Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-co
December 15, 2000 - January 05, 2001
The Jabiru/Kolb I saw at Oshkosh had a fairly small prop and 80 HP doesn't necessarily
translate to thrust.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | General Information |
The previous owner made skis from old water skis. He removed all the
hardware and bolted a 2 inch by 3 inch square aluminum tube to the ski, cut
of the extra angle at the front and back and drilled a hole for the axel to
fit through. The ski needs to be centered and balanced and cables made
from the front to the back of the ski--the pin for the strut is replaces
with a bolt and nut attached to the cables and and extra cable for the
bungee cord. This description of course is over simplified but can be
accomplished if y9ou have more time than money.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: Kottke, Dwight
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:48 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: General Information
I'm new to this site and I'm not sure how someone is to post a question,
so I'm just going to give it a shot.
I have a Firestar and I'm looking for plans for a total enclosure and how
to fab my own ski's. Can anyone help?
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Ping [mailto:howard.ping(at)gte.net]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: General Information
----- Original Message -----
From: jgw300 <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 12:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: General Information
>
> I created a Web-site to let builders and those interested in airplanes
> enjoy a few minutes. I intend to keep creating on this site using photos
> and information furnished by you people. I am also creating a 3-ring
binder
> of this information in various categories, which I will also give those
> interested. There is not money involved in this site. I created it on
a
> free server, and I will update it when new information is received.
>
> Let me know what you think about it, and how might I improve it to make
it
> more interesting.
>
> Just thought of a good addition to the site. A category for pictures of
all
> the members of this list. By your airplanes, or projects, or just by
> yourself. I know I would like to see who I am talking to.... even though
it
> is over the internet.
>
> http://jgw300markiiixtra.homestead.com/Introduction~ns4.html
>
> Julian Warren
> Eugene, Oregon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
After paying $50.00 to have a 1/2 sheet of lexan shipped 50 or 60 miles from
A/C spruce in Corona to here, I'd be real interested in finding out what
shipping on that engine would be from "En Zed" to the states. Might just be
substantial. Skeptical Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines
>
>
> > Did those of you that are interested in engines,
> > notice the post from Ashley Johnston on Thursday?
> > Ed Mills
>
>
> Ed and Gang:
>
> Couldn't find any info on Ashley's Jabiru Company. What is
> his background? How about his relationship with the Jabiru
> Factory? How does he and the US Jabiru rep interface? If
> you have a warranty problem, will Ashley take care of it in
> NZ or is the US rep gonna take care of you?
>
> A few questions I would want answered if I was considering
> an engine purchase from Ashley.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: General Information |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Hi Dwight,
A pair of new or used water skis make excellent snow skis for the
FireStar. I posted construction notes in the archives years ago that you
may want to search. The skis can be wood or composite and the full
5-1/2 foot length is fine. I've landed in some very heavy snow and
been able to take off out of it with those skis. Do be careful with the
rigging because to much tip up will cause lots of drag (guess how I know
that). The same goes for the down angle. If you have questions, email me.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, ski flying for 14 years
writes:
>
>
> I'm new to this site and I'm not sure how someone is to post a
> question,
> so I'm just going to give it a shot.
> I have a Firestar and I'm looking for plans for a total enclosure
> and how
> to fab my own ski's. Can anyone help?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Howard Ping [mailto:howard.ping(at)gte.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 8:14 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: General Information
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jgw300 <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 12:53 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: General Information
>
>
> >
> > I created a Web-site to let builders and those interested in
> airplanes
> > enjoy a few minutes. I intend to keep creating on this site using
> photos
> > and information furnished by you people. I am also creating a
> 3-ring
> binder
> > of this information in various categories, which I will also give
> those
> > interested. There is not money involved in this site. I created
> it on a
> > free server, and I will update it when new information is
> received.
> >
> > Let me know what you think about it, and how might I improve it to
> make it
> > more interesting.
> >
> > Just thought of a good addition to the site. A category for
> pictures of
> all
> > the members of this list. By your airplanes, or projects, or just
> by
> > yourself. I know I would like to see who I am talking to.... even
> though
> it
> > is over the internet.
> >
> > http://jgw300markiiixtra.homestead.com/Introduction~ns4.html
> >
> > Julian Warren
> > Eugene, Oregon
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
Hey Lar:
Do you have a Home Depot near you?
I've just bought some "PalSun" at HD for my bird after comparing its specs
against Lexan and concluding that it's pretty much the same thing. It is a
polycarbonate claimed to be 250 times stronger than glass, shatterproof and
bends well. Cost for 72" x 36" of 1/8" material was about what you paid in
freight ($56.88).
I went for one with a slight bronze tint that blocks 100% of UV and looks
"real cool". Haven't worked it yet so have no hands-on experience with it,
but I think it will do the job the same as Lexan.
You can find it at: www.paltough.com/code/palsun.html
(Has anybody else tried using this stuff? Would sure like to know if it
does NOT work before I end up feeding it through my prop!)
Peter
After paying $50.00 to have a 1/2 sheet of lexan shipped 50 or 60 miles from
A/C spruce in Corona to here... Skeptical Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/15/00 5:27:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pvolum(at)etsmiami.com writes:
<< bends well. Cost for 72" x 36" of 1/8" material was about what you paid in
freight ($56.88). >>
Yeah but: Standard is .060 thickness. Thick stuff is .090 and thats
considered HEAVY duty for airspeeds to 150 !! .125 is good for stopping
bullets and you would need the Hulkster to bend it for you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: General Information |
Full enclosure comes as a kit from Kolb. I bet the plans for installing come
with it also. I ordered my airplane from Kolb with both open or short
windshield, and the full enclosure kit. The plans came with a page for the
full enclocure.Give them a call. G. Aman FS2 Akron Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/13/00 message of Wed, |
13 De...
In a message dated 12/14/00 9:09:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
<< If you didn't wipe off the fingerprints it
wouldn't spin more than 5-6 seconds. Some of you guys out there may
remember the "Sunnen Spinner" as I do.
.000" is nothing, nada, no clearance....I know Rotax is good but......
Hillbilly Mike
FSII
BRS
68" Powerfin >>
Hey Hill! Looks like you've been around the technical pike awhile too....I
work (consult) for a guy who is serious about 5 - 10 thousandths on his Drake
Grinding machines...its all CNC and he competes with the world for most
precision and accuracy. Takes old J & L,s (only 6000 were originally built)
.... removes everything that moves, and replaces it with servo drives and
ball screws...the title then goes from J & L to Drake. I have lotsa history
with this fella who is about to retire (but never will) and wanted to build a
helicopter. So I talked to John Hauck at S & F or air venture...he talked me
out of helicopters...and I passed it on to my friend JD who had NO experience
in aviation, but is super creative and successful, Now, he has given up the
H word and is looking possibly at an RV or Sonerai.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
Sorry Dwight, sold the engine to Tim Townsend, who is on this list and he is
going to put it on a Mark 3. He reworked it, painted it up real pretty, but
I haven't heard if he is flying yet or not. He sells flying parachutes,
guess he wanted to go faster. I sold it too cheap, made Tim happy, was
offered a lot more money for it after the sell, but couldn't really find out
how much a used 582 was worth. Tim may deal in engines, how about it Tim,
got any 582's for Dwight?
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Ar\
Mark 3 with a jabiru
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
Skeptical Lar:
I paid $150.00 for the engine being shipped from L.A., but paid
$8200.00 for the engine. I would have to believe there is a lot of shipping
from Australia to L.A. in that price. It was very well packaged and I use
the crate for a small table in my hanger.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Ar
Mark 3 with a Jabiru
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | General Information |
>
>
>
> I have a Firestar and I'm looking for plans for a total enclosure and how
>to fab my own ski's. Can anyone help?
If you have a bit of artistic skill you could fabricate an enclosure
out of foam and fiberglass. Same technique as building a Long-eze. If
interested I can send a photo of my new enclosure for a mk111 made this
way. I was trying for a Star Warsian look to it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
A friend of mine bought lexon from a local windshield replacement business
that carried it. For $90 he got enough for his challenger windshield and
two doors. I don't know how much it would cost you from Aircraft Spruce,
but he said it was a lot cheaper then any place he checked with, including
the manufacture.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Ar
Mark 3 with a jabiru
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
I checked at the local HD for my 2nd replacement piece, ( guess how I
learned to work with lexan - the hard way - like everything else I seem to
do ) and they had lexan type lexan, and the price was fairly comparable to
ACS, tho' ACS was a little cheaper, believe it or not. Shipping and/or
travelling more than offset that, tho', but HD had a problem getting the
larger pieces ( bigger than 2' x 4') in the thinner, 1/8" thickness, in any
kind of reasonable time frame. So...............for the 2nd piece, I drove
to Corona. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 5:26 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
>
> Hey Lar:
>
> Do you have a Home Depot near you?
>
> I've just bought some "PalSun" at HD for my bird after comparing its specs
> against Lexan and concluding that it's pretty much the same thing. It is
a
> polycarbonate claimed to be 250 times stronger than glass, shatterproof
and
> bends well. Cost for 72" x 36" of 1/8" material was about what you paid in
> freight ($56.88).
>
> I went for one with a slight bronze tint that blocks 100% of UV and looks
> "real cool". Haven't worked it yet so have no hands-on experience with
it,
> but I think it will do the job the same as Lexan.
>
> You can find it at: www.paltough.com/code/palsun.html
>
> (Has anybody else tried using this stuff? Would sure like to know if it
> does NOT work before I end up feeding it through my prop!)
>
> Peter
>
> After paying $50.00 to have a 1/2 sheet of lexan shipped 50 or 60 miles
from
> A/C spruce in Corona to here... Skeptical Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Thanks for reminding me, Kris. I had forgotten that the piece I needed was
for my overhead, and I wanted .063, not 1/8". Used .090 for my gull wing
doors, as per Ron Christensen's recommendation. You're right, 1/8" is about
bullet proof, and a bitch to work with. This seems to be my night for
lexan. BTW, Kris, I finally got my door front edges laid in solid to the
frame with the heat gun and heavy gloves. Looks great. Also, BTW,
Group...........Kris took the pics of me standing by Vamoose, with my hand
on the muffler, that Will Uribe, and Julian Warren published for me. Used
his snazzy digital camera, and it sure did a nice job. Gonna get one, perty
soon now. Lexan Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KHe1144783(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
>
> In a message dated 12/15/00 5:27:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> pvolum(at)etsmiami.com writes:
>
> << bends well. Cost for 72" x 36" of 1/8" material was about what you paid
in
> freight ($56.88). >>
> Yeah but: Standard is .060 thickness. Thick stuff is .090 and thats
> considered HEAVY duty for airspeeds to 150 !! .125 is good for stopping
> bullets and you would need the Hulkster to bend it for you.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbrooks(at)dialpoint.net (John Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 12/15/00 |
I use a single EGT with a probe on each cylinder and a double-pole double-throw
switch I got from Radio Shack. The system haw worked very well for over 270
hr.
John FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Toggle Switch |
John & All,
Years back, I set out to calibrate my Westach guages & was amased at how
far off they where, especially the tach & EGT. The EGT was off 125 degrees,
but 50 of those 125 were due to the switch I installed to toggle between the
2 probes. There was no cold joint solder connections that I could tell. I
went to a gold plated switch & soldered it with extreme care & the added
error became acceptable, I don't remember what it was exactly. I was using
an industrial, calibrated digital pyromiter to do the tests. Apparently the
voltage and current rates are so small that using different wiring, added
connections or switches can adversely affect the readings. It can be done,
but it must be done right & you should do a before & after check when you
make a change.
As an addendum to the EIS thread, my Westach rpm was off 800rpm, my 2
buddies were off 500 & 600, these measurements were done with a calibrated
strobe using reflective tape on prop. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Brooks" <jbrooks(at)dialpoint.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 12/15/00
>
> I use a single EGT with a probe on each cylinder and a double-pole
double-throw switch I got from Radio Shack. The system haw worked very well
for over 270 hr.
>
> John FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
Lexan is a brand name GE uses for its polycarbonate resin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GPS For Sale! |
I've got a brand new Garmin GPS III Pilot for sale at $550 (MSRP
$649) plus $15 for shipping. I've been laid up with an illness and I
have no paycheck coming in for a while, is the reason I'm selling it. I
just purchased it a few weeks ago so it's never been used other than
checking it out in the living room at home. Its a nifty little unit
that would be a nice friend to have along on a cross country flight.
Please respond directly to me and not in the group. Here's a link to
the Garmin website that describes the unit.
www.garmin.com/products/gpsIIIPilot/
Ken
Firestar (holding short)
Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 12/14/00 |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Regarding reduction drives so you can swing a large diameter prop with a
VW - try
Great Plains. They make a belt reduction for VW.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 12/15/00 |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Re: Windshield Material
Lexan is merely GE's trade name for polycarbonate (PC). It is terribly
strong for thickness and weight, much more than the acrylic (AC) used in
"store bought" Cessnas, unless AC is put through an expensive process
used by the military and all. It can be bent with a brake, rather than
heating it to bend it as is needed for AC. So, why don't the factory
built aircraft use PC? PC has a couple disadvantages for long term use,
especially in aircraft that will be tied down outside. First, PC is
easily damaged by ultraviolet light (UV). It would last only a few years
on an aircraft tied down outside or operated at high altitudes where UV
is more intense. Auto and truck headlight lenses are made of PC rather
than AC, due to PC's greater strength and heat resistance. These lenses
are treated with an exotic coating to improve UV resistance. Still,
you'll often see badly yellowed PC lenses on older vehicles. In addition
to losing its good light transmitting properties, UV damaged PC becomes
very weak. If you use PC for glazing, it is a good idea to cover it up
when it sits in the sunlight. PC is much less resistant to solvent attack
than AC, especially in areas where it is stressed, such as in a bend or
around fasteners. Be careful not to spill gas on it!
I would advise you to be careful about using tinted windshields,
especially if you do any twilight flying. A windshield angled at 60
degrees throws away 30 percent of the incident light with no tinting at
all. 50 percent light transmission doesn't look like much! You can easily
get your light transmission down to less than 30 percent total, which
makes twilight a lot dimmer! You may be better off using clear glazing,
along with sunglasses when needed. I think this is why factory aircraft
don't use tinting, as they are often flown during twilight or at night.
Some tints do reduce UV damage, which is the only other advantage I can
think of, other than looking cool.
Regards,
Larry the Micro Mong Guy (and Optical Engineer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Dear Listers,
I have a 3 cylinder geo engine for sale.
It has 62k, 2 complete sets of harnesses and computers, & the raven redrive
manual.
I have about $600 invested, and will sell for $250, and will ship no charge
in the lower 48.
I found an unbelievable price on a 582 for my Mark III, so I'm selling the
Geo.
Thanks, and Happy Holidays.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
Larry: Will send out request for DAR inspection on Monday. Just need the
3-Pics of it and Im GO !! Will have them inspect it on my driveway. Saves him
a trip to Thermal Airport and gives me time to do any final cosmetic stuff.
Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT Toggle Switch |
> The EGT was off 125 degrees,
> but 50 of those 125 were due to the switch I installed to toggle between the
> 2 probes. There was no cold joint solder connections that I could tell.
Every connection, soldered or not, that changes impedence or
resistance is called a "cold joint" in the pyrometer field.
> Apparently the
> voltage and current rates are so small that using different wiring, added
> connections or switches can adversely affect the readings.
Absolutely correct. Best route to accuracy is a single length of
alumel/chromel ( or whatever type is appropriate for the sensor
class) between the probe and instrument.
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
I didn't know that was an option. Sounds good, you can sit and wait for him
at home. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KHe1144783(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
>
> Larry: Will send out request for DAR inspection on Monday. Just need the
> 3-Pics of it and Im GO !! Will have them inspect it on my driveway. Saves
him
> a trip to Thermal Airport and gives me time to do any final cosmetic
stuff.
> Kris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Peter,
Dave has been using the gray tinted polycarbonate for a while with no
problems.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tire1.jpg
I purchased a sheet of 4' X 8' .093 polycarbonate in bronze tint for a total
of $75.23. I cut the original windshield too small and I always wanted a
tinted windshield. Last weekend Otto and I cut the windshield and maybe on
Sunday we can finish the installation.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091595.JPG
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091596.JPG
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091598.JPG
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tire1.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091595.JPG
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091596.JPG
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PC091598.JPG
In a message dated 12/15/00 8:27:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pvolum(at)etsmiami.com writes:
> I've just bought some "PalSun" at HD for my bird after comparing its specs
> against Lexan and concluding that it's pretty much the same thing. It is a
> polycarbonate claimed to be 250 times stronger than glass, shatterproof and
> bends well. Cost for 72" x 36" of 1/8" material was about what you paid in
> freight ($56.88).
>
> I went for one with a slight bronze tint that blocks 100% of UV and looks
> "real cool". Haven't worked it yet so have no hands-on experience with it,
> but I think it will do the job the same as Lexan.
>
> You can find it at: www.paltough.com/code/palsun.html
>
> (Has anybody else tried using this stuff? Would sure like to know if it
> does NOT work before I end up feeding it through my prop!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: DIS-MOUNTING TIRES FROM RIMS |
Last year, some one gave me a good hint about how to "break the bead" and get
the tire off a split rim; it worked well, but now I have forgotten the
secret. Any tips??
Shack
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Controls updated |
Has anyone noticed how TNK has updated the control system for the FireFly and
FireStar?
The old FireStar had all kinds of angles on the control stick and an offset.
http://members.aol.com/cesaru/KolbFSII/260.jpg
http://members.aol.com/willuribe/160.jpg
The new setup is in the front middle of the seat so the joy stick doesn't
have to be offset.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231469.JPG
And a new kind of universal joint is now being used.
Old style
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P5290487.JPG
New style
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231506.JPG
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9241507.JPG
This should make the controls a lot more smooth.
Regards,
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General Information |
Please send me a picture of your Enclosure, I would like to add it to the
Web site under Enclosures.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 7:01 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: General Information
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a Firestar and I'm looking for plans for a total enclosure and
how
> >to fab my own ski's. Can anyone help?
>
>
> If you have a bit of artistic skill you could fabricate an enclosure
> out of foam and fiberglass. Same technique as building a Long-eze. If
> interested I can send a photo of my new enclosure for a mk111 made this
> way. I was trying for a Star Warsian look to it.
>
>
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
If so pictures would be nice.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
Building FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: DIS-MOUNTING TIRES FROM RIMS |
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
> Last year, some one gave me a good hint about how to "break the bead" and
get
> the tire off a split rim; it worked well, but now I have forgotten the
> secret. Any tips??
Found following post from Richard Pike in the archives.
I also need to fix a flat on our Mark III so I'll probably
try Richards suggestion too.
Message: #11351
Date: Jun 27, 1999
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Tire changes
The last set of tires I removed from Matco Rims required
a die grinder with cut off disc to cut the tire's wire bead in order
to remove from the split rims.
One of the guys I flew to Oshkosh with last year has made a "bead breaker."
Take a hunk of 3/4" to 1" plywood (thicker is better)
and cut a circle in it just a tiny bit bigger around than the wheel.
Let the air out of the tire. Lay the plywood over the wheel/tire
so that the wheel is centered in the opening.
Drive your truck onto the plywood next to the wheel.
Up here in Tennessee we don't fool around...
Disclaimer: Be careful with soft aluminum rims!
If she don't let go, you can bend things!
Richard Pike
MKIII 420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Ron I installed a cockpit controlled elevator trim tab on my firestarKXP
about three years ago I got the worm gear tab and cables from Rans
Aircraft cost about $125 three years ago or so ,Works flawlessly installed
roller wheel just ahead of throttle . Sorry I don't have any pictures yet If
I can ever figure out how to scan photos so I can email them I will post
them. Chris Davis 1990 KXP chatham cape cod Ma.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:54 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> If so pictures would be nice.
>
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky
> Building FireStar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Not sure if it'll help you, but I designed and built a simple, cockpit
contolled elevator trim for my Mk III. Got pics if you want 'em.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 3:54 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> If so pictures would be nice.
>
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky
> Building FireStar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: DIS-MOUNTING TIRES FROM RIMS |
Richard's idea is a beauty, but you have to be a pretty good shot.
I modified it slightly by making a second piece of plywood about the same
size without the hole. The solid piece on one side & the one with the hole
on the other. Then, using 4 shop clamps, I evenly tighten my way around &
around. When one side breaks loose, I reverse the plywood pieces and break
the other side loose. This arrangement has never broken a wheel (Yet)
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: cjcullen <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: DIS-MOUNTING TIRES FROM RIMS
>
>
> From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
>
>
> > Last year, some one gave me a good hint about how to "break the bead"
and
> get
> > the tire off a split rim; it worked well, but now I have forgotten the
> > secret. Any tips??
>
> Found following post from Richard Pike in the archives.
> I also need to fix a flat on our Mark III so I'll probably
> try Richards suggestion too.
>
> Message: #11351
> Date: Jun 27, 1999
> From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
> Subject: Re: Tire changes
>
> The last set of tires I removed from Matco Rims required
> a die grinder with cut off disc to cut the tire's wire bead in order
> to remove from the split rims.
>
> One of the guys I flew to Oshkosh with last year has made a "bead
breaker."
> Take a hunk of 3/4" to 1" plywood (thicker is better)
> and cut a circle in it just a tiny bit bigger around than the wheel.
> Let the air out of the tire. Lay the plywood over the wheel/tire
> so that the wheel is centered in the opening.
> Drive your truck onto the plywood next to the wheel.
> Up here in Tennessee we don't fool around...
> Disclaimer: Be careful with soft aluminum rims!
> If she don't let go, you can bend things!
> Richard Pike
> MKIII 420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Ron,
I have a collection of old pictures with cockpit controlled elevator trim,
most of them are from SlingShots.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim1.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim2.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim3.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim4.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim5.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim6.jpg
Regards
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim1.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim2.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim3.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim4.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim5.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim6.jpg
In a message dated 12/17/00 6:58:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
> Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> If so pictures would be nice.
>
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky
> Building FireStar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: DAR inspection. |
Larry: Sure, why not. Its "Ready to Fly". Just not from my driveway. BUT-if
the wind kicks up--------------Hmmmmm. Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Sorry Folks, mine is a cockpit controlled RUDDER trim. Guess the ol' head
bone is still a little fuzzy this morning. Sleepy Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Not sure if it'll help you, but I designed and built a simple, cockpit
> contolled elevator trim for my Mk III. Got pics if you want 'em.
> Big Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
> To: "Kolb"
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 3:54 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> > If so pictures would be nice.
> >
> > Ron Payne
> > Gilbertsville, Ky
> > Building FireStar
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
For some reason, I couldn't get #5 to open, but I really like the idea shown
in #3 & 4. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Ron,
> I have a collection of old pictures with cockpit controlled elevator trim,
> most of them are from SlingShots.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim2.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim3.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim4.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim5.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim6.jpg
> Regards
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim2.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim3.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim4.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim5.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
lane/trim6.jpg
>
> In a message dated 12/17/00 6:58:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
>
>
> > Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> > If so pictures would be nice.
> >
> > Ron Payne
> > Gilbertsville, Ky
> > Building FireStar
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Sent this back to Julian on the 1st try. Here goes again, maybe even to
Kolb List this time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: VW Engine
> I've been looking over Julian's web page for a few days now, and I have to
> say I'm impressed. Not only because I'm featured in it, ( Egotistical
Lar )
> but because of the quality of his work, and especially the thought behind
it
> all. There are a few others with VERY good sites, ( Will Uribe comes
> immediately to mind ) and Julian belongs right up there with them. He's
> also inspired me to re-start work on my own site, and has given some
> assistance. Thank you, Julian ! ! ! Big Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
>
> > I have not advertised any, and I would like you to take a peek at it.
> > http://jgw300markiiixtra.homestead.com/Introduction~ns4.html
> >
> > Julian Warren
> > Eugene, Oregon
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Ski's and cold weather flying |
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
Some skis that I have seen have usable wheels in the ski so you can land
on pavement, but that would produce a lot of drag for take-off on the snow.
The type of flying I do is from my runway to lakes. I have landed on plowed
grass strip with my skis on. I had no trouble landing or taking off, but
it's hard on the bottom of the skis.
On my runway I use a snowmobile pulling an old bed spring down the runway.
Works great, takes the air out of the snow. The snow on the lakes is always
harder than in the woods and fields, that is, after it hasn't snowed for a
while.
I made my skis out of water skis. I made a frame out 4130 tubing, it's
bolted just aft of center of ski so the weigh of the plane rides on the back
of the ski (just a little). I used them for awhile, then I added a sheet
of plastic ) on the bottom of the skis (I got them from a friend free). It
made the skis wider and a better surface for wear and less friction. Without
the runner ( it's for tracking), you would have a hard time keeping it
straight or turning on the ground. I made that out of plastic. It's about
1/2 in. thick and 1 in. wide, one on each ski. The ends are tapered to the
ski, and it runs shy of the full length of the flat part of the ski. It's
mounted to a frame with rounded carriage bolts. The skis attach to the axles
and the nose and tail attach with cables to the bottom of lift struts.
The pin is replaced with a bolt. The cables are loose for ski movement and a
bungie cord is attached from the nose to the bolt (replacing the pin) on the
lift strut cable. This will lift the nose of ski up when you take off. I had
it happen, just a few times where the nose of the ski did not come up due to
wet snow stuck on the nose of the ski. An easy problem to solve , just add
negative G's and they come right up.
I also saw skis where they are mounted to the wheel.
Cold weather flying.
Pre-heat engine, I never had to do that. My plane is in my hanger which is
attached to my house and the hanger is no less 55 degrees f. When I ice fish
it may sit for a few hours in the upper teens. I never had any trouble
starting it . I'll fly around the lake a few times while checking my
tip-ups. That keeps the engine warm as well as having a little additional
fun. After it sits for a few hours, it probably gets as cold as it's going
to get, I would think.
I wrap my oil reservoir with a material I got at the hardware store called
"The Insulator."(1-800-528-8219) I use wire ties to secure it to the oil
reservoir or you could use hose clamps. I also cover part of my radiator
with it, although as far a radiators, you could use cardboard if you wanted
to go cheap. I have a piece of aluminum strap pop-riveted to a frame and I
slide the material between that and the radiator.
This works well for me. There may be a better way, but I'm satisfied with
what I've come up with.
Merry Christmas to all!
Scott Trask
Iron Mountain, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul J Carillon, Sr" <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Ron and list, my name Jack and i fly with Gary Aman, (Zep Rep) on the list
,we are both in the Akron Oh. area , he and i both fly firestar II's and he
has always had to hold a little forward stick to fly level so he made a very
simple elevator trim by attaching an extra cable with a spring in line to
one of the turnbuckles at the bottom of the stick. The cable is routed back
to the front of the rear seat where a small pully is located then back up to
the front edge of the front seat where he has a small bolt or threaded rod
to which the cable is attached with a knurled knob on the threaded rod or
bolt , tightning the cable it puts more tension on the spring which in turn
pulls the stick forward taking the pressure off it. Very simple ,no trim tab
on the elevator. I think getting the right spring for the job is the only
problem, trial an error. I think this set up would work for someone who is
also having to hold back stick for nose down tendency by attaching it to the
other turnbuckle. I only looked at this setup once so if you want more info
try contacting Gary i'm sure he would give you more information on it.
Jack carillon Akron Oh. Firestar II 85hrs.
Ron or Mary Payne wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> If so pictures would be nice.
>
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky
> Building FireStar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General Information |
>
>Please send me a picture of your Enclosure, I would like to add it to the
>Web site under Enclosures.
It's in the mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Solar window film?? |
lots of resources out there here on the Kolb builders group.
I am looking for some of the silver material that the auto windshield
shades/motorhome window shades and airplane shades are made from. The
material blocks and keeps out heat and light and like aluminum foil covered
styrafoam. I am looking for somewhere to buy iy in buld, or per foot etc.
Have a project and can't find it anywhere. Any body ever found this. Some
guys at the airport in Kansas where my inlaws planes are had some, thery
bought it per foot at the local hardware store to make their own custome
shades for their planes, but it's no longer available there.
Thanks for the help, email me directly if wanted. Timandjan(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
CHRIS I FLY A FIRESTAR OUT OF CRANLAND AIRPORT WE SHOULD TALK SOMETIME
BOB WILKIE 1-781-878-4215
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
This is without a doubt one of the best examples of the value of the List
that I have seen. Someone needs help on something they would like to do,
then another gives that individual some pictures, then another enjoys the
results. I congratulate the list and the people using it.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> For some reason, I couldn't get #5 to open, but I really like the idea
shown
> in #3 & 4. Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 7:52 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
> >
> > Ron,
> > I have a collection of old pictures with cockpit controlled elevator
trim,
> > most of them are from SlingShots.
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim1.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim2.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim3.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim4.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim5.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim6.jpg
> > Regards
> > Will Uribe
> > El Paso, TX
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim1.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim1.jpg
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim2.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim2.jpg
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim3.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim3.jpg
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim4.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim4.jpg
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim5.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim5.jpg
> >
HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/trim6.jpg">http://home.elp.rr.com/airp
> lane/trim6.jpg
> >
> > In a message dated 12/17/00 6:58:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone ever put a cockpit controlled elevator trim on a FireStar?
> > > If so pictures would be nice.
> > >
> > > Ron Payne
> > > Gilbertsville, Ky
> > > Building FireStar
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
> This is without a doubt one of the best examples of the value of the List
> that I have seen.
> Julian Warren
Julian:
That's what makes it work.
Nuther subject: Rats!
After spending $25 or more for DECON Rat Poison since last
Spring, I finally bought a package of coarse steel wool at
Wall*Mart. First night I stuck one pad in each quadrant of
the Tailboom which is devided by the elevator control
mechanism. Came back next day to check my work. The rats
had stolen one of my pads. There were three left. One
disappeared. Well, I put a fix on them. I stuffed two pads
in each quadrant.. Came back next day. Evidence of
something trying to pull a pad out, but no success. I won
the battle of the rats for now, anyhow. They certainly can
do some damage costing time and money.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>After spending $25 or more for DECON Rat Poison since last
>Spring, I finally bought a package of coarse steel wool at
>Wall*Mart. I won
>the battle of the rats for now, anyhow. They certainly can
>do some damage costing time and money.
"Mus uni non fidit antro." ~ A mouse does not rely on just one
hole.----Plautus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Sounds like you're having a heck of a time, John. Wasn't it squirrels last
year ??
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
> > This is without a doubt one of the best examples of the value of the
List
> > that I have seen.
> > Julian Warren
>
>
> Julian:
>
> That's what makes it work.
>
> Nuther subject: Rats!
>
> After spending $25 or more for DECON Rat Poison since last
> Spring, I finally bought a package of coarse steel wool at
> Wall*Mart. First night I stuck one pad in each quadrant of
> the Tailboom which is devided by the elevator control
> mechanism. Came back next day to check my work. The rats
> had stolen one of my pads. There were three left. One
> disappeared. Well, I put a fix on them. I stuffed two pads
> in each quadrant.. Came back next day. Evidence of
> something trying to pull a pad out, but no success. I won
> the battle of the rats for now, anyhow. They certainly can
> do some damage costing time and money.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
That sure looks nice, Will. I'm sure it'll protect you from all that
blinding snow, down there in West Texas too ! ! ! Guess I shouldn't
joke.............I understand you do get some savage weather from time to
time, and our friends in the Eastern 2/3 of the country are purely getting a
real pounding right now. Good luck all of you. Will, a serious
question............that tinted lexan looks very nice, but how does it
affect colors ?? Big Lar. Merry Christmas.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
>
> Greetings,
> I installed the bronze tinted windshield on my FireStar today and it came
out
> looking pretty good, if I do say so myself.
> Here are some more pictures.>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks to those who expressed interest in the geo. Sold it last night.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
> Sounds like you're having a heck of a time, John. Wasn't it squirrels last
> year ??
> Lar
Lar and Gang:
Thought it was squirrels until a fecal expert happened along
by chance and identified the evidence as rat turds. I have
a pretty secure system now, unless they find another
entrance.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
> John, would you be interested in a cat?
> Dave,
> El Paso
Dave and Gang:
YES!
How about a cougar?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Now, THERE'S a specialty to study for ! ! !
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 6:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
> > Sounds like you're having a heck of a time, John. Wasn't it squirrels
last
> > year ??
> > Lar
>
> Lar and Gang:
>
> Thought it was squirrels until a fecal expert happened along
> by chance and identified the evidence as rat turds. I have
> a pretty secure system now, unless they find another
> entrance.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The comparison of control
> systems was excellent--now my original Firestar is 2 generations away from
> the modern Kolb.
> Dale Seitzer
Dale and Gang:
Your post made me stop and think also. My MK III is SN
M3-011. We started fabricating the fuselage February 1991.
First flew March 1992. She still flies good and performs
her duties with a smile on her face.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
John--I don't mean the 3rd generation thing as an insult. I have been told
by people who have flown new and original firestars that the original
aeleron control system is more complex, expensive but better because of a
balanced feel. Some updates are very good like the folding elevator and
rudder cable attatchments on the Firestar II is much better. I paid
$7,000 for the plane and a trailer and I am very happy--lots of fun for the
price. I should be able to sell it for what I paid when I am ready to
move up. I do look at those shiny new planes and dream a bit--mine has
the scratches and patches from use. I try to clean it but there is dust on
the wings and mud around the wheels and grease on the hinges and oil around
the engine--just things from regular use. Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
> The comparison of control
> systems was excellent--now my original Firestar is 2 generations away
from
> the modern Kolb.
> Dale Seitzer
Dale and Gang:
Your post made me stop and think also. My MK III is SN
M3-011. We started fabricating the fuselage February 1991.
First flew March 1992. She still flies good and performs
her duties with a smile on her face.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> John--I don't mean the 3rd generation thing as an insult. I have been told
> by people who have flown new and original firestars that the original
> aeleron control system is more complex, expensive but better because of a
> balanced feel. Dale
Dale and Gang:
Did not take it that way. Just reminiscing. Time is
flying.
I also favored my old original Firestar. I think it flies
much better than any of the updated Firestars I have flown.
However, I have not flown that many newer Firestars and
maybe I am a little bit prejudice.
I still have my original Firestar fuselage, a little bent
and broken, but salvageable. If I were to consider
rebuilding it, the first thing I would do is build a 7 rib
wing opposed to the 5 rib. That would give me the assurance
that I could fly a little faster and a little harder.
However, there is nothing wrong with the 5 rib wing if flown
the way it was designed to be flown.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilton101(at)aol.com |
Dale..Where in MN?..I'm in Mpls...I've been lurking here as I just sold my
Quickie 2 and thought aout a Kolb to tow and play with when I escape from the
winter! I'm not a builder and will look for a flying two place.
Stay warm...
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
John
Your post made me look at my paperwork. My MK III is SN-033, also built in
1991 and still flying great! I did not build it and am the third owner. Went
up for awhile today (40degrees).
Jim
MK III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Lexan
>
> > The comparison of control
> > systems was excellent--now my original Firestar is 2 generations away
from
> > the modern Kolb.
>
> > Dale Seitzer
>
> Dale and Gang:
>
> Your post made me stop and think also. My MK III is SN
> M3-011. We started fabricating the fuselage February 1991.
> First flew March 1992. She still flies good and performs
> her duties with a smile on her face.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
John's brother was instrumental in the redesign of the new control system.
Maybe he will come up with a retro fit for the old FireStars without having
to weld it on. I don't know if there is a demand for that type of retro fit.
Between Dave and I, we have cut and installed about 4 or 5 windshields on
both our FireStars so it's about time we got it right.
I just want to thank everyone who has sent me complements on and off list.
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
In a message dated 12/18/00 11:19:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, dale(at)gmada.com
writes:
> Will--That looks wonderful and is practical. I enjoy your site--it is one
> of several Kolb owner sites I have book marked. The comparison of control
> systems was excellent--now my original Firestar is 2 generations away from
> the modern Kolb.
>
> In Minnesota we have had too many below zero temp days so no flying here
> recently--lots of opportunities to read and talk about flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | "Chilli Vest" test |
>Alright!!! We are gaining ground. Now we have three Chilli
>Vest Converts.
Took the "Chilli Vest" up for a test today. Ground temperature at 1,000 ft
MSL was about 38 degrees (I know youse guys up north knock holes in the ice
& go swimming when it gets in the 30's). Maybe a better test on a colder day.
It was also sunny and not much wind. So I plugged it in a flew up to 9,000
feet, and floated around for a while; didn't measure the temperature up
there. The whole trip took about 1 hour 15 minutes.
I have a Firestar type enclose cockpit, not completely enclosed, but no
wind hits me directly. There are two open "moon shaped" windows behind my
head on the sides of the plane - but had my intakes were closed.
Main thing is that it works, like John Russell says. Wore a long sleeve
cotton turtle neck, the vest, and windbreaker. I probably could have done
without the windbreaker. I wore tennis shoes & two pair of normal socks.
My feet didn't get cold.
My hands didn't get cold.
I had to turn it down to about one-half or two-thirds power. You can see
the little pluse light slow down.
It sustained the set temperature and doesn't shut off and heat up again
like the old heating blankets.
The advertising says it is completely water proof.
You can unplug the controller and take it and the vest with you when you
leave or let it stay "velcroed" to the cockpit and just uplug the vest.
"Vir prudens non contra ventum mingit" for bob n
Possum at <http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rats/Mice and old Romans |
> Read his plays in HS 4th yr Latin'40.
>
> bn
Gray Baron and Gang:
Damn, that makes me feel young. I was most likely still
wetting my diapers in 1940. Or was that 1840???
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Sure
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
Hello listers,
I have just discovered that my fuel tanks need replaced, they're
beginning to leak from small cracks near bottom. Any one have a good
lead on a source for replacement? Plane is a Mark II with two 5 gals.
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Chilli Vest" test |
> Main thing is that it works, like John Russell says. Wore a long sleeve
> cotton turtle neck, the vest, and windbreaker. I probably could have done
> without the windbreaker. I wore tennis shoes & two pair of normal socks.
> My feet didn't get cold.
> My hands didn't get cold.
> Possum at <http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/>
Possum and Gang:
Sounds like you had a good test flight for the Chilli Vest.
After yours and John Russell's positive report, I think I
have we have a winner.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann(at)caa.is> |
Hi Kolb listers.
I just started building my home page, and if anyone is interested, you
can take a look
at it here:
http://sites.netscape.net/johanngestur/homepage
You will only see my two Kolb Firestars, and my new project (Zenith
701) but if you need any construction pictures for the Firestar, please
contact me via e-mail, and I will add them to the page.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thanks everyone |
In a message dated 12/19/00 9:46:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
<< What if the elevator cable broke in flight for some
strange reason, neglect or whatever.The elevator is the most important of
the three main control systems. From this standpoint would it be better to
have a adjustable cockpit trim or a fixed trim on the elevator itself that
would make the plane neutral in pitch at a mid throttle setting. >>
John, just a thought to consider: I have found that I am able to make a 180
degree turn and land my Firestar without ever touching the stick. I didn't
actually let her touch down as a little bounce would have occurred, but
nothing would have bent. Granted, I had a long runway [3,000'] and little
wind. I practice this a lot as I too have worried about some sort of
elevator or aileron failure. I find I can also make a decent approach to
landing without touching the stick while at engine idle- the descent rate is
only about 600fpm. I have no elevator trim.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thanks everyone |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
John,
I suspect that any system relying on bias/tension on the rudder cable
would be inoperative in the event of an elevator cable failure. An
adjustable trim tab controlled from the cockpit would probably yield some
degree of elevator control.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
Hi Gang,
I have a question regarding trim systems. I'm going to ask the
question
from a what if scenario. What if the elevator cable broke in flight for
some
strange reason, neglect or whatever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks everyone |
Your plane must be very close to a neutral balance point. Most planes have
a definite forward CG, and if the 'up' elevator cable were to break, would
go into an instant nose dive. Exception would be something like a Cessna,
with a separate trim tab. With this in mind, even tho' it's extremely
unlikely, I ran a separate cable from the elevator trim spring, all the way
back to the 'up' elevator horn at the tail, and hooked it to a separate
clevis. I also pulled the 2nd cable thru a full length of plastic tubing,
to help prevent any chafing, or clanging inside the tail boom. THAT was
fun. Tedious too. Now, if the 'up' cable were to break, I've got a back
up. And, of course, I have pics of that, too. Paranoid Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Thanks everyone
>
> In a message dated 12/19/00 9:46:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
>
> << What if the elevator cable broke in flight for some
> strange reason, neglect or whatever.The elevator is the most important of
> the three main control systems. From this standpoint would it be better
to
> have a adjustable cockpit trim or a fixed trim on the elevator itself
that
> would make the plane neutral in pitch at a mid throttle setting. >>
>
>
> John, just a thought to consider: I have found that I am able to make a
180
> degree turn and land my Firestar without ever touching the stick. I
didn't
> actually let her touch down as a little bounce would have occurred, but
> nothing would have bent. Granted, I had a long runway [3,000'] and little
> wind. I practice this a lot as I too have worried about some sort of
> elevator or aileron failure. I find I can also make a decent approach to
> landing without touching the stick while at engine idle- the descent rate
is
> only about 600fpm. I have no elevator trim.
>
> Shack
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks everyone |
I agree John. The best scenario is to have neutral conditions with no control
imput.In your case, a fixed tab takes all loads off of the cables. It only
changes slightly with fuel load and not much more with a passenger. But it is
cool to trim it flat and no hands regardless of load changes.Somtimes you
might have to pick your n-- I mean punch the buttons on your GPS or sumthin.
G.Aman FS2 74hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Actually colder in New Orleans than in Boston this morning. I imagine
John H. is ready to say "uncle"......have to scrape the frost off the
Kolb
windshield . On a related subject, never take off with that little
dusting
of snow on your wingtops, it may well be hiding a small ridge of
crusty ice. ---ask me how I know...(sweaty armpits til I circled back
to the strip with FULL right aileron and some top rudder) BB do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: enough already? |
BB and Gang:
Perfect weather to continue testing my Chilli Vest in the
basement. At 0730 it was 15F. That's cold. Especially when
I took a look at Alaska weather. Anaktuvuk, on the north
slope of the Brooks Range was 16F. A degree colder than
hauck's holler. Tonight they are forecasting a couple
inches of freezening rain and snow for central Alabama.
Merry Xmas!
john h
> John H. is ready to say "uncle"......have to scrape the frost off the
> Kolb
> windshield . BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: enough already? |
> Anaktuvuk, on the north
> slope of the Brooks Range was 16F. A degree colder than
> hauck's holler.
> john h
Sorry Gang:
Even after a cup of coffee and proof reading my post, I
still got it wrong. Must be this Arctic weather we are
having in the Hear of Dixie. Should have read: "it is a
degree colder in hauck's holler than in Anaktuvuk, Alaska,
this morning.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | LANDING ON SNOW COVER ICE |
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
WARNING
When landing on trackless snow, you have no depth of field. On a lake one
should fly along the shoreline to help to determine where the top of snow
is. Or fly in with power on descending slowly until you feel your skis touch
the snow.
We often will fly low over snow covered lakes just for the fun of it. Up
in the U.P. of MI and northern WI there are lots of small lakes/ ponds which
are not in heavy use so there are no tracks. One winter there was Bill
V.,(Firestar2) Aaron G.,(Firestar2) and myself(MK3) flying together to a
friend's place. We just had flown low over a nice looking pond, and I
decided to take a look around, so I took another pass. As I did a little
touch and go then cleared the trees and gained altitude, I saw Aaron up
head dropping into another lake for low pass. I saw him touching down, and
as I was getting closer I saw him stop. I flew over and noticed his tail was
sticking up off the ice. So I turned and landed and Bill came in behind me.
Aaron had nosed it right into the ice, (no depth of field) he had broken his
ski and cracked his nose cone. He filled his cockpit with snow from the top
of the ice as he skidded along. He was ok, but he said that the snow came in
and pushed on his feet till his knees touched his chest. It was in the
afternoon and it would be getting dark soon. So the 3 of use got Aaron's
plane over to the shore line where there was an old abandoned house. It was
the only house on the lake. We found out later that it was Al Capone's hide
out. So Aaron took his broken ski off and hopped in with me (MK3) and I took
him home. Aaron was able to return the next day and fix the plane (with duct
tape on the nose!) and fly it home.
Aaron has experience on skis so it can happen to the best of us.
Scott Trask
Iron Mt. MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | LANDING ON SNOW COVER ICE |
Good point--another thing I learned is one should consider every snow
landing or take off as a "soft field" landing and take off. Double Check
for ice and snow on all control surfaces including cables, hinges,
wires--remember it may be 32 degrees on the ground and 22 degrees at a
couple thousand feet. I have even gone up and down the runway a couple of
times to make a track for take off on deep powder snow. I see
snowmobilers use yellow glasses on overcast days.
Dale Seitzer
WARNING
When landing on trackless snow, you have no depth of field. On a lake one
should fly along the shoreline to help to determine where the top of snow
is. Or fly in with power on descending slowly until you feel your skis
touch
the snow.
We often will fly low over snow covered lakes just for the fun of it. Up
in the U.P. of MI and northern WI there are lots of small lakes/ ponds
which
are not in heavy use so there are no tracks. One winter there was Bill
V.,(Firestar2) Aaron G.,(Firestar2) and myself(MK3) flying together to a
friend's place. We just had flown low over a nice looking pond, and I
decided to take a look around, so I took another pass. As I did a little
touch and go then cleared the trees and gained altitude, I saw Aaron up
head dropping into another lake for low pass. I saw him touching down, and
as I was getting closer I saw him stop. I flew over and noticed his tail
was
sticking up off the ice. So I turned and landed and Bill came in behind me.
Aaron had nosed it right into the ice, (no depth of field) he had broken
his
ski and cracked his nose cone. He filled his cockpit with snow from the top
of the ice as he skidded along. He was ok, but he said that the snow came
in
and pushed on his feet till his knees touched his chest. It was in the
afternoon and it would be getting dark soon. So the 3 of use got Aaron's
plane over to the shore line where there was an old abandoned house. It was
the only house on the lake. We found out later that it was Al Capone's hide
out. So Aaron took his broken ski off and hopped in with me (MK3) and I
took
him home. Aaron was able to return the next day and fix the plane (with
duct
tape on the nose!) and fly it home.
Aaron has experience on skis so it can happen to the best of us.
Scott Trask
Iron Mt. MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: enough already? |
John,
We just got back from Marco Island, FL. Sunday night. We had a week of 85
degree weather and I did not want to leave. Came back to -32 wind chill
(the Windy City). We had 5" of snow Monday (in addition to the 15" already
on the ground), and it is snowing again and we are expecting another 4",
and winter does not officially begin until tomorrow!!!!!
I have had my Kolb Mark III for 1 month and have yet to fly it here in the
frozen tundra of northern Illinois.
I talked with some relatives in central Florida and they woke to 35
degrees. El Nino - where are you when we need you???????
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar II for Sale |
A friend of mine who is not on this list has decided he wants to sell his
Firestar II. He lives near Morristown, TN and his phone number is
865-993-2144.
The plane is fully assembled, has powder coated metal parts, an EIS system
and a Rotax 503 DCDI. The engine has never been started and the plane never
flown. It is white with Aerothane paint. He is asking $13,500.
Vince Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks everyone |
The design of the Kolb is very robust and elevator cable loads are very
modest. I believe you could tear out the stick before you could break a
cable to the elevator. If you have installed the cables correctly, and you
preflight to check cable ends clevises and pins, you should not worry about
separation. If you have doubts, you can pull your cables once a year and
visually inspect them. Why add unnecessary weight?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
Dennis and All,
In the UK we have a Rotax 912 under going trials using LPG fuel (this
is liquid propane gas)installed in a Rans S6 BE. I have an article on
this from our popular Flying Association magazine, if anybody is
interested I could scan the article and e-mail it or fax it.
Best regards,
Clive. Mk III / 582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis
Watson
Sent: 15 December 2000 18:02
Subject: Kolb-List: LNG or Propane
For all you guys that like to tinker, has anyone thought about using
propane
or LNG for an UL engine? Of course it what have to be a 4 stroke or
would
it? Do you think oil injection would work? I wonder what the burn
rate
would be and how long would the 5 gal. of propane or LNG last.
Dennis ( yep I followed a truck on base today that ran on LNG)
http://www.aero-sports.com/bb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
First off, I don't know how to spell Zenoah. Maybe some one could help.
The reason I asked is that I just learned of a new kit plane manufacturer
that is starting up about 10 miles from me. I went over there today to see
what they are doing. They are not in competition with Kolb. They are
building their first prototype. A low wing aluminum mono-plane to be
powered by a 100hp 912 Rotax. Twin boom with a ducted fan pusher. The
reason for this post is that the owner showed me a 46 or 47hp twin carb
Zen?? that he used on his old plane. He said it was in excellent condition.
Has a belt reduction and dual ignition. Price is $1500. Is this engine a
good choice for a FireStar and how does it compare in reliability to a Rotax
503? I am leaning towards a new 503 DCDI but I thought I would get some
thoughts from this list. If anyone else is interested in this engine, let
me know.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
FireStar builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skeeve(at)excellentproducts.com |
Hello all!! Happy Holidays!
Propane is an excellent engine fuel. It does not have quite as much energy
per gallon as Gasoline, however makes up for that in other ways. It burns
very, very cleanly... in a properly set up engine, the oil will appear to be
as clean after 100 hours as it was when you put it in. It becomes much more
atrractive to run a premium synthetic oil such as Mobil 1. I believe that
engine wear with propane and mobil 1 goes as close to 0 as it can possibly
get. Also, since propane is a compressed gas/liquid, no fuel pump is needed,
only a regulator/vaporizer. the carburetors are simpler too, being normally
referred to as an "air valve".
In order to take best advantage of LPG tho, the compression ratio of the
engine (one intended for use on unleaded fuel) should be raised a bit...
Propane is approximately 101 octane in comparison with premium unleaded
gasoline which is in the high 90s.
One drawback would be difficulty in finding a low weight, composite, wound
carbon fiber, fuel cylinder... the standard LPG cylinder would be quite abit
heavier than the standard gas tank for aircraft duty.
I have had a truck which ran exclusively on propane, and I really like it as
an engine fuel.. I would like to set up both of my current vehicles to
operate on it. I would seriously consider operating an aircraft on it, if
the few drawbacks could be resolved.
Be well all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | E-mail address change |
The cold rainey windy weather has reduced my flying opportunities to near
zero so I have utillized the indoor time to set up my new computer and change
ISPs. For anyone needing to contact me the new E-mail address is
'mitchmnd(at)msn.com'.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL FireFly SN007, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Noise barrier, boom tube support |
I brought the plane home for some upgrading and have accomplished the
following:
1/ Installed a foam plastic barrier on the back of my cockpit. My full
enclosure works fine but it was open just behind the pilot's seat which left
me open to a bad draft and lots of engine noise. The barrier is made of from
a camper's sleeping pad sold by Wal Mart. It is a blue that matches my paint
trim (sort of) about 1/2" thick and flexible. The hard part is getting a
tight fit at the top where the controls pass through to the engine. I will
report it's performance after my next flight. I saw this done on a FireStar
several weeks ago and it looked good.
The folding pedestal that supports my planes tail boom while trailering was
not carrying enough of the road impact loads. I removed it and made it
taller, added some 1" ID vinyl tubing over the steel saddle tubes and covered
that with some scraps of leftover Berber carpet. The pipe insulation
recommended in the original plans had packed so tightly that the steel bed
tubes were starting to show through and I was afraid that they could damage
the underside of the boom tube during transit. The new padding has raised the
saddle even further and the tail boom will now be firmly supported.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN007, 447, Ivo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/19/00 |
Re the questions on Elevator control with broken elevator cable. I own a
1946 Funk aircraft, certified 2 place Side by side, 85 HP. It uses 2 small
cables with two "screen door springs" in tension attached to both the up and
down elevator horn. The "trim crank" simply increases tension on the up or
down control. It is one of the smoothest trim systems I've ever flown with.
Even at cruise if you put in full up trim, it does nothing fast as the
airloads overcome the spring tension till the airspeed bleeds off, Just a
fantastic and simple system. If anybody is interested in specifics I can draw
a sketch or find a drawing of it in some of my old factory stuff.
Elbie
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngleTM
Elbie Mendenhall
President
EM aviation, LLC
13411 NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie WA 98606
Phone & Fax 360-260-0772
www.riteangle.com elbie(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00 |
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 12/21/00 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: LANDING ON SNOW COVER ICE
>
>
> Good point--another thing I learned is one should consider every snow
> landing or take off as a "soft field" landing and take off. Double Check
> for ice and snow on all control surfaces including cables, hinges,
> wires--remember it may be 32 degrees on the ground and 22 degrees at a
> couple thousand feet. I have even gone up and down the runway a couple of
> times to make a track for take off on deep powder snow. I see
> snowmobilers use yellow glasses on overcast days.
> Dale Seitzer
Hi Dale and Kolb list
Yellow glasses might be worth a try. Overcast days are the worst for depth
of field on snow when landing.
Yesterday I flew out and did a little ice fishing. On the ice there was 8
or10 in. of nice fluffy snow. The ice underneath the snow was smooth and
black around 6 in. thick. There were wet spots along the shore in a few
places. The fishing was good. The flags on the tip-ups where flapping in
the breeze. It started to snow a little, it was 17f. degrees and it was
getting late. So I pulled the lines and started up, engine warmed up, I
taxied down and as I turned, I went right through a wet spot. With slush on
my skis I took off. My left ski was full of wet snow, and it was hanging
down against the cable. I nosed it down, did it a few times. That usually
works, but it didn't this time. I opened my door, slid my arm through the
crack and pulled on the cable. The nose of the ski came up. Even if I had
to land that way, I think the ski would have road up on top off the snow ok.
Scott Trask MKIII
Iron Mountain, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00 |
Scott Trask,
Hi, I am in northern Illinois with my new (used) Mark III, sitting in my
barn waiting for spring ------ However, if I could take off and land on
snow, I would consider putting skis on the bird.
What did you use for skis? How much take off and landing distance do you
use in the winter with skis?
Thanks in advance
Mike H>
> [Original Message]
> From: Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
> To:
> Date: 12/21/00 10:46:48 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00
>
>
>
>
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00 |
Scott sounds like a ,as we say on cape cod a" real pisser" Ihave only flown
on skis twice made mine out of snow mobile skis never landed on the Ice but
thefishing part sounds like fun ! the closest thing I can compare is float
flying out to the clam flatsand digging some steamers , have fun Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pam & Scott Trask" <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00
>
> on 12/21/00 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at
> kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> >
> > From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
> > Subject: RE: Kolb-List: LANDING ON SNOW COVER ICE
> >
> >
> > Good point--another thing I learned is one should consider every snow
> > landing or take off as a "soft field" landing and take off. Double
Check
> > for ice and snow on all control surfaces including cables, hinges,
> > wires--remember it may be 32 degrees on the ground and 22 degrees at a
> > couple thousand feet. I have even gone up and down the runway a couple
of
> > times to make a track for take off on deep powder snow. I see
> > snowmobilers use yellow glasses on overcast days.
> > Dale Seitzer
>
> Hi Dale and Kolb list
> Yellow glasses might be worth a try. Overcast days are the worst for
depth
> of field on snow when landing.
> Yesterday I flew out and did a little ice fishing. On the ice there was
8
> or10 in. of nice fluffy snow. The ice underneath the snow was smooth and
> black around 6 in. thick. There were wet spots along the shore in a few
> places. The fishing was good. The flags on the tip-ups where flapping in
> the breeze. It started to snow a little, it was 17f. degrees and it was
> getting late. So I pulled the lines and started up, engine warmed up, I
> taxied down and as I turned, I went right through a wet spot. With slush
on
> my skis I took off. My left ski was full of wet snow, and it was hanging
> down against the cable. I nosed it down, did it a few times. That usually
> works, but it didn't this time. I opened my door, slid my arm through the
> crack and pulled on the cable. The nose of the ski came up. Even if I had
> to land that way, I think the ski would have road up on top off the snow
ok.
>
> Scott Trask MKIII
> Iron Mountain, MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/19/00 |
Elbie if it is not a lot of trouble I'd like to have a sketch or drawing for
my Firefly.
Thanks
Merle Hargis.
go5for4(at)aol.com
In a message dated 12/21/00 2:30:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, Elbie(at)aol.com
writes:
> If anybody is interested in specifics I can draw a sketch or find a drawing
> of it in some of my old factory stuff.
> Elbie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 12/20/00 |
In a message dated 12/21/2000 8:51:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
johndeereantique(at)uswest.net writes:
> just curious how do you carry an auger and if you use live bait so
> everything doesn't slosh around. and also what about a chisel? where to you
> store
>
Also, were do you stash all the fish on the return trip?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Listers,
I've scanned in Gary Aman's sketch of his elevator trim system. If any one
wants one email me on or off the list and I'll email it to you.
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
In a message dated 12/22/00 1:09:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I've scanned in Gary Aman's sketch of his elevator trim system. If any one
wants one email me on or off the list and I'll email it to you. >>
Geoff, I'd like to have the sketch.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
I FLY A 91 FS WOULD LIKE TO SEE YOUR PICTURES
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Ron
I think you'll have a very difficult time mounting it. Main thing is to
check the installed height of the trust line. With the belt drive it will
be quite high - greater CL-to-CL distances on the shafts. If you could turn
the drive down (instead of up), then you would be limited to a very small
propeller. I knew of a guy who purchased a new Zenoa for a FS-II and then
gave up and purchased a Rotax 503 for the above reason.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron or Mary
Payne
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 3:24 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Zenoah va Rotax
First off, I don't know how to spell Zenoah. Maybe some one could help.
The reason I asked is that I just learned of a new kit plane manufacturer
that is starting up about 10 miles from me. I went over there today to see
what they are doing. They are not in competition with Kolb. They are
building their first prototype. A low wing aluminum mono-plane to be
powered by a 100hp 912 Rotax. Twin boom with a ducted fan pusher. The
reason for this post is that the owner showed me a 46 or 47hp twin carb
Zen?? that he used on his old plane. He said it was in excellent condition.
Has a belt reduction and dual ignition. Price is $1500. Is this engine a
good choice for a FireStar and how does it compare in reliability to a Rotax
503? I am leaning towards a new 503 DCDI but I thought I would get some
thoughts from this list. If anyone else is interested in this engine, let
me know.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
FireStar builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erbonsell(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Original Firestar inboard wing rib |
I want to build a new set of wings for my original firestar. New Kolb
Aircraft informs me the original wing had a one and a quarter inch rear spar.
All the later wings have an inch and an eighth rear spar. According to them
the new inboard wing rib won't work on the original cage. Does anyony out
there have a set of original inboard wing ribs?
Thanks and Merry Christmas to all,
Ed Bonsell
Original firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Merry Christmas!!!!!!! |
Dear Gail & Dick,
Hope your ready for another Christmas. It's nice and cool here if you want
to join us.
Highs of twenty five degrees and lows on the single digits and we have snow
on the
ground. Picture perfect Christmas!! There's room at the inn.
I know your both still feeling the loss of Buddy which puts a damper on the
season.
We have gone through that too many times, yet we always find room for
another. I
know we will always have a place for our four legged family members. Who
else gives
you the unconditional love they bring?
Hope your both in good health and spirits, Merry Christmas from the frozen
North!!
Pat & Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Original Firestar inboard wing rib |
to be best of my recollection, all trailing edge tubes of all Kolb Aircraft
were 1-1/4" x .028 or .035.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Erbonsell(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 8:42 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Original Firestar inboard wing rib
I want to build a new set of wings for my original firestar. New Kolb
Aircraft informs me the original wing had a one and a quarter inch rear
spar.
All the later wings have an inch and an eighth rear spar. According to them
the new inboard wing rib won't work on the original cage. Does anyony out
there have a set of original inboard wing ribs?
Thanks and Merry Christmas to all,
Ed Bonsell
Original firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/19/00 |
It sounds very interesting to me! I would like to see you drawings and if
possible a picture I could post on the Net.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: <Elbie(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 11:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/19/00
>
> Re the questions on Elevator control with broken elevator cable. I own a
> 1946 Funk aircraft, certified 2 place Side by side, 85 HP. It uses 2
small
> cables with two "screen door springs" in tension attached to both the up
and
> down elevator horn. The "trim crank" simply increases tension on the up or
> down control. It is one of the smoothest trim systems I've ever flown
with.
> Even at cruise if you put in full up trim, it does nothing fast as the
> airloads overcome the spring tension till the airspeed bleeds off, Just a
> fantastic and simple system. If anybody is interested in specifics I can
draw
> a sketch or find a drawing of it in some of my old factory stuff.
> Elbie
>
>
> Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngleTM
>
> Elbie Mendenhall
> President
> EM aviation, LLC
> 13411 NE Prairie Rd
> Brush Prairie WA 98606
> Phone & Fax 360-260-0772
> www.riteangle.com elbie(at)aol.com
>
>
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
Merry Christmas to all and may you have a good tailwind and clear sky's.
Merle & Pilar Hargis
Orlando, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Tribute to Larry Bourne |
I have experienced a problem with connecting the Web Page I created to pay
tribute to Larry Bourne or LAR or Larry. I would like to have everyone see
it by Christmas. Larry's spirit of sharing has made the List a very nice
place to visit for me.
http://ultraliteinformation.homestead.com/Larry.html
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tribute to Larry Bourne |
I stand in awe ! ! ! I can't even get my 1st page off the ground, and look
what Julian's created. Julian, this is one fine Christmas present. Thank
You ! ! ! Last summer, Julian and I almost met, but my timing was
bad, going north thru Oregon, and we missed connections. Next year for
sure. I've started a "vacation contacts" file, and am including everybody
even remotely close to my route next year. Let me know where you live, and
I'll try very hard to make a stop. This year, and 2 yrs ago, I met some
very fine, very nice people in Arizona, California, Montana, and Utah, thru
the Kolb List, and look forward to meeting many more. Work on Vamoose is
progressing very steadily now, (except for covering) and I have high hopes
of flying it on my next vacation. Even with Julian's nice comments, I think
the biggest reason Vamoose is taking so long is just sheer
laziness.................but that's over now, honest. (Have I said that
before ??) Richard Neilsen gave me the idea for the picture as a background
for my website, but I'm just too dumb to figure out how to do it. He used a
pic of his Cobra sports car. Beautiful ! ! ! Three yrs or so ago,
I visited Ron Christensen, of Mk III 1/2 fame, in Orange County, CA. One
look at his gull wing doors, and I was hooked on the idea. I'm not real
hooked on the amount of effort required, but they sure came out nice. I
don't know if he was the 1st, but his was the 1st I saw, and his workmanship
all the way thru Mk III 1/2 was terrific. Many, many good ideas, and he
shared them freely, and as Julian says, that's the beauty of the List. In
fact, it was Ron who introduced me to the List, when I met him at the Air
Show at Corona, CA, 3 yrs ago, and it was a major factor in my decision to
buy a computer. Thanks Ron ! ! ! A comment or 3 about the engine
pics................the engine on the plane is a hollow "dummy" with new
accessories mounted, for noodling and brain burning. The "real" engine is
on the stand just below the muffler in the 2nd pic. The clear plastic tubes
were for setup, and layout only, and as of today, are gone. Finished the
braided steel fuel and oil lines today. Garsh, they're perty ! ! ! A
comment was made the other day about extra weight being unnecessary in the
doubled up elevator cables...............I guess you'll have to make your
own decisions about what is "necessary." Those cables are only 3/32", and
they're crimped very hard. A breakage is unlikely, but..................I
feel better, so the 2nd cable is there, on Vamoose, and "I" feel better, so
there they'll stay. Julian, Thank You, and have a very Merry
Christmas, and a very Merry Christmas to all of you out there in Kolb Land.
Choked Up Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 7:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tribute to Larry Bourne
>
> I have experienced a problem with connecting the Web Page I created to pay
> tribute to Larry Bourne or LAR or Larry. I would like to have everyone
see
> it by Christmas. Larry's spirit of sharing has made the List a very nice
> place to visit for me.
> http://ultraliteinformation.homestead.com/Larry.html
>
> Julian Warren
> Eugene, Oregon
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 12/23/00 |
wishing everyone a joyous and merry christmas. a special thanks goes out to
mr. & mrs. kolb, as without homer, this list would'nt exist. enjoy the
holidays and if you are lucky enough to continue flying through out the
winter, "safe flying"
bob griffin
mk 111
upstate n.y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
"TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE....
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp,
Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care
in hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
while peak gusts from two-zero reached 39 knots.
And I at the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
had just settled comfortable down on my butt.
When over the radio, there arose such a clatter,
I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
asked for clearance to land at the airport below.
He barked out his transmission so lively and quick,
I could have sworn that the call sign he used was "St.Nick".
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Sure that it was only Horizon's late Dash.
Then he called his position, and there could be no denial,
"This is St Nicholas One and I'm turning on final."
When what to my wondering eyes should appear,
A Rutan sleigh, and eight Rotax reindeer.
He flew the approach on glideslopes he came,
As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid! "What pills was he takin'?
Those last couple of fixes left controllers confused,
they called down to the office to give me the news,
The message they left was both urgent and Dour:
"When Santa lands, could he please call the tower?"
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
Then I heard "Exit at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
So up to the offices the coursers they flew,
with loud airplane noise, and St. Nicholas, too.
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
I had run out to him with my best set of chocks.
He was dressed all in fur, which was covered with frost
and his beard was all blackened from reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale
and he smoked on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
He had a broad face and his airpits were smelly,
and his boots were as black as a cropdusters belly.
He was chubby and plump, a right jolly old fool,
and he kindly informed me that he needed some fuel.
A wink of his eye and a twist of his toes,
led me to know he was desperate to powder his nose.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
and I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom with a sigh of relief,
and then picked up a phone for a flight service brief.
And I thought, as he silently scribed in his log,
That with Rudolph, he could land in eighth-mile fog.
Next, he completed his preflight, from the front to the rear,
then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-talk,
He called up the tower for his clearance and squawk.
"Straight out on two-zero," the tower called forth,
"and watch for a Cessna straight in from the North."
But I heard him exclaim, 'ere he climbed in the night,
Happy Christmas to all, I have traffic in sight."
Merry Christmas!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann Gestur <johann(at)caa.is> |
Kolb list
| Subject: | Merry Christmas from Santaland! |
Dear Friends on the list.
This is the season to be thankful and I would like to thank you all for
the support with all your building assistance. It is a difficult task to
build an aircraft up here in Santa land, with no other builders except
you on the list.
Your support is highly appreciated.
Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New flying/building year.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Kolb Firestar II flying.
Building Zenith 701. (150 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Grinchly Greetings! |
The Old Grey Barons Christmas Greetings & Wish List
Well, kiddies--and you few grown-ups--its time for another Christmas
(or whatever holiday rings yer bells) Greeting from Curmudgeon Central.
I send sincere--if you can imagine such a thing--good wishes to each and
every one of all the miscreants that inhabit this list. In spite of the
meanness, pettiness and general ness-ness that seems to be rampant
during certain times of non-flyingness, which unfortunately occurs at
the time of Christmas, and attendant poor weather in some venues, we all
gotta get along. But I still extend good will towards all
men/women/newbies/wanabes. We, a band of merry aviators, should put
aside our egos, our vast (and those with only half) store of knowledge,
and our proclivity for antagonism and character assassination. In other
words, Good Will Towards All Men (and remember, there are some ladies
here), not only at this Time, but at those Times in future that we hope
to see. In other words, lets all lay down the axes.
and frankly I never do. And xoxos to the ladies who thought I was coming
on to them--just trying--there may be snow on the roof, but theres
still steam in the old boiler house. And a 10 gal bag of coal to the
guys who argy-bargy until there are a dozen refs in the header, and
repeat the entire score of the verbal shoving match in each rebuttal.
Lighten way up.Disclaimer Not.
And finally, to those kind souls ( two, maybe three) who have bought
either/both my books, many thanks. The State Store thanks you, too.
Curmudgeonly yers,
Bob-The Grey Baron-Noyer
Winchester, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas from Santaland! |
Johann, we're only a click away from you, and about 3 time zones. I figure
winter is fairly severe up there, but summer flying hours have got to be
great! Merry Christmas! G. Aman FS2 Just south of Cleveland Ohio.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas from Santaland! |
In a message dated 12/24/00 7:04:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ZepRep251(at)aol.com writes:
> Johann, we're only a click away from you, and about 3 time zones. I figure
> winter is fairly severe up there, but summer flying hours have got to be
> great! Merry Christmas! G. Aman FS2 Just south of Cleveland Ohio.
>
>
G. Aman, you accidently sent this to me, but I DO Want to wish you and yours
a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year...or ..millenium...
Gotta see your plane someday when it gets a bit warmer, I suppose...
GeoR38..George Randolph, Akron, Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb flyer/builders |
Merry Christmas Kolb flyers/builders!!!!
It's great to be part of a network of flyers/builders who share their
knowledge, intelligence, and experiences with others to keep "Sport"
Aviation ALIVE!!!
Whenever I hear an Ultralight fly over my house I hear the SOUND OF
FREEDOM.
May the New Year be FUN and SAFE for all of us Aviators.
Bill and Anna Vincent
Kolb Firestar II
Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas from Santaland! |
Merry christmas to all you little Kolbers out there. A happy and safe
flying 2001 ? 2001 remember how far away that once sounded? Chris from cape
cod Ma.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Merry Christmas from Santaland!
>
> In a message dated 12/24/00 7:04:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ZepRep251(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
> > Johann, we're only a click away from you, and about 3 time zones. I
figure
> > winter is fairly severe up there, but summer flying hours have got to be
> > great! Merry Christmas! G. Aman FS2 Just south of Cleveland Ohio.
> >
> >
>
> G. Aman, you accidently sent this to me, but I DO Want to wish you and
yours
> a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year...or ..millenium...
> Gotta see your plane someday when it gets a bit warmer, I suppose...
> GeoR38..George Randolph, Akron, Oh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas from Santaland! |
Sorry about that George. One of these days I'll get this thing figured out.
If it ain't blow'in tomorrow, I might just take the day off and fly some.
Merry Christmas! G. Aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELEVATOR TRIM |
Thanks, G. Aman, for the sketch for the elevator trim.
I modified it some to give up as well as down trim and it worked great.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Any tips on bending the brackets ("D") for the horizontal stabilizer on the
Mark III. It says to use 1/32 bend radius for the right angle bend. Is
bending over the edge of a 2x4 OK? I would guess that it would have that
approximate radius since they do not have a sharp corner on them.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
Starting my Mark IIIXtra tomorrow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bending gusset |
Is
> bending over the edge of a 2x4 OK?
> Clay Stuart
Clay:
That should work.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELEVATOR TRIM |
Shack, can you share with me how you made it work? Mine required forward
pressure at all times so it was easier to make. Thanx G.Aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: bending gusset |
I found some magnetic, rubber faced soft jaws for my bench vise that worked
really good for those bends.G.Aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Listers,
I have been studying the picture that Will posted of Gary's elevator trim
and I have questions concerning it. It appears that since the spring is
actually attached to the lower cable the mechanics of push pull have been
comprimsed. By the use of a spring on the lower cable under certain
conditions the spring might allow the air flowing over the tail surfaces to
have a stronger input than the forward or aft position of the stick. The
concept looks great on paper and in straight and level flight would
probably work just great. It would seem to me that the 2 cables from the
elevator should both attach to the bellcrank and the spring adjustment
mechanism should apply tension to on or the other arms. This way the push
pull control of the elevator remains intact. Input appreciated.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Thistlethwaite [mailto:geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
Listers,
I've scanned in Gary Aman's sketch of his elevator trim system. If any one
wants one email me on or off the list and I'll email it to you.
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Good morning Big Lar and Kolbers:
Ate so much yesterday, can hardly type this morning.
Fingers are too fat..........
I have a small trim wheel mounted just ahead of the
throttle. Brother Jim designed and fabricated it. Allows
for infinite adjustment nose up or down. After we flew the
airplane we realized we didn't need any nose down trim.
That is normal for all the MK III's I have flown. The 1/16
cable connects to the up and down side of the elevator bell
crank at the front of the tail boom, with tiny screw type
caribiners and clevis's attached to two heavy springs (nose
up)(trim spring used in the MK III kit), and a light spring
for the nose down cable. We use a single continuous cable
with a few wraps around the trim wheel drum. Fabricated the
trim wheel out of instrument panel cut outs (two) and an
aircraft pulley, a couple 3/16 bolts, and some 1/2" or so,
aluminum rod drilled and taped for 3/16 28 bolts. Would
have made the wheel larger had room for it permitted. I'll
see if I can dig out some pics and post on my web page.
I also have concern for reliability of of the up elevator
cable. To make me feel better, I used a 1/8 inch cable for
up and 3/32 for down. The most important procedure for me
is the swaging of the nicropress fittings. This has to be
done correctly, then checked with a "go/no go" gauge. If
you do not have a gauge, get one. It is the only way to
insure you have compressed the sleeve enough. It is
possible to swage the sleeves 90 deg out if you are not
familiar with the procedure. Why do I know this? Because I
did every one of the sleeves on my Ultrastar that way.
Luckily my Brother Jim came up to hauck's holler before I
test flew the Ultrastar. He picked up my mistake
immediately. Of note for rigging cables: Make sure you
leave at least a 3/16" tail, or whatever the book calls for,
sticking out the last sleeve. A lot of people, including
Eipper, leave the trailing end inside because it is neater
and cleaner. This is a no/no. With the tail of the cable
inside the sleeve, as the sleeve is compressed the load on
the tail end acts as a shear on the other cable it is being
pressed into it.
Time for my second cup of coffee. Better proof read the
above so I know what I tried to say.
BTW: Today I start getting Miss P'fer ready to load up and
haul to Woodville, Florida, Thursday, for a new set of
legs. While we are down a Brother Jim's we will also
reinvent the seat frames, change the angles of them and beef
them up somewhat. It is also a good time to inspect the
airframe for any hairline cracks or problems that may have
been overlooked in the past 8 years.
Take care,
john h
> I think it was Will Uribe. I especially liked the one with the trim wheel.
> Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
John, I guess I'm a bit dense this morning, but I am unable to understand
your message. I looked at the trim pictures last week and thought it odd to
apply spring tension to the DOWN ear of the elevator horn.
Airplanes are designed to be slightly nose-heavy, so the trim should be
arranged to help hold the nose up, not pull it down. If somehow you lost
elevator control you would find yourself doing outside loops on the way
down.
I posted this earlier, but not response from anyone on the list. I figured
I had misunderstood the theory, and dropped it when no one explained it to
me.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Wood, John T. <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Listers,
>
> I have been studying the picture that Will posted of Gary's elevator trim
> and I have questions concerning it. It appears that since the spring is
> actually attached to the lower cable the mechanics of push pull have been
> comprimsed. By the use of a spring on the lower cable under certain
> conditions the spring might allow the air flowing over the tail surfaces
to
> have a stronger input than the forward or aft position of the stick. The
> concept looks great on paper and in straight and level flight would
> probably work just great. It would seem to me that the 2 cables from the
> elevator should both attach to the bellcrank and the spring adjustment
> mechanism should apply tension to on or the other arms. This way the push
> pull control of the elevator remains intact. Input appreciated.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Thistlethwaite [mailto:geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 9:52 AM
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've scanned in Gary Aman's sketch of his elevator trim system. If any one
> wants one email me on or off the list and I'll email it to you.
>
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Tube saddles where the door latches rub. |
Kolbers,
I am trying to figure out how to bend the aluminum or lexan sadles that
fit over the 5/8 tubing where the door latches rub. I saw a couple real
nice jobs on enclosures at the Fly-in, but am having a hard time making
my saddles look good.
I would like to make aluminum and lexan ones so I can choose which ones
look better after the bird is painted.
Any tips?
Denny Rowe
Mark-3 PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube saddles where the door latches rub. |
> I would like to make aluminum and lexan ones so I can choose which ones
> look better after the bird is painted.
> Any tips?
> Denny Rowe
Denny and Gang:
We made saddles/striker plates from .032 aluminum sheet.
Bent it around a tube smaller than the top longeron so it
would fit nice and snug when put in place. Left an inch or
so inside and trimmed it up close and short outside.
Attached with two 1/8" rivets.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
In a message dated 12/26/00 11:28:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ron.carroll(at)att.net writes:
<< John, I guess I'm a bit dense this morning, but I am unable to understand
your message. I looked at the trim pictures last week and thought it odd to
apply spring tension to the DOWN ear of the elevator horn.
Airplanes are designed to be slightly nose-heavy, so the trim should be
arranged to help hold the nose up, not pull it down. If somehow you lost
elevator control you would find yourself doing outside loops on the way
down. >>
Ron, my Firestar will fly hands-off at about 60 mph, but if I want to go 70
mph I must hold forward stick [down elevator] to keep the plane from going
up; this gets tiresome on a long cross-country- hence the "down" elevator
trim. If I "loose elevator control" I would simply dial out the down trim
before I decrease my throttle.
I actually built my elevator trim to adjust infinitely up or down-works
great.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
It appeared from looking at the drawing the lower elevator cable was passing
through the clevis attached to the bellcrank assembly and then to the
adjustment mechanism for the the elevator trim. If it is not and it attached
to second clevis on the side of the bellcrank Gary's elevator system will
work just fine. The issue may be which end of the bellcrank to attach the
trim cable, which tendency your particular aircraft has, up or down. I am
the one dense this morning trying to explain something incorrectly that you
already understood.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron [mailto:ron.carroll(at)att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
John, I guess I'm a bit dense this morning, but I am unable to understand
your message. I looked at the trim pictures last week and thought it odd to
apply spring tension to the DOWN ear of the elevator horn.
Airplanes are designed to be slightly nose-heavy, so the trim should be
arranged to help hold the nose up, not pull it down. If somehow you lost
elevator control you would find yourself doing outside loops on the way
down.
I posted this earlier, but not response from anyone on the list. I figured
I had misunderstood the theory, and dropped it when no one explained it to
me.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Wood, John T. <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
> Listers,
>
> I have been studying the picture that Will posted of Gary's elevator trim
> and I have questions concerning it. It appears that since the spring is
> actually attached to the lower cable the mechanics of push pull have been
> comprimsed. By the use of a spring on the lower cable under certain
> conditions the spring might allow the air flowing over the tail surfaces
to
> have a stronger input than the forward or aft position of the stick. The
> concept looks great on paper and in straight and level flight would
> probably work just great. It would seem to me that the 2 cables from the
> elevator should both attach to the bellcrank and the spring adjustment
> mechanism should apply tension to on or the other arms. This way the push
> pull control of the elevator remains intact. Input appreciated.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Thistlethwaite [mailto:geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 9:52 AM
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Trim
>
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've scanned in Gary Aman's sketch of his elevator trim system. If any one
> wants one email me on or off the list and I'll email it to you.
>
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim |
Ron, Actually the trim is used to neutralize stick imput.My FS requires
forward stick in level flight, no doubt a testament to my building skills or
lack there of. The pressures required on the elevator remain unchanged, it's
just that the spring holds the tension, not my wrist. If anyone has a thought
as to why I'm so far out of rig and has any suggestions, let me know G.Aman
FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I have been able to stay warm when flying except for one thing - the air
comes through the door hinges right onto my face. Does anyone know how
to solve this?
Jim
MK III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bending gusset |
>
>Any tips on bending the brackets ("D") for the horizontal stabilizer on the
>Mark III. It says to use 1/32 bend radius for the right angle bend. Is
>bending over the edge of a 2x4 OK? I would guess that it would have that
>approximate radius since they do not have a sharp corner on them.
>
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>Starting my Mark IIIXtra tomorrow
Getting the radius too large should not be a problem. Going too small
risks a fatigue fracture starting in the bend. If bending with a hammer do
not try to do it all with one smack of the hammer. "Horizontal stabilizer?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
Jim Minewiser wrote:
>
>
> I have been able to stay warm when flying except for one thing - the air
> comes through the door hinges right onto my face. Does anyone know how
> to solve this?
>
> Jim
> MK III
> Charlotte, NC
>
tape them !!!!!
ole
mk 2 in norway
======================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tube saddles where the door latches rub. |
It's a lot easier to use a piece of material that's quite a bit longer than
you need. Gives you a longer lever arm. Then trim it back to finished
dimension. On the lexan, take your time, use a heat gun..........with GREAT
care..........and it'll bend right around. A real strong grip, and a pair
of heavy gloves help a lot. You don't really want to know how much extra
money I spent because of impatience, and overheated lexan. Be careful, and
it'll go right where you want it. Aluminum is much easier to work with.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 8:37 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube saddles where the door latches rub.
>
> Kolbers,
> I am trying to figure out how to bend the aluminum or lexan sadles that
> fit over the 5/8 tubing where the door latches rub. I saw a couple real
> nice jobs on enclosures at the Fly-in, but am having a hard time making
> my saddles look good.
> I would like to make aluminum and lexan ones so I can choose which ones
> look better after the bird is painted.
> Any tips?
> Denny Rowe
> Mark-3 PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
> tape them !!!!!
>
> ole
> mk 2 in norway
Ole and Kolbers:
Absolutely correct. I put some bookbinding tape, I
scrounged from the Kolb Factory last May, on mine, blocking
out most of the draft. However, I lost a lot of cooling
capacity when the weather really warmed up. Was thinking
about adding another pop vent to each door, but decided to
fly higher and cooler instead. When I got up into northern
Canada last summer and the temps started coming down, that
extra sealing helped keep my unheated cabin a little
warmer. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 12:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Staying warm
>
> I have been able to stay warm when flying except for one thing - the air
> comes through the door hinges right onto my face. Does anyone know how
> to solve this?
>
> Jim
> MK III
> Charlotte, NC
>
> Jim: I bought some 3 inch wide clear plastic tape at Ace Hardware and
laid it lengthways along the hinge line and that solved the problem for me.
It flexes with the hinge and keeps the cold air out. Jim Benson MK III
Glencoe MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long tale of woe |
| From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
2000) at 12/27/2000 01:32:57 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 12/27/2000 01:24:04 PM,
Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 12/27/2000 01:24:08 PM,
Serialize complete at 12/27/2000 01:24:08 PM
dKolbers:
I havent been on the List for quite awhile, and thought I would share with
you why, in hopes that someone could avoid my mistakes.
I have a mrk III with a 912. Several months ago I went to fly and found
the oil level to be off the end of the dip stick. While there was no
obvious indication of oil leakage, I certainly wasnt going to risk running
the engine with no oil, so I added oil (a lot) to get it up to normal. I
then flew the plane twice around the pattern with no problems, but stopped
to check the dipstick again to make sure all was well. After landing I
taxiied over as close to the edge of the ramp as I could to get close to my
trailer, and then spun the plane around to be set when I headed back out
again. The edge of the ramp is marked by series of short fence posts, so I
carefully watched my wing tip for clearance when I spun around. The wing
cleared fine. Too bad I didnt take into consideration my tail feathers.
Ouch! Leading edge of horizotal stabilizer badly bent in, with other edges
tweaked in response. The damage to my ego was much worse. Oh yeah -
after collecting myself I finally did check the oil. A you may have
guessed, it was way overfilled. As I found out later, it is fairly common
for the oil in the tank to get by a little ball checkvalve at the oil pump
and drain down into the crank case when the plane sits still for awhile.
No big deal there - just need to undertand this, check oil level with the
engine warm, and keep a close eye on oil pressure when starting.
Well, I brought the bird home and started to figure out how to rebuild the
tail, cover it, and paint it. I also thought I would take adavantage of
the down time and replace my instrument panel and gauges and install an
EIS. Did all that, learning as I went, making every mistake that there is
to make, but finally getting something I could live with. Had three or
four functions on the EIS that werent working after inital installation of
the EIS. Trouble shot each, eventually fixing a bad connection for each
of them except the oil pressure function, which completely stumped me.
Talked to the EIS manufacturer (a VERY helpful and accomodating guy) and
eventually we decided that my existing oil pressure sensor was incompatible
with the EIS. At this point, I was starting to feel pretty good, and was
getting really antsy to get back in the air.
Started checking things in preparation for returning to the airport, and
tried to hand crank the prop. Completely locked up. In a panic I called
the mechanics at Lockwood, and at their suggestion, popped out the spark
plugs one by one. When I removed the plug from the number 1 cylinder. It
gushed out oil. With all my repair work, I had overlooked the original
mistake - overfilling with oil. I dont understand the details, but
obviously, over time, the oil in an overfilled engine can get by some seals
and into the cylinders. I breathed a sigh of relief. All I had to do was
get my oil level down, clean up my mess, and the engine would run, cleaning
out the cylinder on its own.
Unfortunately, there is more to the story. Not wanting to live with oil
that always drained into the crank case when sitting, I started futzing
around trying to fix this. First I opened up the check valve port on the
bottom of the oil pump. A little spring popped out. I then gently probed
inside with the end of a q-tip (bad choice of tools!) hopping to re-seat
the ball that I couldnt see but envisioned being up in there. Realizing I
didnt really know what the hell I was doing, I then replaced the spring and
closed it up before I screwed anything up. The other thing I checked was
the interior of the oil tank. Disassemled that, and to my amazement, found
a thin, circular bafffle that fits inside the tank had completely broken
off its welds, and was just sitting in there loose. By the way the metal
had broken, it looked to me like bits of loose metal could have gotten into
the oil system (other 912 owners may want to check your oil tank for a
similar problem), preventing the check valve from functioning properly. I
was sure that this was the root of my oil draining problem.
After repairs, thinking I had everything figured out and under control, I
took the bird to the airport to fire it up, verify that my EIS oil pressure
function was fixed with the new sensor, and hopefully fly. The eingine
started up fine, and sounded great. Damn! The oil pressure on the EIS
still wasnt working. Its reading zero!. Double checked all the electrical
connections and ran it again. No change. Called the EIS guy and did more
trouble shooting - no success. Noticed the engine feels extra rough and
tight on shut down. Hmmm, wonder what that could be.....Say, now it doesnt
sound good at all, and is real tight when I hand prop it after shut
down....
OK lets wrap this up and get to the part you all know is coming anyway.
it SLOWLY dawned on me that I had actually fixed the EIS perfectly by
putting in the new oil presure sensor. It was working just fine. That
rough and tight engine now hit me like a ton of bricks.The fact is, I
really did have zero oil pressure. Well duh....! Took me a week just to
come to grips with it and tell anybody about it. Bright side: I wasnt
stupid enough to actually fly the the plane when the gauge said zero oil
pressure.
Well, pulled the engine off, which included yanking all that EIS wiring I
had spent so much time on, and shipped it all off to Lockwood for a look
see. (Sent it motor freight in an original rotax reinforced box. The
mechanics tell me that when it arrived, the whole top of the box was gone;
only the botttom where the engine is bolted down was left. Fortunately no
damage except the carburators were torn of at the flange. Scary though!
Guess that insurance is worth it...)
Assessment: crankshaft must be replaced, likewise for the ignition
housing, where a bering was damaged. Cause: The checkvalve ball was
MISSING from the oil pump. I never saw it, but apparently I dropped and
lost it in the 2 minutes I had spent probing into the check valve port.
Repair bill estimate: $5,200. Ouch again. At least this time I new it was
coming.
After considering everything and talking to the wife, I decided to trade
the engine in and get a new 912S (Is there a reason to get the 912 instead
of the 912S? Not all that much more money). Lockwood gave me $2000 for the
damaged engine on the trade in.
While excited by the new engine, I feel very undeserving. I am very
fortunate to even be able to afford this, and know there are many others
with far more knowledge and skill than me that will likely never be able to
enjoy the 912 because of the cost.
Got the new engine the other day, and installation is going smoothly so
far. With all the hard lessons Ive learned since I started ultralihgt
training two years ago, I think my mechanic skills have grown far more than
my flying skills. Probably not a surprise to you old timers.
Is there lesson in all this? Probably many. The biggest one for me is that
I will now only work on one thing at a time on the airplane, and complete
it before moving on. I will also not get locked into one possible
explanation for a problem. One must consider multiple causes and evaluate
the consequences of being wrong!
Happy Holidays all. Sorry for the long windedness.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 12/26/00 |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 12/27/00 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> From: "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Staying warm
>
>
> I have been able to stay warm when flying except for one thing - the air
> comes through the door hinges right onto my face. Does anyone know how
> to solve this?
>
> Jim
> MK III
> Charlotte, NC
>
>
>
duct tape quick fix.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long tale of woe |
Erich:
Thanks for your information. There are a lot of lessons to
be learned by all of us by sharing your mistakes.
Thanks,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long tale of woe |
----- Original Message -----
From: <erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 12:32 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Long tale of woe
>
>
> dKolbers:
>
> I havent been on the List for quite awhile, and thought I would share with
> you why, in hopes that someone could avoid my mistakes.
>
Erich,
This is why we have the list, so that when we do something dumb we can tell
everyone about it!
Geoff "everyone on the list knows my dumba** mistakes too" Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
i had the same problem. solved it by putting some
inexpensive closed cell foam ( bought at the local lumber
store normally used for sealing around doors and windows
come in a roll about 3/8 inch wide) been flying in 30
deg at the surface who knows what temp at 7500 ft. to
get over the hills. for an hour at a time with a light
jacket and cotton gloves.
boyd northern utah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
Thanks to John and all the others who replied! John, is TNK the best or only
place to get the bookbinding tape?
Jim
MK III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Staying warm
>
>
> > tape them !!!!!
> >
> > ole
> > mk 2 in norway
>
>
> Ole and Kolbers:
>
> Absolutely correct. I put some bookbinding tape, I
> scrounged from the Kolb Factory last May, on mine, blocking
> out most of the draft. However, I lost a lot of cooling
> capacity when the weather really warmed up. Was thinking
> about adding another pop vent to each door, but decided to
> fly higher and cooler instead. When I got up into northern
> Canada last summer and the temps started coming down, that
> extra sealing helped keep my unheated cabin a little
> warmer. :-)
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
John, is TNK the best or only
> place to get the bookbinding tape?
>
> Jim
Jim and Gang:
Probably get it locally. I sweet talked Travis at TNK out
of a roll when I was getting ready to go to Alaska last
Spring.
BTW: Miss P'fer is loaded in the trailer, ready to depart
for Woodville, Florida, in the morning. We'll be down there
for several days repairing landing gear, redoing seat frames
and anything else that needs to be welded up while we are
down there. All the material is on hand to finish up the MK
III. When I get home will begin repair work on left wing
and aileron. Will also pull fabric from both wings,
ailerons, and flaps, Recover, dope and paint. Should be
flying again before too long. Less than six months til time
to go to Barrow. Getting antsy already. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long tale of woe |
Erick,
Your honesty is COMMENDABLE!!!!! By being so honest, it may help other
avoid the problems you have had and it may even prevent an injury or death.
I thank you!!!!!!
When I get some time, I will relate my story about my new (used) Mark III
and all I have gone through up to this point and I have only had the
opportunity to test fly it!!!!
Mike H.
> [Original Message]
> From: <erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com>
> To:
> Date: 12/27/00 12:48:16 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Long tale of woe
>
>
>
> dKolbers:
>
> I havent been on the List for quite awhile, and thought I would share with
> you why, in hopes that someone could avoid my mistakes.
>
> I have a mrk III with a 912. Several months ago I went to fly and found
> the oil level to be off the end of the dip stick. While there was no
> obvious indication of oil leakage, I certainly wasnt going to risk running
> the engine with no oil, so I added oil (a lot) to get it up to normal. I
> then flew the plane twice around the pattern with no problems, but stopped
> to check the dipstick again to make sure all was well. After landing I
> taxiied over as close to the edge of the ramp as I could to get close to
my
> trailer, and then spun the plane around to be set when I headed back out
> again. The edge of the ramp is marked by series of short fence posts, so
I
> carefully watched my wing tip for clearance when I spun around. The wing
> cleared fine. Too bad I didnt take into consideration my tail feathers.
> Ouch! Leading edge of horizotal stabilizer badly bent in, with other
edges
> tweaked in response. The damage to my ego was much worse. Oh yeah -
> after collecting myself I finally did check the oil. A you may have
> guessed, it was way overfilled. As I found out later, it is fairly common
> for the oil in the tank to get by a little ball checkvalve at the oil pump
> and drain down into the crank case when the plane sits still for awhile.
> No big deal there - just need to undertand this, check oil level with the
> engine warm, and keep a close eye on oil pressure when starting.
>
> Well, I brought the bird home and started to figure out how to rebuild the
> tail, cover it, and paint it. I also thought I would take adavantage of
> the down time and replace my instrument panel and gauges and install an
> EIS. Did all that, learning as I went, making every mistake that there is
> to make, but finally getting something I could live with. Had three or
> four functions on the EIS that werent working after inital installation of
> the EIS. Trouble shot each, eventually fixing a bad connection for each
> of them except the oil pressure function, which completely stumped me.
> Talked to the EIS manufacturer (a VERY helpful and accomodating guy) and
> eventually we decided that my existing oil pressure sensor was
incompatible
> with the EIS. At this point, I was starting to feel pretty good, and was
> getting really antsy to get back in the air.
>
> Started checking things in preparation for returning to the airport, and
> tried to hand crank the prop. Completely locked up. In a panic I called
> the mechanics at Lockwood, and at their suggestion, popped out the spark
> plugs one by one. When I removed the plug from the number 1 cylinder. It
> gushed out oil. With all my repair work, I had overlooked the original
> mistake - overfilling with oil. I dont understand the details, but
> obviously, over time, the oil in an overfilled engine can get by some
seals
> and into the cylinders. I breathed a sigh of relief. All I had to do was
> get my oil level down, clean up my mess, and the engine would run,
cleaning
> out the cylinder on its own.
>
> Unfortunately, there is more to the story. Not wanting to live with oil
> that always drained into the crank case when sitting, I started futzing
> around trying to fix this. First I opened up the check valve port on the
> bottom of the oil pump. A little spring popped out. I then gently probed
> inside with the end of a q-tip (bad choice of tools!) hopping to re-seat
> the ball that I couldnt see but envisioned being up in there. Realizing I
> didnt really know what the hell I was doing, I then replaced the spring
and
> closed it up before I screwed anything up. The other thing I checked was
> the interior of the oil tank. Disassemled that, and to my amazement,
found
> a thin, circular bafffle that fits inside the tank had completely broken
> off its welds, and was just sitting in there loose. By the way the metal
> had broken, it looked to me like bits of loose metal could have gotten
into
> the oil system (other 912 owners may want to check your oil tank for a
> similar problem), preventing the check valve from functioning properly. I
> was sure that this was the root of my oil draining problem.
>
> After repairs, thinking I had everything figured out and under control, I
> took the bird to the airport to fire it up, verify that my EIS oil
pressure
> function was fixed with the new sensor, and hopefully fly. The eingine
> started up fine, and sounded great. Damn! The oil pressure on the EIS
> still wasnt working. Its reading zero!. Double checked all the
electrical
> connections and ran it again. No change. Called the EIS guy and did more
> trouble shooting - no success. Noticed the engine feels extra rough and
> tight on shut down. Hmmm, wonder what that could be.....Say, now it
doesnt
> sound good at all, and is real tight when I hand prop it after shut
> down....
>
> OK lets wrap this up and get to the part you all know is coming anyway.
> it SLOWLY dawned on me that I had actually fixed the EIS perfectly by
> putting in the new oil presure sensor. It was working just fine. That
> rough and tight engine now hit me like a ton of bricks.The fact is, I
> really did have zero oil pressure. Well duh....! Took me a week just to
> come to grips with it and tell anybody about it. Bright side: I wasnt
> stupid enough to actually fly the the plane when the gauge said zero oil
> pressure.
>
> Well, pulled the engine off, which included yanking all that EIS wiring I
> had spent so much time on, and shipped it all off to Lockwood for a look
> see. (Sent it motor freight in an original rotax reinforced box. The
> mechanics tell me that when it arrived, the whole top of the box was gone;
> only the botttom where the engine is bolted down was left. Fortunately no
> damage except the carburators were torn of at the flange. Scary though!
> Guess that insurance is worth it...)
>
> Assessment: crankshaft must be replaced, likewise for the ignition
> housing, where a bering was damaged. Cause: The checkvalve ball was
> MISSING from the oil pump. I never saw it, but apparently I dropped and
> lost it in the 2 minutes I had spent probing into the check valve port.
> Repair bill estimate: $5,200. Ouch again. At least this time I new it was
> coming.
>
> After considering everything and talking to the wife, I decided to trade
> the engine in and get a new 912S (Is there a reason to get the 912 instead
> of the 912S? Not all that much more money). Lockwood gave me $2000 for
the
> damaged engine on the trade in.
>
> While excited by the new engine, I feel very undeserving. I am very
> fortunate to even be able to afford this, and know there are many others
> with far more knowledge and skill than me that will likely never be able
to
> enjoy the 912 because of the cost.
>
> Got the new engine the other day, and installation is going smoothly so
> far. With all the hard lessons Ive learned since I started ultralihgt
> training two years ago, I think my mechanic skills have grown far more
than
> my flying skills. Probably not a surprise to you old timers.
>
> Is there lesson in all this? Probably many. The biggest one for me is
that
> I will now only work on one thing at a time on the airplane, and complete
> it before moving on. I will also not get locked into one possible
> explanation for a problem. One must consider multiple causes and evaluate
> the consequences of being wrong!
>
> Happy Holidays all. Sorry for the long windedness.
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long tale of woe |
Is there lesson in all this? Probably many. The biggest one for me is that
I will now only work on one thing at a time on the airplane, and complete
it before moving on. I will also not get locked into one possible
explanation for a problem. One must consider multiple causes and evaluate
the consequences of being wrong!
Happy Holidays all. Sorry for the long windedness.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
One lesson to learn here and this one has cost me money in the past. No
matter how good of a mechanic you are , get ALL the information BEFORE you
get out the wrenches. The first tool you need to get out is the service
manual , with exploded view diagrams. A second choice would be a trusted
mechanic friend that had been there and down that before. Like our friend
Erich just showed us , this can be expensive and dangerous....and I don't
mean just in the air when it quits. Ever pulled apart some kind of hub with
a spring inside that you didn't "THINK" would be loaded with the much
pressure??? My $.02 worth...
So sorry to hear of you lessons there Erich , good luck and above all BE
CAREFUL!!!
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
Book binding tape is available at most stationary stores. It is 3-M #845,
in 3" & 1.5", plus some other width. I used it to for the aileron/flap gap
seals on my Firestar & Mark-3. VERY COOL!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Minewiser <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Staying warm
>
> Thanks to John and all the others who replied! John, is TNK the best or
only
> place to get the bookbinding tape?
>
> Jim
> MK III
> Charlotte, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 10:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Staying warm
>
>
> >
> >
> > > tape them !!!!!
> > >
> > > ole
> > > mk 2 in norway
> >
> >
> > Ole and Kolbers:
> >
> > Absolutely correct. I put some bookbinding tape, I
> > scrounged from the Kolb Factory last May, on mine, blocking
> > out most of the draft. However, I lost a lot of cooling
> > capacity when the weather really warmed up. Was thinking
> > about adding another pop vent to each door, but decided to
> > fly higher and cooler instead. When I got up into northern
> > Canada last summer and the temps started coming down, that
> > extra sealing helped keep my unheated cabin a little
> > warmer. :-)
> >
> > john h
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
Check your local library. We used it all the time when I worked in a
public library.
Or do a web search for lbrary supplies.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Slingshot for Sale |
I have an offer to trade a mint condition '69 Mustang 428 Cobra Jet (worth
$20-$25k) for my Slingshot but before I followed through with the trade I
wanted to repost the notice that I sent out last month. I'd rather have a
cash deal since I would just have to turn around and sell the Mustang.
Several others are interested but have to sell their airplanes first. So if
there is anyone else interested please contact me ASAP!
REPRINT OF EARLIER POST:
Due to the lack of success in my finding permanent hangerage I am reluctantly
considering putting my beloved Slingshot up for sale.I have had little time
to fly it this past year and if I have to trailer it each time, I know I'll
fly it even less.
She is 2 years old and is in like new condition.Beautiful craftsmanship
(builder has built 4 other airplanes and is a perfectionist), Cub yellow
Aero-Thane paint job with black trim and upholstery, 220 hrs, fresh annual,
very lightweight at 403 lbs. (over 110 lbs. lighter than the other 2 local
Slingshots and the factory model), fantastic performance and handling, 35 mph
stall, 90 mph cruise, 1500 fpm climb, N-numbered and registered experimental,
approved for aerobatics and it does them nicely, engine is 582 w/ Warpdrive
3-blade tapered prop w/ stainless steel edges, new upgraded hydraulic heel
brakes with parking brake and double puck brake cylinders make it stop fast,
new Matco wheels w/ large 6x8 tundra tires for rough field use, new heavy
duty full swivel tailwheel, new 4-point harness, new ELT, Delcom radio, basic
instruments.
This airplane was flown to the Kolb Factory fly-in and the factory personnel
were very impressed with the quality of construction and it's light weight.
=A0It equaled the performance of the 912 powered demonstrator. Just ask Norm
or Travis.They'd like to get rid of their demonstrator and build one like
mine. Over $23,000 spent in just material costs, not including labor.Best
offer over $18,000 takes it.Located at Cartersville, GA airport.I know
I'll regret selling her but she's just not getting much use.
Please respond off list.
Jon Berndsen
Atlanta, GA
770 754-9845 home
404 303-7272 office
berndsenco(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GDLedbette(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Staying warm |
I also located a source for the tape on the internet at:
www.db-secure.com/zz230/21/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2531
It comes in 15 yard rolls for widths 1 1/2, 2, 3, & 4 inches.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firefly 00-2-00018, both canopies, big wheels and brakes, Ivo 2 blade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
I dont know if anyone cares but here is an article in our local paper,
Columbus Ledger-Enquirer, Columbus, Georgia. "Albany" (Georgia, I presume)
"Britt Knight just wanted to soar with the eagles. But his maiden flight in
his ultralight aircraft ended in a tangle of 7,500 volt power lines and left
25 businesses without power. About 30 seconds after he took off Wednesday in
the $10,000 powered parachute he gave himself for Christmas, a gust of wind
blew Knight into the lines, igniting his chute and leaving him dangling 20
feet in the air. Knight, 25, said he had planned to take lessons, but didnt
want to wait. "It basically takes some practice, but I've never been one to
go by the rules," he said. " I wonder how he survived to be 25 years old.
This guy must have a death wish. Thought you all would enjoy this. How
lucky he is to be alive. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
> Computer crashed , lost your E-mail addresses please send me
yours address. I have photos of my skis, will send them to you. I had few
guys ask me for photos I had your names and add. but there lost them.
Scott Trask
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Sounds like a Darwin Award candidate to me. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 4:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: stupidity
>
> I dont know if anyone cares but here is an article in our local paper,
> Columbus Ledger-Enquirer, Columbus, Georgia. "Albany" (Georgia, I
presume)
> "Britt Knight just wanted to soar with the eagles. But his maiden flight
in
> his ultralight aircraft ended in a tangle of 7,500 volt power lines and
left
> 25 businesses without power. About 30 seconds after he took off Wednesday
in
> the $10,000 powered parachute he gave himself for Christmas, a gust of
wind
> blew Knight into the lines, igniting his chute and leaving him dangling 20
> feet in the air. Knight, 25, said he had planned to take lessons, but
didnt
> want to wait. "It basically takes some practice, but I've never been one
to
> go by the rules," he said. " I wonder how he survived to be 25 years
old.
> This guy must have a death wish. Thought you all would enjoy this. How
> lucky he is to be alive. Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Congratulations--Honorable Mention for the Darwin Awards. There have been
a few pilots who have taught themselves to fly but the reason there are
fewer accidents today is due to the extensive training. The number of
trained pilots and registered ultralights is up--check out the EAA website
to see the numbers.
I picked up a book at OshKosh--Stick and Rudder by Wolfgang Langewiesche.
It was written in 1944 and is really written for ultralights and light
planes. Great explanations and the reader is asked to go out and try the
manuvers --the book helps to expalin flight, controls and airplane
functions from a pilots perspective--I recommend it.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 6:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: stupidity
I dont know if anyone cares but here is an article in our local paper,
Columbus Ledger-Enquirer, Columbus, Georgia. "Albany" (Georgia, I presume)
"Britt Knight just wanted to soar with the eagles. But his maiden flight
in
his ultralight aircraft ended in a tangle of 7,500 volt power lines and
left
25 businesses without power. About 30 seconds after he took off Wednesday
in
the $10,000 powered parachute he gave himself for Christmas, a gust of wind
blew Knight into the lines, igniting his chute and leaving him dangling 20
feet in the air. Knight, 25, said he had planned to take lessons, but
didnt
want to wait. "It basically takes some practice, but I've never been one
to
go by the rules," he said. " I wonder how he survived to be 25 years old.
This guy must have a death wish. Thought you all would enjoy this. How
lucky he is to be alive. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Excellent book, good advice.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>I picked up a book at OshKosh--Stick and Rudder by Wolfgang Langewiesche.
> It was written in 1944 and is really written for ultralights and light
>planes. Great explanations and the reader is asked to go out and try the
>manuvers --the book helps to explain flight, controls and airplane
>functions from a pilots perspective--I recommend it.
>
>Dale Seitzer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
My address is dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com
Please send your photo's of your ski's.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott and Pam Trask [mailto:PTrask(at)diisd.org]
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List:
> Computer crashed , lost your E-mail addresses please send me
yours address. I have photos of my skis, will send them to you. I had few
guys ask me for photos I had your names and add. but there lost them.
Scott Trask
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
"Britt Knight just wanted to soar with the eagles. But his maiden flight in
his ultralight aircraft ended in a tangle of 7,500 volt power lines and left
25 businesses without power. About 30 seconds after he took off Wednesday
in
the $10,000 powered parachute he gave himself for Christmas, a gust of wind
blew Knight into the lines, igniting his chute and leaving him dangling 20
feet in the air. Knight, 25, said he had planned to take lessons, but didnt
want to wait.
Ted
How about the Aussie that used his Paraglider to drop in on the Queen last
Thursday. Saw it on the TV this morning wit him being folled by a Helio.
For more info try
http://www.police.uk/
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Scotch #845 Tape Gap Seal |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
The following procedure was provided to me by Ron Carroll. With his
permission I am sharing it with the list and archives. Thank you Ron!
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
Using 3M/Scotch #845.
I bought a roll of 3" & a roll of 1.5" tape for he job.
First I measured the open spaces between the hinges on the trailing edge
of the wing and the horizontal stab. Next I measured off those readings
(less about an inch so that the gap seals will be about 1/2" short on
each end) onto a table, starting with 0 (zero) on the left. Out to the
right I placed
the shortest measurement, then continued out to the next longer until I
had
all of the measurements marked. Now, draw perpendicular lines 3/4" apart
at each of these measured lines using a taught line to be sure they are
straight. At each measurement point I used a 5" length of 2" wide
masking
tape to make my marks on for better visibility.
Next, using a short piece of the tape to hold it down, I laid a piece of
the
3" tape sticky side up, starting a little left of the zero mark and
lined
up with the upper perpendicular line, and extended it to just beyond the
last mark to the right, holding that end down with a short piece of scrap
tape (again, lined up with the top chalk line mark).
Then, being careful, I laid a piece of the 1.5" tape sticky side down
over
the 3" tape, careful to not get air trapped between the tapes. This
second
piece is lined up with the 3/4" line. This will put the 1.5" tape
exactly
in the center of the 3" tape, with 3/4" on each side of the 3" tape's
sticky
side exposed.
Now for the part that took a helper: Carefully pick up the 3" tape, cut
to
the desired length, and with the two sticky edges exposed, wrap it
lengthwise around a piece of 1" dowel cut to 1" shorter than the longest
opening. Holding it carefully, you walk to the wing, push the dowel &
tape
up into the open gap. The dowel will go nearly half way into the
opening.
Carefully start to press the edges of the 3" tape onto the wing & control
surface and then remove the dowel. Be sure the tape is pressed down
fully
so that none of the exposed sticky part is open to the atmosphere where
dust
could make it look dirty. The dowel makes a nice rounded slack area for
the
necessary flex.
Make all of the pieces that the dowel will fit, then cut off the dowel to
the next shorter size & start again. It really doesn't take as long to
actually do it as it took me to write this explanation (which I hope you
can
understand). This gap seal will last forever and look outstanding. It
is
clear and will look almost like nothing is there. You might screw up
some
tape getting used to doing it, but it will be worth it. You will have
plenty of tape left over for any repairs/replacement in the future.
If you get bubbles between the tapes you can put a small pinhole through
it and rub the bubble flat with your thumbnail.
If this is hard to understand (I'm no tech writer), just ask, ok?
Good luck, and have FUN,
Ron & Jan Carroll
EAA Chapter 292
Independence, OR
_____!_____
------( / )------
" "
E-mail: ron.carroll(at)att.net
Home: 1-503-838-1195
Fax: 1-503-838-4755
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
I'm embarrassed to admit I don't have the web-site address for The New
Kolb, and I need some pieces. Can anyone help ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilliJill(at)aol.com |
Biglar
http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Here we go again, Long Winded Lar in action. Since I plan on fully
enclosing Vamoose' cockpit, I've been giving quite a bit of thought to
refueling the beast. I have the 16 ?? gal. tank supplied as an optional
extra when I bought my kit, and the gas filler neck screws into a flange
welded onto the tank. Gas cap twist locks onto that. I'm not real
crazy about having that open neck inside my plane with me, so decided to
build an exterior filler. Kris Henkel's Tornado comes with a really
nice, light, inexpensive, remote filler cap, so I bought one - for about
$20.00. Cheap at twice the price. Then had to figure how to hook
everything up. When lining things up, and planning locations, it's hard
to figure where the flaps, wings, etc. are going to be, when you're just
working with a framework. Came up with a location on the side behind my
left shoulder for the filler cap, so built an aluminum plate to fit
between the frame tubes, for a support. Fabric will go right over it.
Biggest problem turned out to be the easiest to solve. How to adapt the
twist lock arrangement to a filler tube ?? Looked in all the catalogs,
talked to people, even to TNK. No Joy, anywhere. Then, last week,
while helping a friend with his car, looked at the exhaust, and
FLASH..................what about a piece of exhaust pipe ?? Filler cap
has a 1 1/2" neck, so took it, and the screw in tank neck to a local
muffler shop, explained what I wanted to do, and one of the younger guys
said hell yeah, we'll expand a piece of 1 1/2" to fit that neck, weld it
on, and you'll be in business. While they were at it, I had them bend a
separate 45 to help make the turn from the vertical mount filler to the
horizontal tank. Guy made a beautiful job of it, and charged me $20.00.
Couldn't complain about that. Very fair. Then I found that from the
filler neck, to the side of the plane is closer than I'd thought, the 45
was far too big, and the heavy plastic tubing wouldn't make the bend
without kinking. Ace Hardware and Aircraft Supply came to the rescue
with a piece of 1 1/2" chrome tubing for a sink drain. It has a short
90 on the end, so I cut the flange off, cut the long end to length, and
the 90 stub just makes the distance perfectly, with a short piece of the
clear tubing at each end for connectors. Then cut a 1/2" hole just
outside the top connector, and silver soldered in a 1/2" copper 90, with
a 1/2" aluminum stub tube. Did the same at the tank, connected the 2
with 1/2" clear tubing, and gave myself a vent for air to escape while
filling. Still need the small vent I built into the other side, cause
the Tornado filler cap isn't vented. Then painted the metal section
NAPA engine blue. Perty ! ! ! Sounds kind of involved, but it looks
really great, very solid, very simple, very inexpensive, and I'm real
pleased with it. I'll have pics of it all back tomorrow, if anyone
building a full enclosure is interested. Inventor
Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Linkage |
Since I seem to be on a roll again tonight, thought I'd share my
throttle arrangement with you all. This intro gives those who are
uninterested the opportunity to hit delete. Right ?? I moved the
throttle over to the left side of my cockpit early on, and of course, up
at the engine end, there lives a 2.3L Ford Tempo throttle body for the
fuel injection. How to connect the 2 ?? Once again, the friendly
local dune buggy racers, who have semi-adopted this lunatic, came to my
rescue. I'm real interested in a good solid, smooth, throttle, and the
choke cable, Briggs & Stratton type of wire push pulls didn't inspire
any great confidence. I've run a lot of lawn mowers, and fooled with a
lot of those junk cables. The same to a lesser extent with motorcycle
brake and clutch cables. Better, but still no prize. Turns out that
Indio Dune Buggy has gone thru the same thing at a higher level, and
came up with a dandy for their race cars. Those guys are really great !
! ! My shiny new cable is 10' long, cost right at $30.00, and is made
by "Felsted." Part No. is 100-3333-120. There's a 10/32 thread at
each end, each end has a ball joint to give some flexibility, full throw
is 4". Coiled up to a 15" diameter, action is silky smooth and
positive. Each end has a deep groove for a clamp, and Ace A/C supply
came thru with a couple of 5/16" cable clamps, that will hold it to the
mounting brackets. Perfect, and very solid. Just had to do a little
surgery to the bases, to give a spacer at each end. Couldn't find
appropriate hook ups for each end, so made my own, to connect the 10/32
ends to the throttle and to the throttle body. This is the kind of
thing that can drive you nuts, finding something really satisfactory, so
I hope this saves someone else the hassle & hair pulling I went thru.
Pics of that tomorrow, too. I'm also building a bracket to hold a
spring that will hold the throttle to about 3/4 power if the cable
happened to break or a connector fail, or whatever. I'll fine tune that
when it's running, with the prop on. Removed the stock throttle closer
spring. Helpful Lar. Pheee-eeew ! ! !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RWilliJill(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: TNK
>
> Biglar
>
> http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Anyone out there familiar with older Honda 750's ?? Looks like I might
be going to inherit an '82, and would like to find out a little about
them. Just what I need - another project. Please reply off List.
Thanks. Biker Bourne.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | 690L-70 for sale |
Kolbers,
If anyone is thinking about buying a 2SI 690L-70 engine for their
project, I found an unused one for sale in North Carolina. An EAA
chapter had purchased it for a Ragwing project. The chapter disbanded
before they completed it and are parting out the entire aircraft. The
engine is still in the factory box and has had all the factory updates.
They want $3000 for it and I think you might be able to get it for a
little less. It is very tempting and I will hate myself for passing
this up. :-(
I would buy it, but my partner in my Mark-3 is still a little shy
about anything but a Rotax. :-(
Drop me a line if you would like the phone number and additional info on
the engine. :-(
Denny
rowedl(at)alltel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Sorry to do this, guys, but I had so many responses on my 750 question,
I can't reply to each individually. Thanks everybody, I appreciate it.
Do you know of any web-sites I can access ?? Thanks agoin.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Swaging cable ends |
John H mentioned a little while back that you should let the tail end of
a swaged cable protrude slightly from the secound swage as to avoid
causing a shearing force on the main length of the cable. Is this
somthing the FAA examiner will demand at the inspection? I checked my
rudder cables and sure enough, I hid the cable ends inside the swage.
If these must be corrected, any advice on cutting the swages off without
damaging the cable would be appreciated. I figure I'll try cutting most
of the way through the soft swages with a moto tool, than file and pick
at the rest. I would hate to have to replace the entire cable if I
don't have to.
Help!
Denny ( determined to pass my airworthiness inspection the first time)
Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rollout picture |
Greetings Kolb fans,
Kip Laurie out of Atlanta sent me some pictures of his FireStar. Kip has 41
hours on it and didn't cover the cage, he wanted the open-air feeling of an
UltraStar. He also trimmed the windshield down to complete the effect.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie2.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie1.jpg
Enjoy,
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Swaging cable ends |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Denny, I have my swaged cables cut so the ends are just inside the
sleeves on my elevator cable. I've had the cables out for inspection
about 4 times in 14 years and see no problems. I've even reverse twisted
them to look for internal fraying and used a magnifying glass. The FAA
inspectors may require you to re-swage them but don't know for sure. The
reason I made them this way in the first place was because I was told to
do it that way by builder whom I respected. If the end of the cable is
even with the end of the sleeve, I see no problem, but if the end is
crimped under the sleeve it will cause it to wear into the other side of
the looped cable. If you have made them like I did, then wait until the
inspector tells you to redo it, otherwise you won't have a problem. If on
the other hand, the cable is under the crimp, then definitely make new
ones.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 14 years old on 12-20-00
writes:
>
> John H mentioned a little while back that you should let the tail
> end of
> a swaged cable protrude slightly from the secound swage as to avoid
> causing a shearing force on the main length of the cable. Is this
> somthing the FAA examiner will demand at the inspection? I checked
> my
> rudder cables and sure enough, I hid the cable ends inside the
> swage.
> If these must be corrected, any advice on cutting the swages off
> without
> damaging the cable would be appreciated. I figure I'll try cutting
> most
> of the way through the soft swages with a moto tool, than file and
> pick
> at the rest. I would hate to have to replace the entire cable if I
> don't have to.
> Help!
> Denny ( determined to pass my airworthiness inspection the first
> time)
> Rowe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireStar pictures |
Greetings Kolb fans,
Kip Laurie out of Atlanta sent me some pictures of his FireStar.Kip has=2041
hours on it and didn't cover the cage, he wanted the open-air feeling of an
UltraStar. He also trimmed the windshield down to complete the effect.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie2.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie1.jpg
Enjoy,
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com> |
Does any one have Kathy Meads email address or phone number? She was the lady selling
some Kolb parts a while back. I bought a pair of skies from her any never
got them and I can't seam to find her address?
Glen
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
It is Kenmead(at)aol.com
Jim
MK III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 9:04 PM
>
> Does any one have Kathy Meads email address or phone number?
She was the lady selling some Kolb parts a while back. I bought a pair of
skies from her any never got them and I can't seam to find her
address?
>
> Glen
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Swaging cable ends |
There is a much easier way. Get yourself a good cold chisel, not the kind
for using on wood, but one for cutting through bolts or sheet metal.
Sharpen it good. Get a good heavy hunk of metal for a backing plate. I use
an old sheet metal dolly, but an old anvil, ax head or sledge hammer head
would also be ideal. Get a helper to lay the cable/swedge assembly on the
backing metal so that the line down the middle of the swedge is facing up.
You don't have to have a helper, but it is easier if you do. The cables
will be laying side by side as they come out of the swedge. Place the
chisel on the line of the swedge so that it is exactly between the two
cables. Smack it a good lick with a hammer. You want to cut it so that the
chisel goes just through the first side of the swedge and then quits. That
way you don't nick the cables. You should have one cable on one side of the
cut, and the other cable on the other. Now take two pair of dikes or side
cutters and bend the swedge open, exposing the cables. Keep bending it
around inside out, and the cables will pop out.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
any advice on cutting the swages off without
>damaging the cable would be appreciated. I figure I'll try cutting most
>of the way through the soft swages with a moto tool, than file and pick
>at the rest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Swaging cable ends |
I have undone a few swages and they never come apart so easily. If the
things are really crimped the soft copper swages seem to wrap around
each strand. Be careful or they kink. Give it a try and if it doesn't
work to your satisfaction redo the whole thing. Not worth it if all
lets go in the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil leiter <ggleiter(at)minn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Swaging cable ends |
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
>
> John H mentioned a little while back that you should let the tail end of
> a swaged cable protrude slightly from the secound swage as to avoid
> causing a shearing force on the main length of the cable. Is this
> somthing the FAA examiner will demand at the inspection? I checked my
> rudder cables and sure enough, I hid the cable ends inside the swage.
> If these must be corrected, any advice on cutting the swages off without
> damaging the cable would be appreciated. I figure I'll try cutting most
> of the way through the soft swages with a moto tool, than file and pick
> at the rest. I would hate to have to replace the entire cable if I
> don't have to.
> Help!
> Denny ( determined to pass my airworthiness inspection the first time)
> Rowe
There would have to be some really monsterous problem with complete
replacement of the cable before I would even consider trying to cut away
a swage without some damage to the cable. Think I would do some study
as to whether you do have a problem with the current status, and how
serious it really is. Try and talk to an A&P if you can find one that
works on old airplanes.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Swaging cable ends |
Try the cold chisel method I described.
You would be surprised how well it works.
Best of all, you can always make up a few practice swedges with some old
cable and do a few for practice for less than a dollar. And if you decide
it doesn't work for you, you are still out less than a buck and less than
an hour.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>There would have to be some really monsterous problem with complete
>replacement of the cable before I would even consider trying to cut away
>a swage without some damage to the cable.
>
>gil leiter
>MAPLEWOOD, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
will
extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
may not hold the full strength of the cable.
(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
it)---elsewhere
it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
4.2 for a period of three minutes."
---it's your call.......BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill & Anna Vincent <vincentab(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | PICTURES Kolb Fun Flying |
This is our first attempt at creating a Web site and Web pages ( could
not figure out how to make "thumbnail" pictures ).
If you would like to see a particular picture enlarged, ... RIGHT click
onto that picture, a menu should show up and choose ...
"VIEW IMAGE" ... and it will become enlarged.
You may recognize one of the guys in the pictures.
Happy New Year !!!
Bill and Anna Vincent
Firestar II
Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying1.html
http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying2.html
http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying3.html
http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying4.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PICTURES Kolb Fun Flying |
Looks like a lot of fun, Bill, but awful cold. Brrrr ! ! ! Years ago,
I had a good friend in L.A. named Bob Vincent. We taught SCUBA diving
together in '69. It's a long reach, but..................???
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill & Anna Vincent" <vincentab(at)chartermi.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 8:01 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: PICTURES Kolb Fun Flying
>
> This is our first attempt at creating a Web site and Web pages ( could
> not figure out how to make "thumbnail" pictures ).
>
> If you would like to see a particular picture enlarged, ... RIGHT click
> onto that picture, a menu should show up and choose ...
> "VIEW IMAGE" ... and it will become enlarged.
>
> You may recognize one of the guys in the pictures.
>
> Happy New Year !!!
>
> Bill and Anna Vincent
> Firestar II
> Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
>
>
> http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying1.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying2.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying3.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/billvincent49876/Kolbflying4.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Cable swaging |
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Miller
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Cable swaging
Denny, Look up the FAA definition including pictures in AC 43.13-1B
(Acceptable methods, techniques, and practices) starting on page 7-32,
this defines the proper method of swaging and inspecting cables.
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Cable swaging |
From: Jim Miller
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Cable swaging
Denny, Look up the FAA definition including pictures in AC 43.13-1B
(Acceptable methods, techniques, and practices) starting on page 7-32,
this defines the proper method of swaging and inspecting cables.
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PICTURES Kolb Fun Flying |
Kip Laurie out of Atlanta sent me some pictures of his FireStar.Kip has=2041
hours on it and didn't cover the cage, he wanted the open-air feeling of an
UltraStar. He also trimmed the windshield down to complete the effect.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie2.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Laurie1.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
I had a garage door installed recently and I was watching the installation
process. When it came to doing the cables I was watching to see how they
would crimp the ends. I did not see the proper nicopress tool anywhere in
their tool bag. I was ready to offer my nico tool(the large bolt cutter
style) to do the ends. The installer threaded the end through the nicopress
sleeve and before I could say "don't", he had already grabbed his hammer and
was beating the nicosleeve using the concrete floor for his anvil. He was
done by the time I finished saying "don't". Evidently they do this all the
time (its a large company and they do lots of doors) - but it still bugs me
having such a flat misshapen nico sleeve ... even if it is only on a garage
door.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of slyck
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: swaging
ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
will
extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
may not hold the full strength of the cable.
(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
it)---elsewhere
it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
4.2 for a period of three minutes."
---it's your call.......BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
This has been done before, but on all of my cables I added a piece if clear
heat shrink and after the cables were finished, I shrunk the heatshrink.
Makes a real nice finished look. I used clear to view the swedge, always to
check for slipping.
I always look as part of the preflight, some people use a small stripe of
paint to check for slippage. Might sound like a bit much, but a friend of
mine had the elevator cable on his factory built Hawk slip, he was flying and
slowly lost up control on a flight until he has to go down in a field. He
said it was an erie feeling as the stick came all the was back slowly during
flight. This was a factory swedged cable, makes one think, or at least, makes
me check mine as a preflight even thought I used one of the high dollar bolt
cutter type swedgers.
Just FYI.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilton101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PICTURES Kolb Fun Flying |
Great pics....Reminds me how much I miss the "Fun" of flight!..and flying
friends!
Richard in MN...(Still looking for a 2 place:)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable swedgin!! |
Hmmmmm................and there are people on the List who don't understand
why I wanted a back-up elevator cable on Vamoose. Your little incident
could've been a lot worse. Thanks Tim. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 12:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cable swedgin!!
>
> This has been done before, but on all of my cables I added a piece if
clear
> heat shrink and after the cables were finished, I shrunk the heatshrink.
> Makes a real nice finished look. I used clear to view the swedge, always
to
> check for slipping.
> I always look as part of the preflight, some people use a small stripe of
> paint to check for slippage. Might sound like a bit much, but a friend of
> mine had the elevator cable on his factory built Hawk slip, he was flying
and
> slowly lost up control on a flight until he has to go down in a field. He
> said it was an erie feeling as the stick came all the was back slowly
during
> flight. This was a factory swedged cable, makes one think, or at least,
makes
> me check mine as a preflight even thought I used one of the high dollar
bolt
> cutter type swedgers.
>
> Just FYI.
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hawk36(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Mark III Repairs |
Howdy Gang:
Happy New Year!!!
I am in Woodville, Florida. Been down here since last Thursday. The last three
days have been spent rebuilding seats and landing gear. Took two days to lower
seat bottom, bring seat back up to a straighter position, and build much stronger
seat back frames. Am looking forward to trying them out. Will give me
more head room and better seat position. Make those long days a lot shorter.
Brother Jim got the left landing gear mount finished up today. Tomorrow we will
weld axle sockets to the 1 1/8 X .120 gear legs, rather than use axle/gear leg
sockets. Should prove to be much stronger than the last system we experimented
with. This time around, the gear leg with its welded on axle socket, will
get heated treated. Should work better and be stronger. My new wheels use
tapered bearings on a 3/4 inch axle. Everything is going to be beefier. We are
going to start with 4 deg of positive camber. Hopefully, after the main gear
settles in, we will have a little positive camber left. I like the way that
set up looks, rather than vertical or in a lot of cases negative camber.
Since I am not at home on my computer, I am using the internet mail system which
is slow to move around with. I have been reading all the comments reference
cable swaging. The only reason I mentioned the correct way to perform the operation
was because that is the correct way to do it, not just because that is
the way the reg reads. I think I got my info from Tony Bingaless' book. He
referenced the AC and I also looked at the reg. If the swage is done correctly,
there is no need to be concerned about whether it will do the job or whether
the inspector will pass them or not. There is no need to run redundant elevator
cables. I decided to go from 3/32 to 1/8 cable for my up elevator, primarily
because my MK III is very heavy and the type flying it is subjected to.
I do not worry about my cable connections on the up elvator cable. I went ahead
and doubled up on each connection even though it was 1/8" cable.
Whether one's cables have performed flawlessly or not for many years, if they are
not done correctly, in my book, they are not correct. Because they may be
done at a factory does not make them correct either. Eipper has tucked the trailing
end of the cable inside the sleeve for many years.
If you fly an ultralight, you may use the large hammer and concrete floor method
of compressing the sleeves. If you fly an experimental you can do it any way
you want to as long as your inspector passes it. But somehow, I feel better
by doing it the correct way, especially something as critical as an elevator
cable.
It feels good to be on the road to making repairs and flying again in the future.
With less than 6 months before time to head off to Barrow, Alaska, I have
a lot to do to get ready. This year I hope to get a lot more flight time before
I depart on the "big" one.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable swedgin!! |
>
>Hmmmmm................and there are people on the List who don't understand
>why I wanted a back-up elevator cable on Vamoose. Your little incident
>could've been a lot worse. Thanks Tim. Lar.
I used "FORK END" cable swedges on all my cables. You have to have them
swedged on with a special tool, but they are adjustable (half turnbuckle
type) in case the cable stretches a little over the years and don't cost
all that much to have done.
see at <http://www.wicksaircraft.com/showPage.phtml?pagenum=153> (near
bottom of page).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mark III For Sale???? |
Hi Kobers,
You have probably read some of my emails about my new (used) Mark III.
Well I may have it for sale, and I haven't even flown it in my own state.
I have it sitting in my barn, just as I received it November 18, 2000.
This bird was bought as quick build kit in 1993. The original
owner/builder did not get it fully assembled with engine until 1996. It
has 89 total hours on the whole bird, including the engine. I bought it
this last July 29th in North Carolina, put it into a rental truck, took it
home (near Rockford, IL), did not take it out of the truck!! Drove it up
to the EAA and the Kolb exhibit in hopes of catching "The Hawk" so he would
test fly it and give me a few pointers. When I opened the truck, the Kolb
people were all over my plane like bees on honey. They pointed out several
"short comings", one of which was a broken tail wheel assembly. Needless
to say the bird never made it out of the truck. As this was the last day
of Oshkosh and it was about to rain, Kolb & Company folded up their tents
and we became a caravan of trucks heading south to Rockford, IL. They
dropped me off and my rental truck and plane went to Kentucky for a nose to
tail, top to bottom inspection/repair.
The builder of Kolb's "quick build" is a company call Lite Speed Aviation,
about a 45 minute drive from the Kolb plant. My plane was taken to Lite
Speed Aviation for a "complete check up and fix". If you have your
November issue of UltraLight Flying magazine, look at the Kolb article and
see all the planes that Lite Speed has built for Kolb.
My plane was repair and "brought up to specification" by the experts and
certified mechanics at Lite Speed, and I had added a "Soft Pac BRS". I
hitched a ride to Lite Speed, with some friends on their way to Florida,
and I test flew the plane with Brian, the head airplane mechanic & owner of
Lite Speed. He said the plane it perfect and handles beautifully.
Here are the specs: Mark III, 582 Liquid cooled w/ electric start, full
instruments (almost everyone you can think of except artificial horizon),
instrumentation panel was built forward so you do not have to undo your 4
point harness to reach it, 2-5 gallon gas tanks, electric fuel pump, quad 4
in 1 EGT & CHT (One for each cylinder), electric water pressure gage, full
enclosure, throttle control on both sides, Matco hydraulic heel brakes,
Stits fabric, strobes, IVOProp (3 blade).
With the exception of some "hanger rash" and a tight choke, this bird is
perfect.
The reason I MAY SELL, is that I may be moving to Florida soon, and I do
not have a place for it, let alone my own airstrip, as I do at my home now.
I negotiated with the original seller, he wanted $18,500.00, and I bought
it for $15,500.00, plus I have spent an additional $5,380.00 in repairs,
which includes a BRS.
Anyone interested????
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
When I was in construction, we used to make eyes in the ends of our
cable slings with a system called a "Molly Hogan". We would separate
the ends of the cable into two tails, then reverse the ends and re-lay
them in the opposite direction. When the loop was made the remaining
tails were twisted back together. One cable clamp was then installed.
This clamp only stopped the loop from unwinding. It did not give any
strength to the loop. Making a normal loop by just bending the cable
back, five cable clamps were required to equal the strength of the
cable. I have never heard of a Molly Hogan slipping but I have had
loops to slip through the 5 clamp method. Does anyone know if this is
an acceptable method for aircraft?
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
Building FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Mike
I suggest you keep the Mark III and find a place to keep it even if not at
your new home. Mine is at an airport about 30 minutes away. Florida is a
beautiful place to fly an ultralight. Lots of lakes and scenery, year-round
flying . If you are near the coast you cannnot beat flying along the waters
edge.
Jim MK III
Charlotte, NC
(transplant from Clearwater, FL)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 11:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
> Hi Kobers,
>
> You have probably read some of my emails about my new (used) Mark III.
> Well I may have it for sale, and I haven't even flown it in my own state.
> I have it sitting in my barn, just as I received it November 18, 2000.
>
> This bird was bought as quick build kit in 1993. The original
> owner/builder did not get it fully assembled with engine until 1996. It
> has 89 total hours on the whole bird, including the engine. I bought it
> this last July 29th in North Carolina, put it into a rental truck, took it
> home (near Rockford, IL), did not take it out of the truck!! Drove it up
> to the EAA and the Kolb exhibit in hopes of catching "The Hawk" so he
would
> test fly it and give me a few pointers. When I opened the truck, the Kolb
> people were all over my plane like bees on honey. They pointed out
several
> "short comings", one of which was a broken tail wheel assembly. Needless
> to say the bird never made it out of the truck. As this was the last day
> of Oshkosh and it was about to rain, Kolb & Company folded up their tents
> and we became a caravan of trucks heading south to Rockford, IL. They
> dropped me off and my rental truck and plane went to Kentucky for a nose
to
> tail, top to bottom inspection/repair.
>
> The builder of Kolb's "quick build" is a company call Lite Speed Aviation,
> about a 45 minute drive from the Kolb plant. My plane was taken to Lite
> Speed Aviation for a "complete check up and fix". If you have your
> November issue of UltraLight Flying magazine, look at the Kolb article and
> see all the planes that Lite Speed has built for Kolb.
>
> My plane was repair and "brought up to specification" by the experts and
> certified mechanics at Lite Speed, and I had added a "Soft Pac BRS". I
> hitched a ride to Lite Speed, with some friends on their way to Florida,
> and I test flew the plane with Brian, the head airplane mechanic & owner
of
> Lite Speed. He said the plane it perfect and handles beautifully.
>
> Here are the specs: Mark III, 582 Liquid cooled w/ electric start, full
> instruments (almost everyone you can think of except artificial horizon),
> instrumentation panel was built forward so you do not have to undo your 4
> point harness to reach it, 2-5 gallon gas tanks, electric fuel pump, quad
4
> in 1 EGT & CHT (One for each cylinder), electric water pressure gage, full
> enclosure, throttle control on both sides, Matco hydraulic heel brakes,
> Stits fabric, strobes, IVOProp (3 blade).
>
> With the exception of some "hanger rash" and a tight choke, this bird is
> perfect.
>
> The reason I MAY SELL, is that I may be moving to Florida soon, and I do
> not have a place for it, let alone my own airstrip, as I do at my home
now.
>
> I negotiated with the original seller, he wanted $18,500.00, and I bought
> it for $15,500.00, plus I have spent an additional $5,380.00 in repairs,
> which includes a BRS.
>
> Anyone interested????
>
>
> --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Jim @ Charlotte, NC
Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18 years.
Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of the
EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast of
Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full and a
3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
Thank you,
Mike H.
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hawk36(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging |
Making a normal loop by just bending the cable
back, five cable clamps were required to equal the strength of the
cable. I have never heard of a Molly Hogan slipping but I have had
loops to slip through the 5 clamp method. Does anyone know if this is
an acceptable method for aircraft?
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
Building FireStar II
Morning Gang:
Cable swaging as outlined in the AC won't slip, is simple to do. I don't think
there is any need to reinvent the system on this one. One thing I did forget
in my comment reference cable swaging was, "get a GO/NO GO Gauge to check all
your nicropress sleeves after they are compressed. It is the only way to insure
you have compressed correctly.
Got to get out in the shop and help big brother with my gear legs and axle sockets
or I will get fired.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Maybe an enclosed trailer would be the ticket here, but as someone else
said, there are so many airports in FLA. Get out and buy a local Sectional
and beat the bushes some. You probably will find several to choose from.
Buy any chance, was your Mk-3 the one folded in Kolbs main building at the
Fly-IN? If so, several of us enjoyed looking it over, Looked like a very
nice bird to me. I took several detail photos to help in the finishing of
my Mk-3. Thanks to everyone who made the effort to get their birds to the
fly-in.
Denny Rowe,
Freezing building Mk-3 in western PA.
----- Original Message -----
From: MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
> Jim @ Charlotte, NC
>
> Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
> dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18 years.
> Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
>
> I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
> family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of the
> EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
>
> Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast of
> Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full and
a
> 3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mike H.
>
>
> --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging |
Stick with swaging, like John says, as long as they are compressed
correctly, they will not slip.
Don't let the long string on this subject scare anyone. It is really not to
hard to do it right. I bought my bird half built and the previous owner had
left long tails sticking out of the second swage that I thought would snag
and poke at me constantly.. On top of this, the rudder cables were damaged
during transport to my house so when I replaced them, I consealed the cable
ends with the second swage. This swage really is only for cosmetics, and
redundancy.
But I did not consider the possibility of the cable end causing a shearing
action when crushed against the main load bearing run.
This bird is my third project, and I am still learning.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron or Mary Payne <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cable Swaging
>
> When I was in construction, we used to make eyes in the ends of our
> cable slings with a system called a "Molly Hogan". We would separate
> the ends of the cable into two tails, then reverse the ends and re-lay
> them in the opposite direction. When the loop was made the remaining
> tails were twisted back together. One cable clamp was then installed.
> This clamp only stopped the loop from unwinding. It did not give any
> strength to the loop. Making a normal loop by just bending the cable
> back, five cable clamps were required to equal the strength of the
> cable. I have never heard of a Molly Hogan slipping but I have had
> loops to slip through the 5 clamp method. Does anyone know if this is
> an acceptable method for aircraft?
>
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky
> Building FireStar II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Denny Rowe,
Yes my Mark III was at Kolb during the fly in as they had not transported
it to Lite Speed Aviation. However, I do not know if it was the one you
saw or not. My bird is white with some blue and red on the tail, and a
blue and red stripping along the leading edge of the wings.
Thanks for the complement.
Mike H.
> [Original Message]
> From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
> To:
> Date: 1/1/01 10:32:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
>
> Maybe an enclosed trailer would be the ticket here, but as someone else
> said, there are so many airports in FLA. Get out and buy a local
Sectional
> and beat the bushes some. You probably will find several to choose from.
> Buy any chance, was your Mk-3 the one folded in Kolbs main building at the
> Fly-IN? If so, several of us enjoyed looking it over, Looked like a very
> nice bird to me. I took several detail photos to help in the finishing of
> my Mk-3. Thanks to everyone who made the effort to get their birds to the
> fly-in.
> Denny Rowe,
> Freezing building Mk-3 in western PA.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
>
>
> >
> > Jim @ Charlotte, NC
> >
> > Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
> > dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18
years.
> > Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
> >
> > I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
> > family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of
the
> > EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
> >
> > Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast
of
> > Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full
and
> a
> > 3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Mike H.
> >
> >
> > --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> > --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> > --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
After you get in the area you will probably learn about little grass strips
that are not on the sectionals. There are twice as many airstrips around
here in E. Tenn. as are on the map, and that is probably typical.
Once you find a friendly grass strip, you can build a satisfactory hangar
for what a couple years rent in a regular hangar will cost.
My wife and I honeymooned on Marco Island back in the 60's, nice place.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Jim @ Charlotte, NC
>
>Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
>dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18 years.
>Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
>
>I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
>family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of the
>EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
>
>Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast of
>Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full and a
>3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Mike H.
>
>
>--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
>--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
>--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Mike if all else fails , FLOATS!. don't give up the bird you have waited
long enough and " this isn't a rehersal"chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
> Jim @ Charlotte, NC
>
> Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
> dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18 years.
> Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
>
> I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
> family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of the
> EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
>
> Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast of
> Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full and
a
> 3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mike H.
>
>
> --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net> |
Richard, I have been having handling problems with my Mark-3, so I wrote
John Hauck for an opinion. Part of his reply mentioned that you had
modified your aileron controls a bit (see his message below).
I wonder if you could tell me why you made the modification, and if the mod
improved handling.
The reason I ask is be cause this is my second Kolb, the first was an
Original Firestar-377, and now the Mark-3. Both of these planes have what I
call VERY sluggish aileron response. By this I mean that if I want to bank
left I would give it full left aileron/rudder, but it would not get into the
turn for a few seconds. Then, when I want to straighten out I give opposite
aileron/rudder, and agin it seems to take forever to respond.
On the Kolb List I mentioned the slow response of the Firestar, but those
that answered said that their planes handle great, and that I must have had
something wrong with mine. I could never find anything wrong. Now, with
the new one has exactly the same problem.
Either (1) I am too fussy (I'm not), (2) used to flying planes with quicker
controls (I am witrh my Thunder Gull-J), (3) there is something wrong with
both oif my planes (?), it is my imagination. I figured that if you
modified your controls there must have been a reason, or you wouldn't have
done it.
Am I nuts or what? I really like the plane, and would like to have it fly
as others claim that their's fly. I see no reason why it won't. At first
I 'thought' that there was no differential aileron built in, but after
measuring it with a bubble-protractor, I find that the up aileron actually
goes about twice as far up as the down aileron goes down. So much for the
suspected adverse yaw. I'm at wits end. Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
Ron & Jan Carroll
EAA Chapter 292
Independence, OR
_____!_____
------( / )------
" "
E-mail: ron.carroll(at)att.net
Home: 1-503-838-1195
Fax: 1-503-838-4755
>Part of a message I received from John Hauck
>
>Richard Pike moved the holes on the aileron torque tube
>inboard a little to improve the mechanical advantage. That
>will probably help a bunch. However, a lot depends on how
>much up and down aileron travel you have to work with.
>
>If it doesn't feel good, then something is not quite right.
>I flew someone's Firestar KXP or II, and it flew like a
>dog. Nothing like my old original Firestar. Just did not
>handle well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
KOLBERS,
Thanks for the encouraging emails. I will see what happens first, that is,
if I get a job there and if so, then the move. I will look for
"opportunities for my bird" before I sell.
Steve Weaver - I will keep your name on file if I decide to sell. If I do,
I will ask what I have in it, and the $ amount I stated was actually under
what I have in it as I forgot a few items. Thank you for your interest.
Mike H.
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Chritsmas Present ! |
Dear Kolb Gang -
I'm happy to share some exciting news with you all - the engine for my
Mark-III arrived this week!
You've probably seen previous posts from me mentioning this engine:
It's the Verner SVS-1400, made in the Czech Republic. Four-stroke, 80
hp, 2-cylinder, 1400 cc, air cooled, 160 lbs, cog-belt reduction
(1-to-1.8). Max engine RPM is 5000; 70% cruise RPM is 3500. Burns 2
gph at 3500.
This is a beautiful piece of machinery - looks very much like a BMW
motorcycle engine, with its horizontally-opposed twin cylinders. Comes
with dual CDI ignition, dual spark plugs per cylinder, magnesium alloy
case. Price includes 4 instruments (Dual-CHT, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure,
and Tachometer), oil cooler, electric starter, 70 watt alternator, dual
Bing-64 carbs, and even includes maintenance tools.
Price was bit steep, at $7500. But I knew this two years ago when I
decided that my Kolb would be powered by a four-stroke engine, so I've
been saving my pennies for this engine since then. Even at this price,
it's still only two-thirds the cost of a Rotax-912, but with roughly
half the parts count. I hope it proves to be as reliable as the 912.
It gives me confidence that this engine was designed exclusively for
aircraft use, and is JAR-22 certified (European equivalent to
FAA-certified, and a bit more stringent). This version of the Verner
engine has been in production since 1995, but earlier (lower-hp)
versions have been in development for nearly 15 years. This engine is
sold world wide, with factory-authorized distributors and service
centers in 15 different countries, mostly around Europe, but including
Australia and South America. The US distributor is Steve Flynn, of
Central Florida Flyers. See pictures & details of this engine at:
http://www.centralfloridaflyers.com/
Steve Flynn's demonstrator aircraft for this engine is, in fact, a Kolb
Mark-III. I flew that aircraft earlier this year, and was sufficiently
impressed with the airplane/engine combo that I decided to buy this
engine. I'm told there are 3 Kolbs in the US that are powered by the
Verner engine, and a few in Europe, but they do not subscribe to our
List (that I know of).
I'm still several months away from first flight of my Mark-III. Still
need to paint my airplane, then finish the cockpit details - seats,
upholstery and instrument panel, then reinstall the nosecone, windshield
& doors. You can all count on a full report when my bird finally takes
to the air.
I'll use this opportunity to tell everybody how useful this List has
been to me over the past couple of years building my airplane. Though
I've remained mostly in the lurk mode, I have collected many great tips
and inspiration from all you experienced Kolb builders & flyers,
especially the List "regulars" like Hauck, Pike, Stripling, Shackleford,
Ransom, Jung, Uribe, Boyd, Duane the Plane, Possum, Burlingame,
Swiderski, Bill George, Casey, Topher, (to name only a few) and yes,
even you, Big Lar. I read it all, and store the nuggets. My builder's
log is filled with lots of construction and flying notes that I've
collected from all you guys. Many thanks to all.
Sorry for the long, rambling post. I'm switching to a new e-mail server
in January, so I'm temporarily unsubscribing and will return to lurk
mode. I'll keep up with the List dialogue by reading what gets posted
in the Archive List.
A Happy New Year to all -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, approaching 90% complete, in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Donna Kujanpaa" <cubpilot(at)ncweb.com> |
Kolbers
On a Kolb Mark III with a Rotax 912, should the
vertical fin be offset or centered? It is a quickbuild kit by Lite speed
Aviation and the vertical fin came centered. Anyone have any experience
with this and advice before the test flight?
Thanks
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging |
Maybe I've missed it, but I don't think anyone has mentioned using a
"go/no-go" gauge to check your swages. I've had mine for so long, I don't
remember where I got it. Came with the tool, I guess. Each swage should be
checked.
Happy New Year!!
Bill Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical fin |
> Aviation and the vertical fin came centered. Anyone have any experience
> with this and advice before the test flight?
>
> Thanks
> Jim
Jim and Kolbers:
I did the initial testing of offsetting the vert stab.
Discovered that there was very minimal mechanical advantage
in reducing adverse yaw. Ended up with a large rudder trim
tab and moving vert stab back in the centered position. All
this info is available in the Kolb List Search/Archives.
Lot of discussion on this subject in the past by this List.
John H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | noblelumpkin(at)webtv.net (Ben Ramler) |
Hay all-
My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
here goes:
I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
See you later & Happy New Year,
Ben Ramler
St.Joesph, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-3 ailerons |
I flew my MKIII for over two years with stock ailerons, and they seemed
effective, but very heavy. What I did was to reduce the aileron travel and
improve the leverage. I have some pictures of the mod on my web page at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg7.htm
The idea was that the Kolb has so much aileron travel that it takes a lot
of arm muscle to move the ailerons against the air stream. I was willing to
try experimenting with the possibility that less aileron travel was still
enough. Something that encouraged me was talking to Vince Nicely (Firestar
II) who had become convinced that the aileron tube torqued so much at speed
that you didn't get as much throw as you thought you did anyway. He said
that if you pushed the stick over and held it, and then had a friend come
and try and straighten the ailerons out, the tube would twist and you ended
up with only half as much aileron throw as you would unloaded.
Obviously, the ailerons get heavier at speed, so just because you don't get
full throw at 80 MPH doesn't mean you don't get full throw at 40 MPH.
Anyway, I reduced the amount of aileron throw. For a given amount of stick
movement, you get less aileron movement. This makes the ailerons easier to
manipulate. Because it is easier to work them, I think you end up raising
and lowering the ailerons as much after the mod as you did before, and with
half the effort. This seems to translate into a perceived better aileron
response. I was not able to tell any difference in roll rate from stock and
a lot of muscle, compared to modified and very little muscle, it still
rolls pretty fast either way, but it seems better.
I did notice that aileron response seems better if the ailerons are not
drooped into the air stream, but either in trail or very slightly (VERY
slightly) reflexed.
The MKIII is a very agile airplane, but not a well balanced airplane in
terms of responding to single axis inputs. Mine will not respond well to
aileron without rudder, and will not respond well at all to rudder without
aileron. Both are required, or divergent flight results. Vince Nicely put
in a LOT of dihedral on his Firestar II, and it will respond to either
rudder or aileron w/o the other, but it took a lot of dihedral to do it.
I have limited experience in aerobatic airplanes, and therefore I have
somewhat of a limited experience to compare against, but I think my
ailerons are immediate in response, but not terribly quick in roll. It
seems much better than a Piper or Cessna, but less than a Skybolt. That is
subjective and without timing the roll rate with a stopwatch. I am entirely
satisfied with both the speed of response, and the perceived authority in
roll rate, and plan no further changes. I hope this is of some help to you.
If you decide to modify yours, it won't cost you much, (4 new rod ends, and
two lengths of chromoly) and unless you make a habit of landing in a lot of
stiff crosswinds that use up any and all available aileron throw and leave
you wishing for more, I think you would be pleased. If not, you will still
have the old pushrods, put it back like it was.
Happy New Year
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>Richard, I have been having handling problems with my Mark-3, so I wrote
>John Hauck for an opinion. Part of his reply mentioned that you had
>modified your aileron controls a bit (see his message below).
>
>I wonder if you could tell me why you made the modification, and if the mod
>improved handling.
>
>The reason I ask is be cause this is my second Kolb, the first was an
>Original Firestar-377, and now the Mark-3. Both of these planes have what I
>call VERY sluggish aileron response. By this I mean that if I want to bank
>left I would give it full left aileron/rudder, but it would not get into the
>turn for a few seconds. Then, when I want to straighten out I give opposite
>aileron/rudder, and again it seems to take forever to respond.
>
>On the Kolb List I mentioned the slow response of the Firestar, but those
>that answered said that their planes handle great, and that I must have had
>something wrong with mine. I could never find anything wrong. Now, with
>the new one has exactly the same problem.
>
>Either (1) I am too fussy (I'm not), (2) used to flying planes with quicker
>controls (I am with my Thunder Gull-J), (3) there is something wrong with
>both of my planes (?), it is my imagination. I figured that if you
>modified your controls there must have been a reason, or you wouldn't have
>done it.
>
>Am I nuts or what? I really like the plane, and would like to have it fly
>as others claim that theirs fly. I see no reason why it won't. At first
>I 'thought' that there was no differential aileron built in, but after
>measuring it with a bubble-protractor, I find that the up aileron actually
>goes about twice as far up as the down aileron goes down. So much for the
>suspected adverse yaw. I'm at wits end. Any suggestions would be
>appreciated.
>
>Ron & Jan Carroll
>EAA Chapter 292
>Independence, OR
>_____!_____
> ------( / )------
> " "
>E-mail: ron.carroll(at)att.net
>Home: 1-503-838-1195
>Fax: 1-503-838-4755
>
>
>>Part of a message I received from John Hauck
>>
>>Richard Pike moved the holes on the aileron torque tube
>>inboard a little to improve the mechanical advantage. That
>>will probably help a bunch. However, a lot depends on how
>>much up and down aileron travel you have to work with.
>>
>>If it doesn't feel good, then something is not quite right.
>>I flew someone's Firestar KXP or II, and it flew like a
>>dog. Nothing like my old original Firestar. Just did not
>>handle well.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
That was it, nice bird,keep it if you can.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
> Denny Rowe,
>
> Yes my Mark III was at Kolb during the fly in as they had not transported
> it to Lite Speed Aviation. However, I do not know if it was the one you
> saw or not. My bird is white with some blue and red on the tail, and a
> blue and red stripping along the leading edge of the wings.
>
> Thanks for the complement.
>
> Mike H.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
> > To:
> > Date: 1/1/01 10:32:27 AM
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
> >
> >
> > Maybe an enclosed trailer would be the ticket here, but as someone else
> > said, there are so many airports in FLA. Get out and buy a local
> Sectional
> > and beat the bushes some. You probably will find several to choose
from.
> > Buy any chance, was your Mk-3 the one folded in Kolbs main building at
the
> > Fly-IN? If so, several of us enjoyed looking it over, Looked like a
very
> > nice bird to me. I took several detail photos to help in the finishing
of
> > my Mk-3. Thanks to everyone who made the effort to get their birds to
the
> > fly-in.
> > Denny Rowe,
> > Freezing building Mk-3 in western PA.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Jim @ Charlotte, NC
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have
been
> > > dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18
> years.
> > > Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
> > >
> > > I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
> > > family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of
> the
> > > EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these
years.
> > >
> > > Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast
> of
> > > Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full
> and
> > a
> > > 3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > Mike H.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> > > --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> > > --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging |
My tool also came with the gauge. My dad bought the tool in 1981 at an
electric supply house in Pittsburgh for me to use on my Pterodactyl. Its a
big bolt cutter style unit with the built in cable cutter. Nicest swaging
tool me or my flying buddys ever saw, been used to build several other
aircraft besides my own, and scares me every time I lend it out.
Bragging in PA,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cable Swaging
>
> Maybe I've missed it, but I don't think anyone has mentioned using a
> "go/no-go" gauge to check your swages. I've had mine for so long, I don't
> remember where I got it. Came with the tool, I guess. Each swage should be
> checked.
>
> Happy New Year!!
>
> Bill Griffin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Read everything before starting! Ensure you have a good work area and the
proper tools on hand, and, continue to ask for advise on this list!
Dave Rains
FireStar II
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Ramler <noblelumpkin(at)webtv.net>
Date: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: HI
>
>Hay all-
> My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
>Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
> If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
>here goes:
> I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
>building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
>
>See you later & Happy New Year,
>
>Ben Ramler
>St.Joesph, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Dennis,
I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always bugged
me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to balance
it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
comments?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Souder
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
I had a garage door installed recently and I was watching the installation
process. When it came to doing the cables I was watching to see how they
would crimp the ends. I did not see the proper nicopress tool anywhere in
their tool bag. I was ready to offer my nico tool(the large bolt cutter
style) to do the ends. The installer threaded the end through the nicopress
sleeve and before I could say "don't", he had already grabbed his hammer and
was beating the nicosleeve using the concrete floor for his anvil. He was
done by the time I finished saying "don't". Evidently they do this all the
time (its a large company and they do lots of doors) - but it still bugs me
having such a flat misshapen nico sleeve ... even if it is only on a garage
door.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of slyck
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: swaging
ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
will
extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
may not hold the full strength of the cable.
(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
it)---elsewhere
it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
4.2 for a period of three minutes."
---it's your call.......BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Does anyone out there have a used Ivo prop for sale. I have a Kolb Firestar
with a 377 on it. A two blade 64" or a three blade 58" would work. Let me
know of the list. My address is : dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Kearbey [mailto:kearbey(at)jps.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
Dennis,
I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always bugged
me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to balance
it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
comments?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Souder
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
I had a garage door installed recently and I was watching the installation
process. When it came to doing the cables I was watching to see how they
would crimp the ends. I did not see the proper nicopress tool anywhere in
their tool bag. I was ready to offer my nico tool(the large bolt cutter
style) to do the ends. The installer threaded the end through the nicopress
sleeve and before I could say "don't", he had already grabbed his hammer and
was beating the nicosleeve using the concrete floor for his anvil. He was
done by the time I finished saying "don't". Evidently they do this all the
time (its a large company and they do lots of doors) - but it still bugs me
having such a flat misshapen nico sleeve ... even if it is only on a garage
door.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of slyck
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: swaging
ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
will
extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
may not hold the full strength of the cable.
(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
it)---elsewhere
it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
4.2 for a period of three minutes."
---it's your call.......BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Section Vibrating |
> It has always bugged
> me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly.
> Bob
Morning Bob and Kolbers:
Don't believe an out of balance prop is causing the tail
section to vibrate. Most likely the tail wire bracing is
loose. If the tail wires are loose, the leading edge of the
horizontal stablilizer will vibrate. The looser the wires
the more it vibrates. I discovered this when I was flying
the old factory MK III many years ago at Sun and Fun,
Lakeland, Florida. Because the top of the rear fuselage was
open, I could turn around enough to see the tail section.
Sure enough, the leading edges of the horizontal stabilizer
were moving up and down very rapidly. Tightened the wires
on landing. Test flight confirmed it was loose wires.
Occilation of leading edges of horizontal stab had stopped.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Hi Ben,
I built a Firestar II a couple of years ago and it was a very satisfying
experience. It didn't take much tooling and it wasn't difficult. It did
cost more money than expected and some space is needed. Almost any
motivated person can build a Kolb. The real question is one that only you
can answer: Can you finish a project that takes 400 or more hours? Some
people can't and others find it very challenging. I wish you the best of
luck should you accept the challenge.
John Jung
Ben Ramler wrote:
> snip
> I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
> building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
snip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
Ben,
I, too, am building a Firestar II. It is quite an undertaking. You will be
cutting all the aluminum to length, bending where needed. (the bending is
the hardest, getting the radius and everything right, without having the
tubing kink.) If I were to do it over again and could afford it, I'd look
seriously at the quick build kit they offer. I think the price runs for
having most of the assembly done runs pretty close to $3500, though. There
is quite a bit of satisfaction in doing the construction yourself. This has
been my first shot at anything like this. Study the blueprints and manuals
closely, use #6 sheet metal screws before you do the final riveting on any
piece. It'll be a lot easy to disaasemble it and you'll save on drill bits.
Lord, knows I wish I'd have done that more. You may have to invest in some
tools. (1) I found a band saw with a blade to cut metal gussets
indispensable. (I bought a small drill press, but found I'm using my hand
drill almost entirely.) I've used a miter saw and box for cutting metal to
cut all my tubing lengths from Sears for about $25. Works great, nice clean
cuts. Some c-clamps. Buy about 20 1/8" drill bits of good quality. When
I've had to drill out a rivet for some reason or other, the stainless steel
rivets eat up drill bits like candy. Of course you'll need a good rivet
gun. I bought a hand one and its on its last legs (won't grab the rivet
stem) so I may have to buy another one to finish up. If you can afford it
get a pneumatic riveter.($65-100) There's evenings I've had a pretty sore
hand from riveting. I bought myself an air compressor, could power a
riveter and for spray painting. I didn't opt for the powder coating, not a
big problem with rust or corrosion here in S. Arizona. I did apply
corrosion protection paint myself from Jim & Dondi Miller at Aircraft
Technical Support, Inc. I recieved my kit right around the first of October
2000 I have completed the horizontal stabilizers, elevators, rudder,
vertical stabilizer. These I have covered and the first two coats of
Poly-brush on. I've completed the two wings, one aileron and have one
aileron left to assemble but have not covered them. That will pretty much
complete the first kit. If you have the time, like to tinker and build
things, are handy with tools, have a good work area, build it yourself. I
think I'll feel a tremedous amount of satisafaction when I take to the air
for the first time in my Firestar. I spent most evenings out working on it
and 5-6 hours per day on weekends. I had two or three weeks where I did no
work whatsoever, (illness) but getting back into it again now. I think if
you'll build it completely you'll have a great aircraft and great
performance for a good price, bar none. There's help available all over,
Kolb themselves, the Kolb list server, othe firestar owners in your area, (a
big help) join an ultralight club, you'll find other Kolb owners in your
area. I've had to reorder one root rib for the left wing, and two 6' 3/4"
tubings for the wing tip bows. (tough to bend those without kinking, I
think Kolb should use a thicker walled tube.) Go for it! It's fun watching
it take shape. My wife looked at all the tubing and sheet metal that came
in the first shipment and thought how in blazes will he turn all that into
something that flies! Good luck. Oh by the way, I'm a refuge from the
Minnesota winters. I grew up in a small town in s. Minnesota, called Hanska
about ten miles south of New Ulm. I've been in Tucson now for about eleven
years. Don't miss the snow or cold at all. I love the heat.
Ken (gonna finish that last aileron, tonight)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ramler <noblelumpkin(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: HI
>
> Hay all-
> My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
> Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
> If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
> here goes:
> I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
> building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
>
> See you later & Happy New Year,
>
> Ben Ramler
> St.Joesph, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Dennis,
>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always bugged
>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to balance
>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>comments?
>Bob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Souder
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 11:17 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>I had a garage door installed recently and I was watching the installation
>process. When it came to doing the cables I was watching to see how they
>would crimp the ends. I did not see the proper nicopress tool anywhere in
>their tool bag. I was ready to offer my nico tool(the large bolt cutter
>style) to do the ends. The installer threaded the end through the nicopress
>sleeve and before I could say "don't", he had already grabbed his hammer and
>was beating the nicosleeve using the concrete floor for his anvil. He was
>done by the time I finished saying "don't". Evidently they do this all the
>time (its a large company and they do lots of doors) - but it still bugs me
>having such a flat misshapen nico sleeve ... even if it is only on a garage
>door.
>
>Dennis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of slyck
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:33 AM
>To: kolb
>Subject: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
>(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
>will
>extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
>when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
>
>may not hold the full strength of the cable.
>
>(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
>it)---elsewhere
>it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
>proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
>equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
>4.2 for a period of three minutes."
>
>---it's your call.......BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
There was a good article on nico press fittings and cables in the
November issue of "Ultralight Flying! by Dennis Pagen. No, I don't
work for the magazine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't move
much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle. Calms
down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a prop
problem.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Dennis,
>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
bugged
>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
balance
>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>comments?
>Bob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Souder
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 11:17 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>I had a garage door installed recently and I was watching the installation
>process. When it came to doing the cables I was watching to see how they
>would crimp the ends. I did not see the proper nicopress tool anywhere in
>their tool bag. I was ready to offer my nico tool(the large bolt cutter
>style) to do the ends. The installer threaded the end through the
nicopress
>sleeve and before I could say "don't", he had already grabbed his hammer
and
>was beating the nicosleeve using the concrete floor for his anvil. He was
>done by the time I finished saying "don't". Evidently they do this all the
>time (its a large company and they do lots of doors) - but it still bugs me
>having such a flat misshapen nico sleeve ... even if it is only on a garage
>door.
>
>Dennis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of slyck
>Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:33 AM
>To: kolb
>Subject: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>ac 43.13-1 under "mechanically fabricated cable assemblies"
>(1) thimble-eye splice. Initially position the cable so that the end
>will
>extend slightly beyond the sleeve, as the sleeve will elongate somewhat
>when it is compressed. If the cable end is inside the sleeve, the splice
>
>may not hold the full strength of the cable.
>
>(personally, if it at least ended exactly flush I would pass
>it)---elsewhere
>it also says that " cable terminals and splices should be tested for
>proper strength prior to installation. Gradually apply a test load
>equal to 60 per cent of the cable breaking strengths given in figure
>4.2 for a period of three minutes."
>
>---it's your call.......BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenny Broste [mailto:spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HI
Ben,
I, too, am building a Firestar II. It is quite an undertaking. You will be
cutting all the aluminum to length, bending where needed. (the bending is
the hardest, getting the radius and everything right, without having the
tubing kink.) If I were to do it over again and could afford it, I'd look
seriously at the quick build kit they offer. I think the price runs for
having most of the assembly done runs pretty close to $3500, though. There
is quite a bit of satisfaction in doing the construction yourself. This has
been my first shot at anything like this. Study the blueprints and manuals
closely, use #6 sheet metal screws before you do the final riveting on any
piece. It'll be a lot easy to disaasemble it and you'll save on drill bits.
Lord, knows I wish I'd have done that more. You may have to invest in some
tools. (1) I found a band saw with a blade to cut metal gussets
indispensable. (I bought a small drill press, but found I'm using my hand
drill almost entirely.) I've used a miter saw and box for cutting metal to
cut all my tubing lengths from Sears for about $25. Works great, nice clean
cuts. Some c-clamps. Buy about 20 1/8" drill bits of good quality. When
I've had to drill out a rivet for some reason or other, the stainless steel
rivets eat up drill bits like candy. Of course you'll need a good rivet
gun. I bought a hand one and its on its last legs (won't grab the rivet
stem) so I may have to buy another one to finish up. If you can afford it
get a pneumatic riveter.($65-100) There's evenings I've had a pretty sore
hand from riveting. I bought myself an air compressor, could power a
riveter and for spray painting. I didn't opt for the powder coating, not a
big problem with rust or corrosion here in S. Arizona. I did apply
corrosion protection paint myself from Jim & Dondi Miller at Aircraft
Technical Support, Inc. I recieved my kit right around the first of October
2000 I have completed the horizontal stabilizers, elevators, rudder,
vertical stabilizer. These I have covered and the first two coats of
Poly-brush on. I've completed the two wings, one aileron and have one
aileron left to assemble but have not covered them. That will pretty much
complete the first kit. If you have the time, like to tinker and build
things, are handy with tools, have a good work area, build it yourself. I
think I'll feel a tremedous amount of satisafaction when I take to the air
for the first time in my Firestar. I spent most evenings out working on it
and 5-6 hours per day on weekends. I had two or three weeks where I did no
work whatsoever, (illness) but getting back into it again now. I think if
you'll build it completely you'll have a great aircraft and great
performance for a good price, bar none. There's help available all over,
Kolb themselves, the Kolb list server, othe firestar owners in your area, (a
big help) join an ultralight club, you'll find other Kolb owners in your
area. I've had to reorder one root rib for the left wing, and two 6' 3/4"
tubings for the wing tip bows. (tough to bend those without kinking, I
think Kolb should use a thicker walled tube.) Go for it! It's fun watching
it take shape. My wife looked at all the tubing and sheet metal that came
in the first shipment and thought how in blazes will he turn all that into
something that flies! Good luck. Oh by the way, I'm a refuge from the
Minnesota winters. I grew up in a small town in s. Minnesota, called Hanska
about ten miles south of New Ulm. I've been in Tucson now for about eleven
years. Don't miss the snow or cold at all. I love the heat.
Ken (gonna finish that last aileron, tonight)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ramler <noblelumpkin(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: HI
>
> Hay all-
> My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
> Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
> If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
> here goes:
> I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
> building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
>
> See you later & Happy New Year,
>
> Ben Ramler
> St.Joesph, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Mike,
I have a Firestar II that I keep folded in my garage and trailer to the
airport when I want to fly. A simple tilt trailer can be built for little
money and a few simple jigs make one-man assembly of the Firestar II simple.
You can look for a convenient storage building off-airport.
If you really want to fly and have some patients with mechanical things, the
wing folding feature is nice on the Firestar II. I'll bet it could be made
to work equally well on the Mark III with a little effort.
Vince Nicely
Firestar II (280 hours all from my garage in town)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III For Sale????
>
> Jim @ Charlotte, NC
>
> Thanks for the advise. As you know I put "maybe for sale". I have been
> dreaming, I mean literally dreaming of flying an ultralight for 18 years.
> Now that I have one . . . . and to give it up????
>
> I started taking ultralight flying lessons in 1984 when we starting a
> family and career and could not afford one, but have been a member of the
> EAA and subscriber to UltraLight Flying magazine for all of these years.
>
> Where we will be moving to (if we move) is Marco Island, off the coast of
> Naples. There is an airport within 5 miles, but all hangers are full and
a
> 3 page waiting list. Any suggestions?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mike H.
>
>
> --- MIKE HOUSEWERT
> --- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say you
need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you have
one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't move
>much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle. Calms
>down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a prop
>problem.
>Bob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
>Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
>That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
>and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>>
>>Dennis,
>>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
>bugged
>>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
>>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
>>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
>balance
>>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>>comments?
>>Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | extreme stabilizer movement |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Bob,
I too have experienced the stabilizer moving quite a bit in flight. The
reason for this is like others have stated: loose tailbracing. After 12
years of flying it this way, I decided to make new flying wires that were
tighter. This also meant using a rachet and socket to tighten it because
I could not finger tighten the wing nut. The thimbles will start wearing
underneath the tang and the only way to see this is to lift the thimble
off the tang and inspect it. In extreme cases, it could wear through the
thimble and into cable.
I flew for the first time this year off skis yesterday. You southern
boys (I say this every year) don't know what you are missing.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 14 years old and aging gracefully (so is its pilot)
writes:
> Dennis,
> I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has
> always bugged
> me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
Very slowly and carefully!
----- Original Message -----
From: Kottke, Dwight <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: HI
>
> What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenny Broste [mailto:spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 11:03 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HI
>
>
>
> Ben,
> I, too, am building a Firestar II. It is quite an undertaking. You will
be
> cutting all the aluminum to length, bending where needed. (the bending is
> the hardest, getting the radius and everything right, without having the
> tubing kink.) If I were to do it over again and could afford it, I'd look
> seriously at the quick build kit they offer. I think the price runs for
> having most of the assembly done runs pretty close to $3500, though.
There
> is quite a bit of satisfaction in doing the construction yourself. This
has
> been my first shot at anything like this. Study the blueprints and
manuals
> closely, use #6 sheet metal screws before you do the final riveting on any
> piece. It'll be a lot easy to disaasemble it and you'll save on drill
bits.
> Lord, knows I wish I'd have done that more. You may have to invest in some
> tools. (1) I found a band saw with a blade to cut metal gussets
> indispensable. (I bought a small drill press, but found I'm using my hand
> drill almost entirely.) I've used a miter saw and box for cutting metal
to
> cut all my tubing lengths from Sears for about $25. Works great, nice
clean
> cuts. Some c-clamps. Buy about 20 1/8" drill bits of good quality. When
> I've had to drill out a rivet for some reason or other, the stainless
steel
> rivets eat up drill bits like candy. Of course you'll need a good rivet
> gun. I bought a hand one and its on its last legs (won't grab the rivet
> stem) so I may have to buy another one to finish up. If you can afford
it
> get a pneumatic riveter.($65-100) There's evenings I've had a pretty sore
> hand from riveting. I bought myself an air compressor, could power a
> riveter and for spray painting. I didn't opt for the powder coating, not
a
> big problem with rust or corrosion here in S. Arizona. I did apply
> corrosion protection paint myself from Jim & Dondi Miller at Aircraft
> Technical Support, Inc. I recieved my kit right around the first of
October
> 2000 I have completed the horizontal stabilizers, elevators, rudder,
> vertical stabilizer. These I have covered and the first two coats of
> Poly-brush on. I've completed the two wings, one aileron and have one
> aileron left to assemble but have not covered them. That will pretty much
> complete the first kit. If you have the time, like to tinker and build
> things, are handy with tools, have a good work area, build it yourself. I
> think I'll feel a tremedous amount of satisafaction when I take to the air
> for the first time in my Firestar. I spent most evenings out working on
it
> and 5-6 hours per day on weekends. I had two or three weeks where I did no
> work whatsoever, (illness) but getting back into it again now. I think if
> you'll build it completely you'll have a great aircraft and great
> performance for a good price, bar none. There's help available all over,
> Kolb themselves, the Kolb list server, othe firestar owners in your area,
(a
> big help) join an ultralight club, you'll find other Kolb owners in your
> area. I've had to reorder one root rib for the left wing, and two 6' 3/4"
> tubings for the wing tip bows. (tough to bend those without kinking, I
> think Kolb should use a thicker walled tube.) Go for it! It's fun
watching
> it take shape. My wife looked at all the tubing and sheet metal that came
> in the first shipment and thought how in blazes will he turn all that into
> something that flies! Good luck. Oh by the way, I'm a refuge from the
> Minnesota winters. I grew up in a small town in s. Minnesota, called
Hanska
> about ten miles south of New Ulm. I've been in Tucson now for about
eleven
> years. Don't miss the snow or cold at all. I love the heat.
> Ken (gonna finish that last aileron, tonight)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ben Ramler <noblelumpkin(at)webtv.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 9:27 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: HI
>
>
> >
> > Hay all-
> > My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
> > Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
> > If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
> > here goes:
> > I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
> > building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
> >
> > See you later & Happy New Year,
> >
> > Ben Ramler
> > St.Joesph, MN
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
That's it! If you have only one blade on your prop that would cause
incredible vibrations!
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
> If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say
you
> need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
> would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you
have
> one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
> cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
> PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
> totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
> and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't
move
> >much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle.
Calms
> >down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a
prop
> >problem.
> >Bob
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
> >
> >
> >
> >What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
> >Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
> >That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
> >and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
> >Richard Pike
> >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >>
> >>Dennis,
> >>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
> >bugged
> >>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
> >>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I
am
> >>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I
an
> >>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
> >balance
> >>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas
or
> >>comments?
> >>Bob
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: extreme stabilizer movement |
Ya, we're missing those 40 below wind chills that freeze exposed skin in
less than a minute! You betcha! I miss them like a I miss a case of Hong
Kong flu.
Southern AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: extreme stabilizer movement
>
> Bob,
>
> I too have experienced the stabilizer moving quite a bit in flight. The
> reason for this is like others have stated: loose tailbracing. After 12
> years of flying it this way, I decided to make new flying wires that were
> tighter. This also meant using a rachet and socket to tighten it because
> I could not finger tighten the wing nut. The thimbles will start wearing
> underneath the tang and the only way to see this is to lift the thimble
> off the tang and inspect it. In extreme cases, it could wear through the
> thimble and into cable.
>
> I flew for the first time this year off skis yesterday. You southern
> boys (I say this every year) don't know what you are missing.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar, 14 years old and aging gracefully (so is its pilot)
>
>
> writes:
> > Dennis,
> > I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has
> > always bugged
> > me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
I have a MKIII with a 912 and warp prop and also had problems with a rapid
vibration of the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer. It was something
I could feel in my seat and it would happen at 5000+ rpm's. Throttle back,
it would go away. Mine was a very rapid vibration, how many cycles per
second it don't know, not fast enough to hear, but fast enough that it was
difficult to see. My wire braces were tight to the point of bending the
tangs. I assumed it was some sort of harmonic from the prop wash. I never
saw the horizontal stabilizer vibrate. I though of adding a cable brace to
the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer or adding something the stiffen
the leading edge. I finally decided to add tension to the leading edge by
moving the front attachment of the leading edge to the left. I thought it
might also help the rudder trim. This seems to have all but eliminated the
vibration, but did very little to help the trim. I still have a big trim
tab on my rudder. I don't know if yours it the same. Just an idea for your
consideration.
Terry
MK III 26520 214 hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say you
need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you have
one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't
move
>much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle.
Calms
>down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a
prop
>problem.
>Bob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
>Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
>That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
>and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>>
>>Dennis,
>>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
>bugged
>>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I
am
>>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I
an
>>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
>balance
>>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>>comments?
>>Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?
> Dwight
Dwight and Gang:
I have bent quite a bit of aluminum tubing by crashing, over
the years. :-)
Not much bending required building a Kolb. Bow tips are
bent around a spare tire. Other than that, can not think of
anything being bent according to plans, except aileron,
flap, and tail section ribs, if you choose to use that
method of construction.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Lay" <rv6builder(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | jigs for folding wings |
Hi all,
I am new to the list, lurking for the last several weeks. I am purchasing a
Firestar II that is already built. It is in silver right now, so I have to
do the final paint job. The current owner is having it inspected for its
airworthiness certificate. Then comes my first problem. What is the best way
to get this airplane from Spokane, WA to West Palm Beach, FL? I tried to
find something further away, but...
I too will keep my Firestar folded on a trailer in my garage and will
trailer it to the local airport to fly. Any hints or suggestions to keep
this process simple and easy. Vince, you mentioned some simple jigs.?
Thanks, Alan
>
> Mike,
>
> I have a Firestar II that I keep folded in my garage and trailer to the
> airport when I want to fly. A simple tilt trailer can be built for little
> money and a few simple jigs make one-man assembly of the Firestar II
simple.
> You can look for a convenient storage building off-airport.
>
> If you really want to fly and have some patients with mechanical things,
the
> wing folding feature is nice on the Firestar II. I'll bet it could be
made
> to work equally well on the Mark III with a little effort.
>
> Vince Nicely
> Firestar II (280 hours all from my garage in town)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 01/01/01 |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Ron,
Your "Molly Hogan" sounds like a simpler version the old "tuck and
splice" used in aircraft in the 20's and 30's. However, tuck and splice
does not develop the strength of a properly swaged joint, and is a lot of
work.
By the way, I always thought JAR engine certification wasn't as stringent
as FAA (doesn't require dual ignition, etc)? Has this changed? Don't
know, just wondering.
Peace,
Larry the Micro Mong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: extreme stabilizer movement |
I hear ya, Kenny ! ! ! They're welcome to it. I paid my dues on SnowCats
in Idaho; I was a lot younger, and I DON'T miss it, tho' it was fun at
the time. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: extreme stabilizer movement
>
> Ya, we're missing those 40 below wind chills that freeze exposed skin in
> less than a minute! You betcha! I miss them like a I miss a case of Hong
> Kong flu.
> Southern AZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 4:50 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: extreme stabilizer movement
>
>
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > I too have experienced the stabilizer moving quite a bit in flight. The
> > reason for this is like others have stated: loose tailbracing. After 12
> > years of flying it this way, I decided to make new flying wires that
were
> > tighter. This also meant using a rachet and socket to tighten it because
> > I could not finger tighten the wing nut. The thimbles will start wearing
> > underneath the tang and the only way to see this is to lift the thimble
> > off the tang and inspect it. In extreme cases, it could wear through the
> > thimble and into cable.
> >
> > I flew for the first time this year off skis yesterday. You southern
> > boys (I say this every year) don't know what you are missing.
> >
> > Ralph Burlingame
> > Original FireStar, 14 years old and aging gracefully (so is its pilot)
> >
> >
> > writes:
> > > Dennis,
> > > I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has
> > > always bugged
> > > me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Don't be too quick to get rid of that rivet gun. Take apart the tip and
clean it or maybe even shooting WD40 down the tip may do it. The air
riveter is nice but is not necessary.
> Of course you'll need a good rivet
>gun. I bought a hand one and its on its last legs (won't grab the rivet
>stem) so I may have to buy another one to finish up. If you can afford it
>get a pneumatic riveter.($65-100)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
If you have to junk your rivet puller. get a Sears Craftsman--they'll
replace them. I used one to pull several hundred Cherry Max, and they'd
last about a coupla hundred, then get replaced--FREE.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: extreme stabilizer movement |
>I decided to make new flying wires that were
>tighter. This also meant using a rachet and socket to tighten it because
>I could not finger tighten the wing nut.
That wing nut has bothered me for years. On my MkX project my lower
wires will be connected to the bottom of the tail with clevises and the
wing nut and cable tangs will remain on the bottom post.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
How about this for a cause and effect:
The MKIII fuselage has a lot of burble and rotor right behind it's widest part
( I know because I tufted it and filmed it and replayed it a frame at a time)
with a lot of burbles and swirls. What is the chance that some of those
rotors are interacting with your propblast, and buffeting the leading edge of
the vertical stab, setting up a harmonic vibration?
I mention this because two friends have Maxair 503 Drifters, and if you put
any windshield of any size at all on the Drifter, then the horizontal stab
gets a buffet about 18" out from the vertical stab, and the vertical stab gets
a buffet about 12" above the junction with the horizontal stab. The buffet
comes and goes with changes in throttle and airspeed. It is apparently
a buffet caused by airflow around the windshield, then the pilot, then the
passenger seat and fuel tank cluster, then the lower half of the prop
picks it up and accelerates it into the tail. Take away the windshield
and it quits. That's why Drifters have those useless little stock windshields.
Now that you have moved your leading edge off to one side, you have
changed the interaction of the windflow with the vertical fin leading
edge from symmetric to asymmetric, and broken up the harmonic.
Anyway, that's my theory. (Where is Topher when we need him?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a MKIII with a 912 and warp prop and also had problems with a rapid
>vibration of the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer. It was something
>I could feel in my seat and it would happen at 5000+ rpm's. Throttle back,
>it would go away. Mine was a very rapid vibration, how many cycles per
>second it don't know, not fast enough to hear, but fast enough that it was
>difficult to see. My wire braces were tight to the point of bending the
>tangs. I assumed it was some sort of harmonic from the prop wash. I never
>saw the horizontal stabilizer vibrate. I though of adding a cable brace to
>the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer or adding something the stiffen
>the leading edge. I finally decided to add tension to the leading edge by
>moving the front attachment of the leading edge to the left. I thought it
>might also help the rudder trim. This seems to have all but eliminated the
>vibration, but did very little to help the trim. I still have a big trim
>tab on my rudder. I don't know if yours it the same. Just an idea for your
>consideration.
>
>Terry
>
>MK III 26520 214 hrs.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:56 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say you
>need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
>would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you have
>one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
>cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
>PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
>totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
>and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't
>move
>>much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle.
>Calms
>>down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a
>prop
>>problem.
>>Bob
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
>>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>>
>>
>>
>>What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
>>Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
>>That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
>>and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
>>Richard Pike
>>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>>
>>>
>>>Dennis,
>>>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
>>bugged
>>>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>>>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I
>am
>>>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I
>an
>>>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
>>balance
>>>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>>>comments?
>>>Bob
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
on my mark III i put the vertical stabilizer on straight as
per plans and instructions. with the 912 i have to apply
right rudder after i get the tail wheel in the air in order
to hold it straight down the runway.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Does anyone have a couple of extra wing ribs for a Mk III ?? ( How on
earth could you have extras ?? But I gotta ask ) Sweet Sue, I love you
dearly, but $65.00 each is a little rough. Seems like I bought the
whole pre-built rib package for $200.00 or thereabouts, when I got my
kit. Now I need just 2 more ribs, and I'm too lazy at this point to
want to fuss with building my own. Lazy Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
I find the Maxair story interesting and you may be right. Another thing I
thought of trying was to change angle of the prop by changing the washer
combination between the engine and frame. If I recall correctly, I have
several washers under the engine in the front to raise the front of the
engine as per Bill and the old factory fat Albert MK III. Never did try
that. Right now it ain't broke so I won't fix it. Just another idea for the
fellow that is having problems.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 12:17 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
How about this for a cause and effect:
The MKIII fuselage has a lot of burble and rotor right behind it's widest
part
( I know because I tufted it and filmed it and replayed it a frame at a
time)
with a lot of burbles and swirls. What is the chance that some of those
rotors are interacting with your propblast, and buffeting the leading edge
of
the vertical stab, setting up a harmonic vibration?
I mention this because two friends have Maxair 503 Drifters, and if you put
any windshield of any size at all on the Drifter, then the horizontal stab
gets a buffet about 18" out from the vertical stab, and the vertical stab
gets
a buffet about 12" above the junction with the horizontal stab. The buffet
comes and goes with changes in throttle and airspeed. It is apparently
a buffet caused by airflow around the windshield, then the pilot, then the
passenger seat and fuel tank cluster, then the lower half of the prop
picks it up and accelerates it into the tail. Take away the windshield
and it quits. That's why Drifters have those useless little stock
windshields.
Now that you have moved your leading edge off to one side, you have
changed the interaction of the windflow with the vertical fin leading
edge from symmetric to asymmetric, and broken up the harmonic.
Anyway, that's my theory. (Where is Topher when we need him?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a MKIII with a 912 and warp prop and also had problems with a rapid
>vibration of the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer. It was something
>I could feel in my seat and it would happen at 5000+ rpm's. Throttle back,
>it would go away. Mine was a very rapid vibration, how many cycles per
>second it don't know, not fast enough to hear, but fast enough that it was
>difficult to see. My wire braces were tight to the point of bending the
>tangs. I assumed it was some sort of harmonic from the prop wash. I never
>saw the horizontal stabilizer vibrate. I though of adding a cable brace to
>the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer or adding something the stiffen
>the leading edge. I finally decided to add tension to the leading edge by
>moving the front attachment of the leading edge to the left. I thought it
>might also help the rudder trim. This seems to have all but eliminated the
>vibration, but did very little to help the trim. I still have a big trim
>tab on my rudder. I don't know if yours it the same. Just an idea for your
>consideration.
>
>Terry
>
>MK III 26520 214 hrs.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:56 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
>If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say you
>need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
>would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you have
>one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
>cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
>PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
>totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
>and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't
>move
>>much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle.
>Calms
>>down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a
>prop
>>problem.
>>Bob
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
>>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>>
>>
>>
>>What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
>>Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
>>That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
>>and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
>>Richard Pike
>>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>>
>>>
>>>Dennis,
>>>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
>>bugged
>>>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>>>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I
>am
>>>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I
>an
>>>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
>>balance
>>>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas
or
>>>comments?
>>>Bob
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
| Subject: | extreme stabilizer movement |
Hey Ralph B., do you have plans for your ski's that you could post, I'm
thinking of building a set also.
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com [mailto:ul15rhb(at)juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: extreme stabilizer movement
Bob,
I too have experienced the stabilizer moving quite a bit in flight. The
reason for this is like others have stated: loose tailbracing. After 12
years of flying it this way, I decided to make new flying wires that were
tighter. This also meant using a rachet and socket to tighten it because
I could not finger tighten the wing nut. The thimbles will start wearing
underneath the tang and the only way to see this is to lift the thimble
off the tang and inspect it. In extreme cases, it could wear through the
thimble and into cable.
I flew for the first time this year off skis yesterday. You southern
boys (I say this every year) don't know what you are missing.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 14 years old and aging gracefully (so is its pilot)
writes:
> Dennis,
> I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has
> always bugged
> me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?
CAREFULLY
Other than that just do as the Kolb book states. I have bent 6 pair of
wingtip bows without a kink or problem. Just work it around the tire slowly
and you should have no problem. It probably takes me about 10 minutes to do
the wing tip bows start to finish. Start with a 12 ft. hunk of 3/4, mark
the half way point and then 12" either side of that as the starting point
and then start bending, perhaps go a few degrees past 90 and then
straighten back using a door frame as a large square. Bend both before
cutting apart but cut them apart before you fine tune the 90 degree angle.
. As always if in doubt do as the book says instead of trying to find your
own simpler way. I bent the smaller tubes with my fingers to get the right
bend without kinking. The hands can give you a lot of info when it feels a
kink starting if you pay attention to them. Squashing the ends of smaller
tubes can be done with a hammer and anvil (a chunk of hard wood could serve
as an anvil) or what I did was modify some vice grips to give me a smooth
squeeze.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I'll check my goodie box. I may be able to come up with a couple you can
have for shipping costs. They may need a new piece of aluminum spliced in
somewhere. Shipping may come to more than the material cost to make new
ones. I bet new ones could be made in an evening if you get motivated.
The $200 for pre made ribs did not include the materials only labour to
put them together.. They want $16 for the big wing gusset and $3.50 each
for the front and rear gusset. Old Kolb sold these big main gussets for
only $8.
Is there a story behind why you need a couple new wing ribs?
>Does anyone have a couple of extra wing ribs for a Mk III ?? ( How on
>earth could you have extras ?? But I gotta ask ) Sweet Sue, I love you
>dearly, but $65.00 each is a little rough. Seems like I bought the
>whole pre-built rib package for $200.00 or thereabouts, when I got my
>kit. Now I need just 2 more ribs, and I'm too lazy at this point to
>want to fuss with building my own. Lazy Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
" What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?"
I purchased a cheep tubing bender that is designed to bend three sizes of small
tubing, it even has degree markings for accurate bends. I cost less than $10
at those cheep tool places. It works very well for the occasional bending of
the small tubes on the Kolb kits.
For the larger tubes use a tire as described in the Kolb instructions.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII
Grand Ledge, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Section Vibration, Flutter, and/or Shuffle |
Morning Gang:
Have flown with a 5/8" aluminum bushing on the front engine
mounts since 1992. My theory was to have the line of thrust
parallel with the bottom of the wing. However, I realize
when under power, the rear of the engine will rise some and
counteract my input. But it will not be nearly as far out
of being parallel as it would if I left the engine flat on
the mounts. Does it make a difference, I can't really tell
with what I have to work with.
I will pay closer attention to thrust line when I get Miss
P'fer flying again. I have removed the 2" prop extension
and replaced it with a 6" prop extension. In order to
accomplish this and still have adequate prop clearance at
the tailboom, I removed the 5/8" spacers. I will experiment
in this configuration first, then if I decide I have
sufficient clearance to replace the 5/8" spacers, I will,
hoping to see some increase in performance. I am also
looking for some prop noise reduction and possibly some
increased cruise speed with the new 6" extension. Who
knows, it may degrade performance, but I hope not. I could
use the noise reduction, the 72 inch Warp makes more noise
than the 70", possibly because the tips are closer to the
trailing edge of the wing. The 6" extension will move the
prop tips 4" further south and probably reduce noise.
I experimented for the past several years with leading edge
of vert stab offset as much as 1 3/8". Came to the
conclusion it did not make that much difference, compared to
a good rudder trim tab. The leading edge is now returned to
center and I have a rudder trim tab to works perfectly, for
the first time. Finally have neutral yaw trim at cruise.
Sure is nice to keep the ball centered without pressure on
the pedals. Does not take near as much pressure on takeoff
to keep the aircraft straight. I do need to get stiffer
rudder pedal springs though. The stock springs are not
strong enough to keep the rudder from ocillating at cruise
unless I keep some extra pressure on them with my feet. I
need to make a note to find some and replace before I fly
again. Stronger springs should not make any difference in
the amount of pedal pressure required to operate the rudder,
but will assist in preventing rudder flutter from starting.
Take care,
john h
Terry wrote:
>
>
> I find the Maxair story interesting and you may be right. Another thing I
> thought of trying was to change angle of the prop by changing the washer
> combination between the engine and frame. If I recall correctly, I have
> several washers under the engine in the front to raise the front of the
> engine as per Bill and the old factory fat Albert MK III. Never did try
> that. Right now it ain't broke so I won't fix it. Just another idea for the
> fellow that is having problems.
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 12:17 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
> How about this for a cause and effect:
> The MKIII fuselage has a lot of burble and rotor right behind it's widest
> part
> ( I know because I tufted it and filmed it and replayed it a frame at a
> time)
> with a lot of burbles and swirls. What is the chance that some of those
> rotors are interacting with your propblast, and buffeting the leading edge
> of
> the vertical stab, setting up a harmonic vibration?
> I mention this because two friends have Maxair 503 Drifters, and if you put
> any windshield of any size at all on the Drifter, then the horizontal stab
> gets a buffet about 18" out from the vertical stab, and the vertical stab
> gets
> a buffet about 12" above the junction with the horizontal stab. The buffet
> comes and goes with changes in throttle and airspeed. It is apparently
> a buffet caused by airflow around the windshield, then the pilot, then the
> passenger seat and fuel tank cluster, then the lower half of the prop
> picks it up and accelerates it into the tail. Take away the windshield
> and it quits. That's why Drifters have those useless little stock
> windshields.
>
> Now that you have moved your leading edge off to one side, you have
> changed the interaction of the windflow with the vertical fin leading
> edge from symmetric to asymmetric, and broken up the harmonic.
>
> Anyway, that's my theory. (Where is Topher when we need him?)
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> >
> >I have a MKIII with a 912 and warp prop and also had problems with a rapid
> >vibration of the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer. It was something
> >I could feel in my seat and it would happen at 5000+ rpm's. Throttle back,
> >it would go away. Mine was a very rapid vibration, how many cycles per
> >second it don't know, not fast enough to hear, but fast enough that it was
> >difficult to see. My wire braces were tight to the point of bending the
> >tangs. I assumed it was some sort of harmonic from the prop wash. I never
> >saw the horizontal stabilizer vibrate. I though of adding a cable brace to
> >the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer or adding something the stiffen
> >the leading edge. I finally decided to add tension to the leading edge by
> >moving the front attachment of the leading edge to the left. I thought it
> >might also help the rudder trim. This seems to have all but eliminated the
> >vibration, but did very little to help the trim. I still have a big trim
> >tab on my rudder. I don't know if yours it the same. Just an idea for your
> >consideration.
> >
> >Terry
> >
> >MK III 26520 214 hrs.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:56 PM
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
> >
> >
> >
> >If it is not rudder and elevator movement, then I go with Hauck and say you
> >need to tighten up your brace cables. If it is a prop problem, I think you
> >would get tremendous vibration out of the engine/prop assembly. If you have
> >one prop blade with much more or less pitch than the other, that could
> >cause weirdness and pulsing, but that is unusual.
> >PS. All tail assemblies move around a little in prop blast. None are
> >totally stationary. Extreme case: watch a Lockheed Jetstar land some time
> >and go to reverse thrust: the tail looks like it is going to shake off!
> >Richard Pike
> >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> >>
> >>In all honesty, flying alongside probably wouldn't see it. Things don't
> >move
> >>much distance wise but the horizontal and vertical stabilizers wiggle.
> >Calms
> >>down considerably when throttle is reduced. That is why I think it is a
> >prop
> >>problem.
> >>Bob
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
> >>Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 7:30 AM
> >>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>What exactly is it that vibrates? The rudder, or the elevators, or both?
> >>Have you had anyone fly alongside and watch it and describe it?
> >>That is very helpful. Vince flying alongside me helped me figure out
> >>and resolve my rudder flutter. Give us more info!
> >>Richard Pike
> >>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Dennis,
> >>>I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always
> >>bugged
> >>>me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
> >>>fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I
> >am
> >>>afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I
> >an
> >>>suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to
> >>balance
> >>>it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas
> or
> >>>comments?
> >>>Bob
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Section Vibration, Flutter, and/or Shuffle |
Kolbers:
I want to appologize for the mistake I made on my last
message. Normally I try to cut all of the previous post
out, except for a line or two to let folks know what I am
writing and responding to. That last msg I cut the top half
and failed to cut about nine yards of clutter from the
bottom half. I understand that all the excess we leave on
our responses goes directly to the archives, taking up
considerable space unnecessarily.
I am not the List Cop, but I urge everyone to do their best
to cut down on rerereretransmitted stuff. Not only does it
fill up the archives, but is a pain in the butt to try and
wade thru when reading the mail.
We also need to take a look at the subject line when we hit
the reply button. Right now I am writing something that has
absolutely nothing to do with Tail Section Vibration, etc.
Now, don't jump on me cause I am trying to help. :-)
Take care,
john h
BTW: If you are new to computers, and not necessarily lazy,
get someone to show you how to highlight and cut previous
message material.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
Hey Lar
Your note sent me scurrying for my build log where I kept all of my
receipts and notes when I repaired my MkIII. I needed 5 std ribs in 1997 and
did some raw material pricing to see what it would cost me to build the ribs.
Using Dillsburg prices , I concluded that it would come to 17 dollars each.
This did not include trying to roll the lip on the sheet of alum where the rib
slips over the spar. So--I called Dennis to get their price---$30 bucks each.
I knew that they weren't making any money on ribs!! Last year I stopped by
the New Kolb and noticed that they had been building ribs and mentioned the
price that I had bought them for in 97. The fellow that I talked to told me
that they were astounded at what their time and material study told them that
they needed to charge for them. I paid $150 for a 6" spar tube back then.
Hope you don't need a spar!!:-) I 'll bet that the shipping would cost more
than that today. Herb in Ky
larrybiglar wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a couple of extra wing ribs for a Mk III ?? ( How on
> earth could you have extras ?? But I gotta ask ) Sweet Sue, I love you
> dearly, but $65.00 each is a little rough. Seems like I bought the
> whole pre-built rib package for $200.00 or thereabouts, when I got my
> kit. Now I need just 2 more ribs, and I'm too lazy at this point to
> want to fuss with building my own. Lazy Lar.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | jigs for folding wings |
Alan,
I just went through this with my Mark III that I bought in North Carolina
and transported it to northern Illinois. I made several mistakes that were
costly because the person that helped me load it into a rental truck was
not the original owner and did not know the proper way to secure it for
transport. Thus, when I got to my destination the tail wheel assembly had
broken off, and the wings had come off the support tube, and the support
tube ripped holes in my stits fabric on the wings. This damage cost me
about $500-750 in damages and was just part of the repair done for me at
Lite Speed Aviation, the company that builds airplanes and does the quick
build for Kolb.
The proper way is to have the tail boom supported in a cradle so the tail
wheel is off the floor. Then the wings should be removed and stored on
sides of the enclosed truck. The wings need to be properly cushioned and
supported to prevent movement. The plane itself has to be done this was as
well.
The way I learned this was when I went down to Kentucky to pick up my Mark
III at Lite Speed Aviation, they helped me pack it properly for the long
trip back to northern Illinois.
Good luck.
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III For Sale???? |
Vince
When I read your email, I went out and measure the flat bed trailer I have
my Mark III sitting on and it measures 20'6", trailer tong to tail. The
Mark III sits with the front wheels at the "stop bar" and the nose of my
bird extends to within a couple inches of the trailer tongue. I then went
to the blueprint of the house I designed and having built on Marco Island,
and I had designed the inside length of the garage to be 24'!!!!!
Hurray!!!!! This will allow me to keep my bird in my garage on the flat
bed. The challenge will be trailering it from the frozen tundra of
Illinois, all the way to the southwest corner of Florida without inflicting
damage. The flaps and ailerons are difficult to secure to keep them from
bouncing when trailering.
But thanks very much for the idea. It was depressing me to think that I
would have to sell my plane before I even got a chance to enjoy it.
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Alternative Fuel Sources |
I've been kicking around the idea of using flatulence from Holstein
dairy cows to provide the fuel for my Rotax 503. Has anyone else looked
into this? I'm working on adapting the carburetion and holding tank
w/delivery systems similiar to what they use with propane-powered
vehicles. My brother runs a large dairy farm so supply will not be a
problem. I want to provide better filtering of the gas as it enters the
carburetion system and that needs some work. Two big questions remain
(1) how will I provide the lubrication and cooling for the engine? (2)
how do I collect the gas from the Holsteins? How clean do you think
this fuel will burn? Your suggestions on this are appreciated. My son
is planning on using this for his 8th grade science project. He wants
to take his teacher up for the first test flight.
Laugh, a little. They say its good for us!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuel Sources |
This is just an OF talking, butt you gotta put some kinda severe filter
on that fuel system, or you'll be a-callin' fer Roto-Rooter.
Lumping it,
ol' bn
pleeze don't archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuel Sources |
Kenny,
I just got wind of yer CF project! Since I used to do a lotta work right
near that end of cows, maybe you ought to wait 'til Spring when ol'
Bossy goes onto the green stuff.
Thar she blows,
b aka old icy fingers n
don't archive this, either
Pee ess Is it legal to take a cow up in a VERY FAT UL?
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 01/02/01 |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 1/3/01 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>
>
> Dennis,
> I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always bugged
> me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
> fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
> afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
> suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to balance
> it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
> comments?
> Bob
Hi Bob
About five years ago I installed a mono float on my MK111.There was a
bracket on the belly of the plane that stayed on when I removed the float. I
had a 582 on,(no trouble) later I installed the 912. With the 912 on I was
getting a lot of unwanted movement or it was oscillating. I tried just about
everything, then I removed that bracket on the belly of the plane. That was
it! Never had any more trouble.
Scott Trask
Iron Mountain MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jigs for folding wings |
Mike, your trailering distance was alot longer than mine but what I did
and recommend you do is purchase some "shrink wrap" it comes in different
widths, I choose the 20" width---it was about 18.00 for 1000' I started at the
tail and worked my way to the cage, back to the tail and then again to the cage,
overlapping 50%, keep in mind this is why I started at the rear and ended at the
nose so it had shingle effect so wind could not catch an edge----- my fs1 was
tight as a drum and slipped through the wind and kept clean at the same time in
case it rained.
Good luck!!!
Gary r. voigt
MIKE HOUSEWERT wrote:
>
> Alan,
> I just went through this with my Mark III that I bought in North Carolina
> and transported it to northern Illinois. I made several mistakes that were
> costly because the person that helped me load it into a rental truck was
> not the original owner and did not know the proper way to secure it for
> transport. Thus, when I got to my destination the tail wheel assembly had
> broken off, and the wings had come off the support tube, and the support
> tube ripped holes in my stits fabric on the wings. This damage cost me
> about $500-750 in damages and was just part of the repair done for me at
> Lite Speed Aviation, the company that builds airplanes and does the quick
> build for Kolb.
>
> The proper way is to have the tail boom supported in a cradle so the tail
> wheel is off the floor. Then the wings should be removed and stored on
> sides of the enclosed truck. The wings need to be properly cushioned and
> supported to prevent movement. The plane itself has to be done this was as
> well.
>
> The way I learned this was when I went down to Kentucky to pick up my Mark
> III at Lite Speed Aviation, they helped me pack it properly for the long
> trip back to northern Illinois.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Mike H.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Yah, that sounds about right. I bought mine in late '96, and that's about
what I remember, but it sure doesn't help with the 'sticker shock' now.
What I'm doing is making the gap seal between the wings permanent, and also
providing a protected, and hopefully, thief proof, place for the
electronics. Re-inforcing became a problem, and it hit me that making a
short section of "wing" would make a rugged unit that would be relatively
simple to mount, and modify, as necessary, and would line up perfectly with
the rest of the wings. Inventive Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Gearheart" <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wing Ribs
>
> Hey Lar
> Your note sent me scurrying for my build log where I kept all of my
> receipts and notes when I repaired my MkIII. I needed 5 std ribs in 1997
and
> did some raw material pricing to see what it would cost me to build the
ribs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Fordahl" <cafordahl(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jigs for folding wings |
Alan,
I bought a Twinstar in Kansas and trailered it to Minneapolis on a tandem
axle trailer which road a lot better than a light T trailer. BUT my big
mistake was I folded the wings in the normal fashion and attached them to
the boom tube. Then I supported the boom tube in a padded cradle that I
positioned in front of the H-section in the tail where the wing support goes
through. This gave a fair amount of mechanical advantage to the weight of
the wings supported by the tail. After 11 hours of driving, or should I say
trailer bouncing, when I arrived home the boom tube had bent and almost
broke off in-between the cradle and the tail feathers. I have my airplane
completely apart in my garage replacing the boom tube instead of flying.
The cling wrap suggestion by Gary Voight is an excellent idea!
Craig Fordahl
Loretto, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Lay <rv6builder(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: 02 January, 2001 7:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: jigs for folding wings
Hi all,
I am new to the list, lurking for the last several weeks. I am purchasing a
Firestar II that is already built. It is in silver right now, so I have to
do the final paint job. The current owner is having it inspected for its
airworthiness certificate. Then comes my first problem. What is the best way
to get this airplane from Spokane, WA to West Palm Beach, FL? I tried to
find something further away, but...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
All the talk lately about disasters with trailering Kolbs reminded me of
how the guy that bought my Hummer several years ago trailered it home. The
Hummer (for those that are not familiar with the design) is vaguely similar
to a Firestar, except it has a V-tail and the proportions are different. He
had a flat bed trailer about 24' long to haul it on. He went and bought a
pile of 2x4's and wafer board and piled it in my backyard and built a very
clever design onto his trailer. In essence, he took the 2x4's and made a
bunch of big U-shaped braces that ran the width of the trailer, with the
uprights of the U's parallel with the edge of the trailer sides. Then he
took the wafer board and attached it to the outside of the upright part of
the U's with those funky drywall screws. On the inside uprights of the U's,
he laid a big thickness of carpet over each 2x4, and a bigger wad at the
bottom for padding. The wings were then laid up against the padding,
leading edge down, one on each side, and strapped tight to the inside wall.
(The padded 2x4"s) The fuselage, on it's gear, fit in between. Once the
airplane and all it's stuff was in place, he took a couple other 2x4's and
braced across the top to keep the sides from flopping in and out, and also
tied the airplane to the sides. He had another piece of wafer board with a
couple 2x4's bracing it across the front to keep the wind out. Since the
Firestar/MKIII's have wider gear than the Hummer, you would have to raise
the sides up higher, make the wings ride higher to make everything fit, but
the principle should still work. He probably spent about $75 bucks, but it
traveled without any problem. It was a small problem getting the Hummer to
roll over all the 2x4's on edge that ran across the trailer, ( the bottom
of the U's) but with two of us, it was easy enough to load for a one time
shot. Obviously the top was open, but that didn't seem to hurt. From the
sound of some of the problems, $100 worth of wood and an afternoons work
with a Skilsaw and a screw shooter might be worth the trouble.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The wings were then laid up against the padding,
> leading edge down, one on each side, and strapped tight to the inside wall.
> Richard Pike
Richard and Gang:
All this trailer stuff sounds familiar. Seems last July I
had need for a trailer to rescue my MK III from Muncho Lake,
BC. I probably hold a world record on number of miles
traveled preparing for and transporting an aircraft home.
Hitch hiked 150 miles, flew commercial aprx 4,500 miles,
drove from Wetumpka, Al, to Muncho Lake, 3,742 miles, loaded
up the MK III and drove to Oshkosh, WI, and finally south to
Wetumpka, AL, another aprx 4,000 miles.
I borrowed a 24' inclosed trailer with plywood floor and
square steel frame. My airplane is aprx 23' 5 or 6". I had
a lot of time to plan how I would configure the trailer once
I got back to Muncho Lake. Before I left home I loaded deck
screws, electric drill/driver, 4 or 5 2X4 studs, a pile of
2X4 drops (12" or there abouts). Lots of old blankets and
cushioning material. GI tie down straps, 3/8 nylon rope, my
old tool box.
Got to Muncho Lake Monday afternoon. Configured 2X4 frame
on each side of trailer with carpet cushion and tie down
strap for the wings. Tuesday, loaded wings and fuselage.
Blocked main wheels and tailwheel with 2X4s on three sides.
Built a 2X4 frame about midpoint on the tailboom first
wrapping the tailboom with a 6'X12" piece of carpet. Placed
a short 2X4 on each side of the carpet and secured the
bottom of each with deck screws into a 2X4 block secured to
the deck with screws. ONe piece on each side at an angle
for braces on the uprights. Two pieces of 2X4 perpendicular
under the tailboom attached on each side of the vertical
pieces which are snugged up against the tailboom. Finally,
a 2X4 across the top of the verticals (which are about and
inch shorter than the top of the tailboom. When the 2X4 cap
is screwed down snug on the top, the tailboom is secure.
When fitting this stand, I took some of the weight off the
tailwheel, but not all of it. I had some ropes secured to
main gear and tail boom and tail wheel strut to act as
safeties. The test to see if this system was going to work
was when we started back south on the Alaska Highway. It
worked. Needed no adjustment all the way home.
On the 500 mile round trip to Woodville, FL, and back, last
week, I configured the trailer the same way minus any safety
ropes. No sweat. Made the trip fine.
BTW: Can anyone beat that mileage for aircraft recovery?
:-) Would have rather been flying.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil leiter <ggleiter(at)minn.net> |
Kenny Broste wrote:
>
>
> Ben,
> I, too, am building a Firestar II. It is quite an undertaking. You will be
> cutting all the aluminum to length, bending where needed. (the bending is
> the hardest, getting the radius and everything right, without having the
> tubing kink.) If I were to do it over again and could afford it, I'd look
> seriously at the quick build kit they offer. I think the price runs for
> having most of the assembly done runs pretty close to $3500, though. There
> is quite a bit of satisfaction in doing the construction yourself. This has
> been my first shot at anything like this. Study the blueprints and manuals
> closely, use #6 sheet metal screws before you do the final riveting on any
> piece. It'll be a lot easy to disaasemble it and you'll save on drill bits.
> Lord
Suggest you use clecos instead of sheet metal screws. Easier, faster,
and will work better. You can get 100 1/8" clecos for about $32 at
Oshkosh or SnF, and a set of cleco pliers for about $7. Well worth it!
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
> Ken (gonna finish that last aileron, tonight)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil leiter <ggleiter(at)minn.net> |
Richard Neilsen wrote:
>
>
> " What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?"
>
> I purchased a cheep tubing bender that is designed to bend three sizes of small
tubing, it even has degree markings for accurate bends. I cost less than $10
at those cheep tool places. It works very well for the occasional bending of
the small tubes on the Kolb kits.
>
> For the larger tubes use a tire as described in the Kolb instructions.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Would an electrical conduit bender (cheap and easily available) work for
the larger sizes?
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jigs for folding wings |
Gary,
Great idea!!! Is this the shrink wrap that comes on a role that you see
skids of product wrapped in? Thanks for the good suggestion, and it keeps
the bird clean!
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
It would most likely work, but you won't need it. I have 1/2", and 3/4"
conduit benders, and have never even thought of them. The little 3 in 1
that was mentioned the other day got quite a bit of use, and I highly
recommend it. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "gil leiter" <ggleiter(at)minn.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HI
>
> Richard Neilsen wrote:
> >
> >
> > " What is the best way to bend aluminum tubing?"
> >
> > I purchased a cheep tubing bender that is designed to bend three sizes
of small tubing, it even has degree markings for accurate bends. I cost less
than $10 at those cheep tool places. It works very well for the occasional
bending of the small tubes on the Kolb kits.
> >
> > For the larger tubes use a tire as described in the Kolb instructions.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
>
>
> Would an electrical conduit bender (cheap and easily available) work for
> the larger sizes?
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
| Subject: | jigs for folding wings |
Has anyone tried running synthetic oil in their gearboxes?
-----Original Message-----
From: MIKE HOUSEWERT [mailto:mhousewert(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: jigs for folding wings
Gary,
Great idea!!! Is this the shrink wrap that comes on a role that you see
skids of product wrapped in? Thanks for the good suggestion, and it keeps
the bird clean!
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jigs for folding wings |
you are correct, I said shrink wrap but It does not really shrink it
stretches. you can buy it in several different mils but I recommend you get the
lighter mil product because it stretches better to fit like a cacoon over the
"bird" I too had a open trailer and thought what can I do to protect my project.
14 hrs. of banging my head against the wall-----bingo the Idea came up----I
can't beleive no one else thought of this Idea-----but then again when someone
else thinks of it first!!!!! you think why didn't I think of that Idea, It's so
simple. you can wrap the engine and prop separtely----this way it stays neater
or just take the prop off to avoid nicks, and if you don't mind taking the time
to monkey with the prop.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
excelsior, mn.
MIKE HOUSEWERT wrote:
>
> Gary,
> Great idea!!! Is this the shrink wrap that comes on a role that you see
> skids of product wrapped in? Thanks for the good suggestion, and it keeps
> the bird clean!
>
> Mike H.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 01/03/01 |
I just discovered a nifty tool for anyone building a Kolb. It is Center
Finder for Round Stock that fits in your drill press to let you set up the
exact center for drilling tubing or other round stock. It is available from
Micro-Mark for $6.95, part number 82281. Toll free number is 1-800-225-1066
or order on-line at www.micromark.com
Vic
Sundance, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Why buy the bender when the spare tire method works so well.
>Would an electrical conduit bender (cheap and easily available) work for
>the larger sizes?
>
>gil leiter
>MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 01/03/01 |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 1/4/01 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
>
>> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: swaging
>>
>>
>> Dennis,
>> I am Bob Kearbey. We built a MarkIII several years ago. It has always bugged
>> me that the tail feathers vibrate so dramatically when we fly. Matter of
>> fact, I have finally grounded it until I can solve the problem because I am
>> afraid that a cable might break on the tail feathers. Is this normal?? I an
>> suspecting that the prop may be the problem and I am going to try to balance
>> it some way as my first effort toward a solution. Do you have any ideas or
>> comments?
>> Bob
> Hi Bob
> About five years ago I installed a mono float on my MK111.There was a
> bracket on the belly of the plane that stayed on when I removed the float. I
> had a 582 on,(no trouble) later I installed the 912. With the 912 on I was
> getting a lot of unwanted movement or it was oscillating. I tried just about
> everything, then I removed that bracket on the belly of the plane. That was
> it! Never had any more trouble.
> Scott Trask
> Iron Mountain MI
>
>
>
Hi again Bob
The movement was in my tail of my plane not in my bowels. Boy, glad I don't
write for a living.
Air flow was my problem, anything on the belly of the plane disturbs air
flow over the tail, causing it to oscillate. Does that make more sense?
Scott T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
Scott Trask,
Reading your latest email you stated you had a monofloat on your Mark III.
Could you relate how that worked out for you? As I am moving to Florida
and will be on the coast with thousands of miles of "water runways" I was
thinking that I might want to add float (s) to my Mark III. Also, if you
have any pictures. Would you go with a monofloat again or with the dual
floats?
Also, was the 582 sufficient with the monofloat?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks you in advance.
Mike H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Great Advertising |
Kolbers,
I just received my "Experimenter" magazine today and on the front cover and
inside article it is about The New Kolb, the Kolbra. I saw this plane at
the EAA this last summer, and again at Lite Speed Aviation in November.
The people in the plane is Norm from Kolb (pilot) and Brian from Lite Speed
aviation in the rear seat. What a great article and free publicity.
Then I opened my sport aviation magazine, look at page 38, The Mark III
Extra, and again Norm is flying and I met but forgot the other fella's
name, but he too is a Kolb employee and/or owner, I think.
--- MIKE HOUSEWERT
--- mhousewert(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> Has anyone tried running synthetic oil in their gearboxes?
Yes, I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for a couple of years.
The gearbox runs cooler and will most likely make it last longer. I also
use synthetic 2-cycle oil (Klotz KL-216).
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 01/03/01 |
Hi Vic: Is that a V-block ?? Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 11:36 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 01/03/01
>
> I just discovered a nifty tool for anyone building a Kolb. It is Center
> Finder for Round Stock that fits in your drill press to let you set up the
> exact center for drilling tubing or other round stock. It is available
from
> Micro-Mark for $6.95, part number 82281. Toll free number is
1-800-225-1066
> or order on-line at www.micromark.com
>
> Vic
> Sundance, WY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
John Hauck wrote>>>
Have flown with a 5/8" aluminum bushing on the front engine
mounts since 1992. My theory was to have the line of thrust
parallel with the bottom of the wing.
john my idea was to have the thrust line parallel with the
air flow at level flight. this way it would reduce the p
factor normally noticed when the descending blade gets a
bigger slice of air than the ascending blade, normally
noticed in climb. with the thrust line parallel with the
air flow both sides of the prop have equal pull.... or am i
missing something.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | synthetic oil in gearbox |
>From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: jigs for folding wings
> Has anyone tried running synthetic oil in their gearboxes?
Yup, running Amsoil synthetic gear oil in the box, and Amsoil 100:1 premix
2-stroke oil (@80:1 ratio) thru the engine.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi John.......This is my first post so hope I am doing
it right. When the engine
and starter arrived, the oil pump on the front had
been hit by something and was bent plus the starter
that was in a seperate box looked like it had been
drug down the 'runway'. Well I called Sue and She said
to call Parcel Post.
*************************************
Bill I'm a Kolb wannabe because I think Kolb is one of the best ultralights out
there. But business is business. It wouldn't take me 2 days to become a big
part of Kolbs and the Parcel Post life until I was satisfied with new
unblemished components just like I had paid for or a great discount if I could
repair and paint what I had. This is a legitimate insurance claim. Its just a
matter of determining who will be responsible for it, Kolb or Parcel Post. If it
were me I would be on Kolbs back in a big way to resolve this because they are
who took your money. This is what reputations are built on. Let's see if there
is a good one to work with hear.
2 cents from Texas
Monte from Georgetown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Artdog1512(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | syn gear oil .... |
>
> dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
>
> Has anyone tried running synthetic oil in their gearboxes?
>
> yeh, i use Amsoil synthetic gear oil in my "B" box. 85w90, no
> problems.................. tim FS 377
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Spent an hour and a half getting the hangar doors open so that I could get
the Firefly out for the first time since Dec 7. Ground air temperature was
just at freezing. As I taxied out to the runway, I had to avoid ridges of
snow and puddles of water in low areas, but I had to pass through some of
the water on the way.
I had a good flight out over and up the Mississippi River to check out the
ice flows etc. Upon returning to the airport and at touch down the plane
made a queer little jerk. Taxiing back to the hangar was uneventful.
After I put the plane back in the hangar, I noticed the right band brake
was destroyed. Evidently on the way out it got enough water on it so that
the band froze to the drum while the plane was in the air. Upon landing it
tore the band free and then pealed the band from the drum and mounting from
the reaction plate.
I was lucky that I did not over design the brakes, or I would have ground
looped at high speed. So stay out of water when the ground air temperature
is about freezing.
Grounded again
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 01/04/01 |
The center finder is not a v-block. It is a v-gauge mounted on a 3/8 shaft
so that the v-gauge swings back and fourth. You mount the gage in your
drill press using the 3/8 shaft and then adjust the fixture holding your
tubing until the v-gage aligns with the mark on the shaft. Clamp down you
tubing fixture and replace the gauge with you drill bit and drill away. It
is so simple I feel stupid for not thinking of it myself.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
The 912 uses a common synthetic oil supply for the engine and gearbox.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
>
> > Has anyone tried running synthetic oil in their gearboxes?
>
> Yes, I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for a couple of
> years.
> The gearbox runs cooler and will most likely make it last longer. I
> also
> use synthetic 2-cycle oil (Klotz KL-216).
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
Does any body have a verner 1400 motor on there kolb?
Wayne Boyter
Kolb Mark III
582 Rotax
Roseburg, Or.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Bill, Have your lawyer call the shipper for you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Last weekend, some friends and I flew out of Thermal airport, ( now
Desert Resorts Regional - that's what happens when Chambers of Commerce
get into the act ) in Thermal, CA. (TRM) There was a Kolb-like
airplane parked there, that looked to me like a modified, older ( real
older ) Mk III. Thing had a 1 piece windshield that was hinged at the
back, so it lifted completely up and over, and latched, somehow, at the
front. Also had a fully enclosed fuselage that came to a point at the
back, from the wings, clear down to the tail boom. Tail boom was the
old 5" style. That windshield opening business really caught my eye.
Looked great. An airport ramp employee told me that 2 brothers from
Georgia flew it out here, and planned, or had planned, to give flying
lessons in it. I took a couple of pics of it, and got those back
today, so if anyone knows anything about it, or is interested, I can
send them to you off List. Anyone seen, or know about this thing ??
How about it, Possum, you ol' Georgia Boy, you. Or are you guys all
frozen solid back there ?? Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 01/04/01 |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 1/5/01 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
> __
> From: "MIKE HOUSEWERT" <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Monofloat
>
>
> Scott Trask,
> Reading your latest email you stated you had a monofloat on your Mark III.
> Could you relate how that worked out for you? As I am moving to Florida
> and will be on the coast with thousands of miles of "water runways" I was
> thinking that I might want to add float (s) to my Mark III. Also, if you
> have any pictures. Would you go with a monofloat again or with the dual
> floats?
>
> Also, was the 582 sufficient with the monofloat?
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks you in advance.
>
> Mike H.
>
Hi Mike and list
I don't have a lot of experience with floats to compare it to. I had the
mono 2000 float on it. I bought it from Jim Lee (he is not with us any more)
It was used but was like new. I thought it was too big for my plane, but he
said it was the size I needed. The float was very buoyant and preformed very
well. I needed to add a rudder to the float for better handling in the
water, it was very difficult to turn on the water in the slightest wind. The
amphib. gear legs that I made were too heavy. I did have fun with them, but
I was building my house/hangar at the time. I put the float to one side,
then I installed a 912 on it. I sold the float. I figured if I kept it it
might get pretty costly because I'd have to end up buying a cottage on a
lake somewhere (ha! ha!).
I saw a float system on a MarkIII at Sun-n-Fun that looked like a smaller
float than the Mono 2000, perhaps it was a Mono 1000 full lotus float. The
guy did a good job of setting it up. I wanted to talk to him but did not
find him.
The mono system is very nice because it's more aerodynamic and has less air
resistance. But there's no way of getting out of the plane unless you get
your feet wet or you swim or taxi up out of the water (if you have amphib.
gear). In my area there are very few places you can do that. I would think
that the advantage of a dual float system is that you can actually stand out
on the float to fish. But I'm no expert. If I was going to do it again, I
might consider the dual floats. I hope someone else who has floats and more
experience using them can add to this. Good luck with your decision. Let
me know how it turns out. I'll see what I can do about sending you photos.
Scott Trask
Iron Mountain, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann(at)caa.is> |
Hi Ben.
I live in Iceland, and I have built two Firestar II. My advice to you is: If
you want it enough, you can do it, just do one thing at a time, do not look
at the hole plane as a major task, and before you know it, you will have a
full workshop of all kinds of airplane parts, ready to become a full size
Firestar II.
Do everything to keep you motivated while you are building, such as this
list, and other builders in you area. That's it! Money is also a good
thing to have. :-) Because you will need around $12.000 approx. in USA or
$20.000 if you are in Iceland.
Hope you will go for it.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Ben Ramler wrote:
>
> Hay all-
> My name is Ben Ramler emailing you from the frozen tundra of
> Minnesnowta! Ha! Ha!
> If may enter a question and I know I'm going to get tons of feedback so
> here goes:
> I have zero experience building. What advice would you have on
> building the Firestar 2. I'm 20yrs. old by the way.
>
> See you later & Happy New Year,
>
> Ben Ramler
> St.Joesph, MN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Plane |
>
>Last weekend, some friends and I flew out of Thermal airport, ( now
>Desert Resorts Regional - that's what happens when Chambers of Commerce
>get into the act ) in Thermal, CA. (TRM) There was a Kolb-like
>airplane parked there, that looked to me like a modified, older ( real
>older ) Mk III. Thing had a 1 piece windshield that was hinged at the
>back, so it lifted completely up and over, and latched, somehow, at the
>front. Also had a fully enclosed fuselage that came to a point at the
>back, from the wings, clear down to the tail boom. Tail boom was the
>old 5" style. Anyone seen, or know about this thing ??
>How about it, Possum, you ol' Georgia Boy, you. Or are you guys all
>frozen solid back there ?? Big Lar.
Let's take a look and see how "Kolb-like" it is. It's a long way from home
if it's from here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Plane |
December 15, 2000 - January 05, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-co