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Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ic
March 07, 2010 - April 11, 2010

Like with many of my fellow countrymen, the response to a message in French might prove considerably quicker. Best regards, -- Gilles http://contrails.free.fr > ** > > * * > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Boyle" <martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 07, 2010
I am in Australia and we assemble a simular hosefor use on brakes our hose is swaged {crimped} we can make it for you but will need some info Thanks Martin ----- Original Message ----- From: mau11 To: europa-list Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 2:54 AM Subject: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Hi all, I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? Thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- mau11 06-03-2010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Boyle" <martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 07, 2010
----- Original Message ----- From: Martin Boyle To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:20 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose I am in Australia and we assemble a simular hosefor use on brakes our hose is swaged {crimped} we can make it for you but will need some info Thanks Martin ----- Original Message ----- From: mau11 To: europa-list Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 2:54 AM Subject: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Hi all, I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? Thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- mau11 06-03-2010 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 914 blowing oil out of turbo
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Mar 07, 2010
I stumbled on this failure: http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:7Q5xRij0Ns8J:www.37000feet.com/report/759483+rotax+914+failures&cd=6&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us Clogged oil return line on 914 blows oil out of turbo. Synthetic or semi synthetic and allowing proper cool down helps to prevent. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289531#289531 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steade" <steade(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Naca Vent Position
Date: Mar 08, 2010
I'm trying to find the recommended position for the Naca fresh air vents in the front fuselage side. I understand that at one time the factory recommended a position and produced a drawing. From an approval point of view with the LAA it would help considerably if I stayed with this recommendation. If anyone has access to this drawing then a copy would be greatly appreciated. Regards David Steade ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: Spare blades wanted for NSI CAP140
Date: Mar 08, 2010
Hi All Due to a woopsy this morning my NSI CAP 140 finds itself short of blades. Does anyone have a set of 62 inch tapered blades they wish to dispose of. I will take a complete CAP 140 if you want to get rid of the lot. Thanks Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: Spare blades wanted for NSI CAP140 == NOW SORTED = WARP
DRIVE SUPPLY AND MAXWELL PROPULSION WILL FIT!!
Date: Mar 08, 2010
-----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Lawless Sent: 08 March 2010 16:58 Subject: Europa-List: Spare blades wanted for NSI CAP140 Hi All Due to a woopsy this morning my NSI CAP 140 finds itself short of blades. Does anyone have a set of 62 inch tapered blades they wish to dispose of. I will take a complete CAP 140 if you want to get rid of the lot. Thanks Pete -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Hydraulic brake hose
Mike, OK, I see what you have there. Yes, the same banjo parts are available here on this side of the pond (http://www.anplumbing.com). I had hoped that what you used was a banjo hose end. Now that I know what you did, I need to locate a proper female AN flared fitting hose end to replace the 90 degree hose end provided. Perhaps I can go to anplumbing.com and find the hose end as they have the banjo, bolt and washers. Thanks muchly for your help, Bob Borger PS - That also means that I can use the same sort of banjo setup on the bottom of the Europa supplied hand master cylinder. That provides interesting opportunities. On Monday, March 08, 2010, at 01:29PM, "Mike Parkin" wrote: > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 08, 2010
Mike, et al, After following and just now reviewing this thread, I find I'm not clear as to just what the issues are with the stock Europa XS mono brake, apart from the substitution of a stick-mounted motorcycle-type hand grip for the stock, tunnel-mounted, hand brake/master cylinder. I do understand the desirability of having 2 right hands during run-up with the stock setup, and consequently, I fashioned a detent for the hand brake as shown in the attached photo. Whether or not the detent will hold the brake full-on during runup is not known, but for the time being I'm hoping it will serve while I progress w/ other more challenging aspects of my build. So here's a question...If one were to retain the stock XS mono hand brake lever and master cylinder, are there issues with the kit- supplied hydraulic line and its connection to the wheel mounted brake assembly which warrant substitution using the recently posted banjo fittings? Fred A194 On Mar 8, 2010, at 11:29 AM, Mike Parkin wrote: > Hello Bob and anyone else wanting the monowheel brake info, > > I went to the hydraulic store to day, fortunately he had a computer > record of what I bought last year. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 08, 2010
Hi Fred, Ya, the stock factory configuration simply requires too many hands for my complete comfort. It works, but the right hand can be quite busy between the throttle and brake. There's a very fine line on the throttle friction between difficult to operate and having the throttle spring slowly slip the throttle forward. And it isn't the easiest thing to adjust that friction either. Then there's the lack of a parking brake to hold things during run-up. Hold the stick in your knees, the brake in the right hand and reach across with the left to set the throttle. The one-armed paper hanger comes to mind. The stick mounted master solves all those problems easily. There are no issues on the brake end of things if you stick with the stock setup. The issue arises when you want to switch out to the stick mounted brake. All the brake fittings are straight threads not pipe threads so AN816 nipple adaptors from NPT to Flared Tube don't work. But a nice banjo fitting with banjo bolt work just jim dandy. I'll be posting a few pics from my trials and tribulations as soon as I send this . Hope this helps, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 8, 2010, at 14:57, Fred Klein wrote: > Mike, et al, > > After following and just now reviewing this thread, I find I'm not clear as to just what the issues are with the stock Europa XS mono brake, apart from the substitution of a stick-mounted motorcycle-type hand grip for the stock, tunnel-mounted, hand brake/master cylinder. > > I do understand the desirability of having 2 right hands during run-up with the stock setup, and consequently, I fashioned a detent for the hand brake as shown in the attached photo. Whether or not the detent will hold the brake full-on during runup is not known, but for the time being I'm hoping it will serve while I progress w/ other more challenging aspects of my build. > > So here's a question...If one were to retain the stock XS mono hand brake lever and master cylinder, are there issues with the kit-supplied hydraulic line and its connection to the wheel mounted brake assembly which warrant substitution using the recently posted banjo fittings? > > Fred > A194 > > > On Mar 8, 2010, at 11:29 AM, Mike Parkin wrote: > >> Hello Bob and anyone else wanting the monowheel brake info, >> >> I went to the hydraulic store to day, fortunately he had a computer record of what I bought last year. >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 08, 2010
Have you considered the Matco parking brake valve? I was told of it during the build by others, and am very pleased with the way it functions. It holds the brake on for days. I can do a full power runnup and it holds, no hands! I hold the stick between the knees so the left hand can operate the mag switches. Will you also have the factory brake master which can be operated from the right seat? Kevin Then there's the lack of a parking brake to hold things during run-up. Hold the stick in your knees, the brake in the right hand and reach across with the left to set the throttle. The one-armed paper hanger comes to mind. There are no issues on the brake end of things if you stick with the stock setup. The issue arises when you want to switch out to the stick mounted brake. All the brake fittings are straight threads not pipe threads so AN816 nipple adaptors from NPT to Flared Tube don't work. But a nice banjo fitting with banjo bolt work just jim dandy. I'll be posting a few pics from my trials and tribulations as soon as I send this . Hope this helps, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 8, 2010, at 14:57, Fred Klein wrote: Mike, et al, After following and just now reviewing this thread, I find I'm not clear as to just what the issues are with the stock Europa XS mono brake, apart from the substitution of a stick-mounted motorcycle-type hand grip for the stock, tunnel-mounted, hand brake/master cylinder. I do understand the desirability of having 2 right hands during run-up with the stock setup, and consequently, I fashioned a detent for the hand brake as shown in the attached photo. Whether or not the detent will hold the brake full-on during runup is not known, but for the time being I'm hoping it will serve while I progress w/ other more challenging aspects of my build. So here's a question...If one were to retain the stock XS mono hand brake lever and master cylinder, are there issues with the kit-supplied hydraulic line and its connection to the wheel mounted brake assembly which warrant substitution using the recently posted banjo fittings? Fred A194 On Mar 8, 2010, at 11:29 AM, Mike Parkin wrote: Hello Bob and anyone else wanting the monowheel brake info, I went to the hydraulic store to day, fortunately he had a computer record of what I bought last year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 08, 2010
Have you considered the Matco parking brake valve? I was told of it during the build by others, and am very pleased with the way it functions. It holds the brake on for days. I can do a full power runnup and it holds, no hands! I hold the stick between the knees so the left hand can operate the mag switches. Will you also have the factory brake master which can be operated from the right seat? Kevin Then there's the lack of a parking brake to hold things during run-up. Hold the stick in your knees, the brake in the right hand and reach across with the left to set the throttle. The one-armed paper hanger comes to mind. There are no issues on the brake end of things if you stick with the stock setup. The issue arises when you want to switch out to the stick mounted brake. All the brake fittings are straight threads not pipe threads so AN816 nipple adaptors from NPT to Flared Tube don't work. But a nice banjo fitting with banjo bolt work just jim dandy. I'll be posting a few pics from my trials and tribulations as soon as I send this . Hope this helps, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 8, 2010, at 14:57, Fred Klein wrote: Mike, et al, After following and just now reviewing this thread, I find I'm not clear as to just what the issues are with the stock Europa XS mono brake, apart from the substitution of a stick-mounted motorcycle-type hand grip for the stock, tunnel-mounted, hand brake/master cylinder. I do understand the desirability of having 2 right hands during run-up with the stock setup, and consequently, I fashioned a detent for the hand brake as shown in the attached photo. Whether or not the detent will hold the brake full-on during runup is not known, but for the time being I'm hoping it will serve while I progress w/ other more challenging aspects of my build. So here's a question...If one were to retain the stock XS mono hand brake lever and master cylinder, are there issues with the kit-supplied hydraulic line and its connection to the wheel mounted brake assembly which warrant substitution using the recently posted banjo fittings? Fred A194 On Mar 8, 2010, at 11:29 AM, Mike Parkin wrote: Hello Bob and anyone else wanting the monowheel brake info, I went to the hydraulic store to day, fortunately he had a computer record of what I bought last year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2010
From: John Wigney <johnwigney(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Brake wedge
Hi JR, I can testify that a wedge in the hand brake slot works well. I have used one for my plane since I first flew it 8 years ago. Nothing to go wrong and it is a completely reliable parking brake. Cheers, John, N262WF, mono XS, 912S Mooresville, North Carolina ORIGINAL MESSAGE From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Bob It used to be said that you have a tethered wedge to drop into the space vacated when you apply the brake and this will hold the pressure. JR kit 327 in Oz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2010
Subject: Re: Brake wedge
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi John "I can testify that a wedge in the hand brake slot works well." Do you by chance haveany pics? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Challis <kevinmarie(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Brakes
Date: Mar 09, 2010
I have a tri gear with finger brakes. I have 2 wedges on a piece of string. They work great. Kevin Challis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: rudder cable hint
Date: Mar 09, 2010
For those as slow as I am, I have been cutting rudder cable with everything but the paper scissors and ended up whacking a cold chisel against a steel table to cut the stuff, when my infuriating best neighbour said, "why don't you just visit the local bicycle shop? I bet they cut cable all day long". They do, and with a neat pair of cutters that do a superb job. I could kill him. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: rudder cable hint
Date: Mar 09, 2010
From: "Christoph Both" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Us e Dremel tool with a cut off wheel. Works like a charm. You won't believe how clean the cut is! Wear safety glasses. Christoph #223 From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 5:17 PM Subject: Europa-List: rudder cable hint For those as slow as I am, I have been cutting rudder cable with everything but the paper scissors and ended up whacking a cold chisel against a steel table to cut the stuff, when my infuriating best neighbour said, "why don't you just visit the local bicycle shop? I bet they cut cable all day long". They do, and with a neat pair of cutters that do a superb job. I could kill him. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: rudder cable hint
Date: Mar 09, 2010
Hi! Ferg So what is wrong with a slim cutting disc on a Dremel type tool? Regards Bob Harrison. _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle Sent: 09 March 2010 21:17 Subject: Europa-List: rudder cable hint For those as slow as I am, I have been cutting rudder cable with everything but the paper scissors and ended up whacking a cold chisel against a steel table to cut the stuff, when my infuriating best neighbour said, "why don't you just visit the local bicycle shop? I bet they cut cable all day long". They do, and with a neat pair of cutters that do a superb job. I could kill him. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: rudder cable hint
Wrap the cable with tape at the point you want to cut it. Place it on an anvil, center a sharp cold chisel on the tape and whack it. Done deal! Jeff - Baby Blue On 3/9/2010 4:12 PM, Christoph Both wrote: > Us e Dremel tool with a cut off wheel. Works like a charm. You wont > believe how clean the cut is! Wear safety glasses. > > Christoph > > #223 > > *From:* owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Fergus Kyle > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 09, 2010 5:17 PM > *To:* EUROPALIST > *Subject:* Europa-List: rudder cable hint > > For those as slow as I am, I have been cutting rudder cable with > everything but the paper scissors and ended up whacking a cold chisel > against a steel table to cut the stuff, when my infuriating best > neighbour said, why dont you just visit the local bicycle shop? I bet > they cut cable all day long. > > They do, and with a neat pair of cutters that do a superb job. I could > kill him. > > Ferg > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > * > > > * > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2010
Subject: Has anyone had static port clog on a Europa?
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Has anyone had a static port clog/ice upon a Europa? Did you have an alternative static valve? What are thoughts on installing an alternative valve on a XS I plan to fly VFR? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake wedge
Date: Mar 09, 2010
Ron, Just a 30 degree wedge of aluminium or suitable plastic, thick enough to more or less fill the slot, and about 2 - 2.5 ins long works well, and as a refinement drill a hole in the fat end and put a large key ring through it, which stops it going down the slot, if your brake gets that loose (which of course it shouldn't!), serves to hang it over the brake handle when not in use, and acts as a loop to put your finger in to pull it out of the slot when taking off the 'handbrake' Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 4:58 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Brake wedge > > > Hi John > "I can testify that a wedge in the hand brake slot > works well." > Do you by chance have any pics? > Ron > Parigoris > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Has anyone had static port clog on a Europa?
Date: Mar 10, 2010
Ron, Yes, I have an alternate source under the instrument panel where the static lines enters. Alternate source is the cockpit which I understand is very good, so it is taken off the static main line coming in with a 'tee' and a short tubing to a shutoff valve sticking down from under the instrument panel where you can easily reach it. Never used it. Cheers, Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street' Fendalton, Christchurch. NEW ZEALAND Ph. 64 3 3515166 Mob 021 0640221 Email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us To: Europa Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 12:18 PM Subject: Europa-List: Has anyone had static port clog on a Europa? Has anyone had a static port clog/ice up on a Europa? Did you have an alternative static valve? What are thoughts on installing an alternative valve on a XS I plan to fly VFR? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: rudder cable hint
Date: Mar 10, 2010
For those builders that want control cable cutters, I have a pair of CK cutters (CK TOOLS T3744, 190mm AIRCRAFT CABLE & WIRE ROPE CUTTER), they have worked perfectly. They are not very expensive and are readily available. See the attached ebay link. A google search showed plenty of suppliers on both sides of the pond. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CK-TOOLS-T3744-190mm-AIRCRAFT-CABLE-WIRE-ROPE-CUTTER_W 0QQitemZ180478517950QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item2a05 5ba2be regards, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: Naca Vent Position
Date: Mar 10, 2010
David, I do not know the factory recommanded position. For the position of the vents on my own airplane, see attached picture. They are very effective but the pilot side vent used to have a tendency to recycle exhaust gases at high angle of attack with the engine at low power, so I had to close it before approach and landing! I had to extend the exhaust pipe two inches to solve that problem. So I believe a higher and/or more forward position of the vents would have been better. I hope that helps. Regards Remi Guerner F-PGKL <<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan & Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Naca Vent Position
Date: Mar 10, 2010
Europa's original view on this was "...as far forward and as high as possible..." in the lower fuselage moulding. Duncan Mcf. ----- Original Message ----- From: Steade To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:22 PM Subject: Europa-List: Naca Vent Position I'm trying to find the recommended position for the Naca fresh air vents in the front fuselage side. I understand that at one time the factory recommended a position and produced a drawing. From an approval point of view with the LAA it would help considerably if I stayed with this recommendation. If anyone has access to this drawing then a copy would be greatly appreciated. Regards David Steade ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: CABLE CUTTING
Date: Mar 10, 2010
Thanks for the number of observations regarding cutting SS rudder cable..... yes, I tried each one and they are good - as bench tools. However, I should have said "I'm lying on my gut in the back of the aircraft, with my head about 1/2inch below the ceiling, and pocket change and hand tools sliding out of my pockets........* Now I need to clip about 1/16inch off the end of the cable. Do I drag in the high-speed drill and diamond disc, manage the cut without fraggling the ends or setting fire to the composite, then drag in the vacuum and seek out the tiny burnt ends?....or do I reach into my pocket, grip the cutter. save the 19 pieces of 1/16inch clippings in my other hand, and put the cutter away? Ferg PS: Whacking a chisel onto a steel plate don't cut the mustard 'back here', especially for 1/16inch clip. * I made a platform (which will eventually be a folding bed base) from the throttle stand through the headrests, span the back space and cantilever across the D-panel bottom to two supporters on either side of the fuselage at the canoe-join level. . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: CABLE CUTTING
Date: Mar 11, 2010
Hi! Ferg. Don't you have vacuum cleaners ? Hope you took your mobile 'phone with you or had someone standing by ready for you to get cramps across your chest with arms above your head so long.. Good idea about the bed but on wakening in a morning I wouldn't get out fast enough to get to the "karsi"! Regards Bob H _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle Sent: 10 March 2010 22:32 Subject: Europa-List: CABLE CUTTING Thanks for the number of observations regarding cutting SS rudder cable..... yes, I tried each one and they are good - as bench tools. However, I should have said "I'm lying on my gut in the back of the aircraft, with my head about 1/2inch below the ceiling, and pocket change and hand tools sliding out of my pockets........* Now I need to clip about 1/16inch off the end of the cable. Do I drag in the high-speed drill and diamond disc, manage the cut without fraggling the ends or setting fire to the composite, then drag in the vacuum and seek out the tiny burnt ends?....or do I reach into my pocket, grip the cutter. save the 19 pieces of 1/16inch clippings in my other hand, and put the cutter away? Ferg PS: Whacking a chisel onto a steel plate don't cut the mustard 'back here', especially for 1/16inch clip. * I made a platform (which will eventually be a folding bed base) from the throttle stand through the headrests, span the back space and cantilever across the D-panel bottom to two supporters on either side of the fuselage at the canoe-join level. . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: DOTH Sat. Old Buckenham
Date: Mar 11, 2010
Hi Folks, Saturday could be quite good, so how about a DOTH?. Flyer has a voucher for Old Buckenham and they have food at the weekend, so I suggest there at 1200ish. I can't add any more info because I don't think I've ever been there. Cheers, Paddy Paddy Clarke Europa G-KIMM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raymond Wren" <raymondwren(at)fastmail.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DOTH Sat. Old Buckenham
Date: Mar 12, 2010
Hi Paddy I hope to be there in the Liberty, subject to weather. Ray Wren N518XL -- raymondwren(at)fastmail.co.uk ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone?
Date: Mar 12, 2010
US Europaphiles, Anyone in need of Redux? Two other builders and I each need a kit. Anyone else want to get in on it. Saves about $35 on hazardous fees per kit. A case ships for the same price as a quart. Last purchase price was about $270 with shipping/hazardous (think of the children)... Contact: Bud Yerly at budyerly(at)msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2010
From: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com>
Subject: Question about Ground planes?
Dear Europaphiles,A quick question regarding ground planes and antennas; =C2-Does a =C2-ground plane need to be connected by wire to the main gro unding =C2-point in the aircraft?I can't find any really good explanations in my aircraft information literature.Cheers,Jeff Paris Europa Monowheel Cl assic #A012 Jab 3300 =C2-95% there 95% to go! ------------------------------------------------------------ Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! Nutrition http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=DfovbCiUM54VW9RxGachEAAAKZQqyui-RKcJE0geZt0 s0_dhAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQ0O_d8E ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Jeff- In a glass airplane you are much better off with a dipole.=C2- All a grou nd plane does is make it possible to use a quarter wave antenna instead of a half wave.=C2- For the Europa, there are several places you can put a v ertical dipole.=C2- Which radio are you asking about?=C2- To answer you r question directly, the ground plane is stand-alone, just like the other h alf of a dipole.=C2- If I were doing a ground plane in a Europa, I'd prob ably use several strands of copper wire or a thin aluminum plate under the vertical quarter wave.=C2-=C2-If you are near a library, check a copy o f the "ARRL Handbook 2010" for a full discussion of ground plane antennas. =C2- You could also Google "Ground Plane Antenna."=C2- I did and=C2-I found a calculator for an amateur ground plane.=C2- All you need to do i s plug the desired center frequency into the calculator, and it gives you t he radial and whip lengths. BTW, I am also about 95% with a tri-gear=C2-with a Jabiru 3300.=C2- Win gs, elevators, rudder, doors are at the painter and I am finishing the engi ne installation. Jim Puglise A-283=C2-=C2- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 5:23:50 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? Dear Europaphiles, A quick question regarding ground planes and antennas; =C2-Does a =C2-g round plane need to be connected by wire to the main grounding =C2-point in the aircraft? I can't find any really good explanations in my aircraft information litera ture. Cheers, Jeff Paris Europa Monowheel Classic #A012 Jab 3300 =C2-95% there 95% to g o! A quick question regarding ground planes and antennas; =C2-Does a =C2-g round plane need to be connected by wire to the main grounding =C2-point in the aircraft? I can't find any really good explanations in my aircraft information litera ture. Cheers, Jeff Paris Europa Monowheel Classic #A012 Jab 3300 =C2-95% there 95% to g o! =C2-=C2- Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! Nutrition Click Here For More Information ============ == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Date: Mar 12, 2010
Jeff Emphatically yes. Bob Knuckles book the Aeroelectric Connection has a good section on antennas. Different antennas require different ground planes, and his book does a good job. Well worth the money. Once you get into avionics, a lot of self study and and good crimping tools will make all the difference in your planes electrical performance. Regards, Bud Yerly CFC Europa Dealer ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey J Paris<mailto:jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 5:23 PM Subject: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? Dear Europaphiles, A quick question regarding ground planes and antennas; Does a ground plane need to be connected by wire to the main grounding point in the aircraft? I can't find any really good explanations in my aircraft information literature. Cheers, Jeff Paris Europa Monowheel Classic #A012 Jab 3300 95% there 95% to go! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!<http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=DfovbCiUM54VW9RxGachEAAAKZQqy ui-RKcJE0geZt0s0_dhAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQ0O_d8E= > Nutrition<http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=DfovbCiUM54VW9RxGachEAAAKZQqyu i-RKcJE0geZt0s0_dhAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQ0O_d8E=> Click Here For More Information<http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=DfovbCiUM54VW9RxGachEAAAKZQq yui-RKcJE0geZt0s0_dhAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQ0O_d8E= > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Date: Mar 12, 2010
On Mar 12, 2010, at 3:44 PM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote: > BTW, I am also about 95% with a tri-gear with a Jabiru 3300. Wings, > elevators, rudder, doors are at the painter and I am finishing the > engine installation. Jim, Would you mind letting me (us) know what prop you'll be using, and your rationale for your decision? Thanks, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Fred- I'm using a Sensenich ground adjustable.=C2- I have been working with Fli ght Crafters and it is their recommendation.=C2- They have installed seve ral with good results.=C2- It is really a pretty slick setup.=C2- The t wo blades are slaved, so you only need to adjust one, and there is a small gauge on the hub indicating the pitch. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 10:43:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? On Mar 12, 2010, at 3:44 PM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote: BTW, I am also about 95% with a tri-gear=C2-with a Jabiru 3300.=C2- Win gs, elevators, rudder, doors are at the painter and I am finishing the engi ne installation. Jim, Would you mind letting me (us) know what prop you'll be using, and your rat ionale for your decision? Thanks, Fred == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Date: Mar 12, 2010
On Mar 12, 2010, at 8:12 PM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote: > I'm using a Sensenich ground adjustable. Sounds good Jim...I've just spent the past few days emailing back & forth w/ Sensenich (Charley)...fortunately (for me) the Jab 3300 blade is also available as a "pusher" and can be set up as a CCW rotating tractor for my Sube...I figure it will be a nice "known" factor during initial flight testing...(not that I'm anywhere's near doing any). Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Jim=0AI think its a pity Sensenich don't do three blades. Two blades always cause yaw vibration which can't be balanced out. (due to the different AoA of the two blades when aircraft pitch is not the same as engine pitch, ie hi power climb) Three blades automatically balance it out.=0A=0AGraham=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "jimpuglise(at)comcast.ne t" =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturda y, 13 March, 2010 4:12:14=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes?=0A=0A=0AFred-=0A =0AI'm using a Sensenich ground adjustable. I ha ve been working with Flight Crafters and it is their recommendation. They have installed several with good results. It is really a pretty slick setu p. The two blades are slaved, so you only need to adjust one, and there is a small gauge on the hub indicating the pitch. =0A =0AJim =0A=0A----- Orig inal Message -----=0AFrom: "Fred Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>=0ATo: euro pa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, March 12, 2010 10:43:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes ?=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Mar 12, 2010, at 3:44 PM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:=0A =0ABTW, I am also about 95% with a tri-gear with a Jabiru 3300. Wings, ele vators, rudder, doors are at the painter and I am finishing the engine inst allation.=0A=0AJim,=0A=0AWould you mind letting me (us) know what prop you' ll be using, and your rationale for your decision?=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AFred D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan & Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground planes?
Date: Mar 13, 2010
Graham, Sensenich do do three blades on their composite prop (or they had it in development a couple of years ago). Probably the combined blade area will be too great for the 912S. And the price, given what only two blades cost. Duncan Mcf. ----- Original Message ----- From: GRAHAM SINGLETON To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 11:33 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? Jim I think its a pity Sensenich don't do three blades. Two blades always cause yaw vibration which can't be balanced out. (due to the different AoA of the two blades when aircraft pitch is not the same as engine pitch, ie hi power climb) Three blades automatically balance it out. Graham ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: "jimpuglise(at)comcast.net" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, 13 March, 2010 4:12:14 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? Fred- I'm using a Sensenich ground adjustable. I have been working with Flight Crafters and it is their recommendation. They have installed several with good results. It is really a pretty slick setup. The two blades are slaved, so you only need to adjust one, and there is a small gauge on the hub indicating the pitch. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 10:43:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: Europa-List: Question about Ground planes? On Mar 12, 2010, at 3:44 PM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote: BTW, I am also about 95% with a tri-gear with a Jabiru 3300. Wings, elevators, rudder, doors are at the painter and I am finishing the engine installation. Jim, Would you mind letting me (us) know what prop you'll be using, and your rationale for your decision? Thanks, Fred http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Question about Ground Adj. Props
Date: Mar 13, 2010
FWIW, Sensenich does offer a 3 blade composite ground adjustable prop for the 9XX designated 3BOR5R68C, weight 10 lbs., min. diameter of 64". Alas, the shanks of the 2 blade prop they make for the Jab 3300 relies on a different hub design and do not fit in the 3 blade-hub. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Question about Ground Adj. props
Date: Mar 13, 2010
FWIW, Sensenich does offer a 3 blade composite ground adjustable prop for the 9XX designated 3BOR5R68C, weight 10 lbs., min. diameter of 64"...max. rpm of 2700. I have a pdf which apparently won't post to the list...happy to send it to anyone who'd like to see it...the Powersweep 3 blade is indeed a thing of beauty. Alas, the shanks of the 2 blade prop they make for the Jab 3300 relies on a different hub design and do not fit in the 3 blade-hub. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Ground Adj. Props
Fred=0Athat does look beautiful! Is the rear face of the section slightly c oncave? That would really convince me.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0AFrom: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>=0ATo: europ a-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, 13 March, 2010 16:04:42=0ASubject: E uropa-List: Question about Ground Adj. Props=0A=0AFWIW, Sensenich does offe r a 3 blade composite ground adjustable prop for the 9XX designated 3BOR5R6 8C, weight 10 lbs., min. diameter of 64".=0A=0AAlas, the shanks of the 2 bl ade prop they make for the Jab 3300 relies on a different hub design and do not fit in the 3 blade-hub.=0A=0AFred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk>
Subject: Europa Club Seminar
Date: Mar 14, 2010
The Europa Club has organised a two day seminar on: Operating, servicing, maintaining and handling your Europa. It will be held on the 24th and 25th April 2010. Places are limited so please book early! Please go to the club website at www.europaclub.org.uk for full details. Bets regards Brian Davies, The Europa Club membership secretary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Electric Flap TGW21 Outboard Flap Bracket Detail Wanted
Date: Mar 15, 2010
Gidday, Well I've been off list, out in the wilderness lost for a few years but I'm back building my Europa. I have sourced a quality Linear Actuator from a company in the US and most of the hardware for the mod, except I need a plan of the TGW21 Brackets. I have asked Europa if I can pay for a PDF detail of the component but it is against their policy. All I need is a detail, an outline, or a scanned copy of a plan view of one if someone might have one out there. Otherwise, I'm now the proud owner of a 914 engine to go in my Conventional Undercarriage Europa, and am just waiting on a FWF kit to be finalised. Wish me luck that I don't get thrown again. Getting on again is harder each time. Reg Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Flap TGW21 Outboard Flap Bracket Detail Wanted
=0A=0ATony=0Agreat to see you back on here, long time! I will try and get s ome details for you. =0AHave you spoken to Kingsley, he might be able to he lp? Keep in touch. =0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFro m: Tony Renshaw =0ATo: europa-list@matronic s.com=0ASent: Monday, 15 March, 2010 5:33:23=0ASubject: Europa-List: Electr ic Flap TGW21 Outboard Flap Bracket Detail Wanted=0A=0A--> Europa-List mess age posted by: Tony Renshaw =0A=0AGidday, =0AWell I've been off list, out in the wilderness lost for a few years but I'm back building my Europa. I have sourced a quality Linear Actuator from a company in the US and most of the hardware for the mod, except I need a p lan of the TGW21 Brackets. I have asked Europa if I can pay for a PDF detai l of the component but it is against their policy. All I need is a detail, an outline, or a scanned copy of a plan view of one if someone might have o ne out there. Otherwise, I'm now the proud owner of a 914 engine to go in my Conventional Undercarriage Europa, and am just waiting on a FWF kit to b e finalised. Wish me luck that I don't get thrown again. Getting on again i s harder each time. =0AReg=0ATony Renshaw=0ASydney Aussie=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Flap TGW21 Outboard Flap Bracket Detail Wanted
Date: Mar 14, 2010
On Mar 14, 2010, at 10:33 PM, Tony Renshaw wrote: > Well I've been off list, out in the wilderness lost for a few years > but I'm back building my Europa. I have sourced a quality Linear > Actuator from a company in the US and most of the hardware for the > mod, except I need a plan of the TGW21 Brackets. I have asked Europa > if I can pay for a PDF detail of the component but it is against > their policy. All I need is a detail, an outline, or a scanned copy > of a plan view of one if someone might have one out there. Welcome back Tony !! Somewhere I've seen a digital drawing of the outrigger bracket w/ rotations of various elements...I've just looked thru my likely sources and have come up emptyhanded...I'll keep looking... Fred A194 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2010
From: William Daniell <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Door hinges to fuselage
Dear all My door hinges require a spacer of 3mm - presumably - ply and - presumably - glassed in on the fuselage (bottom hinge) in order to fit properly...my question was is this normal and if so where in the manual was the instruction to do this? Will ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2010
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Will "Is this normal and if so where in the manual was the instruction to do this?" I think a lot of kits need spacers. It isn't in the manual for XS. You can have a look at my door build, I used some mixing sticks as a measuring gauge, then JB Welded in some G-10 spacers. One other thing not in mauual that worked out great for me is first thing making holes in fuse for shoot bolts, this way you can get precise registration during fitting (Thx. to Bud for that one). http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=29082 Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Torque Tube Fittings
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller(at)lolacars.com>
Date: Mar 16, 2010
Hi, I have some surplus torque tube fittings namely 1 x TP9, 2 x TP11, 2 x TP12, 2 x TP14C, 2 x TP14D and probably 2 x TP10. Does anyone want them as spares? I'd like something for them but I'm not looking for silly money. If you are interested, please let me know your torque tube diameter and I'll measure them and see if they would fit. Thanks, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290448#290448 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
Date: Mar 15, 2010
Will, It's been a while but as I remember I used an aluminum spacer between the bottom hinge and the fuselage. So it would set right even with the fuselage I taped the spaces to the bottom hinge around the edges only. The applied a small amount of redux mixed with a bit of flox to the area on the fuselage where the spacer would rest. Make sure you have release tape anywhere the goo might touch. The idea was to use the mixture as a way see that the door & hinges would be flush when closed. You would want to trial fit everything with the spacer taped to the hinge first. If the door is proud of the fuselage top then remove some of the spacer with a grinder then re fit. If your door is low when fitted then you can add some more redux flox mixture. I remember having to sand just a small amount of the door top to come out exactly to the fuselage top but at least you know the hinges fit perfectly even this way. Hope this helps, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush 220 hours and enjoying every flight I can get between rainy cold days. Would someone tell Al to get the global warming turned back on? On Mar 15, 2010, at 8:00 AM, William Daniell wrote: > Dear all > > My door hinges require a spacer of 3mm - presumably - ply and - > presumably - glassed in on the fuselage (bottom hinge) in order to > fit properly...my question was is this normal and if so where in the > manual was the instruction to do this? > > Will > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: DOTH?
Date: Mar 16, 2010
Anyone fancy a DOTH @ White Waltham today c12:30? (Voucher in Pilot) Roger Mills G-BVUV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2010
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: Autopilot Servo Location
Hi Folks, I'm still considering a panel refurb - out with the pneumatic system and in with an EFIS - I really like the Dynon Skyview. Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. Does anyone have any drawings/photos? Regards, Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, Kansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philip Levi <pjlevi(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Subject: Re: Autopilot Servo Location
Martin One of the best altitude hold (dual axis) autopilots is the Trio Pilot Pro. Excellent full details are on the Trio web site. I was in correspondence with Paul Mitchell, the UK agent for Trio last December and he was in touch with Andy Draper of the UK Light Aircraft Association which were in the process of giving it approval for the Europa. The relevant correspondence copied to me was: ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Draper Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 11:22 AM Subject: RE: PP into a Europa Hi Paul, Europa are on the verge of launching Mod 76 which covers the altitude hold aspect (awaiting flight test results) and the wing leveller part is covered by the recently introduced Mod 75. Mod 75 effectively replaces SM10507 which has been around for a while now. They've opted for in-house mods to cover the rest of the world. Mods 75 and 76 will be treated as Facory Options now, but both will require inspection checks and flight test autorised by LAA Engineering issued PFRC (as laid down in the mod leaflets). Andy From: Paul Mitchell [mailto:pm(at)tecnam.co.uk] Sent: 02 December 2009 10:59 Subject: PP into a Europa Andy, What is the currant position in fitting a PP into a Europa.Is it a standard mod yet. Any info gratefully received. Paul Note the reference to *in-house mods for the rest of the world*. You will find it is a very neat and light weight unit at modest cost compared to the competition. However, I do not speak from experience. I plan to purchase it probably later this year after it has been approved by the LAA. Philip Levi G-BWWB Monowheel Classic. E-mail: pjlevi(at)gmail.com On 17 March 2010 05:30, Martin Tuck wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > I'm still considering a panel refurb - out with the pneumatic system and in > with an EFIS - I really like the Dynon Skyview. > > Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos > installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. > > Does anyone have any drawings/photos? > > Regards, > Martin Tuck > N152MT > Wichita, Kansas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Autopilot Servo Location
Date: Mar 17, 2010
>Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos >installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. Are you a Europa Club Member? Ian Rickard has been putting the final touches to a standard Altitude Hold Mod. As you suggested, the pitch servo is mounted under the seat. I have one similarly mounted under the left hand seat, driven by my Trio Alt Hold. Regards, MP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk>
Subject: Autopilot Servo Location
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Hi Martin Ian Richard, the Mods rep on the Europa Club has done full drawings of both roll and pitch servo installations and has been trying to get them issued as standard factory mods. I am sure if you rejoined the Europa Club he would be delighted to send you some drawings :-) Regards Brian Davies The Europa Club membership sec. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Martin Tuck Sent: 17 March 2010 03:30 Subject: Europa-List: Autopilot Servo Location Hi Folks, I'm still considering a panel refurb - out with the pneumatic system and in with an EFIS - I really like the Dynon Skyview. Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. Does anyone have any drawings/photos? Regards, Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, Kansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Autopilot Servo Location
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Martin Have a look at Mod 75 (roll Autopilot) and Mod 76 (Altitude hold). These are now up on the Europa Web site. At the moment they do not cover the Dynon but the servos are about the same size. As I wrote them, if you have any further questions let me know. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
I have fitted 1/4=22 nylon pipe as return from motor to the main tank and as water drains. For general interest, would users please just flick this message back to me =3F JR Bob Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Europa UK parts supply
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Date: Mar 17, 2010
I am interested if anyone who recently purchased parts, specifically a FWF kit from Europa UK, has had any problems? Please reply off list. Reg Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Ivan's email
On 03/03/2009 10:26 AM, Brian Davies wrote: > His e mail address is available in the members only area of the Europa Club > website. Sorry I cant broadcast it- UK Data Protection Laws! > > If you cant find it, e mail me offline. Sorry to reply on an old topic, but I'm looking for Ivan Shaw's email address as well. Can anyone mail it to me? Best regards, Frans Veldman Oh, and BTW, I changed my email address, found this one more appropriate. ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Mitchell" <paul.mitchell2(at)homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Autopilot Servo Location
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Jerry, >From the Europa matronics web site. ----- Original Message ----- From: Philip Levi To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:18 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot Servo Location Martin One of the best altitude hold (dual axis) autopilots is the Trio Pilot Pro. Excellent full details are on the Trio web site. I was in correspondence with Paul Mitchell, the UK agent for Trio last December and he was in touch with Andy Draper of the UK Light Aircraft Association which were in the process of giving it approval for the Europa. The relevant correspondence copied to me was: ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Draper To: Paul Mitchell Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 11:22 AM Subject: RE: PP into a Europa Hi Paul, Europa are on the verge of launching Mod 76 which covers the altitude hold aspect (awaiting flight test results) and the wing leveller part is covered by the recently introduced Mod 75. Mod 75 effectively replaces SM10507 which has been around for a while now. They've opted for in-house mods to cover the rest of the world. Mods 75 and 76 will be treated as Facory Options now, but both will require inspection checks and flight test autorised by LAA Engineering issued PFRC (as laid down in the mod leaflets). Andy From: Paul Mitchell [mailto:pm(at)tecnam.co.uk] Sent: 02 December 2009 10:59 To: Andy Draper Subject: PP into a Europa Andy, What is the currant position in fitting a PP into a Europa.Is it a standard mod yet. Any info gratefully received. Paul Note the reference to in-house mods for the rest of the world. You will find it is a very neat and light weight unit at modest cost compared to the competition. However, I do not speak from experience. I plan to purchase it probably later this year after it has been approved by the LAA. Philip Levi G-BWWB Monowheel Classic. E-mail: pjlevi(at)gmail.com On 17 March 2010 05:30, Martin Tuck wrote: Hi Folks, I'm still considering a panel refurb - out with the pneumatic system and in with an EFIS - I really like the Dynon Skyview. Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. Does anyone have any drawings/photos? Regards, Martin Tuck : opa-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<=== ============ = --> h a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Ivan's email
Frans=0AIvan is away on a cruise and won't be back until mid April, current ly in Singapore=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF rom: Frans Veldman =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010 10:43:57=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Iva atepilots.nl>=0A=0AOn 03/03/2009 10:26 AM, Brian Davies wrote:=0A=0A> His e mail address is available in the members only area of the Europa Club=0A> website. Sorry I cant broadcast it- UK Data Protection Laws! =0A> =0A> If you cant find it, e mail me offline.=0A=0ASorry to reply on an old topic, b ut I'm looking for Ivan Shaw's email=0Aaddress as well. Can anyone mail it to me?=0A=0ABest regards,=0AFrans Veldman=0A=0AOh, and BTW, I changed my em ======== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ivan's email
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: "Marcel Zwakenberg" <mz(at)cariama.nl>
Hoi Frans, Ik begrijp dat je er met Andy niet uitkomt? :) Aan Ivan's email-adres kan ik je niet helpen, helaas... Marcel PS First flight niet de komende week doen he, we zitten dan in Curacao... ;-) -----Original Message----- From: Frans Veldman [mailto:frans(at)privatepilots.nl] Sent: woensdag 17 maart 2010 11:44 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ivan's email On 03/03/2009 10:26 AM, Brian Davies wrote: > His e mail address is available in the members only area of the Europa Club > website. Sorry I cant broadcast it- UK Data Protection Laws! > > If you cant find it, e mail me offline. Sorry to reply on an old topic, but I'm looking for Ivan Shaw's email address as well. Can anyone mail it to me? Best regards, Frans Veldman Oh, and BTW, I changed my email address, found this one more appropriate. ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Challis <kevinmarie(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa UK parts supply
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Tony I ordered throttle cables 2 months still waiting Kevin On 17 Mar 2010, at 10:42, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > > > I am interested if anyone who recently purchased parts, specifically > a FWF kit from Europa UK, has had any problems? Please reply off list. > Reg > Tony Renshaw > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: William Daniell <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
Thanks So shoot bolts first and then hinges? Will rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Will > "Is this normal and if so where in the manual was the instruction to > do this?" > I think a lot of kits need spacers. It isn't in the manual for XS. You > can have a look at my door build, I used some mixing sticks as a > measuring gauge, then JB Welded in some G-10 spacers. One other thing > not in mauual that worked out great for me is first thing making holes > in fuse for shoot bolts, this way you can get precise registration > during fitting (Thx. to Bud for that one). > http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=29082 > Ron Parigoris > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: William Daniell <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
thanks jeff JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > Will, > It's been a while but as I remember I used an aluminum spacer between > the bottom hinge and the fuselage. So it would set right even with the > fuselage I taped the spaces to the bottom hinge around the edges only. > The applied a small amount of redux mixed with a bit of flox to the > area on the fuselage where the spacer would rest. Make sure you have > release tape anywhere the goo might touch. The idea was to use the > mixture as a way see that the door & hinges would be flush when > closed. You would want to trial fit everything with the spacer taped > to the hinge first. If the door is proud of the fuselage top then > remove some of the spacer with a grinder then re fit. If your door is > low when fitted then you can add some more redux flox mixture. I > remember having to sand just a small amount of the door top to come > out exactly to the fuselage top but at least you know the hinges fit > perfectly even this way. > Hope this helps, > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush 220 hours and enjoying every flight I can > get between rainy cold days. Would someone tell Al to get the global > warming turned back on? > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Ivan's email
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Hi! Frans. Ivan Shaw is away cruising into early April I'm pretty sure he surfs the Europa Net . But I'll "patch" your message on to him anyway. BTW do we all change your e-mail address? Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman Sent: 17 March 2010 10:44 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ivan's email On 03/03/2009 10:26 AM, Brian Davies wrote: > His e mail address is available in the members only area of the Europa Club > website. Sorry I cant broadcast it- UK Data Protection Laws! > > If you cant find it, e mail me offline. Sorry to reply on an old topic, but I'm looking for Ivan Shaw's email address as well. Can anyone mail it to me? Best regards, Frans Veldman Oh, and BTW, I changed my email address, found this one more appropriate. ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: fuel fires vs. oil fires?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
""This combination of hardware provides for physical security of the firewall penetration and a good deal of protection for the grommet against fuel-fed fire. The final touch is addition of the fire-putty fillet around the wire and to cover about half the surface area of the grommet on the engine side. This adds relative gas-tightness for CO and protection of the exposed insulation/grommet from fire."" Bob , I would be delighted to read your appreciation of the relative danger of fuel-fed vs. oil-fed engine fires. While I understand the danger of inflamed fuel, I anticipate cutting off the fuel delivery. I know it cuts the engine but perhaps a forced landing is better than crispy critters. Oil on the other hand is difficult to stop, unless you stop the engine, which is slow and leads to the same fate basically. It also may be modified by later engine re-start. What have I missed? What say you? Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Hi Bob, Did you check the compatibility of the nylon formulation with gasoline and or alcohols? Other than that, the nylon requires compression fittings which are not what was supplied with the kit. Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290619#290619 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Ivan's email
On 03/17/2010 02:16 PM, Robert C Harrison wrote: > Ivan Shaw is away cruising into early April I'm pretty sure he surfs the > Europa Net . But I'll "patch" your message on to him anyway. I have sent him an email already, thanks! > BTW do we all change your e-mail address? Well, I'll listen in on both email addresses, but I intent to use the new privatepilots address for flying related conversations, and use the other one for my Dutch business. ;-) I don't really care which one you use, but the privatepilots address may be easier to remember than the Dutch address which most likely has no comprehensible meaning for you. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "PETER HARROD" <peterandbettyharrod(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
----- Original Message ----- From: JR Gowing To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:07 PM Subject: Europa-List: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? I have fitted 1/4" nylon pipe as return from motor to the main tank and as water drains. For general interest, would users please just flick this message back to me? JR Bob Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- We are a community of 6 million users fightine Professional version does not have this message. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Is there not a risk of static-induced pinholes with fuel in nylon? Or is that Teflon? Or..... Cheers, Pete A239 On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 11:52 AM, PETER HARROD < peterandbettyharrod(at)btopenworld.com> wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* JR Gowing > *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:07 PM > *Subject:* Europa-List: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? > > I have fitted 1/4" nylon pipe as return from motor to the main tank and as > water drains. > > For general interest, would users please just flick this message back to > me? > > JR Bob Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz > > > ------------------------------ > . > We are a community of 6 million users fightine Professional version does > not have this message. > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Will "So shoot bolts first and then hinges?" I didn't install shoot bolt guides, just made holes in fuse so shoot bolts can lock door in place. Yes shoot bolt holes before hinges allows easy registritration whenfitting of door the gazillion times you need to take on and off. BTW using tape as a pattern allows you to trim door very close first shot. Pics on link I sent you. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Hi! Bob Did you check it's fire resistance time ? I can see melting blobs of nylon .............in the engine compartment. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rampil Sent: 17 March 2010 14:26 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? Hi Bob, Did you check the compatibility of the nylon formulation with gasoline and or alcohols? Other than that, the nylon requires compression fittings which are not what was supplied with the kit. Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290619#290619 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Date: Mar 17, 2010
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Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Triboelectric pinholes (static discharges) happen in thin teflon, which is why the aerospace grade of Aeroquip 666 (the premiere fuel hose IMHO) has an embedded carbon strip through the length of the teflon. I have not heard of triboelectric problems with nylon, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290664#290664 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Ira Did not do any checking - just accepted a friend builder's suggestion. Very easy to fit and very easy to take out again. Fittings have a lock ring - push pipe in and it grabs, push on the ring and you can withdraw it. JR ----- Original Message ----- From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:26 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? > > Hi Bob, > > Did you check the compatibility of the nylon formulation with gasoline > and or alcohols? > > Other than that, the nylon requires compression fittings which are not > what > was supplied with the kit. > > Ira > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290619#290619 > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:33:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Ira...How thin is "thin teflon"? Is automotive EFI R9 hose lined w/ "thin" teflon, or something thicker to deal w/ the issue you describe? If the R9 hose w/ the blue teflon liner IS subject to triboelectric pinholes, why doesn't it concern the auto manufacturers? Fred On Mar 17, 2010, at 1:30 PM, rampil wrote: > > Triboelectric pinholes (static discharges) happen in thin teflon, > which is why the aerospace grade of Aeroquip 666 (the premiere > fuel hose IMHO) has an embedded carbon strip through the length > of the teflon. > > I have not heard of triboelectric problems with nylon, doesn't mean > it doesn't exist. > > Ira > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290664#290664 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Fred "How thin is "thin teflon"?Is automotive EFI R9 hose lined w/ "thin" teflon, or something thicker to deal w/ the issue you describe? If the R9 hose w/ the blue teflon liner IS subject to triboelectric pinholes, why doesn't it concern the auto manufacturers?" Here is a bit more info: http://www.sacskyranch.com/statichose.htm Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 17, 2010
quote from http://www.sacskyranch.com/statichose.htm : > Static charge generation occurs as liquids flow through hoses and is > dependent upon the potential of the hose surface to accept or donate > electrons, the speed at which the liquid is moving and the > conductivity of the hose liner. Electrostatic discharge in the form > of an electric spark occurs from the hose inner tube to the steel > braid thereby creating a pin hole leak. > That would seem to indicate that the potential for triboelectric pinholes is a consequence of the steel braid surface of the hose. I have used automotive R9 EFI hose (w/ the blue teflon liner)...(at $6/7 dollars/foot, it's not exactly "cheap")...I have planned on using steel braid on only those hoses which are forward of the firewall...if I carry out that plan, it sounds like all will be well if I use the Mil Spec. MIL-H-25579E hose forward of the firewall or where ever steel braid is used. I would be grateful for any comments anyone? Fred A194 On Mar 17, 2010, at 4:36 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Fred > "How thin is "thin teflon"? Is automotive EFI R9 hose lined w/ > "thin" teflon, or something thicker to deal w/ the issue you > describe? If the R9 hose w/ the blue teflon liner IS subject to > triboelectric pinholes, why doesn't it concern the auto > manufacturers?" > Here is a bit more info: > http://www.sacskyranch.com/statichose.htm > Ron Parigoris > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: Re: Europa Servos
Thanks for all the replies - most helpful. I just need to know the prices for the Mods now. I see I would need a new pitch pivot tube. Couldn't just find a local welder to put on the plates? Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, Kansas Richard Wheelwright wrote: > Hi, > Have a look at the Europa web site. Under Mods. The Auto Pilot is on > there, with parts and instructions. > > > ============================================ > > Thank You > Richard Wheelwright > > ============================================ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: Don Heath <donaldheath(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
JR Gowing wrote: > I have fitted 1/4" nylon pipe as return from motor to the main tank > and as water drains. > > For general interest, would users please just flick this message back > to me? > > JR Bob Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>. > We are a community of 6 million users fightine Professional version > does not have this message. > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Europa Servos
Date: Mar 18, 2010
And then, if you did that years ago, you have to put it in there! That is too much for me....... JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin Tuck" <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> Forum" Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 12:44 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa Servos > > Thanks for all the replies - most helpful. > > I just need to know the prices for the Mods now. I see I would need a > new pitch pivot tube. Couldn't just find a local welder to put on the > plates? > > Martin Tuck > N152MT > Wichita, Kansas > > Richard Wheelwright wrote: >> Hi, >> Have a look at the Europa web site. Under Mods. The Auto Pilot is on >> there, with parts and instructions. >> >> >> ============================================ >> >> Thank You >> Richard Wheelwright >> >> ============================================ >> >> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 19:33:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become?
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Pete I just accepted a fellow builder's suggestion that it was becoming popular. Easy to use - etc JR ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Zutrauen To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 3:08 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? Is there not a risk of static-induced pinholes with fuel in nylon? Or is that Teflon? Or..... Cheers, Pete A239 On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 11:52 AM, PETER HARROD wrote: ----- Original Message ----- From: JR Gowing To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:07 PM Subject: Europa-List: Nylon Fuel Piping - how popular has it become? I have fitted 1/4" nylon pipe as return from motor to the main tank and as water drains. For general interest, would users please just flick this message back to me? JR Bob Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - We are a community of 6 million users fightine Professional version does not have this message. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 03/17/10 07:33:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa Servos
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Martin Yes, as Mike says, you could put the horns on your existing CS10. The details for doing this are shown on the attached drawing. My understanding is that all future CS10s will have the horns as standard. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Martin Tuck Sent: 18 March 2010 01:45 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa Servos Thanks for all the replies - most helpful. I just need to know the prices for the Mods now. I see I would need a new pitch pivot tube. Couldn't just find a local welder to put on the plates? Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, Kansas Richard Wheelwright wrote: > Hi, > Have a look at the Europa web site. Under Mods. The Auto Pilot is on > there, with parts and instructions. > > > ============================================ > > Thank You > Richard Wheelwright > > ============================================ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2010
From: klaus dietrich <klaus.dietrich(at)oracle.com>
Subject: AUtopilot
Martin, I have installed the truetrack AP two years ago with two servos and it works perfectly! You can see pictures of the installation here: http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaAP?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_KjL_1rPbcgwE&feat=directlink If you need further info please call me! All the best, Klaus -- Oracle <http://www.oracle.com> Klaus Dietrich Phone: +43 1 33 777 825 | | Oracle Financing, EMEA ORACLE Austria | IZD Tower, Wagramer Strasse 17-19 | 1223 Vienna Green Oracle <http://www.oracle.com/commitment> Oracle is committed to developing practices and products that help protect the environment ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Mitchell" <paul.mitchell2(at)homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Autopilot Servo Location
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Gents, Now that mod 75 and 76 are LAA/factory approved, If I can be of any assistance in getting the Trio kit into your aircraft, please contact me off line. Paul Mitchell Trio UK agent ----- Original Message ----- From: Philip Levi To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:18 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot Servo Location Martin One of the best altitude hold (dual axis) autopilots is the Trio Pilot Pro. Excellent full details are on the Trio web site. I was in correspondence with Paul Mitchell, the UK agent for Trio last December and he was in touch with Andy Draper of the UK Light Aircraft Association which were in the process of giving it approval for the Europa. The relevant correspondence copied to me was: ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Draper To: Paul Mitchell Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 11:22 AM Subject: RE: PP into a Europa Hi Paul, Europa are on the verge of launching Mod 76 which covers the altitude hold aspect (awaiting flight test results) and the wing leveller part is covered by the recently introduced Mod 75. Mod 75 effectively replaces SM10507 which has been around for a while now. They've opted for in-house mods to cover the rest of the world. Mods 75 and 76 will be treated as Facory Options now, but both will require inspection checks and flight test autorised by LAA Engineering issued PFRC (as laid down in the mod leaflets). Andy From: Paul Mitchell [mailto:pm(at)tecnam.co.uk] Sent: 02 December 2009 10:59 To: Andy Draper Subject: PP into a Europa Andy, What is the currant position in fitting a PP into a Europa.Is it a standard mod yet. Any info gratefully received. Paul Note the reference to in-house mods for the rest of the world. You will find it is a very neat and light weight unit at modest cost compared to the competition. However, I do not speak from experience. I plan to purchase it probably later this year after it has been approved by the LAA. Philip Levi G-BWWB Monowheel Classic. E-mail: pjlevi(at)gmail.com On 17 March 2010 05:30, Martin Tuck wrote: Hi Folks, I'm still considering a panel refurb - out with the pneumatic system and in with an EFIS - I really like the Dynon Skyview. Anyone installed autopilot servos? I think I've seen some roll servos installed under the seat but I've not seen pitch servo installation. Does anyone have any drawings/photos? Regards, Martin Tuck : opa-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<=== ============ = --> h a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: AUtopilot
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Klaus I share your enthusiasm with the True Track folks. I've installed a couple ADI pilots and they work very well plus you have a helper in flight with attitude if the boob tube fails. Bud Yerly ----- Original Message ----- From: klaus dietrich<mailto:klaus.dietrich(at)oracle.com> To: MJKTuck(at)cs.com Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 6:19 AM Subject: Europa-List: AUtopilot Martin, I have installed the truetrack AP two years ago with two servos and it works perfectly! You can see pictures of the installation here: http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaAP?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_KjL_1rPb cgwE&feat=directlink<http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaAP?auth key=Gv1sRgCN_KjL_1rPbcgwE&feat=directlink> If you need further info please call me! All the best, Klaus -- <http://www.oracle.com/> Klaus Dietrich Phone: +43 1 33 777 825 | | Oracle Financing, EMEA ORACLE Austria | IZD Tower, Wagramer Strasse 17-19 | 1223 Vienna <http://www.oracle.com/commitment> Oracle is committed to developing practices and products that help protect the environment ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa UK parts supply
From: "bmoorhouse" <barrymoorhouse(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Mar 18, 2010
tonyrenshaw268(at)optusne wrote: > I am interested if anyone who recently purchased parts, specifically a FWF kit from Europa UK, has had any problems? Please reply off list. > Reg > Tony Renshaw I replied to the first time this question was asked of this saying that I had problems with parts ordered from Europa. However in the last couple of weeks I have had to order some bits and pieces (exhaust tail pipe and other odds and sods) service was very good with parts arriving the next day. Fiona at Europa was very helpful and even sent me photos of the two types of exhaust tail pipe as she was not quite sure which was correct for my installation. So a poor service earlier in the year which (to me at least) has improved dramatically. I do know that they are completely revamping their spares service and changing some suppliers so there may be issues for some parts until this is all resolved, but for me I couldn't have asked for better for my last two orders. -------- _______________ Barry Moorhouse G-JHYS Trigear XS Rotax 914 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290842#290842 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2010
From: Alain CHABERT <alainchabert(at)wanadoo.fr>
Subject: AUtopilot
Hi, I installed mine (TrioAvionics) in February 2008 and it works without problem since 120 h. I just have to refine the setting of altitude, but it's a detail. The servo is installed on the floor behind the baggage bulkhead, and a tube of 1 "(same as the aileron push rod) connects the servo to a piece on TP9 which reduces the effort of the servo. Photos available for those who wish. A.Chabert ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller(at)lolacars.com>
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Hi, I'm not normally one to do this but I'm quite incensed and so need to warn other builders about the current Europa policy. I've had cause to order a new tailplane Torque Tube from the factory. This is the new design to get around the tailplane play issues. On receipt I was rather alarmed by the weight penalty (and increase of 52%) and on reflection I would rather now source an original torque tube and fit the clamps (as I originally intended to do). I asked if I could return the item and have a refund from the factory. I can but there is a 10% handling fee involved for this - 50 in my case. Apparently my returned item would need dimensionally checking prior to sending out again. Fair enough point maybe but these costs can be waived if you risk losing future custom over it. On the basis that I don't want to pay Mr Stanbridge another penny ever again, I'm going to keep the tube and accept the weight penalty. Other builders may want to be aware that this is the current policy. David, this is a free public forum and I'm sure you will want to respond to this and please do. Looking through the Europa list of recent issues and grumblings though I really think you should be looking after your customers more. "Don't bite the hand that feeds you" is always an interesting motto. Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290918#290918 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Subject: Re: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
Standard Practice! Try RS Components and others where it is 25%! Would you want that returned Torque Tube as a purchase without it being checked? In the grand scheme of things the weight of that improved unit is a small percentage in the total weight of a Europa build. If you're fitting the clamps with the older style then what's the difference.... Who'd be a Supplier with a customer base of some that never seem happy! I'm glad that I seen complimentary comments about Europa too. Based on past events it's good we still have a Europa Company. Gerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller(at)lolacars.com>
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Gerry, The item arrived with half the torque tube hanging outside the box. You could argue that I need to charge Europa to get it checked to see if it suffered damage in the post with their courier. Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290927#290927 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2010
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr>
Subject: wrape drive propeller for sale
Hi all,=0AI have a three blade ground ajustable wrap drive propeller for sa le. It flew 410 h on my Europa 80 hp-before I-buy an in flight ajustabl e prop.=0AIf interested: jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr=0A=0AJP Neel=0AEuropa F- PSLH=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Correct! 10 % is almost nothing! I have to say I cannot understand how it is possible they accept things back w ANY per cent! To have a right to return items is not a matter of course for customer without special purchase agreement. As a current owner of Europa I am very happy there is a vital company behind. Without Europa /Swift Aircraf it could be very hard to solve some problems or get certain spares. Also the retail prices of our planes are much higher because there is a living factory which can support a new owner. What would be a builder status without a company (and without some stages)? Raimo Toivio Finland OH-XRT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Holland" <gholland@content-stream.co.uk> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:19 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning. > > Standard Practice! Try RS Components and others where it is 25%! > Would you want that returned Torque Tube as a purchase without it being > checked? > In the grand scheme of things the weight of that improved unit is a small > percentage in the total weight of a Europa build. If you're fitting the > clamps with the older style then what's the difference.... > Who'd be a Supplier with a customer base of some that never seem happy! > I'm glad that I seen complimentary comments about Europa too. > Based on past events it's good we still have a Europa Company. > Gerry > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Subject: Re: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
That's a fair point. Maybe a little chat is required to work out way forward. Based on the amount of effort that has gone into the Torque Tube problems I think you'd be justified. The Carrier may be to blame and a claim justified too Gerry. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Phil is of course entitled to his opinion, but I do not share the opinion he just expressed about the Europa factory. I fully agree with Gerry and Raimo. I take this opportunity also to mention that I regret the not so infrequent messages on this forum regarding where to purchase spare parts cheaper than from Europa. I am counting my money just as everyone else, but I take into account the value of having a soundly operating Europa factory and have therefore always bought spares from them. It is not that many years ago that Europa failed and we all were quite concerned about the future also for our own airplanes - and their resale value. I say: Support Europa factory whenever you can! Svein LN-SKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SV: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller(at)lolacars.com>
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Hi Svein, Thanks for your reply. Up until midday today I would have agreed with every word you said. In the last 6 months I have put several thousand pounds (>5k) worth of business through Europa's books. As what I would consider to be 'a good customer' I'm disappointed in being asked for this charge. So, I'm now a convert. David has made his decision and I will now source any other parts I need elsewhere. Just thought I should add that info so the forum knows. Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290954#290954 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: AUtopilot - Question re- Connection to Tailplane Push
Rod
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Klaus I see that your connection to the tailplane pushrod uses two hose clamps to hold the necessary bracket to the pushrod. - Please advise me - Is this connection just a friction grip onto the pushrod or is there some hidden extra to provide a non-slip connection. JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz ----- Original Message ----- From: klaus dietrich To: MJKTuck(at)cs.com Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:19 PM Subject: Europa-List: AUtopilot Martin, I have installed the truetrack AP two years ago with two servos and it wo rks perfectly! You can see pictures of the installation here: http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaAP=3Fauthkey=Gv1sRgCN=5FKjL=5F1rPbcg wE&feat=directlink If you need further info please call me! All the best, Klaus -- Klaus Dietrich Phone: +43 1 33 777 825 | | Oracle Financing, EMEA ORACLE Austria | IZD Tower, Wagramer Strasse 17-19 | 1223 Vienna Oracle is committed to developing practices and products that help prote ct the environment --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 19:33:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re:Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Given the state of the global economy, the plethora of new designs, and the extreme competitiveness in the LSA and kitplane markets, I want to support the new Europa company in every way I can. I am very grateful that Dave Stanbridge, Roger, and John Wheeler were able to come to terms in a manner which allowed the company to continue operations and hopefully prosper in the future. The initiatives taken are just now beginning to bear fruit, and I certainly support reasonable good business practices. I recognise that sourcing parts and maintaining inventories is a constant challenge. I'm reminded of that old saw about how to make a small fortune in general aviation...the answer of course being that you start with a large fortune...challenging indeed! I save my wrath against the corporate world to slather on Wall Streeters, Ponzi Schemers, and the Gnomes of Zurich. Fred A194 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephan Cassel" <stephan(at)scassel.se>
Subject: Re: Europa UK parts supply
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Barry and all,I aggree!Last month I ordered some spare parts to my mono.Two days later parts were delivered, by DHL, at my office in Norway.Fiona, at Europa, is a very serviced minded person.RegardsStephanLN-STE MONO 210+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re:Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
I too think we need to help Europa factory succeed. Those of you who rememb er my tail wheel/ rudder drive mod which reverts to push rod drive for the rudder will be pleased to note that the factory are now supplying the mod k it. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the loads on the rudder hin ges and flanges.=0Aregards =0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________ ________=0AFrom: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matr onics.com=0ASent: Saturday, 20 March, 2010 3:37:42=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re:Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.=0A=0A--> Europa-List messa ge posted by: Fred Klein =0A=0AGiven the state of t he global economy, the plethora of new designs, and the extreme competitive ness in the LSA and kitplane markets, I want to support the new Europa comp any in every way I can. I am very grateful that Dave Stanbridge, Roger, and John Wheeler were able to come to terms in a manner which allowed the comp any to continue operations and hopefully prosper in the future. The initiat ives taken are just now beginning to bear fruit, and I certainly support re asonable good business practices. I recognise that sourcing parts and maint aining inventories is a constant challenge.=0A=0AI'm reminded of that old saw about how to make a small fortune in general aviation...the answer of c ourse being that you start with a large fortune...challenging indeed!=0A=0A I save my wrath against the corporate world to slather on Wall Streeters, P ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning.
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Europaphiles, I'll have to add my tuppence in support of Europa. Many businesses have some sort of restocking fee associated with the return of expensive and specialized products. I can sympathize with FlyingPhil. I lost over =A310K in promised goods back when Europa went bust. It all had to be purchased again from the vendors, most of whom also lost big. To say I was p-o'd would be an understatement. The treatment received by the receiver company was crap to say the least. That's in the past now. The Stanbridge group has worked very hard to restore Europa and make a going concern out of it. New products, new development and, considering the business climate these days, good support have been provided. Cut them some slack, as we say over here, and continue to support them so they may continue to support us. As for Graham's tail drive mod, I have it. It installs easily and it certainly does reduce the loads on the both the rudder hinges and the tailwheel. I would recommend it. Just keep the cables to the tailwheel tight! Check six, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 20, 2010, at 6:25, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > I too think we need to help Europa factory succeed. Those of you who remember my tail wheel/ rudder drive mod which reverts to push rod drive for the rudder will be pleased to note that the factory are now supplying the mod kit. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the loads on the rudder hinges and flanges. > regards > Graham > > From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, 20 March, 2010 3:37:42 > Subject: Europa-List: Re:Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning. > > > Given the state of the global economy, the plethora of new designs, and the extreme competitiveness in the LSA and kitplane markets, I want to support the new Europa company in every way I can. I am very grateful that Dave Stanbridge, Roger, and John Wheeler were able to come to terms in a manner which allowed the company to continue operations and hopefully prosper in the future. The initiatives taken are just now beginning to bear fruit, and I certainly support reasonable good business practices. I recognise that sourcing parts and maintaining inventories is a constant challenge. > > I'm reminded of that old saw about how to make a small fortune in general aviation...the answer of course being that you start with a large fortune...challenging indeed! > > I save my wrath against the corporate world to slather on Wall Streeters, Ponzi Schemers, and ... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Rudden push rod
On 03/20/2010 12:25 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > I too think we need to help Europa factory succeed. Those of you who > remember my tail wheel/ rudder drive mod which reverts to push rod drive > for the rudder will be pleased to note that the factory are now > supplying the mod kit. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the > loads on the rudder hinges and flanges. I remember having seen a Europa classic tri gear with a rudder push rod rather than the cable setup. I wondered whether this was a classic feature, and why it was abandoned, because my kit came with the (ugly) cable setup. Was this part of your tailwheel mod? Although my Europa is finished, I would still like to see the details (and maybe it is possible to convert). That starboard external cable and horn don't really belong on such a sleek aircraft. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder push rod
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Frans, It's not impossible to do the Singleton Rudder Push Rod Mod in your completed aircraft, but it sure would be uncomfortable doing those parts of the installation on the bulkhead way back in the tail cone. You can go to my build gallery (URL below), album Year #3 Q1 2004, Page 2 to see what all is involved in the Mod. Check six, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 20, 2010, at 10:24, Frans Veldman wrote: > > On 03/20/2010 12:25 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: >> I too think we need to help Europa factory succeed. Those of you who >> remember my tail wheel/ rudder drive mod which reverts to push rod drive >> for the rudder will be pleased to note that the factory are now >> supplying the mod kit. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the >> loads on the rudder hinges and flanges. > > I remember having seen a Europa classic tri gear with a rudder push rod > rather than the cable setup. I wondered whether this was a classic > feature, and why it was abandoned, because my kit came with the (ugly) > cable setup. > Was this part of your tailwheel mod? > Although my Europa is finished, I would still like to see the details > (and maybe it is possible to convert). That starboard external cable and > horn don't really belong on such a sleek aircraft. > > Frans > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: david_charlesworth(at)talk21.com
Subject: Re: wrape drive propeller for sale
Hi, - How much are you looking for? --- On Fri, 19/3/10, NEEL Jean Philippe wrote: From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr> Subject: Europa-List: wrape drive propeller for sale Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 16:56 Hi all, I have a three blade ground ajustable wrap drive propeller for sale. It fle w 410 h on my Europa 80 hp-before I-buy an in flight ajustable prop. If interested: jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr - JP Neel Europa F-PSLH - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: Rudden push rod
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Hi Frans The rudder pushrod was part of the early kits with the original tailwheel, which had a fitting for the tailwheel bolted on the front face of the rear bulkhead. If you really fancy it I should think you may find someone with an old tailwheel to sell, though it is now a long time since they were superseded. It would be a real pig of a job as you would be working in the back of the fuselage and would need access to the rear face of the rear bulkhead. Also the fitting is quite heavy. Regards Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman Sent: 20 March 2010 15:24 Subject: Europa-List: Rudden push rod On 03/20/2010 12:25 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > I too think we need to help Europa factory succeed. Those of you who > remember my tail wheel/ rudder drive mod which reverts to push rod drive > for the rudder will be pleased to note that the factory are now > supplying the mod kit. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the > loads on the rudder hinges and flanges. I remember having seen a Europa classic tri gear with a rudder push rod rather than the cable setup. I wondered whether this was a classic feature, and why it was abandoned, because my kit came with the (ugly) cable setup. Was this part of your tailwheel mod? Although my Europa is finished, I would still like to see the details (and maybe it is possible to convert). That starboard external cable and horn don't really belong on such a sleek aircraft. Frans -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by Houxou, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Stanbridge <david.stanbridge(at)swiftaircraft.co.uk>
Date: Mar 20, 2010
Subject: Europa parts supply - 'Handling fee' warning
To all, I would just like to take this opportunity to thank you for the support for Europa. Just to keep you abreast of some of the changes: 1. By the end of this financial year (April 5th) we will be operating a new stock control / parts system. As well as enabling us to auto order stock (so that we never run low) and deliver faster, on a practical level it will for instance enable us to provide photos of all of the items to ensure that going forward we can provide the parts right first time. 2. The production facilities at Kirkbymoorside are close to completion in terms of a revamp that will enable us to obtain EASA Production Organisation Approval (POA) so that we can start manufacturing certified aircraft. As they stand now you can almost eat your dinner off the floor of both the machine and composite manufacturing shop. 3. The POA will be complemented by an EASA Design Organisation Approval so that we can start "officially" designing certified aircraft. Obviously this will also lead to better all round technical support for the Europa aircraft. Along the way there are bound to be some frustrations and we are not here to bite the hand off anyone. We just want to ensure that Europa is a going concern for many years to come and to offer support and further enhancements for the existing and the future Europa fleet. Thank you, Dave Stanbridge ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2010
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr>
Subject: wrape drive propeller for sale
Bonjour=0AThe price is 380=82=AC plus shipping cost=0ABonne journ=C3=A9e =0AJP=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0ADe : "david_charleswort h(at)talk21.com" =0A=C3 : europa-list@matron ics.com=0AEnvoy=C3=A9 le : Sam 20 mars 2010, 19 h 11 min 50 s=0AObjet=C2- : Re: Europa-List: wrape drive propeller for sale=0A=0A=0AHi,=0A=0AHow much are you looking for?=0A=0A--- On Fri, 19/3/10, NEEL Jean Philippe =0A>Subject: Europa-List: wrape drive propeller for sale=0A>To : europa-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 16:56=0A>=0A> =0A>Hi all,=0A>I have a three blade ground ajustable wrap drive propeller f or sale. It flew 410 h on my Europa 80 hp=C2-before I=C2-buy an in flig ht ajustable prop.=0A>If interested: jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr=0A>=0A>JP Ne =========================0A ====0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: The best thing to do with your Jamar Master Cylinders
Date: Mar 21, 2010
To those that have Jamar finger brake master cylinders, you might be interested in the way I have applied them in my a/c. http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=78877 Reg Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Sun&Fun
Date: Mar 21, 2010
I'm making plans to fly N211KA to Florida from California for S&F. Anybody else going? Kevin XS mono 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2010
From: William Daniell <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
thanks ron rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > Hi Will > "So shoot bolts first and then hinges?" > I didn't install shoot bolt guides, just made holes in fuse so shoot > bolts can lock door in place. Yes shoot bolt holes before hinges > allows easy registritration when fitting of door the gazillion times > you need to take on and off. BTW using tape as a pattern allows you to > trim door very close first shot. Pics on link I sent you. > Ron Parigoris > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Sun&Fun
Wife and I are going. Leaving BTR about the 11th, weather dependent. You're welcome to drop in, if you like. You'll likely be flying right over us... Jeff - Baby Blue 500 hours On 3/21/2010 6:04 PM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote: > I'm making plans to fly N211KA to Florida from California for S&F. > Anybody else going? > Kevin > XS mono 914 > > * > > > * > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
Will- I think most of us required shims under the hinges to set the door even wit h the fuselage top.=C2- I find it easiest to use BID in the hinge rebate to get the spacing right.=C2- By doing so, you get some additional "bang for your buck" in that the BID adds reinforcement to the hinge bed, as well as being able to closely control the thickness of the shim by the number o f layers of BID applied.=C2- I followed the same practice with my rudder hinges.=C2- As far as the shot bolts, I found the procedure in the manual worked fine.=C2- I installed the hinges first, then the bolts=C2-in th e doors, then put a little paint on the end of the shot bolt, held the door closed , closed the latch to mark the door rebates on the fuselage, then =C2-drilled and filed the fuselage until the bushings were slightly free floating in the hole when the door was closed with the bolt inserted.=C2- I then heavily greased the shot bolts, closed the door and REDUXed the bus hings.=C2- It worked just fine.=C2- Getting the hinge rebates=C2-and the hinge tangs fit correctly was a real nuisance.=C2- I must have had th e doors on and off 50 times.=C2- Jim Puglise A-283=C2- =C2-=C2- =C2- ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:00:31 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Europa-List: Door hinges to fuselage Dear all My=C2- door hinges require a spacer of 3mm - presumably -=C2- ply and - =C2- presumably - glassed in on the fuselage (bottom hinge) in order to f it properly...my question was is this normal and if so where in the manual was the instruction to do this? Will == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun&Fun
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 22, 2010
Looks like I'll be attending. Not sure if ride will be Europa, RV8, or B737 yet Looking forward to it! Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291330#291330 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: AUtopilot - Question re- Connection to Tailplane
Push Rod
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Bob, I think there is also some green stuff like Redux. So my guess is it is bonded also. I did connection by clamping and bonding (by Casco strong epoxy metal), did not want to make any holes and rivet. Raimo #417 ----- Original Message ----- From: JR Gowing To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 2:15 AM Subject: (SPAM) Re: Europa-List: AUtopilot - Question re- Connection to Tailplane Push Rod Klaus I see that your connection to the tailplane pushrod uses two hose clamps to hold the necessary bracket to the pushrod. - Please advise me - Is this connection just a friction grip onto the pushrod or is there some hidden extra to provide a non-slip connection. JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz ----- Original Message ----- From: klaus dietrich To: MJKTuck(at)cs.com Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:19 PM Subject: Europa-List: AUtopilot Martin, I have installed the truetrack AP two years ago with two servos and it works perfectly! You can see pictures of the installation here: http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaAP?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_KjL_1rPb cgwE&feat=directlink If you need further info please call me! All the best, Klaus -- Klaus Dietrich Phone: +43 1 33 777 825 | | Oracle Financing, EMEA ORACLE Austria | IZD Tower, Wagramer Strasse 17-19 | 1223 Vienna Oracle is committed to developing practices and products that help protect the environment ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Date: 03/17/10 19:33:00 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spamessional version does not have this message. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Altimeter settings /configuration UK derogation
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Hi! UK Opertors. Here's the latest CAA Edict :- Approval Under a Derogation Authorised Pursuant to Article 8(3) of Council Regulation (EEC) No. 3922/1991 In Respect of OPS 1.652(C) Sensitive Pressure Altimeter Having Counter Drum-pointer or Equivalent Presentation 1) A Commission Decision dated 3 March 2010 authorises the United Kingdom to derogate from Annex III of Council Regulation (EC) No. 3922/1991 ("EU-OPS") with respect to OPS 1.652(c). The Commission Decision is annexed to this approval. 2) In accordance with that Commission Decision and pursuant to article 8(3) of Council Regulation (EEC) No. 3922/1991, the Civil Aviation Authority on behalf of the United Kingdom approves, in derogation from the provisions of OPS 1.652(c), any operator operating under an Air Operator's Certificate issued in accordance with EU-OPS to operate at or below 10,000 feet/flight level 100 with aeroplanes equipped with two sensitive pressure altimeters calibrated in feet with sub-scale settings, calibrated in hetropascals/millibars, adjusted for any barometric pressure likely to be set during flight without having counter drum-pointer or equivalent presentation. 3) This approval is granted subject to the operator implementing measures acceptable to the Civil Aviation Authority to ensure that flight crews are aware of and trained to read correctly the type of altimeters referred to in paragraph 2 in normal and abnormal circumstances. 4) This approval shall have effect from the date hereof, until varied, suspended or revoked. G B Parker For the Civil Aviation Authority 16 March Can anyone please enlighten me as to what the "bare bones" of this means, please. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Altimeter settings /configuration UK derogation
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Ah! A perfect example of how a common language divides the UK and the US!!! If even Englishmen in the UK can't understand it, what are those Brussellonians up to? "Approval Under a Derogation Authorised Pursuant to Article 8(3) of Council Regulation (EEC) No. 3922/1991 In Respect of OPS 1.652(C) Sensitive Pressure Altimeter Having Counter Drum-pointer or Equivalent Presentation 1) A Commission Decision dated 3 March 2010 authorises the United Kingdom to derogate from Annex III of Council Regulation (EC) No. 3922/1991 ("EU-OPS") with respect to OPS 1.652(c). The Commission Decision is annexed to this approval. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291470#291470 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Full Panel
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Gidday, I am all over the shop, to coin a phrase, but in the mean time I am trying to gather thoughts on a panel. Now I have seen Bob Borger's full width panel on EuropaOwners, and others, but am unsure if these have all been individually made, or whether Europa now sells them. There is a Tri Gear Instrument which I reckon still has the parcel shelf, and then there is a Blank Panel Full Depth Avionics Panel. I reckon neither of these are probably full "width" panels, so what I really want is some pictures somewhere of how guys have done this mod, or in fact whether someone sells a completed full "width" panel? Reg Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Full Panel
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Tony, The full-width instrument panel was purchased from Flight Crafters. ( http://www.flightcrafters.com/ ) You'll have to contact them to see if they can make one for you. Best regards, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 23, 2010, at 17:53, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > Gidday, > I am all over the shop, to coin a phrase, but in the mean time I am trying to gather thoughts on a panel. Now I have seen Bob Borger's full width panel on EuropaOwners, and others, but am unsure if these have all been individually made, or whether Europa now sells them. There is a Tri Gear Instrument which I reckon still has the parcel shelf, and then there is a Blank Panel Full Depth Avionics Panel. I reckon neither of these are probably full "width" panels, so what I really want is some pictures somewhere of how guys have done this mod, or in fact whether someone sells a completed full "width" panel? > Reg > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2010
From: <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Europa Parts
Europa Builders, Flight Crafters has several Europa parts that may be of use to builders. 1 CS10 Anodized crosstube 2 CS09 2 Anodized Aileron Push Rods with rod ends installed 2 W16P 2 CS08 1 Preglassed fwd fuel tank support 2 CS15P 1 New Aluminum Airmaster Spinner with bulkheads 1 Tri-Gear Main Gear leg 1 Set Tailplane Cores 1 set Classic Cowlings 1 set Bronze Windows 1 Completed Tailkit including trim tabs, rudder, tailplanes and torque tube Several Flap cores 2 Rudder Cores 2 XS Spinners with bulkheads Miscl small hardware parts Parts are taking up space so make me a ridiculous offer and take it away. If your planning on attending Sun n Fun arrangments can be made for pick up or viewing at our facility. Please contact me off line or my cell 813 695-1120 Bob Berube Flight Crafters 40417 Chancey Rd. Zephyrhills, FL. 33542 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kit A287 Is up for sale
From: David Legge <leggedav(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Hello All, Regretfully I need to part with my still in progress Europa XS Tri-Gear kit due to a divorce. It is Kit number A287. I began work on it back in 2004 and halted work in 2008. The asking price is 27,000. The Kit includes the bubble canopy option, and the firewall forward kit. Wings are ready for closeout Cockpit module is installed The gear is installed Tailplane is built and ready for finishing Instrument panel fitted flight controls installed with the exception of the rudder cables. Rudder is glassed hinges installed. Ailerons installed. David Legge 1197-C E. Los Angeles Ave. #169 Simi Valley, CA 93065 scvplane(at)gmail.com Phone: 818-949-8218 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Tony, The thought occurs to me to wonder why anyone would want a full width panel these days? The only possible reason I can think of is to house a 1960s array of steam aged instruments with a separate dial for everything, both navigational and engine monitoring. But with such great EFIS & engine management systems available now which save space & weight and allow you to spend much less time with your head in the cockpit while still having enough capacity to safely fly IMC, why not keep the undoubted benefits of a parcel shelf? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:53 PM Subject: Europa-List: Full Panel > > > Gidday, > I am all over the shop, to coin a phrase, but in the mean time I am trying > to gather thoughts on a panel. Now I have seen Bob Borger's full width > panel on EuropaOwners, and others, but am unsure if these have all been > individually made, or whether Europa now sells them. There is a Tri Gear > Instrument which I reckon still has the parcel shelf, and then there is a > Blank Panel Full Depth Avionics Panel. I reckon neither of these are > probably full "width" panels, so what I really want is some pictures > somewhere of how guys have done this mod, or in fact whether someone sells > a completed full "width" panel? > Reg > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
On 03/23/2010 11:53 PM, Tony Renshaw wrote: > Gidday, I am all over the shop, to coin a phrase, but in the mean > time I am trying to gather thoughts on a panel. Now I have seen Bob > Borger's full width panel on EuropaOwners, and others, but am unsure > if these have all been individually made, or whether Europa now sells > them. There is a Tri Gear Instrument which I reckon still has the > parcel shelf, and then there is a Blank Panel Full Depth Avionics > Panel. I reckon neither of these are probably full "width" panels, so > what I really want is some pictures somewhere of how guys have done > this mod, or in fact whether someone sells a completed full "width" > panel? You might want to take a look at our build page, www.privatepilots.nl/europa/building.htm We have a full width panel, and made this ourselves. It is just a matter of modelling. We built a frame from wood, and then some layer of clay on top of it to model the glade shield. A few layers of bid over it, digg out all the stuff once it is cured, and presto, you have an instrument panel. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
On 03/24/2010 08:14 AM, David Joyce wrote: > Tony, The thought occurs to me to wonder why anyone would want a full > width panel these days? I would actually reverse the question: Why would anyone trade panel space for a silly picknick tray? ;-) I can give you a few reasons: 1) Versatility. There are very few (if any?) "we can do it all"-EFIS & engine management systems which are very good in *everything* they are supposed to do. With separate instruments, you can simply pick the instruments that best suit you. For instance, I have a dual electrical system, is there any glass panel thing that can cope with that and display two battery monitors? With separate instruments, you don't have to worry about these things. If I want to replace an instrument later on, because there is a new and better system, I can just do so, and am not bound to the EFIS I'm using (which manufacturer might have gone out of business by then). 2) Reliability. Most solid state gyro systems are simply lying. They don't display the real attitude, but compute that from a number of sources and play a nice game of averaging, which seems to work well as long as you fly VFR. But fly uncoordinated for 15 minutes or so, with one wing lower than the other, and most of these systems quickly adapt to it and start to tell that you are actually flying straight and level. 3) Redundancy. Apart from the obvious facts that with these systems you put all your eggs in one basket, again the attitude indicator is the main danger. Instead of being an independant instrument, it computes the attitude from a number of sources, like static pressure for instance. (Gravity sensors have too much drift, so the instrument calibrates itself with other sources: "If static pressure increases, we are descending, so let's display a nose down attitude.") Now, if you loose your static port in IMC conditions, with conventional instruments you loose a few instruments, but the attitude indicator (horizon) can help you out. Not so with a glass panel, because if the static port is gone, the horizon is gone too. Same with the pitot. And of course, if you hit the display in turbulence, you don't loose a single instrument, but everything you have. I wouldn't dare to fly in IMC with such a thing. 4) Readability. Steam instruments are easy to read. You get used to a certain needle position, and even the smallest deviation, or vibration will attract your attention. With a digital representation the resolution is often to course. A numerical output is then better, but numerical outputs are horrible for the brain, consuming much more resources to interpret, compared to just reading the angle of a needle. Then of course we all know how easily computers lie to us. If the display shows some parameter climbing in the red line, it is always a question whether it is real, or just a sensor or data cable problem, interference, or whatever. Here in the Netherlands (and probably a lot of other countries as well) we are required to have a TSO'd altimeter, airspeed indicator, and a compass. So, we already need three separate instruments of the standard six pack, besides the EFIS. Now add a separate gyro instrument to the stack to partly solve the redundancy problem. Now also add an autopilot to it, which comes with a turn indicator built in. What are we actually saving with our EFIS? Just the vertical speed indicator! I did the math while I was designing my panel, and discovered that with any EFIS, I would actually add weight (considering my desire for redundancy), add costs, loose some flexibility, and decided that it is not worth it. I also decided that I don't need a picknick tray. My lunch can wait until I'm done flying. Packages can be put in the bagage bay. The picknick tray is not the best place to keep loose stuff, and put anything white or shiny in it and it affects the vision. And then I also just disliked it. I'm building an airplane, and it should look like an airplane. ;-) Keeping the picknick tray would simply mean, even with an EFIS, that I would have to scramble for panel space and probably trade off a few desirable features. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "uvtreith" <uvtreith@t-online.de>
Subject: Full Panel
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Hi Tony, Europa Aircraft is selling some different pre-cut panels, also for EFIS installation. Please see the attached drawings. All the Best from Germany Bruno Reith -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht----- Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von Tony Renshaw Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. M=E4rz 2010 23:53 An: europa-list(at)matronics.com Betreff: Europa-List: Full Panel Gidday, I am all over the shop, to coin a phrase, but in the mean time I am trying to gather thoughts on a panel. Now I have seen Bob Borger's full width panel on EuropaOwners, and others, but am unsure if these have all been individually made, or whether Europa now sells them. There is a Tri Gear Instrument which I reckon still has the parcel shelf, and then there is a Blank Panel Full Depth Avionics Panel. I reckon neither of these are probably full "width" panels, so what I really want is some pictures somewhere of how guys have done this mod, or in fact whether someone sells a completed full "width" panel? Reg Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AW: Full Panel
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2010
The full width panels, like the one I use, were made for FlightCrafters in Zephyrhills, FL. Try calling Russ Lepre to see if he can still have them made, or you can try one your self. It basically just requires a big foam plug for the laminating over on the right side. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291537#291537 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Full Panel
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Frans, I can understand your concerns with regard to EFIS panels, and what you have said no doubt was true at the start of efis development, these day most efis panels continually cross check solid state gyro information with both GPS and pressure infomation to assess the accuracy of the data being received, and the gyros themselves are now capable of detecting and correcting drift automatically, and yes most panels can handle multiple inputs for almost anything in or on your A/C. FWIW, I did a work out on weights about a year ago and the efis panel with two comm radios, Nav radio, Transponder, came in about 15KG lighter than a gyro steam gauge setup and a small GPS unit (giving the same basic functionality on both panels) craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frans Veldman Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 8:33 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Full Panel On 03/24/2010 08:14 AM, David Joyce wrote: > Tony, The thought occurs to me to wonder why anyone would want a full > width panel these days? I would actually reverse the question: Why would anyone trade panel space for a silly picknick tray? ;-) I can give you a few reasons: 1) Versatility. There are very few (if any?) "we can do it all"-EFIS & engine management systems which are very good in *everything* they are supposed to do. With separate instruments, you can simply pick the instruments that best suit you. For instance, I have a dual electrical system, is there any glass panel thing that can cope with that and display two battery monitors? With separate instruments, you don't have to worry about these things. If I want to replace an instrument later on, because there is a new and better system, I can just do so, and am not bound to the EFIS I'm using (which manufacturer might have gone out of business by then). 2) Reliability. Most solid state gyro systems are simply lying. They don't display the real attitude, but compute that from a number of sources and play a nice game of averaging, which seems to work well as long as you fly VFR. But fly uncoordinated for 15 minutes or so, with one wing lower than the other, and most of these systems quickly adapt to it and start to tell that you are actually flying straight and level. 3) Redundancy. Apart from the obvious facts that with these systems you put all your eggs in one basket, again the attitude indicator is the main danger. Instead of being an independant instrument, it computes the attitude from a number of sources, like static pressure for instance. (Gravity sensors have too much drift, so the instrument calibrates itself with other sources: "If static pressure increases, we are descending, so let's display a nose down attitude.") Now, if you loose your static port in IMC conditions, with conventional instruments you loose a few instruments, but the attitude indicator (horizon) can help you out. Not so with a glass panel, because if the static port is gone, the horizon is gone too. Same with the pitot. And of course, if you hit the display in turbulence, you don't loose a single instrument, but everything you have. I wouldn't dare to fly in IMC with such a thing. 4) Readability. Steam instruments are easy to read. You get used to a certain needle position, and even the smallest deviation, or vibration will attract your attention. With a digital representation the resolution is often to course. A numerical output is then better, but numerical outputs are horrible for the brain, consuming much more resources to interpret, compared to just reading the angle of a needle. Then of course we all know how easily computers lie to us. If the display shows some parameter climbing in the red line, it is always a question whether it is real, or just a sensor or data cable problem, interference, or whatever. Here in the Netherlands (and probably a lot of other countries as well) we are required to have a TSO'd altimeter, airspeed indicator, and a compass. So, we already need three separate instruments of the standard six pack, besides the EFIS. Now add a separate gyro instrument to the stack to partly solve the redundancy problem. Now also add an autopilot to it, which comes with a turn indicator built in. What are we actually saving with our EFIS? Just the vertical speed indicator! I did the math while I was designing my panel, and discovered that with any EFIS, I would actually add weight (considering my desire for redundancy), add costs, loose some flexibility, and decided that it is not worth it. I also decided that I don't need a picknick tray. My lunch can wait until I'm done flying. Packages can be put in the bagage bay. The picknick tray is not the best place to keep loose stuff, and put anything white or shiny in it and it affects the vision. And then I also just disliked it. I'm building an airplane, and it should look like an airplane. ;-) Keeping the picknick tray would simply mean, even with an EFIS, that I would have to scramble for panel space and probably trade off a few desirable features. Frans Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 19:44:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
On 03/24/2010 01:25 PM, craig bastin wrote: > Frans, I can understand your concerns with regard to EFIS panels, and what > you have > said no doubt was true at the start of efis development, these day most efis > panels > continually cross check solid state gyro information with both GPS and > pressure infomation > to assess the accuracy of the data being received, and the gyros themselves > are now capable > of detecting and correcting drift automatically, This is what I was saying. Take the GPS and pressure information away from these EFIS panels, and the solid state gyro will go south very soon! So, just when you need the horizon most (with a clogged pressure system) it will fail to help you out. > FWIW, I did a work out on weights > about a year ago > and the efis panel with two comm radios, Nav radio, Transponder, came in > about 15KG lighter > than a gyro steam gauge setup and a small GPS unit (giving the same basic > functionality on both > panels) Hmm, all the instruments in my full size panel together weigh less than 15 Kg's. To get to a weight difference of 15Kg you must really do your best to find the heaviest instruments you can find. For a standard sixpack, each of the instruments must weigh more than 2,5Kg's! I have some difficulty to believe that these figures are accurate. Anyway, I was just clearing up why someone would prefer more panel space over a picknick tray. It is not my intention to start a EFIS versus steam war. ;-) Everything is somehow a compromise. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Subject: Re: Full Panel
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Hi all, I would like to add my experience. I find the parcel tray is very little value, at least for the type of flying I have been doing. The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area. I had a tough time getting the Apollo GX60 comm/gps and SL70 transponder to fit without hitting the firewall. Garmin 430's can be tough to fit in as well. To Frans point, fabricating your own isn't a big task. I recall Bob Jacobson (no longer a Europa owner) reporting that is "home fabricated" panel weighed 2 lbs less than the factory panel and he didn't use carbon fiber. He also included internal cooling ducts and a couple of other neat features. As to weight savings. When I removed my "6 pack", pump, hoses and regulator I weighted them and they came in at 14 pounds. My EFIS and backup instruments came in at 6 pounds so I had a net saving of 8 pounds. My primary instruments are a pair of GRT EFIS with a single AHRS. These display my engine parameters as well. My back up's are 2.25" instruments: - Trutrack single axis auto pilot - Trutrack ADI - Winter ASI - Mechanical Altimeter - Dual / alternative buss electrical buss I have about 300 hours on this new panel configuration including quite a bit of IFR time in actual conditions. I have not had a problem with the EFIS display getting its self confused, however I do keep my back up instruments in my scan, and my auto pilot does not rely on any external system to keep straight and level. If I was to do this over again. I would only have a separate autopilot and my primary + back up instruments would be a pair of EFIS with dual AHRS and dual pitot / static systems. Although it is a bunch of work to make the two separate systems agree, this setup offers a high level of redundancy. So, I guess this is a long winded way of saying that I would build my own panel, try not to stuff it too full of goodies and that I am fine with "All glass" if sufficient thought is applied to failure & effects analysis. Cheers, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Altimeter settings /configuration UK derogation
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Hi Raimo, Are you saying that Finnish people understand this legal gibberish?? I have a number of friends in Helsinki and while they usually understand me, I don't believe they would handle BrusX any better than I. Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291579#291579 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Altimeter settings /configuration UK derogation
Date: Mar 24, 2010
Hi Ira > > Are you saying that Finnish people understand this legal gibberish?? no, I was trying to say "this legal gibberish" must have been produced by some Finnish bureaucrat in Bryssel... They are very talent doing that, they can even produce Finnish text that nobody understands here. Ask your friends in Helsinki... Raimo from Finland OH-XRT #417 please archive! ----- Original Message ----- From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 8:57 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Altimeter settings /configuration UK derogation > > Hi Raimo, > > Are you saying that Finnish people understand this legal gibberish?? > > I have a number of friends in Helsinki and while they usually understand > me, I don't believe they would handle BrusX any better than I. > > Ira > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291579#291579 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
Date: Mar 25, 2010
On Mar 24, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Paul McAllister wrote: > The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal > volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area. Paul, I'm wondering if the depth issue is solved by floating the panel on those shock-mount studs with the rubber spacer of approx. 3/4", removing of course the back of the instrument panel module except in the areas where it is reinforced and acts as a flange for the studs? Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2010
From: William Daniell <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Re: Door hinges to fuselage
For those who have not reached this point What I have ended up doing which might be of use to others is filling the rebate with flox covering with cling film and then putting the doors on fitted correctly. this gives you a spacer of exactly the right size with - added bonus- bumps where the screw holes should go. You then fit the door with one of the hinge screws missing and using the hole in the door tang and the hinge as a guide drill through the fuselage to get the fuze hinge bolt connected. you have to use a countersunk csk screw instead of the recommended item. it seems a little easier than the rapid expoy procedure in the manual. Oh and yes as Jim and everyone else says the gazillion times on and off to ensure a decent fit before you drill anything will jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote: > > Will- > > > > I think most of us required shims under the hinges to set the door > even with the fuselage top. I find it easiest to use BID in the hinge > rebate to get the spacing right. By doing so, you get some additional > "bang for your buck" in that the BID adds reinforcement to the hinge > bed, as well as being able to closely control the thickness of the > shim by the number of layers of BID applied. I followed the same > practice with my rudder hinges. As far as the shot bolts, I found the > procedure in the manual worked fine. I installed the hinges first, > then the bolts in the doors, then put a little paint on the end of the > shot bolt, held the door closed, closed the latch to mark the door > rebates on the fuselage, then drilled and filed the fuselage until the > bushings were slightly free floating in the hole when the door was > closed with the bolt inserted. I then heavily greased the shot bolts, > closed the door and REDUXed the bushings. It worked just fine. > Getting the hinge rebates and the hinge tangs fit correctly was a real > nuisance. I must have had the doors on and off 50 times. > > > > Jim Puglise A-283 > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:00:31 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Europa-List: Door hinges to fuselage > > Dear all > > My door hinges require a spacer of 3mm - presumably - ply and - > presumably - glassed in on the fuselage (bottom hinge) in order to fit > properly...my question was is this normal and if so where in the > manual was the instruction to do this? > > Will > > > * > > arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > p://forums.matronics.com > blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
That's exactly what I did, I used 1 1/2 cotton reel rubber mounts to stand off the instrument panel, It gives enough space to fit a Garnin SL30 and GTX327 and Dynon EFIS/EMS with room to spare, (just :-) Ivor G-IVER ---- Fred Klein wrote: > > > On Mar 24, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Paul McAllister wrote: > > > The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal > > volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area. > > Paul, > > I'm wondering if the depth issue is solved by floating the panel on > those shock-mount studs with the rubber spacer of approx. 3/4", > removing of course the back of the instrument panel module except in > the areas where it is reinforced and acts as a flange for the studs? > > Fred > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Only partly off topic....
Date: Mar 25, 2010
I quote: "Hi Bob, It means that UK Public Transport Operators have an exemption to operate with the older altimeters that are not approved under JAR OPS. The altimeters that comply with ICAO and JAR OPS 1 are the counter drum-pointer display which display digital altitude with the resolution of 100ft. What does it mean to you....... Nothing, You are not public transport operating under an Air Operators Certificate. You do not operate your aircraft under JAR OPS...... there's lucky. Regards, Mike" May I be the first to vote Mike Parkin as ideal applicant for both Prime Minister of Canada, Premier of the Province of Ontario, Regional Chairman of Halton and Mayor of Burlington - our FOUR levels of "government". Ferg now Europa Classic registering as C-FFGG ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: installing thedoor seal gasket
Date: Mar 25, 2010
In the process of installing the gasket I have run into the very resistant qualities of this item at the sharp corners of the door. I tried tapping the "claws" onto the edge but it tries to rotate out before I can convert its bad behaviour into submission. What did you do - especially at the corners? Happy landings Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2010
Subject: Re: Full Panel
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Fred, Yes I did space mine out from the fire wall by about 20mm and that sure helped, but if I was to do it over again I would make my own panel out of carbon fiber. Interestingly enough there is not many other things I would do different on the aircraft, fuel system comes to mind but that's about it really. Cheers, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2010
Subject: Re: installing thedoor seal gasket
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Ferg "In the process of installing the gasket I have run into the very resistant qualities of this item >>> What did you do - especially at the corners?" I really didn't have too much problems, I started at one end and using a piece of Oak bout 3/4" x 3/4" x 6" long pounded into position a little at a time, always forcing seal towards part that was fully in position (where you started from). In the sharp corners again always force towards where you started from so you don't undo what you just did. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Full Panel
Date: Mar 26, 2010
It's perhaps worth saying that I have a GTX328, an SL 30 and a Flydat mounted on the right side of the standard factory panel fixed flush to the firewall together with prop controller, intercom ,pitch trim & sundry contact breakers & warning lights. It was a reasonably tight fit but not one only possible with gynaecological skills! Could send picture if any help. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 6:34 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Full Panel > > That's exactly what I did, I used 1 1/2 cotton reel rubber mounts to stand > off the instrument panel, It gives enough space to fit a Garnin SL30 and > GTX327 and Dynon EFIS/EMS with room to spare, (just :-) > Ivor > G-IVER > ---- Fred Klein wrote: >> >> >> On Mar 24, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Paul McAllister wrote: >> >> > The challenge I have with the factory panel is more around internal >> > volume, in particular its depth rather than the external area. >> >> Paul, >> >> I'm wondering if the depth issue is solved by floating the panel on >> those shock-mount studs with the rubber spacer of approx. 3/4", >> removing of course the back of the instrument panel module except in >> the areas where it is reinforced and acts as a flange for the studs? >> >> Fred >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Fuel dripping from airbox 914 ?
During the winter months, awaiting an opportunity for weighing the airplane, I kept the Europa with empty tanks. (Weighing has been done by now: 421Kg, CG exactly in the middle). Now, in preparation to first flight, I decided to fill the tanks again. After I swicthed on the fuel pump, I noticed that my fuel flow gauge indicated a flow of 2.5 L/h, without the engine running. I thought of air entrapped in the sensor, until I noticed that fuel was leaking from the cowling. Further investigation revealed that the overflow of the airbox on the port side was spilling fuel. Fuel pressure is correct. So, I guess there is something wrong with the port carb. So far, for all my Europa related problems, someone on the forum could help me to find a solution. Before I start disassembling the carburator, I would like to get a confirmation that that is what I should be doing, and if there is anything else that could be the cause, or if there is any other solution, I would like to hear. First flight can be performed as soon as weather cooperates and a suitable test pilot has time for this, so I hope this problem can be solved without causing a delay.... Thanks in advance for any insight. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel dripping from airbox 914 ?
Frans, Off the top of my head, I'd guess a sticky float or restriction in the fuel return line. Any other ideas out there? Bob Borger On Friday, March 26, 2010, at 11:12AM, "Frans Veldman" wrote: > >During the winter months, awaiting an opportunity for weighing the >airplane, I kept the Europa with empty tanks. >(Weighing has been done by now: 421Kg, CG exactly in the middle). > >Now, in preparation to first flight, I decided to fill the tanks again. >After I swicthed on the fuel pump, I noticed that my fuel flow gauge >indicated a flow of 2.5 L/h, without the engine running. I thought of >air entrapped in the sensor, until I noticed that fuel was leaking from >the cowling. Further investigation revealed that the overflow of the >airbox on the port side was spilling fuel. > >Fuel pressure is correct. > >So, I guess there is something wrong with the port carb. So far, for all >my Europa related problems, someone on the forum could help me to find a >solution. Before I start disassembling the carburator, I would like to >get a confirmation that that is what I should be doing, and if there is >anything else that could be the cause, or if there is any other >solution, I would like to hear. > >First flight can be performed as soon as weather cooperates and a >suitable test pilot has time for this, so I hope this problem can be >solved without causing a delay.... > >Thanks in advance for any insight. >Frans > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Antenna tuning
Date: Mar 26, 2010
I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm antenna. T he manual says to tune by shortening until minimum reading at 127.50 I am getting Minimum reading at 133.00. My last two cuts of 3mm have not moved t he minimum reading 1.5 at 133.00 above and below this frequency the reading s are at 1.9 -1.9. Do I keep shortening the antenna???? Any ideas? Regards Dave Park G-LDVO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
David- I assume you are talking about the copper strip antenna that comes with the kit.=C2- My own approach is to start at the bottom of the band and recor d the SWR every 50 khz.=C2- After you have done this, put the figures in Excel and graph it.=C2- Each line in your Excel spreadsheet shoud have on e frequency in column A and the SWR at that frequency in column B.=C2- In this way, you can see what the antenna is doing through the entire band. =C2- You need to be concerned that the SWR is not extremely high at one e nd and extremely low at the other.=C2- I usually shoot for 1.0-1.2 / 1 at the center and 1.9 or so at each band edge.=C2- If you are at 1.5 in the middle of the band, that should be just fine.=C2- The reason you are not seeing change with small adjustments is that it is probably relatively fla t a few MHZ each side of resonance.=C2- Also, I don't know if you are usi ng the coax that comes with the kit, but I took one look at it and threw it away.=C2- Invest in some good RG-58 for the comm antenna and some RG-400 for the transponder.=C2- When you look at the graph, it will be very obv ious what you need to do. Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 5:43:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Europa-List: Antenna tuning I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm antenna.=C2 - The manual says to tune by shortening=C2-until minimum reading at 127 .50=C2- I am getting Minimum reading at 133.00. My last two cuts of 3mm h ave not moved the minimum reading 1.5 at 133.00 above and below this freque ncy the readings are at 1.9 -1.9. Do I keep shortening the antenna???? Any ideas?=C2- Regards Dave Park=C2- G-LDVO == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Antenna tuning
Date: Mar 26, 2010
Jim=2C Thanks for that=2C yes I did use the coax that came with the kit - major jo b to change that now - unless it is worth making a connection in the tail a rea to the kit coax with RG58?? I am just a bit concerned that if I keep cutting to achieve 1=2C5 at 127.5 =2C presently 133.0 I might bxxxxx it up compleyely! Dave Date: Fri=2C 26 Mar 2010 21:59:15 +0000 From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Subject: Re: Europa-List: Antenna tuning David- I assume you are talking about the copper strip antenna that comes with the kit. My own approach is to start at the bottom of the band and record the SWR every 50 khz. After you have done this=2C put the figures in Excel an d graph it. Each line in your Excel spreadsheet shoud have one frequency i n column A and the SWR at that frequency in column B. In this way=2C you c an see what the antenna is doing through the entire band. You need to be c oncerned that the SWR is not extremely high at one end and extremely low at the other. I usually shoot for 1.0-1.2 / 1 at the center and 1.9 or so at each band edge. If you are at 1.5 in the middle of the band=2C that shoul d be just fine. The reason you are not seeing change with small adjustment s is that it is probably relatively flat a few MHZ each side of resonance. Also=2C I don't know if you are using the coax that comes with the kit=2C but I took one look at it and threw it away. Invest in some good RG-58 for the comm antenna and some RG-400 for the transponder. When you look at th e graph=2C it will be very obvious what you need to do. Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Friday=2C March 26=2C 2010 5:43:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Europa-List: Antenna tuning I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm antenna. T he manual says to tune by shortening until minimum reading at 127.50 I am getting Minimum reading at 133.00. My last two cuts of 3mm have not moved t he minimum reading 1.5 at 133.00 above and below this frequency the reading s are at 1.9 -1.9. Do I keep shortening the antenna???? Any ideas? Regards Dave Park G-LDVO arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Antenna tuning
Date: Mar 26, 2010
> I am just a bit concerned that if I keep cutting to achieve 1,5 at 127.5, presently 133.0 I might bxxxxx it up compleyely! > Dave Dave, Unless I am suffering from temporary dyslexia, I think you would need to lengthen your antenna at this point, to get the SWR reading to come down in frequency from a low reading at 133Mhz, since 133Mhz has a smaller wavelength than 127.5 Mhz regards, Greg Fuchs XS Tri _____ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
Dave- Shortening the antenna raises the resonant frequency, lengtlhening it decre ases it.=C2- No, if it is a hassle, it would not be worth changing the ca ble.=C2- If you do the graph, you will get a better picture of just where you are. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 6:12:46 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: Europa-List: Antenna tuning Jim, Thanks for that, yes I did use the coax that came with the kit - major job to change that now - unless it is worth making a connection in the tail are a to the kit coax with RG58?? I am just a bit concerned that if I keep cutting to achieve 1,5 at 127.5, p resently 133.0 I might bxxxxx it up compleyely! Dave=C2- Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:59:15 +0000 From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Subject: Re: Europa-List: Antenna tuning David- =C2- I assume you are talking about the copper strip antenna that comes with the kit.=C2- My own approach is to start at the bottom of the band and recor d the SWR every 50 khz.=C2- After you have done this, put the figures in Excel and graph it.=C2- Each line in your Excel spreadsheet shoud have on e frequency in column A and the SWR at that frequency in column B.=C2- In this way, you can see what the antenna is doing through the entire band. =C2- You need to be concerned that the SWR is not extremely high at one e nd and extremely low at the other.=C2- I usually shoot for 1.0-1.2 / 1 at the center and 1.9 or so at each band edge.=C2- If you are at 1.5 in the middle of the band, that should be just fine.=C2- The reason you are not seeing change with small adjustments is that it is probably relatively fla t a few MHZ each side of resonance.=C2- Also, I don't know if you are usi ng the coax that comes with the kit, but I took one look at it and threw it away.=C2- Invest in some good RG-58 for the comm antenna and some RG-400 for the transponder.=C2- When you look at the graph, it will be very obv ious what you need to do. =C2- Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 5:43:11 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Europa-List: Antenna tuning I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm antenna.=C2 - The manual says to tune by shortening=C2-until minimum reading at 127 .50=C2- I am getting Minimum reading at 133.00. My last two cuts of 3mm h ave not moved the minimum reading 1.5 at 133.00 above and below this freque ncy the readings are at 1.9 -1.9. Do I keep shortening the antenna???? Any ideas?=C2- Regards Dave Park=C2- G-LDVO arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.ma tronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution >http://www.matroni ======== == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Churchill-Coleman" <richard.churchill-coleman(at)sky.com>
Subject: Free Paint Kit
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Dear Listers, Time has crept up on me and I have realised that the Europa Factory epoxy paint that I received with my kit has technically expired - the component tins are dated between 10/09 and 12/09. They've remained sealed and at roomish temperature for the period and I understand that generally they are good for about 6 months at least after the technical shelf life. However, there is no hope whatsoever of me being ready to paint inside 18 months and probably more like 48!! So, the paint is going to waste and if anyone is ready to paint their Europa and happy to collect or bear the shipping costs then they are welcome to the paint kit. Just let me know - preferably off list. If the offer seems popular then I'll post back on list when the paint has been taken up by someone. Richard C-C G-RPCC 912 Mono Near Southampton, UK if anyone wants to collect. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Finnish people
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Quote, "There are many Finnish people... Raimo" Not nearly enough in my opinion, remembering the Mannerheim Line. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Free Paint Kit
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Hi Richard, May I take you up on your offer. As his inspector, I do so on behalf of a builder who will be ready to paint quite soon. Pete Jeffers _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Churchill-Coleman Sent: 27 March 2010 12:18 Subject: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Dear Listers, Time has crept up on me and I have realised that the Europa Factory epoxy paint that I received with my kit has technically expired - the component tins are dated between 10/09 and 12/09. They've remained sealed and at roomish temperature for the period and I understand that generally they are good for about 6 months at least after the technical shelf life. However, there is no hope whatsoever of me being ready to paint inside 18 months and probably more like 48!! So, the paint is going to waste and if anyone is ready to paint their Europa and happy to collect or bear the shipping costs then they are welcome to the paint kit. Just let me know - preferably off list. If the offer seems popular then I'll post back on list when the paint has been taken up by someone. Richard C-C G-RPCC 912 Mono Near Southampton, UK if anyone wants to collect. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject:
Date: Mar 27, 2010
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Subject: Europa-List: Antenna tuning I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm antenna. T he manual says to tune by shortening until minimum reading at 127.50 I am getting Minimum reading at 133.00. My last two cuts of 3mm have not moved t he minimum reading 1.5 at 133.00 above and below this frequency the reading s are at 1.9 -1.9. Do I keep shortening the antenna????Any ideas? Regards Dave Park G-LDVO Dave, All your answers so far are on the money - shorten > increase freq;, lengthen > decrease freq. When you complete the suggested graph, my bet is the freq with lowest SWR is too high. That ain't all bad, as they say, because if the antenna is embedded, to shorten it would mean digging out. However if the antenna is a smidgen short a judicial drill into each end of the dipole will permit an electrical screw to join the original embedded to external extended strips which may be newly trimmed onto freq. Good luck Ferg PS: ...or you can contact the nearest Ham club - a lot of what they do these days is design and refine their antennas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Churchill-Coleman" <richard.churchill-coleman(at)sky.com>
Subject: Free Paint Kit
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Pete - going going gone to you (or at least your builder). It's sat in my workshop and not in the way so ask him to get in contact and we can arrange for him to pick it up etc at his leisure. rcc _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Jeffers Sent: 27 March 2010 14:10 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Hi Richard, May I take you up on your offer. As his inspector, I do so on behalf of a builder who will be ready to paint quite soon. Pete Jeffers _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Churchill-Coleman Sent: 27 March 2010 12:18 Subject: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Dear Listers, Time has crept up on me and I have realised that the Europa Factory epoxy paint that I received with my kit has technically expired - the component tins are dated between 10/09 and 12/09. They've remained sealed and at roomish temperature for the period and I understand that generally they are good for about 6 months at least after the technical shelf life. However, there is no hope whatsoever of me being ready to paint inside 18 months and probably more like 48!! So, the paint is going to waste and if anyone is ready to paint their Europa and happy to collect or bear the shipping costs then they are welcome to the paint kit. Just let me know - preferably off list. If the offer seems popular then I'll post back on list when the paint has been taken up by someone. Richard C-C G-RPCC 912 Mono Near Southampton, UK if anyone wants to collect. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution 19:33:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Free Paint Kit
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Richard, Very many thanks for that. We will be coming down to Southampton in the near future on our way to the Isle of Wight so would like to take the opportunity to pick it up then. My e mail address is pjeffers(at)talktalk.net so perhaps we could communicate off line, re the details. Again many thanks. Pete _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Churchill-Coleman Sent: 27 March 2010 17:45 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Pete - going going gone to you (or at least your builder). It's sat in my workshop and not in the way so ask him to get in contact and we can arrange for him to pick it up etc at his leisure. rcc _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Jeffers Sent: 27 March 2010 14:10 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Hi Richard, May I take you up on your offer. As his inspector, I do so on behalf of a builder who will be ready to paint quite soon. Pete Jeffers _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Churchill-Coleman Sent: 27 March 2010 12:18 Subject: Europa-List: Free Paint Kit Dear Listers, Time has crept up on me and I have realised that the Europa Factory epoxy paint that I received with my kit has technically expired - the component tins are dated between 10/09 and 12/09. They've remained sealed and at roomish temperature for the period and I understand that generally they are good for about 6 months at least after the technical shelf life. However, there is no hope whatsoever of me being ready to paint inside 18 months and probably more like 48!! So, the paint is going to waste and if anyone is ready to paint their Europa and happy to collect or bear the shipping costs then they are welcome to the paint kit. Just let me know - preferably off list. If the offer seems popular then I'll post back on list when the paint has been taken up by someone. Richard C-C G-RPCC 912 Mono Near Southampton, UK if anyone wants to collect. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref "http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c 271.1.1/2772 - Release Date: 03/26/10 19:33:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone?
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Hi Bud, Are you still looking for additional takers? If so, I may be interested in 1 quart if it could be shipped to the UPS store in Odgenburg NY within 2 weeks (as I have something else to pick up there). Many thanks, Pete On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: > US Europaphiles, > Anyone in need of Redux? > Two other builders and I each need a kit. Anyone else want to get in on > it. Saves about $35 on hazardous fees per kit. A case ships for the same > price as a quart. > > Last purchase price was about $270 with shipping/hazardous (think of the > children)... > > Contact: Bud Yerly at budyerly(at)msn.com > > * > > * > > -- "A man is not old until his regrets take the place of his dreams. " ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Wheel Pant Recommendations
Date: Mar 28, 2010
Gidday, I'm getting closer to being able to put my a/c on its Grove gear leg, with the 500 series wheels and brakes. Does anyone have any advice as to the better types of wheel pants that look best for our beasts?? It is not a bad time to find out before you bolt all the bits together, as there is a mounting bracket that sits in behind the axle when bolted onto the leg. Reg Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
From: "Bill & Sue" <Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Date: Mar 28, 2010
David, If you are anywhere near me (Aylesbury, so must be closer than Ferg!)) I'm happy to turn out and provide some hands-on help if you think that would be useful. I suffer from the delusion that I know a little about antennas (antennae?) and I have a couple of suitable SWR meters and some practical experience messing about with this sort of antenna. Please give me a call on 01296 689165 if you think that would be any use or you just want some telephone advice. Regards Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292045#292045 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
Date: Mar 28, 2010
Bill=2C Thanks for the offer but I am in South Manchester=2C nr airport!. But I may ring you when I am next in the garage. Originally with the length at 490mm as per drawing the best SWR was at 133.00. I shrortened it down to 480mm b ut could not get best SWR mid frequency range. I have temporarly extended t he antenna to try again. Regards Dave > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning > From: Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 03:21:15 -0700 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > l.co.uk> > > David=2C > > If you are anywhere near me (Aylesbury=2C so must be closer than Ferg!)) I'm happy to turn out and provide some hands-on help if you think that woul d be useful. I suffer from the delusion that I know a little about antennas (antennae?) and I have a couple of suitable SWR meters and some practical experience messing about with this sort of antenna. Please give me a call o n 01296 689165 if you think that would be any use or you just want some tel ephone advice. > > Regards > > Bill > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292045#292045 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
David- I think you have been trimming your copper tape in millimeters.=C2- I did a couple of calculations this morning and you change resonant frequency is about .38 inches (around 10 mm) per mhz.=C2- So--if you have been trimmi ng your foil at 2 mm per check, you would need to trim it 5 times to move i t 1 mhz.=C2- If you do your graph, you should be able to calculate very c losely how you need to trim it and do it with a single cut. Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:30:11 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning Bill, Thanks for the offer but I am in South Manchester, nr airport!. But I may r ing you when I am next in the garage. Originally with the length at 490mm a s per=C2-drawing the best SWR was at 133.00. I shrortened it down to 480m m but could not get best SWR mid frequency range.=C2-I have temporarly ex tended the antenna to try again. Regards Dave=C2- > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning > From: Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk > Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 03:21:15 -0700 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > co.uk> > > David, > > If you are anywhere near me (Aylesbury, so must be closer than Ferg!)) I' m happy to turn out and provide some hands-on help if you think that would be useful. I suffer from the delusion that I know a little about antennas ( antennae?) and I have a couple of suitable SWR meters and some practical ex perience messing about with this sort of antenna. Please give me a call on 01296 689165 if you think that would be any use or you just want some telep hone advice. > > Regards > > Bill > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292045#292045 > > > > > >============== > > > == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel Pant Recommendations
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2010
G'day Tony, I'm building a Little Toot Sport Biplane and I'm using some custom Grove landing gear with all grove brakes, axles, etc. It will have wheel pants. You can see some pics in my "Taz" build gallery in the second URL in the signature block. I don't know of any wheel pant mount that will go behind the landing gear. I can understand wanting to do that. Cleaner, neater and probably less drag, but it's tough to engineer. One benefit of the normal way is building jacking pads which go on the inside of the axle. I'll have to add some pics of the jack pads we use on the Toot later today. If you should like the wheel pants we use on the Toot I'll put you in touch with Tommy Meyer (Tommy's dad,George Meyer, built the first Meyer Special, Little Toot in 1954) If you should want a set of those pants. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 http://www.biplaneforumgallery.com/index.php?cat=10046 Europa Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Mar 28, 2010, at 0:03, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > Gidday, > I'm getting closer to being able to put my a/c on its Grove gear leg, with the 500 series wheels and brakes. Does anyone have any advice as to the better types of wheel pants that look best for our beasts?? It is not a bad time to find out before you bolt all the bits together, as there is a mounting bracket that sits in behind the axle when bolted onto the leg. > Reg > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Stage 1 Parts For offer
From: "flying farmer" <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Mar 28, 2010
Fellow Builders, I have a surplus Stage 1 Kit available. I have decided to split it up into vireos parts, as this may appeal to some builders. As I originally started building My Europa Aircraft and only purchased Stage one from the factory. On completion of stage one, I purchases the rest of my kit (Sage 1, 2 & 3) from another builder who had never started his build This gave me a surplus stage 1 Kit. I have Put the Items on EBay, as this way It give someone the chance to perches the Items separately if desired. The Links are below. You ca contact me off Line rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk Torque Tube http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549643082&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Port Aileron http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549642579&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Starboard Aileron http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549642816&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Port Flap http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549642645&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Starboard Flap http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549642901&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Port Tailplane http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549642740&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Starboard Tailplane http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549643000&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Thank You Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292091#292091 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
Date: Mar 28, 2010
Bill=2C Jim=2C Out of interest what kind of length did you both end up with?? Dave Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 13:18:44 +0000 From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning David- I think you have been trimming your copper tape in millimeters. I did a co uple of calculations this morning and you change resonant frequency is abou t .38 inches (around 10 mm) per mhz. So--if you have been trimming your fo il at 2 mm per check=2C you would need to trim it 5 times to move it 1 mhz. If you do your graph=2C you should be able to calculate very closely how you need to trim it and do it with a single cut. Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Sunday=2C March 28=2C 2010 7:30:11 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning Bill=2C Thanks for the offer but I am in South Manchester=2C nr airport!. But I may ring you when I am next in the garage. Originally with the length at 490mm as per drawing the best SWR was at 133.00. I shrortened it down to 480mm b ut could not get best SWR mid frequency range. I have temporarly extended t he antenna to try again. Regards Dave > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning > From: Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 03:21:15 -0700 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > l.co.uk> > > David=2C > > If you are anywhere near me (Aylesbury=2C so must be closer than Ferg!)) I'm happy to turn out and provide some hands-on help if you think that woul d be useful. I suffer from the delusion that I know a little about antennas (antennae?) and I have a couple of suitable SWR meters and some practical experience messing about with this sort of antenna. Please give me a call o n 01296 689165 if you think that would be any use or you just want some tel ephone advice. > > Regards > > Bill > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292045#292045 > > > > > >============= > > > arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
Dave- Sorry, I can't tell you.=C2- It calculates to 43 inches, but I canabalize d the included antenna and cut it for the amateur 2 meter band.=C2- It is installed just aft of the "D" panel and cut for 146 MHZ.=C2- I used a co mmercial (AAE) antenna for my comm.=C2- It gets a touch technical, but th e AAE antenna is what is called a folded dipole, so it is about twice the b andwidth of a conventional dipole.=C2- If you attempt to trim it, it will destroy it, so you just put it in and away you go.=C2- I am at 1/1 in th e center of the band and about 1.3 / 1 at the edges with it.=C2- If you w ant to spend the money, the AAE antenna is a great choice.=C2- I also use d one of theirs for my transponder.=C2- It is a flat tape, about 1.5 inch es wide and glues to the stern post beautifully.=C2- It has a built in ba lun, so all you do is=C2-attach your coaxial cable and glue it in.=C2- No tuning or trimming.=C2- =C2- Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:40:16 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning Bill, Jim, Out of interest what kind of length did you both end up with?? Dave =C2- Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 13:18:44 +0000 From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning David- =C2- I think you have been trimming your copper tape in millimeters.=C2- I did a couple of calculations this morning and you change resonant frequency is about .38 inches (around 10 mm) per mhz.=C2- So--if you have been trimmi ng your foil at 2 mm per check, you would need to trim it 5 times to move i t 1 mhz.=C2- If you do your graph, you should be able to calculate very c losely how you need to trim it and do it with a single cut. =C2- Jim Puglise A-283 =C2- ----- Original Message ----- From: "david park" <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:30:11 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning Bill, Thanks for the offer but I am in South Manchester, nr airport!. But I may r ing you when I am next in the garage. Originally with the length at 490mm a s per=C2-drawing the best SWR was at 133.00. I shrortened it down to 480m m but could not get best SWR mid frequency range.=C2-I have temporarly ex tended the antenna to try again. Regards Dave=C2- > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Antenna tuning > From: Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk > Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 03:21:15 -0700 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > co.uk> > > David, > > If you are anywhere near me (Aylesbury, so must be closer than Ferg!)) I' m happy to turn out and provide some hands-on help if you think that would be useful. I suffer from the delusion that I know a little about antennas ( antennae?) and I have a couple of suitable SWR meters and some practical ex perience messing about with this sort of antenna. Please give me a call on 01296 689165 if you think that would be any use or you just want some telep hone advice. > > Regards > > Bill > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292045#292045 > > > > > >============== > > > arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.ma tronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution >http://www.matroni ======== == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Finnish people
Date: Mar 29, 2010
Finnish peopleThanks Ferg, all the Finnish people make a low bow to you. Raimo ----- Original Message ----- From: Fergus Kyle To: 5EUROPALIST Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 4:33 PM Subject: Europa-List: Finnish people Quote, "There are many Finnish people... Raimo" Not nearly enough in my opinion, remembering the Mannerheim Line. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
From: "Bill & Sue" <Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Date: Mar 29, 2010
Dave, I'm afraid I can't help much with the length either as I haven't put the antenna in our our Europa yet ( I should be filling right now!) and anyway I ignored the Europa design (not that there is anything wrong with it) and made an aerial of my own design for fun -it came out well, but won't help in sizing your antenna. I agree with Jim, the length quoted sounds a bit short- I would have expected about 55cm per leg, less a bit for the dielectric effects of mounting it on fibreglass. So maybe the final length in the book is about right, but I would be inclined to start a bit longer and cut to size. The suggestion of drawing a graph is a good one to allow you to visualise where you are starting from. One piece of reassurance- you can mess with the length all you like and it is very hard indeed to damage anything (a bit like fibreglass you can stick another bit on and have second crack at cutting it to size!) and, although it is nice to get it just so, small errors in the end result are likely to be unnoticeable in practice. PS Hi Jim, we met in NZ but I didn't realise you were a Ham too- small world! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292181#292181 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stage 1 Parts For offer
From: "flying farmer" <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Mar 29, 2010
All Interested Some has asked for the size of the Torque Tube. The Tube measures 38mm OD, The Sleeves (TP5, TP6) Measure 41.25mm OD the brass Bush (TP11) measures 40.75mm ID Ebay also listed my Items incorrectly so I have had to re list them here http://shop.ebay.co.uk/g-irpw/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292234#292234 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: re: Antenna Tuning
Date: Mar 29, 2010
Cheers, I might mention something while tuning an antenna which might make some difference. Normally an antenna up and clear will reflect the qualities desired. But at our freqs, it=92s important to ensure that nothing resembling a nearby freq exists within about a =BD to 5/8 wavelength ( a bit less) ' say 300/127 m or something less than 1.5m. All this depends on orientation etc, so if a UHF or higher ferq is off the end of your tailplane dipole, not much loss of a spherical power plot. BUT if you insert a =BC-wave vertical in the plane of the diploe within a meter or so, expect the pattern of the latter=92s power plot to be skewed and it won=92t radiate spherically ' that is pieces of the pattern will be missing power (maybe straight ahead and you have to turn the a/c 30 degrees to get the tower ahead to pay attention). High is assumed but clear is also needed. Nuff sed. ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel dripping from airbox 914 ?
On 03/26/2010 05:51 PM, Bob Borger wrote: > Off the top of my head, I'd guess a sticky float or restriction in the fuel return line. It appeared to be a sticky float or valve. I took the carb out, cleaned it although I couldn't find anything serious that could have clogged the valve or float, just some residu left from evaporated fuel. Apparently that did it, no more fuel overflow, and the engine, after rebalancing the carbs, ran fine. My previous problem after a long pause, oil seeping into the turbo housing to be blown out at the first start, was this time almost non existent. Just a little bit of oil was collected in 4 months, far less than previous winter stop. I guess it was indeed a seal that needed to "settle". So, first flight can be performed any time now, as soon as weather and testpilots cooperate. ;-) Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Antenna tuning
On 03/26/2010 10:43 PM, david park wrote: > I have just borrowed an SWR meter and am trying to tune my Comm > antenna. The manual says to tune by shortening until minimum reading at > 127.50 Well, somewhat contrary to what others tell you, I wouldn't make a big deal out of it. You just need to verify that the SWR is no higher than 2.5 anywhere in the frequency spectrum you intent to use. No need to make a graph in my opinion, just dial through the band, transmit on every 100kHz to verify that the SWR is acceptable. HAM's usually strive to perfection, but you aren't going to moon-bounce, DX, trying to reach the other end of the world with 1 milliwatt, or working with satellites. You have 10 Watts or so to spoil, have a very short cable in comparison to HAM-stations, are transmitting from a height HAM's usually can only dream upon, and without obstacles in your transmission path. You won't notice any SWR improvement from 1:2.5 to 1:1, even with a lossy cable. Just relax. BTW, I'm a HAM myself. The real challenge in airplanes is to keep the interference between avionics and your signal as minimal as possible, so spend your time on that, rather than chasing the perfect SWR. Just my 2 cents. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel dripping from airbox 914 ?
Frans, Great! Now lay in some aspirin to take care of the sore muscles in your face from the grin you are about to develop. Wishing you light breezes and severe clear. Have a great first flight. Bob Borger On Monday, March 29, 2010, at 04:28PM, "Frans Veldman" wrote: > >On 03/26/2010 05:51 PM, Bob Borger wrote: > >> Off the top of my head, I'd guess a sticky float or restriction in the fuel return line. > >It appeared to be a sticky float or valve. I took the carb out, cleaned >it although I couldn't find anything serious that could have clogged the >valve or float, just some residu left from evaporated fuel. Apparently >that did it, no more fuel overflow, and the engine, after rebalancing >the carbs, ran fine. > >My previous problem after a long pause, oil seeping into the turbo >housing to be blown out at the first start, was this time almost non >existent. Just a little bit of oil was collected in 4 months, far less >than previous winter stop. I guess it was indeed a seal that needed to >"settle". > >So, first flight can be performed any time now, as soon as weather and >testpilots cooperate. ;-) > >Frans > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: re: Antenna Tuning
Date: Mar 30, 2010
Sorry, the formula didn't erase - please ignore 300/127m Tnx Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au>
Subject: MONOlogue
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Dear Mono Fraternity I have struck upon an idea which I thought might interest other Mono believers. The revelation that my flaps no longer retracted as nicely once the outrigger legs were installed caused me some angst and disappointment to the extent that I investigated more closely the geometry of the outrigger mechanism. Whilst adjusting the flaps to go home more firmly yielded a slight improvement, I found the outriggers still wanted to hang down slightly. My calculations revealed (subsequently confirmed with a spring balance) that the force exerted by the flaps through the push rod OR5 to hold an outrigger fully up (horizontally) is in the order of 18kg (40 lbs). I found that this amount of force causes spring in the train from the flap drive pin to the outrigger mechanism significant enough to cause the outrigger to sag somewhat from the fully up position. By fully up, I mean the nylon leg touching the bottom of the flap hinge. My solution has been to install a small gas strut as depicted in the attached photos. If you haven't witnessed how much better the operation of the outriggers are with this set-up, you would probably find it hard to believe the difference it makes to the whole operation of the flaps and outriggers. Expected advantage achieved:- Only that the outrigger leg would be fully supported by the gas strut when the leg is up (no force required by the flap at all) Unexpected advantages achieved:- When the wing is removed, because the outrigger is held up by the gas strut, the flap does not want to fall down and is in fact quite positively held up. Have you never removed a wing and had the flap fall down? When the outrigger leg extends, the gas strut goes slightly over centre and to a small degree assists the leg to lock down. The force required to extend or retract the outrigger leg seems to be about the same in both directions. It needs a slight force to start it on its way down and likewise, a small force to start it on its way up again. Disadvantage:- The only one I can see is the extra weight of the two gas struts which I am prepared to wear. The only caveat is that I have not flight tested it yet unfortunately but I have a high degree of confidence it will be every bit as good as the standard set-up if not better. One thing that will be better for sure is that the outriggers will not hang down resembling a lame duck! Cheers Kingsley in Oz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: Glenn Rainey <nimbusaviation(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: touring in Greece
Recently someone here in the group was asking about touring in Greece? I see a brave compatriot is _very_ shortly to transit that country by gyro', on his way, um, Around. Perhaps he could be contacted by email in due course for the skinny on his experiences there, by anyone planning to visit Greece in a Permit aircraft. One would expect his flying machine to attract the natives, perhaps the folks wearing hats. Norman Surplus tracking http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0M3Zb2VvSqGOOKr8faf6ltSR80lVr0C4h also at ... http://www.gyroxgoesglobal.com/ I'm not planning this trip myself, other than by KLM shortly... less burocracy ..... :-) cheers, Glenn Rainey Classic monowheel G-OJHL Cumbernauld, Scotland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: MONOlogue
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Does your speek kit! still fit over it? Dave > From: hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: MONOlogue > Date: Wed=2C 31 Mar 2010 19:24:08 +1000 > > Dear Mono Fraternity > > I have struck upon an idea which I thought might interest other Mono > believers. > > The revelation that my flaps no longer retracted as nicely once the > outrigger legs were installed caused me some angst and disappointment to the > extent that I investigated more closely the geometry of the outrigger > mechanism. Whilst adjusting the flaps to go home more firmly yielded > a slight improvement=2C I found the outriggers still wanted to hang down > slightly. > > My calculations revealed (subsequently confirmed with a spring balance) > that the force exerted by the flaps through the push rod OR5 to hold an > outrigger fully up (horizontally) is in the order of 18kg (40 lbs). > I found that this amount of force causes spring in the train from the fla p > drive pin to the outrigger mechanism significant enough to cause the > outrigger to sag somewhat from the fully up position. By fully up=2C I me an > the nylon leg touching the bottom of the flap hinge. > > My solution has been to install a small gas strut as depicted in the > attached photos. > > If you haven't witnessed how much better the operation of the outriggers are > with this set-up=2C you would probably find it hard to believe the differ ence > it makes to the whole operation of the flaps and outriggers. > > Expected advantage achieved:- > > Only that the outrigger leg would be fully supported by the gas strut whe n > the leg is up (no force required by the flap at all) > > Unexpected advantages achieved:- > > When the wing is removed=2C because the outrigger is held up by the gas > strut=2C the flap does not want to fall down and is in fact quite positiv ely > held up. Have you never removed a wing and had the flap fall down? > > When the outrigger leg extends=2C the gas strut goes slightly over centre > and to a small degree assists the leg to lock down. > > The force required to extend or retract the outrigger leg seems to be > about the same in both directions. It needs a slight force to start it on > its way down and likewise=2C a small force to start it on its way up agai n. > > Disadvantage:- > > The only one I can see is the extra weight of the two gas struts > which I am prepared to wear. > > > The only caveat is that I have not flight tested it yet unfortunately > but I have a high degree of confidence it will be every bit as good as th e > standard set-up if not better. One thing that will be better for sure is > that the outriggers will not hang down resembling a lame duck! > > Cheers > Kingsley in Oz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
From: Robert Hatton <roberthatton1(at)googlemail.com>
Hello Fred, I know this is an old thread, but did you go with these wheels and if so, what did you think? I am about to replace mine and I too am looking for a better outrigger wheel. Rob A128 On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 7:56 PM, Fred Klein wrote: > Guys...I've been looking into substitutes for the kit-provided outrigger > wheel, and thought I'd found the answer with a Colson Performa wheel whic h > comes w/ sealed ball bearings. After Kingsley acquainted me w/ the > distinction between "sealed ball bearings" and "maintenance-free precisio n > ball bearings" I found the following in the McMaster catalogue (I hope th e > text and graphics gets thru the matronics server). This "Easy-Roll > Rubber-Tread Wheel" (McMaster part # 2439T42) which comes with "maintenan ce-free > precision ball bearings" has a ridiculous low price of $7.81. I've querie d > McMaster, and they confirm that yes, it does come w/ these bearings. I'm > wondering if anyone has tried them and can comment on their performance. > > Or...has anyone found the ultimate outrigger wheel? > > Fred > A194 > > Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheels > 3 1/2" to 6" Dia. > 8" to 10" Dia. > > - Blue rubber on nylon core > - Durometer is 70A > - Temperature range is -40=B0 to +200=B0 F > > Resilient rubber tread rebounds quickly, so you can roll and turn > easily on most surfaces. The maintenance-free precision ball bearings > require minimal effort to get these wheels rolling. > *Wheel Size,* *For Axle* *Hub* *Cap. Ea.,* *Dia. x Wd.* *Dia.* *Lg. * > *lbs.* *Each* 3 1/2" x 1 1/4" 3/8" 1 5/8" 225 2439T41 $7.10 4" x 1 1/ 4 > " 3/8" 1 5/8" 250 2439T42 7.81 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Mar 31, 2010
On Mar 31, 2010, at 11:51 AM, Robert Hatton wrote: > I know this is an old thread, but did you go with these wheels and > if so, what did you think? Rob, No I did not...as w/ so many aspects of our passion, there is a whole world, if not a universe, to be explored w/ respect to wheels and bearings, in particular the distinction between bearing types (seems there are varying grades of "precision"). I ended up with the following, purchased online at www.skates.com: 2 - 100 mm inline skate wheels w/ ABEC 5 bearings (installed); these wheels, weighing 0.6 pounds each, somewhat harder (82 durometer) than the Colson wheels (65 durometer) but resilient nonetheless, are fine silent spinners, noticeably quieter, and much easier to spin up, much longer running than wheels w/ non-precision bearings. 4 - ABEC 9 bearings which can be substituted for the ABEC 5s...the best bearings I could find short of going to ceramics. 8 - aluminum 8 mm spacers...4 of each of two types...potentially useful when installing the wheels on the Europa forks...to center the wheels on the forks will require shortening of the spacers. A hint at how these bearings are removed and changed: Insert one of the spacers w/ the reducers on each end into the installed wheel bearing...gently "rock" the bearing from side to side...they will move outward from the wheel hub in small increments...work patiently, and they will then "pop out". This technique was recommended by the wheel sellers and I've found that it does in fact work, though patience is key. Enjoy, Fred PS: ZERO FLIGHT EXPERIENCE OR TESTING !! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
I'm on my second set of the Performa wheels, and I have nothing but good to say..=0A=0AI fly off paved runway's 99 % of the time, The bearings are nee dle bearings, they are full length in the hub. Much more robust than the wh eels with ball bearings on each side of the wheel...=0A=0AGrease the bearin g when you install the wheel, and they will be good to next annual.... The wheel will wear out before -the bearings do, on paved runways...=0A=0AJim Brown=0AMonowheel N398JB=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Robert Hatton <roberthatton1(at)googlemail.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matron ics.com=0ASent: Wed, March 31, 2010 2:51:28 PM=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: outrigger wheels=0A=0A=0AHello Fred,=0A=0AI know this is an old thread, but did you go with these wheels and if so, what did you think? I am about to replace mine and I too am looking for a better outrigger wheel.=0A=0ARob=0A A128=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 7:56 PM, Fred Klein wrote:=0A=0AGuys...I've been looking into substitutes for the kit-pr ovided outrigger wheel, and thought I'd found the answer with a Colson Perf orma wheel which comes w/ sealed ball bearings. After Kingsley acquainted m e w/ the distinction between "sealed ball bearings" and "maintenance-free p recision ball bearings" I found the following in the McMaster catalogue (I hope the text and graphics gets thru the matronics server). This "Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheel" (McMaster part # 2439T42) which comes with-"maintena nce-free precision ball bearings" has a ridiculous low price of $7.81. I've queried McMaster, and they confirm that yes, it does come w/ these bearing s. I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and can comment on their performa nce. =0A>=0A>=0A>Or...has anyone found the ultimate outrigger wheel?=0A>=0A >=0A>Fred=0A>A194=0A>=0A>=0A>Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheels =0A> =0A>3-1/2 " to 6" Dia. =0A>8" to 10" Dia. * Blue rubber on nylon core=0A>* Durometer is 70A=0A>* Temperature range is -40=B0 to +200=B0 F=0A>-- -Resilient rubber tread rebounds quickly, so you can roll and turn easily on most surfaces. The maintenance-free precision ball bearings require min imal effort to get these wheels rolling. =0A>Wheel-Size, For-Axle Hub C ap. Ea., - =0A>Dia.-x-Wd. Dia. Lg. lbs. Each =0A>3-1/2"-x-1- 1/4" -3/8" 1-5/8" 225 2439T41 $7.10 =0A>4"-x-1-1/4" -3/8" 1- 5/8" 250 2439T42 7.81 =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: MONOlogue
Mike=0Anot sure I agree re air loads, the flaps were designed so that lift reacts straight up the support through the pivot so there should be no forc e raising or lowering the flap. Certainly if the gear bungie is correctly a djusted you can put the flap anywhere in flight and it doesn't move. Sure t here might be some bias from the gear but flaps down I suspect air loads ar e balanced by the loads in the flap hangers and can't affect fore and aft m ovement of the flap? Comments?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________ ___________=0AFrom: Mike Parkin <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>=0ATo: eu ropa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 31 March, 2010 19:33:38=0ASubjec Parkin" =0A=0AKingsley,=0A=0AThe mod loo ks great. The one concern I would have is that quite a few monos=0Aare qui te late in the approach before the outriggers lock down, the effect=0Aof ai r loads I think. Your gas strut combined with the air loads .... , are=0Ay ou quite sure they will lock down in flight.=0A=0ARegards,=0A=0AMike=0A=0AD ====================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Jim...nuthin like an endorsement by someone who's had some real experience...thanks for your comment..I'll hang onto my set of Performa wheels...just in case. =46rom my armchair, I got to thinkin about those wheels...after ordering a set of Performas, by chance I happened to notice that it's the same wheel used on the carts at Costco, a use where robustness and maintenance (and cost) were doubtless considered. Still, the forward speed for those carts can't be more than 2 mph, and at the time I believe I figured that our outriggers were spin up to approx. 5000 rpm at TO and landing speeds if memory serves...a very different performance environment...that realization made me look further. I do know of two mono drivers who swear by their skate wheels...so there's doubtless more than one way to skin this cat... Fred A194 still a'buildin On Mar 31, 2010, at 1:42 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > I'm on my second set of the Performa wheels, and I have nothing but > good to say.. > > I fly off paved runway's 99 % of the time, The bearings are needle > bearings, they are full length in the hub. Much more robust than the > wheels with ball bearings on each side of the wheel... > > Grease the bearing when you install the wheel, and they will be good > to next annual.... The wheel will wear out before the bearings do, > on paved runways... > > Jim Brown > Monowheel N398JB > > From: Robert Hatton <roberthatton1(at)googlemail.com> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wed, March 31, 2010 2:51:28 PM > Subject: Re: Europa-List: outrigger wheels > > Hello Fred, > > I know this is an old thread, but did you go with these wheels and > if so, what did you think? I am about to replace mine and I too am > looking for a better outrigger wheel. > > Rob > A128 > > On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 7:56 PM, Fred Klein > wrote: > Guys...I've been looking into substitutes for the kit-provided > outrigger wheel, and thought I'd found the answer with a Colson > Performa wheel which comes w/ sealed ball bearings. After Kingsley > acquainted me w/ the distinction between "sealed ball bearings" and > "maintenance-free precision ball bearings" I found the following in > the McMaster catalogue (I hope the text and graphics gets thru the > matronics server). This "Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheel" (McMaster > part # 2439T42) which comes with "maintenance-free precision ball > bearings" has a ridiculous low price of $7.81. I've queried > McMaster, and they confirm that yes, it does come w/ these bearings. > I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and can comment on their > performance. > > Or...has anyone found the ultimate outrigger wheel? > > Fred > A194 > > Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheels > <2439tp1s.gif> > 3 1/2" to 6" Dia. > <2439tp2s.gif> > 8" to 10" Dia. > Blue rubber on nylon core > Durometer is 70A > Temperature range is -40=B0 to +200=B0 F > Resilient rubber tread rebounds quickly, so you can roll and turn > easily on most surfaces. The maintenance-free precision ball > bearings require minimal effort to get these wheels rolling. > Wheel Size, For Axle Hub Cap. Ea., > Dia. x Wd. Dia. Lg. lbs. Each > 3 1/2" x 1 1/4" 3/8" 1 5/8" 225 > 2439T41 $7.10 > 4" x 1 1/4" 3/8" 1 5/8" 250 > 2439T42 7.81 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au>
Subject: Re: MONOlogue
Date: Apr 01, 2010
> > > The mod looks great. The one concern I would have is that quite a few > monos > are quite late in the approach before the outriggers lock down, the effect > of air loads I think. Your gas strut combined with the air loads .... , > are > you quite sure they will lock down in flight. Hello Mike, Yes I agree some mono outriggers lock down late and I experienced one myself that locked down at 60 kts as we crossed the boundary fence. The reasons for locking late could be many and varied . . . . build variances, binding, wear and air loads come to mind. As I said, my idea has not been tested in the air (unless unbeknown to me somebody else has already tried it!) so I cannot make any guarantees but my static testing looks very promising. You will appreciate that the mechanical advantage supplied by the gas strut is at a maximum when it is needed most, i.e. with the leg fully up. As the leg goes down, the mechanical advantage diminishes until it is zero quite some time before the leg is latched. From this point on, the gas strut becomes overcentre and slightly assists the extension of the leg. IOW, with the flap disconnected, if I push the leg down with my finger on the top of it, the load progressively gets lighter on my finger until the leg suddenly leaves my finger and locks itself down. It is for this reason, I cannot see how it will be any worse than the original set-up and in fact, makes me believe that if anything, it should be slightly better on extension. Cheers Kingsley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)redzone.com.au>
Subject: Re: MONOlogue
Date: Apr 01, 2010
David Park wrote:- > Does your speek kit! still fit over it? Yes mine does David but I can't speak for the factory supplied speed kit as I have never seen one. Having said that, my outrigger fairing does limit just how far forward I can put the fixed end so the overcentre action is not quite as good as it could be. Cheers Kingsley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Apr 01, 2010
Do you guys have a part # for the wheels your speaking of? Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred Klein To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 10:44 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: outrigger wheels Jim...nuthin like an endorsement by someone who's had some real experience...thanks for your comment..I'll hang onto my set of Performa wheels...just in case. From my armchair, I got to thinkin about those wheels...after ordering a set of Performas, by chance I happened to notice that it's the same wheel used on the carts at Costco, a use where robustness and maintenance (and cost) were doubtless considered. Still, the forward speed for those carts can't be more than 2 mph, and at the time I believe I figured that our outriggers were spin up to approx. 5000 rpm at TO and landing speeds if memory serves...a very different performance environment...that realization made me look further. I do know of two mono drivers who swear by their skate wheels...so there's doubtless more than one way to skin this cat... Fred A194 still a'buildin On Mar 31, 2010, at 1:42 PM, Jim Brown wrote: I'm on my second set of the Performa wheels, and I have nothing but good to say.. I fly off paved runway's 99 % of the time, The bearings are needle bearings, they are full length in the hub. Much more robust than the wheels with ball bearings on each side of the wheel... Grease the bearing when you install the wheel, and they will be good to next annual.... The wheel will wear out before the bearings do, on paved runways... Jim Brown Monowheel N398JB ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: Robert Hatton <roberthatton1(at)googlemail.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wed, March 31, 2010 2:51:28 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: outrigger wheels Hello Fred, I know this is an old thread, but did you go with these wheels and if so, what did you think? I am about to replace mine and I too am looking for a better outrigger wheel. Rob A128 On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 7:56 PM, Fred Klein wrote: Guys...I've been looking into substitutes for the kit-provided outrigger wheel, and thought I'd found the answer with a Colson Performa wheel which comes w/ sealed ball bearings. After Kingsley acquainted me w/ the distinction between "sealed ball bearings" and "maintenance-free precision ball bearings" I found the following in the McMaster catalogue (I hope the text and graphics gets thru the matronics server). This "Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheel" (McMaster part # 2439T42) which comes with "maintenance-free precision ball bearings" has a ridiculous low price of $7.81. I've queried McMaster, and they confirm that yes, it does come w/ these bearings. I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and can comment on their performance. Or...has anyone found the ultimate outrigger wheel? Fred A194 Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheels <2439tp1s.gif> 3 1/2" to 6" Dia. <2439tp2s.gif> 8" to 10" Dia. a.. Blue rubber on nylon core b.. Durometer is 70A c.. Temperature range is -40=B0 to +200=B0 F Resilient rubber tread rebounds quickly, so you can roll and turn easily on most surfaces. The maintenance-free precision ball bearings require minimal effort to get these wheels rolling. Wheel Size, For Axle Hub Cap. Ea., Dia. x Wd. Dia. Lg. lbs. Each 3 1/2" x 1 1/4" 3/8" 1 5/8" 225 2439T41 $7.10 4" x 1 1/4" 3/8" 1 5/8" 250 2439T42 7.81 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Apr 01, 2010
On Apr 1, 2010, at 5:49 AM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote: > Do you guys have a part # for the wheels your speaking of? Hi Kevin, If you're askin bout the Performa wheel, go to mcmaster cat. pg 1347...there are different part #s for different bearing types. If you're askin bout the in-line skate wheels, I don't have a part # handy, but the specs of the wheels I purchased were listed in my first email yesterday. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject:
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hello - Pursuant to the following quote: " Guys...I've been looking into substitutes for the kit-provided outrigger wheel, and thought I'd found the answer with a Colson Performa wheel which comes w/ sealed ball bearings. After Kingsley acquainted me w/ the distinction between "sealed ball bearings" and "maintenance-free precision ball bearings" I found the following in the McMaster catalogue (I hope the text and graphics gets thru the matronics server). This "Easy-Roll Rubber-Tread Wheel" (McMaster part # 2439T42) which comes with "maintenance-free precision ball bearings" has a ridiculous low price of $7.81. I've queried McMaster, and they confirm that yes, it does come w/ these bearings. I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and can comment on their performance." I find the wheel of note to be on page 1348 and #2439T42 to be $8.20 - not niggling, just making sure...... I will have to ask someone to order for me as am obviously another one of those 11SEP Canadians attempting a outrigger coup. Ferg PS: all thanks for the info! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Subject: outrigger wheels
I am one of those mono guys that has been using the scooter wheel since day one on my Eruopa. Not realizing just how good these little wheel ar e I purchased several sets from the local sporting goods store thinking I was going be changing them out frequently. However, after seven years of flying I am still only on my second pair. These wheels are the 100m m diameter with abec 5 bearings. I don't know what the hardness of thes e are however, they seem to be soft. I made my own mouting hardware, ge tting rid of the Europa bracket. The wheels fit perfectly within the wi dth of the outrigger leg. The scooter wheels are significantly lighter, very durable, long lasting, and quite. The lighter weight may even hel p keep the outriggers from sagging. Regards, Erich Trombley N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ 2547% Penny Stock Picks? Our last pick exploded 2547% - Join our free newsletter today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4bb6070a21bce73806st05vuc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Outrigger wheels
Date: Apr 02, 2010
PPS: I forgot yo mention page 1304 of the catalogue gives some explanation for picking the proper wheels.... Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hi Ferg...thanks for the price update on those wheels!!...the $7.81 price was good back in Sept. '09. BTW, I don't know of anyone who has inspected or mounted that particular wheel. Although it's still reasonably priced, as I learned more about the world of precision bearings, there are multiple grades (ABEC ratings). If I recall correctly, these "Easy-Roll" wheels, although they do have "maintenance-free precision bearings", they have the lowest possible rating. I wouldn't imagine that parts ordered from www.skates.com would raise any eyebrows with the technology-transfer-police...see my email of 31 Mar 10. The wheels I ordered came w/ ABEC 5 bearings...for a few more bucks I also ordered some ABEC 9 bearings, but frankly, the wheels w/ the #5 bearings are wonderful silent spinners and I see Eric Trombley has had good experience with them. Cheers, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Subject: Re: Europa-List:
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 10:00 AM, Fergus Kyle wrote: > I find the wheel of note to be on page 1348 and #2439T42 to be > $8.20 ' not niggling, just making sure...... I will have to ask some one > to order for me as am obviously another one of those 11SEP Canadians > attempting a outrigger coup. > > Ferg > > Ferg, my god man, don't you realize that shopping trolly's are weapon of mass destruction ? Haven't you seen how much damage one of those things ca n do in the wrong hands ? Imagine what could happen if a shopping trolly got in the hands of the Taliban ? Those guys could take out a Humvee in the twinkling of an eye. Seriously though, I have been using Colston casters for years, and they las t a long time. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: outrigger wheels
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hi Ferg...thanks for the price update on those wheels!!...the $7.81 price was good back in Sept. '09. BTW, I don't know of anyone who has inspected or mounted that particular wheel. Although it's still reasonably priced, as I learned more about the world of precision bearings, there are multiple grades (ABEC ratings). If I recall correctly, these "Easy-Roll" wheels, although they do have "maintenance-free precision bearings", they have the lowest possible rating. I wouldn't imagine that parts ordered from www.skates.com would raise any eyebrows with the technology-transfer-police...see my email of 31 Mar 10. The wheels I ordered came w/ ABEC 5 bearings...for a few more bucks I also ordered some ABEC 9 bearings, but frankly, the wheels w/ the #5 bearings are wonderful silent spinners and I see Eric Trombley has had good experience with them. Cheers, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone?
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Pete, I've sold out this batch and it hasn't arrived yet. I don't think I could get a kit from Huntsman and make it in two weeks. Sorry, I'll see what I can do. Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Zutrauen<mailto:peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:21 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone? Hi Bud, Are you still looking for additional takers? If so, I may be interested in 1 quart if it could be shipped to the UPS store in Odgenburg NY within 2 weeks (as I have something else to pick up there). Many thanks, Pete On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Bud Yerly > wrote: US Europaphiles, Anyone in need of Redux? Two other builders and I each need a kit. Anyone else want to get in on it. Saves about $35 on hazardous fees per kit. A case ships for the same price as a quart. Last purchase price was about $270 with shipping/hazardous (think of the children)... Contact: Bud Yerly at budyerly(at)msn.com arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -- "A man is not old until his regrets take the place of his dreams. " http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2010
Subject: Re: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone?
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Hi bud, Sorry for the duplicate emails..... but I'm the same canuck you corresponded with last week. As I'm making my border pick-up this Monday, I'll pass on the redux till later in the summer. Thanks again! Pete A239 On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 9:50 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: > Pete, > I've sold out this batch and it hasn't arrived yet. I don't think I could > get a kit from Huntsman and make it in two weeks. > Sorry, > I'll see what I can do. > > Bud > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Peter Zutrauen > *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:21 PM > *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Redux/Epibond 420 purchase anyone? > > Hi Bud, > > Are you still looking for additional takers? If so, I may be interested in > 1 quart if it could be shipped to the UPS store in Odgenburg NY within 2 > weeks (as I have something else to pick up there). > > Many thanks, > Pete > > On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: > >> US Europaphiles, >> Anyone in need of Redux? >> Two other builders and I each need a kit. Anyone else want to get in on >> it. Saves about $35 on hazardous fees per kit. A case ships for the same >> price as a quart. >> >> Last purchase price was about $270 with shipping/hazardous (think of the >> children)... >> >> Contact: Bud Yerly at budyerly(at)msn.com >> >> * >> >> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> * >> >> > > > -- > "A man is not old until his regrets take the place of his dreams. " > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > * > > * > > -- "A man is not old until his regrets take the place of his dreams. " ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2010
From: William McClellan <wilwood(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Singleton tailwheel mod
I am finally getting to installing my Singleton tailwheel mod. The instructions I have, end before explaining the install of the pushrod connection and hardware into the rudder leading edge. Can anyone give me this section of the instructions. I understand it might be part of the Classic Manual which I do not have. Or maybe it is posted some where else. I emailed Graham directly and he is in France until the 17th without access to a sendable copy of his instructions. Thanks, Bill McClellan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 03, 2010
Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: a tad off topic
Date: Apr 03, 2010
...but a handy thing to throw into the baggage area of a Europa... http://www.yikebike.com/site/gallery/video/yikebike-discovery-channel ...let's hear it for the engineering talent down under! Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: a tad off topic
That looks like real talent and not just engineering! Nice one Fred=0AGraha m=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Fred Klein <fkl ein(at)orcasonline.com>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, 3 Ap ril, 2010 23:31:23=0ASubject: Europa-List: a tad off topic=0A=0A...but a ha ndy thing to throw into the baggage area of a Europa...=0A=0Ahttp://www.yik ebike.com/site/gallery/video/yikebike-discovery-channel=0A=0A...let's hear ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Troy=0Awell done, I remember meeting you all those years ago at SnF. Take i t steady and stay within your limits particularly weather ( I'm sure you wi ll)=0ADid you fit the wider tailwheel drive horn? Recommended as well as th e tighter spring tension=0AGraham=0Astill learning French, gotta learn some thing useful {;-)=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Troy Maynor =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent : Saturday, 3 April, 2010 22:43:27=0ASubject: Europa-List: Left the Nest To day=0A=0A =0A =0AHello Friends and Fellow Aviators,=0A =0A Today at 1145 ED T, at KAVL (Asheville, NC, =0AUSA), Europa N120EU broke the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's =0Amaiden voyage. Well, actually the vo yage was just orbiting the airport but she =0Adid so very well. I was amaze d at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. =0AI don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures =0Awere well wit h the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did =0Asome ma nuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into =0Athe s tall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder =0Atrim t ab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and =0Aba lance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) =0A But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about =0Athe weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I coul dn't =0Atake off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down =0Athe runway. =0AFor the records: It is kit number UK 120, w eighed =0Ain at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, =0Aplus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long la st. =0AI want to thank each and everyone that has =0Acontributed ideas, hel ped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on =0Aduring the lo ng journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that =0Astick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be =0A Grace...after my mom. See yall,=0A =0ATroy Maynor=0AEuropa Monowheel Classi c=0AFlying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Great news, Troy! You've got a week to fly off your forty so you can fly it to SNF... ;) Jeff - Baby Blue... On 4/3/2010 4:43 PM, Troy Maynor wrote: > Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, > surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, > actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very > well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I > don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and > pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 > minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left > wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just > mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, > and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down > trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went > well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from > earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds > were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. > For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax > 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm > slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. > I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped > solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long > journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick > around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be > Grace...after my mom. See yall, > Troy Maynor > Europa Monowheel Classic > Flying > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 03, 2010
Atta Boy Troy! Now the fun begins. What am awesome little plane... Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 2:43 PM Subject: Europa-List: Left the Nest Today Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Apr 03, 2010
Troy, CONGRATULATIONS on a job well done! Looking forward to seeing you at KOSH one of these days. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 http://www.biplaneforumgallery.com/index.php?cat=10046 Europa Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Apr 3, 2010, at 16:43, Troy Maynor wrote: > > Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, > bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. > For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. > I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, > > Troy Maynor > Europa Monowheel Classic > Flying > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 03, 2010
Troy, This is the best news. I know how hard you've worked, dreamed and planed. Just get use to flying her. Get comfortable under most conditions and we'll see ya soon. She looks great with air under her. Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Apr 3, 2010, at 4:43 PM, Troy Maynor wrote: > > Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, > > broke the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden > voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but > she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 > ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft > and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole > flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No > drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty > configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need > to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and > balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and > level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was > worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in > the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at > just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. > For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, > Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus > I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. > I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped > solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the > long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that > stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name > will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, > > Troy Maynor > Europa Monowheel Classic > Flying > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Left the Nest Today N120EU
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Hi! Troy. Well done ! All looks good then. ....except... (the folks that know me here will understand this but I couldn't let the chance slip me by !.) I have a healthy disregard for all things EU ! Best wishes for many safe hours of flying. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Subject: Left the Nest Today
Troy, Congratulations! I so happy that you got your bird in the air. It is a great feeling. Enjoy!!!!! Erich Trombley N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4bb8527744fe5d0a63st02vuc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
congratulations on completing the build and successful first flight, It only gets better from now on, I wish you many years of great flying, regards Ivor G-IVER ---- Troy Maynor wrote: > > Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, > bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. > For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. > I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, > > Troy Maynor > Europa Monowheel Classic > Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
> the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Congratulations! Looks like a fantastic airplane. ;-) Well done! BTW, I hope I will be next! Can be any day now. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk>
Subject: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Congratulations Troy, Even more special as you were able to do the first flight. I have updated the records. Welcome to the world of Europa Flyers. Best regards Brian Davies The Europa Club, membership sec. _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Troy Maynor Sent: 03 April 2010 22:43 Subject: Europa-List: Left the Nest Today Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Grass" <m.grass(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Troy, Congratulations, also Sunland Fun might be to aggressive but you might be able to trade in your car ride for an airplane ride to Rough River this year. ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: 2010-04-03 17:43 Subject: Europa-List: Left the Nest Today Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: a tad off topic
From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Pretty cool, I am from Auckland NZ and am planing to go to Christchurch and will try and visit where they are made. All the guys are out of Electrical Engineering Canterbury where once I walked the hallowed corridors. Will report another off-topic update when it transpires. Peter Armstrong Auckland, New Zealand PS Will also fit in the back of my DynAero MCR-4S, Europa folk now I have confessed please do not shoot me :) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292971#292971 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: a tad off topic
Date: Apr 04, 2010
On Apr 4, 2010, at 2:11 PM, pestar wrote: > Pretty cool, I am from Auckland NZ and am planing to go to > Christchurch > and will try and visit where they are made. All the guys are out of > Electrical > Engineering Canterbury where once I walked the hallowed corridors. Peter, What struck me about the Yikebike was what's possible in a society where engineering talent is not sucked into the maw of the military/ industrial complex...and gets focused on solving real societal problems... Here's to Kiwis...changing the world... Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2010
From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Troy=0A=0AHaving lived in Spruce Pine back in the 70's, Augustene and I kne w something good was going to happen in Western North Carolina...Soon.=0A =0AThen we saw the notice that you had "your first flight" !!!!!! Made our day....Your day in the sunshine is here... It just keeps getting better...A ll the hard work, weekend's-working on a pile of fiberglass. the doubt th at this thing is never going to be finished. Well that is now in the past.. =0A=0A"Grace is going to be calling every day, that its VFR, lets go flying ...You have taken on a powerful mistress which cannot be ignored.....=0A=0A HAVE FUN !!!!!!!!!!=0A=0AJim and Augustene=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0A=0A____________ ____________________=0AFrom: Troy Maynor <wingnut54(at)charter.net>=0ATo: euro pa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, April 3, 2010 5:43:27 PM=0ASubject: Euro pa-List: Left the Nest Today=0A=0A=0A=0AHello Friends and Fellow Aviators, broke the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so ver y well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I do n't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I d id some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing-drop deep i nto the stall-in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. -I need a rud der trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and leve l.) -But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried ab out the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I cou ldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost st raight down the runway. =0AFor the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in a t 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. =0AI want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems a nd encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respo nd so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yal l,=0A-=0ATroy Maynor=0AEuropa Monowheel Classic=0AFlying=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 05, 2010
Troy, Great news. Nice to see another Classic in the air. looks very gracious. Well done from New Zealand. Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street' Fendalton, Christchurch. NEW ZEALAND Ph. 64 3 3515166 Mob 021 0640221 Email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:43 AM Subject: Europa-List: Left the Nest Today Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Naca Vents
Date: Apr 05, 2010
A few weeks back someone was asking for the factory instructions for fitting the NACA ventilators. I looked at the time but didn't find my instructions where I thought they should be. However, looking for something else I have just come across them! The lower front corner of the ventilator should be on the Fuselage join line . The back vertical edge should be 6.25 ins/160mm in front of the front edge of the door. Could scan complete instructions to anyone still needing them> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: touring in Greece
Date: Apr 05, 2010
Glenn, It was probably me. I am still awaiting a reply from Greek CAA to a letter specially translated into Greek and sent a month ago. Getting permission to overfly foreign countries for round the world fliers is immensely difficult to do oneself, especially it seems when you get past Italy! Most of the fliers seem to resort to agents who will fix you permission for 200 a country (and the generally compulsory handling agents etc at extra cost) when I last asked. These companies presumably have standing arrangements with somebody in each country who takes part of the cash. I had planned my own trip to Australia (which unfortunately went on permanent hold when my son developed Motor Neurone Disease) but had got almost to the point of deciding that the hastle of trying to arrange permission oneself made it not worth going, and had been thinking about whether I really wanted to shell out several hundred pounds for every country on the way! I don't know whether his gyro is certified, but if so that could well make it a bit easier. The last time I considered flying to Russia, I got the answer that it was only allowed if you carried a Russian navigator in the plane, so if they haven't changed their tune that is going to provide an extra challenge for him. Incidentally he appears to have got across Greece alright and to be about to land in Alexandria. Regards, David Joyce ----- Original Message ----- > Recently someone here in the group was asking about touring in Greece? I see a brave compatriot is _very_ shortly to transit that country by gyro', on his way, um, Around. Perhaps he could be contacted by email in due course for the skinny on his experiences there, by anyone planning to visit Greece in a Permit aircraft. One would expect his flying machine to attract the natives, perhaps the folks wearing hats. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Boyle" <martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Europa Kit half done
Date: Apr 06, 2010
Hi I am in Australia and know of a Europa Mono Wheel that is as per the photo on the web site and is for sale at a reasonable price . I have listed the site below. Thanks Martin Boyle Reference: [001661-AEROCOF661] Hi Martin Thanks for your enquiry. We have quite a lot of info on the web regarding the project. Advertisment in our club E-magazine http://www.espinner.net/espinner_7/europa_project.htm Builders Details, builders log, Photos. http://www.geol.utas.edu.au/europa/ If you want any further technical information, please refer to Andrew Richardson, email Andrew.Richardson(at)polytechnic.tas.edu.au. The aircraft has been built rigorously and is in good condition. Basically it requires a finishing off job of engine, instruments, internal fittings and paint. It owes the club and syndicate many tens of thousands of dollars but we are serious about wanting to sell this project and will consider reasonable offers even though less than the price that was paid for the kit, and even not getting anything for the work that has been done. Please contact myself or Andrew if you wish to make an offer. Regards Graeme Martin President Aero Club of Southern Tasmania 03 62237615, 0414 635 047. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steade" <steade(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Naca Vents
Date: Apr 06, 2010
David I was the person requiring the info on the Naca vent position. I will contact you off list. Regards David Steade ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: John Cliff <johnfcliff(at)googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: Singleton tailwheel mod
William McClellan wrote: > > I am finally getting to installing my Singleton tailwheel mod. ..... Bill, difficult to get in touch with you when your mail account won't accept messages from non-accredited senders and the accreditation link the system sends in response doesn't work ..... If you still need Graham's mod instructions please contact me at europa(at)crix.org.uk John Cliff #0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: William McClellan <wilwood(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Singleton tailwheel mod
John, sorry about that, all new sender mail goes into a segregated folder. Don't know why the accreditation link didn't work. I just previously sent you and answer but maybe you did not get it. It was just thanking you for the information as I have gotten many offers with it. I am covered at this time, but thanks. Bill McClellan -----Original Message----- >From: John Cliff <johnfcliff(at)googlemail.com> >Sent: Apr 6, 2010 8:15 AM >To: europa-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Singleton tailwheel mod > > >William McClellan wrote: >> >> I am finally getting to installing my Singleton tailwheel mod. > ..... > >Bill, > >difficult to get in touch with you when your mail account won't accept >messages from non-accredited senders and the accreditation link the >system sends in response doesn't work ..... > >If you still need Graham's mod instructions please contact me at >europa(at)crix.org.uk > >John Cliff >#0259 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Naca Vents
Date: Apr 06, 2010
On Apr 6, 2010, at 10:36 AM, Bud Yerly wrote: > I still can't believe you cut the hole with a fly catcher hole saw > in the glass. Bud...What, pray tell, is a "fly catcher hole saw"? It must be quite handy... Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Naca Vents
Date: Apr 06, 2010
Fred, It is an adjustable hole saw type with a center drill and a single arm ( or more) with adjustable cutter attached. The single arm type is great for catching limbs and other loose objects and inflicting injury. It also has a nasty tendency for it to sling the work piece around unless everything is clamped well. The smaller ones with multiple blades of high quality work well. It takes patience, skill and proper prep to use one well. My first one was a cheap hardware store type and I learned you get what you pay for. I'll stick with bimetal metal cutting hole saws. I'm chicken. Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein(at)orcasonline.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 4:04 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Naca Vents On Apr 6, 2010, at 10:36 AM, Bud Yerly wrote: I still can't believe you cut the hole with a fly catcher hole saw in the glass. Bud...What, pray tell, is a "fly catcher hole saw"? It must be quite handy... Fred http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Apr 06, 2010
I have an aft mounted Odyssey PC545 on my 914 XS Monowheel. In order to make instrument module more user friendly to remove, it makes a lot of sense in my situation to run my negative #4 aluminium clad cable (.425" on diameter that is on the port side of fuse) along the top outboard side of the port footwell, then into engine compartment. Has anyone done this? Details would be greatly appreciated including how you sealed penetration. Thx. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293315#293315 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: DOTH Halfpenny Green Fri. 9th
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Hi Folks, It looks as though it has finally stopped raining, so how about a DOTH on Friday?. Halfpenny Green is always a good bet, with lots of runways and a good cafe, so I suggest there. Voucher in Flyer - 1200ish All the best, Paddy Paddy Clarke Europa G-KIMM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Ron, I haven't done it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232 http://www.biplaneforumgallery.com/index.php?cat=10046 Europa Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Apr 7, 2010, at 0:19, rparigoris wrote: > > I have an aft mounted Odyssey PC545 on my 914 XS Monowheel. In order to make instrument module more user friendly to remove, it makes a lot of sense in my situation to run my negative #4 aluminium clad cable (.425" on diameter that is on the port side of fuse) along the top outboard side of the port footwell, then into engine compartment. > Has anyone done this? > Details would be greatly appreciated including how you sealed penetration. > Thx. > Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Fw: Homebuilt flying in Greece
Date: Apr 07, 2010
I have just received the following info from Greece. They require validation of Permits but at least there are clear instructions of what is needed and where to send it to. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stamou Sothrakhs - HCAA - D2A" <stamou(at)hcaa.gr> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 11:00 AM Subject: Homebuilt flying in Greece Dear Sir, concerning your intention to fly your homebuilt aircraft in Greece I would like to inform you that you need to validate your "Permit to Fly". It means you shall to submit to our Authority: 1. Certificate of Registration 2. Permit to Fly with Operational limitations (if any) 3. Insurance certificate You can submit the above by FAX or e-mail. Sotirakis Stamou Airworthiness Inspector Hellenic CAA Tel: + 30 210 99 73 013 FAX: + 30 210 99 73 060 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk>
Subject: Europa Club Update
Date: Apr 07, 2010
There is an update on the club website regarding the AGM and the seminar planned for 24/25 April. Please go to http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ Regards Brian Davies The Europa Club, membership sec. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: DOTH Halfpenny Green Fri. 9th
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Sorry Paddy - off to Sun'n'Fun tomorrow. Are you heading out at all? Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paddy Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:54 AM Subject: Europa-List: DOTH Halfpenny Green Fri. 9th > > Hi Folks, > It looks as though it has finally stopped raining, so how about a DOTH on > Friday?. Halfpenny Green is always a good bet, with lots of runways and a > good cafe, so I suggest there. > Voucher in Flyer - 1200ish > All the best, Paddy > Paddy Clarke > Europa G-KIMM > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:32:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Ron, I always run the power and ground from the battery, under the door sill, then through the panel via 5/16 brass studs for firewall interface. Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigoris<mailto:rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:19 AM Subject: Europa-List: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell? > I have an aft mounted Odyssey PC545 on my 914 XS Monowheel. In order to make instrument module more user friendly to remove, it makes a lot of sense in my situation to run my negative #4 aluminium clad cable (.425" on diameter that is on the port side of fuse) along the top outboard side of the port footwell, then into engine compartment. Has anyone done this? Details would be greatly appreciated including how you sealed penetration. Thx. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293315#293315 .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293315#293315> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Subject: Re: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Bud Thx. for the reply. "I always run the power and ground from the battery, under the door sill, then through the panel via 5/16 brass studs for firewall interface." Do you just drill a 5/16" hole through firewall and sandwich terminals going to fat wires on top of firewall? At least put wide area washers on top of firewall? Or? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Exactly right. Use large brass washers or stainless against the fiberglass, then nuts on both sides, then the terminal(s), lock washers and plain brass nuts if you like or star washers to assure the nuts are tight. Cover with a rubber ducky. Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us<mailto:rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> To: Europa Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 2:06 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell? Hi Bud Thx. for the reply. "I always run the power and ground from the battery, under the door sill, then through the panel via 5/16 brass studs for firewall interface." Do you just drill a 5/16" hole through firewall and sandwich terminals going to fat wires on top of firewall? At least put wide area washers on top of firewall? Or? Ron Parigoris http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today N120EU
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Date: Apr 07, 2010
I totally agree with you; the part about the EU...I wished a thousand times I had picked another reg. no. Not necessarily because of the EU, but because it has nine sylables and is tongue twister when talking to ATC. Thanks. Troy Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293423#293423 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Has anyone run aft battery cables through footwell?
Agree, =0ANote that the extra nuts are important so that connection doesn't loosen as the fiberglass relaxes under =0Apressure, which it will.=0AGraham =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bud Yerly <budyrly@ msn.com>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 7 April, 2010 2 0:16:53=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Has anyone run aft battery cables throu gh footwell?=0A=0A =0AExactly right. Use large brass washers or stai nless against the =0Afiberglass, then nuts on both sides, then the terminal (s), lock washers and =0Aplain brass nuts if you like or star washers to as sure the nuts are tight. =0ACover with a rubber ducky.=0A =0ABud=0A----- O riginal Message ----- =0A>From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us =0A>To: Europa =0A>Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 2:06 =0A> PM=0A>Subject: Re: Europa-Li st: Has anyone run =0A> aft battery cables through footwell?=0A>=0A>Hi Bud =0A>Thx. for the reply.=0A>"I always run the power and =0A> ground from th e battery, under the door sill, then through the panel via 5/16 =0A> brass studs for firewall interface." =0A>Do you just drill a 5/16" hole =0A> th rough firewall and sandwich terminals going to fat wires on top of firewall ? =0A> At least put wide area washers on top of firewall? Or?=0A>Ron Parig oris=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List" >http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matron ics.com=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matron ==================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Hi All, My electronic problem is continuing to elude me. Thats not saying much since I have never wired anything except a room or two on some houses over the years. With that said I have been having trouble keeping my battery charged over the past 4 or 5 months. Gold Rush has 220 delightful hours on her, but lately she's just not charging the battery, or maybe I have a drain somewhere that wasn't there before. I have replaced the regulator, and the big blue capacitor. After charging the battery today I went out and bought a new voltage meeter. I checked the battery 1st to be at 12.5 volts, I checked the 30 amp fuzes and they are good. Last week I did find a loose ground and fixed it but to no avail. Today I check the output of both alternator wires as they we're connected at the GG connections to the regulator and they we're reading - 6.5. when connected. When disconnected from the regulator they didn't have a reading at all. Is that normal? I also checked the +B output to see if it was sending a charge and it read only .53 volts. If any of you have advise to this non understanding electronics guy that would like to be flying charged to safely get to sun-n-fun let me know. Thanks In Advance!! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/08/2010 05:21 AM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > > battery today I went out and bought a new voltage meeter. I checked the > battery 1st to be at 12.5 volts, I checked the 30 amp fuzes and they are > good. Last week I did find a loose ground and fixed it but to no avail. > Today I check the output of both alternator wires as they we're > connected at the GG connections to the regulator and they we're reading > - 6.5. when connected. The wires from the alternator carry alternating current, so your voltage meter has to be set to AC. What is the battery voltage when the engine is running? You can also disconnect the regulator from the battery, BUT KEEP THE CAPACITOR CONNECTED TO THE REGULATOR! and run the engine (preferably with all avionics switched off) and measure the voltage across the capacitor. Voltage for the standard Rotax regulator should be appr. 13.7 Volts. Let me know how this works out so we have a starting point. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today N120EU
Troy=0A=0AYou can change the "N " number..You have to give up current # and then choose the next number you want....It will take a little time but it can be done......=0A=0AJim Brown=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________ ____=0AFrom: Troy Maynor <wingnut54(at)charter.net>=0ATo: europa-list@matronic s.com=0ASent: Wed, April 7, 2010 6:49:42 PM=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: Lef r" =0A=0AI totally agree with you; the part about th e EU...I wished a thousand times I had picked another reg. no.- Not neces sarily because of the EU, but because it has nine sylables and is tongue tw ister when talking to ATC. =0AThanks.=0ATroy=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293423#2934 =========================0A ======================0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Hi Troy, Congratulations!! Happy to see you in the air. Jim & Heather Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293474#293474 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today N120EU
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Date: Apr 08, 2010
And how do you go about that? Couldn't find anything on the FAA Registration area. Troy Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293477#293477 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Jeff, Let me pile on... Jim Brown and I have just gone through this. Frans is right on. The GG connections are AC. First confirm the voltage regulator is charging the battery. At 3000 RPM your ammeter should be near zero for a fully charged battery, and voltage should be 13.5-13.8 volts. If it is not, it is the stator or regulator. Regulator: Check the light circuit. Light on with engine off? It is supposed to be OK...Wrong, trust no light only. Check B+ again, with the alternator C and B connected it should be battery voltage, C is often put on an alternator switch, so check that the switch provides battery voltage. Check AC voltage from stator yellow leads. (see heavy mx manual 13.4.7). The regulator is a solid state device and does fail. $190 from Rotax. I used to keep a spare, but too expensive now. Stator: Check the resistance values of the stator yellow leads per the heavy maintenance manual. You need a good Volt/Ohm meter for this. If there is a short, then replacement of the stator is necessary. I have repaired them before, and a year later, I had to go in again and replace it. Yours is a fairly new engine, so you should not have a defective stator like I had. $1200 from Rotax. Enjoy your troubleshooting, Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations. ----- Original Message ----- From: JEFF ROBERTS<mailto:Jeff(at)rmmm.net> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:21 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Electronic Mind Needed > Hi All, My electronic problem is continuing to elude me. Thats not saying much since I have never wired anything except a room or two on some houses over the years. With that said I have been having trouble keeping my battery charged over the past 4 or 5 months. Gold Rush has 220 delightful hours on her, but lately she's just not charging the battery, or maybe I have a drain somewhere that wasn't there before. I have replaced the regulator, and the big blue capacitor. After charging the battery today I went out and bought a new voltage meeter. I checked the battery 1st to be at 12.5 volts, I checked the 30 amp fuzes and they are good. Last week I did find a loose ground and fixed it but to no avail. Today I check the output of both alternator wires as they we're connected at the GG connections to the regulator and they we're reading - 6.5. when connected. When disconnected from the regulator they didn't have a reading at all. Is that normal? I also checked the +B output to see if it was sending a charge and it read only .53 volts. If any of you have advise to this non understanding electronics guy that would like to be flying charged to safely get to sun-n-fun let me know. Thanks In Advance!! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Thanks Bud, Frans & all As soon as my work day ends I'm on this. I'll keep ya posted. Thanks!!!! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Apr 8, 2010, at 9:57 AM, Bud Yerly wrote: > Jeff, > Let me pile on... Jim Brown and I have just gone through this. > Frans is right on. The GG connections are AC. > First confirm the voltage regulator is charging the battery. At > 3000 RPM your ammeter should be near zero for a fully charged > battery, and voltage should be 13.5-13.8 volts. If it is not, it is > the stator or regulator. > Regulator: Check the light circuit. Light on with engine off? It > is supposed to be OK...Wrong, trust no light only. > Check B+ again, with the alternator C and B connected it should be > battery voltage, C is often put on an alternator switch, so check > that the switch provides battery voltage. > Check AC voltage from stator yellow leads. (see heavy mx manual > 13.4.7). > The regulator is a solid state device and does fail. $190 from > Rotax. I used to keep a spare, but too expensive now. > > Stator: > Check the resistance values of the stator yellow leads per the heavy > maintenance manual. You need a good Volt/Ohm meter for this. > If there is a short, then replacement of the stator is necessary. I > have repaired them before, and a year later, I had to go in again > and replace it. Yours is a fairly new engine, so you should not > have a defective stator like I had. $1200 from Rotax. > > Enjoy your troubleshooting, > > Bud Yerly > Custom Flight Creations. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: JEFF ROBERTS > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:21 PM > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Electronic Mind Needed > > > Hi All, > My electronic problem is continuing to elude me. Thats not saying much > since I have never wired anything except a room or two on some houses > over the years. With that said I have been having trouble keeping my > battery charged over the past 4 or 5 months. Gold Rush has 220 > delightful hours on her, but lately she's just not charging the > battery, or maybe I have a drain somewhere that wasn't there before. I > have replaced the regulator, and the big blue capacitor. After > charging the battery today I went out and bought a new voltage meeter. > I checked the battery 1st to be at 12.5 volts, I checked the 30 amp > fuzes and they are good. Last week I did find a loose ground and fixed > it but to no avail. Today I check the output of both alternator wires > as they we're connected at the GG connections to the regulator and > they we're reading - 6.5. when connected. When disconnected from the > regulator they didn't have a reading at all. Is that normal? > I also checked the +B output to see if it was sending a charge and it > read only .53 volts. > If any of you have advise to this non understanding electronics guy > that would like to be flying charged to safely get to sun-n-fun let me > know. > > Thanks In Advance!! > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold p; Features Chat, http:// > www.matronnbsp; via the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/ > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > _p; generous bsp; title=http:// > www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ">http://www.matronics.com/c================ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Jeff, With everything in your aircraft turned off, place an ammeter in series with the battery. It should read zero, if it doesn't then you need to start looking for something discharging it. Another (less likely) scenario is that the battery has an internal fault and is self discharging. I have a couple of thoughts on how to check this, none of them simple so let me think on it a bit more. Question, have you taken it down to somewhere like Batteries Plus and had load test. The battery will need to be fully charged first. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 3 comments
Date: Apr 08, 2010
From: "David Corbett" <DCorbett(at)corbettfarms.co.uk>
1 Well done, David Joyce, for persevering so long with the Greek CAA - and for your success. 2 I have my battery mounted aft of the luggage bay. I glassed in a 1" braided strip as the negative - this runs inside the fuselage joint on the starboard side. The positive runs though the wheelwell, and is strapped to the starboard side, passing just under the brake unit and thence straight forward. This has been successful. My battery, a Hawker ( but I cannot remember the size as I write) was new in 2000, and started flying early in 2001 - and still appears to be as good as new. But what will happen now that I have written that?! 3 Paddy - I hope to see you at Halfpenny Green 12 ish tomorrow - first DOTH of the season for me. David G-BZAM - about 580 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
From: William McClellan <wilwood(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Mod 67 and Factory
I am wanting to do Mod 67, cockpit width increase, but haven't been able to get any response back from the factory. Anyone know what is going on with the factory not responding? Really the only parts I need are the moldings, F35P, F35S, F36P and F36S, and I could complete the mod. I have already done the alteration to the door shoot bolt push arm. Thanks, Bill McClellan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
From: Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Mod 67 and Factory
William, Are you in the UK? I have the door molding If you want-them for =A320 each.=0A-=0A================== ===0A=0AThank You=0ARichard Wheelwright=0A=0A======== =============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________ ________=0AFrom: William McClellan <wilwood(at)earthlink.net>=0ATo: "Europa-Li st(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Thu, 8 April, 2010 19 :28:43=0ASubject: Europa-List: Mod 67 and Factory=0A=0A--> Europa-List mess age posted by: William McClellan =0A=0AI am wanting to do Mod 67, cockpit width increase, but haven't been able to get any resp onse back from the factory.- Anyone know what is going on with the factor y not responding?- Really the only parts I need are the moldings, F35P, F 35S, F36P and F36S, and I could complete the mod.- I have already done th e alteration to the door shoot bolt push arm.- =0AThanks,=0ABill McClella ===============0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 08, 2010
On Apr 8, 2010, at 11:51 AM, Paul McAllister wrote: > Jeff, > > With everything in your aircraft turned off, place an ammeter in > series with the battery. It should read zero, if it doesn't then > you need to start looking for something discharging it. I put that on my to do test tonight. Thanks > > Another (less likely) scenario is that the battery has an internal > fault and is self discharging. I have a couple of thoughts on how to > check this, none of them simple so let me think on it a bit more. > > Question, have you taken it down to somewhere like Batteries Plus > and had load test. The battery will need to be fully charged first. No but thats a good idea after I try the other test. Just to busy today to work on it. Maybe tonight. Thanks Paul! > > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Subject: What temperature is pheonelic firewall good for?
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Curiosity question, what is the max. temperaturepheonelic firewall isgood for? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 08, 2010
>... >What is the battery voltage when the engine is running? >You can also disconnect the regulator from the battery, BUT KEEP THE CAPACITOR CONNECTED TO THE REGULATOR! and run the engine (preferably with all avionics switched off) and measure the voltage across the capacitor. >Voltage for the standard Rotax regulator should be appr. 13.7 Volts. >Let me know how this works out so we have a starting point. >Frans Jeff, These are good points from Frans. Just an additional comment. IF this is a shunt regulator (I think it is), it regulates by shorting out the alternator phase(s) to ground, once the voltage starts to go higher than its internal setpoint (lets say somewhere around....14-15 volts or so, at the regulator). If there is no load to the alternator such as accessories and a battery, the regulator has to soak up ALL of the excess power from the alternator. At high engine speeds, this can become very significant. Without cooling, it can be very hard on the regulator. I suggest that if you test (yes, DEFINITELY with the capacitor) without the battery hooked up, try not to run the engine too high in rpm for too long so as not to risk damaging the regulator. IMHO, test with battery in circuit if possible, unless the battery itself is suspected. A charge voltage between 13 and 14 Volts I consider good, and 13.8 ideal. Anything over 12.7 is charging the battery (for lead acid technology). Your battery tested at 12.5. That means its about 84% charged, assuming it is newer and in good shape (or the reading would be higher), does not have any significant load connected to it, or charged within a half day or so of the reading (voltage reading will be high after a charge, but slowly drop to its normal value). If it had measured 12.7V, it would be fully charged. 11.94V would have signified about 10% charge. No-load checks are not the best way to check a battery and these values only work for lead-acid, but it gives an idea of its charge status. This paragraph is just a bit of an aside, but might help if wondering about charge state of the battery or battery diagnostic. If only one cell is bad in the battery (for example, shorted plates), the battery would read low by about 2.1V. Assuming a fully charged, it would be below 10.6V for the voltage reading. If it has a cracked post, its value won't seem to make sense every time you measure it ...charging....loaded....just sitting there... and it will drive you (I mean me) crazy. Good Luck! Regards, Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Parts orders and where is the factory? Upgrading!
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Bill and everyone. With the on line ordering system and new web interface, it appears there is a problem and none of our emails are getting to Fiona in customer service. Mike McLean and I discussed it this morning and are working the quick catch up drill to get your orders handled as soon as possible. Yes we are phoning as in the 20th century. Unfortunately, Mike and I are off to Sun 'n Fun and Fiona is dealing with the mess of back log messages and orders. It appears our simple upgrade to bring our 21st Century on line order, accounting, parts supply, tracking and secure payment software is having a glitch. (Kind of obvious-No?) The IT folks (yes we have an IT department) are scrambling to get it moving. We are all embarrassed it was not caught sooner. Ah Progress, Bud Yerly US Europa Dealer ----- Original Message ----- From: William McClellan<mailto:wilwood(at)earthlink.net> To: Europa-List(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:28 PM Subject: Europa-List: Mod 67 and Factory > I am wanting to do Mod 67, cockpit width increase, but haven't been able to get any response back from the factory. Anyone know what is going on with the factory not responding? Really the only parts I need are the moldings, F35P, F35S, F36P and F36S, and I could complete the mod. I have already done the alteration to the door shoot bolt push arm. Thanks, Bill McClellan http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Guys, Just to keep you up to speed as to where were I'm at. Tonight before it got too dark I managed to check the following with the engine at 2200 rpm's. At first after charging Battery, the voltage check direct on the terminals was 12.5. The GG alternator inputs on the regulator we're 15.7 AC so I'm assuming the engine is producing correct voltage. I checked the +B out of the regulator and it read only .55 volts DC. Moved the engine up to 3000 RPM's and the +G only went to .55 volts. One of you said that should be 13.5 which is what I thought to charge the battery. Keep in mind my regulator is brand new. Just put it on because I thought the old one caused the problem. Turned all lights on and everything on the direct reading on the battery went to 11.8 volts DC. After about 7 to 10 min. that went to 11.5 I can only feel at this point the new regulator is bad and that the main loose ground I had found last week may have caused me to believe the old one was bad. What are my chances of buying a new regulator thats bad? Is there any other reason anyone can think of that may cause the +B regulator output to be only putting out a half of volt? Your inputs are very welcome! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush. Should have taking that shop course on electronics 40 years back. On Apr 8, 2010, at 5:12 PM, Greg Fuchs wrote: > > > > >> ... >> What is the battery voltage when the engine is running? >> You can also disconnect the regulator from the battery, BUT KEEP THE > CAPACITOR CONNECTED TO THE REGULATOR! and run the engine (preferably > with > all avionics switched off) and measure the voltage across the > capacitor. >> Voltage for the standard Rotax regulator should be appr. 13.7 Volts. >> Let me know how this works out so we have a starting point. > >> Frans > > Jeff, > > These are good points from Frans. Just an additional comment. IF > this is a > shunt regulator (I think it is), it regulates by shorting out the > alternator > phase(s) to ground, once the voltage starts to go higher than its > internal > setpoint (lets say somewhere around....14-15 volts or so, at the > regulator). > If there is no load to the alternator such as accessories and a > battery, the > regulator has to soak up ALL of the excess power from the > alternator. At > high engine speeds, this can become very significant. Without > cooling, it > can be very hard on the regulator. I suggest that if you test (yes, > DEFINITELY with the capacitor) without the battery hooked up, try > not to run > the engine too high in rpm for too long so as not to risk damaging the > regulator. IMHO, test with battery in circuit if possible, unless the > battery itself is suspected. A charge voltage between 13 and 14 > Volts I > consider good, and 13.8 ideal. Anything over 12.7 is charging the > battery > (for lead acid technology). > > Your battery tested at 12.5. That means its about 84% charged, > assuming it > is newer and in good shape (or the reading would be higher), does > not have > any significant load connected to it, or charged within a half day > or so of > the reading (voltage reading will be high after a charge, but slowly > drop to > its normal value). If it had measured 12.7V, it would be fully > charged. > 11.94V would have signified about 10% charge. No-load checks are not > the > best way to check a battery and these values only work for lead- > acid, but it > gives an idea of its charge status. This paragraph is just a bit of an > aside, but might help if wondering about charge state of the battery > or > battery diagnostic. If only one cell is bad in the battery (for > example, > shorted plates), the battery would read low by about 2.1V. Assuming > a fully > charged, it would be below 10.6V for the voltage reading. If it has a > cracked post, its value won't seem to make sense every time you > measure it > ...charging....loaded....just sitting there... and it will drive you > (I mean > me) crazy. Good Luck! > > Regards, > Greg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/09/2010 12:12 AM, Greg Fuchs wrote: > These are good points from Frans. Just an additional comment. IF this is a > shunt regulator (I think it is), It is not. It uses phase cutting (or just call it PWM). Hence the absolute need for a large capacitor at the output. Agree with your points about the battery. That's why I recommended to test the voltage without the battery connected. If it reads a correct voltage, we can assume the alternator is good, we can fairly assume that the regulator works (although it may fail under load, but is less likely). If the voltage does not read correct, we can pinpoint our trouble shooting to the alternator and regulator and don't have to worry about faulty wiring or batteries. Regardless of the outcome, we can narrow down our search significantly. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/09/2010 02:21 AM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > Tonight before it got too dark I managed to check the following with the > engine at 2200 rpm's. At first after charging Battery, the voltage check > direct on the terminals was 12.5. The GG alternator inputs on the > regulator we're 15.7 AC so I'm assuming the engine is producing correct > voltage. I checked the +B out of the regulator and it read only .55 > volts DC. Moved the engine up to 3000 RPM's and the +G only went to .55 All right. Alternator is good. Battery is good. Regulator doesn't work. But wait! This doesn't necessarily mean that the regulator is faulty. Based on your tests I strongly suspect you have a wiring problem. Without digging into the documentation: the +B should be connected to your battery, so it should read AT LEAST the battery voltage, i.e. 11.5 Volts. Furthermore, the regulator has a connector labeled C, and this is its reference input. This is where it measures the battery voltage, and uses this as a decision point how much of the juice of the alternator it should go "let through". So, in order for the regulator to work correctly, the C lead should be definitily be connected to the battery somehow. Ideally, it runs with a separate wire to the battery, but most folks simply tie it up to the +B lead, which is supposed to be connected to the battery anyway. (This is ok, but ignores the voltage drop over the battery cable, which is minimal in most setups, so for sake of simplicity, just ty it all together at the output of the regulator). So, my next suspect is that the C connector is not carrying battery voltage as well. Which is very bad: In this condition, the regulator "thinks" that the battery voltage is way too low, and cranks up the output. But regardless how much it tries, the C connector will never read the correct voltage since it is not connected properly. So, even if it outputs 20 Volts, it still thinks that it should try harder because it measures "a far too low voltage" on the C connector. You won't notice this, as the output of the regulator is not connected to the battery. I hate to tell you this, but in this condition it is well possible to silently kill the regulator. After that point it will cease outputting anything at all. And if you replace your regulator, you will kill the new one as well instantly. Alas, this may be your current situation... So. What you need to do to get out of this mess: 1) Double check that the minus of the battery is connected to the metal case of the regulator. Also check that the minus of the capacitor is connected to the metal case of the regulator. 2) Don't replace the regulator yet. Make sure that, without the engine running, but the main (battery and alternator) switches to ON, you measure on the output of the regulator the battery voltage (anything above 11 Volt is ok). If this is not the case, the regulator is simply not connected to the battery. It doesn't matter whether the regulator is defect or not, the output should read battery voltage if it is connected correctly to the battery. Correct your wiring, switches, relais, fuses, CB's until you read battery voltage at the output of the regulator. Yes, all this with the engine OFF, but with the switches in flight condition. Proceed only to the next step if you have fixed this problem. 3) Run the engine. Measure again. Voltage should increase above 13 Volts. If it does, you most likely have solved the problem. If it doesn't, you have killed your new regulator and should get a new one. Most likely you have killed your previous regulator in the same way, but it doesn't hurt to test it again now you have fixed your wiring. Maybe you are lucky and it has still some life in it, otherwise you have to buy a new regulator again. Oh, and while you are at it, replace the big capacitor as well. If it is has been destroyed (which is likely in the overvoltage condition it may have experienced) it will kill a new regulator in a short time. Note to readers: Yes, you CAN disconnect the regulator from the battery, but ONLY if you make sure that the capacitor stays connected to the regulator at all times, and that the C connector is connected to the capacitor as well, so the regulator "sees" what it is doing. The capacitor acts as a dummy battery in this case. Jeff, the best way to avoid this kind of troubles again, is to connect the C tab to the B tab on the alternator, and run from there a dedicated wire to the capacitor (without fuses, switches, etc). Keep that wire as short as possible, and make sure it is a fat wire. Run a dedicated wire from the minus from the capacitor to the metal case of the regulator, to make sure the loop stays always closed. Do not connect anything else to the capacitor. Let me know how this works out. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
I wrote: > Jeff, the best way to avoid this kind of troubles again, is to connect > the C tab to the B tab on the alternator, Oops. In case it is not an obvious typo: I mean regulator instead of alternator. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: What temperature is pheonelic firewall good for?
Ron=0AWhen subjected to a flame the phenolic resin will char but remain in place, for a while anyway. It will insulate the underlying glass reinforce ment and protect it, hopefully long enough to get back on the ground.=0AGra ham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "rparigor(at)suffolk.lib. ny.us" =0ATo: Europa =0ASent: Thursday, 8 April, 2010 22:15:16=0ASubject: Europa-List: What tem perature is pheonelic firewall good for?=0A=0ACuriosity question, what is t he max. temperature pheonelic firewall=0Ais good for?=0AThx.=0ARon Parigori -======================== ================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Ok, I assumed it was similar to most motorcycle regulators. Hence the problems of disconnecting the battery and all loads while the regulator is operating does not exist. Otherwise, I do not have experience with the Rotax regulator. The method below makes sense to me. -Greg --> On 04/09/2010 12:12 AM, Greg Fuchs wrote: > These are good points from Frans. Just an additional comment. IF this > is a shunt regulator (I think it is), It is not. It uses phase cutting (or just call it PWM). Hence the absolute need for a large capacitor at the output. Agree with your points about the battery. That's why I recommended to test the voltage without the battery connected. If it reads a correct voltage, we can assume the alternator is good, we can fairly assume that the regulator works (although it may fail under load, but is less likely). If the voltage does not read correct, we can pinpoint our trouble shooting to the alternator and regulator and don't have to worry about faulty wiring or batteries. Regardless of the outcome, we can narrow down our search significantly. Frans _ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Left the Nest Today
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Troy, congratulations! Isn=B4t it amazing feeling to understand you are not in a building phase any more? Now you have an ever lasting permanent flying status for N120EU ! When building, it was (mostly) really fun, but first and always building and building and building and then suddenly almost without warning flying. That was how I felt it. Now - when thinking backwards - it is like an unbelieveble dream "did I really build that dream machine?". Please be warned: you will soon notice some serious hangover or even deficiency symptom because of your new welcome nonbuildermode! Enjoy! Raimo from Finland OH-XRT Mono #417 ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 12:43 AM Subject: Europa-List: Left the Nest Today Hello Friends and Fellow Aviators, the surly bonds of Earth and lept into the air on it's maiden voyage. Well, actually the voyage was just orbiting the airport but she did so very well. I was amazed at the short take off, maybe 500 ft someone said. I don't know, I was too busy. I climbed to 5000 ft and the temps and pressures were well with the limits for the whole flight which lasted 35 minutes. I did some manuevers and stalls. No drama except for a left wing drop deep into the stall in dirty configuration. Mostly just mushed. I need a rudder trim tab, need to tighten the tail wheel cables, and recheck the weight and balance. (I needed a bit too much nose down trim for straight and level.) But all in all I am very happy. It went well today. I was worried about the weather. The wind had picked up from earlier in the week, but I couldn't take off work. Turns out that winds were at just 6-10 knots almost straight down the runway. For the records: It is kit number UK 120, weighed in at 850 lbs, Rotax 912S. Build hours were in excess of 4000, (a lot of mods, plus I'm slow). So now to debug it and enjoy it at long last. I want to thank each and everyone that has contributed ideas, helped solve problems and encouraged me to keep on keeping on during the long journey of building. It feels great to be up there pushing that stick around and have her respond so gracefully. That's it! Her name will be Grace...after my mom. See yall, Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Frans, I understand what you are saying about the +B & C connections... good points, but keep in mind my bird has been flying perfectly in it's current wiring form for over 200 hours. Just recent has this trouble come out. I will be changing the C wire direct to the battery. Thanks, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Apr 9, 2010, at 3:06 AM, Frans Veldman wrote: > > > > On 04/09/2010 02:21 AM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > >> Tonight before it got too dark I managed to check the following >> with the >> engine at 2200 rpm's. At first after charging Battery, the voltage >> check >> direct on the terminals was 12.5. The GG alternator inputs on the >> regulator we're 15.7 AC so I'm assuming the engine is producing >> correct >> voltage. I checked the +B out of the regulator and it read only .55 >> volts DC. Moved the engine up to 3000 RPM's and the +G only went >> to .55 > > All right. Alternator is good. Battery is good. Regulator doesn't > work. > But wait! This doesn't necessarily mean that the regulator is faulty. > > Based on your tests I strongly suspect you have a wiring problem. > Without digging into the documentation: the +B should be connected to > your battery, so it should read AT LEAST the battery voltage, i.e. > 11.5 > Volts. > > Furthermore, the regulator has a connector labeled C, and this is its > reference input. This is where it measures the battery voltage, and > uses > this as a decision point how much of the juice of the alternator it > should go "let through". > So, in order for the regulator to work correctly, the C lead should be > definitily be connected to the battery somehow. Ideally, it runs > with a > separate wire to the battery, but most folks simply tie it up to the > +B > lead, which is supposed to be connected to the battery anyway. (This > is > ok, but ignores the voltage drop over the battery cable, which is > minimal in most setups, so for sake of simplicity, just ty it all > together at the output of the regulator). > > So, my next suspect is that the C connector is not carrying battery > voltage as well. Which is very bad: > > In this condition, the regulator "thinks" that the battery voltage is > way too low, and cranks up the output. But regardless how much it > tries, > the C connector will never read the correct voltage since it is not > connected properly. So, even if it outputs 20 Volts, it still thinks > that it should try harder because it measures "a far too low > voltage" on > the C connector. You won't notice this, as the output of the regulator > is not connected to the battery. > I hate to tell you this, but in this condition it is well possible to > silently kill the regulator. After that point it will cease outputting > anything at all. And if you replace your regulator, you will kill the > new one as well instantly. Alas, this may be your current situation... > > So. What you need to do to get out of this mess: > 1) Double check that the minus of the battery is connected to the > metal > case of the regulator. Also check that the minus of the capacitor is > connected to the metal case of the regulator. > 2) Don't replace the regulator yet. Make sure that, without the engine > running, but the main (battery and alternator) switches to ON, you > measure on the output of the regulator the battery voltage (anything > above 11 Volt is ok). If this is not the case, the regulator is simply > not connected to the battery. It doesn't matter whether the > regulator is > defect or not, the output should read battery voltage if it is > connected > correctly to the battery. Correct your wiring, switches, relais, > fuses, > CB's until you read battery voltage at the output of the regulator. > Yes, > all this with the engine OFF, but with the switches in flight > condition. > Proceed only to the next step if you have fixed this problem. > 3) Run the engine. Measure again. Voltage should increase above 13 > Volts. If it does, you most likely have solved the problem. If it > doesn't, you have killed your new regulator and should get a new one. > Most likely you have killed your previous regulator in the same way, > but > it doesn't hurt to test it again now you have fixed your wiring. Maybe > you are lucky and it has still some life in it, otherwise you have to > buy a new regulator again. > Oh, and while you are at it, replace the big capacitor as well. If > it is > has been destroyed (which is likely in the overvoltage condition it > may > have experienced) it will kill a new regulator in a short time. > > Note to readers: Yes, you CAN disconnect the regulator from the > battery, > but ONLY if you make sure that the capacitor stays connected to the > regulator at all times, and that the C connector is connected to the > capacitor as well, so the regulator "sees" what it is doing. The > capacitor acts as a dummy battery in this case. > > Jeff, the best way to avoid this kind of troubles again, is to connect > the C tab to the B tab on the alternator, and run from there a > dedicated > wire to the capacitor (without fuses, switches, etc). Keep that wire > as > short as possible, and make sure it is a fat wire. Run a dedicated > wire > from the minus from the capacitor to the metal case of the > regulator, to > make sure the loop stays always closed. Do not connect anything else > to > the capacitor. > > Let me know how this works out. > > Frans > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)paardnatuurlijk.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/09/2010 04:48 PM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > I understand what you are saying about the +B & C connections... good > points, but keep in mind my bird has been flying perfectly in it's > current wiring form for over 200 hours. Just recent has this trouble > come out. Yes, I understand this, so I assume that something got broken in between. Corroded contact, broken wire, that sort of things. The regulator can just not charge the battery if it is not connected to the battery, it is as simple as that. If you read no battery voltage at the B+ tab, it simply means that the battery is not connected to the regulator, and hence can not be charged. I must assume that the battery has been connected properly in the past, so something must have gone broken. > I will be changing the C wire direct to the battery. Before you do that, make sure that you read battery voltage at the B+ connector. This is where your battery receives alternator current, if you measure no voltage here, it simply means the battery is not connected to the regulator at all. For the moment, keep the C wire connected to the B+ wire. Just follow the troubleshooting steps I explained, in the correct order. Succes, Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/09/2010 04:48 PM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > > I understand what you are saying about the +B & C connections... good > points, but keep in mind my bird has been flying perfectly in it's > current wiring form for over 200 hours. Just recent has this trouble > come out. Yes, I understand this, so I assume that something got broken in between. Corroded contact, broken wire, that sort of things. The regulator can just not charge the battery if it is not connected to the battery, it is as simple as that. If you read no battery voltage at the B+ tab, it simply means that the battery is not connected to the regulator, and hence can not be charged. And that is what is happing, right? I must assume that the battery has been connected properly in the past, so something must have gone broken. > I will be changing the C wire direct to the battery. Before you do that, make sure that you read battery voltage at the B+ connector. This is where your battery receives alternator current, if you measure no voltage here, it simply means the battery is not connected to the regulator at all. For the moment, keep the C wire connected to the B+ wire. Just follow the troubleshooting steps I explained, in the correct order. Succes, Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Jeff, Checking the suggesting wiring scheme for the Rotax installation in the Europa manual, it shows two 30A slow-blow fuses between the battery and the R-B-C connection on the regulator. One on either side of the master switch, both located under the cowling. If the schematic is a reference to location (not necessarily true, depending on implementation), one may be next to the regulator, and the other one may be next to the battery isolator or (non-starter side) of the starter solenoid. One of these in a blown state is the most likely culprint of your problem, in my estimation. Please check these two fuses. If already done....this message will self destruct in 12.7 seconds.... Happy regulator luck, Greg Fuchs _____________________________ ......... Is there any other reason anyone can think of that may cause the +B regulator output to be only putting out a half of volt? Your inputs are very welcome! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
On 04/09/2010 10:04 PM, Greg Fuchs wrote: > Checking the suggesting wiring scheme for the Rotax installation in the > Europa manual, it shows two 30A slow-blow fuses between the battery and the > R-B-C connection on the regulator. One on either side of the master switch, > both located under the cowling. If the schematic is a reference to location > (not necessarily true, depending on implementation), one may be next to the > regulator, and the other one may be next to the battery isolator or > (non-starter side) of the starter solenoid. One of these in a blown state is > the most likely culprint of your problem, in my estimation. This is very well possible, just as I said, there is no connection between the battery and the regulator. The only odd thing here is that there is no voltage on the output of the regulator. If the regulator was wired according to the books, then the RBC connectors are tied together, and connected to the capacitor which should be hard wired to the regulator. In this case, with a blown fuse, you would expect a correct (but useless) 13.7 Volts at the B+ tab, and a 12 Volt at the battery. But Jeff doesn't see a voltage on the output, indicating that there is more of a problem than just a blown fuse. I suspect that the capacitor and/or C connector is behind the fuse, and the regulator has subsequently been destroyed. I think we will hear some more soon. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Rotax 914 mechanic urgently needed!!!
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Today I sold my Europa/914 and the new owner headed back from Florida to California. He got to his first fuel stop in Crestview (Florida panhandle), filled the tank with 100LL and departed. A few minutes out the engine began to surge badly so he returned to the airport to check things out. He says the engine runs fine up to about 28 inches of manifold pressure, then begins to surge. The EGT's also are running up to 1600 degrees (F). This leads me to think he's running lean somewhere in the system. He has checked the spark plugs (fine), dropped the carb float bowls (fine), checked the fuel filters (fine), checked the operation of the turbo wastegate (fine), checked the rubber hoses between the carbs and the manifold log (fine). So what next? The poor guy is sitting up there on the ramp, 2,000 miles from home with no Rotax mechanics to be found. I know it's a long shot, but if there are any folks who can help him who are located near Crestview airport, it would be a lifesaver! Garry Stout Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Flight Crafters Open House
Dear Europa Owners/Builders, Flight Crafters is holding an impromptu Open House on Sunday April 11 between 9 am and PM at our Zephyrhills facility. Europa builders/owners are welcome to attend. Several Europas are in various stages of construction as well as other designs, RV7, RV12, Zenith 750, and 701 as well as the Stalker Kit Car will be displayed. Zenith Aircraft is also doing STOL 750 demo flights at the Zephyrhills Airport that day for anyone interested. Hot dogs and soda's served around the noon time until supplies last. For directions to Flight Crafters, check our web site for a map to our facility www.flightcrafters.com. We are located approximately 23 miles Northwest of the Sun n Fun site. Any questions, please call me at 813 695-1120 (cell. Come on by and talk airplanes or just hang out, we look forward to seeing our Europa Friends again. Bob Berube Flight Crafters 40417 Chancey Road STE 102 Zephyrhills, FL. 33542 813 695-1120 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
Subject: Re: Rotax 914 mechanic urgently needed!!!
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Garry friday night, I have a few ideas. 631-839-3636 Ron Parigoris > Today I sold my Europa/914 and the new owner headed back from Florida to > California. He got to his first fuel stop in Crestview (Florida > panhandle), > filled the tank with 100LL and departed. A few minutes out the engine > began > to surge badly so he returned to the airport to check things out. He says > the engine runs fine up to about 28 inches of manifold pressure, then > begins > to surge. The EGT's also are running up to 1600 degrees (F). This leads > me > to think he's running lean somewhere in the system. > > > > He has checked the spark plugs (fine), dropped the carb float bowls > (fine), > checked the fuel filters (fine), checked the operation of the turbo > wastegate (fine), checked the rubber hoses between the carbs and the > manifold log (fine). So what next? The poor guy is sitting up there on > the > ramp, 2,000 miles from home with no Rotax mechanics to be found. > > > > I know it's a long shot, but if there are any folks who can help him who > are > located near Crestview airport, it would be a lifesaver! > > > > Garry Stout > > Tampa, FL > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 09, 2010
As I lurk in the shadows and my ignorance, I can't help but be in awe of the technical expertise and understanding written as I read this thread... Fred A194 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2010
From: kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Rotax 914 mechanic urgently needed!!!
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a cracked diaphram in one o f the carbs.=C2- Had them rebuilt at Lockwood and the problem was gone. =C2- Ken Carpenter ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 8:43:24 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax 914 mechanic urgently needed!!! Hi Garry few ideas. 631-839-3636 Ron Parigoris > Today I sold my Europa/914 and the new owner headed back from Florida to > California. He got to his first fuel stop in Crestview (Florida > panhandle), > filled the tank with 100LL and departed. A few minutes out the engine > began > to surge badly so he returned to the airport to check things out. He says > the engine runs fine up to about 28 inches of manifold pressure, then > begins > to surge. The EGT's also are running up to 1600 degrees (F). This leads > me > to think he's running lean somewhere in the system. > > > > He has checked the spark plugs (fine), dropped the carb float bowls > (fine), > checked the fuel filters (fine), checked the operation of the turbo > wastegate (fine), checked the rubber hoses between the carbs and the > manifold log (fine). So what next? The poor guy is sitting up there on > the > ramp, 2,000 miles from home with no Rotax mechanics to be found. > > > > I know it's a long shot, but if there are any folks who can help him who > are > located near Crestview airport, it would be a lifesaver! > > > > Garry Stout > > Tampa, FL > > > > == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Matco Master Cylinders "take up"
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Gidday, I am attempting to set up my new finger brakes, and am wondering whether the Matco finger brakes have an inbuilt "sloppiness" prior to the uptake of the braking? With the standard lever lengths of what I remember is 7", I'm keen to know where the levers penetrate the top of the tunnel, if anyone has a dimension, and what distance aft they come back before braking occurs? Reg Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Mind Needed
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Fred, Very nice. I seem to remember a LOT of helpful emails coming from a certain person with the same name as yours! It is great to have a wealth of skilled people from all walks of life and capabilities as close away as the forum, isn't it? I am in awe myself. Regards, Greg ...I can't help but be in awe of the technical expertise and understanding written as I read this thread... Fred A194 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2010
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Matco Master Cylinders "take up"
On 04/10/2010 11:19 AM, Tony Renshaw wrote: > Gidday, I am attempting to set up my new finger brakes, and am > wondering whether the Matco finger brakes have an inbuilt > "sloppiness" prior to the uptake of the braking? With the standard > lever lengths of what I remember is 7", I'm keen to know where the > levers penetrate the top of the tunnel, if anyone has a dimension, > and what distance aft they come back before braking occurs? I managed to keep the same setup for the Matco's as with the Jamar brakes. So, if you follow the build manual for the Jamar brakes, you should be OK. My system came with a factory slotted plate and mounted on the outlined position worked very well. In the "dry" setup, the levers will be able to hit the end of the slotted plate, but once the brakes are willed with fluid, the "throw" of the levers decreases substantially. I can take some measurements if you let me know what you need. (Now I finished building pretty much, some excuse to fiddle with the airplane is sometimes welcome. It is a quite strange experience hanging around there with nothing to do, with all dozens of "ToDo-notes" exhausted. First flight? Maybe next weekend, if test-pilot and weather cooperate). Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2010
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Rudden push rod
Frans=0AYes, my mod retained the original Classic push rod, I agree the kno ck kneed look of the XS cables is ugly. It also overloads the hinges and fl anges if pilots push on both pedals. (which they sometimes do)=0AFactory ha ve now taken over my mod and can supply the parts. It is retrofittable but you will need to fit access panels. Not too big a deal.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Frans Veldman <frans@priv atepilots.nl>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, 20 March, 2 010 15:24:13=0ASubject: Europa-List: Rudden push rod=0A=0A--> Europa-List m essage posted by: Frans Veldman =0A=0AOn 03/20/2010 12:25 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote:=0A> I too think we need to help Europa f actory succeed. Those of you who=0A> remember my tail wheel/ rudder drive m od which reverts to push rod drive=0A> for the rudder will be pleased to no te that the factory are now=0A> supplying the mod kit. I strongly recommend this mod as it reduces the=0A> loads on the rudder hinges and flanges.=0A =0AI remember having seen a Europa classic tri gear with a rudder push rod =0Arather than the cable setup. I wondered whether this was a classic=0Afea ture, and why it was abandoned, because my kit came with the (ugly)=0Acable setup.=0AWas this part of your tailwheel mod?=0AAlthough my Europa is fini shed, I would still like to see the details=0A(and maybe it is possible to convert). That starboard external cable and=0Ahorn don't really belong on s =========================0A == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: SnF Engineering Meeting
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Is it too early to start planning the annual festivities? I, myself, will be attending Wednesday to Saturday afternoon Anyone else? Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293778#293778 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Effects of Flaps and Ailerons on Pitch Trim
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Hi All, Ok, you know what they say about dumb questions. Are my flaps reflexed too far (up) if I have to dial in 2 marks of nose down trim for straight and level flight or am I thinking backwards? I rechecked the weight and balance as well as the stabilator and anti servo limits and they are all good. I was thinking maybe just the indicator needed adjusting but the tabs are aligned with the stabs. and the stabs. are aligned with the fuselage molding, and the indicator is on zero. Not sure whats going on for sure. It flies ok but if the tabs aren't aligned it can't be clean and efficient. Any thoughts? I figure it's got to be ailerons or flaps. Had to get back home today before I had time to investigate further. Just need some reenforcing thoughts from you experts. Troy Maynor Europa Monowheel Classic Flying ________________________________________________________________________________

March 07, 2010 - April 11, 2010

Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ic