.
> Like some others, I have opted for microswitch sensing of aft
> locking bolts (as I can see forward ones) and aft pull-in handle. I have
> diagrams of the installation of m/s details, including sliding covers and
> part numbers etc. if you wish.
> Cheers, Ferg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Hi all,
I posted a similar message on the Aeroelectric board. I am having intermittent
problems with my electric trim. Sometimes when I need to slow and trim the aircraft
for landing the trim motor won't actuate. I initially suspected the down
trim button, but once I had it not wanting to respond to an "UP" button press
as well.
I have wriggled wires, plugs and un plugged terminations and driven the servo to
the end stops but I haven't been able to duplicate the problem on the ground.
I am starting to suspect the servo and I am thinking it might be having trouble
reversing direction with air loads.
I'd be interested in anyone's ideas for trouble shooting. I have a 4 way trim switch
with a Ray Allen relay deck driving an older MAC servo unit.
One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo unit.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Hi! Paul
I can confirm that I have a similar problem (or I'm hoping I HAD!)
For some time I have had an intermittent similar problem. The trim will
always go nose up no problem but should I go a LED bar too far it won't
reverse until I take it full nose up (huge control stick forces) then it
usually but sometimes only after about a minute will return. I suspected
the servo motor which since my Kit No. is 337 I guess will be the old
one. I had lots of written exchanges with the Ray Allen Co. resulting in
my sending it back for check over since they had concluded that an "end
or limiter switch wasn't allowing the reversing of the motor. I
returned it to them unfortunately they had a bad day when they received
it and didn't link my motor with my communications but checked it out
and found no fault.
I refitted it and when plugging my connectors at the panel back together
I discovered an internally broken or badly crimped wire.
I remade the wire connection and "hey presto". After two years it seemed
sorted!
However since then the problem has again returned and I have not been
able to get it to repeat on demand. The last time I flew I did my
pre-flight checks and I trimmed up a couple of LED bars and it wouldn't
return, pulled off the ramp and sat operating both the control on the
stick and the one on the panel. After about 10 minutes of multiple
switching it came back to life. I flew my mission ensuring not to trim
too far nose up, and on the return leg repeatedly trimmed nose up then
nose down without problem.
I have again checked all my connectors and stood for an hour trying to
reproduce the problem to no avail. I'm wondering if it is the relay
deck?
If you manage to isolate your problem would you be good enough to let me
know?
Best regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Robt.C.Harrison
Hi all,
I posted a similar message on the Aeroelectric board. I am having
intermittent problems with my electric trim. Sometimes when I need to
slow and trim the aircraft for landing the trim motor won't actuate. I
initially suspected the down trim button, but once I had it not wanting
to respond to an "UP" button press as well.
I have wriggled wires, plugs and un plugged terminations and driven the
servo to the end stops but I haven't been able to duplicate the problem
on the ground. I am starting to suspect the servo and I am thinking it
might be having trouble reversing direction with air loads.
I'd be interested in anyone's ideas for trouble shooting. I have a 4 way
trim switch with a Ray Allen relay deck driving an older MAC servo unit.
One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo
unit.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Setup Reply. |
It helps here if floating anchor nut plates are used on the pedal floor.
This enables a degree or two of self-alighning ability.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Pedal Setup Reply.
>
> For the bench test, be sure that the pedals rotate smoothly throughout a
> normal range of movement on the same axis. Mine insitu bind a bit in the
> bushes because the combined pedals are not completely on the same axis
> throughout the combined length. On the bench you should be able to distort
> the "high point" down with even pressure to get a co-incident axis
throughout.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
> At 09:13 AM 4/9/2005, you wrote:
> >
> >There should only one horizontal plane. apart from your plane to be. So
> >yes, that makes two, if we forget about the vertical plane. But of course
> >you could make diagonal planes as much as you like. Back to these pedal
> >floors, it's virtually impossible to really find the same plane (1) in
the
> >plane (2) , so best to preassamble the whole lot on the bench, outside
the
> >plane (2), make sure the pedals move smoothly, and then transfer it into
> >the plane (2) Now carefully fix the floorboards in position, chack again
> >for smooth movement before fixing them for good in the same plane (1) to
> >your plane (2). Hope it helps,
> >
> >Jos Okhuijsen
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roland Robinson" <roland.robinson(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Unnerving experience |
Hi
I had a very similar experience following the annual on my Europa. On
investigation a short longitudinal split was found on the fuel pipe that
pushed onto the filter. (one of the poor quality cotton braided type)
Here are my thoughts on what had happened:
Like you I was doing circuits and it was several circuits in before the
problem occurred, so why did it start to happen?
I believe that air was being drawn in though the split. Before the "how
did air get in if fuel didn't leak out brigade start" this could happen
due to the nett positive suction head on the pump. Ie as fuel is used in
the tank the head available on the pump is going down as the fuel is
consumed. Therefore slightly more suction is required. At some point it
could become easier for air to be pulled through the leak than fuel from
the tank. This would give the effect that you describe.
This further fitted my event as, when I reduced power, the engine
running cleared up. So again as fuel demand was reduced, less suction
required, no air drawn.
I too thankfully made a successful landing on alternate runway. I cured
the leak and the problem did not recur in 150 hours subsequent flying.
In conclusion, I would advise that you check for any (slight) leaks on
the suction side of the pump.
Hope this helps.
Roly Robinson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Lawless
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Unnerving experience
Hi
This sound not unusual for a new aeroplane we had a similar problem at
about 8 hours from new. I have also seen the same problem on another
Europa Classic just after initial permit issue. I have a Classic (109)
and had repeated problems with the filters in the first few hours. I
suspect the inlet pipe, which appears to exude brown goo for the first
few hours. Just keep checking and cleaning the filters on a regular
basis. My aeroplane has 130 hours on now and I still reckon to clean
the filter about every 10 hours.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
Subject: Europa-List: Unnerving experience
-->
When a co-owner of G-MFHI was out with an instructor last weekend, on
climbout from a successful touch and go, the engine started 'surging' -
repeatedly running roughly then not. A maday call was made and a
successful
landing on an alternate runway was executed.
When the cowl was removed and a transparent piece of pipe put into the
fuel
line, approximately 30-50% gas could be seen - it could not be
determined if
this was air being drawn in or fuel vapour. When the reserve tank was
selected, the gas was seen to disappear and the fuel pump ran
considerably
easier.
My problem is that when I went to Rochester today, I couldn't repeat the
symptoms - the pump ran fine from both tanks with little if any bubbles.
The
flow rate from the main tank was considerably less (approx 40l/hr as
opposed
to 60l/hr from the reserve) - replacing the element in the main tank
filter
eliminated the difference.
The aircraft was operating on Mogas, the filter units are the glass type
with metal end caps with a plastic element. The filter element looks to
have
quite a lot of fibrous strands in.
My questions are:
1) Has anyone experienced anything like this in the past - if so,
did
you get to the root of the problem?
2) There seems to be a thin layer of brown 'stuff' on the wall of
the
fuel tank - any idea what this could be?
3) Are these the best filter elements to use - there seem to be
more
routes for air to get in that a sealed unit.
Sorry for such a long message but as you can understand, following the
accident at Kemble, it was something of an unnerving experience for the
pilot (and instructor) involved and we really want to find the cause,
not
just a case of we think we've found it.
Peter
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
Subject: | sat 23 april club trip |
Club day-trip to Le Touquet on saturday 23 april - This is generally a social
get-together and refresher on flight planning and map reading (or gps-entering!)
skills...
It would be great if some more French pilots can make it again, unfortunately
Jean-martin is on holiday that weekend. However, if some of you Dutch, German
or other continental Europans are interested then please let me know.
Anyone interested please email me off-list at:
davebuzz(at)aol.com
with plane type (doesn't have to be a Europa, you builders!) and registration,
as we may be able to get a reduction on landing fees once again if we notify
LeT in advance.
All the best,
dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock |
the door today ?)
Gee thanks for that.
If Trev wants the stripes then they are on a CAD file (full scale). If he
wants the name of the company who made them (and have the shape on CAD
already) I will supply it. They are in Northern Ireland, I know the owner
who lives just down the road from my Sister in law. There price is much
lower than UK quotes I got. He will do them by post for you to fit.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did
you lock the door today ?)
Ian
Trev and I were at fly today and you will be pleased to here g-iani was
generating some interest. It was shining nicely and everything was still on
it until trev took a liking to your stripes!
He promises to give you them back once he has used them as a template for
his own.
Regards
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:46:23
To:
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock
the door today ?)
For anyone interested in the door strut mod it is Factory Mod Number 66.
You will find it on www.europa-aircraft.co.uk under "technical" then Mod 66.
Double click and you will get a PDF of the fitting instructions.
You can buy the factory kit of part but the disadvantage of then is that the
new pivot is on a moulding which you 420 onto the door. This makes the
frame thicker (which has the advantage of stiffening it) but gives problems
with the door seals.
The other option is to make your own brackets, set then into the existing
door structure and the glass over the frame to reinforce it. You need to be
precise in the positioning of the bracket.
Having done it both ways now (G-IANI factory kit) and (G-IRON DIY version) I
like the DIY version best. It is not a job for you unless you are confident
about your accuracy and the quality of your glass work.
If anyone is interested in the DIY version I can make some photos available.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Let your email find you with BlackBerry from Vodafone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock |
the door today ?)
Thanks for the update. Its nice to know you have a spare fuse, which
obviously you wont need for many years yet, which I can borrow.
See you next week
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey
Subject: RE: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did
you lock the door today ?)
Don't panic, Ian - I made him take them off carefully. And I got him to
score around them first so you know where they go when you put them back on.
Craig was lucky - he nearly didn't manage to do the scoring, some trumped up
security guard tried to arrest him for walking round with that crowbar he
sharpened! A total Jobs Worth if you ask me!
But yes, G-IANI was generating a lot of interest, and there are a bunch of
folks out there who want to join our Europa community! :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you
lock the door today ?)
Ian
Trev and I were at fly today and you will be pleased to here g-iani was
generating some interest. It was shining nicely and everything was still on
it until trev took a liking to your stripes!
He promises to give you them back once he has used them as a template for
his own.
Regards
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:46:23
To:
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Europa List - Door Strut Mod (was:: Did you lock
the door today ?)
For anyone interested in the door strut mod it is Factory Mod Number 66.
You will find it on www.europa-aircraft.co.uk under "technical" then Mod 66.
Double click and you will get a PDF of the fitting instructions.
You can buy the factory kit of part but the disadvantage of then is that the
new pivot is on a moulding which you 420 onto the door. This makes the
frame thicker (which has the advantage of stiffening it) but gives problems
with the door seals.
The other option is to make your own brackets, set then into the existing
door structure and the glass over the frame to reinforce it. You need to be
precise in the positioning of the bracket.
Having done it both ways now (G-IANI factory kit) and (G-IRON DIY version) I
like the DIY version best. It is not a job for you unless you are confident
about your accuracy and the quality of your glass work.
If anyone is interested in the DIY version I can make some photos available.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Let your email find you with BlackBerry from Vodafone
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Hi Paul,
There was a similar thread, which started about the flap motor here some
time ago.
Somebody advised to hang a lamp over the servo motor, to isolate switches,
wiring and relays. I would go for that. I've decided to add bright leds,
one for up, one for down with their diode function, to the panel, above
and below the indicator. This because it will help the diagnostics and
hopefully prevent accidental actuation of the trim buttons on the stick.
I've heard about an accident, where one of the factors was inadvertely
trim up during takeoff. Other then that, i know that intermittend faults
are really difficult to solve. The only way to do it is by try and error,
first starting with the replacement of most suspect parts. First problem
here is that nobody seems to have an idea what part to suspect first, and
second is, that the problem part of the equasion might happen at a time
where you can't afford it.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
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Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Wally Messages Stopped! |
Dear Listers,
My sincere apologies! At about 4:30am this morning there was an odd system
problem on the Matornics email server, causing many mail files to become
marked as "read-only". This wedged many of the List filters causing all
sorts of weird behavior. Perhaps the oddest was that an innocent message
from Walter Critchlow, kept getting posted instead of the actual incoming
List message.
If you receive this message, and sent a list message to any of the lists
your message was one of the ones that got subverted. Please repost your
message to the respective list.
AeroElectric-list
Commandaer-list
Engines-List
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Kitfox-List
Kolb-List
Pietenpol-List
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RV9-List
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Tailwind-List
Yak-List
Zenith-List
Again, my sincere apologies for the problems. I was doing my Taxes (!)
today and wasn't keeping as close an eye on the Lists as I normally do.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
Hi Paul,
I think your last question is still open. My kit came with the Ray Allen
Servo T3-12A.
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear Detroit
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
>
> Hi! Paul
> I can confirm that I have a similar problem (or I'm hoping I HAD!)
> For some time I have had an intermittent similar problem. The trim will
> always go nose up no problem but should I go a LED bar too far it won't
> reverse until I take it full nose up (huge control stick forces) then it
> usually but sometimes only after about a minute will return. I suspected
> the servo motor which since my Kit No. is 337 I guess will be the old
> one. I had lots of written exchanges with the Ray Allen Co. resulting in
> my sending it back for check over since they had concluded that an "end
> or limiter switch wasn't allowing the reversing of the motor. I
> returned it to them unfortunately they had a bad day when they received
> it and didn't link my motor with my communications but checked it out
> and found no fault.
> I refitted it and when plugging my connectors at the panel back together
> I discovered an internally broken or badly crimped wire.
> I remade the wire connection and "hey presto". After two years it seemed
> sorted!
> However since then the problem has again returned and I have not been
> able to get it to repeat on demand. The last time I flew I did my
> pre-flight checks and I trimmed up a couple of LED bars and it wouldn't
> return, pulled off the ramp and sat operating both the control on the
> stick and the one on the panel. After about 10 minutes of multiple
> switching it came back to life. I flew my mission ensuring not to trim
> too far nose up, and on the return leg repeatedly trimmed nose up then
> nose down without problem.
> I have again checked all my connectors and stood for an hour trying to
> reproduce the problem to no avail. I'm wondering if it is the relay
> deck?
> If you manage to isolate your problem would you be good enough to let me
> know?
> Best regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
> Robt.C.Harrison
>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I posted a similar message on the Aeroelectric board. I am having
> intermittent problems with my electric trim. Sometimes when I need to
> slow and trim the aircraft for landing the trim motor won't actuate. I
> initially suspected the down trim button, but once I had it not wanting
> to respond to an "UP" button press as well.
>
> I have wriggled wires, plugs and un plugged terminations and driven the
> servo to the end stops but I haven't been able to duplicate the problem
> on the ground. I am starting to suspect the servo and I am thinking it
> might be having trouble reversing direction with air loads.
>
> I'd be interested in anyone's ideas for trouble shooting. I have a 4 way
> trim switch with a Ray Allen relay deck driving an older MAC servo unit.
>
> One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo
> unit.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Starter kick back.... |
Hi all,
I have just got my Europa out of its winter hibernation and it has a new trick,
it kicks back when trying to start it cold, it never used to before. When I say
cold I am talking about an OAT of around 50 degrees. If I don't use any choke
is will crank and crank but refuse to start. If I add some choke it kicks
back violently. It is a 914 and up until now I had not seen this problem.
Before I go and modify my starting system to allow me to crank without the mags
turned on I'd appreciate some ideas on what might be causing this.
Thanks, Paul
175 hours and still grinning :o)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Starter kick back.... |
Paul,
There is a history of this - am sure it's in the archives.
Suggest you look there - darned if I can remember why, but it's
solvable...........
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Starter kick back....
|
| Hi all,
|
| I have just got my Europa out of its winter hibernation and it has a new
trick, it kicks back when trying to start it cold, it never used to before.
When I say cold I am talking about an OAT of around 50 degrees. If I don't
use any choke is will crank and crank but refuse to start. If I add some
choke it kicks back violently. It is a 914 and up until now I had not seen
this problem.
|
| Before I go and modify my starting system to allow me to crank without the
mags turned on I'd appreciate some ideas on what might be causing this.
|
| Thanks, Paul
|
| 175 hours and still grinning :o)
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale" <gdh(at)isp.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
Paul,
I had a servo fail (drove the drive pin up through the housing) the MAC
folks replaced it no charge and suggested that I might want to replace the
switch as well. I did and no more problems.
Dale
A-140 Tri-gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I posted a similar message on the Aeroelectric board. I am having
> intermittent problems with my electric trim. Sometimes when I need to
> slow and trim the aircraft for landing the trim motor won't actuate. I
> initially suspected the down trim button, but once I had it not wanting to
> respond to an "UP" button press as well.
>
> I have wriggled wires, plugs and un plugged terminations and driven the
> servo to the end stops but I haven't been able to duplicate the problem
> on the ground. I am starting to suspect the servo and I am thinking it
> might be having trouble reversing direction with air loads.
>
> I'd be interested in anyone's ideas for trouble shooting. I have a 4 way
> trim switch with a Ray Allen relay deck driving an older MAC servo unit.
>
> One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo
> unit.
>
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Subject: | Monowheel Brake Pads. |
A question for anyone who has relined the monowheel brakes. Can you confirm that
the correct pads for the Monowheel brake are the (Cleveland) 66-106.
And do you know what the part number for the required rivets.
regards,
Mike G-JULZ (Does exactly what it says on the tin.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
Subject: | Unnerving experience |
>
>
>Hi
>
>I had a very similar experience following the annual on my Europa. On
>investigation a short longitudinal split was found on the fuel pipe that
>pushed onto the filter. (one of the poor quality cotton braided type)
Roland
you are probably right. This will cause rough running at full throttle. The
leak may be extremely small but still allow air to be pulled in but not
allow fuel to leak out. The air will expand and reduce the fuel flow very
significantly because the rate of pumping is limited.
The rough running will tend to start as fuel level in the tank reduces
Graham
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Hello Group
My son Brennan and I will be at Sun N. Fun on Friday or Saturday this week.
There was a previous thread on perhaps a Europa meeting sometime during the
Fly in.
Was a definite time made?
Thanks!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
In a message dated 4/9/2005 7:58:59 PM Central Standard Time,
paul.mcallister(at)qia.net writes:
One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo unit.
Thanks, Paul
Hi Paul;
I'm just not sure if I have a new unit or not. It was delivered with my kit
on November 2004 # A276.
The servo is manufactured by Ray Allen. The number on the servo is T3-12A.
It came in a kit part number T3-12A-TS
This thread has just persuaded me to go back and install those blind nuts to
the back of the bulkhead.
I would hate to have to replace this unit with the regular lock nut and
washer arrangement specified in the manual.
Hope those part numbers help.
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Hello Group
My son Brennan and I will be at Sun N. Fun on Friday or Saturday this week.
There was a previous thread on perhaps a Europa meeting sometime during the
Fly in.
Was a definite time made?
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Something similar that might be relevant - When the Embraer 145 was
introduced in the UK there were a number of incidents of loss of trim as the
aircraft accelerated and climbed. It turned out that the pilots were
holding in the necessary forward stick until the pressure built up and then
trimming (or trying to) and the pressure was too much for the motor to cope
with. The solution was to trim more often at lower pressures. A search on
the AAIB website will turn up the necessary.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jos Okhuijsen
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
Hi Paul,
There was a similar thread, which started about the flap motor here some
time ago.
Somebody advised to hang a lamp over the servo motor, to isolate switches,
wiring and relays. I would go for that. I've decided to add bright leds,
one for up, one for down with their diode function, to the panel, above
and below the indicator. This because it will help the diagnostics and
hopefully prevent accidental actuation of the trim buttons on the stick.
I've heard about an accident, where one of the factors was inadvertely
trim up during takeoff. Other then that, i know that intermittend faults
are really difficult to solve. The only way to do it is by try and error,
first starting with the replacement of most suspect parts. First problem
here is that nobody seems to have an idea what part to suspect first, and
second is, that the problem part of the equasion might happen at a time
where you can't afford it.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Hello Group
My son Brennan and I will be at Sun N. Fun on Friday or Saturday this week.
There was a previous thread on perhaps a Europa meeting sometime during the
Fly in.
Was a definite time made?
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vaughn Teegarden" <N914VA(at)starband.net> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on cassiopeia
Name's Vaughn and I'm working on my kit. I will be at Sun-n-Fun on the 13th & 14th.
I've read the thread concerning meeting, and recall the possibility of meeting
at either the Europa booth (S-24) or at Flight Crafters who will be working
on a Zenair (this didn't seem for certain). I will check in at the Europa
booth. My guess is that they will be receptive to leaving word with other Europa
Builders/Flyers.
Vaughn Teegarden
N914VA
Some wiring to do, then close it all up
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
Simon
I'll ask my wife about it when she returns from France - she was the
safety officer and an FO on the 145 fleet when this occurred.
Rgards
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Hi! Simon.
I appreciate your input but my problem happened last time during my
pre-flight checks so loading was minimal other than needing to overcome
the friction damper.
Regards
Bob Harrison.G-PTAG
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Simon Smith
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
Something similar that might be relevant - When the Embraer 145 was
introduced in the UK there were a number of incidents of loss of trim as
the
aircraft accelerated and climbed. It turned out that the pilots were
holding in the necessary forward stick until the pressure built up and
then
trimming (or trying to) and the pressure was too much for the motor to
cope
with. The solution was to trim more often at lower pressures. A search
on
the AAIB website will turn up the necessary.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jos
Okhuijsen
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
Hi Paul,
There was a similar thread, which started about the flap motor here some
time ago.
Somebody advised to hang a lamp over the servo motor, to isolate
switches,
wiring and relays. I would go for that. I've decided to add bright leds,
one for up, one for down with their diode function, to the panel, above
and below the indicator. This because it will help the diagnostics and
hopefully prevent accidental actuation of the trim buttons on the stick.
I've heard about an accident, where one of the factors was inadvertely
trim up during takeoff. Other then that, i know that intermittend faults
are really difficult to solve. The only way to do it is by try and
error,
first starting with the replacement of most suspect parts. First problem
here is that nobody seems to have an idea what part to suspect first,
and
second is, that the problem part of the equasion might happen at a time
where you can't afford it.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Spark plug change intervals |
Hi All,
I have a Rotax 914T. I was wondering how long people typically keep there spark
plugs before replacing them.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Starter kick back.... |
SOUNDS LIKE LOW VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER AFTER A FEW CRANKS.
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
Received-SPF: none (dbmail-mx1.orcon.net.nz: domain of bill.sue(at)zip.co.nz
does not designate permitted sender hosts)
receiver=dbmail-mx1.orcon.net.nz;
client-ip=60.234.97.41;
envelope-from=;
helo=billsue;
From: | "Bill & Sue Sisley" <bill.sue(at)zip.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Spark plug change intervals |
I changed mine at 270hrs just because I had them out. Didn't really need to
and it made no difference to performance.
Sue and Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Spark plug change intervals
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have a Rotax 914T. I was wondering how long people typically keep there
spark plugs before replacing them.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Just started filling and finishing the fuselage joint etc with expancell
mixed as required in the manual.
Seems to be taking a long time to harden, is this usual, how long have you
had to wait before sanding. Humidity 40% Temp average 22 deg.
Regards Dave Park
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Audy" <rickaudy(at)msn.com> |
I sure hope that is Celsius (a reasonable temperature) and not farenheit.
Rick
>Just started filling and finishing the fuselage joint etc with expancell
>mixed as required in the manual. Seems to be taking a long time to harden,
>is this usual, how long have you had to wait before sanding. Humidity 40%
>Temp average 22 deg.
>Regards Dave Park
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Or Kelvin! :-)
Dave - the few bits I've done so far cured overnight to a sandable state -
no different to Ampreg and glass, flox or micro.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Audy
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finishing
I sure hope that is Celsius (a reasonable temperature) and not farenheit.
Rick
>Just started filling and finishing the fuselage joint etc with expancell
>mixed as required in the manual. Seems to be taking a long time to harden,
>is this usual, how long have you had to wait before sanding. Humidity 40%
>Temp average 22 deg.
>Regards Dave Park
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
HI Dave
I found that if I made the mix quite dry it sanded better. Also overnight
was not good enough but waiting until the following day made the sanding
much better.
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DvdPar(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Finishing
Just started filling and finishing the fuselage joint etc with expancell
mixed as required in the manual.
Seems to be taking a long time to harden, is this usual, how long have you
had to wait before sanding. Humidity 40% Temp average 22 deg.
Regards Dave Park
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AVIATION GROUP <aviationgrp(at)YAHOO.COM> |
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
AVIATION News Group is to view & share your valuable comments and the latest trends
and happenings in the aviation industry.
Please click on the attached yahoo group link site to share & receive the updates
on the latest happenings, business ventures, business opportunities, Air Shows
and Exhibitions, New Aircraft releases, and certifications, Career news, Appointments
etc.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AVIATION-NEWS/
Please take few moments recommend us to your near & dears in the industry. We
welcome your valuable comments and updates.
With best regards
AVIATION NEWS.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AVIATION-NEWS/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks all,
I think Ill just turn the temp up a bit ''C''!
Dave Park
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
I have used SP System 106 epoxy and expancel. The result is perfect.
Sandable next day. Much cheaper then Ampreg and SP System recommend it
for this use. Use slow 106 hardener, standard is too fast.
SP System has a primer called Hibuild. Gives an excellent surface.
But you can also use it as a "pin-hole-killer" if you mix same expancel
into it. One thin layer on the surface and the pin-hole is no more.
Hibuild as a primer does not take care of the pin-holes.
Regards
Stephan
#556
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy
Davey
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finishing
Or Kelvin! :-)
Dave - the few bits I've done so far cured overnight to a sandable state
-
no different to Ampreg and glass, flox or micro.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1350 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Audy
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finishing
I sure hope that is Celsius (a reasonable temperature) and not
farenheit.
Rick
>Just started filling and finishing the fuselage joint etc with
expancell
>mixed as required in the manual. Seems to be taking a long time to
harden,
>is this usual, how long have you had to wait before sanding. Humidity
40%
>Temp average 22 deg.
>Regards Dave Park
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ACJARVIS1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: sat 23 april club trip |
hi Dave
Thanks so much for the message about the le Touquet trip. I would have loved
to come somehow but it's my parents' diamond wedding complete with message
from the Queen so I will have to mis thiss one. Remember we are going for a
flight one day though and I'll buy the fuel!
On Friday ,long overdue, I'm bonding in the tail torque tube, with help from
Roger Sheridan. he's a lovely chap. I got a bit bogged down building a jig but
I'm glad I did as it all looks more organized now.
In early March Viv and I went up to Yorkshire and called in at Europa of
course. It was all uncannily the same . I bought a few bits and pieces and had
a
nice chat with Andy.
I raised the subject of the glider version but the inevitable answer is they
just dont have time or money to re start the testing needed ....I wonder if
you've any thoughts as how one might re kindle club interest in the 'glider' .
As you know I find it heart breaking that such performance potential is being
neglected....
Anyway have a wonderful day, and thanks again for your help with the module!
All the best,
Andrew
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Puglise" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | sat 23 april club trip |
Andrew-
I am going to Lakeland toward the end of the week for the express
purpose of asking Andy about the glider. I have a glider wing kit, and
both my wife and I are rated, but Bob B. tells me that there is
(essentially) no manual and the build is a real bear. I would really
like to see them get back into it. That is what differentiates the
Eurpoa from all of the others out there. Had we known that the support
for that version was going to be cut off, we probably would have bought
a Jabiru. Again, had we known that they were having financial problems,
we might have gone a different route too. Ain't hindsight great?
Jim A 283, Punta Gorda, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ACJARVIS1(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: sat 23 april club trip
hi Dave
Thanks so much for the message about the le Touquet trip. I would have
loved
to come somehow but it's my parents' diamond wedding complete with
message
from the Queen so I will have to mis thiss one. Remember we are going
for a
flight one day though and I'll buy the fuel!
On Friday ,long overdue, I'm bonding in the tail torque tube, with help
from
Roger Sheridan. he's a lovely chap. I got a bit bogged down building a
jig but
I'm glad I did as it all looks more organized now.
In early March Viv and I went up to Yorkshire and called in at Europa
of
course. It was all uncannily the same . I bought a few bits and pieces
and had a
nice chat with Andy.
I raised the subject of the glider version but the inevitable answer is
they
just dont have time or money to re start the testing needed ....I wonder
if
you've any thoughts as how one might re kindle club interest in the
'glider' .
As you know I find it heart breaking that such performance potential is
being
neglected....
Anyway have a wonderful day, and thanks again for your help with the
module!
All the best,
Andrew
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Hi! Paul /all
AS I said in my post below I tried to fault my trim switches/motor for
about an hour to no avail. Took the a/c to do it's annual fight tests
today everything fine during take off and all preliminary checks when I
repeatedly operated the trim to full travel both directions and trying
to operate both panel and stick top switches to confuse it but it worked
totally satisfactorily.
Later did all the stall tests and VNE dive etc. but on my return from
getting to 30 miles nautical away from RAF Conningsby out over the
sea(there was abnormal military activity from both there and Waddington
to go any other direction) for the radio check I noticed the trim to be
slightly nose up (I guess due to fuel having been used ) hey presto! the
trim would not return to trim nose down yet again. For the next 15
minutes I kept the nose down trim button on the stick top pressed and it
came back to life and once again worked faultlessly during landing
de-rigging and stowage in the trailer.
I will have to try the light across the motor connections as has been
suggested but can any electronics wizards please advise if there is any
possibility that the relay deck may be causing this intermittent
problem?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG EuropaMKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: R.C.Harrison [mailto:ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk]
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric trim problems.
Hi! Paul
I can confirm that I have a similar problem (or I'm hoping I HAD!)
For some time I have had an intermittent similar problem. The trim will
always go nose up no problem but should I go a LED bar too far it won't
reverse until I take it full nose up (huge control stick forces) then it
usually but sometimes only after about a minute will return. I suspected
the servo motor which since my Kit No. is 337 I guess will be the old
one. I had lots of written exchanges with the Ray Allen Co. resulting in
my sending it back for check over since they had concluded that an "end
or limiter switch wasn't allowing the reversing of the motor. I
returned it to them unfortunately they had a bad day when they received
it and didn't link my motor with my communications but checked it out
and found no fault.
I refitted it and when plugging my connectors at the panel back together
I discovered an internally broken or badly crimped wire.
I remade the wire connection and "hey presto". After two years it seemed
sorted!
However since then the problem has again returned and I have not been
able to get it to repeat on demand. The last time I flew I did my
pre-flight checks and I trimmed up a couple of LED bars and it wouldn't
return, pulled off the ramp and sat operating both the control on the
stick and the one on the panel. After about 10 minutes of multiple
switching it came back to life. I flew my mission ensuring not to trim
too far nose up, and on the return leg repeatedly trimmed nose up then
nose down without problem.
I have again checked all my connectors and stood for an hour trying to
reproduce the problem to no avail. I'm wondering if it is the relay
deck?
If you manage to isolate your problem would you be good enough to let me
know?
Best regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Hi all,
I posted a similar message on the Aeroelectric board. I am having
intermittent problems with my electric trim. Sometimes when I need to
slow and trim the aircraft for landing the trim motor won't actuate. I
initially suspected the down trim button, but once I had it not wanting
to respond to an "UP" button press as well.
I have wriggled wires, plugs and un plugged terminations and driven the
servo to the end stops but I haven't been able to duplicate the problem
on the ground. I am starting to suspect the servo and I am thinking it
might be having trouble reversing direction with air loads.
I'd be interested in anyone's ideas for trouble shooting. I have a 4 way
trim switch with a Ray Allen relay deck driving an older MAC servo unit.
One last question, can any one tell me the new part number for the servo
unit.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
Bob,
Unfortunately everything in the chain is suspect, from the switch,
connectors, crimps, relay deck, cabling to the servo, to the servo its self.
A led would be a great trouble shooting aid, and its a matter of where do
you want to put it in the chain of events to start breaking the problem
down.
In my case I am very suspicious of the crimps I have made on the relay deck
wires as they are very fine. I have decided to buy one of Matt Dralle's
speed controllers because it replaces the relay deck, and makes my trim
motor speed adjustable. This solves my trim sensitivity problem and removes
a suspect part out of the chain.
I'll keep you posted.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems. |
> I will have to try the light across the motor connections as has been
> suggested but can any electronics wizards please advise if there is any
> possibility that the relay deck may be causing this intermittent
> problem?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG EuropaMKI/Jabiru 3300
>
Bob
I have been referred to as such from time to time (wizard)
Relays are notorious for failures in the way you described. Some designs of
relalys are better than others. It depends on there usage. In the trim
motor usage, the current is quit low and the repetition rate of use is very
low. This requires a dust covered relay with a wiping action on the points.
I don't know what kind of relay you are using. The ones I used are of the
type I described and have not failed (yet). I have a separate trim power
switch, because the other problem that relays have is they stay conducting
after you release the switch. (known as trim run-away)
The problem you have been describing sound more like a broken wire in the
control column. (but you have two sets of up-down switches)
Happy hunting !!!!. Use the light bulb trick and then you will know which
end of the plane the trouble is in.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Starter kick back.... |
I'M USING AN ODDESSY BATTERY ALSO,IT IS MUCH BETTER THAN THE CONCORD BATTERY
EVER WAS.IT IS 2 YEARS OLD NOW AND AND IF IT SITS FOR 2 WEEKS THERE IS ABOUT A
1/2 TO 1 VOLT DROP AT THE BATTERY. A SOLAR CHARGER ON THE BATTERY ($10.00
FROM HARBOR FREIGHT)NOW MAINTAINS A FULL CHARGE AND HAS MADE STARTING MUCH EASIER.
SAM N77EU XS MONOWHEEL 914 ROTAX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Spark plug change intervals |
LESS THAN 50 HRS USUALLY,DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH 100LL I USE.
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
TRY SUPERFIL,ITS PREMIXED AND MORE CONSISTANT AND EASY TO USE,YOU WILL SAVE
ALOT OF TIME LATER ON WHEN SANDING.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Guys,
I have to echo Sam's comments regarding Superfil. I started with Expancel
and West Systems Epoxy and while it is cheap, the effort of mixing the stuff
up and trying to get a good batch to batch consistency is just not worth it.
I also got a bunch more pins holes with Expancel.
The other problem I had was with moisture ingress. I had to repaint the
side of my aircraft where I had used it due to moisture finding its way in
and then finding its way back out again when it was baked after painting. I
didn't have any such problems with Superfil. Yep, its more expensive, but
in my experience it wasn't worth the effort.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems. |
Thanks Cliff/Paul
I have the Menzimer purpose made relay deck. I don't think it is a wire
again because when the problem is present it is on both the stick
circuit (micro switch) AND the panel circuit (rocker switch and the LED
display have also replaced by Ray Allen Company)
As you say I must get a light into circuit(or two!) or even chance
changing the damn relay because that may cause a probable wire fault to
get thrown out!
I don't have a problem with the speed of trim.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
> I will have to try the light across the motor connections as has
been
> suggested but can any electronics wizards please advise if there is
any
> possibility that the relay deck may be causing this intermittent
> problem?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG EuropaMKI/Jabiru 3300
>
Bob
I have been referred to as such from time to time (wizard)
Relays are notorious for failures in the way you described. Some designs
of
relalys are better than others. It depends on there usage. In the trim
motor usage, the current is quit low and the repetition rate of use is
very
low. This requires a dust covered relay with a wiping action on the
points.
I don't know what kind of relay you are using. The ones I used are of
the
type I described and have not failed (yet). I have a separate trim
power
switch, because the other problem that relays have is they stay
conducting
after you release the switch. (known as trim run-away)
The problem you have been describing sound more like a broken wire in
the
control column. (but you have two sets of up-down switches)
Happy hunting !!!!. Use the light bulb trick and then you will know
which
end of the plane the trouble is in.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | "Fly" Show, Earl's Court, London |
At the end of the "Fly" show last weekend a pair of keys was found on the
Europa/AFE stand.
These keys are marked ACSxxxx and are obviously from an ACS Ignition switch.
If you have lost the keys to your aircraft's mag/starter switch please
contact:-
John Wheeler at Europa(2004) Telephone 01751 431773
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk or direct
g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
We used the Expancel from Europa with the AeroPoxy also from Europa and ACS.
We test sanded after a couple of days but usually ended up letting our
filler cure for nearly a week prior to sanding since in Michigan we have
high humidity. We also devised a formula for mixing so each batch was
fairly consistent. We rolled on six coats of Poly Fiber Smooth Prime and
again let it cure fully. We really think the cure is important and followed
Poly Fiber's recommendations for each product (Smooth Prime, Epoxy Primer
and Aerothane). Paint has been completed for six months and really looks
great!
Jim & Heather Butcher A185 N241BW
XS 914 Finishing FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
Subject: | Re: Glider Wings |
Our glider wings are in the container that's about to arrive in NC. We
assume there is a manual inside too! Dave Anderson helped Neville develop
the manual and should be able to assist. We also have a friend nearby who
is building the glider version (received kit Nov 2003) who has a glider
manual. So we don't anticipate huge problems. We'll post a message when we
get the wing kit in a few weeks.
Jim & Heather Butcher A185 N241BW
XS 914 Finishing FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Glider Wings |
On behalf of the Europa Flyer magazine, I'd be very pleased if you'll keep
us posted on your progress, Jim, and I'd love to feature it in a future
issue.
Regards
Peter Grant
10 The Sidings, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 5UA, UK
Tel: 01507 523180 Fax: 01507 525888 Mobile: 07774 923160
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This email is intended for the sole use of the addressee. If you have
received this email in error, please contact the sender and
delete the message. I can accept no liability for misuse
of this email however caused. Outgoing emails are automatically scanned by
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Butcher
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Glider Wings
Our glider wings are in the container that's about to arrive in NC. We
assume there is a manual inside too! Dave Anderson helped Neville develop
the manual and should be able to assist. We also have a friend nearby who
is building the glider version (received kit Nov 2003) who has a glider
manual. So we don't anticipate huge problems. We'll post a message when we
get the wing kit in a few weeks.
Jim & Heather Butcher A185 N241BW
XS 914 Finishing FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems |
<<>>
Paul,
I would be interested in more info. on this. I am using the MAC grips with
the trim switches and don't have a relay deck. From the recent thread I am
assuming I need more than just switches on the stick and the servo and
indicator. Thanks again.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Finishing To PAUL McAllister |
Hi Paul;
I'm just now starting to do some control area work. I know many have used
Superfil rather than the Expancel and epoxy mix. I have not yet experienced the
ecstasy of finish sanding. From what I gather it appears to really be a
chore.
Why is this Superfil better?
Is it softer therefore easier to sand? If so, what about durability?
What about this "pin hole" business?
If I use Superfil Will I need to use their brand primer and paint as well?
Thanks in advance.
With any luck. I'll be in Florida this time tomorrow! Hope to see a few of
your there!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
Why 6 coats of smooth prime? This product is rolled on?
Does it take 6 coats to cover the pin holes?
Knowing less than nothing about finishing.....
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
From: | Dave_Miller(at)avivacanada.com |
04/13/2005 11:52:52 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/13/2005 11:52:52 AM
Smooth prime does not really need six coats. The only problem I found with
it, is that if rolled on it forms a fairly rough surface and requires lots
more sanding to get things back smooth enough for painting.
One positive however is that it quickly shows you the areas that aren't
quite as nicely filled as you had first imagined.
Like others, I've found the epoxy mixed filler takes a long time to fully
cure. Aeropoxy light filler worked well for me and it is less fussy about
the temperature for curing.
Dave A061 - wishing I could be at Sun n Fun
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
Sent by: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
04/13/2005 10:34 AM
Please respond to europa-list
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Finishing JIM
Why 6 coats of smooth prime? This product is rolled on?
Does it take 6 coats to cover the pin holes?
Knowing less than nothing about finishing.....
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
Hi! Brian
To be rid of pin holes in Smooth Prime you use a "ragging"
Process.(trick!) whilst rollering when you see a pin hole you either use
the edge of your roller to scuff Smooth Prime into the hole and roller
over it or take a piece of lint free rag and scrub Smooth Prime into the
hole with your finger.
The beauty of Smooth Prime is that it is easy to cut back and can be
over rolled almost at will.
Use a spray can of black matt paint to put a mist all over the area to
be sanded and watch the low areas begin to show up as you sand.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Finishing JIM
Why 6 coats of smooth prime? This product is rolled on?
Does it take 6 coats to cover the pin holes?
Knowing less than nothing about finishing.....
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
What is even cooler than using spray black enamel is a product from 3M
called guide coat. It is a very fine black power that you bush on with a
pad. It does a perfect job of showing you where all of your scratches are.
Paul
> Use a spray can of black matt paint to put a mist all over the area to
> be sanded and watch the low areas begin to show up as you sand.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
Brian,
We used six coats because that is Poly Fiber's recommendation. It is to
protect the fiberglass from UV as well as to fill pinholes and provide a
hard smooth surface for subsequent paint. The hints that Bob Harrison
suggested are good. We used a spray can "guide coat" (you can purchase this
at an autobody supply shop) that we liked a lot. We tried the 3M powder
without much success. It's a personal preference thing but be sure to
purchase good quality sand paper and 3M makes a soft yellow foam sanding
block that we used a lot. If you have a 24" Permagrit bar, you can attach
sandpaper to it to make a long bar. We used 3" wide self adhesive
sandpaper, Norton I believe.
Have fun. It takes a lot of time but Neville couldn't figure out how to
include the sanding in the 51%!!
Jim & Heather Butcher A185
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Subject: | Re: Finishing JIM |
I used 3M Guide coat but did not like it particularly. I found it hard to
get an even spread and the black dust "migrated" round the area you are
sanding giving a false impression of what was low.
After that I stuck to sprayed black which seemed to work well.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Finishing JIM
What is even cooler than using spray black enamel is a product from 3M
called guide coat. It is a very fine black power that you bush on with a
pad. It does a perfect job of showing you where all of your scratches are.
Paul
> Use a spray can of black matt paint to put a mist all over the area to
> be sanded and watch the low areas begin to show up as you sand.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
Tower Hobbies sells aluminum sanding bars in various lengths.
They are shaped so they are easy to hold and if you buy a long
one you can easily cut it to length on a band saw.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&ILXK317&P7
John Eckel, A230
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Jones" <jronjones(at)lineone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems |
Troy,
I seem to remember that when I received my Mac stick-grips, there was a note
in the box saying "...the micro-switches have now been up-graded and a
relay is no longer needed if using the Mac trim servo" (or words to that
effect!) That was about 3 years ago and my memory may be at fault but it is
worth checking with Mac IMHO.
Regards,
Ron Jones (XS 395, 912S, G-RJWX)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems |
Troy,
>I would be interested in more info. on this. I am using the MAC grips
with
> the trim switches and don't have a relay deck. From the recent thread
I am
> assuming I need more than just switches on the stick and the servo and
> indicator.
It depends on whether or not you will have a second set of trim
switches on the co-pilots stick. If there is only one set of switches,
then you won't need the relay deck. If you have a second set of
switches, you will need the relay deck. I can scan the instructions
for the MAC trim systems and send them along or post them on the Europa
Owners site if you wish.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n952jl <n952jl(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems |
Instead of relay, wired in a ab(pilot/copilot) switch. When in the
pilot's position his grip has the trim, in the copilot's position the
copilot's switch has it. no problems the first 35 hrs.
Joe Like
A086 N952JL
rlborger wrote:
>
>Troy,
>
> >I would be interested in more info. on this. I am using the MAC grips
>with
> > the trim switches and don't have a relay deck. From the recent thread
>I am
> > assuming I need more than just switches on the stick and the servo and
> > indicator.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fuselage repairs |
From: | grroberts3(at)juno.com |
Had a little accident. Need to repair some damage to the lower fuselage.
Anyone know the ply count in the lower aft portion. I'm thinking 2 ply
bid/ foam/ 2ply bid.
GRoberts
A187
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric trim problems |
<<<<<<
It depends on whether or not you will have a second set of trim
switches on the co-pilots stick. If there is only one set of switches,
then you won't need the relay deck. If you have a second set of
switches, you will need the relay deck. I can scan the instructions
for the MAC trim systems and send them along or post them on the Europa
Owners site if you wish.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger>>>>>>
Hello Bob,
Thanks for that info. Not sure which vintage switches I have, but I only
have trim on the pilots side. It is the G5 stick grip. If you would put the
diagram on the Europa Owners Site that would be great. This forum of helpful
folks is great.
Later....
Troy Maynor
N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lance Sandford" <sandford(at)melbpc.org.au> |
Subject: | Electric trim problems |
Troy
All the wiring diagrams are available at
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACinfo/downloadpg.html
No need for scanning.
Lance Sandford
Builder 471 in OZ
> It depends on whether or not you will have a second set of trim
> switches on the co-pilots stick. If there is only one set of switches,
> then you won't need the relay deck. If you have a second set of
> switches, you will need the relay deck. I can scan the instructions
> for the MAC trim systems and send them along or post them on the Europa
> Owners site if you wish.
>
> Good building and great flying,
> Bob Borger>>>>>>
>
> Hello Bob,
> Thanks for that info. Not sure which vintage switches I have, but I only
> have trim on the pilots side. It is the G5 stick grip. If you
> would put the
> diagram on the Europa Owners Site that would be great. This forum
> of helpful
> folks is great.
> Later....
>
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Europa Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Rear door bolt sensors |
Cheers,
I have just reinstalled a new operating system in my computor,
and have misplaced the 2005 latest email messages, within which someone was
discussing the title details. I promised a copy of my installation plans and
now cannot find the correspondent who asked for them.
I apologise for this and ask him (them) to renew the contact so
I can send the plans.
Thanks, Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Subject: | Warp drive prop colors? |
I see on Warp Drives website they offer different color blades, and white tips
as an option.
Has anyone used different color other than Black?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: Rear door bolt sensors |
From: | "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
Ferg, all the messages are available at http://www.europaowners.org and in the archives and will stay there for a very long time.
Hope it helps,
Jos Okhuijsen from Sun ' Fun enjoying himself like a pig in shit
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Subject: | Warp drive prop colors? |
Hi! Ron
The rear of the blade must be matt black otherwise you will not see
through it so well. Front of the blades are best kept cool in sun light
and should be a light colour.
Regards
Bob Harrison Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: Warp drive prop colors?
I see on Warp Drives website they offer different color blades, and
white tips
as an option.
Has anyone used different color other than Black?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Fuel pumps - par'l or series? |
Cheers,
I have not monitored the net for the last three days, due new
system, but I asked locally about the query regarding fuel pump
installation, and the answer I got follows [permission not requested so
source not divulged]:
"| Rotax only recommends the series system with check valves. (As shown in
the
| maintenance manual Page 32) The reason is that at very high fuel demands
the
| parallel system may allow some fuel to bypass thru one of the pumps. We
have
| never witnessed this in practical application but it is the factories
| opinion that it could happen.
|
| We have a neat fuel manifold that tidies up the fuel pump installation but
| it is not been tested yet. The factory has agreed it meets the drawing
| criteria from the maintenance manual. See pic."
I am looking into the manifold suggestion. Factory may wish to comment.
Happy landings,
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel pumps - par'l or series? |
Depends on the pump.
Roller cell pumps won't/can't backflow. That is until some dirt has been
through it (or it has been run dry) and has shredded the roller tracks.
However, these types of pump normally have (and/or can be specified to have)
a built-in check valve that additionally prevents backflow.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pumps - par'l or series?
>
> Cheers,
> I have not monitored the net for the last three days, due new
> system, but I asked locally about the query regarding fuel pump
> installation, and the answer I got follows [permission not requested so
> source not divulged]:
>
> "| Rotax only recommends the series system with check valves. (As shown in
> the
> | maintenance manual Page 32) The reason is that at very high fuel demands
> the
> | parallel system may allow some fuel to bypass thru one of the pumps. We
> have
> | never witnessed this in practical application but it is the factories
> | opinion that it could happen.
> |
> | We have a neat fuel manifold that tidies up the fuel pump installation
but
> | it is not been tested yet. The factory has agreed it meets the drawing
> | criteria from the maintenance manual. See pic."
>
> I am looking into the manifold suggestion. Factory may wish to comment.
> Happy landings,
> Ferg
> A064
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Subject: | Cooling 914 XS Mono with Course Pitch? |
Was reading on Airmaster manual, and it hints of using manual Course Pitch if
things get hot under the cowl on the ground.
I was wondering just how effective this is in real life on europa monwheel
914?
What RPM seems to keep things happiest on ground when things get hot?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Please ignore my test.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Rear door bolt sensors |
Forgot that, Jos! Thanks.
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi>
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Rear door bolt sensors
| Ferg, all the messages are available at http://www.europaowners.org and in
the archives and will stay there for a very long time.
| Hope it helps,|
| Jos Okhuijsen from Sun ' Fun enjoying himself like a pig in shit
WERE YOU IN THE CANADIAN AIR FORCE, JOS?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Sun N Fun Report |
From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
04/18/2005 09:04:08 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/18/2005 09:04:08 AM
Greetings All,
Just returned from Sun N Fun.
Flew 224xs NYC - LAL - NYC almost all IFR (actually under the hood mostly,
but some IMC)
Funny thing about the wind, it was always on the nose. All told about 18
hr of flying
The show was very nice indeed. About 8 Europaphiles converged at the
local Hooters for a round of
drinks and good cheer. The Armstrongs also had their Europa on the
Flightline.
Andy manned the company booth and showed the flag and there seemed to be
good foot traffic.
I had the pleasure of having Andy fly with me and after some fits and
starts on the ground
including overheated brakes and runway closed by an AT-6 with collapsed
gear. Andy pronounced
that 4XS flies like a Europa (but perhaps a bit faster ;-) ). On landing,
we had a hold at Lake
Parker followed by a go around command at 100 feet. I had had a rudder
trim issue at high
cruise (140 145 kts) which he fixed for me as well.
The only problem of my trip occurred at Chesapeake Regional on the return
leg. The wind was 40kts +
and when I opened my door at the fuel depot, the wind took it out of my
hand and snapped it against its
tang stops. The strut was torn cleanly off, the hinges bent and the tangs
delaminated. We continued
the flight home as the FBO was closed, the wind was horrible and freezing
cold.
Anyone else have this happen? What type of repair was needed?
Cheers,
Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk" <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk> |
Hi All,
Does any one know of a supplier of zolatone in the uk. I would
order it from Spruce, but being "hazardous" it would probably cost an
arm and a leg :-(
Cheers Danny
G-c.e.r.i
tri gear 50% complete 95% to go :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a full tin of zolatone unused, make me an offer!
regards DAve PArk Bld, 371 Manchester
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "M@nsfield" <nsfield(at)screaming.net> |
Subject: | Transponder antenna |
Planning what transponder antenna to fit and where... I want to avoid putting
it exposed under the belly.
My likely choice is a Microair T2000 and I would like not to have to spring
for a Bob Archer ($$$), but am told that the stub antenna must (should?)
be mounted externally.
I've read everything I can in the archives, and asked the UK supplier of
the Microair, and still get several different answers.
Jim Nelson wrote on 20 Jan 2004 "I mounted mine in the back on the pilots
side. I mounted it vertical on three wooden rods which were reduxed to the
fuselage. Ran the coax up the pilots side just under the door jamb and on
to the transponder. Seems to work fine. No interferance or noised noted."
This seems the logical answer, is this the stub (2.5"?) antenna & can you
elaborate on the 3 wooden rod mount, please Jim?
Anybody know why I shouldn't mount the stub antenna internally (glass is
transparent, isn't it?) behind the baggage bay, without being too far from
the xpdr unit and without degrading the signal significantly?
Any other helpful, cheap, suggestions, please?
Paul M
Mono XS 383
CM etc in, top on next
Book yourself something to look forward to in 2005.
Cheap flights - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/flights/
Bargain holidays - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/holidays/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Colin John Howard Richardson" <cjh.richardson(at)virgin.net> |
Subject: | Transponder Antenna |
The original position of my antenna on a mono wheel was mounted on the back of
the baggage bay with the lower end of the antenna about 3inches (75 cms) above
the lower fuselage .
I had serious problems with the polar diagram (ie poor operation) from 45 deg left
of centre, through the nose to 30 deg right of centre. Caused almost certainly
by the landing gear and engine shielding the antenna.
Would suggest the best place would be on the lower surface of fuselage so that
the antenna can "see" 360 deg around and downwards.
My transponder was the Terra unit feeding a Terra antenna.
Hope this helps.
John
Monowheel now a tri-gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "M@nsfield" <nsfield(at)screaming.net> |
Subject: | Rudder cable tension springs |
Almost academic question re the rudder cable tension springs.
The manual p.22-6 says to hook one end of the spring to an FL10 spacer bolted
through the firewall at the front, but the other end to an OR9 spacer bolted
to the CS21 (attached to the rudder pedals).
The FL9 is a smaller spacer than the FL10 and the spring is kinda tight in
the smaller gap; a good fit in the FL10 though.
I asked Andy and he couldn't actually remember why different spacers were
specified at the time the manual was written - maybe tight fit with the engine
mount, but he couldn't be sure... we agreed it was best to just "build it
as written & not worry" ... but I do!! (only intellectually...)
Any clever ideas why the difference, please?
Paul M
Mono XS 383
CM etc in, top on next
Book yourself something to look forward to in 2005.
Cheap flights - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/flights/
Bargain holidays - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/holidays/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna |
M@nsfield a crit :
>Anybody know why I shouldn't mount the stub antenna internally (glass is
>transparent, isn't it?) behind the baggage bay, without being too far from
>the xpdr unit and without degrading the signal significantly?
>
>
Paul,
We hid a TED stub antenna, $ 20 in the lower rear fairing (MCR 4S).
RG 400 coax. Works wonderfully.
See http://gilles.thesee.free.fr/Ant_XPDR.htm
You can hide your COM/NAV/XPDR antennas provided the skin is not conductive.
The antenna is available at
See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/ted_transponder.php
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Transponder antenna |
From: | "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
The glass is transparent, but the engine, firewall, instrument panel,
etc. aren't. If you assume the radar is dead ahead of you, mounting the
xponder antenna directly behind all that may hide it from the intended
audience. We mounted ours under the belly, just behind the wheel, with
the assumption that it would be visible to the destination airport's
radar.
Regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gilles
Thesee
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Transponder antenna
--> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
M@nsfield a crit :
>Anybody know why I shouldn't mount the stub antenna internally (glass
>is transparent, isn't it?) behind the baggage bay, without being too
>far from the xpdr unit and without degrading the signal significantly?
>
>
Paul,
We hid a TED stub antenna, $ 20 in the lower rear fairing (MCR 4S).
RG 400 coax. Works wonderfully.
See http://gilles.thesee.free.fr/Ant_XPDR.htm
You can hide your COM/NAV/XPDR antennas provided the skin is not
conductive.
March 26, 2005 - April 18, 2005
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-eq