Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bi
March 07, 1999 - March 22, 1999
>> >> Good Luck,
>> >> Danny
>> >>
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> Guys its true I too called Disney myself... they
>are
>> >>>standing
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> behind it 100% So send, send, send, send, okay?
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> > >> >
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> Folks, I called Disney my damn self. It's no lie.
>> >GET
>> >>>IT
>> >>>>DONE!
>> >>>>>>>> >>> >
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> Disney message & $5,000.00
>> >>>>>>>> >>> >
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> If you read below you will see the note from Walt
>> >>Disney
>> >>>Jr. &
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > Management
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> at Disney World.
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> Basically if this messages reaches 13,000 people,
>> >>>everyone will
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > receive
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> $5,000.00 or a
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> free, all expenses paid, trip to Disney World in
>> >>anytime
>> >>>during
>> >>>>>>>> >>> the
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>summer
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> of 1999.
>> >>>>>>>> >>> >
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> See the note below - its worth it!!!!
>> >>>>>>>> >>> >
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> Everyone is to resend to 15 individuals. Please
>read
>> >>>and
>> >>>>>>>> >>> forward to
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > as
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> many friends
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> as possible...we've checked up on this and this
>is no
>> >>>joke of a
>> >>>>>>>> >>> chain
>> >>>>>>>> >>> > >>> letter
>> >>
>> >> WALT DISNEY JR. GREETING
>> >>
>> >>Hello Disney fans,
>> >> And thank you for signing up for Bill Gates' Beta Email
>> >>>>Tracking
>> >> My name is Walt Disney Jr.
>> >> Here at Disney we are working with Microsoft which has just
>compiled
>> >an
>> >>e-mail tracing program that tracks everyone to whom this message is
>> >>forwarded to It does this through an unique IP (Internet Protocol)
>> >>addresslog book database. We are experimenting with this and need
>your
>> >>help. Forward this to everyone you know and if it reaches
>> >>13,000 people,1,300 of the people on the list will receive $5,000,
>and
>> >>the rest will receive a free trip for two to Disney World for one
>week
>> >>during the summer of 1999 at our expense. Enjoy.
>> >>
>> >> Note: Duplicate entries will not be counted.
>> >> You will be notified by email with further instructions
>> >>>once this email has reached 13,000 people.
>> >> Your friends, Walt Disney Jr., Disney, Bill Gates, & The Microsoft
>> >>Development Team.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>______________________________________________________
>> >>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>> >
>> >
>> >______________________________________________________
>> >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>> >
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Billy Jones <bjones8103(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm new to the list and have already checked the archives with no
results (although I know they are there). What's the best iron out
there for shrinking fabric. Looking for one that holds temps
consistantly.
BJones in Houston
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Nothin to do with kolb but please take a look just |
might be somethin..
BULLSCHIETT.GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff / Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MK-3 speeds? |
Bill,
>Are the above speeds off your ASI or are they corrected for your known error?
>Also, what about Vfe (max speed with flaps extended)?
They are not corrected at all and are not accurate speeds, just indicated
for my plane and my ASI. To be correct you would have to subtract 10 mph
on the bottom end gradually subtracting up to 15 mph on the top end. I
don't know the Vfe, but I would think around low cruise.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50+ hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MK-3 speeds? |
>Also, what about Vfe (max speed with flaps extended)?
>
>Bill
>
You won't need to worry too much about flying too fast with the flaps
extended. If you are flying too fast, you'll need arms like Jesse (The
Governor?!?) Ventura to pull that lever down.
If you want hard numbers: I need to slow to about 55 to comfortably
lower
the flaps if I am going to use all 40 degrees. If I only want 15 degrees of
flaps, I can pull that down at 60.
I keep an airspeed of 55-60 on final when using flaps, and carry throttle
all the way to just above touchdown, unless I am flying a steep approach.
If you have not landed a MKIII with full flaps before, plan for a very
steep approach angle if you have the throttle at idle. You will tend to
freak out as the ground rush becomes acute just before roundout. There is a
natural tendency to start flare too high, and then you will be 12" off the
ground with your airspeed rapidly diminishing. Plan ahead, and get
accustomed to it.
A MKIII with full flaps and idle throttle flies a STEEP approach.
If you are using part throttle and full flaps to fly a shallow approach,
plan on the airspeed and the airplane falling away as soon as you pull the
power off. MKIII flaps at 40 degrees are WONDERFULL airbrakes.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Dave and your buddy:
I recommend you take your differences bc. This is not the
place for that crap.
Just one member of the Kolb Builder's List.
john h
Loveman David wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Dave, again, you were not removed from the list for your
> knowledge. It was the way you presented it. I'm on several lists, BTW,
> including this Kolb list. Have been for 2 years.
> > Do not slam the list I created, on other
>
> I did not slam you or your list. I am not doing anything different on this
> list than I was on yours. I would be more than happy to be back on your list
> but I call a spade a spade, and ALWAYS have evidence to back it up.
> I am putting forward information relative to the problems associated with
> flying our craft. Some seem to believe that I have some hidden motives. Some
> on the Challenger list seemed to think I have a hate on for the Challenger,
> I never put anything out that was not true, that I did not have first hand
> knowledge of.
> There was nothing I put out on the Challenger list that I have not put out
> on other lists, only TWO people have ever complained, or attacked me for it.
> Both Challenger dealers!
> Dave Loveman
> I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
> http://www.ultralightnews.com
>
> Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil in float bowl |
Hey Ralph...
There's nothing wimpy about not flying in weather you're not comfortable with.
There's an old pilot saying that applies to this very situation......"I'd
rather be on the ground wishing I were flying, then in the air wishing I was
on the ground" Stay safe..
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nothin to do with kolb list |
Sorry this message was not intended to be put up on the mailing list
sorry for the inconvinence but when i went to send it i just seleted all
of my e-mails and kolb-list happened to be one sorry everyone- Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil in float bowl |
>
>Thanks Ben,
>. How many of you guys empty the float bowl
>after every flight? Maybe this is something I should start doing?
If you fly every 6 momths or so it would be a good idea but for a few days
or weeks it probably would not be worth the bother.
I decided that it would be too bumpy to fly, so
>didn't even set it up. Am I turning into a wimp or what?
Sometimes you put your balls on the line for the fun of it and sometimes
you protect them from possible danger. Different days different attitudes
different circumstances. Only you can be the final judge.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ain't oil in float bowl, no more |
Man these message content and subject titles are tough to keep up on.
Changing the message topic if you decide to go off or change the topic
makes it easier to fine things later.
Thanks
>
>Hey Ralph...
>There's nothing wimpy about not flying in weather you're not comfortable
with.
>There's an old pilot saying that applies to this very situation......"I'd
>rather be on the ground wishing I were flying, then in the air wishing I was
>on the ground" Stay safe..
>Steve Kroll Mk2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Shettel <mshettel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | this new firestar pilot |
Hi all
Thanks, to the people on this list! After months of lurking and
learning I've chosen a Kolb for my first ultralight. Two weeks ago
became the proud owner of Rutledge Fullers firestar. Wow! what a sweet
airplane. Put 4 hours on it this last week, just flying around the
airport, getting acquainted with her. I do have questions about engine
warm up in cold weather. Outside air temps been in the 35 F range.
Im running the engine fast enough to stabilize the cylinder head temps
at 210 degrees. Is this proper for a Rotax 377? Is their anything else
I should be looking for?
Maurice
New Cumberland, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Draining Carburetor |
The discussion tonight triggered a memory from outboard motor days. For
years, it was SOP to unplug the gas line when you were done flushing the
motor. ( after running in salt water ). Let it run till the RPM started
to rise, which indicated a leaning mixture, ( and a drained carb ) then
kill the motor. Idea was to get the fuel mixture out of the carb, but not
to run it completely dry, so as to leave some lubrication on the rings and
cyls. Never gave too much thought as to "why," just did it like everybody
else, cause every-one knew that that's what you did. Huh ??
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil in float bowl |
Ralph,I have never emptied the float bowls after flying and never had a
problem as you describe. Oh yeah, I have oil injection with 635 hours on it
with out any problems. Now the EGT and CHT gauges I have seen move around a
bit but that is usually the connections on the pins or at some other
location. I can usually just touch them and bring them back to proper
reading or leave them alone and after a while they do it in flight by
themselves. A little die-electric grease helps on the connections. I do use
Sta-bil in the fuel when I store for any length of time. My Fisher 202 with
277 has this in it and I run it every 30 to 45 days. It has always cranked
and run properly with 1 or 2 pulls after sitting. I don't know how it works
I just know it works.-- Firehawk--
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 2:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: oil in float bowl
>
>Thanks Ben,
>
>I do feel a little like superman when I can leap tall trees. This must be
>what causes the arrogance that I see in some of us. On the serious side,
>I keep all my fuel sealed in plastic gas cans to keep the moisture out. I
>also seal the gas cap with a piece of duct tape when it's in the garage.
>I have to remember to remove it before flight.
>
>Dave L. talked about leaving fuel in the float bowl will cause gum and
>varnish to build up. This is something I never gave much thought to until
>now. Maybe this
>is what is causing the initial EGT to be high. The initial fuel/oil mix
>has a lower ratio and after the first half hour of flight, the fuel has
>wiped clean the residual oil left from the previous flight and then
>becomes more of a 50:1 mix. How many of you guys empty the float bowl
>after every flight? Maybe this is something I should start doing?
>
>I brought the plane out to the field this morning thinking it might be a
>good day to fly (forecasted winds, 12mph). Got out there and the winds
>picked up and were gusting up to 25mph. It was a direct crosswind. My
>buddy flew in and landed that Original FireStar in that wind. This guy is
>some FireStar pilot. I decided that it would be too bumpy to fly, so
>didn't even set it up. Am I turning into a wimp or what?
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>
> writes:
>
>>I think frequent flying is the reason ethanol fuels have not caused
>>any
>>corrosion problems in Ralph's engines. Ralph's love for playing
>>superman
>>over the frozen lakes all thru Winter are good for Ralph *and* his
>>engine.
>>I bet it's those engines that sit still from Nov thru Apr that suffer.
>>
>>-Ben Ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <realaccess(at)jps.net> |
Plus think that maybe these is some mixup here: The IVO literature that I
have seen does not give a 19 degree setting. The max on the literature I
have in front of me says 17 degrees. Possibly you may be looking literature
that is for another propeller? The IVO has 2 differetn adjustment
mechanisms: one adjusts with the moving of shims, the other adjsut by
turning a large diam threaded screw. Does this describe your propeller?
Dennis
I am definetly showing how new I am to this sport with my statement that the
prop is pitched at 19 degrees. I did not check the angle at the hub first
to get my zero setting. Now that I have checked it, I read about 10 1/4
degrees at the hub. So my prop pitch is about 9 degrees! I have not
adjusted the prop myself, but the instructions say to loosen the bolts and
twist the blade to the desired angle. I am not absolutely sure what my
static rpm is, I think it is at 6300 rpm, which I am told would be just
right. This is also a new concept to me and now I understand that prop
pitch is a big factor in determining static rpm. I plan to determine my
static rpm before I go up again.
I called the guy that I bought the plane from and he said that everything I
was telling him sounds acceptable. I am mixing at 50:1, EGT at 1100, CHT at
350, cruise at 5100 rpm at 55 mph. So he suggested that my idle mixture may
be too rich and that is causing my plugs to be black. So I think I am very
close to having everything right and the credit goes to the previous owner
because he sold me a plane that was right on and ready to go.
Dennis, thank you for your input(and everyone else who responded to my
question). But I am especially honored that the owner of the company that
builds the kits for my plane would take the time to give advice. This is
the sort of thing that keeps confirming to me that I made the right choice
when I decided to buy a Kolb.
Brian Hale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff / Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>> I'm new to the list and have already checked the archives with no
>> results (although I know they are there). What's the best iron out
>> there for shrinking fabric. Looking for one that holds temps
>> consistantly.
>> BJones in Houston
To all,
I used a Black/Decker non-stick "silverstone" bottom plate or something
like that iron for around $30. It was a great non-stick iron and was very
easy to clean when it infrequently got a little Polytac on it with MEK.
You have to calibrate it like the plans describe and re-calibrate if you
drop it. I only needed the little hobby iron once that I remember. I
could have done without the hobby iron. Be careful not to over shrink the
tail feathers and ailerons and flaps. It will happen quick before you know
it. Be careful. The whole process is fun and shrinking is the icing on
the cake. Ironing finishing tape edges is tedious (a cool iron) and you
can shrink the edges easily causing a wiggley edge (not good).
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50+ hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Safety tip - fan belt |
One of the most neglected areas of the Rotax aircraft engine is the
adjustment of the fan belt. One reason is that it is difficult to get at in
most installations - thus it is ignored in preflight.
A simple way of making it easy to inspect the belt is to remove one of the
"EARS" from the fan cover. I usually remove the one that is opposite the
exhaust that way I don't have to go over the exhaust to inspect the belt.
Use a knife or pair of wire cutters to clip the "EAR" off
EAR just below the reinforcing. For more information and pictures
http://www.ultralightnews.com/news/fanadjust.htm
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: late night hrs |
Add this one to the list of wild possibilties for an eng to richen up after
running for a while. How 'bout that teeny weeney hole drilled in the bottom of
the fuel pump casting being clogged and clearing itself after a good hard run
? Could be !
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: late night hrs |
>
> Add this one to the list of wild possibilties for an eng to richen up
after
> running for a while. How 'bout that teeny weeney hole drilled in the
bottom of
> the fuel pump casting being clogged and clearing itself after a good hard
run
> ? Could be !
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
The hole in the fuel pump is incase the diaphram fails. Its purpose is to
allow fuel to vent, 1. so that you know the pump has failed when you see the
fuel.
2. so that the pump still pumps fuel, if the hole isn't there then fuel gets
caught between the diaphram and wall, which stops the pump from working,
since the area is now solid with liquid instead of air.
Exactly why do you feel the engine is running rich after awhile?
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight chat room |
I plan on being on the Chat room each Monday night starting at 9:30 P.M.
EST. So if you have any problems, or things you would like to discuss, with
engines, props, parachutes, floats etc used in our sport drop in. You get to
it from the front page of Ultralight News.
I am also looking for guest speakers, so if you have a topic you would like
to moderate let me know. Like me you could become "a legend in your own
mind."
Dave Loveman
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
the instructions say to loosen the bolts and
>twist the blade to the desired angle.
>Brian Hale
THis sounds like you are talking about a warp drive prop not an IVO prop.
If it is Warp then You will want to use the Protractor that came with it to
set the blades. You need to use the protractor at a certain distance out
along the blade to get the right setting as the blades are twisted. I dont
know but it is at about 75% of the blade length... Any Warp drive owners
know exact procedure.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Xwind landing technique |
Hi everybody,
Went flying yesterday, real nice out, clear for once, although still
a little cold. I was sitting up there in the sky and remembered that
I forgot to pass on a good tidbit I learned from a flight a month ago.
On that occassion I was doing a bunch of touch &goes on a narrow grass
strip with a 90 degree cross-wind of 12mph and some gusting.
I was doing fine and glad to be getting the practice and stopped to
chat with my farmer friend there and my dad, both pilots. They had one
piece of criticism: Why the heck was I flying my base leg with the wind
behind me? I responded that this was because I chose a pattern direction
(left or right) based on wanting to make my crosswind leg into the wind
since at that time I don't necessarily have a good em landing spot in
front of me as I would while on base. Their next question to me was
"well, why aren't you then just flying both the crosswind leg and the
base leg into the wind?" (this results in a figure 8 pattern for T&Gs).
Nobody else flies at this strip so there was absolutely no reason not to.
So, I learned a good little safety tip that day and thought I'd pass
it on.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel level gauge info |
My fuel gauge also behaves in this way and it is caused by the float
traveling through an arc while the fuel level measured is linear. We
typically install the float arm pivot point where the end of travel of the
float arc is just touching the bottom since the gauge is calibrated at
"empty" with the arm hitting the low end stop. Since the arc angle
increases much faster in the low fuel region compared to the mid to high
fuel level where the float arm is almost horizontal and the arc increase is
the lowest, it gives the impression that the fuel usage is higher. Since
the available arc travel is larger than the size of the tank there is some
spare arc leftover at the top and my gauge never reads "full" because of
this. This uneven use of the available arc adds to increase the difference
of low versus high fuel level readings.
Frank Reynen MKIII@485hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3.hmtl
Richard Bluhm wrote:
>
>left. I have also learned the last half tank dissipates "much" faster
> than the first half. Now that I am use to this, it is no problem.
> Hope this helps.
> regards
> Doc
Hey Doc and Kolb Gang:
My MK III does the same thing, hits half a tank and the
bottom falls out. My sight gauge shows fuel until the last
4 gals, then it really goes fast, even quicker than at half
a tank. When I can't see the fuel in the tube I sit on the
edge of my seat until we find a gas pump.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
>
> the instructions say to loosen the bolts and
> >twist the blade to the desired angle.
> >Brian Hale
>
To adjust the prop you need a protractor, if one is not supplied you can
pick one up from a local hardware store, it's called an angle finder.
Have your plane sitting level preferably in a hangar, out of the wind.
Depending on your engine you are trying to obtain an rpm static that is
about 300 less than what is recommended for straight and level full power
application.
So walk up to the prop turn it so that the blade you are working on is
horizontal. Use the protactor to find out what your angle is at the hub.
Now measure the angle of the blade at the 3/4 mark from the hub to the end
of the blade.
Compare the measurement, the difference between the hub and blade are your
degrees. Set to that recommended by the manufacturer. Or if you don't have
that you can set each blade, then rev your engine up. If the engine revs
more than for example a 503 dual carb is 6500 rpm straight and level - you
would want 62 to 6300 static - you have to put more pitch into each blade.
If the engine only revs to 6,000 you have to take pitch out.
Remember to torque the bolts and safety wire or locnut them when you
finish.
You must have a Warp Drive or a GSC - the IVOPROP now comes with the quick
adjust hub, which you just turn the adjuster in the center of the hub and it
adjusts all blades at the same time.
If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you USE an
extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike the wing,
if the spacer is not used.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: oil in float bowl |
On Sun, 7 Mar 1999, Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
> is what is causing the initial EGT to be high. The initial fuel/oil mix
> has a lower ratio and after the first half hour of flight, the fuel has
> wiped clean the residual oil left from the previous flight and then
> becomes more of a 50:1 mix. How many of you guys empty the float bowl
> after every flight? Maybe this is something I should start doing?
Ralph,
Maybe it is gum in the jets but I had a somewhat similar experience
yesterday that made me think it could be your sender wire junctions.
I had one of my CHTs start bad yesterday and slowly creep into the
correct range. I stopped, got out, and pushed on the taped wire bundle
where all my probes are connected to sender wires and that corrected
the problem. I'll undo the bundle and fix the poor contact connection
before next flight. The super low voltage created by our bimetal
sensors is easily affected by a small change in resistance anywhere
between the probe and gauge.
On emptying the carb fuel bowl: I do it if I have any reason to make
me wonder if there might be water or crud that might have settled in
there. I figure it is good to check it once in awhile just to have
the knowledge that there is absolutely nothin except clean fuel in
there. As well, it is good to empty it if you re-connect a fuel
line (e.g. from tank or pulse pump), simply for the benefit of being
able to visually verify that fuel is traveling freely to the bowl
when you squeeze the primer bulb or turn on the electric facet pump.
If you reconnect a fuel line when the bowl is full, a squeeze to the
bulb will only compress air in the line and you cannot see fuel
moving into the bowl.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
Maurice wrote:
Hi all
Thanks, to the people on this list! After months of lurking and
learning I've chosen a Kolb for my first ultralight. Two weeks ago
became the proud owner of Rutledge Fullers firestar. Wow! what a sweet
airplane. Put 4 hours on it this last week, just flying around the
airport, getting acquainted with her. I do have questions about engine
warm up in cold weather. Outside air temps been in the 35 F range.
Im running the engine fast enough to stabilize the cylinder head temps
at 210 degrees. Is this proper for a Rotax 377? Is their anything else
I should be looking for?
Maurice
New Cumberland, Pa
LOOK! THIS KITFOX THING AINT WORKIN' OUT. I WILL BE UP TO RECLAIM MY
BABY THIS WEEKEND!
RUTLEDGE (INDIAN GIVER) FULLER
TALLAHASSEE,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>
>I'm new to the list and have already checked the archives with no
>results (although I know they are there). What's the best iron out
>there for shrinking fabric. Looking for one that holds temps
>consistantly.
>BJones in Houston
>
>
We usually use the one our wives don't want. Otherwise you may be in
serious trouble. I usually pick them by price. I won't go more than 2 bucks
at a yard sale. Calibrating is easy. Dig through your airplane parts box and
bring out your CHT guage. Rig up the sender to it and place it under the hot
iron. Using your fabric manual as a reference, mark the proper temps on the
dial. If you don't have a CHT go buy one now you need it anyway. Don't try
to get your fabric tight when you glue it on. Keep it very baggy and you can
get full shrink on your fabric.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
>Now measure the angle of the blade at the 3/4 mark from the hub to the end
>of the blade.
>Dave Loveman
But according to Ben Ransom:
>Warp procedure calls for measurements at the tip.
I have heard these two procedures both before and only one of them can be
right. So will somebody so has a WARP Manual please read it to us over the
net please?
Ben Ransom talked to Brian on the phone since he lives nearby and he *does*
have an IVO
and the protractor. SO where would you use the protractor on the IVO... I
have heard 75% most often.. I have heard 50% and 100% on occasion. I vote
for 75% cause that is where the bulk of the thrust comes from so that is
where you should be setting the pitch. Unless the manufacturers guidline
chart is done differently.
TOPHER
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Late night hours |
Dave Loveman.. My E-mail on this subject was sent in response to one posted by
R Pike, a frequent and knowledgeble contributor to this list. He was
responding to an E-mail from another individual that was concerned that his
engine (fuel mix ) seemed to richen after a sustained period of flight. Pike
was burning the late night oil speculating on what could cause such a
condition.
I stand by my suggestion that partial clogging of the fuel pump "weep" hole
could contribute to this condition. It's purpose is to allow any fuel that may
accumulate on the pulse side of the diaphram to vent overboard. It is .017
inches in diameter to allow venting but not significantly degrade the pressure
pulses that move the diaphram. It is particularly useful in cases where the
fuel pump is mounted in a such a way that fuel accumulating in the pulse line
can not drain back in to crankcase by gravity.
Welcome to our network
Duane the plane in Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
You can measure the prop at the 3/4 mark or the end - as long as you measure
ALL blades at the same spot. The purpose is to get the blades all set the
same, and then dial it in to the proper engine rpm.
Most tips are do not have enough flat area for the protractor to sit level
on it.
Also if you want the actual degrees of pitch it is normally taken from the
point 3/4 out the blade.
I have a digital degree angle finder, and have made a cradle up for it so
that it uses the outside edges of the blade, thus I can take the measurement
anywhere along the blade. But the secret is to set all the blades equal so
that the engine revs out to between 200 and 300 rpm less than recommended
for full power application.
If you have an IVO that the blades turn in the hub it is a VERY old prop,
and was actually produced by Warp Drive under the IVO name - a long story.
BEFORE you fly check the hub for blade movement, and the blades for failure
at the ball on the end of the blade. DO NOT fly with this prop unless you
check these two areas.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Myron Hammer <wally1(at)nvc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar |
Rutledge Fuller wrote:
>
>
> Maurice wrote:
> Hi all
> Thanks, to the people on this list! After months of lurking and
> learning I've chosen a Kolb for my first ultralight. Two weeks ago
> became the proud owner of Rutledge Fullers firestar. Wow! what a sweet
> airplane. Put 4 hours on it this last week, just flying around the
> airport, getting acquainted with her. I do have questions about engine
> warm up in cold weather. Outside air temps been in the 35 F range.
> Im running the engine fast enough to stabilize the cylinder head temps
> at 210 degrees. Is this proper for a Rotax 377? Is their anything else
> I should be looking for?
>
> Maurice
> New Cumberland, Pa
>
> LOOK! THIS KITFOX THING AINT WORKIN' OUT. I WILL BE UP TO RECLAIM MY
> BABY THIS WEEKEND!
>
> RUTLEDGE (INDIAN GIVER) FULLER
> TALLAHASSEE,FL.
>
**************Kisses************
>>
>> Kisses blown are kisses wasted
>> Kisses aren't kisses unless there tasted
>> Kisses spread germs and germs are hated,
>> So kiss me baby, i'm vacinated!!
>>
>> Send this to at least 10 people and you will be
>> kissed by your crush within 24 hours.
>> If you don't send this to at least 10 people,
>> you will have bad luck with kisses forever!!
>> >>
>>
>>MMMMMUUUAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>>=o*
>>
>>--part9_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part8_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part7_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part6_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part5_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part4_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part3_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part2_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part1_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--part0_919010315_boundary--
>>
>>--------------3AA46E8179E5--
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>==
>>Luv,
>>Sarah or aka Justinlover
>>Stay 'N Sync!
>>
>>_________________________________________________________
>>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Late night hours |
>
> I stand by my suggestion that partial clogging of the fuel pump "weep"
hole
> could contribute to this condition. It's purpose is to allow any fuel that
may
> accumulate on the pulse side of the diaphram to vent overboard. It is
.017
> inches in diameter to allow venting but not significantly degrade the
pressure
> pulses that move the diaphram. It is particularly useful in cases where
the
> fuel pump is mounted in a such a way that fuel accumulating in the pulse
line
> can not drain back in to crankcase by gravity.
>
> Welcome to our network
>
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee,FL
While it might be possible that this is the problem it is not likely, since
snowmoible engines use the same pump and they have no hole.
If mounting the pump
The pump should be mounted, preferably on rubber, away from heat,and no more
than 12 inches from the vacumn source, with the weeper hole facing down, and
the pump located ABOVE the vacumn source. The line used to operate the pump
should be of a thick enough wall that it is not effected by heat, and the
sides to not collapse. On all single and dual carb 503's you should be using
a dual pump with single carb engines having the two outlets joined together
with a T which then runs to the carb.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
Does anyone have a MK lll for sale?You can reply to my E-mail.
Thanks,
Richard Webb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Need 582/532 Muffler |
Hey Kolbers,
Anybody out there got a 582 or 532 muffler you want to sell? I'll
even consider one that has a crack in it. I can give it a good home!
---Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Brian Hale's EGT |
Brian,
I think the question is moving from prop pitch to plug color and EGT.
If your plugs are too dark (blackish) and you know the prop is close
to correct starting point for pitch and you know the carb jets (main,
mid-range, idle, and the needle too ) are standard I would next:
- dbl check do you have the correct plugs
- are they gapped correctly? (.016" i think)
- clean the air filter to make sure it isn't restricting air flow
resulting in too rich a mixture.
- if you don't know how old the plugs are just get new ones and
see how they color with a test run --either tethered or test flight.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Dave, the Original FireStars do NOT need the extension for the IVO prop.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered with 2-blade IVO
>If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you USE
>an
>extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike the
>wing,
>if the spacer is not used.
>
>Dave Loveman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I was prompted this weekend to make a comment for you guys that trailer
and setup as I do. Most of you probably know this already, but for the
benefit of the new guys, this may prevent you from damaging your wings
someday. The setup of your plane should always be oriented crosswind
under windy conditions. I was setting up one day when I learned this
lesson: The winds were gusting up to 20mph with the plane oriented into
the wind. The wings were laying on the ground and as I was pushing one of
the clevis pins into place, the other wing lifted and was flying. I was
able to run around to the other side and catch it before the wind let up
and dropped it. Got lucky! From then on, I always set up crosswind to
prevent this from happening.
When I go to a fly-in and leave the plane unattended, I will take a long
bungee cord and hook it into the crossmember tube by the seat, wrap it
around the top of the stick, then hook it on the opposite crossmember
tube. I turn the plane into the wind and off I go. Keeps the wind from
ruining the hinges and the kids from playing with the controls.
Speaking of kids around the plane, one fly-in I remember a few years
back, my buddy saw some kid swinging on his lift strut like it was a
jungle gym. Man, did he have a few words with that kid. What ticked me
off was the parents were nearby doing nothing to stop their child.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel pump weep hole |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I have a new pump and the weep hole is not leaking, however, I had a pump
that did leak from the weep hole. Turned out to be a tiny leak in the
diaphragm. On that test flight, I had just changed the fuel pump and did
not see any leaks in preflight. On takeoff, the engine ran smooth until I
throttled back. It was kicking me in the back and I thought it was going
to quit. This was in the winter over a frozen lake, which by the way, is
an ideal place to test new things (if it did quit I could land anywhere).
Nursed it back to the trailer, and landed. The fuel was weeping out of
the pump.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>I stand by my suggestion that partial clogging of the fuel pump "weep"
>hole
>could contribute to this condition. It's purpose is to allow any fuel
>that may
>accumulate on the pulse side of the diaphram to vent overboard. It is
>.017
>inches in diameter to allow venting but not significantly degrade the
>pressure
>pulses that move the diaphram. It is particularly useful in cases
>where the
>fuel pump is mounted in a such a way that fuel accumulating in the
>pulse line
>can not drain back in to crankcase by gravity.
>
>Welcome to our network
>
>Duane the plane in Tallahassee,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody...
I'm flying a 503 with points and 41 hours....it is still running as strong as
the first day with no signs of timing change..plugs are brown...6100rpm
.......950egt...the manual says it's not an option but I hate to mess with it
if it isn't broke.....any suggestions?
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
>
> Anybody...
> I'm flying a 503 with points and 41 hours....it is still running as strong
as
> the first day with no signs of timing change..plugs are brown...6100rpm
> .......950egt...the manual says it's not an option but I hate to mess
with it
> if it isn't broke.....any suggestions?
> Steve Kroll
I would suggest you check the timing you just need a dial indicator and a
buz box. Hook you buzx box up to the ignition wires (disconnect the switch)
the other lead to a ground.
Install the dial indicator, bring one of the pistons to top dead center now
turn it back .086 thou from top dead center and the buzz box should stop
buzzing.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGrooms511(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need 582/532 Muffler |
Richard;
I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few dents in
it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still worked
when I took it off a month ago.
I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
W Grooms
In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
One of the guys in my club did just that, but he used a digital level.
Said it was faster, easier, and far more accurate. Big
Lar.
----------
> From: Loveman David <ultralightnews(at)excite.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop settings
> Date: Monday, March 08, 1999 12:18 PM
>
>
>
>
> >
> > the instructions say to loosen the bolts and
> > >twist the blade to the desired angle.
> > >Brian Hale
> >
> To adjust the prop you need a protractor, if one is not supplied you can
> pick one up from a local hardware store, it's called an angle finder.
> Have your plane sitting level preferably in a hangar, out of the wind.
> Depending on your engine you are trying to obtain an rpm static that is
> about 300 less than what is recommended for straight and level full power
> application.
> So walk up to the prop turn it so that the blade you are working on is
> horizontal. Use the protactor to find out what your angle is at the hub.
> Now measure the angle of the blade at the 3/4 mark from the hub to the
end
> of the blade.
> Compare the measurement, the difference between the hub and blade are
your
> degrees. Set to that recommended by the manufacturer. Or if you don't
have
> that you can set each blade, then rev your engine up. If the engine revs
> more than for example a 503 dual carb is 6500 rpm straight and level -
you
> would want 62 to 6300 static - you have to put more pitch into each
blade.
> If the engine only revs to 6,000 you have to take pitch out.
> Remember to torque the bolts and safety wire or locnut them when you
> finish.
> You must have a Warp Drive or a GSC - the IVOPROP now comes with the
quick
> adjust hub, which you just turn the adjuster in the center of the hub and
it
> adjusts all blades at the same time.
> If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you USE an
> extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike the
wing,
> if the spacer is not used.
>
> Dave Loveman
> I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
> http://www.ultralightnews.com
>
>
> Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Group: A little while back we all had a discussion on the difference
between # 10, 3/16, & # 12 bolt sizes. If memory serves me, ( awright,
awright ) I think it was fairly definitely stated that the 3 are different,
by some small amount. So took an AN3 nut to the local Ace aircraft supply,
( I'm joking, this is for a non-structural application ) and told them I
wanted a 3/16 X whatever bolt for this nut. Knowledgeable lady that I know
quite well said "Nope, that's a # 10." Aha, said I, I have been recently
educated by the Kolb List, and THIS IS a 3/16. Well, she became polite,
but distant, ya know. So I came home, opened up the A/C Spruce bible, and
prepared to prove her wrong. Guess what ?? I've always believed that AN
diameters are in 16ths, so AN3 is 3/16, AN4 is 1/4, AN5 is 5/16 and so on.
On the "3" it ain't so. Had to place an order any way, so asked the ACS
guy on the phone about it. Yup, he said, AN3 is a #10 ! ! ! What gives,
guys ?? I'll admit it when I'm wrong, all right, but I'm not crazy about
it, plus now I gotta go back down there and eat crow. What did I
mis-understand ?? Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce" <bwf(at)wavetech.net> |
| Subject: | Prop 3 Blade vrs 2 |
Two questions on a Kolb 3
1. What are the advantage of 3 blades over 2? (912)
2. Has any one put the throttle on the left side? if so how.
Thanks
Bruce
bwf(at)wavetech.net
>Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Hi Group: A little while back we all had a discussion on the difference
> between # 10, 3/16, & # 12 bolt sizes. If memory serves me, ( awright,
> awright ) I think it was fairly definitely stated that the 3 are different,
> by some small amount. So took an AN3 nut to the local Ace aircraft supply,
>
Big Lar and Gang:
Don't think you owe anyone an explanation or appology.
AN3 is 10-32 is 3/16 with 32 threads per inch.
AN4 is 1/4-28 is 1/4 with 28 threads per inch.
Anyhow, right or wrong, that's the way we size em in
Alabama.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop 3 Blade vrs 2 |
Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce"
Two questions on a Kolb 3
1. What are the advantage of 3 blades over 2? (912)
2. Has any one put the throttle on the left side? if so how.
Thanks
Bruce
No opinion on 3 versus 2 blades for the 912, but I have the throttle on the
left side and really like it.
In the CPS book under "Throttle Quadrants", I am using a type A, and it is
attached by welding 4 tabs to the side tubes of the fuselage before you
cover it.
Use permanently attached blind nuts on the back side of the tabs.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop 3 Blade vrs 2 |
>
> Kolb-List message posted by: "Bruce"
> Two questions on a Kolb 3
> 1. What are the advantage of 3 blades over 2? (912)
> 2. Has any one put the throttle on the left side? if so how.
> Thanks
> Bruce
>
>
> No opinion on 3 versus 2 blades for the 912, but I have the throttle on
the
> left side and really like it.
> In the CPS book under "Throttle Quadrants", I am using a type A, and it
is
> attached by welding 4 tabs to the side tubes of the fuselage before you
> cover it.
> Use permanently attached blind nuts on the back side of the tabs.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
On my SeaRey with a 912 I found the 3 blade to be quieter, smoother and to
give me a better cruise.
The advantage of a three blade is that if you have power and a limited
length, the extra blade is able to take up the power.
Dave Loveman
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 582/532 Muffler |
>
> Richard;
> I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few dents
in
> it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still
worked
> when I took it off a month ago.
> I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
> W Grooms
> In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
>
>
>
>
>
>
The 618 uses a muffler that is different than all the other two stroke Rotax
engines. All of the other MUFFLERS and 90 degree elbows, not Y pipes, will
fit on the 532.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brian Hale's EGT |
speaking of air filters: Are any of you restricting the leading side of the
air filters to prevent ram air and subsequent leaning of the fuel mixture in
the "up wind" carb ? I've heard people say that to equalize the carbs they
place a piece of sheet metal or duck tape on the leading side of the up wind
air filter. Is this partially why it is/was recommneded that we use the large
oval dual carb filter - so each carb is drawing from the same air mass so to
speak?
What are your thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brian Hale's EGT |
In a message dated 3/9/99 11:15:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, ToddThom(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Are any of you restricting the leading side of the
air filters to prevent ram air and subsequent leaning of the fuel mixture in
the "up wind" carb ? >>
This is an interesting theoretical question. I don't know any authoritative
discussion of the problem. It makes sense to suggest that the upwind carb
could have a little more pressure, but the airframe and engine is so draggy
that it's hard to believe that the air isn't all scrambled by the time it get
to the front carb. If you are worroed do what I do: use a double air filter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Xwind landing technique |
Their next question to me was
>"well, why aren't you then just flying both the crosswind leg and the
>base leg into the wind?" (this results in a figure 8 pattern for T&Gs).
>Nobody else flies at this strip so there was absolutely no reason not to.
>-Ben Ransom
I think I followed this but am not sure...
Say it is a north south runway with a west wind.
are you saying you flew over the middle of the runway on "downwind" flying
southeast, making it a real downwind to some degree, and flew your base and
crosswind both wet and landed to the north?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Suunto altimeter,ROC, digital compass |
I got a Suunto Vector watch and had to return it due to the temp sensor
being bad, but I did play with it a bit... the compass works very well, very
accurate as long as it is level. The altimeter was set for 11000 feet and
the lowest I could get it set was for 8000 due to the temp gage thinking it
was -175 degrees. same thing for the barometer setting. Anyway I am
wondering if anyone has got one of these and used it in flight yet. Any
word of mouth as to if they hold up in general?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop 3 Blade vrs 2 |
In the pusher mode 3 blades are quieter than two blades.
3 blades unfortunally are less efficent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Xwind landing technique |
> >"well, why aren't you then just flying both the crosswind leg and the
> >base leg into the wind?" (this results in a figure 8 pattern for T&Gs).
> >Nobody else flies at this strip so there was absolutely no reason not to.
> >-Ben Ransom
On Tue, 9 Mar 1999, Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
> I think I followed this but am not sure...
> Say it is a north south runway with a west wind.
> are you saying you flew over the middle of the runway on "downwind" flying
> southeast, making it a real downwind to some (45) degree, and flew your
> base and crosswind both west and landed to the north?
Yes. -Ben Ransom
<---
\ |
\
\ |
\| ---wind--->
\
|\
| \
| \
\
| \
| <---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: this new firestar pilot / new firestar |
If the engine quits on landing( this happens to me about every 100 hrs) I
always find the idle jet plugged up with brown whatever. It happened to quite
a few of our group last season.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Cold seizure - it can happen in summer or winter! |
Cold Seizure
This is probably the most reported problem that occurs on a 532/582 Rotax
liquid cooled engine. In many cases the pilot doesn't even know that he has
had a cold seizure! So what is it and how does it happen? Remember this is
a
liquid cooled engine (cold seizures also occur on air cooled engines and
for
the same reason - next post). Here is an example of a situation in which a
cold seizure could occur.
A pilot flying on skis is sitting at the end of a runway, impatiently
waiting for traffic to land and clear off the runway. During this time his
engines has been idling. The runway is finally clear and he applies full
power and takes off , about two thirds of the way down the runway and about
500 feet in the air the engine suddenly quits. The pilot is forced to make
an emergency landing. Once down on the ground the engine starts and runs
again.
At this point the pilot will usually do one of two things, try to find out
why the engine quite - or start the engine and try another take off.
What has happened is that the engine coolant has been cooling in the rad,
in
winter in cold temperatures, this can mean that the temperature is down
below 100 degrees F. The engine on the other hand is under load and is
creating heat, the pistons are expanding. As the cold liquid enters the
area
around the cylinders, the cylinder shrink and this causes a cold seizure.
The problem is that cold seizures in most cases seizure only a part of the
ring. This allows enough compression for the engine to continue to run. One
of the first things pilots will notice after a cold seizure is that they
generally cannot achieve full rpm on run up and climb out. In one case over
a 50 hour period a pilot repitched his prop 4 times to a finer pitch, and
dejetted his carbs down to 148 main jets from 165's before calling for
help.
The use of adjustable radiators, thermostats, proper flow rates , the use
of
EGT gauges, and water temperature gauges, and proper pilot take off and
landing procedures all help in eliminating Cold Seizures.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
>
>
>
>>
>> the instructions say to loosen the bolts and
>> >twist the blade to the desired angle.
>> >Brian Hale
>
>So walk up to the prop turn it so that the blade you are working on is
>horizontal. Use the protactor to find out what your angle is at the hub.
>Now measure the angle of the blade at the 3/4 mark from the hub to the end
>of the blade.
For us non technical folk we just set the prop with the aircraft sitting
in its favourite position. No need to get the prop hub level. Put the
protractor on the blade tip and give about 10* twist. Spin the prop around
and set the other blade to the same degree. This will give you somewhere to
start guessing from. Start the engine and check your tach for Proper
reading. Too fast give it more pitch to slow it down. Too slow take off
pitch to speed it up. Use the protractor as a reference to get both blades
even. I can usually get it right in about 4 tries. You don't need it at the
75% mark because you are setting the prop for you on your own machine.
Actual measurements may vary from plane to plane.
Dick (The crude country Hick) Wood
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 582/532 Muffler |
Mr. Grooms,
Thanks for the response. If it doesn't fit, I can make it fit. I need a
temporary engine to fly my SlingShot while I'm working on my Geo 4-stroke. I
scrounged a bunch of parts & am putting together a 582, but lack a muffler. How
much would you want for it?
---Richard Swiderski
WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Richard;
> I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few dents in
> it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still worked
> when I took it off a month ago.
> I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
> W Grooms
> In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 582/532 Muffler |
Richard and Gang:
I ain't the List policeman, but this private bartering for a
muffler is of no interest to the majority of the list.
Might ought to take it bc.
Thanks,
john h (just one member of the List)
Richard wrote:
>
>
> Mr. Grooms,
>
> Thanks for the response. If it doesn't fit, I can make it fit. I need a
> temporary engine to fly my SlingShot while I'm working on my Geo 4-stroke. I
> scrounged a bunch of parts & am putting together a 582, but lack a muffler.
How
> much would you want for it?
> ---Richard Swiderski
>
> WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Richard;
> > I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few dents in
> > it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still worked
> > when I took it off a month ago.
> > I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
> > W Grooms
> > In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Policemen |
John,
Your point is right on. Thanks for sticking your neck out. Anybody know how
to
program a computer to say, "Do you REALLY want to sent this letter?" after you
hit
that "Send" button? I know one person that would buy that program! ---Richard
S
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Richard and Gang:
>
> I ain't the List policeman, but this private bartering for a
> muffler is of no interest to the majority of the list.
> Might ought to take it bc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> john h (just one member of the List)
>
> Richard wrote:
> >
> >
> > Mr. Grooms,
> >
> > Thanks for the response. If it doesn't fit, I can make it fit. I need
a
> > temporary engine to fly my SlingShot while I'm working on my Geo 4-stroke.
I
> > scrounged a bunch of parts & am putting together a 582, but lack a muffler.
How
> > much would you want for it?
> > ---Richard Swiderski
> >
> > WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Richard;
> > > I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few dents
in
> > > it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still worked
> > > when I took it off a month ago.
> > > I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
> > > W Grooms
> > > In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
What I think I know is:
Number sizes (2,4,6,8,10,12) are the number times 0.013" plus 0.060".
So a 10 would be 0.190" and a 3/16 would be 0.1875".
It seems to be as good a place as any to switch from fractions of an
inch to number sizes. I have some 2 X 56 taps. Little bitty guys.
Makes more sense than 1/16" or 6/64th or whatever. Like I said, around
the 3/16 or 10 seems a good place to make a transition that has to be
made somewhere.
Woody (the other Woody)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
A
>Install the dial indicator, bring one of the pistons to top dead center now
>turn it back .086 thou from top dead center and the buzz box should stop
>buzzing.
>Dave Loveman
Buzz boxes don't stop buzzing. They change pitch as the points start to
open. This is the point you listen for. Adjust the points so the pitch
change occurs at the proper measurement from tdc. When you find the correct
height before tdc mark the flywheel and case so you dont need the dial
indicator every time you want to set the timing. Buzz boxes are low tech
affairs so don't spend more than 5 bucks on one. You can make one for 3 bucks.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Policemen |
What your seeing is the results of the vote that was taken some time back.
Since this mail server does not allow you the ability to reply directly to
the sender like it used to, or like it could be now, you see a lot of
needless messages. I tried to persuade our list admin to include the
senders address in the ability to reply, but I got out voted so probably
50% of the messages the reply could go directly back to the sender. I have
to weed more and he has to archive more. I hope his disk soon fill up so
he's see's the sense of what I suggested.
People didn't want duplicate messages for the ones the originated (even
that could have been fixed) plus others didn't want to have to reply to all
instead of just reply. If the Admin would just made it where you could
reply to all then you could delete the Kolb list from the addresses.
Easier the copy and paste or typing by hand.
I've gotten where I don't even look at many messages any more because so
many are off topic since there really replies directed at the originator.
If you noticed when this was changed many of the regulars at that time have
slowly faded away for the most part. Less useful information taking to
much time to scan through it all. So we all get a lot of extra messages
and the Admin's disk fill up. Hate to say this but it is turning into I
told ya so.
Happy as a clam sorting and deleting messages!
>
>John,
> Your point is right on. Thanks for sticking your neck out. Anybody
know how to
>program a computer to say, "Do you REALLY want to sent this letter?" after
you hit
>that "Send" button? I know one person that would buy that program!
---Richard S
>
>John Hauck wrote:
>
>>
>> Richard and Gang:
>>
>> I ain't the List policeman, but this private bartering for a
>> muffler is of no interest to the majority of the list.
>> Might ought to take it bc.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> john h (just one member of the List)
>>
>> Richard wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Mr. Grooms,
>> >
>> > Thanks for the response. If it doesn't fit, I can make it fit. I
need a
>> > temporary engine to fly my SlingShot while I'm working on my Geo
4-stroke. I
>> > scrounged a bunch of parts & am putting together a 582, but lack a
muffler. How
>> > much would you want for it?
>> > ---Richard Swiderski
>> >
>> > WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
>> >
>> > >
>> > > Richard;
>> > > I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few
dents in
>> > > it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and
still worked
>> > > when I took it off a month ago.
>> > > I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
>> > > W Grooms
>> > > In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
>> > >
>> >
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brian Hale's EGT |
Todd
I assume your talking about a 2 stroke with the air filters on the side to which
I
can't comment. Regarding the 912 with tapered air filters facing forward did
create a lean mixture problem for me. The problem was corrected by replacing the
tapered filters with round flat ones.
Terry
ToddThom(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> speaking of air filters: Are any of you restricting the leading side of the
> air filters to prevent ram air and subsequent leaning of the fuel mixture in
> the "up wind" carb ? I've heard people say that to equalize the carbs they
> place a piece of sheet metal or duck tape on the leading side of the up wind
> air filter. Is this partially why it is/was recommneded that we use the large
> oval dual carb filter - so each carb is drawing from the same air mass so to
> speak?
>
> What are your thoughts?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
Kolbers
A couple of days ago someone offered to sell B.R.S. parachutes at
cost,Does anyone rember his address.
thanks
Howard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Howard, I have a brand new 700 Second Chanze for $400 in a soft pack I'll
sale you. __Firehawk
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Ping <hping(at)hyperaction.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS
>
>Kolbers
>A couple of days ago someone offered to sell B.R.S. parachutes at
>cost,Does anyone rember his address.
>thanks
>Howard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brian Hale's EGT |
toddthom, as far as ram air effect of leading carb i don't believe it is or
can be a problem since the carb(s) is/are perpendicular to the flow of wind
............... tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com> |
| Subject: | Brakes for a Firestar |
Well my homebrew design for brakes didn't work well enough (more like not at
all). I am puckering up too much taxiing on the ramp near that expensive GA
hardware able to only coast to a stop so I am getting close to trying to buy
a commercial brake system. Hayes brakes makes a beautiful lightweight
system for mountain bikes but the disc diameter would make it difficult to
adapt to the ultralight wheels. They are pretty pricey too. Would like a
lightweight system since I never really would use them except for taxi
control (if I had them, that is). Did a list search and saw a hit for Matco
and what seemed like a thumbs down on Asuza(?). Any reccomendations from
the list would be appreciated.
Tired of taxiing tensely on the ramp in Colorado
Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
My buddy has Matco hydraulic discs on a Firestar & loves them.
Howard Shackleford
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Anybody...
I'm flying a 503 with points and 41 hours....it is still running as strong as
the first day with no signs of timing change..plugs are brown...6100rpm
.......950egt...the manual says it's not an option but I hate to mess with
it
if it isn't broke.....any suggestions?
Steve Kroll >>
Steve,
As you read in the manual, the points should be checked and adjusted, if
required, within the first 10 to 20 hours of operation. The reason is that
the points rubbing block wears (or seats in) during this breakin time and thus
the point gap can change, which also means the timing changes. Checking the
ignition timing is easily acomplished with the proper tools. Adjusting the
timing is also not so difficult, BUT it can be time consuming, especially if
it is your first attempt at doing so. However, like everything else about
building and flying, it can be learned. Just follow the instructions. BTW,
if a new set of points are ever installed, they also would have to be checked
at 10 to 20 hours. After that, it has been my experience that the timing
rarely changes, although I continue to check it about every 50 hours just to
be sure.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
323+ hours with the original set of points
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
I have two years and about 135 hours on the asuza brakes on the MKIII and
they are doing ok. Bought the backing plates from Northern, and the drum
and spacers from Wicks. Cheaper that way.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Well my homebrew design for brakes didn't work well enough (more like not at
>all). I am puckering up too much taxiing on the ramp near that expensive GA
>hardware able to only coast to a stop so I am getting close to trying to buy
>a commercial brake system. Hayes brakes makes a beautiful lightweight
>system for mountain bikes but the disc diameter would make it difficult to
>adapt to the ultralight wheels. They are pretty pricey too. Would like a
>lightweight system since I never really would use them except for taxi
>control (if I had them, that is). Did a list search and saw a hit for Matco
>and what seemed like a thumbs down on Asuza(?). Any reccomendations from
>the list would be appreciated.
>
>Tired of taxiing tensely on the ramp in Colorado
>
>Gregg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
Hey Group;
Ever since I shattered one of my prop blades, my flying has been
restricted to what I read here on this list.
Can you imagine, two and a half years ago, I ordered a new IVO three
blade prop and now that one blade is destroyed I can't just replace
it... I appears that IVO has re-designed their props and one must be
special made to conform with the "older" style blades like mine. I must
(however) get a new (bored) hub that will match both the new blade and
my "older" blades. What a bummer.
Keep up the talking on this list, as this ground-bound dirt rider has
plenty of time to read them. I should have a couple more weeks to just
read and read and read.
I now know what you builders must feel as you read this list and can't
go out and feel the power. (Thats right!!! I miss the power...)
Tomorrow I think I shall drain the fuel from my MK III tanks.. Then I
will walk around a lot...
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
For a neat look at Ben Ransom's Brakes that he designed and
built for his F/S KXP:
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/a5brakes.html
-Mark-
West Coast Fly-In '99 at PRB Apr30 - May 2
Paso Robles Ultralight ASSN
Bradley, CA
Any reccomendations from
>the list would be appreciated.
>
>Tired of taxiing tensely on the ramp in Colorado
>
>Gregg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need 582/532 Muffler |
A word of caution about Rotax exhaust systems:
Rotax designs / engineers these exhaust systems for each engine. The 618
systems is very different from the 582 because it needs to be. I don't think
the exhaust gas expansion equation of the 618 systems matches any where near
the equation of the 582 and there fore the performance of the 582 will most
likely suffer. If you aren't looking for performance then OK but you will
probably have idle and starting problems since the engine will not scavange
properly without the proper backpressure which is created by the "engineered
exhaust system" - which is specific to the engine.
In very simple terms, scavanging is the ability of the engine to pull fuel
into the cylinder and hold it there for burning via the timing of the
backpressure exhaust wave. When the wave pulse is releaved then the exhaust
system actually helps the engine to draw fuel into the cylinders for the next
burn. This timing is critical for the performance of the engine. This means
that the overall performance can be radically affected by the exhaust system.
All Rotax two stroke exhaust systems are "tuned" systems. they are build as a
compromise between power and reliability. You can get more power and RPM's
but you'll decrease the reliability and TBO as a general rule.
BUt, heck, who knows. MAybe the dang thing will run great.
On the other hand maybe it will run like a Fer_son. Oops, sorry, I couldn't
resist.
Call LEAF, CPS or GReensky and see what they have to say before you plop down
your cash.
Good luck and let me know how it works ...or doesn't.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Greg,
I have the brakes that Kolb sells on my Firestar. After I got good bearings
in my wheels and changed to drums with flanges, they work good. I particularly
like the heal brake levers from Kolb. Using the Kolb brakes, I can make landings
that are so short that observers are amazed. And there is little risk of setting
it on it's nose.
Also, with the Kolb heal brakes, the Firestar II can turn on a dime. A word
of caution here though. There is more chance of tipping on the nose while
"turning on a dime" than on short landings. In order to turn on a dime, the tail
wheel needs to be lightened with power while one grake is held. A little too
much power, or gust of tail wind, and it could nose over. Don't ask how I know.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
| Subject: | this new firestar pilot / new firestar |
Paul:
Your mention of "brown Stuff" in carb bowl could be from deterioration of plastic
floats. You might check the bottom side of floats where they slide on pin
in bowl through metal bushing in float. Galling and deterioration of that area
has been known to cause residue which could plug carb circuits.
Steve Spence
S.E. Michigan
-----Original Message-----
From: PaulSpadin(at)aol.com@inetgw2
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: this new firestar pilot / new firestar
If the engine quits on landing( this happens to me about every 100 hrs) I
always find the idle jet plugged up with brown whatever. It happened to quite
a few of our group last season.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Walking story |
Michael Highsmith wrote:
> Doc, Please tell us what happened to the IVO prop to cause it to be
> destroyed on your MKIII
> Firehawk---
Okay Firehawk, but I'll make it short..
A couple weeks ago I posted a short story about loosing a clevis pin. I
later discovered it had an infinity for the prop blade. (Do you
remember??)
I'll use this moment to let everyone with an IVO prop over two years old
know that they are now making the prop without the metal inserts for the
mounting bolts. This makes the prop lighter (it must be balanced for use
with the older blades) and compressed thinner within the hub (giving
need for counter boring)..
For those interested in comparing props: These blades are "very" smooth
and relatively quite. It is worth considering them, even if they
continually change the design. I had asked why they changed and the
story I received was something like: Any third generation contingency
propability will dictate recripical capabilities beyond previous aspect
demands that warrant continual thoughts on this behalf. (?????)
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Hmmmmm,
My last time out I started to change my opinion of my home-made brakes
to "no good". They just aren't as powerful as I'd like, so I would not
recommend them. I may work on some improvement ideas I have, or just
scratch and spend some money for something else.
A week or two ago I noticed an ad' in the back of a UL magazine I've
not seen before. It is a glossy, not a newspaper thing like UF!. In it
there was an ad' for hydraulic brakes that fit the Azusa wheels. $200 for
the pair and only 20 oz weight each side. I might give that guy a call.
In the past I've also criticized the Azusa drum brakes. One of the
problems I had when using them was a gear leg shimmy when applying brakes.
I thought this was cuz the brake drum wasn't exactly round, or at least
not concentric with its centering hole. But I've come to find I can get
that shimmy a little bit with my current brakes, which are not subject
to any variations cuz there is nothing to be out of round. I think it
is just the gear leg being free to spring fore/aft as well as up/down.
Soooooo, the point here is that maybe even the original Azusa brakes
are okay after all, if not a bit heavy for the task. -Ben Ransom
On Tue, 9 Mar 1999, Mark Swihart wrote:
> For a neat look at Ben Ransom's Brakes that he designed and
> built for his F/S KXP:
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/a5brakes.html
>
> -Mark-
> West Coast Fly-In '99 at PRB Apr30 - May 2
> Paso Robles Ultralight ASSN
> Bradley, CA
>
> Any reccomendations from
> >the list would be appreciated.
> >
> >Tired of taxiing tensely on the ramp in Colorado
> >
> >Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | mufflers are not all created equal |
>
>
> Mr. Grooms,
>
> Thanks for the response. If it doesn't fit, I can make it fit. I
need a
> temporary engine to fly my SlingShot while I'm working on my Geo
4-stroke. I
> scrounged a bunch of parts & am putting together a 582, but lack a
muffler. How
> much would you want for it?
> ---Richard Swiderski
>
> WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Richard;
> > I have a muffler for a 618 that I would sell Cheap. It has a few
dents in
> > it, but has been coated with a silver finish (and no rust), and still
worked
> > when I took it off a month ago.
> > I don't know if a 618 muffler will work on a 532, but I think it will.
> > W Grooms
> > In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley
> >
If you are "scrounging" parts for a complete engine and actually get it
running you must be smart enough to know that the exhaust volume and length
is critical to the engine attaining the powerband it needs to match the
torque requirements of the prop load. I understand the 618 muffler is
"flattened" to make it more aerodynamic, but I bet it is bigger in volume
than the stock one for the 582. You may wish to make some measurements
before spending any time on it. A seizure or a loose exhaust component
going thru your prop will ruin your whole day, gauranteed. It would be a
shame to have to spend six months rebuilding your brand new Slingshot, just
because you were trying to save a hundred dollars.
Now, for something you guys might actually WANT to hear:
I noticed in the CPS catalog last night, they sell used parts at about 50%
off, for all rotax engines. They stated they don't sell complete used
engines, for liability reasons. Might be worth calling them.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | gear legs for mkiii |
I asked Dennis at Kolb about a month ago about those tapered steel gear
legs' availability, he said "Not yet.". Dennis; are the 7075 aluminum legs
heat treated after machining? I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you metal-urgists:
is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
Anybody know where I can mail order UPS-able 7075 stock in 1 3/8" diameter,
for a few experiments?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UPS-able metals |
Group
I don't know if they have 7075 but they do have a lot of UPS-able material.
https://ssl.adhost.com/onlinemetals/merchant.cfm
Ron Reece
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Shettel <mshettel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UPS-able metals |
try The Dillsburg Aeroplane Works address is 114 Sawmill Road,
Dillsburg, Pa. 17019. Tel: 717/432-4589
Alum round 7075 T-651 1 3/8" $10.00/ len. feet $12.50 cut
Maurice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
gerken(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
> Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
> suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you metal-urgists:
> is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
Howdy Gang:
I quite using aluminum gear legs in 1986. Been using my own
design of heat treated 4130 legs since then to make many,
many thousands of landings, most not too good and some
downright bad. I still use them today on my MK III.
7075 aluminum is hardened, much harder than 6061 and 2024.
It has been heat treated, but not as hard as a steel
spring. Must be a reason. When was the last time you saw
an aluminum spring on an 18 wheeler, pickup truck, Geo
Metro??? Don't remember seeing too many aluminum springs
period.
I am no metal-urgist or engineer. Just learn be
experimenting, failing many times and then succeeding. I've
been flying my success for a long time, paid for by a heap
of mistakes. But the challenge, mistakes, failures, and
successes, are what keep it interesting.
Don't Have To Archive.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
John
Been there done that too. Looks pretty silly as a lawn dart. Oh well.
I do have a problem with the drum brakes though. I know it's me and I
just need to be put on the right path but.............. I just can't get
the brakes adjusted so that I can push the thing and still have enough
brake to use on my short field. I have loosened the drum and adjusted
many many many many times but I still have the "high" spots that make the
adjustment useless. Anyone know what I can do about the problem. Yeah,
I know I can get new brakes but is this a problem you guy's have solved?
I was thinkin about movein the attachment point on the heal brakes
further from the hinge point to give me more throw. That would allow me
to adjust the brakes so I can at least push the plane to the strip
without gettin a heart attack. What's the fix? I too really don't want
to spend 500 bucks for new brakes.
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gthacker(at)mciu.org
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
On Wed, 10 Mar 1999, John Jung wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> I have the brakes that Kolb sells on my Firestar. After I got good bearings
> in my wheels and changed to drums with flanges, they work good. I particularly
> like the heal brake levers from Kolb. Using the Kolb brakes, I can make landings
> that are so short that observers are amazed. And there is little risk of setting
> it on it's nose.
>
> Also, with the Kolb heal brakes, the Firestar II can turn on a dime. A word
> of caution here though. There is more chance of tipping on the nose while
> "turning on a dime" than on short landings. In order to turn on a dime, the tail
> wheel needs to be lightened with power while one grake is held. A little too
> much power, or gust of tail wind, and it could nose over. Don't ask how I know.
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> SE Wisconsin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
> gerken(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
> I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
> > Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
> > suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you metal-urgists:
> > is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
>
JH wrote:
> Howdy Gang:
> 7075 aluminum is hardened, much harder than 6061 and 2024.
> It has been heat treated, but not as hard as a steel
> spring. Must be a reason. When was the last time you saw
> an aluminum spring on an 18 wheeler, pickup truck, Geo
> Metro??? Don't remember seeing too many aluminum springs
Everything has trade-offs. I once compared the weight of the 4130
tubes some people were using to the weight of the solid 7075 AL that are
standard on our planes. The solid AL was just a little lighter. I've
made my share of ...er, ahem, carrier landings -- gear still straight.
So, AL is still my choice although with a look toward perfection and big
money, it would be nice to design/make some streamlined composite legs.
The streamline would also serve to reduce front/back gear flex. I'll do
this about year 2007 unless I have a y2k problem so maybe 2008.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mufflers are not all created equal |
gerken(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
> If you are "scrounging" parts for a complete engine and actually get it
> running you must be smart enough to know that the exhaust volume and length
> is critical to the engine attaining the powerband it needs to match the
> torque requirements of the prop load. [snip]
Hey Jim,
I definitely know better than to claim to be smart! For the record,
according to both CPS & an experienced 2-stroke mechanic friend, the 532, 582 &
618 have virtually the same muffler/requirements when considering their volume
of air and their resonance/tuning. Thanks for the tip about CPS used parts,
their used muffler parts sell for < 50%. ---Richard S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mufflers are not all created equal |
Sorry Listers,
Don't know why my 1st response came out scrambled & missing what I wrote but
here's attempt #2:
Richard wrote:
> gerken(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
>
> > If you are "scrounging" parts for a complete engine and actually get it
> > running you must be smart enough to know that the exhaust volume and length
> > is critical to the engine attaining the powerband it needs to match the
> > torque requirements of the prop load. [snip]
>
> Hey Jim,
>
> I definitely know better than to claim to be smart! For the record,
> according to both CPS & an experienced 2-stroke mechanic friend, the 532, 582
&
> 618 have virtually the same muffler/requirements when considering their volume
> of air and their resonance/tuning. Thanks for the tip about CPS used parts,
> their used muffler parts sell for < 50%. ---Richard S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Gary and Gang,
There is one small but very important part in the break system that you
have been describing but no one has said anything about it. I found this out
the hard way as we all do from time to time. After I had about given up on
having any brakes at all on the Ferguson, I was in a bicycle shop talking to
the mechanic about this problem. He asked to take a look at the brake cable
I was using. I brought it in and he demonstrated the difference between what
I was using and what he used on his mountain bike. By rolling my cable into
several tight turns he let me pull and push the inner cable. Then he did
the same thing to one of his cables and let me pull and push. What a
difference there was. My cable would barely move but his cable worked as
though it was in a straight line. He pulled it tighter and it still was very
easy to move in and out. Guess what? He sold me on his cables. They were a
little expensive although they weren't the most expensive he had. I have
brakes now that will stand it on it's nose if I'm not careful. Remember that
I have over 500 landings and I am still using the same shoes and drums that
are like yours. Adjustments have only been done three times in 635 hours. By
the way, I landed a little hard one time and broke the axle off at the weld
and the brake cable held the whole wheel from going into the prop. I didn't
even have to change out the cable or housing although I did on that side but
I save that one for a spare. I think the Kolb brakes are fine but it
wouldn't hurt to invest in a very good quality cable. I did and I have never
regretted it. I sure hope this helps you guys. Lord knows you have helped
me.---Firehawk---
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us>
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brakes for a Firestar
>
>John
>
>Been there done that too. Looks pretty silly as a lawn dart. Oh well.
>
>I do have a problem with the drum brakes though. I know it's me and I
>just need to be put on the right path but.............. I just can't get
>the brakes adjusted so that I can push the thing and still have enough
>brake to use on my short field. I have loosened the drum and adjusted
>many many many many times but I still have the "high" spots that make the
>adjustment useless. Anyone know what I can do about the problem. Yeah,
>I know I can get new brakes but is this a problem you guy's have solved?
>I was thinkin about movein the attachment point on the heal brakes
>further from the hinge point to give me more throw. That would allow me
>to adjust the brakes so I can at least push the plane to the strip
>without gettin a heart attack. What's the fix? I too really don't want
>to spend 500 bucks for new brakes.
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>Gary
>Souderton,Pa.
>gthacker(at)mciu.org
>
> |
> ____F i r e S t a r____
> ___(+)___
> (_)
> \ /
>
>
>On Wed, 10 Mar 1999, John Jung wrote:
>
>>
>> Greg,
>>
>> I have the brakes that Kolb sells on my Firestar. After I got good
bearings
>> in my wheels and changed to drums with flanges, they work good. I
particularly
>> like the heal brake levers from Kolb. Using the Kolb brakes, I can make
landings
>> that are so short that observers are amazed. And there is little risk of
setting
>> it on it's nose.
>>
>> Also, with the Kolb heal brakes, the Firestar II can turn on a dime.
A word
>> of caution here though. There is more chance of tipping on the nose while
>> "turning on a dime" than on short landings. In order to turn on a dime,
the tail
>> wheel needs to be lightened with power while one grake is held. A little
too
>> much power, or gust of tail wind, and it could nose over. Don't ask how I
know.
>>
>> John Jung
>> Firestar II N6163J
>> SE Wisconsin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
Pardon my ignorance, I am new to this list and love it, however, is there such
a thing as heating for the Mark III? And how? Hi Steve!
Keith and Kelley Flaherty
Dallas TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III heat? |
>
> Pardon my ignorance, I am new to this list and love it, however, is there
such
> a thing as heating for the Mark III? And how? Hi Steve!
>
> Keith and Kelley Flaherty
> Dallas TX
If you have a liquid cooled engine it is very easy to put heat into the
cabin. There is a story on how to do it at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/news/heater.html
and there is also one on how to install heat on a Fan cooled 503 - on a
Challenger but the principle is the same.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mufflers are not all created equal |
>
> Sorry Listers,
> Don't know why my 1st response came out scrambled & missing what I
wrote but
> here's attempt #2:
>
> Richard wrote:
>
> > gerken(at)us.ibm.com wrote:
> >
> > > If you are "scrounging" parts for a complete engine and actually get
it
> > > running you must be smart enough to know that the exhaust volume and
length
> > > is critical to the engine attaining the powerband it needs to match
the
> > > torque requirements of the prop load. [snip]
> >
> > Hey Jim,
> >
> > I definitely know better than to claim to be smart! For the
record,
> > according to both CPS & an experienced 2-stroke mechanic friend, the
532, 582 &
> > 618 have virtually the same muffler/requirements when considering their
volume
> > of air and their resonance/tuning. Thanks for the tip about CPS used
parts,
> > their used muffler parts sell for < 50%. ---Richard S
>
>
>
> All of the Rotax engines EXCEPT the 618 use the SAME muffler. The 618 is
totally different and WIL NOT work on a 532/582. It is a totally different
concept the 618 uses a RAVE valve system, which is not found in the
532/582.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
Try calling McMaster-Carr in Los Angeles; 562-692-5911. That's where I
finally found the 3/8", 6061 T6 plate for my engine mount.
Big Lar.
----------
> From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: gear legs for mkiii
> Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 11:35 AM
>
>
> I asked Dennis at Kolb about a month ago about those tapered steel gear
> legs' availability, he said "Not yet.". Dennis; are the 7075 aluminum
legs
> heat treated after machining? I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
> Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
> suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you
metal-urgists:
> is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
>
> Anybody know where I can mail order UPS-able 7075 stock in 1 3/8"
diameter,
> for a few experiments?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
A mild concern I've had with the 7075 gear legs is the susceptibility of
that alloy to corrosion. In a marine environment it can disintegrate into
a white powder. Is there a zinc component ?? I realize that here in the
desert is hardly a marine climate, but last weekend I got to looking at my
gear legs while chasing a persistent brake fluid leak, and down near the
wheel/axle socket, there is a white coating/powder. This is after 2 yrs.
of sitting out on my porch in the weather, and yes, it does rain here once
in a while. Wire brushed it off, and there is some pitting. Is this cause
for concern ?? Has any one else noticed this ?? Big Lar.
----------
> From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: gear legs for mkiii
> Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 11:35 AM
>
>
> I asked Dennis at Kolb about a month ago about those tapered steel gear
> legs' availability, he said "Not yet.". Dennis; are the 7075 aluminum
legs
> heat treated after machining? I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
> Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
> suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you
metal-urgists:
> is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
>
> Anybody know where I can mail order UPS-able 7075 stock in 1 3/8"
diameter,
> for a few experiments?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III heat? |
Several guys have published their ideas on the list in the not too distant
past. Some sounded pretty good. One I archived myself was by Richard Pike
on Sat. Oct. 17, '98 at 3:46 PM. Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heaters. Hope
you have more luck searching the archives than I do. Some guys love 'em;
they give me fits. If you can't find that one, let me know and I'll attach
it privately to you. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Keeboman2(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III heat?
> Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 6:07 PM
>
>
> Pardon my ignorance, I am new to this list and love it, however, is there
such
> a thing as heating for the Mark III? And how? Hi Steve!
>
> Keith and Kelley Flaherty
> Dallas TX
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
writes:
<< I have loosened the drum and adjusted
many many many many times but I still have the "high" spots that make the
adjustment useless. >>
Gary,
The drums are not of the best quality and they seem to be somewhat out of
round . Also, when you assemble the drum onto the wheel rim, there is a
centering spacer. I found the spacer to be just slightly too small, which
allowed the drum to move off to one side, aggravating the already out of round
situation. To overcome that, I used some very thin stainless steel tape (JC
Whitney-body shop section) cut into pieces about 1/2" x 1/2" and then placed
at four places around the spacer (on both the inner dia. and outer dia. if
neccessary) to make it fit tighter onto the wheel rim, and tighter against the
drum, thus getting the drum centered better. It still has high spots, but
works reasonably well. At least I can move the plane easily and still have
enough braking power to hold it up to about 3500 RPM, more if I select a bump
on the ground to help stop the wheels from rolling. In fact, on one occasion
I stopped with both wheels up against a mole hill and was unable to get the
plane to move. The tail kept raising up and I was afraid it would go up on
its nose, so had to shut down, get out and move it.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "youngblood" <barry(at)hcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Suunto Watch |
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 9:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Suunto Watch
>
>Hi Group: Yesterday someone mentioned a Suunto watch/altimeter, etc.
>that they had a problem with.
In Popular Science this month is a watch by Casio with GPS. Thought some of
you might want to wait for it. Don't know the price.
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III heat? |
k an k flaherty, i've got a firestar with a 377. the idea i got for heat
was one posted by someone i can't remember on this web site. i use a 4" pvc
pipe schedule 20 cut to length and fastened to the cylinder head where the heat
comes out with one end of the pipe closed with an end cap of course. to the
other end i fastened a dryer tube and ran it to my cockpit. depending on what
kind of day it is this system can be good enough or overwhelming. flying on a
cold and cloudy day the amount of heat from the cylinder head is o.k., not hot,
just o.k. on a day when it is sunny and your flying into the sun the heat can
be stifling, you get the greenhouse effect with a total enclosure. of course
winter is when you find out that your cockpit is NOT air tight. those pesky
little air leaks pop up everywhere .............................. tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
In a message dated 3/10/99 7:15:38 PM Central Standard Time,
michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Gary and Gang,
There is one small but very important part in the break system that you
have been describing but no one has said anything about it. I found this out
the hard way as we all do from time to time. After I had about given up on
having any brakes at all on the Ferguson, I was in a bicycle shop talking to
the mechanic about this problem. He asked to take a look at the brake cable
I was using. I brought it in and he demonstrated the difference between what
I was using and what he used on his mountain bike. By rolling my cable into
several tight turns he let me pull and push the inner cable. Then he did
the same thing to one of his cables and let me pull and push. What a
difference there was. My cable would barely move but his cable worked as
though it was in a straight line. He pulled it tighter and it still was very
easy to move in and out. Guess what? He sold me on his cables. They were a
little expensive although they weren't the most expensive he had. I have
brakes now that will stand it on it's nose if I'm not careful. Remember that
I have over 500 landings and I am still using the same shoes and drums that
are like yours. Adjustments have only been done three times in 635 hours. By
the way, I landed a little hard one time and broke the axle off at the weld
and the brake cable held the whole wheel from going into the prop. I didn't
even have to change out the cable or housing although I did on that side but
I save that one for a spare. I think the Kolb brakes are fine but it
wouldn't hurt to invest in a very good quality cable. I did and I have never
regretted it. I sure hope this helps you guys. Lord knows you have helped
me.---Firehawk--- >>
I've got disc brakes on my Mk2 with 41 hours on it. I have already adjusted
all the cable I have and now I still do not have brakes. Is it the disc that
is wearing or the cables stetching that is the culprit here? Or maybe there
is somthing else I have overlooked. I am about to cut the cable just before
the swage and reswage and start again but would certainly appreciate any
suggestions before I do that. Maybe a better grade of cable is the proper fix
here. Right now i have about enough power in the brakes to only stop the
wheels from turning after I break ground.
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
>
>I asked Dennis at Kolb about a month ago about those tapered steel gear
>legs' availability, he said "Not yet.". Dennis; are the 7075 aluminum legs
>heat treated after machining? I have read that 7075 can be heat treated.
>Would this make them stiffer, but maybe they'd become too brittle? I
>suppose you've already explored this avenue, right? For you metal-urgists:
>is there any "adjustability" to the heat treat process?
>
>Anybody know where I can mail order UPS-able 7075 stock in 1 3/8" diameter,
>for a few experiments?
>
Jim,
>The 7075 landing gear that Kolb uses is already heat treated. I would not
recommend attempting to heat it, you will probably make it softer.
Dennis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Group,
One more thing that I did to get my Kolb brakes to work good: I changed to
the
highest quality brake cables. They have plastic liners so that they have less
friction. This does help. Also, I added an extra spring so that they are less
likely to hang up. And even though I said it before, it is worth repeating: I
changed to the drums with flanges. I could not get the drums without flanges to
work
well at all.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
If you are flying on a 582 Rotax and have noticed a hot spot when you back
down on power, or while cruising in the 5200 to 5800 rpm range - try using a
274 needle jet rather than your current 272. This puts a little more fuel
into the engine JUST at this rpm range - thus cooling the engine.
If your engine is running a little rough at idle try using a 45 low speed
jet, rather than your stock 55, idle your engine at 2200 rather than the
2,000.
This has also been reported to work on a rough idling 503 DCDI- BUT I have
not tried it yet.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
>
>A mild concern I've had with the 7075 gear legs is the susceptibility of
>that alloy to corrosion. In a marine environment it can disintegrate into
>a white powder. .
grandchildren will be on pension.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Is it the disc that
>is wearing or the cables stetching that is the culprit here? Or maybe there
>is somthing else I have overlooked. I am about to cut the cable just before
>the swage and reswage and start again but would certainly appreciate any
>suggestions before I do that.
Observe your cable sheath as you apply the brakes. Does the outer sheath
seem to move? You could be losing some of your cable travel in the sheath.
Clamp the sheath down as often as possible to eliminate any loss from there.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar#2 |
Steve, Mr.. Wood is right. Check your cable housing for compression. But
even if you do tie it down it will still compress to some extent. Then check
to see if it has a liner inside. Teflon is the best liner. I oil the cable
with a light oil before I install them in the housing. This makes them extra
slick. You will have to start with a good quality cable. I can't say much
about your disk brakes, I can't seem to see them from here. Even if you find
that the better cable has not solved your problem it is what you will have
to have on any mechanical brake. I never had any good luck with the
mechanical disk brakes other than to just slow me down a little. I fly from
930' strip with trees at both ends and on one side. There is only about 700'
that is usable for landing I needed a dependable brake. Must STOP
here --EERRRKK.Firehawk
----Original Message-----
From: N51SK(at)aol.com <N51SK(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brakes for a Firestar
>
>In a message dated 3/10/99 7:15:38 PM Central Standard Time,
>michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><< Gary and Gang,
> There is one small but very important part in the break system that you
> have been describing but no one has said anything about it. I found this
out
> the hard way as we all do from time to time. After I had about given up on
> having any brakes at all on the Ferguson, I was in a bicycle shop talking
to
> the mechanic about this problem. He asked to take a look at the brake
cable
> I was using. I brought it in and he demonstrated the difference between
what
> I was using and what he used on his mountain bike. By rolling my cable
into
> several tight turns he let me pull and push the inner cable. Then he did
> the same thing to one of his cables and let me pull and push. What a
> difference there was. My cable would barely move but his cable worked as
> though it was in a straight line. He pulled it tighter and it still was
very
> easy to move in and out. Guess what? He sold me on his cables. They were a
> little expensive although they weren't the most expensive he had. I have
> brakes now that will stand it on it's nose if I'm not careful. Remember
that
> I have over 500 landings and I am still using the same shoes and drums
that
> are like yours. Adjustments have only been done three times in 635 hours.
By
> the way, I landed a little hard one time and broke the axle off at the
weld
> and the brake cable held the whole wheel from going into the prop. I
didn't
> even have to change out the cable or housing although I did on that side
but
> I save that one for a spare. I think the Kolb brakes are fine but it
> wouldn't hurt to invest in a very good quality cable. I did and I have
never
> regretted it. I sure hope this helps you guys. Lord knows you have helped
> me.---Firehawk--- >>
>I've got disc brakes on my Mk2 with 41 hours on it. I have already
adjusted
>all the cable I have and now I still do not have brakes. Is it the disc
that
>is wearing or the cables stetching that is the culprit here? Or maybe
there
>is somthing else I have overlooked. I am about to cut the cable just
before
>the swage and reswage and start again but would certainly appreciate any
>suggestions before I do that. Maybe a better grade of cable is the proper
fix
>here. Right now i have about enough power in the brakes to only stop the
>wheels from turning after I break ground.
>Steve Kroll Mk2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mick Fine <froghair(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Policemen |
>
>....Still doesn't help me find stuff in the archives, though. e.g.
>- the 3/16 bolt thing from yesterday. ....
Hey Lar,
I hate to say it but, I just found a small "inconvenience" in Matt's
otherwise great archive search engine:
It defaults to the RV list after each search entry.
I didn't have any trouble finding the thread about number size screws but
you must change the 'pull-down' menu to search in the Kolb list before each
attempt.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
The brake drums on my Mark lll gave me fits during assembly. They were
obviously going to have high spots. I put them on my lathe and turned the
interior of the drum smooth. They were significantly out of round and the
brake contact suface was very uneven. When I mounted them I had to use various
thickness washers to correct the runout. In the end they were adequate and I
had no further trouble.
I now know they would have been even better if had used teflon-lined cables.
On Firehawk's advice I used them on my homemade brakes for the FireFly and
they were a great improvement.
Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Suunto Watch |
I checked with my hang gliding instructor,
>and it's the same one he's just started using and selling. He thinks it's
>real good, except for the compass function only lasting for 11 (?) seconds.
> It switches modes then, and has to be re-set into compass mode
I got my replacement today and it works great. I guess that the time limmit
on the compass is to save battery charge, my lasts around 45 seconds before
going off. It is very accurate. I walked up and down the stairs in my
house and register the 8 feet differance! My rate of climbing stairs is
very low. If it holds up and works well when flying it should be worth the
cost. compass, altimeter, roc, altitude alarms, barometer, thermometer, and
oh yah the time for $200.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Xwind landing technique |
Ben,
Why would you fly this pattern for? Second, it is not a standard pattern
thus are you not training yourself for conditions you would not be able to
compensate for later when you need to fly a conventional pattern. (I know
you have a lot of flight time but for newer pilots this could be a factor)
Jerry B
>
>> >"well, why aren't you then just flying both the crosswind leg and the
>> >base leg into the wind?" (this results in a figure 8 pattern for T&Gs).
>> >Nobody else flies at this strip so there was absolutely no reason not to.
>> >-Ben Ransom
>
>On Tue, 9 Mar 1999, Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
>> I think I followed this but am not sure...
>> Say it is a north south runway with a west wind.
>> are you saying you flew over the middle of the runway on "downwind" flying
>> southeast, making it a real downwind to some (45) degree, and flew your
>> base and crosswind both west and landed to the north?
>
> Yes. -Ben Ransom
>
> <---
> \ |
> \
> \ |
> \| ---wind--->
> \
> |\
> | \
> | \
>
\
> | \
> | <---
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
John on the right track here with the bearing. We put better bearings in
ours wheels (<$5 bearing) and it made a world of difference. I would
suggest this as a first step. I wonder how John knows it "will" (not
could) nose over.
Jerry
FireFly
>
>Greg,
>
> I have the brakes that Kolb sells on my Firestar. After I got good
bearings
>in my wheels and changed to drums with flanges, they work good. I
particularly
>like the heal brake levers from Kolb. Using the Kolb brakes, I can make
landings
>that are so short that observers are amazed. And there is little risk of
setting
>it on it's nose.
>
> Also, with the Kolb heal brakes, the Firestar II can turn on a dime. A
word
>of caution here though. There is more chance of tipping on the nose while
>"turning on a dime" than on short landings. In order to turn on a dime,
the tail
>wheel needs to be lightened with power while one grake is held. A little too
>much power, or gust of tail wind, and it could nose over. Don't ask how I
know.
>
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J
>SE Wisconsin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Ben,
Your probably right and may be seeing some fore/aft movement of the gear
legs as the wheel grabs and slips. But you might also be experiencing
chatter from play in those cheap wheel bearings. If you haven't upgraded
your bearings I would recommend you do it. Here the better bearing cost
about $4-4.50 per bearing. You need 4. It also made our brakes work much
better. We could tighten the brakes up more since the no longer grabbed
and have more braking power.
Blue skys,
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
>>
>>Anybody know where I can mail order UPS-able 7075 stock in 1 3/8" diameter,
>>for a few experiments?
>>
>Jim,
>
Up here in Canada we have a franchise called Metal Supermarket. I have
bought a slab of 7075 (which is not an uncommon grade) 1.5 x8 x24 for about
$175 Can.
(about $19.95 US) I needed it for landing gear on my Arrowplane project.
Check the yellow pages there should be something similar in most cities
where you can purchase alloys.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | The boss wont give me time off... |
Sun & Fun is just about 1 month away .... and closing FAST.
If you have never attended a gathering such as this one, consider the
following:
Its located in FLORIDA!! Maybe you forgot that this is one of America's
most famous playgrounds -- warm weather and sunshine during the time of year
when most of us are cold and rainy.
Its a HUGE airshow... slightly smaller than Osh Kosh... but not by much.
Maybe you forgot that one of your life's loves is aircraft-- and there are
going to be a LOT of them there....
The ultralight area is the biggest and busiest as any in the world -- MORE
so than Osh Kosh -- and the landing strip is MUCH more active and less
restrictive than that of even Osh Kosh.... What a way to see more models,
makes, vendors and PLANES in the air and on the ground. KOLB has a pretty
impressive booth and display-- along with its head honchos.... remember
KOLB??? You say you wanted to talk directly with THE MAN who has all of
your building and flying answers?? I imagine someone at the booth can help
you...
The largest collection of KOLBS, along with their pilots can probably be
found at no other place in the world than at this show that week. How may
opportunities are there gonna be like this?? Vendors?? From props to
engines to brakes and parts and bolts in fractional and number sizes.....
where else you gonna see LEAF and CPS and Spruce all together and ready to
sell you those hard to get parts??
How many opportunities are there gonna be to meet the members of THIS list
in person?? To exchange stories of horror and the grandeur of kit building.
Ever wondered what so and so looks like on the other end of your keyboard??
He'll be there! Or if YOU dont show, there is no guarantee that you wont be
talked about... I cant control that!
Vacation excuses?? Lakeland is like an hour from Disneyworld, Universal
joint Hollywood, AND 2 hours or less from either the Gulf of Mex and the
Atlantic Ocean, including Cape Kennedy and Epcot, etc. Your gonna take a
vacation anyway, right? The best air tickets are made about a month in
advance... so call your travel agent NOW. How about PRICELINE.COM ??
I am going to be driving from Green Bay, Wi area... my 3rd year! (Ill buy
lunch for anyone from this list that will be driving further than me!) Less
you think Im on some committee or am getting some form of stipend from
plugging this... guess again... I have no commercial connections of any
kind. I just know its a doggone shame when I show up at the Kolb booth and
ask if so and so ever made it by... and the answer is no... feeling they
arent really serious about their KOLB or flying/building
xperiences.....( Or, how do you find 500 hours and $15,000 to build a plane
but cant spare a couple days for the mecca of air shows???)
But seriously, folks, if you have never been to Sun& Fun... you dont know
what you're missing... its no Osh Kosh -- its BETTER-- ask anyone who has
been themselves. Lets make this year the BIGGEST attendance of KOLB
builders/flyers ever--- with a perfect attendance from THIS LIST. What will
be your excuse for not showing?? You know the rest of the family will be
thrilled when you drop them off at EPCOT so you can have a day or 2 to
yourself with the planes.....
Who is with me?? Who else will stand up right now and shout: I'm GOING!!!!
See you there.
Jon
near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The boss wont give me time off... |
In a message dated 3/12/99 8:46:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, joncroke(at)itol.com
writes:
<< Who is with me?? Who else will stand up right now and shout: I'm GOING!!!!
See you there.
Jon >>
I'm GOING!!!......you talked me into it.....teasin...takin my boy for a first
time father son wanna do together thing...all right so he's 29 and I'm a
little late...but finally got there...we'll only be there Thur. Fri and Sat.
but will spend time at the Kolb tent to meet some of you..........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sun 'n Fun plans |
I'll be there ! Maybe we can get a message board set up for Kolbers to see
who's there and when. I am planning to park my FireFly trailer in the UL area
and use it for a dorm. Will probably get there Thurs the 8th, pm.
See you at S'nF, Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL ( ~250 miles N.W. of Lakeland
)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Airfilter cleaning tips |
K & N Air Filter Service Instructions
Tap the element to dislodge any large embedded dirt, then gently brush it a
soft bristle brush.
Spray K & N Air filter cleaner liberally onto the entire element and let
filter soak for about 10 minutes.
Rinse off the element with low pressure water. Tap water is OK. Always flush
from the clean side to the dirty side. This removes the dirt and does not
drive it into the filter.
Caution:
Use only K & N air filter cleaner!
Do Not use gasoline!
Do Not steam clean!
Do Not use caustic leaning solutions!
Do Not use strong detergents!
Do Not use high pressure car wash!
Do Not use parts cleaning solvents!
The use of any of the above can cause harm to the COTTON filter media,
plus shrink and harden the rubber end caps.
Always dry naturally. After rinsing , shake off all excess water and let the
element dry naturally.
Caution:
Do Not use compressed air
Do Not use open flame
Do Not use heat dryers
Excess heat will shrink the cotton filter media. While compressed air will
blow holes in the element.
After cleaning air filter always re-oil before using. If using K&N aerosol -
spray oil down into each pleat with one pass per pleat. WAIT 10 minutes and
reoil any white spots still showing.
If using K&N squeeze bottle - squeeze K&N air filter oil down into the
bottom and along each pleat - only one pass per pleat. Let oil wick into
cotton for 20 minutes. Re-oil any white spots still showing.
Reinstall your K&N airfilter element. Make sure that clamp is tight and
airfilter is safety wired.
Caution:
Never use a K&N air filter without oil. (The filter will not stop the dirt
without the oil.) Use only K&N formulated air filter oil.
K&N air filter oil is a compound of mineral and animal oil blended with
special polymers to form a very efficient tack barrier. Red dye is added to
show just where you have applied the oil. Eventually the red color will fade
but the oil will remain and will filter the air.
Never Use automatic transmission fluid!
Never Use motor oil!
Never Use diesel fuel!
Never Use WD-40, LPS, or other light weight oils!
Performance Hints
Service airfilter every 6 months or 50 hours of airtime - more frequently in
dirty conditions.
Attention:
The K&N airfilter designed for AIRCRAFT applications has a tab on it that
allows the filter(s) to be safety wired to the carburetor.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
> >
> >
> > Buzz boxes don't stop buzzing. They change pitch as the points start
to
Just so people don't think I haven't done this before. The buzz box that I
use which has a lead for each cylinder and a ground coming off of it, has
two distinct buzzes, one for each cylinder, and when at .086 thou before top
dead center on a 503 Rotax, it STOPS buzzing.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear legs for mkiii |
>A mild concern I've had with the 7075 gear legs is the susceptibility of
>that alloy to corrosion. In a marine environment it can disintegrate into
>a white powder. Is there a zinc component ?? I realize that here in the
>desert is hardly a marine climate, but last weekend I got to looking at my
>gear legs while chasing a persistent brake fluid leak, and down near the
>wheel/axle socket, there is a white coating/powder. This is after 2 yrs.
>of sitting out on my porch in the weather, and yes, it does rain here once
>in a while. Wire brushed it off, and there is some pitting. Is this cause
>for concern ?? Has any one else noticed this ?? Big Lar.
>
Could it be electrolytic corrosion (electrolyses) with the steal axle
socket at the ends? It would make sense if water got into the joint with
the axle socket.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The boss wont give me time off... |
kolbers
Count me in, I've been there every year since 92.
Maybe we should neet at the Kolb tent at a designated
time.
Howard FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The boss wont give me time off... |
Jon Croke wrote:
> Its located in FLORIDA!! - - - - - -
>
> Who is with me?? Who else will stand up right now and shout: I'm
> GOING!!!!
>
> See you there.
>
Hey Jon, What do you do if "you" are the boss-man?????
It would cost me roughly **** dollars per day to close my offices. (Yes
I have more than one practice) I would like to have a face-off with a
couple of people on this list, and shake the hand of others on this
list.
What I'm trying to say is: I don't want to be an outsider for not
showing up at this sun & fun thing, but I just can't be there now.
Please share your enjoyment with people like me after your return, would
you?
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
| Subject: | The boss wont give me time off... |
I will be there Sat. through Tue. My first time, can't wait. I will certainly
stop @ Kolb display more than once. Looking forward to meeting some of you guys.
-----Original Message-----
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com@inetgw2
Sent: Friday, March 12, 1999 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The boss wont give me time off...
In a message dated 3/12/99 8:46:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, joncroke(at)itol.com
writes:
<< Who is with me?? Who else will stand up right now and shout: I'm GOING!!!!
See you there.
Jon >>
I'm GOING!!!......you talked me into it.....teasin...takin my boy for a first
time father son wanna do together thing...all right so he's 29 and I'm a
little late...but finally got there...we'll only be there Thur. Fri and Sat.
but will spend time at the Kolb tent to meet some of you..........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n Fun plans |
Hey Duane, Is this your first time going to S-N-F with a plane? If it is
you're in for a real surprise. The last time I took my plane the Orange
shirts treated me and my wingman like we were there just to cause trouble or
something. Every time we ran into one they would start yelling and jumping
up and down like we had stolen their Orange hats. They told us at first we
couldn't tie down on the flight line. Other people started tying down and it
was OK. Then they said we couldn't stay with our planes at night after a
certain hour. Others started putting up tents and all of a sudden it was OK.
Then a 300 LB. woman sat down on my tail boom and I couldn't get to my plane
fast enough to tell her to get off, one of the Orange shirts asked what was
my big hurry while another was standing right by my plane didn't do or say a
thing to her. At this point I was looking for Dave Piper to give him a piece
of my mind before I left. He said he couldn't do a thing about the Orange
shirts or the rules in the Ultralight area so long as they were making them
up as they go along. I did not go last year just to protest the way we were
treated. I heard that not much had changed. If I go this year I will not
stay at the field. I still don't think the organizers know who is paying the
bills. Take a look while you are down there and see if you agree. Who is it
that get all the perks, the vendors or the paying customer / visitor? I'll
be glad when we Ultralighters can have our own air show without the "Big
Boys taking all the Fun out of "Sun-N Fun". Whinning down in
PCB---Firehawk---
-----Original Message-----
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, March 12, 1999 9:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sun 'n Fun plans
>
>I'll be there ! Maybe we can get a message board set up for Kolbers to see
>who's there and when. I am planning to park my FireFly trailer in the UL
area
>and use it for a dorm. Will probably get there Thurs the 8th, pm.
>
>See you at S'nF, Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL ( ~250 miles N.W. of
Lakeland
>)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Xwind landing technique |
On Thu, 11 Mar 1999, Jerry Bidle wrote:
> Why would you fly this pattern for? Second, it is not a standard pattern
Maybe the reason got lost since my original post. On base leg as you get
closer to MotherEarth is not an ideal time to have wind speed added to
your airspeed. If anything unexpected required you to land short while
on base you don't want to be making that a high ground-speed landing cuz
it isn't likely to be the comfy runway. Furthermore, if you were making a
base to final turn with a base leg tailwind, there might be some tendency
to use the ground as a speed reference and get slower than safe airspeed.
> thus are you not training yourself for conditions you would not be able to
> compensate for later when you need to fly a conventional pattern. (I know
> you have a lot of flight time but for newer pilots this could be a factor)
Yes, I spose this is reasonable thinking too. One should be accustomed
to what it feels like flying a base leg with a tailwind, and recognize
that the airspeed is not anywhere near the groundspeed.
If given a choice in my flying out in the sticks (off field), if it
has to be a Xwind I will choose the safer pattern method -- figure 8
with crosswind and/or base legs into the wind. That i spose is what
I think is the main lesson here.
> >
> > Yes. -Ben Ransom
> >
> > <---
> > \ |
> > \
> > \ |
> > \| ---wind--->
> > \
> > |\
> > | \
> > | \
> >
\
> > | \
> > | <---
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
On Thu, 11 Mar 1999, Jerry Bidle wrote:
> Your probably right and may be seeing some fore/aft movement of the gear
> legs as the wheel grabs and slips. But you might also be experiencing
> chatter from play in those cheap wheel bearings. If you haven't upgraded
nope, can't blame my bearings ....moved to the good sealed bearings at
about 15 TTSN. Agreed, they are the only way to travel.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar bearings |
Hi Gang,
I know the archives have tons of information about wheel bearings but I
think this is new.
I called Kolb on Monday to order spare wheel bearings
so I have them on hand when I need them. Mike in PARTS told me that they
were out of stock, and gave me this number 499502H (a better bearing) to
purchase locally.
I went to a parts store that I have found to be right in the ballpark for
prices on other items, and ordered four bearings @ $14.50 each. 4 X
$14.50=$58.00 plus $3.50 S&H !!Since I always try to go first class in
everything I do to the Firestar, and since this was the recomendation from
Mike I ordered them.
Now I read about you guys buying wheel bearings for four bucks. I hope
to
H E double hockey sticks we are talking about a different grade of wheel
bearing.
Lanny ( waiting for the weathre to break in Pa.) Fetterman F.S. #598)
A.S.C. # A10LRF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n Fun plans |
I know what Mike Highsmith is talking about when he says that some of the
folks at Lakeland act like they are the omnipotent. I have had trouble with
the rent-a-cops on several occasions. These are people of invincible
ignorance. I can put up with it for a few days considering the otherwise great
experience. And it is a truly great show, better than Oshkosh for UL types.
By the way I am not planning to take the FireFly. The trailer will be for
sleeping etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
At 08:07 AM 12/03/99 it, has
>two distinct buzzes, one for each cylinder, and when at .086 thou before top
>dead center on a 503 Rotax, it STOPS buzzing.
>
>Dave Loveman
Bet you spent more than $5 for that bit of high technology. ;)
The pitch changes are quite noticable to even stone deaf Rotaxspinners.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar bearings |
> four bearings @ $14.50 each. 4 X
> $14.50=$58.00 plus $3.50 S&H !!
Way too much. They better be Class 1 bearings and/or gold plated.
These are:
499502H X 6202 2RS X 5/8" BORE 1.375 O.D. w/ Snap ring on O.D.
Which is just a plain old 6202RS bearing with groove. Go to:
http://www.arrowweb.com/bake/spcl.htm
for a shock on price. Sorry 'bout that. Could have looked all this up
online.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mk lll alighting gear |
Any homebuilt gear out there for a Kolb Mk lll? Need either a servicable,
used 4130 gear leg from a scrapped Mk lll or suggestions, drawings or plans
to build a set.
Don't expect to find scrapped Kolbs, but you never know till you ask.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruce steinhagen <bsteinhagen(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | FS-2 gap seal kit for sale |
Thought I needed for BRS installation,. instead I modified lexan seal
to work. The company sells the kit for approx $40. Make an offer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | New 4-Stroke intro at S&F |
Not sure if your aware of a company called Amtech. They were at Sun & Fun
97 and introduced a new concept engine they were developing for the UL
market. Their initial target was 40 HP drive drive at like 2900 RPM
weighting 69# with a price less than $5K. I understand they are supposed
to be exhibiting at Sun & Fun and have an engine there flying. This is one
thought had some potential. Can't wait to see it! Only thing I heard that
the price may have been raised the price tag. I hope not.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n Fun plans |
Darn, I thought I would get me a trailer with a FireFly in it. Foiled by
plans.
>
>I know what Mike Highsmith is talking about when he says that some of the
>folks at Lakeland act like they are the omnipotent. I have had trouble with
>the rent-a-cops on several occasions. These are people of invincible
>ignorance. I can put up with it for a few days considering the otherwise
great
>experience. And it is a truly great show, better than Oshkosh for UL types.
>
>By the way I am not planning to take the FireFly. The trailer will be for
>sleeping etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar bearings |
We got our bearings through a local bearing supply store. They sell
retail. Ours cost less $5. The Japan made, are a little different in that
they don't have the flange like the original bearing but instead have a
outer ring which functions like the flange. I don't thing they sit quite
as deep as the originals did but they work fine. If you need some let me
know I get them and send them to you. We have been much happier with our
brakes since changing them.
Jerry & Gary
FireFly
>
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> I know the archives have tons of information about wheel bearings
but I
>think this is new.
> I called Kolb on Monday to order spare wheel bearings
>so I have them on hand when I need them. Mike in PARTS told me that they
>were out of stock, and gave me this number 499502H (a better bearing) to
>purchase locally.
> I went to a parts store that I have found to be right in the
ballpark for
>prices on other items, and ordered four bearings @ $14.50 each. 4 X
>$14.50=$58.00 plus $3.50 S&H !!Since I always try to go first class in
>everything I do to the Firestar, and since this was the recomendation from
>Mike I ordered them.
> Now I read about you guys buying wheel bearings for four bucks. I
hope to
>H E double hockey sticks we are talking about a different grade of wheel
>bearing.
> Lanny ( waiting for the weathre to break in Pa.) Fetterman F.S. #598)
>A.S.C. # A10LRF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
On the FireFly, Dennis had told us the reason for the extension was to
extend the prop further back into cleaner air as it improved performance.
I know the IVO's do flex quite a bit, so use the extension. If you didn't
get one with your engine/prop (like we did) call the factory and question
if is recommended to use one for you model. When I called about it, I had
to ask the question a couple different ways to clarify if it were required
versus recommended, and that I should have received one with our prop.
Jerry
>
>Dave, the Original FireStars do NOT need the extension for the IVO prop.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar, 447 powered with 2-blade IVO
>
>
>>If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you USE
>>an
>>extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike the
>>wing,
>>if the spacer is not used.
>>
>>Dave Loveman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Jerry,
On the newer FireStars the extension is needed for allow for flexing of
the prop. I'm not sure that moving the prop with an extension 1/2 to 3/4
inch back would actually improve the performance, unless you are talking
about a much longer extension.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>On the FireFly, Dennis had told us the reason for the extension was to
>extend the prop further back into cleaner air as it improved
>performance.
>I know the IVO's do flex quite a bit, so use the extension. If you
>didn't
>get one with your engine/prop (like we did) call the factory and
>question
>if is recommended to use one for you model. When I called about it, I
>had
>to ask the question a couple different ways to clarify if it were
>required
>versus recommended, and that I should have received one with our prop.
>
>Jerry
>
>
>
>>
>>Dave, the Original FireStars do NOT need the extension for the IVO
>prop.
>>
>>Ralph Burlingame
>>Original FireStar, 447 powered with 2-blade IVO
>>
>>
>>>If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you
>USE
>>>an
>>>extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike
>the
>>>wing,
>>>if the spacer is not used.
>>>
>>>Dave Loveman
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: float rigging on the Mk III |
>
Are your floats NEW - do they have the lastest update - if not it is free
from Full Lotus.
I also wonder about where to put my loaded aircraft cg
> point onto the floats. Center of gravity to the center of floation ?
Full Lotus has the spec's for mounting on your plane, if you can't get it
let me know. The "generic" point is the rear point is 6 inches behind the
step.
I
> also bought the sacs bags and plates. Has anyone used these yet?
. With a 582 and 69" warp 3 blade, any advice on a degree
> setting for the prop?
What ratio of drive are you using with that length, a C drive has to be
used.
For best performance on floats a two blade Warp works the best.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New 4-Stroke intro at S&F |
>
> Not sure if your aware of a company called Amtech. They were at Sun &
Fun
> 97 and introduced a new concept engine they were developing for the UL
> market. Their initial target was 40 HP drive drive at like 2900 RPM
> weighting 69# with a price less than $5K. I understand they are supposed
> to be exhibiting at Sun & Fun and have an engine there flying. This is
one
> thought had some potential. Can't wait to see it! Only thing I heard
that
> the price may have been raised the price tag. I hope not.
>
> Jerry
Neat little engine design, features opposed cylinders with a crankcase that
is about an 1 inch in width, the rods move inside the crankshaft. When I
interviewed them, they were redesigning the heads, and cylinders to get the
weight down-they were closer to 90 lbs as displayed.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Take the drums to a machine shop and have them turned so they are round.Turn
the outside for band brakes or the inside for drum brakes...Thats usually the
problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: New 4-Stroke intro at S&F |
On Sun, 14 Mar 1999, Jerry Bidle wrote:
> Not sure if your aware of a company called Amtech. They were at Sun & Fun
I've talked to the people at Amtech a few times in the last 18 months
to see how they're doing. They seem like an honest straightforward
group and a fairly strong company. This engine, which they've called the
"Buddy Twin" is a really exciting concept for which they applied for and
received a patent last summer. It uses narrow but very big diameter main
crank journals. When I talked to them last summer they said they had
met their weight goal (69 lbs), and still achieving 40 lbs. If it can
prove reliable, that is obviously a huge huge step for 4 stroke power.
I believe they were test flying it on a TeamAirbike as well as trying to
gain some hours on a test stand. A year ago they told me they didn't
want to show up at any more airshows (such as SnF) unless they had an
engine ready to market. I personally have been both ways on whether to
try to scratch up $5k. $5k makes you consider how reliable a 2-stroke
really can be. However, a Kolb FS with a reliable 4-stroke 40hp weighing
less than a 447 -- that would be some cadillac of an airplane!
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New 4-Stroke intro at S&F |
Loveman David wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> > Not sure if your aware of a company called Amtech. They were at Sun &
> Fun
> > 97 and introduced a new concept engine they were developing for the UL
> > market. Their initial target was 40 HP drive drive at like 2900 RPM
> > weighting 69# with a price less than $5K. I understand they are supposed
> > to be exhibiting at Sun & Fun and have an engine there flying. This is
> one
> > thought had some potential. Can't wait to see it! Only thing I heard
> that
> > the price may have been raised the price tag. I hope not.
> >
> > Jerry
>
> Neat little engine design, features opposed cylinders with a crankcase that
> is about an 1 inch in width, the rods move inside the crankshaft. When I
> interviewed them, they were redesigning the heads, and cylinders to get the
> weight down-they were closer to 90 lbs as displayed.
>
Where can we learn more about this engine?
ww
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ajvann" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal Flying?? |
Jim Pratt owns this web site and is very knowledgeable about home built
aircraft regulations. Below is his web page and a question I asked him. I
'm sending it to the list for your information only.
http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/faqhmblt.htm
My friends asked me to ask you this question :
>
> What carries the most severe penalty or fine -- Flying a n-numbered
aircraft
> (home-built) without a pilots license or flying an unregistered aircraft
> (known as a Fat Ultralight) without a pilots license?
UhHmmmmmmmm...(cough cough)
Uh Hmmmmmm (cough cough cough)
I cannot answer that question.
Congratulations. In 29,000 web site visits and about 150 questions you
hove posed the first question which, upon correctly answering, is the
first time I have been asked which rule can be broken.
Both end up being possibly the same violation, which is operating an
aircraft without a pilot license (14 CFR part 61.3). There is no such
thing as a fat ultralight.
"Sec. 61.3 Requirement for certificates, ratings, and authorizations.
(a) Pilot certificate. A person may not act as pilot flight crewmember
in command or in any other capacity as a required pilot of a civil
aircraft of U.S. registry, unless that person has a valid pilot
certificate or special purpose pilot authorization issued under this
part in that person's physical possession or readily accessible in the
aircraft when exercising the privileges of that pilot certificate or
authorization. "
If you want to know the civil penalty, I suggest you review two other
documents. FAA Order 2150.3, (Compliance and enforcement), and the
Federal Aviaiton Act. Both may be availabel on=line, but I'm not sure
where.
You can also pose your question to an attorney. Click on this:
http://www1.drive.net/evird.acgi$pass*13882338!_h-www.landings.com/_landings
/Forums/al/al-faa-lic.html
for an interesting place to visit.
And, don't do it. Fines, court orders, or even jail time is possible.
Thnaks (i think) for the question.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS-2 gap seal kit for sale |
Hi Bruce,
I'll pay the 40.00 for the seal if you're interested. E-mail me at
rstan50(at)aol.com.
thanks,
bob stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: float rigging on the Mk III |
Dell, I have a Warp 3 blade taper tip, 68' Dia.. I have it set for 14 1/2
degrees at the tips. This gives me 6500 RPM from the 503 DCDI on climbout,
WOT. I agree with Loveman that you should have a C Box especially with a long
3 blade prop. My ratio is 3.47-1. I don't agree that you should use a 2
blade ; I believe a slow turning 3 blade is just the ticket for the extra
power you'll need to get off the water.
If your prop has taper tips I'll bet 14 1/2 will be real close; If you don't
have them then you'll probably need maybe 13.
I've had to adjust mine about 7 times to get what I want.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar bearings |
>
>We got our bearings through a local bearing supply store. They sell
>retail. Ours cost less $5. The Japan made, are a little different in that
>they don't have the flange like the original bearing but instead have a
>outer ring which functions like the flange.
Beware of Japanese bearings. In my proffessional experience they do not
hold up as well as other makes. You usually get what you pay for.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The boss wont give me time off... |
Hi Jon;
How is your plane coming? I still want to do a cross-country down to
your place when the weather gets better. We still have three feet of snow on
the ground, be it is starting to melt pretty good. I hope those storms keep
going south. I am thinking about going to S/F myself. Are you going by your
self or with the family? Maybe we could get together for the trip. I am
going to upgrade to a 447 this spring. I got the motor in January but haven't
had time to mount it yet. Talk to you later.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Czyrny <czyrny(at)acsu.buffalo.edu> |
| Subject: | Kawasaki 440 engine |
Listers:
I have been looking at some alternatives to the Rotax engine. I have
gotten some input on the Kawasaki 440 engine. Some people swear it to
be better than the Rotax 447. Parts are readily available, and cheaper
than Rotax. There is apparently a 440A and 440B. The B is supposed to
have more horsepower but not be as good at lower rpms. Do any of you
have any experience with the Kawasaki 440A or B pro or con??
Thanks,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
| Subject: | New guy on the block! |
Hello All!
I'm Roger, and I have owned 2 Kolb Ultrastars, and still have one. I
picked up this last kit completed but unfinished. I had to finish doping
the wings and tail feathers. I re-engineered the cage, by reinforcing
all the critical welds and then extended the front tubing and skid bar
to hold the firestar nose pod. Then I added the instruments, CHT, EGT,
TACH, ALT., ASI, WET COMPASS, HOBBS, AND CLOCK. Because of this, I put
the tanks almost under the new seat, and four point harness, which is
also back and down about 6 inches each way to fix the CG with the pod,
and instruments. A short windshield and custom 50X34 prop, and I have a
machine that cruises at 65-70mph (checked with GPS) at about 5500rpm.
CHT and EGT indicate that full power for several minutes are to much
with the heavy prop. But, back it off, to the 5500 and it flys 45
minutes with 10 minutes of reserve at that speed. I have carried 4 extra
gals. of fuel bungeed to the struts. With me at 175, that's all she'll
carry, that I feel comfortable with. (also, at cruise, its hands off
flying!) If I were to trim it at all, it would be a rudder tab. It's
hard to tell if I was crabbing in the wind, but it's not always the same
all the time, so I do think it's wind more than trim. Hope this mail
complies with the rules. New User Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Segarcts(at)aol.com |
Would like to subscribe to news letter
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes for a Firestar |
Great. thats the way they should be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop settings |
To all,
Actually the main reason Kolb recommends the prop extension on the
FireFly is for reducing the prop noise. We have found that the noise levels
increase rapidly as the prop gets moved closer to the trailing edge of the
wing. It would almost logically follow that if moving the prop further from
the wing reduces the noise levels, then less power would be wasted in noise
generation and more left over for propulsion. However, I doubt the
difference would be noticeable.
Ralph is correct: the original FireStars do not need the extension
with the IVO prop. The FireStar KX series does not need the spacer either.
With the advent of the newer FireStar I & II series), the engine was moved
forward on the frame and this reduced the prop/trailing edge clearance for
the propeller. If you are using a typical wood prop or a Warp prop, for
instance, you do not need a spacer because those particular propellers are
relatively stiff compared to an IVO. While the blades will not strike the
trailing edge, it will generate more noise. If you wish to use an IVO on
the FireStar I & II series, you will need to use the spacer.
I like to use the spacer with the IVO's even if it is not needed for
clearance purposes - simply because it does reduce the noise.
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
>
>On the FireFly, Dennis had told us the reason for the extension was to
>extend the prop further back into cleaner air as it improved performance.
>I know the IVO's do flex quite a bit, so use the extension. If you didn't
>get one with your engine/prop (like we did) call the factory and question
>if is recommended to use one for you model. When I called about it, I had
>to ask the question a couple different ways to clarify if it were required
>versus recommended, and that I should have received one with our prop.
>
>Jerry
>
>
>>
>>Dave, the Original FireStars do NOT need the extension for the IVO prop.
>>
>>Ralph Burlingame
>>Original FireStar, 447 powered with 2-blade IVO
>>
>>
>>>If anyone is using an IVOPROP on a Kolb it is recommended that you USE
>>>an
>>>extension to move the prop back. The prop flexes and COULD strike the
>>>wing,
>>>if the spacer is not used.
>>>
>>>Dave Loveman
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar bearings |
Japan or China.
Ours Japan made ones are holding up fine. There many grade levels better
than the bearings they replaced. Well worth the <$5 we paid for them.
Jerry
>
>>
>>We got our bearings through a local bearing supply store. They sell
>>retail. Ours cost less $5. The Japan made, are a little different in that
>>they don't have the flange like the original bearing but instead have a
>>outer ring which functions like the flange.
>
>
> Beware of Japanese bearings. In my proffessional experience they do not
>hold up as well as other makes. You usually get what you pay for.
>
>
> Woody
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
At what point of your survey do you make your decision?
>
>Listers:
>
>I have been looking at some alternatives to the Rotax engine. I have
>gotten some input on the Kawasaki 440 engine. Some people swear it to
>be better than the Rotax 447. Parts are readily available, and cheaper
>than Rotax. There is apparently a 440A and 440B. The B is supposed to
>have more horsepower but not be as good at lower rpms. Do any of you
>have any experience with the Kawasaki 440A or B pro or con??
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
See URL's below (List Subscribe) to take you to the subscription process.
>
>Would like to subscribe to news letter
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New guy on the block! |
Roger,
Welcome to the list! Where are you located? It good to hear about another
Ultrastar. A friend that I fly with has an Ultrastar.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
In a recent post I suggested the use of a spacer on the IVOPROP when used on
Kolb Aircraft. The suggestion originated from two reports, of the IVOPROP
being used on a Kolb MK 111, using a 582 Rotax engine with a C reduction
drive.
One plane owned by Charle Russel was flying on floats the other a land
plane. Both pilots reported the prop striking the airframe. When I notified
IVO he recommended the use of the spacer.
I do use IVOPROPs on all my aircraft.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
Please tell me how to disable the MIME.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: float rigging on the Mk III |
Just to add one more cook in the kitchen...
I always understood that a three blade prop was better for cruising and a two
blade prop was better for raw power - like for climb outs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
I know of one - and only one - guy who flew a 440. Crank shaft broke and took
out the reduction drive and prop. He stalled in from about 200 feet trying to
extend his glide. He's OK. Survived the crash because he was flying a
FLightstar Spider which has a steel frame to protect the pilot - just like the
KOLBS !!
Is the 440 crankshaft a one piece unit or pressed together? the answer should
help you make your decision as to what your going to put your life on the line
for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Another look at the VW |
I thought I would throw this out for the engine discussion that is going
on...Don't have any experience with it at all , just heard about the new
product...
http://www.greatplainsas.com/reduction.html
Oh yea...since it goes on the pulley end of the case , it should work on a
half-VW engine as well that would get it into weight range for the
Firestars. But by the time you buy the redrive and do the VW engine
conversion you could probably buy a decent used 447 or 503. But it is
4-stroke for those (like myself) who are scared of 2-strokes...NOT TRYING TO
INSULT ANYONE'S 2-STROKE , JUST MY PERSONAL LACK OF EXPERIENCE WITH THEM
THAT SCARES ME...PLEASE DON"T FLAME ME!!!
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
EAA#583961 Local CH. #677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Shettel <mshettel(at)mindspring.com> |
Looks like your using Netscape. If its 4.0 click on the edit, then select
preferences from the menu. Should bring up a directory tree. Select messages
under the mail & groups directory. Select the more options button on the lower
right. Here you can change it from "mime" to "as is". Hope this is what your
looking for. FYI, if the subject isn't about Kolbs you may want to add a - Do
Not Archive- statement to your post.
Maurice
flyboy(at)sssnet.com wrote:
>
> Please tell me how to disable the MIME.
>
> Roger
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another look at the VW |
Jeremy, I think if all things were equal, we would all fly a 4 stroke in a
heartbeat over a 2 stroke.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | re: Props: number of blades |
On Mon, 15 Mar 1999 ToddThom(at)aol.com wrote:
> Just to add one more cook in the kitchen...
>
> I always understood that a three blade prop was better for cruising and a two
> blade prop was better for raw power - like for climb outs.
"Better"? How so?
typically a slight reduction in gyro forces on the PTO, and o yeah, if
you got so much power that the big ol 2-blade would strike the ground.
(Recall the Big HP WWII planes ...4-blade on both fighters and long-range
bombers).
A big diameter 2-blade is more efficient in climb and cruise. Among
ULers, changing to 3 blades is usually done without a change in gearbox
(or redrive), which means the prop rpm stays the same. Since the 3 blade
is smaller diameter, the prop tip speeds are therefore slower. Thus,
lower noise. Even most Rotax 2-bladed configurations are spinning at
less than optimal speed for max efficiency (~.75mach at tip?) in cruise,
but are close to optimal in climb, and we all have our noise limits.
As well, the 3-blader never has 2 blades simultaneously
passing by the back of the wing, which reduces the noise in aircraft
such as our pushers. Fix this with the spacer. Aside from number of
blades, prop shape and flexibililty are of course factors. The IVO
looses efficiency from its front/back flex and I've read a documented
test that bears this out. Still, this probably helps quiet things down,
and that may be the goal.
The easy analogy to help understand and believe that longer 2-bladed
props are more efficient is gliders. They have long wings (and a prop
is a wing).
-Ben Ransom
Note, for fun(?):
Tip speed = Circumference * rpm / reduction, converted to easy units
Circumference = pi * diam
=(rpm/reduction_ratio) * diam * pi * (60m/hr * 1ft/12in * 1mile/5280ft)
=(rpm/reduction_ratio) * diam * .00297
e.g, Tip Speed at 6200 rpm for a 66" diam prop and a 2.58:1
gearbox equals
(6200/2.58) * 66 * .00297 = 472mph = mach .66
...i think i got this right.
So, as far as i'm concerned, forget the 3 blader, i'll take the noise
(or a constant speed prop??). To each his own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | re: Props: number of blades |
Corrections:
For some reason my first line was chopped off my last post.
(Maybe this is a hint to me. :-)
That first couple lines were suppose to be...
typically a slight reduction in gyro forces on the PTO, and o yeah, if
...blah blah blah....
Also, I saw in my previous post about the Amtech BuddyTwin that I said
weight of 69 lbs and power of 40 lbs ...DOH! meant to say 40 HP. Also,
for that engine I would say just wait and see at SnF. If Amtech is there,
the news will spread fast.
-Ben
-------------------
Subject: Kolb-List: re: Props: number of blades
[chopped 1st line]
typically a slight reduction in gyro forces on the PTO, and o yeah, if
you got so much power that the big ol 2-blade would strike the ground.
(Recall the Big HP WWII planes ...4-blade on both fighters and long-range
bombers).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | re: Props: number of blades |
GRRRRR, Hey Matt! kolb-list@matronics is killing my first line,
What's the deal?
I'll try starting that line with something other than "From"
xxx From what I know, the only advantage to a 3 blade is noise reduction and
xxx from what I know, the only advantage to a 3 blade is noise reduction and
if this doesn't do it i don't care
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
Todd & Jerry,
Rotax, Kawasaki & Cuyuna all use pressed together crankshafts, that's how
they put that oil seal in the middle of them. If any of them offer a one piece
crank I'm not aware of it. Kawasaki has an all-metal seal that never wears out--
it uses a finger-in -groove setup that accumilates oil from the premix & seals
the
2 cylinders. Most repair shops can not replace the inner crank seal on a
Rotax/Cuyuna & just sell you a new crank.
My buudy in Jax. FL has a Kawasaki 440 with over 450 hours on it & never did
anything but change the plugs & run the tar out of it. Another friend put on over
500 hrs on his before it started loosing power & he never touched his either.
They, like some aircraft engines, have a chrome lined cylinder wall which is
extremely resistant to wear & scuffing. If they are rebuilt & bored oversize,
you
lose the chrome lining.
The 440 is lighter than a 447 (same displacement) & has proved itself. They
have been removed from the UL market because of liability reasons (I believe John
Deere bought them out). The 440B is a very picky, narrow rpm range motor good
for
hi-perf racing (72hp @10Krpm). I heard some guys in WI were using a milder, water
cooled version on their UL's but they drank a lot of gas.
The Kawasaki 340 (30-36hp depending on exhaust & carburation) is much lighter
than the Rotax 277, has more power, is smoother because it has twin cylinders &
is
offered with electric start.
The biggest disadvantage of these engines is that they never(?) came with a
gear redrive, though it can be done. ---Richard Swiderski
ToddThom(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I know of one - and only one - guy who flew a 440. Crank shaft broke and took
> out the reduction drive and prop. He stalled in from about 200 feet trying to
> extend his glide. He's OK. Survived the crash because he was flying a
> FLightstar Spider which has a steel frame to protect the pilot - just like the
> KOLBS !!
>
> Is the 440 crankshaft a one piece unit or pressed together? the answer should
> help you make your decision as to what your going to put your life on the line
> for.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Ben,
You're forgetting another & in my opinion, the biggest, advantage of a 3
blade: it's reduction of vibration. It extends the life of the redrive, engine
&
airframe. The high vibration & noise is a major component of UL pilot fatigue.
Which is best depends on what is most important to you. Everything is a
trade-off.
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> GRRRRR, Hey Matt! kolb-list@matronics is killing my first line,
> What's the deal?
>
> I'll try starting that line with something other than "From"
>
> xxx From what I know, the only advantage to a 3 blade is noise reduction and
>
> xxx from what I know, the only advantage to a 3 blade is noise reduction and
>
> if this doesn't do it i don't care
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Czyrny <czyrny(at)acsu.buffalo.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
This is the point of view explained to me, and the reason I bring it to the list.
I
would like to hear from others, again pro or con.
JIm
Richard wrote:
>
> Todd & Jerry,
> Rotax, Kawasaki & Cuyuna all use pressed together crankshafts, that's how
> they put that oil seal in the middle of them. If any of them offer a one piece
> crank I'm not aware of it. Kawasaki has an all-metal seal that never wears out--
> it uses a finger-in -groove setup that accumilates oil from the premix & seals
the
> 2 cylinders. Most repair shops can not replace the inner crank seal on a
> Rotax/Cuyuna & just sell you a new crank.
> My buudy in Jax. FL has a Kawasaki 440 with over 450 hours on it & never
did
> anything but change the plugs & run the tar out of it. Another friend put on
over
> 500 hrs on his before it started loosing power & he never touched his either.
> They, like some aircraft engines, have a chrome lined cylinder wall which
is
> extremely resistant to wear & scuffing. If they are rebuilt & bored oversize,
you
> lose the chrome lining.
> The 440 is lighter than a 447 (same displacement) & has proved itself. They
> have been removed from the UL market because of liability reasons (I believe
John
> Deere bought them out). The 440B is a very picky, narrow rpm range motor good
for
> hi-perf racing (72hp @10Krpm). I heard some guys in WI were using a milder,
water
> cooled version on their UL's but they drank a lot of gas.
> The Kawasaki 340 (30-36hp depending on exhaust & carburation) is much lighter
> than the Rotax 277, has more power, is smoother because it has twin cylinders
& is
> offered with electric start.
> The biggest disadvantage of these engines is that they never(?) came with
a
> gear redrive, though it can be done. ---Richard Swiderski
>
> ToddThom(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I know of one - and only one - guy who flew a 440. Crank shaft broke and took
> > out the reduction drive and prop. He stalled in from about 200 feet trying
to
> > extend his glide. He's OK. Survived the crash because he was flying a
> > FLightstar Spider which has a steel frame to protect the pilot - just like
the
> > KOLBS !!
> >
> > Is the 440 crankshaft a one piece unit or pressed together? the answer should
> > help you make your decision as to what your going to put your life on the line
> > for.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Kolbers:
Here is an important reminder. We all wring our hands trying to get our
EGTs just right..... and we all know that is enmeshed with the need for
getting the prop loaded correctly. Incorrect load on the prop equalls
incorrect EGTs. I adjusted my Ivo for 6200 static on my 582. Yesterday, just
for the heck of it, I borrowed an electronic tach from a friend. These things
are thought to be dead accurate. It showed my brand new Westberg tach was
reading 200 RPM low. I haven't had time to readjust my prop but I will report
on any changes in EGT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
> Ben,
> You're forgetting another & in my opinion, the biggest, advantage of a 3
> blade: it's reduction of vibration. It extends the life of the redrive,
> engine &
I've not heard there is any difference in vibration due to number
of blades. Why would this be? Are you sure it is because of 3
vs 2 and not some other factor like prop material and flexibility?
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pridgen" <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Pridgen <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 1999 3:38 PM
Subject: tight fitting elevator horn
Kolb List,
Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube? I
am building a Kolb Mark III. and am afraid to force the horn into the tube
or cut the elevator tube back 1/2 inch to get the 1/2 inch / 3/8 inch
clearance along the fuselage tube?
Thanks,
Rick Pridgen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
Richard,I agree with you.There are probably more Kawasaki engines out there
with more troublefree hours then Rotax.Then people that probably haven't
even seen one start putting them down.I wonder how far this sport would be
without Kawasaki!
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kawasaki 440 engine
>
>Todd & Jerry,
> Rotax, Kawasaki & Cuyuna all use pressed together crankshafts, that's
how
>they put that oil seal in the middle of them. If any of them offer a one
piece
>crank I'm not aware of it. Kawasaki has an all-metal seal that never wears
out--
>it uses a finger-in -groove setup that accumilates oil from the premix &
seals the
>2 cylinders. Most repair shops can not replace the inner crank seal on a
>Rotax/Cuyuna & just sell you a new crank.
> My buudy in Jax. FL has a Kawasaki 440 with over 450 hours on it &
never did
>anything but change the plugs & run the tar out of it. Another friend put
on over
>500 hrs on his before it started loosing power & he never touched his
either.
> They, like some aircraft engines, have a chrome lined cylinder wall
which is
>extremely resistant to wear & scuffing. If they are rebuilt & bored
oversize, you
>lose the chrome lining.
> The 440 is lighter than a 447 (same displacement) & has proved itself.
They
>have been removed from the UL market because of liability reasons (I
believe John
>Deere bought them out). The 440B is a very picky, narrow rpm range motor
good for
>hi-perf racing (72hp @10Krpm). I heard some guys in WI were using a
milder, water
>cooled version on their UL's but they drank a lot of gas.
> The Kawasaki 340 (30-36hp depending on exhaust & carburation) is much
lighter
>than the Rotax 277, has more power, is smoother because it has twin
cylinders & is
>offered with electric start.
> The biggest disadvantage of these engines is that they never(?) came
with a
>gear redrive, though it can be done. ---Richard Swiderski
>
>ToddThom(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> I know of one - and only one - guy who flew a 440. Crank shaft broke and
took
>> out the reduction drive and prop. He stalled in from about 200 feet
trying to
>> extend his glide. He's OK. Survived the crash because he was flying a
>> FLightstar Spider which has a steel frame to protect the pilot - just
like the
>> KOLBS !!
>>
>> Is the 440 crankshaft a one piece unit or pressed together? the answer
should
>> help you make your decision as to what your going to put your life on the
line
>> for.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tach innacuracy |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> Here is an important reminder. We all wring our hands trying to get our
> EGTs just right..... and we all know that is enmeshed with the need for
> getting the prop loaded correctly. Incorrect load on the prop equalls
> incorrect EGTs. I adjusted my Ivo for 6200 static on my 582. Yesterday, just
> for the heck of it, I borrowed an electronic tach from a friend. These things
> are thought to be dead accurate. It showed my brand new Westberg tach was
> reading 200 RPM low. I haven't had time to readjust my prop but I will report
> on any changes in EGT.
>
point 1
If you change your prop, be sure to measure with the same instrument
reguardless of which one is dead on. It's like weighing yourself on two
scales. The only true, usable data, showing your change, will be from
the same scale.
point 2
before you change your prop, "how do know the 2 guages are calibrated
exactly the same, and measure in the same proportion?"
Just asking...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | updated seafoam procedure |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
I've updated the Seafoam procedure and am passing it on for your benefit.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
Seafoam Procedure:
1) Take out one spark plug and bring that piston to TDC.
*Use a long plastic stick (oriental chopstick) in the cylinder to sight
TDC*
2) Fill the cylinder to the top with Seafoam.
3) Put in a used spark plug, then rock the prop slightly (getting it in
the rings).
*Be careful here not to cause hydraulic lock which could damage the
crank*
*Rock the prop only slightly with the plug installed*
4) Let it sit for a few days (a week if possible)
5) Start it up and run at about 4000 rpm once it's warmed up.
6) When it quits blowing white smoke out the exhaust, it's ready.
7) Take it for a flight.
8) Put a new plug in the treated cylinder.
9) Repeat steps 1-8 for the other cylinder.
Please Note: The Seafoam *may* foul the plugs. Use some old plugs during
the treatment then put in new ones after the treatment. I have tested it
for the above method. The instructions say that you can add it to your
gas tank, but I would NOT do it because you do not know what it will eat
up. Keep it in the cylinders only. Use the treatment often, about every
10 hours of flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
> > You're forgetting another & in my opinion, the biggest, advantage of a
3
> > blade: it's reduction of vibration. It extends the life of the redrive,
> > engine &
>
> I've not heard there is any difference in vibration due to number
> of blades. Why would this be? Are you sure it is because of 3
> vs 2 and not some other factor like prop material and flexibility?
>
> -Ben
There is a reason though is not so much geared toward number of
blades as it is the care with which the blades are matched. Most, if
not all, three blade props are wood or composite seperate units
held in a hub, thus the profile and weight matching, as well as
center of mass matching, will be much better reducing vibration.
A secondary effect is that the frequency domain of three blades is
shifted out of a common resonant frequency which is coupled with
the engines' harmonic as well. For a four stroke the harmonic is 1/2
the engine RPM, also known as 1/2 harmonic - the frequency
depends on number of cylinders, crankshaft arrangement, and
cylinder arrangement. For a two stroke, in-line, two cylinder with
180 degree crank throws, the harmonic orders which add are
2,4,6,...etc. If the three blade prop moves the harmonic out of a
normal operating regime the effect will seem as though the
combination has smoothed out the system.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tach innacuracy |
Good reason to buy an EIS. Great box. Love it.
>
>Kolbers:
>
> Here is an important reminder. We all wring our hands trying to get our
>EGTs just right..... and we all know that is enmeshed with the need for
>getting the prop loaded correctly. Incorrect load on the prop equalls
>incorrect EGTs. I adjusted my Ivo for 6200 static on my 582. Yesterday,
just
>for the heck of it, I borrowed an electronic tach from a friend. These
things
>are thought to be dead accurate. It showed my brand new Westberg tach was
>reading 200 RPM low. I haven't had time to readjust my prop but I will
report
>on any changes in EGT.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
> No 2-stroke I know of has a one-piece crank (including my weedeater). I'm
> probably mistaken but I think even the comparably "reliable" Rotax 912
> (4-stroke) has a pressed-together-crank. Someone correct me quick if
> mistaken!!
Mistaken. Detroit diesel two strokes, Junkers Jumo 205 and 207,
many other two strokes as well...just ones we can't use, but one-
piece, nonetheless. ; )
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
It should be a slip fit. It's been a while, so maybe I'm forgetting
something, but is it possible to swap the end fittings for the compression
strut with the elevator fittings? Are they the same size or are they
different? Just a shot in the dark. The only other thing would be using the
wrong tube size for the elevator leading edge.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>Subject: tight fitting elevator horn
>
>
>Kolb List,
>Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube? I
>am building a Kolb Mark III. and am afraid to force the horn into the tube
>or cut the elevator tube back 1/2 inch to get the 1/2 inch / 3/8 inch
>clearance along the fuselage tube?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Pridgen
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Sent my 532 off to Airscrew Performance in Arizona today to have the point
ignition
swapped out for a CDI ignition. If it turns out to be a GOOD THING, I will
brag about
it and tell everybody they should do it too. If it turns out to be a
turkey, like the
junk/unreliable ignition parts I got this last summer from A******
Discount Sales,
I will let you guys know that too.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mick Fine <froghair(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
>
>> No 2-stroke I know of has a one-piece crank (including my weedeater). I'm
>> probably mistaken but I think even the comparably "reliable" Rotax 912
>> (4-stroke) has a pressed-together-crank. Someone correct me quick if
>> mistaken!!
>
>Mistaken. Detroit diesel two strokes, Junkers Jumo 205 and 207,
>many other two strokes as well...just ones we can't use, but one-
>piece, nonetheless. ; )
>
>
>J. Baker
Oh Contraire, mon perfectioniste! -
Finally, I caught you! - I said, no 2-stroke "I know of...." I never heard
of 'Detroit' or 'Junkers!' Try as you might, you cannot know what little
there is in my mind - only me and maybe Bill Gates know that!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
In a message dated 3/15/99 9:10:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
froghair(at)busprod.com writes:
<< I seem to keep repeating myself but I thought the idea was to fly in a
manner so that we're not "putting our lives on the line" WHEN the engine
quits??? >>
Hear! Hear!....as all pilots should be aware of ....but with the low mass and
low speed that WE fly, an engine out CAN and usually IS ( I think I actually
know the meaning of that 2 letter word) a NON EVENT. I have had 2 of those non
events with my ol Cuyunna back in the 80's but I must admit one of them vied
with great vigor to be an event........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
Not sure about a "horn." Mine looks more like a "T", with a bolt going
through it. In any case, if yours is powder coated like mine, you'll have
to do quite a bit of polishing with a scraper and emery cloth to get the
coating off the section that slides inside the elevator leading edge. It's
not the only place, either. There's quite a few fittings that you'll need
to get some of the powder coating off of. Wait till you get to the rudder
pedal slider assembly; Between tears and a hammer, I finally moved mine,
but it's still not free. Said to H..... with it, I'm the pilot and it
fits me. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Rick Pridgen <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: KOLB-LIST ; com(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn
> Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 6:50 PM
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Pridgen <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: KOLB-LIST
> Date: Sunday, March 14, 1999 3:38 PM
> Subject: tight fitting elevator horn
>
>
> Kolb List,
> Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube?
I
> am building a Kolb Mark III. and am afraid to force the horn into the
tube
> or cut the elevator tube back 1/2 inch to get the 1/2 inch / 3/8 inch
> clearance along the fuselage tube?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Pridgen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
Rick
One of mine required a bunch of polishing with emery cloth while the other didn't
Terry
Rick Pridgen wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Pridgen <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: KOLB-LIST
> Date: Sunday, March 14, 1999 3:38 PM
> Subject: tight fitting elevator horn
>
> Kolb List,
> Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube? I
> am building a Kolb Mark III. and am afraid to force the horn into the tube
> or cut the elevator tube back 1/2 inch to get the 1/2 inch / 3/8 inch
> clearance along the fuselage tube?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Pridgen
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
Mick Fine wrote:
>
>
> >
> >> No 2-stroke I know of has a one-piece crank (including my weedeater). I'm
> >> probably mistaken but I think even the comparably "reliable" Rotax 912
> >> (4-stroke) has a pressed-together-crank. Someone correct me quick if
> >> mistaken!!
> >
> >Mistaken. Detroit diesel two strokes, Junkers Jumo 205 and 207,
> >many other two strokes as well...just ones we can't use, but one-
> >piece, nonetheless. ; )
> >
> >
> >J. Baker
>
> Oh Contraire, mon perfectioniste! -
>
> Finally, I caught you! - I said, no 2-stroke "I know of...." I never heard
> of 'Detroit' or 'Junkers!' Try as you might, you cannot know what little
> there is in my mind - only me and maybe Bill Gates know that!
>
> -Mick Fine
> Tulsa, Oklahoma
> http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
> Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
> http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
>
touche!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>
> > Ben,
> > You're forgetting another & in my opinion, the biggest, advantage of a
3
> > blade: it's reduction of vibration. It extends the life of the redrive,
> > engine &
>
> I've not heard there is any difference in vibration due to number
> of blades. Why would this be? Are you sure it is because of 3
> vs 2 and not some other factor like prop material and flexibility?
>
For some reason this also seems true in boats. I had a 25 HP diesel in
a sailboat and switched from a two blade prop to a three blade.
Noticeably smoother.
woody weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
Rick, you can lightly sand the horn to get it to fit into the elevator torque
tube. On my MKIII I got it to almost fit and then tapped it with a piece of
wood to get it to seat. Once in place I then rivetted as per directions.
Just make sure you've got it properly aligned.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
<< froghair(at)busprod.com >>
Hi gang, looks like Mike is correct and I'm wrong. After Mike's e-mail back I
checked with LEAF and AS&S and they both confirmed that ALL Rotax cranks are
pressed together. Looks like I should have checked my source of info.
Sorry.
"Hey Todd, nice sun tan!"
Todd replys, "No, that's embarrassment!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fly-In Invitation St Elmo Alabama |
EAA Chapter 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2r5) would like to invite anyone interested
to our second annual fly-in this weekend March 20th and 21st. A Rain date
will be the following weekend March 27th and 28th. We plan to have bomb drop
and spot landing contest if the weather permits us to. Overnight camping on
the field is available to anyone wishing to stay for the Fly-away Breakfast
Sunday morning. Also planned is a safety seminar for Saturday night.
AV8REXP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
George,
If those are really hairline cracks, I wouldn't fly with that prop.
But I suggest that you wash the prop and make sure that what looks like
cracks and feels like cracks are really cracks. I had found what looked and felt
like cracks on my IVO last year. I bought a used IVO to replace it, and after
removing and disassembling my prop, I noticed that the so-called cracks stopped
at the backing plate. So I washed the blades and the "cracks" washed off. They
were water marks or something like that. I put the prop back on and now I have
a
spare prop.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
George Murphy wrote:
>
> Firehawk, I have a Ferguson F11 with a 582 and an inflight adjustable 3
> blade prop. I have noticed a few hairline cracks in the surface of one of
> the blades. Do you use a in flight adjustable Ivo ? If you do, have you
> ever seen any small surface cracks on any part of the blades??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Michael Highsmith wrote:
bla-bla-bla-bla
Hey Firehawk, (Isn't that what you wish to be called?)
What is your goal here on the "KOLB" list??? If you wish to comment
about the smoothness of a prop, this is fine. It seams your goal is to
try an cause an eruption by the mention of your plane's brand. Is there
a reason for this, or are you just this inept?
It will always be easier to be as smooth as your IVO props, rather
than try to rough it up with the boys, especially when you are safe in
your own home.. So if you wish to mention your "Ferguson", find someone
who wishes to hear about it first.
Keep in mind that sometimes someone will want to hear about a
comparison between the two brands, and that will open the door for you.
Until then, keep in mind your reaction to the uneven compressability of
the new and older props was to install a thicker piece of steel for the
hub, rather than have the thiner piece bored to fit both.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
Hey guys, I need all your ideas again. I wish to wax my MKiii this
Spring. What works well to smooth the paint and make later cleaning
easier?
I have the usual Stits process: fabric, poly brush, poly spray, three coats
of poly tone. The paint it a year and a half old. The easier the waxing
process, the better I like it.
Thanks, jim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
>richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube? I
>am building a Kolb Mark III. and am afraid to force the horn into the tube
>or cut the elevator tube back 1/2 inch to get the 1/2 inch / 3/8 inch
>clearance along the fuselage tube?
The horns are a tight fit for the last 0.5 inches. The flattening of the
horn at the weld distorts the round elevator tube. The horn may be swaged
into the tube to obtain the correct spacing of the elevator with respect to
the boom tube. In my case the elevator tube distorted satisfactorily and
the horn was fit to give the correct clearances.
Good luck
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Segarcts(at)aol.com |
Can anybody give me the phone # of Kolb for Parts?
Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KOlb Phone number |
Kolbaircraft.com is at 610-948-4136.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Kolb phone numbers |
See http://www.kolbaircraft.com/pages/company.html
Ordering Parts: (610) 948-6294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sun n fun plans |
What the heck. Im going too. Never been, and Ive still got a lot to
learn, so this is probably a good way to do it. Hope to see and meet all
of you at the Kolb desk.
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Hey guys, I need all your ideas again. I wish to wax my MKiii this
>Spring. What works well to smooth the paint and make later cleaning
>easier?
Once you Wax it you will have to wax it every two or three months or it
will glaze over, if you use regular car wax.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | props Ivo cracks |
Hey Murphy, are you one of those "Possums from H___" I've been hearing
about for the last 15 years? I thought all you guys were DOI (dead on
impact) by now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tach innacuracy |
>>
>> It showed my brand new Westberg tach was
>> reading 200 RPM low. I haven't had time to readjust my prop but I will
report
>> on any changes in EGT.
>>
Use your tach as a number to start guessing from. Fly with it so you know
the performance. Add a bit of pitch and decide if you gained or lost
performance. Adjust more from there either up or down. I decided to give up
some climb for cruise after I got used to my Twinstar. This is an individual
decision but use what is best for you under the circumstances. Do not limit
yourself to factory numbers.
Dick (the crude country hick) Wood
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Ben Ransom's putur |
At 07:25 PM 15/03/99, you wrote:
>
>>
>>GRRRRR, Hey Matt! kolb-list@matronics is killing my first line,
>> What's the deal?
Hey Ben
Consider yourself lucky. My entire message used to get deleted between
me and the list server. Don't know why but it just started working again for
no definite reason. Only good thing about it was you guys didn't have to put
up with my comments for a month. Vacations over.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: tight fitting elevator horn |
Rick:
Don't know anything about Mark III, but concur with the advice about closely
checking the difference between the two elevator horns and the two wing drag
strut attachment fittings. They looked virtually identical in the FireFly
kit which is currently building me, but were actually of different outside
diameters... over fifteen one-thousandths different, in fact. The Kolb
folks were most helpful to me on this. Good Luck.
Bill Tuton
The Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
FF#76
-----Original Message-----
>>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rick Pridgen <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To: KOLB-LIST
>Kolb List,
>Has any one had problems fitting elevator horns into the elevator tube? I>
> Thanks,
> Rick Pridgen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Murphy <gmpossum(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
Yep a lot of people think we are all D.O.I. cause we keep making big holes
in the ground. Most of the original possums are still flyin them Kolbs and
reakin havoc wherever we go. Well, just this past year we comissioned our
first underwater Kolb. And then we made another one into a pretty good
chainsaw-kolb that cut the tops of three oaks in about 3 seconds. The
possums just crawled away from these experiments and now are in the process
of building a new possummobile from spare parts from other Possum
experiments. I dont think it will be ready for Lakeland this year due to
reload problems with the Tater-Gun. If you see little red beedy eyes in
the dark it is just possums, We aint went anywhere, We are still here just
waitin in the dark.
Possums from H___.
>
>
>Hey Murphy, are you one of those "Possums from H___" I've been hearing
>about for the last 15 years? I thought all you guys were DOI (dead on
>impact) by now.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades; clean the prop |
How many times have I got to tell you guys to clean the prop before you
start complaining about it. Geesssss!! Buy you books and send you to school
and still you eat the teacher.
Firehawk DOOO NOOOT AAAARCHIIIIIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: re: Props: number of blades
>
>George,
>
> If those are really hairline cracks, I wouldn't fly with that prop.
>
> But I suggest that you wash the prop and make sure that what looks like
>cracks and feels like cracks are really cracks. I had found what looked and
felt
>like cracks on my IVO last year. I bought a used IVO to replace it, and
after
>removing and disassembling my prop, I noticed that the so-called cracks
stopped
>at the backing plate. So I washed the blades and the "cracks" washed off.
They
>were water marks or something like that. I put the prop back on and now I
have a
>spare prop.
>
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J
>SE Wisconsin
>
>George Murphy wrote:
>
>>
>> Firehawk, I have a Ferguson F11 with a 582 and an inflight adjustable 3
>> blade prop. I have noticed a few hairline cracks in the surface of one of
>> the blades. Do you use a in flight adjustable Ivo ? If you do, have you
>> ever seen any small surface cracks on any part of the blades??
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Well put, Doc. It gets tiresome. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: re: Props: number of blades
> Date: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 9:56 AM
>
>
> Michael Highsmith wrote:
> bla-bla-bla-bla
>
> Hey Firehawk, (Isn't that what you wish to be called?)
> What is your goal here on the "KOLB" list??? If you wish to comment
> about the smoothness of a prop, this is fine. It seams your goal is to
> try an cause an eruption by the mention of your plane's brand. Is there
> a reason for this, or are you just this inept?
> It will always be easier to be as smooth as your IVO props, rather
> than try to rough it up with the boys, especially when you are safe in
> your own home.. So if you wish to mention your "Ferguson", find someone
> who wishes to hear about it first.
> Keep in mind that sometimes someone will want to hear about a
> comparison between the two brands, and that will open the door for you.
> Until then, keep in mind your reaction to the uneven compressability of
> the new and older props was to install a thicker piece of steel for the
> hub, rather than have the thiner piece bored to fit both.
> Regards
> Doc
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi gang,
I have given up and have finally decided to register my chubby Firestar.
While reading through all the "information kit" from the faa, I notice that
one of the requirements is "carb heat". It seems a bit silly for a rotax,
but that is only my opinion. It would be possibile to do, butttttttttt. Did
any of you guys that went the etra mile have to do that?
Larry (dreading the next few months) Cottrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Jim, Here is what I use and after almost 3 years my paint still looks new.
It is very easy and fast. I don't like hard to apply or having to do it a
lot either. RainX Fast WAX- and to keep it looking good in between Armor
Plate by Armor-All. It also makes a prop look new especially an IVO- 3 blade
smooth as silk prop.
-----Original Message-----
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 1:08 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: wax
>
>Hey guys, I need all your ideas again. I wish to wax my MKiii this
>Spring. What works well to smooth the paint and make later cleaning
>easier?
>I have the usual Stits process: fabric, poly brush, poly spray, three coats
>of poly tone. The paint it a year and a half old. The easier the waxing
>process, the better I like it.
>Thanks, jim.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: registration |
No carb heat on N420P. The DAR asked me about it, and I told him Rotax
532's didn't need carb heat. So far, I have been right.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hi gang,
> I have given up and have finally decided to register my chubby Firestar.
>While reading through all the "information kit" from the faa, I notice that
>one of the requirements is "carb heat". It seems a bit silly for a rotax,
>but that is only my opinion. It would be possibile to do, butttttttttt. Did
>any of you guys that went the etra mile have to do that?
>Larry (dreading the next few months) Cottrell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
Try to stay away from waxes with silicon in them. Read the label. It
works into the fabric texture. If you have to ever paint or touch up, your
going to have fun as even wax and silicon remover can get it out.
Jerry B
FireFly
>
>Hey guys, I need all your ideas again. I wish to wax my MKiii this
>Spring. What works well to smooth the paint and make later cleaning
>easier?
>I have the usual Stits process: fabric, poly brush, poly spray, three coats
>of poly tone. The paint it a year and a half old. The easier the waxing
>process, the better I like it.
>Thanks, jim.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
OK flame me. Is there any relationship to the number of blades and there
passing the trailing edge off the wing at the same time where as a three
blade doesn't.
Jerry B.
>
>> > You're forgetting another & in my opinion, the biggest, advantage
of a 3
>> > blade: it's reduction of vibration. It extends the life of the redrive,
>> > engine &
>>
>> I've not heard there is any difference in vibration due to number
>> of blades. Why would this be? Are you sure it is because of 3
>> vs 2 and not some other factor like prop material and flexibility?
>>
>> -Ben
>
>There is a reason though is not so much geared toward number of
>blades as it is the care with which the blades are matched. Most, if
>not all, three blade props are wood or composite seperate units
>held in a hub, thus the profile and weight matching, as well as
>center of mass matching, will be much better reducing vibration.
>
>A secondary effect is that the frequency domain of three blades is
>shifted out of a common resonant frequency which is coupled with
>the engines' harmonic as well. For a four stroke the harmonic is 1/2
>the engine RPM, also known as 1/2 harmonic - the frequency
>depends on number of cylinders, crankshaft arrangement, and
>cylinder arrangement. For a two stroke, in-line, two cylinder with
>180 degree crank throws, the harmonic orders which add are
>2,4,6,...etc. If the three blade prop moves the harmonic out of a
>normal operating regime the effect will seem as though the
>combination has smoothed out the system.
>
>
>
>J. Baker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sun n fun plans |
Take you EAA card, if you don't have one any other aviation organization
membership card. If that doesn't work, take more money. In fact take lots
of money and plastic. The more the better. Lot's of it.
Your going to have a good time!!!!!
>
>What the heck. Im going too. Never been, and Ive still got a lot to
>learn, so this is probably a good way to do it. Hope to see and meet all
>of you at the Kolb desk.
>
>Erich Weaver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Any body using a 2Si Liquid Cooled 2-Stroker |
Any of you all got any experience with the new liquid cooled 2-stroke
engines 2Si has introduced.
Jerry B.
FireFly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
In a message dated 3/16/99 9:55:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gmpossum(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< If you see little red beedy eyes in
the dark it is just possums, We aint went anywhere, We are still here just
waitin in the dark.
Possums from H___. >>
Never heard of you in my sheltered life, but it sounds like you guys in H___
know how to have an interesting time....sounds like you have a few
stories!!................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Murphy <gmpossum(at)mindspring.com> |
Unfortunately the cracking I have on one of my blades are not Bugs they are
Real cracks. They run from leading edge to trailing edge about halfway down
the prop.
I called Ivo and they said unless it is causing vibration it should be ok.
It is not vibrating now. It just makes me wonder why these cracks appeared.
I think I will just buy a replacement blade just so I wont have to think
about it anymore.
Thanks for all the replies, George M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
| Subject: | carb heat on kolbs |
Larry, carb heaters for bing carbs are available from Leaf and Cps. They
add just enough heat to keep any ice that forms from sticking to the
carb body, not enough to degrade performance. Electric heat for air
cooled motors, water heat for liquid motors. I paid around 3 hundred for
my 582 set. With the removal of mtbe from auto fuels in the future, and
the almost certain use of more alcohol un our fuels, I strongly urge the
use of these heaters.This months Ultralight Flying [usua] paper has an
article on fuels and carb heat,read it.Do you or don't you need it? It's
only money,after spending this much whats a little more? All the best.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Attention Furga-phobes.. |
Those of you who feel that folks who don't own Kolbs should not be allowed to
use this net should consider the fact that Firehawk has provided a number
reliable recommendations based on his years of running Rotax engines and IVO
in a pusher configuration. I suggest that you delete any mail from him prior
to displaying it and allow the rest of us to see what he has to say. His input
has been useful to me on several occasions when I was otherwise stumpted.
Duane Mitchell, FireStar/Mark lll/ FireFly (I LOVE them Kolbs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: registration |
No carb heat on my N6163J, Firestar II with a 503. No problem from the FAA,
either.
John Jung
Larry & Karen Cottrel wrote:
>
> Hi gang,
> I have given up and have finally decided to register my chubby Firestar.
> While reading through all the "information kit" from the faa, I notice that
> one of the requirements is "carb heat". It seems a bit silly for a rotax,
> but that is only my opinion. It would be possibile to do, butttttttttt. Did
> any of you guys that went the etra mile have to do that?
> Larry (dreading the next few months) Cottrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Attention Furga-phobes.. |
"Delete prior to displaying it"?? Sounds like an old canard (not front
surface!) abt a Super Top Secret security classification : Burn Before
Reading. GB
do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
There does seem to be a relationship to a two blade chopping through the
trailing edge flow in a sort of pulsing effect. The three blade does not do
this. The two blade sound has a different quality however. One of my
neighbors who is very airplane literate, compared it to going from a flat
four engine (3 blade prop) to a radial (two blade), he said it gives a
whole different sound quality, he called it "growlier".
The two blade IVO is much quieter than a two blade Warp Drive. Tried a two
blade Warp one time, and it actually got one of the neighbors to come out
and look, he said it was so different that he thought something was wrong.
Listening to it in the cockpit, it sounds a little louder, not much, but
the quality of the noise does not sound as "busy", if that makes any sense.
Right now I am using a two blade 66" IVO with a 532 and B box, 2.58:1 and
it is a good combination.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>OK flame me. Is there any relationship to the number of blades and there
>passing the trailing edge off the wing at the same time where as a three
>blade doesn't.
>Jerry B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
I appreciate Firehawk's input to the list. Good stuff, and i don't
see where he has ever said anything demeaning toward the Kolb Co.
I also still think the plane is a rip-off and IMHO that fault and fraud
is attributable to the original Ferguson "designer".
There would have been a better way to work this out, and a good example
is the Cozy experimental aircraft. Nat Puffer, the Cozy designer, knew
from the get-go that he was making a variant of the Rutan Longeze so the
first thing he did was talk to Burt Rutan. When he couldn't talk Burt
into working with him to make the changes, he insisted on paying Rutan
a small portion -- a royalty if you will -- on every set of Cozy plans
ever sold. I believe Rutan early on said he didn't care about getting
the small change, but Nat Puffer's a man of integrity and insisted.
It's largely a matter of credit where credit is due. I doubt if Ferg
is getting rich by selling planes with clever design elements taken
without discussion or permission from Kolb. I think he shoulda worked
out something with Kolb before putting his plane on the market. If he
had, he might even sell more planes cuz he wouldn't have to hide from
all the ill feelings toward his lack of integrity on this issue (and
who knows, maybe other issues too).
PS: I still would not like to see this list get too many non-Kolb
issues running on it.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Maurice Shettel <mshettel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> Even most Rotax 2-bladed configurations are spinning at
> less than optimal speed for max efficiency (~.75mach at tip?) in cruise,
> but are close to optimal in climb, and we all have our noise limits.
Yes Ben but the 3 blades are also close to optimal in climb. 3 bladed props will
produce more thrust at max power than2 blades. That's why heavy aircraft use them
for better take off and climb performance. The reason 2 blades give better fuel
burns or faster speeds in cruise is because they lack the drag (and mass) of that
extra blade. Did you know there was a single blade prop made for experiments.
Even faster than the 2 blade, but take off and climb performance was terrible.
For some reason the idea just never "took off"
Maurice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: registration |
Larry & Karen Cottrel wrote:
> one of the requirements is "carb heat". It seems a bit silly for a rotax,
> but that is only my opinion. It would be possibile to do, butttttttttt. Did
> any of you guys that went the etra mile have to do that?
Larry:
Don't recall any requirement for carb heat on a Rotax flown
Experimental. May have changed since I registered my MK III
and 912. I do not have carb heat, and to the best of my
knowledge have had not requirement (while flying) for it.
Not to say that some time in the future I may wish I had
it. I think I have flown the MK III in about any weather
condition that I could tolerate and never lost an engine
because of carb ice.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 engine |
> Finally, I caught you! - I said, no 2-stroke "I know of...." I never
> heard of 'Detroit' or 'Junkers!'
What is, is. (*wink*wink*).......; )
Oops...just saw yer second post. Not a put down of Mick...he's a
plenty smart guy, don't ya know.
Hell, I wish I knew half of what I think I know...and don't.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude and a copy-cat plane |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> This whole Ferguson thing is a tempest in a teapot.
> So the guy bought an airplane that I think was not a good an airplane
> as a
> MKIII, it's his money, and if he's proud of spending it that way, I
> could
> care less. I'm glad he's happy.
> Lighten up.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420p (42OldPoops)
Hello Richard,
I think you missed the point we are trying to get over here. An example
would be:
If we were on a "Ford" list, and someone kept talking about his "Chevy",
wouldn't you wonder why??? I don't say a Ferguson is an inferior
plane.. I don't say a Ferguson is a copy-cat of a Kolb. I do say this
list is for the discussion of "Kolbs". If other plane owners wish to
monitor this list and comment on side issues,, this is great. But don't
try to tell me about a Chevy, unless I ask...
I do honor the manor in which you think, however.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: Hinge pins on FS I |
While un-folding my wings yesterday, I noticed the right aileron would not go
to the neutral position[by 90 degrees]. Upon close inspection I found the
inboard hinge pin was missing. By the way, I bought my FS I nearly completed.
It had never occured to me to see what holds the pins in-now I know that the
pin is to be shortened enough to crimp the hinge ends: this had been done on
the rudder & elevator but not the ailerons.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Attention Furga-phobes.. |
. His input
>has been useful to me on several occasions when I was otherwise stumpted.
>
>Duane Mitchell, FireStar/Mark lll/ FireFly (I LOVE them Kolbs)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fly-In Invitation St Elmo Alabama |
Please tell me more about this fly-in. What Field, Coordinance, freq,
Identifier?-Firehawk--
-----Original Message-----
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com <AV8REXP(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 1999 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fly-In Invitation St Elmo Alabama
>
>EAA Chapter 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2r5) would like to invite anyone
interested
>to our second annual fly-in this weekend March 20th and 21st. A Rain date
>will be the following weekend March 27th and 28th. We plan to have bomb
drop
>and spot landing contest if the weather permits us to. Overnight camping
on
>the field is available to anyone wishing to stay for the Fly-away Breakfast
>Sunday morning. Also planned is a safety seminar for Saturday night.
>
>AV8REXP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
I think I saw some of you guys' back in 1990 or 91. Several of us were
flying back from Sun & Fun on our way to N. C. up the coast of Fla. when a
God-Awful front moved in and we landed, I think at Delan airport to wait it
out. About an hour later, after it really hit, here comes four or five
Kolbs out of the clouds, out of the rain, out of the lighting and land!
Don't know how they even found the Airport, didn't have GPS back then, or
at least we didn't. They were soaked; both the planes & the pilots. We
were stuck there till the next day. But those guys went in the terminal
sandwich shop, had lunch, came out about an hour later, got in their
planes, cranked them up and took off back into the storms & headed north. I
know they were crazy.
Saw a couple of "Possum" decals on their planes. Don't know if they made it
very far or not. Think they were possums?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Attention Furga-phobes.. |
i ain't gonna change my point of view about those " wannabee" Fergusons.
as far as i'm concerned they're still a fraud and they'll always be. just
because a guy puts on a dress that doesn't make him a girl ( except in prison )
, and the same analogy applies to Fergusons. i think it is obvious that i ain't
no liberal and i don't have an open mind. there's no room for compromise here,
fegusons out !................ shades of Hillary, this is too much !
........................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
Dunno. Did they have "little red beedy eyes ??" I hear tell they're
developing an electric motor for their Kolb submarine. Maybe we should
just keep them in the dark.
Big Lar.
----------
> From: year-2000(at)mindspring.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: possums from H____
> Date: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 7:56 PM
>
>
>
> I think I saw some of you guys' back in 1990 or 91. Several of us were
> flying back from Sun & Fun on our way to N. C. up the coast of Fla. when
a
> God-Awful front moved in and we landed, I think at Delan airport to wait
it
> out. About an hour later, after it really hit, here comes four or five
> Kolbs out of the clouds, out of the rain, out of the lighting and land!
> Don't know how they even found the Airport, didn't have GPS back then, or
> at least we didn't. They were soaked; both the planes & the pilots. We
> were stuck there till the next day. But those guys went in the terminal
> sandwich shop, had lunch, came out about an hour later, got in their
> planes, cranked them up and took off back into the storms & headed north.
I
> know they were crazy.
> Saw a couple of "Possum" decals on their planes. Don't know if they made
it
> very far or not. Think they were possums?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fergi debate |
<< Resorting to cheap-shot insults is a pathetic and unnecessary way to state
your opinion. I don't think anyone appreciates it. Mike is good guy that
contributes much to this list. ToddThom, I won't go so low as to insult
you directly since I don't know you, but "pinhead" seems to better
describe your statements rather than Mike's. Let's be civil and have sense
of humor.
Bill Rayfield >>
I'm with Bill....hey..I just got here and this place is cold!!!!!...I think
Homer would have a heart-attack if he could hear the way some of you guys are
representing Kolb Aircraft. Go fly your planes....it's the best attitude
adjustment I know of
and some of you need it badly. :
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
Just got an info pack from RotorPower about 2 motors available:
LCR-407-1SGti
Single rotor,407cc, fuel injected, 35hp@6000, 77lbs w/o exhaust
LCR-610-1.5SGti
One larger rotor or 2 smaller rotors, take your pick. This one I'm making
up to replace my 503SC.
LCR-814-2SGti
Twin rotor, 814cc, fuel injected, 75hp@6000, 109 lbs w/o exhaust
They both come with dual ignition, electric starter, 3:1 Cog belt reduction
and burn reg unleaded, 80:1 oil premix. 2000hr TBO - the rep says it's
about $1000 in parts for the single.
Carb versions available too, slightly cheaper, 70hp for the Twin. The FI
versions include altitude compensating fuel management system.
The current versions are made in Germany; and the prices say so -
Single:$6829, Twin:$9995 USD FOB Ontario.
But they plan to begin making them in Canada in about 8 months and I
was told that the Single would go for $3780 . Let's see, that puts the twin
rotor
at about $5534.45 if the ratio remains. (All prices and weights are w/o
exhaust.
Hmm, and radiator too - I think they're water cooled.)
If they hold up to serious scrutiny methinks they could be a great
alternative.
Meanwhile, my new-to-me Mk II is in glider mode while it's 503 is in the
shop. If it needs too much maybe I'll wait for the Canadians to get
rolling, while I go thru the rest of the plane.
David (friends don't let friends fly 2-strokes, except usually) Bruner
aka The Tree Hugger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Maurice Shettel wrote:
>
>
> Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> > Even most Rotax 2-bladed configurations are spinning at
> > less than optimal speed for max efficiency (~.75mach at tip?) in cruise,
> > but are close to optimal in climb, and we all have our noise limits.
>
> Yes Ben but the 3 blades are also close to optimal in climb. 3 bladed props
will
> produce more thrust at max power than2 blades. That's why heavy aircraft use
them
> for better take off and climb performance. The reason 2 blades give better fuel
> burns or faster speeds in cruise is because they lack the drag (and mass) of
that
> extra blade. Did you know there was a single blade prop made for experiments.
> Even faster than the 2 blade, but take off and climb performance was terrible.
> For some reason the idea just never "took off"
>
> Maurice
>
>
The biggest disadvantage to a single blade prop is ground clearance.
Look at the man-powered aircraft.
Big two blades. If ever efficiency mattered it is here. A lot of three
and four blade props are used simply for ground clearance or in the
casae of the MX tube clearance. The MX is limited to a 52" diameter
prop. A three blade 52" is better than a two blade 52". It is not
better than a two blade 66 inch;
woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | djwatson(at)olg.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Attention Furga-phobes.. |
Isn't it funny that the one person on the list that has given me the most help
on buying a Kolb doesn't even own one. Thanks again Firehawk for the "off list
E-mails"
Hoping to be a Kolb owner soon, Dennis in MD.
.......................................................
> .. His input
> >has been useful to me on several occasions when I was otherwise stumpted.
> >
> >Duane Mitchell, FireStar/Mark lll/ FireFly (I LOVE them Kolbs)
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Murphy <gmpossum(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
>
>
>I think I saw some of you guys' back in 1990 or 91. Several of us were
>flying back from Sun & Fun on our way to N. C. up the coast of Fla. when a
>God-Awful front moved in and we landed, I think at Delan airport to wait it
>out. About an hour later, after it really hit, here comes four or five
>Kolbs out of the clouds, out of the rain, out of the lighting and land!
>Don't know how they even found the Airport, didn't have GPS back then, or
>at least we didn't. They were soaked; both the planes & the pilots. We
>were stuck there till the next day. But those guys went in the terminal
>sandwich shop, had lunch, came out about an hour later, got in their
>planes, cranked them up and took off back into the storms & headed north. I
>know they were crazy.
>Saw a couple of "Possum" decals on their planes. Don't know if they made it
>very far or not. Think they were possums?
>
>
>Well you were right. Now we aint crazy we just look that way. The best I
remember the weather wasnt too bad, after all it was only water. Sorry we
didnt get to meet you guys at the airport but we had to keep going cause
they didnt have cold beer. You must have been the guys flying those amfib
types and pushing them into that dry hangar. Wernt they designed to be used
in Water??? Should have had a Kolb. What do you mean "dont know if they
made it far or not" we were all flying Firestars wernt we? We did have to
land in a cow pasture on the way back cause someone had moved the airport
we were trying to get to. We had to replace just one prop when it sheared
off after one of the guys tried to fly under a telephone cable. What a putz
he should have used wire cutters, we think he was just showin off. The
farmer we were buzing when this happened wasnt even mad at us. We had just
cut his telephone line and 5 of us had to land in his field he was plowing.
He was real friendly, even ofered to let us use his telephone to call for
help. Aint flyin a hoot, you get to meet the friendliest people.
Possums From he__
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
David,
Get your 503 fixed or replace it with a new one. But leave the "test
piloting" of new engines to those that have lot's of time in their planes and
lots of money to burn. It might also be helpful to have more than one plane to
do testing like that. If you worry about two strokes, why try no strokes? This
is just my opinion, but I think that it is worth considering.
John Jung
David Bruner wrote:
>
> Just got an info pack from RotorPower about 2 motors available:
>
> LCR-407-1SGti
> Single rotor,407cc, fuel injected, 35hp@6000, 77lbs w/o exhaust
>
> LCR-610-1.5SGti
> One larger rotor or 2 smaller rotors, take your pick. This one I'm making
> up to replace my 503SC.
>
> LCR-814-2SGti
> Twin rotor, 814cc, fuel injected, 75hp@6000, 109 lbs w/o exhaust
>
> They both come with dual ignition, electric starter, 3:1 Cog belt reduction
> and burn reg unleaded, 80:1 oil premix. 2000hr TBO - the rep says it's
> about $1000 in parts for the single.
>
> Carb versions available too, slightly cheaper, 70hp for the Twin. The FI
> versions include altitude compensating fuel management system.
>
> The current versions are made in Germany; and the prices say so -
> Single:$6829, Twin:$9995 USD FOB Ontario.
>
> But they plan to begin making them in Canada in about 8 months and I
> was told that the Single would go for $3780 . Let's see, that puts the twin
> rotor
> at about $5534.45 if the ratio remains. (All prices and weights are w/o
> exhaust.
> Hmm, and radiator too - I think they're water cooled.)
>
> If they hold up to serious scrutiny methinks they could be a great
> alternative.
>
> Meanwhile, my new-to-me Mk II is in glider mode while it's 503 is in the
> shop. If it needs too much maybe I'll wait for the Canadians to get
> rolling, while I go thru the rest of the plane.
>
> David (friends don't let friends fly 2-strokes, except usually) Bruner
> aka The Tree Hugger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Murphy <gmpossum(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____submarine |
>
>Dunno. Did they have "little red beedy eyes ??" I hear tell they're
>developing an electric motor for their Kolb submarine. Maybe we should
>just keep them in the dark.
> Big Lar.
>
>-Now Big Lar,
Using an electric motor is just plumb silly. You know we cant find an
extention cord that long. And besides you have to have someone to plug it
in for you all the time.
Possums From He__
>>
>>
>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ToddThom(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Radio controlled guys have been flying single blades for years. BUt it is for
a very specialized competition event called "SPEED" These airplanes are
teathered to a steel post and the pilot has elevator control. The aircraft
not only have one propellor but they have one wing to cut down on drag.
Their quest is for only one thing: SPEED. And they achive it. Well over 200,
They go so fast around this post that it'll make you throwup to watch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
In a message dated 3/17/99 1:15:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mshettel(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< The reason 2 blades give better fuel
burns or faster speeds in cruise is because they lack the drag (and mass) of
that
extra blade. Did you know there was a single blade prop made for
experiments.
Even faster than the 2 blade, but take off and climb performance was
terrible.
For some reason the idea just never "took off"
Maurice >>
Of course many of you remember the old model airplanes that sported the single
blade counter weighted FOLDING single blade on many of the rubber powered
models of the 40s and 50s...the Wakefield won the international contest owned
by a fella calle Dick Corda from Ariz. I think.....I have one that I started
10 years ago out in the garage. Great for free flight and very streamlined
when they fold back after losing power.........maybe we should put this on a
Kolb......naw...just teasin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
In a message dated 3/17/99 10:55:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
year-2000(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< They were soaked; both the planes & the pilots. We
were stuck there till the next day. But those guys went in the terminal
sandwich shop, had lunch, came out about an hour later, got in their
planes, cranked them up and took off back into the storms & headed north. I
know they were crazy.
Saw a couple of "Possum" decals on their planes. Don't know if they made it
very far or not. Think they were possums?
>>
My Gawd!!......do we have free spirited Kolb people??!!....I would assume that
they died immediately thereafter!!!........
good story....GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Repack Second Chantz |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Can anyone tell me who or where to get a used Second Chantz chute checked
and repacked?
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
David Bruner wrote:
>
>
> Just got an info pack from RotorPower about 2 motors available:
>
> LCR-407-1SGti
> Single rotor,407cc, fuel injected, 35hp@6000, 77lbs w/o exhaust
>
> LCR-610-1.5SGti
> One larger rotor or 2 smaller rotors, take your pick. This one I'm making
> up to replace my 503SC.
>
> LCR-814-2SGti
> Twin rotor, 814cc, fuel injected, 75hp@6000, 109 lbs w/o exhaust
>
> They both come with dual ignition, electric starter, 3:1 Cog belt reduction
> and burn reg unleaded, 80:1 oil premix. 2000hr TBO - the rep says it's
> about $1000 in parts for the single.
>
> Carb versions available too, slightly cheaper, 70hp for the Twin. The FI
> versions include altitude compensating fuel management system.
>
> The current versions are made in Germany; and the prices say so -
> Single:$6829, Twin:$9995 USD FOB Ontario.
>
> But they plan to begin making them in Canada in about 8 months and I
> was told that the Single would go for $3780 . Let's see, that puts the twin
> rotor
> at about $5534.45 if the ratio remains. (All prices and weights are w/o
> exhaust.
> Hmm, and radiator too - I think they're water cooled.)
>
> If they hold up to serious scrutiny methinks they could be a great
> alternative.
>
> Meanwhile, my new-to-me Mk II is in glider mode while it's 503 is in the
> shop. If it needs too much maybe I'll wait for the Canadians to get
> rolling, while I go thru the rest of the plane.
>
> David (friends don't let friends fly 2-strokes, except usually) Bruner
> aka The Tree Hugger
>
I think you need to take a look at the fuel burn rate, it is probably
scary!! Steve Ward tubro Geo Mark-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
In a message dated 3/18/99 8:25:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gmpossum(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Sorry we
didnt get to meet you guys at the airport but we had to keep going cause
they didnt have cold beer. You must have been the guys flying those amfib
types and pushing them into that dry hangar. Wernt they designed to be used
in Water??? Should have had a Kolb. What do you mean "dont know if they
made it far or not" we were all flying Firestars wernt we? >>
Now there's a real MAN!....Great story GEORGE...Hey! we George's gotta stick
together...even if you are a 'possum!!.....Now watch ...everybody's gonna jump
on the beer statement and try to rectify the world according to
THEM!!........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: kolb people at sun an fun |
In a message dated 3/18/99 8:50:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, zoper(at)mint.net
writes:
<< I've been pondering on how we can identify kolb folks at
the sun and fun fly in. Got to be cheap. Got to be positive. Got to be
removeable' So's we can blend into a crowd. How about using a small
patch of some yet to be decided color pined onto the sleve edge of our
t-shirts. Another idea would be to pin a possum tail onto our hats, but
it might not be politicaly correct.[or sanitary.]See ya there. >>
Sounds like a Great Idea.....my heart is with the possums but where do they
get their tails??......GeoR38......I'll be there Fr and Sat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
Hello all! :
If anyone's interested in an Ultrastar w/nosepod & inst. let me know.
Email me direct and I'll tell you the details.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
On Thu, 18 Mar 1999, David Bruner wrote:
> Just got an info pack from RotorPower about 2 motors available:
an additional comment about rotaries, at least on the Mazda 13...
They are LOUD and the exhaust is hot. So, any use on aircraft will
have to include hefty exhaust system, more substantial than 4stroke
but not as bad as tuned exh 2-stroke.
BTW, my brother Jim told me that the Amtech Buddy Twin is written
up in the new Experimenter Mag.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Loveman David" <ultralightnews(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repack Second Chantz |
>
>
> Can anyone tell me who or where to get a used Second Chantz chute checked
> and repacked?
>
> L. Ray Baker
> Lake Butler, Fl
> Building Mark III
>
> Second Chanz is no longer in business and BRS no longer offers to repack
them into their systems.
Dave Loveman
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer questions from a Kolb wannabe |
On Thu, 18 Mar 1999, JOHN M. COOLEY wrote:
> controlled models. Secondly, I have an airstrip that is 60 feet wide and
> 1,000 feet long with small pine trees on the border of each side. Is this
> sufficient for a U/L aircraft. If not,what is min. width. Lastly, what do
> most of you have for a hanger. Is it practical to fold/unfold the wings on
> Kolb's each time you fly. Has anyone tried the hanger that Ragwing aircraft
> advertises(greenhouse type). Sorry this got so long, but I want to learn as
> much as possible and I sincerely appreciate any information offered.
Yes, 1000x60 is adequate, but the main concern is the short pines on the
side. Shorter than a Kolb wing would be nice. Kolb FS is 28' wide so
you'd have to be good enf to touch down within 15' either side of center
line. I'd not make it the first place you use but after that should be
good.
I fold/unfold each time. It is do-able, especially if you don't trailer.
Trailering adds a bit more set up time. All of this makes it inexpensive
but less attractive to go jump in and take a short blast --- just not
worth the hassle. If it is your own place I'd rig a simple awning to
park under and away from most of sun and rain. Add walls, doors later.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
>>
>I think you need to take a look at the fuel burn rate, it is probably
>scary!! Steve Ward tubro Geo Mark-3
Steve, Please tell us about your turbo Geo Mark-3. Do you have a Ravens
setup? How many hours do you have on it? Are you satisfied with performance?
Did you need to make air frame mods to mount it? Please I'm very curious.
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Teaching yourself to fly |
Kolbers:
In connection with the recent thread on whether it makes sense to test
fly your aiplane by youself I offer the follwing NTSB accident report. Do you
think this guy is kicking himself in the butt? All that money and effort for
probably less than a minute of flying time.
NTSB Identification: NYC99LA072
Accident occurred MAR-14-99 at MECHANICSBURG, PA
Aircraft: Newhart ROTORWAY EXEC 162F, registration: N124CF
Injuries: 1 Minor.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On March 14, 1999, at 1038 eastern standard time, a homebuilt Rotorway Exec
162F, N124CF, was substantially damaged while the pilot was practicing
hovering in an open field in Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania. The certificated
commercial pilot received minor injuries. Visual meteorological conditions
prevailed for the solo practice flight. No flight plan had been filed for the
flight which was conducted under 14 CFR Part 91. The pilot reported that he
was on his initial solo flight when the accident occurred. He had brought the
helicopter to what he estimated was a 6 inch hover. After a few seconds, the
left rear skid caught on the ground and the helicopter rolled over on its left
side. The frame and main rotor drive shaft were bent, and the main rotor
blades were destroyed. According to the pilot, he held a single engine land
rating for airplanes, and had accumulated about 200 hours. However, he had not
flown in several years. As the construction of the helicopter neared
completion, the pilot went to the kit manufacturer's facility in Arizona,
where he received 10.5 hours of dual instruction in the helicopter. The pilot
had been signed off for solo flight on January 29, 1999, and had not flown
between the solo sign off and the accident flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
Roger,
>If anyone's interested in an Ultrastar w/nosepod & inst. let me know.
>Email me direct and I'll tell you the details.
Oh oh.... What brought this on? :)
What's the story?
Regards,
Skip
1984 UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repack Second Chantz |
Info I got off the Fly-UL list is you now have an antique. BRS is no longer
repacking,
modifying them for use anymore.
-Mark Swihart-
West Coast Fly-In '99 at PRB Apr30-May 2
Bradley, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 7:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Repack Second Chantz
>
>
>Can anyone tell me who or where to get a used Second Chantz chute checked
>and repacked?
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
Skip Staub wrote:
>
>
> Roger,
>
> >If anyone's interested in an Ultrastar w/nosepod & inst. let me know.
> >Email me direct and I'll tell you the details.
>
> Oh oh.... What brought this on? :)
>
> What's the story?
>
> Regards,
> Skip
> 1984 UltraStar
>
If you all must know... I had 2 hip replacements and a motorcycle
accident. One hip replacement is still loose and I just had one done
1-11-99. The wife is singing chin music so hard, I have little choice.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
>
>David,
>
> Get your 503 fixed or replace it with a new one. But leave the "test
>piloting" of new engines to those that have lot's of time in their planes and
>lots of money to burn. It might also be helpful to have more than one plane to
>do testing like that. If you worry about two strokes, why try no strokes?
I had a Mazda RX7. Damm fine engine. It was not a piston engine and
should not be treated as one (Didn't I just say the same thing about Rotaxes
and Hirth last week). Great power, smooth running, dependable. Rally cars
race these engines all season without rebuilds. Piston engines are rebuilt
every race. There is a lot of power changing directions in a piston engine
every time a piston is at tdc or bdc. Rotaries just keep on spinning.
keep them in fresh oil and don't let them sit for extended periods and it
will last forever ( At least the Mazdas). Mazdas produced power like a mid
size v8 and drank gas like one also giving them a reputation for gas
guzzling. Most people figured they should drink gas like a 4 banger. Just
my opinion but I would like a rotary. Someone has to test these things so
why not someone in "experimental" aircraft. Engine outs never really scare
me. The only thing any engine does in any aircraft is move it forward. Look
at the accident statistics for engine out crashes. How many were really
pilot error when trying to land dead stick. Not to be cruel to the dear
departed but lets keep in mind proper safety procedures taught when we first
learned to fly. Airplanes are terribly unforgiving if mistakes are made near
the ground or when under the control of a panicky pilot.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
We had just
>cut his telephone line and 5 of us had to land in his field he was plowing.
>He was real friendly, even ofered to let us use his telephone to call for
>help.
Reminds me of the modem I got for christmas. Couldn't get it to work so
following instructions I was told to email them for support. If the damm
thing worked I would have the capability to email but wouldn't need to.
So how did you use his phone after you cut his phone line?
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
>
>But they plan to begin making them in Canada in about 8 months and I
>was told that the Single would go for $3780 . Let's see, that puts the twin
>rotor
>at about $5534.45 if the ratio remains. (All prices and weights are w/o
>exhaust.
>Hmm, and radiator too - I think they're water cooled.)
>
Where about in Canada?
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Fe-Fe stuff to think about |
>Jim, Here is what I use and after almost 3 years my paint still looks new.
>It is very easy and fast. I don't like hard to apply or having to do it a
>lot either. RainX Fast WAX- and to keep it looking good in between Armor
>Plate by Armor-All. It also makes a prop look new especially an IVO- 3
blade
>smooth as silk prop.
Michael;
Try a Powerfin prop, it's just as smooth but doesn't flex like a wet noodle
like the IVO poop. Performance should go up, even on that orphan Fe-Fe
model. If you don't care to go faster, throttle back and save some fuel.
I read you say that the IVO can push your Fe-Fe to Vne. Unless your Vne is
about 75, the Fe-Fe must be "slipperyer" than my Mkiii, would you care to
describe the aerodynamic differences, assuming you've studied both a
little? I am VERY interested. I've spent a lot of time on improving mine,
theoretically (not tested yet, detailed report of improvements and
resulting performance increase and noise reduction coming SOON).
As for the Ferguson-bashing that's going on...
Boy, some of these guys take this a little too seriously, don't they?
Please ignore the whiners, and keep posting your experience. I, for one,
am not above learning from the experiences of others. If the Fe-Fe has a
feature different than my Kolb, and it is better, I will consider
incorporating it. I look at your information with interest, as it could be
considered as coming from an evolution of the Kolb. I never throw away an
idea, I keep them all in a little grey bag.
****On the other hand, try not to FLAUNT your Fe-Fe, because this just
stirs up the sensitive guys, and wastes bandwidth while they bitch you out.
Concentrate on the relevent facts, consider your audience.****
Yesterday there must've been 35 posts, most of them useless whining and
name-calling. This list is not usually like this, at least in the past.
Before this behavior started, it was nothing but quality technical exchange
and encouragement.
Do you guys remember when your mom told you "it takes two to tangle", when
you made your sister cry?
Do you remember what it means? If someone tells about his XYZ model and
you don't like it, DON'T START NAME-CALLING AND WHINING AND STONE-THROWING
BECAUSE IT EMPOWERS THE GUY AND ENCOURAGES HIM TO CONTINUE.
Learn what you can from it, discard what is unuseable. And take pride in
your decision to fly a Kolb and consider the Ferguson "industrial
espionage" a compliment to the Kolb design.
Do you guys think you can stop innovation? Do you want everyone to fly
Kolbs? Do you realize how dull we'd become without change and innovation
driven by healthy competition?
We all have the power to make this a valuable information exchange, or a
mud-slinging contest. So choose.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teaching yourself to fly |
The pilot reported that he
> was on his initial solo flight when the accident occurred. He had brought the
> helicopter to what he estimated was a 6 inch hover. After a few seconds, the
> left rear skid caught on the ground and the helicopter rolled over on its left
> side. The frame and main rotor drive shaft were bent, and the main
Hey Guys:
Good example of over confidence and under qualification.
However, I soloed a TH-55 helicopter in the Army at 10.0
hrs, but I wasn't test flying it and I had some very
competent instruction before I was kicked out of the nest.
Generally in rotorcraft a normal hover height is three feet,
not six inches. When he hooked the left rear skid he
probably gave it left cyclic and got into dynamic rollover.
Once the helicopter gets so far in the roll attitude with
one skid on the ground, the main rotor pulls the aircraft
right on over. There is not enough lateral cyclic at this
time to correct the situation. It is kiss your buns good
bye. Could have been a lot worse, not just a minor injury.
john h (not missing the fling wings in hauck's holler,
alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teaching yourself to fly |
>
>Kolbers:
>
> In connection with the recent thread on whether it makes sense to test
>fly your aiplane by youself I offer the follwing NTSB accident report. Do you
>think this guy is kicking himself in the butt? All that money and effort for
>probably less than a minute of flying time.
>
This had nothing to do with testing a new helicopter. It is about
someone without the skill to fly a helicopter having an accident. It would
have happened if it had a hundred hours on it and the same novice pilot.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Folding Firestar |
Hi Gang
I trailer about four miles, and unfold and fold the aircraft every time
I
fly. It takes me 20 min. to unfold,and roll the Firestar off the trailer (
flatbed no sides ). As was said before, it is a great preflight and only
leaves a few other things that need to be checked before you yell Clear Prop!
Lanny Fetterman FS 598
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Hi All;
I have a question, how large a three blade prop would it take to be as
efficient as a 66 inch two blade? Is there some kind of ratio you go by
besides weight?
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: possums from H____ |
>Now we aint crazy we just look that way. The best I
>remember the weather wasnt too bad, after all it was only water.
No!, you are crazy, here's what we heard on the raido.
"George-- they're really gonna think we're crazy now!"
"We are crazy."
"Oh yeah-- I forgot."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
I'd like to hear about it too, Steve. Please let us know how it's been
doing for you. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Eugene Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotory Engine
> Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 4:33 AM
>
>
>
> >>
> >I think you need to take a look at the fuel burn rate, it is probably
> >scary!! Steve Ward tubro Geo Mark-3
>
>
> Steve, Please tell us about your turbo Geo Mark-3. Do you have a Ravens
> setup? How many hours do you have on it? Are you satisfied with
performance?
> Did you need to make air frame mods to mount it? Please I'm very curious.
>
> Eugene Zimmerman
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kolb FireFly for sale |
Recently completed show quality FireFly/447 Rotax. Built by perfectionist Tom
Hertz (his second). Wet look paint, thoroughly flight tested, trimmed and
ready to go.
Call (850) 562-6764 evenings and weekends (North Florida/EST). Asking $12,500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Folding Firestar |
Hi Lanny: Do you trailer your plane nose or tail first ?? How do you
hold down the wings and tail to prevent movement and chafing ?? What
speeds do you tow at ?? A full trailer would be nice, but a flatbed would
be simpler and cheaper, as long as the plane doesn't get beat up on it. A
hangar at any of the local airports costs $270.00 - $300.00 a month. I'm
not real crazy about tying down outside with the horrendous sun here in the
summer. They say the Stits can take it for years, but I dunno. I'm
spooky when it's MY baby out there. Not to mention malicious hands pawing
at it. Thanks in advance. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Folding Firestar
> Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 3:39 PM
>
>
>
> Hi Gang
>
> I trailer about four miles, and unfold and fold the aircraft
every time I
> fly. It takes me 20 min. to unfold,and roll the Firestar off the trailer
(
> flatbed no sides ). As was said before, it is a great preflight and only
> leaves a few other things that need to be checked before you yell Clear
Prop!
>
> Lanny Fetterman FS 598
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
stick with the two blade unless the noise bothers you. two blade are the most
efficient. a single blade is even better.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotory Engine
>
>David,
>
> Get your 503 fixed or replace it with a new one. But leave the "test
>piloting" of new engines to those that have lot's of time in their planes
and
>lots of money to burn. It might also be helpful to have more than one plane
to
>do testing like that. If you worry about two strokes, why try no strokes?
This
>is just my opinion, but I think that it is worth considering.
>
>John Jung
>
>David Bruner wrote:
>
>>
>> Just got an info pack from RotorPower about 2 motors available:
John,
Thanks for the excellent suggestion. Just thought I'd try to whet a bit o'
interest so some others might do the test pilot routine for me (where's
Rusty when he's needed)!
Still haven't heard about my "rebuilt 15 hrs ago" 503 - hoping for the best.
The cylinders looked good but the rings were frozen and worn and there was a
lot of blow-by. How could this be? Weird motors that I'm going to have to
come to some kind of understanding with.
Had a car - Mazda station wagon - with a rotory in it back when they first
came out. Very fast. Burned anything available. The wife would always
forget to shift, finding herself at 70 on the Fwy in 2nd gear - the tach
pegged - just humming along. Great luck with the motor in that car!
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repack Second Chantz |
I had my Second Chantz repaired ( had some minor damage) and repacked by
Wayne Downey
1433 Heather Glen
Deland Florida
904-738-9687
This was a soft pack, not a hard pack. I sent him the chute and the sleeve,
he repaired it and fitted it into the sleeve, and redid the shrouds. I had to
put it back into the soft pack bag myself. (No big deal)
He is a certified parachute rigger, and has the Second Chantz manuals.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>Can anyone tell me who or where to get a used Second Chantz chute checked
>and repacked?
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Saw some interest in hangars tonight, different questions. One of our local
EAA guys designed a hangar that is very simple, and very strong. I built
mine 6 years ago. Two years ago we had a 2' wet snow load and no problems.
It cost $1200 to build.
It is open front, no doors, but it is modular, my son and I built it in a
week, start to finish, just the two of us. It is now 6 years old and no
problems. (Watch, it will collapse tomorrow...)
E-mail me off list at rpike(at)preferred.com, and if there is enough interest,
and when I get time, I will draw up some plans and send them out for costs.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
from: Mail Delivery Subsystem
| Subject: | Mail Delivery Problem |
Sorry kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com. Your mail to jballen96 could not be delivered
because jballen96 is not accepting mail with attachments
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: where do they get their tails? |
In a message dated 3/18/99 7:44:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< possums(at)mindspring.com (Possum)
To: GeoR38(at)aol.com
File: poss jacket.jpg (54872 bytes) >>
I must have one of these jackets or sweater or whatever it is
.......gottalotarespect for the possums if the stories are even close to being
true....besides you folks talk funny and that's neat too.....after all...one
of my favorite expressions is " shoot man...Hey!!" I will be a the Kolb tent
or trailer on Thursday of S & F and could buy one there or could get it before
hand if you tell me how but would like to wear it there at some
point!!.....GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer questions from a Kolb wannabe |
John,
I would like to give my opinion of a Kolb as a beginner aircraft. I
recommend Kolbs only to those that already have their pilots license or at least
a significant amount of solo hours, or to ultralight pilots with significant
three axis experience. I know that most people will be able to "prove me wrong"
and successfully use a Kolb for their first solo plane. But I know three that
have failed. They totaled their planes (lost a lot of money) and sustained
injuries that will affect them for the rest of their lives. If you go that
route, just be aware of what you stand to lose.
Also, about your runway: It sounds to me like it would be adequate for a
Kolb, but not for a lot time pilot. So be careful about trying to "save money"
by using your own runway before your skill level is up to it.
Good luck!
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
snip...
> First of all I fully
> intend to buy a ultralight aircraft. My experience level is limited to what
> I have read in magazines and about 2 hours(three flights) in a Quicksilver
> MXL 11 Sport(absolutely thrilling even though I wasn't in a Kolb). I would
> like anybody's imput on what plane to start with keeping in mind that I want
> to build my on Firestar. I will have to get instruction in Quicksilver or
> M-squared as I live about two miles from South Ms Ultralight. I have a good
> understanding of the basics of airplanes and have built and flown many radio
> controlled models. Secondly, I have an airstrip that is 60 feet wide and
> 1,000 feet long with small pine trees on the border of each side. Is this
> sufficient for a U/L aircraft.
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Engines and painting |
I stumbled across this web page for a company providing kits for Geo
engines. It looks like raven still is way ahead of them in progress,
but if you wont be needing an engine for a little while, it might be
interesting to see how well this engine works. http://www.b2engines.com/
I have one thing to say about painting, powder coat, powder coat, powder
coat (ok so that's 3). I am at about hour 20 on painting the wings, all
the surfaces and the steel parts and it has become apparent that my
MKIII will never be a show plane. I will be very happy when my painting
experience is over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
On Thu, 18 Mar 1999 Kenmead(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi All;
> I have a question, how large a three blade prop would it take to be as
> efficient as a 66 inch two blade? Is there some kind of ratio you go by
> besides weight?
> Kent
It is unlikely that a 3-blade can be made as efficient as a 2-blade. In
fact, assuming the airfoil is already the best possible, a 3-blade will
always have more wetted area, therefore more drag, and always have one
more tip with tip losses.
All this prop discussion has peaked my interest (again), and so I talked
to a aerodynamics professor in our department about it. (I work in
the department of Mechanical and Aeronautical Engineering at UC Davis.)
He has a prop optimizing solver -- using Excel no less! He said he'd
clean it up a bit give me a copy to play with. I'm looking forward
to this. I also asked him about the rule of thumb I stated for optimum
tip speed for best efficiency. He said it was more like Mach 0.9 than
the .75 I had mentioned, but that noise considerations kept most designs
running slower.
Hey! Today's the 4th birthday of my FS!! :) 4 years since 1st flight.
I'm finishing up annual inspection items, looking forward to some flying
this weekend.
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> Hey! Today's the 4th birthday of my FS!! :) 4 years since 1st flight.
> I'm finishing up annual inspection items, looking forward to some flying
> this weekend.
>
> -Ben Ransom
Congratulations Ben:
Keep it flying!!!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, Richard Pike wrote:
> Saw some interest in hangars tonight, different questions. One of our local
> EAA guys designed a hangar that is very simple, and very strong. I built
> E-mail me off list at rpike(at)preferred.com, and if there is enough interest,
> and when I get time, I will draw up some plans and send them out for costs.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Hi Richard,
I'm interested, and mostly just in the general information, such as:
- wood frame?
- siding material -- use of bargains such as finding old metal siding?
- size - enf to leave wings up?
- how much more $ and effort to make big enf for 2 planes
If you can just throw an answer on these before going to the trouble of
drawing plans, i'd be interested and others probably would too.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Thu, 18 Mar 1999, David Bruner wrote:
> What's an Amtech Buddy Twin?
...see previous post ...Subject was "New 4-Stroke intro at S&F" on Mar. 14th
> BTW, Ben, you did this to me! I've yet to recover from the pics on your web
> site. I think you deserve an entirely new kind of lawsuit - for creating an
> irresistable urge for aerial joy and happiness. And since this suit is
> bassackwards, I owe you a debt of gratitude. Anyone who hasn't seen em be
> forewarned.
Thanks for the compliment... and to you too John Cooley. It's easy to
get a good fun web page when you do the fun kind of flying permitted
by a great little airplane. And yes, as most here know, the adventures
are even better than the pictures. :))
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
Just my two cents worth, but you may find it beneficial. I spent a year and
a half building my Firestar II, then I went to the Kolb factory (a 3 hour
drive) and got 12 hours of instruction from Dan in the factory Mk. III. I had
no previous flying experience. Dan was very professional and patient. That was
almost three years ago.My point is, that with the right preparation, you
should certainly be able to fly the Firestar. The manual provides many
worthwhile suggestions such as making the first flights on VERY calm days and
flying with as few spectators as possible.Best of luck! Rick Klebon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
Hey John...
I did my taxi tests last May and soloed my Kolb Mk2 in June. I have a 3500ft
x200ft wide strip to operate from and I can tell you, I used every bit of it
in those initial taxi tests and crow hops. I think you would be much more
comfortable at a longer (and wider) strip to begin with. Later...when you can
place the airplane where you want it on landing, your 1000 foot might be
enough runway for you but if it were me, I'd replant the pines away from the
runway to give you a wider path. Also...those pines are going to cause you
some turbulence on days where there is a crosswind component.
I can highly recommend that you buy a Firestar and build it but like the other
guys here, I think you should have quite a bit more time under your belt
before you decide to fly it....possibly even some tail dragger time although
the Kolb doesn't really exibit the ground looping tendencies of most
taildraggers. Good Luck.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
>
>Hi Gang:
>
> Thanks to Ben, Merle, Richard, John T., future responders and last but
>not least "The Possum" for responding to my inquiry. Nice picture too of a
>flying Possum. Sounds like a Firestar is a little hot for a
>beginner.......Sob-Sob..
Most incidents of collision with a planet are more the result of the
pilot skill rather than design of the aircraft. Allmost all comments about
crashes testing a new aircraft has more to do with pilot skill rather than
something wrong with the aircraft. Do get training. Remember what you were
taught. Don't show off, nobody really cares how daring you are. Get proper
training in a MK111 and you should be ok. Training is the important thing
here so let me say it again. Get proper training in a MK111 and you should
be ok. You can't get to much dual time in a 2 seat Kolb. It only took about
10 hrs training for a guy to let this newbie take a Cessna up by myself
If you choose to use your runway remember that the trees will be less
thasn 15 ft off a wing tip in perfect conditions. They will also add
turbulence when landing or taking off. A lot of newbies to aviation think
trees beside the runway are ideal when in fact the opposite is true. Real
pilots know that one day one of those trees will reach out and eat you. If
you can cut the trees down do it.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotory Engine |
>Still haven't heard about my "rebuilt 15 hrs ago" 503 - hoping for the best.
>The cylinders looked good but the rings were frozen and worn and there was a
>lot of blow-by. How could this be? Weird motors that I'm going to have to
>come to some kind of understanding with.
First thing you have to understand is that whoever sold you the engine
lied or didn't know how to rebuild an engine
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PaulSpadin(at)aol.com |
jtsexton(at)yahoo.com, VZysko(at)compuserve.com, lclem(at)erols.com,
talisman(at)friend.ly.net, brookepenn(at)juno.com, breich(at)erols.com,
Tim_Hrib(at)BCBSMD.COM, robert_donato(at)icpmech.navy.mil
I must sell my firestar due to a very serious illness..
Firestar 2 with single seat. 45hrs TT since new. 503DCDI, full panel,
BRS 750 parachute,brakes , yellow w/green trim. King KX99 radio Garmin 55
nav.
execellent aircraft in good condition $9500 OBO.
call Mike Waters @ 717-642-6253 Fairfield Pa. Gliderport....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
JOHN M. COOLEY wrote:
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Sounds like a Firestar is a little hot for a beginner.......Sob-Sob.
> For the record that's the same info I got from Mike
Hey John,
Allow me to enter my experiences on this subject.
For ultra-lite training, I used the MXII Spam-can. It is a 3 axis
plane, with this difference: The dihedral is so great, the ailerons
loose their effect.
I found that if you can fly the MXII, the Kolb will fly so much easier
you may not believe it.. If you really wish a Firestar ( a very good
choice), you will be pleased after flying the MX. The only thing you
may need help with will be the ground handling of the tail-wheel which
is also easy.
It is my opinion, you will never regret getting the handling
charactoristics of a Kolb.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
Amen, brother........still sitting here in sick anticipation.
Big Lar.
----------
> From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
> To: 'Kolb builders'
> Subject: Kolb-List: Engines and painting
> Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 7:49 AM
> I have one thing to say about painting, powder coat, powder coat, powder
> coat (ok so that's 3). I am at about hour 20 on painting the wings, all
> the surfaces and the steel parts and it has become apparent that my
> MKIII will never be a show plane. I will be very happy when my painting
> experience is over.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where do they get their tails? |
Possum Tails ?? Naw.......peeple might think we was jest some kinda big
rats. In serious-ness though, one day I intend to make the X/C trip
back there to meet those guys. Having that much fun seems almost indecent.
I'm sure that some one's either going to start taxing them, or make them
illegal one day. Big Lar.
----------
> From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: where do they get their tails?
> Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 5:30 AM
>
>
> In a message dated 3/18/99 7:44:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> << possums(at)mindspring.com (Possum)
> To: GeoR38(at)aol.com
>
> File: poss jacket.jpg (54872 bytes) >>
>
> I must have one of these jackets or sweater or whatever it is
> .......gottalotarespect for the possums if the stories are even close to
being
> true....besides you folks talk funny and that's neat too.....after
all...one
> of my favorite expressions is " shoot man...Hey!!" I will be a the Kolb
tent
> or trailer on Thursday of S & F and could buy one there or could get it
before
> hand if you tell me how but would like to wear it there at some
> point!!.....GeoR38
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
from: Mail Delivery Subsystem
| Subject: | Mail Delivery Problem |
Sorry kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com. Your mail to jballen96 could not be delivered
because jballen96 is not accepting mail with attachments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Props: number of blades |
Kenmead(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi All;
> I have a question, how large a three blade prop would it take to be as
> efficient as a 66 inch two blade? Is there some kind of ratio you go by
> besides weight?
> Kent
>
>
You didn't think it was that easy did you?
Mother Nature requires that the answer be a point on a curve.
Actually several curves that intersect. The absolute optimum
configuration will be correct for one airspeed, so what is it? Also it
will vary with horsepower. There were some articles in Ultralight
flying some months ago that showed the nature of the beast and just how
many factors you have to take into account.
It AINT SIMPLE. Probably best to copy someone who happens to be
delighted with his setup.
Good luck,
Woody (weaver)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Airworthiness certificate |
Hi Kolbers
Yesterday reached
a milestone, the FAA
certified my 912 powered mark 111 for phase one flight. The
certification took about 3 hours, inspected by a DAR [designated
airworthiness representative]. He was most interested in the
documentation I provided in the form of pictures [over 200] and a daily
logbook of the building process to ensure that the work was done by me.
A question had been asked by someone on the kolb-list about carb heat,
he never mentioned anything about it and I never asked so it may not be
required. For me the inspection was a lot of worry over nothing.
Anyone who is building their plane to be registered if you have the
proper paper work and building documentation and a soundly built plane,
an FAA inspection should not a problem.
Bob
Berrie N350RB
Higganum,
Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mail Delivery Problem |
Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:
>
>
> Sorry kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com. Your mail to jballen96 could not be delivered
because jballen96 is not accepting mail with attachments
>
Matt:
I have received several of these identical msgs. Don't
think I should be getting them. I have not sent any mail to
jballen96.
Thanks,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar trailering |
Larry and gang,
I trailer my FS backwards behind a fullsize pick-up with tall fiberglass
cap, which works as a windbreak for the tail. I drive 45 mph when I can and
55 mph if I have to.
HERE WE GO , I pull the aircraft up the 8ft. planks onto the trailer by
man power, I put a boat wench on the trailer but never use it. I have
tracks and bumper blocks that position the FS wheels right where I want
them. The fuselage tube rests in a carpet lined cradle 14" long just in
front of the tail assembly.
Once on the trailer I hold it there in this manor. I welded vise grips
to,
two ton hydralic jacks, had to weld up a little drop hitch type thing
because jacks were too tall. The jacks are bolted to the trailer, with the
aircraft in position, I clamp the inboard axel stubs into the vise grips.
Three pumps on the jack handle and the cabin area of the FS is LOCKED and
LIFTED off those precious wheel bearings. ( I tryed turn buckles on the
axel stubs but that really put torque on the wheel assembly, so I canned
that idea and designed the jack system.)
I keep the tail held down with a turn buckle and spring between the
trailer and tail wheel. The wings and tail are covered with a tarp I made
from a soft fabric I bought at Wal Mart, denim I think. This tarp is held
to the trailer with bungees. It not only protects the aircraft while
trailering but also in the pole barn at home. And would prevent an
accidental opening of the wings while rolling down the highway.
If you open trailer with a three blade prop, you MUST put foam padding
around the blade that remains betweem the wings. As the wind trys to turn
the prop and does nasty things to the lower surface of the wings. In fact I
have foam padding every place that two parts of the airplane touch each other.
Hope this helps,
Lanny Fetterman ASC # A10LRF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | (Fwd) "Boycott JPI" flyer available |
I'm making up the flyer for an EAA "Hanger Session" at my place. I
took the opportunity to make a one page summary of JPI's outlandish
behavior, and printed that on the back of the flyer. This will, I hope,
help spread the word about JPI.
The "Boycott JPI" portion of the flyer is available for anybody who
wants to use it (airshows, meetings, fly ins, bulletin boards, etc). You
can download a copy from my web site. Simply go to
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a and click on any of the numerous
"Boycott JPI" links. Scroll to the bottom of the "Boycott JPI" page for
links to the flyer download (Word 97 and Rich Text Format are both
available).
Thanks,
Tim "Boycott JPI" Lewis
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023, engine completed and tested
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer questions from a Kolb wannabe |
john jung, i agree with your posting about kolbs as first solo aircraft.
i flew GA for ( 12 ) years before i stared flying ultralights. i still thought
it wise to take some lessons in an ultralight trainer even though i was already
experienced as a pilot. i took lessons in both a kolb twinstar and quicksilver
trainers. the quick was much easier to fly and much more forgiving of mistakes.
i own a firestar but i recamend that anyone new to this sport get lessons in a
quick first, they're much easier to learn to fly on
................................. tim
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/19/99 12:46:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu writes:
<< If you can just throw an answer on these before going to the trouble of
drawing plans, i'd be interested and others probably would too.
-Ben Ransom
At the risk of sounding like a metoer....me too..............GeoR38
The Kolb-List is sponsored by >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I sent this over to the ol' Possum. Hope the rest of you guys enjoy it also.
( The server would not accept this the first time I mailed this because it
had an attachment. If you would like to see the photo that goes with the
story please email me)
This is a Kolb Flyer in an extreme nose down attitude. Notice the wheels
half exposed to air and half in clay. This was one of my first really scary
flying experiences. Nothing has compared to it since and was one of the 2
times I have really kissed my ass goodbye.
I only had a few hours in the flyer back in 81. Did all the test flying
myself because this was the only Ultralight in Ontario at the time so there
was really no one I could have asked. Did a lot of taxiing and could put
that little sucker anywhere I wanted before I took it up for the first time
and it didn't even have a tail wheel. It was powered by 2 chrysler 850
engines. Not good engines but the best there were at the time. Problem
started one day when one engine did not seem to be giving me full power. I
was over tree top level so I decided to turn around land and check it out.
There were 2 wooded areas at the end of the runway And I was interested in
keeping between them and not hitting a tree. Unfortunately I forgot the old
saying about keeping an Eye on airspeed. As best I can figure out as I was
turning I let the airspeed drop and I stalled in the turn. This caused the
nose to drop straight down. First instinct was to pull back on the stick.
Wrong move. As I was probably only 75 feet up I had no chance to second
guess. I did have time to remember John Chotia of Weedhopper doing the same
thing 2 weeks earlier and not being alive now and I didn't figure my luck to
be any better. Only thing I could think of doing was keep my eyes open and
watch the end come. After the thud I heard the engine running and reached
down to turn off the switch but the switch was now positioned over by my
ear. I got up took off my helmet which I had worn for the first time and sat
on it while I got my bearings and contemplated my existence. The seat belt
was almost torn in half at impact. The owner of the strip helped me pull
the wings and put it in the hanger. I drove to a hospital for x rays and
other than having my neck slowly bend over to the right and stay that way
for a couple weeks I escaped injury. I ordered parts for a rebuild that
night and flew it again. I now have a preoccupation with airspeed as I fly.
So to avoid what I did remember if you are ever in a tight spot always keep
your airspeed up. It is your friend. You cannot extend your glide by pulling
back on the stick. Stall speed increases in a turn so you must compensate
for it. If not mean old Mr.Gravity will pay you a visit.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Good story Woody. You're very lucky. Please send the photo. Thanks.
Big Lar.
----------
> From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: oops
> Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 11:11 AM
>
>
> I sent this over to the ol' Possum. Hope the rest of you guys enjoy it
also.
>
> ( The server would not accept this the first time I mailed this because
it
> had an attachment. If you would like to see the photo that goes with the
> story please email me)
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
>
> interest value - they tell me I'll need about 10+ gal. of paint to do the
> full Stits process. A high solid product like paint has to weigh - what ??
> - 8 - 10 lb./gallon ?? That's a lot of weight, but they tell me that so
> I'm amazed. Big Lar.
Larry,
I think 10 gal of paint is way too much. I did my FS in about 2 gal if
I remember right. I woulda/shoulda (and still someday will) used more
paint on the wings, so just a tad more might be good. Also, maybe
HPLV gun would keep the quantity down too. I used no polyspray and
my 2 coats of polybrush was completed well within the amount in
the kit -- maybe about a gallon?.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
Guys:
I know most of you took training before flying, but for those wannabes
out there, there are 5 rules of flying ultralights that will save your
life.
1) Always take off, and land, into the wind.
2) Always maintain thy airspeed lest the ground come up and spite thee!
3) Elevator controls airspeed.
4) Never fly in windy or gusty conditions.
5) Never let anyone else fly your airplane. (This seems to be the most
broken one as many like to show off their airplane to other pilots.)
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cardinal Rules |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Roger good set of rules, but I violate rules #4 and #5 for these reasons:
#4 Flying under windy and gusty conditions is determined by the amount of
time in the plane. The higher the wind, the more skill required. I have
flown in wind conditions that ground a few GA pilots. If you do not fly
in strong winds occasionally, what are you going to do when the winds
pickup someday when you are out flying? Your skills then, may not be a
match for the conditions and you will end up wrecking your Kolb. If you
fly often (and you should to keep your skill level high), that day will
come. Be prepared for it.
#5 My flying buddy and I have exchanged our Original FireStars twice
before only because he has as much experience as I do in this type.
Anyone else, forget it.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>Guys:
>
>I know most of you took training before flying, but for those wannabes
>out there, there are 5 rules of flying ultralights that will save your
>life.
>
>1) Always take off, and land, into the wind.
>
>2) Always maintain thy airspeed lest the ground come up and spite
>thee!
>
>3) Elevator controls airspeed.
>
>4) Never fly in windy or gusty conditions.
>
>5) Never let anyone else fly your airplane. (This seems to be the most
>broken one as many like to show off their airplane to other pilots.)
>
>Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
Tim and gang,
I tried a paint roller, worked great for about three minutes, then all
the
fuzzies started to fall out into the paint, Back to the drawing board !
Lan, ASC Aircraft I.D. # A10LRF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cardinal Rules |
>
>Guys:
>
>I know most of you took training before flying, but for those wannabes
>out there, there are 5 rules of flying ultralights that will save your
>life.
>
>1) Always take off, and land, into the wind.
>
>2) Always maintain thy airspeed lest the ground come up and spite thee!
>
>3) Elevator controls airspeed.
>
>4) Never fly in windy or gusty conditions.
>
>5) Never let anyone else fly your airplane. (This seems to be the most
>broken one as many like to show off their airplane to other pilots.)
>
>Roger
>
Never show off how good a pilot you are by doing bold and stupid things.
If you don't crash pilots watching your performance will not respect you,
spectators will not want to fly with you, No one will hero worship you or
give you celebrity status for showing off. You will give a black mark
against sport aviation
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint roller |
I think Tim was talking about the high density foam rollers. They're
supposed to be impervious to about everything. Any one tried one of those
?? Can we guess at your comments when you saw all the fuzzies in your
nice new paint ?? Big Lar.
----------
> From: Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Paint roller
> Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 4:21 PM
>
>
>
> Tim and gang,
>
> I tried a paint roller, worked great for about three minutes,
then all the
> fuzzies started to fall out into the paint, Back to the drawing board !
>
> Lan, ASC Aircraft I.D. # A10LRF
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
In a message dated 3/19/99 6:04:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
richard.wood(at)usa.net writes:
<< They will also add
turbulence when landing or taking off. A lot of newbies to aviation think
trees beside the runway are ideal when in fact the opposite is true. Real
pilots know that one day one of those trees will reach out and eat you. If
you can cut the trees down do it.
Woody >>
especially in cross winds as the tops of the trees cause the wind to roll or
tumble down..right where your closest wing tip is and guess where it wants to
go...down too ...hopefully not clear to the ground like ALMOST happened to me
on a very early learning experience landing...not in my present Kolb, but in
my previous pterodactyl....what an eyebrow raiser that was... This experience
alone taught me to land fast to keep the authority of control in the cockpit
instead of other random places!!.........Unfortunately I always use up a
buncha runway....but have Never experienced a ground loop or similar non
planned activity..........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Your point was very well taken on the need for a simple checklist. In some
rental planes, the checklist - if any - is usually a disgrace, and I
sometimes found myself sort of semi-skipping some steps. Led to me taking
off one day at Borrego Springs ( L08 ) on left mag, instead of both - and
yes, there is a definite power increase with both. Wasn't dangerous - that
time - and no one knew but me, but it makes you think. So what I did was
go into Word Perfect and make up a list from the POH: before engine start
in a column on the left, and before take-off in the center. Trimmed it,
folded in 1/2, and had a 2 sided, 1/2 width page. Took it to Kinko's to be
laminated, and found that one sheet of plastic will take 4 copies. Such a
deal - now I have spares. These are for Cessna 172, but would apply to
many aircraft. If any one would like a copy, I could e-mail it to you
direct.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lesson learned |
In a message dated 3/20/99 10:24:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
richard.wood(at)usa.net writes:
<< ere is a fly club called the North Coast Lite flyers in Ravenna, Ohio.
>They had their annual fly-in competition in August and I had competed
>before, and taken ribbons for my efforts. There was a cross country
>event where you figure out your time and fuel burn estimate, and closest
>to his estimate won. Well, not being all that familiar with the
>territory up there I got lost. While looking for a place to land to get
>my "bearings" I found a graveyard (fitting place huh?) that had at
>least 1000 feet of beautiful grass to land in. I did. But, having a
>little float problem that leaked gas on the left seat sometimes when the
>plane sat for awhile, I reached up and shut off the gas petcock. I
>climbed out and walked to the road and flagged down the first car I saw.
>I then got my bearings, climbed back in the ol' 2 seater, and away I
>went. Taxied down, no runup, hit the throttle and climb I did. To about
>75 feet. The engine quit, and I immediately knew why! Put the nose down,
>but couldn't get enough airspeed to flair. I made a nice big rut with
>the nose wheel. Bent both nose tubes, and broke the one nose tube
>clevice (sp) at the downtube. Bent the kingpost and downtubes but not
>bad. I got out with a sore rump! With broken ego and plane, I again
>flagged down a car, got back to the airstrip, got another clevice, and
>tools and went back to my broken machine. Patched it up, turned on the
>gas this time and flew it home, about 50 miles away. This was nothing
>but a dumb mistake and I lived to tell about it. >>
I live near that Liberty Airpark you are talkin about here and never heard
about your dilema. where did you go down?...what cemetary and in what
direction from Liberty?...... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer/Kolb wannabe |
Your playing both edges, short runway and trees that close. You better be
dam good all and every time. You will get effects from those trees. Buy a
chain saw first if you get the message. I was flying our Citabria once
time going into a 5000 ft sod strip. When I hit the tree line it darn near
rolled me over. I flown in that field years ago when I was a new pilot,
but never ever experienced anything like that. Conditions were just right.
If I didn't have a little experience and room, it would have been ugly.
Hadn't forgotten that trip back home.
Jerry
>
>>
>>Hi Gang:
>>
>> Thanks to Ben, Merle, Richard, John T., future responders and last but
>>not least "The Possum" for responding to my inquiry. Nice picture too of a
>>flying Possum. Sounds like a Firestar is a little hot for a
>>beginner.......Sob-Sob..
>
>
> Most incidents of collision with a planet are more the result of the
>pilot skill rather than design of the aircraft. Allmost all comments about
>crashes testing a new aircraft has more to do with pilot skill rather than
>something wrong with the aircraft. Do get training. Remember what you were
>taught. Don't show off, nobody really cares how daring you are. Get proper
>training in a MK111 and you should be ok. Training is the important thing
>here so let me say it again. Get proper training in a MK111 and you should
>be ok. You can't get to much dual time in a 2 seat Kolb. It only took about
>10 hrs training for a guy to let this newbie take a Cessna up by myself
> If you choose to use your runway remember that the trees will be less
>thasn 15 ft off a wing tip in perfect conditions. They will also add
>turbulence when landing or taking off. A lot of newbies to aviation think
>trees beside the runway are ideal when in fact the opposite is true. Real
>pilots know that one day one of those trees will reach out and eat you. If
>you can cut the trees down do it.
>
>
> Woody
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
Yah, sounds like a lot to me, too. That's why I'm looking for input.
I've never done this before, and I'm a little ( ?? ) uneasy. Besides, at
$70.00 odd bucks a gallon, I'd hate to have a bunch of it left over. I do
have to keep in mind though, that I need 3 coats of silver on top, and
probably 2 under the wings and tail, a coat of white, ( I'm told ) and 2 (
?? ) coats of color. How much paint does it take per coat ?? How many
coats does it really need ?? I'm trying hard to keep it light, but then
too, I'd purely hate to see it disintegrate in 3 yrs. in this desert sun,
so I'm stuck with a trade off. Big Lar.
----------
> From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engines and painting
> Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 11:47 PM
>
>
> Gee Big Lar, you painting a 747. 10 gallon sounds like a lot. I think
we
> used about 3 gallon total of White and Red (trim) on the FireFly.
Remember
> cover it don't drown it. Keep it light!!!!
> Jerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint roller |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Lanny, I rolled and brushed the Polytone on mine and it looks great after
12 years. You have to find the right type of roller that will stand up to
the paint. The advantages to rolling and brushing are:
o no overspray
o better *gloss* effect from the polytone
o cheaper if you are on a budget (don't have to buy the sprayer)
o it's easier to make a repair later on without having to bring out the
sprayer
o a fabric repair will blend in better than a sprayed job
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>
> Tim and gang,
>
> I tried a paint roller, worked great for about three minutes,
>then all the
>fuzzies started to fall out into the paint, Back to the drawing board
>!
>
> Lan, ASC Aircraft I.D. # A10LRF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
Thought I would add my .02 worth. For years I have been painting the
bottom of my sailboat with a foam roller that is made by "West System". It
is specifically designed for use with there brand of 2 part epoxy. I have
tried just about every brand of foam roller, but none last more than a few
min. ..... on a side note, 4 years ago my friend and I painted both of our
sailboats, from the water line on up, we used a 2 part polyurethane similar
to Imron ---very nasty stuff if sprayed on, and can kill you if you don't
use the proper protection---- We used foam rollers and "tipped" the paint
with a badger hair brush as soon as it was applied. ""You cannot tell that
it was not sprayed on"", it is a very beautiful finish and is supposed to be
a "no wax finish for twenty years" Looks to me like this type of application
may be used for the Stits type of process...............I have no experience
with A/C paint, but thought the info might be useful to someone.
PS. I sold the sailboat and I'm in the process of buying a Kolb.---Dennis in
MD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm getting close to the delivery time for my Mk lll. It suffered a very
hard landing (crash?). Is there anything like a parts catalog for these
airships or do we have to call the factory each time and describe the part
we're looking for.
I called the factory to order some parts, but since the Kolb isn't here yet
I can't make up a complete list . I've got the blueprints, construction
manual and one with a yellow cover that shows control linkages and other
stuff but no IPC.
I also have the engine manual for the Hirth 2706, but it too lacks an
illustrated parts catalog. It will have a Warp Drive 3 blade prop with one
blade damaged. Is there a parts catalog or some kind of manual for that?
Anybody got spare parts taking up space in their garages?
I'm in San Antonio, Texas. I've only seen one other Kolb in town and it's
the short wing true ultralight. Last time I saw it was about 3 or 4 month's
ago with a FOR SALE sign on it. Any other Kolber's in or near San Antonio?
Delivery will be next Friday. I keep thinking about it at night before I
doze off and it makes it hard to go to sleep. I'm really excited to be a
+ACI-soon to be+ACI- Kolb owner. It will take a lot of work to get it flying again.
I'll be asking you experienced guys for your advice and support along the
way. There is obviously a lot of expertise on this list. I've already
received some answers to some questions and I really appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Bil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
>
>Yah, sounds like a lot to me, too. That's why I'm looking for input.
>I've never done this before, and I'm a little ( ?? ) uneasy. Besides, at
>$70.00 odd bucks a gallon, I'd hate to have a bunch of it left over. I do
>have to keep in mind though, that I need 3 coats of silver on top, and
>probably 2 under the wings and tail, a coat of white, ( I'm told ) and 2 (
>?? ) coats of color. How much paint does it take per coat ?? How many
>coats does it really need ?? I'm trying hard to keep it light, but then
>too, I'd purely hate to see it disintegrate in 3 yrs. in this desert sun,
>so I'm stuck with a trade off. Big Lar.
The crude country hick is kicking in again. I painted a plane with house
paint and let it sit in the sun for 8 yrs. When I finally scrapped the
plane the fabric was still strong and stuck onto the airframe real well. 3
coats of silver on top and 2 on bottom seem excessive to me (how much sun
protection does the underside need anyway?). I used a gallon of silver as a
weave filler and a gallon of red for colour coat. There is a gallon of pink
between them but that was the paint companies fault and is a whole different
story. If doing it agaiin I would skip the silver (and the pink). You can
use logic and say your aircraft will be stored 95% of its life out of the
sun or Woody protected his with only house paint and it was still airworthy
after 8 years exposed to the weather 100% of the time. Or just say you don't
think you really need to spend that extra 70 bucks. On another list it was
said that a liter of paint ( evaporative ) added only a pound to the weight.
I have heard of a few people doing an excellent job rolling on ordinary
polyurethane paint.
Dick (the crude country hick) Wood
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
How About It?
Does anyone know how much weight would be added by applying 2 coats of
polytone? --- Richard S
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> >
> > interest value - they tell me I'll need about 10+ gal. of paint to do the
> > full Stits process. A high solid product like paint has to weigh - what ??
> > - 8 - 10 lb./gallon ?? That's a lot of weight, but they tell me that so
> > I'm amazed. Big Lar.
>
> Larry,
> I think 10 gal of paint is way too much. I did my FS in about 2 gal if
> I remember right. I woulda/shoulda (and still someday will) used more
> paint on the wings, so just a tad more might be good. Also, maybe
> HPLV gun would keep the quantity down too. I used no polyspray and
> my 2 coats of polybrush was completed well within the amount in
> the kit -- maybe about a gallon?.
>
> -Ben Ransom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JBallen96(at)aol.com |
I am considering building a firefly in the near future. I am a private pilot
with tail dragger experience and USUA ultralight pilot. I built a TEAM
minimax in 1990 and flew it until I sold it in 1992. I also have flown the
maxair drifter, RANS S-12 and the Cappella. I also owned a 1945 Taylorcraft
BCD-12 for a couple of years.
The Firefly is a legal ultralight with the performance I am looking for based
on the factory info. Do any of you have any information that would help me
make a decision on purchasing a kit from Kolb?
Questions that come to mind are... Does the factory provide a blank instrument
panel or is it part of the nosefairing? What about brakes, can brakes be
mounted without going over the wieght limit? Is there a good homebuilt or
factory trailer design for transportation and storage that is reasonably
priced?
I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks
Jim
Virginia Beach, Va.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer questions from a Kolb wannabe |
i own a firestar but i recamend that anyone new to this
sport get lessons in a
> quick first, they're much easier to learn to fly on
> ................................. tim
>
>
TIm and Kolb Gang:
I gotta a question. Why learn to fly two airplanes when you
can learn to fly a Kolb first???
I have never flown a Quicksilver or any other ultralight
except Burt Howland's "Honey Bee." So I can not compare the
degree of difficulty of flying the Quick and the Kolb. To
me, all Kolb airplanes fly the same with maybe a few minute
differences between models, but basically the same. I
should emphasize "basic." If the Quick is that much easier
to fly than a Kolb, then I will take Ernie, my faithful
Bassett Hound, to the airport and get him some lessons in
the Quick. Ernie ain't too swift, but he ain't too dumb
either. Doesn't have a job, open doors, pay bills, or fix
his own supper. Ernie loves Sun and Fun and if he survives
till April, he will be there too. He is getting elderly
like his "old man."
Seriously, if it was me, I would learn to fly Kolbs and
forget all the others. Kolbs are easy airplanes to fly,
forgiving, efficient, responsive little airplanes. If the
Army can teach me to fly a helicopter as my first aircraft,
then you guys can learn to fly a Kolb as your first
aircraft. Why clutter up your poor ole brain box with
somebody else's lesser design???
Now I'll wait in my foxhole for the Quicksilver advocates to
fire on me. ;-) hehehe
john h (just now returned from a 400 mile plus round trip
flight to St Elmo, Alabama, just south of Mobile on the
Gulf. Had a good time, good flyin, free food, lots of
southern hospitality, lot of airplanes and airplane talk.
Had a headwind both ways. Beautiful yesterday (t-shirt
weather). Departed for home at 0800, 15 gusting to 25 mph
out of the NW. Miss P'fer got me home in minimum time, in
one piece even though it was hovering below and just a hair
above 40F in the cockpit. Gonna get me a heater one of
these days. ;-))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Newcomer questions from a Kolb wannabe |
ou are a luck g
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: parts catalog |
Bil
I have a M/3 and I am down here around Beaumont , east of Houston I know
of 5 M / 3 between you and I , hope all your building goes well it may
take a while but it is well worth it.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>I'm getting close to the delivery time for my Mk lll. It suffered a
>very
>hard landing (crash?). Is there anything like a parts catalog for
>these
>airships or do we have to call the factory each time and describe the
>part
>we're looking for.
>
>I called the factory to order some parts, but since the Kolb isn't
>here yet
>I can't make up a complete list . I've got the blueprints,
>construction
>manual and one with a yellow cover that shows control linkages and
>other
>stuff but no IPC.
>
>I also have the engine manual for the Hirth 2706, but it too lacks an
>illustrated parts catalog. It will have a Warp Drive 3 blade prop
>with one
>blade damaged. Is there a parts catalog or some kind of manual for
>that?
>
>Anybody got spare parts taking up space in their garages?
>
>I'm in San Antonio, Texas. I've only seen one other Kolb in town and
>it's
>the short wing true ultralight. Last time I saw it was about 3 or 4
>month's
>ago with a FOR SALE sign on it. Any other Kolber's in or near San
>Antonio?
>
>Delivery will be next Friday. I keep thinking about it at night
>before I
>doze off and it makes it hard to go to sleep. I'm really excited to
>be a
>+ACI-soon to be+ACI- Kolb owner. It will take a lot of work to get it
>flying again.
>I'll be asking you experienced guys for your advice and support along
>the
>way. There is obviously a lot of expertise on this list. I've
>already
>received some answers to some questions and I really appreciate the
>help.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reynolds" <rfreynol(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of attack indicators. |
I could not disagree more. The AOA idicator would be a great use to a
ultralight/light plane pilot. The wing always stalls at the same AOA,
regardless of wing loading due to changes in the bank angle or gross weight.
You don't have to remember a different set of airspeeds depending on bank
angle or if you are caring a passenger, just keep the AOA indicator in the
green and you won't stall.
There was an article in Kitplanes a few months ago on building your own.
They called it the Bacon Saver. It's a very useful device, even if you are
just flying a Kolb and not a F-4.
-Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Angle of attack indicators.
>IMO, AAI indicators would have a very limited use in an ultralight or
>similar light aircraft. Angle of attack indicators become quite usefull in
>aircraft that weight may vary by a great percentage from takeoff to
>landing. An example might be a jet fighter that might have a takeoff
>weight of 35,000# and have a landing weight of 20,000#. As you can see,
>the landing speed of the aircraft would vary quite a bit if it had to land
>right after takeoff or later when fuel and ordnance is almost all expended.
> Regardless of the weight, the AAI will allow the pilot to achieve the
>correct landing/maneuvering speed.
>
>Navy fighters rely heavily on the AAI; especially when landing aboard a
>carrier where landing speed is quite critical. The instrument becomes less
>useful for most (if not all) piston powered light GA aircraft (including
>ultralights) whose weight on landing only varies a few percent. The
>instrument can't hurt you, but I think that there are other much more
>useful instruments to play with. :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of attack indicators. |
>I could not disagree more. The AOA idicator would be a great use to a
>ultralight/light plane pilot. The wing always stalls at the same AOA,
>regardless of wing loading due to changes in the bank angle or gross weight.
>You don't have to remember a different set of airspeeds depending on bank
>angle or if you are caring a passenger, just keep the AOA indicator in the
>green and you won't stall.
> -Rob
Hey Guys:
I 've done a little of all types of flying in all the Kolbs and have not
found a use for an Angle of Attack Meter. I have only been able to get
into one accelerated stall in a Kolb and that was the factory MK III
carrying a healthy male passenger. Even then the stall was only nudged,
i.e. nibbled. When I flew passengers at Sun and Fun, in past years, if
the passenger seemed to be a prospective buyer and/or a genuinely
interested person, I gave a more detailed indepth demonstration and an
attempt to do an accelerated stall.
I have found that if I trust my airspeed indicator and carry about 10 mph
over stall I don't have to worry about stalling a Kolb. We ain't talking
about 152's, Steermans, C-130's, or F-16's. We are talking about Kolbs,
including the little stubby wing Sling Shot (all 22 feet of it).
If you enjoy flying right on the stall on approaches you will eventually
bust your buns. If the stall comes at 20 or 30 feet you will be extremely
lucky to recover if you aren't super reactive to the warning signs. I
ain't that quick any more.
Just my humble opinion based on what I have learned over the years enjoying
these Kolbs.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
When I did my MKIII, I wanted a paint job that would be by the book. The
Stits Book.
Here it what it takes to do a MKIII that way:
One 3 1/2 gal pail of Poly Brush
One 3 1/2 gal pail of Poly Spray
Two gallons of silver
Three gallons of Daytona White (cream color) a little left over
One gallon of Lakeland Blue, a little left over
One gallon of Bahama blue, a little left over
3 gallons of Stits reducer
3 quarts of Poly tak
2 gallons of MEK for thinning the Poly Tak, cleaning paint pots, cleaning
brushes, etc
and a quart of Daytona White colored Lacquer for the nose cone, etc.
and yes, it's heavy.
If I had it to do over again, I would have used Randolph instead of Stits.
It's easier to work with.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>>
>>Yah, sounds like a lot to me, too. That's why I'm looking for input.
>>I've never done this before, and I'm a little ( ?? ) uneasy. Besides, at
>>$70.00 odd bucks a gallon, I'd hate to have a bunch of it left over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cardinal Rules |
Roger...
Might want to elaborate on Rule Number 4. I live in Texas and the wind
averages about 11-12 MPH year around. When you're standing on the ground 12
mph feels like a pretty good breeze but if I thought that was windy, I'd never
get to fly.
I'll leave the elaboration to you or others as I am not a flight instructor
and do not want the responsibility.
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repack Second Chantz |
e name and address of a gentleman in Fla. is in the
archives! but what
> about the ROCKET??? I'm sure my shute is fine but the rocket is past due
> also .Any ideas ? thanks Chris
Hi Gang:
Don't quote me, but isn't the operational life of the solid
fuel rocket something like 7 to 10 years??? Just guessing,
but I imagine the igniters for the rocket are samo/samo
percussion caps that have an indefinite shelf life, or at
least 7 to 10 years.
What is BRS (since they seem to be the sole ballistic prcht
provider nowadays) saying the shelf life of their rockets
are? Isn't it 9 years or something like that?
Several people have been injured by some very old ballistic
chutes firing when they were being dismantled, etc. My ole
buddy Chuck Shaughnesy, God rest his soul, had an old, very
old, ballistic chute, can't remember the brand, that had
been submerged under water for quite some time, then sat in
his hanger in the corner on the floor even longer. He test
fired it and it made a lot of noise and extracted an old
mildewed canopy, but it worked.
I guess it is each man's call as to what to do about their
individual systems. All us 2d Chantz folks got caught in a
crack. My rocket is 6 years old. Time to repack my
parachute, next time I take the center section off. I'm
going with my 6 year old rocket for a few more years anyway.
This is my call for myself, not for anyone else. I can't
and will not try and make that kind of decision for anyone
else. You be your own judge in matters of this type.
john h (proud as punch to see the Gray Baron right there in
the middle of this months Ultralight Flying Mag)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
Maybe on subject? In looking at older (pre-Imron) C172's weight and
balance calculations, I note that Cessna said wt of paint was 18# (yes
18#), of course applied all over entire plane---which has a LOT more
surface than (most) any UL. Just some figures to consider. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FIREFLY INFO |
Re: brakes---I operate off concrete, and, unless I'm doing something
wrong (nevir maid a misteak so far) my FF will walk away at a good pace
w/ throttle at 2000---and below, it shakes like a dog after eating sharp
bones. I'd certainly appreciate any ideas, other than chocks, which are
hard to remove for runup rt before TO. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cardinal Rules |
N51SK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Roger...
> Might want to elaborate on Rule Number 4. I live in Texas and the wind
> averages about 11-12 MPH year around. When you're standing on the ground 12
> mph feels like a pretty good breeze but if I thought that was windy, I'd never
> get to fly.
> I'll leave the elaboration to you or others as I am not a flight instructor
> and do not want the responsibility.
>
> Steve Kroll Mk2
>
How true. I stayed in Kansas for awhile and didn't think I get any
flying in there either. Wind seems to blow all the time.
Anytime your in the flatlands, there isn't much to break the wind, and
it blows pretty seady. Steady wind isn't a problem as much as gusty. Too
many good pilots get a little wind under the wing, and yes, your reflex
action has to be precise. If they can practice wing down and opposite
rudder, instead of crabbing, it's a safer way to handle gusty cross wind
landings. But a gusty day can ruin anyones good machine, and maybe them.
My initail cardinal rules are for wannabees, and students. They just
serve to remind us, things we as light plane pilots ought to know
already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JBallen96(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FIREFLY INFO |
Steve,
Thanks for the info.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Friend <lfriend47(at)pol.net> |
Hello guys, ths is my first attempt at communication with this group,
hope I'm doing it right. I have just recieved my first Mk III kit,
and have resisted opening it until I can get my shop a little more
organized. This is my first attempt at building an aircraft, though I
consider myself a fairly advanced woodworker. I have also never flown
in an ultralight type aircraft, but looks like fun. I have been a
pilot for 32 years, and have a Commander 112, which is in a long
process of refurbishment--but that's another story. I am a Family
Practice physician in a small town, and hope I can manage this project
before I get too old to fly. I would be interested in any useful
advise on how to start, any vital tools beyond what the factory
recommends, can the tubing be cut with a miter saw with a carbide
tipped blade? I don't want to tie up the forum with a bunch of
beginner advise, so feel free to email me at "LFriend47(at)pol.net"
Thanks in advance guys--Lee Friend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking Advice |
>
>Hello guys, ths is my first attempt at communication with this group,
>hope I'm doing it right. I have just recieved my first Mk III kit,
>and have resisted opening it until I can get my shop a little more
>organized. I would be interested in any useful
>advise on how to start, any vital tools beyond what the factory
>recommends, can the tubing be cut with a miter saw with a carbide
>tipped blade?
There is probably some stuff in the archives, go root around, but in the
meantime:
Buy an air compressor. you'll need it to paint anyway.
Buy a 1/4" chuck air drill.
Run a real lightweight air hose to directly overhead your work bench, the kind
that is curly for the last 10'. Get 2 dozen 1/8" Black&Decker bullet bits.
Get two used interior doors, and build a narrow workbench that holds the doors
end to end. Now you have a workbench 14' long and 28"-30" wide, and high
enough
that you don't need to bend over. Make the legs set back enough that you
won't bark
your legs on them. Build shelves inside the bench to hold your tubing, etc.
make the
bottom shelf high enough off the floor to fit the parts boxes that Kolb
sends underneath.
Make sure the workbench/doors are flat and true, a lag bolt screwed into
the bottom of the
legs can be adjusted to correct twists, etc.
Go to a local paint store and buy a roll of masking paper. When you get
ready to draw
out your parts, tape out the paper on your workbench and draw everything
full size.
Make up little wedge blocks with phillips sheet metal screw through them,
use them
to chock your parts in place by screwing them right to the doors. Then
clamp the tubing
to the blocks with spring clamps. Holds everything in place while you drill
& rivet.
When you finish a part, rip off the paper and you have a clean workbench
for the next job.
Don't know about a miter saw, all I had was a tubing cutter, and then a
round rattail file to
clean off the flange. If it is too big for the tubing cutter, wrap a sheet
of paper around the tube
until the edges meet and overlap evenly. Trace the edge, and that is your
perfect line.
The Kolb is a great kit. Enjoy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FIREFLY INFO: Ingress, egress and emplaning |
First some personal statistics about getting into my FireFly; all the
posts heretofore have been about the joys--and perils, of flying and
landing. No one has said much about the first thing you need to do in
order to fly--get into the "vehicle."
I'm hitting 76, have a few vertebra welded together, am a tall 5-7, a
svelt (almost)200#. Now how to get into my FF (which is a coupla inches
higher due to my bigger metal wheels)? OK, I back up to rt.edge of the
cockpit side, raise up on tippy toes, slide butt over the side and slump
down into sling seat, bracing lt hand on lt edge--leaving legs still
hanging out. With lt. hand hold stick hard rt., lifting lt leg up, past
edge of windscreen, and down onside.Take a deep breath, reverse stick,
haul rt leg in same way, watching edge of windscreen--and don't shove a
foot through the fabric bottom aft of the pedals. Note: I have wear long
pants so I have something to grab to lift legs--shorts won't do.
(my 6'-2" S-I-L got in with a bit less trouble, and didn't need the
rudder pedal extensions I use)
It sounds worse than it really is, kinda like instructions for tying
shoes.
Now we come to engine start. I am the local comedy hour at this point.
I have a chock on a string, like soap on a rope. With chock in place, of
course, I energize the Armstrong Starting System, yanking the Rotax into
shuddering life. Choke gradually off, throttle advanced to 2K to keep
engine from shaking the paint offen the wings. Fine, all relatively
smooth--except no pilot aboard!
In computer language, loop to 2, with the added warning of NOT hitting
throttle with lt hand while initially falling into seat.
OK, now you're in and feet on heel brakes. I slack off throttle just
enough to be able to yank chock-on-a-rope out from rt wheel.
Others have remarked that this is dangerous, but life is inherently
dangerous, esp. at 76. I welcome suggestions of a better method. One has
been to lock the heel brakes with some kinda stick--but getting my feet
in would probably knock it loose. And remember, no one else is around.
But a great little plane, and a joy to own and fly. Grey Baron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking Advice |
Kolbers--here's a nice opportunity to do some real good instead biting
backs. Everybody in the pool. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines and painting |
About The Weight Of A Paint Job....
Even if we measure the volume/weight of paint we used & take into account
the estamated 85% volatility, there is still the overspray factor to consider as
well. It can be as high as 90% if you are shooting tubing & are a novice. The
only meaningful measure would be a before & after weighing. Someone who is at
the
painting stage sure could provide some useful data if they weighed the plane
before & after the foundation coat was sprayed, and the then again after the color
coat was sprayed. Then we could make informed decisions on wether to add that
2nd
or 3rd coat for extra UV protection, or what the weight penalty would be to change
the color. ---Richard S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NealMcCann(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FIREFLY INFO: Ingress, egress and emplaning |
Hey bob n,
It goes to show, necessity is the mother of invention.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Airworthiness certificate |
Hi Kolbers
Long awaited
day. FAA certified my 912
powered mark 111 for phase one flight on 3/19/99. The certification
took about 3 hours. The inspection was done by a DAR [designated
airworthiness representative]. He was most interested in the
documentation I provided in the form of pictures [over 200] and a daily
logbook of the building process to insure that the work was done by me.
I asked if carb heat is required [I do not have it] he stated if it is
not called for on the plans it is not required. For me the inspection
was a lot of worry over nothing. Anyone who is building their plane to
be registered if you have the proper paper work and building
documentation and a soundly built plane, an FAA inspection should not be
a problem. Bob Berrie
N350RB
Higganum, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking Advice |
Lee,
I will be receiving my first kit in May, I have the same question. I have
been w/the list for a couple of months and I think you will find helpful
advice by all. I will look forward towards your questions and I will post
mine as well. There are bullies out there but us "wannabies" will have to
stick together! Thanks to all!
Keith and Kelley Flaherty
Dallas Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking Advice |
Hi,
I just joined the list. Could you tell me how do I get in and how do I write
a question?
Thanks for your help.
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FIREFLY INFO: Ingress, egress and emplaning |
In a message dated 99-03-22 8:12:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<< I welcome suggestions of a better method. One has
been to lock the heel brakes with some kinda stick--but getting my feet
in would probably knock it loose. And remember, no one else is around. >>
The hang glider guys have a device that looks like an S hook with jaws at one
end and a long cord. When you tug on the cord one of the sets of jaws opens.
You could tie one end to your tie down and have a short rope on your tail
wheel rod. That way you could start the engine and get in with the plane
secured. Once you had yourdelf situated you could tug on the cord to release.
Kinda like a slip knot.
Your concern is well placed. A couple of years ago a guy at my airport
wanted to take a picture of his newly covered Aeronca next to his new BMW. He
wanted the prop to be turning for some reason, and then after he'd started the
plane decided that the tie down rope one one side didn't look right. So he
untied it. When he stepped back to take a picture of his two favorite
possessions the Aeronca taxied in a half circle by itself into the back of the
Beemer. Opened the trunk up like a can of tuna fish. Prop wrecked, engine
wrecked, rear end of car wrecked. Ain't aviation great?
________________________________________________________________________________
March 07, 1999 - March 22, 1999
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bi