JabiruEngine-Archive.digest.vol-ab
January 09, 2007 - August 24, 2007
www.umainstruments.com/
http://www.umainstruments.com/
Sorry, I have an attitude about them.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | UMA Tach install, Jab 2200 |
Dan,
Wire the pickup lead in to one of the alternator wires between alternator
and regulator.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Mc
Intyre
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 8:44 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: UMA Tach install, Jab 2200
I'm installing a UMA tachometer in my kitfox model iv with the 2200 engine.
The tach instructions state to hook the tach to the postive side of the
"exciter" on the Jab before the regulator. Can anyone help here, I'm not
sure were to hook the lead on the exciter?
Thanks
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86523#86523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Leedham" <sideslip(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Radio interference |
I have a new Jabiru 2200 (85hp) installed in a Murphy Maverick with an
Icom IC-A200 panel mount VHFand an external antenna mounted throughthe
fuselage skin midway between the cabin and fin using the fuselage for a
groundplane.
I am picking up ignition interference when receiving which increases
with engine speed.
I have tried running the radio from an independant power supply to
eliminate installation wiring and still get the same problem, which
seems to indicate that the antenna is picking up the radiated noise.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to cure the problem? Would a
smaller insulated ground plane help?
Geoff Leedham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio interference |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Geoff,
I just posted some info and plots of radiated noise from HT leads on
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jabiruengines/message/16729
This might help although in your case it might also be alternator regulator noise.
I have shielded 'P' leads which made no apparent difference. The major cause for
me is the HT leads and I have yet to try shielding or ferrite bead loading of
the coil leads. Fitting the Bosch leads in place of the factory ones made the
largest improvement. I use a Bendixking KY96A which is same as the A200.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88227#88227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my super
duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust pipe
and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had
formed in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I removed
the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the metal
guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had
disintegrated into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of
stainless steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge
stainless stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and repaired
the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks, if they
were there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the engine
when the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300, my plane and
my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up an exit pipe in flight ???
All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put out a SB some time back on the
inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds were MIG not TIG, but nothing
on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill of Georgia N505WP,
601XL-3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Leedham" <sideslip(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio interference |
Hi Ralph
Thanks for the reply. When you replaced the leads did you replace the ones
from the coils to the distributer caps? The plug leads on my engine are
marked as suppressed but not the coil leads. Have you replaced the NGK plugs
with resistor types?
Geoff
----- Original Message -----
From: "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:40 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Radio interference
>
> Geoff,
> I just posted some info and plots of radiated noise from HT leads
> on
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jabiruengines/message/16729
>
> This might help although in your case it might also be alternator
> regulator noise.
> I have shielded 'P' leads which made no apparent difference. The major
> cause for me is the HT leads and I have yet to try shielding or ferrite
> bead loading of the coil leads. Fitting the Bosch leads in place of the
> factory ones made the largest improvement. I use a Bendixking KY96A which
> is same as the A200.
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88227#88227
>
>
> --
> 15/01/2007 11:04
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick otterback <vettin74(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
Nick
JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my super
duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust pipe
and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had formed
in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I removed
the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the metal guts
from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had disintegrated
into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of stainless
steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge stainless
stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and repaired
the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks, if they were
there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the engine when
the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300, my plane and
my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put out a
SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill of
Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
When questioned on this issue, Jabiru USA will certainly ask when the engine and
muffler were bought and probably offer that some improvement has been made since
then. So when was engine delivered Bill?
Ed Moody II
---- nick otterback wrote:
> how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
>
> Nick
>
> JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my super
duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust pipe
and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had formed
in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I removed
the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the metal
guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had disintegrated
into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of stainless
steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge stainless
stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and repaired
the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks, if they were
there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the engine when
the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300, my plane and
my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
> an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put out
a SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill
of Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Nick, I'm not at the airport, but I think they are about 16-18 inches long. Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: vettin74(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
Nick
JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my super duper
homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust pipe and
it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had formed
in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I removed the
muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the metal guts
from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had disintegrated
into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of stainless
steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge stainless
stock and TIG welded
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Ed, I can't really remember when I received the engine. I would have to look in
my log for sure, but I think spring/summer of '04 ? How's your building coming
along? Well, I hope. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
When questioned on this issue, Jabiru USA will certainly ask when the engine and
muffler were bought and probably offer that some improvement has been made since
then. So when was engine delivered Bill?
Ed Moody II
---- nick otterback wrote:
> how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
>
> Nick
>
> JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my
super duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust
pipe and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had
formed in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I
removed the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the
metal guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had
disintegrated into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of
stainless steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge
stainless stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and
repaired the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks, if
they were there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the
engine when the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300, my
plane and my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
> an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put out
a SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill of
Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
Bill,
I may be wrong, but I believe that the inside of the muffler has
no "Screens". The outlet pipes though have a bunch of holes in the area
inside of the muffler (like piccolo tubes).
When I received my FWF from Jab USA, the outlet pipes were not
welded to the muffler, nor were there any holes for fitting the outlet
pipes into the muffler. One end of the outlet pipes was capped closed.
I aked Pete about this and he said that it was in case anyone
wished to weld the outlets themselves and for other
configurations/installations. He said he would have them welded for the
XL, so I sent the muffler and outlet pipes back to Pete and he returned
them TIG welded. The "forward/capped closed" ends of the outlet pipes
were fillet welded to the muffler after a hole was cut in the muffler,
along with a fillet weld around the outlet hole at the aft exit
circumference.
Is possible you had the muffler "holed" and the outlet pipes
welded locally? Were your outlets welded at both ends?
Tony Graziano
Zodiac 601XL/Jab3300A; N493TG; 195 hrs
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Date: Thu Jan 18 - 6:55 AM
Ed, I can't really remember when I received the engine. I would have to
look in
my log for sure, but I think spring/summer of '04 ? How's your building
coming
along? Well, I hope. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
When questioned on this issue, Jabiru USA will certainly ask when the
engine and
muffler were bought and probably offer that some improvement has been
made since
then. So when was engine delivered Bill?
Ed Moody II
---- nick otterback wrote:
> how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
>
> Nick
>
> JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating
my
super duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left
exhaust
pipe and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks
had
formed in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the
welds. I
removed the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All
the
metal guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler
had
disintegrated into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be
made of
stainless steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18
gauge
stainless stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them
and
repaired the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any
cracks, if
they were there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on
the
engine when the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my
3300, my
plane and my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
> an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab
put out
a SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the
welds were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards,
Bill of
Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Tony, The inlet holes that the manifold pipes slide into were welded. The outlet
holes, I had to cut and have the pipes TIG welded into place. The baffle screen
was visible inside the "can" when I made the two holes. The baffle screen
is what disintegrated into chunks about quarter to .50 cent size pieces. Good
to hear from you and hope your doing well, Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 1:13 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
Bill,
I may be wrong, but I believe that the inside of the muffler has no "Screens".
The outlet pipes though have a bunch of holes in the area inside of the muffler
(like piccolo tubes).
When I received my FWF from Jab USA, the outlet pipes were not welded to the muffler,
nor were there any holes for fitting the outlet pipes into the muffler.
One end of the outlet pipes was capped closed.
I aked Pete about this and he said that it was in case anyone wished to weld the
outlets themselves and for other configurations/installations. He said he
would have them welded for the XL, so I sent the muffler and outlet pipes back
to Pete and he returned them TIG welded. The "forward/capped closed" ends of
the outlet pipes were fillet welded to the muffler after a hole was cut in the
muffler, along with a fillet weld around the outlet hole at the aft exit circumference.
Is possible you had the muffler "holed" and the outlet pipes welded locally? Were
your outlets welded at both ends?
Tony Graziano
Zodiac 601XL/Jab3300A; N493TG; 195 hrs
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Date: Thu Jan 18 - 6:55 AM
Ed, I can't really remember when I received the engine. I would have to look in
my log for sure, but I think spring/summer of '04 ? How's your building coming
along? Well, I hope. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
When questioned on this issue, Jabiru USA will certainly ask when the engine and
muffler were bought and probably offer that some improvement has been made since
then. So when was engine delivered Bill?
Ed Moody II
---- nick otterback wrote:
> how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
>
> Nick
>
> JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my
super duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left exhaust
pipe and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had
formed in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I
removed the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the
metal guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had
disintegrated into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made of
stainless steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18 gauge
stainless stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and
repaired the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks, if
they were there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the
engine when the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300, my
plane and my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
> an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put out
a SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill of
Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
Bill,
Did you cut the holes all the way through the can so that the outlet was
welded on both sides of the can?
Pete
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
Tony, The inlet holes that the manifold pipes slide into were welded. The
outlet holes, I had to cut and have the pipes TIG welded into place. The
baffle screen was visible inside the "can" when I made the two holes. The
baffle screen is what disintegrated into chunks about quarter to .50 cent
size pieces. Good to hear from you and hope your doing well, Best regards,
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 1:13 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
Bill,
I may be wrong, but I believe that the inside of the muffler has no
"Screens". The outlet pipes though have a bunch of holes in the area inside
of the muffler (like piccolo tubes).
When I received my FWF from Jab USA, the outlet pipes were not welded to the
muffler, nor were there any holes for fitting the outlet pipes into the
muffler. One end of the outlet pipes was capped closed.
I aked Pete about this and he said that it was in case anyone wished to
weld the outlets themselves and for other configurations/installations. He
said he would have them welded for the XL, so I sent the muffler and outlet
pipes back to Pete and he returned them TIG welded. The "forward/capped
closed" ends of the outlet pipes were fillet welded to the muffler after a
hole was cut in the muffler, along with a fillet weld around the outlet
hole at the aft exit circumference.
Is possible you had the muffler "holed" and the outlet pipes welded locally?
Were your outlets welded at both ends?
Tony Graziano
Zodiac 601XL/Jab3300A; N493TG; 195 hrs
From:
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
replyto=8C90927C72D2124-4F0-4775@MBLK-M23.sysops
.aol.com');>
Date:
Thu Jan 18 - 6:55 AM
Ed, I can't really remember when I received the engine. I would have to look
in
my log for sure, but I think spring/summer of '04 ? How's your building
coming
along? Well, I hope. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
replyto=8C90927C72D2124-4F0-4775@MBLK-M23.sysops.ao
l.com');>
Sent: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure
When questioned on this issue, Jabiru USA will certainly ask when the engine
and
muffler were bought and probably offer that some improvement has been made
since
then. So when was engine delivered Bill?
Ed Moody II
---- nick otterback <
replyto=8C90927C72D2124-4F0-4775@MBLK-M23.sysops.a
ol.com');> vettin74(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
> how long are the tail pipes out the bottom of the cowl?
>
> Nick
>
> JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
replyto=8C90927C72D2124-4F0-4775@MBLK-M23.sysops
.aol.com');> wrote:
> Dear Thread Friends, Last week after a short flight I was relocating my
super duper homebuilt preheater under the cowl when I touched the left
exhaust
pipe and it moved. I removed the cowl and inspected and found two cracks had
formed in the muffler, one above, one below the exit pipe from the welds. I
removed the muffler and then I saw what I am reporting as a failure. All the
metal guts from the inside fell out. The metal screen inside the muffler had
disintegrated into little chunks of steel. The inside part must not be made
of
stainless steel ???? I fished them all out and made two gussets from 18
gauge
stainless stock and TIG welded them to the exit pipes to strengthen them and
repaired the cracks. I did my 100 hour at Christmas, but missed any cracks,
if
they were there. What really jerks my chain is I have only 101 hours on the
engine when the thing failed. I wonder what would have happened to my 3300,
my
plane and my butt if a couple solid corner chunks stopped up
> an exit pipe in flight ??? All you Jab guys check your mufflers. Jab put
out
a SB some time back on the inlet pipe connectors cracking because the welds
were
MIG not TIG, but nothing on the inside being eaten away, Bet regards, Bill
of
Georgia N505WP, 601XL-3300
_____
size=2 width="100%" align=center>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Jabiru Muffler Failure |
Pete, I had stainless steel sleeves similar to the inlet sleeves made and
welded to the can skin. Then the exit pipes welded into the sleeves. As to "all
the way through" the can, no it was not welded from behind. Could not have been
had I thought of it because the baffle shelf was welded inside the can and
blocked access to the back inside of the exit sleeves. I guess I could weld it
that way now that the baffle has disintegrated. Would you like for me to mail
you the chunks and bits I saved? Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio interference |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Geoff,
You cannot easily change the coil leads, and they are wire.
I intend to shield one of them as an experiment and compare with the other. ferrite
beads may also be a trial.
I use standard plugs. there is some debate about resistor ones and NIX plugs, but
as my replacement ignition leads are already the correct resistance 3K - 8K
adding a further 5K at the plug would add little suppression but might allow
the coils to fail due to hihger voltages or the spark power to be weaker. Jabiru
dont allow resistor plugs.
I suspect the distributors also are a noise source.
When we used to suppress radio inspectors vehicles we had to shield everything.
That typically meant mounting a box around the distributor and sparkplugs and
relocating the coil inside the box. It made a RF quiet vehicle but hard to service.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=88767#88767
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Pre Start Procedure |
Hi All,
In response to lots of inquiries from customers I have added a Pre Start
Procedure to the Tech Tips section of the Jabiru USA web site
www.usjabiru.com <http://www.usjabiru.com/> . This is the procedure we use
before the first start of a Jabiru engine.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pre Start Procedure |
Hello Pete,
One of the fellows at my airport was told that when motoring his new
engine with the starter to pre-oil it prior to first start, the spark
plugs that are removed should remain attached to the plug wires, and the
plug bodies left in contact with an engine grounding surface. I believe
that one of the Technical staff in Tennessee advised this, presumably
because he felt that firing the ignition system without a load could
cause some type of damage to the coils.
Is this still a valid concern?
Thank you very much,
Hawkeye Hughes, Polson MT
----- Original Message -----
From: Jabiru USA
To: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com ; jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:51 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Pre Start Procedure
Hi All,
In response to lots of inquiries from customers I have added a Pre
Start Procedure to the Tech Tips section of the Jabiru USA web site
www.usjabiru.com. This is the procedure we use before the first start
of a Jabiru engine.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | Pre Start Procedure |
Hello Hawkeye
I simply ground the P leads on the coils to keep them from energizing while
your spinning the motor
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of REHughes
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:47 PM
To: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com; jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Pre Start Procedure
Hello Pete,
One of the fellows at my airport was told that when motoring his new
engine with the starter to pre-oil it prior to first start, the spark plugs
that are removed should remain attached to the plug wires, and the plug
bodies left in contact with an engine grounding surface. I believe that one
of the Technical staff in Tennessee advised this, presumably because he felt
that firing the ignition system without a load could cause some type of
damage to the coils.
Is this still a valid concern?
Thank you very much,
Hawkeye Hughes, Polson MT
----- Original Message -----
From: Jabiru USA
To: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com ; jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:51 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Pre Start Procedure
Hi All,
In response to lots of inquiries from customers I have added a Pre Start
Procedure to the Tech Tips section of the Jabiru USA web site
www.usjabiru.com. This is the procedure we use before the first start of a
Jabiru engine.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio interference |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Updated the plots at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jabiruengines/files/Radio%20noise/
I also did bench testing; adding an R type plug and distributor spark gap to the
setup to more closely represent the situation on a flying engine.
I could only observe the noise with the R plug on an older analyser (no plots available),
however the noise reduction was a significant improvement over the
normal plug and inductive lead combination (-5 dB).
The pulse observed at the coil output lead was not significantly higher when using
a R plug; but it was higher with increased plug gap settings.
I now have no concerns about R plugs affecting coil reliability provided the specified
gap is maintained. NGK DR9EIX is probably the best option.
If the inductive suppression lead is only available with low resistance (less than
1 K) then fitting R plugs would seem a good option.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92699#92699
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 3300A Electrical System Questions |
I have my 3300A physically installed in my CH601 HD using the
JabiruUSA FWF kit. I have a couple questions about the electrical system.
First, let me also tell you that I am an electrical novice, so I may be
missing some rather basic information.
I have Revision 4 of the 3300A Installation Manual dated
22/08/03. On page 10 is the electrical system. It does not include a
battery contactor. Why is one not included? Is there a problem if I decide
to add one based on other builder's recommendations?
On the same diagram, the master switch controls only the
battery. There is no alternator master switch. Looking at the figure on
page 18, the single phase alternator is hooked up very differently than the
old three phase alternator. I have been told that Jabiru used to recommend
an alternator master switch. Does that only apply to the old three phase
alternators? Do I need one?
Thank you.
Jeff Davidson
Herndon, Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Interview from Sebring Florida show |
You might be interested to view an interview we did about the Jabiru engine,
at last month's Sport Aviation Expo in Sebring, Florida. It wasn't
rehearsed, so please forgive the occasional 'ummm' and 'ahhh'. You'll need
DSL / broadband as (I think) it's a non-downloadable streaming video file.
See link:
http://www.lightsportaircraft.ca/volume1-issue6/webcast-3/
Andy Silvester
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan Bennett" <Duncan.Bennett(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | 3300A Electrical System Questions |
Hi Jeff,
The alternator master is only needed with the old 3 phase. It was necessary
to prevent the rectifier burning out when the engine had not been started
but the master was on.
Duncan Bennett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: 19 February 2007 16:55
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: 3300A Electrical System Questions
I have my 3300A physically installed in my CH601 HD using the
JabiruUSA FWF kit. I have a couple questions about the electrical system.
First, let me also tell you that I am an electrical novice, so I may be
missing some rather basic information.
I have Revision 4 of the 3300A Installation Manual dated
22/08/03. On page 10 is the electrical system. It does not include a
battery contactor. Why is one not included? Is there a problem if I decide
to add one based on other builder's recommendations?
On the same diagram, the master switch controls only the
battery. There is no alternator master switch. Looking at the figure on
page 18, the single phase alternator is hooked up very differently than the
old three phase alternator. I have been told that Jabiru used to recommend
an alternator master switch. Does that only apply to the old three phase
alternators? Do I need one?
Thank you.
Jeff Davidson
Herndon, Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3300A Electrical System Questions |
Jeff,
I use a battery contactor on my Zodiac 601XL/Jab3300A, activated by the
master switch. I also use a relay operated by an alternator switch to bring
power from the alternator to the buss bar. The "Master Switch" is a split
Cessna type (Master and Alternator switch). If you close the Alt you
automatically close the Master. I procured the relay from Radio Shack.
Tony Graziano
Buchanan, Tn
N493TG, 209 hrs
> From: "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: 3300A Electrical System Questions
>
> I have my 3300A physically installed in my CH601 HD using the
> JabiruUSA FWF kit. I have a couple questions about the electrical system.
> First, let me also tell you that I am an electrical novice, so I may be
> missing some rather basic information.
>
> I have Revision 4 of the 3300A Installation Manual dated
> 22/08/03. On page 10 is the electrical system. It does not include a
> battery contactor. Why is one not included? Is there a problem if I
> decide
> to add one based on other builder's recommendations?
>
> On the same diagram, the master switch controls only the
> battery. There is no alternator master switch. Looking at the figure on
> page 18, the single phase alternator is hooked up very differently than
> the
> old three phase alternator. I have been told that Jabiru used to
> recommend
> an alternator master switch. Does that only apply to the old three phase
> alternators? Do I need one?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jeff Davidson
>
> Herndon, Virginia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tennessee Propeller Inc |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Has anyone used a Tennessee Propeller Inc Prop on a Jabiru 3300? What's your opinion?
http://www.tn-prop.com/
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'734#96734
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tennessee Propeller Inc |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)AOL.COM |
I think Ron Dewees is using Tennessee prop with his 3300 HDS. He sometimes reads
this thread when he's not bicycling up to Mount Everest or panning for gold
in the Yucatan.
-----Original Message-----
From: sonex293(at)nc.rr.com
Sent: Thu, 22 Feb 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Tennessee Propeller Inc
Has anyone used a Tennessee Propeller Inc Prop on a Jabiru 3300? What's your
opinion?
http://www.tn-prop.com/
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'734#96734
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More Propeller Questions |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
I guess I'll stick with the Sonex Proven designs....
Does anyone have any experience comparing the Sensenich to the Prince P-Tip?
http://www.sensenichprop.com/
http://www.princeaircraft.com/
Sonex seems to be pushing the Sensenich lately claiming equal performance at lower
cost. The lead times on the Sensenich however are quite long. Also, according
to the PAC website, their props may produce less prop-tip noise. Anyone
have experience?
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Jabiru 3300 equipped Tri-Gear
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97022#97022
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sensenich mated to a 3300 |
Hello Michael,
I have a Europa XS with a 3300 installed swinging a Sensenich hollow carbon,
ground adjustable prop and it has been flawless fo over 89 hours now. Very
well made prop and hub, very light and very smooth. Performance is excellent.
My numbers are on the high side of what Europa quotes for a 912S/Warp Drive
combo. Airmaster is supposed to release an electrically adjustable hub for
this blade set later this year, probably at Oshkosh.
I have no experience with the Prince P-tip props, though.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton-
Dunlap, TN (TN89)
N245E
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich mated to a 3300 |
Miguel Maia de Loureiro a crit :
> I'm flying a Pioneer 300S with Jab3300 and a DUC prop with 64in. Got
> to be careful not to reach VNE at 160 Knots. Takeoff? Less than 300
> ft! Climbs at 1900ft/min at 80Knots (BRC). Cruises at 125 Knots at
> 70%. 14L/h Unlead 98 oct.
>
> What you say?
Miguel,
Those numbers are most impressive indeed. 300 ft run, 1900 ft/min. 80 kt
seems a bit high for best rate of climb. Alpi states something closer to
65 kt.
Do you really mean you're close to 160 kt at WOT ? In that case, 70%
cruise should be closer to 140 kt ?
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich mated to a 3300 |
Hello Gilles,
Most Alpi Pioneer 300's flies with short wing versions and ROTAX 912S, as
Pioneer Team flies. About prop eficiency, it's not linear. Pitching prop
with different values did seam to be linear as well. 160 knots can be done
with high energy, that means, pitch down the bird at about -250 ft/min at
full. In 3 o 4 seconds you're there. Level out and keep full power. 125
Knots at 70% 'cause larger wings induce more drag and better lift
On 2/25/07, Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> wrote:
>
> Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Miguel Maia de Loureiro a =E9crit :
> > I'm flying a Pioneer 300S with Jab3300 and a DUC prop with 64in. Got
> > to be careful not to reach VNE at 160 Knots. Takeoff? Less than 300
> > ft! Climbs at 1900ft/min at 80Knots (BRC). Cruises at 125 Knots at
> > 70%. 14L/h Unlead 98 oct.
> >
> > What you say?
> Miguel,
>
> Those numbers are most impressive indeed. 300 ft run, 1900 ft/min. 80 kt
> seems a bit high for best rate of climb. Alpi states something closer to
> 65 kt.
> Do you really mean you're close to 160 kt at WOT ? In that case, 70%
> cruise should be closer to 140 kt ?
>
> Regards,
> Gilles Thesee
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/25/07 |
In a message dated 2/26/2007 2:58:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com writes:
I would be shocked if your Jabiru didn't outperform a Rotax 912S on
nearly any airplane. For one thing it has 20 or 30 percent more horse
power.
Hi Paul,
Yes, it would seem that way, wouldn't it? What is really shocking is the
folks over on the Yahoo Jabiru forum who claim exactly the opposite. Rotax is
the only way, dontchaknow? One fellow in particular claims that anyone building
a Europa with a Jabiru will be sorely disappointed when his Rotax 912S
powered Europa friends "go right by", meaning that he claims the 912S Europa is
faster. False. This fellow also claims that the few extra lbs the Jab has over
the Rotax 912S causes the handling to suffer. False again. There are many
Europa's flying with engines heavier than the Jab, i.e., Subaru, Continental
0-200, etc, with no ill effects. I've taken this one through many positive
aerobatic maneuvers and it is a delight to fly at all areas of the envelope. Not
only is the Jab powered Europa faster, it climbs better, and we've measured it
to be quieter, too. Fuel consumption is slightly higher than the 912S, but
otherwise, having flown both, the Jab/Europa is a superior combo in my
opinion. It is certainly several orders of magnitude smoother than the Rotax,
too.
(and the Jab is considerably cheaper) I really like the lines the longer cowl
gives the Europa as well. Gone is the goofy "doghouse" on the bottom cowl
that contains the Rotax radiator and the stubby look it gives the stock Europa.
Mine looks more like a cross between a Europa and a Lancair. It draws a crowd
everywhere I go.
I've offered to race any of their 912S powered Europa trigears and or demo
the outstanding performance of this combination to them, but so far no
takers. It seems that although a few claim to know everything about Jabiru powered
Europa's, only one has any direct experience and that one was a completely
different firewall forward and prop than mine. The others are merely parroting
this one owner's experience. Typical and sad at the same time.
I look forward to the release of the Airmaster hub for this prop. My Europa
XS is absolutely screaming for constant speed!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN (TN89)
N245E
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Uncrating Engine |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Ok, now that we have some traffic here on Matronics, I have another question.
When my Jab 3300 engine arrived I took the top off of the crate to inspect for
any damage. Jabiru does an excellent job of packaging the engine and no damage
was found. I did notice however, that the engine ships upside down. Anyone
have any advise on getting the engine un-crated and flipped right side up? I've
just borrowed a hydraulic engine hoist to aid in the effort, but I don't want
to damage the engine in my efforts to get it on the engine mounts.
Thanks Guys!
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97401#97401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More Propeller Questions |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Based on some owner feedback, I think I'm going to order a Prince P-Tip prop for
my Sonex Jab3300. Climb performance and Prop Noise were the two biggest factors
in my decision.
Thanks,
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97402#97402
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uncrating Engine |
Get the video from Zenith, its a new video and is really thorogh, covers the
uncrating and installing the 3300.
Lots of luck
J Schultz
601xl builder w/3300 on order
-----Original Message-----
From: sonex293(at)nc.rr.com
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 7:08 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Uncrating Engine
Ok, now that we have some traffic here on Matronics, I have another question.
When my Jab 3300 engine arrived I took the top off of the crate to inspect for
any damage. Jabiru does an excellent job of packaging the engine and no damage
was found. I did notice however, that the engine ships upside down. Anyone
have any advise on getting the engine un-crated and flipped right side up? I've
just borrowed a hydraulic engine hoist to aid in the effort, but I don't want to
damage the engine in my efforts to get it on the engine mounts.
Thanks Guys!
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97401#97401
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam
and email virus protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich mated to a 3300 |
Miguel Maia de Loureiro a crit :
> 160 knots can be done with high energy, that means, pitch down the
> bird at about -250 ft/min at full. In 3 o 4 seconds you're there.
Miguel,
Understand. Makes sense.
Thanks,
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Uncrating Engine |
Are you talking about the video from HomeBuiltHelp? The one on Jabiru 3300 installation
on Zentih aircraft does cover un-crating.
Dred
---- its4jes(at)aim.com wrote:
> Get the video from Zenith, its a new video and is really thorogh, covers the
uncrating and installing the 3300.
>
> Lots of luck
>
> J Schultz
> 601xl builder w/3300 on order
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sonex293(at)nc.rr.com
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 7:08 AM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Uncrating Engine
>
>
> Ok, now that we have some traffic here on Matronics, I have another question.
>
>
> When my Jab 3300 engine arrived I took the top off of the crate to inspect for
> any damage. Jabiru does an excellent job of packaging the engine and no damage
> was found. I did notice however, that the engine ships upside down. Anyone
> have any advise on getting the engine un-crated and flipped right side up? I've
> just borrowed a hydraulic engine hoist to aid in the effort, but I don't want
to
> damage the engine in my efforts to get it on the engine mounts.
>
> Thanks Guys!
>
> --
> Michael Crowder
> Sonex #293
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97401#97401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam
and email virus protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Uncrating Engine |
Mine was shipped right-side up...at least with all the writing on the
crate up, and the skids down, and the top of the crate off, I was
looking at the top of the engine.
Lynn
On Feb 26, 2007, at 10:08 AM, sonex293 wrote:
>
>
> Ok, now that we have some traffic here on Matronics, I have
> another question.
>
> When my Jab 3300 engine arrived I took the top off of the crate to
> inspect for any damage. Jabiru does an excellent job of packaging
> the engine and no damage was found. I did notice however, that the
> engine ships upside down. Anyone have any advise on getting the
> engine un-crated and flipped right side up? I've just borrowed a
> hydraulic engine hoist to aid in the effort, but I don't want to
> damage the engine in my efforts to get it on the engine mounts.
>
> Thanks Guys!
>
> --
> Michael Crowder
> Sonex #293
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97401#97401
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Uncrating Engine |
>From now on, as in the begining, J3300 will be shiped with oil sump to the
upper side and avoid smash of muffler cover. Anyway, you always can turn th
e
box up side down and remove the bottom of the box, unscrewing it. Other way
is to rotate the box with engine front side to the ground, unscrew the inne
r
wood bars, rotate all engine 180=BA, and flip it to some smooth plate ot
something. I'm working with Jabiru Dealer to Portugal and Spain, so we've
done it few times with two persons direct to the top of a table, with flang
e
down.
By the way, did you had any problems with hydraulic pushers? Any strage
noise, something like "tic tic" like an untuned valve or something?
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/25/07 |
In the lower speed, in the higher speed, in gas and oil consuption, in
weight, in less noise, parts prices, TBO hours, and global price... Jabiru
is better than ROTAX... and Jabi is a kid that can fly full power constantly
'til stop few hours later; ROTAX is a grand-father who born to cut grass.
Have you noticed the noise she makes at starts and shuting down 'cause of
the reduction gears? It looks like my mother in law. It's a reliable engine
with some caution. Everybody get used to it. Jab is another engine concept,
made for fly. Some things i would like to see changed in Jabi, like
cylinders AL alloy.
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Davidson <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Shielded wires with modern ignition systems |
The following posting was made to the AeroElectric list, but I thought it was appropriate
here on the Jabiru Engine list as well. Jeff Davidson
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Shielded wires with modern ignition systems
. . .
>
>The Jabiru mags are not "electronic ignition" as commonly classified.
they
>do have a transistor switch inside.
>
>Although shielding the P lead is not necessary, best practice is to run in
>shielded lead, ground the shield at mag end to a spare thread hole (on the
>alternator statorplate will do). At the mag switch end, the shield is
>connected to the gnd terminal of the switch, but not connected to the
>airframe here.
>
>during running, there are over 200v of spikes on these lines. Refer to the
>files section on Yahoo Jabiru/engines group, "radio noise" , look
for
>jab.coil primary - a photo of the trace on the P lead.
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jabiruengines/files/Radio%20noise/
Excellent data sir! Thank you. I'm disappointed to hear about
it though . . . you would think that a company so obviously
dedicated to the use of modern machining and manufacturing
techniques would go a step further with their ignition system.
Having said that, I'll have to acknowledge that their decisions
may well have been based on a considered trade off between
cost and performance . . . and using shielded ignition control
leads has been a standard practice in aviation since the first
radio went into an airplane perhaps 95 years ago!
Okay, based on expanded knowledge offered by our brother Ralph,
we know that optimal wiring for the engine is POORLY explained on
page 10 of the Jabiru 3300 installation manual. Ralph
correctly cites the need for shielded wire and I concur
with the techniques he suggested above.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( IF one aspires to be "world class", )
( what ever you do must be exercised )
( EVERY day . . . )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
---------------------------------------- "
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/25/07 |
Miguel Maia de Loureiro a crit :
>
> In the lower speed, in the higher speed, in gas and oil consuption, in
> weight, in less noise, parts prices, TBO hours, and global price...
> Jabiru is better than ROTAX... and Jabi is a kid that can fly full
> power constantly 'til stop few hours later; ROTAX is a grand-father
> who born to cut grass. Have you noticed the noise she makes at starts
> and shuting down 'cause of the reduction gears? It looks like my
> mother in law. It's a reliable engine with some caution. Everybody get
> used to it. Jab is another engine concept, made for fly. Some things i
> would like to see changed in Jabi, like cylinders AL alloy.
> *
> *
Miguel,
This is just to say there is no perfect engine.
Only engines that suit some definite set of requirements, with some
degree of proven reliability.
Reliability has something to do with the number of million flight hours
achieved.
There is no reason or no need to criticize the Rotax 91X engines to
establish the qualities of the Jabiru line of engines. Better stick with
facts.
If you need price, lightness, simplicity, fixed pitch, then the Jabiru
will be your choice.
As for power, the rated continuous power of the 3300 is 107 hp, so no
continuous full power, as with any aero engine.
Concerning the TBO, it takes many many engines reaching TBO before you
can be certain of the advertised numbers. And as you just told, the
Jabiru is still a young kid and building flight experience ;-)
By the way, what is wrong with the Rotax reduction gear ?
Regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Uncrating Engine |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Thanks guys,
I ordered the Homebuilthelp DVD and it arrived yesterday.....
Uncrating the engine is covered in the first 5 minutes of the video.
Thanks,
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99038#99038
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maintenance Munual for 3300 , solid valve lifters |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Rick,
If you look at Suncoast Sportplanes website, . They have both versions. The first
one is for Jabiru 3300 up through serial number 33A 960 and the second one
is for serial numbers above 33A 961.
--
Michael Crowder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101004#101004
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts |
| From: | "Terminator" <markwithers(at)absamail.co.za> |
Hi Chuck, I have flown a short time in a Jab 400 with a total time of 250hrs, here
in South Africa, with a good friend of mine. Three weeks ago we were in the
air at 2000ft ASL and fortunatly 5 miles from an arifield, when we heard a lowd
screech from the motor.
The noise stopped but we decided to land and inspect and gues what we saw ?!
Two sheared bolts!
I believe a Jab 80hp 2 seater had all 6 bolts sheer in Cape Town and now the preflight
procedure is to hold the fly wheel and turn the prop.
You will have noticed that washers have been placed on the bolts. This is simply
because the AMO was unable to tighten the bolts as they appeared to be too long,
although they are stock standard.
I will send this thread to the AMO, as you may have a good tip in your post.
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101185#101185
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0028_766.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts |
| From: | "rickpitcher" <zodie(at)adelphia.net> |
Terminator wrote:
> Hi Chuck, I have flown a short time in a Jab 400 with a total time of 250hrs,
here in South Africa, with a good friend of mine. Three weeks ago we were in
the air at 2000ft ASL and fortunatly 5 miles from an arifield, when we heard a
lowd screech from the motor.
>
> The noise stopped but we decided to land and inspect and gues what we saw ?!
>
> Two sheared bolts!
>
> I believe a Jab 80hp 2 seater had all 6 bolts sheer in Cape Town and now the
preflight procedure is to hold the fly wheel and turn the prop.
>
> You will have noticed that washers have been placed on the bolts. This is simply
because the AMO was unable to tighten the bolts as they appeared to be too
long, although they are stock standard.
>
> I will send this thread to the AMO, as you may have a good tip in your post.
>
> Mark
Looking at the photo, I have a couple of questions/comments?:
1) I see that the 2 bolts are NOT sheared, but appear to have backed out. The 2
are opposite each other as if the mecahanic was torquing in the standard "star
pattern" where we torque opposite sides progressively to equally spread the
tension, and the 2 opposite bolts were inadvertantly missed?
2) The pic shows some red stuff on the washer that your AME added. Is that loctite?
Curious because the loctite 620 that is called for in the service bulletin
is green, not red.
3) I don't see any evidence of loctite in the threads that are showing, my bolts
had a residue of loctite along the shank that had to be cleaned off before replacing
the bolts with a fresh coat of Loctite 620.
4) The washers under the heads bother seem odd. The new bolts were not the same
length as the originals?
Curious.
Rick Pitcher
Jabiru 3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101231#101231
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi,
Re the failed bolts it would be hepful to know if the SB had been done or if
they are original bolts at 250 hrs, and originally installed at the low torque,
for which the SB was issued to correct?
>From the photo I cannot tell if the bolts have sheared but this is likely as they
will shear at the crankshaft flange which is 1" in from the head.
Mention is made about washers. Standard fitting includes six belleville washers.
When I carried out the SB I hand threaded new bolts all the way without washers
to test for possible bottoming, and had no problems.
As for the colour of threadlock, only the SB and new engines use green 620, earlier
assembly would be red I expect - in my engine the old threadlock did not
have much colour and was only evident around the thread ends.
Seems like doing the SB or more will be less troublesome than replacing the alternator.
Regards, Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101272#101272
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT Probes on J3300 and Sonex |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
I'll be mounting the Jabiru 3300 on my Sonex in the next few weeks and wanted to
see if anyone has any words of advise about where to mount the 6 EGT probes
from and EIS. The Jabiru Manual states...
"Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) - Nominal 650 degrees C 750 degrees C (1202 degrees
F 1382 degrees F) measured 100mm from the exhaust manifold flange."
Is there going to be any problems making this work with the Sonex exhaust system?
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101746#101746
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap screws loose..2200 |
I am doing my annual (or condition inspection as it's called in
Experimental), and found the distributor cap screws loose today. It
might not be a bad idea for us engine owners to keep an eye on these
screws. Mine didn't seem to have any loctite applied to them. When I
get ready to reinstall them, I'll add some loctite to the screws, and
tighten, then apply some Sentry Seal for a quick visual check to see
if the screws loosen again. This inspection is with 237 hours on the
engine.
Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | EGT Probes on J3300 and Sonex |
Hi Mike
If possible mount your egt probes 4" down the exhaust pipe from the head.
If 4" is not possible I feel the next most important thing is that all the
probes are the same distance down the exhaust pipe from the head to get
equal readings on your gauge. Grand Rapids said if you can mount the probes
2" to 8" from the head and will work just fine.
Hope this helps you out.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, Ca 93711
Ph. 559-431-1701
Fax 559-277-3231
Web www.jabirupacific.com
Email Info(at)jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of sonex293
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and Sonex
I'll be mounting the Jabiru 3300 on my Sonex in the next few weeks and
wanted to see if anyone has any words of advise about where to mount the 6
EGT probes from and EIS. The Jabiru Manual states...
"Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) - Nominal 650 degrees C " 750 degrees C
(1202 degrees F " 1382 degrees F) measured 100mm from the exhaust manifold
flange."
Is there going to be any problems making this work with the Sonex exhaust
system?
--
Michael Crowder
Sonex #293
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101746#101746
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [jabiruengines] Info on signing up for Matronics |
-------- Message original --------
Sujet: Re: [jabiruengines] Info on signing up for Matronics
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 08:49:57 +0100
De: GTH
Rpondre : jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com
Pour: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com, jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Rfrences:
<025b01c76a9f$00ed8960$6501a8c0@fred3c53476y07>
<016e01c76ab9$9eb4ede0$6401a8c0@bigblack>
Rob Turk a crit :
> Sheez..... Just because of *THREE* spam e-mails just THIS YEAR everyone
> moves to Matronics?!? Are you all out of your mind or something?? .....
>
> Come on folkes, we're here to discuss the Jabiru engine, not those very few
> spam messages that happen to show up. People flying planes should act as
> childish as this.
>
>
Rob,
I've been on the two Jabiru engine lists from the very first day I
subscribed. No problem by me as to which provider or server we're on.
The Matronics suggestion is just a technical one.
There no need to be upset about which channel the messages are coming
through.
I'm cross-posting this, just to be sure...
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap screws loose..2200 |
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
Lynn,
I recommend using a drop of semi-permanent thread-locker (blue / Loctite 243 or
similar) on the cap screw threads.
Andy
--------
www.suncoastjabiru.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101839#101839
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap screws loose..2200 |
Right on, Andy, that's what I plan to do...then I'll apply the Sentry
Seal as a "monitoring" device.
Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200
On Mar 20, 2007, at 6:20 AM, Andy Silvester wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I recommend using a drop of semi-permanent thread-locker (blue /
> Loctite 243 or similar) on the cap screw threads.
>
> Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes on J3300 |
and Sonex
Jim:
Do you have the probes for the 2200?
Mil
3-20-07
Jim
My CH 701 build project is moving along well, now thinking about the
Jabiru 2200, and have some questions.
1. I want to purchase the complete FWF package with the 2200, prop,etc
etc. Total cost?
2. Will there be a delay after ordering?
3. If a delay, how long, and payment schedule required?
4. Usual shipping cost to this area ( Somerset is 50 miles east of
Sacramento)? I may pick it up.
Mil Reed
3-7-07
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Hulen" <hulens61(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocation from Yahoo |
Andy, Pete, Jim,
Thanks for taking the iniative to TRY to get the Yahoo Jabiru group here
where it belongs. I'm sure there will be turmoil for a while but with
you good dealers located here it will settle out before too long.
Fred Hulen
* I hope the guys moving over here will remember to use "Do not
archive"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap screws loose..2200 |
When I got to the right-hand side distributor, both cap screws were
sufficiently tight. However, I did see quite a bit of oil leakage
coming from the distributor shaft seal. I've ordered a couple of
shaft seals from Pete to take care of this problem. I also found a
rivet missing from the side of the Bing carb where the nameplate is
fastened on. (At 237 hours on this engine, that's not a bad report
card.)
At Pete's suggestion, I called Bing and they are sending me a new
rivet...free of charge (the man said he "thought he could afford it").
Not earth-shattering news folks, but every little bit helps the
"ratings". : )
Lynn
On Mar 20, 2007, at 6:20 AM, Andy Silvester wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I recommend using a drop of semi-permanent thread-locker (blue /
> Loctite 243 or similar) on the cap screw threads.
>
> Andy
>
> --------
> www.suncoastjabiru.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101839#101839
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocation from Yahoo |
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
Thanks, Lynn.
I try to get on the list every day and will do my best to respond where I think
it will be of help.
Cheers, Andy
--------
www.suncoastjabiru.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101940#101940
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts |
| From: | "Terminator" <markwithers(at)absamail.co.za> |
Thanks Jetboy and Ric,
interesting info, I will pass this on as you may have some good points in your
replies. Unfortunatly, this is not my aircraft and I do not have much knowlege
of it so I am only able to comment on what I have seen.
Incidently, the engine was removed and brought to Cape Town for repairs. They found
that 3 bolts had sheared and were doing the necessary upgrades re bolts and
locktite.
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102044#102044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes on J3300 |
and Sonex
Hi Mil
Which probes do you need for your engine? And what type of gauges are you
using?
The engine comes with the Oil temp and pressure senders from the factory.
If you need EGT or CHT Probes I can supply those for you.
The 2200 engine is 10900.00 the FWF kit is 3050.00, this kit comes with the
Jabiru nose bowl not a full cowl
My next available 2200 engine is in my August engine shipment, I require a
$1000 order payment and the engine paid in full when it leave Jabiru AU at
the beginning of August.
Please call any time with questions you may have.
Thank you.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Milburn
Reed
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 10:58 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes on
J3300 and Sonex
Jim:
Do you have the probes for the 2200?
Mil
3-20-07
Jim
My CH 701 build project is moving along well, now thinking about the
Jabiru 2200, and have some questions.
1. I want to purchase the complete FWF package with the 2200, prop,etc
etc. Total cost?
2. Will there be a delay after ordering?
3. If a delay, how long, and payment schedule required?
4. Usual shipping cost to this area ( Somerset is 50 miles east of
Sacramento)? I may pick it up.
Mil Reed
3-7-07
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts |
| From: | "rickpitcher" <zodie(at)adelphia.net> |
Hi Mark
I like your screen-name, it's the same name that our Governer goes by ;)
When I read your post a few days ago it prompted me to check with the RAANZ guys
about an alternate method of compliance that their tech officer said had been
approved (by himself) for compliance with the NZ CAA's flywheel bolt AD. The
method that he described sounded a little "hinkey" to me, so I emailed RAANZ
and NZ CAA to see how well the alternative method was proving out. Bad news....
seems the CAA didn't approve the modified fix after all. Any operator that has
"modified" the AD
process will need to redo the AD in compliance with the published
instructions.
Just a "heads up" for your friend to pass along to the shop that is fixing his
engine.
FWIW,
Rick Pitcher
Zenair Zodiac w/ Jab 3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102144#102144
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/02/06 |
| From: | "Peter H" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi Ed,
Just checking to see how you made out with the Aerocarb as I am also chasing a
leaner mixture at the bigger throttle openings?
Peter H
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102179#102179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
Hi All,
Jabiru USA has a shelf full of brand new Microair 760 transceivers. First
come first served at $750.00. Compare to Aircraft Spruce at $882. These
are the current versions and have all arrived here in the last three months.
Call Dana or Angie at 931-680-2800 for details.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes onJ3300 |
and Sonex
Jim:
I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH 701. I
will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
I tried Paypal to send the money but they responded that you were not
registered, but would sent to you. Shall I send a check instead.
Mil
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim(at)jabirupacific.com
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 12:42 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT
Probes onJ3300 and Sonex
Hi Mil
Which probes do you need for your engine? And what type of gauges are
you using?
The engine comes with the Oil temp and pressure senders from the
factory.
If you need EGT or CHT Probes I can supply those for you.
The 2200 engine is 10900.00 the FWF kit is 3050.00, this kit comes
with the Jabiru nose bowl not a full cowl
My next available 2200 engine is in my August engine shipment, I
require a $1000 order payment and the engine paid in full when it leave
Jabiru AU at the beginning of August.
Please call any time with questions you may have.
Thank you.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Milburn Reed
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 10:58 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT
Probes on J3300 and Sonex
Jim:
Do you have the probes for the 2200?
Mil
3-20-07
Jim
My CH 701 build project is moving along well, now thinking about the
Jabiru 2200, and have some questions.
1. I want to purchase the complete FWF package with the 2200,
prop,etc etc. Total cost?
2. Will there be a delay after ordering?
3. If a delay, how long, and payment schedule required?
4. Usual shipping cost to this area ( Somerset is 50 miles east of
Sacramento)? I may pick it up.
Mil Reed
3-7-07
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07 |
Mil,
What prop size and brand will you be getting?Chuck D.N701TX
Jab 2200
> From: "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes
> onJ3300
> and Sonex
>
> Jim:
> I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH 701. I
> will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07 |
chuck:
I was hoping you and others would tell me what prop would be best to get up
and out in a short distance as I would like.
Mil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07
>
> Mil,
> What prop size and brand will you be getting?Chuck D.N701TX
> Jab 2200
>
>> From: "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net>
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probes
>> onJ3300
>> and Sonex
>>
>> Jim:
>> I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH 701. I
>> will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07 |
Great efficiency prop? DUC with 60in dia. with 3 blades and 11=BA pitch ang
le.
Our Pioneer 200 can fly at 125 knots at 2800 RPM's, leveled, and roll less
than 100m on take-off with wind at Zero Knots, two persons on board and ful
l
tanks (57+ 17 Litres). Anyway, GT is looking forward an in-flight pitch
adjust prop for Jabs, and Sensnich have great props as well (as far as i
heard). Never seen one.
On 3/25/07, Milburn Reed wrote:
>
> milreed(at)directcon.net>
>
> chuck:
> I was hoping you and others would tell me what prop would be best to get
> up
> and out in a short distance as I would like.
> Mil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:46 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs -
> 03/24/07
>
>
> cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> >
> > Mil,
> > What prop size and brand will you be getting?Chuck D.N701TX
> > Jab 2200
> >
> >> From: "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net>
> >> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT Probe
s
> >> onJ3300
> >> and Sonex
> >>
> >> Jim:
> >> I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH 701.
I
> >> will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07 |
Miguel:
The Pioneer 200 looks like a fine aircraft. Where do you fly? Thanks for
the prop info.
Mil
----- Original Message -----
From: Miguel Maia de Loureiro
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs -
03/24/07
Great efficiency prop? DUC with 60in dia. with 3 blades and 11=BA
pitch angle. Our Pioneer 200 can fly at 125 knots at 2800 RPM's,
leveled, and roll less than 100m on take-off with wind at Zero Knots,
two persons on board and full tanks (57+ 17 Litres). Anyway, GT is
looking forward an in-flight pitch adjust prop for Jabs, and Sensnich
have great props as well (as far as i heard). Never seen one.
On 3/25/07, Milburn Reed wrote:
milreed(at)directcon.net>
chuck:
I was hoping you and others would tell me what prop would be best to
get up
and out in a short distance as I would like.
Mil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Deiterich" < cffd(at)pgrb.com>
To:
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs -
03/24/07
>
> Mil,
> What prop size and brand will you be getting?Chuck D.N701TX
> Jab 2200
>
>> From: "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net>
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT
Probes
>> onJ3300
>> and Sonex
>>
>> Jim:
>> I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH
701. I
>> will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
>> nics List Features Navigator to browse
ronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List"> ame great content now also
available via the Web Forums!
====================
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup |
It is amazing how little things can stop me cold. I'm installing the Dynon
Engine Management System (EMS) in my 601 with a Jabiru 3300A (solid
lifters). I'm installing the fuel flow sensor. The Dynon sensor has a 1/8
inch NPT male thread on it. I am using the Zenith supplied 1/4 Inch inside
diameter ( I know about using 3/8ths) fuel hose. Has anyone found a fitting
or set of fittings that has a female 1/8th NPT on one end and a hose barb on
the other? Dynon has not replied so far. Thanks .
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup |
Hi Jeff
So your looking for a 1/8 pipe female to a 1/4 or 3/8 male hose barb?
If you have a local hydraulic supply shop, they would most likely have a
fitting like that.
If you can't find one let me know and I'll check with mine.
Thank you
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 4:34 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com; jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup
It is amazing how little things can stop me cold. I'm installing the
Dynon Engine Management System (EMS) in my 601 with a Jabiru 3300A (solid
lifters). I'm installing the fuel flow sensor. The Dynon sensor has a 1/8
inch NPT male thread on it. I am using the Zenith supplied 1/4 Inch inside
diameter ( I know about using 3/8ths) fuel hose. Has anyone found a fitting
or set of fittings that has a female 1/8th NPT on one end and a hose barb on
the other? Dynon has not replied so far. Thanks .
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.P." <zodie(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup |
NAPA had all the hose barbs/1/8 pipe that I needed when I did the fuel
system on my 601. There's a NAPA almost everywhere. You can go to their
website and enter your Zip Code to find the nearest store
www.napaonline.com/
Rick Pitcher
601HD/Jab3300
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup
> Hi Jeff
> So your looking for a 1/8 pipe female to a 1/4 or 3/8 male hose barb?
> If you have a local hydraulic supply shop, they would most likely have a
> fitting like that.
> If you can't find one let me know and I'll check with mine.
>
> Thank you
>
> Jim McCormick
> Jabiru Pacific LLC
> 255 W Fallbrook 202B
> Fresno, CA 93711
> Office 559-431-1701
> Fax 559-233-3676
> www.jabirupacific.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 4:34 PM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com; jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup
>
>
> It is amazing how little things can stop me cold. I'm installing the
> Dynon Engine Management System (EMS) in my 601 with a Jabiru 3300A (solid
> lifters). I'm installing the fuel flow sensor. The Dynon sensor has a
> 1/8
> inch NPT male thread on it. I am using the Zenith supplied 1/4 Inch
> inside
> diameter ( I know about using 3/8ths) fuel hose. Has anyone found a
> fitting
> or set of fittings that has a female 1/8th NPT on one end and a hose barb
> on
> the other? Dynon has not replied so far. Thanks .
>
> Jeff Davidson
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11:07 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup |
Jeff I got all sorts of fittings and some made up by the local hydraulics
hose shop.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru fuel pressure sensor hookup
It is amazing how little things can stop me cold. I'm installing the Dynon
Engine Management System (EMS) in my 601 with a Jabiru 3300A (solid
lifters). I'm installing the fuel flow sensor. The Dynon sensor has a 1/8
inch NPT male thread on it. I am using the Zenith supplied 1/4 Inch inside
diameter ( I know about using 3/8ths) fuel hose. Has anyone found a fitting
or set of fittings that has a female 1/8th NPT on one end and a hose barb on
the other? Dynon has not replied so far. Thanks .
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/24/07 |
Mil,
I work with Jabiru and Alpi Aviation dealer for Portugal and Spain. At this
time P200 is inside a car shop, not for sale...
P300 is "more" airplane. I'm working on a P200... i'll show you later. I
usually fly near Lisbon in Portugal, 20NM North.
Sometimes at weekends we fly to Algarve, south of Portugal, or to
Guadalajara (North-East of Madrid)... Robledillo de
Monhernando to be precise. Wanna try?
Hugs. M!g
On 3/26/07, Milburn Reed wrote:
> Miguel:
> The Pioneer 200 looks like a fine aircraft. Where do you fly? Thanks for
> the prop info.
> Mil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Miguel Maia de Loureiro
> *To:* jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, March 26, 2007 1:47 PM
> *Subject:* Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs -
> 03/24/07
>
>
> Great efficiency prop? DUC with 60in dia. with 3 blades and 11=BA pitch
> angle. Our Pioneer 200 can fly at 125 knots at 2800 RPM's, leveled, and r
oll
> less than 100m on take-off with wind at Zero Knots, two persons on board
and
> full tanks (57+ 17 Litres). Anyway, GT is looking forward an in-flight pi
tch
> adjust prop for Jabs, and Sensnich have great props as well (as far as i
> heard). Never seen one.
>
>
> On 3/25/07, Milburn Reed wrote:
>
con.net
> > >
> >
> > chuck:
> > I was hoping you and others would tell me what prop would be best to ge
t
> > up
> > and out in a short distance as I would like.
> > Mil
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Deiterich" < cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:46 PM
> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs -
> > 03/24/07
> >
> >
> > cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> > >
> > > Mil,
> > > What prop size and brand will you be getting?Chuck D.N701TX
> > > Jab 2200
> > >
> > >> From: "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net>
> > >> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Probes on J3300 and SonexEGT
> > Probes
> > >> onJ3300
> > >> and Sonex
> > >>
> > >> Jim:
> > >> I wish to place an order for the 2200 and the FWF kit for the CH 701
.
> > I
> > >> will need a prop for the best angle of climb.
> > >> nics List Features Navigator to browse
> > ronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List"> ame great content now also
> > available via the Web Forums! =============
=======
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Miguel Maia de Loureiro
> Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
> Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
> e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete" <pete(at)flylightning.net> |
| Subject: | RE: [jabiruengines] Pete please read this about my |
EGT probes
Allen,
I don't know what the temps would be as we've never placed them that close.
Perhaps someone else on the list has placed their probes closer to the heads
than the 100mm recommended and could shed some light on their temp
experience.
Pete
_____
From: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of allenssixchuter
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 3:17 PM
Subject: [jabiruengines] Pete please read this about my EGT probes
What would the egt readings be if the probes are too close to the
exhaust flange my are mounted at about 50 mm and my egts are to high
according to the specs they should be about 1380 they are reading
about 1480 I will have to fabricate a new cabin heat muff and a new
carb heat muff if i have too move the probes for i built mine too pull
heat off the downpipes would it be safe to just bump the operating
range up 100 degrees Thanks Allen
__._,_.___
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__,_._,___
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skypics234(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: [jabiruengines] Pete please read this about |
my EGT...
Allen:
Not only does the distance from the exhaust flange affect the reading, but
also the tip of the probe should be in the center of the exhaust pipe.
In other words...
If the probe is inserted to deep or too shallow the temps will be lower.
Personally I believe your EGT is acceptable if 1480 is all you get with it
being 1/2 the distance called for. Assuming this is your hottest and it is in
lean cruise.
My number 4 runs As high as 1500 in lean cruise 2600-2800 RPM.
John M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Haas" <checkpoint2(at)comcast.net> |
Hello, I have flown an Alpi pioneer 200 for over 225 hours
Serial No. 43. In Southwest Florida. Only complaint
the airspeed is always in the yellow above 2900 rpm. It is very light and
gives a rough ride in light turbulence.
I am using a Sensenich ground adjustable set at 20' . Red line 3300 gives
around 110 Kts, level at 1,000 Ft.
Does any body talk to the Factory?
I am not used to this Matronics and find navigating it by luck.
Bob Haas N380BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
Bob,
What is it that you need the factory for? Perhaps we can help? Do you mean
the Jabiru factory or the Alpi Pioneer factory?
Pete
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Haas
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List:
Hello, I have flown an Alpi pioneer 200 for over 225 hours
Serial No. 43. In Southwest Florida. Only complaint
the airspeed is always in the yellow above 2900 rpm. It is very light and
gives a rough ride in light turbulence.
I am using a Sensenich ground adjustable set at 20' . Red line 3300 gives
around 110 Kts, level at 1,000 Ft.
Does any body talk to the Factory?
I am not used to this Matronics and find navigating it by luck.
Bob Haas N380BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine-List: |
> Hi Bob,
>
> My sugestion is to adjust prop pitch to a thicker angle so Max RPM's drop
to 3000 or 3100. Use cruise RPM's as 2400 or something. The P200 i'm used t
o
fly runs at 2800 to reach 125Knots with DUC prop. Anyway, i can talk with
Mr. Corrado, the Alpi owner (N=BA1 Pioneer Team) and ask him for other
sugestions. I reather fly at 2100 or 2200 RPM's, with my prop pich, at 100
Knots. It's more confortable and nothing expensive (10L/h Unlead 100oct).
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim wilson" <jimwolfe(at)hevanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/02/07 |
Hi Chris,
Yes, I looked at the windows and spoke with Ken, the owner and fellow who
looked at our building.
Have changed my thinking on several points. Think we should proceed but
with the vinyl windows instead. Less upkeep and much better drains for
getting rid of water. But have to choose between a sand color and white.
While I prefer the sand color we have white on the west side of the house on
the large windows that I installed.
If we go with the vinyl, and that seems a no brainer to me we can use the
$300 saved to get the front door. I was very impressed by what I saw. It
is all aluminum, with two closing devices and has a deadbolt. But I think
we should get one with a solid panel below and the glass above. It is more
practical, costs only $30 more and we will not be forever trying to wipe
smudge marks off it. So that would be $500 installed but should last 15
years minimum.
Very impressed by Ken. Low key guy, very knowledgeable and helpful. Spent
about 20 minutes with him this AM.
That front door is very weather tight, all aluminum and secure. We do have
to get people to shut it fully so the wind can't grab it.
He also said that if our large vinyl windows on the west side are Milgard he
may be able to do something about that on warranty. He said he would look
at them when he is there. The seals are failed on a couple of those, I
believe.
Hope Janine is doing well and you get enough information to decide upn a
plan of action. Please say hi and give her my regards. She is a great
lady.
Will ponder this sand color vs white regarding the vinyl . Please run it by
everyone else. Probably should just go with the white as we already have
white vinyl on the west side.
Best regards,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "JabiruEngine-List Digest Server" <jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 11:57 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/02/07
> *
>
> =================================================
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> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
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> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
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>
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>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-04-02&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-04-02&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 04/02/07: 0
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
Hi Bob,
Somehow I don't think you are complaining about the performance of your
Alpi
Pioneer! A great airplane, but in my experience with Alpi factory
installations yours is performing well IN SPITE of their efforts!
See you at Sun N Fun, hopefully.
Cheers, Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Haas
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:27 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List:
Hello, I have flown an Alpi pioneer 200 for over 225 hours
Serial No. 43. In Southwest Florida. Only complaint
the airspeed is always in the yellow above 2900 rpm. It is very light
and
gives a rough ride in light turbulence.
I am using a Sensenich ground adjustable set at 20' . Red line 3300
gives
around 110 Kts, level at 1,000 Ft.
Does any body talk to the Factory?
I am not used to this Matronics and find navigating it by
luck.
Bob Haas N380BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Haas" <checkpoint2(at)comcast.net> |
Hey Pete! I mean the Alpi group. Andy and I communicate when needed. Hope
to see you at S&F. Bob.
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jabiru
USA
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List:
Bob,
What is it that you need the factory for? Perhaps we can help? Do you mean
the Jabiru factory or the Alpi Pioneer factory?
Pete
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Haas
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List:
Hello, I have flown an Alpi pioneer 200 for over 225 hours
Serial No. 43. In Southwest Florida. Only complaint
the airspeed is always in the yellow above 2900 rpm. It is very light and
gives a rough ride in light turbulence.
I am using a Sensenich ground adjustable set at 20' . Red line 3300 gives
around 110 Kts, level at 1,000 Ft.
Does any body talk to the Factory?
I am not used to this Matronics and find navigating it by luck.
Bob Haas N380BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Haas" <checkpoint2(at)comcast.net> |
Ahh Rog!
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Silvester
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List:
Hi Bob,
Somehow I don't think you are complaining about the performance of your Alpi
Pioneer! A great airplane, but in my experience with Alpi factory
installations yours is performing well IN SPITE of their efforts!
See you at Sun N Fun, hopefully.
Cheers, Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Haas
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:27 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List:
Hello, I have flown an Alpi pioneer 200 for over 225 hours
Serial No. 43. In Southwest Florida. Only complaint
the airspeed is always in the yellow above 2900 rpm. It is very light and
gives a rough ride in light turbulence.
I am using a Sensenich ground adjustable set at 20' . Red line 3300 gives
around 110 Kts, level at 1,000 Ft.
Does any body talk to the Factory?
I am not used to this Matronics and find navigating it by luck.
Bob Haas N380BH.
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Haas
Lists: JabiruEngine-List
Subject: Sensenich Ground Adjustable Prop
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/checkpoint2@comcast.net.05.07.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Sensenich Prop -JabiruEngine-List |
Thanks for the pic, Bob.
I have been thinking of replacing my fixed pitched Sensenich on my
Jab3300/Zodiac XL with a Sensenich Adjustable.
How easy/hard is it to change the pitch on the prop?
Tony Graziano
Zodiac 601XL N493TG; 231 hrs
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
> Available!
> From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Bob Haas
>
> Lists: JabiruEngine-List
>
> Subject: Sensenich Ground Adjustable Prop
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/checkpoint2@comcast.net.05.07.2007/index.html
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Well, try this one on for size:
I have had to adjust my valve clearance several times recently, and
when I did it a few days ago, I found brass-colored metallic
particles inside one of the valve covers. I removed the oil filter
and cut it apart and found a few specks of the same material in the
filter. I removed the rocker shaft from the head to inspect the
rocker arm bushings, and found them in very poor shape, having lost
their teflon coating on the bottom of the bushing, and exposing the
sintered brass backing. The shafts are in good shape, slightly
discolored, but not worn.
Anybody else have a problem with valve lash? If you do, there's a
good chance that the bushings are worn, causing the lash to increase.
I did some research on the bushings, and found that they will
withstand over 400 degrees F, but could find no specs on how much
pressure the bushings will endure.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 8, 2007, at 10:06 AM, Fred Hulen wrote:
>
>
>> We are out here. Just we just have nothing important to say right
>> now.
>> > Bob Tezyk
>
>
> ++ Yep, we're out here waiting for something earth-shaking to
> respond to!
>
> Fred 280 hours 3300/Zenith 601HDS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Lynn, nice to hear a voice or two on this list. How many hours on that
engine and what oil have you been using? (I have only 25hours but counting)
Regards
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
Well, try this one on for size:
I have had to adjust my valve clearance several times recently, and
when I did it a few days ago, I found brass-colored metallic
particles inside one of the valve covers. I removed the oil filter
and cut it apart and found a few specks of the same material in the
filter. I removed the rocker shaft from the head to inspect the
rocker arm bushings, and found them in very poor shape, having lost
their teflon coating on the bottom of the bushing, and exposing the
sintered brass backing. The shafts are in good shape, slightly
discolored, but not worn.
Anybody else have a problem with valve lash? If you do, there's a
good chance that the bushings are worn, causing the lash to increase.
I did some research on the bushings, and found that they will
withstand over 400 degrees F, but could find no specs on how much
pressure the bushings will endure.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 8, 2007, at 10:06 AM, Fred Hulen wrote:
>
>
>> We are out here. Just we just have nothing important to say right
>> now.
>> > Bob Tezyk
>
>
> ++ Yep, we're out here waiting for something earth-shaking to
> respond to!
>
> Fred 280 hours 3300/Zenith 601HDS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milburn Reed" <milreed(at)directcon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
What prompted you to check ? Noisy, or was it a routine check. Keep it
going.
Mil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
>
> Lynn, nice to hear a voice or two on this list. How many hours on that
> engine and what oil have you been using? (I have only 25hours but
> counting)
> Regards
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 7:15 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
> Available!
>
>
> Well, try this one on for size:
>
> I have had to adjust my valve clearance several times recently, and
> when I did it a few days ago, I found brass-colored metallic
> particles inside one of the valve covers. I removed the oil filter
> and cut it apart and found a few specks of the same material in the
> filter. I removed the rocker shaft from the head to inspect the
> rocker arm bushings, and found them in very poor shape, having lost
> their teflon coating on the bottom of the bushing, and exposing the
> sintered brass backing. The shafts are in good shape, slightly
> discolored, but not worn.
> Anybody else have a problem with valve lash? If you do, there's a
> good chance that the bushings are worn, causing the lash to increase.
> I did some research on the bushings, and found that they will
> withstand over 400 degrees F, but could find no specs on how much
> pressure the bushings will endure.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/275+ hrs
>
>
> On May 8, 2007, at 10:06 AM, Fred Hulen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>> We are out here. Just we just have nothing important to say right
>>> now.
>>> > Bob Tezyk
>>
>>
>> ++ Yep, we're out here waiting for something earth-shaking to
>> respond to!
>>
>> Fred 280 hours 3300/Zenith 601HDS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
I've been here since day one, but have held off posting much of
anything on this group (I also watch the Yahoo one) until now...lack
of anything to write about. But I've got a couple of issues to talk
about...more later.
I've got about 280 hours on it since it was first flown about 13
months ago. I used the mineral oil break-in oil recommended, then
switched to Aeroshell 100W after that. During the winter I used
Aeroshell 15W-50. I've always changed the oil at 25-30 hours, with
the filter.
I enjoy the engine very much, and try not to bad-mouth it, but
recently I've had a couple of disturbing incidents. Anybody looked
inside their distributor caps lately?
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 8, 2007, at 5:17 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> Lynn, nice to hear a voice or two on this list. How many hours on that
> engine and what oil have you been using? (I have only 25hours but
> counting)
> Regards
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 7:15 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo
> Share
> Available!
>
>
>
> Well, try this one on for size:
>
> I have had to adjust my valve clearance several times recently, and
> when I did it a few days ago, I found brass-colored metallic
> particles inside one of the valve covers. I removed the oil filter
> and cut it apart and found a few specks of the same material in the
> filter. I removed the rocker shaft from the head to inspect the
> rocker arm bushings, and found them in very poor shape, having lost
> their teflon coating on the bottom of the bushing, and exposing the
> sintered brass backing. The shafts are in good shape, slightly
> discolored, but not worn.
> Anybody else have a problem with valve lash? If you do, there's a
> good chance that the bushings are worn, causing the lash to increase.
> I did some research on the bushings, and found that they will
> withstand over 400 degrees F, but could find no specs on how much
> pressure the bushings will endure.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/275+ hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
After just the suggested checking at the proscribed hour, and
checking during the suggested head torque period, it came to me that
the engine was running more roughly...vibrating, actually...and
knowing engines as I do, I knew this could be caused by a cylinder
being off on valve lash. (If cylinders are dissimilar in their valve
lash, the power output is affected, hence it runs rough or vibrates.
It's a whole lot more noticeable on a 4-cylinder than on a higher
number of cylinders) After a lash re-setting, the engine ran fine.
When I found the brassy-colored particles the other day, inside the
rocker cover, and then "fingering" the rocker arms for slop, I
decided to pull the rocker shafts and have a look at the bushings.
What I found was a loss of the teflon coating where the arm contacts
the rocker shaft. I took the parts to an engine-knowledgeable person
locally, and he immediately recognized the bearing material as a DU
bearing material...do a google search for DU and read the interesting
history about this technology.
When I contacted my dealer, he said that apparently there is no
problem in the history of the Jabiru line of engines.
Perhaps there is no problem, but I've seen what my bearings look like
and I don't like the looks, and will be changing bushings soon. Since
I am out of warranty, I don't expect Jabiru to do anything for me, so
I'm taking the repair into my own hands.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 8, 2007, at 6:39 PM, Milburn Reed wrote:
>
>
> What prompted you to check ? Noisy, or was it a routine check. Keep
> it going.
> Mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a perfect
static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
engine.
Peter J3300 25hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
After just the suggested checking at the proscribed hour, and
checking during the suggested head torque period, it came to me that
the engine was running more roughly...vibrating, actually...and
knowing engines as I do, I knew this could be caused by a cylinder
being off on valve lash. (If cylinders are dissimilar in their valve
lash, the power output is affected, hence it runs rough or vibrates.
It's a whole lot more noticeable on a 4-cylinder than on a higher
number of cylinders) After a lash re-setting, the engine ran fine.
When I found the brassy-colored particles the other day, inside the
rocker cover, and then "fingering" the rocker arms for slop, I
decided to pull the rocker shafts and have a look at the bushings.
What I found was a loss of the teflon coating where the arm contacts
the rocker shaft. I took the parts to an engine-knowledgeable person
locally, and he immediately recognized the bearing material as a DU
bearing material...do a google search for DU and read the interesting
history about this technology.
When I contacted my dealer, he said that apparently there is no
problem in the history of the Jabiru line of engines.
Perhaps there is no problem, but I've seen what my bearings look like
and I don't like the looks, and will be changing bushings soon. Since
I am out of warranty, I don't expect Jabiru to do anything for me, so
I'm taking the repair into my own hands.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 8, 2007, at 6:39 PM, Milburn Reed wrote:
>
>
> What prompted you to check ? Noisy, or was it a routine check. Keep
> it going.
> Mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
What kind/make prop? Mine's a Sensenich, and was smooth running from
the git-go. My engine started out smooth as silk, but over the hours
got mild vibration due to the valve lash loosening. After each new
setting, back to smooth again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 12:10 AM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a
> perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Hulen" <hulens61(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
++ Hey Peter, please tell me more about the particular process you went
through to dynamically balance your prop. I went to a specialty place to
have mine done but after about an hour of applying sensors and getting all
of their equipment ready to actually do it, the guy asked that I run the
engine at 2500 rpm for 5 minutes! My cooling is just fine in normal
operations but there's no way could I sit there on the ground and run it at
2500 rpms for 5 minutes without getting too hot. Please tell me some of the
particulars when you had yours done.
Thanks
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Valve rocker shaft / bearing wear |
Andy-
Yes, that problem has been cured. New seals, new caps and rotors, and
a little product call "Speedi Sleeve". I also drilled a hole in the
lower area of each cap so I could feel there and see if the fix was
still working.
In the email to you, Pete, and Jim, I ended with "I have pictures
available" (or something like that), and Jim responded that he would
like to see them. I sent to him, and CC'd you and Pete. They were
sent via Kodak EasyShare. If you'd like to see them, holler. I sent
them about 3/24/2007 or thereabouts.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 1:27 PM, Andy Silvester wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> You seem to have done all that is necessary in investigating and
> remedying
> the problem.
>
> I note your email about distributor shaft scoring where the oil
> seals ride,
> but there were no pictures. I don't have a 'quick fix' for that issue
> either; it's certainly not a usual occurrence - either oil leaking
> past the
> seal or scoring of the shaft by the seal, and certainly not at the
> hours you
> have. Those seals are usually pretty good but my guess is the one
> that was
> leaking must have been damaged - maybe from new, and the one that
> scored the
> other shaft had picked-up an abrasive particle in the seal.
> Unlikely? Yes,
> but possible. I've seen many bearing / shaft instances where the
> (relatively
> soft) bearing is in good condition, yet the (much harder) shaft has
> been
> worn down. This is due to abrasive particles bedding into the soft
> bearing
> (or in your case seal) material, and cutting away at the harder shaft.
> Again, it seems you were unlucky in having these issues but no
> doubt you
> have rectified them.
>
> Andy
>
> Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
> 39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
> Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
> www.suncoastjabiru.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Lynn
My prop is from Ed Sterba and I have been trimming it, also there were
issues with the spinner backing plate. But my experience proved that static
balance was not enough. It was not until dynamic balance that I discovered
how smooth is smooth.
By valve lash do you mean that the tappet clearances were regularly becoming
uneven?
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
What kind/make prop? Mine's a Sensenich, and was smooth running from
the git-go. My engine started out smooth as silk, but over the hours
got mild vibration due to the valve lash loosening. After each new
setting, back to smooth again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 12:10 AM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a
> perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Peter,
Where did you attach the weights to the prop or spinner to balance it? How
much weight did it take? We are about to go into the dynamic balancing
business and are not sure just yet as to where to attach the weights.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Harris
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
Lynn
My prop is from Ed Sterba and I have been trimming it, also there were
issues with the spinner backing plate. But my experience proved that static
balance was not enough. It was not until dynamic balance that I discovered
how smooth is smooth.
By valve lash do you mean that the tappet clearances were regularly becoming
uneven?
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
What kind/make prop? Mine's a Sensenich, and was smooth running from
the git-go. My engine started out smooth as silk, but over the hours
got mild vibration due to the valve lash loosening. After each new
setting, back to smooth again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 12:10 AM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a
> perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
I haven't sent them out yet, Pete, but I will. They will be via Kodak
EasyShare. I'll even send them to you, Andy and Jim separately, just
in case Kodak doesn't understand CC'ing.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 3:44 PM, Jabiru USA wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I've been looking through past emails and do not see one from you with
> photos of the rocker shaft or bushing.
>
> Pete Krotje
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDRead(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cam shaft bearings |
Hello Listers:
The Glacier DU online catalog has all of the application and spec info.
In a past life I used a lot of these bearings with out any problems. They are
similar to an Oilite sintered bronze bearing except the "spaces" on the DU
are infiltrated with teflon which should provide good boundary layer
lubrication if there is brief oil starvation. One problem with oscillating bearings
is
to get adequate lubrication into the bearing, direct pressure feed is to be
preferred over splash lubrication. The latest Jabiru engines have hydraulic
lifters so I suppose there is a real need to examine the engine oil for
particles as there theoretically there will be zero tappet clearance.
Regards, John Read
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Pete the maintenance shop here did the job and they have a lot of experience
with the equipment, using electronic equipment which they said cost $6000. A
vibration sensor is attached to the engine near centre front just behind the
prop. A laser is fitted where it will see the reflection from tape on the
prop. The two inputs establish weight and position. The control unit is
attached to the sensor and laser by long leads. The backing disc for the
spinner was indexed and I ran the engine up to 2700 rpm and the first read
out called up weights and a location. At this stage washers were selected
and weighed using a very sensitive electronic scale part of the kit which
measures to .01 G . The washers were fitted for convenience to the nearest
spinner attach screw and we ran again twice more with small adjustments to
the weights, then we calculated by proportion how much weight to fix at a
convenient hidden point at a smaller radius inside the backing plate. From
memory it took about 1.5G which we did with a short bolt and some washers
weighed using the e scale.
What impressed me was how much smoother it bran right from the first
addition. I think it is a good starting point for the flywheel bolts job.I
think your customers will be happy with the result. It took about 45min.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jabiru
USA
Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 7:44 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
Peter,
Where did you attach the weights to the prop or spinner to balance it? How
much weight did it take? We are about to go into the dynamic balancing
business and are not sure just yet as to where to attach the weights.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Harris
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
Lynn
My prop is from Ed Sterba and I have been trimming it, also there were
issues with the spinner backing plate. But my experience proved that static
balance was not enough. It was not until dynamic balance that I discovered
how smooth is smooth.
By valve lash do you mean that the tappet clearances were regularly becoming
uneven?
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Wednesday, 9 May 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
What kind/make prop? Mine's a Sensenich, and was smooth running from
the git-go. My engine started out smooth as silk, but over the hours
got mild vibration due to the valve lash loosening. After each new
setting, back to smooth again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 12:10 AM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a
> perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Hi Fred,
I covered most of the details in my post to Pete . From the point of view of
overheating it was not really an issue. I had the cowls off and each run up
was for only a minute or so, then there was down time for interpreting the
results, selecting and weighing the weights etc. and I switched off for
this. There was a total of 3 power runs and the whole job took about 45
mins. I would guess that 50% of the time was down time devoted to selecting
and weighing and adding the weights.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hulen
Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: [ Bob Haas ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
> I got a vast improvement in smooth running when I had my wooden prop
> dynamically balanced even though I had spent hours to achieve a perfect
> static balance. When the dynamic weights were added it was like a new
> engine.
> Peter J3300 25hrs
++ Hey Peter, please tell me more about the particular process you went
through to dynamically balance your prop. I went to a specialty place to
have mine done but after about an hour of applying sensors and getting all
of their equipment ready to actually do it, the guy asked that I run the
engine at 2500 rpm for 5 minutes! My cooling is just fine in normal
operations but there's no way could I sit there on the ground and run it at
2500 rpms for 5 minutes without getting too hot. Please tell me some of the
particulars when you had yours done.
Thanks
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cam shaft bearings |
I've just downloaded the 55 pages of the Designer's Handbook from
Glacier Garlock Bearings, here in the USA. Even though the
publication is written in my native English, it all looks like Greek
to me. : ) But I'll study it and see if I can determine why my
bushings might have failed so early. It seems to me on first look
that there needs to be better lube, less mechanical pressure for the
size of the bushing area, or different bushing material. I have
already dreamed up a method for pressure-lubing the area, but so far
that is just dreaming.
It seems to me that an oscillating bushing of this size, under the
load that a rocker arm endures, begs for the best possible
lubrication versus materials compatibility.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 9, 2007, at 11:12 PM, JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hello Listers:
> The Glacier DU online catalog has all of the application and
> spec info. In a past life I used a lot of these bearings with out
> any problems. They are similar to an Oilite sintered bronze bearing
> except the "spaces" on the DU are infiltrated with teflon which
> should provide good boundary layer lubrication if there is brief
> oil starvation. One problem with oscillating bearings is to get
> adequate lubrication into the bearing, direct pressure feed is to
> be preferred over splash lubrication. The latest Jabiru engines
> have hydraulic lifters so I suppose there is a real need to examine
> the engine oil for particles as there theoretically there will be
> zero tappet clearance.
>
> Regards, John Read
>
>
> See what's free at AOL.com.
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List _-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | New rocker arm bushings in |
So far so good on the new rocker arm bushings in my 2200. I installed
them yesterday, but was finishing up building an oil cooler tunnel,
so I wasn't able to fly it until today. I'd like to report gobs of
new horsepower, but this isn't the case...just back to the normal,
smooth operation. Gonna check the wear and the valve clearance in
15-20 hours, to see if I can find any changes, before I take it
across the country at the end of the month.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in |
In a message dated 5/11/2007 5:41:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lynnmatt(at)jps.net writes:
So far so good on the new rocker arm bushings in my 2200. I installed
them yesterday, but was finishing up building an oil cooler tunnel,
so I wasn't able to fly it until today. I'd like to report gobs of
new horsepower, but this isn't the case...just back to the normal,
smooth operation. Gonna check the wear and the valve clearance in
15-20 hours, to see if I can find any changes, before I take it
across the country at the end of the month.
Was there much of a difference between the old bushings and the new ones?
Doug Koenigsberg
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in |
Will do, Pete, and coming from you, that's good encouragement...thanks.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 12, 2007, at 11:47 AM, Jabiru USA wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> Please do keep us informed on how the new bushings work. I think your
> approach is right on.
>
> Pete Krotje
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 6:25 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: New rocker arm bushings in
>
>
>
> Well, the old bushings were a teflon-coated bronze over a steel shell
> (TPFE, I believe they are known as) and for whatever reason, they
> failed at...or at least I discovered them failed at...273 hours. I
> decided not to replace them with the original style bushings, because
> I don't know the history of how these bushings hold up under the
> splash-lubricated, high-pressure (the valve spring), environment they
> operate in. Now to be perfectly honest, maybe nobody else has had a
> problem with these bushings, but I did, so I elected to try my own
> "shade-tree engineering" and put in oilite bronze bushings. In doing
> so, I decided to supplement the oil that ordinarily makes its way
> into the side of the standard bushings. The standard bushings are
> allowed (according to my owners manual) .004"-.010" side clearance. I
> did not change this, but I did drill a .093" hole vertically into the
> rocker arm, at exactly the 12 o'clock position of the rocker arm.
> This will allow the oil a chance to run into the hole and help lube
> the bushing.
>
> If anybody cares, I'll continue to report how I installed the
> bushings. They came 16mm wide and the rocker arm is 15mm, so I
> shortened them on my lathe. I had pressed the old bushings out, and
> after drilling the rocker arms for the oiling holes, I drilled the
> bushing oil holes a little larger, then pressed them into place,
> keeping the alignment of the holes in mind. They all came out aligned
> as hoped, and then I had to ream the bushings to the size suggested
> in the owners manual... .474"-.475". This provides for 2-3
> thousandths oil clearance for the .472" shaft. I then swapped the
> rocker shafts side-for-side, to enable the new bushings to ride on
> the un-used part of the shaft. I also chamfered the sides of the new
> bushings to further allow oil to make its way into the oil space
> provided between the shaft and arm.
>
> I've got to further say that I don't know squat about teflon in
> engine bearings...my only use of teflon (that I know of) is frying
> eggs in a pan....low (relative) heat, no pressure, and the eggs taste
> fine. I wouldn't have eaten eggs cooked on the teflon that was
> visible inside the removed bushings...they looked like the frypan had
> been attacked with a steel spatula, if you'll permit me the kitchen
> analogy. : )
>
> Again, I'm not saying that Jabiru made a mistake, maybe I just got a
> lemon, and if my "fix" doesn't work out, I will have no apologies to
> make. My engine is in a Kitfox Model IV *experimental* airplane, and
> that's JUST what I'm doing...experimenting.
>
> Lynn Matteson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in - Lynn |
Lynn:
Oil cooler tunnel? What do you mean? Have pictures? By the way, I saw pictures
of your plane on the Kitfox site. Looks great!!!
Jose
----- Original Message ----
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 5:42:57 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: New rocker arm bushings in
So far so good on the new rocker arm bushings in my 2200. I installed
them yesterday, but was finishing up building an oil cooler tunnel,
so I wasn't able to fly it until today. I'd like to report gobs of
new horsepower, but this isn't the case...just back to the normal,
smooth operation. Gonna check the wear and the valve clearance in
15-20 hours, to see if I can find any changes, before I take it
across the country at the end of the month.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in - Lynn |
Thanks, Jose.
The tunnel (for want of a better name) is just a 3-sided box that
channels the incoming air through the oil cooler and under the oil
pan (sump). I'll try to post it here on the site, but if I can't make
it fly, I'll send it your way, Jose.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 12, 2007, at 6:06 PM, Jose M. Toro wrote:
>
>
> Lynn:
>
> Oil cooler tunnel? What do you mean? Have pictures? By the way,
> I saw pictures of your plane on the Kitfox site. Looks great!!!
>
> Jose
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 5:42:57 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: New rocker arm bushings in
>
>
>
>
> So far so good on the new rocker arm bushings in my 2200. I installed
> them yesterday, but was finishing up building an oil cooler tunnel,
> so I wasn't able to fly it until today. I'd like to report gobs of
> new horsepower, but this isn't the case...just back to the normal,
> smooth operation. Gonna check the wear and the valve clearance in
> 15-20 hours, to see if I can find any changes, before I take it
> across the country at the end of the month.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in - Lynn |
Thanks!
----- Original Message ----
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:00:07 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: New rocker arm bushings in - Lynn
Thanks, Jose.
The tunnel (for want of a better name) is just a 3-sided box that
channels the incoming air through the oil cooler and under the oil
pan (sump). I'll try to post it here on the site, but if I can't make
it fly, I'll send it your way, Jose.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 12, 2007, at 6:06 PM, Jose M. Toro wrote:
>
>
> Lynn:
>
> Oil cooler tunnel? What do you mean? Have pictures? By the way,
> I saw pictures of your plane on the Kitfox site. Looks great!!!
>
> Jose
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 5:42:57 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: New rocker arm bushings in
>
>
>
>
> So far so good on the new rocker arm bushings in my 2200. I installed
> them yesterday, but was finishing up building an oil cooler tunnel,
> so I wasn't able to fly it until today. I'd like to report gobs of
> new horsepower, but this isn't the case...just back to the normal,
> smooth operation. Gonna check the wear and the valve clearance in
> 15-20 hours, to see if I can find any changes, before I take it
> across the country at the end of the month.
>
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in - Lynn |
Here's an attempt at posting a picture of my oil cooler tunnel/baffle/
whatever you want to call it. The black rubber seal contacts the
sliding air valve that I built last winter. I left the tunnel a
little long at the back in case I wanted to shroud it from the
muffler, etc. The sliding valve allows for faster warm-ups, but may
be too restrictive for hot weather operation. If it is, I'll remove
it before heading west. Then the cowl opening will just dump the air
into the tunnel. The cable operates the sliding valve, which is out
of sight in the lower cowl.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
=EF=BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New rocker arm bushings in |
Thanks for recalling that info, Noel. A V8 camshaft (if it's a 90 V
or thereabouts) is another case where the load is all centered in one
small area...the bottom of the bearing takes all the pressure from
the valve springs, as the rocker arm tries to lift the valve. At
least this is my memory of all the V8's that I've worked on. Now an
opposed engine would have equal load on both "sides" of the cam, so
wouldn't have this problem. I haven't really been around any of the
later engineering on engines so I don't know what the guys and gals
have come up with lately.
I now have about 6 hours on the new bushings, so in a few more days,
I'll have a look and see how things are holding up. It won't be a
very long-hour test, but unless it's a complete failure, I should
rest a bit easier for the "big trip."
One question, though...was it the lobes that were Teflon-coated, or
just the bearing surfaces, or both?
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/275+ hrs
On May 14, 2007, at 9:37 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> Lynn regarding the Teflon coating:
>
> Years ago GM tried Teflon coated camshafts in the 304 V8 engines.
> They were plagued with camshaft problems until the Teflon coating
> was ditched. One thing about Teflon, as strong as it is chemically
> its also physically weak and brittle.
>
> Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
> Campbellton, Newfoundland,
> Canada
> Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
> Aerocet 1100s
> noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca
>
>
> > Behalf Of Lynn
> > Matteson
> > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 6:25 PM
> > Well, the old bushings were a Teflon-coated bronze over a
> > steel shell
> > (TPFE, I believe they are known as) and for whatever reason, they
> > failed at...or at least I discovered them failed at...273 hours. I
> > decided not to replace them with the original style bushings,
> > because
> > I don't know the history of how these bushings hold up under the
> > splash-lubricated, high-pressure (the valve spring),
> > environment they
> > operate in. Now to be perfectly honest, maybe nobody else has had a
> > problem with these bushings, but I did, so I elected to try my own
> > "shade-tree engineering" and put in oilite bronze bushings. In doing
> > so, I decided to supplement the oil that ordinarily makes its way
> > into the side of the standard bushings. The standard bushings are
> > allowed (according to my owners manual) .004"-.010" side
> > clearance. I
> > did not change this, but I did drill a .093" hole vertically
> > into the
> > rocker arm, at exactly the 12 o'clock position of the rocker arm.
> > This will allow the oil a chance to run into the hole and help lube
> > the bushing.
> >
> > If anybody cares, I'll continue to report how I installed the
> > bushings. They came 16mm wide and the rocker arm is 15mm, so I
> > shortened them on my lathe. I had pressed the old bushings out, and
> > after drilling the rocker arms for the oiling holes, I drilled the
> > bushing oil holes a little larger, then pressed them into place,
> > keeping the alignment of the holes in mind. They all came out
> > aligned
> > as hoped, and then I had to ream the bushings to the size suggested
> > in the owners manual... .474"-.475". This provides for 2-3
> > thousandths oil clearance for the .472" shaft. I then swapped the
> > rocker shafts side-for-side, to enable the new bushings to ride on
> > the un-used part of the shaft. I also chamfered the sides of the new
> > bushings to further allow oil to make its way into the oil space
> > provided between the shaft and arm.
> >
> > I've got to further say that I don't know squat about teflon in
> > engine bearings...my only use of teflon (that I know of) is frying
> > eggs in a pan....low (relative) heat, no pressure, and the
> > eggs taste
> > fine. I wouldn't have eaten eggs cooked on the teflon that was
> > visible inside the removed bushings...they looked like the
> > frypan had
> > been attacked with a steel spatula, if you'll permit me the kitchen
> > analogy. : )
> >
> > Again, I'm not saying that Jabiru made a mistake, maybe I just got a
> > lemon, and if my "fix" doesn't work out, I will have no apologies to
> > make. My engine is in a Kitfox Model IV *experimental* airplane, and
> > that's JUST what I'm doing...experimenting.
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Grass Lake, Michigan
> > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> > flying w/275+ hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cbaron66" <bruce.lee(at)honeywell.com> |
I'm new here so forgive me if this subject has been beaten to death. Can anyone
tell me what happened to the 5100? I was thinking that would make one sweet engine
for the RV9!- thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113328#113328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
What I've heard is that the demand for the 2200 and the 3300 has the factory so
far behind that they have ceased production of the eight cylinder engine until
they have the time and capacity to assign to it again.
Dred
---- cbaron66 wrote:
>
> I'm new here so forgive me if this subject has been beaten to death. Can anyone
tell me what happened to the 5100? I was thinking that would make one sweet
engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113328#113328
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
Since the 3300 and the 2200 have become so popular and Jabiru has only so
much machining capacity, they decided to put the 5100 on hold till they can
keep up with demand on the smaller engines. It is a great running engine and
soooo smoooth.
Hope that answers you question.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
cbaron66
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: 8cyl 5100
I'm new here so forgive me if this subject has been beaten to death. Can
anyone tell me what happened to the 5100? I was thinking that would make one
sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113328#113328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur Holtzman" <aholt11552(at)bellsouth.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <dredmoody(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 8cyl 5100
>
> What I've heard is that the demand for the 2200 and the 3300 has the
> factory so far behind that they have ceased production of the eight
> cylinder engine until they have the time and capacity to assign to it
> again.
>
> Dred
>
> ---- cbaron66 wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm new here so forgive me if this subject has been beaten to death. Can
>> anyone tell me what happened to the 5100? I was thinking that would make
>> one sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113328#113328
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
Some other have already responded with reasons why Jabiru is not producing
them at the moment. However, I've seen someone offering a brand new 5100 for
sale just a few months ago. You may want to try contacting him to see if
it's still available... See:
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2235
Rob
>
>
> I'm new here so forgive me if this subject has been beaten to death. Can
> anyone tell me what happened to the 5100? I was thinking that would make
> one sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113328#113328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
> I was thinking that would make one sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
I thought the test-bed for the 5100 was an RV-6 but I can't find the
reference.
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant Piper" <grant.piper(at)bigpond.com> |
Yes to all, the factory had an RV-6 they installed the prototype on, with
a view to developing a FF kit. Since then our dollar has appreciated from
US47c to US83c, and the Lyclones have boomed, spoiling the marketing
advantage.
I flew the 5100/RV-6, it was very smooth and compared well to my 180/RV-4 in
power. I think it is an ideal RV engine if you don't want a CS and
inverted capability.
The factory is expanding now, but all booked up for the forseeable future
with the smaller engines.
Grant Piper
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 4:48 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: 8cyl 5100
>
>
>> I was thinking that would make one sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
>
> I thought the test-bed for the 5100 was an RV-6 but I can't find the
> reference.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
I have a gut feeling to be cautious about the 5100 until someone else gets
more hours on it. Production was discontinued it is said for capacity
reasons but it has not had a lot of in field development.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Payne
Sent: Friday, 18 May 2007 4:49 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: 8cyl 5100
> I was thinking that would make one sweet engine for the RV9!- thoughts?
I thought the test-bed for the 5100 was an RV-6 but I can't find the
reference.
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine missing during mag check |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
I've noticed my engine missing during mag check. It does not occur
all the time, and it can occur on either mag or both. My idle mixture has
been set a bit to the rich side for easier starting in the winter. This
could certainly contribute and that is one of the first things that I will
adjust. Also noticed that my distributer caps are loose. This was not the
case when new. I'm going to inspect the rotors and add shims to eliminate
the slack. Has anyone else experienced mag check issues due to loose caps
or rich idle mixture?
Thanks in advance
Chuck Long
Zodie Rocket w Jab 3300
105 hr TTSN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine missing during mag check |
Hi Chuck,
I've not experienced missing during mag checks and at under 110 hours
your caps and rotors should still be in good shape - notice the still.
I put new caps and rotors on at 280 hours and noticed the new caps were
slightly loose (could be rocked back and forth) so I just took a few
swipes with a file on the ends of the aluminum L angles that holds on
the cap and has the cap screw pass through it for attachment.
Worked well and engine, which had experienced rough rpm on take off the
previous flight, was as smooth as ever.
cheers jeff small
I've noticed my engine missing during mag check. It does not
occur
all the time, and it can occur on either mag or both. My idle mixture
has
been set a bit to the rich side for easier starting in the winter.
This
could certainly contribute and that is one of the first things that I
will
adjust. Also noticed that my distributer caps are loose. This was
not the
case when new. I'm going to inspect the rotors and add shims to
eliminate
the slack. Has anyone else experienced mag check issues due to loose
caps
or rich idle mixture?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | rocker arm bushings |
I just did a 15 hour inspection of the rocker arm bushing job on my
2200 Jabiru, and all looks well. I had put some 2-3 hour trips on it
to try to get time built up so I'd have a chance to inspect it before
a much longer planned trip. The wear pattern looks good. I expected
to see a little more oil when I took the covers off, because I had
drilled out the oil delivery tube fitting orifice from .059" to .
063", but this didn't exactly flood the rocker area with
oil...enough, but not to the point of robbing the rest of the engine
of oil, to be sure.
The valve clearance setting had to be adjusted, but I expected this
due to a seating-in of the new bushings on the rocker shafts. I had
swapped the shafts across the engine so I could start fresh on a new
portion of the shaft. I'll check the clearances again in another
10-15 hours, just to be sure the clearances don't loosen again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/293+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | rocker arm bushings |
Good work Lynn congratulations on the initiative and the whole approach.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Tuesday, 22 May 2007 12:26 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: rocker arm bushings
I just did a 15 hour inspection of the rocker arm bushing job on my
2200 Jabiru, and all looks well. I had put some 2-3 hour trips on it
to try to get time built up so I'd have a chance to inspect it before
a much longer planned trip. The wear pattern looks good. I expected
to see a little more oil when I took the covers off, because I had
drilled out the oil delivery tube fitting orifice from .059" to .
063", but this didn't exactly flood the rocker area with
oil...enough, but not to the point of robbing the rest of the engine
of oil, to be sure.
The valve clearance setting had to be adjusted, but I expected this
due to a seating-in of the new bushings on the rocker shafts. I had
swapped the shafts across the engine so I could start fresh on a new
portion of the shaft. I'll check the clearances again in another
10-15 hours, just to be sure the clearances don't loosen again.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/293+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tractor Installation without Cowling |
Hi All:
If a jabiru 2200 is installed in tractor configuration without cowling, would the
stock air ducts and oil cooler provide adequate cooling? Are there specific
considerations that I shoul know?
Thanks!
Jose
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Tractor Installation without Cowling |
Hi Jose
The air ducts are supposed to direct the ram air down through the fins. If
the engine is not cowled I would think that there will be too much air
pressure under the engine and would reduce that air flow.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jose M.
Toro
Sent: Tuesday, 29 May 2007 11:17 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Tractor Installation without Cowling
Hi All:
If a jabiru 2200 is installed in tractor configuration without cowling,
would the stock air ducts and oil cooler provide adequate cooling? Are
there specific considerations that I shoul know?
Thanks!
Jose
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tractor Installation without Cowling |
| From: | "ianboag" <ian.boag(at)gmail.com> |
OTOH there are lots of aircraft that run this way. X-Airs, Bantams have naked tractor
setups. I don't know anything about their ram air ducts or oil coolers
though ......
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116435#116435
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
Jabiru USA is again offering one of our popular Engine Maintenance and
Installation seminars July 6th thru July 8th. Details on www.usjabiru.com
<http://www.usjabiru.com/> . Registration form attached
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | compression values |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
hi folks,
I would like to find out what are typical compression values on a
recent 2200; could those who measured their compressions give me their
results, together with approx engine hours and age?
as I have a problem with a leaky valve in one cylinder I carried out
some serious tests on my engine and found that on the three "good"
cylinders I have only 122psi (8.6 bar). I've heard about one engine
that at 300hrs had as much as 160psi (11.2bar), yet I also heard that
my 122psi is a reasonable compression.
My compressions were taken with a warm engine, one sparkplug per
cylinder removed, throttle fully open, good battery. Engine has 100
hrs, 2 years old (hyd lifters).
I also did a leak down test: pressure drop on good cylinders were 9%,
11% and 14%; it was 35% on the bad one.
thanksfor your help
Martin
Avid Flyer / Jab powered
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117380#117380
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | compression values |
Hi! Martin
25% down on the leak down test is maximum permissible on any cylinder..
Otherwise IMHO the Compression test is barely worth the bother.
Regards
Bob H
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
avidflyer01
Sent: 08 June 2007 23:28
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: compression values
hi folks,
I would like to find out what are typical compression values on a
recent 2200; could those who measured their compressions give me their
results, together with approx engine hours and age?
as I have a problem with a leaky valve in one cylinder I carried out
some serious tests on my engine and found that on the three "good"
cylinders I have only 122psi (8.6 bar). I've heard about one engine
that at 300hrs had as much as 160psi (11.2bar), yet I also heard that
my 122psi is a reasonable compression.
My compressions were taken with a warm engine, one sparkplug per
cylinder removed, throttle fully open, good battery. Engine has 100
hrs, 2 years old (hyd lifters).
I also did a leak down test: pressure drop on good cylinders were 9%,
11% and 14%; it was 35% on the bad one.
thanksfor your help
Martin
Avid Flyer / Jab powered
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117380#117380
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: Compression values |
Martin:
The standard automotive compression tester is about as useful as chewing gum
in the gas line. They lie! Actually they lie like troopers after a bad
day!
The only compression test worth looking at is a differential compression
test. This is done by flowing 80 psi of air into a cylinder at TDC and
checking how much pressure is lost in that cylinder. A perfect score would
be 80 and lesser scores would be in the seventies you will have problems in
the mid sixties. ( sounds familiar doesn't it ;-) )
The differential test is as close as you can come to testing the cylinder in
operation. It has the added abilities to accurately find where the problems
are... If you head air leaking form the engine base then you have bad rings
on that cylinder, If it comes from the intake manifold it's the intake valve
and of course if you hear hissing at the exhaust the exhaust valve will need
work.
To do the differential test you will have to remove plug from each cylinder
just as you have to do with the automotive tester. While you are doing this
it's a good time to have a nice close look at your spark plugs. Cylinders
suffering lower compression may also display a bit darker plug as the fuel
doesn't burn completely in the cylinder.
Getting a differential test done on each annual would be a good idea just
the same as cutting open oil filters and looking for large metal flakes.
Hope this helps.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: compression values
> From: "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr>
>
>
> hi folks,
> I would like to find out what are typical compression values on a
> recent 2200; could those who measured their compressions give me their
> results, together with approx engine hours and age?
>
> as I have a problem with a leaky valve in one cylinder I carried out
> some serious tests on my engine and found that on the three "good"
> cylinders I have only 122psi (8.6 bar). I've heard about one engine
> that at 300hrs had as much as 160psi (11.2bar), yet I also heard that
> my 122psi is a reasonable compression.
>
> My compressions were taken with a warm engine, one sparkplug per
> cylinder removed, throttle fully open, good battery. Engine has 100
> hrs, 2 years old (hyd lifters).
> I also did a leak down test: pressure drop on good cylinders were 9%,
> 11% and 14%; it was 35% on the bad one.
>
> thanksfor your help
>
> Martin
> Avid Flyer / Jab powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/12/07 |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
I had reported a engine stumble during the mag check a couple of weeks ago.
My distributor caps were loose. I filed .010" off the retainers to tighten
them up. Since that time, have made multiple flights and no more stumble
issues. Others have reported the distributor caps loosening over time. If
you develop a stumble during mag check, suggest you look for loose
distributor caps.
Clear Skies!
Chuck Long
Zodie Rocket / Jab3300
N601LE, 110 hr TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/12/07 |
Hey Chuck,
As a point of interest, what kind of performance numbers are you seeing
with your 3300 powered Zodiac. The reason I ask, it that the 601XL that our
EAA chapter built has the same engine, and is now being flown by the four
members that bought it. I flew the first ten hours on it and was very pleased
with the performance and the way if flies. Of course it is slower that the
3300 powered Esqual and Lightnings that I have also flown, but they are much
cleaner airplanes. Our chapter 601 is fitted with wheel pants and lots of
other extras and is quite heave at 766 pounds empty. They are just finishing
up
the 40 hours and will be compiling the flight test data for the flight
manual soon. Any comparison numbers you have would be interesting.
Blue Skies,
Buz Rich
N31BZ - hybrid Esqual LS (Lightning Stuff) with 3300 Jab. I now have 305
hours on it in the last 17 months.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Ames" <reames(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Esqual VM-1/Lightning |
For Sale: 2003 Esqual VM-1 Jabiru 2200 engine, 165 hrs. cruise 120
knots, stall 42 knots, meets Light Sport Rules, $59,995.00 Call
931-788-2973 for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Owens" <powens(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100 |
The day has finally arrived!!!! Monday June 12th 2007 engine ignition of
Jabiru 5100 180 HP 8 Cyl engine #5 off the production line!
After much work and a lot of time making the engine installation into the
Zenith CH-801 for the 1st time we have an operational engine,
and I must say it was spectacular. Fired without a hitch very quickly and
settled into a roar just as fast. Thrust from the 3-blade custom made Ca
tto
prop almost blew over the A&P standing alongside the fuselage and we didn
't
get above 1600 RPM out of the top of 3000.
Will be making some improvements to the throttle linkage to assure there
is
no movement. Since this is the first time this engine has ever been
installed in this airframe there has been a lot of design engineering to
get
everything located and operating properly, dual throttle controls so the
a/c
can be flown from either side, development of a fuel rail to improve the
fuel delivery and provide a place for the fuel flow meter and fuel pressu
re
sender, development of an airbox that will be neutral to airpressure so a
s
not to upset the Bing altitude compensating carbys, design and manufactur
e
the carby heat box and shields, redesign and install new exhaust system s
o
exhaust tubes from engine are inside the outflow tubes, change oil lines
to
A/C fittings instead of hoseclamps, install oil pan heater for cold weath
er.
You get the idea, a lot of thought to get it into the airframe! I wish t
o
Thank the Jabiru team for their assistance in re-designing the engine mou
nt,
it was essential in order to have enough room for the cobra intake heads,
note however, we had to rebuild them smaller as they did not fit the carb
y
intake. Down to the last item, design and manufacture the nosebowl and
cowling, go through the entire A/C in a pre-inspection inspection before
the
FAA comes to check it out. Whoooooopeeeeee!
Phil Owens CH-801 Builder
Beloit,WI
Southern Wisconsin Regional Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100 |
Hey, congratulations Phil!
I know how that feels, the first start of my 3300 was spectacular too. I
guess you have 50% more fun though ;-)
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Owens
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:11 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100
The day has finally arrived!!!! Monday June 12th 2007 engine
ignition of Jabiru 5100 180 HP 8 Cyl engine #5 off the production line!
After much work and a lot of time making the engine installation
into the Zenith CH-801 for the 1st time we have an operational engine,
and I must say it was spectacular. Fired without a hitch very
quickly and settled into a roar just as fast. Thrust from the 3-blade
custom made Catto prop almost blew over the A&P standing alongside the
fuselage and we didn't get above 1600 RPM out of the top of 3000.
Will be making some improvements to the throttle linkage to
assure there is no movement. Since this is the first time this engine
has ever been installed in this airframe there has been a lot of design
engineering to get everything located and operating properly, dual
throttle controls so the a/c can be flown from either side, development
of a fuel rail to improve the fuel delivery and provide a place for the
fuel flow meter and fuel pressure sender, development of an airbox that
will be neutral to airpressure so as not to upset the Bing altitude
compensating carbys, design and manufacture the carby heat box and
shields, redesign and install new exhaust system so exhaust tubes from
engine are inside the outflow tubes, change oil lines to A/C fittings
instead of hoseclamps, install oil pan heater for cold weather.
You get the idea, a lot of thought to get it into the airframe!
I wish to Thank the Jabiru team for their assistance in re-designing the
engine mount, it was essential in order to have enough room for the
cobra intake heads, note however, we had to rebuild them smaller as they
did not fit the carby intake. Down to the last item, design and
manufacture the nosebowl and cowling, go through the entire A/C in a
pre-inspection inspection before the FAA comes to check it out.
Whoooooopeeeeee!
Phil Owens CH-801 Builder
Beloit,WI
Southern Wisconsin Regional Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100 |
Congratulations Phil but take it easy with the 8 there are not many hours in
the field.
Cheers
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil
Owens
Sent: Thursday, 14 June 2007 11:12 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100
The day has finally arrived!!!! Monday June 12th 2007 engine ignition of
Jabiru 5100 180 HP 8 Cyl engine #5 off the production line!
After much work and a lot of time making the engine installation into the
Zenith CH-801 for the 1st time we have an operational engine,
and I must say it was spectacular. Fired without a hitch very quickly and
settled into a roar just as fast. Thrust from the 3-blade custom made Catto
prop almost blew over the A&P standing alongside the fuselage and we didn't
get above 1600 RPM out of the top of 3000.
Will be making some improvements to the throttle linkage to assure there is
no movement. Since this is the first time this engine has ever been
installed in this airframe there has been a lot of design engineering to get
everything located and operating properly, dual throttle controls so the a/c
can be flown from either side, development of a fuel rail to improve the
fuel delivery and provide a place for the fuel flow meter and fuel pressure
sender, development of an airbox that will be neutral to airpressure so as
not to upset the Bing altitude compensating carbys, design and manufacture
the carby heat box and shields, redesign and install new exhaust system so
exhaust tubes from engine are inside the outflow tubes, change oil lines to
A/C fittings instead of hoseclamps, install oil pan heater for cold weather.
You get the idea, a lot of thought to get it into the airframe! I wish to
Thank the Jabiru team for their assistance in re-designing the engine mount,
it was essential in order to have enough room for the cobra intake heads,
note however, we had to rebuild them smaller as they did not fit the carby
intake. Down to the last item, design and manufacture the nosebowl and
cowling, go through the entire A/C in a pre-inspection inspection before the
FAA comes to check it out. Whoooooopeeeeee!
Phil Owens CH-801 Builder
Beloit,WI
Southern Wisconsin Regional Airport
<http://www.incredimail.com/index.asp?id=54475> Add FUN to your email -
CLICK HERE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dan McIntyre ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dan McIntyre
Lists: Kitfox-List,JabiruEngine-List
Subject: Jabiru 2200 installation, Model IV Kitfox
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/danm@gangnailtruss.com.06.23.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | [ Dan McIntyre ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Great Photos, Dan. They should help a lot of Kitfox builders sort it all
out.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Email
List Photo Shares
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: [ Dan McIntyre ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dan McIntyre
Lists: Kitfox-List,JabiruEngine-List
Subject: Jabiru 2200 installation, Model IV Kitfox
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/danm@gangnailtruss.com.06.23.2007/index.
html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete" <pete(at)flylightning.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Float Valve Issues |
_____
Every month I get a call or two about float bowls overflowing and engines
running too rich from too much fuel in the carb bowl. Most of the time the
cause is a small piece of rubber debris that hides inside the rubber fuel
hose after it is cut to length. Only at some future time does it work its
way down to the float valve. We have also found small pieces of dirt that
found their way into the line after it was dropped on a dirty shop floor.
John Jenkins was kind enough to send photos of the debris he found. The
email he sent and my response follow below:
>At WOT and about 200' at the end of a short runway this morning all of
>a sudden the 3300 began missing like crazy. I looked for a field to set
>down on and pulled back some on the throttle. The missing stopped and I
>was climbing at about 500 fpnm so I kept on going back to C29,
>beginning to smell fuel about 5 miles out. Landed ok and a mechanic ran
>out to say he could see I was running very rich.
>
>We pulled the cowl and fuel was running down the firewall. Turned out
>that fuel coming into the airbox from the little hose at the top of the
>carb. I didn't run the engine again, but got this result by turning on
>the electric fuel pump. Not leaking anywhere else.
>
>Any idea what's going on? Jj
My response:
>My guess is that the float valve is stuck open for some reason and not
>shutting off the flow when the float bowl is full. The symptoms would
>be rich running and fuel running out the bowl vent (clear hose from
>carb to airbox).
>
>It might be a piece of dirt or might be a valve body problem (there is
>a small spring in the valve body) or floats that have failed (very
>rare)
>
>Pete Krotje
>Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
John's return email with photos:
Pete, you hit it on the head. At first I found nothing. Then I put some hose
on the fuel inlet and blew lightly. Clogged. Blew harder and you can see
what appeared in the valve seat. I'm including another photo to show the
size of the shard.
I hope I've learned my lesson. Thanks for the help. jj
Jabiru USA would always suggest blowing out the fuel hose after cutting and
after hooking up the fuel system to flush a quart of fuel through the system
before starting the engine.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Float Valve Issues |
As a matter of interest I have taken a number of test readings measuring
fuel flow rates with a Navman flow meter. The tests were conducted near WOT
using the float needle seat 2.25mm as supplied by Jabiru, and also with the
1.5mm seat as recommended by Bing.
Even when using the Bing recommended HP seat, when the boost pump is turned
on fuel flow immediately increases by approx 5 LPH and EGT comes down from
about 750 deg C to 650DegC. These carbs seem to be very sensitive to fuel
pressure and I think they would probably work best with gravity feed.
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Sent: Monday, 2 July 2007 8:27 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: FW: Float Valve Issues
_____
Every month I get a call or two about float bowls overflowing and engines
running too rich from too much fuel in the carb bowl. Most of the time the
cause is a small piece of rubber debris that hides inside the rubber fuel
hose after it is cut to length. Only at some future time does it work its
way down to the float valve. We have also found small pieces of dirt that
found their way into the line after it was dropped on a dirty shop floor.
John Jenkins was kind enough to send photos of the debris he found. The
email he sent and my response follow below:
>At WOT and about 200' at the end of a short runway this morning all of
>a sudden the 3300 began missing like crazy. I looked for a field to set
>down on and pulled back some on the throttle. The missing stopped and I
>was climbing at about 500 fpnm so I kept on going back to C29,
>beginning to smell fuel about 5 miles out. Landed ok and a mechanic ran
>out to say he could see I was running very rich.
>
>We pulled the cowl and fuel was running down the firewall. Turned out
>that fuel coming into the airbox from the little hose at the top of the
>carb. I didn't run the engine again, but got this result by turning on
>the electric fuel pump. Not leaking anywhere else.
>
>Any idea what's going on? Jj
My response:
>My guess is that the float valve is stuck open for some reason and not
>shutting off the flow when the float bowl is full. The symptoms would
>be rich running and fuel running out the bowl vent (clear hose from
>carb to airbox).
>
>It might be a piece of dirt or might be a valve body problem (there is
>a small spring in the valve body) or floats that have failed (very
>rare)
>
>Pete Krotje
>Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
John's return email with photos:
Pete, you hit it on the head. At first I found nothing. Then I put some hose
on the fuel inlet and blew lightly. Clogged. Blew harder and you can see
what appeared in the valve seat. I'm including another photo to show the
size of the shard.
I hope I've learned my lesson. Thanks for the help. jj
Jabiru USA would always suggest blowing out the fuel hose after cutting and
after hooking up the fuel system to flush a quart of fuel through the system
before starting the engine.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Engine Start 8-Cyl 5100 |
| From: | "xavierzr" <xavierzr(at)hotmail.com> |
Dear Phil,
I own a 801 with jabiru 5100 engine but im having overheat problems also my sensenich
prop isnt working as it supposed to, I would really appreciate if you can
tell me wich propeller you use and if theres not too much trouble, photos of
your cowling.
I really Appreciate it!!
Thank you
Xavier Zuniga
XVRZNG(at)yahoo.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=122676#122676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Krotje" <pete(at)usjabiru.com> |
Just a few photos rom our latest engine seminar. Next one in October
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Boyd" <john9700(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seminar |
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Krotje
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Engine Seminar
Just a few photos rom our latest engine seminar. Next one in October
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "milreed" <milreed(at)wildblue.net> |
Where can I see these photos?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/11/2007 12:55:45 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
milreed(at)wildblue.net writes:
Where can I see these photos?
Good Afternoon milreed,
Just curiosity, but to which photos are you referring? I just received your
Jabiru message, but with nothing to reference it to.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
Jabiru Canada has managed to ignore four emails spaced over the course of 7
weeks. The request is simple enough, based on Lynn matesons experience I
wanted to know the package price to put a 2200 on my Kitfox. Are they no
longer in business or do they simply not care enough to respond? To be
honest unless they can come up with a good reason why they haven't bothered
responding they aren't getting my business. What if I needed a part?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
>
>
> Jabiru Canada has managed to ignore four emails spaced over the course of
> 7 weeks. The request is simple enough, based on Lynn matesons experience I
> wanted to know the package price to put a 2200 on my Kitfox. Are they no
> longer in business or do they simply not care enough to respond? To be
> honest unless they can come up with a good reason why they haven't
> bothered responding they aren't getting my business. What if I needed a
> part?
>
Just like many aircarft-oriented businesses they may be stuck in last
century and not into newfangled inventions such as eeemail. Have you tried
the old-fashioned way? Ya know, call them??
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Rairdin" <craig(at)craigr.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
> Jabiru Canada has managed to ignore four emails spaced over the course of
> 7 weeks. ... Are they no longer in business or do they simply not care
> enough to respond? To be honest unless they can come up with a good
> reason why they haven't bothered responding they aren't getting my
> business. What if I needed a part?
There are Jabiru dealers in other nearby countries who are members of this
list who would benefit from taking your comments to heart. Lack of
responsiveness to email sends a very clear message about a company's
attitude toward customer service.
My company has a customer base that is orders of magnitude larger than
Jabiru's, and we respond to all emails from all customers immediately. We
don't always have the answers they want, but we at least let them know we're
listening.
With that said, it wouldn't hurt to verify you have the right address, but
then give them a call. You might find them more attentive to old-fashioned
modes of communication. We are, after all, talking about internal combustion
engines here. :-)
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
In a message dated 7/11/2007 4:52:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
craig(at)craigr.com writes:
There are Jabiru dealers in other nearby countries who are members of this
list who would benefit from taking your comments to heart. Lack of
responsiveness to email sends a very clear message about a company's
attitude toward customer service.
My company has a customer base that is orders of magnitude larger than
Jabiru's, and we respond to all emails from all customers immediately. We
don't always have the answers they want, but we at least let them know we're
listening.
So you are the one that screws it up for the rest of us!!! I knew someone
was answering their emails, IMMEDIATLY!!!
I find that customers dont always understand that if you are a very small
business, that you dont always answer emails quickly.....particularly when you
are on vacation or buried in stinky stuff.
I dont disagree, but fatigue is a fact of life for small business owners.
But I did notice that the attempts had been made over 7 weeks. That would
be a bit long!!!
doug koenigsberg
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Finally a response! |
I'm please to say that there is life on the other end of the pipe! I wrote
at the end of May, June 5 and 22, July 7th and finally today after venting
here. They finally responded. I'm pleased to discover they are still there.
I'm still a little ticked that it took so long, but we'll see where things
go from here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lancaster Aero Ltd <info(at)jabirucanada.com> |
We would just like to set the record clear.
Having thoroughly checked our emails for the last 12 months let
alone 7 weeks we find no trace of any emails from "Dave G"
We take our business very seriously and return emails the same day
received and return telephone messages the same day also, should we
be unable to answer the call.
Dave must be sending the emails to an address that is not ours... our
email address is: info(at)jabirucanada.com
Lancaster Aero Ltd.
PO Box 56
Bainsville, ON K0C 1E0
Tel: (613) 347-3155
Fax:(613) 347-3074
Email: info(at)jabirucanada.com
www.jabirucanada.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
I can post copies of the emails I've sent since the beginning of June.
Every single email was sent to the current email listed on your website,
which has not changed. If your email was missed once, or twice I might
understand. I was even willing to overlook the preposterous coincidence
that you recieved only the one on the day I finally said something here. But
that last is a little too much for me. I'm sorry things did not work out,
but I'll look for an engine elsewhere.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lancaster Aero Ltd" <info(at)jabirucanada.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Last Chance
>
>
> We would just like to set the record clear.
>
> Having thoroughly checked our emails for the last 12 months let alone 7
> weeks we find no trace of any emails from "Dave G"
>
> We take our business very seriously and return emails the same day
> received and return telephone messages the same day also, should we be
> unable to answer the call.
>
> Dave must be sending the emails to an address that is not ours... our
> email address is: info(at)jabirucanada.com
>
>
> Lancaster Aero Ltd.
> PO Box 56
> Bainsville, ON K0C 1E0
> Tel: (613) 347-3155
> Fax:(613) 347-3074
> Email: info(at)jabirucanada.com
> www.jabirucanada.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "deuskid" <empire.john(at)gmail.com> |
third option: filtering
it could be that a sender's emails might be treated as spam. I've had this happen
to me both as sender and receiver.
the filters on email systems are not perfect.
it could be that 4 were sent and none were received and it isn't either's fault
but simply technology 'helping' us out once again.
Peace,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123371#123371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
I find that the spam filter is the culprit in some instances as well.
Especially if the sender uses some "stationary" that includes graphics.
Also, the filter will sometimes pick up emails from out of the country and
send them to the spam folder.
We get about 300 emails a day at Jabiru USA and 250 of them are spam - most
from spammers getting our info from the Yahoogroups system. Sometimes a
bona fide email will be in the spam batch and I will not catch it before
deleting (I do take a brief look at the spam folder before I trash it)
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of deuskid
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 7:46 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Last Chance
third option: filtering
it could be that a sender's emails might be treated as spam. I've had this
happen to me both as sender and receiver.
the filters on email systems are not perfect.
it could be that 4 were sent and none were received and it isn't either's
fault but simply technology 'helping' us out once again.
Peace,
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123371#123371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Morrisey <donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com> |
Several months ago, I had an experience with Jabiru Canada, similar to what
Dave G has had.
My inquiries were for the Italian prop they rep. It took three messages ov
er several weeks to finally get a response, and the response basically said
they couldn't help me and that I should go to the prop maker's website.
Customer service is king. There is no excuse in 2007 not to be up on commu
nicating via email, and to do it quickly. If I am going to spend thousands
of dollars it's going to be with someone I know will repond when I have an
issue. All the messages I sent were to the address Lancaster Aero just po
sted on this list. And if my messages and Dave G's messages were treated a
s spam, why did "one" message finally get through.
Be careful who you give your money to.Don.> --> JabiruEngine-List message p
osted by: "deuskid" > > third option: filtering> > i
t could be that a sender's emails might be treated as spam. I've had this h
appen to me both as sender and receiver.> > the filters on email systems ar
e not perfect.> > it could be that 4 were sent and none were received and i
t isn't either's fault but simply technology 'helping' us out once again.>
_________________________________________________________________
Missed the show?- Watch videos of the Live Earth Concert on MSN.
http://liveearth.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
Why do you need to reply to a phone call the same day?..... What's wrong
with having someone answer the call?
Don't think I'm singling out your firm. Many companies are t'ing off
the
public, you phone only to get a record player. That may be good enough
for
the Telco provides a necessary service and also who sells the record
service.
Because of the nature of E-mail, where every letter in the address has
to be
perfect or no delivery or delivery to the wrong person, just as bad, too
many communications can get lost in a world wide maze of wire. Initial
contact should be made human to human by phone. I'm sorry human to pile
of
wire doesn't do it for me and I suspect few people any where.
Nice product
Noel Loveys
noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca
Possible customer.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/12/2007 9:39:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com writes:
Several months ago, I had an experience with Jabiru Canada, similar to what
Dave G has had.
My inquiries were for the Italian prop they rep. It took three messages
over several weeks to finally get a response, and the response basically said
they couldn't help me and that I should go to the prop maker's website.
Customer service is king. There is no excuse in 2007 not to be up on
communicating via email, and to do it quickly.
There is an excuse. That is what some of us who are in the airplane
business are trying to say. Think about it. If you tried to get a price on
that
particular prop from that particular manufacturer, you might well experience
the same 3 week delay. I have. When you try to get a price from them, it is
easy to get the run-around. Ask Pete. He no longer deals with them.. (not
that Sensinich is without sin either).
Oh, they could have said, "we havent heard anything" every other day as they
waited for a response that made sense. But that seems like a waste of
everyone's time.
On a number of items, the dealer is at the mercy of single-point
manufacture. I could tell many stories about that. The fuel tanks we use are
only
affordable from one guy. He uses a cell phone and never answers. Out of the
blue we will get a call to meet him at a truckstop on the interstate and he
will have however many tanks he felt like making. Any other source would be
3
times as expensive and probably as prone to being unreliable. We hear a lot
of bitching about the costs of airplane parts, but if you want instant
service, you should be prepared to pay for it. Check Cessna and Piper prices.
And finally, there is the phone. We answer it all the time. Sometimes
while we are on a call it goes to a message. But for some reason, the people
who
get frustrated with email seem unwilling to simply call, even tho the number
is readily available. I often see people on a Yahoo group looking for a
part that I have in stock....but they wont call me for it even tho I am the
only source. If we have it , we ship the next day (unless it goes by freight)
Believe me, I know how hard it can be to get stuff for airplanes. We
finally got a kitplane shipment after waiting for 3 months...from a supposedly
reliable shipper! An this was to get it shipped from 5 states away!!!
None of us want a customer to wait on an email in this day and age. But
trust me, it is going to happen on this level of production and sales. I know
some of you on the list do not want to hear that. But an old adage
suggests, "Make Peace with Reality!"
Doug Koenigsberg
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Rairdin" <craig(at)craigr.com> |
Nonsense.
Why do customers have to "make peace with reality" but not vendors? The
reality is that people are going to contact you by email when you
publish
your address and invite them to communicate with you that way. You may
not
be the best typist, and a lot of your email may be spam, but that is the
reality -- make peace with it.
I don't know what happened between Don and Jabiru Canada, but the way I
read
it he wrote several messages and got no response. When they finally did
respond it was to tell him they couldn't help him. Your proposed excuse
is
that they had inquired of the manufacturer and gotten no response. If
that
was the case, why didn't they write to Don and tell him they were doing
that? It's not sufficient to act on an email right away ... you need to
tell
the other person that you're acting. Otherwise it's as if you aren't
doing
anything.
This spam filter excuse is also nonsense. If you found out the phone
company
was "filtering" your calls and you weren't getting some calls from
customers, you'd complain until the problem was solved. But when
customer
email gets routed to the spam folder, vendors just accept it as
unavoidable.
That simply isn't true. Fix it. When multiple customers report on this
list
that a company isn't responding to email, there's more to it than spam
filters. And if spam filters are the problem, fix them.
I realize this is a tough business to be in. But hey, they're all tough.
I'm
currently chasing a bug in my software that's incredibly illusive. I've
been
working 18-hour days for the last week to find it. The magic tool from
Microsoft that was supposed to instantly solve my problem crashed
immediately when I launched it. In the meantime I'm keeping my inbox
empty
and I'm taking and returning phone calls as needed. The fact that my job
is
hard isn't an excuse for not doing it right. That's the reality.
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kayberg(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Last Chance
In a message dated 7/12/2007 9:39:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com writes:
Several months ago, I had an experience with Jabiru Canada, similar to
what
Dave G has had.
My inquiries were for the Italian prop they rep. It took three messages
over several weeks to finally get a response, and the response basically
said they couldn't help me and that I should go to the prop maker's
website.
Customer service is king. There is no excuse in 2007 not to be up on
communicating via email, and to do it quickly.
There is an excuse. That is what some of us who are in the airplane
business are trying to say. Think about it. If you tried to get a
price
on that particular prop from that particular manufacturer, you might
well
experience the same 3 week delay. I have. When you try to get a price
from them, it is easy to get the run-around. Ask Pete. He no longer
deals
with them.. (not that Sensinich is without sin either).
Oh, they could have said, "we havent heard anything" every other day as
they
waited for a response that made sense. But that seems like a waste of
everyone's time.
On a number of items, the dealer is at the mercy of single-point
manufacture. I could tell many stories about that. The fuel tanks we
use
are only affordable from one guy. He uses a cell phone and never
answers.
Out of the blue we will get a call to meet him at a truckstop on the
interstate and he will have however many tanks he felt like making.
Any
other source would be 3 times as expensive and probably as prone to
being
unreliable. We hear a lot of bitching about the costs of airplane
parts,
but if you want instant service, you should be prepared to pay for it.
Check Cessna and Piper prices.
And finally, there is the phone. We answer it all the time. Sometimes
while we are on a call it goes to a message. But for some reason, the
people who get frustrated with email seem unwilling to simply call, even
tho
the number is readily available. I often see people on a Yahoo group
looking for a part that I have in stock....but they wont call me for it
even
tho I am the only source. If we have it , we ship the next day (unless
it
goes by freight)
Believe me, I know how hard it can be to get stuff for airplanes. We
finally got a kitplane shipment after waiting for 3 months...from a
supposedly reliable shipper! An this was to get it shipped from 5
states
away!!!
None of us want a customer to wait on an email in this day and age.
But
trust me, it is going to happen on this level of production and sales.
I
know some of you on the list do not want to hear that. But an old adage
suggests, "Make Peace with Reality!"
Doug Koenigsberg
_____
Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL.com
<http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982>
.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/12/2007 12:50:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
craig(at)craigr.com writes:
Nonsense.
Why do customers have to "make peace with reality" but not vendors? The
reality is that people are going to contact you by email when you publish your
address and invite them to communicate with you that way. You may not be the
best typist, and a lot of your email may be spam, but that is the reality --
make peace with it.
I don't know what happened between Don and Jabiru Canada, but the way I read
it he wrote several messages and got no response. When they finally did
respond it was to tell him they couldn't help him. Your proposed excuse is that
they had inquired of the manufacturer and gotten no response. If that was the
case, why didn't they write to Don and tell him they were doing that? It's
not sufficient to act on an email right away ... you need to tell the other
person that you're acting. Otherwise it's as if you aren't doing anything.
Craig,
I am not trying to defend Jab Canada. I dont know them. And you do make a
couple good points.
I think I am trying to suggest a little understanding on the part of
customers. I dont disagree with your point of view that emails deserve a response.
However, I am admitting that I have not always answered emails
quickly...either from fatigue or the difficulty of dealing with the question.
You are
a better man (or more driven?) than I am to work 18 hour days. I try to
quit after 12. :)
I think that if customers can build a relationship and ask for what they
want rather than demand; they also get better service. I find it very difficult
to say "no" to some one ASKING from my help and much easier to say "NO" to
someone who DEMANDS I do something.
I would point out that the only way you would know that your emails have
been spam filtered is if someone calls on the phone and tells you! For that
matter, how would you know if your phone was filtering out calls unless
someone sent you an email to complain?!
The other reality with experimental aircraft engines is that unless you like
engine-outs, your choices in the 50-120 HP range with a weight less than 160
lbs is either Rotax or Jabiru. You may not like that, but ...
doug
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Rairdin" <craig(at)craigr.com> |
> The other reality with experimental aircraft engines is
> that unless you like engine-outs, your choices in the
> 50-120 HP range with a weight less than 160 lbs is
> either Rotax or Jabiru. You may not like that, but ...
Oh, I have no problems with Jabiru engines. I'm on my second one in less
than 100 hours so I must like them, right? :-)
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Crowder" <jimlc(at)att.net> |
I have not had an experience with the Canadian distributor, but I did
recently purchase a Jabiru 3300 from Jabiru, USA. My experience with them
has not worked perfectly, as everything in the firewall forward package for
my Kitfox Series 5 will not be available. As they say, "stuff happens."
Rather than rant about one short coming, I am very pleased with my choice so
far. I will work with them to solve the issue which I will admit was a big
disappointment. However, if I don't always hear back promptly, I will
persist and I am sure I will be happy in the end.
I just attended their weekend engine seminar which, I think will be very
prove to have been helpful. I am certainly no engine expert after it, but I
will say I know more about the Jabiru engine and aircraft engines in general
than I did before. Has every call I made or email sent been answered
immediately? I am sure not, but I never let my request hang. I follow up
an email with a phone call and the other way around. I get to know the
names of the people I talk with or correspond with and address them by name.
I try to be an aggressive but understanding buyer. I just ordered an engine
monitoring package from another company and it was the same thing. We ended
up coming to an agreement and I sent a check this afternoon.
I just ordered some parts from Jabiru USA and I followed up the order with
an email listing once again my needs. Such verbal orders are often
forgotten and I know that this follow up email is likely to help Jabiru USA
do their job.
You see I was in the furniture business for many years and after that a
custom home builder. I can still remember some terrible lapses in execution
on my part. Some of my customers were much better organized than I was. I
have learned a lot from them and a part of that is contained here. If our
list member lets this poor email response he described remove Jabiru from
his engine list, I think he will be making a big mistake. Poor front office
actions are not truly indicative of total company performance, especially
with small businesses.
I am very pleased to have made Jabiru my engine choice.
Jim Crowder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Kayberg(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 10:21 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Last Chance
In a message dated 7/12/2007 9:39:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com writes:
Several months ago, I had an experience with Jabiru Canada, similar to
what Dave G has had.
My inquiries were for the Italian prop they rep. It took three messages
over several weeks to finally get a response, and the response basically
said they couldn't help me and that I should go to the prop maker's website.
Customer service is king. There is no excuse in 2007 not to be up on
communicating via email, and to do it quickly.
There is an excuse. That is what some of us who are in the airplane
business are trying to say. Think about it. If you tried to get a price
on that particular prop from that particular manufacturer, you might well
experience the same 3 week delay. I have. When you try to get a price
from them, it is easy to get the run-around. Ask Pete. He no longer deals
with them.. (not that Sensinich is without sin either).
Oh, they could have said, "we havent heard anything" every other day as
they waited for a response that made sense. But that seems like a waste of
everyone's time.
On a number of items, the dealer is at the mercy of single-point
manufacture. I could tell many stories about that. The fuel tanks we use
are only affordable from one guy. He uses a cell phone and never answers.
Out of the blue we will get a call to meet him at a truckstop on the
interstate and he will have however many tanks he felt like making. Any
other source would be 3 times as expensive and probably as prone to being
unreliable. We hear a lot of bitching about the costs of airplane parts,
but if you want instant service, you should be prepared to pay for it.
Check Cessna and Piper prices.
And finally, there is the phone. We answer it all the time. Sometimes
while we are on a call it goes to a message. But for some reason, the
people who get frustrated with email seem unwilling to simply call, even tho
the number is readily available. I often see people on a Yahoo group
looking for a part that I have in stock....but they wont call me for it even
tho I am the only source. If we have it , we ship the next day (unless it
goes by freight)
Believe me, I know how hard it can be to get stuff for airplanes. We
finally got a kitplane shipment after waiting for 3 months...from a
supposedly reliable shipper! An this was to get it shipped from 5 states
away!!!
None of us want a customer to wait on an email in this day and age. But
trust me, it is going to happen on this level of production and sales. I
know some of you on the list do not want to hear that. But an old adage
suggests, "Make Peace with Reality!"
Doug Koenigsberg
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
In a message dated 7/13/2007 11:15:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jimlc(at)att.net writes:
I just ordered some parts from Jabiru USA and I followed up the order with
an email listing once again my needs. Such verbal orders are often forgotten
and I know that this follow up email is likely to help Jabiru USA do their
job.
Great idea.
While USA Jabiru has a couple folks to answer the phone, I remember taking
a couple phone calls while out in the hangar in the middle of
something...then forgetting all about it. The worst seems to be the simplest.
The caller
askes for a simple item, usually a freebe, and it is all so simple it is
easily forgotten.
I am also a bit curious about putting a Jab 3300 in a Kitfox!!! What
prompted that?....it is a lotta engine in a small plane.
Doug Koenigsberg
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
There's no question that most of the time these people please their
customers. They'd be gone otherwise, which is just what I thought may
have happened with the CDN fellows. I was pleased to discover they still
were around and I recieved a fairly nice email from them after I asked
here if they still existed. I made my request (again) to them and
reported back here that I had indeed heard from them. I was
dissappointed and annoyed that the next move on their part was not to
provide me with information, but to come to this group and deny that I
had ever communicated with them at all. I don't know why or who did that
but I'm very angry about it and they've not bothered explaining. I'll
make do with the engine I have for now and hope that others have a
better experience.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Crowder
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 12:13 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Last Chance
You see I was in the furniture business for many years and after that
a custom home builder. I can still remember some terrible lapses in
execution on my part. Some of my customers were much better organized
than I was. I have learned a lot from them and a part of that is
contained here. If our list member lets this poor email response he
described remove Jabiru from his engine list, I think he will be making
a big mistake. Poor front office actions are not truly indicative of
total company performance, especially with small buwder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed D'Antoni" <avidaerobat(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
Funny they answer my emails.
Try phoning!
I do phone them from time to time. Long distance in Canada runs from 2 to 10 cents
per minute, The worst it will cost is $6.00 per hour.
Also consider Skype, you can call anywhere in North America for less than 20 bucks
per year, and anywhere in the world for only 2 cents per minute.
Ed
Calgary
Jabiru Canada has managed to ignore four emails spaced over the course of 7
weeks. The request is simple enough, based on Lynn matesons experience I
wanted to know the package price to put a 2200 on my Kitfox. Are they no
longer in business or do they simply not care enough to respond? To be
honest unless they can come up with a good reason why they haven't bothered
responding they aren't getting my business. What if I needed a part?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Arnold" <arno7452(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad service? |
amen on skype
Ken
CH701 65%
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed D'Antoni
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru Canada - defunct or just bad
service?
Funny they answer my emails.
Try phoning!
I do phone them from time to time. Long distance in Canada runs from 2
to 10 cents per minute, The worst it will cost is $6.00 per hour.
Also consider Skype, you can call anywhere in North America for less
than 20 bucks per year, and anywhere in the world for only 2 cents per
minute.
Ed
Calgary
"Dave G." wrote:
Jabiru Canada has managed to ignore four emails spaced over the
course of 7
weeks. The request is simple enough, based on Lynn matesons
experience I
wanted to know the package price to put a 2200 on my Kitfox. Are
they no
longer in business or do they simply not care enough to respond? To
be
honest unless they can come up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Crowder" <jimlc(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
The Kitfox is a Series 5. The Series 5,6, and 7 are set up for larger
engine packages. Typical higher HP engines supported are the IO240, and the
turbo charged Rotax. Mine is replacing a NSI turbo charged EA81 Subaru
which was supposed to be over 135 HP. I fly out of FNL at 5,000 ft
elevation in Colorado. The Jabiru 3300 is lighter while still providing
good HP. I have high hopes for it. For Kitfox models 1 through 4, the
Jabiru 2200 is a better match and several are flying with it.
After reading the emails on the thread that followed the one I replied to, I
thought mine was a bit of piling on and a bit preachy. I do still think
that as real buyers, we play a large part in out own satisfaction. I try to
help sellers satisfy my needs. After a life of selling, I know how easy it
is to screw up. I'm looking for a satisfying purchase, not to test the
perfection of the sellers operation. It usually works for me.
Jim Crowder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Kayberg(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 5:14 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox
In a message dated 7/13/2007 11:15:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jimlc(at)att.net writes:
I just ordered some parts from Jabiru USA and I followed up the order
with an email listing once again my needs. Such verbal orders are often
forgotten and I know that this follow up email is likely to help Jabiru USA
do their job.
Great idea.
While USA Jabiru has a couple folks to answer the phone, I remember
taking a couple phone calls while out in the hangar in the middle of
something...then forgetting all about it. The worst seems to be the
simplest. The caller askes for a simple item, usually a freebe, and it is
all so simple it is easily forgotten.
I am also a bit curious about putting a Jab 3300 in a Kitfox!!! What
prompted that?....it is a lotta engine in a small plane.
Doug Koenigsberg
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Newbie Seeking Knowledge! |
Good Evening All,
One of my granddaughters has acquired a quick build kit for the Legend Cub.
Her's will have the Jabiru 3300 installed.
Since I know nothing about that engine, I have signed up to this Jabiru
discussion list in the hopes of gleaning enough knowledge such that I can hold
reasonable discussions with that fine young lady.
Any clues as to what I may want to read or data sources for operational and
maintenance information will be greatly appreciated.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Seeking Knowledge! |
Bob,
She will get a CD with that engine that will contain the Instruction and
Maintenance Manual for the 3300A. Her's will probably be the latest
hydraulic lifter version. I know you will be at OSH (I am departing tomorrow
for my
standard work in the Vintage area) so suggest you attend the forum on the
Jabiru engines and also stop by the Jabiru USA display area. Talk to Pete or
Ben Krotje. You might even talk them out of a CD for yourself if you tell
them Buz sent you. Just kidding.
Blue Skies,
Buz
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Seeking Knowledge! |
In a message dated 7/16/2007 8:46:34 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
N1BZRich(at)aol.com writes:
I know you will be at OSH (I am departing tomorrow for my standard work in
the Vintage area) so suggest you attend the forum on the Jabiru engines and
also stop by the Jabiru USA display area. Talk to Pete or Ben Krotje.
Good Evening Buz,
I'll do just that and look forward to seeing you there.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Newbie Seeking Knowledge! |
Lucky (or smart) lady - from what I have read that is a fine combination of
plane and engine.
Among other places you can find the latest 3300 manuals on line at Jabiru
Pacific's site:
http://www.jabirupacific.com/support.htm
The other US dealers are:
Jabiru USA (in TN) : www.usjabiru.com/mainmenu.htm
Suncoast Sportsplanes (in FL): http://www.suncoastjabiru.com/ (has a nice
on-line store for Jabiru parts and accessories).
The factory website in Australia is http://www.jabiru.net.au/
If you follow the "Jaba Chat & News" link on the factory site you can read
their current and back newsletters which give you a feel for the engine's
evolution..
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Equivalent part numbers for distributor cap and rotor |
Hi Team,
Does anybody know off hand what the equivalent part numbers for the 3300
distributor cap and rotor?
Seems like I remember somebody saying they'd crossed them to a Bosch number,
but I can't find it with the forum search engine.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Europa N245E
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Equivalent part numbers for distributor cap and |
rotor
Give me one day ('til Sat) and i'll tell ya.
Hugs.
On 7/19/07, TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Team,
>
> Does anybody know off hand what the equivalent part numbers for the 3300
> distributor cap and rotor?
>
> Seems like I remember somebody saying they'd crossed them to a Bosch
> number, but I can't find it with the forum search engine.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
> Europa N245E
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com<http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982>
> .
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Equivalent part numbers for distributor cap and |
rotor
>
> **
>
> Here it goes...
Distribuitor Caps (for Jab 3300):
from Intermotor: ref.: 44160
from Champion: ref.: BH74
Rotors (for Jab 3300):
from Intermotor: ref.: 47040s
from Champion: ref.: i donno... sorry!
I'll keep looking for Bosch refs.
Hugs!
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/21/07 |
In a message dated 7/22/2007 2:58:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com writes:
> Here it goes...
Distribuitor Caps (for Jab 3300):
from Intermotor: ref.: 44160
from Champion: ref.: BH74
Rotors (for Jab 3300):
from Intermotor: ref.: 47040s
from Champion: ref.: i donno... sorry!
I'll keep looking for Bosch refs.
Hugs!
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Hi Miguel,
Now we're making some progress!
I've been able to cross the distributor cap number you provided to a Bosch
BSH007343. This is an American part number and is available at several US
based parts houses. Although I've not yet done a direct comparison, the picture
looks identical to the distributor cap that came on my engine.
Unfortunately, I've not been able to cross the rotor arm number you
provided. I found a number of cross references on the Standard/Intermotor site,
including BMW, VW, Euro Ford, Euro Delco, Volvo, Mercedes, and others, but so
far,
none cross to any American part numbers as best I can find.
If you can come up with a USA Bosch or Champion part number for the rotor
arm I will be most grateful!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Europa N245E - Down for annual
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/21/07 |
Let me see what i can do. I'll answer you ASAP.
--
> Miguel Maia de Loureiro
> Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
> Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
> e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/21/07 |
Good Afternoon Miguel,
It would greatly aid many of us on this list if you would include enough of
the message to which you are referring so that we could tell what it is that
you are going to find out about!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 7/22/2007 6:23:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com writes:
Let me see what i can do. I'll answer you ASAP.
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: _ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com _ (mailto:ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com)
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Eady <gary_eady(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Jab 3300A alternator warning light |
I was wondering if there is anyone out there who has wired up an alternator
warning light for the 3300A engine and do you have a wiring diagram for it?
My engine has the 2 wire single phase alternator.
Regards
Gary Eady
Whangarei, New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lightning Aircraft Australia" <lightningaustralia(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300A alternator warning light |
Hi Gary, If using the regulator supplied with your Jab 3300 eng, the green
wire from the 6 terminal connector block can be hooked up to a light to warn
of low voltage from the altenator. Green wire one side of the globe , neg.
to the other side of globe.This info. is in the CD that comes with your
engine.
Regards, Dennis Borchardt, Lightning Aircraft Australia.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Eady" <gary_eady(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jab 3300A alternator warning light
>
>
> I was wondering if there is anyone out there who has wired up an
> alternator
> warning light for the 3300A engine and do you have a wiring diagram for
> it?
> My engine has the 2 wire single phase alternator.
>
> Regards
> Gary Eady
> Whangarei, New Zealand
>
>
> --
> 2:22 PM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Eady" <gary_eady(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Jab 3300A alternator warning light |
Thanks for the info on the regulator. My CD refers to the earlier 3 phase
alternator with no reference to the green wire.
Thanks
Gary Eady
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Lightning Aircraft Australia
Sent: Saturday, 4 August 2007 10:41 a.m.
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jab 3300A alternator warning light
Hi Gary, If using the regulator supplied with your Jab 3300 eng, the green
wire from the 6 terminal connector block can be hooked up to a light to warn
of low voltage from the altenator. Green wire one side of the globe , neg.
to the other side of globe.This info. is in the CD that comes with your
engine.
Regards, Dennis Borchardt, Lightning Aircraft Australia.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Eady" <gary_eady(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jab 3300A alternator warning light
>
>
> I was wondering if there is anyone out there who has wired up an
> alternator
> warning light for the 3300A engine and do you have a wiring diagram for
> it?
> My engine has the 2 wire single phase alternator.
>
> Regards
> Gary Eady
> Whangarei, New Zealand
>
>
> --
> 2:22 PM
>
5:46 p.m.
5:46 p.m.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
| From: | "Rhino" <bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com> |
Jim,
Keep us abreast on how that goes. I'm looking to put a 3300 into a Kitfox Super
Sport as well.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127447#127447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
In a message dated 8/4/2007 7:59:23 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com writes:
Jim,
Keep us abreast on how that goes. I'm looking to put a 3300 into a Kitfox
Super Sport as well.
Good Morning bsimmons (Rhino?),
Sure would be helpful to us dummies if you could include a snippet of the
message to which you are responding. Kinda hard to see what is happening without
it!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jab 2200 install question |
| From: | "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com> |
I've installed a 2200 Jab in my Kitfox IV, there's a small fitting coming from
the airbox, about 1/8" i.d. My question is, is this fitting suppose to be connected
to the carb fitting of the same size with fuel line tubing?. I've looked
in my install manuels but can't find out to much about it.
Thanks in advance
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128314#128314
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Ames" <reames(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jab 2200 install question |
Right On Dan, You got it. BA
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 1:00 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jab 2200 install question
>
> I've installed a 2200 Jab in my Kitfox IV, there's a small fitting coming
> from the airbox, about 1/8" i.d. My question is, is this fitting suppose
> to be connected to the carb fitting of the same size with fuel line
> tubing?. I've looked in my install manuels but can't find out to much
> about it.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128314#128314
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru Chile" <info(at)jabiru.cl> |
| Subject: | Jab 2200 install question |
Hi Dan,
yes this fitting coming from the air box should be connected to the carb
fitting of the same size.
Regards,
Christian Tannen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DanM
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 2:01 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jab 2200 install question
I've installed a 2200 Jab in my Kitfox IV, there's a small fitting coming
from the airbox, about 1/8" i.d. My question is, is this fitting suppose to
be connected to the carb fitting of the same size with fuel line tubing?.
I've looked in my install manuels but can't find out to much about it.
Thanks in advance
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128314#128314
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
| From: | "Rhino" <bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com> |
[quote="BobsV35B(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 8/4/2007 7:59:23 A.M. Central Daylight
Time, bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com writes:
> Jim,
>
> Keep us abreast on how that goes. I'm looking to put a 3300 into a Kitfox
Super Sport as well.
>
>
Good Morning bsimmons (Rhino?),
Sure would be helpful to us dummies if you could include a snippet of the message
to which you are responding. Kinda hard to see what is happening without
it!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
> [b]
Sorry. I didn't respond via e-mail. I did it via the online forum, so it didn't
include the original message in my post. That's one of the weird things about
running a mail list that is also a forum. Online forums don't typically include
the original message unless you click the "quote" button. I can do that if
that's what everyone wants, but it's a habit I'll have to get used to I guess.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128472#128472
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
Good Morning B,
I guess it is really my fault for not realizing there IS a forum. Sorry
about that.
Could it be that I am in the wrong place to find out more about the Jabiru
Engine?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
In a message dated 8/10/2007 10:30:00 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com writes:
Sorry. I didn't respond via e-mail. I did it via the online forum, so it
didn't include the original message in my post. That's one of the weird things
about running a mail list that is also a forum. Online forums don't typically
include the original message unless you click the "quote" button. I can do
that if that's what everyone wants, but it's a habit I'll have to get used to
I
guess.
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-kitfox |
| From: | "Rhino" <bsimmons(at)rainbowdata.com> |
BobsV35B(at)aol.com wrote:
> Good Morning B,
> I guess it is really my fault for not realizing there IS a forum. Sorry about
that.
>
> Could it be that I am in the wrong place to find out more about the Jabiru
Engine?
I think it's the right place. It's just apparently not common knowledge that there
are two ways to post here, and they operate a little differently. You are
technically correct though. The FAQ does say to quote some small snippet from
the post you are replying to, in order to preserve continuity. My mistake was
due to the fact that I post in online forums all the time, that do not have a
'post by e-mail list' capability. So I'm just not in the habit of clicking the
"Quote" button with every post. I'll try to do better though.
You can see all of the Matronics online forums, including this one, by going here:
http://forums.matronics.com/index.php
The online address for this particular forum is http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=29.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128512#128512
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jab 2200 install question |
Dan,
that line is a pressure balance between the carb fuel bowl and air box.yes.
G Aman2200 Jabiru on a Mk 3
I've installed a 2200 Jab in my Kitfox IV, there's a small fitting coming from
the airbox, about 1/8" i.d. My question is, is this fitting suppose to be connected
to the carb fitting of the same size with fuel line tubing?. I've looked
in my install manuels but can't find out to much about it.
Thanks in advance
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128314#128314
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs??? |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
hi guys I am reassembling my engine (2200, s/n 2262, hyd lifters) after the replacement
of valve guides.
the manual says : head bolts INITIALLY assembled at 24ft, check at 25hrs at 20ft
- but if I removed and put back the head, should I assemble with 20 or
24ft.lbs??????
any "official" input? pete?
martin
avid flyer/jab2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129635#129635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs??? |
24ft.lbs. Thats official information sent by Jabiru Australia to us.
On 8/17/07, avidflyer01 wrote:
>
>
> hi guys I am reassembling my engine (2200, s/n 2262, hyd lifters) after
> the replacement of valve guides.
> the manual says : head bolts INITIALLY assembled at 24ft, check at 25hrs
> at 20ft - but if I removed and put back the head, should I assemble
> with 20 or 24ft.lbs??????
> any "official" input? pete?
>
> martin
> avid flyer/jab2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129635#129635
>
>
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Fogelson <t_fogelson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs??? |
Not official input, but if it were my engine, I would
start with the original torque setting. You also
should see if you need to replace the head bolts.
Contact the Jabiru rep for the official skinny.
Terry
--- Miguel Maia de Loureiro
wrote:
> 24ft.lbs. Thats official information sent by Jabiru
> Australia to us.
>
> On 8/17/07, avidflyer01 wrote:
> >
> "avidflyer01"
> >
> > hi guys I am reassembling my engine (2200, s/n
> 2262, hyd lifters) after
> > the replacement of valve guides.
> > the manual says : head bolts INITIALLY assembled
> at 24ft, check at 25hrs
> > at 20ft - but if I removed and put back the
> head, should I assemble
> > with 20 or 24ft.lbs??????
> > any "official" input? pete?
> >
> > martin
> > avid flyer/jab2200
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129635#129635
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Miguel Maia de Loureiro
> Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
> Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
> e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
>
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs??? |
Martin,
Use 24ft/lbs for initial assembly and then check thereafter at 20/22ft/lbs.
The lower setting is simply to check for problems, not to move the bolt(s)
if torque remains at the higher value.
Andt
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
avidflyer01
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 5:51 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs???
hi guys I am reassembling my engine (2200, s/n 2262, hyd lifters) after the
replacement of valve guides.
the manual says : head bolts INITIALLY assembled at 24ft, check at 25hrs at
20ft - but if I removed and put back the head, should I assemble with
20 or 24ft.lbs??????
any "official" input? pete?
martin
avid flyer/jab2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129635#129635
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: head bolt torque : 20 or 24 ft.lbs??? |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
thanks Andy and all
martin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129740#129740
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
hi guys, I would like to share some very worrying facts about my engine (2200 w/hyd
lifters) and maybe get some answers from those who have already been there.
I have just completed reassembling my engine after replacement of all valve guides
(both of N2 were completely worn out at 100hrs, others were replaced as precaution).
Today I started it and run for 5 min at 1200-1500rpm, then stopped
and made a close inspection. When I removed tapper covers, I discovered there
was some oil, as it should be the case, in rear rocker chambers (Ns 3 and 4)
but the forward ones were AS DRY AS PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY.
The airplane was sitting almost level, with tail slightly lower, maybe 5. Oil level
was slightly above minimum, as per SB 013-1. The oil pressure was (as always
both in flight and at idle) at 35psi.
After checking that the T junctions on oil feed line were not blocked and some
more thinking, I tilted the airplane more on the nose (3 nose down), cleaned rocker
chambers and run it again for 1 min at 1200rpm.
This time forward rocker chambers were correctly flooded with oil while the aft
ones were virtually dry, except a few drops.
I sincerely hope that at a higher power setting the amount of oil carried thru
the feed tube from under the cylinders is sufficient to spread it correctly in
the T-junction to grease both rocker chambers (I have so far always seen oil
in rocker chambers, although there was always more of it in the rear ones my
plane is a taildragger).
But the worrying truth seems to be that when warming the engine or taxiing at
low rews (and even more so in a taildragger, although already 5 tilt seems to
make a difference), there are good chances that fwd cylinder rockers and valve
guides run dry!!!! My guess is that the quantity of oil delivered is insufficient
and it only runs down the slope, towards the cylinder that is lower.
This could be by the way one of the possible explanations why my valve guides were
ruined after 100hrs and that my rocker bushings also show some premature wear.
Has anybody any comment on these facts? Pete, Andy, do you guys consider it normal
that the whole rocker chamber is not bathing in oil????? Any similar problems
found/cured????
Once at that subject, the SB 013-1 explained to us that vent holes and correct
routing of the sump breather were supposed to enhance the return of oil from rocker
chambers back to the sump, as if too much oil was delivered to the heads.
Seemingly, I have the opposite problem (or at least I do have it on lower revs)
isnt there a restriction between the main oil galley and the two tubes feeding
oil to rocker chambers, that could be increased????
I dont like the idea of running idle with no oil in my rockers/valves.
Any input, guys????
Martin
Avid flyer w/Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129820#129820
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Loram" <johnl(at)loram.org> |
| Subject: | insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
Martin:
What you've encounter is a documented problem with Jabiru engines in tail-draggers,
and has been discussed in the past on this list.
Simply described; when the tail is down and the oil is thin (hot), the oil flows
up the oil tubes to the heads and then, at the 'T' it flows 'down hill' to the
rear cylinders with the forward cylinders running dry.
Colin Hales, the English aeronautical engineer who's 'epic' flight from England
to Australia in a Jabiru 2200 powered Rankin KR2 is mentioned in the December
2002 JabaChat, describes the problem thusly: "... But there is one problem that
we had as a tail dragger that happened to us and Jabiru knows about, but don't
tell. We had to taxi for half an hour after landing. With hot, thin oil at
idle, all the oil that is supplied to the rockers through the supply tubes runs
to the back cylinders and the fronts run dry. Normally there is enough oil
floating about to do the necessary lubrication and the oil when cool and thick
gets everywhere. But do not run your engine for long after landing. The front
rockers will run dry and heat up and damage them selves. Happened to us in Bali.
..."
Buy the way, if you can find Colin's auto-biography of the trip, it's a fascinating
read. He had it published on a website that I have lost track of. He describes
the above problem in much greater detail.
Regards, -john-
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of avidflyer01
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 9:36 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: insufficient rocker chamber greasing ?????
>
> -->
>
> hi guys, I would like to share some very worrying facts about
> my engine (2200 w/hyd lifters) and maybe get some answers
> from those who have already been there.
> I have just completed reassembling my engine after
> replacement of all valve guides (both of N2 were
> completely worn out at 100hrs, others were replaced as
> precaution). Today I started it and run for 5 min at
> 1200-1500rpm, then stopped and made a close inspection. When
> I removed tapper covers, I discovered there was some oil, as
> it should be the case, in rear rocker chambers (Ns 3 and 4)
> but the forward ones were AS DRY AS PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY.
> The airplane was sitting almost level, with tail slightly
> lower, maybe 5. Oil level was slightly above minimum, as
> per SB 013-1. The oil pressure was (as always both in flight
> and at idle) at 35psi.
> After checking that the T junctions on oil feed line were not
> blocked and some more thinking, I tilted the airplane more on
> the nose (3 nose down), cleaned rocker chambers and run it
> again for 1 min at 1200rpm.
> This time forward rocker chambers were correctly flooded with
> oil while the aft ones were virtually dry, except a few drops.
> I sincerely hope that at a higher power setting the amount
> of oil carried thru the feed tube from under the cylinders is
> sufficient to spread it correctly in the T-junction to grease
> both rocker chambers (I have so far always seen oil in rocker
> chambers, although there was always more of it in the rear
> ones my plane is a taildragger).
> But the worrying truth seems to be that when warming the
> engine or taxiing at low rews (and even more so in a
> taildragger, although already 5 tilt seems to make a
> difference), there are good chances that fwd cylinder rockers
> and valve guides run dry!!!! My guess is that the quantity of
> oil delivered is insufficient and it only runs down the
> slope, towards the cylinder that is lower.
> This could be by the way one of the possible explanations why
> my valve guides were ruined after 100hrs and that my rocker
> bushings also show some premature wear.
> Has anybody any comment on these facts? Pete, Andy, do you
> guys consider it normal that the whole rocker chamber is not
> bathing in oil????? Any similar problems found/cured????
>
> Once at that subject, the SB 013-1 explained to us that vent
> holes and correct routing of the sump breather were supposed
> to enhance the return of oil from rocker chambers back to the
> sump, as if too much oil was delivered to the heads.
> Seemingly, I have the opposite problem (or at least I do have
> it on lower revs) isnt there a restriction between the
> main oil galley and the two tubes feeding oil to rocker
> chambers, that could be increased????
>
> I dont like the idea of running idle with no oil in my
> rockers/valves.
> Any input, guys????
> Martin
> Avid flyer w/Jab 2200
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129820#129820
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
thanks John.
Taildragger configuration makes it certainly worse, but my remarks concern the
airplane that is as level as an airplane can be ( +5 or -5 from horizontal keeps
fwd or rear cylinders dry....).
They also concern cold oil (engine just started); hot oil is probably worse.
I am tempted to think (but no proof to that) that keeping higher rpm while warming
up or taxiing could help.
martin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129846#129846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Fogelson <t_fogelson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
A bandaid that will help is a preoiler. Certified
ones are expensive, but if you adapt an auto one they
are reasonable. http://www.autoenginelube.com/ is one
that uses engine oil pressure to charge an accumulater
and then it traps the pressure after the power is shut
off. one to three quart accumulators.
Terry
--- avidflyer01 wrote:
> "avidflyer01"
>
> thanks John.
> Taildragger configuration makes it certainly worse,
> but my remarks concern the airplane that is as level
> as an airplane can be ( +5 or -5 from horizontal
> keeps fwd or rear cylinders dry....).
> They also concern cold oil (engine just started);
> hot oil is probably worse.
>
> I am tempted to think (but no proof to that) that
> keeping higher rpm while warming up or taxiing could
> help.
>
> martin
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129846#129846
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the
Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
| From: | "pequeajim" <pequeajim(at)gmail.com> |
What key switch are you guys using with your 3300?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129878#129878
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
| From: | "wypaul" <loadout(at)bresnan.net> |
I used the ACS switch from Aircraft Spruce, but if I were doing it today I would
just use toggle switches and a push-button. They are lighter, available anywhere
and cheaper.
Paul Spackman
Q-2 3300 Jabiru
--------
Paul Spackman
Q-2 Jabiru 3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129933#129933
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
I'm not flying my CH601XL yet but I second that suggestion. I went with an aircraft
type key switch "Off, Right, Left, Both, Start" from ACS but if I were doing
it again, I would use two toggle switches for the right and left mag and a
start button. One obvious benefit is that when you are doing maintenance or daignostics,
you can spin the engine with the starter while the mag switches are
off. The key won't allow that.
Dred
---- wypaul wrote:
>
> I used the ACS switch from Aircraft Spruce, but if I were doing it today I would
just use toggle switches and a push-button. They are lighter, available anywhere
and cheaper.
>
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 3300 Jabiru
>
> --------
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 Jabiru 3300
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129933#129933
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
Same here. The ACS switch does OK but is heavy and has some drawbacks.
The main drawback is that you can not run the starter engine for a few turns
with the magneto's off.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "wypaul" <loadout(at)bresnan.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300
>
> I used the ACS switch from Aircraft Spruce, but if I were doing it today I
> would just use toggle switches and a push-button. They are lighter,
> available anywhere and cheaper.
>
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 3300 Jabiru
>
> --------
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
| From: | "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com> |
Can the oil pressure sending unit be located on the lower port. My new sending
unit is larger diameter than the factory unti and won't fit in the regular location.
Attached photos show standard location and the plug port I want to use.
Thanks in advance
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129969#129969
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p6020013_153.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
Martin,
Thanks for the information - I find it very interesting. However, as a Jabiru dealer
having sold several hundred engines over the years I can't tell you it's
a problem I have either personally experienced, or had heard about from others
until now. It's true to say there are probably a greater number of tri-gear
Jabiru-engined airplanes out there, but equally true that there are a significant
number of taildraggers too. I'm sure your observations are correct for your
installation, but in my experience we don't see higher valve guide or rocker
bearing wear in heads at the front of taildragger installations. So we must assume
that the stem and bearings retain sufficient lubrication both before and
after flight.
However, we are educated by your posting and will look for particular signs or
trends in future. Thanks again.
Andy Silvester
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of avidflyer01
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: insufficient rocker chamber greasing ?????
hi guys, I would like to share some very worrying facts about my engine (2200 w/hyd
lifters) and maybe get some answers from those who have already been there.
I have just completed reassembling my engine after replacement of all valve guides
(both of N2 were completely worn out at 100hrs, others were replaced as precaution).
Today I started it and run for 5 min at 1200-1500rpm, then stopped
and made a close inspection. When I removed tapper covers, I discovered there
was some oil, as it should be the case, in rear rocker chambers (Ns 3 and 4)
but the forward ones were AS DRY AS PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY.
The airplane was sitting almost level, with tail slightly lower, maybe 5. Oil level
was slightly above minimum, as per SB 013-1. The oil pressure was (as always
both in flight and at idle) at 35psi.
After checking that the T junctions on oil feed line were not blocked and some
more thinking, I tilted the airplane more on the nose (3 nose down), cleaned rocker
chambers and run it again for 1 min at 1200rpm.
This time forward rocker chambers were correctly flooded with oil while the aft
ones were virtually dry, except a few drops.
I sincerely hope that at a higher power setting the amount of oil carried thru
the feed tube from under the cylinders is sufficient to spread it correctly in
the T-junction to grease both rocker chambers (I have so far always seen oil
in rocker chambers, although there was always more of it in the rear ones my
plane is a taildragger).
But the worrying truth seems to be that when warming the engine or taxiing at
low rews (and even more so in a taildragger, although already 5 tilt seems to
make a difference), there are good chances that fwd cylinder rockers and valve
guides run dry!!!! My guess is that the quantity of oil delivered is insufficient
and it only runs down the slope, towards the cylinder that is lower.
This could be by the way one of the possible explanations why my valve guides were
ruined after 100hrs and that my rocker bushings also show some premature wear.
Has anybody any comment on these facts? Pete, Andy, do you guys consider it normal
that the whole rocker chamber is not bathing in oil????? Any similar problems
found/cured????
Once at that subject, the SB 013-1 explained to us that vent holes and correct
routing of the sump breather were supposed to enhance the return of oil from rocker
chambers back to the sump, as if too much oil was delivered to the heads.
Seemingly, I have the opposite problem (or at least I do have it on lower revs)
isnt there a restriction between the main oil galley and the two tubes feeding
oil to rocker chambers, that could be increased????
I dont like the idea of running idle with no oil in my rockers/valves.
Any input, guys????
Martin
Avid flyer w/Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129820#129820
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
>From what I understand you can place it at some other place in the oil
circuit but your pressure reading will be a bit too optimistic. The factory
oil sender is located just before the oil pump, where the oil pressure is
the lowest in the chain. If you can, run both the original sender and the
new sender side by side and see what the difference is.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
>
> Can the oil pressure sending unit be located on the lower port. My new
> sending unit is larger diameter than the factory unti and won't fit in the
> regular location. Attached photos show standard location and the plug port
> I want to use.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
Martin,
Rob's almost right, but the standard position for the sender is right AFTER
the pump, so it'll measure higher than the lower position, which despite it
being only just below the sender, is actually at the other end of the oil
system. Between the two points are the oil cooler and filter, but the
'lower' point is the gallery supplying the bearings etc. My preference would
be to put the sender at the lower point, but this would have the sender
possibly interfering with the prop flange or other forward parts as it would
stand-out in front of the engine. If you can get a sender into the lower
point, by all means use it.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Turk
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
>From what I understand you can place it at some other place in the oil
circuit but your pressure reading will be a bit too optimistic. The factory
oil sender is located just before the oil pump, where the oil pressure is
the lowest in the chain. If you can, run both the original sender and the
new sender side by side and see what the difference is.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
>
> Can the oil pressure sending unit be located on the lower port. My new
> sending unit is larger diameter than the factory unti and won't fit in the
> regular location. Attached photos show standard location and the plug port
> I want to use.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
| From: | "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com> |
I used a ASC switch also, but I bought the switch that is a off, left & right only
model ,no start. I use a push button to start. This set up let me crank the
engine with the mags off.
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129986#129986
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
Hi Andy,
I just checked the drawings and it appears we're both wrong.. Looking at
page 93 of the inspection and maintenance manual (drawing 9493013-1), it
shows that oil from the oil pump goes to the 'donut' adapter, from there
through the oil cooler, then through the oil filter, and then into the oil
gallery. The pressure sensor sits right at the exit of the oil filter, but
before the oil gallery.
We have a bit low oil pressure reading when the run-in oil is hot, and we
connected a secondary sensor to the line feeding the oil cooler using a 'T'
adapter. Pressure reads about 5 psi higher than the original sensor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 8:47 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
>
>
> Martin,
>
> Rob's almost right, but the standard position for the sender is right
> AFTER
> the pump, so it'll measure higher than the lower position, which despite
> it
> being only just below the sender, is actually at the other end of the oil
> system. Between the two points are the oil cooler and filter, but the
> 'lower' point is the gallery supplying the bearings etc. My preference
> would
> be to put the sender at the lower point, but this would have the sender
> possibly interfering with the prop flange or other forward parts as it
> would
> stand-out in front of the engine. If you can get a sender into the lower
> point, by all means use it.
>
> Andy
> Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
> 39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
> Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
> www.suncoastjabiru.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
The security the switch gives is its best feature.You can easily wire from the
master a second lead to a push button tied to the starter energize terminal.
G Aman kolb MK-3 2200
I'm not flying my CH601XL yet but I second that suggestion. I went with an aircraft
type key switch "Off, Right, Left, Both, Start" from ACS but if I were doing
it again, I would use two toggle switches for the right and left mag and a
start button. One obvious benefit is that when you are doing maintenance or daignostics,
you can spin the engine with the starter while the mag switches are
off. The key won't allow that.
Dred
---- wypaul wrote:
>
> I used the ACS switch from Aircraft Spruce, but if I were doing it today I would
just use toggle switches and a push-button. They are lighter, available anywhere
and cheaper.
>
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 3300 Jabiru
>
> --------
> Paul Spackman
> Q-2 Jabiru 3300
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129933#129933
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Rairdin" <craig(at)craigr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
I had a Baron that didn't require a key but had a rotating key-like
switch
for the mags and starter. Since it didn't require a key, in order to
provide
some security there was a mic jack labelled COM3 inline with the
starter.
You had to insert a mic plug that had its tip and ring shorted to
provide a
connection for the starter. When you removed this plug the plane
wouldn't
start. Made it very difficult to steal. :-)
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
aman
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300
The security the switch gives is its best feature.You can easily wire
from
the master a second lead to a push button tied to the starter energize
terminal.
G Aman kolb MK-3 2200
dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
Thanks Craig, you have given me a good idea there. My key switch will of course
provide the anti-theft protection since without it, the mags can't be turned
on. I may use your shorted out 1/4" male mono plug as a more permanent way to
activate the starter solenoid with the mags switched off.
I didn't like the idea of a permanently installed second starter switch because
of the likelihood of activating it accidently. The extra jack labeled "Starter"
could not be activated without having the shorted out plug inserted. That's
enough safety for me, and as I said, it doesn't have to be camouflaged with a
misleading label for security in my case.
Thanks again for the idea,
Dred
---- Craig Rairdin wrote:
> I had a Baron that didn't require a key but had a rotating key-like switch
> for the mags and starter. Since it didn't require a key, in order to provide
> some security there was a mic jack labelled COM3 inline with the starter.
> You had to insert a mic plug that had its tip and ring shorted to provide a
> connection for the starter. When you removed this plug the plane wouldn't
> start. Made it very difficult to steal. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Rairdin" <craig(at)craigr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300 |
I put the plug on a key chain that had the door keys on it so it was easy to
keep track of. It sure fooled the mechanics when I didn't leave the keys in
the airplane but instead handed them to them. I got more than one call (from
the same guy each time) telling me they had a problem they couldn't figure
out ... The plane wasn't starting no matter what they tried. :-)
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dredmoody(at)cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Key Switch for JAB 3300
Thanks Craig, you have given me a good idea there. My key switch will of
course provide the anti-theft protection since without it, the mags can't be
turned on. I may use your shorted out 1/4" male mono plug as a more
permanent way to activate the starter solenoid with the mags switched off.
I didn't like the idea of a permanently installed second starter switch
because of the likelihood of activating it accidently. The extra jack
labeled "Starter" could not be activated without having the shorted out plug
inserted. That's enough safety for me, and as I said, it doesn't have to be
camouflaged with a misleading label for security in my case.
Thanks again for the idea,
Dred
---- Craig Rairdin wrote:
> I had a Baron that didn't require a key but had a rotating key-like switch
> for the mags and starter. Since it didn't require a key, in order to
provide
> some security there was a mic jack labelled COM3 inline with the starter.
> You had to insert a mic plug that had its tip and ring shorted to provide
a
> connection for the starter. When you removed this plug the plane wouldn't
> start. Made it very difficult to steal. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
| From: | "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com> |
So guys, is it ok to use the lower port?
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=130119#130119
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
Dan,
Yes, it's OK to use the lower port. I've looked at the Drawing Rob refers
to, and I think it's wrong. It's ambiguous the way it's drawn, showing the
connection through the oil pump output port, and down into the gallery, when
in fact the connection should stop at the (upper) pump output port. I'll
clarify with Jabiru and will post here if different. However, I've measured
the pressure at both points, and the lower port is definitely at a lower
pressure, consistent with it being after the cooler and filter. I note that
the drawing isn't included in the later manual version for hydraulic
lifters!
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DanM
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 1:48 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
So guys, is it ok to use the lower port?
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=130119#130119
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
Andy,
Thanks for looking into this. I'm very interested to hear what Jabiru's take
is on this.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:11 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location
>
>
> Dan,
>
> Yes, it's OK to use the lower port. I've looked at the Drawing Rob refers
> to, and I think it's wrong. It's ambiguous the way it's drawn, showing the
> connection through the oil pump output port, and down into the gallery,
> when
> in fact the connection should stop at the (upper) pump output port. I'll
> clarify with Jabiru and will post here if different. However, I've
> measured
> the pressure at both points, and the lower port is definitely at a lower
> pressure, consistent with it being after the cooler and filter. I note
> that
> the drawing isn't included in the later manual version for hydraulic
> lifters!
>
> Andy
> Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
> 39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
> Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
> www.suncoastjabiru.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure Sending unit location |
| From: | "DanM" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com> |
Thanks Andy & Rob, I'll watch the forum for any additional info on this subject.
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=130146#130146
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
As a result of finding several instances of a low frequency vibration I took
the opportunity when we had a week of bad weather to remove the prop ,
spinner and backing plate and spent three days balancing the set at home.
Very boring and tedious adding and taking 2mm screws, nuts and washers I
could only do it for an hour at a time. Any draft in the house and the prop
would move. When it was perfect and soon after in flight I got a very bad
scary low frequency vibration when decelerating and turning left at about
140KTS.Maybe precession triggered it off. Reducing throttle did not
immediately help.
I got the set up dynamically balanced and it took a 3/4X 7/16" bolt with nut
and two washers to correct the dynamic balance. I had been very satisfied
with the engine running but it ran smoother than ever before when the first
weight was fitted. The difference was very obvious. The prop/spinner and
backing plate are now NO WAY in static balance. I have marked the parts and
the prop shaft. The job took 4/4 hour and was done in the hangar.
It means that it was my engine that was badly out of balance and is now
corrected by the dynamic balancing of the prop/backing plate.
It means that if flywheel bolts are breaking it could be due to a poorly
balanced engine. My 3300 engine was factory rebuilt to zero hours in 2006.
Based on my experience I would recommend that all users get a proper dynamic
balance, making sure that the backing plate and spinner are in good sound
condition at the same time.
I understand that Pete and some others have got the equipment to do the job.
Peter H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=E9rme_Delamare?= <jeromedelamare(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Deposits in Oil Filter |
Jrme Delamare a crit :
> http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
>
> Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
>
> Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
>
> Is it normal ?
>
> I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
> compare. What and in *which quantity* should I find in a normal
> analysis?
>
Hi Jrme,
It is normal to find "some" metal particles in the oil filter at first
oil change. Of course the quantity and size must not be excessive.
Re the picture, bushing material comes to mind, camshaft bearings,
rockers, etc.
Re oil analysis, it is mainly a comparative method, though the
specialist can determine what looks normal and what doesn't.
Few people know that fixed base operators are offered free oil analyses
by oil distributors, so if you have a friend in the business you won't
have to pay ;-)
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Jerome as I understand it there will normally be some magnetic particles
due
to the bedding in of the rings. I found a significant amount in mine at
15hrs. There should be no non magnetic bearing material which is
normally
white.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, 22 August 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=E9rme_Delamare?= <jeromedelamare(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Peter you=92re right!
This morning, I tested again with a magnet the deposits obtained after
filtering. Nothing!
But=85 When I tested the fuel used to wash the oil filter with the same
magnet, I found magnetic particles! (sorry, I didn=92t had my camera
this
morning)
The particles are so small that they pass thru the paper during
filtering!
Of course, it=92s normal to find this magnetic dust. But is it normal to
find
those orange particles (size, quantity)?
http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
Did you, or someone else, observed those orange particles too?
Is there a link with those particles and a lubrication problem as
observed
by Martin?
J=E9rme
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Peter
Harris
Envoy=E9 : jeudi 23 ao=FBt 2007 00:02
=C0 : jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jerome as I understand it there will normally be some magnetic particles
due
to the bedding in of the rings. I found a significant amount in mine at
15hrs. There should be no non magnetic bearing material which is
normally
white.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, 22 August 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Jerome,
It=92s normal to find very small amounts of both ferrous (magnetic) and
non-ferrous material during the break-in phase. The crankshaft and
rod-end
bearings are probably contributing to the orange dust, as they bed-in.
Any
ferrous dust is coming from cylinder bores and / or piston rings as the
honed surfaces are bedded-in. It=92s good that you have taken the time
to
check at this stage, but more important to check later in the engine=92s
life
(say at 300 ' 400 hours). Bearing material being deposited in the
filter at
that stage indicates wider problems.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: insufficient rocker chamber greasing ????? |
Martin-
Go back and look at the archives of this list (around May 8 of this
year) and you'll see my write-up of the problem I had with my rocker
arm bushings. I always had oil when I had to pull my covers for valve
clearance adjustment, which seemed to be too often. One day I noticed
flakes of a brass-color inside the covers. During some research of
the problem, it was suggested that I drill out the restriction in the
tube you mentioned (at the oil gallery) to the next size number
drill, which I did, but I don't recall what the size was right now,
but the next size drill was only 3 or 4 thousands of an inch larger.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/369+ hrs
On Aug 19, 2007, at 12:36 PM, avidflyer01 wrote:
>
>
> hi guys, I would like to share some very worrying facts about my
> engine (2200 w/hyd lifters) and maybe get some answers from those
> who have already been there.
> I have just completed reassembling my engine after replacement of
> all valve guides (both of N2 were completely worn out at 100hrs,
> others were replaced as precaution). Today I started it and run for
> 5 min at 1200-1500rpm, then stopped and made a close inspection.
> When I removed tapper covers, I discovered there was some oil, as
> it should be the case, in rear rocker chambers (Ns 3 and 4) but
> the forward ones were AS DRY AS PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY.
> The airplane was sitting almost level, with tail slightly lower,
> maybe 5. Oil level was slightly above minimum, as per SB 013-1.
> The oil pressure was (as always both in flight and at idle) at 35psi.
> After checking that the T junctions on oil feed line were not
> blocked and some more thinking, I tilted the airplane more on the
> nose (3 nose down), cleaned rocker chambers and run it again for 1
> min at 1200rpm.
> This time forward rocker chambers were correctly flooded with oil
> while the aft ones were virtually dry, except a few drops.
> I sincerely hope that at a higher power setting the amount of oil
> carried thru the feed tube from under the cylinders is sufficient
> to spread it correctly in the T-junction to grease both rocker
> chambers (I have so far always seen oil in rocker chambers,
> although there was always more of it in the rear ones my plane is
> a taildragger).
> But the worrying truth seems to be that when warming the engine or
> taxiing at low rews (and even more so in a taildragger, although
> already 5 tilt seems to make a difference), there are good chances
> that fwd cylinder rockers and valve guides run dry!!!! My guess is
> that the quantity of oil delivered is insufficient and it only runs
> down the slope, towards the cylinder that is lower.
> This could be by the way one of the possible explanations why my
> valve guides were ruined after 100hrs and that my rocker bushings
> also show some premature wear.
> Has anybody any comment on these facts? Pete, Andy, do you guys
> consider it normal that the whole rocker chamber is not bathing in
> oil????? Any similar problems found/cured????
>
> Once at that subject, the SB 013-1 explained to us that vent holes
> and correct routing of the sump breather were supposed to enhance
> the return of oil from rocker chambers back to the sump, as if too
> much oil was delivered to the heads. Seemingly, I have the opposite
> problem (or at least I do have it on lower revs) isnt there a
> restriction between the main oil galley and the two tubes feeding
> oil to rocker chambers, that could be increased????
>
> I dont like the idea of running idle with no oil in my rockers/
> valves.
> Any input, guys????
> Martin
> Avid flyer w/Jab 2200
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Jerome,
The picture looks like white particles on an orange thumb !
I did not find orange coloured particles. If this is the first filter
scan
there may be traces of sealant or something else. It would be best to
ask
the dealer who would have wider experience. Are you sure it is not rust?
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Thursday, 23 August 2007 9:11 PM
Subject: RE : JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Peter you=92re right!
This morning, I tested again with a magnet the deposits obtained after
filtering. Nothing!
But=85 When I tested the fuel used to wash the oil filter with the same
magnet, I found magnetic particles! (sorry, I didn=92t had my camera
this
morning)
The particles are so small that they pass thru the paper during
filtering!
Of course, it=92s normal to find this magnetic dust. But is it normal to
find
those orange particles (size, quantity)?
http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
Did you, or someone else, observed those orange particles too?
Is there a link with those particles and a lubrication problem as
observed
by Martin?
J=E9rme
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Peter
Harris
Envoy=E9 : jeudi 23 ao=FBt 2007 00:02
=C0 : jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jerome as I understand it there will normally be some magnetic particles
due
to the bedding in of the rings. I found a significant amount in mine at
15hrs. There should be no non magnetic bearing material which is
normally
white.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, 22 August 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=E9rme_Delamare?= <jeromedelamare(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
De : owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Peter
Harris
Jerome,
The picture looks like white particles on an orange thumb !
Sorry, I=92ll use a white paper next time. All particles on the paper
are
orange.
I did not find orange coloured particles.
In my oil filter, it was impossible not to see them. So perhaps it=92s
not
really =93normal=94 to find them ;o)
If this is the first filter scan there may be traces of sealant or
something
else.
The particles are really brilliants. It=92s impossible to confuse with
sealant.
It would be best to ask the dealer who would have wider experience.
Of course I asked my dealer. He has no information to tell me if it=92s
a
normal wear during break=92 in or not.
I will send my oil to analysis, but without a real feedback of Jabiru I
can
just compare with a precedent analysis. By this way, it=92s just
possible to
detect when a NEW problem occur.
JABIRU SHOULD GIVE US A TYPICAL ANALISYS OF WHAT WE SHOULD FIND IN THE
OIL.
So, we could diagnostic problems during the first hours of the motors.
Are you sure it is not rust?
Yes ;o)
Peter H
Thank you for your feed back Peter.
J=E9rme
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Thursday, 23 August 2007 9:11 PM
Subject: RE : JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Peter you=92re right!
This morning, I tested again with a magnet the deposits obtained after
filtering. Nothing!
But=85 When I tested the fuel used to wash the oil filter with the same
magnet, I found magnetic particles! (sorry, I didn=92t had my camera
this
morning)
The particles are so small that they pass thru the paper during
filtering!
Of course, it=92s normal to find this magnetic dust. But is it normal to
find
those orange particles (size, quantity)?
http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
Did you, or someone else, observed those orange particles too?
Is there a link with those particles and a lubrication problem as
observed
by Martin?
J=E9rme
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
Peter
Harris
Envoy=E9 : jeudi 23 ao=FBt 2007 00:02
=C0 : jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jerome as I understand it there will normally be some magnetic particles
due
to the bedding in of the rings. I found a significant amount in mine at
15hrs. There should be no non magnetic bearing material which is
normally
white.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, 22 August 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=E9rme_Delamare?= <jeromedelamare(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Deposits in Oil Filter |
Thank you Andy,
I appreciate that you've answered my question. I just would like to be
sure
not to find a problem too late as other people on this list.
For the moment my engine works fine!
J=E9rme
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Andy
Silvester
Envoy=E9 : jeudi 23 ao=FBt 2007 13:45
=C0 : jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jerome,
It=92s normal to find very small amounts of both ferrous (magnetic) and
non-ferrous material during the break-in phase. The crankshaft and
rod-end
bearings are probably contributing to the orange dust, as they bed-in.
Any
ferrous dust is coming from cylinder bores and / or piston rings as the
honed surfaces are bedded-in. It=92s good that you have taken the time
to
check at this stage, but more important to check later in the engine=92s
life
(say at 300 ' 400 hours). Bearing material being deposited in the
filter at
that stage indicates wider problems.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
39248 South Ave, Zephyrhills, FL 33542
Tel: (813) 779 2324 Fax: (813) 779 2246
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
J=E9rme
Delamare
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Deposits in Oil Filter
Jabachat of May 2007 advise to cut the filter and wash it in fuel in
order
to look for deposit:
http://www.jabiru.net.au/Jabachat/Jaba%20Chat%20May%20%202007.pdf
I did it after the first 25 hours. My friend Marc cut the filter
carefully
(no dust). After filtering the fuel:
* http://jeromedelamare.free.fr/deposit/DSCN3651.JPG
* Test with a magnet : no magnetic parts
* Visual inspection: very small orange metal dust (valve guide?)
Is it =93normal=94 ?
I would like to send the oil for analysis but I have no reference to
compare. What and in which quantity should I find in a =93normal=94
analysis?
J=E9rme
P.S.
Jabiru 2200 N=B02092, hydraulic lifter, SB13 before first run, oil
cooler,
break in with Aeroshell 100, +0,3l of oil during 25 hours of break in,
maximum temps never exceed)
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 on ebay |
| From: | "promod69camaro" <shawn-bishop(at)verizon.net> |
Hi everyone. First post here...I think. Yesterday, I bid on and won a Jabiru
3300 on ebay. It is located in New Zealand. I have not heard back from the person
who is selling it yet.
Do any of you happen to know of this engine? I want to make sure it exist and
is not a scam of some sort. I am not implying a scam, I just want to make sure
I am not taken advantage of.
The reason I ask is because no one bid against me and it ended up a really nice
bargain if I can just get my hands on it.
Thanks,
Shawn
--------
Sport Pilot (almost) - Waiting for good weather to take flight exam.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=130788#130788
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 on ebay |
Hi Shawn,
If things went the way you say then you are one lucky b*stard..
Congratulations!
Make sure you get all records with the engine before paying good money. Ask
the current owner for the engine history. Watch out for signs of a prop
strike. You will want to get the serial number of this engine and post it
here for comments. Old engines may require some work to get to good
condition again. There are a few known stolen engines as well. Make sure you
don't buy one of those or you'll end up having no source for spares...
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "promod69camaro" <shawn-bishop(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 3300 on ebay
>
>
> Hi everyone. First post here...I think. Yesterday, I bid on and won a
> Jabiru 3300 on ebay. It is located in New Zealand. I have not heard back
> from the person who is selling it yet.
> Do any of you happen to know of this engine? I want to make sure it exist
> and is not a scam of some sort. I am not implying a scam, I just want to
> make sure I am not taken advantage of.
January 09, 2007 - August 24, 2007
JabiruEngine-Archive.digest.vol-ab